
G!ass„ pSS"! 



RESOURCES , 
THE PACIFIC SLOPE. 



STATISTICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE SUMMARY 



MINES AND MINERALS, CLIMATE, TOPOGRAPHY, AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, 

MANUFACTURES, AND MISCELLANEOUS PRODUCTIONS, OF THE STATES 

AND TERRITORIES WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



A SKETCH 

OF 

THE SETTLEMENT AND EXPLORATION OF 
LOWER CALIFORNIA. 



BY 

J. Eoss Ibkowne, 

AIDED Br A CORPS OF ASSI8TAKT0. 




NEW YORK: 
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, 

90, 92 & 94 GRAND STREET. 
1869. 



Enteked, according to Act of Congress, in tlie year 1868, by 

D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of 

New York. 






REPORT 



J. EOSS BEOW]S[E 



THE MINEKAL KESOUKCES OF THE STATES AND TEREITOEIES WEST OF 
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



Washington, D. 0., IlarcJi 5, 18G8. 
Sir : In tlie preliminary report wliich I liad tbe honor to transmit to yoxi from 
San Francisco in November, 1866, a general summary was given of the mineral 
resources of tlie States and Territories west of the Rocky mountains. It was 
not anticipated by the department that the infonnation required under letter of 
instructions dated August 2, 1866, could be obtained in full within the brief 
period intervening before the next meeting of Congress; but it was hoped that 
sutficient data might be collected to fm'nish a general idea of the rise and pro- 
gress of the mining interest on the Pacific slope. No official document in any 
department of the government contained accurate infomiation on this subject, 
and it was considered desnable that special attention should be given to the fol- 
lowing points : 

1. The origin of gold and silver mining on the Pacific coast and present condi- 
tion of that interest, as tending to show the progress of settlement and civilization. 

2. Geological formation of the great mineral belts and general characteristics 
of the placer diggings and quailz lodes. 

3. Different systems of mining, machinerjr used, processes of reducing the ores, 
percentage of Avaste, and net profits. 

4. Population engaged in mining, exclusively and in part, capital and labor 
employed, value of improvements, number of mills and steam engines in opera- 
tion, yield of the mines, average of dividends, and losses. 

5. Proportion of agricultural and mineral lands in eacli district, quantity of 
woodland, facilities for obtaining fuel, number and extent of streams, and water 
privileges. 

6. Salt beds, deposits of soda and borax, and all other valuable mineral deposits. 

7. Altitude, character of climate, mode and cost of living, cost of all kinds of 
material, cost of labor, &c. 

8. Population of the mining towns, number of banks and banking institutions 
in them, facilities for assajnng, melting, and refining bullion ; charges upon the 
same for transportation and insurance. 

9. Communication with the mines and principal touiis, postal and telegraphic 
lines ; stage routes ; cost of travel ; probable benefits likely to result from con- 
struction of the Pacific railroad and its proposed branches. 

10. Necessity for assay offices and public depositories; what financial facili- 
ties may tend to develop the country and enhance its products. 

11. Copies of local mining laws and customs regulating the holding and 
working of claims, 

12. Number of ledges opened, number claimed, character of the soil in the 
mining districts, and its adaptation to the support of a large population. 



4 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

_ The preliminary report, submitted in answer to tliese inquiries, embraced such 
information as could be obtained within the brief period allowed for its preparation. 
Although imperfect in many respects, it was received by the people of the Pacific 
coast as an indication of a growing interest on the part of government in the de- 
velopment of our mineral resources. It was a source of gratification to the miners 
to find that, after years of unprofitable toil, during which they had contributed 
largely to the national wealth, the peculiar character of their occupation was 
beginning to be understood, and its influence in promoting settlement and civiliza- 
tion to be better appreciated. 

{ The report whicli I now have the honor to submit is the result of many years 
of labor and exploration. It contains the aggregated experience of the ablest 
statisticians and experts on the Pacific coast. If there be any merit in the work, 
it belongs chiefly to my co-laborers, ^^■ho have devoted themselves with such 
unselfish zeal to the promotion of the objects designed to be accomplished by 
this commission. The fund appropriated by Congress was insufficient to admit 
of compensation adequate to such labor ; but assistance was cheerfully given, as 
a matter of public benefit, without regard to personal or pecuniary considerations. 
When it is taken into view tliat this inquiry extends over the Territories of Utah, 
Arizona, Montana, Idaho, and "Washington, and the States of Oregon, California, 
and Nevada, embracing an area of country stretching fi'om tho' Rocky mountains 
to the Pacific, and from JMexico to British Columbia; tliat in many parts of this 
vast mineral range travel is still difficult and expensive; that the business of 
mining is new to the American people, and the collection of statistics unsystem- 
atized in this department of industry, it will be conceded that as much has been 
accomplished as could reasonably be expected. 

An erroneous idea prevails that the collection of mining statistics involves 
original explorations and detailed personal examinations of every mine through- 
out the vast range of our mineral regions, with scientific and practical deduc- 
tions relative to the treatment of ores; and it is expected by some that the infor- 
mation obtained shall be entirely new, and furnish a complete index for the 
purchase, sale or working of every mine in the countrj-. Apart froni the fact 
that such an investigation would require the employment for many years of a 
large scientific force at great expense, it would be difficult even then to present 
statistics wliich had not alread}'^ been made public. The same sources of infor- 
mation are open to all. The mining press of the country, closely connected with 
that interest, directly identified with its progress, in daily and familiar contact 
with its details, makes it a special duty to keep up the current record of cost and 
production, success and failure. There may be misstatement or exaggeration, 
but not more so on the part of the press, which is held to a certain accounta- 
bility by public sentiment, than on that of individuals who maybe prejudiced or 
irresponsible. Statements publicly made and thoroughly criticised are as likely 
to be coiTCct as casual examinations made by persons visiting a special locality, 
unfamiliar with its growth and progress, and compelled after all to depend upon 
information derived from others. Nevertheless, it must be admitted that there 
are difficulties in the way of absolute accuracy. 

Every miner naturally desires that his mine should be carefully examined 
and reported upon in detail, especially if, as in the majority of cases, it be unpro- 
ductive. Without reflecting that a mere list of the unproductive mines would 
fill a volume, the miner is disposed to estimate the value of a report by its men- 
tion or omission of that in which he is most interested. However disposed a 
government agent may be to meet the wishes of the mining community in this 
respect, it is e(pialty important to bear in mind that this inquiry is not designed 
for speculative purposes or the promotion of special or individual interests. The 
public desire reliable statements, and herein lies the difficulty — a spirit of ex- 
affireration on the one hand, a demand for facts on the other. To afford satis- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS- 5 

faction to all is impossible. I Lave therefore relied upon my own sense of 
fairness, and endeavored to present tlie truth impartially. 

That errors may have been committed, and false statements given by interested 
parties, is probable, but precaution has been taken to guard against them. The 
selection of assistants was made with reference to their integrity and capacity. 
Instructions were given to them in detail, enjoining careful scrutiny and veriii- 
cation of every statement. The revision of their work, under these precautions, 
Las occupied more than four months. There is no subject upon which greater 
difference of opinion exists than that of mining statistics. It is an open tiekl in 
which there is room for discrepancy under any existing circumstances. No two 
persons rate the product of the precious metals alike. The superintendent of a 
mine often furnishes infonnation which when submitted to the board of directors 
is pronounced incoiTCCt. Representatives from the mining districts are apt to 
rate both population and products higher than persons who have made them 
special subjects of inquiry, but whose opi^ortunities for judging may not ))e so 
favorable. 

A fruitful source of eiTor is in supposing that the ordinary channels of trans- 
portation cannot be relied upon as a clue to the gross product of the mines. It 
is alleged that large quantities of the precious metals are carried away in the 
pockets of the miners. Even if this were so, it is not reasonable to suppose that 
the miners continue to burden themselves with their treasure after arriving at 
then* place of destination. It must find its way into the mint or branch mints 
for coinage or the custom-house manifests for exportation. It cannot be assayed 
without paying its internal revenue tax. The gross yield of all the mines can 
be determined with approximate accuracy. It is more difficult to arrive at a 
subdivision, when it comes to the product of each State and Territory. In 
California, for example, during the early daj^s of placer mining, before the trans- 
portation of bullion by organized companies had become a business entitled to 
confidence, a large proportion of the gold derived from the mines was carried 
out of the country by private hands. There was comparatively little danger of 
loss. The routes to San Francisco were short, public, and protected by general 
interest. From that point to New York the passengers usually combined for mutual 
protection, and the risk was inconsiderable. It was not until the idle and the prof- 
ligate began to obtain an ascendency, the business of transportation by express 
more firmly established, and the mines more difficult to Avork with profit, that 
the increase of risks and reduction of charges resulted in the general aban- 
donment of this system. It doubtless prevails to a limited extent now, but 
the transportation of bullion by private hands in California is exceptional. It 
probably does not exceed seven per cent, in the aggregate, and this applies only 
to the routes by which it reaches San Francisco. In reference to silver it is 
impossible that any considerable amount can escape notice in this way. The 
yield of Nevada can be determined with more accuracy than that of other States. 
Silver predominates in the mines ; and where gold is obtained it is not in an 
uncombined form. When we come to Montana, Idaho, Washington, and Oregon 
the greatest difficulty is experienced. 

Shipments of treasure from Montana and Idaho may become incoi"porated with 
others before reaching their destination. From Montana most of the bullion 
goes east. Two main routes are open to examination — one by the Missouri river, 
the other by Salt Lake City. Indian disturbances and the insecurity of the 
roads have during the past year almost entirely closed the latter ; so that the 
chief exit is by the former route. Shipments from Idaho are made chiefly by 
Avay of Portland and the inland stage route through Humboldt and across the 
Sierra Nevada. On both of these routes it is alleged that they are liable to 
l)ecome merged with the products of other States and Territories. It has been 
impossible to obtain an account of the shipments from each agency at the express 
office of Wells, Fargo & Co., at San Francisco. For reasons of private expe- 



6 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

diency tlicy refrain from giving tlie desired information. We have, however, 
the aggregate receipts at their office, and knowing very nearly what amount can 
fairly be credited to California, Nevada, and British Columbia, can draw reason- 
able conclusions as to the proportion derived from Idaho, Washington, and 
Oregon. From the best information available the following is a near approxi- 
mation to the total gold and silver product for the year ending January 1, 1867 : 

California $25,000,000 

Nevada 20, 000, 000 

Montana 12,000,000 

Idaho 6,500,000 

Washington 1,000,000 

Oregon 2,000,000 

Colorado 2,500,000 

New Mexico 500, 000 

Arizona 500,000 

70, 000, COO 
Add for bullion derived from unknown sources within our States and Territo- 
ries, unaccounted for by assessors and express companies, &c 5, 000, 000 

Total product of the United States 75,000,000 



The bullion product of Washington is estimated by the surveyor general at 
$1,500,000. That of Oregon is rated as high as $2,500,000. Intelligent resi- 
dents of Idaho and Montana represent that the figures given in the above esti- 
mate, so far as these Territories are concerned, are entire^v too low, and might 
be doubled without exceeding the truth. The product of Idaho alone for this 
year is said to be from $15,000,000 to $18,000,000. That of Montana is esti- 
mated by the surveyor general at $20,000,000. Similar exceptions are taken 
to the estimates of Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. As I have no grounds 
for accepting these statements beyond the assertion that most of the bullion is 
carried away in the pockets of the miners, I am inclined to rely upon the returns 
of the assessors, express companies, and official tables of export. Admitting 
that a fraction over seven per cent, may have escaped notice, although reason- 
aide allowance is made for this in the estimate of $70,000,000, and that a con- 
siderable sum may be derived from sources not enumerated, I feel confident the 
additional allowance of $5,000,000 is sufficient to cover the entii'c bullion pro- 
duct of the United States for the year 1867, thus making the aggregate from 
all sources $75,000,000, as stated in the report of the Secretary of the Treasury. 

I have endeavored to obtain retiu'ns of the annual product of each State and 
Territory since 1848 ; but, for the reasons already stated, and in the absence of 
reliable statistics, it has been impossible to make the necessary divisions with 
more than approximate accuracy. As nearly as I can judge from the imperfect 
returns available, the following, in round numbers, is not far from the total pro- 
duct : 

California $900,000,000 

Nevada 90,000,000 

Montana 65,000,000 

Idaho 45,000,000 

Washington 10,000,000 

Oregon 20,000,000 

Colorado 25,000,000 

New Mexico and Arizona 5,000,000 

In jewelry, plate, spoons, «S:c., and retained for circulation on Pacific coast.. 45, 000, 000 

1,205,000,000 
Add for amounts buried or concealed and amounts from unenumerated sources, 
and of which no account may have been taken 50, 000, 000 

1,255,000,000 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 7 

This statement requires explanation. Up to 1855 a considerable portion of 
the cold taken from California was not manifested. In 1849 the actual yield 
Vv-asVc'^'^^ $10,000,000; in 1850, 635,000,000; in 1851, $46,000,000; in 
1852, 650,000,000; in 1853, $60,000,000; and in 1854, 653,000,000. The 
amount unaccounted for hy manifest was not so great after the last date. In 
1861 Nevada and Idaho commenced adding their treasm'e to the shipments, so 
that after that date a deduction for the amounts produced from these sources 
would be necessary, if the maiiifest alone were taken as a criterion, in order to 
anivc at the product of California. 

An addition should be made for the amount retained for currency, estimated 
by some as high as 645,000,000, but probably not exceeding 635,000,000 or 
640,000,000 ; and for plate, jewehy, &c., of California gold, say 62,000,000, 
and Nevada silver, 63,000,000. 

Incorporated in these shipments arc the amounts received from Nevada, 
Idaho, Oregon, Arizona, Washington, and British Columbia ; but these cannot 
be deducted from the manifest of exports, according to the express retmns, since 
the proportions are not accurately known of the amounts, retained and shipped, 
derived from separate soiurces.^ 

The general condition of the mining interest on the Pacific slope is encoxn-ag- 
ing. There have been fewer individual losses than during past years, and the 
yield of the mines has been comparatively steady and reliable. 

Fluctuations in mining stock have not been so great as usual, and those wild 
and injurious speculations which have impaired confidence in this great interest 
are gradually becoming narrowed down to individual operators, whose influence 
in the community is limited. 

Legitimate mining has been as prosperous as other pursuits, though it cannqt 
be denied that there are uncertainties attached to this pecuEar business which 
render it hazardous and require more than ordinary profits to make it remunera- 
tive under the most favorable circumstances. It may seem strange in this view 
that the gross product of bullion has been gradually diminishing for some years 
past, but a brief reference to the history of mining operations on the Pacific 
coast will explain this apparent anomaly. 

The existence of gold in California was known long before the acquisition of 
that tenitory by the United States. Placers had long been worked on a limited 
scale by the Indians ; but the priests who had established the missionary settle- 
ments, knowing that a dissemination of the discoveries thus made would frus- 
trate their plans for the conversion of the aboriginal races, discouraged by all 
means in their power the prosecution of this pursuit, and in some instances sup- 
pressed it by force. As early as December, 1843, however, Manuel Castanares, 
a Mexican officer, made strenuous efforts to arouse the attention of the Mexican 
government to the importance of this great interest. 

It is not ray purpose to enter into a detail of the events preceding the dis- 
covery by Marshall on the 19th of January, 1848, or the subsequent excitement 
which resulted in the opening of the great placer mines, and the rash of immigra- 
tion in 1849. Reference is made to these incidents in the history of California 
merely to show the changes in the character of the business. At first gold was 
easily found, and required but little skill in separating it from the loose gravel 
or sand in Avhich it was imbedded. Frequently it lay so near the surface in such 
quantities and in grains of such form and size, that a simple pan or rocker com- 
prised all the means necessary, with ordinary labor, to insure extraordinary 
profits. Mere will and muscle were sufiicient. Om- people were inexperienced, 
but ingenious in devices for saving labor, energetic and industrious. 

Unskilled as they were, nearly all who went into the business realized hand- 
some profits ; and the reports of their success induced a rapid immigration from 
the Atlantic States, South America, Australia, and other parts of the world. 
Thus towns were built up ; a new and extensive commerce sprang into existence ; 



8 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

lauds were cultivated to supply the miners ; roads were cut through the difficult 
passes of the mountains; steamboat and stage lines were established; and the 
country from the western slopes of the Sien-a Ncvadas to the shores of the Pacific, 
for many hundi-ed miles north and south, became suddenly filled with an indus- 
trious, intelligent and enterprising population. Even in those early days, how- 
ever, as the surface placers receded towards their sources, time and money were 
expended in the rediscovery of inventions which had been known to the old 
world for centuries. 

With all the genius and enterprise of the American people, no important dis- 
covery in the way of machinery for mining Avas made Avhich had not been long 
in use in South America., Mexico, or Europe. The same necessities gave rise to 
identical contrivances for saving labor, and it is sufliciently creditable to our 
miners to say that without any knowledge of what others had done, they frequently 
improved upon the originals. The fact demonstrates very clearly that want of 
knowledge, even in the preliminary stages of mining, is a source of loss. When 
the precious metals are easily obtained, and the profits of individual labor are 
large, less injury results from ignorance than in the subsequent stages of the 
business, when capital is required and the process of reduction is more complicated. 
Mining differs essentially from every other branch of industry. Unlike agricul- 
ture, there is but one crop in a mine. As the work progresses the stock of mineral 
is decreased, and can never be replenished by any human art. There is no 
opportunity^ of recovering what has been lost or wasted. 

The farmer changes his crop or his system of cultivation ; and his land can be 
improved and his profits increased by experience. So also in manufactm-es and 
other pursuits. Hence it is important that the experience of mankind should be 
preserved so that eiTor may be avoided. 

Comparatively little progress was made in vein or quartz mining prior to 1860. 
Quartz veins containing the precious metals were discovered in California in 1850, 
and for several years experiments were made in working them, generally with 
loss. The Mexicans with their arastras were the only successful quartz miners. 
Experience in their own country enabled them to realize fan- profits upon their 
labors. Their system of mining, however, was too slow for an American popu- 
lation, to whom large investments of capital were of no consequence, provided 
there was a prospect of immediate and abundant returns. 

The discovery and development of the Comstock lode in Nevada gave the first 
impulse to this kind of mining. The wonderful richness of that vein attracted 
■ attention at once, and drew from all parts of the world men of scientific attain- 
ments. By the developments made in working it, the principle was establislied 
that quartz' veins could be rendered a profitable source of supply on the Pacific 
coast. The experience thus gained impelled the adventurous miners of California 
to attempt new systems, and devote themselves with greater vigor to the opening 
and working of the gold-bearing veins in that State. 

In 1860 the product from this source in California did not exceed ^,000,000. 
As the surface diggings gave out, a resort to vein mining became indispensable. 
The proportion of bullion now derived from various sources within the limits 
of the State is about as follows : from surface diggings, $2,000,000 ; from 
cement or deep-lying placers, $18,000,000; from quartz mines, $9,000,000 — total, 
$25,000,000. 

Professor Ashburner estimates that about 80 per cent, of the gold is produced 
from the mines lying north of the Mokelumne. The production of the southern 
mines is diminishing every year, and the surface diggings will soon be exhausted. 
Wherever the latter predominated a sudden but ephemeral prosperity was 
engendered. General stagnation now prevails; towns are depopulated; real 
estate is of little value; business is depressed. The population consists of 
hundreds in many counties where it formerly consisted of thousands. Ref- 
erence to the accompanying reports will show the present condition of these 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 9 

localities. Good quartz veins exist in many of them, but tlie want of capital 
Las retarded their development. Unskilled labor can make no further progress, 
and ncAv fields of enterprise have been sought by those who formerly depended 
upon the placers. Some have pushed theii- way over the mountains into Idaho, 
Montana, and other new Territories; others have given up mining and devoted 
themselves to fanning, trade, or commerce. 

Similar changes have been experienced in Idaho, IMontana, and other Teni- 
tories in which surface mining attracted a population. At first the yield was 
large and easily obtained ; as the surface deposits were worked up to their sources 
quartz veins were discovered, and machinery and skill became requisite ; the 
difficulty of access to the more remote mineral regions increased the expense of 
transportation, and the uncertainty of remunerative results impaired confidence. 
History shows that these changes occur in all mining countries and are insepa- 
rable from this branch of industr}^ 

No uneasiness need be felt as to a decrease in the source of supplj-. After 
many years of travel over the mining regions, I feel justified in asserting that 
our mineral resources are practically without limit. Explorations made by com- 
petent parties during the past year in many parts of the mineral region hitherto 
unknown demonstrate the fact that the area of the mineral deposit is much larger 
than v/as ever before supposed. It is safe to assume that of the claims already 
recorded in the settled parts of the countr}-, and kno^\ii to be valuable, not more 
than one in a hundred is being worked; and of those worked perhaps not more 
than one in fifty pays anything over expenses, o^\^ng to mismanagement, ineflS- 
cient systems of reducing the ores, want of capital, cost of transportation, and 
other causes susceptible of remedy. In many districts of Nevada silver ores of 
less value than $100 a ton cannot be worked by mill process so as to pay 
exjDcnses; and there are districts in Idaho and Montana where gold-bearing ores 
Avill not justify working unless they yield from 840 to $50 per ton. 

With such wealth of treasm'c lying dormant, it cannot be doubted that, by the 
increased facilities for transportation and access to the mines soon to be furnished 
by the Pacific railroad and its proposed branches, and the experience in the treat- 
ment of ores, and the scientific knowledge to be accpiired in a national school of 
mines adequate to the necessities of the mining population, the yield must eventu- 
ally increase. 

The adventm'ous Americans who take the lead in the development of these 
frontier regions are generally energetic and intelligent, but prone to extravagance 
and reckless speculations. 

No country in the world can show such wasteful systems of mining as prevail 
in om's. At a moderate calculation, there has been an unnecessary loss of pre- 
cious metals since the discovery of om* mines of more than $300,000,000, scarcely 
a fraction of which can ever be recovered. This is a serious consideration. The 
question arises whether it is not the duty of government to prevent, as far as may 
be consistent with individual rights, this waste of a common heritage, in which, 
not only om'selves but our posterity are interested. 

The miner has a right to the product of his labor, but has he a right to deprive- 
others of the benefits to be derived from the treasm-es of the earth, placed there 
for the common good ? The ])recious metals are of an imperishable nature, evi- 
dently designed to pass beyond the reach of the discoverer and to subserve pur- 
poses of human convenience for generations. Our children have an interest in^ 
them which we cannot with propriety disregard. 

The bill to establish a national school of mines, introduced in the Senate, at 
the beginning of the present session of Congress, by Mr. Stewart of Nevada, is 
designed to remedy this evil. Similar schools have been established in various 
parts of Europe, and the best evidence of their utility is the fact that VvC arc 
indebted to them for nearly all the knowledge we possess on the subject of 
mining and metallurgy. Our mines and mills are practically managed by foreign 



10 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

experts; we furnish tlic labor and mechanical ingenuity, hut they furnish the 
scientiric skill. Without the aid of foreign institutions we could have made but 
little progress in mining; and yet we lose much by not having similar institu- 
tions in our own country. The local circumstances existing in Europe differ 
essentially from those which prevail in the United States. It Avould be a great 
advantage, not only in the saving of expense, but in the more direct availability 
of the experience gained, if our young men could learn at home what they are 
now compelled to leam al)road. 

The plan proposed by Mr. Stewart's bill seems both feasible and economical. 
Such an institution Avonld, if properly conducted, lesult in a large annual increase 
in our bullion product. It is not unreasonable to anticipate that, instead of 
declining within a few years to forty or fifty millions per annum, as will undoubt- 
edly be the case if the present state of things continues, there would be an 
increase amounting to at least 100 per cent, on the yield of the mines for the 
past year. I venture the hope, therefore, that Congress will take this propo- 
sition into favorable consideration. The bill, as amended l)y the Committee on 
Mines and Mining, of the Senate, and the considerations upon which it is based 
will be found in the appendix, (A.) 

It is proper that I should give due credit to my assistants for the part which 
they have taken in this work. The duty of collecting statistics in California 
W'as intrusted to Mr. John S. Hittell, the able and experienced author of several 
valuable works on the industrial resources of that State. In the performance of 
the special service assigned to him he visited the principal mining districts. His 
reports are based upon actual obsen^ation, and may be relied upon as accurate 
and impartial. With the exception of the report on Nevada county, by Mr. E. F. 
Bean, the county assessor, and Mr. II. Rolfe, his assistant, and the brief reports 
on some of the northern and southern counties by Dr. Henry Degroot, with 
a sketch of the ]\torriss Ravine mines by Dr. A. Blatchley, nearly all the gold- 
bearing regions of California are described by Mr. Hittell. Important papers 
on the condition of the mining interest in Mexico, South America, Australia, &c., 
are also furnished by the same authority. 

An elaborate and interesting report on the miscellaneous minerals of the Pacific 
States and Territories is furnished by Mr. Henry 0. Bennet, a mining engineer 
familiar with the subject. No such complete and extended notice of the miscel- 
laneous mineral productions of the Pacific coast has yet been published. This 
report will be found valuable to business men, and to all others seeking informa- 
tion respecting the resources of the States and Territories west of the Rocky 
mountains. 

To Mr. R. H. Stretch, late State mineralogist of Nevada, the Comstock lode 
and regions adjacent were intrusted. His scientific and practical knowledge of 
the various departments of mining, his long experience in this particular region, 
and his known integrity, rendered the selection peculiarly fortunate, as will be 
conceded upon a perusal of his report. 

Dr. Henry Degroot, a statistician and AVi'iter, whom I deputed to travel through 
Nevada, has furnished a series of interesting papers on the miscellaneous resources 
.of that State. 

Mr. Myron Angel, of Austin, a gentleman well acquainted Avith eastern 
Nevada, contributes a report on that region, from which it will be seen that the 
mineral Avealth of Nevada is by no means confined to the Comstock lode. 

Tlie services of Dr. A. Blatchley, a mineralogist and mining engineer, were 
secured for an exploration of Montana and Idaho. This gentleman travelled 
throuo-h those TeiTitories during the months of June, July, and August, and was 
enabled to collect the information which is embodied in his reports. 

]Mr. Elwood Evans, of Olympia, formerly territorial secretary of Washington, 
lias kindly furnished detailed reports on the resources of that Territory. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 11 

To Mr. Ainswortli, Mv. Hill, Mr. Ladd, and others, I am indebted for informa- 
tion relative to the trade and resom'ces of Oregon. 

The report on Arizona is from the pen of Governor R. C. McCormick. It 
will be found extremely interesting, 

Mr. W. M. Gabb, of the State geological survey of California, whose recent 
expedition through Lower California has attracted considerable attention, con- 
tributes a detailed report on the mineral resources of that peninsula. It is the 
result of the first scientific exploration ever made of thtlt region, and possesses 
a peculiar interest at this time, owing to the investment of American capital 
there and the purchase from the Mexican govennnent of an extensive grant b^■ 
private parties for colonization by Americans. 

Many other prominent and experienced gentlemen have assisted me in the 
preparation of this report. I claim little more for myself than the direction and 
supervision of the work ; it has occupied my entire time for upwards of a year, 
and, whatever may be its imperfections, few will be disposed to deny that it pre- 
sents evidence of an earnest attempt to carry into eft'ect the wishes of the de- 
partment and the objects designed to be accomplished by Congress. 

It is a common eiTor to suppose that mining is inimical to the welfare of the 
people. No branch of industiy requiring mechanical skill and the acquisition 
of scientific knowledge can justly be said to contain in itself elements injurious 
to public morals or to the prosperity of the state. 

The tendency of this piu'suit is, at first, to attract a reckless and adventurous 
population, Avhose disregard of conventional restraint leads to the assumption 
of risks and to bold and hazardous undertakings, by which new countries are 
most rapidly opened up to settlement and civilization. Providence so ordains 
it that the superficial treasm'es of the earth designed to attract this enterprising 
c2ass soon disappear, and a higher order of intelligence is required and a more 
permanent condition of things is established. It is only necessary to look back 
over the past eighteen years to find in the advancement of the vast region known 
as the Pacific slope, the strongest possible refutation of the assertion that mining 
is inimical to the welfare of the people. Looking forward to the future, who 
can predict the high condition of prosperity likely to be attained b}'' these new 
States and Temtories eighteen years hence 1 — with trans-continental railroads 
and telegraph lines binding the Atlantic to the Pacific ; with branch roads and 
lines traversing the country north and south ; with the commerce of Asia pouring 
its treasures into our seaports ; with an export trade commanding the whole 
eastern Avorld ; Avith a probable coast line stretching from Behring Straits to 
Cape St. Lucas ; Avith innumerable flourishing cities and seaport towns ; Avitli an 
agricultural population numbering thousands where they now number hundreds ; 
with busy manufactories scattered over the land ; Avith churches, schools, and 
colleges everyAvhere throughout the mountains and valleys — All these many of 
us may live to see, but few can now realize the magnificent future that lies before 
ns. In this favored land the laborer, the artisan, the mechanic, the man of 
science, can each find profitable employment and a congenial home. As Ave 
AA^ant population to develop the dormant Avealth of our ncAv States and Tenito- 
ries, it is the interest of our government to disseminate a con'eot knoAA'ledge of 
their material resources. 

Entertaining these vicAvs, I trast the report hercAvith submitted will not bo 
without practical utility AA'herever it may be circulated. 
Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

J. ROSS BROWNE. 
Hon. H, McCuLLOCH, 

Secretary of the Treasury. 



12 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

CALIFORNIA. 

SECTION I. 

GENERAL CONDITION OF THE MINING INTEREST. 

The information and statistics relative to the gold mines of California were 
collected between the 17th May and the 25th July, but some interesting changes 
have occmTed since the tour of inquiry was made, and the facts, when ascertained, 
have been mentioned. ]\Iany of the figures and data could be obtained only 
from the mine owners, who may sometimes have misrepresented the character 
and yield of their claims in a favorable light for the purpose of selling, or in an 
unfavorable light for the purjDose of misleading the assessor and tax-collector. 
It is believed, however, that the statements as made are generally tnxe, and 
it is hoped that, taken together, they will be found to be the fullest and most 
coiTcct collection of important facts ever made relative to gold mining. 

The general condition of gold mining in California is that of decline. The 
amount of production becomes smaller every year, but the decrease is confined 
chiefly to the placer yield. In quartz more work is being done ; it is being done 
better than ever before, and there are more mines in successful operation. The 
business is flourishing and improving, with a fair prospect of continuous increase ; 
and the success of many of the mines is most brilliant. 

In 1864 Professor Ashburner wrote a report on the Mariposa estate, and in it 
he made the following general remarks : 

In 1858 there were upwards of 280 quartz mills in California, each one of which was sup- 
plied with quartz from one or more veins. The number of stamps in these mills was 2,610, 
and the total cost of the whole mill property of this nature in the State exceeded $3,000,000. 
In the summer of 1861, while I was attached to the geological survey, I made a careful and 
thorough examination of all the quartz mills and mines of the State, and could only find 
between 40 and 50 in successful operation, several of which were at that time leading a very 
precarious existence. 

Many of those old enterprises have not yet become, and never will become, 
profitable ; but of the quartz mills built within the last four or five years, the 
successful proportion is much larger than before 1860. No business offers greater 
facilities to ignorance and folly for losing money ; and, unfortunately, most of 
those who engaged in it had no experience and were led by their presumption 
into gross blunders in both mining and milling. 

The greatest common blunder in quartz mining, and the most common ciTor 
in early times as well as in our own day, has been that of erecting a mill before 
the vein was well opened and its capacity to yield a largo supply of good rock 
established. The commission of this blunder is proof conclusive of the utter 
incompetency of its author to have charge of any important mining enterprise. 
If there were any possibility that it should in some cases lead to considerable 
profit, there might be an excuse for it, but there is none. It never pays. All 
the chances, including that of utter failm'e, are against it. 

The next blunder was that the difference between a pocket vein and a charge 
vein was not understood, and the existence of rich specimens was considered 
proof of the high value of a mine, whereas among experienced quartz miners it 
excites theu* suspicions and distrust. Nine-tenths of the lodes which yield rich 
specimens do aiot pay for n^illing. West Point, in Calaveras, and Bald Moun- 
tain, in Tuolumne, the richest pocket districts of the State, are not to be com- 
pared for yield with Sutter creek or the Sierra Buttes, where there is scarcely a 
passable specimen in a thousand tons. 

The next error was tliat nothing w"as known of pay chimneys, and if good 
quartz was found in one place, it was presumed that the whole mine was of the 
same quality. In some cases the pay chimney was near the end ot a claim, into 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 13 

wliicli it dipped not far from tlie surface, leaving the mill without rocli. In 
other cases the miner had his pay chimney in his own claim, but he did not Icnow 
enough to follow it, and he worked straight down into barren rock, while there 
was an abundant supply of good quartz higher up. 

Another error was that of sinking when nothing Avas found at the surface ; a 
policy that may do in mining for other metals, but is very risky in gold. If the 
croppings are baii'en along a considerable distance, deep sinkings Avill rarely pay; 
but if the vein does not crop out, the only way to examine it may be by a shaft. 
Much rock has been crushed Avithout examination and without any proper 
selection. 

In the mortars it is a common mistake to use too much quicksilver and too 
much Avater. 

It has not been customary to make assays regularly of the tailings, so as to 
know Avhat was passing off. 

The mine oAvners, in a large proportion of the cases, have not resided at the 
mines, and have not made a study of the business ; and no occupation requires 
personal supervision and thorough knoAvledge on the part of the OAvner more than 
mining. 

These blunders are gradually being corrected, and if they were not still quite 
common the quartz mines of California would yield nearly tAvdce as much as they 
do. The business Avill never be established upon a proper basis until the super- 
intendenls as a class are AA'cll-educated chemists and mining and mechanical engi- 
neers, and the mine OA\niers frequent visitors, if not regular residents, at the mines. 
In placer mining there is not room for much improvement. All the processes 
are simpler, and the Avork has generally been done well. 

The southern mines — that is, in the counties of Amador, Calaveras, Tuolumne, 
and Mariposa — have nearly exhausted their placers. They had few deep gravel 
deposits, and in all fom* there has not been one large hydraulic claim sucii as 
abound north of El Dorado. Placer, Yuba, NcA^ada, Sierra, and Plumas are more 
prosperous than the counties further south, mainly because of their extensiA^e beds 
of amiferous gravel more than a hundred feet deep. 

The Act of July 26, 1866. — Fcav applications have been made for the pur- 
chase of quartz mines or of agricultural lands in the mineral districts, under the 
act of July 26, 1866, "granting the right of Avay to ditch and canal owners over 
the public lands, and for other pm'poses." 

The farmers of the mining districts have long been p.nxious to get titles, but 
the A^alue of their possessions has decreased considerably of late, and many of 
them do not feel able to pay for the expense of a survey. They are requhed to 
pay not the sm'vey of their respective fanns alone, but for the surA^ey of all the 
agricultural land in the whole toAViiship in Avliich they are situated, and in some 
cases this expense may be $400. If several unite, the cost is less to each ; but 
the whole expense comes upon the first application, whether made by one or 
many. After the survey has once been made, applicants have no expense save 
the price of the land and a few small incidentals. Previous to the first of June 
twenty-five farmers in Tuolumne and Stanislaus counties had expressed a deshe 
to get patents, and all would undoubtedly have taken them if the survey had 
not stood in the Avay. The public sentiment of the State is unanimously in favor 
of the sale of these agiicultm-al lands. 

The sur\^eys of quartz mines are not so expensi\^e as those of agricultm-al 
claims, because it is not necessary to survey the Avhole tOAvnshiiJ for a mine claim, 
but only to connect it Avith the public surveys by some one line, so that it can 
be laid doAA'n accm-ately upon the map. The expense depends upon circum- 
stances, but it Avill seldom exceed $100 for e\^ery step from the beginning until 
the issue of the patent, exclusive of the time and travel of the suiweyor in getting 
to the place AAdiere the mine is situated. 

The OAviiers of quartz mines generally desire to get patents, but the fact that 



14 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

the claims on i3ul)lic lands are not taxed, and that those which have been granted 
by the government are taxed, is a strong objection. The tax in the mining 
coimties varies from three to four and a half per cent, annually, and that is a 
serious consideration with many. 

The revenue law of California saj^s : 

All property, of every kind and nature whatever, within this State shall be subject to tax- 
ation, except * * * mining claims. ( HittelVs General Laws, article 6298. ) 

A supplementary act says : 

All provisions of law exempting mining claims from taxation are hereby repealed so far as 
they apply to lands or mines in the condition of private property, and granted as such by the 
Spanish or Mexican government, or the government of the United States, or of this State. 
( TAe same, article 6265. Instructions under the act of July 26, 1866.) 

The instructions issued by the Commissioner of the General Land Office to the 
surveyor general of California, and by him to his deputies, are worthy of being 
placed within their reach, and will be found in the appendix. 

Surveys. — Up to the 10th of October, 1S67, eleven surveys, made under 
applications for patents of lode mines, have been received at the United States 
surveyor general's office in San Francisco. These eleven are the Peiion Blanco, 
Virginia, Jones, Potts, and Oakes & Reese, (these two last adjoin, and may be 
considered as parts of the same mine, though on different veins,) in Mariposa 
county ; the Trio, McCann, Arbona, Hitchcock, and Grey Eagle, in Tuolumne 
county ; and th e Kelsey, in Eldorado county. Applications for surveys for patents 
have been made in many other cases, probably fifty, at least, and notices of the 
applications have been advertised in the newspapers in the mining counties, but 
the surveys have not yet reached the surveyor general. 

The State has been divided into nine districts, with a deputy surveyor in each. 
The following are the districts : 

First district. — Del Norte, Klamath, and Humboldt counties. 

Second district. — Siskiyou, Shasta, and Trinity counties. 

Third district. — Plumas, Butte, and Sierra. 

Fourth district. — Yuba and Nevada. 

Fifth district. — Placer, El Dorado, and Sacramento. 

Sixth district. — Amador. 

Seventh district. — Alpine, Mono, and Inyo. 

Eighth district. — Tuolumne, Mariposa, Stanislaus, Merced, Fresno, and Cala- 
veras. 

Ninth district. — Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Kem, San Diego, and Tulare. 



SECTION II. 

THE MOTHEE LODE. 

The mother lode is in many respects the most remarkable metalliferous vein iu 
the world. Others have produced and are producing more, but no other has been 
traced so far, has so many peculiar features, has exercised so much influence on 
the tiopography of the country about it, or has been Avorked with a profit in so 
many places. The great argentiferous lodes of Mexico and South America, the 
most productive of precious metal of all known in history, can be followed not 
more than six or eight miles ; while this Californian vein is distinctly traceable 
on the surface from Mariposa to the town of Amador, a distance of more than 
60 miles. 

Course and Dip. — The general course of the vein is very nearly northwest and 
southeast, but to be more precise it is north 40° west. If a straight line be drawn 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 15 

on the map from Mariposa to Amador, the mother lode will be in several places 
two or three miles distant from the line, hut usually within half a mile of it. 

The dip is alwaj'S to the eastward, and usually at an angle of 45° or 50° to 
the horizon. 

Character of the Gold. — The gold is generally in fine particles, and is dis- 
tributed evenly through a large portion of the lode in the pay chimneys, and 
there is very little of the rock entirely without gold. The sulphurets are not very 
abundant nor very rich, and when found they consist almost exclusively of 
pyrites of iron and copper, without those mixtures of lead, arsenic, antimony, 
and zinc which interfere with amalgamation seriously in some other lodes. The 
quartz of the mother lode is usually hard and wdiite ; and in most of the pay 
chutes near one wall or the other, ribbon rock, or rock with numerous black seams 
lying parallel with the wall, is found. In some mines, especially at the Raw 
Hide, the quartz is colored green with carbonate of copper ; and the same color, 
though not so strong, is observed in portions of the Princeton mine. 

Width. — The width varies from a foot to thirty feet ; that is, the main vein as 
worked ; but it is accompanied by branches or companion veins, so that the total 
width of vein matter is sometimes nearly a hundred feet. In some places these 
side veins are known to be branches separated at the surface from the main vein 
by ^'horses;" in others they are different in material and do not unite at the deepest 
workings. The most remarkable side veins are those of talcose slate, which in 
some places can be traced for miles. They are from two to twenty feet wide, an('i 
are rich in gold. We do not find, in our books, mention of any similar auriferous 
deposit in other countries ; but in California a number of them have been found, 
remote from the mother lode as well as near it. 

South of Maxwell's creek is a parallel talcose vein, on the west side of the 
main mother lode, known as the Adelaide, which name was given to it by Mr. 
J. ¥. Johnson. The same name has been given by mistake in Tuolumne county 
to a companion talcose vein on the east side of the main lode. There is no 
reason that the two are the same vein, or for extending the name of one to the 
other. 

Pat Chimneys. — The pay chimneys are usually large and regular, and are 
either vertical or have a slight dip to the north. 

In the companion talcose veins the pay chimneys are not distinctly marked, 
nor are the character and limit of the lode well defined. 

Hills and Hollows. — The streams seem to have made their beds in places 
where the mother lode is split up into a number of branches, as at the Mercede, 
Maxwell's creek, Tuolumne, Stanislaus, and Mokelumne rivers ; while in those 
places where the lode is wide and solid there are high hills, as at Penon Blanco, 
Pine Tree, Whiskey Hill, Quartz Mountain, and Carson Hill . The richest part of 
the vein was on tlie top of Carson Hill, and next to that in richness was Pine 
Tree Hill. The Hayward, the Oneida, and the Keystone are in valleys. The 
Golden liule and the mines at Ano'els are neither on hill nor in hollow, and are 
yet very rich. 

No other class of quartz mines in California is so poor in specimens as those 
on the mother lode, nor, with two or three exceptions, are there any others in 
which the gold is so regularly distributed through the pay chutes. 

Peculiarities of the Lode. — The chief peculiarities of the mother lode are 
■ its great length, its great thickness, its unifoiTn character, the near j)roximity of 
large companion veins, of which at least one is usually talcose, and the richness 
of the talcose veins. In reply to questions about the chief distinguishing fca- 
tm"e of the mother lode, the miners engaged in working various mines gave very 
difterent answers. One said it was the presence of a belt of green stone on the 
eastern side. Another thought it was a black putty gouge. A third spoke first 
of the occurrence of places as smooth as glass on the walls. Another consid- 
ered the motlier lode to consist of two branches, one the luminated, the other the 



16 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

l)Oulder branch. The former is usually on the west side ; the latter has the most 
curves. The lode is richest where the two meet. Another says the mother lode 
is a series of hranches, sometimes a dozen in number, covering a width that 
varies from 500 to 3,000 feet, with a greenstone porphyry wall on the east, and 
dioritic porphyry wall on the west. 

Is IT A Fissure Vein ? — The question whether the mother lode is a gash or a 
fissure vein has little practical importance. Such an in(pury is serviceable in regard 
to deposits the character of which is doubtful ; but we already know that in regard 
to length, uniformity of veinstone, continuity in depth, and number of pay chutes, 
few fissure veins exceed this. Professor Ashburner, in a report made on the Pine 
Tree and Josephine mines, in May, 1864, expressed an opinion that the "great 
majority " of the aiuiferous quartz lodes of California are gash veins ; and he 
implies that the Pine Tree, which is a part of the mother lode, belongs to that 
class. Whitney, in his ''Metallic Wealth of the United States/' says : 

True fissure veins are continuous in depth, and their metalliferous contents have not been 
found to be exhausted or to have sensibly and permanently decreased at any depth which 
has yet been obtained by mining. 

Segregated and gash veins, and the irregular deposits of ore not included under the head 
of veins, and not occurring in masses as part of the formation, cannot be depended upon as 
persistent, and they generally thin out and disappear at a not inconsiderable depth; at the 
sf^me time they are often richer for a certain distance, and contain larger accumulations of 
ore than true veins, so that they may be worked for a considerable time with greater profit 
than these, although not to be considered as of the same permanent value. 

In a report on the Princeton mine made by Professor Blake, in December, 
1864, he said: 

The identification of the Princeton as a fissure vein leads us to the question whether all 
the gold veins of the Sierra Nevada and other gold districts of similar formation are not also 
of fissure origin, rather than formed by metamorphism from materials pre-existing in the 
strata. It certainly is not essential to a fissure vein that it should cut across the strata of a 
country. In a region of regularly stratified slates, the line of least resistance to a breaking 
force is certainly the line or plane rather of the stratification. In that line or plane the rocky 
crust may be most readily split, and hence it is, I believe, that most of our veius are found 
conforming to the stratification. Professor Tuomey, in his report on the geology of South 
Carolina, describing the gold-bearing veins of that State, mentions several that for a part 
of their course follow the bedding of the rocks, and in other places cut across the bedding. 
I have observed similar conditions at various places in California, and I am daily moi^e and 
more inclined to the view that gold veins are the results of emanations from great depths 
below, which, ascending through rifts and fissures of the rocks, were condensed or deposited 
upon the walls. 

Claims in Maeiposa. — The following is a list of the claims on the mother 
lode, beginning at the mother lode and going northward : 

The Crown Lead, 4,500 feet on the mother lode, besides claims on two parallel 
lodes. Not at w'ork. Noticed elsewhere. 

The Virginia, 2,500 feet, crops out largely. A tunnel 160 feet long strikes the 
vein at a depth of 100 feet. Several shallow shafts have been sunk. Some 
good quartz has been found, but no work is being done now. There is no mill. 

The Pyles, 1,200 feet; no work done. 

The Mary Harrison has a mill, and is at work. 

The Clayton, 3,000 feet. 

The Louisa, 3,000 feet, is being opened and explored. One shaft is down 130 
feet, and another is being sunk to the same depth, and a third, commenced on a 
lower level, is down 90 feet. A tunnel started near the level of Maxwell's 
creek, strikes the bottom of the 90 foot shaft. About 2,000 tons of ore have 
been taken out, and have been crushed at the mill of the Maxwell Creek Mining 
Company, yielding $8 or $9 per ton. The mother is split up here into a number 
of branches. 

On the Margaret, 3,000 feet, no work has been done. In this claim the mother 
lode is split up into a number of narrow branches, at least at and near IMaxwell's 
creek, which separates it from the Louisa. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 17 

Tlie Pumpkin, 3,000 feet, is not doing anything. Several sliafts have been 
sunk, and some rock taken from it seven or eiglit years ago yielded -$40 per ton. 

The Nonsuch, 1,400 feet, is lying idle. 

Parallel with and opposite to the Nonsuch, 300 feet distant to the eastward, 
on a talcose slate vein, is the Hidel}' and Cunningham mine. A four-stamp mill 
commenced running last spring. 

On the King Solomon, 3,000 feet, no work is doing. 

The Yosemite, 3,000 feet, has a tunnel of exploration, but no mill, and is not 
at work. 

The Peuon Blanco, 6,000 feet long, is being explored by a tunnel running 
285 feet on the vein from the northwest side of the hill, and by a cross-tunnel 
from the east side of the hill. Eight men are at work, and $6,000 or -$8,000 
have been spent on the claim. The name is Spanish, means '' large white rock," 
and was suggested by the immense croppings of white quartz on the top of the 
high hill, which is one of the most prominent land-marks in the western part of 
Mariposa county. 

The Murphy, feet, lias done nothing. 

The McAlpin, 1,200 feet, was worked 10 years, first with an arrastra, and 
afterwards witli an eight-stamp. The lode is here 25 feet wide. A tunnel strikes 
the vein 400 feet below the surface, and a shaft runs down 160 feet from the 
tunnel. McAlpin sold out in 1864, and left the State, taking with him, if rumor 
is right, 875,000 obtained net from the mine. Since he lelt the mine has not 
paid, and the mill is now standing idle. Ten or 15 feet eastward from the 
main lode, and parallel with it, is a companion vein, which has been worked to 
some extent, and is supposed by some miners to be richer than the main lode. 
The mill is driven by water supplied by the Golden Rock Water Company, 

Claims ix TuOLUiiXE. — The following claims are now lying idle or only 
partially worked. Those marked * are idle; those upon which work is being 
done are noticed: 

The King Philip*; theNewhall,* 3,000 feet; the Rhodes,* 3,000 feet; Wood- 
worth,* 3,000 feet; ^Vheeler,* 7,500 feet; Munn*; Wotcott and Rocco*; the Cul- 
bertson,'* extending across the Tuolumne river; here comes a tract* of 1,200 feet 
in dispute ; the Kelly,* 4,000 feet ; the Clio, 2,000 feet, has a 10-stamp mill, not at 
w^ork now; the Scorpion*; the Northern Light,* 3,000 feet; the Johnson, the 
Yuma,* 3,150 feet, and the Hector, arc on the Talcose companion vein in this 
neighborhood. The Shawmut is on the main lode and has a mill. "The Eagle 
also has a mill. 

The Chickenhawk has two shafts, and is at work with a hoisting engine, but 
without a mill. The Dickson & Co.,* 1,500 feet; the Durgan & Co.,* 500 or 
GOO feet; the Golden Rule*; the Simmons & Co.,* 800 feet; the Miller, Waller- 
& Co.,* 450 feet; the Ileslcp & Co.,* 900 feet; the Simon Whitford & Co.,*' 
450 feet; the Rowe & Co.,* 350 feet; the Golden Rule, 1,600 feet, has a 15- 
stamp mill in profitable operation on the eastern vein; the Waller «& App,* 780 
feet, has a shaft 60 feet deep; the Hitchcock,* 500 feet. The Nyman, 550 feet, 
has a tunnel 150 feet long, and a shaft 40 feet deep; another tunnel is now being- 
run to open the mine. There is no mill. 

The Jim Stuart,* 530 feet, has a shaft 78 feet deep ; the App, 1,000 feet, has 
been worked regularly for seven years with a 10-stamp mill. Opposite to the 
App, on the eastern talcose vein, is the Heslep, 1,650 feet, which has been at 
work for 15 years with a 10-stamp mill. This claim extends beyond the App 
und is opposite the Jim Stuart also. 

The Silver, 1,500 feet, has a 10-stamp mill, but in May all the Avork was 
given to opening the mine. The Sweeny, 1,500 feet, has a five-stamp mill, but 
the mine has caved in, the flume was blown down, and no work is being done.. 
One pocket near the surface paid $30,000. 
2 



18 RESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The Tazewell,* 800 feet; tlie Donovmi & Co.;* the McCann,* 600 feet; the 
]\Ioonoy & Co., 600 feet, has a four-stainp mill in profitable operation working 
the talcose vein; the Trio,* 2,316 feet, has a 10-stamp mill; the Harris, 1,000 
feet, has no mill, but is being- opened; the Williams & Brother, 1,000 feet, has 
no mill, but is being opened; the Reist, 1,000 feet, has a four-stamp mill, and is 
paying; the General Hooker,* 1,200 feet; the Rawhide Extension is doing 
nothing now, though there is a shaft 200 feet deep, which alwaj^s contains water, 
sometimes to within 20 feet of the surface; in the Rawhide claim adjoining 
there is a working shaft 280 feet deep, and only 40 feet distant. The Rawhide, 
1,650 feet, is owned by a New York company, and has a 20-stamp mill. 

Tke Hensley & Co.,* 1,300 feet; the Faxon,* 1,000 feet; the Quinby, 1,000 
feet, on the eastern talcose companion vein, has a four-stamp mill which has been 
idle for years ; the Chaparral, 1,500 feet, has a five-stamp mill, but is not running ; 
the Buckeye, 1,200 feet, is on a branch vein 200 feet west of the main mother 
lode, opposite to the Chaparral. 

The Horsely,* 1,500 feet, has sunk a shaft 20 feet deep ; the Meader & Car- 
rington,* 1,500 foot, has a four-stamp mill; the Hawkeye,* 1,000 feet; the Silver 
Hill* 1,500 feet; the Gillis,* 1,200 feet; the Gillis No. 2,* 1,200 feet; the 
Seavers,* 1,000 feet; the AVatt*'; the Alsop & Co.,* reaches to the Stanislaus 
river. 

The following claims are on an eastern branch or companion vein of the 
mother lode, commencing at the Rawhide, and running northward to the Stan- 
islaus river. 

First is a piece of unclaimed ground where no lode has been found. The 
White Senior* claim; the Tom White,* 1,200 feet; the Patterson, .has a 10- 
stamp mill, but only five are running ; the Gillis, *1, 200 feet ; the Jackson;* the 
Waters;* the Rector,* 1,200 feet, has sunk a shaft 52 feet deep; the Watts, 
1^000 feet, is now at work prospecting, about $15,000 have been taken from 
f mall veins at the surface ; the Mt. Stanislaus,* 3,000 feet. 

This brings us to the Stanislaus river, in the bed of which no large vein is 
I'liscoverablc. Here, as at Maxwell's creek, the lode is split up into a multitude 
of little branches. 

Claims ix Calaveras. — Immediately north of the Stanislaus river, on the 
line of the mother lode, Carson hill rises to an elevation of 1,600 feet above the 
river; and the lode in passing through the hill appears to split into three branches. 
On the eastern branch are the following, viz : the Virginia,* 1,000 feet; the 
Adjunction,* 800 feet ; the Carson Hill, has done some work, but is not doing any- 
thing now ; the South Carolina, 2,550 feet, has yielded $400,000, and is now closed ; 
the Enterprise,* 800 feet ; the Reserve, 980 feet, is being reopened, but has no 
mill, the yield has been 6130,000. 

These are all the claims on the eastern branch. On the middle branch are the 
following, commencing at the river, and running northward : the Stanislaus,* 
1,200 feet; the Mineral Mountain,* 3,000 feet; the Meloncs* 1,200 feet. 

On the western or Santa Cruz branch is the Santa Cruz* mine, 3,000 feet ; the 
Morgan, 500 feet, has no mill, but is at work, yielded $2,800,000 in 1850 
and 1851 ; the Kentuckj',* 220 feet ; the Iron Rock, 1,300 feet, is doing nothing, 
though some very good rock was found in short tunnels and shafts ; the Chapar- 
ral,* 3,031 feet; the Chaparral Hill, 3,200 feet, is now at work taking out rock, 
but has no mill. 

Here comes a space where the vein has, not been found. 

The Hanford, 900 feet ;* the Hanford and Shears,* 

Here comes an interval of a mile and three-quarters, before we reach the town 
of Angels, 

The Stickles, 400 feet, has a 10-stamp mill at work ; the Calaveras,* 1,100 
feet, had a nine-stamp mill which was moved away ; the Lightner, 400 feet,* had a 
10-stamp mill, but it has been moved away; the Angel, 900 feet, has a 30-stamp 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 19 

mill, now at work ; the Hill, 412 feet, lias produced $250,000, and has a 12- 
stampmill at work; the Bovee, 450 feet, has produced $G00,000, and has a 10- 
stamp mill at work; the Fritz,* 600 feet, had a 10-stamp mill, which was moved 
away. 

Here comes another space where the mother lode is not traceable on the surface, 
and has not been traced. The general opinion, is that it crosses the Mokelumne 
river about three miles west of Mokelumne Hill. 

Claims in Aitador. — North of that river, in Amador county, we hav.'i 
the following : the Tibbetts & Corliss ;* the Hay ward, 1,800 feet, has 56 
stamps at work, crashing 80 tons per day, and has been at work since 1852, 
the reputed yield is $27 per ton gross, and S22 net, or more than $600,000 
net per year ; the Loring Hill, 700 feet, has been worked for 10 j^ears. Oppo- 
site to the Loring Hill, on a parallel vein, is the Railroad, 800 feet. This 
mine has yielded 870,000, and is now at work, but has no mill. The Wild- 
man, 1,130 feet, is down 530 feet, and has drifted 200 feet, but the 12-stamp 
mill is employed in doing custom-Avork ; the INIahoney has been working five 
3'ears, with a 15-stamp mill ; the Lincoln, 2,378 feet, has worked 10 or 12 
years, but the 20-stamp mill is now engaged in custom-work ; the Barnhart,* 
1,000 feet; the Comet, 750 feet, has commenced prospecting; the Herbertville, 
1,200 feet, had a 30-stamp mill, which never paid, and was burned down. 
No work is being done at the mine. The Keystone, has a 20-stamp mill, 
has worked steadily since 1851, and has produced about $700,000. Opposite to 
the Keystone, on a companion vein, is the Spring Hill, 1,200 feet, which has 
crushed 50,000 tons of quartz, but obtained little profit. It has a 30-stamp 
mill, which is idle, with the exception of five stamps engaged in custom-work. 
The Amador, 1,300 feet, was worked to a depth of 240 feet some years ago, but 
afterwards caved in, and has stood idle now, lor some time ; the Bunker Eill, 
1,200 feet, is at Vv'ork with an eight-stamp mill; the Mayflower,* 1,200 feet; 
the Hazard,* 800 feet, has an eight-stamp mill ; the Pennsylvania,* 1,000 feet ; 
the Loyal,* 600 feet, has a 20-stamp steam mill ; the Italian, 340 feet, has 
a sis-stamp mill, which has crushed about 2,000 tons ; the Seaton, 1,200 feet, has 
a 40-stamp mill, and has worked about 10,000 tons of quarts, which averaged 
eight or nine dollars. The mill is not running, but the mine is being opened. 
The McDonald,* 800 feet; the Potosi, 800 feet, is at work with a sixteen-stamp 
mill ; the Webster,* 600 feet, had a mill, which was moved away ; the Plymouth, 
1,200 feet, is being worked with a 15-stamp mill; the Enterprise, is at Avork 
with a 10-stamp mill; the Challen,* 1,000 feet; the Green Aden,* 1,200 feet, 
has a shaft 100 feet deep; the Hooper,* 1,200 feet; the Noe,* 800 feet; the 
Richmond, 800 feet, has a 10-stamp mill, but the only work now being done 
is prospecting. 

Here we reach the Cosumnes river, and north of this the lode has not been 
traced distinctly, although the Pacific lode at Placerville appears to have its 
characteristics. 



SECTION III. 

MARIPOSA COUNTY. 

Mariposa* county, the southernmost of the rich placer mining counties ot the 
Sacramento basin, lies between parallels 37° and 38° of north latitude, and 
reaches from the summit of the Sierra Nevada to the low land of the San Joa- 
quin valley. The northern boundary is the divide between the Tuolumne and 
Mercede rivers, and the southern is a line drawn northeastward from the point 

' The name of this county is derived from the Spanish •' Las Mariposas," The Butterflies. 



20 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

where tlie Cliowcliilla river strikes the plain. The only permanent stream in 
the county is the Merced ; the so-called Mariposa river is a little brook which 
can readily be stepped across in the summer season. 

The distance of the town of Mariposa from Stockton is 90 miles, and the 
ordinary charg-e for freight in the summer is $25 per ton of 2,000 pounds. A 
stage runs to Bear Valley in a day from Stockton, and the fare is $10. Another 
stage line runs to Coulterville, and the fare there is $10, and the distance is 
made in one day. The county tax for the current fiscal year is $3 19 per $100 
of taxable property. Coulterville lies north and Bear Valley south of the 
Mercede river, the banks of which, in that vicinity, are so steep and high that no 
wagon road has been made across it ; and although the distance from one toA\Ti 
to the other by the horse trail is only 10 miles, it is 45 by the wagon road. 

Sectional area of Mariposa county, 1,884 square miles. Population in 1860, 
6,243; estimated in 1866, 4,170. , Assessed valuation of property in 1865, 
$1, 237,370.- Mr. Wm. S. Watson, constructing engineer of the projected Cop- 
peropolis and Stockton railroad says : " I'rom the nature of the country and the 
pursuits of the inhabitants, Mariposa im})orts of merchandise 4,240 tons per 
annum, which, with an increase of population to the standard of Nevada county, 
and the consequent development of her vast resources, would be quadrupled in 
a very short time. The down freights from this county, consisting of copper 
ores, Avool, hides, &c., amount to 920 tons annual h'. The principal points of 
shipping are Hornitas, Princetown, Agua Frie, Mariposa, Coalterville and Bear 
Valley. Total up and down freights, 5,1G0 tons." 

The shipment of gold dust from Coulterville was $13,285 in July, 18G6; 
$13,500 in August; $17,000 in September; $24,900 in October; $14,790 in 
November; $7,280 in December, $4,950 quartz and $9,484 placer in January, 
1867; $11,050 placer and $14,800 in March; and $8,080 quartz and $3,660 
placer in April. 

The average monthly shipment of treasure from the town of Mariposa is 
$17,000 or $18,000. 

There are two small ditches south of the Jlercede river, and a branch of the 
Golden Rock ditch extending to Pefion Blanco, and these are the only ditches 
in the county. In proportion to the yield of gold, Mariposa has fewer ditches 
than any other county in the State. 

Placer Mixing. — Many of the placer districts in the county have been very 
rich, but the diggings -have in no place been deep, and they would long ago have 
been exhausted if there had been large ditches to supply water ; but these were 
lacking, so washing has been conducted on a small scale, and for only a brief 
period each year. The richness of the ground and the coarseness of the gold 
has enabled the miners to make a profit sometimes by dry digging or scratching 
the gravel over with a butcher-knife. IMaxwell's Creek, Blue Gulch, Bear Creek, 
White's Gulch, Pefion Blanco, the north fork of the Mercede, the banks of the 
main Mercede, and the vicinities of the towns of Mariposa and Hornitas were 
especially rich. In Maxwell's Creek, about 1852, the common 3'icld was $15 or 
$20 per day to the man, and in 1863 two miners in two months washed out 
$16,000 at Peuon Blanco. In 1850 Horse Shoe Bend, on the Mercede, had a 
population of 400 miners. There are now a dozen small and shallow hydraulic 
claims there, which pay about $4 per da}^ to the man. The population of the 
bend numbers 100, of whom half are Chinamen. On the top of "Buckhom 
mountain, east of Coulterville, at an elevation 1,500 feet above the Mercede 
river, there is a placer which pays well while it rains, but cannot be worked at 
any other time for want of water. Flyawa}', in a gully by the side of Buckhorn 
mountain, is also rich, but there, too, no water can be got save during rains. 

Agricultuee. — There is no agriculture in Miu-iposa county Avorthy of note. 
There is not one large orchard, vineyard, or grain farm. Only a small quantity 
of rain falls, and the soil appears to be of a very dry nature. A large portion 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 21 

of the surface is occniiied liy steep hills, which prove their thirsty character hj 
sustaining no vegetation save the chemisal. There' are no ditches to sustain 
irrigation, and as the most populous part of the county was the IMariposa grant, 
the residents there having no title had no sufficient inducement to invest money 
in planting trees and vines. The western part of the county is made up chiefly 
of chemisal hills, with occasionally small dales with scattered oak trees. In the 
eastern part of the county there are some plains about 3,000 feet high, and these 
have a rich and moist soil and may some day become far more valuable than 
they are now. Still ftirther east, at an elevation of 5,000 feet or more, we come 
to large forests of good pine timber, with occasional groves of the big tree. 

YosEMiTE. — One of the resources of the county is the possession of the 
Yosemite valley, which is destined to be a favorite place of resort when access 
is cheaper and more comfoi-tal»le than at present. The trip can now be made 
from San Francisco to the valley and back in eight days for $75, staying only 
a. day in the valley, but the average amount spent on the trip by visitors is not 
less than $150. On the Coulterville trail there is a stretch of 39 miles to be 
made on horseback, with no house on the way ; and on the IMariposa trail the 
nearest house to the valley is 25 miles off. Thus there is no mode of reaching 
the place except a hard ride over a very rugged road, and it is a severe trial to 
persons unaccustomed to riding horseback. A wagon road might be made, but 
some of the people on the route think it their policy to prevent the construction 
of a road. Near the Mariposa trail is a fine grove of the big trees. The num- 
ber of visitors to Yosemite in 1864 was 240 ; in 1865, 360 ; and in 1866, 620. 

The Maeiposa Estate. — The Mariposa Estate, or Fremont Grant, as it is 
sometimes called, contains 44,380 acres, or al)out 70 square miles. It reaches 
12 miles from east to west, and 12i miles from north to south. Its greatest 
length, from northwest to southeast, is about 17 miles, and its average width 
nearly 5 miles. Its northern line touches the Mercer river, the southern the 
town of Bridgeport. It includes the towns of Mariposa, Bridgeport, Guadalupe, 
Arkansas Flat, Lower Agua Fria, Upper Agua Fria, Princeton, ]\Iount Ophir, 
and Bear Valley. The grant was made while California was under tlie dominion 
of Mexico, to Juan B. Alvarado, and it was pm'chased in 1847 by J. 0. Fremont, 
who presented his claim for the land to the United States land commission, 
and it was finally confirmed to him, and the patent was issued Februarj'^, 1856. 
The original grant was of land suitable for grazing purposes in the basin of the 
Mariposa river, but the boundaries Avere not iixed, and the grantee had the right 
of locating the claim on any land Avithin a large area. When the grant was to 
be surveyed Fremont said he wanted a long strip of land in the low-land on 
both banks of the Mariposa river; but the United States surveyor told him the 
survey must be in a compact form. Then, instead of taking a compact area of 
grazing land and worthless mountain, he swung his grant round and covered the 
valuable Pine Tree and Josephine mines, near the Mercede river, besides a number 
of others which had been in the undisputed possession of miners, who had long 
been familiar with Fremont, and had never heard the least intimation from him 
that he would in any event lay claim to their works. Personal indignation thus 
came in to embitter a quarrel involving large pecuniary interests; but the patent 
did not necessarily give the gold of the grant to Fremont. Under the Mexican 
law the grantee had no right to the minei^als, and the American law spoke of a 
confii-mation, not an enlargement, of the Mexican title. Here then was another 
subject for litigation, and at last, in 1859, that matter was settled by a decision 
that an American patent for land carries the minerals with it. The adverse 
claimants defied the officers of the law; the mines were converted into fortifica- 
tions; the mouths of the tunnels were barricaded; there were besiegers and 
besieged; several men were killed ; but at last, in 1859, Fremont triumphed, and 
under his IMexican grant obtained land which the ]\Iexican government did not 
intend to grant, and minerals which it systematically reserved. 



22 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

In a short time after the title was satisfactorily settled the yield of gold from 
the quartz mines of the estate became ver^'- large. The monthly production in 
18C0 averaged 839,500; in 1861, $53,500; in 18G2,the year of \lie great flood, 
which injined the mills, flooded mines, and brohe up roads, 843,500; and in tho 
first five months of 1863, 877,000. In March, 1863, the yield Avas 894,000; in 
April, 892,000 ; and in May, 8101,000. The production seemed to have reached 
the figure of $100,000 per month, with a fair prospect of still further increase. 
It was at this time that the estate was sold to an incorporated company in New 
York city, and the stock put upon the market in the midst of the San Francisco 
miuiug stock fever, which extended its influence across the continent. The 
prospectus of the company presented a very attractive picture to speculators. 
The average monthly yield for three years and a half had been $50,000, and for 
half a year the net profits had equalled that sum. The reports of various mining- 
engineers indicated that the results of future workings would be still better. 
Messrs. Wakelee and Ganiett, who spoke with great caution, and expressed 
doubts about the value of the Mariposa, the Pine Tree, and Josephine mines, 
still thought that the montlily productions of the estate could soon be raised to 
8220,000, at an expense of not more than $50,000, leaving $170,000 net monthly 
income. Dr. J. Adelberg, speaking of the Pine Tree and Josephine mines, said : 

In regard to the value of the veins, I can say no more than that their yield in precious 
metal is limited only by the amount of work done in them; but I recollect Mr. Fremont 
once commissioning me to make an estimate as to their endurance in the limits of the longi- 
tudinal extent now opened. I found by calculation that they would yield for 388 years lUO 
tons daily, without the requisition of pumps. I mean down to the water level. 

Mr. Timothy C. Allyn made a report on the property in December, 1862, and 
exjDressed the opinion that the yield could be increased 8100,000 per month, 
gross, and $50,000 net. A report equally favorable by Mr. Claudet was also 
published. Professor Whitney, a most careful, conscientious, and competent 
authorit}', had said : 

The quantity of material which can be mined may, without exaggeration, be termed 
inexhaustible. I can hardly see a limit to the amount of gold which tho property is capable 
of producing, except in the time, space, and capital required to erect the necessary mills, 
build roads to them, and open mines, so as to keep them supplied with ore. 

With these opinions and facts, large quantities of the stock were pinchased, 
and there were large quantities of it to be purchased, for the paper capital of 
the company was $10,000,000. 

The company was organized by Fremont's creditors, Avho had become owners 
of the property'; but instead of cancelling the debt and taking stock for it, the}' 
took a mortgage for $15,000,000, payable in gold, and issued the stock subject 
to that debt, which was supposed to be the only incumbrance on the property; 
at least that was the supposition of many who l)Ought the stock. It soon 
appeared, however, that there were 8480,000 in gold due, besides $300,000 on the 
garrison lien, $50,000 on the Clark mortgage, and $130,000 to workmen and 
others in California. The new company selected Mr. F. L. Olmsted for their 
manager, and he took charge of the estate on the 14th November, 1864. He 
found everything in confasion. The production had fallen off very suddenly 
after the sale. It seeuled as if every nerve had been strained to make the yield 
of May as large as possible, and that as soon as the sale was made the produc- 
tion decreased more than 50 per cent. The yield for the first five months of 
1863 before the sale was $385,000, and dining the last six after the sale was 
8186,993. In the former period there was a net profit of $50,000 per month 
in the latter a net loss of $80,000. 

In May, 1864, Professor Silhman made a report on the estate, in which he 
said : 

A person accustomed to view mines must be deeply impressed on the first view of this 
estate, not more with the syreat extent and vigor of the former workings — evidence of which 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 23 

is seen equally in the underground extraction and in the surface works, railroads, mills, 
trails, wagon roads, warehouses, and workshops— than with the equally conspicuous fact that 
the former owners had no regard for their successors, inasmuch as they have in every instance 
violated in the most remarkable manner that fandaaiental maxim of all successful minino-, 
namely, to keep works of exploration well in advance of works of extraction. The neglect 
of this maxim, in ordinary cases, is never of doubtful issue. In your case the result has been 
peculiarly unfortunate, since your estate is not a mine, but a vast collection of mineral veins, 
on many of which valuable mines may be developed, and on some of which such develop- 
ments were made of an encouraging character, but the neglect to apply the principle in ques- 
tion has resulted in the complete suspension of three of the mills, the partial suspension of 
a fourth, and the supply of the fifth for a time with an inferior quality of ore, all because the 
veins on which these mills depended for ore were worked on the improvident plan of taking 
all the ore'in sight as far and as fast as it could be found, but never anticipating the evU 
day, sinking shafts and driving levels long enough in advance of the calls of the present 
hour to foresee disaster, much less to prevent it. 

A mine is a storehouse in which are garnered certain treasures of large, it may be, but not 
inexhaustible supply. Certain it is, the ore which has been mined will never recur. Hence, 
it is the fate of all mines at some period to become exhausted. The only compensation to 
this circumstance is in the possession by one company of a considerable number of mines 
which may be brought, in succession, into activity, so as to supplement each other. Your 
position in this respect is one of immense strength ; not only do you hold on the Mariposa 
estate a vast plexus of veins, of most of which very little is known at present, but you also 
own a great length of country on several veins, the character of which is already proved. 
It follows from this state of facts that, with the frugal and timely application of capital, you 
ought never to be in a position where the partial or complete exhaustion of a particular mine, 
or of several mines, should be severely felt on your general production, nor would it be so 
to-day had it been the interest of those who preceded you to apply the simple maxim already 
quoted. But the reckless disregard of this sound principle has resulted, not only in a partial 
suspension of your production of gold— amounting to a serious disappointment of well-founded 
hopes— but, still worse, in the almost destruction of certain parts of the mines, where the 
usual piers of vein have been removed for milling, leaving the mines to crush in, eudano-er- 
ing not human life only, but the very existence of the mines themselves. The simple result 
of all this has been, that your manager found himself, at the outset of your occupancy, face 
to face with a most embarrassing and painful state of facts, with the alternative before him 
of throwing off the duty he had undertaken or of grappling with the difficulties and, by a 
series of judicious measures, extricating tiiis noble estate from its disastrous position. For- 
tunately for all concerned, he elected the latter alternative; and it will give me pleasure to 
point out in what manner he has, with great good judgment, proposed to meet the difficulties 
ne has found. 

It is quite obvious, from the facts and statements already detailed in this report, that you 
hold an estate of very great value, but also in a great degree undeveloped, and demanding a 
large amount of active capital for its proper management. That the judicious use of money 
will be rewarded, and that speedily, by exploring the undeveloped quartz veins of the estate, 
is too obvious, I trust, after the arguments and facts already set forth, to require further illus- 
tration. All explorations will not be fruitful certainly, but those which are so will become 
so largely remunerative that they will cancel tlie others. By no other plan can you hope to 
manage the estate with honor or protit. By this method you will be sure to develop a vast 
value, which will render your stock desirable as a permanent and safe investment. By any 
other system you may attain a spasmodic vitality — to be followed soon by a total collapse. 

Your manager fully appreciates these views, and his plans now in progress of development 
will not fail to secure the early and permanent prosperity of the Mariposa estate. 

In 1864 tlie yield was $465,000, and tlie expenditure of tlie mines and mills 
$760,000. With a debt of $3,000,000, (that was about the figure on the 1st 
Januar\', 1865,) and a monthly loss of $20,000, the company was evidently not 
in a prosperous condition. On the 23d January, 1865, a committee of stock- 
holders, appointed to investigate the condition of the company, made a report, 
and recommended that money be raised by assessment or loan to pay the most 
pressing debts, so that the work might be continued. They gave it as their 
opinion that the property was ''worth preserving to the stockholders,"' and that 
the embarrassments were ''owing to defective organization and want of working 
capital." The company did not succeed in raising the money to pay their most 
pressing debts, and the estate was placed in the hands of Dodge Brothers, cred- 
itors, for the purpose of enabling them to work it and pay their own and others' 
debts. 

The trustees found, according to their own statement, that they had spent 



24 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

more at the end of a jcar tlian tliey liad received ; and tlie company being dis- 
satisfied, brought suit and obtained tlic appointment of a receiver, wLo is now 
(May, 1867,) in possession.* 

* Mr. Mark Bnininprin, president of the company, under date of September 6, 1867, gives 
the following- statemcut of the present condition of the Mariposa estate : 

After a period of legal and iinancial difficulties which have weighed heavily upon the Mari- 
posa estate, the company have succeeded in successfully terminating the long pending law 
suit with the lessees. A final settlement has been made with the Messrs. Dodge Brothers, 
(the lessees.) by which they relinquish to the company all their rights under the Olmstead 
lease for the possession of the whole property. 

The floating debt has been reduced from about $200,000 to less than .$60,000, which has 
been concentrated into holders who are interested in the success of the company, and the 
greater portion of which is made payable in instalments running through the next twelve 
months. 

The Mariposa estate consists of upwards of 44,000 acres of gold-bearing land, in the heart 
of the mineral region of California. It contains more than 1,000 auriferous quartz veins, 
of which some :W have been partially opened, and proved to be paying veins when provided 
with ])roper reduction works. Of these mines only five have been supplied with machinery, 
and that of a primitive kind, and very inefficient for saving gold. Where thousands have 
been taken from the estate, millions of dollars have been lost by bad management and worth- 
less machinery. 

The working of the Josephine and Pine Tree mines for the year 1860, and to the date of the 
incorporation of the company, shows an average gross yield of $3 53^ to the ton. From 
that time the, yield for the above two mines has been respectively, as follows: 

The Pino Tree mine, under the succeeding management, yielded, in gross, an average of 
$8 per ton ; the lower run having been $i 21, and the highest, $9 97 per ton. 

The books kept by the Olmsted management also exhibit the following in regard to the 
Josephine mine : The lowest run for any one clean up was $2 42 per ton ; the highest, $7 O"^ 
per ton, making an average gross yield for this period of l|4 .^)2 per ton. In brief, the average 
yield of this mine was at that time so low that it was partially abandoned as worthless by 
their method of saving gold. 

Under the next management, (that of the lessees of the company who succeeded Olmsted,) 
the books show that the quartz from these two mines was worked together with an average 
gross yield of $9 01 per ton, the ore having been more or less selected. 

The Pine Tree vein is in some places over 30 feet wide, and runs parallel with the Jose- 
phine, which has a width of some 12 feet,- both mines cropping out on the summit of Mount 
Bullion, ],.500 feet above the Mercer river, at which the Benton mills are located. 

The Josephine contains considerable sulphurets, while the Pine Tree has rather the charac- 
ter of a "free gold" vein. Both have more or less of oily substances in the seams of the 
veins. The ore contains largely of " float gold," so fine that it floats for hours on the surface 
of tbo water. 

Quartz from these mines is now supplied to the mills from the tunnels penetrating the 
veins near the top of the hill, but it is designed to open them by a tunnel at the base, some 
thousand feet below the present workings, which will insure an unfailing supply of ore. 

Under the company's, or present management, since we obtained full possession, we have 
changed the Bear Valley mill into the " eureka process" for saving gold. This mode of 
disintegration produces a fine, almost impalpable powder, like superfine flour. Haifa ton 
of this is enclosed dry in an iron receiver. Superheated steara or gas is admitted, which, in 
the course of a few minutes desulphurizes and drives off all base metals and oily substances. 
Quicksilver is then introduced, and a portion evaporized, and is afterwards condensed by 
comiuon steam and cold water. An ingeniously constructed shaking table, of copper, about 
20 feet long, on a Avoodeu frame, with riffles of a peculiar formation, gives to the water 
and pulverized substance, with the amalgam, the same action as that of the ocean surf, an 
undertow. As the mass descends on the table, the amalgam, from its metallic w'eight, grad- 
ually clears itself from the quartz substances, and the gold is easily and quickly collected in 
the troughs of the riffles ; and so effectually that the residue contains scarcely a trace of gold. 

With this mill the company have recently worked some 800 tons of quartz from the 
Josephine mine. The lowest yield at any clean up was $'M per ton; the highest was 
$173 per ton ; giving an average of $40 53 per ton. In the greater portion of this quarta 
not a particle of gold could bo discerned before crushing. From these facts it will readily 
appear why the property has hitherto paid no dividends. 

Captain Henry .J. Hall, a practical and experienced quartz miner, has now charge ot tne 
mines and mills of the company, and is adapting the eureka gold-saving process to all the 
mills of the estate. The aggregate capacity of these mills under former management was 292 
tons daily, or about 7,500 tons per month, a capacity which still exists. The mills are located 
near the Josephine, Pine Tree, Mariposa, ilount Ophir, and Princeton mines, all proved to 
be large, well defined, and inexhaustible veins. There may be easily taken out from these 
five mines, at the present time, 200 tons of gold ore per day, and increased on the present 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 25 

Es]ierience(l quartz miners, familiar with tlie estate, are almost unanimous in 
the opinion that the Princeton, the Pine Tree, and the Josephine mines are 
far from exhausted, but, on the contrar}', that they are all very valuable, and 
ought to be made to pay well, and that the failiu-es of the last four years are to 
be ascribed mainly to bad management. It is true that when the Mariposa 
company took possession the mines were not opened in advance as they should 
have been ; but they were opened, the position of the pay chimneys was deter- 
mined, the hoisting works and pumps and mills were in Avorking order, with 
capacity to crash and amalgamate 150 tons of rock i^er day ; there were experi- 
enced miners present, familiar with the character of each vein ; there Vv-as a rail- 
road for transporting the rock of two of the principal mines to the mill ; and 
there were improvements that were indispensable, and that could not have been 
placed there for less than a quarter of a million dollars. The property, how- 
ever, Avas not managed properly, and the result Avas a failure, Avhich is the more 
remarkable because it foUoAA'ed immediately upon the heels of the most brilliant 
success. 

PRTXCETOiSr. — The Princeton mine has been one of the most productive in 
California, and has been noted for both the abundance and the richness of its 
quartz. For a time it yielded $90,000 per month from milling rock, and this is 
more than any other mine of the State ever did. 

The mine is situated about half A\-ay betAveen the Mariposa and the Pine Tree 
mines, and is on a hill easily accessible. The com-se of the \'ein is nortliAvest 
and southeast ; the dip, 55° northeast ; the thickness A'aries fi'om a fcAV inches 
to 10 feet. Tlie A^ein has been opened to a depth of 560 feet on an incline, 
and 200 feet below the surface ; drifts haA'e been run 1,200 feet along the A^eija, 
and at the deepest workings the drifts extend 500 feet. The richest rock was 
found Avithin 100 feet of the surface, Avliere the pay AA'as $70 per ton from milling 
well, besides large numbers of s[)ecimens, of Avhich it is said that not less than 
$100,000 in A^alue Avere stolen by the miners. Below this rich mass of rock the 
quartz gradually became poorer, and there Avere spots Avhich did not paj' for 
working ; V)ut it is said that there is still an abundant supply of good milling 
rock in sight. 

Professor W. P. Blake made a report on the mine in N^OA^ember, 1861, and 
said : ' 

The vein is composed of white friable quartz, and is divided into parallel layers or plates 
by thin slatey films, Avhich are generally charged Avith fine-grained pyrites and free gold. 
The body of the quartz bears white vein pyrites crystallized and spread in irregular patches 
and a small portion of galena, together Avith free gold in irregular ragged masses, in plates 
and scales, and sometimes crystals. The gold appears to be most abundant m the neighbor- 
hood of the galena, and is found not only with the iron pyrites striking its sheets through its 
substance, but entirely isolated from it and enA'eloped in the pure white quartz. Some of 
the specimens preserved are exceedingly rich and beautiful, and just before my examination 
of the A'ciu some superb crystallizations had been broken out. These crystals are bunches 
of octahedrons, A\'ith perfectly flat and highly polished faces from one-eighth to three-six- 
teenths of an inch across, and are attached to masses of white quartz. 

openings by enlarging the AVorking facilities, to 4,000 tons per day. The cost of mining and 
reducing the ore will be less than $10 per ton, and may yield an average of $40 per ton. The 
old mills have produced upwards of $3,500,000. Under an intelligent system of working 
they ought to have yielded over $10,000,000. 

The amount of profits from the estate can only be estimated in proportion to the number of 
mills provided for the reduction of the ores. The reader may draw his own conclusions from 
the facts and figures herewith presented. 

It will be remembered that the representations heretofore made by the undersigned were 
based on the low estimate of a sure gross average yield of $20 per ton, by the new reducing 
machinery. The present working shows that such estimates may no longer be regarded as 
theoretical, as the actual results fully illustrate. Theywill be amply confirmed by the future 
of this great property. 



26 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Professor Llake made a second rejjort on tliis mine in Decemljer, 1S64, and 
said : 

It is evident on a careful examination of the surface that there is a want of conformity in 
direction between the vein and the slates. The slates on the west side are curved towards 
the vein in the form of a bow, the ends of the curve appearing to abut against the vein at 
both ends, tlie vein forming in its line of outcrop, Avith respect to the slates, the chord of an 
arc. There is also a want of conformity in direction between this body of curved slates on 
the west side of the vein and those on the east side of it, showing witli most distinctness at 
the nortli end, near the mouth of the upper drift. On the east side the trend of tlie slates is 
seen to vary at dift'crcnt places from north 45° west to north 93° west. They are nearly east 
and west at the north end of the vein. * * * There is also a want of conformity between 
the body of curved slates on the west side of the vein and the slates still further to the west, 
as if the curved body of slate had been broken from some other place and forced into its 
present position. The line of contact is not very distinct, but just in the position we would 
expect to find it we see a quartz vein which seems to mark the i^lace. It is approximately 
parallel with the Princeton vein, and is also gold-bearing. 

This want of coiiformity in the direction of the slates on the opposite sides of the vein and 
with tlie course of the vein itself, and the fact that the ends of the layers of slate abut against 
the vein, or in other words, that the vein does not coincide with the plane of the beddiug or 
stratification of the slates, justifies the conclusion that it is a fissure vein rather than a bedded 
mass, as has heretofore been generally supposed. It evidently occupies the lino of break 
between the two distinct bodies of slate. 

The mineralogical character of the slates on the opposite sides of the vein is also different. 
The slates on the west side are much more sandy than those on the east, whicli are argilla- 
ceous and in very thin layers of uniform composition, presenting the well-known appearance 
and character of roofing slates. There are several layers in the series on the west side which 
might be called sandstones rather than slates. There are also in connection with these sandy 
bars of a hard argillaceous rock, with an obscure slaty structure which resists weathering 
more than the surrounding portions and stands out in well-defined outcrops. These two 
bars of rock are each from six to eighteen inches in thickness, and arc about 170 feet apart, 
******* 

It is a curious fact that the gold-bearing part of the vein appears to have a certain relation 
to these peculiar argillaceous rocks or strata, for it does not extend beyond the line of contact 
of these strata with the plane of the vein. So also in the northern extension of the Princeton 
vein, half a mile to the northwest, at the Green Gulch mine, where the vein was productive, 
the same peculiar rock is found in connection with the vein on the west side. 

Near tlic mill the vein splits and the two branches run off southeastward 
nearh' ])aral]el with one another. At a distance of a mile they are al)out 300 
yards apart. These branches have not been well explored or prospected, so not 
much is known of their character. On the main vein there are seven shafts and 
a great number of workings of different classes, such as might bo expected of a 
mine that has yielded $4,000,000 and sustained a considerable town. From 
January, 1859, till June, 1860, Steptoe and Ridgway had charge of the mine, 
and extracted 2,000 tons, which averaged 818 per ton. From June 1, 1860, 
till November of the same year, under the management of Park, 23,916 tons of 
quartz were crushed, yielding $527,633, an average of $22 25 per ton. In 1862 
and 1863 the production was 121,000 tons of quartz and $2,000,000 of bullion, 
averaging $16 50, In 1864 the yield of bullion was $243,707, In 1863, 
when the mill was working rock which yielded $53, the tailings, according to 
assay, contained $13 56 per ton. The pay was distributed rather in an irregu- 
lar mass than in a chimney ; but Professor Blake expressed the opinion in his 
report of 1864 that there was a chimney, and that its dip was 18° to the horizon. 

The Princeton mill has 24 stamps, and is the smallest on the Mariposa estate, 
at least of those owned, erected, and worked by the Mariposa com})any. The 
capacity of the mine far exceeds that of the mills, and while the former was in 
a productive condition much of the ore was sent to other mills. The gold in 
the quartz is coarse and is easily caught in the batter}^, or at least most of it ; 
but the assays of the tailings show that great quantities of it were lost. The 
heap of tailings at the null is immense, and it will no doubt be worked over at 
some day Avith a profit, if not all blown away. The sand being line many 
pounds of it are carried off every horn' w'hen the Avind bloAVS in smnmer. The 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 27 

mill was driven by steam. The stam]3s weigh 550 pounds and made 70 drops 
per minute. Both mine and mill are noAv idle. 

The Pixe Tkee. — The Pine Tree mine, contiguous to the Josephine, and 
thirteen miles from the town of Mariposa, is considered to be on the main mother 
lode, which runs northwest and southeast, dips to the northeast, and is here in 
places 40 feet thick. The ore is extracted through tunnels and carried down to 
the mills on a railroad. The workings are 500 feet deep and 1,000 feet long in 
the vein. There are seven pay chimneys, which vary in length, horizontally, 
from 40 to 200 feet. The rock in each chimney has a peculiar color or appear- 
ance, so that persons familiar with the mine could tell at a glance from which a 
piece of quartz came. The coarsest gold was found in the narrowest chimney. 
In three years previous to May, 1S63, the Pine Tree and Josephine mines pro- 
duced 45,000 tons of ore and §350,000 in bullion, an average of $7 77 per ton. 
In 1860 these mines produced 12,154 tons and $113,530, or $9 34 per ton; in 
1S61, 21,576 tons and $173,810, or $8 05 per ton; in 1862, when the dam was 
carried away by the flood, nothing ; and in 1863, previous to June, 6,000 tons 
and $35,000, or $5 83 per ton. The total expense was $5 per ton for a portion 
of the time at least, the cost of transportation by car being 72 cents. In 1864 
the Pine Tree yielded $67,940. In December, 1863, when the ore paid $29 to 
the ton, the refuse tailings assayed $16 to the ton, showing a great waste. 
There is a large quantity of good ore now in sight in the mine. 

The particles of gold in the Pine Tree quartz are extremely fine, usually so 
small as to be invisible to the naked eye. As a consequence it is very difficult 
to catch the metal in the process of amalgamation, and Professor Ashburner, in 
a report made in May, 1864, said that 70 per cent, of the gold in the quartz 
worked in the Benton mills Avas lost, or, in other words, only 30 per cent, of it 
was saved. This fact was ascertained by ''a series of assays upon the taihngs 
which have been allowed to run to waste." 

In the same report he said, '' I think the Josephine vein, as it is called, is 
nothing more than a branch from the Pine Tree, and the two S3'stems of workings, 
as they have never been carried on in connection, have given rise to two mines." 

Dr. J. Adelberg made a report on the mining property of the Mariposa grant 
in August, 1860, and in it he said : 

These two veins run parallel on the whole, but sometimes a little diverf^ing, sometimes a 
little converging ; sometimes running together and forming two distinct divisions of one 
vein. They belong to distinct geological periods, the Pine Tree being earlier and the Jose- 
phine of more recent formation. The ores of both veins are very distinct, the older vein 
bearing, in those depths now laid open, mostly oxyds and carbonates, (among which the 
blue and green carbonate of copper is very characteristic,) and the Josephine, or more 
recently formed vein, bearing the iron and copper as sulphurets only. The eruption of gold- 
bearing quartz has formed here veins which are equalled in extent bj' no other known gold- 
bearing quartz vein. 

Messrs. Clarnett and AVakelee, who examined the Pine Tree and Josephine 
mines in May, 1863, expressed the opinion that they did not contain any con- 
siderable body of ore then in sight to pay by the modes of amalgamation in use 
at that time, and the only hope for making these mines ^' an active element of 
production instead of a consuming expense" lay in improvements in the system 
of working the ores. 

Josephine. — The Josephine mine is on a mountain side, 1,600 feet above the 
level of the Merced river. The vein runs northwest and southeast, and dips to 
the northeast. Professor Silliman says it is a contact deposit between serpentine 
and shale ; but Mr. Kelten, who has been a superintending miner in the Josephine 
for more than ten years, says that in some places there is green stone, and in 
others slate on both sides, and it is richer in the slate than the green stone. There 
is no gouge in the green stone. The lode varies in width from 5 to 30 
feet, averaging more than 10. In those places where the vein is small the 
quartz is mixed with slate. The mine has been worked through three tunnels, 



28 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tlie upper one being' 100 feet above, and tliO lower 180 feet below tlie middle 
tunnel or Black drift, as it is called. The drifts have been run 500 feet in the 
lode, and the depth of the workings perpendicularly is 520 feet. 

The pay-rock has heen found in seven chimneys, Avliicli are from 40 to 100 
feet in length horizontally, and are separated by barren streaks from 4 to G feet 
long in the drifts. The pay chutes dip 45° to the southeast; l)ut the dip is less 
regular on the under than on the upper side of the chute. The richest deposit 
is found along the foot wall, and a small streak of pay is found along the foot 
wall in the barren chutes. The Josephine ore has usually been worked with 
that from the Pine Tree in the Benton mill, so that separate accounts have not 
been kept of most of the workings. The Josei^hine vein is considered a branch 
of the mother quartz lode, from which it separates at the Josephine mine, running 
northwestward nearly parallel with the main vein. At a distance of half a mile 
from the fork they are about 3'00 feet apart. Although the mine is now lying 
idle, miners say that there is a large quantity of $20 rock in sight. 

The indig'o vein, so called because of the peculiar blue color of the rock, is 4 
feet wide, and 450 feet west of the Josephine mine. The vein stone is talcose, 
and in places is rich in gold. It is called India-rubber rock by the miners, and 
is difficixlt to break with the hammer, l)ut tears out well when blasted. The 
vein has not been opened, but a tunnel has been run throug'h it, and it has been 
prospected a little in spots on the surface. 

Makiposa. — The Mariposa mine is situated on the eastern border of the town 
of Mariposa, on the Mariposa lode, the direction of which is nearly east and Avest, 
the dip 51° south, and the width of the main vein from four to eight feet. Near 
the mill the vein forks, one prong- running westward in the line of the maine lode, 
and the other running* north of west. At a distance of 300 yards from the forks, 
the two prongs are not more than 60 Awards apart. Each fork is about 3 feet 
thick. The rock is a white ribbon quartz ; tlie walls are a black talcose slate. 
There is l)ut little gouge, and the quartz is so hard that no progress can be made 
without blasting. East of the fork the gold is in fine particles, and is evenly 
distributed through the pay chute, while west of the fork the gold is collected 
in rich pockets, whicli are separated from one another by large masses of very 
poor quartz. Tliese pockets contain almost invariably arseniurets of iron, accom- 
panied by pyrites. The presence of these minerals is considered a certain sign 
that a good deposit of gold is not far distant. One pocket paid $30,000, another 
$15,000, and numerous other sums, varying from $100 to $1,000. The great 
richness of the vein is proved by the facts that the decomposed quartz at the 
surface was worked or washed for a distance of half a mile, the ravines imme- 
diately below the lode were famous for their richness, and drifts have been run 
a quarter of a mile under ground. It is said before Fremont obtained posses- 
sion, squatters took $200,000 from the mine. The quartz taken out in 1864 
averaged $25 per ton ; but afterwards the average yield was only $11. Persons 
familiar with the mine say an abundance of rock might be obtained to yield 
$12 or $15. Before the sale of the grant to the Mariposa company the mine 
was leased to Mr. Barnett, who paid 10 per cent, of the gross yield, a very good 
share, and afterwards when he Avas told that he could not have the property on 
those terms he offered to pay 30 per cent, of the gross yield, and to give good 
bonds. His offer was rejected, and. the mine is now idle. Mr. Barnett Avorkcd 
the mine on a very economical plan. His stamps had Avooden stems ; he amal- 
gamated in arrastras, and his mortar Avas fed from a hopper or self-feeder. Little 
hand labor Avas done in the mill in the daytime, and none at all at night. Indeed, 
everybody left the mill at supper time, and it Avas allowed to run Avithout super- 
vision till morning. The quartz Avas taken out under Barnett's directions, Avho 
having spent many years at the place Avas thoroughly familiar Avith it; and before 
going to the mill, all the baiTcn pieces Avere rejected. It Avas supposed that the 
mine Avould pay better if it were Avorked on a larger scale, so the mill that had 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 29 

stood at tlie Green Gulcli mill of 40 stamps Avas moved to tlie Mariposa mine 
in 1864, in accordance with the recommendations of Professor Ashhurner. 

Professor Silliman, in a report made in May, 1SG4, said : 

I feel convinced that the Mariposa vein is, on the whole, the most remavkable auriferous 
vein yet developed ou the Mariposa estate, and if the half which is believed of it by those 
who know it best should prove true, it will alone almost sustain the estate. The mill now 
erecting in Mariposa creek is the same which has been removed from Green Gulch, where, 
as it proved, there was no further use for it. Mr. Ashburner havinf]^ examined and reported 
approvingly ou this removal, I have not felt it needful to re-examine the evidence, the decision 
undoubtedly being a wise one. The fault of the other mills (except the Princeton) of being 
set too low has been remedied here, and with a well-considered system of amalgamation, 
there can be no doubt that excellent results will be arrived at in working the mill in its new 
and well-choseu position, nor can there be any doubt that the mill will receive an ample 
supply of quartz to engage it fully in crushing. 

The gross yield of the mine in 1864 was SS4,948 ; but there was no profit, and 
among the intelligent miners in the neighborhood there is mnch doubt whether 
enongh pay quartz could be obtained to keep a 40-stamp mill going. 

Messrs. Wakelee and Ganiett in their report on the grant say : 

The Mariposa vein we examined more particularly, as it has been quite celebrated for the 
extraordinary richness of its pockets df massive gold. The vein consists of a main trunk 
and two branches. It is in the latter that these deposits have been found. They have not 
been worked upon any regular system, but have been much burrowed into by diil'erent par- 
ties in quest of these rich pockets. The quartz itself is almost entirely destitute of any trace 
of metal, and its value seems to consist entirely of these massive deposits. It is needless to 
add, perhaps, tbat from this peculiarity it furnishes a very uncertain basis for any extensive 
system of mining. The main trunk of this vein differs from its branches, and the quartz 
found in it is uniformly charged with the metal. The ores yield, according to the best infor- 
mation we could obtain, about §16 per ton. 

Gkeex Gttlch. — The Green Gulch mine, in the vicinity of the Princeton, 
has been explored by a shaft 200 feet deep, and l)y drifts running 400 feet 
horizontal, and the conclusion is that the deposits of auriferous quartz are not 
sufficiently near together to pay for working. The vein is about three feet thick, 
but the quartz is mixed in places with slate, which reduces the yield to a point 
so low that there is no margin for profit. Some rich bunches of rock have been 
found, and under the encouragement given by them a 40-stamp mill was 
erected, and new explorations were undertaken ; but the rich bunches were too 
far apart, and the mill was afterwards removed to the Mariposa mine. The yield 
of the Green Gulch mine in 1864 was $19,509. In December, 1863, while the 
rock was yielding $38 per ton, an assay of the tailings showed that they con- 
tained $6 50 per ton. 

Other Mixes ox the I^Iartposa Estate. — The Oso mine, half a mile from 
Bear valley, is in a ver^^ narrow vein of decomposed talcose matter, running 
across the slates. It was very rich near the eiu'face, and according to rumor the 
sum of 8400,000 was taken from a shaft 50 feet deep and 7 feet long on the vein. 
No work has been done at the place for years. 

The New Britain or Missouri mine is two miles northwest of the town of Mari- 
posa. The vein averages aliout two feet and a half thick, runs east and west, 
dips to the south, and can be traced on the surface by croppings for four or five 
miles. The vein stone is a soft white and yellow quartz, which breaks up like 
slaked lime when exposed to the air. The walls are of hard l)lack slate. The 
only pay chimney which has been Avorked dips to the east with an angle of 50°. 
The quartz in this chute has been taken out to a depth of 80 feet, and it con- 
tained a number of very rich pockets, one of which was taken out by Mr. Barnett, 
and yielded $52,000, at an expense of $5,000. In one day and a half he took 
out $9,000. Professor Silliman says it is a 'S-ery promising vein." 

The Mt. Ophu- mine is on the mother or Pine Tree lode ; has been w^orked 
extensively, and never rivalled the Princeton, Pine Tree, Josephine or Mariposa 
mine in the amount of production. The yield in 1864 Avaa $12,540. The Mt. 
Ophh mill has 28 stamps, now idle. 



30 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Mariposa Mills. — The Benton mills, built to work tlie quartz from tlie Pine 
Tree and Josepliine mines, stands in a deep canon on tlic Mercer river, by the 
water of wliicli they were driven ; but the dam which supplied the water was 
carried off by a flood, and the mills have been standing idle. The number of 
stamps is 64. 

The Bear Valley mill has 12 stamps. At this mill the Lundgren pulverizer 
and the Ryerson amalgamator are now being used. 

The Lundgren ^^ulverizer is a barrel live feet in diameter and three feet in 
length, made of boiler iron three-eighths of an inch thick, heavily riveted. 
Inside, the baiTel is shod with iron shoes an inch thick. A door a foot wide 
and two feet long is placed lengthwise on the side of the barrel. There are two 
of these barrels at the Bear Valley mill, and the cost of the two with their gear- 
ing was $2,300 ; but if many were demanded they could no doubt be made for 
$1,000 each. The barrels revolve horizontally, making 24 revolutions per 
minute, and requiring a six-horse power engine for two of them. A charge 
is 800 pounds of quartz and 2,400 pounds of ounce musket balls made of chilled 
iron. The quartz, previous to going into the barrel, is crushed to about the size 
of grains of wheat, and after being in the liaiTcl one hour comes out an impal- 
pable powder, as fine as the finest flour. The powder is so fine that if it were 
pounded dry in the open air much of it wo\ild float away. The thoroughness of 
the pulverization is claimed to be the great advantage of this machine. 
, The quartz powder is transferred from the barrel into the Ryerson amalga- 
mator, an upright barrel, made of strong boiler iron, with a bottom shaped like 
an inverted cone, round which winds a pipe pierced with a number of little holes. 
The barrel being charged and closed, superheated steam is thrown in and then 
quicksilver, which is converted into vapor and made to pervade the whole mass. 
A cold bath condenses the quicksilver, and the charge is discharged into a shak- 
ing table or settler. 

The amount worked daily by these processes is nine tons of Josephine ore, and 
the yield varies from $39 to $173 per ton, with an average of $45, at an expense 
of $6 50 per ton. The rock thus worked is taken without selection from the pay 
chimney, and the body of ore now in sight, and presumed to be of the same quality, 
is 280 feet high, 45 feet wide longitudinally on the same vein, and 3 feet thick — 
an amoimt equivalent to 940 tons. It is presumed that the body of the quartz 
of that quality is much more extensive, both horizontally and vertically, than 
the present shafts have gone. 

The mills of the Mariposa estate are the Benton, 64 stamps; the Mariposa, 28 
stamps; the Mount Ophu', 28 stamps; the Princeton, 24 stamps, and the Bear 
valle}', 12 stamps — making 156 stamps in all. 

^he yield of the estate was $474,000 in 1860; $642,000 in 1861; $522,000 
in 1862^; $385,000 (with $50,000 net per month) in the first five months of 1863 ; 
$481,832 in 1864; and $230,000 in 1865. During the first half of 1807 the 
mines and mills all stood idle ; but of late a little work has been done with the 
Ryerson and Lundgren processes. 

The Stockton creek mill, used by Mr. Barnett for working the quartz of the 
Mariposa mine while he was lessee, contains ten stamps, with square wooden 
stems and wooden collars, driven by water and a wooden wheel. There was &, 
self-feeder or hopper to supply the batteries with quartz, and the pulp, after leav- 
ing the mortar, was ground in an arrastra. The mill is a mile east of Mariposa, 
and has been idle for two years. 

Hunter's Valley, OaJcs and JRccsc. — The Oaks and Reese mine, called also 
the Potts, is 3,000 feet long, in Hunter's valley, 16 miles northwest of the 
county seat. The claim includes two veins, 1,200 feet on one which runs north- 
east and southwest and dips to the southeast at an angle of 65°, and 1,600 feet 
on another which runs northeast and southwest. The former is one of a series 
of parallel veins ; the latter is knowai as the Blue Lead, and it is remarkable, 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 31 

because the numerous cross leads running at right angles are found only south 
of it, and appear to be cut off by it. The Blue Lead is nearly vertical, from 
12 to 30 inches wide, yields 645 tg the ton, and has been opened to a depth 
of 165 feet and a length of 150 feet. The other vein is six feet wide, yields 
$20 to the ton, has been opened to a depth of 165 feet, and to a length of 50 
feet. The mine has been worked with a four-stamp mill, but a new twelve-stamp 
mill has been erected, and it began to run on the 7th of October. The copper 
aprons below the battery are plated with silver, Avith which mercury forms an 
amalgam more readily than with copper, and the apron Avill be in the highest 
state of efficiency immediately, Avhereas several weeks' time would be required if 
the surface were of copper. The plating is done by galvanism and cost $5 per 
square foot. Bans and Guiod's pans are used for grinding. The mill is driven 
by steam, and also the hoisting apparatus. The quartz is let down from the 
mouth of the mine to the mill in a tramway, and the loaded cars as they go down 
pull up the empty ones. The transportation does not cost more than $1 50 per 
day. The yield of the mine has been $30,000. A patent has been applied for. 

The Floyd mine on one of the southern spurs of the Blue Lead has paid well, 
but now produces nothing. 

The same remark applies to the Carson mine, which has a five-stamp mill 
standing idle. 

Epperso:n'. — The Epperson mine on Bear creek, sis miles east of Coulterville, 
is on a vein which runs east and west and dips to the north. There is a shaft 
60 feet deep, and a drift 20 feet long has been run on the lode. About 200 tons- 
have been worked, and the yield was from $9 to 613 per ton. There is a nine- 
stamp mill which, with the mine, is standing idle. 

Black. — The Black mine is sixteen miles eastward fi-om Coulterville, on the 
Blue Lead, Avhich runs east and west and dips to the south. The hanging wall 
is mountain limestone and the foot wall yellow slate, and the vein stone contains 
marble. The average yield is about 640 per ton, or was for all the work done. 
The mine has been standing idle now for several years on account of the water, 
which at times has risen nearly to the surface. A shaft was sunk to a de^jth of 
170 feet. There is no mill; all the crushing was done with an arrastra, 

Feegfso^t. — The Ferguson mine, 25 miles eastward from Coulterville, has 
been worked five or six years. The ore yields from 625 to 6100 per ton, and 
is worked in a ten-stamp mill driven by water. . 

Louisiana. — The Louisiana mine, ten miles eastward from Coulterville, is 
3,600 feet long, on a vein that runs northwest and southeast, dips to the north- 
east, and has a width varying from 2 to 16 feet. The quartz contains sulphurets 
of iron, zinc and lead. The free gold amounts to 66 or 68 per ton. The vein 
has been opened to a depth of 140 feet and a length of 130 feet by drifts from 
the bottom of the main shaft; but there are a number of shafts 15 or 20 feet 
deep, and gold has been found in all of them. The ore is easily extracted, but 
the slate walls require much timber to support them. Along the foot wall there 
is a streak of soft yellow sandstone six or eight inches thick. The mine makes 
much water, and at the first of June the pump hoisted 37,000 gallons daily. 
There is a 10-stamp mill which has lain idle for several years, but has lately 
eommenced to run again. 

Flann^igak. — The Flannigan mine, 10 miles eastward from Coulterville, was 
discovered in July, 1861, near the summit of a ridge, at an elevation of about 
3,000 feet above the sea. A miner working a placer claim in a guUey found a 
rich spot, where he picked up, among other pieces, a nugget that weighed an 
ounce and a boulder as large as a man's head containing 687. He searched for 
a quartz vein and found this one. It runs north and south, cuts across the slates, 
dips to the west, and is five feet wide. There are smooth slate walls on both 
sides, and there is a putty gouge three inches thick. All the rock so far found 
•s rich enough to pay, and the average yield is 635. The mine has been worked 



32 RESOTTRCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

with an avrastra for six yciU'S, but there are now 500 tons of ore stacked up at 
the mouth of tlie tunnel, and preparations are bein*^ made for the erection of a 
ten-stamp milL The quartz is taken out through a cross tunnel 175 feet long-, 
and from that drifts have been run 225 feet on the vein, and a shaft has been 
sunk 50 feet. A horse is found in one part of the lode. The quartz is white, 
and nnich of it slakes when exposed to the air. The crushing has been done 
heretofore by two arrastras, and the total expense per ton has been less than $5. 
The cost of crushing and amalgamating in the arrastra is estimated at $3 50 per 
ton, and of extraction at 81. 

CowAKD. — The Coward mine, 12 miles eastward from Coulterville, was 
located in 1858, and has been worked constantly since. The first owner, a Mr. 
Funk, fell from the wheel the day the mill started, and was killed by the fall. 
H. Gr. Coward is the present owner. The vein runs east and west, dips to the 
north at an angle of 45°, and is four feet wide in the middle of the pay chlmneN' s, 
which become narrower gradually in each direction horizontally as they pinch 
out. These chimneys are two in nvnnber, each about 100 feet long, and they dip 
to the east at an angle of 40°. The width is very regular in going down Avitli the 
dip. They had lieen worked to a depth of 170 feet. The walls are of smooth 
black slate, and there is a black putty gouge. Most of the gold is found near 
one wall or the other, and sometimes on both, but in places where a horse is 
found in the vein the gold is all confined to one side. The average yield is, and 
has been constantl}-, about $40 per ton. The quartz contains little pyrites, and 
the tailings have never been assayed. There is, or was in May, a five-stamp 
mill, which was to be abandoned, and a new ten-stamp mill was to be erected 
on tlie north fork of the Mercede, one mile from the mine. The dam and flume 
were to cost $G00, and the wagon road $1,000. Ten or 12 men were employed. 

Calico. — The Calico mine, on the same lode as the Cherokee, has been 
opened l)y a tunnel 160 feet long, and a drift of 35 feet in pay rock estimated 
to yield $20 per ton. No mill has been erected, nor has any of the rock been 
crushed. 

Compro:mise. — The Compromise mine, on a small vein near the Goodwin, was 
worked for two years with a loss. 

Maeble Spki^^g. — The Marble Spring mine, 16 miles eastward from 
Coulterville, was discovered in 1851, and a five-stamp mill was erected there. 
The first owner found it unprofitable, and he sold to a gentleman who kept it 
going for seven or eight years, part of the time at a profit, and he sold to others 
who spent 615,000 in experiments and lost money, though the rock yielded $25 
per ton. The mine is now the property of II. G. Coward and others who have 
lately reopened it. The vein is three feet thick, runs northwest and southeast, 
and dips to the east. The pay chimney dips to the southeast. The lode con- 
tains pockets in Avhich the gold is very coarse, and is distributed in beautiful 
threads through a compact bluish quartz, making together the finest material for 
'• quartz jewelry" in the State. The main tunnel is 600 feet long. The old mill 
has been moved away. The mine is at a high elevation, near the summit of a 
mountain. 

Chekokee. — The Cherokee mine, near the Goodwin, was discovered by a 
Cherokee named Rogers, in 1857, and was very rich at the surface. Some of 
the gold was coarse enough to l)e pounded out in a hand mortar. The rock 
worked in arrastras averaged $100 per ton. In 1859 a steam mill with eight, 
stamps and two arrastras Avas erected, and the rock yielded S35 per ton for about 
a year, and then Avork stopped. The mill Avas sold at sherifi"'s sale and moved 
aAvay, and nothing has been done at the place since. The deepest Avorkings 
were through a tunnel 400 feet long, and another loAver tunnel Avas commenced, but 
the mine Avas, abandoned before it reached the lode. As the Avorkmen Avho AA^ero 
employed haA^e all left it is diflicult to get any accurate information ; but some 
miners in the neighborhood say that the mine Avas Avorked in a careless manner j 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 33 

that the proprietors squandered their money, and that although there was a horse 
in the lowest Avorkings, the completion of the lower tunnel would in all proba- 
bility have struck the lode below the horse. The vein averages two feet wide, 
runs east and Avest and dips to the north. The pay chimneys dip to the east. 

SniMER. — The Shimer mine, 10 miles east of Coulterville, was discovered 
in 1858 by a miner who, while digging a ditch for placer mining, found some 
rich boulders of quartz, and on searching he found the lode. In a few days he 
took out enough gold to pay for several arrastras, with which the mine was 
worked for a year and a half, the rock yielding from $150 to $500 per ton. 
Rumor says that the total yield in this time was $200,000, three-fourths of it net 
profit. lie then erected a steam mill, with two stamps and two arrastras ; but 
the Avatcr became troublesome, and for five years the mine has been idle, and 
for two years before the work was irregular. The mine was opened by a cross 
tunnel, which, after running 400 feet, struck the lode 140 feet from the surface, 
and a shaft was sunk 40 feet below the tunnel. The failure of the mine is 
attributed by some persons in the neighborhood exclusively to bad management. 
It is said that the last rock crushed yielded $60 per ton, and there was more of 
it in sight. Tlierc were five partners, most of whom Avere spendthrifts, and 
shortly before their failm'e they took a trip to Sonora and spent $4,000 in one 
debauch. Those Avho had not squandered their money had sent it aAvay, and 
when the water came in they could not afford to buy a pump nor to cut a deeper 
tunnel. It is said that there is a large deposit of good pay quartz, 40 feet deep 
and 80 feet long, under the drift, on a level Avith the tunnel. 

The vein is from 8 inches to 2^ l"eet in width, Avith slate Avails. There are 
two pay chutes, Avhich Avere worked to a depth of IGO feet and for a horizontal 
distance of 150 feet. One account says that the last AA'orkings Avere in a jilaco 
where the vein split, and the miners Avere in the poorer branch. It is reported 
that a rich cross vein AA'as found, but that the hired miner Avho found it concealed 
the fact in the hope that he Avould some day get possession. About $2,000 
liaA^e been spent on roads to reach the mine and mill. 

GoODWiy. — The Goodwin mine, 11 miles eastAvard from CoultcrA-ille, Avas 
discovered in 1856. It was Avorked Avith arrastras for three years, and then 
for three years more Avith an eight-stamp mill, Avhich last paid $50,000 profit, 
some of the rock yielding $100 per ton. The mine and mill lay idle for four 
years, and under foreclosure of a mortgage passed into the hands of a creditor, 
who attempted in vain for several years to sell for $1,500, undertook to Avorkthe 
mine in despair, and almost immediately found a good supply of rock, averaging 
$50 per ton. The vein runs east and Avest, and dips to the south. The aver- 
age thickness is three feet, but in places the lode pinches out. The quartz is a 
ribbon rock, and all of it pays for Avorking. It is found in chimneys, Avhich dip 
to the eastAA^ard, Avith an inclination of 70° to the horizon on the upper side, but 
on the loAver side the dip is irregular, the chutes groAving longer, horizontally,, 
as they go doAvn. Three pay chimneys have been AA'orked so far, and one of 
them has pinched out in going down. Both Avails arc of slate, and there is a 
black putty gouge a foot thick. A cross tunnel 550 feet long strikes the vein 
400 feet below the smface, and the lode might be struck 200 feet loAver by a 
tunnel 600 feet long. The present proprietor is about to put in a pump and 
hoisting Avorks. The mill has eight Avooden-stem stamps, and is driven by 
water from the north fork of the Mercede. The flume is half a mile long, and, 
with the dam, cost $1,000. The iiiouth of the mine is two miles from the mill,, 
to which the ore is hauled on sleds. 

Bell & McGeew. — The Bell & McGrew mine is a mile AA-est of Coul- 
ter\dlle, on the Malvina lode. Several pockets, yielding h^m $100 to $1,000, 
liaA^e been found, and a mill AA'ith five stamps AA'as built on it, but it failed to- 
pay, and is noAV idle. 
3 



34 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

IMcKekzie. — The McKenzio mine, adjoining^ lias produced some rock that 
yielded 620 per ton, but the miners were driven out by watci, and the owners, 
findini^ the}^ could do nothing without a steam pump, sold their five-stamp mill 
to Bell & McGrew and stopped work. Portion of the mine has caved in. 

HiDELT & CUNXIXGHAM. — The mine of Ilidely & Cunningham, on the 
Malvina vein, two miles west of Coulterville, contains a deposit of auriferous 
talcose slate 15 feet wide, without walls, and some of it prospects very well. 
There is a fom'-stamp mill, Avhich was running in May. 

Mart Haerisok. — The Mary Harrison mine, about two miles soutlieast- 
ward from Coulterville, is situated on a spur from the mother lode. This spur 
vein is from 3 to 20 feet thick, and the quartz contains talcose slate seams 
which usually are parallel with the walls, and the seams, or sides of them, con- 
tain the most pay. The mine has been Avorked by an incline 240 feet deep, 
and a pay chimney 200 feet long, horizontallj", has been worked out to a depth 
of 150 feet. There is no gouge, and the galleries are driven in the slate on the 
hanging wall side. 

The ]\Iary Hanison Company have a claim on the IMahdna vein, a mile and 
a half distant, and they have worked it to a depth of 440 feet from the crop- 
pings, and have run 330 feet on the lode. Access is obtained through a cross 
tunnel. There is black talcose slate on both sides of the vein, which is parallel 
Avith the mother lode, and has been traced 4 miles. The gold-bearing portion 
of the rock is a hard ribbon quartz, near the Avails ; while in the middle there 
is soft, shelly, Avhite, barren quartz. The pay chute is 150 feet long, horizon- 
tally, and it (hps 60° to the southeast on the upper side ; the loAver side being 
less regular. There are tAvo mills; one of 35 stamps, the other 15, and the 
former Avas about to start at the end of May. 

Croavn Lead. — Immediately noith of the Mercede riA^er, in the line of the 
Mother lode, is the claim of the CroAvn Lead Company, AAdiich, 10,500 feet in all, 
is on the Mother, Adelaide, and Medas veins. The Adelaide A^ein has supplied 
1,800 tons, yielding $7 per ton, and this ought to have yielded a profit; but it 
did not, and the Avork stopped. The general opinion in the neighborhood is 
that the mine has an immense quantity of good pay rock, but that it has not been 
properly managed. The claim extends from the riA'er OA'cr a steep hill 2,000 feet 
high, SO that by means of tunnels all the rock could, be run out to that depth 
vithout hoisting. 

The mill on the bank of the Mercede has 20 stamps, and Avas built in 1864, 
at an expense of $35,000. The dam cost $30,000, but Avas bought by the 
CroAAii Lead Company for $12,000. It is noAV in excellent condition. The 
loads on the claim cost $9,000. Both mine and mill are idle. The mill is pro- 
Anded Avith Hepbm-n & Peterson's pans. 

Adjoining the claim of the CroAA-n Lead, or on the same ground, is a claim 
taken up for a copper mine by the Tone Company, Avhich spent $22,000 there 
and got no return. 

HiTES Cove. — Hites Cove mine is 30 miles northeast from Mariposa, on 
a vein Avhich runs northAvest and southeast, and is very irregular in thickness, 
the thickest part being eight feet. The quartz is a ribbon rock, Avith seams of 
black matter, Avhich sticks in the skin, so that the Avorkmen in the mine get a 
very sooty look. All the quartz pays very evenly, and no specinrens are found. 
The average yield is about $150 per ton. The mine has been worked five years 
steadily, and the present supply of quartz is obtained from a depth of 300 feet. 
Connected Avith the mine is a 10-stamp Avater mill, and all the sands, after passing 
over copper-plate, are run through arrastras. 

BciDfrEroRT. — The Bridgeport mine, just outside of the line of the Mariposa 
grant, lias produced some good ore; but the thickness of the vein (from six 
inches to four feet) is very irregular, and so is the quality of the rock. The walls 
are granite ; the mill has eight stamps. Both mine and mill are idle. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 35 

Penox Blaxco. — The Penon Blanco mine, 6,000 feet long, two miles nortli- 
ward from Ooulterville, takes in nearly the wliole of the prominent Penon Blanco 
liill. It is being explored by a tmmel which, entering the hill on the sonth side, 
strikes the lode 175 feet from the mouth a*nd 100 feet below the CToppings. 
Another tunnel entering the hill on the northwest side is in 2S5 feet, but has not 
reached the vein. Two shafts are also being sunk 2,000 feet apart. The south 
shaft is 25 feet deep in a pay chimney, which yields rock four feet in thickness, 
averaging $10 per ton. The horizontal length of this chimney is not ascertained, 
but open cuts on the croppings 200 feet distant are in the same kind of rock, and 
probably in the same chimney. The north shaft has not struck the vein, but the 
croppings near this shaft contain about two feet of rock that yields $12 per ton. 
The first application for a patent under the act of 1866 was made for this mine. 



SECTION IV. 

TUOLUMNE COUNTY. 

Tuolumne county extends from the Stanislaus river on the north to the divide 
between the Tuolumne and ]\Iercede on the south, and from the summit of the 
SieiTa to the low foot hills near the plains. Nearly all the mines and population 
are in the western half of the county, below the level of 2,000 feet above the sea. 

The placer mines have nearly all been quite shallow, and thej^ are now 
exhausted in many places. There never have been any large and profitable 
hydraulic claims in the count}', although there are some gravel ridges above Big 
Oak Flat, and others near Cherokee that may prove valuable for hydraulic mining. 
One of the chief mining features is table mountain, which follows the Stanislaus 
river from Columbia to Knight's Fen.y, and covers a rich auriferous channel thaV 
is worked through tunnels. 

This mountain has yielded about $2,000,000, but at a cost of $3,000,000 
Another remarkable feature of the county is the limestone belt, which crosses 
the country, through Garrote No. 2, Kincaid Flat, Shaw's Flat, Springfield, and 
Columl)ia. This limestone, instead of having a smooth solid surface, appears to 
be broken into water- worn boulders, and rich auriferous gravel is found down to 
a great depth in the naiTow cre\nces between them. In this county, too, the 
mother lode is more strongly marked ; more distinctly traceable for a considerable 
distance, and worked in more mines than in any other county. Columbia is notable 
for having produced more large nuggets tlian any other district in the State, and 
also for the high fineness of its dust. Bald mountain, near Sonora, has had an 
unsurpassed cluster of rich pocket lodes, and the Soulsby district has some of 
the richest granite mines of the State. The county has further extensive and 
valuable beds of plumbago and some fine white marble suitable for statuary, but 
its extent is not yet proved. 

Jluch work is being done in prospecting quartz veins, but the advance in lode 
mining is not equivalent to the decline in placers, and the county has lost about 
200 voters annually for six or eight years. 

The State and county taxes together are $4 88 on every hundred dollars, or 
nearly five per cent., and in addition to that there is in Sonora a city tax of one 
per cent. 

The placer mining portion of the county is in a district of hills, neither very 
high nor very steep, and consequently it is pretty well suited, so far as grade is 
concerned, for roads and for tillage ; but the soil is not strong and Avater is dear. 
Grain does not yield large crops, ard the supply of fruit far exceeds the home 
demand, but transportation is so dear that it cannot be taken away fresh Avith a 
profit. Large quantities are dried, and in 1866 300 tons of dried peaches 



EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



were shipped from Tuolumne. Casks and freight are so dear that wine making 
yields no profit, and the brandy tax prevents the conversion of the grapes into 
braudv, and man}- of the vineyards and orchards are not cultivated, and no 
new vineyards are being planted. ' The general appearance of the ranches does 
not indicate prosperity.* 

During the first half of 1867 not less than a thousand Chinamen left the 
county, more than 300 having gone from Columbia and vicinity, and as many 
more from Chinese Camp. 

According to observations made by Doctor Sncll in the rainy season of 
1861-62, 121 inches of rain fell at Sonora; in that of 1864- 6.'), 20 inches; in 
that of 1865-66, 35 inches; and in that of 1866-'67, 50 inches. 

The following mean thermometrical observations are also taken from his books, 
the degrees being Fahrenheit's : 



1858.— October .. 

November 

December 
1859. — January.. 

February . 

March 




G P. M. 



5fio 

52 

44 

48 

44 

68 



Columbia. — Columbia, situated where the Table Mountain channel crossed 
the limestone belt, and where the volcanic material had been deroded, having the 
rich auriferous deposit near the surface, was for a long time the largest and the 
busiest town in the southern mines. The site was in a beautiful vale, and the 
town was built up in very neat style, but the placers of the vicinity are approachr 
ing exhaustion, business has declined, and many of the lots have been mined 
out, leaving the large limestone boulders lying naked, barren and cheerless. As 
the population has declined, houses have lost their value, and dwellings can be 
purchased for one-tenth their cost. In many cases miners have purchased houses, 
even brick stores, for the purpose of tearing them down and washing away the dirt 
of the lots ; and this system is still in progress, continually reducing the number of 
houses, and the area of soil and level ground suitable for occupation. Most of 
the rich placer claims are in a basin, which has never been drained, and conse- 
quently there is a large mass of auriferous dirt that may be worked in the future 
if drainage is supplied. The Stanislaus river is two miles off, and by starting 
from a ravine that i)uts into the river a tunnel could be run 400 feet under the 
town with the length of a mile and a half. The expense, however, would bo 
very great, and the profit uncertain, so nobody speaks seriously of the project. 
At the deeper claims in Columbia, the dirt is hoisted from the bottom to a dump 
box placed so high that there is fall enough fi-om it to carry away the refuse dkt 

*NoTE. — Referring to the advantages to be derived from the construction of the proposed 
Stockton and Copperopolis raih-oad, and the impetus that would be given to the industry of 
the interior counties by this enterprise, Mr. William S. Watson, the intelligent engineer, 
says : 

"The proposed road will not touch Tuolumne county, but for all practical purposes will 
command its trade and travel, Copperopolis being 15 miles from Sonora, and from Knight's 
Ferry it is about two miles to the west line of the county. The sectional area of Tuokmine 
is 1,430 square miles. The character of the country is of course mountainous, forming spurs 
of the main ridges of the Sierra Nevada, descending into the valley to the west. The popu- 
lation in 1860 was 16,229 ; assessed valuation in 1865, $1,536,258. The present freights are 



ber, and ores, not less than 1,320; total, 8,270 tons." 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 37 

througli sluices. The water is thrown upon the dirt in these dump boxes through 
h^'draulic pipes, a style of washing used in very few places in the State. 

From 1853 to 1857 Columbia shipped $100,000 weekl}^; now the shipment 
is from $40,000 to $50,000 per month, and there is a steady decrease. 

The following are the principal claims in the Columbia basin : 

The Columbia Boys' claim, 500 by 100 feet, has been worked regularly since 
1850. Previous to 1853 it paid 620' per day ; from 1853 to 1857 $7 50 per day, 
and since 1857 $3 per day. The dirt is hoisted by a wooden wheel. Five men 
are employed in the claim now. 

The Tiger claim, 400 by 130 feet, was opened in 1849, but did not pay much 
for the first six j-ears. Between 1855 and 1858, however, it was very profitable, 
and from 1863 to 1865 it paid still better than before. In 1863 the yield was 
from 8100 to $600 per week to the man. It has not been paying expenses for 
the last two years. An iron wheel is used for hoisting. In the bottom of this 
claim is a hole leading into a subterranean channel which has its outlet below 
Jamestown, eight miles distant. On one occasion 2,500 inches of water ran 
down the hole for Aveeks ; and the same water escaped at the outlet, where the 
stream was governed as to its size and color by the supply at Columbia. A 
similar hole is found in a claim at Knaj^p's ranch. Men have climbed down 150 
feet, and gone 100 feet further with ropes to the bottom, where there is a stream 
4 feet wide and 12 feet deep, with a slow cm-rent and clear water, no matter 
how muddy the streams may be on the surface. It is supposed that the outlet 
is at Springfield or Gold Springs. 

Tlie Cascade claim, 300 by 150 feet, has paid well for short periods, but has 
not yielded more on an average than $2 50 per day to the man. Five men are 
employed, and a hydraulic Avheel is used for hoisting. 

The Mclnroe claim, 300 by 100 feet, paid well in early days, but does not 
yield more than $2 50 per day now to the man. Three men are employed in 
the claim. The hoisting is done by a whim. 

The Burns claim, 400 by 200 feet, paid $10 per day to the hand from 1853 
to 1857, and averaged $100 per month to the hand since 1857. Five men are 
employed, and an overshot wheel is used for hoisting. 

The Main claim, 300 by 200 feet, has paid high at times, but does not yield 
more than $2 per day to the six men employed. The hoisting is done by an 
ii'on hydraulic wheel. 

The Millington claim, 300 by 100 feet, washes in a ground sluice, and has 
paid $20 per week over expenses. Four men are employed. 

Iv]S"APp's Ranch. — Adjoining Columbia on the east is Knapp's ranch, of which 
about five acres have 'keen washed, yielding $40,000 per acre or $200,000 in all. 
The bed rock here is limestone, but the boulders are large, and tlie miners 
can wash between them much more conveniently than among the smaller boulderB 
of Columbia. 

The following claims are on Knapp's ranch : 

The Sullivan claim, 200 by 100 feet, is fifty feet deep, and is worked by a 
hyfhaulic stream tlirowii against the bank. Two men work the claim, and they 
make together about $5 per day. 

The Peabody and Arnold claim, 200 by 100 feet, is also worked by a hydrau- 
lic stream against the bank, which is 50 feet high. No men are engaged in 
it, and they have at times got very good pay. 

The German claim, 200 by 100 feet, has paid tolerably well. 

The Grant claim, 200 by 100 feet, commenced working only a short time since. 

The Hunt claim, 500 by 500 feet, is remarkably rich. It paid $25,000 in one 
summer. It employs six men, hoists by hydraulic wheel, and washes in a dump 
box. 

The Dutch Bill claim, 200 by 100 feet, was opened in 1860, and has at times 



38 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

paid $1,000 per inontli. It yields $3 per day cacli now to two men. The dirt 
is Avaslied on the ground. 

Sawmill Flat. — The following claims are at Sawmill Flat : 
The Foley claim, 200 feet square, was opened in 1850, and has never paid 
more than moderate wages. Four men are employed, and there is a hydraulic 
wheel for hoisting. 

The Dry den claim, 400 by 100 feet, washes in a ground sluice and pays well. 
It has lately yielded $2,500 to the man in a season. Five men are employed 
Shaw's Flat. — Shaw's Flat and Springfield are on the limestone belt, bu 
the deposit of gravel was shallow, and it has nearly all been washed away. At 
Springfield there are two large springs from which the to^\m took its name ; and 
to these miners brought the dirt in carts in 1850 and 1851, and washed out from 
810 to $20 per day. As many as 150 carts were running at one time. There 
were single cart-loads that paid as much as $1,000. The ground was covered 
with a heavy growth of large pine timber, which has now all disappeared, and 
little remains save the rugged limestone. Springfield at one time had GOO voters, 
and now it has not one-tenth of that number. 

At Sawmill Flat, near Columbia, the dirt is hoisted l»y wheel into a dump box 
and there washed. The diggings here Avill last for a long time. 
At Brown's Flat they wash in the same manner. 
At Yankee Hill there are some rich hydraulic claims. 

Sonoea. — Sonora is situated on the slate, just below the limestone, and was 
wonderfully rich in early days, but is now nearly exhausted. The gold shipped 
nearly all came from placers previous to 1858 ; now it is about equally divided 
between quartz and placers. The amount shipped in May, 18G5, was $80,000; 
in Jmie, $84,000 ; in July, $95,000 ; in August, $102,000 ; in September, $91,000. 
Big Oak Flat. — Big Oak Flat is on a granite bed rock, and the gravel on 
it was from 2 to 20 feet deep. Ditch water was not brought in until 1859, and 
in the next year it saw its best days. It is now pretty well worked out. 

KixcAiD Flat. — Kincaid Flat, four miles east-southeast of Sonora, 150 feet 
above the level of Sullivan's creek, on the limestone belt, Avas formerly a basin 
of 200 acres; but it has been worked continuously since 1850, The deepest 
Avorkings are 75 feet beloAV the original surface, but the bottom has not yet been 
reached on account of the abundance of Avater and lack of drainage. The richest 
pay has been found near the water-level. One claim 50 feet square paid $100,000, 
and it is estimated that the total yield of the flat has not been less than $2,000,000. 
There is a considerable area of rich ground that cannot be Avashed until some 
artificial drainage is supplied, and it has been estimated that by making an open 
cut 500 feet long and a tunnel 1,000 feet, at a total cost of $12,000, 75 acres 
might be Avorked. In addition to the cutting of the tunnel, the flume Avould be 
expensive, and a company has been formed Avith a capital stock of $30,000 to 
undertake the Avork. 

Jamestoavn. — Jamestown, on the bank of Wood's creek, Avas built up by 
rich and shallow placers in its neighborhood; but these are noAV nearly exhausted, 
and the town has become a little village. It is, however, situated near the 
northern lode, and it will, probably, Avith the development of quartz mining, 
recover its prosperity. 

Other Towns. — Algerine, a mile and a half north of the Tuolumne river, 
and Avest of the main limestone belt, once had 800 voters, but is noAV reduced to 
a fcAV score, the placers on Avhich it depended being nearly exhausted. 

Cherokee and Somerville, about eight miles east of Sonora, are on the granite 
and they depend mainly on quartz mines for their support. 

Chinese Camp and Montezuma are placer mining towns near the western border 
of the county. 

Table J^Iountaln". — One of the most remarkable features of Tuolumne 
county is Table mountain, Avhich attracts attention from remote distances by its 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 39 

black, bare, level surface, extending across the landscape like a gigantic wall. 
Examined closely, it appears to be a mountain capped with basalt, a quarter o-f 
a mile wide and 40 miles long. It poured out of a volcano near Silver moun- 
tain, in Alpine county, and took the same general course as the present Stanis- 
laus river, which has cut across it in various places. There is a fork in the 
basaltic stream, 14 miles above Columbia. The average height above the 
adjacent ground in Tuolumne coimty is from 500 to 800 feet on the northern side, 
and from 200 to 500 on the southern. The adjacent earth has been washed away 
to a greater depth near the line of the mountain along its northern base, and for 
that reason nearly all the tunnels run in on the northern side. 

The main strata of the mountain, commencing at the top, are : basalt, which 
is in most places 140 feet deep ; under that is a stratum of volcanic sand 100 
feet; then pipe clay and sand, 50 feet; then coarse gravel, 20 feet; then pay 
gravel, 5 feet ; then bed rock. These strata vary greatly in thickness, however, 
in different places; there are spots where the pipe clay is 100 feet deep; but the 
above figures are given as an average. 

The pay gravel is found in two places ; there arc really two channels, and 
whether they were the beds of two different streams or two beds of the same 
stream, occupied at different times, is not clearly determined, although the latter 
supposition is the more probable. The channels are not found under the mid- 
dle of the mountain at every point ; there are places where one of the channels 
is not covered by the basalt at all, and the other is only under the edge of it.* 

In a claim near Whimtown a tree standing erect 100 feet high was found in 
the pipe clay, and it looked as if it had never been moved from the position in 
which it grew ; but it was all charred, though the basalt was a hundred yards 
distant. 

Table moimtain has been an unfortunate locality for muiers. It is estimated 
that at least 81,000,000 more have been put into the mountain, counting the 
regular wages, than were ever taken out. Nine-tenths of the miners who under- 
took to work claims there were the losers. There was enough gold to pay well, 
but the miners did not know how to get it. They worked in companies, and 
many of the members were shirks and idlers. They had no experience in this 
kind of mining, and did not know how to manage so as to do the most execution 
with the least labor. They guessed at the level of the channel, and started their 
tunnels too high, so that they could not drain their ground, and either had great 
expenses for pumping or had to cut new tunnels. The old channel, when first 
discovered, was extremely rich, and it was presumed that the possession of a 
claim anywhere on the mountain was equivalent to a fortune ; so no economy 
was used. Two companies side by side might have united to cut one tunnel, 
but, instead of that, each made its run. But the outsiders who did not get 
claims when the mountain was first taken up, in claims 300 feet in length, run- 
ning across the channel, held a meeting and resolved that those claims were too 

* Mr. J. Arthur Phillips says, in his recent work on the mining and metallurgy of gold 
and silver: " The summit of this elevation is occupied by a thick bed of basalt, of a very 
dark color and great density of texture, which is occasionally distinctly columnar, and ap- 
pears to have been poured out in one continuous flow. This, in the neighborhood of Souora, 
is from 140 to 150 feet in thickness, and its width near the entrance of the Buckeye tunnel 
is about 1,700 feet. Beneath this capping of basaltic lava is a heavy deposit of detrital mat- 
ter distinctly stratified in almost horizontal beds, but with a slight inclination from either side 
side towards the centre of the mass. These sedimentary beds chiefly consist of a rather fine- 
grained sandstone, which rapidly disintegrates on exposure to the atmosphere. luterstratified 
with this sandstone, and more particularly in the proximate vicinity of the bed-rock, are clays 
and fine argillaceous shales, frequently nearly white and often beautifully laminated. With 
these are associated beds made up of coarse grain, strongly cohering together, forming tho 
cement of .the mines ; and at the bottom is found the pay gravel, exactly like that seen in tho 
bed of an ordinary river. The entire thickness of this detrital mass at its greatest depth is at 
least two hundred feet. This thickness, however, diminishes towards the extremities of the 
deposit, where the edges of the basin formed by the rim-rock gradually rise." (Pp. 43, 44.) 



40 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

large^ and no man should hold move than 100 feet square. These jumpers, as 
they were called, far outnumljered the original locators, and they took up a largo 
part of the mountain, held their own for a long time, and spent large sums in 
prospectino', but were at last defeated in court and ejected. Not one of them 
made anything by the jumping operation, and it is now conceded that the 300 
feet, instead of being too much, was too little, since most who held even those 
large claims lost money by them. 

The old channel was discovered at Springfield in 1852, in the Fox claim, in 
a shaft eight feet deep, on a flat from Avhich the basalt had been washed aAvay. 
The next year the Berry shaft, 55 feet deep, struck the channel ; but it was not 
till the first of May, 1854, that the first tvmnel was started, and the theory of 
lead running under the basalt was generally considered absurd until October, 
1855, Avhen the first tunnel reached the channel under the basalt. 

The tunnels, to reach the channel, average about 1,000 feet in length, and the 
present cost of cutting tunnels at Table momitain is $16 per lineal foot. The 
common size of the tunnel is six feet high and four feet wide. The grade is one 
foot in a hundred. At the bottom of the tunnel is laid a tramway, 28 inches 
■wide. Sleepers, three by four inches, rest on ties of the same size four feet apart, 
and are covered with iron straps an inch and a half wide and a quarter of an inch 
thick. 

The following is a list of the claims in Table mountain, with a brief statement 
of their success and present condition, commencing near Columbia and running 
down stream : 

The Buchanan claim, 300 feet long, has a tunnel which never paid expenses 
nor reached the gravel ; it is not working now. 

The Springfield claim, 2,000 feet long, has a tunnel 1,500 feet long, and paid 
well. The claim is Avorking noAV. Three channels Avere found in this claim, 
and all Avere rich. 

The Joint Stock claim, 2,400 feet long, has one tunnel of 1,000 feet and 
another of 1,200, that Avas commenced in 1855 ; and the claim is not abandoned, 
although $150,000 have been spent on it and only $50,000 taken out. Good 
gravel has lately been found, and the claim is considered valuable. 

The Saratoga claim, 1,200 feet long, has a tunnel 1,200 feet long. Tlie yield 
Avas $300,000, but rumor says the expenditures Avere still greater. The first 
OAvners sold out at a high price, making a profit by speculation, but causing so 
much more loss to the purchasers. The claim is not Avorking now. 

Here comes a gap in the mountain, and beloAV are the folloAving claims : 

The Crystal Spring claim, 800 feet long, reached the channel and produced 
much gold, but the sum Avas not ascertainable ; it is standing idle now. 

The Know-Nothing, a jumper claim, never reached the channel. 

The Gold Hunter, a jumper claim, never reached the channel. 

The Virginia claim, 1,700 feet long, reached the channel Avith a tunnel 800 
feet long, but took out only $5,000 '"and spent $100,000. The company had 
very long and costly litigation Avith jumpers on both sides. 

The Blank jumper company started a tunnel on the Virginia ground, but 
never reached the channel. 

The Independence jumper company reached the channel by a tunnel 500 feet 
long, but found no gravel, and lost $75,000 by their enterprise. 

The Mary Ann, another jumper company, ran a tunnel in a considerable dis- 
tance, but found nothing. 

The Cape Cod, also a jtnnper, had similar bad luck. 

The American claim, 1,600 feet long, has a tunnel 900 feet long, and cut 
across the channel Avith a drift five feet Avide. No pay gravel Avas found here, 
and the company Avere so poor and so much discouraged that, instead of exam- 
ining the channel further, at a" slight expense, as they could have done, they 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 41 

stopped work^ and nothing lias been done now for three years. Their loss was 
$30,000. 

The Buckeye claim, 1,000 feet long, now includes several old claims, and has 
three tunnels, only one of which, 2,000 feet long, is now uc^d. One of the 
abandoned tunnels was 1,650 feet long. "Work was commenced in 1854, and 
has been kept up, with the exception of one year, ever since, at an expense of 
$100,000, while the total j-ield has been only $10,000. An artesian anger was 
used in prospecting this claim, and ]\Ir. Gould, who tried the experiment, thinks 
it should be used frequently. His drill was four and a haK inches wide, and he 
bored four or five feet in basalt and eight or ten feet in slate in 12 hours. 
The cost in slate is $6 or $S per foot. A water blast is nsed for ventilation. 

The Boston claim, 3,000 feet long, commenced work in 1855, and has worked 
steadily ever since. The total yield has been not less than $500,000, and the 
total net profit nothing. ]\[uch of the work was done at first by a joint stock 
company, the shareholders in which claimed the right of being employed, though 
some of them were of little value as laborers. The manager did not know how 
to work to advantage, and did not pursue any steady plan. They worked first 
in one place and then in another, without exhausting either, and then the timber 
rolled and the roof fell in. There are now two owners in the claim, and they 
are doing better than any of their predecessors, though the gravel is not so rich 
as it was some years ago. There is still a large amount of ground untouched. 
Ten men are employed, and there is pay dirt enough in sight to keep them busy 
for half a year. The average yield per day is 88 to the man, or $1 per ton. 
The dirt is soaked over night in a dump-box before. 

The Maine Boys' claim is 1,200 feet long on the north side of the mountain, 
but the lines converge so that they are only 550 feet apart on the south side. 
The expenses have been $120,000, and the yield very little. The original share- 
holders, having stained themselves out, sold conditionally to a San Francisco 
company. 

The Scrapeiwille claim, 1,200 feet, has paid. It is said that the owners of 
one-fourth of the stock saved $5,000 in a few years. 

The Oliver claim, 4,000 feet long, has yielded $200,000, and report says 
$8,000 have been taken from a single dump-box, which holds 150 tons. The 
profits were moderate till the end of 1866, and are now large. This company 
has been engaged in litigation for six years, has spent $30,000 on the suit, and 
has been before the Supremo Oom-t, in one form or another, with it fom* times. 
The company is working the side channel. 

The New York Company claims 2,400 feet, and their ground is considered the 
richest in the county. They are working on the side channel, which is there 
about 60 feet wide, and each longitudinal foot on it pays $1,000. They say 
they have taken out $250,000 ; others say $300,000. 

The Chinese claim, so called because the shareholders came from a Chinese 
camp near hy, is 2,000 feet long, and never paid anything. The tunnel was 
run in 300 feet. 

The Ajip claim, 2,000 feet long, has a tunnel 1,500 feet long, cut at a cost of 
$50,000. It never paid anything. 

The Know Nothing claim, 1,500 feet, has yielded nothing and swallowed up 
$7,000. 

The Chicken Company claimed 2,500 feet, spent $20,000, cut two tunnels, and 
got nothing. 

The Montezuma Company claimed 3,000 feet and sunk $20,000 in a tunnel 
2,000 feet long. 

The Rough and Ready Company claims 5,400 feet, and have taken out not 
less than $200,000. One of the shareholders observing some gravel on the 
mountain side, filled his pan with it, and on washing it found a good prospect. 
They set to work here and found it rich. It was a bar of the old river, 75 feet 



42 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

above tlie level of tlie channel. The claim has been worked regularly since 
1854, and still pays a little. 

The Union claim, feet, unopened. 

The Palisade claim, 5,400 feet, is unopened. 

Here we come to a place where the channel is lower than the country on each 
side of the mountain, so it is impossible to get any drainage or to do any work. 

The old Stanislaus Company has a claim 12,000 feet long on Table mountain, 
just above the point where the Stanislaus river cuts off. The channel where it 
opens on the bluff is 350 feet above the level of the present river, so there is 
abundant drainage down the channel, though the country on both sides of the 
mountain is higher than the old channel. The old Stanislaus Company spent a 
good deal of inoney trying to get in from the side before they discovered the 
outlet on the bluff. Some of the gravel paid $18 per ton. A mill was erected 
in 1859 to crush the cement, but it did not pay. 

At Two Mile Bar (two miles east of Knight's ferry) the channel is 80 feet below 
the level of the present Stanislaus river. 

Quartz minhtg in Tuoltjmxe. — Tuolumne county is very favorably situated 
for quartz mining, and so far as external indications and facilities may serve as 
guides, the presumptions are that it Avill be second to no other county in Cali- 
fornia in production of quartz gold. Wood and water are abundant ; the roads 
generally are good, and the quartz veins large, numerous and easil}"- traced. The 
mother lode and the companion talcose vein here have their largest and most 
regular development. The Golden Rule, the Reist, the Mooney, and the Heslep 
are all in the companion talcose vein, and have paid for a longer time than any 
other of their class in the State. The quartz veins in the granite about Soulsby- 
ville are the most productive of their class in the State, and the cluster of pocket 
mines on Bald mountain is unsurpassed in the multitude and richness of p(ickets 
within a small area. 

GoLDEX KULE. — The Golden Rule, 1,600 feet long, is on the mother lode, about 
three miles eastward from Jamestown. The claim includes both veins, the main 
mother lode, and the talcose slate branch or companion vein. At the surface 
they are 75 feet apart, and 87 feet below they are 40 feet apart. The main 
lode is 12 feet thick, exclusive of a horse, and the slate vein is eight feet. The 
latter is the one which is being worked. The vein is a black slate, bearing 
much resemblance to ordinary roofing slate, and is penetrated in every direction- 
by seams of quartz, seldom more than two inches in thickness. The gold is 
found in tlie slate, seldom in the quartz. All the vein-stone is worked, though 
that near the foot wall is the richest. The rock is soft, and is easily extracted 
and crushed. The pulp from the battery is black like the slate. The Vv'alls are 
a hard magucsian rock. There is a slight dip to the east. The mill has 15 
stamps, and is driven by water. The weight of the stamps is 750 pounds, their 
speed 50 blows per minute, and their drop from five to eight inches. There is 
sufficient power to drive 15 stamps more. The water is obtained from the Colum- 
bia Ditch Company. About 85 per cent, of the gold is caught in the mortar, 
and nearly five per cent, on the copper plates immediatel}' below. The pulp 
nins over a shaking table, which has 120 jerks per minute, and is cleaned out twice 
in 24 hours, yielding about 400 pounds of sulphm'ets each time. The pulp also • 
passes over blankets, which are washed once in an hour. There are 10 pounds of 
pure sulplmrets to a ton, but the concentrated tailings as saved are about 40 
pounds to a ton of ore, and there are $40 per ton in these tailings, Vv'hich are 
worked in an arrastra, which pays six ounces a month. A Stetson amalgamator 
below the blankets pays only $1 per month. 

The slate vein was brown and decomposed at the surface, and was washed in 
sluices by placer miners to a depth of 30 feet. In 1866 the present mill was 
finished, and in the year preceding the 1st of July, 1867, the number of tons 
crushed was 4,099 ; the average yield per ton, $8 94 ; the total yield, $36,653 ; 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 43 

cost of labor; $16,500; cost of repairs, timber, lumber, cliarcoal, liaiiling, taxes, 
&c., $0,800 ; cost of supplies seut from San Francisco, $2,400 ; office expenses 
in San Francisco, including salaries of president and secretary, freight in bullion,* 
travelling expenses, «5cc., $1,500 ; dividends, $7,500, and cash on hand, $2,953. 
The total expenses were $6 39, and the net profit $2 5o per pon. The average 
number of days that the mill ran in a month was 23 ; the highest being 27, 
and the lowest 17. The average yield per ton was $5 71 in March, $6 79 in 
January, $6 97 in June, $7 72 ni November, $15 54 in October, and $10 or $11 
and odd cents in the other months. The number of men employed was 16, of 
whom 8 were miners, 2 canncn, 4 millmen, a blacksmith and a superintendent. 

The rock is extracted through a tunnel 400 feet long, 80 feet below the sum- 
mit of the hill, and 500 feet above the level of Sullivan's creek, below which the 
mine cannot bo drained by a tunnel. 

App. — The App mine is 1,000 feet long on the mother lode, near Jamesto-wTi. 
The vein there is nine feet wide on an average. The vein-stone is quartz, in 
places white, in others greenish, and others dark. The richest spots are near 
the walls. The vein dips about two feet and a half in ten. The hanging wall 
is magncsian rock, and the foot jvall slate. At the surface there were three pay 
chimneys, 75, 100 and 125 feet in horizontal length respectively, separated by 
intervals of 60 and 35 feet, with a dip to the northwestward of 70° on the upper 
side, but widening out on the under side, and at ISO feet the three had united 
in one chimney 235 feet long horizontally. Horizontal sections of the chimneys 
would represent not rectangles but quadrangular parallellograms, with two very 
acute angles. The chimneys have not run out in any place, but in several 
places the walls have pinched close together, so that there were only seven 
inches of quartz. In these spots the chimneys were of the same richness to 
the ton as elsewhere. The distribution of gold in each chimney is very even 
in relation to the depth ; but on any given level the most gold is found at the 
sliarp ends, and the least in the middle of the chimney. Each chimney, how- 
ever, has its peculiar quartz. One chimney has white quartz, another greenish, 
another bluish, and the last is the richest. The gold is line, and seldom visible 
in the quartz. The present supply of rock is obtained at a depth of 300 feet, 
and the shaft is now being sunk deeper. The Avorking level is 300 feet long, 
and the supply of pay quartz in sight will last two years for the present mill, 
which has ten stamps, and is driven by water. In 1866, 1,800 tons were worked, 
and the average yield was $14 55 per ton; from 1863 to 1866, inclusive, four 
years, 7,200 tons were worked, and the average yield was $15. The pulp as it 
comes from the battery is ground in charges of 400 or 500 pounds for three or 
fom* hours in various pans, without quicksilver, and two pan charges are amalga- 
mated in a separator for the same length of time. The yield in the pan is about 
$6 per ton. The total expense per ton in this mine is about $8 per ton, and in 
the mine alone $4 50. The wall is in places as smooth as glass, and the gouge 
is thickest at the pay chimneys. 

Silver. — The Silver or Anthrax mine, 1,500 feet on the mother lode, is being 
opened in good style. There is a 10-stamp mill, vAich was idle in May and 
waiting for the complete opening of the mine. The companion talcose vein 
strikes the main lode 400 feet from the south end of the claim, runs with it, but 
as a distinct vein for some distance towards the north, then diverges again, and 
at the northern end of the claim the two are six feet apart. The companion 
vein, so far as examined, is barren here. 

Heslep. — The Heslep Kiine, 1,650 feet on the companion talcose vein, has 
been worked 1,200 feet on the suri^ce, and has paid all the Avay. The pay 
matter is decomposed quartz and slate, of a tan color, and soft enough to be 
picked out, and in some places to be shovelled -uithout picking. The cost of 
working is estimated at $2 50 per ton. The vein varies in Avidth from 8 to 20 
feet. The deepest Avorkings are 90 feet down. The mill has ten stamps, Avhich 



44 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

are driven hy an ovcrsliot wheel 30 feet in diameter and four feet wide. The 
power is famished by 80 inches of watei", which costs $50 per Aveek, and is used 
over again by the Gohlen Rule mill, which pays half the water bill. The yield 
of the Heslep rock is $8 per ton. 

Trio. — The Trio mine, 2,316 feet long on the mother lode, on "Whisky Hill, 
is doing nothing now. A ten-stamp mill was erected, and four shafts and two 
tunnels were begun, but the rock taken out paid only $4 75 per ton, and the 
mine and mill are now standing idle. 

Keist. — The Reist mine, 1,000 feet in the talcose companion vein, is consid- 
ered generally to be one of the best mines in Tuolumne county, though it has 
been worked on a very small scale and has never paid much profit. The pay 
rock is decomposed matter like that in the Mooney mine, but it pays better. 

MooxEY. — The Mooney mine, 600 feet on the mother lode, near Jamestown, 
is on the talcose vein, 40 feet east of the main lode. The material is a tan-col- 
ored ochrous earth, mixed with slate and quartz. It pays $'4 75 per ton, and a 
stamp will crush about three tons per day. Much of it has been sluiced away. 
There are occasional rich pockets in it. A four-stamp mill is now at Avork, and 
the rock for it is obtained from an open cut 200 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 60 
feet deep. There are no walls, apparently. At the bottom of this cut some 
hard quartz has been found. 

Raw Hide. — Raw Hide mine, 1,650 feet long on the mother lode, where it 
is 12 feet wide. A depth of 280 feet from the surface has been reached, and a 
level has been run 80 feet on the vein. The quartz is colored green with car- 
bonate of copper, and it yields from $7 to $44 per ton. The mill, containing 20 
stamps, a 40-horse poAver engine, and fine hoisting Avorks, is considered one of 
the best in the southern mines. The rock is crushed to the size of a pigeon's 
egg or smaller in a Brodie's crusher before going to the stamps. There are 10 
Wheeler's pans, and five 8-foot settlers. Thirty tons of quartz are crushed in 24 
hours. The shaft is kept clear of water by hoisting it in tubs holding 160 
gallons each. The hanging wall is slate, and the foot wall sei-pentine, with 
asbestos in it. • 

Eagle. — The Eagle mine, on the mother lode, 1,000 feet long, has a 10- 
starap mill, and the yield is 818 per ton. The present supply of quartz is 
obtained 120 feet beloAv the surface, through a tunnel. The mine AA'as pm'chased 
several j'ears ago by eastern capitalists for $300,000. 

Shaeomut. — The Sharomut, on the mother lode, has a 10-stamp mill, Avhich 
is idle. 

Clio. — The Clio, 2,000 feet, on the mother lode, has a 10-stanip mill and has 
been at work fiA^e or six years, but is noAV idle because the dam Avhich supplied 
water to dri\^e the mill was carried away by the flood of last AA'inter. 

Meader and Carrington. — The Meader and Carangton mine, 1,500 feet, 
on the mother lode, has been opened to a depth of 140- feet, AA'here the Avater 
became troublesome and work Avas stopped. Some good pay quartz AA'as found. 
There is a four-stamp mill Avhich Avas used for a time for custom Avork, but is noAV 
idle. 

Patterson. — The Patterson mine, 1,950 feet, on a branch of the mother 
lode, near Tuttletown, has been Avorked for ten years. The vein is from 3 to 15 
feet Avide. The pay AA'as very good for 75 feet from the surface, but not so good 
beloAV the water level. The deepest Avorkings are 100 feet doAvn. The quartz 
is extracted through a tunnel. The rock contains large cubes of sulphmet of 
iron, some of them an inch and a half square, AA'ith free gold in the heart of the 
cubes. There is an old 1 0-stamp mill, driven by 40 inches of Avater on an OA-er- 
shot wheel. Only five of the stamps are now running. 

About half a mile westward from the mother lode, near the Patterson mine, a 
pocket containing $10,000 Avas found in 1866 by an old man Avho had a convic- 
tion that there Avas a pocket in the neighborhood, and had spent seven years 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 45 

hunting for it. "When he found it he paid the friends upon Avhom he had been 
living, and went to the eastern States. 

Toledo. — The Toledo mine, one mile west of Tuttletown, and half a mile 
west of the mother lode, has been opened by a shaft 160 feet deep, and drifts 
running 300 feet on the vein. There are two veins, one 2 feet thick and the 
other 15 feet, and the two 150 feet apart. Some of the quartz has assayed $300 
per ton, but there is much arsenic in it. A 15-stamp mill erected on the mine 
did not pay, and it was sold and moved to the Golden Rule mine. 

Tlie Morse quartz, near Tuttletown, is running and has six stamps. 

SouLSBT. — The Soulsby mine, 2,400 feet long, eight miles east of Sonora, is 
on a lode which runs with the meridian, and dips to the cast at an angle of 60^ 
at the north end, and 90" at the south. The thickness is from 4 to 9 inches at 
the surface ; 8 inches at 100 feet, and IS inches in the deepest workings, 400 
feet below the surface. The walls are syenite, and there is a white gouge of 
clay or slate, seldom more tlian three-quarters of an inch in thickness. The quartz 
is bluish, and is heavily charged with bine sulphurets, lead, antimony, arsenic, 
and zinc ; so that the ore bears little resemblance to the auriferous quartz found 
on the mother lode, and in other gold veins generally. The lode has been 
worked along a horizontal length of 1,800 feet, and in that distance five pay 
chimneys have been found, the longest horizontally being 200, and the shortest 
15 feet, IMost of them dip north at an angle of 60° ; and they run to a feather- 
edge in every direction. In some cases there is a connection of pay between the 
chutes, and in others there is none. There is very little baiTen quartz ; between 
the pay chimneys the walls come together, except in a few spots where white 
quartz or a horse porphyritic rock appears. The vein is marked by slides and 
cross-courses, which run east, northeast, and southwest, and all, save one, dip to 
the northwest. These throw the vein to the left, and the one which dips to the 
southeast throws it to the right. The cross-courses, and the breaks which they 
have occasioned in the lode, have been among the chief difficulties in working 
the mine, and its present success is probably owing chiefly to the careful study 
given by Mr. Inch to the nature of the formation. In a mine of this kind the 
most important quality in a superintendent is the capacity to find the pay chutes, 
and as the cross-courses throw them from five to ten feet out of the line, in a 
very hard granitic rock, the search is slow and expensive. There are dikes of 
trap cutting through the country, and the miners regard them as good indica- 
tions, and expect to find pay near where they cross the q.uartz. Mr. Inch 
remarked that perhaps they were supporters or feeders of the electro-magnetic 
or other influences under which the gold was deposited. The mill has 20 
stamps, and is driven by water while water can be obtained, and has a steam 
engine to furnish power in the dry season. The stamps weigh 500 pounds, make 
60 blows per minute, and drop from 8 to 12 inches. About 90 per cent, of 
the gold is caught in the mortar, and 95 per cent, of the remainder on the first 
copper plate below the screen. The blanket tailings are Avorked in a chill mill 
and a Ball's amalgamator ; and below these there are other blankets, the tail- 
ings of Avhich must go through the same process. 

About 50 men are employed at the mine and mill, but nearly all the Avork 
is done by contract. Sealed proposals are invited at the beginning of each month 
to sink a certain shaft a certain number of feet, or to run a drift, or to break down 
the quartz in a certain slope. AVith strangers, written contracts are made ; with 
old hands, oral contracts are considered sufficient. There is never any trouble 
about the contracts. The miners sometimes make bad bargains, but they must 
keep them or leave the place. The best hands like this system, because it ena- 
bles them to make more than they could make otherAvise. Sometimes they make 
Si 50 a month ; sometimes not more than $30. Under this system there is no 
shirking on the part of the men, and no favoritism on the part of the superin- 
tendent. Mr. Inch says that, if he had undertaken to pay his men by the day, 



46 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

the miiie would have been a failure ; that is, when he commenced his work ; but 
now it is probably in a condition to leave a profit, even if the expenses were 50 
per cent, greater than they are.* 

The Soulsby mine was discovered in 1858, and between May of that year and 
Mai-ch of the next, yielded $80,383 gross, and after the erection of a twenty- 
stamp mill, $54,416 remained net. It is said that the total-yield was $500,000 
in the first three years, and that the present monthly yield is from $10,000 to 
$12,000. 

Platt.— The Piatt mine, 1,200 feet, lies 1,500 feet south of the Soulsby, and 
is supposed to be on the same lode ; but the ground is intersected by more slides 
and cross-courses, and the mine, after producing $50,000, was abandoned in con- 
sequence of the inability of the superintendent to find the vein at the breaks. 
Latelv, Mr. Inch, superintendent of the Soulsbj'^jhas gone to work, hoping, with 
his experience in the latter, to find the pay in the Platt. Five pay chimneys 
have licen worked. There was a mill on the claim, but it was moved to the State 
of Nevada during the silver excitement. 

Stake, King. — The Starr King, 15 miles east-southeast of Sonora, is on a 
north-and-south vein, which dips 40° east, and has a thickness of six inches 
at the surface, and 18 inches 120 feet down. It cuts across the dip and the 
cleavage of the slate, and the walls are a very hard slate. The walls and 
the quai'tz resemble those of the Rocky Bar mine, in Nevada count}-. There 
are two chutes, which run down almost vertically. The rock yields from $15 to 
$150 per ton. The mill has five stamps, and the mode of amalgamation is the 
same as at the Soulsby mill. 

Old GiLSOiSr. — The Old Gilson mine, 1,200 feet long, adjoining the Platt on 
the south, was opened to a depth of 125. feet, and to a length on the vein of 250 
feet. The rock yields $50, and there was a pay chimney SO feet long horizon- 
talh', but it dipped northwards into the Platt. The mine is now standing idle, 
and the 10-stamp steam mill is running on custom- work. 

Geizzlt. — The Grizzly mine, 1,800 feet long, 10 miles eastward from Sonora, 
near the north fork of the Tuolumne river, is on a vein from 6 to 12 feet 
wide. The hanging wall is granite ; the foot wall slate. There are numerous 
horses in the lode. The pay is disseminated pretty evenly through the rock, 
which yields about $20 per ton. 

There is a twentj^-stamp mill, which commenced work in 1859, and in two 
years took out $125,000, if rumor be true. The flood of 1862 carried oft" part 
of the mill, and stopped work a while, but the mill is now ranning. In this mill 
the crushing is dry, and a blower is used to keep the dust from troubling the 
laborers. The amalgamation is done in 10 Hungarian cast-iron barrels, each 
3 J feet long by 2J wide. The charge for each is 500 or 600 pounds, and enough 
w-ater is added to make a pulp so thick that in ten minutes after the ban-el has 
started to revolve, small particles of quicksilver will be found in the pulp, which 
adheres to the finger thrust into the mass. About 50 pounds of quicksilver are 
put in at a charge. The barrel revolves horizontally with a speed of eight or 
ten revolutions per minute. After running for seven hours, water is added to 
thin the pulp, so much that the quicksilver will all settle, and after another hour 
of revolution the thin pulp is drawn off, and another charge is put in. All the 
amalgamation at the Grizzly mill is done in these baiTcls. There are two iron 

* The London Mining Journal refers to the contract system as an essential element of suc- 
cess in the mines of Cornwall. It has also worked admirably in the St. John del Rey mine, 
in Brazil. The average cost of raising the ore from this mine in 1865, under per diem wages, 
was $7 87. In 1866, under the contract system, it was only $6 29— an immense saying, 
considering the vast amount of ore raised. The contract system has been adopted to a con- 
siderable e'xtent in the New Almaden quicksilver mine. It cannot of course be made of uni- 
versal application, so much depends upon local circumstances ; but experience has demon- 
strated til at whenever it can be applied, the result has been a great saving in the expense of 
mining. 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 47 

cylindrical rollers, each three inches in diameter and as long as the bai'rel inside, 
and these turn and assist in the amalgamation dm-ing the revolutions of the bar- 
rels. The barrels are cleaned up once in two weeks. Amalgamation proceeds 
more readily it" hot water is used. Mr. Philip S. McDonald, who was superin- 
tendent of the Grizzly mill for a time, and has the repute of being a very com- 
petent man, prefers the system of dry crusliing and amalgamating in close bar- 
rels. B}^ the ordinary modes of crushing and amalgamation much of the fine 
gold is carried off by the water. In dry crushing, however, it is necessary to 
protect the laborers from the dust, which has been known to cause death in three 
months, where no precaution was used. 

The Bonita mine, adjoining the Grizzly on the south, is idle, and so is its 
10-stamp mill, which was built before the mine was opened. 

The Consuela and its ten-stamp mill are doing nothing. 

The Jlartin mine, two miles south of the Grizzly, is being -worked with 
aiTastras. 

The Invincible mine, 2,000 feet on Sugar Pine creek, 22 miles eastward 
from Sonora, has produced some good quartz, but the mine and its mill are 
standing idle now. 

The Excelsior mine, at Sugar Pine, has yielded $300,000, of which two-thirds 
was profit. 

Mount Vernok. — The Mount Vernon mine, 2,100 feet long, 18 miles north- 
east of Sonora, is on a vein which runs northeast and southwest, dips 45° to the 
southeast, and is about two feet wide on an average between granite walls. Only 
one pay chimney has been found, and that dips about 45° to the southwest. It 
was 60 feet long horizontally, near the smface, and 300 feet down it is more 
than 100 feet long, the end not having been found in the drift now being run. 
The rock is worked in the Jilonitor mill, W'hich is very near on the north fork of 
the Tuolumne river. The rock pays $96 jDcr ton, and in 1866 500 tons were 
worked. 

Snell. — The Snell mine, 1,800 feet long, 15 miles northeast of Columbia, 
is on a vein which runs northeast and southwest, is nearly vertical, and has an 
average Avidth of one foot. A pay chimney was found, and it paid $50 per 
ton, but it pinched out. A mill is going up now. 

MoxiTOK. — The Monitor, 2,100 feet long, 18 miles east of Columbia, in Sugar 
Pine district, is 15 inches wide, and dips at an angle of 45° to the east between 
granite walls. There is an incline down 60 feet, and drifts have been run 90 feet 
on the vein. Some of the rock has paid as much as $300 to the ton, but the 
mine and mill are both idle now. The mill has five stamps. 

Hazel Dell. — The Hazel Dell mine, 1,550 feet long, at Five-mile creek, 
on a vein that averages about two feet in thickness. The walls are rotten granite. 
The rock averages $25 to $30, but at present the extraction of quartz is inter- 
rupted by water. The lowest w^orkings are seventy feet below the surface. A 
tunnel Is now being cut for the pm'pose of drainage. There is a five-stamp mill 
which has been leased. 

Summit Pass. — The Summit Pass mine lN"o. 1, one mile from Columbia, 
3,600 feet long, runs north and south, dips to the east at an angle of 70°, and is 
four feet wide. The walls are of slate, with an overlying stratum of limestone 
near the smface. The claim has been worked 500 feet along the surface, and 
paid well, ^rhe quartz is heavily charged with arsenical sulphurets. No work 
is being done now. 

Summit Pass No. 2, 2,000 feet long, is on a spm' from the preceding lode. 
The mine has been opened at several points. 

QuAETZ NEAR COLUMBIA. — The Columbia mine, on the experimental lode 
at Summit Pass two miles northeast of Columbia, has limestone walls, runs 
northwest and southeast, dips to the northeast, and is from one foot to four feet in 
width. The average pay is $11 per ton. It is worked with a 15-stamp mill. 



48 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The Kimball mine, three miles northeast of Columbia, lies between limestone 
and green-stone, is a foot wide, and is accompanied by a trap dike 8 or 10 feet 
wide. When first opened $6,000 were obtained from GOO pounds of rock. It 
is not Avorked now. 

The Kimball extension, adjoining the Kimball, is similar in character, and is 
being worked now, the quartz being crushed in a custom mill. The yield is 
810 per ton. 

The Shanghac mine at Yankee Hill, two miles east of Columbia, in a vein 
which runs north and south, dips to the east at an angle of 65°, and is three feet 
wide. It is east of the limestone belt in slates highly metamorphosed. It was 
worked with aiTastras in 1856, and yielded then $100 per ton; and it is now 
worked with a 10-stamp mill. 

HuxTEE. — The Hunter mine, in Big Canon, 14 miles southeast of Sonora, 
is on the side of a mountain that is at an angle of 45° from the north fork 
of the Tuolumne. The rock was very rich at the surface, and a tunnel run in 
20 feet ran through quartz that yielded 8300 to the ton. The owner was so 
delighted that he built a mill without delay and at great cost. The only way 
to get the timbers and castings to the site Avas to let them down with ropes from 
the top of the mountain. After $40,000 had been expended in the mill and in 
exploration, it was found that the pay chute was only 20 feet long, and more 
money would be required to work it than the owner could raise; so after $10,000 
had been taken out no more work was done. 

Lewis. — The Lewis mine, 2,400 feet long, is 20 miles east-northeast of 
Sonora, on a vein of talcose slate 150 feet wide. The course is north and south, 
with a slight dip to the east. The slate is baiTcn, but it encloses a number of 
veins of quai'tz which run in every direction, and all are rich. There are several 
chutes about 30 feet long horizontally, in which the quartz averages $25 to 
830 per ton, while elsewhere the quartz yields 810 or $12. Most of the quartz 
is found near the hanging wall. The vein has been examined for a distance of 
2,000 feet, and pay rock has been found at intervals along the whole distance. 
The quartz in places contains sulphurets of iron and lead, and crude sulphur is 
found in the slate. Heretofore the quartz has been extracted by tunnels, but 
hereafter shafts are to be sunk. The eastern wall is granite and the western a 
hard black slate. The mine lies in the Big basin, which is smTounded by high 
ridges, on the north side of which the snow lies till May. The rock is crushed 
in a five-stamp mill, and is amalgamated in two large arrastras. The gold varies 
in fineness from 600 to 785, the highest fineness being obtained from those quartz 
veins which contain the coarsest particles of metal. 

Sell and Martlnt. — The Sell and Martin mine, 1,200 feet long, is situated 
one mile north of Sonora. It is two or three feet wide, and runs northwest and 
southeast, and dips 60° to the northeast. It is a remarkable pocket vein, and 
has produced not less than 8150,000, of which one-fourth has been profit. It 
was first opened in 1 850, and has been leased three or four times. For one year 
the lessee paid one-third, and for another one-fourth of the gross yield. Al30ut 
.2,000 tons of rock have been taken out in all, but most of the gold has beeu 
pounded out in a hand mortar. The walls are of slate, and the country is inter- 
sected by pori)hyritic dikes three or four feet thick, which occur at intervals of 
100 or 150 feet along the 700 feet in which the pockets have been found. The 
vein is later in formation than the dikes and cuts across them, and on the lines 
of intersection most, if not all, of the pockets have been found. The quartz, 
except in the immediate neighborhood of the pockets, is barren. A 15-stamp 
ciill was erected at the mine in 1863, but as no large quantity of ore could be 
obtained to yield more than 50 cents a ton, the mill has been standing idle. 
There arc several men now at work in the mine hunting for pockets and taking 
out the gold in a hand mortar when they find them. The largest pocket found 
yielded 815,000. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 49 

Sophia. — The Sophia mine, two miles east of Sonora, is 2,150 feet long', on 
a vein Avhich runs northeast and southwest and dips 80° southwest. The vein is 
crossed by dikes which the miners call granite. Their width is usually three feet, 
thoTigh one is forty. The gold is found in pockets near the dikes. Every pay 
chimney is near a dike, but some of the dikes have no pay chutes near them. 
The Avails are of slate, and there is on one side or the other a talcose gouge, 
usually on the hanging wall; and when in the foot Avail it indicat(!S the proximity 
of a pocket. There are AA'ithin a distance of 300 feet, horizontally, three pay 
chutes, each of them from ten to tAventy feet long. The mine has been worked 
by a tunnel 400 feet long, and a shaft 80 feet deep ; and another tunnel 130 feet 
below the IcA^el of the first one is noAv in 170 feet. The total yield from the mine 
has been $45,000, and in the year ending May, 1867, the produce was about 
•$5,000. There is a five-stamp mill on the claim, but it has not rock enough to 
run regularly. 

Bald MouNTArs". — On the same Bald mountain, and it is supposed on the 
same vein, is the Patterson and Turner claim, Avhich yielded $30,000 in one 
pocket, and $60,000 in all. 

On the same mountain is the Ford claim, AA'hich Avas discovered in 1851, and 
was Avonderfully rich at the surface. One pocket yielded $40,000, and the OAvners 
rejected offers to purchase shares at the rate of $500,000 for the entire mine. 

Tlie Austrian claim, on the same mountain, had one pocket that paid $70,000, 
besides several others smaller. 

The three claims last mentioned are all idle now, and Avere worked only near 
the surface. There is no regular (as distinguished from a " pocket") pay chute 
in Bald mountain, the gold being nearly all in pockets. The gold is of \^ery 
fine quality, some of it 960 fine. Some pockets are surrounded by shattered 
and decomposed rock, and about these some mill rock is obtained, but the pockets 
in hard rock have all their gold in a little compact cluster. 

Bald mountain is only a mile east of the limestone belt Avhich runs through 
Tuolumne county, and many miners say that all the gold near the limestone is 
in pockets. 

1)rapek. — The Draper mine, 4,000 feet long, six miles eastward from Sonora, 
is on a vein which runs north and south, is nearly perpendicular, and is 15 
inches Avide in granite Avails. The lowest Avorkings are 325 feet deep, and they 
extend 410 feet on the vein. There are three pay chimneys, one of 70, one of 
90, and one of 60 feet in horizontal length. BetAveen the pay chimneys the Avails 
pinch together. The mine has been Avorked regularly since 1858. The quartz 
yields about $40 per ton, and 150 or ISO tons are extracted monthly and AVorked 
in steam custom mills, to Avhich $6 per ton is paid for crushing and amalgama- 
tion. The price in AA'ater mills is $5 per ton. The ore is heavily charged Avith 
sulphnrets of iron, copper, lead and zinc. 

NoxPAPvEiL. — The Nonpareil mine, one mile from Big Oak Flat, is on the 
Nonpareil vein, Avhich runs east and Avest and dips to the north at an angle of 
70°, and has an aA^erage Avidth of five feet. The Avails are slate, and the quartz 
of the veinstone is mixed Avith slate, and in places the hard slate is seen full of 
particles of gold. Several shafts liaA^e been sunk, and the deepest workings 
are 140 feet on an incline. Drifts have been run 160 feet on the A^ein in pay all 
the Avay. At 70 feet from the surface the rock yielded $30 and $40 to the ton, but 
in the loAvest levels the pay has been $13. The rock contains five per cent, of 
sulphurets Avhich assay $300 or more to the ton, some samples yielding double 
and treble as much. The mine is now troubled with Avater, and Avork has been 
stopped, but a tunnel 650 feet long Avould di-ain the mine to a depth of 340 feet. 
There is a five-stamp mill Avhich is also idle. The poAver is supplied by a Fau- 
cheric turbine Avheel seven inches in diameter and four feet long, including the 
driving Avheels. There is 345 feet of pei-pendicular fall for the AA'ater, and 60' 
4 



50 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

inches are used at a cost of 15 cents per inch, or $9 for 24 hours. The turhine 
was bought with the assurance that it would drive 24 stamps, but the opinion 
among those who have seen it work is that it would not drive more than 10 
Farrand's oscillating pan and Hinkle's pan are used in the amalgamation. 

Burns. — The Burns mine, on the Nonpareil vein and adjoining the Nonpareil 
mine, has a mass of decomposed talcose slate which is in places 25 feet wide. It all 
pays to Avork, and 12 tons are rushed daily through the live-stamp mill. 
Five additional stamps are being put in. The pulp, after being amalgamated 
in the mortar and on copper plates just below the battery, rims into tanks and 
settlers, and from the tanks the sand is put into Varney's pans to be ground, and 
it is afterwards amalgamated in settlers. 

Other Quartz near Big Oak. — The Rattlesnake mill containing 10 stamps, 
erected in 1866 at Big Oak Flat, is not running now. 

The Cosmopolite mine, near the head of Garrote creek, is on a vein which runs 
northwest and southeast and dips to the northeast, and is ten feet wide. The 
lowest workings are 150 feet below the surface, and a 10-stamp millj formerly 
known as the Cross or Anita mill, belongs to the mine. 

The Mississippi mine at Big Oak Flat has had some rich pockets. A mill 
was built in 1866, but it is not running now, crushing being done at present in 
an arrastra. 

The Cross mill is standing idle. It belongs to the Golden Rock Water Com- 
pany and offers to do custom work. 

The Mack mill is also idle. The Jackson mill, four miles east of Big Oak 
Flat, ditto. 



SECTIOX y. 

CALAVERAS COUNTY. 

The county of Calaveras extends from the Stanislaus river on the south, to 
the Mokelumno on the north, and from the summit of the Sierras on the east, to 
near the base of the foot-hills on the west. The rivers which serve as the northern 
and southern boundaries are permanent, but all within the limits of the county, 
unless streams confined to the snow regions near the summit, go dry in summer. 
The Calaveras river, from which the county takes its name, and the San Antonio, 
are considerable streams in winter, but their beds are bare in the fall. 

With the exception of West Point, all the towns of any note in this county 
are on the lime belt, or west of it; and most of them are within 1,800 of the 
level of the sea, and in a region which, except near the large streams, is gently 
undulating, so that there is little difficulty in travelling about. All the streams 
are auriferous, but most of the diggings have been shallow and are now exhausted, 
and as a consequence the business of the county has very much declined. There 
is not one large hydraulic claim in the county, and although there are many quartz 
claims that have each yielded large sums, there is no quartz mine that has paid 
high and constantly for five years. There is good reason to believe, however, 
that Calaveras will, in a few years, occupy a much higher position in quartz 
mining than at present. The county is well supplied with water by ditches ; 
the roads are comparatively good; and timber can be had in sufficient quantity 
for mining purposes. 

The debt of the county is $240,000, and the State and county tax is four per 
cent, annually of the assessed value of property. 

There are "fifteen ditches in the county, with a total length of 300 miles, con- 
structed at a total cost of $2,000,000. The only large ditches are those o^raed 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 51 

by the Mokelumiid Hill raid Campo Scco Company and hy tlie Union Water 
Company.* 

The principal quartz, mininij towns are Angels, West Point and Carson Hill. 
Mnrphys, Douglas Flat and Cave City are placer mining towns on the limestone 
belt. Mokelumne Hill and San Andres are near old channels, and both have 
some shallow placers. Jenny Lind and Campo Seco had rich placers in earlv 
days, bnt both are exhausted now, at least so far as the present wages and modes 
of working will permit. Cat Camp, near the western line of the county, not 
worked hitherto because of the lack of water, is to have a ditch finished before 
the end of the year, and 350 claims have been located there in anticipation. 

Deep beds of gravel have Ijeen found in several high ridges in the eastern part 
of the county, but so f;ir as they have been examined they have not proved rich 
enough to pay for hydraulic washing. It is known that there are considerable 
deposits of gravel near the Big Tree grove. Some explorations have been under- 
taken in the hope of finding in that neighborhood the Big Blue lead of Sierra 
and Placer counties, but ■without success. 

El Dorado Flat is a portion of an old channel near the Stanislaus river, 300 
feet above its level, and half a mile above Robinson's feny. The gravel is 100 
feet deep, and the bed rock pitches as if the stream had run up the course of the 
present Coyote creek. Ten men, in four months, took out $7,000 at El Dorado 
in the early part of 1867. 

The Mokelumne river paid very well at nearly all the bars, more than a dozen 
in number between Union bar and Clay's bar, and even in the bottom of the 
channel. At Sandy bar 107 pounds of gold were taken in two days by seven 
Frenchmen. The river was flumed every year from 1850 to 1865, and for the 
first seven or eight years paid high. At Union bar much of the gold was in 
pieces resembling melon seeds in size and shape. The Mokelumne river has 
been worked for about 30 miles along its course. 

The Stanislaus river has been worked every year since 1849. In that year 
the work was confhied chiefly to the bars; in 1850, 1851 and 1852 the stream 
was dammed at many places and turned, but paid at only a few. The bed, 
except near the mouths of Carson's creek. Coyote creek, and Jackass gulch, was 
comparatively poor. The best diggings were found at the heads of bars and 
near high-water line, and the rich spots in the deeper parts of the bed Avere nearly 
all in crevices, some of them made b^'^ the decomposition of quartz veins. After 
1853 the river was flumed repeatedly, but in nine cases out of ten these fluming 
enterprises were unprofitable. The river mining, for the last six or seven years, 
has been mostly in the hands of Chinamen. 

Big Tree Grove. — The Big Tree grove, situated 15 miles from Murphys, 
81 miles from Stockton, and 4,500 feet above the level of the sea, is a favorite 
place of resort. Five days' time and $50 are required to make the trip from 
San Francisco and back in the cheapest and most expeditious manner. The 

* Mr. Watson, referring to the resources of Calaveras county, says : "The sectional area of 
this county is 1,140 square miles, with but 98 square miles or G2,7G3 acres of cultivated land. 
The assessor's valuatioti of the county is $'2,0U4,430. The population, 16,299 in JSGO,"* is 
mostly enp^aged ^n miniug pursuits, and are large buyers of imported products and merchan- 
dise, all of which must pass over the Stockton and Copperopoliri railroad. Aside from the 
gold and copper of this county, there arc extensive quarries of marble and granite of very 
superior quality, which cannot be worked at the present rates of transportation. Her upper 
range of mountains are covered by a dense forest of pine and oak, embracing an area of about 
300 square miles, which can probably be transported to the San Francisco market for 25 per 
cent, less than an equal qualify of timber can be procured from any other source on this coast. 
In this county is located the Big Trees or "Mammoth Grove," which, as a curiosity, attracts 
thousands of tourists every year, and, as a natural production, it excites the wonder and admi- 
ration of every visitor. The up freights for the county will amount to 15,610 tons per annum, 
and down freights, including copper ores, 65,400 tons per annum — total, 71,040 tons. 

" Jistimated population in 1866, i2,Q00.—Swctt's Report on Fuhlic Schools. 



52 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

elevation is so great that snow lies four or five montlis in the year^ and the hotel, 
which is commodiovis and well-kept, does not open for visitors until May or June, 
according to the season. The grove contains 90 trees over 15 feet in diameter, 
and of these ten are 30 feet through just at the ground, though 10 or 15 feet 
above the diameter is considerably less. Five men spent 22 days in 1854, 
cutting down a tree which was 92 feet in circumference and 300 feet high. The 
stump has been taken as the foundation and floor of a house in which dancing 
parties are sometimes held. There is abundant room in it for a large quadrille. 
The bark was taken from another tree to a height of 116 feet from the ground — 
up to where the branches began — at the same time, and the tree did not begin 
to show signs of dying until two years afterwards, and some of its boughs were 
green six years later. It is estimated that one of the trees which had fallen long 
before the grove was discovered was 450 feet long and 40 feet in diameter. Prof. 
Whitney carefully counted the rings of the tree which was cut down and found 
that they numbered about 1,300. The big trees are scattered about in a forest 
of very large trees, many of which are as high, and some almost as large, as the 
smaller specimens of the sequoia gigantea, as the big tree is technically named. 
The number of visitors annually is about 2,000. 

Agricdltuke. — Agriculture in Calaveras county is not in a very flourishing 
condition. Water is not cheap enough to be used for irrigating grain or pasture land ; 
fruit and wine will not pay the expense of transportation to Sacramento, and brandy 
will not pay with the present tax upon its production. There are a multitude 
of fine orchards and vineyards, but as many of them are unprofitable, so they 
are neglected. With cheap water and cheap transportation to market this county 
should be prominent in the production of wool, wine, and fruit. 

At Douglas Flat, in the orchard of Mr. Hitchcock, the peach thrives Ijetter 
than any other tree fruit. The yield is very large and regular, and the quality 
good. Apricots do not thrive. The white winter Pearmain apple bears well 
and keeps well. The Porter apple bears well, and though rated as a fall fruit 
in the eastern States, keeps here till February, The Wine Sop keeps till Jane. 
The Newtown pippin is the best keeper, bears well, and has a fine flavor. The 
Belleflower, Northern Spy, and Peck's Pleasant are good at neither bearing nor 
keepmg. The Vandevere bears tolerably, but does not keep. The Esopus 
Spitzonberg keeps well, but does not bear heavily. The Roxbury Russet bears 
very well, but does not keep. The same may bo said of the Baldwin, except 
that it bears well only in alternate years. The Golden Russet is one of the best 
and most regular bearers and keeps till December, 

At JMurphys, although the distance is only two miles from Douglas flat, the 
fruit is two weeks later in ripening, and the more delicate kinds, such as figs 
will not ripen. The difference in elevation does not seem to be more than a 
couple of hundred feet. In the western part of the county figs are very pro- 
ductive. 

Meteorology. — The amount of rain in the rainy season of 1865 and 1866, 
at Murphys was 31 inches, and in 1860 and 1867 44 inches. 

As much as 10 feet of snow has fallen at the Big Trees in one storm, but the 
depth is seldom more than five feet at any one time. As the ground does not 
freeze, there is no good sleighing, 

San Andreas, — San Andreas is the present county seat, and is situated at a 
paint where San Andreas ravine intersects an ancient river channel. The couniy 
seat was formerly at Mokelumne Hill, on the northern limit of the county, and 
was removed after the people had voted at a special election for San Andreas. 
Great frauds were practiced in the election, especially at ]\Iokelumne Hill, which 
then contested the election, and years elapsed before the courts and county offices 
were removed to San Andi'eas, which had spent $75,000 in the contest. The 
people of the new county town were much chagrined to find that there was scarcely 
any perceptible increase in the amount of business or in the value of property 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 53 

aftgr the cliange, and many of those who spent their cash wouhl be glad to have 
it back, even if Mokehimne Hill were to have its fonner dignity. The monthly 
shipment of dust from San Andreas is $25,000, nearly all placer. 

The Sai^ Axdkeas old Chaknel. — An ancient channel nms past San 
Andreas, and indeed it is to the rich deposits of the old river that the town owes 
its existence. This ancient channel has been traced a distance of eight miles 
from the head of Old Gulch, past San Andreas, and Gold Hill, to the south fork 
of the Calaveras. The general course is nearly west ; the average width is 100 
feet, and the depth under the surface is 150 feet, of which about 100 feet is 
volcanic sand. The richest pay stratum is a soft Idue gravel, four feet deep, whicli 
yields seven-eighths of its gold at the first washing ; but there is also a red cement, 
which sometimes usurps the place of the blue gi'avel on the bed rock ; sometimes 
overlies it, and sometimes occupies half the channel, leaving the blue on the 
other side. This red cement is not so rich as the blue, nor is the gold so coarse, 
and it should be crushed in a mill, if more than one-third of its gold is to be got 
at the first washing. Some of« the gold found in the blue gravel is quite black. 

It has been reported that a petrified turtle thirty inches long was found in one 
of the claims on this channel ; but the report is mentioned here not to accredit 
it, but suggest it as a matter for investigation. 

IVIr, Marshall sa3-s he found in the pay dirt in the claim of IMarshall and 
Showalter an Iiidiau mortar, and this is perhaps one of the best authenticated 
cases of human handiwork found in an ancient stream. 

In that claim, starting from the surface, the shaft passed through 5 feet of 
coarse gravel; tlien sand and gravel 100 feet; then a thin bed of fine brownish 
gravel; then 4 feet of cemented sand; then 15 feet of blueish volcanic sand; 
then 6 feet of pay dirt, and finally slate-bed rock, one foot of which is rich. 

The following is the form of a notice used in locating a claim on this channel : 

Notice. — The undersigned claims this ground for mining purposes, known as the Robert 
McCall &- Co.'s claim, being a deep or shaft claim, and being bounded on the northwest by 
the Gilchrist and Coruwell claim, and on the southeast by the Plug Ugly claim, 1,000 feet 
more or less, and he intends to work it according to the laws of the San Andreas mining 
district. 

WILLIAM IRVINE. 
John Showalter, Recorder. 
August 18, 186-2. 

The first notable claim on the channel commencing at the highest point that 
has been worked is that of Foster, Frazier & Co., 800 feet long on the channel, 
where the depth is 100 feet. It has been worked 10 years, and paid about $7 
per day to the hand. The pay is obtained by drifting, and is taken to the sur- 
face through a shaft and tunnel. 

After an interval in which the channel has not been found, we come to the 
claim of JMcLaughlin and Dore, who have been at work 10 years, and have 
averaged about $5 per day. Three or four men are now employed on the claim. 

After another space in which the channel was not found, is the claim of George 
Earnhardt & Co., situated on the hill between Old Gulch and French Gulch. It 
has been w'orked six or seven years, and four or five men are now employed in 
it. It is a hydraulic claim, and the bank is 75 feet deej). 

The next claim, that of Young & Co., is on the hill, south of upper Caleveritas, 
and has paid well for 10 years. It has been worked both by hydraulic and by 
tunnel. Three or fom* men are employed. 

Knight, Simpson & Co., work their claim by the hydraulic process, with four 
men. It has paid well for six or seven years. 

The railroad claim on Railroad Hill, one mile below the previous claim,_ has 
never paid, but has broken several parties who took hold of it. It is now idle. 
The channel was never found in it. 

Wade, Johnson & Co., between Yaqui Gulch and lower Calaveritas, employ 



54 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

four men in tlicir claim, wliicli tliey work by drifting, and liave obtained moderate 
pay. 

Hedrick, Wilcox & Co., are working with tkree men, and getting very mode- 
rate pay. They erected a cement mill, Imt the gravel was not rich enough, and 
the mill was moved to a quartz mine at Fairplay. 

The Plug Ugly claim, 800 feet long has yielded -$1,100 in one day, and still 
contains rich ground. Contention among the shareholders has prevented work 
for two years. 

Irvincs claim, 1,000 feet long,- has been worked ior two years, and has pai 
well. The gravel is so tough that after being slaked for a while it will yield 
ten times as much in the sluice as it will if washed immediately after coming out 
of the drift. The proprietor is now erecting a water-mill to hoist and crush the 
cement. 

The claim of Patrick Gilchrist, ISO feet long, paid Avell for a short time, but 
is closed now as if worked out, though some good miners think it still valuable. 

Marshall and Showalter have GOO feet, ani:l have been at work for 13 
years, usually employing six or eight men. Their claim has been very rich, and 
it yielded nine pounds in one forenoon. The dirt is hoisted by a whim. 

The Marlette claim, GOO feet long, Avas opened about 1857, and work was 
stopped in 1861, for want of drainage. 

The McFall claim, GOO feet long, has been worked for 10 years, and has paid 
about $10 per day to three men. The proprietor of this claim cut a long drain 
at considerable expense and solicited some contribution from the claim owners 
above, but they refused, so he left 20 feet at the head of his claim standing, and 
this served as a wall to back the water on the Marlette, ]\Iarshall, Plug, and 
Irvine claims, and stopped work in parts of them for five years. Lately they have 
paid Si, 000, The drain has been opened and they have resumed work. 

The Dunning claim, 400 feet long, was opened 'in 1854, and was worked out 
in five years, during which time it paid alK)ut $20 per day to six men. One pan 
yielded 12 pounds, and in one Aveek $10,000 was taken out. 

Here the_ channel strikes San Andreas gulch, and below this point the old 
channel is six feet or more below the level of the present stream, in some places 
35 feet deeper. For 1,500 feet the channel is under the gulch, and there, be- 
cause of the shallowness of the ground, the diggings were very profitable Avhen 
first Avorked. After leaving the bed of the gulch the old channel runs 1,000 
yards to Gold Hill, Avhere a remarkable fault is found, the channel having been 
here broken off and raised up 100 feet perpendicularly by some convulsion of 
nature. The bed rock, the size, course, and grade of the channel, and the char- 
acter of the gold and of the strata, all indicate that the Gold Hill diggings belong 
to the ancient river of San Andreas. The Gold Hill claims paid^Avell, but are 
noAV all Avorked oitt. 

MoKELUMNE Hill. — Mokelumne Hill Avas for a long time the largest toAvn 
in the southern mines, and it is noAV one of the most populous. It is situated on 
the south bank of the Mokelumne river, but about 800 feet above its level, at a 
point Avherc an ancient channel has been cut through, leaving a convenient pass 
for travel from north to south and exposing rich deposits of gold near the surface. 
The toAvn, instead of being on the summit of a hill, as might be inferred from its 
name, is rather in a flat or basin, Avith hills several hundred feet higher both 
east and west. There are a number of very pretty gardens in the suburbs. 
Many of the business houses are built of a light lava or tufa, Avhich is founc' 
abundantly in the neighborhood. Houses in the town are sold for about one 
fifth their cost. Mokelumne Hill is a stage centre from Avhich lines run to Stock- 
ton, (45 miles,) to Sonora, (50 miles,) through San Andreas, Angels, Vallecito, 
and Columbia, to Latrobe, (38 miles,) through Jackson, Satter, and Dry Town, 
and to West Point, (16 miles.) There is also a horse mail to Campo Scco, 12 
miles distant. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 55 

In the spring of 1851 three Frenchmen found an extremely rich old channel 
high np on the side of French Hill, northeast of the town of Mokelumne Hill, 
and in a few daj's took out -$180,000. They attempted to keep their wealth a 
secret, but in vain, and some Americans found it out and w'ent into the claim at 
night and stole from it. One night they dug out a piece Aveighing 11 pounds, 
but as it was dirty they did not discover its character in the dark, and threw it 
aside. The Frenchmen found this piece the nest morning, and a piece of candle 
which had been left behind ; so the next night they watched tlieir claim in arms. 
The robbers, finding themselves foiled, laid claim to the mine, and threatened to 
take it by force, and the Fienchmen of the neighborhood assembled to defend 
their countrymen, since, if the claim of one Frenchman could be taken, there 
would be no secmity for the others. There Avas much animosity at the time 
against foreigners, and the rei)ort that the Frenchmen were arming gave great 
offence, and soon there were two armies ready for the fight. The French vice- 
consul at Mokelumne Hill acted as mediator, and succeeded in making a com- 
promise, by the tenns of which a committee of American miners were placed in 
possession of the claim to work it until they had taken out enough to pay the 
expense of the military organization of the Americans, and then to return it to 
the French owaiers. The committee worked at the claim for months and worked 
it out, and the entire sum that they paid from it towards the expenses of the 
military organization was 81,100, a sum less tlian the Frenchmen had been in the 
habit of getting nearly every day. Thus ended the French war, in which many 
French cabins were burned but nobody was killed ; though attempts were made 
to assassinate several Frenchmen, and one American w^ho, having been appointed 
to consult with the French consul, took sides with the Frenchmen. Before the 
compromise was effected the Frenchmen fortified themselves on Corral Hill, but 
they fled when they saw the enemy coming to storm their works. Tiiis discre- 
tion saved much Idoodshed, for the assailants outnumbered the entrenched party, 
and they had laid their plans so that the French would be exposed at the time 
of assault to the fire of an enemy occupying a commanding position in the rear. 

Mokelumne Hill old channel. — The Mokelumne Hill old channel begins 
or is found at its highest point about a mile east of the town of that name, near 
the residence of J. Ty^^^^? ^^'^^^ ^''^^^ thence under Corral Flat, striking Stockton 
Hill, (at a point between the Stockton Hill upper diggings and the Water Com- 
pany's claim,) thence passing in a southwardly direction under the Stockton Hill 
ridge, about 330 feet below the surface, until it strikes Chile gulch, under the 
Innes & Co. claim, which gulch it then follows down on one side or the other to 
its intersection Avith the old San Andreas channel, where the two unite. This 
channel has been Avorked to great profit in some of its parts, and others, though 
opened very thoroughly at great expense, have proved entirely barren. The 
largest yield has been obtained east of the point Avhero the old channel first 
strikes Chile gulch, but further down there is a place called Junction, Avhere a 
number of claims have proved very rich. 

The Water Company's claim, 1,800 feet long, in Stockton Hill, southAvest of 
Mokelumne Hill, has been Avorked by several long tunnels, and has yielded, 
according to rumor, $110,000. 

The Water Company's cement mill, on Chile gulch, near Mokelumne Hill, has 
10 stamps, and is driven by 40 inches of Avater forced under 100 feet head upon 
a Imrdygurdy AA'heel. 

The Paul claim, 2,600 feet long, has been Avorked continuously for ten years, 
and has paid Avell, the net yield, as stated by common report, being $160,000. 

The Calaveras Tunnel Company AVorked from 1857 till 180G, and did remark- 
ably Avell at first, but afterwards spent much money in hunting for the channel, 
and made but little gain as the total result of their labors. 

The Allen claim, 1,000 feet long, was AVorked from 1859 to 1865, and Avas 
not profitable. 



56 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The Innes claim, 1,100 feet long, was worked from 1856 to 1864 bj'^ a tunnel 
1,400 feet long, which passed over the deep channel, and by four shafts from 45 
to 110 feet deep. The result was the loss of nearly all the money invested. 

The Cubberlj' claim has j'ielded some very rich pay gravel. 

The Amherst claim, 1,400 feet long, has proved extremely rich. The chan- 
nel here crosses a streak of soft rock called ''rotten granite" by the miners, and 
this has caught the gold which has sliddcn over the harder rock. The claim 
has been worked for 10 years, paying nil the time. For 5 years, 10 or 12 men 
were employed ; now there are 4. It is reported that a partner who had owned 
half the claim went to the east in 1862 with $28,000. The work wa-s done by 
drifting for some years, but the tunnels have caved in and now the hydraulic 
process is used. 

The Shaw claim has been worked 10 years, most of the time with large profit. 
An attempt was made lately to pipe away the dirt through a shaft and tunnel, 
but the shaft caved in, and it is now necessary to jjipe away the dirt from the 
outside of the hill. 

This completes the list of the claims in Stockton Hill, commencing at Moke- 
lumne Hill and running down stream. JMention has been made of but one old 
channel running under this hill, but really there are two, the smaller one being 
from 90 to 120 feet above the level of the main old channel. About a mile and 
a quarter l)elow Mokelumne Hill the upper channel breaks off and seems to fall 
90 feet into the lower channel, and it does not appear again below that point. 

Opals. — In the north end of Stockton Hill, almost within the limits of the 
town of Mokelumne Hill, is an opal-bearing stratum about 60 feet below the 
surface of the hill. This stratum is a rough gravel enclosed in a tough redchVh 
clay, from six to eighteen inches deep, lying between two layers of volcanic sand. 
In 1865 three claims Avere worked for opals, which were obtained in great abun- 
dance, but they were of very common quality and did not pay. None of the 
fire opals were found. The dirt, when taken out, was allowed to dry, and was 
then broken up with wooden mallets, and the opals, which were from a quarter 
of an inch to two inches in diameter and white in color on the outside, were 
picked out by hand. The longest opal tunnel ran 190 feet into the hill. 

On one occasion there was much excitement at Mokelumne Hill on account 
of the rumored discovery of a mine of emeralds and sapphires, and men went 
out at night with lanterns and staked off a large district in claims. Afterwards 
they investigated the nature of the first discover}', and came to the conclusion 
that the supposed precious stones were only pieces of colored glass which had 
been in the gizzard of a turkey. 

Camps near Mokelumxe Hill. — Tunnel Ridge, one mile southeast of Moke- 
linnne Hill, is three miles long, has a cap of volcanic rock, beneath which in 
places is found a stratum or lead of auriferous gravel, most of Avhich has been 
worked through tunnels. 

Buckeye, two miles east of IMokelumne Hill, has several hydraulic claims, 
which have been worked for six years. One of them is now paying well. 

Buena Vista Hill, tour miles northeast of Mokelumne Hill, has four hydraulic 
claims, which have been Avorked for ten years with much profit. The ground is 
very rich, but the water cannot be taken to the top of the hill, and therefore tne 
expenses are great. 

Rich Gulch, six miles east of Mokelumne Hill, had very rich surface claims 
in early days, and still yields well in a few spots. 

Douglas Flat. — Douglas Flat is situated on the limestone belt, which is 
here a mile wide. The deepest workings are at a depth of 150 feet; and in 
those places the pay began 125 feet from the surface, and was covered with three 
strata of volcanic ash, with intervening strata of coarse gravel. The deep claims 
were worked through shafts, with pumps and hoisting apparatus driven by ditch 
water. The town has been more permanent than most mining camps because 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 57 

of the deep diggings, and according to repute it lias produced moie gold in pro- ' 
portion to its population than any other in the county. 

Among the notable claims are the following : 

The Texas, 500 feet long by 150 feet wide. The pay stratum is from 6 to 
25 feet deep and 125 feet below the surface. Work was commenced in 1853, 
and has continued since with an interruption from 1859 to 1862, caused by 
water. The claim employs 8 or 10 men, and it pays, sometimes, S500, and 
never less than $200, per week above expenses. The total production has 
been about $60,000, and there is pay ground enough to last for 5 or 10 years 
more. A stream of water yielding 16 inches, miners' measure, has been struck 
in the bottom, and a pump with a pipe 14 inches in diameter, -with a five-foot 
stroke, is used for keeping the claim clear. The lowest drain is 60 feet below the 
surface. A tunnel to drain the bottom of the claim w'ould have to be two 
miles long. 

The Union claim, 1,000 feet long by 100 wide, was opened in 1860, and is 
150 feet deep. The average number of men employed was ten, and the average 
w^eekly yield has been about the same as in the preceding claim. On one occa- 
sion they took out 90 ounces or $1,700 per week for several weeks. The 
total yield has been about $40,000. The claim is doing nothing now, but work 
will be resumed. 

The Wild Goose claim, 800 feet long by 100 wide, has been worked to a depth 
of 200 feet without finding bottom or pay. A drift is now being run in hope of 
finding bottom. Four years' work and $15,000 have been spent without any 
return so far. In two drifts of this company the dirt swelled so fast for three 
da\^s that the drifters made no headway. 

The Perseverance claim, 800 by 100 feet, has been worked to a depth of 13C 
feet without finding anything, and the shaft is still going down. A drift run 
into this claim from the adjoining Union claim has struck rich pay gravel. 

The Dashaway, 1,000 by 100 feet, has been worked by an incline 300 feet 
deep perpendicularly from the surface, which is there on a hillside. The claim 
has been worked five years, and has produced about $25,000. Five men are at 
work in it. 

The above are the only companies now working or likely to work soon. 

The Southwestern claim, 1,200 by 100 feet, yielded $750,000, and is worked 
out. 

The Ohio, 800 by 100, yielded $50,000 ; worked out. 

The Harper, 200 by 105 feet, yielded $100,000; worked out. 

The Lone Star, 300 by 100 feet, yielded $100,000; worked out. 

The Holmes and Toll, 100 feet square, yielded $100,000 ; worked out. 

The Hitchcock and Burgess, 100 by 50 feet, yielded $100,000 ; worked out. 

The Skunk Tunnel, 400 by 100 feet, yielded $50,000; worked out. 

Murphy's. — Murphy's, 16 miles from San Andreas, formerly known as Mur- 
phy's Camp, is situated on the limestone belt in a pleasant valley suiToimded by 
low hills. The diggings aro found here in a basin half a mile in diameter, with 
du't and gravel to a depth of 200 feet. The pay stratum was found in some 
places within twenty and in others within 100 feet of the surface ; but little of 
it was high enough to be washed in the natural channels, so the miners hoisted 
the dirt by derricks, or with a horse, rope, and pulley, to thek sluices. After- 
w\ards, however, an open cut 900 feet long and for a considerable distance 40 
feet deep was made. This facilitated the washing of the flat greatly. There 
were a dozen claims which paid high, averaging $100,000 or more each it is said, 
but there is no record of the details. The Rhodes claim, one of the richest, 
produced $250,000 from an area 100 feet long and 40 wide. The deepest 
workings were 100 feet. In one afternoon it paid 37 pounds, and the next 
forenoon 63 pounds of gold. In this claim a tunnel w^as cut through a large 
mass of limestone far below the surface, and in the midst of the mass was 



58 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

fonud a cavity containing a rich auriferous quartz boulder weigliing not less than 
half a ton ; and there was no orifice leading to the cavity large enough to let 
in a stone weighing 20 pounds. There was, besides, some rich gravel in the 
cavity. This statement about the quartz boulder, if it came from some unknown 
source, would deserve no consideration, but it is vouched for by Alonzc Rljodes, 
agent for Wells, Fargo & Co., who is an intelligent gentleman, and is reputed 
to lie most trustworthy. 

Murphy's deriv^es some importance from the fact that it is a stopping point for 
travellers going to and from the Big Trees. 

Some of the gold at Murphy's was quite black on the surface. 

Between Murphy's and Douglas Flat an old channel has been traced for 600 feet. 

Vallecito. — Vallecito, 14 miles from San Andreas, is a level valley, with 
deep diggings, which are covered with three strata of lava or volcanic sand. 
The valley was in its most flourishing condition from 1852 to 1855, and is still 
far from being worked out, but there was a lack of drainage, and the claims 
Avhich would pay for drifting have been exhausted. In 1855 a mammoth tunnel, 
to be 2,700 feet long and 100 feet deep, was commenced, to drain the flat, which 
is about 86 feet deep in the deepest workings. After 400 feet of the mammoth 
tunnel had been cut, a considerable part of the way in very hard greenstone, and 
after $15,000 had been spent, the work was abandoned. In 1862 anew tunnel, 
to be 1,500 feet long and 36 feet below the surface, was commenced, and last 
spring it was completed, though the flume is not j^et ready for washing. The 
flume in and out of the tunnel is to be 2,000 feet long, and the total cost of the 
work is $30,000, exclusive of interest. An ancient channel 100 feet wide has 
been traced for half a mile up and down the valley, and it is considered still rich. 
The ground is held by old miners, who will now wash off their claims through 
the tunnel. No public notice has yet been given of the conditions on which 
miners can tail into the tunnel. 

The shipment of gold from Vallecito is $20,000 per month ; formerly it was 
$60,000. 

The Day and Hunter claim in Vallecito Flat was 100 feet square, and paid 
$25,000. 

The Isabel and Mitchell, of the same size, paid the sanfie amount. 

In the Durham & Co. claim a piece weighing 25 pounds was found. 

There were 50 claims in the flat that paid well, but there is no record of their 
production severally. 

Near Vallecito is a gravel ridge 60 feet deep, and a portion of it paid well in 
hydraulic claims. 

]\IixoR Placer Camps. — At San Domingo, on the limestone belt, four men 
took out $100,000 in three years, commencing in 1863. 

Near Murphy's is Owlbarrow Flat, which is rich and might be drained. 

Indian creek, San Antone, and Cave City, on the limestone belt, have had some 
rich claims, but the diggings are now nearly exhausted. 

Quartz Regulations of Angels. — The quartz reglations of the Angels dis- 
trict provide that a lode claim for one person shall be 100 feet on the vein, with 
150 feet on each side ; and a discoverer is entitled to 50 feet more on the vein 
than an ordinary claimant. The regulations say : 

He or slie [the claimant] shall have the right to all the dips, strikes, or angles of every 
vein originating on the claim. We understand that a. vein originates on or below the sur- 
face running downwards, and not from below running upwards ; so that no person or per- 
sons locating a claim on either side of the boundaries of another shall have a right to a vein 
running through his or their claim that originates, as above understood, on the claim first 
located ; but no man shall have the right to follow a vein on the length of it beyond the 
perpendicular of his boundary. 

Miners shall be compelled to perform at least 10 bona fide days' work on their claim or 
claims during the year commencing from the first day of Ajn'il, J860. Miners failing to do 
so, their claim or claims will be considered forfeited and open to other parties. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 59 

It will be observed that tliere is no express requirement of any -work after tlie 
1st of April, 1861, as a condition of title ; but tlie intention was undoubtedly to 
require 10 days' work on eacli claim within each year, ending with ]\Iarch. 

The records of this district were burned in 1855, and no copies or written 
evidences of title before the fire are preserved. 

There are 57 quartz claims on record in the district, and 55 of them bear date 
previous to 18C4. In that year no claim was made ; in 1SG5, one ; one in 1866 ; 
and none in 1867 up to June 1. 

Quartz Regulations of San^ Axdreas. — The following are extracts from 
the miners' regulations of the San Andreas district for ledge mining : 

Claims in said district shall be 200 feet ia length on the lead, Avith all its dips, spurs, and 
angles, with 300 feet in width on the surface. 

Shareholders shall he compelled to perform one day's labor for each 200 feet held or claimed 
by them, or its value iu improvements thereon, in each month, from the tirst day of May to 
the first day of November in each year ; if they fail so to do their claim shall be considered 
forfeited and open to entry by other parties, unless the first parties shall have been prevented 
by sickness of themselves or families from complying with this law. When a company 
shall have put $500 worth of work on a claim the same may be held over for one year, and 
no longer, by a renewal of the record of said claim, made at any date previous to the first 
day of May of each year, during which year the parties owning such claim shall not be com- 
pelled to perform any work on the same. 

These regulations were adopted in ]\[arch, 1866 j and there are 57 lode claims 
recorded, the latest dated iu 1865. There is no quartz mine in operation in 
the district, save at Wilson's creek, where there are two an-astras at work. 

Quartz SIining in Calaveras. — The most noted quartz mines of Cala- 
veras county are the Morgan, the Reserve, the Enterprise, the South Carolina, 
the Stanislaus, the Union, and the Carson Creek, at Carson Hill ; the Bovee, 
the Angels, the Hill, and the Sickles, at Angels ; all on the- mother lode ; and 
tlie Woodhouse, near AVest Point. A number of rich veins have been found 
near tire limestone belt, but their wealth lias been confined to pockets. 

Morgan. — The Morgan mine, 500 feet long, on the mother lode, was dis- 
covered in 1850 by a man named Ilance, who took in six partners, Morgan 
being the president. The discovery was made on the summit of Carson Hill, 
and the rock was extremely rich ; indeed, if the statements of those who lived 
at the place are to be taken, the gold was abundant beyond any parallel. Much 
of it was taken out in mortars, and not i;nfrequently there were so many strings 
of gold in the rock that cold chisels had to be used to cut them. On one occa- 
sion gold to the amount of 6110,000 was thrown down at one blast. The news 
filled the State with excitement. The town of Melones, on the southern side of 
the hill, became the largest mining camp in the State, with a population vari- 
ously estimated from 3,000 to 5,000. People came in crow'ds to see the mine. 
Robinson's feiTy, on the Stanislaus river, two miles south of the place, took 
in $10,000 for femage in six weeks. From February, 1850, till December, 
1851, the production continued uninterrupted and with very little decline. In 
that time, according to Thomas Deare, who has lived at the mine longer than 
any other person, $2,800,000 were extracted and immense sums were stolen. It 
is reported of one Mexican miner that he stole $1,500 in one day from the arras- 
tra which he had iu charge, and paid it the next day for a horse. AH the rock 
too poor for the hand mortar was ground in arrastras, and it is said that 50 of 
them were running at one time. The facilities for stealing were great and the 
temptation strong. Gambling was carried to a great extent and gold seemed 
to. have lost its value. The miners were mostly Mexicans, who, as a class, were 
not looked upon with much favor by American miners ; but they had had some 
experience in this kind of mining and their services were indispensable. They 
could pick up the lumps of gold in the mine, or they could take handfulls of 
amalgam from the arrastra with little fear of detection. As for the amount 
taken ni this way, it could never be ascertained, but that it was great was 
assumed in the conunon conversation of the miners themselves. 



fiO RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The vast production was too great to he witnessed in peace. Several hundred 
ruffians l)anded tlieniselves together under the lead of Billy Mulligan and 
others of his kind and drove away the owners of the mine 1>y force and worked 
it themselves. A suit to eject them Avas commenced, and after nine months 
their Avork was stopped hy injunction, and in the spring of 1853 final judgment 
was rendered in favor of Morgan and his associates. Morgan then Avent to Eng- 
land to sell the mine, but more litigation sprang up about the title, and there 
was no final decision and very little AVork till the spring of 1867, the mine hav- 
ing lain idle for nearly 15 years. The AA^ork has lately been recommenced, 
and report says some marA'ellously rich rock has been taken out, but the super- 
intendent did not consider himself authorized to give the precise facts for publi- 
cation. 

The mine is near the summit of the hill and includes two \^eins, Avhich unite 
100 feet beloAV the surface. One is about six feet Avide and called the stratified 
vein, because of numerous seams parallel Avith the Avails ; the other is 40 feet 
wide and is called the boulder vein, because the quartz in it is solid and boulder- 
like. A tunnel IGO feet long strikes the vein 100 feet beloAV the outcroppings, 
and from this drifts liaA^e been run 200 feet on the vein, finding pay rock all the 
way. The richest rock is a talcose slate on the foot-Avall. The mine can be 
worked conveniently by tunnels to a depth of 500 or 600 feet. There is no 
mill noAv, but the proprietors propose to erect one, and they are noAV taking out 
rock. In the middle of June they had 5,000 tons already out. 

Reserve. — Immediately south of the Morgan is the reser\'e mine, 980 feet 
long. This mine Avas opened in 1860 by a tunnel 300 feet long and a shaft 135 
feet deep, and common report says that 3,000 tons of talcose slate AA^ere crusted 
and $200,000 obtained. A report made by a French mining engineer to the 
Melones and Stanislaus Mining Company, AAdiich is better authority than common 
report, says the yield has been $130,000. Mr. Coignet, the author of the report, 
says : 

The lead worked at the Reserve belongs to that order of vein which runs west 15° uorth, 
east 15^^ south, and is rich iu ore throughout its whole extent. At the walling, [foot-wall,] 
and for many feet in width, the slate formations are impregnated with auriferous pyrites, partly 
decomposed near the surface. * * * j ^y^s told on the spot that the slate formations of 
the casings throughout the length of the claim did not pay less than $18 per ton at the mill, 
and that the ore formerly extracted contained from $90 to $300 per ton. 

Enterprise. — The Enterprise, 900 feet, adjoining the Reserve on the south, 
has been opened by a tunnel Avhich runs 450 feet on the lode. There is no mill 
connected Avith the mine, nor is any Avork being done. 

South Carolina. — Tiie South Carolina, 2,550 feet long, adjoins the Enter- 
prise. The A-ein is seven feet Avide, and has been opened by drifts running 580 
feet on the lode, 280 feet beloAv the surface, in pay chimney all the Avay. The 
mine AA'as first Avorked, from 1850 to 1853, by some Mexicans under a lease, Avho 
accounted at the rate of $85 per ton ; but rumor says that the actual yield Avas 
much larger, and that the total amount Avhich they took out AA^as $400,000, and 
that they got $40,000 in one Aveek from their arrastras. In one period of sca'cu 
months they accounted for $119,000, and paid over, according to contract, one- 
half, or $59,500 ; but the owners Avere dissatisfied, and terminated the lease in 
1853, and the mine, notwithstanding the general belief in its great Avealth, stood 
still fi\'e years. In the spring and summer of 1858 a ten-stamp mill ran for three 
months and took $19,000, and then the Avork Avas stopped by litigation. The 
last rock taken out paid $40 per ton. The mill is noAV in ruins, and no AVork is 
being done. Mr. Coignet says of the South Carolina : 

The quartz is generally white-bladed, foliated with green, slaty streaks, and assuming a 
striped appearance. It is in these slate formations that the flattened or laminated leaves of 
gold are found. Sometimes the quartz is compact and yellowish, but then it is nearly always 
near an intersection. Against the Availing [foot-wallj of these leads the slates are of a j'el- 
lowl)rown, very talcose, and perforated by cubical holes, indicative of deposits of i-otten iron 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 61 

pyrites. These are ductibic, and can be cut with a kuife, Between their strata is found 
some bluish quartz surrounded by pure gold. Ou the whole line of the leads, beginning 
at the South Carolina claim and up to the Hope, where they still exhibit the same character, 
it may be said that these slaty formations, in a breadth of several feet from the walling of the 
lead, contain at least $18 per ton. 

Staxislatjs. — The Stanislaus mine, 1,200 feet long, is on the middle branch 
of the mother lode, immediately north of the Stanislaus river. At this claim the 
vein runs nearly north and south, and dips to the east at an angle of 75 degrees. 
The mine has been opened by three tunnels, one 400 feet long and two of 
100 feet each, and by several shafts running down from the tunnels. The 
quartz is remarkable for containing much gold in the form of a telluride, which, 
though very rich, has never been worked so as to yield much. Mr. Coignet, 
who exatnined the mine, says : 

The quartz croppings are white, with reddish tints in the cracks, and containing crystals 
of feldspar, of carbonate of lime, and of iron. The free gold which had been found on the 
surface changed readily into tellurets of gold and silver, and into auriferous iron pyrites, 
which, by their decomposition when in contact with the atmosphere, have spread a reddish 
hue over the rock. In these ledges, among which the Stanislaus offers an example, the thick- 
ness of the quartz varies considerably, both in its course and incline, whereas the roofing 
[hanging wall] remains perfectly regular. Thus, from the middle of the tunnel to within a 
few feet of the shaft, at the northern extremity of French and Wood's claim, the croppings 
have a thickness of more than six feet, whilst beyond that space the quartz disappears in the 
slate, without, however, causing a break in the lead. At the bottom of the shaft just men- 
tioned the lead lias a depth of six inches and contains numerous crystals of tellurets. At 
120 feet south of the entrance to the middle tunnel a shaft was formerly sunk by Mexicans, 
by means of which a large sum was taken. There also the quartz has disappe.ared, and the 
ore is found in the slate. 

The rich deposits of the lead are found in chimneys Avith a horizontal incline of about 31 
degrees to the south in the walling, [foot-wall,] and in the smalt quartz feeders which follow 
the line of the slate formations, and at their junction with the principal leads. It is of im- 
portance to observe, with regard to this mineral system, that tellurets are found exclusively 
in the quartz which contains crystals of feldspar and carbonates of lime and of iron ; and 
lience, whenever these minerals are met with, the speedy appearance of ore may be relied 
upon. 

The compact quartz of the lead is often found to contain, and, in fact, generally does con- 
tain, auriferous iron pyrites, which are sometimes of great richness. The slate formations in 
which the lead is imbedded are also full of iron pyrites, but contain no gold, or perhaps a 
very small amount. The difference between these two kinds of pyrites is such that they can 
be readily distinguished from each other. The richest pyrites, in fact, seldom crystalize very 
distmctly, being in compact masses, which clearly exhibit the numerous lines of cleavage ; 
they are very bright, and have a very distinct yellowish appearance. The indifferent pyrites, 
on the contrary, are found in well-defined cubical crystalizations, isolated, and with a sharp 
edge, and usually disseminated through the slate formations. 

Throughout the length of the zone [the main pay chimney] the roofing [the hanging 
wall] is well defined, but the walling [the foot wall] is irregular, and composed of quartz 
feeders which follow the stratification of the slate formations and finally unite with small 
quartz veins containing feldspar, carbonates of lime, and, as is the case always, some tellu- 
rets. The association of these minerals is so perfectly verified that when one is met there is 
a certainty of the presence of the others at a short distance. # » * * 

These ores are sometimes of an extraordinary value; thus, during my visit to Melones, an 
assay which I made myself on four ounces of sulphurets and tellurets, taken from a concen- 
tration of second-class ores, yielded .|150 of gold and $1 of silver, or about $17,500 to the 
ton of concentrated sulphurets. * * * J^o process of economical manipulation of this 
class of ores has, as jet, been found without inflicting serious losses. The concentration 
which has to be resorted to, costly in itself, still permits the escape of a large portion of the 
precious metals. 

Charles A. Stetefeldt, a mini-ng engineer and metallurgist, to whom speci- 
mens of the ore from the Stanislaus mine were submitted, wrote a report, in which 
he said : 

These ores are of extraordinary interest for the mineralogist and metallurgist, since besides 
their great richness in native gold, they contain also telluric gold and silver in such quan- 
tities as have never before been known. Telluric ores of all kinds are extremely rare, and 
found only in small quantities at the following places : at Offenbanya, Salathna, and Nag- 
yag, in Transylvania ; at Schemnitz, in Hungary; at the Sawodinsky mines, in the Altai 
mountains ; and at Spottsylvania, in Virginia. But at none of these places are the telluric 



62 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

ores as important as in the Stanislaiis mine ; on the contrary, the quantity found in them is 
so small that no regular process for their reduction can be said to be in practice. * * 

The samples of ore from the Stanislaus mine, shown to me by you, contain large quantities 
of sylvanite or graphic tellurium, of steel-gray color and metallic lustre, by far the richest 
tellurium ore, and smaller quantities of the tellurium of lead, recognizable by its tin-white 
color and groat lustre. It is probable that other con.binations of tellurium will also be found 
on a closer examination of the ores. * * # # # # 

Science indicates and your own experience fully proves that the ores are not suitable for 
amalgamation. Quicksilver not only fails to absorb any portion of the gold contained in the 
telluric combinations, but the presence of the latter prevents the quicksilver from producing 
its natural efiecteven upon the native gold, so that even of the latter a comparatively small 
percentage only can be obtained by amalgan-ation. Nor would the matter be much helped 
by separating the tellurium, were that practicable, by roasting, for the Stanislaus ores contain 
a considerable amount of tellurid of lead, and the lead, as is well known, is most injurious 
to amalgamation. # » # ^I^p distribution of the ores in the vein renders a 

separation of them by hand into three or more different qualities, according to richness, com- 
paratively easy and inexpensive. These different qualities I would submit separately to a 
process of wet concentration, which for the richer ores would have to be carried on with 
extreme care. #» ****** 

For the iirst qualities, which contain only a small amount of gangue, I should recommend 
cupellation with lead. This process consists in melting a quantity of lead in a cupelling 
furnace and gradually adding the finely-cruslied ore as soon as the lead begins to oxydize, 
and a coating of litharge is thereby formed on the surface. The ore floats about on the molten 
lead, and the base metals become oxydized through contact with the atmospheric air and 
with the litharge or oxyd of lead, which has a tendency to give up its oxygen. The oxyda- 
tion of the base metals immediately liberates the gold and silver, which combine with the 
molten lead and are retained by it while the oxydized base metals form with the litharge a 
thoroughly fluid slag, which can be raked off ; as much further ore can then bo added as the 
lead is capable of absorbing. 

If experience should show that a part of the tellurium also passes into the molten lead m a 
metallic state, instead of at once oxydizing and combining with the litharge, it will then be 
necessary to carry on all the earlier stages of the cupelling process in furnaces especially 
constructed for that purpose. The lead which has absorbed all the gold and silver out of the 
ore can be worked in these furnaces as long as necessary to oxydize all the tellurium, which 
will then gradually form tellurite of lead, and be raked off like the first slag formed in the 
beginning of the process. The purified lead can then be removed to the cupelling furnace 
and the cupellation be proceeded with in the ordinary manner. 

Santa Ceuz. — The Santa Cruz mine is 1,500 feet long on tlie western branch 
of the mother lode, north of the Stanislaus river. This vein is barren so far as 
examined, except in the walls, where it is crossed by two smaller veins, which 
run west 15° north. Some of the rock has jnelded $300 per ton. A tunnel 240 
feet long has l)ecn cut, reaching the vein. No work is l^eing done now. 

TJNiOiSr. — The Union mine, 400 feet, is on Carson Hill, and the vein is sup- 
posed to be a branch of the mother lode. The vein is 30 feet wide in places, 
but the best i)ay (from $20 to $70 per ton) has been found in a seam of talcose 
slate from two to four feet thick, on the hanging wall. A 20-stamp steam mill 
is being built now. 

Carsox Ckeek. — The Carson Creek quartz mine, situated on a branch of 
the mother lode, near the mouth of Carson creek, is 1,000 feet long. The vein 
is 12 feet wide for 600 feet, but then pinches out till it is only an inch or 
two thick. The thick part of the claim has been prospected to an average depth 
of 40 feet, and rock has been found nearly all along to pay $7 or $8 per ton, 
exclusive of a few rich pockets. The wall is in places as smooth as glass. There 
are parts of the vein where the quartz contains enough argentiferous galena to 
yield 60 ounces of silver to the ton. There is on the claim a 10-stamp mill, 
which has heretofore been used for dry crushing, but is now being remodelled for 
wet crushing. The pulp, after passing from the battery and over copper-plate, 
is to be settled in tanks, from which the sand will be taken to be ground in Hep- 
burn pans and amalgamated afterwards in arrastras with iron floors and stone drags. 

BovEE. — The Bovee mine, 465 feet long, at Angelo, includes four veins which 
here represent the mother lode. The main vein seems to be talcose slate near the 
surface, and is from 20 to 30 feet wide. The first vein to the west of this is two 
and a half feet wide, and baiTcn, and underlies a heavy bed of talc, three and a 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 63 

half feet wide. The next vein is three feet wide, and contains $8 or $10 rock. 
Then come two feet of slate, beyond which is a vein 15 feet wide, with hard 
white haiTcn qnartz on the hanging wall. At a depth of 120 feet it is only three 
feet thick,' and carries rich snlphurets in spots. The character at that depth 
changes from a brittle Avhite to a blueish, spermaceti-like quartz, which promises 
well. The main vein is a hard, white, barren qnartz, Avith occasional spots of 
snlphurets. It is supposed from the dip of these veins that they Avill meet and 
unite about 400 feet below the surface. At the surface they are about 200 feet 
apart between the outer lines. 

The deepest workings are 130 feet down, and at 60 feet drifts have been run 
350 feet on the vein. All the rock pays not less than 66 per ton ; but there are 
two pay chimneys, which appear to be nearly vertical, and which paid $16 near 
the surface, and yield $26 per ton at a depth of 120 feet. Seams of slate appear 
on the surface, but are not found below. Talc is found mixed Avith the quartz, 
and is rich in snlphurets. 

As soon as a blast is let off in the mine there are men Avho set to Avork to break 
and select the rock, throAving aside all the barren stuif, of Avhich there is consid- 
erable. This breaking and selection needs to be done Avithout delay, because 
after the rock has been shovelled about it becomes so dirty that its quality does 
not show Avithout Avashing. 

This mine Avas long knoAVn by the name of its first OAA'ner, JMr. "Winters, and 
according to rumor its gross yield under his management Avas $500,000. He 
worked the claim along its A\'hole length by open cut ; and in his early Avorkings 
by picking the rock, he obtained $2,000 or $3,000 per ton in an aiTastra. No 
such vein stone can be found in it uoaa'; though it is still considered a rich and 
very A^aluable mine. 

The Bovce mill has 10 stamps of 500 pounds each, driven at the speed of 
75 bloAvs per minute, Avith eight inches drop. The screen is of Avire No. 
20. The gold is amalgamated in the mortar Avith loose quicksilver, and 
beloAv the screen there is a copper plate, after passing Avhich the pnlp goes 
into a tank Avhere the cuiTcnt is aiTested, and through another Avhere the cun-ent 
at the surface is not arrested — that is, there is a steady discharge. For a time 
Mr. BoA'ce ran the pulp through three tanks, one below the other, Avith a con- 
stant discharge from each ; but the experiment satisfied him that the tAvo last did 
not pay. The first tank bcloAv the mortar catches coarse sand; the second 
catches fine sand ; and the third and fourth fill up Avith slum that does not pay 
to Avork. The sands from the first two tanks are shovelled upon a platform, 
from Avhich they are taken to charge the Wheeler & Randall pans, four feet in 
• diameter, in Avhich they are ground in charges of 800 pounds each for three hours. 
Half an hour before the grinding is done the mullers are raised a little, and four 
pounds of quicksilver are put in. The pulp Avhile in the pan is as thick as it 
can be Avorkcd conveniently. To each charge a large peck of hot coal and Avood 
ashes from under the grate are added, and steam is throAvn into the pulp. • 
Wheeler, the inventor of the pan, recommends the introduction of 200 pounds of 
quicksih^er at the commencement of the grinding. Bovee uses only four, intro- 
duced near the close of the grinding. In Mr. Bovee's opinion, the grinding is 
facilitated and hastened by keeping the pulp nearly to the boiling point as long 
as it is in the pans. Three of Knox's pans are used as settlers for each grinding 
pan. The runs last for tAvo Aveeks. If the run lasts foiu- AA'eeks a larger pro- 
portion of the quicksilA'Cr is lost, and that Avhich is saved is corrupt or dirty. 

Besides the stamp and pan mill, there is an an'astra mill with 15 arrastras, 
driven by 61 inches of Avater on an overshot Avheel 30 feet in diameter and tlu'ee 
feet wide. The rock is crushed in the stamp mill as fine as peas for the arras- 
tras, in which it is ground for six hours in charges of 280 pounds each. The 
yield in the pans is 25 per cent, greater than in the arrastras. 

Angels. — The mine of the Angels Quartz Mining Company is 900 feet long, 



64 . EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

and the workini? vein 1ms an average width of 15 feet of talcose slate mixed 
with quartz. The quartz-lode is 150 feet west at the surface, and it is supposed 
that the two will meet about 300 feet from the surface. There is a good gouge 
on both sides and clay slate walls to the vein. The mine has been worked for 
10 years, and is noAV yielding SS per ton, though assays show that the rock con- 
tains from $15 to $20, The gold is very fine. The mine has a 30-stamp steam 
mill, with a Blake crusher to prepare the rock for the stamps, two Wheeler pans 
for grinding, a Beldcn settler, and lately an experiment has been tried with one 
of llesse's pans. The pulp is discharged from the mortar through a slot screen, 
the orifices being as wide as those in a No. 40 wire screen. The advantage of 
the slot screen is that it discharges more freel}', as the holes are not plugged up 
by the sulphurets. The deepest workings are 186 feet deep, and the drifts ex- 
tend along the vein 350 feet, in pay all the way. Most of the early workings 
were in open cut, and the rock was richer at the surface than in the lo^s•er levels. 

Hill. — Dr. Hill's mine, 412 feet long, is also working on the talcose slate 
vein, which averages 15 feet wide, and contains much silicate of lime, besides 
quartz, the slate occup^'ing a very subordinate portion here. The proprieter of 
the mine says that most of the gold is found in threads of sulphate of barytes, 
and in bunches of silicate of lime. AVork was commenced on the mine in 
1857 Avith arrastras, and has been contini;ed since with the exception of three 
years. The total production is estimated at $250,000, and the amount spent 
in the mine, $300,000. There is now a 12-stamp mill at Avork on it. The 
depth from the dies in the mortar to the discharge is 14 inches, and the 
stamps Avlien raised to their highest point are tAvo inches deep in the Avater. For 
a time no screen Avas used, but the result of the experiment Avas not satisfactory. 
The present screen is of No. 60 Avire. Ilvmter's amalgamator and Hill's pan are 
used. The latter, named after its inventor, the owner of this mine, is a circular 
copper dish six feet in diameter, six inches deep. A section through the centre 
represents a segment of an OA'al. This bowl rcA'olves horizontally on a cen- 
tral axis, and in the centre is a cup to hold quicksih^er. The pan makes 18 
rcA^olutions per minute. The aaIioIc surface of the pan is coA'ered Avitli amalgam. 
One of these pans at the mill of the Angels Quartz Mining Compau}- saves $200 
per month, it is said. In Hill's mine there are numerous horses of barren slate, 
and in one place a trachytic dike 15 feet thick crosses the lode running Avest- 
nortliAvest and east-southeast. About five per cent, of the pay rock consists of 
sulphurets. The silicate of lime gives a milky look to the pulp as it comes from 
the mortar. 

Stickles. — The Stickles mine, 400 feet long, near the Ioaa'u of Angels, on 
the mother lode, Avhich is there 20 feet thick, is quartz and pay all the Avay 
through, Avith numerous seams of slate. The deepest Avorkings are 80 feet beloAV 
the suriace, and drifts liaA'C been run 120 feet on the A^cin, in pay rock all the 
Avay. There is a 10-stamp mill in operation on the mine. 

IJtica. — The Utica, 600 feet long, is OAAmed in San Francisco. There Avas a 
nine-stamp mill Avhich did not paj^, and has been moA'cd aAva}^ The deepest 
AVorkings are 60 feet from the surface. 

LiGHTXEK. — The Lightner mine, 400 feet long, oAvned in San Francisco, Avas 
Avorked in open cut for three or four years to a depth of 70 feet Avitli a 10-starap 
mill, but the expenses Avere a trifle more than the receipts, and so the mill Avas 
moA'cd aAvay and the mine left idle. If Avages Averc a little lower this mine 
Avould pay, for, according to the general opinion in the neighborhood, there is a 
large body of rock that Avill yield at least $4 or $5 per ton, and probably $6 or $8. 

Ella. — The Ella mine (knoAvn also by the names of the CahiA'cras, the 
Terrific, and the Demorest) is seven miles northAvest of Angels, on a vein Avhicli 
is eight feet Avide aud crops out along the surface for 800 or 1,000 feet. The 
vein-stone is a hard ribbon rock, rich in sulphurets, Avith a seam of barren 
" bastard quartz" in the middle. The ribbon rock yields $8 per ton. The foot 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 65 

wall is black slate and the hanging wall green-stone. A shaft has been sunk 
110 feet, and drifts have been run 35 feet on the vein. The mine is in 
a deep ravine at the foot of Bear mountain, with steep hills on both sides. 
There is a 10-stamp mill, but both mine and mill are now standing idle. 

At tills mine an experiment was tried of roasting the rock with superheated 
steam. A furnace was built 20 feet high and 16 feet in diameter externally, 
with an ore chamber seven feet wide at the bottom, nine feet at the top, 
and 16 feet high. The fire boxes were on the sides of the ore chamber near 
the bottom, and over the grating ran a steam pipe full of orifices, through which 
steam could escape. The rock as it came from the mine was thrown into this 
fm-nace, and was roasted from 40 to 70 hours at a red heat with a steady dis- 
charge of superheated steam from the pipes. The heat was reduced Isy shut- 
ting off the steam, or increased by letting on more. The expense of roasting in 
this method was $2 per ton, the price of wood — the only fuel used — being $3 50 
per cord. The sulphurets were completely desulphurized by this method, and 
the battery crushed twice as much in a day as of the run rock. The gold in 
the roasted ore amalgamated readilj^, but the quicksilver was lost. The experi- 
ment cost $25,000, and was regarded as a failure. 

West Poikt. — West Point is a quartz mining to\vn between the middle 
and the north fork of the Mokelumne river, eastward from j\Iokelumne Hill, 
from which it is 12 miles distant in a direct line, and 16 miles by the road. 
Its elevation is about 2,800 feet above the sea. The bed rock is granite, and 
the limestone belt lies three miles to the west. Quartz mining is conducted here 
on a peculiar system. The lodes are narrow and rich in sulphurets, and their 
wealth is confined chiefly to pockets. Mining and milling are separate occupa- 
tions. One set of men get quartz, and another set own mills and do custom- 
work. The " pockety" character of the veins renders mining, with the majority, 
a very irregular, if not a very uncertain business ; and there is not one vein in 
ten, even among those which have yielded large sums, that will furnish steady 
employment to a mill. The custom among the '' pocket" miners is to hunt for 
pockets near the surface, and when they have found one they clean it out care- 
ful^, going down seldom more than 50 feet; and having pounded out the coarsest 
gold in a hand mortar, and sent the quartz containing the finer particles to a 
custom mill, they leave that spot and hunt for another pocket near the surface. 
The experience of those who have gone down in search of other pockets has not 
been cncourging. The prospecter lays bare as much of the surface of the vein 
as he can, and goes picking along in search of a visible speck of gold, and iiaving 
found that, he makes a careful search for a pocket in the neighborhood. When; 
these pocket miners are successful they get agoodlotof money at once, and many 
of them live high till it is gone, and then the}' may have very plain meals for tlireCj. 
six, or nine months, before they come on another treasure. It is said, however, 
that they have more money to spend than any other class of miners in Calaveras 
county. There are some mines here which give regular employment to mills-: 
owned by the same proprietors, but pocket mining and custom milling are fol- 
lowed more extensive here relatively than in any other part of the State. There 
are about 100 men who make pocket mining their only business. If the quartz 
does not yield $15 per ton it will not pay them; and they can tell by a brief 
examination within a dollar or two of the yield per ton. When they have found 
something worthy of examination, they pound up a fair sample in a hand mortar 
and boil it in nitric acid, as a rude mode of assay. 

In the neighborhood of West Point there are several hundred veins that have 
liad rich pockets, and one hill 400 feet across has three dozen such veins. In 
many of them the gold is so fine that none of it can be obtained in a hand mortar. 
The mining laws of West Point give 200 feet on a vein to a claim, and requiro.' 
one day's work every month to hold il claim. 



6S EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Fisher's :mill. — Fislicr's custom mill, one mile southeast from "West Point, 
has been running 11 years. It is driven by water-power, has two stamps and 
two an-astras, charges $7 per ton for working rock, and works two tons per 
day, with the services of one man. The whole establishment cost about $2,000. 

Harris's mill. — Haras's custom mill, on Sandy gulch, a mile and a quarter 
west of West Point, has five stamps, four Brevoort pans, and three patent con- 
centrators, and charges So per ton for working rock. This mill -was built four 
or five years ago, and has been running almost constantly. 

Belcher's mill. — The Belcher custom mill, a mile and three-quarters south- 
east of West Point, has eight stamp>s, but does not run regularly because of the 
difficulty of getting a steady supply of water. 

Lacet's mill. — Lacey's mill has five stamps, and does custom work onl v. 

Skull Flat mill. — The Skull Flat mill is two miles east of West Point, has 
ten stamps, goes by water, amalgamates in the mortar and in copper-plates, and 
uses two Hungerford's concentrators, but does nothing as yet with the concen- 
trated tailings. The Skull Flat Company owns claims on six or seven veins, the 
widest not over two feet, and a depth of 100 feet has been reached in several 
of them. The veins run north and south, and the rock pays $30 or $35. 

Oarletox. — The Carleton mine, a mile and a half northwest of West Point, 
is on a vein a foot wide. There are two arrastras which were built in 1866, and 
crush and amalgamate each a ton per day. 

Vance and Mina Bica. — Vance's mill, five miles west of West Point, has 
eight stamps, and is standing idle. The Mina Bica has two veins two feet thick, 
with very hard quartz, and much water in the lower levels. The mill has 10 
stamps and 10 Baus's pans. The power is steam. Both mine and mill ai'c 
standing idle. 

Morris's mill. — Morris's mill, near West Point, has two arrastras and a 
roasting furnace. All the ore is roasted, and according to report the yield is $50 
per ton, whereas Avithout roasting it yields onh' $3. 

IvfosQUiTO. — The Mosquito mine, 1,500 feet long, is five miles west of West 
Point, on a vein five feet wide in slate. A large quantity of rock, yielding $7 
per ton, was obtained near the surface ; and now a tunnel is being cut to open 
the mine to a considerable depth. The mill was built in 1857, and was rebuilt 
in 1863. It has 15 stamps, and is standing idle. 

Railroad Flat mill. — The Bailroad Flat custom mill, 13 miles east of 
Mokelumne Hill, has 10 stamps, Avas built in 1866, and does not get enough 
business to keep it running constantly. The veins in the vicinity have not 
been well opened. 

Woodhouse. — The Woodhouse mine, 5,000 feet long, is between the forks of 
the Mokelumne river, 1 4 J miles by the road, eastward from JMokelumne Hill. The 
vein is four feet Avide, runs north and south, and dips to the Avcst at an angle of 45°. 
The Avails on both sides are granite, and there is a Avhite clay gouge, Avhich is 
generally found on the foot Avail. The croppings of the vein shoAv for tAvo or 
three miles. The pay quartz is Avhite near the surface, and at greater depth is 
bluish and rich in sulphurets. The barren quartz is Avhite, glassy, and coarse- 
grained. The first pay chimney is found 1,800 feet from the south fork of the 
Mokelumne river, (wliicli is the l)0undary of the claim,) and 900 feet aboA^e its 
IcA'cl on the mountain side. This chimney is 150 feet long horizontally. After 
an interval of 600 feet another chimney is found, and this one is 400 feet long, 
beyond Avhicli the lode is Itarren for 200 feet, and then it splits up for 1,000 feet 
into small branches less than a foot Avide. These contain good pay, and one 
shaft has been sunk 100 feet to Avork them. Beyond this place the vein has not 
been prospected. The rock from the different chimneys can be distinguished by 
persons familiar Avith the mine. All the rock in the pay chimneys is worked 
The vein is crossed by several trap dikes Avhich are nearly vertical, dipping 
slightly to the south. They appear to bear no relation to the position of the pay 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 67 

cliimnej^s ; that is, the appearance of a dike is not considered an indication of the 
proximity of a chimney. Most of the work has been done through cross-tunnels 
which strike the vein 200 or 300 feet from the sui-fixce. The mine has a 15- 
stamp mill, which has crushed 14,000 tons of rock and taken out $140,000. After 
the pulp has been amalgamated in the mortar and on copper-plates, it is concen- 
trated on blankets, and the l)lankct '\^•ashing■3 are ground and amalgamated in 
five Brevoort pans. The mill is driven b}'^ two 30-foot overshot water wheels. 
There is a considerable quantity of loose or ^' float" rock along the surface of the 
vein, and 3,000 feet of 11-incli iron pipe are to be obtained for the purpose of 
washing this float rock by hydraulic process. jMuch of the gold in the rock from 
the lower levels is lost in the sulphurets, and an agreement has been made for 
the erection of a revolving furnace to roast 15 tons in 24 hours, at a cost of $3 
per ton. 

Holmes. — The Holmes mine, 1,600 feet long, south of the TVoodhouse and 
adjoining it, was opened in 1866. The vein is eight feet wide, and has been 
opened by tunnel along a length of 500 feet. The mine has a 10-stamp mill. 
The sulpluu'ets contain from §300 to 81,300 per ton. 

BoSTOX. — The Boston mine adjoins the Woodhouse on the north, and was 
worked by an eight-stamp mill in 1853, but did not pa}'. The mill was washed 
away afterwards. Some Mexicans are now at work on the mine, with two 
arrastras driven by water. They obtain their rock from small rich chimneys. 

Quail Hill. — Quail Hill, near the western line of the county, has a large 
deposit of auriferous talcose slate, containing seams of quartz and copper ore. It 
is not a well-defined vein, but the general course appears to be northwest and 
southeast, and the dip 60° to the northeast. The width is about 60 feet. Much 
of the surface has been w^ashed in sluices, -tt-hioh paid at times very well. The 
total yield in sluices was not less than $25,000, and besides the gold 150 tons 
of good copper ore were obtained. This mine is the property of a San Francisco 
company, which is now building a 20-stamp mill and constructing a ditch 11 
miles long from Salt Spring reservoir.* 

*' Professor Silliman, in a paper read before the California Academy of Natural Sciences, 
said : 

In the search for ores of copper which occurred in California in what is now known as the 
copper belt of the Lower Sierras, deposits of iron rust, as they were called by the miners, 
were observed at numerous points far below the range of the main gold belt of the Sierras. 
Several of these ochraceous deposits had been previously located by prospecting miners for 
gold before there was any knowledge or suspicion even of the existence of ores of copper in 
connection with them. It was a matter of common observation that certain gulches or water- 
courses in the neighborhood of these rusty deposits were rich in placer gold, having been 
worked for gold from an early date. The search for copper in this kind of deposit was not 
commercially successful, although there were shipments of green and blue carbonates of 
copper, red oxyd,and metallic copper, to a limited extent from both the localities here referred 
to, (the Harpending mine in Placer county, and the Quail Hill in Calaveras, ) the metal from 
which was known to contain a notable value of gold and silvei", stated to be about $50 to the 
ton of ore. This search for copper has however opened up these deposits so as to display 
their character in a conspicuous manner. 

The rocks appear to have been originally talcose and chloritic schists, sometimes mica- 
ceous, enclosing masses of argillite, and of quartz, which appears to have been massive 
enough at certain points to assume the character of a vein, and parallel to the stratification, 
which has the usual northwestern strike and easterly dip of the region. All this mass of 
material, Avhich at Quail Hill is certainly 300 feet wide, and possibly twice that, and 
with a linear extent exceeding 1,000 feet, appears to have been very highly impregnated 
or mineralized bj- sulphurets, chiefly of iron, with a portion of copper, zinc, and lead. 
The sulphurets have undergone almost total decomposition throughout the entire mass, 
leaving soft ochraceous deposits of a rusty red and yellow color, and staining the rocks with 
brilliant color, a peculiarity which the miners have characterized by the name of "calico 
rocks." This decomposition or oxydation of the sulphurets has extended to a point as low 
as atmospheric influences extend, or probably to a point where water is permanently found, 
which at Quail Hill is assumed to be about 170 feet below the outcrop of the mass. Dikes 
of porphyry and of other rocks commonly called intrusive are seen dividing these great ore 
channels in a direction conformable to the line of strike. But the decomposition which has 



68 KESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Collier. — The Collier claim, one mile southeast of Quail Hill, is similar ia 
character to the preceding mine, and has been worked in the same manner. 
The total yield is estimated at 610,000. It is said that if the mill at Quail 
Hill succeeds one will be built here- 
affected other portions of the ore channel appears also to have changed them, for they are 
found to be reduced completely to the condition of kaolin and lithromarge, or kindred altera- 
tions of feldspathic rocks. The outlines of the feldspar crystals are still easily distinguished, 
although the mass of the dikes is completely friable. 

In another paper on the mine Professor Silliman says the explorations made for copper 
have laid open the deposit sufficiently to disclose clearly its true nature, extent, and ahuost 
incalculable value in gold and silver. It is an ore channel, conformable like all the copper 
mines of the region to the line of strike of the rocks, not less, probably, than 300 feet in 
■width, and perhaps more than twice that width. Its eastern wall is distinctly seen in the 
open cut, as shown in the section, dipping easterly about 70°. The western wall has 
never been seen, but is certainly pretty far down the slope, on the western side. The 
contents of this enormous channel of ore-bearing ground, so far as exposed, are entirely 
decomposed by chemical agency, so that they offer to the miner and geologist one of the 
most remarkable cases known of the total destruction of metallic sulphurets which plainly 
once filled the whole chasm, now converted into gossans or oxides of iron of various colors, 
and carbonates of copper, mingled with masses of spongy and white quartz, of talcose and 
chloritic rocks, rotten porphyry, heavy spar, &c., &.c., all so completely changed and 
decayed by the causes alluded to that the entire mass yields to the pick and shovel in any 
direction. This extreme decay of the original contents renders the study of the mass at first 
a little difficult ; no sulphurets of any kind remain visible to guide the eye, but in their 
place everywhere the results of their decomposition. 

The mass is evidently a gigantic vein, the main constituent of which was a highly sulphu- 
retted quartz, holding originally iron and copper pyrites throughout its entire mass ; these 
sulphurets, and the quartz itself, being very uniformly impregnated at all parts with gold 
and silver. Examined by the battea, the pan, or the horn spoon, no part of the contents of 
this great ore channel fails to give abundant "prospects" of gold. Even the dry cherty 
croppings broken from all parts of the hill, without selection, gave an ample show of gold. 
The gulch at the base of the hill has always yielded good washings, and does so still, the 
source of which is from the ores of Quail Hill. I found the gold in nearly all the varieties 
of mineral contents contained in the hill, showing that any attempt at selection would be 
useless, and that the whole of the mass must be worked as it runs, except certain layers of 
soft white rock, resembling kaolin, which are probably too poor in gold to pay for working. 

Extent of Explorations. — This mass has been opened by a cut driven 82 feet intc 
it, beyond the line of the east wall, by an incline 57 feet long, at an angle of 38°, and by a 
shaft 42 feet below the cut, sunk in pursuit of copper ore. The shaft in the open cut 
explores the mass over 80 feet below the walls of the cut and nearly 150 feet below the crown 
of the hill. Another shaft, sunk 100 feet south of the open cut, opens the deposit to a total 
depth of 90 feet under the crown of the hill. Near Gopher Gulch is another shaft 62 feet 
deep, which passes into the unchanged sulphurets 25 feet, it is said, from its mouth, (this 
shaft has water in it now, ) or about 170 feet under the hill. 

The position of all these openings is seen on the map ; but there is a tunnel, not shown 
on the map, run some 70 feet into the hill, on the west side, and several hundred feet (about 
850 feet) beyond the western limits of the location, in which the entire mass of the hill is 
still seen to be completely decomposed at that part also, the tunnel having been run by the 
pick alone. From this tunnel I obtained spongy quartz, which prospected well for gold ; 
but this point is very far west of the supposed productive limits of the deposit. Numerous 
surface-pits have also been sunk over the hill in various places for the purpose of obtaining 
averages, from all of which gold prospects may be obtained in the pan. 

Value of the Ores. — I collected for assay and practical workings careful samples 
from — 

1. The whole face of the open cut on both sides and end. 

2. The incline shatt. 

3. The south shaft. 

I give here only the general results and averages, viz : 

(1.) The average from the three places named above was by working tests: 

Gold ..-. $29 18 

Silver 5 91 

Total value per ton of 2,000 pounds 35 09 

By assay, value per ton of 2,000 pounds 50 17 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 69 

Brushville. — The Austin and Hathaway mine at Bmshville, half a mile 
south of the Calaveras river, is on a similar, deposit, and has been worked down 
to a depth of 30 feet. The owners of the mine, who reside in San Francisco, 
are erecting a 20-stamp steam mill. 

Plymouth. — The Plymouth mine, 2,000 feet long, at Brushville, is on a 
deposit similar to that at Quail Hill. Mr. Heuscli^ a mining engineer, who 
examined the mine in 1865, said : 

This mineral deposit may be described as a vein or belt of gold-bearing quartz imbedded 
in a soft decomposed talcose rocit, tlie whole being enclosed between two nearly perpendicu- 
lar walls of greenstone. The quartz, of which there is a lode of about eight feet in width, 

(2.) Ten (10) small samples collected at various points in the open cut, with a view to 
determine where the ore was richer or poorer, (the details of which are appended, ) gave — 

Gold $17 08 

Silver 5 82 

Total 22 90 

Assay value of same 24 70 



(3.) A large lot of 2,843 pounds of ores collected some time since, under direction of 
Messrs. Attwood and Peachy, were carefully worked by Mr. Lewis Blandiug, giving by 
working tests an average of — 

Gold $3.5 08 

Silver : 14 38 

Total 49 46 

Assay value 82 65 

(4.) Averaging these three independent sets of returns, as we have for the general aver- 
age- 
Gold $30 n 

Silver 8 68 

Averaging total working tests 38 79 

Average assay value .52 51 



^ An inspection of the tabulated results given in detail with this report will show that the 
silver is very unequally disposed, being found in greatest quantity in the incline shaft or 
near its mouth. If we view the results from the least favorable side, even accepting the 
lowest single averages as those most likely to be obtained in working in the large way, it is 
impossible to avoid the conclusion that the whole mass of the ores at Quail Hill, so far as 
explored, exceeds the average gold tenor of most of the best quartz mines of the State of 
California. 

* * » * * » » •» * ■* ». 

Cost and Mode of Treatment.— At Quail Hill the water-power is suiBcient to move 
100 stamps, as the water is delivered under an estimated pressure of about 200 feet head. 
The only water in all the region is at the command of the owners of Quail Hill. The reser- 
voir has a present area of over 650 acres, and the right of flowage, by the terms of its loca- 
tion, of an elevation of 15 feet more than its present height. A line of survey is now being 
run for a ditch, estimated to be of about ten (10) miles in length, to convey the water to 
Quail Hill, and also of the line marking the area of flowage at an elevation 15 feet higher 
than the present. This reservoir fills the valley known as Salt Spring Valley. 

With these facilities it is estimated that the cost of treatment of the Quail Hill ores will 
not exceed 70 to 80 cents per ton, including the cost of extraction and delivery at mill. 
The mode of treatment is based on the condition of the gold, which is all free, viz : 
amalgamation in battery, double discharge ; moderately coarse screens. No. 2 or No. 3 ; 
amalgamated copper aprons and riffles ; large settlers to collect amalgam and mercury ; an 
ample flow of pure water to aid in settling the residuum, and large slime pits to retain the 
tailings, are the main features. As experience iu the management of the ores teaches us better 
methods, such improvements as are thus warranted may gradually be introduced. Blankets 
may form a part of the system, following the copper inclines. 

I would not advise an estimate ujf value exceeding $10 per ton, net saving, or say 40 
and 50 per cent, of the demonstrated value. The residue is not lost, and the ample head 
and flow of water will permit the copopany at any future time to set up a pan mill, or any 
other approved mode of working over the- tailings, provided the tailings are retained as 
herein advised, and should be found valuable. 



70 EESOUECES OP STATES AND TERRITORIES 

occupies the western part of the vein, while the remaining space is filled with the auriferous 
talcose rock, the whole forming a regular channel of gold-bearing matter of about 40 feet 
in width, many hundred feet in length, and doubtless many hundred feet in depth. It is in 
fact a wide chasm, running through a hill several hundred feet in height, and filled with 
auriferous quartz and other gold-bearing matter. 

Mr. Heusch estimated that there were, Avithin 300 feet of the surface, in a 
length of GOO feet, 214,185 tons of auriferous matter that wouki j'ield $10 gross 
and 84 net per ton. There is a 10-stamp mill on the mine, and it began to run 
on the 1st of September. The estimated yield' is $8 per ton, and the expense $2. 

Lampheak. — The Lamphear mine, 1,800 feet h^ng, is two miles southeast of 
Mohelumne Hill, is on a vein which is four feet wide, and has been worked to a 
depth of 45 feet and to a length of 100 feet. Six hundred tons of rock have 
been worked, and some of it was quite rich. Tliere is an eight-stamp mill on 
the mine. 

Cadwallader mill. — The Cadwallader mill has three stamps, was built 
for prospecting, and is not at work. 

FeeisCH mill. — The French mill, at Rich gulch, six miles east of Mokelumne 
Hill, was buitlt two years ago, has 15 stamps, and is standing idle. 

McGltxn's mill. — McGlynn's six-stamp mill, erected at San Andreas to crush 
quartz, is being moved to Irvine's claim, on the old channel, to crush cement. 

Cheeokee. — The Cherokee mine, 1,700 feet long, west of Altaville and a 
quarter of a mile west of the line of the mother lode, was discovered by some 
placer miners, who washed the gravel and clay from the surface of a vein of 
decomposed quartz, and dug up the carious quartz filled with auriferous clay and 
washed that too. The discoverers, having taken out $27,000, sold to others, 
who got $9,000 and then leased it to a gentleman who obtained $30,000 ; and 
after liim came a party avIio got out $25,000. The mine is now owned by a 
citizen of San Francisco, who has a 16-stamp mill now idle on it. The gold is 
coarse and is in pockets, and most of the rock does not yield more than $2 or $3 
per ton. 

San Domixgo. — At San Domingo a rich auriferous pocket was found in lime- 
stone, the rock yielding $1,500 per ton. After most of the gold-bearing quartz 
was extracted the mine was sold to a San Francisco company for $10,000. They 
never obtained any return for it. 

Murphy's. — At Murphy's a similar pocket was found and a mill was erected 
at a cost of $40,000. Although water could have been obtained in constant 
supply, it was driven by steam. The rich rock was soon exhausted, and the 
mill was sold and removed. 

At jMurphy's there is a three-stamp mill now running, called the Valparaiso mill. 

At Cave City some rich rock was found, and a mill was built, but it has since 
been moved. 

At El Dorado there is a mill. 

Crispix. — The Crispin mine, 2,400 feet in length, two miles west of Murphy's, 
is on a vein which runs east and west and dips to the south at an angle of 80°. 
A shaft has been sunk to a depth of 100 feet, and drifts have been run 150 feet 
on the vein. The width of the lode is six feet, but the pay is confined near the 
surface to a very narrow seam next the hanging wall, though it widens as it goes 
down. The pay chimney is only 30 feet long on the sm-face, but r.t the 100-foot 
level the drifts have not reached the end in either direction. The Avails are of 
slate, with a gouge of auriferous talcose slate. Tliere is a Avater-wheel for 
pumping and hoisting, but no mill. A custom mill crushed 225 tons and obtained 
an average of $20 per ton. 

A quartz lode running northAvest and southeast passes through Murphy's and 
Douglas Flat, and has been struck at many places by placer miners. At the 
surface it consists of decomposed quartz, and all along its line quartz boulders 
are found, and some of them haA^e been rich. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. . 71 

Isabel. — The Isabel mine, about half a mile west^vard from Vallecito, yielded 
$50,000 in a single pocket. A mill was ei:ected, but as it did not pay it was 
moved away, and the mine is not worked. 

Calavekitas. — The Calaveritas mill, erected about 10 years ago by a 
French company at a cost of $110,000, has been moved away. It never crushed 
a pound of quartz from the mine which it was built to work. Before it was 
completed the pocket supposed to represent the average richness of the vein was 
exhausted, and as no auriferous rock could be found afterwards, the mill had 
nothing to do. 

ALBlOJf. — The Albion mine, in Salt Spring valley, three miles west of Copper- 
opolis, has been worked for three years with a 10-stamp mill. The average yield 
is about 86 per ton, leaving very little profit. The gold coins $11 per ounce. 

Thorpe's. — Thorpe's mine, 600 feet long, six miles west of Angels, is on a 
vein which runs northwest and southeast, and is similar in its gangue to the 
Bovee mine. The thickness of the lode is three feet, and the yield is $10 per ton. 
The rock is crushed and amalgamated by two arrastras, driven by a water-wheel 
24 feet in diameter. 

The RatclifTe mine, 400 feet long, is two miles southwest of Angels, on the 
Copperopolis road. The vein is from four to six feet wide, and the rock is quartz 
mixed with talcose slate. This mine has been w.orked at intervals for three or 
four years, but steadily for 18 months, by one man, who throws the quartz upon 
the read, where it is ground fine by the heavy wagons passing over it, and then 
he shovels the dust into his sluice, which runs along the road, and catches the 
gold. Thi3 is the onty lode mine worked on this plan in the State. 

OakpenteFv. — Adjoining the Ratclitfe mine and on the same vein is the Car- 
penter mine, on which a five-stamp mill was erected in 1855. The mill was moved 
to Angels, and the mine is now lying idle. 

PuiiXELL. — The Purnell mine, 600 feet, adjoining the Carpenter, has been 
worked for five or six years, and a 10-stamp mill is now going up on it. 



SECTION VI. 

AMADOR COUNTY. 

Amador, one of the smallest mining counties of the State, and also one of 
the most prosperous, lies between the Mokelumne and Cosumnes rivers, extending 
from the summit of the Sierra to near the plain, with a length of 50 miles and 
an average Avidth of 14. It owes its prosperity chiefly to the mother lode, wliich 
crosses the county about 12 miles from the western boundary, and has within 
three miles three mines, which have all been worked continuously for 15 years, 
have probably produced not less than $8,000,000, and form the most remarkable 
cluster of quartz mines on one vein in the State. Twelve miles further east, 
near Volcano, there is another rich quartz mining district, which has some pecu- 
liar features. Otherwise, the county has not much wealth. It has no great 
thoroughfare leading across the mountains, no place of fashionable summer 
resort, "no productive mines of copper, no extensive hydraulic claims, few rich 
surface placers, and no quarries of marble or deposits of plumbago. 

The agriculture of the county is prosperous but not extensive. The farmers 
do not aim to do more than supply the home demand, except in wine, and for 
that there is no regular market as yet. The county has a large number of vine- 
yards, and they are cultivated with care. Timber is abundant in the eastern 
part of the count}^, but scanty in the western. 

Near the eastern boundary, at an elevation of 10,000 feet above the sea, is 
Silver lake, a mile long and a half mile wide, surrounded by beautiful scenery. 



72 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

It will probably become a favorite summer resort at some future time, when 
better means of access are provided. 

A road following' up the main divide between the Cosumnes and Mokelumne 
rivers, in this county, leads across the Sierra Nevada through the Carson pass. 
Tt was made at considerable expense, but there is not much travel on it. 

The most remarkable topographical feature of the county is the Jackson 
butte, which rises 1,200 feet above the adjacent countr}^, five miles from the county 
seat. In form it is a regular cone, with a sharp peak, and there are no signs that 
it ever had a crater, although it has often been spoken of as an extinct volcano. 

Jackson creek, Sutter creek. Dry creek, and Indian creek, which drain the 
county between the rivers that serve as boundaries, all go dry in the spring. 
AVater is supplied by 28 ditches, with an aggregate length of 433 miles and an 
aggregate cost of $1,154,500. The only large ditches are the Butte, Amador, 
and Volcano ditches. 

The county debt is $100,000, and the State and county taxes together are 
$3 20 on the'$100 of assessed value. 

Jackson, the county seat, formerly had rich placers in its neighborhood, but 
now depends chiefly upon quartz. Sutter Creek is the chief town and business 
centre of the county. It ranks next to Grass Valley for the production of quartz 
gold. Amador and Dry town, are other towns situated on or near the mother 
lode. Volcano, the only placer mining town in the county now producing much 
gold, is on the lime belt, and has diggings very similar to those of Columbia and 
Murphy's. Butte City, which depended on shallow placers and was once popu- 
lous and prosperous, is now exhausted and abandoned. Buena Vista, Forest 
Home, Willow Springs, Slabtown, Clinton, and Aqueduct City are also worked 
out. Tiddletown has a few good hydraulic claims, and Lancha Plana several 
that pay a little more than expenses. lone City is surrounded by a fertile 
farming land, and there are more than 1,000,000 vines in the vicinity. 

The quartz mines of the county, as a class, were unprofitable previous to 
1858, but since that year they have been steadily improving, and the white pop- 
ulation has been increasing. It is estimated by county officers who have occa- 
sion to make close observation, that 1,000 Chinamen have left the county this 
year. 

Several high ridges or divides that come down from the Sierra are supposed 
to consist chiefly of gravel with rich aur&rous strata in them, but there is no 
proof of the correctness of this theory save the general resemblance of these 
ridges to others known to be auriferous. 

Volcano. — The town of Volcano, situated on the, lime belt, 12 miles east- 
ward from Jackson, was so named because it is in a deep basin, and the first 
miners at the place supposed they were in an extinct crater. This supposition 
has not been accepted as correct b}^ scientific men generally who have visited 
the place, although there are many marks of volcanic outflows in the neighbor- 
hood. The diggings here are very similar to those of Murphy's and Columbia 
on the lime belt further south, and the same difficulties of drainage have been 
experienced. 

On China Hill, south of Volcano, are the following hydraulic claims : 

Ross & Co., 300 ])y 100 feet, have been at work since 1855, and have made 
$5 or $6 per day. During the last three years three rnen have been employed. 
Their claim is 80 feet deep. 

Goodrich & Co. have 200 bj^ 100 feet, have worked for 12 years, and have 
not found very good pay. The claim is 80 feet deep, and will last four or five 
years. There are two men at work. 

Farriu & Co. have 300 by 100 feet, and are working to a depth of 20 feet, 
below which they have no drainage, and must hoist their dirt. The claim has 
been worked at intervals for 13 years, and now emplo3^s three men. 

The Murphy & Co. claim is 300 by 100 feet on the surface, and 100 feet deep, 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 73 

has paid from $8 to $12 per day to tlie hand until within the last year, and lately 
has not paid expenses. 

There have been a number of other claims on China Hill, but they are either 
abandoned or of little note. 

At the mouth of China £^ulch are the following dump-box claims : 

Foster & Co. have 400 by 150 feet, employ six or seven men, and have been 
at work since 1853, excepting from 1858 till 1862, when they were idle, waiting- 
for the completion of the open cat to give them drainage. In 1866 they took 
out $8,500 clear of expenses. The claim will last three years, and is worked, 
only in the summer. 

Sullivan & Co. have 200 by 150 feet, commenced work in 1865, and have 
made $3 or $4 per day to the hand. They employ four men, and their claim' 
will last two years. 

Armstrong & Co. have 800 b}^ 150 feet, and employ five men. Thoy com- 
menced work in 1852, and made good pay till 1857, when Avork was stopped for 
want of drainage. In 1861 they began again, and did well till 1866, in which 
they only paid expenses. This year they are again getting good pay. The 
claim will last seven or eight j^ears. It is worked only in th© summer. 

Hayt & Co. have a very small claim. 

On Mahala Flat, Goodrich and Co. have a hydraulic claim, 200 by 100 feet. 
They have worked since 1856, and have made wages until lately. Two men 
are emplo3^ed. 

On Volcano Flat are the following dump-box claims, which are worked only 
in summer : 

Tenill & Co. have 400 by 100 feet, and employ six men. The claim has 
been worked since 1861, and has paid very well. 

Green & Co. have 300 by 100 feet, employ five men, have been at work since 
1861, and have made good pay. 

The Italian claim has been worked since 1865, and pays well. 

Cerrelli & Co. have been at work since 1865, and have obtained good pay. 

Much ground now occupied for gardening purposes in Volcano will be rained 
out within three or four years. 

Quartz Regulations of Amador. — In Amador county, each district has 
its own mining regulations for quartz, as well as for placer mining. If a claim 
is not within the limits of any district, it may, according to custom, be recorded 
in the nearest district, and lield under its laws. 

In the Volcano district a lode claim for one person is 200 feet on the vein, and 
75 feet on each side. 

In the Pinegrove district a claim for one person is 30b feet, and 100 feet on 
each side, and in this, as in the Volcano district, one day's work is necessary each 
month to hold each share. 

In the Volcano, Pinegrove, Clinton, and Jackson districts a company's claim, 
no matter how large, may be held for a year by doing worJc to the amount of $500, 
posting a notice on the claim, and filing notice with the recorder that such work 
has been done. 

In the Jackson district, if the company is a small one, it may do work to the 
amount of $20 for each share, and this will hold the claim for a year. 
• There are no pocket veins in Amador county similar to those at West Point, 
in Calaveras county, or at Bald mountain, in Tuolumne. The limestone at 
Volcano is full of bunches of quartz, but thoy are not large enough to work, and 
there are no regular veins. 

In the vicinity of Volcano, most of the quartz veins eut across the slates at 
an angle of 45°, and run between 15 and 30° east of north. 

Elvan courses are abundant in the limestone. 

Quartz VEiiirs about Volcano. — The quartz lodes in the vicinity of Volcano 
generally run northeast and southwest, cut across the slates, contain considerable 



74 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

portions of antimony, arsenic, lead, and zinc, with traces of tellurium, and are 
intersected liy clvan courses, wliicli run north and south, and dip to the west at an 
angle of 70°. The elvan coui'ses are usually from one foot to four feet in thickness, 
and the intervals between them are very irregular. Quartz veins crossed by elvan 
courses are usually poor near the intersections. Those lodes which run with 
the courses are very spotted, rich in some places, and poor in others. Where 
the quartz is thick in these veins, it is richer than in the narrow places. Pockets 
and coarse gold are rare. 

Marlette. — The following mines arc on the mother lode or its branches. The 
]Marlette, 800 feet long on the mother lode, near the Mokelumne river, is reputed 
to be rich, but unprofitable on account of the high cost of working. There is a 
10-stamp mill which has been idle a year and a half. 

COXET. — The Coney mine, 800 feet long, is half a mile south of Jackson, on 
a vein which is 30 feet west of the main mother lode, and can be traced for 10 
miles by its croppings. The dip in this mine is 72° to the northeast. The lode 
is nine feet wide. The deepest workings are 200 feet from the surface, and drifts 
have been run 300 feet on the vein, all of which, so far as examined, is pay rock. 
For 150 feet from the surface there is much slate, and lower down the vein-stone 
is all quartz. Near the hanging wall is found ribbon rock, containing some free 
gold, Avhich is rare elsewhere. Five per cent, of the vein matter, and in spots 
20 per cent., is sulphurets, which yields $7 50 per ton of unconcentrated 
rock, and $200 per ton of clean sulphurets. The free gold yields $6 per ton, 
so the total yield may be put down as $13 50 per ton. The mill has 16 
stamps in four batteries. Hendy's concentrator and sluices are used in concen- 
tration. It was necessary for the purpose of working this mine with a profit to 
have a chlorination establishment, which has been erected. The furnace is 17 
feet long, 12 feet wide, and 8-^ feet high outside, Avith asmoke-stack 25 feet high. 
There are two reverberatory hearths one over the other, and each 10 feet square, 
with a capacity to hold a ton and a half. There are 12,000 brick, fifty perch 
of stone, and five cubic yards of soapstone in the furnace, which it is supposed 
will last three years. A charge is roasted 12 hours in each hearth, so that the 
furnace has a capacity to roast three tons in 24 hours. The total cost of the 
establishment was $2,100, and the cost of the chlorination is estimated at $25 per 
ton of sulphurets. A cord of Avood costing $4 is consumed in roasting three tons. 

Blue Jacket. — Adjoining the Coney on the north is the Blue Jacket mine, 
1,000 feet long. The shaft is down 100 feet deep. Only $1 25 per ton of free 
gold has been obtained, and $100 per ton from the concentrated sulphurets. No 
Avork is being done noAV. 

TroavbridCxE. — The TroAvbridge adjoining has 1,200 feet, and is at AVork, 
but is not crushing. Tlie Adams mine on the same A^ein is not crushing. 

Oneida. — The Oneida mine, 3,000 feet long, is a mile and a half north of 
Jackson, on the mother lode. The course there is nearly nortli and south, and 
the dip to the eastAvard from 65° to 80°. The main shaft is 500 feet deep, and 
drifts have been run about 600 feet on the vein; the Avidth is from 10 to 40 feet; 
the foot-Avall is slate, and the hanging Avail greenstone. The quartz is Avliite 
and blue, Avith some ribbon rock Avhich contains more free gold than is found in 
other parts of the vein. There is a black putty gouge on the foot-Avall. There 
are tAVO pay chimneys, Avhich dip to the north, and all the rock in them is pay. 
The quartz Avithin six or eight feet of the hanging AA'all yields $30 or $40 per 
ton, but the average of all Avorked is $17 50 per ton. All the ore heretofore 
Avorked has been taken from one pay chimney, Avhich is 300 feet long, horizon- 
tally, at the surface, and 400 feet long at a depth of 400 feet. The vein pinches 
out at the ends of tlie pay chimneys, so that there is very little barren rock. The 
AA-alls are, in places, as smootli as glass. Tlie mine is opened so that there is 
ore enough in sight to supply 60 tons per day for five years. 

The mine AA'as discovered in 1851 bv a hunter Avho chased a rabbit to some 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 75 

large quartz croppings, in wliicli, after a brief examination, he found rich speci- 
mens of gold. Since then work has been prosecuted continuously and with 
almost constant profit. Tln-ee or four mills were built successively, and the 
mine has changed hands a dozen times. Many thousand tons of quartz have 
been crushed fronr it, but there is no record of its early yield. In eight months 
preceding June 1, 1S67, $135,000 Avere taken from 7,710 tons, at an expense of 
$5 per ton, leaving $12 50 net per ton. The present owners have not had pos- 
session long, and they have expended mnch in opening the mine and putting the 
mill into good condition. The superintendent says that if the proprietors had 
not had a considerable sum of money at their control after purchasing the mine, 
they would have been ruined, since without the repairs and the new shafts and 
levels they could have got nothing. 

Tlie mill has 60 stamps, and is driven by steam. Amalgamation begins in 
the battery, and continues on copper aprons below; then there are shaking- 
tables, blankets, copper sluices 60 feet long, blankets again, and sluices. The 
screen is No. 4, pvmched in slots. One per cent, of the ore is sulphurets, which, 
when concentrated, yield $200 to the ton. 

Haywakd. — The Hay ward mine, one of the most valuable gold mines of Cali- 
fornia, is 1,800 feet long, and includes two old claims known as the Eureka and 
the Badger. The average width of the vein is 12 feet, and the dip 75° to the 
east. All the rock is taken out. The hanging Avail is of hard serpentine ; the 
foot-Avall is of slate, polislied smooth. Tlie foot-Avall sAvells so that tlie mine 
closes entirely up behind the Avorkmen, and saves the trouble of lea\nng pillars, 
and pre\^ents any apprehension of caving in. There is a continuous black putty 
gouge. There is only one pay chimney, and that is 500 feet long, horizontally, 
on the surface, and at 1,200 ieet below the surface the supposed length is 600 
feet. The walls come together at the ends of the pay chimney, Avhich dips to 
the north at an angle of about 80°. The deepest incline is 1,230 feet deep, the 
greatest depth reached in the mines in California. The surface of the earth at Sut- 
ter creek is 900 feet above the sea ; so the loAvest drifts in the HayAvard claim are 
30G feet below the sea level. Work Avas commenced in 1852, and has been con- 
tinued uninterruptedly since. A 10-stamp mill Avas erected on the Eureka claim 
in 1852. A new mill, AA'ith 20 stamps, Avas erected in 1856, and 20 more Avere 
added the next year. A 10-stamp mill Avas built on the Badger or southern 
claim in 1854, and six more stamps Avere added in 1857. Mr. IlayAA-ard, the 
present owner, obtained a controlling interest in the Badger in 1854, purchased 
the Eureka in 1858, and became sole OAvner of the Badger in 1859, thus con- 
solidating the tAvo claims. There are three shafts — the southern 760 feet deep, 
the middle 960, and the northern 1,230. 

At the level of 760 feet a pillar has been and is to be left to catch the water 
which comes from the smiace. About 45,000 gallons AA-ere hoisted daily in buck- 
ets in the early part of June — 25,000 from the southern and 20,000 from the 
northern part of the mine. In February and March the quantity Avas twice as 
great. 

There are tAVO mills noAV, Avith 56 stamps, and with capacity to crush 80 tons 
per day, but at times much quartz is sent to custom mills. The gold is nearly 
all free, and the amalgamation is effected chiefly in the mortar and on copper 
aprons. The sulphurets are saved in sluices. For the first 200 feet the 
Badger mine did not pay, and it Avas Avith the utmost difficulty that the mill 
was kept going, but the vein appeared to be getting Avider and the quartz richer, 
and Avork Avas continued, with some trust from the laborers, until the receipts 
exceeded the expenses ; and soon after the tAvo claims Avere consolidated the 
HayAvard took a leading position among the mines of the State. Within 500 
feet of the surface the average yield did not exceed $10 or $11 per ton, and noAV 
it is, according to report, $27, Avith a Avide vein and 125,000 tons of ore in sight — 
enough to keep the two mills going for five years. The proprietor of the mine 



76 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

lias a great fear of being suspected of seeking publicity, and lie refuses to give 
information about tlie details of his receipts or expenses, or even to communi- 
cate his experience in or his opinions about quartz mining. It is, therefore, 
necessary to rely upon the statements of persons not connected with the mine 
for the yield ; and they say the total yield has been $6,000,000 ; the gross yield 
last year per ton $27 ; the net yield, $22 per ton ; the amount of rock worked 
in 1866, 30,000 tons; and the profit of that year, $660,000. Much rock is at 
times sent to custom mills to be reduced. The quartz in sight, it is estimated; 
will yield $3,375,000 gross, and $2,750,000 net. 

Sixty miners are employed, 12 blacksmiths and engineers, and 25 others as 
feeders, amalgamaters, teamsters, &:c. The miners and laborers in the mill 
work liy two shifts, a day shift and a night shift of 10 hours each ; and at the 
end of each week the shifts change, so that each man works in the night-time 
one week and in the day-time the next. The rock is carried from the mine to 
the mill on a tramway. 

Railkoad. — The Railroad mine, 800 feet long, has been worked four j^ears, 
has produced $70,000, and has had much rock which j'ielded $15 per ton. A 
depth of 340 feet has been reached, and drifts have been run 300 feet on the 
vein. There is no mill connected with the mine. 

LoRiXG Hill. — The Loring Hill, 700 feet abreast of the Railroad mine, on 
another branch of the mother lode, was worked for ten years, paid from $5 to 
$12 per ton, and has been idle for five years. Work is soon to be resumed. A 
depth of 150 feet was reached. 

WiLDMAN. — The Wildman, 1,130 feet long, has reached a depth of 530 feet 
and has run 200 feet on the vein. There is a 12-stamp mill, which is busy at 
custom work. 

LixcoLN. — The Lincoln mine, 2,078 feet long on the mother lode, is half a 
mile north of Sutter creek. The course of the vein there is north 17° west, the 
dip about 75° to the eastward, and the width six feet. A depth of 669 feet has 
been reached in one shaft and 270 in another ; and drifts have been run 400 feet 
on the vein. There are two pay chimneys, one 150 and the other 250 feet long. 
They dip slightly to the north, although their lines are irregular. The mine has 
been worked since 1851, with the exception of a couple of years. About 3,500 
tons have been extracted annually while the mine was worked. Work was 
stopped in November, 1866, and is to be resumed next year. There is a 20- 
stamp water-mill, which is now doing custom work for Hayward. The mill 
catches 90 per cent, of its gold in the mortar, 3 per cent, on the apron, 5 per 
cent, on the shaking table, and 2 per cent, on blankets. 

Comet. — The Comet mine, on the mother lode, north of Sutter creek, is 750 
feet long, and a depth of 145 feet has been reached. The mine is now being 
opened to a greater depth. 

Herbertville. — The Herbertville mine, 1,200 feet long on the mother lode, 
a mile north of Sutter creek, was worked from 1851 till 1859, but never was 
profitable, though some good quartz was found. A depth of 600 feet was 
reached. There was a 30-stamp mill, which was burned down. 

Ketstoxe. — The Keystone mine includes claims on two distinct lodes — 3,000 
feet on the Keystone, which runs north 48° west, and dips eastward at an angle 
of 52° ; and 840 feet on the Geneva, which is 280 feet east of the Keystone, 
has a dip of 64°, and a width varying from 3 to 7 feet. The foot wall of the 
Geneva vein is slate, and the hanging wall is a hard greenstone. The average 
width of the Keystone is 10 feet. Professor Ashburner, in a repoii on the mine, 
says ''the wall of this (Keystone) vein on the west is generally hard, well-de- 
fined, and regular ; on the east it is softer, and frequently incorporated with the 
quartz. The ground in many places is loose, and the vein seems to have been 
subjected to great pressure, crushing the quartz to powder." There are many 
horses of honiblendic slate in the Keystone vein, on which vein most of the work 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 77 

is now being done. The qnartz is mixed with black and green talcose slate^ 
and the green contains good pay. Tlie Geneva vein contains good pay rock, 
but" it is harder than tlie Keystone. It is calculated that the two veins, if they 
maintain their present dip, will nnite at a depth of 1,800 feet. The deepest 
shaft is down 375 feet, and drifts have been run 450 feet, in pay all the way. 
The miiie was opened in 1851, and has been worked continuously since. Tlie 
total quantity of rock worked has been 44,000 tons ; the average yield per ton, 
$16 ; the total yield, $700,000, The croppings were rich. The present mill 
has twenty stamps, and is driven by steam. Most of the gold is caught by 
amalgamation in the mortar, and on the copper apron below the screen ; next to 
wdiich are blankets, and the tailings from them are ground in Hepburn and 
Peterson pans, and amalgamated in settlers ; and the pulp is concentrated again 
for sulphurets in Prater's concentrator. The rock contains one and a quarter 
per cent, of sulpluu'ets which are gold. The present average yield is $16 per 
ton, and 17,000 tons have been worked in the last two years. The yield from 
December 8, 1865, till December 21, 1866, was $135,333 30 ; the dividends, 
$51,300 ; the amount spent iu building, $34,000 ; the cunent expenses, 
$50,033 30 ; and the total profits, $85,300. 

Spring Hill. — On another branch of the mother lode, abreast of the Key- 
stone, is the Spring Hill mine, 1,200 feet long, which has been worked to a 
depth of 350 feet, has tm-ned out 50,000 tons of rock, but has paid little, if any- 
thing, beyond expenses. There is a 30-stamp mill, which is now idle, with 
the exception of five stamps employed on custom rock. 

Amador. — Adjoining the Spring Hill on the north is the Amador, which is 
1,300 feet long and was Avorkcd in early days to a depth of 240 feet. 

BuxKER Hill. — The Bunker Hill, 1,200 feet long, has been at work since 
1854, and has reached a depth of 350 feet. The vein is six feet wide, and the 
rock yields $10 per ton, leaving $3 profit. There are several faults in the lode 
within the limits of this claim. The mine and an eight-stamp mill belonging to 
it are the property of gentlemen residing in San Francisco and in Boston. 

Hazard. — The Hazard mine, 800 feet long, is not worked now, but has pro- 
duced 5,000 tons of rock, some of which yielded $15 per ton. The vein is throe 
feet wide, and there is an eight-stamp mill. 

Loyal. — The Loyal, 600 feet, has a 20-stamp mill, and both mine and mill 
are idle. 

Italian. — The Italian mine, 340 feet long, has a six-stamp mill, and has 
crushed 2,000 tons of quartz, but is now idle, and has been for two years. It 
paid very well near the surface. 

Seaton. — The Seaton mine, a mile and a quarter east of Dry Town, is 1,200 
feet long on the mother lode, which there averages 30 feet wide. About 10,000 
tons of quartz have been worked, yielding $9 per ton, and leaving a small profit. 
There is a 40-stamp mill which has a 40-foot wheel to drive it when water 
is abundant, and a 60-horse power steam-engine for other times. The mill is 
now idle waiting for the further opening of the mine. The deepest works are 
500 feet from tlie smface. The mine was purchased a couple of years since by 
a San Francisco company, which has expended $150,000 in improvements. 

POTOSI. — The Potosi mine is 800 feet long, has been worked since 1852, and 
has a good pay chimney four feet wide. There is a 16-stamp mill on the mine. 

Webster. — The Webster mine, 600 feet long, was worked for a long time, 
but the rock paid only $7 per ton leaving no profit, so the mill which onco 
belonged to the mine was moved away and work was stopped. The average 
width of the vein was six feet. 

Plymouth. — The Plymouth mine is 1,200 feet long on the main mother lode 
and has other claims on branch veins. The lode is twelve feet wide there on an 
average, and the rock now worked yields $8 per ton, at a depth of 400 feet. 



78 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Tlic quartz obtained Avitliin 300 feet of the surface paid $15 per ton. There id 
a 15-stamp water-mill driven by a water-wheel 38 feet in diameter. 

ENTEr^PEiSE. — The Enterprise mine has a 10-stamp mill, which commenced 
to. ran in the sprino- of this year. 

IaICIIMOXD. — The Richmond mine, 1,200 feet long, is being prospected, and 
its 10-stamp mill is standing idle. 

JMeadeh's SuLrnuRET Works. — Meader's sulphnret worlds, a mile and a half 
east of Sutter creek, W'as fitted np with machinery invented l)y Mr. Ambler, con- 
sisting of a sizer, grinder, concentrator and pan, but the establishment has not 
been successful. The grinder is constructed somewhat like a coffee-mill, of cast 
iron, with ridges running downward on a cone working against other ridges 
running in a contrary direction in a hollow cone. 

Rose. — Rose's mill has eight stamps, and was formerly occupied as the snl- 
phuret establishment of Mr. Thoss. It was standing idle in June for repairs. 
The mine which is to supply it with quartz had been opened at that time to a 
depth of 150 feet and to a length of 60 feet. 

WoLVERiXE. — East of Jackson, on another vein, is the Wolverine mine, 
1,000 feet. It Avas opened by a tunnel 100 feet long, and 500 tons yielded 
$4: 40 per ton of free gold. No work is being done now. 

Kearsixg. — The Kearsingmill was first erected at Big Bar on the Mokelumne 
river in 1855, and was moved in 18G3 to the vicinity of Jackson to be used as 
a custom mill. It has four stamps and Ambler's pan. 

IIixcKLET. — The Hinckley mine, near the town of Jackson, is on a vein not 
traced elsewhere. The claim is 600 feet long, and it has been opened to a depth 
of 50 feet. There are two veins — one from three to seven feet in width, and the 
other pinches out. About $15,000 have been taken out in a hand mortar; and 
some I'ock crushed in a mill yielded $12 per ton. Much of the gold is black or 
purplish, offering a singular contrast to the white quartz in which it is found. 
The vein was first struck in digging a. cellar, and the gold-bearing quartz was 
in June still visible in the cellar wall. Some of the gold is found in little sheets 
01 leaves rolled up or tied np in a very singular and unaccountable manner. 

Atchisox. — Atchison's mill, one mile north of Jackson, built in 1867, has 
20 stamps, and is emploj'ed on custom work. It was built to work an unopened 
mine, but after opening no pay was found. 

Tubes. — Near the Atchison mill is Tubbs' mill, which was moved, in 1866, 
from the vicinity of San Andreas. It is idle now, waiting for the ojiening of the 
mine Avhich it is to w'ork. 

Paugh. — Paugh's mine, 1,000 feet long, is seven miles east of Jackson. The 
vein has not been found beyond the limits of this claim. The course is east- 
northeast by w-est-southwest, with a dip to the southeastward. The average 
tliickness is seven feet, and the walls are slate on both sides. There is no con- 
tinuous gouge, but such as there is is yellow in color. The mine has been worked 
for two years and a half and a depth of 175 feet has been reached. Drifts have 
been run on the vein 300 feet. The quartz has paid from the beginning, and 
the average j'ield withoiit selection is $10 per ton, and after selection $12 or $15. 
The richest quartz is found near the foot wall. The gold is fine and there is no 
"specimen rock." There is but little pyrites. The mill has 10 stamps driven 
l:>y steam, and was built in 1865. The pulp is amalgamated in the batter^' and 
in copper plates. 

Uxiox. — The Union or Steen mine, a mile and a quarter south of Pine Grove, 
is 3,000 feet long on a vein wdiicli is eight feet thick on an average, and runs 
northeast and southw'est wnth a dip of 60° to the southeast. The rock is a blue 
ribbon quartz, richest near the sides. One and a half per cent, of the vein matter 
is sulplunet of iron, lead, zinc and antimony, and these sulphurets when con- 
centrated assay from $200 to $6,000 per ton. About 600 tons of rock have 
been worked, giving a yield of $11 50 of free gold per ton; and the rock heavily 



WEST OP THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 79 

cliarged with sulpliiirets yielded $4 50 in the battery and from $22 to $150 in 
tlie pan. The vein has been opened to a deptli of 197 feet and to a length of 
130 feet. There is a nine-stamp steam mill bnilt in 1857. The proprietor of 
this mill has used a saturated solution of cyanide of potassium, bulk for bulk 
with the quicksilver, and found a gain of 23 per cent, in the yield of the gold. 
The potassium seems to loosen the sulphurets, set the gold free, and keep the 
quicksilver clean. 

Tellurium. — The Tellurium mine, near Pine Grove, owned by a San Fran- 
cisco company, is 3,000 feet long on a vein Avhicli runs north 40° east, dips to 
the east at an angle of 75°, and is seven feet wide. The walls are of slate, hard 
on the east and soft on the west. The quartz is bluish in color, and the pa}', 
which is one-third of the vein, near one wall or the other, skipping from side to 
side, is charged with seven per cent, of blue sulphurets of iron, lead, antimony 
and arsenic. The superintendent of the mine says it contains tellurium in con- 
siderable quantities, but others say the proportion of that metal is very slight. 
There are two pay chimneys, each 130 feet long horizontall3\ A cross tunnel 
1,200 feet long strikes the vein 250 feet from the surface, and drifts have been 
run 700 feet on the vein, or on its supposed course, for its place appears to be 
usurped by a porphyritic dike. The pay rock above the level of the tunnel has 
been worked out and the drift is being extended in the hope of striking another 
pay chimney. The rock j'ields $25 per ton in free gold, and the concentrated 
sulj^hurets have been sold at $200 per ton. The mill was built two years ago, 
has 10 stamps, and amalgamates in a mortar and on copper plates. It is standing 
idle, waiting for the opening of a new body of pay quartz. The superintendent 
of this mine has been in the habit of making large assays by mixing pulverized 
ore with 10 per cent, of sawdust or charcoal, and moulding with a little clay 
and water into bricks which, after drying, are burned with the assistance of very 
little fuel save that in the bricks. He considers this a very satisfactory method 
of burning out the sulphurets, and thinks there are some ores which Avould pay 
for working altogether by this method. 

AiN'ACoyDA. — The Anaconda mine, near Pine Grove, is 900 feet long on a 
vein four feet wide. A shaft has been sunk 90 feet and drifts have been run 
100 feet. Some of the rock has been crushed at a custom mill and has paid 
well. The mine is now being opened to a greater depth. 

■Thoss. — The sulphuret mill of W. li. Thoss, near Pine Grove, is the only 
establishment of the kind in the State, and he is the only man who has any 
repute for possessing exclusively any valuable metallurgical secrets. He pays 
high prices for sulphurets, and works them without wasting, and in a few instances 
he has worked sulphurets at a fixed price per ton or on shares. Those for whom 
he has worked speak well of the result obtained, and the general impression in 
the neighborhood is favorable to his claims. He says that his process is valuable 
only where there are sulphurets ; that he can extract 90 per cent, of both gold 
and silver at a total expense of $6 per ton; and that he would rather have new 
than old sulphurets. In the chlorination works roasting is necessary and the 
silver is lost. Among those who speak well of Mr. Thoss are the proprietors 
of the Sirocco mine, who paid him $S0 per ton for working sulphurets, and 
returned them $220 per ton. The mill consists of a crocodile crusher which 
reduces the rock to the size of peas, and of two cast-iron pans 10 feet in diameter, 
cast in sections and enclosed in wood. These pans have each four heavy green- 
stone mullers which make 25 revolutions per minute. The pans take charges 
of 750 pounds of crushed quartz or sulphurets and reduce them to impalpable 
powder in fiv-e or six hours. From the pans the pulp runs into a lower chamber 
into which nobody but the proprietor enters, and there his secret process of 
amalgamation is accomplished. He says that he makes from $10 to $600 per 
ton from the material which he purchases, and that the supply of sulphurets 
offered to him for sale is five-fold more than he can work. He does not enlarge 



80 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

his establisliment because it would be necessary to communicate bis secret to 
others, and he is unwilling' to do that. 

Crafts. — The Crafts mine, 1,800 feet long, is supposed to be on the same 
vein with the Anaconda. The course is east-northeast and west-southwest, and 
the dip GO" to the southeast. A shaft has been sunk 200 feet, and drifts have 
been run 125 feet on the vein. The pay chimney dips 60° to the northwestward. 
About 20 per cent, of the vein matter is represented to be sulphurets of iron, 
copper, zinc, and tellurium. There is no mill, and little work has been done. 

GoLDEX Eagle. — The Golden Eagle or Vaughn mine, two miles and a half 
southwest of Volcano, is 900 feet long on a vein which runs north and south, 
crossing the slates, and is three feet wide. A tunnel has been run 375 feet on 
the vein, and a depth of 170 feet has been attained. The rock yields $15 per 
ton, and the total- production has been $50,000. The mill was built in 1858 and 
rebuilt in 1865. It has 10 stamps, and is driven by water. The mine and mill 
have been worked together, although there are some owners on the mine not 
interested in the mill. 

Belden. — The Belden mine, owned by the California Furnace Company, 
near Pine Grove, is on a vein which averages 18 inches in thickness, and runs 
north-northwest. The shaft is down 250 feet, and drifts have been run 200 feet 
on the vein. The rock is rich, but it pinches out in places. The mine has been 
worked iov 10 years, sometimes at a profit, and sometimes at a loss. There is 
a five-stamp mill and a roasting furnace in which the rock was roasted as it came 
from the slopes. 

Pioneer. — The Pioneer mine, tln-ee miles from Volcano, is on a vein 18 
inches wide between hard granite walls. The rock is rich in sulphurets of cop- 
per, arsenic, and antimony. The shaft is down 80 feet, and drifts have been run 
250 feet on the vein. The rock yielded $40 of free gold near the surface, but 
that from the deeper levels did not pay, the precious metal escaping. There is 
a five-stamp mill, which is standing idle with the mine in consequence of litiga 
tion. 

Mitchell. — The Mitchell mine, 1,200 feet long, is on a vein which runs north- 
east and southwest, and is 12 feet wide. The shaft is down 200 feet, and 
drifts have been run 100 feet on the vein. Some of the rock paid $60 to the 
ton, and thousands of tons have been worked. The mine is troubled by water, 
and common rumor in the neighborhood says the late explorations have not been 
in the pay chimney. There is a 20-stamp mill, which, as well as the mine, is 
standing idle. 

Golden Gate. — The Golden Gate, two miles from Volcano, is 1,800 feet long 
on a vein three feet wide. A depth of 220 feet has been reached, and drifts have 
been run 350 feet on the vein, in pay chimneys all the way. About 2,800 tons 
have been worked, and rumor in the neighborhood says the yield has been 
$45,000, or $16 per ton. The mine is being opened further, but a 10-stamp mill 
belonging to the mine is standing idle. 

Sirocco. — The Sirocco mine, a mile and a half west of Volcano, is 2,500 feet 
long, on a vein which is four feet wide, and runs north and south. A depth of 
350 feet has been reached, and drifts have run 700 feet on the vein. The total 
number of tons worked has been 9,000, and the average yield of free gold in 
1866 was $15. Xear the surface some of the rock paid $80 per ton. The vein 
grows wider and the pay less per ton in proportion to the distance from the sur- 
face. Ten per cent, of the vein matter is sulphurets, which yield on an average 
$80 per ton. There is enough ore in sight to keep the 10-stamp mill busy for 
two years. Before 1867, the sulphurets were sold to Mr. Thoss ; now they are 
saved. 

Kelly. — The Kelly mine has one claim 1,200 feet long and another 1,500 
feet long on two veins which intersect each other ; one running north 30° cast, 
and the other north 70° east. Both are intersected by a little vein which runs 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 81 

east fintl west, and tliough small is full of metal. A depth of 80 feet lias 
been reached, and drifts have been run 150 feet. The rock averaged $14. A 
mill containing two stamps and two arrastras was erected in 1857, and ran four 
years, but has since been idle, and so has the mine. 



SECTION VII. 

EL DORADO COUNTY. 

El Dorado county lies between the Cosumnes and the Middle fork of the 
American river, and extends from the eastern boundary of the State to near the 
Sacramento plain. It was in this county that J\Iarsliall made his discovery of 
the gold on the 19th Januar}^, 1848; and El Dorado was previous to ] 853 called 
the Empire county, because it was for a time the most populous in the State, but 
it is now surpassed by many others. 

In this county we observe various features not found in Mariposa, Tuolumne, 
Calaveras, or Amador. 

Granite appears as the bed rock on the western border of the mining region. 

No rich quartz veins are found in the granite at an elevation of 2,500 feet or 
more above the sea. 

The lime belt, which is distinctly traceable across Tuolumne, Calaveras, and 
Amador, appears at Indian Diggings in El Dorado, and then seems to be lost. 

A new lime belt appears very distinctly twelve miles west of the main belt. 
In this new belt is the beautiful Alabaster cave, near Centreville. 

El Dorado has 25 ditches, with a total length of 821 miles, constructed at a 
cost of $1,500,000. Of these the principal are the South Fork, the Pilot Hill, 
and the Michigan Flat ditches. 

Towns. — Piacerville, the county seat, 50 miles from Sacramento, on the bank 
of Ilangtown creek, has some hill diggings and quartz, and is the most pros- 
perous town in the county. The principal mining towns are Georgetown, 14 
miles north; Coloma, 10 miles northwest; Diamond Springs, three miles west ; 
El Dorado, or Mud Springs, five miles west; Grizzly Flat, 20 miles southeast; 
Indian Diggings, 25 miles southeast; and Kelsey, seven miles north. 

Shingle Spkings Railkoad. — El Dorado county has a railroad 26 miles 
long, extending from Folsum to Shingle Springs. It was commenced with the 
intention of extending it across the Sierra, but the work was stopped when 
the road reached Shingle Springs in 1865, and there is -no probability of its- 
resumption soon. The terminus of the road is 1 1 miles from Piacerville. 

Placerville Wagon Road. — The Piacerville road is the best wagon road; 
across the Sierra Nevada. It cost $585,000, and as now travelled from Shingle- 
Springs to Van Syckles, in Carson valley, is 82 miles long. The steepest grade- 
is six degrees. The total length of the stretches that exceed five degrees is a 
mile and a half; there are five miles of five degrees, 10 miles of four degrees, 
and most of the road is nnder two degrees, with a very regular and easy ascent.. 
In 1858 Sacramento and El Dorado counties each subscribed $25,000 to constrtict 
a wagon road across the mountains ; but the road was not good enough for the pur- 
pose, and in 1860 the present road was commenced by private enterprise, and was- 
finished in 1863. It was of vast service to the State and to Washoe during the 
silver excitement, and was for a time very profitable to the owners. Although 
other routes have lower passes and easier grades, no other can compete with this- 
for the ordinary purposes of wagon travel, because this is on the shortest route 
between Sacramento and Virginia City, is an excellent road, and is kept in fine 
condition. In 1863 the total amount' of tolls taken on the road was $190,000,. 
6 



82 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

and the expenses were $70,000 ; in 1SG6 tlie receipts were $65,000, and the 
expenses 850,000. The road is watered every evening along its whole length 
by water carts, which are stationed at intervals of tln-ee miles. Tliis is found to 
be the cheapest method of keeping the road in good condition, for if it were left 
dry it would have deep dust, which Avonld obstruct the wheels and l)low away, 
leaving deep ruts. About one-fourth of the expense in keeping the road in order 
is required to keep the snow down. Last winter snow lay for nine miles on the 
road, and 10 span of horses were kept for the special purpose of breaking it 
down. There Avas a station in the middle of the snow belt, and whenever it began 
to snow a man started with a team and a sled in each direction to the end of the 
snow belt and then drove back ; then took another team, and the horses were 
hept going as fast as they could. In this way the snow was packed down and 
the road was made hard and fit for travel. It would be useless to shovel the 
snow from the road, which would immediately drift full. The toil for a four- 
horse wagon li-om Shingle Springs to Van Syckles and back is 617 50, three- 
fourths being for the eastern tri]i. Most of the freight, however, has been earned 
in wagons drawn l)y more than four horses. The l»est teams have 10 mules and 
two wagons, the second wagon being smaller and fastened immediately to the 
first. An ordinary load for such a team is 20,000 pounds. The advantages of 
having two wagons instead of one are that one wagon, unless made in a most 
unwieldy manner, would not be strong enough to support the weight ; that the two 
wagons do not cut up the road; that if there is a mud-hole, only a small part of 
the weight is in it at a time ; that at any steep pitch in the road the wagons can 
be separated, and each hauled np separately; and that one teamster can as 
easily take care of two wagons as of one. The cost of the first wagon is about 
$600; of the second, $300; and of good mules, $300; making $3,900 as total 
cost, exclusive of harness. The tolls. on a round trip from Shingle Springs to 
Van Syckles are $26 25; and the total necessary outlay on a trip $240. This 
is the most extensive toll road in the United States. 

MiscELLAKEOUS Resoueces. — A considerable part of the marble used foi 
tombstones in California is obtained from a marble quarry at Indian Diggings. 
Stealite, or soapstone, of very good quality is obtained from a quarry near Pla- 
cervillc, and numerous places in the county suppl}' a chalk-like silicate of lime 
that is used in San Francisco for polishing metals, especially silver-ware. The 
county has 85,000 acres of enclosed land, 22,000 acres under cultivation, 1,164,000 
grape-vines, 91,000 apple trees, 52,000 peach trees, saws 10,000,000 feet of 
lumber annually, has taxable property assessed at $3,500,000, and casts 5,000 
votes. Agriculture has made more progress in this than in any other mountain 
county, perhaps because of its pi'oximit}- to Nevada, which it supplies with fresh 
and canned fruit, with wine, and with many kinds of vegetables. The posses- 
sion of the Placerville road across the mountains has done much to bring business 
to the county. The Alabaster cave in the northwestern corner, and Lake Tahoe 
at the northeastern, are both places of fashionable resort. 

TnE Blue Chai^^nel. — There are several old channels in El Dorado county, 
and they appear to belong to two ditferent systems of drainage and periods of 
existence. They may be distinguished as the blue and the gray, according to 
the color of the cement or gravel found in their beds. The blue is prior in time, 
and only one blue channel has been distinctly traced in the county. It runs 
from the northwest to the southeast, nearly with the course of the slates, and has 
been found at White Rock, Smith's Flat, and Tryagain tunnel. The channel 
is 220 feet wide, and 250 feet above the level of Weaver creek. The rim ]ock 
is never less than eight feet higher than the bottom of tlie channel. The cenjent 
is harder and more brittle, and contains more quartz, and quartz of a bluer color, 
and pebbles smaller and more uniform in size than the gray cement. This 
channel, with its well-defined banks and a deep covering of lava, formed a bed 
in which ran a subterranean stream of water that broke out in springs on the hill- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 83 

side, wliere the cliannel was cut tlirougli l>y Weber creek, and the quantity 
of water was sufficient to supply Placen-ille when it had 4,000 inhabitants. A 
tunnel company working in the basin of Hangtown creek cut a tunnel across 
this old channel, and the stream of water which had previously run down to 
Weber creek then ran out through this tunnel into Ilangtown creek. The tunnel 
company sold the water to the Placerville Water Company, but the South Fork 
Canal Company, which had previously appropriated the Avater of Ilangtown 
creek, brought suit for the water on the ground that Ilangtown creek was the 
natural outlet for this water, and that they owned it by prior right. Professor 
Silliman was called as a witness by the defendants, and after examination he 
testified that the waters never had run into Hangtown creek, but that until the 
tunnel was cut their only escape was at the springs on the bank of Weber creek. 
The plaintiffs, after seeing the testimony, discontinued the suit. This is the only 
case known to us of a legal investigation into the character of an ancient aurifer- 
ous channel in California. 

Geat Channels. — The gray cement is in several channels, which rise 20 
miles or further east of Brockliss's bridge, and runs westward across the blue 
channel and at a higher level in the divides between the present streams. The graj' 
cement is from 20 to 50 feet deep, and is found on both sides of Ilangtown creek, 
in high hills, which have been prospected along a length of 10 miles, and worked 
with profit in many places. The old channels were cut through by numerous 
ravines, which carried the gold down to the creek, and thus made the bed of 
that stream rich as it was in early days. The following are the principal claims 
on the Weber divide, south of Hangtown creek, commencing at Coon Hollow, on 
the north side, and going eastward. 

Claims on Weber Divide. — Aldersen Brothers Hydraulic claim has been 
worked 12 years, has paid largely, and emploj's six men. The claim is 150 feet 
deep, and uses 200 inches of water. 

The Phillips and Parker claim is 800 feet long by 300 wide, and 80 deep. It 
employs three men, and has paid well at times. 

The Italian claim, 1,000 feet long, was worked for years by hydraulic process, 
but now the pay dirt is brought out through a tunnel. 

The Weber claim is worked as a drift claim in the summer, when water is 
scarce, and as a hydraulic claim in the winter. It yields large pay. 

The claim of the San Francisco Cement Gravel Company is 1,200 feet long, 
running, as do the other claims along here, to the middle of the Hill Learsago. 
A tunnel was run 800 feet into this claim, and was abandoned because the gravel 
was too hard to wash in a sluice. The company are now about to pipe away 
the face of the hill preparatory to opening and retimbering the old tunnel, li 
is the expectation of the company to erect a mill to crush the cement. 

In the Buckeye claim the face of the hill is being piped away to make room 
for a cement mill. 

On the Cox claim. Cox's pan is being tried for the reduction of cement. It 
is a cast-iron pan, six feet in diameter, and 18 inches deep, with four iron arms 
projecting on a level with the top of the pan from a central vertical axis, 
and from each arm project three strong wrought-iron fingers, reaching down to 
within an inch of the bottom of the pan. In the bottom are a number of holes, 
an eighth of an inch wide, and half an inch long, through which holes the pulver- 
ized matter escapes. The bottom is of white chilled iron. A charge of 1,200 
pounds of cement is thrown in, a stream of five inches of water is turned on, and 
the arms are started, making 20 or 30 revolutions per minute. In seven 
minutes and a half all the pebbles and boulders are washed clean, and they 
are discharged through a gate into a sluice prepared for the special pm'pose of 
carrying them off. There is another .sluice for washing the fine matter. Charg- 
ing and discharging occupy two minutes and a half, but the discharging gate is 
to be enlarged, so that the discharge will not occupy more than a quarter of 



84 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

a minute, instead of two minutes, as at present. By this pan 40 tons can be 
worked in 12 hours, more than would be done by a 15-stamp mill, and the 
work is done in better style, because the pebbles and boulders which form 
from 50 to 75 jier cent, of the cement are excluded from the sluice in which 
the gold is caught. The greater the quantity of base matter earned through 
the sluice, the greater the danger of the loss of gold. The power is sup- 
plied by a hurdy-gurdy wheel, which is eight feet in diameter, four inches in 
thickness, with buckets four inches deep, and nine inches apart. The power 
is nominally by 19 inches of water, but much is lost through leakage, and the 
proprietor of the pan asserts that he does not use more than 12 inches imder 
a head of 260 feet. The wheel is made by bolting together two layers of two- 
inch plank, laid crosswise. The cost of the wheel was SlOO, and of the 
machinery, including pan, gearing, and all, less than $1,500. The cement in 
this claim appears to be nearly as hard as any found elsewhere. 

In the Italian claim a tunnel is being riin to be 800 feet long. 

The Van Dusen claim has a tunnel 800 feet long, and is standing idle because 
of the hardness of the cement. 

The Hardy Brothers have a hydraulic claim, which has been worked three 
years. 

McOonnell & Co. have the next claim, and work it by the hydraulic process. 

Stewart and Hall have crushed th'eu- cement in an eight-stamp mill, which is 
now standing idle. 

The Scott Brothers' claim is 1,000 feet long, was opened by a tunnel in 1854, 
and was abandoned because of the hardness of the cement. "Work has now been 
resumed in the expectation of erecting a mill. 

Claims oj^ Reseevoir Hill. — North of Placcrv^ille, on the north side of 
Reservoir Hill, commencing at the west, are the following claims, viz : 

Hancock and Salter s hydraulic claim, drained by a tunnel, and open cut 1,500 
feet long, has been worked by two men five years, employs 100 inches of water, 
and pays well. 

The Friar claim has yielded $50,000, but after leaving the surface the miners 
found the cement so hard they could not wash it, and nothing was done on it 
for years. A San Francisco comjiany is now at work, opening it by a tunnel, to 
be 1,000 feet long, and to be finished in two years. 

The Slide claim is being opened by a tunnel, to be several hundred feet long. 
This claim never yielded much. 

The Pioneer claim is worked by drifting, and has paid very high. It has been 
worked for 12 years. 

The George Barlow claim is also worked by drifting, and has paid well at 
times. 

The Live-oak claim is worked through a tunnel, and has yielded $50,000 or 
$60,000. Under this claim runs the blue channel. 

The lloanoke claim has the repute of having been one of the richest claims on 
the chaimel, but nothing could be ascertained of its yield. 

On the south side of Reservoir Hill are the folloAving claims, viz : 

The Trask claim is worked by the hydraulic process by a company of China- 
men with very little profit. 

Tlie Oklfield is a hydraulic claim. 

The "Wolverine was worked with much profit in early days, and then lay idle 
for a long time. "Work has lately been resumed on it. It seems that there was 
a slide which threw the pay stratum out of its regular position in this clanii. 

The Ohio has a tunnel 800 feet long, employs live men, is paying well, and 
has been worked for 12 years. 

Crusen & Co. have a claim on "Wisconsin flat, and are trying to reach the Blue 
channel through a tunnel 1,200 feet long, from the end of which they are sinking 
a shaft to be 80 feet deep. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 85 

The Granite Company are ninning a tunnel to strike the Blue channel, and 
are in several liunclred feet. . 

The Deep Channel Company has been at work seven or eight years. The 
dirt is hoisted through an incline by horse power, and pays $4 to the car load. 
Most of their cement is crushed in the 10-stamp custom mill of P. M. Taft. 

The Blue Lead Company employ 10 or 15 men in their claim, and crush 
then- cement, which yields about $8 per ton, in a 10-stamp mill, driven by 30 
inches of water over a wheel 45 feet in diameter. 

The Buchanan, Fremont, Henry Clay, and Hook and Ladder Companies, 
facing Smith's Flat on the east, have had some very rich claims. 

Redd & Co. have a five-stamp custom mill, and crush cement for the Hook and 
Ladder Company. 

Spanish Hill Claims. — On Spanish Hill, east of Placerville, are the follow- 
ing claims, viz : 

Hoxie's claim, which is now exhausted. It paid from $10 to $16 per day to 
the hand for several years. 

The Stogy Tunnel claim was equally rich, and is worked out. 

The Bay State was also rich, and is not exhausted, but has been consolidated 
with the next claim, and is worked by hj^draulic. 

The Hook and Ladder claim has a crevice 175 feet, and a tunnel 600 feet long, 
running to the bottom of the crevice. The hill is to be washed down through 
the tunnel. 

The Golden Gate and Duroc claims come next, and have been consolidated. 
Two auriferous quartz veins are found in the slate bed rock in these claims, and 
it is supposed that some of the gold came from the decomposition of the slate. 

The Hoxie, Stogy, Bay State, Hook and Ladder, Golden Gate, and Duroc 
claims have yielded together not less than $200,000. 

Indian Diggings. — Indian Diggings, 25 miles southeastward from Placer- 
ville, is on the limestone belt, and is the furthest north of all the large mining 
camps on that belt. No solid bed rock is found here. It is supposed that 
pay gravel is found 200 feet from the surface, and to drain the diggings to that 
depth would require a tunnel a mile long. At Slug gulch a shaft was sunk 
down through what appeared to be solid limestone bed rock into a stratum of 
limestone boulders. A ditch of water was accidentally turned into this shaft, 
and the water ran there for several days withoi'it any accumulation of water in 
the shaft. No outlet was ever discovered. Brownsville, at the side of the Indian 
Diggings, may be considered part of the same place, and the two together have 
about 20 acres of deep diggings, which will not be exhausted for many years. 
Indian Diggings and Brownsville, unlike Columbia and Volcano, do not wash 
with a pipe in a dump box. 

The Douglas hydraulic claim, the most notable chxim at Brownsville, is 180 
feet square, and was worked for 10 years previous to 1866. In 1856 and 1857 
it yielded $55,000, and since the latt"er year has paid little over expenses There 
has been no work of late for lack of drainage. An open cut has been started 
to drain the claim, so that it can be washed 20 feet deeper; 700 feet of the cut 
have been completed ; there is a quarter of a mile still to be done, and several 
years may elapse before it is finished. 

Placerville Mining Regulations.— Each district in this county has its 
own mining regulations. 

The mining regulations of the Placerville district, adopted March 21, 1863, 
provide that — 

Each claimant may hold 200 feet in length upon a ledge or lode with all its dips, spurs 
and angles, and 250 feet upon each side thereof. 

Each claim must be filed for record within five days of posting notice thereof, and tho 
notice must distinctly specify the general direction of the claim, ledge, or lode, and the record 
made accordingly. 



86 KESOURCES OF STATES AND TEEEITOEIES 

Each company shall l)e required to expend at least seven days' work upon the 
ledge or lode held by them for and in every month of the time said claim is held; 
otherwise the same may be considered as abandoned. 

The number of quartz claims on record is 186. 

Tho following are copies of notices entered in the record book : 

Notice is hereby giveu that we the unclersij^ned claim 1,000 feet on this ledge, commencing 
at this notice and running in a northerly direction to a stake and pile of stones, and that we 
intend to hold and work the same according to the laws of the Placerville mining district. 
Said claim is situated in H. S. Ilulburd's ranch, in Placerville. May 23, 1867. 

[Signatures.] 
Notice is hereby given that we the undersigned claim 1,500 feet each way from this notice, 
on any and all quartz lodes discovered in sinking this shaft. July 18, 18GG. 

L Signatures. J 

Mud Springs Minik'G Regulations. — The following are the principal 
provisions of tlie mining regulations of the El Dorado or Mud Springs district, 
adopted April 7, 1863 : 

No person sliall be allowed to hold more fhan 300 feet by location on the same ledge, but 
can hold GOO feet in width for the purpose of prospecting and delining his lead or ledge. The 
discoverer of a ledge is entitled to an extra claim. 

A notice upon a claim to be valid must be Avritten with ink, and placed upon 
a board, stake, or tree in as conspicuous a place as possilde, and upon, or as near 
the ledge as can be. Such notice must state the number of feet claimed, describing 
as accurately as possible the boundaries thereof, containing all the names of the 
claimants with the date truly affixed ; a true copy of which must be recorded by 
the district recorder within 20 days from the date of such notice, or such claim 
shall be considered forfeited. 

Notice upon a claim holds the same for 20 days only. Recording the notice 
of a claim holds the same for 90 days only, before the expiration of which time 
labor to the amount of $2 50 for each 300 feet in the claim must be expended 
upon the claim l)y the company, Avhich Avill hold the same for 15 months from 
the date of record. Non-compliance Avith the provisions of this article by any 
company will be construed as an abandonment by them of their claim. 

In case of dispute between parties claiming the same ledge or lead, each of 
the contending parties may choose an arbitrator, and the two may choose a third 
person, who shall be disinterested. The three shall constitute a board of arbi- 
trators, whose decision shall be final, unless notice of an appeal be given within 
ten days of the rendition of the decision. 

There is no provision requiring a description of boundaries. 

The number of claims on record is 40. The following is a copy of one of 
the notices recorded : 

DuY Creek, April 1, 18G3. 

Know all men by these presents that we the undersigned claim 45 claims on this lode, 
300 lect each, making in all 13,500 feet, and intend prospecting the said claims for coal, cop- 
per, silver, gold, or any other minerals it may contain, running in a northerly direction 
13,000 feet and southerly 500 feet, with all its dips, angles, and spurs. 

[Forty -five signatures.] 

Geoegetown Mining Regulations. — The following are a portion of tho 
quartz regulations of the Georgetown mining district, adopted December 10, 
1866: 

The size of claims to each person locating shall be 200 feet of or on any quartz lode or 
ledge, including all dips, spurs, angles, and all surface ground and minerals which may be 
contained within the space of 150 feet on each side of said ledge or vein located ; but no 
company's claim shall exceed 3,000 feet in length on any one vein or ledge. 

Tlie discoverer of a vein or lode of minerals shall be entitled to one claim for his discovery. 

All notices of claims located, whether individual or company, shall describe the locality 
of said mine, the number of feet claimed, the point where measurement commences, and 
name the lode or company locating. 

Said notice shall be posted on the lode, and shall hold the claim for 10 days from the date 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 87 

thereof without record, but no claim shall be held valid without record after the expiration 
of said time unless labor is being done on said claim 

All notices of quartz mining claims are required to be recorded unless labor is being done 
on the claim, by a recorder elected by the miners of Georgetown quartz mining district. 

Said distiict recorder shall keep a book, record all claims, copy the notice, and give the 
names of the members of each company. 

It shall be the duty of the recorder to go upon the ground and define the claim, measuring 
and staking the saine, and he shall receive for such service the sum of 50 cents for each name, 
and if not required to perform such service, to receive <!5 cents only. 

Any person or corporated company locating a mining claim within this district shall be 
required to have expended in actual labor upon each and every claim not exceeding 1,200 
feet, and a proportionate amount for larger or smaller claims, the sum of $50, within tiO days 
from the date of the record, and $150 within six months from the date of record, and a like 
amount for every additional six months until the sum of $500 shall have been expended. 

Whenever the sum of $500 shall have been expended in prospecting or development of the 
mine, whether by sinking shafts, running tunnels, cuts, or drifts, whether on the ledge or in 
the direction thereof, designed practically to develop the claim, then and thereafter for the 
term of two years said claim shall be held by the parties peforming the labor or expending the 
said amount; but no labor being performed for tlie period of two years, the said claim shall 
be considered abandoned and subject to relocation. 

Reed. — The Reed mine, 2,000 feet long, is three miles south of Placerville, has 
a greenstone hanging wall, a slate foot wall, and a vein 18 feet wide. The 
quartz, as found by a shaft running down 80 feet prospects well, and a 10-stamp 
mill is going up. 

Pacific. — The Pacific mine, 1,800 feet long, is on the same lode, and is 
within the limits of Placerville. The mine was opened in 1852, and was worked 
till 1862, when it caved in, and then it laj^ idle four years. Latel)' a Boston 
company has purchased it and opened the main shaft to a depth of 320 feet, and 
found some good quartz, but not enough to commence work upon. The quartz 
is a ribbon rock, tinged in places witli a green color. The total yield of the 
mine is reported to have been $500,000, and the annual average profit for seven 
or eight years $30,000. The new shaft was started 120 feet northeastward of 
the working vein, and in going down 300 feet four veins were intersected, each 
about six feet thick, all containing similar quartz and all widening out as they 
go down. The two middle veins thus far reached arc mixed with a large pro- 
portion of talcose slate, and appear to be barren. The westernmost of the fom- 
veins has produced all the gold of the Pacific mine in a depth of 200 feet, in a 
pay chimney 200 feet long. The chimney was nearly vertical, but dipped slightly 
to the north. A 20-stamp mill, erected in 1853, is standing idle. 

Haemon. — The Harmon mine, 1,400 feet long, just north of Placerville, is 
on a vein which is 100 yards west of the Pacific lode, and is 30 feet wide in 
places, though the average is not over four or five. The vein stone is a white 
quartz with seams of black slate, and a considerable proportion of sulphurets of 
u-on and lead. It was worked with arrastras and paid high; and then a 15- 
stamp mill was erected, but that has not been profitable and is now idle. The 
reputed cause of the trouble is the difficulty of reducing the undecomposed sul- 
phurets found below the water-line. 

Shepard. — The Shepard mine is 1,200 feet long, on a vein two feet wide, 
near Placerville. The claim was opened at the end of 1866, and yielded some 
rich pockets of beautiful foliated gold. The specimens extracted were worth 
$5,000. The mill rock from its appearance must have contained at least $30 
per ton. The vein matter was much of it an ochrous earth, intersected with 
seams of quartz. The rock was worked through a crusher and two arrastras 
driven by steam. ]\Iuch of the vein has been opened by open cut to a depth of 
fifteen feet. 

Cleopatra. — The Cleopatra, 1,200 feet long, on the same vein, is to be 
opened to a depth of 100 feet, and then if the rock prospects well a mill is to be 
erected with a capacity to crush 20 tons per day ; the contractor to receive half 
half the mine for opening it and erecting the mill. 



88 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

White axd Burdick. — White and Burdick own two claims, one of 2,000, 
the oiher of 1,800 feet, on the same vein. The claim of 1,800 feet has been 
opened to a depth of 75 feet, but the mine caved in several years since and is not 
well reopened yet. JMiners have been working at it since last year. There is 
a 10-stamp mill, which Avas built in 1861. 

Persevere. — The Persevere mine, 4,200 feet, at Poverty Point, near Placer- 
ville, is on a vein live feet wide. A depth of 155 feet has been reached and a 
drift has been run 45 feet on the vein. No mill has been erected yet. 

White. — The White mine, 2,000 feet long, near Placerville, has a 15-stamp 
mill, which is idle. A new shaft is now being sunk. The rock is rich in sul- 
phurets. 

Manning. — The Manning mine, five miles eastward from Placerville, has a 
vein two feet wide, a shaft 180 feet deep, and a six-stamp mill. No work is 
being done. 

Elle Ellen.— The Elle Ellen, 2,000 feet long, is half a mile from the Man- 
ning, on a vein which runs northwest and southeast, is nine feet wide, and dips? 
to the east at an angle of 80°. The hanging wall is hard blue slate, and the 
foot wall brown slate. There is a tunnel 100 feet long run on the vein. There 
is no mill. 

Epplet. — The Eppley mine, 1,200 feet long, two miles and a half south of 
Placerville, has been opened to a depth of 85 feet, and 30 tons of rock sent to 
mill have yielded $1,500, or $50 per ton. The mine is to be opened further, and 
so soon as enough good quartz to pay for a mill is in sight, one will be built. 

Davidson. — The Davidson mine, a mile and a quarter northwest of Placer- 
ville, has a tunnel 350 feet long and a shaft ICO feet deep. The quartz pros- 
pects well, l)ut none has been worked as yet. The New York and El Dorado 
mill, of 20 stamps, has been purchased to be erected on this mine. 

Montezuma. — The Montezuma Quartz Mining Company, an English asso- 
ciation, own claims on four veins seven miles south of El Dorado, and are working 
two of the claims. That on the Montezuma vein is 1,900 feet long; has been 
worked since 1851, and has 3'ielded $150,000. The lode runs north and south, 
is three feet wide, lias slate walls and ril)bon quartz, which averages $10 per ton. 
There is a black clay slate gouge on the hanging wall. A depth of 180 feet 
has been reached and drifts have been run 180 feet on the vein. The McDowell 
vein is seven feet Avide, three-quarters of a mile east of the Montezuma and 
parallel with it. A depth of 25 feet has been reached. There is a 20-stamp 
mill, made to run either by steam or water. The Montezuma Company have 
invested $100,000 in the property, and it is said they are the only English com- 
pany mining for gold now in California. 

New York and El Dorado mill. — The New York and El Dorado mill was 
erected at a cost of $20,000, five miles south of El Dorado, by a New York com- 
pany under representations that they possessed a splendid mine ; but they found 
nothing, and the mill has been sold for $2,500 to be moved to Davidson's mine, 
a mile and a quarter northwest of Placerville. 

Hermitage. — The Hermitage mine, six miles south of El Dorado, at Sugar 
Loaf, is on a pocket vein and has paid irregularly, yielding $100,000 in all. 
A mill was erected in 1852 and taken down, and a second mill of 20 stamps 
was erected in 1866, at a cost of $17,500, by a Boston company, which paid 
$38,000 for the mine. The vein is 10 feet wide, and a depth of 175 feet has 
been reached. A tunnel is being run to intersect the shaft at a distance of 170 
feet. It is said that there is a large quantity of pay rock in sight suitable for 
milling, but most of the gold heretofore obtained has been taken out in a hand 
mortar. The mine was discovered b}^ placer miners, who folloAved up a rich 
streak of gold in gravel till it stopped at this quartz vein. 

Union. — The Union lode runs north 10° east, dips east at an angle of 80°, 
and is from 3 to 12 feet thick in slate walls, which, according to Professor Sil* 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS 89 

limaii, wlio made a rejiort on the mine, is striated in lines dippini^f to the south- 
east. The quartz is soft, fissile, and ferruginous.* The stope north of the shaft 
yielded 15,000 tons, from which, according to the books kept at the mill, $450,000 
were obtained. A large part of the claim is unexplored, and its value is merely 
conjectural beyond the pay chimney at the shaft. The Cosumncs lode is 120 
feet west of the Union, and has the same dip and general course, although there 
are some bends in it. It is three or four feet thick, and the quartz bears a strong 
resemblance to that of the Princeton mine. The walls are of coal black shale, 
and there is a black putt}^ gongc on the eastern wall. This vein has a shaft 
120 feet deep. Some of the croppings were very .rich and yielded most of 
$150,000 taken out by the mill from rock that did not come from the Union mine. 

Wilder. — The Wilder quartz mine, a mile and a half west of El Dorado, is on 
a vein three feet wdde, containing quartz that yields $9 per ton. An eight-stamp 
water-mill has been running two years. 

Pocahontas. — The Pocahontas mine, two miles south of El Dorado, has a vein 
four feet wide and a pay chimney a 100 feet long, averaging $15 per ton. There 
is a 10-stamp mill which has been at work one year, and has paid for itself 
and for all the work done in opening the mine. 

Ukion Church. — The Union Church Gold Mining Company have claims on 
three veins, three miles southeast of El Dorado. The Union claim has been 
worked since 1852, has been stoped to a depth of 160 feet, and has yielded a 
large amount of gold. There is water in this claim now, and it is being taken 
out preparatory to sinking. The Cosumnes claim is now being worked, and the 
rock yields $10 or $12 per ton. 

Gray. — The Gray mine, three miles east of Shingle Springs, is a rich deposit 
of decomposed quartz in a vein five feet wide. On one occasion specimens Avorth 
$10,000 were taken out in one day. A depth of GO feet has been reached. 
There is a 10-stamp mill, built in 1865. 

Bryant. — The Bryant mine, two miles south of El Dorado, yielded $20,000 
in one pocket, wdiich was emptied in three days in 1857. Considerable quantities 
of quartz, sent to a mill four miles off, paid well. The mill ran several years, 
then was abandoned, and now a 20-stamp steam mill is to be built. A depth 
of 150 feet has been reached, and drifts have been run 600 feet on the vein. 

Beard. — The Beard mine, two miles south of El Dorado, has yielded $250,000, 
proving very profitable at times. The gold was deposited chiefly in numerous 
little chimneys or streaks, which the miners followed. There was a 10-stamp 
mill in 1860, but it was moved away to the State of Nevada. 

The Jamison mine, at Aurum City, has been worked about a j-ear with an 
arrastra. 

Independence. — The Independence mine, 1,200 feet long, at Brownsville, 
is on a vein which runs east and west, is three and a half feet thick, and has 
granite for a hanging wall and ''blue trap," as the miners call it, for a foot wall. 
A tunnel has been run 400 feet on the vein, in pay all the way; 250 tons have 
been worked, and the yield has been $30 per ton, in the Tullock eight-stamp 
mill, rented for the purpose. The Independence mill is now being built and 
is to have 10 stamps. The quartz contains a large proportion of rich sulphurets. 

Stillttagon. — The Stillwagon mine, also at Brownsville, is on a vein simi- 
lar to that of the Independence. There is a five-stamp mill, which, with the 
labor of six men, took out $4,600 in May, ] 867. The average yield is $25 
per ton. 

There are no other quartz mines regularly at work at Brownsville. 

Sliger. — The Sliger mine, 400 feet long, is four miles southwest of George- 
town, on a vein four feet wide, between granite on the west and slate on the 
east. Five thousand dollars were taken out of a pocket near the surface. The 
mine is now being opened. 

Greenwood. — The Greenwood mine, five miles southwest of Georgetown, 



90 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

has been opened by a cross-tunnel 400 feet long. A 15-stamp mill lias just been 
erected, but work is not yet commenced at crushing. ' 

Taylor. — The Taylor mine, 3,000 feet long, is two and a half mill's south of 
Georgetown, on a lode that runs north-northwest and south-southeast, and is two 
feet wide at the surface, and six feet at a depth of 100 feet. A depth of 107 feet 
has been reached by an incline, and drifts have been run 41 feet. The vein is 
filled with seams of slate, but the quartz shows free gold in all parts of the mine. 
There is a black putty gouge two feet thick in places. Tlie west wall is bastard 
granite, the east slate. There is no mill. 

RosECRAKS. — The Rosecrans mine, 900 feet long, adjoins the Taylor on the 
Bouth. The shaft is down 40 feet; and GO tons crushed at a custom mill yielded 
$12 on an average. The vein has been uncovered for 280 feet along the surface, 
and it shows gold all the way. 

Blue Lead. — The Blue Lead, three miles south of Georgetown, has been 
opened by a San Francisco company to a depth of 250 feet and to considerable 
length. The quartz is mixed Avith blue slate and shows some fine specimens, 
but has not paid. A very fine 20-stamp mill has been erected, and about 
$250,000 have been invested permanently in the mine. Work has ceased. 

CoLLixs. — Li the Collins mine, one mile south of Georgetown, the vein has 
been reached 170 feet below the surface by a tunnel 250 feet long. The vein 
is eight feet wide, and the rock in sight will yield $15 per ton. 

Alpine. — Tlie Alpine, on the same vein, is four feet wide, is working with an 
arrastra, and obtains $12 per ton. The quartz is extracted through a tunnel 150 
feet long. The Mount Hojie Company, of San Francisco, own a claim of 3,000 
feet adjoining the Alpine. The vein is six feet wide, but is split up considerably. 
The shaft is 61 feet deep. 

The Phihidelphia Slide Company, of San Francisco, have 3,000 feet on a 
vein half a mile south of Georgetown, and have levied an assessment for the pm-- 
pose of erecting hoisting works. 

The Clipper mine, two and a half miles northeast of Georgetown, is 5,000 feet 
long, on a vein two and a half feet wide, running north and south between a 
granite foot wall and a slate hanging wall. The deepest workings are 80 feet 
from the surface. About 700 tons of quartz have been crushed, and the yield 
was $15 per ton. There is a stamp mill wdiich is not running. 

Woodside. — The Woodside mine in Georgetown is 1,200 feet long, on a 
vertical vein, which is two feet wide and runs northeast and southwest between 
slate walls. A shaft has been sunk 110 feet, and drifts have been run 40 feet 
on the vein. The average yield has been $30 per ton for mill rock, exclusive 
of specimens worth $12,000. On one occasion a mass of rock was found so 
tied together with seams of gold running tlu'ough it that a cold chisel had to be 
used to cut it. The pay chimney dips to the northeast. There is a five-stamp 
mill driven by water power, but it has had little to do lately, the mine having 
been filled with water last winter. The lode is rich in sulphurets, and has pecu- 
liar sheets of sulphurets about an eighth of an inch tliick, with transverse crys- 
tals running from side to side. Mr. Woodside is the inventor of a concentrator 
which he uses in his mill. It consists of a sheet of Iixdia-rubber cloth, 22 
inches wide and about eight feet long, sewed together at the ends and sti'ctched 
over two wooden rollers four inches in diameter and three feet apart. The 
rollers are placed on a frame horizontally, one three inches higher than the 
other. Tlie rollers turn so that the cloth makes three complete revolutions in a 
minute. A water pipe perforated with little holes passes above the cloth near 
the upper roller and discharges a number of little streams, which wash away the 
light sands and leave the heavy sulphurets to be carried up over the upper roller, 
and after passing that they ckop down into a box beneath. The concentrator 
has been tised in this mill for a year to the satisfaction of the inventor, but nobody 
else has adopted it. The mine was discovered by the gentleman whose name it 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 91 

bears. IIo piclied up a piece of auriferous quartz in a little ravine, and tlien 
sought for cropping?, and when he prized up a piece of rusty rock that peeped 
out of the ground, he found the under side of it speckled with gold. He imme- 
diatel}^ commenced work, and the mine paid its way from the surface to its 
present depth. 

James's Mill. — James's custom mill, with five stamps, eight miles south of 
Georgetown, is standing idle. 

Eureka. — The Eureka mine, on the same vein, north of the Woodside, is 
900 feet long, and has been opened to a depth of 130 feet. There is a steam 
hoisting establishment, but no mill, on the mine. 

Georgia Slide. — Georgia Slide, one mile north of Georgetown, is a mining 
camp on a hillside, where, under rich placers, are found aanultitude of small 
seams of decomposed auriferous quartz. Three companies are sluicing; one is 
working with a seven-stamp mill and aiiother is putting up an arrastra. The 
hillside has yielded an immense quantity of gold. 

Mosquito. — The Mosquito mine, eight miles east of Kelsey's, is in granite. 
A mill built in 1866 had its roof broken in by the weight of snow last winter. 

Plymouth. — The Plymouth mine, a mile and a half west of Kelsey's, is on 
a vein very irregular in width, but averaging seven feet. The rock averages 
$18 per ton; but 15 tons, selected carefully from 700 tons, yielded $8,000. The 
quartz contains eight per cent, of sulphurets. 

Gopher. — The Gopher mine, a mile west of Kelsey's, has three veins, with 
an aggregate thickness of eighteen feet. Most of the pay is in the western vein. 
The rock is a ribbon quartz, rich in sulphurets, and there are slate walls on both 
sides. A depth of 100 feet was reached, but the old works have caved in, and 
the mine has not been reopened. In 18-58 the mine yielded $15,600. There 
was a mill, which has been moved to Washoe. 

Last Chance. — The Last Chance mine, 800 feet long, is opposite Coloma, 
on the north side of the south fork of the American river. The vein runs north 
and south, dips to the west at an angle of 50°, and varies in width from 2 to 
12 feet. The eastern wall is greenstone, and the western granite; but on the 
western side, for a depth of 400 feet on the hillside, there was no wall — only 
a bed of gravel, which has been sluiced away, leaving the quartz exposed, so 
that an immense quantity of rock can be obtained without using either shaft or 
tunnel. Two men can take out 20 tons in a day ready for the mill. Both 
free gold and sulphurets are abundant, but some selection is necessary. The 
total yield, as reported by one of the owners, has been $60,000, though rumor 
among outsiders says it has been $200,000. One lot of 500 tons of quartz paid 
only $2 per ton ; then 30 tons yielded $250 per ton ; and five tons of the best 
yielded $40,000. There is a lO-stamp mill, with a Joinville turbine, driven by 
60 inches of water under 70 feet of head. Amalgamation is effected in the mor- 
tar and on copper plates ; the tailings are concentrated on blankets, and the 
Ijlanket washings are worked in an arrastra. A railway track, 2,100 feet long, 
is being laid from the mine to the mill, and when it is finished the proprietors 
expect that their entire expenses will not exceed $3 per ton. The owners of this 
mine are Danes, and it is generally known as the Danes' mine, though that name 
belongs to the next claim. 

The Danes' mine, 2,200 feet, is on the same vein as the last, but has produced 
nothing and is unopened. 

Reward. — The Reward is 1,400 feet long, one mile southwest from Union- 
to^vn. The rock prospects well, and the walls are slate on the west and granite 
on the east. A tunnel is being run in to strike the vein 135 feet from the sm-- 
face. 



92 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

SECTION VIII. 

PLACER COUNTY. 

Placer is a large coiint}^, and the onl}^ one that reaches from the Sacramento 
river to the eastern boimdary of the State. It extends Avith the meridian from 
the middle fork of the American to Bear river. 

Its chief mineral wealth is in the Blue lead, which crosses the county at an 
elevation of 3,000 feet above the sea, and is worked at Dutch Flat, Gold Run, 
Indiana Hill, Iowa Hill, Picayune Divide, Yankee Jim, and Forest Hill. An- 
cient gravel deposits appear also at Todd's Vallej-, Paradise, Bath, Michigan 
Bluff, Damascus, and Monona Flat. 

The surface placers of the county produce very little now. The count}-, in 
proportion to the richness of placers, has, so far as known, the poorest quartz 
mines in the State. The Green Emigrant mine, lately opened, has produced 
some rich specimens, but the o'v\Tiers keep the amount secret, and they have no 
mill ; and no other quartz mine in Placer has paid any considerable profit. 

]MiscELLAKEOUS Kesoueces. — Nearly all of the Central Pacific railroad in 
California is in this county, and the people have derived considerable profit from 
it in one way or another. The county is also crossed by the unfinished road 
from Lincoln to I^Iar^^sville. 

The county is supplied with water for mining and irrigation b}' the Bear river, 
South Yuba, Dutch Flat, Michigan Bluff", and numerous smaller ditches. Their 
total number is 29; their length, 699 miles; their cost, 62,000,000. 

The western and lower part of the county has much good farming land. 
There are GO, 000 acres of land enclosed, 20,000 cultivated, including 3,000 in 
wheat, 310,000 grape vines, 30,000 apple trees, as many peach trees, 5,000 head 
of neat cattle, 20,000 sheep, 20 saw-mills, which turn out 10,000,000 feet of 
lumber annually, 14 toll-roads 131 miles long, made at a cost of 6350,000, and 
63,000,000 of taxable property. 

The Forest Hill Divide. — Tlie Forest Hill ridge, on the southeni line of 
the county, at an elevation varying from 3,000 to 3,500 feet above the sea, has 
the rich nnning camps o± Todd's Vallej', Forest Hill, Bath, and Michigan Bluff, 
on the south side of the ridge, and Yankee Jim and Damascus on the north. 
Todd's Valley, Michigan Bluff, and Yankee Jim had chiefly hydraulic claims, 
and are now nearly worked out. Bath has cement claims, and is more prosperous 
than ever, besides being a pretty town prettily situated. Forest Hill has declined 
much, but it has a large body of rich ground, and will probably see a return of 
prosperity. 

Yankee Jim was a long time the chief trading point for this divide, but now 
it has lost its trade, as well as exhausted its placers. 

The gold at Damascus has the peculiarity that a tin-cup-full of it will weigh 
20 per cent, more than an equal measure of the common dust. 

Forest Hill. — Forest Hill, which has been the most productive cement 
tunnel-mming district in the State, is situated 22 miles eastward from Auburn, 
at an elevation of 3,400 feet high, on the summit of the divide between the 
middle fork of the American and Shirt Tail canon. The town is 2,500 feet 
above the level of the middle fork, and about a mile distant. The scenery 
along the canon is grand. Five miles further up the divide is Michigan Bluff, 
and the Auburn stage runs through to that point; but there is no other stage 
running to Forest Hill. The canons north and south are too deep and steep for 
much wagon travel. The Forest Hill ridge appears to be composed of aurifer- 
ous gravel covered by volcanic sand, but the Forest Hill diggings are in the Blue 
lead which crosses the ridge from north to south. These diggings are 500 feet 
below the summit and 2,000 feet above the level of the river. 

The Blue Lead at Forest Hill, — In the Blue lead the lowest stratum 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 93 

resting on the slate-bed rock is tlie blue cement proper, from 5 to 20 feet in 
tliickness; above that is a red gravel,' 100 -feet thick; and over that is vol- 
canic sand, which is covered in places by a stratum of trachytic boulders and 
soil. The blue cement is harder than the red gravel. The boulders and pebbles 
in the red gravel are all of quartz ; those in the blue are quartz, slate, and green- 
stone. The red gi-avel has smooth gold in coarse pieces, most of them -wei^^hing 
two pennyweights or more, and some as much as seven ounces, and 900 fine. 
The gold in the blue cement is fine, flaky, 860 fine, the largest piece not worth 
more than 75 cents. The slate-bed rock is soft, and the gold is found in its 
seams to a depth of four feet. This gold is coarse, and is black externally, so 
that a person not familiar with it would not suspect its value on looking at it. 
The Blue lead contains large quantities of sulphurets, which are rich in gold. 

The claims at Forest Hill are 50 feet along the side of the hill to the person, 
and extend in to the middle of the hill, a distance varying from 2,000 to 5,000 
feet. 

Careless WorkiI\'G. — Instead of Avorking the claim regularly from end to 
end, the companies generally sought to get out the richest and the softest dirt; 
and they changed about from place to place nearly every week, so they had not 
much room to work. They could not afford to lay tracks dovvu to haul out their 
gravel; many of their drifts could be used for only a brief period, and the top 
caved down in the spots which they had worked, enclosing good gi'ound, the 
position of which cannot now be ascertained without much expense. The New 
Jersey claim was the most notable exception to this mode of procedm'e in the 
district. 

Future of Forest Hill. — J. "VV. Reamer, superintendent of that company, 
is of the opinion that Forest Hill might be made more productive than ever l)y 
consolidating the claims and working them systematically on a large scale. 
There ought to be a large tunnel for each, half a mile, 60 feet below the level 
of the present tunnels, so as to be certain of having drainage for the deepest 
gravel that could be found. These tunnels should be made for the purpose of 
using mules to haul out the gravel and haul in the cars. There should be large 
mills to crush the cement ; the sulphurets should be saved carefully, and all the 
pay dirt should be removed so that a place should not be left until everything 
of value had been extracted. 

In 1859 Forest Hill shipped $100,000 of dust monthly; now$25,000 or $30,000. 
Forest Hill is one of very few places where the pay dirt swells ; but a tunnel 
cut in the blue cement, as well as one cut in the slate, will soon close up here 
by the swelling of the earth if it is not trimmed frequently. 

The Principal Claims. — The principal claims at Forest Hill and in the 
vicinity have been the following : 

The Dardanelles has yielded $2,000,000; the Jenny Lindhas yielded $1,100,000 ; 
the New Jersey has yielded $850,000; the Independence has yielded $450,000; 
the Deidesheimer has yielded $650,000 ; the Fast and Nortwood, the Rough and 
Readv, and the Gore, have each yielded $250,000; the Alabama has yielded 
$150,000. 

It is said that the claims within rifle-shot of the express office have produced 
not less than $10,000,000. No other placer district in the State can show a yield 
equal to this, and yet it is certain that a large proportion of the gold has been 
lost. Tlie gravel or cement extracted was hard, and a considerable proportion 
of it was carried away by the water in lumps rich in gold. Mr, Reamer says 
that if he could have another claim like the New Jersey to work, with a cement 
mill, and with sufiicient means to cut his tunnels and drifts in the most economical 
manner, he could obtain $2,000,000 instead of $850,000 from the same quantity 
of dirt. 

Claims at Todd's Vallet.— Jhe Golden Calf claim, near Todd's valley, 



94 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

below Forest Hill, lias 1,000 feet front on the liillside and a tunnel 1,800 feet 
lonc". It lias never been worked sj'stematicall}', and lias not jiaid. 

The Big Springs claim, with 975 feet of frontage, is being opened, and inean- 
tinie a 10-stamp cement mill built to work it is standing idle. 

Dakdaxells. — The Dardanells Company have 1,000 feet front, commenced 
Avork in 1S53, and have been at work ever since — at first drifting and now 
]>iping. They have taken out 82,000,000 from the blue gravel, which is soft 
there. They have worked out 400 feet along the front, have run tunnels 1,600 
or 1,800 feet, and have drifted out much ground. They can hydraulic away 
about 300 feet along the face of their claim, but beyond that the hill is too 
deep to pay for piping. At one time the company emploA'ed GO or 70 men, now 
they have only four or five, but these with pipes do more tlian twelve times the 
number did drifting. The company own a ditch which is 10 miles long, cost 
S15,000, and supplies 300 inches of water from the 1st December till the 1st of 
June. 

Oko, Geeen Speixg ai^d Uxcle Sam. — The Oro, 1,000 feet, has yielded 
$35,000, but is now in litigation, is not doing anything of note, and never was 
worked with much system. There is a 20-stamp cement mill on it, now idle. 

The Green Spring, 750 feet long, has a bed-rock tunnel reaching to the pay 
dirt, none of which has yet been Avorked. The tunnel Avas commenced in 1854, by 
poor men, Avho Avorked a portion of their time in surface placers or as hired laborers 
to get the means for continuing Avork on this claim. It is probable that the frojit 
of the hill Avill be piped away so as to expose the cement, Avhich can then be 
obtained, at little cost, for crushing. 

The Uncle Sam Company have 100 feet and have done very little. Three 
men are engaged in tunnelling and Avashing. 

Hope axd IIockland. — The Hope claim is 500 feet long on the hillside, lias 
a tunnel 2,000 feet long in bed rock, has a 20-stamp mill, has A'ielded $20,000, 
and has cost $100,000. The mine is noAV being opened Avith the expectation of 
crushing. Tlie mill Avas kept running six Aveeks and paid Avell. 

The Rockland, Baltimore and Boston claim is 2,600 feet long; has a tunnel 
2,300 feet long; has cost $100,000, and has yielded no return as yet. The 
tunnel Avas commenced in 1854, and it has not jet reached the channel. 

Fast and Noetavood. — The Fast and Nortwood claim, 400 feet long, has 
been AVorked through the Baltimore tunnel, and has yielded $250,000. The 
company run their dirt in drifts on four different IcA^els, and must load it four 
different times before they get it to the surface. The claim, in consequence of 
this mode of Avorking, has not been profitable for scA^eral years, but the cement 
is rich, paying $5 to the carload, or about $7 50 per ton, and there is a large 
quantity of it. There is a 10-stamp mill to crush the cement. 

Snydee.— The Snyder claim, 200 feet long, has yielded $250,000. This Avas 
the pioneer claim of the district, the blue lead liaA'ing been discovered here in 
December, 1852, by Mr. Snyder, on a hillside Avhere a slide occuiTcd, exposing 
the rich graA-el to view. A little basin 40 feet in diameter at the slide yielded 
$40,000. When Avork Avas stopped, three years ago, there Avas a tunnel 1,800 
feet long, but as tlie rock SAvells \^ery rapidly it is now entirely closed up. There 
Avas a stretch of 400 feet in the tunnel Avherc the rock SAvelled so rapidly that 
as much rock as Avonld fill the tunnel had to be taken out in each period of 
eight months. The entire yield Avas obtained from the red gravel, and that was 
Avorked Avithout system. 

Independence. — The Independence, noAV nnited with the adjoining Ncav 
Jersey claim, had a tunnel 3,500 feet long, and produced $450,000 before the 
consolidation. It Avas Avorked Avithout system. One spot about 20 feet square 
yielded $10,000. 

Neav jEESEr. — The New Jersey claim is 650 feet front by 4;000 feet deep, 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 95 

under tlie lower part of the town of Forest Hill. Work was commenced in 
August, 1853, on the tunnel, and six years and a, half of hard work passed with 
an expenditure of $60,000 before any return was obtained. When the tunnel 
was in 1,800 feet, an incline was run upwards to the red gravel, which was found 
to be rich, and the $850,000 were taken from an area 500 feet long by 400 
feet wide. The extraction of gravel was continued till April, 1867, when drifts 
were commenced to open new ground. The tunnel was started in 1S53, with the 
confident expectation of reaching pay in a year; but as the work advanced more 
slowly and cost far more, the company had to run in debt, and when they reached 
the pay their debts amounted to $30,000 or more, and some of them had been 
outstanding for more than four years. The creditors numbered 8 or 10, mostly 
merchants, who knew nothing of the Xew Jersey Company save that they 
appeared to be hard-working, sober, honest men, and were trying to develop a 
claim supposed to be valualtlc. There was no long personal acquaintance and 
no sccmity. The debts bore three per cent, interest per month. The most 
dangerous period for the company was after they began to wash. A dishonest 
creditor might then, perhaps, have taken the claim, or at least have caused much 
expense by an attachment suit ; so the fact of the finding of good pay was kept 
as secret as possible until the $30,000 had been taken out, and then all were paid 
off at once. This system of giving credits was general in the mines 15 years 
ago, when the profits charged were very high, when large interest was allowed, 
when many extensive enterprises were undertaken, and when a large number of 
these enterprises met with magnificent success, of which the New Jersey claim 
is a bright example. 

Seven channels have been found in this claim running with the slates about 
northwest and southeast, all parallel to one another, about 25 feet apart, 60 
feet wide, with ridges of rock seven feet high between them. The dip from 
each side of the divide seems to be towards the middle of the hill. There 
is no water for washing from the middle of July till the middle of November, 
and meantime the dirt extracted is thrown into a pit large enough to hold 8,000 
tons, wliere water is thrown on it occasionally so as to soften the cement and 
also to attach the mass together and prevent it from sliding down hill when the 
rains come. In busy times the New Jersey Company employs 60 or 70 men, 
the annual expenses are $60,000 or $70,000, and the profit one-half of the yield. 

The dirt is hauled out in cars four feet and nine inches long, 28 inches 
wide, and 15 inches deep. The wciglit of an ordinary car-load is 1,600 pounds. 
A steady stream of water runs out from the tunnel and is caught in wooden reser- 
voirs, 20 feet square and eight feet deep, to be used for washing. The sluice is 
half a mile long, and the grade is in one part 18 inches and in another 23 inches 
to 12 feet. The steepness of the canon renders it necessary to have a steep 
sluice. Slat riffles made of five strips of board an inch thick, two inches wide 
and six feet long, with strips of the same thickness set between at the ends and 
the middle and bolted through, are used. The top of each strip is shod with 
a strip of iron an inch and a half wide and a quarter of an inch thick, screwed 
on and countersunk. 

Jexxt Lixd. — The Jenny Lind, 450 feet on the hillside, had a tunnel 2,800 
feet long, which is now probably closed up, at least in places, since no work has 
been done for three years. The yield, almost exclusively from the red gravel, 
was $1,100,000, and there is a large amount of ground still unworked. In this 
claim were found many rich quartz boulders. The yield of $1,100,000 was 
obtained b}^ the company from the first washing, leaving to others who rewashed 
the dirt a very large sum in addition. 

Gore, MxVIXE, akd Rough. — The Gore claim, 100 feet wide in front on the 
hillside and twice as wide further back, took out $250,000 from a tunnel 1,200 
feet long. No work has been done for four or five years. Rich quartz boulders 
were found in this claim also. 



96 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Tlie Maine claim, 200 feet front, bad a tunnel 1,200 lect long, and took out 
$250,000. No work lias been done for four years. 

Tlie Itougli and Ready lias 1,200 feet front, liad a tunnel 1,200 feet long, 
took out $250,000, and lias done no work for three years. 

Deidesheimeu axd Othees. — The Deidesheimer has 400 feet front, had a 
tunnel 1,800 feet long, took out $650,000, obtained much from quartz boulders, 
and has done nothing for three years. 

The India Rubber has 250 feet front, had a tunnel 1,200 feet long, produced 
$50,000, and has done no work for three years. 

The Alabama has a frontage of 300 feet, had a tunnel ],200 feet long, took 
$150,000, and has done nothing in the last three years. 

The Eagle has 200 feet front, had a tunnel 800 feet long, expended $40,000 
or $50,000, and took out $15,000. 

The Moss has 900 feet front and a tunnel 1,000 feet long, l)ut found no 
gravel, though it is generally supposed that there is rich gravel in the claim. 
Quartz was found in the tunnel, and a 10-stamp mill was erected to work it; 
but it did not pay. This is the last claim to the eastward in the Forest Hill 
district. 

An unrepealed provision in the miners' regulations of the district requires one 
day's Avork every month from December till Juno to hold the claims, but so 
much Avork has been done that nobody seems to think of forfeiture under the 
letter of the regulations. 

Michigan Bluff. — IMichigan Bluff, seven miles from Forest Hill, on the 
same divide, and 29 miles from Auburn, saw its best days between 1853 and 
1858, when it shipped $100,000 per month ; and now it does not ship more than 
$25,000. The claims were worked first by drifting and then by the hydraulic 
process, and for a time this was one of the principal 113'draulic camps in the State. 

The pay stratum is remarkable on account of containing ninety-five per cent, 
of quartz boulders, pebbles, and sand, and not more than live per cent, of clay. 
Some of the boulders weigh twenty tons, and half the weight of the boulders is 
in those that weigh over a quarter of a ton each. This quartz is very white, 
and immense piles of the boulders — probably hundreds of thousands of tons — 
are piled over the many acres that have been washed off. The deepest claim is 
SO feet deep, and probably all the ground washed off averaged 40 feet, of which 
at least live feet were in boulders that are larger than a man's head, and that 
now lie on the ground. 

The only claim now at work on a large scale at Michigan Bluff is the North 
American, and there is little expectation of extensive work in any other claim 
for some years. There are places that would pay if water could be obtained 
conveniently, and there is much ground known to be rich, but it would not pay 
at present. 

The price of water in 1859 was 37j cents per inch, and it was reduced suc- 
cessively to 30, 25, and 20 cents; in 1865, to 17^, and in 1866, to 15 cents per 
inch. 

The original size of the claims was 100 feet square to the man. 

Tail Sluices. — There are four tail sluices, making a quarter of a mile alto- 
gether, in Stickness's Gulch, below Michigan Bluff. The sluice is four feet 
wide, three deep, with vertical sides, and a grade of 14 inches to the sluice- 
box. Part is paved with wooden blocks and part with boulders. From 1860 
to 1863 the tail sluice paid very well, as four or five companies tailed into it, 
but now there is only one. 

NoKTn AiiERiCAX. — The North American claim, as originally located, was 
600 feet long and 400 feet wide ; but much additional ground has been pur- 
chased, and half of the original area is worked out. Sluicing and drifting were 
commenced in 1854 in front, ^vhere the claim was shallow; and in 1858, when 
deeper gravel had been reached, piping began. In 1860 a bed-rock tunnel 



WEST OF THE EOCKY JIOUNTAINS. 97 

1,400 feet long — in one place 150 feet under the surface of the rim rock — con- 
structed at a cost of S10,000, was first used for washing. The grade is 13 
inches to 12 feet, but eight inches is considered preferable. The sluice in the tun- 
nel is two feet wide at the bottom, 32 inches wide at the top, and two feet deep. 
The flaring are better than vertical sides for the passage of large boulders two 
or three feet through, though anything over 150 pounds injures the sluice. 
Nearly all the gold is caught within 200 feet at the head of the sluice, where 
the bottom is covered with slat frames six feet long and one foot Avide, with 
four frames to one sluice-box. The slats are boards an inch thick, "shod" 
with iron straps three-quarters of an inch thick and an inch and a half wide. 
All the sluice-boxes below the first 200 feet are paved with fir blocks eight inches 
thick. The first hundred feet of the sluice are cleaned up every evening, and 
the second hundred twice a week. This cleaning up keeps the riffles in good 
order, and requires half or three-quarters of an hour. There are 2,300 feet of 
11-inch pipe and 150 of 7-inch pipe in use in the claim. The total yield has 
been $300,000. 

NiTRO-GLTCEEiNE. — The number of men now employed is 15; last year it 
it was 28. One of the chief difficulties in this claim is the removal of the 
of the stratum of pipe-clay which rests on the pay gravel and must be carried 
off in the sluice. It is too hard to be piped away, so it must be blasted into 
small pieces. Previous to this year powder was used, but now Mr. Swenson, 
one of the partners of this claim, and the pioneer manufacturer of nitro-glycerine 
in California, supplies that fluid, which is so much better than gunpowder that 
15 men do more in 1867 than 28 did in 1SG6. The nitro-glycerine shatters 
the pipe-clay into a multitude of little pieces, whereas powder broke it into a 
few large ones ; so, after a powder blast, the miners had to reduce the large 
lumps with gads, for which there is now little use. It costs about $2 per pound, 
and is preferred by the miners after they once become accustomed to it. No 
accident has happened with it on this claim, although sometimes two or three 
dozen blasts are set off in a day. The smoke from it disappears sooner than 
that from powder, but it is more injmious. 

About 400 inches of water are used in the North American claim for four or 
five days in the week. 

Bath District. — The following claims are in the Bath district, adjoining the 
Forest Hill district : 

In the San Francisco claim no work has been done for a long time. 

The Oro claim never j'ielded much, and is doing nothing now. 

The Hip claim, 450 feet front, has a tunnel 450 feet long in the bed rock. 
From this tunnel a shaft has been raised to the Paragon sheet, which was worked 
from 1852 to 1858. The company are preparing to pipe away the front of the 
claim, and they intend to erect a mill next j^ear. Work is continued meantime' 
on the tunnel. 

The Golden Gate Company have ISO feet front, and own half of a joint tunne'l, 
400 feet long, on the boundary line of the Hough Gold Company. They aio 
are now Avorking the blue gravel, and getting $5 per ton from it, but they inten 1 
to work the Paragon sheet. They have a five-stamp mill, di-iven by a hurdy- 
gurdy wheel. 

The Rough Gold Company have a frontage of only a few feet, but the claim 
grows wider as it goes back into the hill, and 400 feet back it is 200 feet wide.. 
There is a tunnel 1,800 feet long, 150 feet under the Paragon sh.oet, Avhich is 
now being worked; but the tunnel was located for the puq^ose of working the 
blue gravel. There is a 10-stamp mill, Avhich Avas erected in 186G, and is noAV 
running steadily. 

Pai!AG02^^.— The Paragon claim has a front of 250 feet, extends a mile and a 
half through the hill, and is 400 feet Avide at the back. The pay stratum noAV 
7 



98 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

worked is a deposit of rusty gray gravel, four feet deep, resting on the blue gravel 
100 feet deep, and covered by volcanic sand. The blue gravel immediately on 
the bed rock, as well as for 100 feet above, contains some gold, but not enough 
to ofter much profit. The gray gravel contains $10 per ton, the gold being 
coarse, some of the pieces weighing two or three ounces, and others containing 
quartz attached. 

Work was commenced on the claim in 1852, and the gravel was sluiced for 
10 years. It was so tough, however, that it had to be washed repeatedly, and 
after all much of the clay escaped undissolved. At the first washing the yield 
was about $1 per ton, and the second, third, and fourth washings, made at 
intervals of a yeai-, yielded each $2 per ton, and $1 per ton for the fifth, sixth, 
and seventh washings. Freezing and thawing slaked the cement more rapidly 
than did sun or rain. In 1864 a 20-stamp mill was built, and then the claim first 
began to prove its high value. The yield of the claim was $100,000 in 1866, 
half of it profit. The yield per ton in the mill is no more than it was in the 
sluice, but the dirt is now not so rich as it was before. 

The gray gravel, or "sheet," as it is called, has all been taken out for 1,600 
feet front. The tunnel is in the middle of the claim in the blue gravel, 20 
feet below the sheet. The pay dirt is breasted out on drifts,, which run entirely 
across the claim, so that there are 400 feet of breast for the men to work at. 
The gravel becomes softer when exposed to the air, so the large breast gives 
the benefit of exposure, as well as of abundant room. At intervals of 30 feet 
a chute is made from the sheet down to the tunnel, for the purpose of throwing 
down the gravel ; few timbers are used, and the roof falls down upon the blue 
gravel, close upon the heels of the miners. Two men are constantly employed 
repairing the tunnel, which would close up in a month, if neglected. The l>luo 
gravel swells very much in one stretch of 150 feet. 

There is enough dirt in sight for four years' work. All the dirt is picked 
down. 

The mill crushes 200 tons a week, and the expenses are $1,000 per week. 
Fifty men are employed : 32 miners; four carmen in the tunnel; two carmen out- 
side ; two tunnel menders ; four feeders, and six others in and about the mill. 
Two men feed the 20 stamps, and two others pick out the large stones from the 
gravel. 

The stamps weigh 700 pounds, have 75 drops per minute, and 13 inches fall. 

The screen is punched with holes a sixteenth of an inch in diameter, but tliey 
soon wear larger. 

Two tons of gravel are fed per hour to each five-stamp battmy, and three inches 
of water run steadily into each mortar. 

A quarter of a pound of quicksilver is put in every morning, and as much more 
every evening into each battery. 

A flask of quicksilver is bought once in four months, implying the loss of 75 
pounds in that period, or half a pound per day on an average, or one-quarter of all 
that is used. The retorting is done carefully, so the loss is in the sluice. 

Below the mortars are Jenny Liml ritHes, and below those hurdy-gurdy riffles. 
It is said the claim was sold in August, 1867, for $150,000. 

Other Bath Claims. — The Greek claim, 160 feet front, has lately been 
bought by the Paragon Company for $9,650. This claim paid well in front, but 
was not worked well; the tunnel closed up; the owners quarrelled, and then they 
sold out. 

The New York claim, 200 feet front, has a sheet like that of the Paragon, 
save that it is on the bed rock. A tunnel was cut 1,800 feet long in the bed 
rock, at an expense of $15,000, but bad air proved very troublesome; the work 
was stopped before pay was reached ; the tunnel closed up, and nothing has 
been done for three years. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 99 

The Sebastopol Company lias a front of 1,000 feet, ci.it a tunnel SOO feet in 
veiy hard rock, found no pay, and stopped work in 1SG6, after spending $20,008. 

Damascus. — Damascus, twelve miles northeast of Forrest Hill, on the same 
divide, but on its north side, has the same slate bed rock, and a similar bed of 
blue cement, though there is no overlying red gravel. 

The Damascus Company has a claim 500 feet in front, and 3,000 long, running 
into the hill. The blue cement is four feet thick, lies immediately on a soft 
talcose slate-bed rock, soft enough to pick, and is covered by 600 feet of volcanic 
sand ; at least it is supposed to l)e sand, though no careful examination has been 
made of it. The richest part of the cement is within 15 inclK?s of the bottom, 
but the largest nuggets of gold are found in the bed rock. The gold is mostly 
coarse, in long narrow pieces, and those found in the bed rock, like those found 
at Forest Hill, are frequently quite black. 

Tlie claim is opened by a tunnel, 450 feet long, of which distance 200 feet 
were passed before the rim had been pierced. 

The tunnel runs nearly south-southeast, about the middle of the claim, and 
apparently in the middle of what was the channel of the ancient stream. The 
present supply of cement is obtained northeast of the tunnel, and the breast is 
about 200 feet, extending nearly half way across the claim. A pillar 20 feet 
wide is left standing alongside of the tunnel to protect it. A rail track is kept 
along the face of the breast, and after 20 feet have been breasted out, the track 
is relaid for convenience of loading. The tunnel is eight feet below the bed of 
the channel, and the load in the breast car is dumped into the tunnel car. 

There are many large quartz boulders, some of them weighing a ton each in 
the cement, and these are thrown back to support the proof, which never cracks. 
A post six feet high, with a cap 30 inches long, is set up in each square of 30 feet 
at the breast, but so far there has been no trouble with the roof. 

There is a 10-stamp mill, driven by steam, but it runs only in day-time for lack 
of water to run long(M". The company intend to make a ditch, so that the mill 
can run day and night. Twenty-five tons of cement are crushed every day, and 
the average yield so far has been $3 35 to a car load of 1,700 pounds, or $3 94 
per ton. The bed rock, of which 15 inches are dug up, is not crushed, but is 
simply washed in the sluice. 

The stamps weigh 650 pounds each, make 70 to 80 blows per minute, and 
drop from 9 to 11 inches. When the shoes and dies are new the drop is 9 inches, 
and the number of blows 80^ and when the drop is 11 inches the number of 
blows is 70. 

Three inches of water are turned into each mortar, and three inches more are 
tunied into the sluice below. 

The cost of the mill, including the engine, was $12,000, and the expenses daily 
are the following, viz : a cord of wood, $3 ; an engineer, $4 ; a blacksmith, $3 ; 
a feeder, $3 ; six miners, $3 each. Five men breast out five tons per day to a 
man, and one camian takes out the cement. The engine is of forty-horse power. 
Two candles are burned per day to the breaster. 

The mill was built before the mine was properly opened. 

The bed rock does not swell. The bed rock is full of vertical quartz-veins 
averaging a few inches in thickness, running south-southwest and north-north- 
east. These seams appear to form in places half of the bed rock; some of them 
are a foot thick, and some as thin as paper. The same quartz veins, but more 
strongly marked, are found in a second tunnel, which is 65 feet lower and 350 
feet long. 

MouNTArN" Gate. — The Mountain Gate claim, adjoining the Damascus on 
the west, has 2,000 feet front, and the tunnel runs in 4,000 ieet. The bed rock 
is 35 Ieet* higher than in the Damascus, it swells, there is less quartz in the 
bed rock, and some of the gravel is softer; but otherwise there is much sim- 
ilarity in the two claims. The tunnel was started 40 feet below the top of the 



100 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

rim rock, wliicli was passed in t')00 feet, and then the tunnel was extended 3,500 
feet, running nearly level, and the company are now troubled so much by water 
that they have started another tunnel 65 feet deeper, and it is in 1,500 feet. The 
tunnel is about 200 feet from the Damascus line, and they have worked 200 feet 
on each side of the tunnel. They breast out on the same system as that used in 
the Damascus. 

Tliey have no mill, and when they come to cement too hard to wash, they 
usually leave it behind and virtually throw it away. Some of it, however, is so 
rich that it pays to crush with a hand mortar. The softer cement is washed tlu'ee 
or four times, at intervals of six or eight months. Three-fourths of the total 
yield is obtained at the first washing, and three-fourths of the further yield at the 
second. The sluice is 200 feet long. 

There are 16 partners, all of whom work in the claim, and they seldom hire 
anybody. Humor says the present yield is S12 per day to the man. though 
the work done is much less than the amount required from hired men. Tlie 
claim has been worked for 12 years, and has produced altogether S370,000. They 
have enough water from their own claim to wash all their dirt. 

The bed rock rises 150 feet near the western line of the IMountain Gate, and 
at the eastern line of the Damascus, so those two companies take the whole chan- 
nel there. 

Iowa Hill. — At Iowa Hill the blue cement lies on the bed rock, or lay before 
it was mined out, 12 or IS feet deep. The cement was so soft that it could be 
picked out, and so hard that it could be washed once a year for seven years with- 
out being entirely disintegrated. Much of the cement was so rich that it was 
pounded u}) in a mortar weighing 250 pounds, and measuring 16 inches across 
the bowl. The pestle weighed 70 or 80 pounds, was attached to a spring pole, 
and was worked by two men, who could thus pound up two tons or two tons and 
a half in a day. 

Over the blue cement was a layer of sand from one foot to four feet in thick- 
ness. Upon that rested a stratum of rich brownish gravel six or eight feet 
thick. Over this came 140 feet of poor browai gravel, with layers of sand in it, 
and iisually there was a very rich stratum of gravel just over the sand. Above 
the brown gravel was loam 20 or 30 feet deep. 

A few claims on this Blue lead were extremely profitable. The Jamison, the 
pioneer claim, yielded $500,000 ; the North Star, $400,000 ; the Sailor Union, 
$300,000; the Iowa Hill, $250,000; and the Dutch, $250,000; but three dozen 
large tunnels were run and not one4hird of them paid expenses. If the loss 
were l)alanced against the profit, the Iowa Hill district would not show much 
net gain. 

Tlie town stands on the summit of a ridge 200 feet high and a furlong wide, 
and the blue cement of the channel which passes under the town has all been 
drifted out, and the hydraulic pipe is now at work on both sides, so that the 
town site will itself be Avashed away in a few years. 

The richest spot ever found in the neighborhood of Iowa Hill was in the brown 
gravel, i'rom which two men took ovit $30,000 in one day. 

East of Iowa Hill is Indian canon, reputed to have been the richest canon 
ever found in California. 

Wisconsin Hill. — Wisconsin Hill is on the same divide with Iowa Hill, but 
is two miles distant in a southeast direction, and the two places are separated by 
a ravine. The channel is the same as at Iowa Plill, but not so rich. 

The Oriental cement mill at Wisconsin Hill was built in 1866 and has 20 
stamps, but it does not pay, as the cement yields only 80 cents to the ton. 
Fortunately, the surface has been stripped, so the cement lies bare and can be 
obtained at little expense. 

Roach Hill. — Iloach Hill, one mile east of Iowa Hill, has had some good 
claims. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 101 

]\Ionona Flat, half a mile east of Roacli Hill, has also paid well in places. . 
The channel at these two camps runs with the divide. 

Pleasant Flat, a quarter of a mile further up, has a channel running across. 

MoKXiXG Star. — Three hundred yards south of Iowa Hill, beyond Indian 
canon, is Picayune divide, through which runs the Blue lead, on which is located 
the Morning Star claim, which has 1,200 feet front, and extends 4,000 feet to 
the middle of the ridge. The channel here appears to have been 150 or 200 feet 
wide. The Morning Star tunnel was commenced in 1856, and no pay of any 
note was obtained until 1865, by which time a distance of 1,800 feet had been 
run and $45,000 had been expended. After reaching the cement it Avas found 
that the tunnel was 30 feet too high, and now the dirt has to be hoisted and the 
water pumped b}^ hand to the level of the tunnel. The bed rock swells, and 
sometimes the track is raised six inches in a night. The cement varies in thick- 
ness from six inches to six feet, and yields $3 per ton. The mill has six stamps, 
goes by steam, and crushes 40 tons in 24 hom's. From June to December, there 
is but half the needed supply of Avater, and the mill runs onl}" in the day-time. 
Twenty -four men are employed. 

BiED Flat axd Lebaxox. — Three-quarters of a mile above the Morning 
Star claim, on the Picayune divide, the Iowa Hill and Bird Flat Company have 
been running a tunnel since 1854, have gone in 1,100 feet, have spent 850,000, 
and have obtained no return as j'et. 

The Lebanon Company, at Prospect Hill, have a claim which adjoins the Slorn- 
ing Star on the back. They have been at work 13 years, spent $100,000, and 
cut a tunnel 1,500 feet, and in 1866 they struck into pay and erected a 10-stamp 
mill, which is driven by a hurdy-gurdy wheel. This tunnel is not low enough. 

Gold Iluis^. — On the Railroad divide, between Bear river and the North fork 
of the American, the Blue lead appears at Dutch Flat, Gold Run, and Indiana 
Hill. The width of the lead here is nearly half a mile, and there are 200 or 
300 feet of pay gravel, with no overlying barren stratum. Squires's canon, 
which empties into Bear river, separates Dutch Flat fi'om Gold Run. The 
latter did not obtain a large supply of water until lately, and therefore its best 
claims have not been exhausted, and it is the most prosperous hydraulic camp in 
California. Nine thousand inches of water are used here, requii'ing a payment 
of $1,000 a day or more in gold. The gravel is peculiarly soft and there is great 
depth, so that high power is obtained, and more dirt is washed in proportion to 
the quantity of water used than in any other large hj^draulic district. 

Gkayel at Gold Ru:^. — The bed of auriferous gravel at. Gold Run is about 
350 feet deep, of Avhich only about 150 feet have been Avorked so far. The 
sluices are therefore 200 feet aboA-e the bed rock. A shaft Avas sunk 185 feet 
deep in Potato raAane to the bed rock, and the bottom of that ravine is below 
the level of most of the sluices. It is to be presumed that the bed rock in that 
shaft is no loAver than elscAvhere in the channel. Pay gravel Avas found all the 
AA'ay doAvn, and it was soft imtil Avithin six or eight feet of the bottom. This 
vast bed of gra\"el two miles long, half a mile AA'ide, and 250 feet deep, cannot 
be Avashed aAvay for many years. 

Outlet. — Although the cauon of the north fork of the American rn-er is at 
least 2,500 feet deep, yet it is tAvo miles distant from Gold Run, and the tailings 
must run into Cauon creek, Avhich near the claims is only 150 or 175 feetbeloAV 
their levels. Several claims have been compelled to stop Avork because^ they no 
longer have any outlet. 

An outlet must be obtained 200 feet deeper than Caiion creek, and it must 
be had Avithout waiting for the gradual Avashing out of the Blue Lead channel 
from the cauon of the north fork of the American river. That outlet A\dll be 
through a tunnel about a mile long, and from this tunnel shafts will nm up to 
the various claims. It Avill be veiy costly, but on the other hand it will yield 
an immense retm-n. 



102 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Facilities tor Piping. — There is no prettier hydraulic washing- than that 
at Gold Ptnn. The gravel is very soft, it is deep, water is abundant with a high 
pressure, the claims are large, and there is no superincumbent layer of barren 
matter. In proportion to tlie amount of work done fewer men are employed at 
Gold Run than at any other camp in the State. At Smartsville much time is 
spent in blasting ; at La Porte, in puddling ; at Dutch Flat, in attending to 
large boulders ; but none here. Two men are sufficient here to do all the work 
in a claim that uses 300 inches of water. As an inch of water is equal to a sup- 
ply of 145 pounds per minute, or 8,700 pounds per hour, or 102,900 pounds (51 
tons) in 12 hours, so it follows that 300 inches supplies 15,000 tons in a 
day ; and as the water carries off at least one-tenth — the ordinary calculation is 
one-fifth — of its bulk of earthy matter, it follows that two men wash 1,500 tons 
at Gold Run in 12 hours, or 750 tons each. It is a common saying at Dutch 
Flat that there three pipes are required to break down as much gravel as the 
water of one can wash away, but in Gold Run one pipe will break down as nu;ch 
as three can wash away. This is an exaggeration when stated as a general prin- 
ciple, though it has been true in some instances. 

Canon Ceeek. — Caiion creek nnis from Gold Run along the eastern border of 
the Blue Lead 3 J miles down to Indiana Hill, where it empties into the north fork 
of the American river. This creek furnishes the outlet for many of the claims. 
The original bed of the creek was in general 350 feet below the surface of the 
lead, or " gravel range," as it is also called, but the bed has been in some places 
filled up as much as fifty feet with gravel. 

Water. — Piping was commenced at Indiana Hill on a small scale in 1857, 
with 400 inches, supplied in the late winter and early spring by a ditch irom 
Canon creek. Four years later the Dutch Flat ditch brought to Gold Ran 800 
inches, which ran for six or seven months, and have since been doubled ; and 
the Bear River ditch brought in 800 more ; and in 18G4 the South Yuba ditch 
brought in 2,500 inches. The demand for water has always exceeded the sup- 
plv, and as the supply increased so did the amount of work and of production. 
Gold Run produced $] 50,000, in 1865; $300,000 in 1866; and the yield for 
1867 is estimated at 8500,000. The customary price for Avater is 12^ cents per 
inch for 12 hours, and 20 cents for 24 hours. 

Squire's Canon Claims. — On the southern lode of Squire's canon, in the 
Gold Run district, are the following claims, commencing at the east : 

Frost & Co. began Avork in 1865, wash through an open cut, use 300 inches 
of water, and usually run in day-time only, though they have run night and 
day at times. 

\V. H. Kinder began work in 1866, uses 300 inches of Avater, Avashes through 
an open cut, and runs in day-time onl3^ 

WentAvorth & Co. began work in 1866, use 300 inches of Avater night and day, 
and Avash through an open cut. 

A. Bell & Co. are running a bed rock tunnel, and have not commenced 
Avashing. 

"Wolcott & Co. began Avork in 1867, and the claim Avas sold in June for 
$3,500. They use 300 inches of Avater in daylight only, and AA'ash through an 
open cut, but intend to cut a tunnel. 

The Bailey claim, consisting of 21 claims, each 100 by 200 feet, has not been 
opencd,^nd no Avork is being doite. 

Crader & Co. began in 1867, and use 175 inches day and night. 

Canon Creek Claim. — The claims Avhich have their outlet into Cafion creek 
are the following, near the head of Squire's canon : 

Tlie Rock Company opened their claim in 1866, and used 250 inches of water, 
running day and night. They are not piping noAV, but are preparing to lay a 
long pipe so as to have a heaA'y pressure for 1868. 

Hughes & Co. opened their claim in 1866, but are not at AAork noAA'. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 103 

A. S. Benton opened Ms claim in 1S67, and uses 300 iuclies of water by day- 
light only. 

The Harkness claim has been worked by sluice and pipe for 10 years, is now 
taking 650 inches of water day and night, and draining through an open cut. 

Behind Harkness is the claim of Ilalsey & Co., 900 feet long by 500 wide, 
which cannot be worked until an outlet is obtained through thcdaim in front. 
A fourth interest was offered for sale in last Febniary for $2,000, but no buyer 
aj^peared. It would have found ready sale if there had been an outlet. 

Next to Harkness, on Canon creek, is the claim of Coding & Co., who have 
worked off the top of their claim as low as they can go, and are now waiting for 
a deeper outlet. 

The claim of Benton & Co., adjoining, is in a similar condition. 

The Bay State claim was opened in 1857, and has been worked steadily since 
whenever water could be had. In 186G it used 750 inches day and night ; this 
je&i' it used 350. The profit never has been large, though the gross vield 
has been $150,000, and the yield for 1866 -§37,000. 

The claim of A. Beel is in the same condition as that of Coding. 

GoosLiXG Ravixe Claims. — Goosling & Co. have been at work since 1854. 
A ravine rans down through the middle of the claim, and the}' are piping on 
each side, using 300 inches day and night on one side, and 300 inches in day- 
time only on the other, Goosling ravine is in this claim. 

Prindle & Co. opened their claim in 1864, and used 275 inches of water day 
and night. Work has been closed for this season because the pipe has advanced 
to within 50 feet of a ditch, the proprietors of which have warned the claim 
owners that they will be held responsible for any damage to the ditch. Fom* 
ditches cross this claim. The outlet is through Coosling's ravine. 

The Uncle Abe claim, behind Goosling, is iiTegular in shape, but is about 
1,000 feet long by 850 feet wide. It was opened in 1867, and in April, May, 
and June, yielded $12,000. It Avas sold in May for $6,000. The consumption 
of water is 275 inches day and night. 

Lower Canox Creek Claims. — The claim of Winters & Co. has been worked 
three years, and is in the same condition as Coding's. 

The Bay State No. 2 is unopened. An offer of $3,000 for the claim was 
refused. 

The Hall claim was worked for two years, but is idle this season for want of 
an outlet. 

The claim of Taylor, Moore & Co. is about 1,000 feet square, was worked on 
a small scale from 1853 till 1865, and for the last two years has been piping on 
a large scale. It was sold this year for $11,000. The yield in " a run of 22 
days," as a ran of 11 days day and night is termed, is usually between $4,000 
and $5,000. 

The Church claim was opened in 1860, and the yield in 1866 was $27,000. 
Three-fifths of the claim were sold in 1865 for $7,000. Of water, 275 inches 
are used in the day-time only. 

The Golden Gate claim began work in 1858, uses 300 inches of water in day- 
time only, pays well, and is the last claim that tails immediately into Canon 
creek. 

Gold Run CanO^J". — The Gold Run claim began work in 1859, uses 300 
inches of water in the day-time only, has paid well, and tails into Golden Run 
caiion, which is on the southern side of the claim. An offer of $10,000 for the 
claim has been refused. 

The Fitzpatrick claim, fronting on Gold Run caiion, has lately been sold fcr 
$2,100, and is now preparing to work with 300 inches of water. 

On the south side of Gold Run caiion, and opposite to the Fitzpatrick claim, 
is the Sheldon claim, owned by the Dutch Flat Water Company. It has been 
worked several years, but is idle now. 



104 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The Iluyek and Hubbard claim, fronting on Gold Run canon, lias a sluice 
tunnel, but is waiting- for clieapor water, and doing notliing. 

The Home Ticket has been worked four years, and uses 350 inches in day- 
time. The gross yield in May and June, 1867, Avas about $100 per day. 

The Newark was opened in 18G3, uses 300 inches in the day-time, and yielded 
about $75 gross in June, 1867. 

Potato Ravine. — The folloAving companies tail into Potato ravine, a tribu- 
tary of Caiion creek : ' 

Baldwin and Bailey have been at work three years, using 275 inches of water 
in the day-time, and ol)taining about $70 gross per day. 

The Harris claim is large and unopened. 

The Fitzpatrick claim yields about $75 gross per day, was opened in 1866, 
and consumes 330 inches of water in day-time. 

The Cedar Company have 900 by 800 feet, began work in 1861, run 300 
inches day and night, and obtain about $230 in 24 hours. The yield in 1866 
was $35,000, one-half of it profit. 

Stewart and Kinder have 500 feet square, fronting on both Canon creek and 
Potato ravine, but are not at work. Along Canon creek there is a rim rock, so 
they will tail into Potato ravine. They refused an offer of $1,500 for the claim. 

The Judd and Griffin claim, 1,000 feet square, has been worked since 1854, 
and was sold in 1866 for $3,500. The yield is about $75 per day, with 270 
inches running twelve hours out of the twenty-four. To get drainage an open 
cut was made 600 or 700 feet long in the rim-rock, and in one place 40 feet deep. 

Huyck and Judd have one of the most profitable claims of the district on the 
eastern side of Indiana Hill canon, which empties into the north fork of the 
American river. They have been at work since 1854, use 275 inches of water 
in the day-time, and cleared $7,000 in 1866. 

The Idoskin claim adjoining is open, but is not Avorked. 

Indiaxa Cemext Mill. — Mallory, Gaylord & Co. are working Avith an eight- 
stamp cement mill, driven by a hurdygurdy wheel. Their claim is the only one 
in the district in Avhich the bed-rock has been reached. Their mode of getting 
out dirt is to cut a tunnel 60 or 70 feet on the bed-rock, let off a blast of 200 
kegs of powder, sluice off the top dirt, and run the cement through the mill. 

Indiana Canon Claims. — Tlie following claims tail into Indiana Hill canon. 

The Hawkins claim was opened this year, uses 350 inches night and day, and 
yields $200 in 24 hours. 

The Brink claim was opened in 1864, but is not worked now on account of 
disturbance of the telegraph or flume from which the pipe is fed. The yield was 
about $75 per day, and the quantity of water 30 inches. Work will be resumed 
next year. 

Stewart and Prindle opened their claim in 1867, use 200 inches day and night, 
and take out about $100 per day. 

Moody's Tail Sluice. — In Canon creek Moody & Co. have a double tail 
sluice 2,000 feet long, consisting of two flumes, each eight feet wide and about 
four feet deep. This sluice cost $25,000. The lower part was carried away in 
1862, and the upper part was buried and had to be replaced. The yield was 
$10,000 in 1865, $7,000 in 1866, and $3,000 in the first half of 1867. An offer 
of $11,000 for a third interest Avas refused. The estimated receipts for 1867 are 
$10,000. Most of the cleaning up is done in September and October, Avhen 
there is not much Avatcr for piping. 

Kindee's Tail Sluice. — Kinder and White have a tail sluice in Canon creek 
and claim the creek for a mile and a half below Moody & Co. In tho uppei 
part of their claim they have two sluices eight feet wide and 700 feet long. Half 
of the sluice Avas sold in 1865 for $3,000, but since then it has become more 
valuable. The grade is three inches to 12 feet. This sluice was carried aAvay 
in 1865. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 105 

The following companies tail into the two tail sluices in Canon creek : 



Companies. Inches. 

Rock Creek 275 

Benton & Co 350 

Harkness 600 

Bay State 350 

Bell 300 

German GOO 

Uncle Abe 275 

Taylor & Co 400 

Church 275 



Companies. Inches. 

Golden Gate '.WO 

Home Ticket 350 

Newark 300 

Bailey & Brother 275 

Fitzpatrick 300 

Brogan 300 

Total 5,250 



The Gold Run tail sluice, in Gold Eun canon, is 1,500 feet long-, six feet 
Avide, and yields $6,000 or S7,000 a year. It tails into Canon creek. 

Goosling & Co. have a tail sluice 3,000 feet long in Goosling ravine, and four 
companies tail into it. Two tail sluices are buried 20 or 30 feet deep in this mine. 

Huyck and Judd have 1,000 feet of tail sluice in Indiana Hill canon. 

IiosKI^'s Tail Sluice. — The Iloskins tail sluice is in Indiana Hill ravine, 
which is so steep that the sluice is in short sections, the longest 24 feet, and 
between the sections tlio water pitches. down over steep rocks. There are in all 
fifteen boxes of main tail sluice, six or eight feet wide and two or two and a half 
feet deep, with a grade of eight inches to 12 feet. 

Besides the main sluice boxes there are a number of undercuiTcnt boxes, from 
six to nine feet wide, 14 inches deep, with a grade of 12 or 13 inches to 12 feet. 
Not more than one-fifth of the matter in the main sluice gets into the undercur- 
rent, passing through a cast grating of white iron, with openings an inch wide, 
eight inches and a half long, separated by bars an inch and a half thick on top. 
There arc usually from 600 to 1,200 inches of water running in the main sluice 
and 120 in the undercurrent, which latter catches three times as much gold as 
the former, because the current is slower and shallower. 

There are second undercuiTcnts, or secondaries, as they are usually called. 
Their grade is 14 or 15 inches to the box, their Avidth 30 inches, and their depth 
12. They take one-fifteenth of the Avater of the undercurrent, and catch one- 
eighth as much gold. They are especially serviceable for catching quicksih^er. 
The spaces in the grating are fiA'c inches long and three-eighths of an inch wide. 
There arc three boxes of 12 feet to each undercurrent, and tAvo to each second- 
ary. The undercurrents ahvays pay Avhere the gold is fine, and the secondaries 
are especially serviceable in steep canons. 

Dutch Flat. — Dutch Flat, on the north side of the divide between Bear 
riA^er and the north fork of the American riA^er, and Avithin half a mile of the 
line of the Central Pacific railroad, has for 12 years been one of the leading 
hydraulic camps of the State. It is pleasantly situated, and is one of the most 
prosperous tOAvnsin the mines, although the monthly gold yield was thrice as great 
in 1S58 as it is now. There are many comfortable homes, most of the people 
consider themselA'cs permanent residents, and there is a steady increase in the 
number of families. Dutch Flat, probably alone of all the mining toAvns, has 
never been burned doAvn, and only one house has been burned. The shipment 
of gold in January, 1867, Avas " $31,600 ; in February, $33,000; in March, 
$43^000 ; in April, $74,000 ; in May, $66,000 ; and in June, $60,000. These 
shipments included much from Gold Run. 

Most of the soft graA^d that covered the Blue lead, and that could be Avashed 
down readily with the pipe, has been washed awaj^, and the blue cement, Avhich 
is too hard for the pipe, and perhaps not rich enough for the stamp, has been 
reached ; and most of the claims are noAV lying idle in the hope that some other 
mode Avill be devised of Avorking them. 

The principal claims at Dutch Flat, commencing on Bear river, at the north- 
eastern corner of the district, are the folloAving : 

Phcenix and Ameeican. — The Phoenix, 900 feet long by 300 Avide, Avas 



106 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

opened in 1857 and was worked until 1865, witli an average yield of $150 and 
an expense of $60 per day. All the soft gravel lias been washed and the hard 
cement remains. The depth to the bed rocli is not known. 

The American, 900 feet long by 400 feet wide, was opened in 1857, and was 
worked for six years as a hydraulic claim, yielding $150 per day. It will not 
pay now for piping, and Chinamen are sluicing in it. 

Buckeye. — The I)ucke3'e was opened as a sluicing claim in 1854, and it was 
piped from 1857 till 1807, and may be regarded as worked out for the h3"draulic 
process. It has used 250 inches of water and employed from four to six men. 
An incline was sunk 250 feet below the level of the present workings to the 
bed rock, and the cement taken out in going down yielded $8 to the car-load, 
and not more than one-third of the gold was washed out. If this statement be 
correct, and if the cement found in the incline was a fair average of all in the 
claim, the Buckeye is an extremely valuable piece of property. 

Dutch Flat and Queex City. — The Dutch Flat, 1,800 by 900 feet, was 
opened in 1857, and is still at work Avith 12 men. The yield is from $200 to 
$400 per day. The soft gravel will last another season. The company com- 
menced work in 1854, cutting a tunnel for drainage, but after going 450 feet and 
spending $46,000 on it, they gave it up. Some of the rock was so hard thaf 
they paid $85 50 per lineal foot. 

The Queen City, 900 by 250 feet, began piping in 1858, and will exhaust its 
soft gravel this year. Four men are employed; the yield is $130 to $150 per 
da}^, and 200 or 250 inches of water are used. 

Bear Ritee ais'D Teaff. — The Bear River claim, 900 by 400, was opened 
in 1856, and will be exhausted, so far as the soft gravel is concerned, this year. 
Four men are employed, 250 inches of water are used, and the yield is $150 per 
day. 

Teaff's claim, 900 by 310 feet on one side of the hill, and 1,500 by 900 on 
ihe other side, was opened as a pipe claim in 1855, and the soft gravel will be 
worked out next year. From 1857 to 1860 125 inches of water were used, and 
the average yield was $100 per day. About 80 feet have been washed away 
from nearly the entire area of the claim. The amount of water used is 250 inches, 
at an expense of $30 per day ; four men are employed at $3 each ; the total 
expenses are about $50 per day, and the yield $150. The head of water for 
piping is 120 feet. 

From Boston to Yankee. — The Boston claim, 900 by 450 feet, was opened 
as a hydraulic claim in 1855, and the soft gravel will all be washed away this 
year. Four men arc employed, 250 inches of water are purchased, and the yield 
IS $150 per day. 

The Gray Eagle, 900 b}- 300 feet, was piped from 1858 till this year, and 
now the soft gravel has all disappeared. The yield was $150 per day, and 250 
or 300 inches were used per day. 

The North Star was worked as a drift claim for a long time, and then piped. 
The soft gravel is all gone, and the claim is lying idle. 

The Union is working, and paying good wages to two men. 

The Yankee, at the junction of Dutch Flat ravine with Bear river, has worked 
off nearly all the soft gravel. In 1858 and 1859 it was worked as a drift claim 
by 16 men, and it yielded 250 ounces (about $4,500) per month. 

Drift Claims. — The Blue Cut struck pay in 1856 as a drift claim, and paid 
very high for a time, and now pays $400 per month. Four men are employed, 
and the claim is still worked by drifting. 

The Potosi, a diift claim, pays 200 ounces per month to 12 men drifting day 
and night. 

The Whynot Company is worked as a drifting claim ; yield not ascertained. 

The Badger has 22 feet of drifting dirt, and has been very rich, but is working 
now on a small scale. In four years it paid $192,000 of dividends 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 107 

Mill Claims. — The Ohio claim has a four-stamp cement mill, which started 
this year and pays well. The cement is hauled out with a mule. The soft 
gravel has been sluiced off from the top. 

The erection of a mill has been commenced on the Baker claim. 

The Gemian Company intend to build a mill. 

Other Claims. — The Deep Shaft claim is the property of the Water Com- 
pany, and is worked by the hydraulic process, but the supply of water is in-egu- 
lar. When there are 250 inches of water the yield is about $150 per day. 

The Iowa claim uses 250 inches, and paj's $150 per day, but did not pay more 
than 6100 previous to 1SG6. The soft gravel will be worked out next year. 

The North Star yielded 8150 per day for four or five years, but the soft gravel 
is all gone now. 

Between Dutch Flat Ravine and Squire's Caiion are a number of hydraulic 
claims that have been worked many years, and have paid very little more than 
expenses. 

Teaff's Tail SLncE. — James TeafF, who owns one of the piping claims at 
Dutch Flat, also oavus a tail sluicc-r— probably the largest one in the State. The 
total length is 5,500 feet ; 2,500 feet long, five and a liaK feet wide, and 26 inches 
deep, in a tunnel, and 3,000 feet long and six feet wide outside. The constrac- 
tion of the tunnel and sluice cost 855,000 in money and four years' time, and was 
completed in 1863, The Teaff, Dutch Flat, Queen City, Bear River, Franklin, 
Boston, and Iowa companies, with 1,550 inches of water, tail into it. It is 
paved all the way with boulders 14 inches deep. The grade is 10 inches to 12 
feet, but eight inches would have been better. At intervals of 120 feet there are 
falls or dumps two feet and a half high in the tunnel and five feet high outside. 
These dumps are of great service in breaking up pieces of cement. 

Boulders 10 and 15 inches in diameter are constantly rushing through the sluice, 
and some of 20 inches frequently pass. The great weight of these boulders 
rushing along at a speed of nearly 10 miles an hour tries the sluice severely, 
and the rock bottom is always worn down about two inches in three months, 
and half of the paving boulders are broken so as to be unfit for further use. 

The rock for the paving is obtained by putting an iron grate in a sloping posi- 
tion in the sluice. The bars of the grate are an inch and a half thick and eight 
inches apart, so everything small passes through. A Chinaman stands by the 
grate, examines every boulder that stops, lays the good ones on one side, and 
throws the others over. 

Every evening 15 or 20 pounds of quicksilver are put into the sluice, and the 
largest amount in the sluice at one time is 900 pounds. The owner of the 
sluice never buys any quicksilver, but has it to sell, for he catches more than he 
puts in. He cleans up several sections — a section is between two dumps — between 
Saturday night and Monday morning, which time he has for cleaning up under 
a contract with the companies. Six men are employed 20 hours — 12 days' work — 
in cleaning up a section of ten boxes or 120 feet, and the expense, including 
new stone and repairing, is 83 75 per box. The yield is usually $25 per box, 
or 8250 per section, at a clean up, and there are 416 boxes in the sluice. Three 
men are constantly employed in looking after the sluice, and extra men are 
engaged to clean up. 

I^he companies which tail into the tunnel have about 600 feet of their own 
slaices. 

Drainage oe Bear River. — Bear river, opposite to Dutch Flat, is 70 feet 
deep, with tailings, the mass of which extends for some miles above and many 
below. It has been proposed to cut a tunnel three miles long fi"om Bear river at. 
Secret ravine through the railroad divide to the north fork of the American river, 
the bed of which is 1,000 feet lower than that of Bear river. It is supposed that 
an immense profit would be derived from such an enterprise, though the cost of 
making a tunnel for that length 11 feet wide and eight feet high, at 840 per foot, 



108 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

would be about $630,000. The bed of Bear river, opposite Dutch Flat, never 
was flunied, and is probably quite rich. The present deposit of tailings began to 
accumulate in 1858 or 1859. They rise about two feet per month from February 
till September, and then the floods of winter cany away a considerable portion of 
them. 

South Placer Quartz Regulatio^sts. — There is no general quartz regula- 
ti n: for Placer county ; each district has its o^vn rules. 

The following are the main provisions of the South Placer quaiiz regulations : 

Any person may take up and pre-empt one claim of 200 feet in length on the lode by 200 
feet in width, (following ttie dip of the lode,) with all dips, spurs, angles, and courses, with 
all precious metals therein contained. Such claims shall be valid by the locator's posting 
one notice thereupon, naming the number of feet claimed each way from said notice ; desig- 
nating, if possible, by croppings, the general direction of said lode, but if no croppings are 
visible, then by the words easterly, westerly, northerly, or southerly, as the case may be ; but 
in no case shall a location of a claim be invalid by reason of any misapprehension in regard 
to the direction of said lode. Notices of locations shall be put upon the records of this 
district, together with filing a copy of the same with the recorder, which shall give as full a 
description as possible of the claim. 

All claims shall be recorded as above specified within 20 days from the date of their notice. 

All claims in this district shall be held by working the same, the work to 
amount to at least one full day's work to each claim in each company in every 
month in good faith ; and after the sum of 850 to each name in such company shall 
have been expended upon the claim, on application to the recorder it shall be liis 
duty to go and see the work, and if he finds that the said amount of work or 
money has been expended as before stated, he shall give to the parties owning 
or their representatives a certificate stating that the said amount of work and 
money has been expended, which entitles the owners to lay over and suspend' 
work for the tenn of six months from the date of said application, and the claim 
will not be considered forfeited until after the said six months has expired. 

Cais^ada Hill axd Loxe Star Regulatioxs. — The quartz regulations of 
Canada Hill allow 20O feet on the lode to each person, and 50 feet on each side, 
and 10 feet on every cross-lode j and requhe five days' work per month for each 
individual claim or share. 

In the Lone Star district, west of Auburn, the regulations allow 200 feet to each 
person, and 300 feet on each side. A company's claim may be held for the first 
year by doing work of the value of $25 within 60 days after the location ; and 
an equal amount of work will hold it for any subsequent year. 

Greex Emigrant. — The Green Emigrant mine, three miles northwest from 
Auburn, is 1,000 feet long on a vein which appears to run north 65° west, but 
there are a number of veins that seem to concentrate at the top of the hill, in 
which a rich deposit has been found. 

The vein which runs through the hill is called the Green Emigrant, is three 
feet wide, and dips 45° to the southwest. The foot-wall is serpentine and the 
hanging wall talcose slate and schist. The vein itself near the smface seems 
to be decomposed quartz, talcose, and schist. The middle parallel vein is 18 
inches wide and nearly vertical, and the vein matter is like that in the Green 
Emigrant. The southwestern vein is fom* feet and a half wide, and dips 45° 
to the east. The vein matter is the same as in the other two. There are spaces 
of 50 feet between these parallel veins at the sm'face, but it is supposed that they 
unite 150 feet below the surface. The walls of the middle vein and the hang- 
ing wall of the southern vein are talcose slate ; and the foot-wall of the latter 
vein is a hard rock resembling sienite. A shaft was sunk 10 feet in the south- 
western vein, and the rock averaged $10 per ton. The mine was discovered iu 
1864, and not more than 50 tons have been crushed, yielding $100 per ton. The 
yield for the first two years was $20,000, but the proprietors refuse to tell what 
it has been since. Rumor, which probably exaggerates grossly, says that $100,000 
have been taken out in a hand mortar in tlie first six months of 1867. That 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 109 

many ricli specimens have been obtained is indubitable. All the work in the 
mine, except on rare occasions, is done by two" partners in it, and strangers are 
not permitted to enter. The rich deposit is found in streaks near the walls. 
Tlie mine is opened by a tunnel 225 feet long. The mine owners say the whole 
hill will pay — the rock for crushing and the gravel for washing. 

The first extension of the Green Emigrant on the north is 600 feet long, and 
is being opened or examined by cross cuts. Some auriferous talcose slate has 
been found, but so far no vein. 

Monahan & Co. have 2,000 feet on the same vein, and have done nothing. 

The Wells claim is 2,400 feet long, and the vein is five feet wide. There are 
two shafts, one 50 and the other 40 feet deep. Forty tons have been crushed, 
and they yielded 812 50 per ton on an average, after the specimens had been 
picked out. 

The first extension south of the Green Emigi-ant is 2,000 feet long. A shaft 
has been sunk 25 feet, and the vein is IS inches wide. The rock prospects well. 

New Yoek axd Empire. — The New York mine, fonnerly known as the Con- 
rad, one mile west of Auburn, has three veins, each two f-eet wide, not more than 
200 feet apart. 

The Empire Company, at Ophir, has 11,000 feet of claims on various veins, 
and is working in a shaft 35 feet deep, in a vein two feet wide. The mill 
has 10 stamps, and began to run in ]\Iarch of this year. The average yield is 
$S per ton, exclusive of the sulphurets, which are not saved. An experiment was 
made in this mill of w'orking the float quartz, which covers the whole country 
near Ophir, but it did not pay. The working vein is in granite and runs north 
and south. The mill was burned down in July, after it was visited. 

ScHNABLE. — The Julianno or Schnable mine, on Jenny Lind Flat, near 
Ophir, is 2,000 feet long on a vein two and a half feet wide, running north and 
south in granite, and dipping 80° to the east. A shaft has been sunk 105 feet, 
and drifts have been run 50 feet below the surface, 1,200 feet on the vein, in pay 
all the way. The pay is evenly distributed through the vein, and the average 
yield of free gold, as reported by the proprietor, is 86 per ton ; but the general 
impression in the neighborhood is that the mine is quite valuable. The expense 
for stopping out is $2 per ton, and the total expense 84. The croppings have 
paid for 2,000 feet on the surface. The rock contains seven per cent, of sulphu- 
rets, which assay 8147 per ton, or 810 per ton of rock. There is a five-stamp 
mill which has been running for two years and a half, working 25 or 30 tons 
per week. 

Waltee a^b St. Lawkexce. — The "Walter mine, 900 feet, at Ilamberg 
Flat, is on a ^'%in which runs northwest and southeast, averages 18 inches 
in thickness, and dips 80° to the southwest. A shaft has been sunk 45 feet, 
and drifts have been run 48 feet on the vein in pay rock all the way. There is 
slate wall on both sides, but in some places the granite comes to the west wall. 
Some very rich specimens have been found. The mine has no mill. Twenty 
tons have been crushed, and the yield was 813 per ton. 

The St. La-uTcnce' Company has three claims. The St. La^n-ence vein, on 
which they are working, runs northeast and southwest, dips southeast 65°, and 
is 20 inches wide. The claim on this vein is 1,400 feet long. A shaft has 
been sunk 75 feet, and drifts have been run 85 feet in pay all the way. The 
walls are granite, with a slaty gouge about an inch thick on eacli side. The 
surface was worked Avith a profit l)y Itlexicans for many j-ears. The St. Lawrence 
. claim on the Boulder vein is 2,400 feet long. The vein is three and a half feet 
wide, and has the same course, dip, and walls as the St. Lawrence. A shaft has 
been sunk 75 feet, and drifts have been run 75 feet. An assay of the sulphurets 
shows 8138 gold and 8158 silver per ton. An assay of dry slum showed $19 
gold and 846 silver per ton. 

GoLDEisf Rule. — The Golden Rule Company, of Sacramento, (to be distin- 



110 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

gnishecl from the Golden Rule Comjxany of San Francisco, wliicli lias a valuable 
mine on the Mother lode in Tuolumne count}^,) has claims, each 2,000 feet long, 
on three parallel veins nine miles south-southwest of Auburn. The eastern vein 
is three feet thick, and has been opened by a shaft 250 feet deep and drifts 160 
feet long on the vein, all the way in rock that averages $12 to the ton. The 
middle vein is two feet thick, and the rock averages $8. This is 100 feet 
from the eastern vein, has been reached by a cross-drift from it, and a drift in 
the vein has l)een run CO feet. The western vein is 60 feet distant, ip fifteen 
inches wide, and has been opened to a depth of 75 feet by a shaft, and to a length 
of 50 feet by drifts. The eastern and middle veins show quartz of the same 
quality ; the western has a bluish hard quartz, containing more free gold than 
the others, which have white quartz and sulphurets. A 20-stamp mill is going 
u]5, and also a reverberatory furnace, with a capacity to roast a ton at a charge. 
The sulphurets are to be concentrated with Hungerford's concentrator. There is 
a 75-horse power steam engine and steam hoisting works. For hoisting, a flat 
wire rope is used. 

Stewart's Flat, American Bar, and Damascus. — Stewart's Flat mine, 
1,350 feet long, is on a vein two and a half feet wide, running north-nortlieast 
and south-southwest, in granite walls. A shaft has been sunk 120 feet, and 
drifts have been run 380 feet on the vein in pay all the way. The average 
yield is $15 per ton. The mine was worked from 1862 to 1864, and was then 
left idle till this spring, when work was resumed. There is a five-stamp mill. 

At American Bar, two miles below Michigan Bluff, a quartz mill is being built. 

The Damascus quartz mine, at Damascus, was worked for three years, paying 
a profit part of the time, and has been idle for the last three years. The vein is 
] 2 feet wide and the mill has five stamps. 

Red Stone. — The Red Stone, 10 miles "north of Dutch Flat, on the north 
branch of the north fork of the American river, is 2,400 feet long, on a vein which 
runs northwest and southeast, and is five and a half feet wide, between granite 
and talcose slate. A depth of 165 feet has been reached, and drifts have been 
run 30 feet in the vein. The rock, so far as examined, is very rich. A four- 
stamp mill has been running, and an 18-stamp mill is now in the course of 
erection. 

There is a mill of tw^o stamps erected in Bear Valley, for the purpose of pros- 
pecting the Champion and the Blue Belle lodes, both of which yield excellent 
quartz. 

Canada Hill. — Canada Hill, on the Forest Hill ridge, 10 miles west of 
die summit, has a number of quartz lodes, some of which are very promising at 
the suiface. The gulches about the hill are full of rough gold and gold-bearing 
quartz. Most of the miners there are Mexicans. The Secret mill, built four 
^•ears ago, ran two years and is now standing idle. 

The Buena Vista Company are opening a quartz claim. 

Bald Mountain, two miles east of Canada Hill, is covered with float-quartz, 
and many of the pieces contain specks of gold plainly visible. There has been 
much prospecting for lodes, but none of any size have been found. 

Harpending Mine. — The Gold Quarry Company's property, familiarly 
known as the Banker or Harpending mine, is situated near Lincoln, on a deposit 
similar to that of Quail Hill, in Calaveras county. The ores are delivered by 
contract at 40 cents per ton. A 40-stainp mill is at work, crushing about five 
tons daily to the stamp. The labor is principally Chinese. The estimated cost 
of the entire extraction and treatment is within $1 per ton. 

Professor Silliman, in a paper on the Haq^ending and Quail Hill deposits, 
says: 

Accompanying the entire mass of decomposition at both localities, occur both gold and 
silver, disseminated with remarkable uniformity in all parts of the ore ground. At Whiskey 
Hill films of metallic silver are visible upon the talcose masses, stained green by malachite 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. Ill 

or chrysocolla. The gold is rarely seen in situ, being mostly obscured by the very rusty 
and highly-stained character of the associated materials. But it is rare that, on washing a 
small quantity of any of the contents of these great deposits, gold is not found in angular 
grains or small ragged masses, from the size of a few grains' weight to impalpable dust. 
Nuggets of several pennyweights occur occasionally. This gold has evidently accompanied 
the sulphurets and been left in its original position and condition by their decomposition. 
There can be little doubt that the gold of the gulches adjoining these deposits has been 
derived from them. At Whiskey Hill the gulch gold ceases to be found as soon as the limits 
of this deposit are passed; and the same is true at Quail Hill. The occurrence of deposits 
of this nature throughout the range of the foot hills seems to offer the best solution which has 
suggested itself of the origin of the placer gold, which is found in situations so far removed 
from the gold belt of the upper sierras, and away from sources usually recognized as those 
to which placer gold may be referred. # » # # * 

The chemical results of the extensive decomposition of metallic sulphids which has in 
former times occurred at these localities offer an interesting problem in chemical geology. 
The sulphur has been removed chiefly as sulphuric acid, beyond doubt, which has combined 
with iron and copper to form sulphates of those metals. These have, for the most part, dis- 
appeared, being washed out by the atmospheric waters, and have followed the drainage of 
the country. At Whiskey Hill I found the sulphate of iron, (coquimbite,) sulphate of cop- 
per, (cyanosite,) and alum. The water of the shaft contains copper enough to redden the 
iron tools. * * » - * * * * ^ 

From all the evidence presented, we seem justified in regarding these remarkable metallic 
deposits as segregated veins, holding a pretty uniform and high tenor of gold and silver, 
associated with and derived from the decomposition of extended masses of metallic sulphur- 
ets and quartzose matter, and carrying, at times, ores of copper, the commercial value of 
which is, however, entirely subordinate to that of the precious metals which are found to 
characterize these veins or ore channels. 



SECTIOJf II. 

NEVADA COUNTY. 

Nevada county; California, has for its eastern boundary the dividing line 
between California and Nevada State ; extends across the summit and down the 
westerly slope of the SieiTa Nevada mountains to the foot hills that border the 
eastern edge of the Sacramento valley. Its northerly and southerly boundaries 
are the Middle Yuba and Bear rivers, to the sources of those streams; thence 
due east to the State line. Its length from east to west is about 65 miles, having 
an average breadth of 20, and containing about 1,300 square miles. It is near 
the middle of the great gold region that stretches along the westerly slope of 
the mountain chain, extends entirely across the auriferous belt, and in the last 
nineteen years has produced more gold than any tract of country of equal extent 
in the world.* The elevation above the level of the ocean ranges from 800 to 
1,000 feet, along the foot hills, and rises to 8,000 and 9,000 feet in places oil 
the summit, thus affording a great variety of climates. On and near the summit 
the ground is covered with snow for more than half the year, while at the foot 
hills snow and ice are seldom seen. 

Several streams, which have their sources high up in the mountains, flow 
westerly through the county, and empty into the main Yuba or Bear river. The 
most considerable of these are the South Yuba, Deer creek, and Greenhorn, 
which, Avith their tributaries, have cut deep channels in the primitive rock. 
Between these streams and those forming the northerly and southerly boundaries 

* Professor B. Silliman says of the product of the valley district : 

"The place has obtained a well-earned celebrity as the most prosperous of all the gold 
quartz-mining districts in California. Quartz mining was begun here as early as 1850, and 
has beeu continued, on the whole, with a steadily increasing success, to the present time. 

"It is difficult to obtain exact statistics of the total product of the Grass Valley quarta 
mines, but it is believed by those best able to form a trustworthy opinion on this subject 
that the product in 1886 was probably not less than $2,000,000, while for the whole period 
from 1851— say 14 years— it was probably in excess of $23,000,000." 



112 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

of tlie connt}^ are four main ridges riuining- nearly at right angles Avitli tlie moun- 
tain chain, and varying in length from 25 to 40 miles. These ridges are com- 
jDOsed mainly of gravel and alluvial deposits, the debris from the higher moun- 
tains, and matter of volcanic origin. In places the bed rock rises nearly to the 
surface, but in general the alluvium is from 100 to 200 feet in depth, and at the 
higher elevations is covered with basaltic rocks and a deep volcanic cement. 
The volcanic covering is supposed at one time to have extended over a much 
larger area than at present, Ibniiing extensive table lands, but in course of time 
has been worn away on the lower portions and along the margins of the ridges, 
leaving tlic alluvium as the upper surface, and which now constitutes the prin- 
cipal field for hydraulic mining.* 

* Professor Silliman, in an article publishod in Bean's Directory of Nevada, says of the 
general geological character of the Grass Valley district : 

"The gold-bearing rocks at this place are mostly highly metamorphic schists or sandstone 
passing into diorite or greenstone syenite. These greenstones, seemingly crystaline, are 
probably only highly altered sedimentary rocks, containing a large amount of protoxide of 
iron with sulphuret of iron. In some parts of the district slaty rocks occur, more or less 
talcose or chloritic in character ; masses of serpentine also abound, forming at times one 
wall of the quartz veins. This serpentine is probably raetamorpiiic of the magnesian rocks 
last named. The red soil, seen almost everywhere in the Grass Valley district, has its origin 
from the peroxidation of the iron contained in the greenstones and diorites, and set at liberty 
by its decomposition. 

"The line of contact between the gold-bearing and metamorphic rocks of Grass Valley 
and the granites of the Sierra Nevada is met on the road to the town of Nevada, about a half 
mile before coming to Deer creek. The talcose and clUoritic slates are seen to the north, in 
the direction of the Peck load, and in the slate districts of Deer creek. 

"The dip and strike of the rocks in the Grass Valley region is seen to vary greatly in 
different parts of the district. Following the course of Wolf creek, a tributary of Bear river, 
it will be observed that the valley of this stream — which is Grass Valley — as well as of its 
principal branches, follows, in the main, the line or strike of the rocks. In the absence of 
an accurate map of the region it may not be easy to make this statement evident. But all 
who are familiar with the chief mines of this district will recall the fact that the course of the 
veins in the Forest Springs location, at the southern extremity of the district, is nearly north 
and south — N. about 20° E. — with a very flat dip to the cast ; while at the Eureka mine, on 
Eureka Hill, about four miles to the northward, the course of the vein is nearly east and 
west, with a dip to the south of about 78 degrees. Again, commencing at North Gold Hill 
and following the covu'se of the famous vein which bears the names of Gold Hill, Massaclm- 
.setts Hill, and New York Hill, we find the veins conforming essentially to the southerly 
course of the stream, Avith an easterly dip. The North Star, on Weimar Hill, has likewise 
the same general direction of dip. Near Miller's ravine, at El Dorado mill, "Wolf creek makes 
a sudden bend to the left or east, leaving the Lone Jack, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Allison 
Ranch mines to the west. All these last-named mines are found to possess a westerly dip, 
ghowing the existence of a synclinal axis running between the base of New York Hill and 
the mines having westerly dips last named, along which, probably, the veins will, if explored 
in depth, be found 'in basin.' The dip at Lone Jack is about 30'^ west; at Allison Ranch 
it is about 4Tfi west. Just belo\v the Allison Ranch mine Wolf cieek again makes a sharp 
turn to the left; nearly at a right angle, and then resumes its former course with the same 
abruptness. A miie lower down, where it strikes the Forest Springs locations, we find the 
Morambagua inclosed in syer.itic rocks, dipping at a very low angle to the east ; a dip is seen 
also, at a still less angle, in the Shamrock, yetfurther south. There is probably a saddle or 
anticlinal axis below Uie Allison Ranch mine, due to the elevation of the syenitic mass, which, 
it seems probable, sets in at the sharp bend in the stream, before alluded to, and where the 
ravine trail joins it. The stream probably runs pretty nearly in the basin of the synclinal. 

"The rocks on the cast side of Wolf creek, and above Forest Springs locations, dip 
westerly. Such is the case at Kate Hayes and with the veins on Osborn Hill. The middle 
branch of the creek sweeps around to the east, forms its junction with the north fork, and 
the veins explored there near its upper waters, as at Union Hill, the Burdette ground. Mur- 
phy vein, Luckj', and Cambridge, all dip southwest or south, conformably to the Idaho and 
Eure^ia, and at a pretty high angle. The Eureka vein, going west, faults in the Whitinsr 
ground, and, having previously become almost vertical, has, west of the fault, a northerly 
dip at a high angle. At the Coe ground this northerly dip is also found at an angle of about 
50°. At Cincinnati Hill the vein dips southerly, in a direction exactly opposite to that ot 
the North Star, there being a valley between the two, and a saddle or anticlinal between Cin- 
cinnati and Massachusetts Hills. 

•'These facts, which by a more detailed statement could be easily multiplied, seem to war- 
rant the conclusion that the course aiid dip of the Grass Valley veins is especially conformable 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 113 

Tlie whole country was originally covered with magnificent forests, the differ- 
ent varieties of the pine predominating in the more elevated regions, and giving 
place to the oak in the foot-hills. As the first settlers had no interest in the 
soil, and felt that they were but sojourners for a time in the mines, the timber 
has been wasteful^ used, and much of it has disappeared. 

The entire county is what might be termed mineral land, as distinguished 
from agricultural. Yet there are many sheltered valleys of rich, arable soil 
wliich have been cultivated, and amply rewarded the husbandman. The largest 
of these is Pema valle}^ lying near the westerly border of the county, and con- 
taining about 2,000 acres of good soil, wliich has been occupied and cultivated 
for many years. 

Settlement. — The first settlement in what is now Nevada county was made 
in the summer of 1848, when the south and middle branches of the Yuba were 
prospected for gold foi- a considerable distance into the mountains, and many 

to that of the rocks, and that the streams have, in general, excavated their valleys in alikfj 
conformable manner. " 

In reference to the gold-bearing veins of Grass Valley, Professor Silliman says : 
" The quartz veins of Grass Valley district are not generally large. Two feet is probably 
a full average thickness, while some of the most productive, and those which have given 
from the first a high reputation to this region, have not averaged over a foot, or possibly 
eighteen inches in thickness. There are some exceedingly rich veins, which will hardly 
average four inches in thickness, and which have yet been worked at a profit, while at the 
same time there are veins like the Eureka, which have averaged three in thickness, and the 
Union Hill vein over four feet. The Grass Valley veins are often, perhaps, usually imbedded 
in the iuclosing rocks, with seldom a fluccan or clay selvage or jjarting, although this is 
sotfietimes found on one or both walls. 

"The walls of the fissures and the contact faces of the veins are often seen to be beautifully 
polished and striated. 

" The veins are, as a rule, highly mineralized, crystalline, and affording the most unmis- 
tak.able evidence of an origin from solution in water, and afford not the least evidence of an 
igneous ori-gin. Calcedonic cavities and agatized structure are very conspicuous features in 
many of the best characterized and most productive of the gold-bearing veins of this district. 
These indisputable evidences of an aqueous origin are seen in Massachusetts Hill, Ophir 
Hill, Allison Ranch, Kate Hayes, and Eureka. 

"The metallic contents of the Grass Valley veins vary extremely ; some carry but little or no 
visible gold or sulphurts, although the gold tenor is found in working in mill to be satis- 
factory, and the sulphurets appear on concentrating the sands from crushing. This is the 
case in the Lucky and Cambridge mines, for example. But in most cases the veins of this 
district abound in sulphurets, chiefly of iron, copper, and lead, the sulphureted contents 
varying greatly in the same vein ; iziuc and arsenic are foirnd also, but more rarely, the 
most noted example of arsenical sulphurets being in the Norambagua and on the Houston 
Hill; lead abounds in the Union Hill lodes, (as galena,) and the same metal is found associated 
with the yellow copper in parts of the Eureka mine. The gold when visible is very com- 
monly seen to be associated with the sulphurets; this was particularly the case in Massa- 
chusetts Hill, while Rocky Bar and in Scadden Flat, on the same vein, the gold is found 
sometimes in beautiful crystallized' masses, binding together the quartz, and almost destitute 
of sulphurets. Mr. William Watt informed me that in working some seventy thousand 
tons of rock from Massachusetts Hill vein, the average tenor of gold was about $80 ; but at 
times this vein was almost barren, while again the gold was found in it so abundantly, 
especially where it was thin, that it had to be cut out with chisels. It is matter of notoriety 
that in the Gold Hill vein, (continuation of the vein in Massachusetts Hill,) portions of the 
lode were so highly charged with gold that the amount sequestered by the miners in a single 
year exceeded $50,000. On the other liand, in the Cambridge and Lucky mines, having a tenor 
of about $35 to $60 gold to the ton, the precious metal is seldom visible. In the Eureka, 
where the average tenor of gold in 18G6 was $50 per ton, it seldom exhibited what may ue 
called a ' specimen ' of gold. 

"The structure of the veins in Grass A^alley varies in different portions of the district, 
especially in respect to the distribution of the pyrites and portions of the adjacent wall. 
On the Eureka Hill the veins possess a laminated structure parallel to the walls, enclosing 
portions of the diorite or talcoso rocks, forming closures or joints in which the vein splits 
easily. On these smfaces of cleavage minute scales of gold may often be detected by close 
inspection. The sulphurets are also seen to be arranged in bands or lines parallel to the 
walls. In many other cases this kind of structure is found to be wholly absent, while the 
sulphurets and gold appear to follow no regular mode of distribution. In a few mines the 



114 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

rich deposits Averc fomul in the gravel bars and along- the margins of those streams. 
Two or three parties remained in their camps over winter, hut the most of the 
adventurers returned to the vallej's or to San Francisco in the fall. The next 
season, when the news of the discoveries brouglit a rush of gold-seekers from the 
eastern States, the lower portion of the county, and as far up as Nevada City, 
was explored by prospectors. One or two companies of overland immigrants 
that crossed the mountains by the Truckee route stopped near Rough and Ready 
and remained there during the winter of 1849-50. Another company of immi- 
grants stopped in Grass Valley, and others who had found rich claims, including 
two or three families, spent the winter in the basin of Nevada. Mining, which 
commenced along the running streams, was gradually extended to the dry gulches 
and flats, and thence into the hills, thus greatly enlarging the known mining area. 
Enough jirospecting had been done in the summer and fall of 1849 to prove 
the surface diggings to be incredibly rich, individuals in some cases having taken 

sulpburets are arranged very distinctly in bands or zones, parallel to the walls, forming 
'ribbon quartz.' This is especially distinct in the Norambagua, where, as before mentioned, 
the sulpburets are arsenical, and the gold very finely disseminated. 

"The average tenor of the gold in the Grass Valley veins is believed to be considerably in 
excess of what is found in most other portions of California. In Allison Ranch, Massachusetts 
Hill, Rocky Bar, Ophir Hill, and Eureka, this average has probably reached l|50 to the ton. 
In many other mines it lias been considerably less, but, on the whole, $130 may not be far 
from the general average tenor of the whole district, meaning, of course, the amount actually 
saved by milling operations. 

"The loss of gold is very various, but is probably nearly always greater than owners are 
willing to confess, if indeed they know, which is doubtful. It is certain, in one well-known 
mine, my own samples of quartz sands, and sulpburets from 'pans,' assayed respectively 
$2:1 and $57 per ton — a result which was later confirmed by the researches of another vfery 
competent mining engineer, quite independently. In other cases, as at Eureka and Noram- 
bagua, my own researches show the loss in the tailings to be very small, not exceeding $7 to 
the ton in the latter, and less than that in the former. 

"The gold in many of the Grass Valley mines is very easily w^orked, being clean, angular, 
and not very small, hence it is readily entangled in the fibre of blankets, together with a con- 
siderable portion of sulpburets, naturally leading to the method most conunonly in use in 
Grass valley for treatment of the gold ores." 

The same authority refers as tollows to the Grass Valley method of amalgamation : 

"What may properly be called the 'Grass Valley mode,' consists in the use of heavy 
stamps, 700 or 1,000 pounds, crushing usually two tons, sometimes two and a half tons 
of ore each in '24 hours through screens not exceeding No. 6, rarely so fine. Amalga- 
mating in battery and copper aprons are usually united. In some mills mercurial rifiles 
are placed in front of the discharge, but more commonly the whole body of crushed stuff is 
led at once over blankets, which are washed out every few minutes into tanks, where the free 
gold and sulpburets are allowed to collect preparatoiy to being passed through the 'Attwood 
amalgamators.' These simple machines are designed to bring the gold into thorough con- 
tact with mercury contained in little vats, sunk iu the surface of an inclined table, over 
which the stuff is fed to the vats iu a regulated manner by a stream of water, while iron 
blades slowly revolve iu the vats to cause a mixture of the sands and quicksilver. By this 
apparatus, at the Eureka mill, iJO per cent, of all the gold is obtained which is saved 
from the ore. Beyond the amalgamators the sands are carried over amalgamatic copper 
sluices, and are put through various ore-saving processes, with a view especially to concen- 
trating the sulpburets. These processes vary much in different mines. In some mills, 
especially the Ophir, much more elaborate mechanical apparatus has lately been introduced, 
with what results still remains to be seen. It is certain that if the method of treatment just 
sketched seems imperfect, (as it undoubtedly is,) it is the method which has hitherto yielded 
the larce returns of gold for which Grass valley has obtained its well-deserved renown. As 
the development of the district goes forward, cases will occur of veins containing gold in a 
state of very fine division, to which other methods of treatment must be applied. Such , 
examples indeed already exist, and the problems which they ofierwill be met by the use of 
other systems of amalgamation, or by suitable modifications of the existing system. 

" Value of the Sulpiiurets. — The sulpburets occurring in the Grass Valley district are 
usually rich in gold — some of them remarkably so. In quantity they probably do not on 
an average amount to over one per cent, of the mass of the ores, although in certaiu mines 
they are found more abundantly. For a long time there was uo better mode known of treat- 
ing them than the wasteful one of grinding them in pans and amalgamating. In this way 
lately was 60 per cent, of the gold tenor saved. After many abortive efforts, at length com- 
plete success has been met with iu the use of Plattner's chlorination process. Mr. Deetken, 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 115 

out tliousands of dollars in a few days, and tlie fame of the mines reacliing other 
parts of the State, the hills and ravines of the county were overrun -with eager 
prospectors in the spring and summer of 1850. During that season settlements 
were made and mining commenced in every part of the county, except what is 
now JMeadow Lake township, while the towns of Nevada, Grass ValVv, and 
Rough and Ready each became the centre of a large mining population. No 
definite estimate can be made of the gold jiroduct of the county in 1850 ; but 
it must have been large, for there were not less than four or five thousi.nd men 
engaged in the mines. The claims were extraordinarily rich, and a considerable 
proportion of the miners returned to their fomier homes with what they consid- 
ered snug fortunes, of from S5,000 to 810,000 each, as the result of their sum- 
mer's work. Never were fortunes more easil}^ made by the unskilled laborer. 

In the spring of 185] the legislature passed an act for the organization of 
the county, the ten'itory having previously been comprised within the limits of 

now connected with the reduction works of the Eureka mine, is entitled to the credit of hav- 
ing overcome the difEcuUies which formerly prevented the successful use of this process in 
Grass Valley, a more detailed description of which will be found in our notice of the Eureka 
mine." 

In reference to the length and depth of productive ore ground, the following remarks, by 
Professor Silliman, are interesting : 

" Of the length of the productive portion of quartz veins and the depth at which they com- 
mence to become productive, Grass Valley offers some instructive examples: 

" The North Star vein, on Weimar Hill, has been proved productive on a stretch of about 
1,000 feet, while the tenor of gold has gradually increased with the depth, from an average 
of $20 iu the upper levels to nearly double that in the lower levels. The limits named are 
rather those of exploration than the known extent of the productive ore. In the vein on 
Massachusetts and Gold Hills, on the contrary, the distribution of the 'pay' has been found 
much more capricious, being at times extremely rich, and again, with no apparent reason, 
yielding scarcely the cost of milling. The Eureka mine offers the most remarkable example, 
however, of a steady increase from a non-paying tenor of gold near the outcrop to one of 
uncommon productiveness. An opinion has found advocates, and has been perhaps gene- 
rally accepted by most writers on the subject of gold-bearing quartz veins, that they were 
richest near surface and in depth became gradually poorer. There is nothing in the nature 
of the case, as it seems to me, to justify such a generalization more than there is to sustain 
an opposite opinion. If we accept facts as a guide, we tind in California that the deepest 
mines, for example, Hayward's Eureka, in Amador, 1,200 feet; North Star, 750 feet on tho 
slope; Princeton, in Mariposa county, 800 feet; Eureka, (Grass Valley,) 400 feet; Allison 
Ranch, 525 feet, &c., as a rule have had an increasing tenor of gold. If the Allison Ranch, 
the Princeton mine, and some others appear to be exceptions, tho answer is, we may reason- 
ably expect the same variations of productiveness iu depth which are known to exist in linear 
extent. The Princeton, after an excellent run of good ore, became suddenly poor, at a depth 
of over GOO feet, in 1865; but I am informed by Mr. Hall, the present superintendent, 
that the good ore came in again in a short distance. Mr. Laur, the French engineer, whoso 
papers of California mines is often quoted, cites the Allison Ranch mine in evidence of the 
theory of a decreasing tenor of gold iu depth, but it is in proof that since the date of Mr. 
Laur's visit (1862-'3) this mine has been at work on ores which have yielded over $100 value, 
its present suspended activity being due to causes quite unconnected with the intrinsic value 
of the mine. The rich ' chimneys' or productive zones of ore ground are known to be of 
various extent in quartz veins, from a few feet to many hundreds of feet, and it is impossible 
to assign any valid reason why we nuiy not expect the same changes in a vertical direction 
which we find in a horizontal. As fhe ore-bearing ground or shoots of ore have in many, if 
not iu most cases, a well-determined pitch off the vertical, it is self-evident that a vertical 
shaft or incline at right angles to the veins must, iu descending, pass out of the rich into the 
poor ground, at certain intervals, and it is perhaps due to an ignorance of this fact that miners 
have abandoned sinking because they found the ' pay ' suddenly cease in depth, when a 
short distance more would probably bring them into another zone of good ore. The expe- 
rience of every gold-mining district offers examples in illustration of these remarks. In 
quartz veins containing a considerable amount of sulphurets, it is evident that the outcrop- 
pings should offer much better returns to mining industry than will follow after the line of 
atmospheric decomposition has been passed, because above this line nature has set free the 
gold formedy entangled in the sulphurets, leaving it available for the common modes of treat- 
ment, with the added advantage oftentimes that the particles of free gold formerly distributed 
through a considerable section of the vein, are found concentrated iu a limited amount of ore. 
It is easy to reach the conclusion in such cases that the tenor of gold in the vein is less in 
depth, after tho real average tenor is reached, while iu fact it is neither greater nor less ; but 
the metal is no longer available by common methods of treatment. 



116 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TEREITORIES 

Yuba. NevacLa City, tlien the principal town and near tlie centre of population, 
was made the county seat, where it has ever since remained. The county is 
divided into nine townships for local government, viz : Nevada, Grass Valley, 
Rough and Ready, Bridgeport, Bloomlield, Eureka, Washington, Little York, 
and Meadow Lake. Rough and Ready comprises the foot-hills extending across 
the western end of the county, from the Yuba to Bear river; Meadow Lake 
includes the summit extending across the eastern end ; Bridgeport, Bloomfield 
and Eureka lie between the middle and south Yuba on the north ; Little York 
is on the south, mostly lying between Bear river and Greenhorn creek; and 
between Rough and Ready and Meadow Lake are the to^vnships of Grass Valley, 
Nevada and Washington, occupying the central position. 

Of the early settlers but few remained permanently in the county, by far the 
larger proportion returning to the east, or taking up then- permanent abode in 
other parts of California. But their places were filled by other adventurers, and 
the population gradually assumed a permanent character, and now numbers not 
far from 20,000 souls, of whom about one-third are adult males. The mhab- 
itants derive their support either directly or indirectly from the mines, on the pros- 
perity of which depend all other branches of business. 

Placee Mining. — Placer mining properly signifies the working of the shal- 
low deposits; but in California the term ''placer" is usually applied to the deep 
deposits as well as the shallow diggings — hydraulic and cement mining being 
only branches of placer mining — and all except the quartz lodes being desig- 
nated as placer mining. 

The placer mines of Nevada county have been worked steadily since 1849, 
and have yielded an amount of treasure that, could the figures be procured, 
would stagger belief. The rich pockets along the margins of the streams, and 
the shallow diggings and ravines that required no capital and but little prelim- 
inary labor to mine successfully, have been mostly worked out, and capital and 
skill are now indispensable to success, yet there is but little diminution in the 
yield. As claims are worked out in one place new ones are opened in other 
localities, and although failure in any given enterprise is about as likely as 
success, yet the prospect of big strikes, and the hope of acquiring a fortune or a 
competency by one or two years of well-directed labor, are incentives that can- 
not fail to enlist the skill of the most energetic of the mining population. 

At first, mining was confined to the gravel bars and beds of the running 
streams, and as these were partially exhausted, it gradually extended to the dry 
ravines, flats and hillsides adjacent. The rocker was the principal machine used 
for washing the auriferous sands and separating the gold from the lighter particles. 
It had been brought into use in the summer of 1848, during the first season of 
mining in California, though much of the gold obtained that season was separated 
by the Mexican method of washing the sand in wooden bowls. Sheet-iron pans 
are now used by the American miners for prospecting and other purposes, in 
place of the wooden bowls of the Mexicans. The rocker was superseded by 
the long-tom, by means of which a larger amount of earth and gravel could be 
washed ; and the long-tom in its turn gave place to the sluice. This was a most 
important improvement, and enabled miners to work many claims that would not 
pay with the rocker and long-tom.* 

* Professor Silliman, in a report on the property of the Eureka Ditch Company, says of the 
sources to which the gold iu California is referable : 

"The original source from whence all the gold of California has been derived is undoubt- 
edly the veins of gold-bearing quartz which occur so abundantly in all the slates and mcta- 
iporphic rock of the western slopes of the Sierras within the areas known as the gold regions, 
but this original or great source of the precious metal is historically secondary to the shallow 
and deep digging or placers, in the former of which gold was first discovered, and which 
dui-ing the early years of California history furnished nearly the whole of the metal sent into 
commerce. That the placers were derived from the degredation or breaking up of the aurif- 
erous veins and the distribution of the detritus thus formed by the agency of running water 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 117 

Ditches at length were constructed to bring the water over the hills, and as 
the miners were comjielled to leave the Hats "and ravines and take to the deeper 
diggings, the process of shovelling the earth into the sluices becatne unprofitable, 
and the practice of ground-sluicing came into use. By this process the surface- 
soil, being loosened up or thrown into a trench cut in the bed roclc, was washed 
away by a stream of water, leaving only the heavy gravel at the bottom to be 
shovelled into the sluices. Ground-sluicing was carried on extensively in this 

and ice does not admit of a question. It appears, also, to be pretty conclusively proved that 
the gold-bearing gravel is of two distinct epochs, both geologically very modern, but the 
later period distinctly separated in time from the earlier, and its materials derived chiefly from 
the breaking up and redistribution of the older or deep placers. These appear to be distinctly 
referable to a river system different from that which now exists, flowing at a higher level, or 
over a less elevated continental mass, and with more power, but generally in the direction 
of the main valleys of the present system. It was pretty early discovered that very exten- 
sive and valuable deposits of auriferous gravel lay at levels far above the present course of 
the streams, and that to wash these deposits required the adoption of new methods adapted 
to meet the case. Hence came the so-called hydraulic process, which, although in use now 
for more than ten years, has yet made barely more than a commencement upon the great 
mass of deep-lying auriferous shingle which remains to be treated by this method of gold 
washing. 

"Finally comes the era of quartz mining in depth, the successful prosecution of which 
demanded more skill and capital, as well as cheaper labor and better machinery, than the 
early days of California furnished. In this man undertakes to do for himself by the use of 
his own skill what in an earlier age nature had done for him on a grand scale, in breaking 
up the matrix of the precious metal, commencing at the fountain head of the stream of gold. 

"I propose at present to consider with some detail the second of the great sources of gold 
productions, viz : deep-lying placers. The character of these deposits is well illustrated by 
a description of the ground between the south and middle forks of the Yuba river, in Nevada 
county, where this description of gold deposit is well exposed in consequence of the consid- 
erable amount of mining work which has been performed there, the whole of this ground 
being controlled by the waters of the Middle Yuba Canal Company and of the Eureka Lake 
Water Company. 

" The Deep Placers of the Yuba. — The Yuba is an affluent of the Feather river, which 
it joins at Marysville on its way to its junction with the Sacramento. The south and middle 
forks of the Yuba river unite with the North Yuba, the course of which is nearly at right 
angles to these two branches, Vifhose mean course is west about 13° south, (magnetic,) the 
Feather river running about north and south. 

"The ridge of land embraced between the south and middle forks of the Yuba is from six 
to eight miles in width, and to the limits of the auriferous gravel, as thus far explored, about 
30 miles, forming an area of about 200 square miles. The elevation of this ridge above the 
sea is, at its western extremity, near French Corral, about 1,500 feet, from whence it gradually 
rises into the high Sierras, the Yuba Gap Pass being 4,.^70 feet above the sea, and the Downie- 
ville Buttes about 8,840 feet. This Mesopotamia is cut up by ravines descending from a 
central axis both ways into the valleys of the two rivers forming ' gulches ' with steep sides, 
often beautifully wooded. The more elevated portions of the land are covered by a heavy 
bed of volcanic ashes and breccia, Avhich evidently at an earlier day formed a coutinuoirs 
sheet over not only the tongue of land under consideration, but over the adjacent region, as 
is conspicuously seen in the sections afforded by the various rivers. This mass ef volcanic 
ashes contains numerous angular fragments of cellular lava, trachyte, basalt, porphyry, and 
volcanic mineral aggregates quite foreign to the general geology of the country. Its thick- 
ness varies with the topography and drainage of the surface, but it forms the summits of all 
the hills above a certain horizon, and in places reaches an elevation of from 2,000 to 3,000 
feet above the level of the rivers. Below Columbia the denudation of the surface has removed 
the volcanic matter, leaving the auriferous gravel exposed as the upper surface. This volcanic 
deposit receives from the miners the general name of 'cement,' a term it well deserves from 
its compact and tenacious character, much resembling pozzolana or Roman cement. 

"The auriferous gravel varies in thickness from 80 to 100 feet, where it has been exposed to 
denudation, to 250 feet or more where it is protected from such action. Probably 120 feet is 
noi an over-statement for its avei-age thickness in the marginal portions, where it has been 
exposed by working the deep diggings or hydraulic claims. This vast gravel bed is com- 
posed of rounded masses of quartz, greenstone, and all the metamorphic rocks which aro 
found in the high Sierras. 

" It is often locally stratified, but I could find no evidence of any continuity in its beddings. 
The lower portions are composed of larger boulders than the upper as a general rule, but this 
does not exclude the occasional presence of huge boulders in the central and upper portions. 
In a fresh fracture of the Avhole thickness of these deposits, such as may be seen daily in the 
' claims,' which are being actively worked, a striking contrast of color is seen between the 



118 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

country in 1851 and 1852, tlie use of the sluice proper at that time hcing well 
understood, and having in a great measui'e superceded other methods. With most 
of the mining improvements there were no especial inventions, but the different 
appliances came into use gradually as they were needed by the changing charac- 
ter of mining, and may be considered as the result of the combined skill and 
ingenuity of the mining population. AVilliam Elwell put up and used the first 
sluice at Nevada City, in February or March, 1850, but he does not claim it as 

lower and upper portions of the gravel mass, consequent on the percolation of atmospheric 
waters and air, oxidizing the iron resulting from the decomposition of pyrites, and staining 
the gravel of a lively red and yellow color in waving lines and bands, contrasting boldly 
with the blue color of the unoxidized portions. A close examination 6f the blue colored 
portion of the gravel shows it to be highly impregnated with sulphuret of iron, (iron pyrites,) 
forming, in tact, the chief cementing material which holds the pebbles in a mass as firm as 
conglomerate, requiring the force of gunpowder to break it up. 

"In the upper portions of these beds are frequent isolated patches, often of considerable 
extent, composed of fine sand, clearly showing water lines, curved, sloping, or horizontal, 
but never for any distance regular, and in these portions occur frequently large quantities of 
lignite, or fossil wood, little changed from its original condition, but blackened to the color 
of coal and flat with pressure. Among these remains are logs similar in appearance to the 
Manzanita, now growing abundantly on the hills of auriferous gravel. Some of these, which 
I measured, were 15 to 18 inches in diameter, and 10 to 15 feet in length. Occasionally the 
mass of this ancient driftwood accumulated in these eddies of the current, where they were 
deposited with the fine sands, amount almost to a continuous bed of lignite. 

"Wedge-shaped and lenticular masses of tough yellow and whitish clay also occur in the 
ancient drift, replacing the gravel and aftording, by their resisting power, a great impedi- 
ment to the operations of mining. 

"The 'sla'jking down,' or disintegration which a few months' exposure of the hard gravel 
'cement' produces, is due mainly, if not entirely, to the decomposition of the associated 
pyrites before noted. It is remarkable how large a part of the smoothed and beautifully 
rounded stones, even those of large size, undergo a similar slacking by atmospheric action, 
even in a very brief period of time, rendering it almost impossible to preserve specimens of 
the gravelly concrete unless they are protected by varnish. The most unyielding of the 
' cement' masses are sometimes left over one season by tlie miners, exposed to the air and 
frosts, to secure the benefits of this disintegration, without which but little of the contained 
gold can be obtained. 

" The gold is disseminated throughout the entire mass of this great gravel deposit, not uni- 
formly in value, but alwaj's in greater quantity near its base or on the bed rock. The upper 
half of the deposit is found to be always less in value than the lower part, sometimes so poor 
that it would be unprofitable working by itself, but inasmuch as there is no practicable mode 
of working the under stratum, without first moving the upper portion, in practice the whole 
is worked. 

" The gold rarely occurs in large masses in this ancient gravel. Often on the polished and 
very smooth surfaces of the 'bed rock' and of the superincumbent masses of gravel when 
freshly raised from their long resting place, the scales of brilliant yellow metal are beautifully 
conspicuous. These are frequently inlaid so firmly upon the hard granite floor of the ancient 
river or glacier as to resemble hard stone mosaics. In fact the whole surface of the bed rock 
requires to be worked over by the pick to secure the gold entangled in its surface, to a depth, 
when soft„ (as of mica or chloritic slate or gneiss,) ot several inches. # •- » 

"The bed rock, as it is significantly termed by the miners, shows everywhere, when freshly 
exposed, the most conspicuous evidence of aqueous or glacial action. The course and direc- 
tion of the motion which has left its traces everywhere is plainly discernable. * » # 

"The 'bed rock' varies of course in different portions of the area now under consideration, 
being either granite, gneiss, greenstone, or shale. In the granite are observed numerous 
minute quartz veins pursuing a course parallel to each other olten for hundreds of feet without 
interruption. 

" In the 'American claim,' at San Juan, the granite is succeeded on the west by a large 
jointed blue siliceous shale of the same strike with the main joints of the granite. This latter 
rock is covered by numerous very large boulders of metamorphic conglomerate, of which no 
traces are seen in place. 

"The course of the ancient current, where I had an opportunity ot measuring it, appears to 
have been about 20° to 23° west of north, (magnetic,) which it will be observed is nearly at 
right angles to the mean course of the middle and south forks of the Yuba river ; but it is not 
far from parallelism with the axis of the Sacramento river valley, or of the great valley between 
the coast range and the Sierra Nevada. I have noted the same general direction of the 
scratches elsewhere in the great gold region, but additional observations are required to justify 
any comprehensive generalization. This much appears clearly shown, however, by the 
present state of our knowledge on this subject, viz : that the spread of the ancient gold- 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 119 

an invention — some one having suggested the idea to him. A. Chabot and M. 
F. Hoit used them soon after, and greatly improved the arrangement of the rifiles 
and the method of working.t 

Hydraulic Mixing. — The hydraulic system came into use in Nevada county 
in 1853, and enabled miners to work -with profit a vast amount of auriferous 
ground that would never have paid by the old process of sluicing. About April, 
1852, A. Chabot, mining near Nevada City, used a hose of some thirty-five or 
forty feet in length, through which the water was conducted from the top of the 
l)ank to the bottom of his diggings. There was no pipe or nozzle at the 'end, 
but still it was found to be a great saving in sluicing off the earth and gravel 
that had been picked down, and also a convenience in cleaning up the bed-rock. 
So far as known the hose was not used that season in any other claims, and it 
does not appear that Chabot discovered the great advantage that would result by 
directing the stream of water against the bank. This discovery was made by 
E. E. Matterson a year later. In April, 1853, Matterson and his partners, who 
were working a claim on American Hill, rigged up a hose, attached a nozzle at 
the end, and directing it against the bank, as water is thrown upon a building 
by a fire engine, found that a small stream of water would do the work of a 
huncked men in excavating earth. Very soon after this the hydraulic was adopted 
by the miners throughout tlie county wherever water and a suflicient fall could 
be procm'ed. Successive improvements have been made in hjnlraulic mining, 
until the appliances now in use but little resemble those of 1S53 ; but the prin- 
ciple is the same, and to Matterson is due the credit of the important discovery. 

The water is usually conducted into the diggings through largo iron pipes, at 
the end of which, the hose is attached, and the water having a high fall is com- 

bearint^ gravel was produced by a cause greatly more elevated than the existing river systeru, 
or, which is more probabie, at a time when the continent was less elevated than at present, * 
and moving in a direction conformable to the course of the valleys of the Sacramento and San 
Joaquin. We find it impossible to admit the existing river system as a cause adequate to the 
spreading of such vast masses of rounded materials ; the facts plainly point to a much greater 
volume of water than any now flowing in the valley. The section already given illustrates 
perfectly the relations of the present river system to the more ancient one whose grand eflect^ 
are chronicled in the bed rock and its vast superincumbent mass of auriferous gravel. It 
serves also to illustrate the process now in progress by which the existing river system derived 
its gold-bearing sands, in great part at least, from the cutting away and secondary distribu- 
tion of these ancient placers. 

' ' Those Avho have had the opportunity of visiting other portions of the great gold region of 
California than that now under consideration, will at once recognize the local character of the 
details given as perfectly consistent with the general phenomena of the ancient placers as 
observed elsewhere ; while at the same time great differences are found in many of the details. 
Thus in Calaveras and Tuolumne counties, W or KlO miles further south, the volcanic matter 
capping the auriferous gravel is found in the form of basaltic columns, beneath which occur 
the same phenomena already described. Here the wood contained in the gravel beds is 
beautifully agatized, or converted into semi-opal, as is also the case at Nevada City^ Placer- 
ville, and elsewhere, associated with beautiful impressions of leaves of plants and trees similar 
in appearance to those now found in this region. 

" This general description of the deep-lying placers of the Yuba might be greatly extndede 
from my notes, but enough has probably been said to convey the mipression that the phe- 
nomena here described are on a grand and comprehensive scale, and referable to a general 
cause long anterior in date to the existing river system — a cause which has been sufficient to 
break down and transport the gold-bearing veins of the Sierras, with their associating meta- 
:::orphic rocks, thus laying up in store for human use deposits of the precious metal in amount 
on a scale far beyond the notions generally prevailing of the nature of placer deposits." 

■' It is the opinion of geologists that subsequent to the tertiary period was the time when the main valleys 
of the continent were excavated by erosion. It was probably in this epoch that the deep-lying auriferous 
gravel was produced from the degradation of the metamorphic schists and quartz veins of the sierras by the 
joint action of water and of glaciers. 

t The sluice is undoubtedly the most essential of any one contrivance for savmg gold, and 
iS used in all placer mining operations. It can hardly be called a machine ; but is simply a 
board flume, on the bottom of which are fitted blocks of wood, I'ounded stones, or riffles, v/ith 
quicksilver to catch and detain the gold, while the earth and gravel is carried down by the 
current. 



120 RESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

pressed and forced through an aperture of one and a half to two inches in 
diameter. The pipes are made of heavy sheet iron, and the hose of stout canvas 
usually doul)le thiclvness. Where the pressure is great, the hose are still fm-ther 
strengthened by a net-work of strong cord. In some of the larger mining opera- 
tions five or six streams of water are kept plaj'ing upon the bank, undermining 
the ground and melting away the hills at an incredible rate. In this manner 
acres of ground, frequently 100 to 200 feet deep, are Avashed away in a 
single season, and the bed-rock left bare. The waiter shoots from the nozzle 
with tremendous force, and miners frequently direct the stream against huge 
l)oulders to roll them out of their way. The hydraulic is the most effectual 
method ever j^et devised for excavating large quantities of earth, and the pro- 
cess was employed to some extent in 1866, by the Central Pacific Railroad Com- 
pany in cutting through the deep hills near Dutch Flat. 

The American miners, except those engaged in quartz, are chiefly w^orking 
the deep hill diggings l^y the hydraulic, the shallow flats and ravines, as a gen- 
eral thing, being abandoned to the Chinese. In most cases, the cost of opening 
the deep claims is heavy, requiring considerable capital and the nerve to invest 
it, or the aggregated labor of a number of miners who are content to Avork, per- 
haps for years, in the hope of an eventual reward. In too many cases their 
labor and perseverance has come to naught. The richest deposits are found on 
the bed-rock in basins or in the channels of ancient streams, and to reach these 
tunnels have to be run in solid rock, A'-arying in length from a few hundred to 
several thousand feet in order to drain the ground and get an outlet for sluicing. 
Wherever practicable, a shaft is first sunk to prosj^ect the ground and ascertain 
the position of the basin or channel, so that the tunnel in coming in shall be 
beloAV the auriferous deposit. But this cannot always be done, and expensive 
tunnels are sometimes found to be too high to Avork the ground, and a loAver one 
must be run or the claim abandoned. The tunnel serves the double purpose of 
draining the ground and a sluiccAvay, and the mining usually commences from a 
shaft sunk from the surface to the head of the tunnel. 

The most important centre of hja'aulic mining in this countj^ is at North San 
Juan, in Bridgeport toAvnship, and a brief statement of the operations of some 
of the com^ianies there Avill give an idea of the scale on Avhich this branch of 
mining is conducted. The Eureka Company, AA'hose claims Avere on San Juan 
Hill, commenced a tunnel in August, 1855, to reach the inner basin. The tun- 
nel Avas completed in October, 1860, at a cost of $84,000, in actual assessments, 
and the cost incurred before a dividend Avas declared Avas $142,000. During 
the existence of the company the aA^erage number of men employed daily Avas 
25, and the total yield of the claims $530,000. The claims known as the 
Deadman Cut, Avhich Avere Avorked out in 1859, yielded $156,307, at a cost 
of $71,433. The claims of McKeeloA^ & Company, on Manzanita Hill, AA'ere 
Avorked from 1855 to 1864, yielding $368,932, and paying its OAvners in dividends 
$126,660. The claims above mentioned liaA'C been Avorked out, but there are 
other companies still canying on extensive operations in the vicinity, some of 
Avhich are deriving a handsome revenue from the profits of Avorking their claini». 
The tunnel of the American Company is 1,800 feet in length, having been ran 
much of the distance through blasting rock. This company has adopted all the 
improvements in hydraulic mining. They haA^e a mill Avith eight stamps for 
crushing cement, and their sluice boxes extend from Manzanita Hill to the middle 
Yuba, a distance of nearly a mile, Avhere they liaA^e pans for grinding the sand. 
The company usually employ 25 men, use 500 inches of Avater, and the claims 
yield from $10,000 to $15,000 a month. It will require three or four years 
longer to AVork out the claims. The tunnel of the Yuba Company is 1,500 feet 
in length, and was completed last spring after eleven years' labor. This com- 
pany-uses 400 inches of Avater, and has ground enough to last ten years. 
The tunnel of the Star Company is 1,400 feet in length, that of the Golden 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 121 

Gate Company 800 feet, the Wyoming Company 1,000 feet, the Knickerbocker 
2,000 feet, the Badger 700 feet, and that of theGoM Bluff Company 1,800 feet. 
These tunnels have been run for much of the distance through solid rock, which 
costs from $30 to $50 a foot. 

BiECHViLLE, situated four miles west of North San Juan, has also been a pros- 
perous locality for hydraulic mining. The Irish claims were worked by means 
of drifting for a number of years, and paid largely. Water was furnished by 
the Shady creek and Grizzly ditches, but in such limited quantities that little 
progress was made in hydraulic mining until 1857, when the Sliddle Yuba Canal 
Company extended their ditch to Birchville, and furnished water m abundance. 
In 1859 four bed-rock tunnels were projected, and completed in 1864, at an 
aggregate cost of $120,000. These tunnels drain the upper portion of the channel ; 
the lower portion will be drained by another tunnel 2,400 feet in length, now in 
course of construction, by means of which a large extent of valuable mining 
ground will be worked. The gross yield and net profits of the claims of five 
of the leading companies at Birchville, for 1866, were as follows, in round num- 
bers : 

Gross proceeds. Net profits. 

Irish American Company $180, 000 $133, 000 

San Joaquin Company 134, 000 68, 500 

Don Jose Company. 100, 000 72, 000 

Granite Tunnel Company 82, 000 24, 000 

Kennebec and American Company 85, 000 30, 000 

The years 1865 and 1866 may be regarded as the harvest time for the Birch- 
ville miners, as they had previously been at heavy expense in opening their 
ground, which is now nearly worked out. ]\Iany of the owners in the above 
claims are appropriating a large share of their profits to running the new tunnel. 

French Corkal is situated at the lower terminus of the auriferous gravel range 
that is found between the Middle and South Ynba rivers. The ravines and flats 
proved to be rich, and attracted thither a considerable number of miners, at 
seasons of the year when w'ater could be had to work the claims. The hill dig- 
gings were (hscovered in 1853, and ditches were constracted from Shody creek 
to bring in water to work them. Tunnels and cuts were run into the hills 
wherever fall could be obtained, the ditches were enlarged, and profitable mining 
soon followed. Subsequently deeper tunnels were run, in order to reach the 
bottom of the deposit, which was found to be from 100 to 200 feet below 
the surface. The total cost of the various cuts and tunnels of the district can- 
not be less than a quarter of a million dollars, and the amount of gold taken 
out mast be several millions. A large extent of valuable mining ground remains 
to be worked. In addition to the hydraulic mines, there is a broad, deep stratuni 
of blue cement gravel which is rich in gold. This will have to be Avorked by 
mill process, as is already being successfully done in other parts of the county, 
and will give work to several mills for years.* 

Moore's Flat, situated on the slope of the hill south of the Middle Yuba, in 
Eureka township, is another important centre of hydraulic mining. Several 
thousand acres of ground, averaging 100 feet in depth from the sm'face to the 
bed-rock, have been sluiced off, giving em2:)loyment to several hundred miners 
for the past 15 years. Of late the claims have been bought up by a few 
large companies, who are carrying on operations upon an extensive scale, and 
generally with success. At Wolsey's Flat, a mile below Moore's, are some of the 
deepest diggings in the county, the bank in one place being over 200 feet 
in height. Orleans flat, two miles above Moore's, was formerly an important 
mining locality, and at one time had a population of 600 or 800 ; but the diggings 

* For a more detailed account of this district see article on ditclies. 



122 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEREITOEIES 

being comparatively sliallow Lave been entirely worked out, and the town is 
now deserted. 

At North Bloomfield and Columbia Hill, in Bloomfield township, at Gopher 
Hill and Scotch Flat, in Nevada township, at Quaker Hill, in Little York, 
and many other places in the county, hydraulic mining is can'ied on quite exten- 
sively. 

The amount of capital invested in hydraulic and placer mining in the count}', 
including the cost of opening the claims, iron pipes, flumes and sluices, and 
various other implements and improvements, is estimated at $1,500,000. These 
mines give employment to about 2,000 men including several hundred Chinese, 
and yield annually not far from $3,500,000 — say $1,750 to each man. Three 
dollars a day is the usual wages paid to miners ; but the water bills and other 
expenses absorb a large portion of the gi'oss product, so that the net yield to the 
miners, if the whole could be averaged, would be but little in excess of their 
wages. Of course, some of the claims afford large profits, while others scarcely 
yield sufficient to pay water bills ; but the miners persevere to the extent of their 
means in hoj^es of striking better pay. 

Cement Mining. — In some of the amiferous deposits found in the beds of 
the ancient lakes and watercourses the gravel is cemented together so compactly 
that considerable force is required to pulverize it, in order to save the gold by 
the sluicing process. For this purpose various expedients have been devised by 
the miners, among which is the erection of stamp mills, similar to those used in 
crushing quartz, and the business has become of considerable importance in this 
county. Little York township has taken the lead in this branch of mining. 
Cement mills have also been erected in Washington, Eureka, Bridgeport, Nevada, 
and Grass Valley townships, but mostly as adjuncts to hydraulic mining, and the 
yield from this source, as compared with that from other branches of mining, is 
small. In Little York, however, it is the leading business. 

Blue cement gra\'X3l was found in many of the hill claims in Little York township 
as early as the summer of 1S52, and in some of the claims it was so tough that 
it had to be blasted in order to drift it out. A very small proportion of the gold 
was saved by merely running it once through the sluices, and the method at first 
adopted was to pile up the tailings and allow them to remain some months, until 
the action of the elements had partially decomposed them, and then sluice them 
again. In this manner each lot of gravel was run through the sluices six or 
eight times, requiring two or three years for the operation. The Chinamen work 
the cement in the same manner now, and many are of the opinion that it is the 
most efficient and economical method ; but the process is too slow for American 
miners. 

The first stamp mill for crushing cement was built by the Massassauga Com- 
pany, near the town of Little York, in the summer of 1857. This mill had no 
screens, but the cement was thrown into the battery, Avhere the stamps were kept 
running, and carried oft" into the sluices by a stream of water. Of course, much of 
the cement was not pulverized, but the tailings, after running through the sluice, 
were saved for a year or more and allowed to slack, when they were run through 
again, and yielded nearly as much gold as on the first run. Another mill was 
built near Little York in the spring of 1858, which was a considerable improve- 
ment on its predecessor, and cement mills have since been erected at You Bet, 
Red Dog, Hunt's Hill, Gougeye, and other places in the township. The screens 
now used are nearly as fine as those commonly used in the quartz mills, and it 
has been fully determined that the finer the cement is crushed the more gold will 
be saved. 

At the present time there are 16 cement mills in Little York tovvuship, having 
in all 136 stamps; two in Washington township with eight stamps, one in Eureka 
with eight stamps, one in Bridgeport with eight stamps, one in Nevada with 15 
stamps, and one in Grass Valley, with eight stamps. These make an aggregate 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 123 

in the county of 22 mills, with 185 stamps. Some of these mills are kept nm- 
ning' steadily, others are in operation only a portion of the time, and a number 
have been idle for a year or more in consequence of the inability of the owners 
to open their claims, and other causes. The amount of gravel crushed by a 
stamp varies from three to eight tons in 24 hours. Sometimes loose gravel is 
run through the mills to save the gold contained in the quartz pebbles, and which 
would 1)0 lost by ordinary sluicing ; but much of the cement is very compact 
and as difiicult to crush as the hardest quartz. 

The cement mills are not usually provided with the appliances foi- amalgama- 
ting and saving the gold that are now connected with the quartz mills. Quick- 
silver is used in the batteries, where the most of the gold is amalgamated, and 
after leaving the batteries the pulp passes over galvanized copper plates and 
riffles filled with quicksilver, and Avhatever gold is not saved by this process is 
lost. A much-needed improvement is an eflectual method of concentrating the 
sulphurets. These are found in considerable quantities with the cement gravel, 
and generally contain sufficient gold to yield a good profit when worked by the 
chlorination process. If machiner}', not too expensive, could be devised for 
separating them from the mass of pulp, it would add largely to the profits of the 
business. 

The working of the cement deposits, like other branches of mining, has had 
its ups and downs, but on the whole has been progressing, and the l)usiness has 
been increasing in importance since the first mill was erected in 1857. Almost 
every claim has at times paid largely, and again the receipts Avould fall below 
expenses. The gold is unevenly distributed throughout the gravel deposits, 
being found in great abundance wherever the position of the rock or other cir- 
cumstances were such as to form riffles, and in other places insufficient to pay the 
cost of drifting out the gravel. Whether the business is to increase until it 
becomes of leading importance depends on the character of the deposits that may 
hereafter be opened in the ancient river channels. A vast amount of placer mining 
ground yet remains to be opened, and should a considerable proportion of the 
gravel found therein be cemented so as to require crashing, mills will be erected 
for the purpose; otherwise it will be worked by the more economical process of 
sluicing. 

The capital invested in cement mining in Nevada county, including the mills, 
hoisting machinery, cost of opening the claims, &c., is about $400,000; number 
of men emploj-ed, 300 ; annual yield, 8300,000. These figures, given in round 
numbers, are very nearly correct, as applied to the past three years. There are 
some outside expenses, which, added to the wages of the miners, will probably 
somewhat exceed the gross yield. Some of the cement mines have paid largely, 
while others have proved failures; but the failures have not been so disastrous 
and universal as the early quartz failures. 

Extent or the Placer Mines. — The product of the placer mines of Nevada 
county has neither materially increased nor diminished since 1850, and though 
they have been worked Avithout inteiTuption for 19 years, the developments of 
that period ha\-e barely been sufficient to give us an idea of their vast extent. 
The shallow diggings, Avhich Avere so easily Avorked, and afforded such large 
returns to the early miners, are mostly exhausted ; but the deep placers, or hill 
diggings, in the channels of ancient streams, in many places underlying hundreds 
of feet of alluvial deposits and volcanic material, cannot be exhausted for a long 
period of time. In fact, for all practical pm'poses, they may be considered as 
inexhaustible. 

The long gravel ranges, extending from the high Sierra to the foot hills, cover 
nearly half the surface area of the country, for the most part are auriferous, and 
in places are of great depth. Gold in greater or less quantities is found from 
the surface down, in some places sufficient to pay nmning expenses; but for 
then- profits tl o miners mainly rely on strildng rich gravel deposits in the chan- 



124 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

nels of what once were running streams. These ancient channels are very- 
numerous, and the gravel deposits therein are of the same character as those in 
existing streams. Many of the old channels are cut transversely by others, 
showing the existence of not only one, but several ancient river systems; but 
whether the great changes on the w^estern slope of the mountains were produced 
by causes now in force, or by sudden convulsions, the facts yet brought to light 
are not sufficient to warrant us in forming a theory. The petrefactions, whicli 
are found plentifully in the deepest diggings, are the pine, oak, manzanita, and 
other varieties of w'ood now growing in the mountains, indicating that no great 
climatic or geological changes have taken place since the ancient channels were 
filled up. The filling up process may have been aided by volcanic action, 
raising the beds of rivers in places and forcing their waters into new channels. 
These new channels would, in time, wear deeply into the bed rock, and in this 
wa}^ the deep gulches, ravines, and valleys were formed. The formation of new 
valleys by the action of water left the old river channels filled with gravel and 
volcanic ashes to solidify, and become less pervious to the assaults of time than 
the primitive rock that walled them in. Myriads of ages have abraded and 
worn away the solid rock that once enclosed and towered lar above the old chan- 
nels; but the cement ridges, defying more stoutly the action of the elements, 
remain to attest their comparative indestructibility and the magnitude of natm'e's 
changes. 

Thus far the old river channel has only been opened and worked at the more 
favorable localities, where there are biwashes, or where they have been cut by 
more modern streams, as is the case in the Nevada basin. Tlie ridge between 
the South Yuba and Deer creeks is broken by two deep depressions, directly 
north of Nevada City, and a peak called Sugar Loaf Hill rises between the 
gaps. At this point the ridge curves to the west, but the ancient channel, whicli 
for some distance above follows the course of the ridge, continues its general 
southwesterl}^ direction, and makes out into the basin. Here the overlying 
strata being comparatively shallow, the channel was discovered at an early day, 
and worked by means of drifting, or burrowing, Avhence it was called tlie ^' Cayote 
Lead." Shafts Avere sunk on Bourbon, Manzanita, Wet, and American Hills, 
and the richest deposits drifted out, but the claims Avere sul)sequently bought up 
by a few companies, and the ground Avorked from the surface doAvn by the 
hydraulic. These claims yielded immensely, and the amount of gold extracted 
from the base of Sugar Loaf to the loAver Avorkings on American Hill, a little over 
a mile, is believed to have reached $7,000,000 to 88,000,000'. The amount, hoAv- 
ever cannot l)e ascertained with any degree of accuracy. Subsequently the 
channel Avas traced northeasterly under the high ridge, and Avorked out for a 
distance of 3,000 feet by the Young America, Live-oak, Nebraska, and some 
other companies of less note, and the yield of gold in that distance along the 
channel is known, hoAvever, to have exceeded $3,000,000. The channel is nearly 
parallel Avith Deer creek, though it must have carried a much larger quantity of 
Avater, and the aA^erage fall appears to have been but little over one foot in a 
hundred. The same channel Avas opened a mile above by the Harmony Company, 
Avhere the deposit Avas found to be equally rich ; but that company Avas so unfor- 
tunate as to commence operations on the north side of the ridge, Avhen the channel, 
at their location, sAveeps round to the south side, thus largely enhancing the cost 
of Avorking. x\fter taking out $70,000 at a cost of $83,000, they suspended 
operations. The most of the ground has been located for a distance of eight 
miles up the ridge, and at tAvo or three different places the channel has been 
found, and fine prospects obtained, but the operators, for the Avant of adequate 
pumping machinery, were compelled to desist. The claims of the Cold Spring 
.Company adjoin the Harmony ground above, and still further aboA^e are the 
claims of the Fountain Head Company. These companies are preparing to 
rommence operations under favorable auspices. The evidence .'s conclusive 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 125' 

that tlie channel extends a considerable distance np the mountains, perhaps 20 
or 25 miles, and there is no reason to doubt that every 1,000 feet of its length 
holds its million of treasure. Besides this, large quantities of gold are found in 
the smaller channels that were probably once tributaries of the main streams, as 
well as in the alkivium above. The rich hydraulic diggings at Gold Hill, 
Alpha, Omega, and other places, now mostly Avorked out, are on this range. 

The most ^extensive placer mining field in the county, and perhaps in the 
State, is the ridge between the Middle and South Yuba, cjubracing the town- 
shi]-)s of Bridgeport, Bloomfield, and Em-eka. This ridge is about 30 miles 
in length, and from six to eight in width, forming an area of about 200 square 
miles. The more elevated portion is covered by a volcanic formation ; but in 
the lower portions, in Bloomfield and Bridgeport townships, the volcanic material 
has been worn away, leaving the ground in a more favorable condition for 
hydraulic operations, which is now being improved at North San Juan, and other 
places already referred to. Professor Silliman, and M. Laur, a French engineer 
of mines, have described this ridge, and made some curious estimates of the 
amount of gold contained therein. Laur estimates that the region under, con- 
sideration, worked at a rate which would yield $12,000,000 of gold annual!}^, 
would be exhausted only after a period of 524 years, which would give as the gold 
product over six thousand millions of dollars. This estimate, however, is based 
on tlie supposition that the entire gravel range is equally as rich as the claims 
which he examined.* The more moderate estimate of Professor Silliman gives 

* The Lake Company distributes water to several hundred workings, among which I will 
choose, for illustration, that of the "Eureka claim," near the little village of San Juan. la 
the Eureka claim, the gravel bed is 135 feet deep, or about 43 metres. The first 22 metres 
from the surface are a rather poor but easily washed sand ; the 18 metres below are a very 
coarse gravel, richer, but quite difficult to disintegrate. The working, therefore, is carried 
on under conditions of some difficulty. 

The working district has been controlled by a "bed rock tunnel" or drain-gallery, cut for 
a great distance into very hard granite, at the rate of 40 francs the running foot, (about 700 
francs a metre,) giving a total cost of 140,000 francs. The claim is still in full activity. 

The working is carried on by four jets (Vcau, discharging together about 25,000 litres of 
water a minute under a pressure of 43 metres. These jets (Vcau break up the gravel against 
which they are directed, and the current carries off the mud and stones into the sluices in the 
drain-gallery, where the gold is deposited. 

Four men are sufficient to direct this work, which is carried on for two weeks, say ten 
working days of eight hours each. At the expiration of this time the washing down of fresh 
earth is stopped, the sluices are Avashed, and the gold is taken up. 

During this period often days 28,080 cubic metres of gravel are worked over, removing 
the auriferous deposit over a superficies of 620 square metres. The charges for working are 
as follows : 

Francs. 

Expenses of water 5, 000 

Manual labor 864 

Sundries, about ■ 500 

Total 6,364 



The gold taken from the sluices at the end of this period brings an average of 30,000 
francs. This yield increases to 80,000 and 100,000 francs, when the working has been con- 
fined exclusively to the lower portions of the gravel. 

These results show the value of gold extracted from one of these California alluvial mines ; 
they biing out especially the great progress on working and the small amount of human labor 
in this new method of washing. In fact, estimating the cost of a miner's wages at ihe uniform 
rate of 20 francs, the expense of manual labor necessary for working one cubic metre of gravel 
by the several methods hitherto employed is as follows, viz : 

Ft. Cent's. 

By the pan about 75 00 

Bytherocker " 20 00 

By the "long tom" " 5 00 

By the sluice " 1 71 

By the new method (hydraulic washing) " 28 

Let us suppose the workings now actually open on the ridge of land which I have taken 



126 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

the area, of the phices where gravel deposits have been -u-orked on this ridge as 
equal to fifteen square miles, and its proliable yield in gold is estimated at 
6-544,610,000. In this estimate the gravel deposits underlying the volcanic 
formations were not taken into account. These are known in many places to 
be rich, l)ut in most cases can only be reached at considerable cost.* The Mount 
Zion Company has been engaged for eleven years in an enterprise to open the 
ground under the cement ridge near Snow Point. They commenced operations 
on the South Yuba side and ran a tunnel to the centre of the hill, where they 
found rich gravel ; but the tiuinel proved to be higher than the bed of the chan- 
nel, and was of no service in working the ground. The}^ then started another 
tunnel on a lower level, which, after several years' labor, is now nearly com- 
pleted. The Kentucky Companj^, encouragecl by the prospects obtained in the 
claims of the Mount Zion Company, commenced a vertical shaft last spring, near 
Snow Point, with the view of sinking to the bed rock. After sinking 108 feet 
through lava cement, they reached the alluvial deposit, and the enterprise is still 
in progress. The cost, and length of time required to realize returns, have a 
tendency to discourage miners from embarking in such undertakings, though 
they may feel certain that the gold is there. 

The Chalk MouNTAi:Nr Range, lying mostly between Bear river and Green- 
horn creek, on the southerly border of the county, is another mining Held of immense 
prospective value. The average elevation of the ridge is somewhat greater than 
either of the others in the county, and the higher portion is covered with lava 
and basaltic rocks. At the southwesterly extremity, near Red Dog and You Bet, 
and along the margins of the ridge, where the volcanic covering has been worn 
away, the auriferous gravel has been worked by the hydraulic, and in most places 
yielded excellent returns ; but by far the larger portion of the ground will have 

as an example, to be replaced by one hundred areas equal in importance to the Eureka claim. 
Tbe.se one hundred hypothetical districts would be precisely equivalent to all those now 
existing' ; for, according to the preceding indications, it would absorb all the water brought 
by the Lake Company, as docs this. The richness of the gravel, taken in its total mass, 
being assumed to be nearly uninterrupted, the yield of gold would be in both cases sensibly 

Now, the dcinal Avorking of the Eureka, after a year, equivalent to 200 days' effective labor, 
brings a value in gold of 3,OOOX~OO^GOO,000 francs. After an equal period the one hundred 
openings supposed would have brought in 60,000,000 francs, and would have removed the 
auriferous deposit over an extent of 1,240,000 square metres. 

But the total superficies of the deposit being at least 650,000,000 square metres, we see that 
this total gold-producing area, yielding $60,000,000 of gold annually, would be exhausted 
only after a period of 524 years. 

The placer to which the preceding indications refer is certainly one of those where the pro- 
duction of gold is most perfectly organized and most active ; but its extent, which is 650 
square kilometres, is unimportant in connection with the total extent of the analogous deposits 
which arc ibuud scattered over the superficies of 10,000 square kilometres which forms the 
auriferous zone of California. An increase of the aica worked over, and a consequent iiii_i'ease 
of production from this class of deposits, is possible everywhere, within limits, in the gold 
regions of California. — Memoir dc la Production des Mctana Prccieux en Californie. Rap- 
port d son Excellence M. le Minislrc des Travaux Publics. Par P. Laur, Ingenieur au Corps 
Imperial drs Mines, Paris, 1862. 8vo. pp. 132. 

*Mi". Black estimates the length of the mining claims of the present, supplied with water 
by the Middle Yuba Canal Company, at five miles, with an average width of 850 yards, and 
an average depth of 40 yards, making a quantity of 123,000,000 of cubic yards of auriferous 
gravel. He also estimates that eight per cent, of this quantity has been worked away in the 
past 12 years, leaving ] 13,000,000 of cubic yards which remain for future operations. At an 
average of 34 cents of gold to the cubic yard, (the average of the Yuba region appears to be 
from 30 cents to 45 cents per cubic yard, saved in the hydraulic process,) the volume of 
auriferous gravel here estimated would yield over $38,000,000. But the total area of the 
various places where gravel deposits have been worked on this ridge is estimated by Mr. 
Black as equal to 15 square miles, all of which, and much more, is controlled by the water 
of the Eureka Lake Company, or of the Middle Yuba canal. If this area is estimated at an 
average of 40 yards in depth, (it varies from 80 to 200 and 250 feet in depth,) wo shall have 
1,815,936,000 cubic yards of gravel, and if this be estimated to yield only 30 cents per yard 
we reach the grand aggregate of !p544,61t»,000 as its probable yield of gold. — Professor Silli- 
ma7t's Report on the Deep-bjing Placers, March, 1865. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 127 

to he worked by drifting', either by means of deep shafts or extensive tunnels. 
The ridge extends nearly to the summit of the Sierra, but is divided by the valley 
of Bear river, 15 miles above Red Dog, which cuts through it nearly at right 
angles, making a deep depression, the hills rising to the height of 600 or 800 
feet on each side of the valley. Three miles below Bear valley^ on the south- 
easterly side, the deep gorge of Steep Hollow has cut down through the volcanic 
and gravel formations to the bed rock, showing the thickness of the overlyging 
mass to be at least a thousand feet. The Chalk Mountain Blue Gravel Com- 
pany made extensive locations on the ridge in the spring of 18G6, and has since 
been engaged in making explorations under the superintendence of S. N. Strana- 
han. An incline shaft was sunk at the southwesterly end of the coiupany's ground, 
into the body of the mountain, going down on the red gravel, under the pipe- 
chiy. Their explorations revealed a well-defined ancient river channel, the rim 
rock rising to a considerable height on each side. The course of the stream was 
nearly southwest, and evidences of an old river channel have been found at Steep 
Hollow and Bear valley, which is believed to be the same. For the past six 
months a mining company has been engaged in sinking a vertical shaft at Bear 
valley, and at a depth of a little over a hundred feet they strack a deposit of gravel 
and boulders, evidently made by a running stTcam, having a southwesterly course. 
Whenever explorations have been made in this region, the dififerent strata are 
found in the following order : The blue cement gravel, in which the gold is very 
unevenly distributed, is found only in the channels of the ancient streams. Over 
this is a deep bed of loose, gold-bearing gravel, of a reddish color, and this is 
covered bj^ a deep layer of pipe-clay. This is what is tenned the hj'draulic 
ground, the principal '^ pay" being in the red gravel. At higher elevations on 
the ridge, the lower section is exactly the same, but with two adchtional stratifi- 
cations. Above the pipe-clay is a deep deposit of conglomerate boulders, and 
above this a bed. of lava or basaltic rocks. The bed rock is uneven, and in 
many places rises into the pipe-clay and cuts off the red gravel ; but wherever 
this deposit is found, and the overlying mass is not too deep, it invariably pays 
for hydraulicing. There is a vast quantity of this ground to be worked, but to 
open a claim usually requires the labor of several miners for two or three years. 
Deep cuts have to be made in the bed rock, or long tunnels run, to obtain suffi- 
cient fall for a sluiceway to ran ofi' the earth. 

Another gravel range dividing the waters of Greenhorn and Deer creeks, passing 
Nevada on the north and Grass Valley on the south, extends westerly through 
the county to the foot-hills, terminating at Smartsvillc, in Yuba count}", where 
some of the best mines in the State are situated. The elevation of this ridge is 
less than either of the others described, and the ground in many places has been 
worked successfully by the hydraulic. At the Alta shaft, sunk on this range 
near Grass Valley, an immensely rich deposit of gravel was discovered in the 
bed of an ancient stream, which afforded large profits to the owners of the claim. 
It is believed by some that a continuous channel extends the length of the ridge 
from which came the rich surface diggings at Rough and Ready that were Avorked 
out at an early day. JMuch of this range will not pay for working with the 
present appliances for mining, and at rates now charged for water ; but with 
further improvements in the art of mining, and perhaps the cheapening of water 
and the cost of living, it is probable that the most of it will eventually be worked. . 

No estimate approaching to accuracy can be made of the amount of gold con- 
tained in the placer mines of this county, and which yet may be brought forth 
for the benefit of the civilized world. To say that it is enough to pay off the 
national debt would be a moderate estimate, and it is not improbable that in 
some of these deep placers, deposits of gold may yet be found in such quantities 
as will materially diminish the value of the metal. But to extract it from the 
vast accumulations of debris in which it is hidden will cost thousands of miners 



128 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

centuries of toil. Some of the workers, more lucky than tlieir fellows, will 
strike valuable deposits, aud become suddenly enriched, while the majority, as 
has alwaj^s been the case, will toil on in poverty. The hope of rich strikes is 
the great incentive to the miner to persevere, but the risk, which is always con- 
siderable in mining" operations, even when the best judgment is exercised, has a 
tendency to deter capital from embarking in the business. 

QuAKTZ Mixing. — In the mining and working of gold-bearing quartz, as in 
most other branches of mining, Nevada county has taken the lead, and is far in 
advance of other sections of the gold region. It was not until the spring of 1850, 
when the placer mines had been worked two seasons, that attention was directed 
to the quartz veins as the matrix in which the gold was originally formed, and 
the sources from which that found in the surlace diggings was derived. The 
early settlers, and those who first rushed to California on the announcement of 
the discovery of gold, had no knowledge of vein mining, and were too much 
absorbed in collecting the precious particles which were found mixed with the 
gravel on the bars and in the beds of the streams to give any attention to the 
sources whence they came. The discovery of gold imbedded in quartz pebbles 
led to an examination of the lodes, and some quartz locations were made early in 
the spring of 1850. 

The first quartz location in Nevada county, of which we now have any inform- 
ation, was made at Gold Hill, near Grass Valley. This was in June, 1850. 
Quartz was discovered at Massachusetts Hill soon after, and in October of the 
same year the Gold Tunnel lode was located at Nevada. The latter was dis- 
covered by four young men from Boston, Avhile engaged in their first day's work 
at mining. A few other locations were made the same season, both at Grass 
Valley and Nevada, but the three above named have become especially famous 
for their immense yield of gold, amounting in the aggregate to nearly doable the 
present assessed property valuation of the county. The first mill in the county 
was erected by two Germans, at Boston ravine, near Grass Valley, in the winter 
of 1850-51. It was a rude aflair, and of course was a failure. 

In 1851 there was a great quartz excitement in this county. The shallow 
surface diggings were beginning, to show signs of exhaustion, or at least were 
not so readily found as in the preceding years, and prospectors were running over 
the hills in search of lodes. Numerous mills were projected, and during the fall 
aud winter eight or ten were erected at Nevada, and as many more at Grass 
Valley. All the Nevada mills, with the exception of the Gold Tunnel, and the 
most of those at Grass Valley, proved disastrous failures, and in 1853 the quartz 
interest Avas completely prostrated. With our present experience in quartz mining, 
we can readil^y perceive the causes of the early failures in the business. The 
mills were erected at enormous expense, in many cases the projectors paying an 
extortionate interest for money ; they had been deceived by professed assay ers, 
or had deceived themselves as to the amount of gold contained in the quartz; 
the appliances for amalgamating were of the rudest description, and there were 
no miners in the county who knew how to open and work a quartz vein. 

At Grass Valley, where some eastern and English capital had been invested, 
a number of companies continued operations, several mills were kept ninning, 
and the business slowly revived. But at Nevada, where the failures had been 
more decided, the business was almost entirely abandoned, and the miners turned 
their attention to the hill diggings, then j list beginning to be prospected. The Gold 
Tunnel mill was kept in operation, and yielded good returns, but for several 
years the dependence of the population was almost entirely on the placer mines. 
The few companies that continued operations, however, were measurably suc- 
cessful, their mines at times paying largely, and this was an inducement for 
others to resume work on their lodes, particularly at seasons of the year when 
water could not l)e procured to work the placer mines. By 1857 the Grass 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 129 

Valley mines were in quite a flourishing' condition, and continued to prosper for the 
tliree or four succeeding years, becoming the leading interest of the town, while 
at Nevada the business steadily improved. 

The development of the quartz interest, however, was destined to meet another 
reverse, though by no means so disastrous and discouraging as that of 1852-53. 
The discovery of silver in Washoe was first made public in this county in the 
summer of 1859, and quite a number of om* most energetic quartz operators hast- 
ened to the new mining field. The wonderful richness of the Comstock lod'J 
was fully determined that fall, and the next spring witnessed the exodus of many 
of our best working miners, Avho abandoned their claims here for what appeared 
to be the more promising field of enterprise east of the Sierra Nevada mountains. 
For three years there was a constant drain of population and capital from the 
county — the capital, especially, being much needed in the development of our 
own mines. Added to this drain upon our resources, the most of the best-paying 
mines in Grass Valley were flooded during the severe winter of 18Gl-'62, requir- 
ing many months to place them again in working condition, during which time 
there were no returns and the expenses were heavy. From these causes Inisiness 
was greatly de])ressed and property depreciated very materially in value, espe- 
cially at Grass Valley and Nevada, In 1864 the adventm'crs who had left for 
distant mining regions began to return, satisfied that this county presented the 
best field for mining enterprise on the coast. As a consequence, the quartz 
business speedily revived, and at the present time Grass Valley is the most pros- 
perous mining town in the State, her prosperity being due entii'ely to the sur- 
rounding quartz mines. 

Without taking into account the temporary drawbacks, the quartz business- has 
been improving since ] 853, and the yield of gold from that source has steadily 
increased. The successful operations have in nearly all cases been conducted 
by practical miners, who learned the business here, and who have discovered and 
brought into use all the improved methods of mining and reducing the ore, and 
amalgamating and collecting the gold. Very little foreign capital has been 
invested in our mines, although there is not a mining region in the world that 
offers better inducements for judicious investment. The comparatively small 
amount that has been invested by capitalists in this county has, in most cases, 
been in dividend-paying mines, and, of course, was no assistance in developing 
our resources. At no period since the wild speculations of 1852 has quartz 
mining been in more favor than at present, or the prospects more flattering. 

There are in the county fovu' distinct quartz-mining districts, in different stages, 
of development, viz : Grass Valley, Nevada, Eureka, and Meadow Lake. 

Grass Valley District. — The Grass Valley district is, beyond question,, 
the most important and prosperous quartz-mining region of California. The 
mines have been worked uninterruptedly since 1852, and, though there have 
been many failures, and some of the best mines have at times been temporarily 
abandoned, yet the miners persevered, until the business is now established on 
a firm basis. It is not possible at present to obtain accurate statistics of the gold 
product of the Grass Valley mines, but, from the best information that can bo 
obtained, the yield, up to the beginning of the present year, is estimated to have 
exceeded $25,000,000.* The lodes of the district are naiTow — some of those 
which have been most productive not averaging over a foot in width — and the 
bed-rock, or what is called by vein miners th,e '^ country" rock, is mostly green- 
stone and slate. The lodes run in every direction, though the principal mines 
which have been opened and Avorked usually approximate an east and west or 
north and south com'se. The average yield of the Grass Valley mines has been 
variously estimated at from $20 to $35 a ton ; but the higher estimates have 

* Professor Silliman, in his report of March, 1865, estimated the entire yield as then exceed- 
ing 123,000,000. 

9 



130 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

undoubtedly lieen based on the yield of the best-paying mines, examined by 
scientific gentlemen and passing strangers, who have written on the subject, and 
who had no knowledge of the large amount of rock worked at Grass Valley, 
which scarcely paid for hauling and crushing. Taking all the rock worked in 
the district, $20 a ton would be a fair estimate for the average yield. The cost 
of mining the rock depends on the size and situation of the lode and the char- 
acter of the enclosing rock. With a lode of two to three feet in width, which 
can be worked by means of tunnels, the cost of extracting the vein-stone may 
not exceed $1 or $2 a ton ; but where the vein is small and enclosed in blasting 
rock, and steam has to be used for hoisting and pumping, the cost sometimes 
reaches $20 and $30. The charges for reducing ore at the custom mills range 
from #2 50 to $5 a ton, depending on the character of the ore, the amount fur- 
nished, &c. 

The Eureka Mrs'E, now regarded as the most valuable gold mine in the 
count}^, and perhaps the most valuable in the world, is situated a mile and a quarter 
northeast of the town of Grass Valley, and was located early in 1851. It was 
worked at inten^als, by various parties, up to 1857, but the most of the rock 
failed to pay for crushing. In the latter j^ear it was piu'chased by Messrs. Fricot, 
Ripert, and Pralus, and the first crushing made by them ; the rock, being taken 
from near the surface, yielded only $i a ton. From 1857 to 1863, the mine was 
worked to a perpendicular depth of 50 feet, during which a large quantity of 
quartz was taken out, none of which paid largel}^, and the greater portion failed 
to pay expenses. Becoming satisfied, at length, that the mine was a good one, 
they sank a vertical shaft, in 1863, to the depth of 100 feet, and the mine has 
since been yielding handsome returns. On the 1st of October, 1865, the mine 
was sold to a company of capitalists for $400,000 in gold coin. How much it 
had yielded up to that time is not kno^vii, but the owners erected hoisting works 
and a 20-stamp mill, all at a cost of $60,000, besides receiving large dividends 
from the profits. The mine has been producing, under the present management, 
at the rate of about $49,000 a month. The first year, ending September 30, 
1866, the gross product was $531,431, and for the eleven months ending August 
31, 1867, $588,139, making a total of $1,119,570 in 23 months. Nearly a thou- 
sand tons of rock have been taken from the mine every month and reduced at the 
mill, the average yield being not far from $50 a ton ; and the monthly expenses, 
including repairs to machinery and permanent improvements, have averaged about 
$16,000. The regular monthly dividends for over a year past have amounted to 
$30,000, and one or two extra dividends have been declared in addition. The 
Eureka mine is opened b}^ an incline shaft, 5 by 20 feet, which is designed to 
explore the vein to a great depth, and is now down nearly 500 feet. Levels have 
been run from the shaft at distances of 100 feet apart, and for 700 feet along the 
lode. At 50 feet from the surface the quartz paid $15 a ton, and increased to 
$28 at 100 feet. Between the 100 and 200-feet levels the average yield was 
$37 a ton, and below that the average has been $50. The vein runs nearly east 
and west, dipping south at an angle of about 78°; and over the whole extent of 
some 700 feet which has been worked the average width is about three feet. 
At the fourth level the mine is said to show still further improvement, with 
an increase in the yield of ore, though it has been worked but little below the 
third level. The value of the mine, with the mill, hoisting works, and other 
property connected therewith, is now rated at about $1,000,000. William Watt, a 
successful quartz miner and one of the owners of the Eureka, is the superintendent. 
The Gold Hill Mixe, the first discovered at Grass Valley, was worked by 
various companies, and with little inteiTuption, for a period of 14 years, yielding 
in that time, according to popular belief, $4,000,000. At times the mine paid 
enormously, the quartz being fairly knit together with gold, and again the receipts 
would fall below expenses, the gold being found in "pockets," and apparently 
distributed through the vein stone in the most capricious manner. The mine was 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 131 

worked to the depth of 300 feet on the slope of the lode, and for a length of 600 
or 800 feet, but the upper levels are now niostl}^ filled up and inaccessible. The 
vein is verj^ irregular and crooked, and perhaps does not average over a foot in 
width. The work on the mine was suspended in September, 1865, but opera- 
tions have lately been resumed, with fair prospects. 

The Massachusetts Hill Mine, Avhich is believed to be identical with that 
on Gold Hill, was worked by different companies up to 1866, yielding in that time 
over $3,000,000. The working of this mine was attended with more than the 
usual vicissitudes of gold-mining, some of the companies failing most disas- 
trously, and others realizing large profits. The failure of the Mount Hope com- 
pany, working the mine from 1856 to 1858, was the occasion of a most shocking 
tragedy. Michael Brennan, the superintendent, having hopelessly involved the 
company, murdered his wife and three children and then committed suicide. 
The deed was committed on the 21st of Febraar}", 1858. The mine passed 
into other hands, and a year or two later a large body of rich ore was struck 
within a few feet of where Brennan had abandoned work in despair. 

The Ophir Hill Mike is situated a mile southeast of Grass Valley, and was 
located in 1851. The original owners worked the mine a year or two, when 
they failed, and the property was sold at auction, the purchasers organizing as 
the Empire Company. This company erected a six-stamp mill, and worked the 
mine from May, 1854, to Sejitember, 1S63, the jaeld in that time amounting to 
$1,056,234. The property was then sold to other parties, Captain S. W. Lee, 
one of the pm'chasers, taking charge, and work was resumed in April, 1865. 
The product of the mine from that period up to June of the present j-ear was 
$286,082, making a total yield in 13 years of $1,342,316. The amount of 
quartz worked is estimated at 37,840 tons, giving an average yield of over $35 
a ton. The present company have erected a magnificent 20-stamp mill at a cost 
of nearly $100,000. It is the finest quartz mill in the State, but the mine is 
not yet sufficiently opened to keep it constantly employed. The mill, hoisting 
works, and other machinery and property of the company, with the drain tunnel 
and other permanent improvements on the mine, has cost some $250,000. The 
Ophir lode runs nearly north and south, and dips westerly at the low angle of 
27 degrees. The lode is not large, averaging, perhaps, not over 18 inches in 
width, but it has been explored by levels for a distance of 900 feet along its 
course, showing a continuation of rich ore for that distance. 

The Noeth Stab Mine has been worked with varied results since 1852, chang- 
ing hands several times, once under a forced sale. This mine is perhaps more 
thoroughly opened than any other in the county, an incline shaft having been 
sunk on the slope of the vein to the depth of 750 feet, and levels run along its 
course nearly 1,000 feet. In the five years ending in January, 1867, the 
net earnings of the mine amounted to more than $500,000, and in the early part 
of this year the net profits were reported at $12,000 a month. On this repre- 
sentation the mine was sold to San Francisco capitalists for $450,000, of which 
$250,000 was paid down, and the remainder was to have been paid from one-half 
the net profits. But the receipts for the first two or three months, imder the new 
administration not coming up to the reiiresentations, the sellers released the pur- 
chasers from further payments. 

The Allison Ranch Lode, which for many years ranked as the leading mine 
in the State, was discovered in 1855, and worked with continued success over 11 
years. It yielded in that period $2,300,000 in gold bullion. In working the 
mine rich bodies of ore were encountered which paid $100 and $200 a ton, with 
poorer rock between that scarcely paid the cost of working. An examination of 
the books of the company shows the average yield of all the rock worked to 
have been $50, the rock taken from the mine and crushed amounting to 46,000 
tons. The mine has been worked to a depth of over 500 feet, and for nearly 
1,000 feet along its course. The vein has been an expensive one to work, on 



132 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

account of the large quantity of water tliat liad to be raised and the hardness 
of the enclosins: rock ; but probably not less than two-thirds of the gross pro- 
ceeds were divided as profits among the owners. Owing to a want of agree- 
ment in the management the work in the mine was suspended at the beginning 
of the present year. 

There are many other ualuable mines in the district, some of which are now 
or have been paying regular dividends to the owners. Among these may be 
mentioned the New York Hill mine, which has been worked at inten^als since 
1852, and produced not less than $500,000 ; the Wisconsin, from which Avas 
taken, in 1866, 1,400 tons of ore that yielded an average of $51 a ton; the 
Hartery, which has yielded over $250,000 ; the Norambagua, a vein not exceeding 
an average width of five inches, but which yielded over $80,000 in 1866; the 
Houston Hill mine, which yielded over $500,000 in the past three years, and 
paid good profits, although the cost of extracting and reducing the ore amounts 
to some $40 a ton ; the Osbom Hill mine, which was producing large returns at 
a time when the quartz interest of the district was supposed to be on the wane ; 
the Lone. Jack, which has produced over $500,000; the Cambridge mine, on 
Howard Hill, and the claim of the Lucky Conrpany on the same lode, which 
have been opened at great cost and are regarded as promising mines, though at 
present idle on account of disagreements among the owners ; the Union Hill 
mine, and the adjoining mine of Wm. O'Connor Sydney, which is now being 
opened and explored in the most systematic manner and without regard to 
expense ; besides numerous others in the district which would be tiresome to 
sketch in detail. 

There are now some 30 dividend-paying mines in the district; 28 quartz mills, 
having an aggregate of 300 stamps, and the capital invested in the mills, hoisting 
works, and other machinery, and in the opening of the mines which may now 
be considered as available, is about $2,000,000. The number of men employed 
in the mills and mines is about 1,600, and the yield of the mines in 1866 was 
$2,000,000, in round numbers — an average of $1,250 for each man. The pro- 
duct of the district will probably be somewhat less the present year than in 
1866, on account of the suspension of work in the Allison Ranch and some other 
mines, but the falling ofl" will be only temporarj^, as the mines are too valuable 
to remain idle for any great length of time. 

Nevada Quartz District. — The Nevada quartz district includes the town- 
ship of that name, though the most of the gold-bearing lodes are situated in the 
Nevada basin, forming an area of eight or ten square miles. The primitive rock 
in the basin is a soft granite, encircled by a slate formation on the east, south, 
and west. Numerous quartz lodes, both in the granite and surrounding slate, 
have been opened and worked more or less — the general course of the veins being 
a little east of south and north of west, and the most of them having an easterly 
dip at various angles. Some are nearly perpendicular, and others descend at a 
low angle, the more usual dip being about 35 or 40 degrees. At the southwest- 
erly end of the granite formation are a number of parallel veins, having the same 
general course, but dip westerly. The most noted of these are the Sneath and 
Clay and the Mohawk. All the lodes in the district which showed any surface 
croppings were located in 1851, during the first quartz excitement, and it being 
then imderstood that they were the sources from which the placer gold was 
derived, the most extravagant expectations were formed as to their prosjiective 
yield. Mills were erected at great expense, and a large amount of ill-directed 
labor was expended in endeavoring to open the veins; but, with two or three 
exceptions, the enterprises were failures, and quartz was very generally pro- 
nounced a humbug. 

The Gold Tunnel Mine, situated west of Nevada Oit}^, but mostly in the cor- 
poration limits, was the only one in the district in which operations were continued 
without interruption. This was the first gold-bearing lode discovered in the dis- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 133 

trict, and the discoverers worked it for a time by washing the decomposed quartz 
in a rocker, realizing large profits. In the spring of 1851 a tunnel was started 
on the lode, and the following summer a six-stamp mill was erected on Deer 
creek, near the mouth of the tunnel, to crush the rock. From 1852 to 1855 the 
mine was worked by E. W. Kidd, who owned a controlling interest, and in the 
latter year the property, including the mill and mine, Avas sold to a company 
of Cornish miners. Up to this time the mine has yielded over $300,000 in gold, 
the rock paying on an average $50 a ton, though worked in a mill that would 
not now be used. The Cornishmen worked the mine over eight years, suspend- 
ing operations in 1863, but the yield during that period is not known. A con- 
tinuous body of rich ore extended from the mouth of the tunnel at Deer creek 
for a distance of 600 feet north ; beyond that the rock contains gold, but not in 
suflicient quantities to pay for working. The vein has never been Worked below 
the level of Deer creek, but there is no doubt that it will eventually be opened 
to great depth, and worked again with profit. 

The Illii^ois aijd California Claims, situated on the gold tunnel lode south 
of Deer creek, have been worked at intervals since 1851, and at times have paid 
largely. In 1866 the Eagle Company purchased the California claim, erected 
hoisting works and a 10-stamp mill, and expended a large amount in sinking an 
incline shaft and exploring the vein. Considerable rock was taken from the 
mine and crushed, but it did not yield in accordance with the anticipations of 
the company, and recently the work was suspended. It is understood that opera- 
tions W'ill soon be resumed. 

The Banner Mine is situated three miles east of Nevada City, and is a com- 
paratively recent location. Some work has been done on it in 1860-'61 by two 
different companies, but the indications being imfavorable, they abandoned it. 
It was relocated in 1864 by the parties from whom the present owners derive 
their title, and the first crushing yielded only four or five dollars a ton. After a 
suspension of some months they took out another crushing, -which yielded near 
$20 a ton, and this gave the mine a good reputation, which it has ever since sus- 
tained. With two or three temporary interruptions, the mine has been worked 
from June, 1865, up to the present time. The lode runs nearly north and south, 
dips to the east at an angle of about 50°, and is opened by an incline shaft sunk 
to the depth of 350 feet on the slope of the vein. Four levels have been run 
in each direction from the shaft, the upper one being 60 feet from the surface, 
the next 60 feet deeper, and tbe other two at distances of 100 feet. Two 
''chimneys" of rich rock, or "ore shoots," as they are connnonly called by the 
miners, have been found in the lode, both of which rapidly widen with the depth. 
At the first level, 60 feet below the surface, the large ore chute extends along 
the course of the lode only about 100 feet; but at the third level, 160 feet deeper, 
it has a breadth along the lode of 225 feet. North of the main ore chute another 
body of rich quartz has been struck, which has a breadth of 40 feet at the second 
level and 75 feet at the third level. If they continue their course they will come 
together at the fourth level, thus affording continuous rich ore for a distance of 
about 500 feet along the lode. Outside of the ore chutes the quartz pays only 
SB or $10 a ton, barely suflicient to cover the expenses of mining and reducing 
it. Up to the 1st of January, 1866, 5,000 tons of rock had been taken from the 
mine and reduced, yielding an average of about $19 a ton. From the 1st of 
January to the 1st of September, of the present year, the yield has been $76,000 
fi'om 3,000 tons of rock worked, an average of $25 33 a ton. The vein is of 
good size, being from three to four feet in width, and is now yielding from 30 to 
40 tons of quartz daily. The owners have a 20-stamp mill convenient to the 
mine, and besides keeping this 'employed, they ai-e having considerable quartz 
worked at custom mills. 

The Pittsbueg Mine, more commonly known as the " Wigham," is situated 
a mile and a half southeast of Nevada City, on the slope of the hill descending 



134 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

into the basin. It was located in 1851 for a Pittsburg mining company, by R. 
S. Wigliam, wlio erected a mill the same season, but the enterprise was among 
the earl}' quartz failures. The property finally fell into the hands of Merritt & 
Sourn, of San Francisco, who still retain it. The mine was worked on a lease 
in 1855, and again in 1857, but with indifferent success. In 1862 it was leased 
to Weeks & Thomas, who, in the course of 15 months, took out 3,700 tons of 
quartz, which yielded at the mill an average of $22 a ton, and the profits to the 
lessees amounted to near $40,000. The mine was then idle until January, 186G, 
when the owners made arrangements for further explorations. Another level wat 
opened, and in the course of the year the mine yielded $102,000 from 1,700 tons 
of rock — an average of $60 a ton. A mill and first-class hoisting works were 
erected last spring, and started in operation about the 1st of June, but we have 
no report of the yield for this season. At the upper level the ore chute extended 
only about 50 feet along the lode ; but in the lower level, 380 feet on the slope 
of the vein, it has a breadth of 400 feet. The average width of the vein is about 
two feet, and the country rock is slate. The Wigham and the Banner are the 
leading quartz mines of Nevada district at the present time. 

TnE Miif E OF THE Nevada Quaktz Mining Company, commonly known as 
the " Soggs" mine, is situated a mile west of Nevada City, and is a parallel vein 
with the Gold Tunnel. The lode was located at an early day, but no successful 
effort was made to develop it until 1857. A rich chimney having been discovered 
by the owners, they made arrangements for the erection of an eight-stamp steam 
mill to work the mine. This was run two or three years successful] j', when it 
was taken down, and the owners put up a new 12-stamp water mill on Deer 
creek, and the mine has been worked, Avith one or two brief interruptions, for 10 
years. About 5,000 tons of rock have annually been taken from the mine and 
crushed at the mill, the gross receipts ranging from $40,000 to $70,000 a year. 
During the year 1866, according to a statement furnished by William M. Rat- 
clifF, the superintendent, the amount of rock crushed was a fraction under 5,000 
tons, which yielded at the mill $42,000; while the returns from sulphuret ore 
shipped to Swansea and concentrated sulpliurets netted $8,000. The average 
yield of all the rock crushed has been about $13 a ton, yet the owners have at 
times derived large dividends from the working of the mine, and, with the excep- 
tion of the construction account of the first mill, but one assessment has been 
levied, and that only for a trifling amount. The lode is one of the largest in tlie 
district, though very irregular, ranging from a mere seam to 16 feet in width, and 
averaging about four feet. It is opened by three timnels, starting in above the 
mill and rimning north. The length of the upper tunnel is 2,900 feet, and the 
other two about 1,900 feet each. The rock is taken from the mine in cars and 
dumped in front of the stamps, thus saving the cost of hauling ; and having a 
large lode, and the advantage of water-power to run the mill, the owners have 
been enabled to work a low grade of ores with profit. 

The Sneath and Clay Mine, situated a mile southeast of Nevada Cit}^, was 
discovered in the spring of 1862, and several lots of the quartz crushed dming 
the next sinnmer yielding good returns, the locaters erected a mill, which was 
started in operation about April, 1863. For a time the rock yielded largely, 
the gross product in two years being $180,000, of which over half was clear 
profit ; but the owners were unable to agree in the management, and having 
worked out the opened levels the property was sold in May, 1865, to a New 
York company for $27,000. The mill and hoisting works had cost $45,000. 
The New York company opened two additional levels, which having been worked 
out to the extent of the pay ore, the work was suspended in the summer of 1867. 
The mine it? believed to be a good one, and had it been judiciously managed 
from the start, and the "dead work" kept well in advance, it might have been 
profitably worked for a long period. 

The Lecompton Mine, three miles above Nevada City, on Deer creek, was 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS 185 

located in 1858, and in the course of two years- tlio net proceeds amounted to 
$60,000, the quartz averaging S40 a ton. The gross yield of the mine up to 
1863 was $220,000, and it has been worked but little since, the pay ore above 
the level of the creek being exhausted. This lode is situated near the junction 
of the granite and slate, and cuts through from one fonnation to the other with- 
out changing its course or dip. 

There are numerous other mines in the district which have at times afforded 
large profits to the owners, but which are now idle, either from bad manage- 
ment or other causes. Among those now being worked may be mentioned the 
Cornish, the Pennsylvania, the Providence, and the ]\Iurchie, Avhich have mills 
connected therewith, and the Cunningham, Mohawk, Mattinglj-, and Harvey. 
All of these have yielded good returns, and are still Avorked with fair success. 

There are now in the Nevada district 17 quartz mills, having an aggregate 
of 137 stamps, and the capital invested in the business is about $500,000. The 
total yield of the mines in 1865 was about $'400,000 ; in 1866, according to sta- 
tistics kejjt by Wells, Fargo & Co., it W"as a fraction less than $500,000, and will 
be about the same in 1867. The number of men employed in the mines and 
mills is about 450, the gross jdeld being equal to $1,100 for each man. A con- 
siderable proportion of the quartz miners are either prospecting or engaged in 
opening veins, which are not now productive. 

EuKEKA Quartz District. — Within the past year or two considerable atten- 
tion has been given to the development of the quartz lodes near the town of 
Eureka, some twenty-five miles above Nevada City. The general characteristics 
of the Eureka district resemble, in many respects, those of the Nevada district, 
the country rock being a soft granite, which can bo excavated in most places 
without the aid of powder, and the course of the veins being east of south and 
west of north, corresponding with the mountain range. This quartz belt crosses 
the South Yuba into Washington township, where the enclosing granite is hard, 
which greatly enhances the cost of working the mines. In the slate formation, 
which comes in half a mile west of the town of Eureka, there are numerous 
well-defined quartz veins, but they contain very little gold, and with one or two 
exceptions are considered valueless. 

In 1856 a quartz lode Avas located on Gaston ridge, some miles south of 
Eureka, and a mill Avas erected to Avork it a year or two later, AAdiich Avas run 
with little interruption until NoA^ember, 1863, Avhen it Avas destroyed by fire. 
In that time some 15,000 tons of quartz Avere extracted from the mine and crushed 
in the mill, yielding an average of $8 or $9 a ton. The mill Avas an inferior 
one, having no pans or other improved methods of saving the gold ; but the vein 
being large and favorably situated for AA'Orking the owners realized a small profit, 
though not sufiicient at that time to justify them in erecting a new mill. Tavo 
other mills AA'ere built in the district in 1857 ; but one Avas sold on account of a 
disagreement among the owners, and the machinery moved away ; and the other, 
after doing a fair business for tAvo or three years, Avas taken down and moved to 
Washoe at the beginning of the silver excitement. 

No further attempt was made to develop the mines of the district until the 
spring of 1866, Avhen some of the old residents, having AA'orked out then- j^lacer 
claims, and others Avho had noted the favorable indications, commenced operations 
in earnest. A couple of arrastras Avere erected near the town, run by water 
poAver, and capable of reducing three tons of quartz in 24 hours. These aiTas- 
tras have been constantly employed, have done excellent AVork, and been of groat 
advantage in prospecting and determining the value of the mines. During the 
summer and fall of 1866, Messrs. Black & Young erected a 10-stamp mill oii a 
lode situated about a mile south of town. Operations, however, Avere not fairly 
commenced on the mine until ]\Iay last, since Avhich time the mill has been run- 
ning steadily, and the quartz is yielding from $20 to $25 a ton. Two other mills 
were also built the same season, one of five stamps to Avork the Jim lode, and 



136 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tlie other of fom* stamps, intended for custom work. Two new mills are now in 
course of construction, one of 10 stamps to work the Veatch and Powell mine, 
and the otlier of five stamps on the Birchville mine. Both of these mines have 
been thoroughly prospected, are of good size, and the gold is found in paying 
(quantities very generally disseminated through the vein-stone. 

Tecumseii Mii,ls. — Some years ago two mills known as the Tecumseh and 
Star were erected in Washington township, but on the same quartz range. Con- 
siderable quartz has been worked in both mills, which yielded fair pay ; but owing 
to want of means to properly open the mines, the expense being very great on 
account of the hardness of the enclosing rock, the enterprises have not proved 
successful. The Star Company, however, is still prosecuting work, and the 
Tecumseh mill has lately been leased to parties who are prospecting other lodes. 

The Grizzly Lode, situated four miles west of Eureka, in Devil's canon, was 
]iurchased l)y the Eagle Compan}^, of Hartford, about the beginning of 1866. 
The company erected a five-stamp mill at the mine in the fall of the same year, 
T)ut being miprepared for winter work, little was done in dcvelo])ing the lode 
mitil May last, since which time the mill has been running steadily and with 
favoralde results. The vein has an average width of four feet, runs in slate, 
and is opened by tunnels. It is so situated that, with proper arrangements and 
a larger mill, $6 and $8 quartz can be worked with profit. As long ago as 1854 
a mill was erected on a lode called the National, about half way between Eureka 
and the Grizzly. This mill was run a year or more, a portion of the time being 
leased, but the yield of the quartz was not sufficient to pay with the prices then 
ruling. The work was suspended in 1856, and the mill Avas destroyed by fire 
a year or two later. The Grizzly and National are the only quartz lodes yet 
discovered in the slate formation of that region that have exhibited sufficiently 
favorable surface indications to justify an outlay of capital to develop. 

About 250 men are engaged at the present time in the quartz mines and mills 
of the Eureka district, many of whom are prospecting or working on lodes that 
are not yet productive. There are 10 mills in the district, including the two in 
Washington township, having an aggregate of 60 stamps, and the capital invested 
is estimated at $200,000. The yield of the mines for 1867, it is believed, will 
amount to $200,000. 

Meadow Lake Distkict. — The Meadow Lake quartz district is situated near 
the summit of the Sien-a Nevada, but on the western slope. It derives its name 
from a large mountain lake, used by the South Yuba Canal Company as a res- 
ervoir, a dam having been constructed across its outlet to retain the water in the 
spring, and is let out into the company's ditches as fast as needed by the miners. 
Gold-bearing quartz lodes were discovered near the lake in 1863, others the year 
following, and in 1865, some of the lodes giving indications of extraordinary 
richness, considerable excitement was created throughout California and Nevada 
State, causing a rush of adventurers to the locality. The real work of develop- 
ing the mines was not commenced until the summer of 1866, and considering the 
many disadvantages, including tlie deep snows of winter, has progressed favor- 
ably, though not, on the whole, equal to the anticipations of the first adventm-ers 
and locaters. 

The country rock of the district is sienite, and usually has to be blasted in 
making excavations ; but this disadvantage is partially compensated by the size 
of the veins, which will average considerably larger than those of Grass Valley 
and Nevada. The general direction of the lodes is northwesterly and south- 
easterlv, and they are easily traced by the dark, reddish appearance of the crop- 
pings, caused by the oxidation of the iron pyrites encased in the quartz. The 
quartz contains an unusually large proportion of sulphurets, averaging, it is said, 
20 to 25 per cent. The sulphurets yield by assay $60 to $70 a ton, and are suc- 
cessfully reduced bv the Plattner chlorination process, works for that purpose 
having been constructed in the district. Seven quartz mills have been built in 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



137 



tlie district, having in all 62 stamps. The mills,- however, have not heen nm- 
iiin<y regularly, having been erected in advance of the development of the mines. 
Of several hundred quartz veins located in the district dming the excitement in 
the summer of 1865, 50 or more have been partially developed and given indi- 
cations of value. 

The U. S. Geais'T CoMPA:NrT, whose mine is situated six miles south of Meadow 
Lake, and within four miles of the line of the Central Pacific railroad, has been 
the most successful of any in the district. The owners of the mine have kept 
a live-stamj) mill running most of the time during the past ^-ear, and the quartz 
Avorked has paid largely. They are now building a larger mill, while the Avork 
of developing the mine is continued. The Golden Eagle, Mohawk, Montreal, 
California, and Excelsior companies have also erected mills and made fair pro- 
gress in the development of their mines. 

The number of men employed in the mills and mines of the district at the 
present time is about 200, and the available capital invested may be set downi at 
$200,000. The yield of gold this year will be about 850,000. Much of the 
labor and capital is being expended in opening mines which are not now produc- 
tive ; consequently, if the mines arc equally as good, the yield will not be as 
large in proportion to the men employed as in the older districts. There are no 
placer mines in the district^ or at least none have been discovered. 

Table slioiving the nnmber of men cmploDed, the ccqntal invested, and the gross yield 
of the mines of Nevada county, California. 



Men em- 
ployed. 



Placer and hydraulic mines 
Cement mines 

Quartz mines — 

Grass Valley district . . 

Nevada district 

Eureka district 

Meadow Lake district . 
Canals and ditches... — . 

Totals 



2,000 
300 

1,600 
450 
250 
200 
200 



,000 



Capital in- 
vested. 



$1,500,000 
400, 000 

2, 000, 000 
500, 000 
200, 000 
200, 000 

] , 000, 000 



5, 800, 000 



Gross yield. 



$3,500,000 
300, 000 

2, 000, 000 

500, 000 

200, 000 

50, 000 



6, 550, 000 



Note. — In estimating the capital invested in mining, the design has been to 
include the cost of machinery, tools, &c., as well as the labor expended in opening 
claims which are now considered of value, and excluding those that have been 
worked out or proved failures. The ditches might be considered as a part of 
the capital invested in the placer mines, as the water is mostly used by the placer 
and hydraulic miners. 



SECTION I. 

SIERRA COUNTY. 



The Sierra, the principal drift mining county of California, lies between the 
middle Yuba and Slate creek. The lowest point in the county is probably 2,000 
feet above the sea, and most of the mining camps are at an elevation of 4,500 
feet or more. The sui-face is cut up by numerous canons, about 2,000 feet deep, 
and not one acre in 50 is fit for the plough. There are numerous high peaks, 



138 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

among whicli are tlie Dotmieville Bnttc, 8,500 feet ; Fir Cap, Saddle Back, Table 
mountain, and Mount Fillmore, cacli about 7,000, besides numerous others. The 
Dounieville Butte is one of the landmarks of the State, beiug visible from a large 
area in the Sacramento valley, and it is remarkable for the ragged outline of its 
summit. The county is so rough that only two wagon roads enter it west of the 
sunnnit of the Sierra, one on the divide, between the middle Yuba and the north 
Yuba, and another on the divide lietween the Slate creek and Canon creek. No 
road crosses the county from north to south. The principal mode of travelling 
is mule-back riding. The snow is very deep at the higher camp, lying in some 
of them tliree or four months in ordinary winters. IMost of the mines are on old 
channels, high above the present streams, so high that the introduction of water is 
very expensive. There are few ditches,' and many claims are not able to wash 
more than four or five months in the year. Two old channels cross the county. 
The main Blue lead, which crosses Nevada and Placer, is worked at Deadwood, 
Sebastopol, Little Grizzly, Excelsior, Monte Cristo, City of Six, Forest City, 
Chipps Flat, and Minnesota. All these have been mined mainly by drifting, 
and all save the three first are much less flourishing now than they were from 
six to 10 years ago. This channel runs from the northwest to the southeast. 

Another channel which seems to run from the northeast to the southwest, 
passes through La Porte and Brandy City, thence to Camptonvillc and San 
Juan. This channel is not covered, as tlie other is, by heavy laj^ers of tufa, lava, 
or volcanic sand, and the auriferous gravel coming to the surface offers excellent 
opportunites for hydraulic mining, which is or has been carried on extensivel}^ at 
all the points named. 

A channel found at Ilowland Flat and at Cold Canon, and another found at 
Morristown, Craig's Flat, and Em-eka, are supposed to bo tributaries of the main 
Blue lead. 

La Porte and Port "VVine, which belonged to Sierra county previous to 1866, 
were given to Plumas in that year by a legislative act, which was entitled "An 
act to better define the boundaiies of Plumas county," and was passed without 
any suspicion on the part of the representatives of Sierra or the members generally 
that it took a rich mining district from the latter county. 

The blue cement found in the Blue lead in Sierra county is soft, and it yields 
three-fourths of its gold or more at the first washing, so there is no cement mill 
in the county. In the eastern part of the county is Gold lake, which has the 
appearance of being in the crater of an extinct volcano. 

A belt of limestone is observed between Dounieville and the Sierra Butte, and it 
may be that the belt which appears nearMagalia, in Butte county, is the same. 

The State and county taxes in Sierra are $2 91 on $100 of taxable property, 
and the county debt is $30,000, 

BkAos'DT City. — Brandy City, the principal hydraulic camp of the county, 
uses about 3,000 inches of water in piping claims, of which there are twelve, 
some of them using 500 inches. The lead is 200 feet. The supply of gravel 
will last 10 or perhaps 20 years. 

St. Louis and NEicnBOKiifG Towns. — St. Louis has 10 or 12 hydraulic 
companies working, and using in all 1,000 inches of water, with a pressure of 
100 feet. 

Cedar Grove has drift diggings, but is doing nothing this year. 

Pine Grove, a mile below Howland Flat, was an important place before 1862, 
but in that year the latter town grew up, and the former declined. All the mining 
is done by drifting, save in one piping claim. 

Rabbit Point, a mile below Pine Grove, has two hydraulic claims, which are 
100 feet deep, and together employ thirty men during the water season, which 
lasts three or four months. 

Chandler\alie, a furlong below Rabbit Point, had rich hydi'aulic claims from 
1853 to 1857, but they are now worked out- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 139 

Pine Grove, Eabbit Point, and Cliandlerville together purcliase 700 inclies of 
water in the water season. 

MoRKiSTOWiv^. — The diggings at Monistown are remarkable for the presence 
of hirger quartz bouhlers, and more of them than any other hydraulic claims in the 
State. A stratum 10 or 15 feet deep is made up chiefly of boulders that weigh 
over a ton, many of them being from five to 10 tons in weight. 

There is only one companj-, the American, now piping in Morristown. They 
own all the water that comes into the place, and as it runs only two or three 
months, they want it all for their own use. When their flume is full they have 
1,000 inches. They employ 40 men during the water season. In 1863 they 
took out $20,000, and paid very little dividend. The bank is 50 or 60 feet deeji. 

Miiv^XESOTA. — At Minnesota the pay channel is a quarter of a mile wide, but 
the pay is not equally distributed over it, for there are parts that are barren. If 
one side is rich the other is probably poor ; and if much gold is found on a bank 
or bar, there is little likelihood of finding a rich bed. The bed rock is serpentine, 
and the pay stratum is from three to five feet thick. The gravel is made up 
chiefly of quartz, usually from two to six inches in diameter ; and it is soft enough 
to wash, but so tough that it is not entirely disintegrated until it has been washed 
three or four times. The fourth washing however does not pay, and the dirt of 
most of the claims has been washed only twice. The second washing pays better 
than the first. The gold is coarse, many pieces weighing an ounce, and it fre- 
quently happens that in large lots of dust there is not a piece worth less than 25 
cents. Most of the pieces are worth $2 or more. The sluices are usually about 
400 feet long, with a grade of 16 inches to 12 feet, and no quicksilver is used in 
them. The fine gold is lost in sluices so short and steep, and tail sluices pay 
well. The car load must yield 50 cents or the claim will not pay for working*. 
The ground is solid and the sides of the tunnel need no lagging ; but a cap sup- 
jjorted by posts is required to secure the roof. The pay stratum is usually soft 
enough to be picked down. 

The Blue Lead was discovered hero in 1852 by some surface miners who fol- 
lowed up a rich deposit in Taylor's ravine till it ran out, and then they hunted 
along the side till they found the place where the lead went into the hill. It 
was very rich, and for a long time Minnesota had some of the best d.rift digging 
in the State. . Only four claims are worked now. In 1853 400 miners were 
employed here, and they made on au average $12 or $15 per day, and now there 
are 100, who average $3 per day. 

The Keystone Company have been at work since 1859, employ 18 men, and 
the yield is probably $6 or $8 to the man per day. 

The Wisconsin Company have been taking out pay most of the time for eight 
years, employ 10 men, and get $6 or 88 per day to the man. 

Chipps's Flat is doing very little in the way of successful mining, but there 
is some prospecting in progress. 

Alleghany has the credit of having produced $400,000, but the flush times 
passed away six or eight years ago. The money was nearly all obtained by 
di'ifting, and there was bad drainage and little systematic working. The bed 
rock swells badly, and in places the timbers must be put in as thick as they will 
stand, and reset every week. There were claims Avhich paid well, but when 
work Avas stopped not half of the pay dirt was extracted. 

A company called the Alleghany Consolidated Mining Company has been 
formed to rework this ground. They have purchased eighty acres of claims, and 
are aboiit to commence the cutting of a tunnel to be largo enough to use mules 
for hauling in the cars. They will ran out by their own weight. 

In 1858 there were 18 tunnel companies at Alleghany, all paying; now only 
25 men are at work there. • i, 

Water was supplied by a very costly ditch, which was allowed to go to ruin 
when the miners had no longer any considerable quantity of dirt to wash. 



140 



EESOUIiCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



The Oregon Company took out $400,000, tlie Buckeye $200,000, and tlie 
Empire $200,000. 

The Blue Lead wns found at Forest C ity by the Dutch Company, which obtained 
two or tliree ounces to the pan, and brought Avater to their sluice in a canvas 
flmne. 

The claims at Forest City are situated on the south side of a ravine, north of 
which the lead lias not been found, although a tnnnel has been run half a mile 
into the hill. 

At one time there were 20 con:ipanies Avorking at Forest City and all making 
money, and now there is only one at work. 

Live Yankee Claim. — The principal claim at Forest City is the Live Yankee, 
which has 360 feet of front and a depth of 2,600. The following table shows 
the receipts, expenses, and dividends, from 1854 till 1863, inclusive: 



Year. 


Receipts. 


Expenses. 


Dividends. 


1854 . . 


$15,243 
95,713 

85, 921 
95, 806 
84, 875 
129,937 
84,120 
60, 092 
30, 720 
31 , 350 


$7, 152 
32, 385 
42, 691 
55,616 
43, 973 
67, 303 
40, 236 
38, 192 
26, 970 
22, 800 


$8, 091 
63, 328 
43,230 
40, 190 


1855 »... 


1856 


J857 


1858 


41,902 


1859 


62 634 


I860 


43, 884 


5861 


21,900 


1862 


3, 750 


1863 


8,550 






Total 


713,777 


377, 318 


336,459 





Since 1863 the dividends have been about $10,000 per year. The expense 
of keeping up the mine is considerable. There is a very long tunnel and a long 
track, that need frequent repairs. 

Highland and Masonic. — The Highland and Masonic claim, near Forest 
City, was worked at first through a shaft 368 feet deep. There was much water 
in the channel, and steam-pumping and hoisting works were erected at a cost 
of $76,000. The yield was $300,000, but the expenses were so great that little 
if any profit was left ; and the works stopped, and the hoisting works were burned 
down. The claim was sold for debt, and the new proprietors bought three claims 
in front and a bed rock tunnel 4,000 feet long, and by extending the tunnel the 
claim was worked at much less expense. The 3'ield was $100,000 per month for 
a time. It is said that under the new management the expenses have been 
$8,000 or $10,000 more than the receipts. Nevertheless, some dividends have 
been paid. Some shares of the claim are in litigation, and it is not easy to ascer- 
tain the precise production. The water in this claim u\ acidulous, and a piece 
of slieet zinc left in it entirely disappears in a day or two, and iron shovels are 
made worthless in a few days. 

MoNTECEiSTO. — At Montccristo the channel is 200 yards wide, but the pay is 
only half as wide, and is in a stratum three feet deep. The pay is usually in the 
middle of the channel. The gold was obtained by drifting until 1862, when 
piping was commenced, but the supply of water never exceeds 300 inches, and 
docs not last long, so there cannot be much hydraulic washing there. The bed 
rock swells, and most of the tunnels were allowed to close up three years ago, 
so that though there were 300 miners in 1857, there are now only a dozen. 

Deadwood. — Deadwood is on the ridge between the north fork of the Yuba 
and Canon creek, about 6,000 feet above the sea, and it has an old channel, the 
extent and character of which are not yet proved, but it is supposed to be in the 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 141 

main Blue Lead. The Deaclwood claim, 700 feet front on this old channel, 
has been worked since 1856, has cost 8115,000, and hasj'ielded $10,000. Some 
good gravel has been found, but it does not appear to be in a continuous lead. 
Fifteen men are now employed in prospecting. There are three tunnels, one 
2,500, one 2,200, and one 1,200 feet long. 

Fir Cap, Sebastopol, axd Grizzly. — At Fir Cap Camp, on the south side 
of Fh' Cap mountain, there is an old channel in which some very rich gravel has 
been found lately. 

Sebastopol, on the south side of the ridge, between the North Yuba and 
Cafion creek, is supposed to be on the main Blue Lead. Miners have been 
engaged in prospecting and mining — chiefly prospecting — since 1854, and the 
expenses have been double the receipts. Three long tunnels have been run. 

Little Grizzly, on the north side of the same ridge, and on the same channel, 
has spent $100,000, and taken out about as much. The New Orleans Company 
stnick pay gravel in 1866, and are doing tolerably well now. 

Cold Canon. — Cold Canon, sixteen miles northward from Downieville, and 
on the southeast side of the ridge between Caiion creek and Slate creek, is directly 
opposite to Howland Flat, on the same ridge, and apparently on the same chan- 
nel. The claims at both places are worked by drifting, and the tunnels of each 
place point in the direction of the other as if they would meet. The channel 
appears to be 800 or 1,000 feet wide, and the course at Cold Canon is south 76° 
east. The grade is from five to seven feet in a hundred. The pay is best where 
the boulders are largest, and the general width of the pay is 200 feet, and its 
depth from three to five feet. Over t'he pay stratum is a deposit of gravel that 
would pay well if it were accessible with a hydraulic pipe. A stratum of jupe- 
clay from 20 to GO feet deep, and another of volcanic conglomerate 500 or 600 feet 
deep, are the superincumbent matter. 

The character of the gravel, of the gold in it, and of the various strata, are 
the same as at Monteeristo. 

Fashion Claim. — The Fashion Company, at Cold Canon, have a claim 954 
feet in front by about 4,000 feet deep. Work was commenced in 1856, in which 
year 400 feet of tunnel Avere cut, at a cost of $10,000. In 1857 286 feet more 
cut, at a cost of S5,000, bringing the company into pay. Then it was necessary 
to build a dump-house and sluice, and make other preparations to wash, at a cost 
of $50,000. In 1858 the receipts were $80,000, and the dividends $18,000 ; in 
1859, receipts $60,000, and dividends nothing ; in 1860, receipts $45,000, divi- 
dends $1,000; and from 1858 till July, 1867, the total receipts were $430,000, 
and the total dividends $45,000. In 1865 and 1866 the company took out no 
pay, but now they again have good gravel. 

The gravel yields $1 50 to a car load, the estimated weight of which is 3,000 
pounds. Half that yield would pay expenses. There have been places in the 
claim that paid $4 per car load. The working tunnel is 3,300 feet long. The 
space worked out is 2,000 feet long by 300 Avide. Twenty-five men are now 
employed. Gold is found three or four inches deep in the bed rock, but the 
miners dig up a foot and a half of it for convenience of Avorking, as it is softer 
than the baiTen graA^el, and the pay gravel' is not deep enough for them to Avork in. 
The bed rock swells badly for six or eight months after the drifts are cut. The 
posts in the tunnels are crowded together at the bottom by the SAvelling, so the 
tunnel is cut nine feet wide at the bottom and four feet at the top, Avitli the posts 
straddfing out at an angle of 55>°. In a fcAV Aveeks or a fcAV months the posts are 
nearly perpendicular, and they may have to be set back at the bottom se\'eral 
times before they get right. Drifts are run through the pay dirt Avith a breast 
30 feet wide on each side, and tAvo men Avork at each breast. 

Sierra Claim. — The Sien-a Company, 1,800 feet front by a mile deep, is 
the only company besides the Fashion at Cold canon. The company commenced 
work in 1858, and in 1864 they reached pay in a tunnel 3,000 feet long, after 



142 RESOURCES OP STATES AND TERRITORIES 

spending $70,000. Since tliey began to wasli their expenditures have been 
greater by 85,000 than their receipts; so they are now, at the end of nine years, 
$75,000 out of cash, exclusive of interest. The cLaim, however, is vahiable, and 
will last twenty years. The working of the last three years would have been 
profitable if the company had not changed the grade of their tunnel and raised 
up, so that they got too high for drainage and for easy transportation of their 
gravel. The}'' have lost much time and labor, and have had to go back and run 
in on the original level at a cost of $10,000. Their receipts now are $46-,000 
per year. Their expenses are $35,000 for labor, at $3 50 and $4 per day ; $3,500 
lor timber delivered, $1,200 for candles, $300 for oil for cars, $100 for steel rope, 
and $5,000 for other materials, including poAvder. 

Twenty-five men are employed ; and two of them are kept busy repairing the 
tunnel and the track, principally on account of the swelling of the bed rock; 60 
car-loads of gravel, weighing 3,000 poimds each, are extracted every day; 100 
loads are thrown into a dump-box, and then the mass is piped away. The sluice is 
500 feet long, and 75 per cent, of the gold is obtained in the first three boxes. 
The gravel, after passing through the sluice, is saved and is washed a second 
time, but 97 per cent, of all saved is caught at the first washing. Chinamen, 
however, catch the tailings in the creek after the second washing and put them 
through the sluice again. The space worked out so far is 500 by 100 feet. 

HoTVLAiv'D Flat. — Howland Flat is now the most prosperous mining camp 
in the Sierra and the most productive drifting camp in the State, unless Fir Cap 
has surpassed it. The shipment of gold this year will be about $300,000 ; it 
was twice as much annually for four years previous to 1866. The shipment for 
Februarv, 1867, was $23,o50; for March, $10,000 ; for April, $24,000; for May, 
$31,000^; for June, $31,000. 

The flat from which the place obtained its name is worked out, or, at least, 
has been worked over by drifting. It would, perhaps, pay for piping on an 
extensive scale. The diggings now worked are under Table mountain, and are 
of the class kno^mi as hill diggings. They are in an old channel from 400 to 
700 feet wide, with a pay stratum from three and a half to ten feet deep. The 
boulders in this stratum are all of quartz, some of which weigh a ton. The best 
jiay is among boulders weighing from 100 to 500 pounds. There are large quan- 
tities of sulphurets in the gravel, and it would probably pay to collect them by 
concentration. 

The Skow at IIowlani* Flat. — The town is situated about 6,000 feet 
above the sea, on the north side of Table mountain, which is a rallying point for 
snow-storms, and snow-drifts collect deeply on its northern slope every winter. 
Rain is comparatively rare, and there have been winters almost without rain, 
though snow was abundant. Last winter snow fell about 16 feet deep on a level 
near Howland Flat, but by drifting it got 25 feet deep in the town, and it lay in 
the streets till the 1st of June, and deep drifts Avere still lying on the mountain 
side Avitliin half a mile in the middle of Julj^ For three months the snoAv Avas 
so deep that most of the chimneys were beloAV its level, and people Avent from 
house to house either through tunnels or ])y climbing up to the house-tops and 
going over the surface. 

Last Avinter an open reserA^oir 100 feet square, containing running AA'ater, could 
not be found, although a pole 20 feet high had been fastened on it to mark the 
place. The Avater in this reservok Avas eight feet deep, and Avas supplied by 
springs, and a steady stream ran from it. The suoav over it A\'as Avhite, as clear 
and as hard as that over the adjacent land, and several attempts to find it Avere 
A-ain. The Avater was several times exhausted, but the snoAV did not change its 
place or its appearance. 

The abundance of the snow and its long duration renders it necessary for the 
people to accustom themseh^es to snoAA'-shoes, and snoAV-shoe races are the chief 
amusement m the Avinter. People travel 20 or 30 miles across the country to see 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



143 



them, and large sums are bet on the results. The racing ground is always on a 
long slope, down wliicli the racers slide at a speed that sometimes reaches a mile 
a minute. The shoes are thin pine boards, 12 or 16 feet long, 4 inches wide, 
turned up at the toe. 

Union Claim. — The principal claim at Howland Flat is the Union, 2,000 
feet in front by 3,300 deep. The Bright Star Company began work in 1857, 
and in 1859 they failed, with debts amounting to $40,000, and they had paid 
$50,000 as assessments. The Union Company succeeded to the ownership of 
the mine, and spent $30,000 over and above receipts, and did not get any divi- 
dends until two years later. Four years' time and $120,000 of cash were required 
to bring the mine into a paying condition. 

It is now trying to make amends. Its total yield has been about $900,000. 
The vield for the last 18 months has been as follows: 





Yield. 


Car loads. 


Wages. 




Ounces. 


Value. 




First half of 1 866 


3,181 

2,870 
3, 1831 


$56,680 44 
50,660 CO 
57,307 50 


41,950 
33,160 

48, 167 


$27, 180 
22, 223 


Second half of 1866 


First half of 1867 


29, 556 





Eighty men are employed, at from $3 to $3 50 per day. The cost per car- 
load, exclusive of labor, is 10 cents. Round timbers, from 12 to 18 inches in 
diameter, and from five to eight feet long, for gangways and tunnels, cost 60 
cents each. Breasting posts, eight inches square and from three to seven feet 
long, cost 12 cents each. Caps, 30 inches long, 12 wide, and 6 thick, cost 12 
cents each. Lagging, six feet long, five inches wdde, and an inch and a half 
thick, cost four and a half cents each. The cost of all the material is lumped at 
$10,000 per year. 

The bed rock swells, and the tunnel- is cut 10 feet wide at the bottom, and 
four at the top. In six months the sides are nearly perpendicular, the bottom 
being in the bed rock and the top in the pay dirt, which does not swell. The 
timbers are usually forced into the bottom by the swelling of the bed rock, and 
not broken ; the rock seldom swells, except near the pay. In some places the 
posts must be set back in two months; in others, in a year. 

An air tunnel four by three feet is cut 20 feet above the pay; 30 feet is left 
on each side of the main tunnel for support. The dirt is hoisted on an incline by 
a Fredenbur wheel, driven by 40 inclaes of water, under a pressure of 124 feet. 
The water after leaving the wheel is used to wash the dirt. There are 1,200 
feet of sluices. It is estimated that there is pay gravel in sight enough to last 
eight j^ears. Ventilation is secured by having an air drift 20 feet over the work- 
ing tunnel, communicating with an air shaft 200 feet deep. The gravel is taken 
out through drifts or gangways 50 feet apart, wdth breasts 25 feet wide on each 
side. In 1861 the company obtained the'privilege of drainage through the Down- 
East Company's claim adjoining, by paying $2,000 and giving a strip of ground 
75 feet wide and 3,400 feet long. Thus a great expense previously incurred for 
pumping was avoided. 

Other Claims. — The Fi+tsburg Company have 800 feet front, have been at 
work since 1860, have extracted $500,000, have paid $40,000 of dividends, and 
having exhausted the pay in sight, are now running for auotlier channel. 

The Hawk Eye Company have 800 feet front by 3,500 feet deep. They 
began w-ork in 1857 and reached pay in 1861, after spending $30,000. Since 
then they have taken out $360,000, but the dividends have not been over five per 
cent, of the receipts, and the company are out of pocket. They made the mistake 



144 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

of opening the mine on tlic nppcr side, so they had no drainage. They cut a 
drain tunnel through Union claim, but it closed up in December, 1866, They 
are now running a new drain tunnel, to be finished in three years, to cost $30,000, 
and to lie 3,000 feet long. 

The Down-East Company, who have a frontage of 350 feet, commenced work 
in 1S55. There are 12 shareholders, all of whom work in the mine, and they 
hire no labor. The claim pays about $2,000 a year over ordinary wages. The 
total yield has been $425,000, and $240,000 have been paid out as dividends. 
There is enough pay dirt in sight to last three years. 

The Hibernia claim, 600 feet in front and wider at the back, was opened in 
1862 by a shaft 180 feet deep, and after being worked two years was sold by the 
sheriff, and was purchased by the Shirley Company. The total yield has been 
$125,000. The first company lost $40,000 in the mine; the second is making 
a moderate profit. There is enough pay dirt to last a year. There are twelve 
shareholders, who work in the mine, and they employ three or four Chinamen as 
cannen and pumpers at $1 75 per day. 

The Ohio claim is undeveloped. The Black Ball was bought by the Shirely 
Company and worked out by them. The Sierra, Wild Rover, and Wisconsin 
claims are undeveloped. 

The Sugar Loaf Company have been at work eight or nine years, have pay 
gravel to last three or four years longer, and have not taken out much more 
than enough to pa}^ expenses. Some of the company work in the mine. The 
company have a second claim (numbered 24 on the diagram) which has yielded 
$120,000 in all, and $25,000 of dividends. Part of the Nevada claim has been 
worked ; the Hollins is undeveloped. The Shirley claim has been worked out, 
yielding $100,000 gross, and $20,000 net; it was worked four years. The 
Mountaineer claim was opened in 1859, and is now nearly exhausted; the dirt 
was brought through a shaft by an engine ; the yield was $200,000, and the 
dividends 10 per cent, of that sum. The Last Chance claim was worked out 
by the Mountaineer Company. 

The French Company opened their claim in 1862 by a shaft, but were com- 
pelled l)y water to abandon it. They started again by a shaft, in 1864, and made 
it pay expenses. In June, 1867, they bought the Sugar Loaf tunnel, and intend 
to extend it so as to drain their claim. Their pay will last four or five years. 

The IMountain Ranger claiin has been worked out, paying no profit. The 
Wabash Company worked two or three years and lost $20,000. The Empire and 
Tip Top claims were rich, and were worked six or eight years ago. 

Adjoining the Pittsburgh on the east is the IMonumental claim, 1,200 feet in 
front. The tunnel was started in 1863, and after rmming 2,400 feet it struck 
rich gravel this year. The company arc now raising an air shaft to be 300 feet 
high, and to cost $3,000. The dump-houses, sluices, stock of timber, cars, &c., 
necessary as a preparation for washing, will cost $15,000. The expense of the 
tunnel was $25,000, but the Empire Company, which intends to use it for drain- 
age, has contributed $10,000 towards it. 

The Empire Company liave 1,000 feet front, with the privilege of working and 
draining through the Monumental tunnel ; but they must cut a tunnel 1,200 feet 
long, at a cost of $20,000, to reach their pay. They are about to commence that 
connecting tunnel. 

The Virginia- began to prospect, but after expending $5,000 had to quit for 
lack of drainage. The Nebraska Company began a tunnel, but got into very 
hard rock, and gave it up after expending $fo,000. The Gross Company began 
a tunnel in 1856, have gone in 1,200 feet, expended $55,000, and are now work- 
ing for wages to get the means of continuing their tunnel, which is still in the 
bed-rock. 

Quartz n\ Sieeea County. — Sierra has very few quartz mines that are now 
profitable, but among those few are several that desei-ve to be classed among 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 145 

the l)est in the State. There is one set of quartz regulations for the whole county, 
and these were published in the report of 1866. Some rich veins have been 
discovered near Gold Lake, but they have not been developed sufficiently to 
prove their permanent value. 

Sierra Buttes.— The Sierra Buttes, or, as it is also called, the Reis mine, is 
2,000 feet long, and is situated 15 miles east of Downieville, and the office is 
5,100 feet above the sea. The elevation has commonly been placed at 7,200 
feet, but barometrical observations have proved that the latter figures are incorrect. 
The situation is on a steep mountain side, 1,500 feet above the valley of the 
South Yuba, so steep that there is no wagon road near it. All the supplies are 
brought by pack animals — even the lire-wood cut in the immediate vicinity. 

The mine is situated on a lode which is split up into several branches; the 
width from wall to wall being from 70 to 100 feet, and of this width from 40 tc 
70 feet is quartz, with intervening horses or beds of hard blue slate of the same 
character as the walls. In some places there are two and in others six branches. 
The course of the lode is a few degrees north of west, and the dip is 40° to the 
northward. Six pay chimneys have been found, one of them 500 feet long hori- 
zontally. All these chimneys are vei'tical ; the pay is irregular in them, skipping 
from one branch to another ; if the chimney disappears in one branch, the miners 
look for it in the other branch. No pay chimney gives out. 

All the rock is extracted through tunnels, of which there are six, the lowest 
one being 225 feet above the upper mill, the distance from which to the upper- 
most workings is 1,100 feet, and to the bottom of the mountain is 1,500 feet perpen- 
dicularly, or 2,200 feet following the dip of the vein, so that there is a probability 
of opening and draining the mine to a depth of 3,000 feet by tunnels. There are 
about 40,000 tons of pay rock now in sight, enough to keep the mills going three 
years, and to pay S60,000 of profit. The lower tunnel is being extended, and 
if that should strike the same pay chimneys found above, with the same size and 
quality, the stock of good ore in sight will be 200,000 tons, enough to employ 
the mills 15 years, and to pay $3,000,000. This is the most extensive and most 
promising project now in progress in the State in the matter of opening a mine. 

The mine was taken up in 1857, and has been worked ever since — previous tc 
1857 with ai-rastras; from 1857 to 1860, with eight stamps, five arrastras and 
two Chile rollers; from 1860 to 1867, with 24 stamps; and since June, 1867, 
with 28 stamps. From 1853 to 1857, six tons were reduced per day, or 1,500 
tons per j-ear; from 1857 to 1860, 6,000 tons per year; from 1860 to 1864, 
10,000 tons ; from 1804 to 1866, 12,000 tons; and the present crushing is at the 
rate of 14,000 tons per year. 

The average yield of the quartz has been from $15 to $17 per ton. In 1866 
it was over $17. In the last report the receipts, expenses and dividends were 
given year by year from 1857 to 1865, showing aggregates of $1,120,000 receipts, 
$385,000 expenses, and $735,000 dividends. 

In 1866 the receipts were $224,000 ; expenditures, $70,000 ; dividends, $144,000,,. 
and $10,000 were retained in the treasmy more than at the end of 1865. The- 
yield during the first nine months of 1867 was $156,000, and the dividend was' 
$87,000. The yield previous to 1857 is estimated at $250,000, and the total 
yield from the discovery to the 1st October, 1867, $1,75,000, and the dividends? 
since 1857, $966,000. 

The yield previous to 1857 is estimated at $250,000, and the total yield from- 
the discovery to the 1st of October, 1867, $1,750,000, and the dividends, since 
L857, $966,000. 

Previous to 1857 the quartz was assorted carefully, and about $40 per ton was 

obtained from all worked in 1856, and probably as much in 1854 and 1855 The 

largest dividend in any year before 1866 was $150,000, in 1861, showing that 

the profit of 1866 was nearly fifty per cent, greater than that of any previous year. 

. There are two mills, one of 16 and the other of 12 stamps, both driven by th& 

10 



146 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

same water, one being lielow the other, in the ravine. Amalgamation is effected in 
the mortar and on copper aprons, after leaving which the tailings are ground in 17 
arrastras on shares. Three companies, "with four arrastras each, pay a quarter 
of their receipts to the SieiTa Buttes Company, which derived $3,000 in all from 
that source in 1866 ; and there are iive arrastras below, which pay S40 in all per 
month. These 17 arrastras are all placed in the ravine, one below another, so 
that all are driven by the same water. The arms to which the muUers are 
attaclied are also the arms of the driving wheel, which is horizontal, with perpen- 
dicular buckets against which the water rushes under a pressure. The bottom 
and sides and mullers of the arrastras are of greenstone. 

In the summer 60 men are cmplo}- ed, and in the winter from 52 to 54. There 
are 28 miners, 10 carmen and transporters, nine men in the mills, two carpenters, 
two blacksmiths, two cooks, and several packers. , 

Ii^DEPEXDENCE. — The Independence mine, 4,500 feet long, adjoining the 
Sierra Buttes mine on the west, on the same lode, has the cliff and atrial branches, 
but not the rose, as found in the Sierra Buttes mine — or rather, the rose is found, 
but it has no regularity or importance. The cliff and serial have the same general 
characteristics here as in the adjoining claim, but they seem to be distinguished 
by the occurrence of regular pay chimneys in the cliff and of pockets in the 
ferial. If a pocket is found in the serial near the hanging w'all, the cliff opposite 
is rich on the foot wall. The work is confined chiefly to the cliff, which here ' 
has a yellow ril)bon rock. The thickness of the quartz varies from 3 to 22 feet. 
A depth of 310 feet has been reached, and 800 feet have beeu run on the vein. 
There are three pay chimneys, the largest one 400 feet long horizontally. They 
are nearly vertical, but dip a little to the west. 

There is two per cent, of sulphuretsin the quartz; thc}^ contain on an average 
S75 per ton ; and the superintendent says they are so magnetic that three-foiu'ths 
of the particles Avill adhere to the magnet. 

The total yield in 1866 was 8108,000; the average yield per ton $10, and 
there is enough ore in sight of that quality to last three j'ears. 

The first mill, erected in 1856, began to run in February, 1857, and was 
burned down; the second mill was injured twice by avalanches of snow; the 
third mill, l)uilt in 1861, and now running, has 24 stamps, and is driven by two 
overshot wheels, each 32^ feet in diametei", both gearing into the same pinion- 
wheel, and both driven by the same water, one being immediately over the other. 
As the mill is 1,500 feet above the south branch of the North Yuba river, on a 
very steep hillside, thousands of stamps could be driven by wheels placed one 
below another on the steej) ravine. 

The mine can be opened 1,000 feet below the present working levels l>y 
tunnels. The ore now obtained is extracted through a tunnel, to which it is 
hoisted by steam. Amalgamation is effected in the mortar and on copper aprons, 
below which are blankets ; and the tailings from these, after having lain a week 
to oxydise, are thrown into the battery, and it is supposed that $40 or $50 per 
ton are obtained from them. They are never worked separately. 

In extremely cold weather not so much gold is obtained as in summer, and 
the loss is estimated at three per cent. Since 1856, $75,000 have been expended 
on buildings, $27,000 on flumes, and $5,000 on roads. 

Keystoke. — The Keystone mine, 15 miles eastward from Downieville, has a. 
lode from two to six feet wide, running east and west, and nearl}^ vertical. The 
walls are of black slate, and the quartz is a yellow ribbon rock. There is no 
barren vein-stone, the walls pinching together at the ends of the three pay chim- 
neys, which go down perpendicularly. A depth of 550 feet has been reached, 
and drifts have been run 500 feet on the vein. A tunnel, to be 700 feet long, 
has been started to strike the vein 300 feet below the present workings. It has 
already gone in 400 feet. The gold is fine and free and evenly distributed 
through the pay chimney, except one streak in the middle, which is the richest. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 147 

The seams in the quartz, instead of being parallel with the direction of the vein, 
cross at an angle. The average yield is $17 per ton, and 15 tons are crushed 
per day. The mill was erected in 1S57, with eight stamps, and four were added 
in 1866, making 12 in all. The pulp is amalgamated in the mortar and on cop- 
per aprons, from which it passes over blankets, and the tailings from these are 
worked in Knox's pan. 

Primrose. — The Primrose, 3,700 feet long, is two miles north of the Sien-a 
Buttes, on a vein which runs east and west, dips a little to the south, and is from 
1 foot to 40 feet in A\ddth. The walls are hard and smooth. A depth of 150 
feet has been reached, and drifts have been run on the vein 250 feet. There is 
one pay chimney, 50 feet long at the surface, horizontally, and 250 at the deepest 
workings. A 12-stamp mill was built in 1858, but is now so dilapidated that it 
should be rebuilt. The mine was in a paying condition, yielding $15 per ton, 
when the companj^ purchased the adjacent Good Hope mine for $39,000, incurred 
a debt for payment with three per cent, interest, and undertook to work the latter 
mine, moving the mill to it. The expenses thus made overwhelmed the company, 
and mine and mill were sold for debt. The total yield of the Primrose mine has 
been $226,000, and it is generally considered in Sierra county a valuable mine. 

MrXES NEAR THE SiERRA BuTTES. — Chipp's mine, 1,100 feet long, near the 
Sierra Buttes, is on a vein three feet wide, with an east and west course. It has 
been worked irregularly since 1858, and the yield has been in-egular, sometimes 
large and sometimes small. A depth of 200 feet has been reached. There is a 
fom'-stamp mill, which was built in 1858. 

The Bigelow mine, east of the Sierra Buttes mine, and supposed to be on the 
same vein, has a four-stamp mill, which has been idle four or five years. 

About 600 feet east of the Sierra Buttes lode, and near the mine of that name, 
was found in 1865 a pocket of gold in ochrous clay, with no vein-stone, but with 
well-defined walls. The pocket yielded $13,000 gross and $10,000 net. The 
yield was from $300 to $700 per day to the man while it was worked. 

Mines near Alleghany and Minnesota. — The Briggs quartz mine, half 
a mile above Minnesota, has a vein two feet wide, running east and west. An 
eight-stamp mill was built in 1863, and is now idle. The best yield of the quartz 
was $7 per ton, and the assay value about $20. 

The rrencli mine, one mile southeast of Minnesota, has a vein four feet wide, 
very rich in spots. A 15-stamp mill was erected in 1863, but is not running 
now. 

The Rainbow mine, near Chipp's Flat, was found in a gravel tunnel 2,000 feet 
from the mouth, and from that an incline was run down the vein. The rock is 
rich, but the shaft incline is filled with water, and there are many disadvantages 
in working a mine situated like this one. An eight-stamp mill was erected in 
1858, and has stood idle four or five years. 

The Oak Flat mine,'on Kanaka creek, one mile from Chipp's Flat, has a vein 
four feet wide running east and west. There are two tunnels, each 500 feet long, 
and work is now being done on the lower tunnel to open the mine. A four-stamp 
mill was built in 1862, was afterwards torn down, and is now to bo rebuilt. 

The Newell quartz mine, on Kanaka creek, one mile above Chipp's I'lat, has 
a 10-stamp mill, which is standing idle, waiting for the opening of the mine. 

The American Hill mine, four miles east of IMinnesota, has a vein five feet 
thick on an average. A six-stamp mill, built in 1858, paid well for a time, but 
was sold for debt and has been idle for eight months. 

The Union mine, in Wet ravine, one mile from Alleghany, has a pocket vein 
18 inches wide. It has yielded $75,000, including $15*^000 taken out in a hand 
mortar. There is an eight-stamp mill, which was built in 1864 and has been 
idle three or four months. The vein runs east and west, and the mine is troubled 
with water. 

The Ironside mine, seven miles east of Alleghany, is reputed to be rich with 



148 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

refractory ore. An eight-stamp mill, built in 1864, ran two months and has 
since been idle. 

The Twenty-one mine, on Kanaka creek, one mile below Alleghany, has pro- 
duced little. A four-stamp mill built in 1866 is standing idle. 

The Consolidated mine, on Jim Crow canon, east of Alleghany, has a vein, 
but very little gold. A 16-stamp mill, erected in 1863, has been taken down, 
and is to be moved to a vein above Forest City. The Consolidated Mining Com- 
pany of San Francisco spent $90,000 on their mine and mill. 

Mines near Downieville. — The Wheeler mill, near Downieville, is stand- 
ing idle. It once had eight stamps, and now has but four. 

"The Gold Bluff mine, two miles above Downieville, is being opened by a 
tunnel. There is a 12-stamp mill standing idle. 

The Kanaka mine, six miles east of Downieville, is standing idle, with a 
20-stamp mill, the property of a New York company. 



SECTION XI. 

YUBA COUNTY. 

The greater part of Yuba county is valley land, but the eastern end reaches 
to a considerable altitude in the Sierra, Camptonville being 4,200 feet above the 
sea. 

The county debt is $200,000, and the State and county taxes together are 
S3 17. 

The principal mining towns are Brown's Valley, Timbuctoo, Smartsville, 
Sucker Flat, and Camptonville. 

Campton, Brown's, and Hansonville. — Camptonville is an old channel 
which appears north at Brandy City, in Sien'a county, and south at San Juan, 
in Nevada county. At Camptonville it appears near the top of a high ridge, and 
is nearly worked out. There are three hydraulic companies at work there, each 
using about 200 inches of water. The shipment of gold from Camptonville is 
now about $500,000 per year; seven years ago it was $700,000. 

Brownsville, in the northeastern part of the county, had ravine diggings, which 
are nearly exhausted. There are now numerous orchards in the neighborhood. 

Hansonville, four miles south of Browaisville, has some ravine and some quartz 
claims. About $10,000 have been taken out of quartz pockets in hand mortars. 
Seventy-five inches of water are used for in'igating vineyards. 

Yuba River. — The Yuba river, which was once lined with numerous large 
mining towns, has now been filled to a depth of 70 feet with gravel from the 
hydraulic mines, and the sites of all the river camps are now buried. There 
Avere 13 bars on the river within the present limits of the county, and all rich. 
At Parks's bar in 1852, there were eight companies at work in the river bed, with 
$218,000 invested in dams, flumes, pumps, &c., and with 200 hired laborers. The 
total number of voters was over 400, and the gold yield during part of the summer 
was about $10,000 per day. The Ohio Company took out $96,000 in the season; 
the Canal Company, $108,000; the Squaw Companv, $60,000; the Excelsior 
Company^ $89,000 j the Patch Company, $60,000. The Canal Company in 1851 
paid $150,000 dividends. These figures are derived from notes taken in 1852, 
by Lyman Ackley, esq., who was at that time State census agent for Ynlia county. 

The Sucker Flat Channel. — The leading mining district of the county 
is at Smartsville, which has Timbuctoo, a mile distant on the west, Sucker Flat, 
half a mile to tlie north, and Mooney Flat, two miles east. An old channel from 
600 to 1,000 feet wide runs through Timbuctoo, Sucker Flat, and Mooney Flat, 
leavins: Smartsville to the southwest. The bottom of this channel has not been 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 149 

worked for any distance, and therefore its coiu'se, -v^-lietlier to the southeast or the 
northwest, has not been ascertained, but it is presumed that it ran to the north- 
west. From Sucker Flat to Timbuctoo there is a ridge composed entirely of 
auriferous gravel, except a stratum of white cement, as it is usually called, about 
150 feet below the surface. This cement is from 15 to 30 feet thick, and contains 
a little gold. 

Timbuctoo. — The claims at Timbuctoo arc the following, beginning at the 
west, and running eastward on the old channel : 

Mr. Warren had an original location of 125 by 100 feet, but this was not largo 
enough to justify the expense of the preparation necessary for hydraidic washing, 
and he purchased others adjoining, and the present Warren Company oavii 500 feet 
square, with a bed of gravel 130 feet deep. Forty feet at the surface are of gravel 
and boulders, then comes pipe-clay, 30" feet deep, and then a deep stratum of 
blue cement, which is richest near the bed rock. Drainage is obtained through 
an open cut, which with the flumes and other work and materials necessary for 
washing, cost $18,000. The supply of water is very irregular, but when it can 
be had, 500 inches are purchased at an expense of $75 per day. Labor, powder, 
and other expenses amount to #150 per day more, and the yield is $300 per day. 
About 10 men are employed. It is said that $60,000 have been paid for water 
to wash the ground of this company. 

The Antone Company began work in 1853, drifting, and found very rich 
cement, which, when washed in a short sluice, paid them $50 per day to the 
hand, tliough much of the cement was not dissolved. A fence was built to hold 
the tailings, which after intervals were washed again and again, paying almost 
as well as at first. In 1854 they began to pipe, and the claim still yields well. 
They have paid $70,000 for water, Avhicli they cannot always get when they 
would like to have it. 

The Union Company's history is very similar to that of the Antone. Their 
claim has been nearly as rich, and they have paid more for water. 

The Michigan Company have a claim 1,000 feet long by 500 feet wide, which 
has been one of the most productive in the vicinity, the total yield having 
been $500,000, of which $150,000 have been paid for water, and $50,000 as 
dividends. The upper strata have been nearly all washed away, and the com- 
pany are now running a tunnel to be 700 feet long, through which to wash the 
stratum next the bed rock. 

After passing several claims, we come to the Babb Company, who have 500 
by 400 feet. The surface of their claim has been washed off to a depth of 130 
feet, yielding $250,000, of which $95,000 went for water. They have a tunnel 
1,100 feet long, but it is so located that it gives a bank only 30 feet deep at the 
front. The late results, however, are very satisfactory. One clean up of 21^ 
days yielded $7,800; another of 19 days yielded $7,000; and a third of 22 days 
gave $12,000. They paid $90 a day for water, use 600 inches, and employ 
from 8 to 12 men. They own half of the Michigan tunnel, and the two com- 
panies will make alternate nins through it. 

Sucker Flat Claims. — The Blue Point Gravel Mining Company have a large 
claim at Sucker Flat, have worked it nine years, and have piped away half the 
area, 60 feet from the surface, washing through an open cut. They are running 
a bed rock tunnel to be 2,270 feet long and 110 feet deep. This enterprise was 
commenced in November, 1866, and will be finished in two years, at cost of 
$100,000. The depth of the gravel has not been ascertained precisely, so it is 
uncertain whether the tunnel will drain the claim to the bed rock. 

The Union Company have a large claim, have washed off one-fourth of it to 
depth of 60 feet in one part and 120 feet in another. They are not piping now, 
and intend to tail into the Blue Point tunnel when it is finished. 

The Blue Cement Company have a claim 500 feet long, by 240 feet wide, on 
which they began to pipe this year, with 20 men and 500 inches of water. Their 



150 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

present bank is 33 feet deep. They are now cutting' a tunnel 30 feet deeper, and 
tliey expect i a tail into the Blue Point tunnel when it is completed. 

The Nevada Reservoir Ditch Company own about 100 acres, supposed to be all 
hydraulic ground, on the Blue Lead, near Sucker Flat and Mooney Flat, enough 
to last 50 years. 

The O'Brien claim is 1,100 feet long on the ridge, and includes 30 acres. The 
present workings are 140 feet deep to the white cement, and the gravel is washed 
in a sluice 3,000 feet long. The quantity of water used is 600 inches; the yield 
from $150 to $250 per day, and the net profit $15,000 per year. A tvmnel 
210 feet belo?v the present sluice, to be 800 feet long, and to cost $50,000, has 
been cut 260 feet, and will be finished in two years. This tunnel will be deep 
enough to drain the bed rock for some distance each way. 

McAllis and Gordon have 700 feet of the ridge, and have lately completed a 
tunnel 1,500 feet long, at a cost of $40,000 to work the upper lead or the gravel 
above the white cement, and within 175 feet of the surface. Five years will be 
required to work off this upper lead. The distance from rim rock to rim rock 
across the channel in this claim is 1,000 feet. Seven men are employed, and 
500 inches of water consumed. A tunnel to work the lower lead under the white 
cement will require three years' work. 

The Taylor claim, 300 by 600 feet, is half worked out, and has paid very well, 
yielding with 600 inches of water from $300 to $400 per day, lately the latter 
sum. Six men are employed. 

The Excelsior Water Company have a claim 600 l)y 1,000 freet, from which 
they have obtained $300 or $400, and sometimes $500 per day. 

The Pittsburg claim is 2,000 feet long on the old channel, and is owned by 
an eastern company, which paid $300,000 in currency for it. They are now wash- 
ing through a tunnel that cost $80,000, and the daily yield is reported to be $660, 
with 600 inches and 12 men. The present bank is only 30 feet deep, and a new 
tunnel, to be 76 feet lower, and 1,600 feet has been cut 400 feet, and two shafts 
have been commenced on the line, so as to have four additional working faces. 

Smaetsville Blue Gravel. — The Smartsville Blue Gravel Company have 
a claim of about 150 acres at Sucker Flat. The channel is at least 200 j^ards 
wide, and its depth has never been ascertained precisely. On the bed rock lies 
a stratum of barren blue cement, 5 or 10 feet thick, containing large boulders 
of granite and slate. Next comes a stratum of hard blue pay cement, containing 
large boulders of slate trap and granite, a few pebbles, including some of quartz, 
and much quartz sand. It requires an experienced e3'e to distinguish this from 
the lower layer, but it is important to know then precise limits, for all of the pay 
cement is to be washed away, and all of the ban-en left in its place. Then comes 
a stratum of soft blue cement, 55 feet deep, softer on the northern side of the 
channel, and in places where the bed rock is lower than elsewhere. There are 
very few boulders in this stratum, and the pebbles are mostly of slate, and less 
than two mclies in diameter. The largest gravel and the richest pay in this 
layer are found near the top. There are great variations in the hardness, but 
none is soft enough to pipe down. 

The top stratum is fine red gravel, from 25 to 75 feet deep, softer than the 
blue, but still not soft enough to pipe. The pebbles are mostly of slate, green- 
stone, and quartz, the last very fine. 

Many trees are found in the claim, some carbonized, others partly rotten, and 
partly replaced by sulphurets of iron. There are no petrifactions and no humaii 
bones or articles showing human workmanship. 

Powder is used more extensively here tlian in any other hydraulic claim, prob- 
ably more than in any other mine in California. All the strata are too hard to be 
piped down with economy, and some of them are so hard in places that the pipe 
would scarcely affect them. So much powder has been used here that its employ- 
ment is reduced to a system. The quantity of powder for the blast depends 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 151 

upon the depth of the bank and the surface area .to be loosened. If the bank 
is 50 feet deep a tunnel four and a half feet high and two and a half Avide may- 
be run in 75 feet ; a cross-drift 60 feet long is cut across the end at right angles, 
and another similar cross-drift of equal length 55 feet from the mouth of the 
tunnel. 300 kegs may be used in such a blast, all distributed along in the cross- 
drifts and in the tunnel beyond the first cross-drift. 20 kegs near the intersec- 
tion are opened by taking out the heads ; the others are left closed, with the cer- 
tainty that they will all be opened by the explosion of the 20. From the inter- 
section to within 10 feet of the moutli wooden troughs two inches wide and deep 
inside are laid, and a liberal supply of powder is poured in, leading to an open 
keg. The 10 feet nest the mouth are laid carefully Avith a fuse, and for that 
distance the tunnel is filled in with dirt. When the blast is fired a dull, heavy 
sound is heard, the earth rises slowly about 10 feet; it then settles down, leaving 
a dust behind it, and on examination an area about 120 feet square will be found 
all shattered. 

By blasting, the water is enabled to carry off twice as much dirt as it would 
otherwise ; and as 500 inches of water are used at an expense of $75 per day, 
there is a vast saving. The cost of powder is large, as about 10,000 pounds are 
consumed monthly on an average in this one claim. After the ground has been 
blown the pipes can bring down more than they can carry away, so about one- 
third of the water is allowed to run down over the bank, Avhile the remainder is 
thrown through the pipes. 

The portion of the claim worked is a hole 200 yards wide, 600 long, and 100 
feet deep in the hill or ridge. The dirt from this hole has been carried oti' through 
a tunnel 1,700 feet long, and without a tunnel it would have been impossible to 
wash away the immense mass of gravel. At first a hole was washed 75 feet deep, 
and then another 75 feet deeper, and thus there is a bench in the claim. 

For the sake of economy in washing it is customary to have three places to 
work upon at a time, so that after the pipes have been playing for two hours at 
one place they may be turned upon another, and the miners can then go and 
break up with their picks the large hard lumps which the water can neither break 
up nor carry off. 

The sluices have a grade of 7 inches to 12 feet, and are paved with wooden 
blocks and boulders of basalt. The entire sluice is cleaned up once in four 
months, and half of it at intervals of two months. At the cleaning up clean 
water is run through so as to carry off the surplus dirt and gravel, and the water 
is nearly shut off. The false sides are taken off and Avashed with a little Avater. 
Tlie Avooden blocks in the bottom are set up edgeAvise, Avashed off, and taken 
out ; 200 inches of AA'ater are turned on, and this cleans the dht from the rock 
paving, Avhich is taken out and put to one side. The sides of the flume are 
scraped and sAvept. Boards 10 inches high are fitted tightly across the sluice at 
intervals, and tough clay^ is put at the sides and bottom, so that no quicksilver, 
gold, or Avater can pass except over the top of the board. This is done before 
the rock paving is moA'-ed. Tavo huntbed inches of Avater are noAV turned on, 
and all the gold, amalgam, quicksilver, black sand, and heavy gravel are col- 
lected above the boards. As they have three tons of quicksilver in the sluice 
at a time, and expect to find at least $40,000 of gold at a large clean-up, the 
operation requires some Avork. The usual time consumed in the cleaning up is 
48 hotu's, and three days more elapse before the sluices are again in running 
order. There are three large clean-ups of about $40,000 each, and three small 
ones each of about $25,000, in a year. Thirty men are employed. 

The total yield since March, 1864, Avhen the claim became productive, has 
been about $1,000,000. 

The report of 1866 gave a brief liistory of the claim and some details, Avhich 
it is not necessary to repeat noAV. 

SiCAED Flat.— Sicard Flat, on the. north bank of the Yuba river, two miles 



152 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



from Timbuctoo, lias liydranlic diggings in a bed of gravel 90 feet deep. The 
best pay is in a bed of gray gravel from 4 to 10 feet deep on the bed rock, but 
none of it is rich enough to jjay for drifting. The boulders are of trap, and 
seldom weigh more than 100 pounds. The widest part of the channel is 400 
yards Avide on the surface, but the bottom has not been reached on the north- 
eastern side. There is not enough pressure to pipe well, and the dirt is not soft 
enough to dissolve entirely at the tii'st washing ; though in most claims it gets 
only one. In many claims tunnels and cross-drifts six feet high are cut at inter 
vals of 8 or 12 feet each way, and in three or four days the pillars give way and 
the gravel above is well broken up by the fall. General rumor says that Sicard 
Flat has never paid. 

The Lower Diggings claim, on the southwest end of the Flat, is 400 feet square, 
uses GOO inches of water in the spring, and employs nine men. The Avater is 
supplied l)y a ditch belonging to the claim. The yield for the season of 1866-7 
was $13,000, and the expenses for the season were about $1,000 per month. 

The Gates claim, 360 by 400 feet, and the Black claim, 200 by 400 feet, 
have not been Avorked for three years. 

On the side of the ridge facing Parks's Bar is the McQueen claim, 800 by 400 
feet, Avith a ditch carrying 600 inches of Avater belonging to it. This claim, 
Avlien last Avorked, yielded no profit. 

The Union claim has not been Avorked for six or se\'en years. 

Beoavn's Valley. — BroAvn's Valley, 11 miles northeastAvard from Marysville, 
and about 500 feet above the level of the sea, is a rich quartz district. 

The Daniel Webster Company haA^e 3,600 feet on the Jefferson lode, have 
gone doAA'n 90 feet, and there stopped work three years ago. They are noAv 
reorganizing and preparing to start again. 

The Pacific has GOO feet, went doAvn 60 feet, and is doing nothing. The claim 
has been in litigation for five years. 

Jeffeesox. — The Jefferson mine is 780 feet long on the Pennsyh^ania lode, 
Avhich has yielded most of the gold obtained in Brown's valley. The vein run 
north and south, dips 45° to the east Avith the course and cleavage of the slates, 
and has tAvo main branches which unite at a depth of 360 feet in the Pennsyl- 
vania, and on the surface at the north end of that mine and at the south end of 
the Jefferson. The eastern branch has mostly bluish quartz, and is not dis- 
tinctly traceable Avithin 90 feet of the surface at the shafts of the Jefferson and 
Pennsylvania mines. The Avestern branch has mostly yelloAvish quartz. Each 
branch in places is 1 feet Avide or more. 

The width in the Jefferson mine A-aries from 1^ to 14 feet, Avith an average of 
six or seA^en feet. The main incline is down 612 feet, and drifts have been run 
400 feet on the vein. A fine pay chimney found near the northern line Avas ] 00 
feet long at the surface, and 160 feet down, enlarged so as to be nearly 300 feet 
long horizontally, and maintained the same width to the 300-foot level, Avhere it 
seemed to split. 

The yield at the surface Avas sometimes as high as $40 per- ton, and for small 
bodies of ore CA^en rose to $200, but during the last four years has at no time 
exceeded 615. The folloAving table shoAA's the yield of the mine since it has 
been in the hands of the present companj^, for the several mine years ending 
December 1st: 





Receipts. 


Labor. 


Other expenses. 


Dividends 


1863 


$19, 554 90 
121, 380 05 

88,197 60 
124, 208 82 

56, 275 67 


$8, 926 75 
54, 794 56 
28, 063 73 
52,951 02 
46, 419 51 


$12,622 88 
28,596 17 
12,406 69 
30, 888 93 
6, 654 47 




18G4 


$42, 9C0 
42, 900 
45, 800 




1866 


1867 






Total 


409, 617 04 


191, 155 57 


91,169 14 


131, COO 





WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 153 

The year 1863, in tlie above table, began on tlie 13th September, when the 
company took possession ; and the year 1867 comes down only to the first of 
October. Before September 13, 1863, the yield had been about ^$ 13 0,0 00, mak- 
ing the total production of the mine 8539,000. 

In 1,300 tons of ore there is one ton of sulphurets, which yield §220 of gold 
per ton. 

The fineness of the gold at the surface was 840, and at 600 feet below it is 
863 to 865. 

The mill has 12 stamps and three Harney pans. About four and a half per 
cent, of the total yield is obtained from the pans. There are two engines, one of 
60 and the other of 30-horse power. In this mill the scraps of iron found in the 
mortar, consisting of fragments from the shoes, dies, shovels, picks, hammers, 
and drills, are carefully saved, on account of the particles of gold driven into 
their interstices w'hile they are battered about in the ore. From 20 to 50 pounds 
are collected in a month, and after being digested in warm sulphm-ic acid until 
a quarter of an inch is eaten off" the surface, they yield about 83 of gold for 
every pound of iron. The larger scraps, before going into the acid, were broken 
up with a sledge hammer. The shoes and dies contained the gold chiefly on the 
face, and these, instead of being broken up and put into acid, w'ere boiled half 
an hour in water, and then they w^ere hammered and the particles of gold fell 
out of the interstices. 

In a diagram the Pennsylvania shaft is shown running down into the ground 
claimed by the Jefferson. The two companies agree about their boundary line 
at the surface, but they have a dispute as to the direction of the line below the 
surface ; and the Pennsylvania Company having taken some valuable quartz from 
[,he disputed ground, the Jefferson Company have sued them for 8100,000, its 
alleged value. The main question in the suit relates to the direction of the vein. 
If the plane of the lode were vertical — that is, if the lode had no dip — there 
would be no dispute about the boundary line after the point of junction at the 
surface had been agreed upon, but this vein dips at an angle of 45°, and the 
direction of the boundary depends on the direction of the vein. If the vein runs 
with the meridian the boundary plane would be parallel with the equator. We 
have no express provision in our statutes relative to the legal point, but the courts 
will no doubt decide, when the question is raised, that the limit of a lode mine is 
a line made by a vertical plane passing through the vein at right angles to its 
horizontal direction. If a book is set up vertically on a table and another dip- 
ping at an angle of 45° is pushed against its side, the end of the sloping book 
will not fit against the other unless tlie two books meet at right angles. Put up 
two books sloping at 45° so as to touch at the upper corners, with a difference of 
10° or 15° in their direction, and then- ends will show how the boundary lines 
of mines run in different directions according to the course of the lode. The 
Jeff'erson and Pennsylvania agree at the surface, but 500 feet down there are 
50 feet of vein in dispute between them. 

PE:^^■I^^sf LVA^fiA. — The Pennsylvania Company, incorporated at Marysville, 
has 1,300 feet on the Pennsylvania lode and its branches, adjoining the Jeffer- 
son on the north ; and it is supposed that several pay chimneys found on tha 
latter mine dip into the Pennsylvania. 

A depth of 600 feet has been reached on an incline, and drifts have been run 200 
feet on the vein. Two pay chimneys are worked, and two others have been found. 
The company commenced work in 1863, ran down 110 feet on the Pennsyl- 
vania lode, then struck across into the Jeff'erson, spent 875,000 before getting 
any return, and then spent 875,000 of the net receipts in opening the mine and 
building the mill. No dividend has been paid yet, and the $75,000 expended 
on the mine and mill have not been reimbursed. During the last ten months, 
according to the statements of the president of the company, the net yield above 
ordinary expenses has been 87,500 per month. The average yield at present is 



154 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

$15 per ton ; the amount crusliecl per montli from 900 to 1,000 tons ; tlie ordinary 
expenses $4,509, leaving $10,000 net per month. 

There is one ton of sulphurets, containing 61,000, in 1,000 tons of quartz. 
. The mill has 16 stamps, is situated on the south end of the claim, and is driven 
by a steam engine of 100 horse-power. The quartz is hoisted by steam. Amal- 
gamation is effected in the mortar and on a copper apron, below which are blankets, 
and the tailings from these are ground in four Chile mills. Wheeler and Ran- 
dall pans are now being set up as preferable to Chile mills. 

An experiment was made by grinding all the blanket washings from the 16 
stamps, two hours for each charge, in the Chile mills, and the yield was eight 
ounces of gold in a month. Then half the tailings were ground, four hours to 
a charge, and the yield was 200 ounces in a month. Again, all the pulp from a 
four-stamp battery was allowed to run with a continuous charge and discharge 
through a Chile mill, and not one ounce was caught in two weeks. The ore was 
the same in quality and quantity, and the amount caught in the mortar dm'ing 
these experiments was the same ])er week. 

In the middle of the Pennsylvania claim is an incline 180 feet deep, with 
pumping and hoisting works and a 15 horse-power engine. A railroad carries 
the ore from this incline to the mill. 

In the Pennsylvania mill the Von Muller amalgamator, invented by the presi- 
dent of the company, is used. It is a box three feet long, a foot wide, and a 
foot deep, with a board set into the ends and going to within an inch of the bot- 
tom. Quicksilver, half an inch deep — about SO pounds — is put into the box, 
which is then set under the sluice, below the amalgamating apparatus and the 
blankets. The pulp pours into the box above the board, has to pass under the 
board and then up, escaping over the lower side, which is not quite so high as 
the ends or upper side. This amalgamator reqmres little attention, and always 
catches enough gold to pay. 

The Chile mills have cast-iron basins, cost $400 each, work a charge of 100 
pounds in four hours, and make 10 revolutions per minute. 

The Wheeler and Ilandall pans grind a charge of 1,200 pounds in foiir hours, 
and cost $500. Long grinding is very important for those ores in which the 
quartz is very fine. 

Othee Qttaetz Mixes of Yuba. — The Burnsidc Company have 800 feet, 
went down 40 feet, but suspended work when the panic of 1864 came, and are 
preparing to start again. 

The Paragon Company have 1,800 feet, did some work previous to the panic, 
and have done nothing since. 

The Oplik- Company have 1,200 feet, and have had the same history as the 
Paragon. 

The Rattlesnake, fonnerly the Yuba mine, is 1,600 feet long. The vein is 
two and a half feet wide, and a depth of 140 feet has been reached. There is 
a 30 horse-power engine for hoisting. A yield of $18 per ton was obtained from 
1,500 tons. The company are preparing to build a mill. 

The Dannebroge mine, 2,400 feet long, is on a lode which runs northeast and 
southwest, and intersects the Pennsylvania lode at the north end of the Penn- 
sylvania mine. The vein is three feet wide, and it dips to the northwest at an 
angle of 40°. Only one pay chimney has been discovered, and that is 150 feet 
long, horizontally, with hard white flintj^ quartz, containing many fine specimens, 
and averaging $15 or $20' per ton — the richest in Brown's valley. The total 
yield was $250,000, according to report, but the company has had much litiga- 
tion and has kept its affairs as secret as possible. Rumor says the superintendent 
had instructions to keep no books. Work was stopped in 1865, and was resumed 
in July of this year. A depth of 500 feet has been reached, and drifts have 
been nur 200 feet on the vein. There is an eight-stamp mill, with two Chile 
iiills and an engine of 20 horse-power. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS 155 

Half a mile west of the Pennsylvania mine i^ the Sweet Vengeance, 8,400 
feet long, on a lode which runs northwest and southeast, and dips 40° to the 
northeast. They commenced work in 1863, spent $80,000, extracted $25,000 
from the mine, and stopped work t^vo years ago. JMan}^ rich specimens have 
been obtained from the mine, and for six months it paid expenses. A depth of 
200 feet has been reached ; drifts have been run 250 feet on the vein • and there 
is a 20-stamp mill. 

The Bayerque claim, one mile east of Brown's valley, has reached a depth of 
100 feet, and has quartz that yields $18 per ton. Some of the rock has been 
crushed at the'Dannebroge mill. 

On the same lode is the Anderson mine, which is being opened. The quartz 
is rich in sulphurets. 

West of Brown's valley, at Prairie diggings, are hundreds of quartz claims, 
which were prospected a little in 1863 and abandoned in 1864. 

At Dobbin's ranch is the Batemau mine, which has a vein 18 inches wide, and 
yields $30 per ton. There is a five-stamp mill, which began work in July of 
this year. 

At Frenchtown, in a ravine between two steep mountains, there are many 
quartz veins, but no mill. 

The Brown's Valley Tunnel Company undertook to run a long tunnel into 
the hill back of Brown's valley for the purpose of prospecting 19 quartz veins 
which crop out on the hill, but they were stopped by the panic of 1864, after 
going 200 feet. 

Tlie ]\Iarc Antony claim, a quarter of a mile west of Timbuctoo, had a pocket 
that paid $5,000 to a hand mortar, and nothing has been obtained since. 

The Andrew Jackson quartz mine, near Smartsville, has a 10-stamp mill, 
which is not running. The vein is now being opened. 

The Deadwood lode, one mile from Forbestown, and very near the Butte 
county line, is four feet wide, and has yielded $5,000 in hand mortars. Three 
tons taken out near a pocket, and worked in a mill, yielded $30 per ton. It is 
supposed that there is little beyond the pockets in the lode. 

Brown's Valley Quaetz Regulations. — The records of Brown's Valley 
district have not been kept carefully, many alterations have been made in the 
regulations, and there is much doubt as to what regulations are in force. The 
requirement of representation at annual meetings is peculiar. 

On the 14th of February, 1853, a meeting was held "to make new laws to 
govern the mines in said valley in regard to working and holding claims." The 
following resolution was passed at that meeting : 

Resolved, That the law passed February 14, 1852, and all laws previous to that date regu- 
lating the working of quartz claims in the above valley and vicinity, is an arbitrary and 
despotic set of laws, and are this day revoked by common consent. 

Nothing was done at that meeting to fix the size of claims, or the conditions 
under which they could be held. A clause adopted at this meeting requiring the 
posting of a notice on the claim of any company or individual at the time of loca- 
tion was repealed on the 31st of July, 1853. On the 8th of August, 1853, the 
following resolutions were adopted : 

Resolved, That each claim shall be entitled to a vote in the miner's meetings in this district, 
by the proper owner, or represented by power of attorney from the proper owner, specifying 
the object of that power and its limitation. 

Resolved, That each claim, in the future semi-annual meetings of this district shall be repre- 
sented in person or by a written power of attorney, otherwise it shall be forfeited. 

At a meeting held on the 14th of August, 1854, W. Kinsella moved that all 
claims that had been worked since the last meeting should be exeinpt from the 
necessity of being represented. The motion was lost. 



150 EESOUROES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

At a meeting lield on the 4tli of January, 18G4, the followinc: resolutions were 
adopted : 

Rcsoh-rd, That the law requiring each shareholder or claimant in a company to represent 
his individual interest he, and is hereby, expunged from the record. 

Resolved, That any known member of a company shall have full power to represent and 
cast a vote of said company to the number of feet therein contained, on all questions pertain- 
ing to the mining laws of Brown's Valley district. 

On the 2d of January, 1865, the following resolution was passed : 

Resolved, That for the better regulation of working claims, from and after this date it will 
only be necessary to perform or make improvements on any quartz claim during the year to 
the amount of $100, in order to hold the same, and after such work has been done, the repre- 
sentation of claims annually will be sufficient to hold the same, and all parties after having 
performed such labor or improvements shall leave a written notice to that effect with the 
recorder of the district, the same to be placed on record. Any claim that shall have performed 
such amount of Avork shall be considered exempt, providing said work was done within the 
past year. 

On the 8th of January, 1866, the following resolution was offered by Charles 
Bandum : 

Resolved, That for the better regulation of claims, hereafter any and all claims shall have 
at least $5 worth of work or improvements performed on each and every claim of 150 feet 
every year, in order to hold the same. 

H. Videau moved to amend by saying $20 instead of $5. The amendment 
and resolution being put to vote were both lost. 

Mr. Bandinn moved to reconsider, and the motion was carried. 

It was then moved by H. Leland to amend H. Videau's amendment by having $10 worth 
of work or improvement performed on each and every claim of 150 feet annually in order to 
hold the same, in addition to the annual representation, and that a sworn certiticate of such 
work or improvement must be recorded with the mining recorder of this district, and that 
■ivJess such certificate be recorded that such work has been done, then such claim or claims 
slifk.'l be forfeited. The amendment was then put and carried. 

There is no record that Videau's amendment, or Mr. Bandmn's resolution, was 
put to a vote. 

By a resolution adopted January 3, 1859, it was declared that quartz clauns 
should be 150 feet on the vein, with all the dips, angles, and spurs. 

On the 7th of January, 1867, the following resolution was adopted : 

Resolved, That the law requiring work, improvement, or labor to be performed on claims, 
be dispensed with, and that representation be sufficient to hold the same, running until the 
first Monday of May, 1868. 

The following is a copy of a certificate of representation, on record : 

I do hereby certify that I am the agent and part owner of the Brown's Valley Gold and 
Silver Mining Company, situated in the Brown's Valley mining district, Yuba county, Cali- 
fornia, and that the representation, &c., of the same has been duly performed according to 
the district laws for the years 1864 and 1865. 

G. H. LELAND, Agent. 

January 29, 1866. 

Empiee Quaetz Regulations. — The Empire district, near Smartsville, has 
the following regulations : 

Notice of a claim or location of mining ground by individual or by a company, on file in 
the recorder's office, shall be deemed equivalent to a record of the same. 

Each claimant shall be entitled to hold by location 200 feet on any lode in the district, 
with all its dips, angles, spurs, offshoots, outcrops, depths, widths, variations, and all min- 
erals and other valuables contained therein — the discoverer of any, or locater on a new lode, 
being entitled to one claim extra for discovery. 

The locater of any lode or ledge in this district shall be entitled to hold on each side of the 
ledge, lode, or lead, located by him or them, 250 feet, including any lateral veins, lodes, or 
ledges, bearing minerals therein. The space of said 250 feet on each side of the main lead 
shall be considered as claimed by, and entirely belonging to, the locater orlocaters of a ledge, 
and his or their assignee, and parcel of the same mine. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 157. 

It shall be the privilege of any person or persons or company, -when the vein ledge or lodo 
of mineral is not distinctly traceable on the surface, to take up the ground they desire to 
prospect, stating in their notice the manner they intend to prospect the same. 

Every claim, whether by individual or company, shall be recorded within 10 days after 
the date of location. 

It shall be required of each company holding ground in this district to put $50 worth of 
work on said ground in three months from the date of recording. 

When any company shall have done honest work to the amount of $100 upon their claims, 
and shall cause an entry to be made on the records of this district, said company shall be con- 
sidered as having acquired a vested right in said ledge, which shall have all the force and 
eflfect in law and equity as other real estate and property. 

When any company has put work to the amount of $50, said work shall hold said claim 
for one year. 

These regulations were adopted January 2G, 1S63. No quartz mines are now 
worked in the district. 



SECTION XII. 

BUTTE COUNTY. 

Butte is a large county, which includes part of the basin of the Feather river, 
and reaches from the Sacramento river eastward to a line where the tops of the 
ridges are about 4,000 feet above the sea. The western part of the county is in 
the lowland of the Sacramento valley, and a majority of the people are engaged 
in agricultural pursuits. The higher portions are densely covered with pine 
forests, on which most of the Calilbrnia turpentine and rosin have been made. 

Oroville, the county seat, is connected by railroad with Marysville, and the latter 
place will soon be connected with Sacramento. 

The county debt of Butte is $280,000, and the State and county taxes, $3 30 
for the current year. 

Feather river was extremely rich in early days, but it is now worked out ; or, 
at least, no extensive fluming or damming entei-prise in the river has paid within 
the last eight years. 

The town of Oroville stands on a bed of auriferous gravel which may pay for 
washing at some day. 

Butte Table Moxhsttain. — The most prominent topographical featm-e of 
Butte county is the Butte Table mountain, which rises at Lassen's peak and flows 
down as a river of basalt to Oroville, where it terminates on the north bank of 
Feather river, which it never crossed, or else all south of the stream has been 
swept away, unless certain peaks near Bangor are remains of it. The course was 
nearly south, and its general elevation above the plain near Oroville is 1,000 feet. 
The width averages about a mile, but there are places Avhere branches extend a 
considerable distance to the westward. The surface declines about 100 feet in a 
mile to the southward and about 50 feet to the mile to the westward. Is this 
inclination to the westward due to the accidental wear of the surface by the water, 
or is it caused by the upheaval of the SieiTa"? The inclination of 50 feet in a 
mile to the westward, observed near Oroville, may not be found along the whole 
course; but if it marks the entire length of the basaltic stream, it would imply 
an uplifting of the eastern side. 

This Table mountain, like the similar one in Tuolumne county, covers the bed 
of an ancient auriferous stream, but it is neither so rich nor has it been worked 
so much as the other basalt-covered river. 

Cherokee. — The principal mining camp on the Butte table mountain is Cher- 
okee, where the basalt has been denuded for a distance of four miles, giving miners 
an opportunity of getting down to the auriferous gravel. The strata here, accord- 
ing to the observations of Charles Waldeyer, esq., are the following, commencing 
at the top: basalt, 80 feet high; pipe clay and sand, 10 feet; boulders burned 



158 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

and vitrified, 12 feet; sand and clay mixed with quartz gravel, 20 feet; pipe clay, 
12 feet; white qnartz gravel, 150 feet; pipe clay, 12 feet; white and yellow quartz 
gravel, 100 feet; sand, 15 feet; white and yellow quartz gravel, 200 feet; pipe 
clay, 30 feet; quicksand, 10 feet; white quartz gravel and sand, 10 feet; reddish 
quartz, 10 feet; blue gravel, from 5 to 40 feet. The denudation at Cherokee is 
from 300 to 500 feet deep, in some places reaching to the top of the upper layer 
of white and yellow quartz gravel, and in others reaching down to the middle of 
the second. In no place is the gravel less than 200 feet deep in the middle of 
the channel ; that is the presumption, for the bottom of the channel has not been 
reached; but the miners generally suppose that the lowest workings are veiy 
near the bottom. The rim-rock rises about 150 feet above the bottom of the 
channel, and is not cut through to the bottom any W' here by canons. 

The diggings at Cherokee have been worked since 1850, and have always 
paid moderately well, but there has never been enough water. Most of the 
claims are suitable for the hj'draulic process. The gravel and gold bear much 
resemblance to those found at Smartsville. 

Oeegoi^J' Gulch Gold Mimng Compaistt. — This is an extensive placer mine, 
situated at the head of Morris Gulch. The basalt, of which Table Mountain 
chiefly consists, covers an ancient river bed, extending from Cherokee Flat in a 
south W' est wardly direction for a number of miles, until it is lost in the Sacramento 
valley. When the emption occurred in this locality, the bed of the ancient river 
was the lowest portion of the country. The basalt, occupying the river bed, 
ff>rced the w-ater into new channels, which, in process of time, wore the sTuround- 
ing country down to its present level. Being of an indestructible nature, which 
almost absolutely resists the action of the elements, it protected the bed of 
the liver from denuding agencies, and we thus find the river bed in almost 
exactly the same condition as when it was overwhelmed by lava in remote 
ages. 

The exceedingly regular grade of the surface of every portion of this lava 
flow not undermined by the action of water proves that the country has not been 
subject to any great upheaval. 

In the course of time the Sacramento river fomied its valley and the Feather 
river cut its channel through the rocks towards the mountains, leaving the ancient 
river beds over a thousand feet above their present levels. 

IMonis Gulch commenced at the Feather river, and cut its com'se to the north 
into the ancient river channel, gradually wearing away the bed rock, and causing 
vast slides of rock, gravel, sand, and the basalt cap into its canon, where, in 
process of ages, all was reduced and carried into the Feather river in the form 
of sand and gravel. This gulch cut through the richest portion of the ancient 
gravel bed, and a large part of the gold remains in the gulch, rendering it one 
of the richest gulches in California. 

Oregon Gulch was enriched from the same source. 

Shirmir Gulch, on the west, did not reach the gravel in the old river bed, or 
at least that portion w'hich contains the pay streak. 

Wherever this has been worked it has proved rich, as just north of Oroville, 
at the head of JVIorris Gulch, and at Cherokee Flat for a distance of over 10 
miles. Its width is not definitely known, but at the head of Moms Gulch it 
must be over a mile. At Cherokee Flat, and near Oroville, the miners follow 
down the bed of the ancient stream, and in a short distance the water, having no 
outlet, becomes very troublesome, and will in time prevent w'ork from that direc^ 
tion. But at the head of Morris Gulch the miners follow up the stream, and 
the water drains off and does not interfere with their labors. 

This appears to be almost the only point where sufficient fall can be obtained 
for a good " dump" for hydraidic mining. '^ Dump " means a sufficient declivity 
from the end of the flume to cause the tailings or debris from the mine to run 
off in natural channels and not accumulate at the end of the flume. This is 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 159 

very important. Unless a, mine lias a good dump, it cannot be worked by 
hydianlics to any advantage. 

The Oregon Gulch Gold Mining Company are at work at present on a large 
slide, and still have a good dump. But when they follow the lead under the 
basalt, they will find the bed rock much higher than where they are now at work. 
This will give them an excellent dump, suliicient to wash all the gravel under 
the mountain np to Cherokee Flat. Tlie indications are that they are at work 
on the western side of the lead or pay streak, and as they follow into the moun- 
tain they will get nearer its centre, where the gravel Avill probably be richer than 
where they are working at present, and much more water will be met with. This 
will be a great assistance in washing the sand and gravel. Except in an abun- 
dant supply of water at all seasons of the year, the natural facilities for working 
this claim are superior to those of any other claim of a similar natm-e in this 
vicinity. 

They have been turned to good account by the manager of the company, Mr. 
William Hendricks. All the work has been done in a thorough and miner-like 
manner. The position of the company's flume is lower than any other in this 
locality, so that, as the work progresses, all the water in the mountain must pass 
through it ; this is important, as the use of the Avater in the mountain will be of 
great value. 

The scarcity of water in the dry season will only delay the working of the 
mine. If water should be brought in by a ditch company, work could be con- 
tinued during the whole year, which would l^e a great advantage, but this would 
in a measure be neutralized by the cost of the water. 

The expense of bringing water to a desii'able point, either by pumping it up 
from the river or by iron pipes, is so great that it is difficult to see any profit in 
the enterprise, unless the mine owners in the mountain should bring it in for 
their own use. 

These mountain claims are among the most enduring placer mines in California. 
This ancient river bed is as rich as the bed of Feather river ; and a company 
owning half or a whole mile of the Feather river bed, as rich as it was before 
it was worked, would have possessed one of the most valuable mines in the 
world. The cost of working the old bed under the mountain will not be greater 
than that required to flume and drain Feather river. 

The climate is mild and healthful. Mining operations can be prosecuted at 
all seasons of the year. Being within four miles of the tenninus of the Marj^s- 
ville and Oroville railroad, labor and all supplies required in mining can be 
obtained as cheajjly as at any other mining locality in California. 

The Cherokee Blue Gravel Claim. — The Cherokee Flat Blue Gravel 
Company have a claim a mile wide across the mountain by two miles long on its 
course, south of Cherokee. They have been trying to get into the channel, but 
have not yet succeeded. They started a low tunnel, which ran into trap rock 
so hard that work was stopped, and then a shaft was sunk 155 feet deep, and 
the Avater became so troublesome that that had to be abandoned ; and then an 
incline was commenced, and that has reached the red gravel, which is supposed 
to rest on the blue cement. The claim is probably very valuable, but much time 
and money may be required to open it. The company is incorporated in San 
Francisco. A steam pump is used for hoisting water from the incline. The claim 
has been worked since 1856, and the present company have spent $70,000. The 
blue cement supposed to be on the bed rock, where it has been reached, has yielded 
•"$8 per day to the hand, when worked under great inconvenience, and has been 
soft enough to be washed in a sluice without crushing. 

The Eureka Claim. — The Eureka Company cut a tunnel 900 feet long, 
and, after nine years' work, got into gravel, but did not succeed in making 
enough to repay them for $40,000 expended. They are not at work now. The 
tunnel is 106 feet below the top of the rim rock. 



160 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The Cheeokee Claiai. — The Cherokee Company, who have a piping claim 
in the flat, took ont $54,000 in 50 days' washing in 1866 from a stratum seven 
feet deep, 100 feet wide and 300 feet long. The company own 50 acres, have 
piped away abont six, have expended $150,000, and have extracted $500,000. 
They had water to wash 60 days this year, and in one dry season they could 
wash only 10 days. It is to be presumed from the yield of the small part of 
their claim already worked, that if they had an abundant supply of water they 
might produce more than any other placer claim in the State. 

Welch & Co., adjoining the Clicrokee Flat Blue Gravel Company, have a 
claim 100 feet square, from which they have taken $25,000. 

Diamonds. — Cherokee has been notable for the production of diamonds, a 
number having been obtained here. They are mostly found in the red gravel 
next to the blue cement at the bottom of the channel. This '^red gravel," as it 
called, is a stratum of tough red clay enclosing pebbles of various kinds, mostly 
quartz and green-stone. The gems have not been observed in this stratum, but 
after j^ortions of it have been washed, they have been picked up in the sluice. 
Some persons have spent daj^s and weeks in hunting for diamonds, but without 
avail. They are not sufficiently numerous or valuable to pay for a special search. 
The metal in the red gravel is more valuable than the stones. If at some future 
time there should be an opportunity to wash much of this stratum, attention will 
no doubt be given to the diamonds, which might, under favorable circumstances, 
be obtained in sufficient quantity to reward the extra care required in collecting 
them. Those found at Cherokee are nearly all clear, and so brilliant at the sur- 
face and so regular in then- crystallization, that no doubt of their character could 
remain in the mind of any one familiar with the natm'al form. 

MoEEis, NiMSHEW, AND KiMSHEW. — Bctwccn Cherokee and Oroville Morris 
ravine has cut deep down into Table mountain, and has washed away much 
auriferous gravel, but has not enabled the miners to get fairly into the channel, 
though they have spent much money in attempting to get in. The ravine claims 
were very rich. 

Nimshew and Kimshew are places north of Cherokee where tunnels have been 
run in to strike the old channel under Table mountain, but they have not paid 
much. 

Bangoe. — Bangor is 12 miles southeastward from Oroville on an old channel, 
the bed of which is about 60 feet below the level of the lowest ravines in the 
neighborhood. At the bottom of this channel is a deposit of hard blue cement, 
about 60 feet wide and six feet deep. In this cement are found boulders weigh- 
ing several tons, and the gravel is green-stone, trap, granite, slate, and quartz ; 
the last being not more than one-eighth of all the gravel. The stream seems to 
have been about as large as Feather river, and to have run toward Oroville with 
'a grade of five feet in 100. Over the pay stratum there is a barren grayish 
cement, softer than the blue. 

This channel was discovered in 1857 by some placer miners, who, while run- 
ning a cut in a ravine, found the bed rock dipping down, and after following it 
as far as they could in the cut, they went off some feet and sunk a shaft, which 
in 65 feet struck a rich stratum, which paid $100 per day to the hand. The 
existence of a channel being proved, the outcroppings of the rim rock at the 
ravines and on the hill-sides showed its course, and it was claimed for miles. The 
pioneer claim was known as Boyle's. 

The claim in which the channel was next opened was that of Tucker, to the 
southeast. This claim -was worked three or four years, but did not yield much 
profit, the pay stratum being found for a distance of only 200 feet. 

The Floyd claim, adjoining Tucker, the third in reaching the pay, was worked 
for a year and half, in which time the pay dirt was exhausted. The cement was 
so tough that it was washed eight or nine times, and was not entuely dissolved 
then. The yield from the first five washings was $46,500 ; the expenses $14,500 j 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 161 

the dividends $32,000. About $23,000 was obtained from tlie first wasliing; as 
for the production of the washings after the fifth, no information couhl be obtained, 
but it was probably quite small. This claim was 300 feet long, and pay was 
found for a length of 220 feet in the channel. The shaft reached the pay in 
April, 1858, and it has been customary to wash the dirt every spring. 

Nest to Floyd's was the Oroville claim, 600 feet long. It was worked by 
three shafts and paid well for several years. Common report says the bed rock 
was not well cleaned. 

Between the Oroville and Boyle claims the channel did not pay in any place, 
though many shafts were sunk. Southeast of Tuckei-'s nothing was found, and 
it is doubtful, according to some miners, whether the channel was struck. 

The Barmun claim, northwest of Boyle's, is 1,500 feet long, and Avas opened 
in 1861 by a shaft, Avhich struck the pay stratum at a depth of 55 feet. Two 
hundred feet of the channel were worked out in a j-ear and a half, and the dirt 
was washed three times in a sluice 300 feet long. The first washing, imme- 
diately after the cement was extracted, yielded $8,000; the second, a year later, 
gave $2,000 ; and the third, after an interval of two years, yielded $1,500. The 
dirt is not fully washed. yet, and it is saved to be put through the sluice again. 
Two other shafts have been sunk, but nothing has been taken out of them as 
yet, though good prospects have been found in one of them. Several companies 
are prospecting for the channel northwest of the Barnum claim. 

Cement Baeeel. — At the Barnum claim Mr. E. Bassett has been trying to 
reduce cement in a barrel eight feet long and three feet in diameter, made of 
boiler iron. An iron pipe runs through the barrel, passing through hollow jour- 
nals, and through this pipe exhaust steam from the engine is to pass, so as to 
heat the cement. There are two doors opposite to each other in the ban-el, each 
10 by 14 inches, for charging and discharging. A ton of cement, 10 pounds of 
quicksilver, and 60 gallons of water will be a charge, and when the door is 
fastened down the steam -^-ill be turned on ; the barrel will be set to revolving 
at the rate of 20 revolutions per minute. In 20 minutes the cement will be at 
boiling heat, and in 50 minutes it will all be disintegrated. One hour will be 
required for a charge, including charging and discharging. There is no doubt 
that the cement can be disintegrated in this manner, and the expense does not 
exceed 25 cents per ton. The barrels are lined with wood set endways, two and 
a half inches thick. 

Wyandotte. — Wyandotte, sixteen miles west of Forbestown, has some ravine 
claims, half a dozen hydraulic claims, and an ancient channel, the same that is 
Avorked at Bangor. This channel is 50 feet beloAv the level of a creek that 
passes Wyandotte, and thus there is no natural di-ainage, and the blue cement at 
the bottom of the channel is not supposed to be rich enough to pay for pump- 
ing. Several shafts ha\'e been sunk to the bottom, striking the channel. The 
hydraulic claims at Wyandotte have banks 75 feet high, and take 40 inches of 
Avater each on an average, AAith a pressure of 75 feet. There is a large body of 
this gravel. A thousand inches of Avater are pm-chaged here, a small portion of 
it for irrigating orchards and vineyards, but mostly for shalloAV mining. 

Foebestoavn. — Forbestown, 22 miles eastward from Oroville, on the main 
divide betAveen the Yuba and Feather river, and on the main road between Oro- 
ville and La Porte, has quartz and placer mines, lumbering and tm-pentine-making 
among its resomxes. 

The town Avas in its most flourishing condition in 1855, when it polled about 
400 votes, and noAV it polls only about 100. 

The shipment of gold from ForbestoAvn in 1866 was $135,000 ; from the 1st 
September, 1866, to the 15th July, 1867, it was $80,121. 

There are a number of springs on the ridge near ForbestoAvn, all about the 
same level, and all have cold Avater. No town in the State has so large a supply 
of cold and good water from springs above the level of the main street: 
11 



162 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

In Robinson's liill, near town, there are a number of quartz veins, most of 
tliem small, and many of tliem visibly auriferous. 

New York Flat is tlie principal mining district near Forbestown. Three 
hydraulic claims are at work there now, employing in all about 20 men. In 
1866, four companies there took out $50,000. 

There has been some difficulty about drainage, and the Nevada Company ai'e 
making a deep cut to be lialf a mile long, and to drain a body of ground 4,000 
feet long and 300 feet wide, supposed to be rich. 

MoOEEViLLE AND EvANSViLLE. — Mooreville, in the southeastern corner of 
the county, has a large body of auriferous gravel, in a good position for piping, 
except that it is difficult to get water high enough. There was a ditch which 
was too low down, and it has now gone to ruin. A new one to be 60 feet higher 
has been commenced, but no work is being done at it now. Some doubt is 
entertained whether tlie gravel is rich enough to pay for washing. 

Evansville, four miles southwest of Forbestown, pm'chases 200 inches of water, 
some of it for mining and some for irrigation. 

Eangoe Quartz Regulations. — Each mining district in Butte county has 
its own quartz regulations. 

The regulations of the Bangor district contain the following provisions : 

Article 2. The size of <i mining claim in this clistrict shall be as follows : for ravine or 
snrface mining a hundred yards square, provided that a ravine claim shall extend from bank 
to bank ; for blue lead claims a hundred feet in length and extending from rim to rim ; for 
quartz or other mineral-bearing rock 200 feet on the lead with its spurs and angles, and 
100 feet on each side of said leadj with sufficient ground adjacent thereto for the erection 
of the necessary work.s,, 

Art. 4. Persons locating claims in this district shall post in one or more conspicuous 
place or places thereon a notice containing the number of claims, with the names of the 
locaters and a general description of the ground claimed, with the boundaries thereof, and 
within 10 days thereafter lile with the district recorder, hereafter to be provided for, a general 
description of said claim, with the boundaries thereof sufficiently distinct as to be easily 
found by reference to the record, which record and notice shall be bona fide proof of posses- 
sion of said claims for the space of 90 days from date of record thereof. 

Art. 5. After the expiration of the 90 days mentioned in the previous article, all 
claims shall be deemed abandoned, unless the parties locating the same shall proceed to work 
them in good faith, and by expending in labor and improvements at least $5 per month 
for each 100 feet claimed until the amount so expended shall amount to $60 for each 100 
feet of the whole amount claimed. 

Art. 6. Parties having complied Avith articles four and five shall be entitled to hold their 
claims without further expense for two years. 

Foebestown Mining Regulations. — The mining regulations of the Forbes- 
town district now in force were adopted on the 9th June, 1863, and 48 quartz 
claims are recorded in the district. 

The following are the main provisions : 

The size of an individual claim on gold-bearing, silver, or other mineral veins shall be 100 
feet in length on the ledge vein or lode, including all lateral spurs, angles, variations, and 
intersecting veins, with a width of 200 feet on both sides of the ledge. 

When there is conflict in boundary, or as to location, the, claim or claims first located shall 
have priority of right; locatiori and property and the claim subsequent in date, if it is a 
lateral interference, may be extended by expansion on the other side, if desired, provided the 
same does not interfere with a prior location. 

Every claim located in this district must have good, substantial notices, specifically setting 
forth the direction, nature, and extent of the claim, posted at each end of the same in some 
conspicuous place, and a copy thereof filed in the office of the recorder within 10 days 
thereafter. 

Each quartz mining company who have claims in this district, upon which $50 worth of 
work shall have been expended, must be worked upon in good faith'at least two in every 30 
days by the company holding said claims, and all ground which shall not have been so worked 
within 30 days shall be deemed vacant ground and subject to location the same as though 
it had not been located. Those claims on Avhich work to the amount of $.jO shall be done 
may be held by the claimants for the period of six months after work shall have been stopped 
on the same, when the claim shall be considered abandoned. 

The size of a placer or ravine claim shall be 100 feet in length, running up and down tho 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 163 

ravine, and the owner or owners of said claim or claims can work the same as wide as he oi 
they choose, and if a quartz lode runs across the placer "claim the owner of the same shall 
he entitled to 100 feet of the quartz lode, 50 feet on each side of the main or deepest channel 
running through his claim. 

NiSBET QuAETZ MiXE. — The Nisbet Mining Company, incorporated in Slarys- 
ville, lias amine 3,600 feet long on a vein wliicli runs north and south, dips 50" 
to the east, and averages two feet in width at Oregon City. The walls are of 
slate. The main shaft or incline is down 160 feet, and drifts have been run 700 
feet on the vein, in pay all the way. The lode varies in thickness from six inches 
to nine feet; in very narrow places snlphnrets form one-tenth of the vein, and in 
the widest not more than a hundredth. The sulphurets assay from $1,300 to 
Si, 600 per ton ; are caught in a sluice and are saved to be worked at some time in 
the future. The mill has eight stamps, and there is a g«x-inch pump for drainage, 
all driven by steam. Work was commenced on the mine with arrastras in 1S51, 
and the present mill was built in 1864. The yield at the surface was 834 per 
ton; and of late it has been $10, exclusive of the sulphurets, for the reduction 
of which no arrangements have been made. Thirteen men are employed ; nine 
white men and four Chinamen. The latter are considered better feeders because 
they do not become impatient and dissatisfied Avith the monotony of the labor. 

Sprixg Valley. — The Spring Valley mine, a mile and a half east of Chero- 
kee, is on a vein which rans north and south, is seven feet wide, and is nearly 
horizontal at the surface for 200 feet, and dips 50° to the east. The claim is 300 
feet long. There was a 10-starap mill Avhich crushed several thousand tons of 
rock, and extracted, according to report, from $10 to $24 per ton. The mill was 
burned doAvn and Avork ceased on the mine, but lately Avork has been resumed, 
but there is no new mill as yet. 

Other Quartz Mixes of Butte. — The Poaa^cII mill, at Oregon City, has 
12 stamps, and has been idle a year. 

The llock IliA-er mill, which stood betAA'cen Oregon City and Cherokee, has 
been remoA"ed. There AA'as a roasting furnace attached to it. 

There is a five-stamp quartz mill at Mount Hope, not running. 

Three quartz mills at Yankee Hill liaA^e been burned doAA'n — the Yankee Hill, 
the Virgin, and the Fuller. 

Derrick's quartz mill, at Oregon City, Avas taken across the mountains in 1863, 
and stays there. 

White & Nutter's mill, at Oregon City, AA'as moA^ed aAA-ay in 1866, 

The Bloomer Hill mill, 14 miles north of Oroville, has eight stamps, and is 
noAv nmning, but the mine is pockety, and the yield is \^ery irregular. 

Near Lovelock's, seven or eight miles above Dogtown, an arrastra is running. 

Smith &Sparks's mine, tAvo miles and a half northeast of OroA'ille,is on a vein 
four feet Avide, running north-northwest, and dipping northeast. The Avails are 
of slate. The mill has eight stamps, Avas built in 1865, and rebuilt in 1864. It 
has been standing idle for two years. The owners are mostly San Franciscans. 

The Forbestown Mining Company oaati 15,000 feet in 9 or 10 claims, on dif- 
ferent lodes. Mexican lode No. 1 is five feet AA'ide, and has yielded $20 per ton 
for 100 tons; and Mexican lode No. 2 is 12 feet Avide, and has 3'ielded $10 per 
ton for 200 tons. There is a five-stamp steam mill Avhich has not been used 
except for prospecting pm-poses, and is now standing idle. 

The Shakspeare mine, 3,000 feet long, has a vein 12 feet Avide and has been 
opened by a small shaft. Ten tons yielded $10 per ton. 

The Polecat lode, one mile from Forbestown, is two feet wide, and 100 tons 
of its quartz yielded $1,200. 



164 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

SECTION XIII. 

PLUMAS COUNTY. 

Plumas county comprises tlie more elevated portion of the basin of Feather 
river. It is high, rugged, and wild. Lassen's Peak forms the northwestern 
corner, and that was a great centre of volcanic energy, from which lava and scoria 
were poured or blown out upon the adjacent country. The ancient rivers which 
appear at Montecristo and at Brandy City, in Sierra, ran through Plumas, but 
then- course has not been traced so distinctly, nor have they been worked with 
so much profit. In most places where the channels have been found, they are 
covered so deep with volcanic matter, and the pay stratum is so difficult of access, 
that the profits of working have been moderate. On the other hand, there is 
reason to believe that many extensive gravel deposits in this county will be worked 
at a profit within a few years, and that gravel mining will make more progress 
here for years to come than in any other part of the State. 

The county is very rich in quartz, and American valley and Indian valley are 
two of the main centres of quartz-mining industry in California. There are many 
rich veins of copper, but the_y cannot be worked with a profit at present. At 
least, none has yielded any profit, although one is being worked now. 

The principal placer-mining camps, all on old channels, are La Porte, Secret 
Diggings, Gibsonville, Saw Pit Flat, Little Grass Valley, Onion Valley, Wash- 
ington, Hungarian Hill, Badger Hill, Eagle Gulch, Grizzly Creek, and Spanish 
Eanch. 

The quartz veins in Plumas generally run east and west, and dip to the south 
at an angle of 45°. 

Beckwourth's Pass. — Plumas county possesses in Beckwourth's pass the 
lowest across the Sierra Nevada ; but it is not in the direct line of travel between 
Sacramento and Virginia City, and therefore it is not much used. The elevation is 
4,500 feet above the sea, and the latitude 39° 50'. The pass proper is two miles 
long, and for 12 miles the road has an elevation of more than 4,000 feet above 
the sea. Last winter the snow, at the deepest, was two feet and a half on the 
summit — not enough to interfere seriously with travel, even if nothing were done 
to beat it down. Heretofore the road west of Quincy has crossed a ridge C,000 
feet high with 18 miles of snow-belt, but a road is to be constructed down a canon, 
so that there will be a continuous descent from Quincy (which is 3,400 feet above 
the sea) to Oroville ; and then there will be no more trouble from snow. The 
last legislatiu'C authorized Plumas county to i3sue bonds to the amount of 665,000 
to aid in the construction of a road along the north fork of Feather river to Beck- 
wourth's pass, and a company has commenced work. The first 30 miles out 
from Oroville are to be on railroad grade ; and the whole work is to be finished 
in 1868, at a cost of $140,000. The superiority of this route for wagon travel, 
in every respect save distance, is admitted by all persons familiar with the difier- 
ent passes over the Sierra. 

CoNLT AND Gowell's Olaim. — Couly and Gowell have a very large claim 
at La Porte, made up of 100 original claims. It includes the entire old chan- 
nel 500 feet wide, and extends into the hill half a mile or more. 

During the water season they use 3,000 inches of water, at least so long as 
they can get so much ; they employ 50 men, and so anxious are they to avoid 
any loss of time while they can get water, that they run continuously through the 
season, cleaning up only once a year. 

The dirt is soft, and 1,200 inches of water bring down as much as 3,000 can 
carry off", so only 1,200 are thrown through pipes, the remaining 1,800 inches 
being allowed to run down over the bank. There are three sets of pipes, three 
.or fom- in each set. The pressm-e is 100 feet. Twelve men take charge of the 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 165 

pipes by niglit, and as many more by clay ; and 26 men are employed inshovel- 
lintr bed rock and pay dirt, moving boulders out of the way, and so forth. 

The day hands work 10 hours and the night hands 12 hours, and the pay foi 
each is $3 50 per day. At night torches are made in iron baskets resting upon 
iron posts about five feet from the ground. In these baskets pine wood is bm'ned. 
giving a very good light. Fkes are also built on the ground so that the men 
can warm themselves. 

The claim has outlet through two tunnels. The Northampton tunnel is 2,000 
feet long, has a sluice six feet wide, and cost $160,000. Ten years were spent 
in cutting 500 feet, so hard was the rock. The Wan-en Hill tunnel is 2,000 feet 
long and 5 feet wide, and cost $15,000. The grade of both tunnels is 4 inches 
in 16 feet. The Northampton tunnel receives the dirt from two surface sluices, 
and usually canies 2,000 inches of water ; the WaiTen Hill receives one sluice 
and carries 1,000 inches. The ground and the outlet do not permit the use of a 
steeper grade ; and, as no small sluice could wash on that grade, it was necessary 
for the owners of small claims to sell out and let them be consolidated in one 
large claim. Another tunnel is being cut, to be 3,000 feet long, to drain another 
part of the claim. 

Under-cuiTents are not used here. Width is considered particularly desirable 
in sluices. The paving in the sluices consists of boulders as large as a man can 
lift, and they are worn out in a season. The water is shut off for an hour at 
noon every day, and men examine the whole length of the sluices, to see that 
the paving is all right and to repair any breaks. 

About a ton of quicksilver is put into the sluices in a season, and one quarter 
of it is lost. The mercury, instead of being thrown directly into the sluice, is 
scattered on the surface of the bank which is to be washed down. It is put into 
a can made of Russian sheet-iron, large enough to hold 40 pounds, and the cap 
or nozzle of the can is perforated with holes an eighth or a quarter of an inch in 
diameter, through which the metal is sprinkled. 

The ditch which supplies water for the claim is owned by the same proprietors, 
cost $100,000, but could now be constructed for $50,000. The length is 13 miles. 

The preservation of the flumes against the snow is expensive. Whenever a 
snow-storm comes on men are sent to shovel the snow off, lest the weight should 
break down the flume ; and then the snow must be shovelled away from the flume 
on the hillsides above, for the snow bank moves slowly dovm hill with tremen- 
dous pressure, which no flume could resist. The trees on the hillsides show this 
influence, for they are all bent down hill, and many are broken down every winter. 
It is necessary to cover the iron pipes xvith strong timber, or they would be crushed 
flat by the weight of the snow. The pipe used in this claim cost $2,000. 

The channel is 500 feet wide; the grade, 50 feet to a mile; the rim-rock, 100 
feet high on the east and 20 on the west, on an average. The deposit of gravel 
is 100 feet deep. It is white near the top ; red, blue, and black at the bottom. 
There are many boulders of quartz quite black. In the upper strata the pebbles 
are seldom larger than a goose egg ; in the lower there are many boulders from 
6 to 20 inches in diameter. At the bottom is a layer two feet thick of hard 
cement, which is crushed in a five-stamj^ cement mill belonging to the same pro- 
prietors. 

In 1866 Conly and Gowell washed off a strip of ground 1,100 feet long, 300 
feet wide, and 80 feet deep, equivalent to 435,000 tons of 40 cubic feet each. 
The gross yield was $32,000 and the net $12,000. If we multiply the 1,100, 
the 300, and the 80 together, we find that 26,400,000 cubic feet, or 660,000 tons 
of 40 cubic feet each, were washed away ; and if we divide the 660,000 tons by 
the $32,000 we find that 20 tons went to $1, or that the yield of the gravel per 
ton was five cents. This amount is so small that it suggests the probability of 
some error. It appears that the expense of washing was but three cents and a 
third per ton. No other place in the State can wash dirt so cheap. 



166 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The number of days s])ent in washing this area was about 100, and the average 
amount of water used 2,000 inches. An inch is 100 tons of water in 24 hours; 
and 2,000 inches supplied in 100 days 20,000,000 tons of water to move 660,000 
tons of gravel, or 30 tons of water to 1 ton of gravel. 

The claim of Conly & Gowell is large enough to last for 20 years longer. 

Gard & Orr have a very large claim alongside of Conly & Gowell, use 2,000 
inches of water, and employ 50 men; and their ground will last 20 years. 

It is said that across both of these claims runs a perpendicular dike of lava 
or trap, rising out of the bed-rock and passing through the gravel entirely across 
the channel. This dike has never been pierced through, and its size is unknown. 
A similar dike, according to rumor, was found at Brown's diggings, 15 miles 
northwest of La Porte. 

The two claims mentioned are the only ones of any note worked at La Porte. 
Ten years ago more than 50 companies were in profitable operation there. 

Tlie yield of La Porte and the placers which sold their dust there, in 1857, 
was $4,000,000 annually; now it is 81,000,000. 

Secret Diggings.— Two miles south of La Porte is Secret Diggings, on the 
same channel and with similar gravel. The chief claim there is that of King- 
dom & Co., who have about a dozen old claims. They employ 50 men and use 
2,500 inches of water. The tunnel through which they wash cost $100,000, and 
is 1,500 feet long. In 1866 they took out $130,000 and divided $94,000, and 
that was the best yield the place ever had. This year the company have done 
as much Avork, but have not divided a dollar. The pipe used by Kingdom & 
Co. cost them $15,000. The claim is 80 feet deep, and will last many years. 

Poverty Hill, a mile and a half below Secret Diggings, on the same old chan- 
nel, has been worked on a small scale for 10 years, but the place is now to be 
supplied with water, and will probably become important. There is gravel 
enough there to last for 50 years. 

Poet Wixe. — At Port Wine the old channel is worked by drifting, and the 
]->rincipal claims are those of the Eagle, Union, Montecristo, Indian Queen, Erie, 
Sailor, Manzanita, Bunker Hill, and Pioneer companies. 

The Eagle claim employs about a dozen men, all shareholders, and used to 
pay very largely. 

The Indian Queen employs 15 men and has a tunnel 2,000 feet long. 

The Union employs 40 men, all shareholders, and the tunnel is to be 3,000 
feet long when finished. 

The Montecristo employs 40 men, all shareholders. The dirt is hoisted through 
an incline by an engine, and water for washing is pumped up. 

The Erie employs 10 or 12 men. 

The Sailor has four or five men at work. 

Nothing is done in the Manzanita claim. 

The Bunker Hill employs eight men. 

The Pioneer has four men. 

Little Grass Valley. — The first place north of La Porte where there is any 
mining, on the same channel, is Little Grass Valley, three miles distant on the 
north "side of the same ridge, between Eabbit creek and south fork of Feather 
river. The claims there have been worked on a small scale for ten years, but 
the ground is not rich, and the cutting of tunnels is very expensive. Most of 
the claims are worked by drifting. It is probable that Little Grass Valley will 
become a prominent mining town in time. Most of the gravel is covered by a 
bed of lava 300 feet deep. 

Gibsonville, seven miles from La Porte, used to be an important hydraulic camp, 
but now the claims are worked by drifting, and the yield has fallen off very much. 

Spanish Ranch is 25 miles from La Porte, on the ridge between the South 
Feather and the IMiddle Feather rivers. The gravel is 100 feet deep, and the 
claims are worked by piping- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 167 

Nortli of Little Grass Valley is Union Valley, where there are two piping 
claims, with banks 40 feet deep. Washing has been in progress four years, 
but there are portions of the bank that do not pay well, and, as water is not to 
be had most of the 3'ear, the companies will work by drifting next year, and see 
whether a better result can be obtained in that W'ay. 

Twelve miles west of Saw Pit Flat is Hungarian Hill, where there are three 
piping and two drifting claims. The tunnels run 400 feet in the bed-rock, to 
drain the pay to the bottom. Twenty-five men are employed, and the averagf^ 
pay is about $8 to the man per d«ay. 

Badger Hill is three miles west of Hungarian Hill, and has four piping and 
live drifting companies ; the yield is about $5 per day to the man. 

Four miles northwestward from Badger Hill is Eagle Gulch, where six com- 
panies, with six men in each, are drifting, and all in pa3^ It is supposed that 
most of the claims will be worked out within two years. 

Forty miles north of Quincy are the Grizzly Creek diggings, w'here 40 men 
are employed in piping. The claims are 50 feet deep, and the gravel is all 
quartz. The w-idth of the channel has not been ascertained. 

Saw Pit Flat. — Saw Pit Flat is on a ridge running down from Pilot Peak, 
The claims are all worked by drifting, and the place has no ditch, so washing is 
only possible from April to June, while the snow is melting. The extraction 
of gold was commenced here about six years ago, and there has been a steady 
increase in the production, with a probability that it will continue for some years. 
The pay dirt is reached through tunnels that cost at least $20,000 and three 
years' time to complete them. 

The New York Company has been taking out gravel about 15 months, and 
have obtained $30,000 from it. There are 12 men at work, all shareholders. 

The Eagle Company have been in pay four years, and have taken out $26,000. 
Eight or nine men are emploj^ed. 

The Union claim has 12 men, and has been yielding pay fom* years. 

Those are the only companies that have taken out pay. 

The Buckeye Company have reached pay, but have not taken any out as yet. 

Several tunnels are being cut at Washington Hill, a mile distant, on the other 
side of the ridge. Two companies, the American and the Washington, are in 
pay. 

The Eureka mine, in American valley, is 1,800 feet long, on a vein runnnig 
northeast and southwest, dipping northeast at an angle of 45°, and varying in 
width from 5 to 25 feet. The main pay chimney is 250 feet long, horizontally, 
and it dips southwest at an angle of 52° ; but at a depth of 300 feet it seems to 
bend to the northeast. There are many varieties of quartz — some white, some 
blue, some rose-colored, and some dark brown. All the rock from the pay chim- 
ney is worked, and it has yielded from $10 to $30, except near the surface, where 
it was much richer. The present average at 300 feet from the surface is from 
$14 to $15. The foot wall is granite and the hanging wall hard slate. There 
are seven per cent, of sulphurets in the rock. 

There are two mills, one of 12 and the other of 16 stamps, both driven by 
water derived from an artificial lake, and they are situated three-quarters of a 
mile from the mine. The ore is transported on a rail-track. 

The gold is amalgamated in the mortar and on copper aprons, and the tailings 
are caught in a dam and saved for futui-e working. There are not less than 
10,000 tons collected. 

Besides the stamp mills there are three Chile mills of cut stone, each wheel 
being nine feet in diameter and two in width, of granite. The bed-stones are 
five feet in diameter and a foot and a half thick. The wheels wear down so as 
to become useless in three years ; and, in proportion to the power used, they do 
not grind half so much as stamps. About once in three months the bed-stone 
must be picked down, so that it will grind well. 



168 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



The snow lies seven inoutlis in the year at the mills and on the track, and for 
five months the mill must lie idle for lack of rock. The mills might be moved 
to the mine itself, so as to be immediately at the month of a new tunnel that 
might be cut to strike the lode 400 feet below the present workings, at a length 
of 1,800 feet. The mills could then run the whole year, and might be driven 
by steam, or perhaps by the waters of Jamison creek. 

Not less than 8300,000 have been expended in improvements, all derived from 
the mine. The total yield is variouslv stated, by those who have had good oppor- 
tunities for knowing, at from $1,400,000 to $1,600,000. 

The mine was discovered by a party of adventurers who, in 1850, were on the 
search for Gold lake. The mountain side was covered with float quartz, and 
the prospectors took up claims 20 feet square. The Eureka Company, the first 
one incorporated for mining purposes in California, began operations in the spring 
of 1851, and since then the mine has paid continuously. The total dividends 
previous to 1865 were $250,000. 

Besides the 1,800 feet on the Eureka lode there are 2,000 feet on other lodes. 

In early days much of the mine was leased to Mexicans and others, who 
worked wdtli arrastras and paid one-third of the gross yield. At one time 100 
arrastras were running on the Eureka rock. 

Mammoth. — Adjoining the Eureka, on the south, is the Mammoth, 1,200 feet 
long. The vein is very variable in size and quality in this claim, changing 
suddenly from a few inches to 20 feet in thickness, and then back again, and 
from very poor to very rich. The quartz is white and brittle, and is mixed with 
slate, so that much assorting is necessary. There is one chimney, 20 feet long 
horizontally, and 10 feet thick, nearly vertical, and it goes down with nearly 
nnifomi size. A depth of 200 feet has been reached, and drifts have been run 
200 feet on the vein. The average yield has been about $12, and the total yield 
$400,000. 

There is a 12-stamp mill driven by water. The gold is caught by amalga- 
mation in the mortar and on copper aprons, and the blanket tailings are worked 
in Chile mills. 

Seventy-six. — The Seventy-six Company are at work on a vein or branch 
vein, varying in thickness from four to 18 inches, and nearly horizontal for a 
distance of 150 feet from the surface, and at that distance it turns down. The 
lode is supposed to be the Eureka, or a branch of it. The assorted rock is packed 
on mules, at a cost of $6 per ton from the mine to three aiTastras. Nothing is 
crushed unless it will yield $40 per ton. The average value of the rock is 
probably $18. 

Crescent. — The Crescent mine, in Indian valley, 15 miles from Quincy, and 
7S from Owenville, includes claims on three lodes as follows, viz : 



Name. 


Length, 


Course. 


Dip. 


Crescent 


3,000 
3,200 
2,200 


East and west . .. . 


North 35° 


Horseshoe 


Northwest and southeast 


Southwest 60° 


Pet 


North 80° east 


South 60° 









The walls are of feldspathic granite, according to Professor Ashburner, who 
made a report on it, and the quartz, so far as the work has advanced, is a reddish 
brown, with occasional masses of a bluish white color, enclosing midecomposed 
sulphurets of iron and of lead. 

The Crescent vein varies in width from five to 50 feet, averages about 15, 
and appears to be the main lode of the cluster on which this mine is located. 
Six pay chimneys have been found, and two have been worked on this vein. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 169 

The eastern is 108 feet long, and the western 100 feet. Both have been stopped 
out to a depth of 120 feet, with an average width of five feet of pa_y, yiehling 
from $13 to $18 per ton. Tlie deepest workings on this vein are 140 feet from 
the surface, and drifts have been run 360 feet long. 

The average width of the Horseshoe vein is about 14 feet, but the walls are 
not well defined. The quartz is harder than in the Orescent, and the pay has 
varied from $7 to $42, averaging from $15 to $18. There are two pay chimneys; 
the western 120 feet long at the surface, and 200 feet long, 200 feet below "the 
surface, and the western 100 feet long at the first level, and 125 feet at the third. 
The pay chimneys dip a little to the east. A depth of 280 feet has been reached 
on this vein. The Pet vein has a pay chimney 50 feet long, and four feet thick, 
and the quartz yields $100 per ton. 

The Union vein runs into the Horseshoe, and the intersection is rich, yielding 
$37 per ton. 

The yield of the mine from November, 1862, till June 9, 1867, was $667,213 59, 
obtained from 40,000 tons, showing an average of $16 68 per ton. 

Dividends have been paid to the amount of $100,000, and $150,000 have been 
spent in improvements. 

The stock of ore in sight is estimated at 14,000 tons, to average $11 40 per 
ton, and 20,000 to average $7 or $8, 

There is a 32-stamp mill driven by an engine vnt\\ an 18-incti cylinder, with 
40 inches of stroke. 

The stamps weigh 810 pounds, make 60 blows per minute, and fall 10 inches. 

The gold is amalgamated in the mortar, and on copper-plate, and the blanket 
sands are ground in a Wheeler and Randall pan. The blankets catch one-seventh 
of all the quartz crushed, and the blanket sands yield one-twelfth of all the gold 
saved. 

There is a hoisting engine, Avhich is supplied with steam from the mill boiler. 

A 24-stamp mill was built in 1863, but was sold to another company. The 
present was erected in 1865. Thirty-two men are employed, eight at the mill, 
and 24 at the mine. There are 14 underground miners, who get $3 per day, 
and board themselves; five underground carmen, who get $2 75 without board, 
or $50 per month with board ; two rock breakers, and four feeders, $2 75 per 
day ; one amalgamator, $2 75, and another, (a boy,) $2 25 per day ; one engineer, 
$100 per month ; another, $4 12 per day ; another $3 30 per day, Avithout board ; 
and a fourth, $45 per month, with board. 

Whitney. — The Whitney mine is on the Crescent lode, one mile southeast 
of the Crescent mine. The com'se there is west 15° north, and the dip about 80° 
south. 

The foot wall is granite, and the hanging wall slate. The vein varies in width 
from 15 to 30 feet, and the average is 20 feet. The walls are smooth, and well 
defined from the surface, and the quartz on the walls is in places polished smooth. 

The quartz is soft, is taken out without blasting, and all in the pay chimneys 
is crushed. It is extracted through a tunnel 100 feet long, and the extraction 
and transportation to the mill do not cost more than 75 cents per ton. The average 
yield is $12 per ton, and the total yield has been $68,000. There is a 24-stamp 
mill, which began work in December, 1866. 

The gold is caught by amalgamation in the mortar and on the copper aprons, 
and the blanket sands are ground in a Wheeler and Randall pan. 

Golden Gate. — The Golden Gate mine at Round valley is on a vein four 
feet wide, running northeast and southwest, and cutting across the slates. A 
depth of 60 feet has been reached, and drifts have been run 70 feet in pay all 
the way. The average yield has been $22. There is an eight-stamp mill, driven 
by water. It began to ran about the 1st of June of this year, before which time 
the quartz was worked in a custom mill. 

Dixie and Bullfkog. — In Dixie canon there are three custom mills, one 



170 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

of eight, one of six, and one of four stam]3S. All were erected to work claims 
wliicli did not pay. 

The Bullfrog mine at Rush creek is on a vein eight feet wide, running cast 
and west. A depth of 130 feet has been reached, and drifts have been run 200 
feet on the lode. The quartz yields $8 gross and $3 net. The mill has 12 stamps, 
goes- by steam, and was built in 1865. 

•Light A'sd Callahan. — Light's mine, in Genesee valley, is on a vein two 
feet and a half wide, running east and west. The quartz is taken out of an open 
cut, 40 feet long and 30 feet deep, and the yield is $18 per ton. The mill has 
eight stamps, goes by water, and was built this year. 

Callahan's mine, in Indian valley, has been opened to a depth of 100 feet, and 
to the same length, in pay all the way. Some of the rock crushed at Custom 
mills has yielded $12 50. 

Premium and Sparks. — The Premium mine has been opened by a shaft 125 
feet deep, and by a drift of 50 feet. Some rich specimens have been obtained, 
and rock crushed at custom mills yielded $19. 

The Sparks and Halsted mine at Granite Basin is on a vein eight feet wide. 
A 12-stamp steam mill is going up. 

Indian Valley. — The Indian Valley mine is on a vein six feet wide, running 
east and west, and dipping to the south. A depth of 220 feet has been reached, 
and drifts have been run 200 feet on the vein. The rock is hard, and yields 
$18 per ton. There are two mills ; one of 16 stamps, driven by water, and another 
of 12 stamps, driven by steam. The mills have been running since 1864, and 
the general yield per week has been $2,200. 

Greenville. — At Greenville the Union and McClellan Company are working 
a vein two feet and a half wide. They have gone down 190 feet, and run 160 
on the vein. There are two pay chimneys, each about 30 feet long, dipping to 
the west. The company has two mills, each of eight stamps, but the supply of 
quartz is not sufficient to keep them running more than half the time. The 
company arc building a mill of 16 stamps to work a claim on the Caledonian 
lode. 



SECTION XIV. 

ALPINE COUNTY. 

This county, situate on the summit and eastern slope of the SieiTa Nevada, 
and on spurs making out from the latter, is, as its name denotes, rugged, moun- 
tainous, and truly Alpine in its external featm-es and situation. The Sien-a, 
along its western border, rises to an elevation of nearly 10,000 feet. Silver 
mountain, a short range running north and south across its centre, is nearly 
as elevated. Even the lowest valleys have an altitude of scarcely less than 
5,000 feet, many of them lying much higher. As a consequence the climate 
rn the winter is rigorous, the snow falling early and lying on the mountains, 
where it falls to a great depth, until midsummer. Even in the lowest and 
most sheltered valleys it usually falls to the depth of several inches, lying some- 
times for two or three months in the winter. The weather dming the summer, 
without being excessively hot, is warm ; that of the later spring and the fall 
months is delightful. Showers are more frequent here during the dry season than 
west of the Sierra, or in the State of Nevada, lying to the east. Owing to this, 
vegetation keeps green until a later period in the summer. The grass, of which 
there is a good deal, affords by its succulence excellent pasturage. There is 
but little agricultural land in the county, though a number of small vallej^s pro- 
duce fine crops of hay, grain, and vegetables. Almost the entire region is cov- 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 171 

erecl witli heavy forests of pine and fir, from wliicli- immense quantities of lumber 
and fii-ew'ood are made every season. Five million feet of saw-logs and 6,000 
cords of wood are floated down the Carson river annually for the use of the 
Comstock mines. On the SieiTa Nevada, within the limits of this county, are a 
number of small lakes of the greatest purity and coldness, the waters of which 
are supplied by the melting snows. These lakes are the sources of several con- 
siderable streams, the Carson river, running north into Nevada, and the Stanislaus 
and Mokelumnej west into California, heading here. Besides these there are 
many creeks, tributaries to the Carson, which, with the latter, supply a veiy 
extensive water power and means of irrigation. Alpine contains a number of 
small towns, of which Kongsburg, the county seat, Monitor, and Markleeville 
are the principal. Tlie population of the county is about 2,000. There are 
three quartz mills in this county, canying 26 stamps, and costing in the aggre- 
gate about $100,000 ; 13 saw-mills, carrying 19 saws, and having a capacity to 
cut 112,000 feet daily; aggregate cost about $100,000. Considering its small 
population and rugged surface, this county is well supplied with good wagon 
roads, having one leading across the mountains connecting the principal towns 
with the Big Tree road running to Stockton, and several others, built at heavy 
expense ; one of which runs to Carson valley, there uniting with the road to 
Virginia City, and also with that leading over the Sierra to Sacramento via 
Placerville. The inhabitants of Alpine have displayed much enterprise in road 
building, 'having, for their means, expended more money and labor on these 
improvements than any other community in the State. The first silver-bearing 
lodes were discovered in this region in 1861, since which time 14 different dis- 
tricts have been organized within the limits of the countj^ in some of which a 
large number of ledges have been located and much exploratory work done, 
while in others the reverse is the case. The metalliferous veins here are usually 
of good size, many of them very large, being from 20 to 80 feet thick on the 
surface, and occasionally much larger. The most of them, however, range from 
G to 10 feet in thickness, running in a generally north and south direction, with 
a trend to the southeast in conformity with the longitudinal axis of the Sierra. 
The vein-stone consists of quartz and carbonate of lime. The country rock is 
composed of porphyry, granite, trap, and slate. None of the lodes cany rich 
ores on or near the surface, necessitating deep development before any considera- 
ble bodies of a sufficiently high grade for milling can be obtained ; a circum- 
stance that has tended greatly to retard the advancement of the mining interest 
in this county, capitalists overlooking the masterly character of the lodes and 
the imrivalled advantages for the cheap reduction of the ores enjoyed here, and 
investing in mines much less favorably situated simply because they canied 
small quantities of rich ore in then- upper portions. Left thus without aid, the 
miners of this county have not been able, with their limited means, to develop 
more than a few of their claims to a productive point, although a number of 
years have elapsed since operations were commenced here. Another evil has 
been the want of concentration of labor, then- efforts having been spent in 
attempts at operating too great a number of lodes, thereby defeating the thor- 
ough development of any. But besides these superficial and ineffectual labors, 
several works looking to deep exploration have been planned, some of which, 
though involving heavy expenditures of labor and money, have been earned 
almost to completion. ' The aggregate amount of tunnelling done in the county 
is very large, many of these works being from 500 to 1,000 feet long. Owing 
to the precipitous character of the mountains in which most of the lodes are 
situated, the method of their exploration by tunnels has been generally adopted. 
Their declivities in many places are so steep that a depth beneath the crop- 
pings^ is attained equal to the length of the tunnel when it reaches the ledge. 
This is frequently the case in the Silver Mountain district, where a number of 
tunnels, some of them well advanced, are expected to tap the lodes for which 



172 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEREITORIES 

tliey are being driven at depths varying from 1,000 to 1,200 feet, Avliich will also 
he about their horizontal length. The mountains near Konigsburg, in wliich a 
great many lodes are situated, vary in height from 2,000 to 3,000 feet. The main 
ranges a little further back are much higher. The ores of this county are 
very diversified, canying, besides the precious metals, copper, lead, antimony, 
arsenic, &:c., a combination that renders them refractory and costly of reduction : 
roasting and careful amalgamation, and, in some cases, smelting, are processes 
necessary to success. The croppings gencrall}^ show by assay free gold, together 
■\vitli gold and silver in combination with iron pyrites, which latter gives place to 
copper as depth is attained. Some veins contain so large a percentage of this metal 
as to justly bring their contents under the class of argentiferous copper ores, 
which can be successfully treated only by smelting, for which there exist here 
the greatest facilities, wood being nearly everywhere abundant. Much of this ore, 
it is believed, contains enough of copper to defray the entire cost of mining and 
reduction. After much experimenting with a view to determining the best mode 
for treating the ores of this county, this end is thought to have been recently 
attained, and the product of bullion, though still small, is steady and constantly 
increasing, amounting at the present to between $7,000 and $8,000 monthly. 
From the energy disjjlayed in efforts to overcome the rebellious elements pres- 
ent in these ores, and to fiu'ther the development of the mines, there is reason 
for believing that this amount will be increased the coming year. The most efficient 
plan, and that at present adopted, for the management of these ores is, after kiln- 
drying and crushing, to roast and then amalgamate them by the Freiburg barrel pro- 
cess. The following prices paid by mill companies for ore indicates its value for pur- 
poses of reduction : Kustel & Uznay contracted with the Morning Star Company 
last year to pay them $17 50 for 10,000 tons of ore from their mine at Mogul, the 
purchasers extracting the ore at their own cost. The Washington Mill Company 
have contracted to pay $100 per ton for 100 tons of first-class ore to be delivered 
from the IXL mine, in the Silver ]\Iountain district. The ores from the Tarshish 
mine, near the town of Monitor, are found to yield, with careful treatment, over $200 
per ton; and it is thought there are other lodes here the ores from which, by a 
careful selection, will turn out nearly as well. The Tarshish lode is of large 
dimensions, the tunnel now in course of excavation having penetrated it 90 feet 
without reaching the back wall. The ores, a large portion of which are of high 
grade, lie in bunches or chimneys, and, if developed to its fullest capacity, there 
is no doubt but this mine could be made to jneld ore enough to keep a large- 
sized mill in steady supply. There is at present much activity in several 
mining districts in this county, work having been resumed upon a number 
of claims for some time neglected, and being pushed with increased energy 
upon others ; and there can be no question but the business of mining will make 
greater progress iii future than it has heretofore done iu this region. In the 
matter of wood and water there is not a county in the State better situated than 
Alpine ; the facilities for the cheap exploitation of the mineral lodes are great ; 
while freights, owing to its proximity to the principal points of sup^Dly, are 
much lower than in almost any other raining district east of the Sierra. The 
water power in this county is ample for the propulsion of several thousand stamps, 
while timber, both for fuel and lumber, is present in inexhaustible supply. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 173 

SECTION XV. 
LASSEN COUNTY. 

This county, erected from Plumas in 1864, lies upon and to the east of the 
Sierra Nevada mountains. It is named after Peter Lassen, one of the pioneer 
settlers of northeastern California, who was killed by the Indians in 1859 while 
exploring the northwestern portions of Nevada for silver mines, then supposed 
to exist in that region. The county contains but a small population — only about 
1,500. It was organized because of the isolated situation of the inhabitants, 
separated by the SieiTa from the county seat of Plumas. The votes polled in 
1864 numbered 554; the value of real and personal property now in the county 
is estimated at about $800,000 — a largo amount, considering the limited num- 
ber of people it contains. The western portion of the county is covered by the 
SieiTa Nevada ; tlie remainder consists of rugged and barren hills, sage plains, 
and alkali flats, with a small extent of rich valley lands. The Sierra is heavily 
timbered quite to its base. Heading in these mountains are a number of fine 
streams, of which Susan river. Willow, and Elision creeks are the principal. They 
afford extensive propulsive power and water for imgation, to both whicli uses they 
are largely applied. These streams run into Honey lake, a shallow body of water 
lying on the eastern border of the county, and wliich, though it covered a large area 
some years since, is now nearly dried up. It has no outlet, and its water, or what 
little is left, is slightly alkaline to the taste. Along its shores are one or two spots 
of tule marsh ; the rest is high and barren. Nearly all the valuable land in the 
county lies in Honey Lake valley, a fertile and well-watered tract of some 50,000 
or 60,000 acres, lying between the base of the SieiTa and the lake. It is all 
taken up and enclosed, the greater part being inider cultivation or appropriated 
to hay-making and pasturage. JMuch stock is kept here, besides large quantities 
of grain "of every description raised annually. Wheat, barley, rye, and corn grow 
luxuriantly, and, with irrigation, yield largely. Vegetables thrive and most kinds 
of fruits mature without difficulty. Cattle here require neither stabling nor fodder 
during the winter; even work animals keep in good condition feeding on the rich 
succulent grasses of the valley. Owing to the abundance of good timber close 
at hand, the most of the fencing is made of posts and boards, and the houses of 
the settlers for the same reason are large and substantial. Good lumber can 
be obtained at the mills here at about $20 per thousand. In Long valley, a 
small portion of which is in this count}', there is also a little good agricultural and 
pasture land. Honey Lake valley received its name from the quantity of honey 
dew, a sweet and viscid substance precipitated from the atmosphere during the 
spring and early summer months. The climate in this valley is extremely mild 
and agreeable ; the heat of the summer is moderate, and but little snow falls 
during the winter. There is a group of hot springs near the head of the valley, 
some of which are very large, and one so deep that its bottom has never been 
reached by sounding. It boils with such fury that the water leaps several 
feet high. The others are not so hot, though all are impregnated with u-ou, 
alum, soda, or other mineral substances. The only town of any size in the 
county is Susanville, the county seat, in which there is a flourishing school, a 
church, and many large and well-built houses. The county contains seven saw- 
mills, running 11 saws and capable of cutting 50,000 feet of lumber daily. 
The}' are propelled by water, and cost in the aggregate over $50,000. There 
are also two flour mills, having three run of stone and capacity for grinding 90 
ban-els of flour daily. They are driven by water and cost about $12,000. 
There are 20 miles of water ditches, built at a cost of $25,000, and several wagon 
roads within the limits of the county, leading over the Sierra into California. 
Lassen contains no quartz mills, though there are numerous ore-bearing veins of 
both the useful and the precious metals in the comity. The most of these are 



174 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

found in the jnountains adjacent to and west of Honey Lake valley, where placer 
diggings and auriferous quartz w^ere discovered in 1862, at which time the fonner 
were quite extensively worked and paid fair wages. Some of these quartz veins 
also carry silver, and various working tests made on a small scale tend to show 
that these veins may yet be profitably worked on a large scale, as the ores can 
be cheaply reduced, owing to an abundance of wood and water in the vicinity of 
the mines. 



SECTION XVI. 
STANISLAUS, FRESNO, TULARE, MERCEDE, AND SAN JOAQUIN COUNTIES. 

Stanislaus has a sectional area of 1,228 square miles, consisting chiefly of 
agricultural lands. Population in 1860, 2,245; estimated in 1866, 3,460; 
assessed valuation of real and personal property in 1866, $1,026,216.* 

The principal towns are Knight's Ferry, tlae county seat, on the Stanislaus 
river, where it debouches on the main San Joaquin valley, and Lagrange. Tlie 
business of the county is mostly centred in these towns. At Knight's Ferry 
there arc valuable quarries of sandstone. The freighting business of this county 
amounts to 4,444^ tons.t 

Feesno. — This county, to the south of Mariposa and Merced, in sectional 
area is one of the largest counties in the State, reaching from the Coast range to 
the eastern boundaries of the State, containing 9,240 square miles ; of this about 
444,800 acres are agricultural lands of superior quality. The population of 
Fresno in 1860 was 4,605; estimated in 1866, 1,680; assessed valuation, 
$811,716, in 1865; in 1866, $826,000. 

The copper mines in the Hamilton district, near the Chowchilia river, are no 
doubt extensive. The lode is clearly defined for ten miles with croppings of 
great richness. The shipments of copper from this district will, it is believed, 
in time rival that from Copperopolis. At present the shipments are light, as the 
cost of transportation to San Francisco is $80 per ton, which makes copper 
mining in this county unprofitable at present. With facilities for transportation 
by way of Knight's Ferry, and thence by the proposed Stockton and Copper- 
opolis railroad to Stockton, copper ores will eventually bear shipment. 

The down freights from this county, principally from the Chowchilia mines, 
were, in 1865, 1,800 tons. Two other mines shipped by way of the San Joaquin 
120 tons per month, but there is little doing now, owing to the depreciation in 
the business of copper mining. The up freights to Fort Miller are 875 tons per 
annum ; the total freights to and from this county probably amount to 2,675 tons. 

Tulare. — Tlie county of Tulare, to the south of Fresno, contained in 1860 
a population of 4,638; estimated in 1866, 4,890; an assessed valuation in 1865 
of $1,306,380; in 1866, $1,299,379; agricultural products for 1865, $616,890; 
a sectional area of 7,181 square miles, of which about 200,604 acres are good 
agricultural lands, the rest mountain and tule lands. There are gold veins in 
this county which are now being developed, and which will increase the present 
freights to a large amount. The freights for 1865 were as follows: Up freights, 
2,750 tons; down freights, 409 tons; total, 3,159 tons. 

There is no outlet for the northern portion. 

Mercede. — West of Mariposa county lies Mercede, mostly an agricultural 
county, the central and western portion of which has, to some extent, an outlet 
on the San Joaquin river. Sectional area, 1,384 square miles; population in 
1860, 1,141; estimated in 1866, 1,980; real and personal property, $816,318; 

* Pacific Coast Directory. t W. C. Watson's report. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 175 

principal shipping points for np freig-lit, Merced .Falls and Snellingsville, sis 
miles below. Here, as well as at Knight's Ferry and Lagrange, on the Tuo- 
lumne, is a large amount of water power, capable of being used at a little expense, 
and which will at no distant day be turned to good account. Freighting business 
of this county, 562 tons.* 

Sai^ JoAQurN". — The sectional area of this county is 1,452 square miles, 
(929,280 acres,) about one-third of which is agricultm-ai, the rest foot-hills 
and tule lands.t The agricultural products in 1864 amounted to $4,445,058; 
assessed valuation in 1865, $14,986,615; population in 1860, 8,434; estimated 
population in 1866, 17,140; real and personal property in 1866, $5,275,016.| 



SECTION IVII. 

INYO COUNTY. 

This county was erected in 1866. The territory was taken from Tulare and 
Mono counties, and lies on the border of the Great Mohave Desert, east of the Sierra 
Nevada range of mountains. With the exception of a considerable strip of arable 
land along Owen's river, and some fertile spots at the entrance of the ravines 
that make up into the Sierra, the country is arid and baiTen. Except the 
portion lying on the Sien*a, and some scattered groves of pifion on the range 
east of Owen's valley, the country is also destitute of timber. The only water, 
save a few small springs, consists of that flowing through Owen's river and the 
streams that, falling from the mountains to the west, feed it or run into the lake 
that receives its waters. Owen's valley, over a hundred miles long in its whole 
extent, and from 10 to 15 wide, lies along the western border of the county, 
having the Sierra Nevada mountains on the west and the Monache chain on the 
cast. These mountains cover three-fourths of its area and give to the county a 
rugged and diversified aspect. The tillable land along the river is not more 
than a mile and a half wide, but as it reaches the entire length of the valley 
it amounts in the aggregate to 60,000 or 70,000 acres, the most of it very 
fertile and capable, with in-igation, of gi'owing every kind of fruit, grain, and 
vegetables in the greatest luxuriance. This strip of laud is covered in its natural 
state with a coarse, wiry grass, not fit for making first quahty of hay, though the 
cultivated grasses could easily be domesticated here. They are found to grow 
readily when planted after the manner of grain. The rest of the valley, like 
the suiTounding country, is nothing but a sage barren, producing, besides the 
artemesia, only a little bunch grass, with a few shrubs almost as worthless as the 
sage itself. The river, running through the middle of the valley, is deep, nar- 
row, and crooked, and has a swift cuiTCut, which, with its generally marshy banks, 
renders fording difficult. In the sunmier, during the melting of the snow on the 
mountains, it ovei-floAvs its banks in many places, particularly the tule lands, of 
which there are good deal along its borders. The mountain streams, after flowing 
out into the valley a short distance, spread out over the siuface, irrigating it and 
producing large patches of clover. These spots were the favorite abodes of the 
Indians, who planted a variety of roots, grasses, and other vegetable comestibles, 
which they irrigated, conveying the water through small ditches and channels 
formed with mud, often quite a distance. In the possession of the whites they 
will soon be converted into luxuriant gardens, orchards, and grain fields. Along 
Owen's valley there are already a large number of fine, well stocked, and culti- 
vated farms, man}^ thousand bushels of grain having been raised there, besides 
butter and cheese made for several years past. Five huncked thousand pounds 

* Watson's report. + W. C. Watson. t Pacific Coast Directory. 



176 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

of grain were raised last j^ear, and still larger quantities tliis. These farms witiv 
proper culture produce as abundantly as the richest valley lands elsewhere in the 
State, the yield of wheat and barley being often at the rate of 40 and 50 bushels to 
the acre. Cattle keep fat here running in- the pastures the year round, no stabling 
or fodder being required. The population of the county, for several years greatly 
diminished on account of Indian difficulties, is now about 2,000, ha\ang increased 
largely Avithin the past six or eight months on account of the very flattering 
prospects of the mines. The assessable property is estimated at three-quarters 
of a million dollars, and there is no doubt but both the population and wealth 
of the county will be largely augmented hereafter. A number of towns have 
been laid out, some in the vicinity of the mines and others in Owen's valley, 
but none of them have yet attained any great size. Bend City, San Carlos, 
and Independence are in the valley, Kearsarge City being 10 miles west of 
Independence and near the famous mines of that name. Lake City, laid out in 
1862, is at the south end of Owen's Big Lake. It contained quite a population 
at one time, but is now" nearly deserted. Bend City and San Carlos also contain 
fewer inhabitants than they did several years since. The late accessions to the 
population are mostly in the mining districts. Independence, the county seat, 
is a growing and thrifty town, with a school and other evidences of progress. 
Fort Independence, the military post near by, adds much to the business of the 
place, there being at all times several companies of troops stationed here. The 
fort is a well-built, comfortable structure, with well-improved grounds and out- 
buildings abwut it. Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the Sierra Nevada, and 
claimed to be the most elevated land in the United States, is over 15,000 feet 
high, and lies within the limits of Inyo county. There are several other peaks 
in the neighborhood ranging from 10,000 to 14,000 in height. Snow lies on 
some of these peaks all summer. The whole range is covered nearly to its 
base dming the winter season, though but little snow lies in the valley during 
the coldest weather. The summers here are hot, the thennometer standing much 
of the time at 100° in the shade, but throughout the rest of the year the 
weather is mild and pleasant. But little rain or snow falls, except on the 
mountains, rendering the count}^ extremely arid and making irrigation necessary 
for the growth of the crops. For introducing Avater upon the land many small 
ditches have been dug, also some of larger dimensions : one, the San Carlos, 
taking water from Owen's river, is 15 miles long and cost $30,000. There 
are two saw-mills and nine quartz mills in the county. The former are driven 
by water, are capable of cutting about 10,000 feet of lumber daily, and cost 
$7,000. Seven of the quartz mills are driven by steam and two by water 
power. The whole carry about 100 stamps and cost nearly $400,000. Some 
of these mills were erected several years ago, at a time when the proper mode of 
ti'eating the ores in this region were but ill understood, and as a consequence 
proved failures. Most of them gave up after a few ineffectual efforts, and have 
remained idle ever since. Those put up more recently are supplied with the neces- 
sary appliances for the successful management of the ores, and have mostly been 
operated with satisfactory results. Besides these mills there are about 20 arras- 
tras running in the county. One flour mill has lately been built in the vallej^, 
and the grain crop being large, will no doubt do a prosperous business. This 
county is reached from California by several good roads 5 one from Los Angeles, 
which entering Owen's valley from the south, is unimpeded by snow at all sea- 
sons. With the exception of a few miles of desert it is a good road, nearly 
level, and the one over which most of the freight has heretofore been taken in. 
Another coming in from the State of Nevada enters this valley at its northern 
extremity, and, though most employed for transporting goods intended for the 
northern parts of the county, is not passable for teams on account of snow dming 
the winter. The other road, via Walker's Pass, enters the valley centrally, and 
tliough never seriously obstructed by snow, is not much used by teams on account 



"WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 177 

of its steepness in places and tlic great distance goods Iiave to be hauled on this 
route. Eight or 10 different mining districts have first and last been erected 
within the limits of this county, in all of ^\hich there are many metalliferous lodes 
of value, though working tests, owing to the extremely rebellious character of 
the ores, have not as yet proved wholly satisfactory. The ores here consist 
mostly of argentiferous galena, and can be successfully reduced only b}- smelting, 
a method now generally adopted in most of the districts. The mines arc s5t- 
csated in the two main ranges of mountains iimning in a northerly and soutli- 
erly coTU'se across the county, the SieiTa on the west, and the Monachi or Coso 
range on the east. In the latter is located the Lone Pine district, abounding 
with veins varying in thickness from one to 40 feet, nearly all carrying a good 
grade of ore, much of it yielding, by the rude smelling process now employed, 
from $50 to $100 per ton. At present only the richest ores are worked and a 
large percentage of the metal is lost, calling for more economical and effectual 
modes of treatment. That these will soon be supplied seems probable, as the 
attention of scientific miners and capitalists is now^ being directed to that quarter. 
The ores here are to be had in great quantity, and as population is flowing into 
the district, supplying an abundance of available labor, there is no doubt but 
the product of bullion will be large within a few years. In the other districts, 
except Ivearsarge, and one or two others, there is but little work being done, 
though, as stated, they all contain valuable gold, silver, and copper-bearing 
lodes. The Kearsarge district is situate on the eastern declivity of the Sierra, 
here very steep, and at a point about 12 miles west from Fort Independence. 
The lodes here, which are from two to five feet thick, cany a fair percentage 
of silver, which is their predominating metal. The lode of the Kearsarge 
Company, the most thoroughl}^ explored, contains ore of good average grade. 
This company, after erecting a 10-stamp mill, met w'ith difficulty in saving the 
metal known to exist in their ore ; hence they have been obliged to delay ranning 
their mill until by varied experimenting they have determined the best method 
for its treatment. It is confidently expected that liberal returns will be secured, 
as there can be no question as to the richness of the ore, A tunnel 100 feet in 
length has been run to the ledge of this company, opening it to a depth of 180 
feet beneath the croppings, the side of the mountain here approaching so near the 
perpendicular. Other companies are at work near the Kearsarge opening their 
claims, all of which afford encouraging prospects, and as there are here wood and 
water in abundance this may in time become a prosperous and productive dis- 
trict. In addition to gold and silver, this county contains many other metals 
and minerals, such as iron, copper, sulphur, and salt, the latter existing about a 
small lake in Owen's valley, in such quantities that it can always be procured 
there at a merely nominal cost. 



SECTION XYIII. 

MONO COUNTY. 

This county, like Lassen and Alpine, lies upon and to the east of the Sierra 
Nevada. It is very elevated, and constitutes the water-shed between the basin of 
Carson and of Owen's rivers, both of which streams, though running in opposite 
directions, have then- sources in this county. As a consequence, the climate is 
rigorous, snow falling in the winter to a great depth, even in the valleys, and ice 
sometimes forming at night in the summer. There is a narrow belt oi alluvial 
land along several of the creeks falling from the Sierra into Mono lake, and a 
few thousand acres at the Big Meadows on Walker river, with some small patches 
elsewhere in the county; yet the amount of arable land it contains is small. 
12 



178 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

Some farming is done at cacli of these places. The crops pLanted are mostly 
potatoes and other vec^etables, which, with careful culture and irrigation, gen- 
erally matiu'e and yield well. A large amount of hay is cut every year at the 
Big Meadows. Aurora and the most of the mining camps in the county get a 
good share of their suppl}^ there. 

Mono contains about 1,000 inhabitants, scarcely as many as it did sixer seven 
years ago, when the placer mines gave employment to a large number of men. 
These mines, discovered in 1857, were worked for four or five years thereafter 
with much profit to such f.s held the better class of claims, the daily earnings 
varying from $5 to $20 to the hand. The Avorking seasons, however, were 
somewhat contracted, and the digging in many places deep, while the cost of 
living was high, whereby the net yearly savings were reduced to moderate 
rates. The mines lay in alluvium washed from tlie SieiTa and lodged in a field 
of enormous granite boulders, their area finally proving to be of no great extent, 
which, after the summer of 1861, led to their gradual abandonment. A town 
named ]\Ionovillo grew up at these diggings, which by the census of 1860 con- 
tained 900 inhabitants, the most of whom on the discovery of the silver lodes a'-^ 
Aurora, that year, removed to that place, to which also most of the buildings at 
]\Ionoville were afterwards transferred. ' For several years after some placer 
mining was still carried on, but at present there is scarcely anything being done 
at these diggings. There are, however, near them a number of small quartz lodes 
containing free gold. Some of these were worked in 1860, by means of an-astras, 
driven by water, and for a time good results were obtained ; but the pay streak 
in these lodes was very narrow, rendering it expensive to get out sufficient ore to 
keep the an-astras running, which led to a final cessation of work upon them. 
With mo)-c thorough development it is thought these veins could still be worked 
with remunerative results. There is Avater at hand for driving a considerable 
number of stamps. For supplying Avater to the placers a ditch 20 miles long 
TFas built in 1860, at an expense of $75,000, Avhich AA'ork might still be made 
vailable as a poAver for dri\ang machinery. 

Mono lake, the principal bod}^ of Avater in this county, having been elsCAvhere 
described, it only remains here to speak of the numerous streams falling from the 
Siena, some floAA'ing into the lake, and others uniting in the Big MeadoAVS and 
forming the east fork of Walker river. Many of them are large, and by their 
volume and fall create an immense Avater-poAver, a portioji of which, as they nm 
through the finest of timber lands, has been applied to the propulsion of machin- 
ery. JMono contains a great extent of pine and spruce forests, ranging along the 
Eastern slope and the foot-hills of the Siena. Those in the vicinity of the Big 
MeadoAA's are the most valuable. The trees here, though not extremely liyge, 
are straight and well formed. There are eight saAv-mills in the county, having 
an average capacity to cut 5,000 feet of lumber daily. They are mostly driven 
by steam, and cost from $2,000 to $10,000 each, or an aggregate of $35,000. 
A large quantity of lumber is made here every year, Avhich finds a market at 
Aurora and in the adjacent mining districts. There are three quartz mills in 
the county, tAVO in the Bodie district driven liy steam, and one at Hot Springs 
driven by Avater. The former carry, the one 16, and the other 12 stamps, and 
the latter four. The entire cost of these mills has been about $200,000. 

The only toAvn of any size in Mono is Bridgeport, the county seat. It is situate 
at the Big INIeadoAvs on the east fork of Walker liver, and is surrounded Avith 
fine agricultm-al and hay lands, Avith a stretch of excellent timber a short dis- 
tance back on the foot-hills of the Sierra. From Bridgeport to Aurora a good 
wao-on road has been ])uilt, also an expensive road across the mountains to Stock- 
ton, California. The vote in this county numbers a little over 300 ; the A'alue 
of real and personal property is estimated at $400,000. It contains a number 
of hot springs, one group, situate in the foot-hills on the road to Stockton, dis- 
charges a large volume of boifing AA'ater. Mono is not without valuable ore- 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 179 

bearing veins, botli of gold and silver. Some of these are described in the 
chapter on Esmeralda county, Nevada, being situate in the Blind Spring and 
other districts lying partly in that State, and partly in California. In the 
Bodie district, 10 miles east of the county seat, are some gold and silver-bearing 
lodes, several of Avhich are explored by means of tunnels, varying from 300 to 
800 feet in length. There are also two quartz mills in this cUstrict, both of 
which, having, as is supposed, overcome, after many ineffectual and costly trials, 
the difficulties met with in worldng the ores here, are now in a fair way of achiev- 
ing success. That there is some" fair grade ore in these lodes has been clearly 
shown, the only trouble having been to hit upon a proper mode for then- reduction. 
This having now been attained, and two well-appointed miEs placed upon the 
ground, it may reasonably bo expected that some bullion will be sent from this 
district the incoming year. Within the present year a new district named Castle 
Peak, lying a few miles southwest of Bridgeport, has been erected, a large and 
very rich gold-bearing lode having been found there. It lies immediately under 
and to the northeast of Castle Peak, one of the highest summits along this portion 
of the SieiTa. Very rich float rock had been obseiTcd here, which led to the 
prospecting of the locality and, after some time spent, to the final discovery of 
the lode mentioned. Placer mining had for some years been carried on along 
the streams below, with success, the gold found having been released from this 
large vein and earned by the water of these creeks, and deposited along their 
banks. The most of this mining has been done by Chinamen, a company of 
whom are still at work, realizing wages that to these people are satisfactor3^ The 
exploration of this recently discovered lode is now being prosecuted, and it gives 
promise of proving a good vein. It is situated at the line of contact between 
two favorable formations for tlie production of metal, granite and slate. Gold 
predominates in value, though the lode is also well charged with sulphm'ets of 
silver, and from assaj^s made it is calculated that the ore will yield by mill pro- 
cess, under the most inexpensive mode of treatment, from $40 to $60 per ton. 
The means essential to an economical reduction of ores prevail here, the mines 
being in the midst of stately forests, with two large creeks — Vhginia and Green 
— but a couple of miles distant, affording sufficient power to caiTy several hundred 
stamps. A large number of claims in addition to the original location have*been 
taken up on this ledge, and as some of the owners are possessed of energy and 
means, it is thought that operations will be initiated here the coming season. 
The erection of several mills has been detemiined upon, the work of exploration 
to go on meantime, and it is generally believed an active mining camp will spring 
up here next summer. 



SECTION XIX. 

MINING DITCHES. 

Ditches occupy an important place in the mining of California. Indeed, it 
may be said that without them the mines of the State would be relatively insig- 
nificant. At least four-fifths of the gold is obtained with the assistance, direct 
or indirect, of ditch water. There are very few springs in the mining regions, the 
bed rock being usually slate with perpendicular cleavage, through which the w'ater 
soaks down to the lowest levels. The permanent streams are found only at long 
intervals, and run in deep, steep, and narrow channels. Nature has furnished 
no adequate supply of water near the surface for toAvns or for quartz mills ; so 
they, as well as the hydi-aulic pipes and sluices, must depend upon ditch water, 
w-hich thus is an indispensable requisite to the production of four-fifths, perhaps 
nineteen-twentieths of the gold. It is fortunate that the mountain ridge east of 



180 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

tlie mining district rises liigli into the region of snow, where the moisture that 
falls from the atmosphere in winter is condensed and retained until summer and 
fall. But without the ditches this moisture would do little good to the miners, 
since there are few camps near springs or on the immediate banks of constant 
streams. 

Expensive Const rtjction. — The fii-st experiments in ditching in 1850 were 
magnificently successful. The canals were short and small, and the water was 
either sold at a very high price, or was used in working out rich claims. It was 
not uncommon for several years for little ditches to repay the cost of construction 
in a couple of months. It was supposed that the right to the water of a good 
stream would be worth a fortune. The merchants in each town considered it 
their interest to encourage and assist the miners to bring in water, so as to increase 
the population, gold production, and trade. The country was full of enterprise 
and money, for which there was not much other use. Numerous ditch companies 
were formed to bring water from the elevated regions in the mountains, and many 
had invested too much to withdraw before any of them had learned the business 
before them by experience. The work was done when labor was very high ; 
the price for common laborers-being $S per day, and lumber was $100 per thousand 
feet. Before the canals were finished, wages had fallen 50 per cent, or more, and 
the work done was worth in the market only half its cost. Besides, in 1851 and 
1852 the common price for water was 50 cents or $1 an inch, and the ditch com- 
panies made their calculations upon charging those figm-es, but before the com- 
pletion of the ditches the best claims in the ravines had been exhausted, and there 
was not enough rich ground left to pay high prices for all the water. 

Bad Engineering. — The ditch companies did not find good hydraulic engi- 
neers. Many of the canals were constructed under the influence of carpenters 
who wanted to turn their skill in wood-work to account, and wherever it was 
possible they constracted wooden flumes, even in places peculiarly favorable for 
ditching, and where the latter would have cost less than fluming. The flume 
loses value every year, while the ditch, by getting more solid, gains. The flume 
must be rebuilt about once in six, eight, or at most ten years, and the ditch, 
never. The flume soon leaks, and the ditch after a time loses very little by 
leakage. 

High Flumes. — But the mistake in constructing flumes resting on the ground 
was little compared with the loss suffered by constructing high flumes, which 
were wonderful specimens of engineering skill, and still more wonderful samples 
of bad investments. It was common to see flumes 100 and 200 feet high, and 
there is one now standing near Big Oak Flat, in Tuolumne county, 256 feet high. 
These high flumes are very costly, and are frequently blown dow^n. The water 
could, in most cases, have been conveyed in iron pipe, ■\\hich is much clieaiier, 
and far more dm'able, and in many instances it could bo and has been conveyed 
in ditches, constructed at small cost round the head of a ravine. As the yield 
of the mines decreased, the charge for water became onerous, and the miners formed 
combinations to compel a reduction of rates, and these strikes were accompanied 
sometimes by malicious injmies to ditches and flumes. 

Unprofitable Investments. — The big ditches, almost without exception, 
proved unprofitable. Some of them have paid more than their cost, but not near 
so much as the same money would have paid at the current rates of interest. It 
is estimated by competent men that not less than $20,000,000 have been invested 
in the mining ditches of California, and that then- present cash value is not more 
than $2,000,000. In many cases they broke the men who imdertook them. Most 
of them have been sold by the sherift", some of them several times over ; breaking 
the first purchaser, as well as the builders. Bean's " History of Nevada County," 
speaking of the South Yuba ditch as a remarkable w'ork, says : " While nearly all 
the canal enterprises of the country have passed from the control of the men who 
conceived and executed them, the South Yuba canal remains a triumph, as well of 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 181 

the engineering' as of the financial ability of its managers, still remaining in 
possession of the fathers of the enterprise, and owned Avithout an incumbrance or 
enemy, all the men who assisted in any degree in the construction of the works 
having long ago been paid to the uttermost farthing." 

Decline ix Value. — There is a steady decline in the value of the ditches, 
as there is a steady decrease in the yield of the placer mines, which consume 
nine-tenths of the water. The Truckee ditch, which was completed in 185S, at 
a cost of $1,000,000, to supply the towns on the Blue lead, near the southern 
border of Sierra county, has gone to rain. Forty miles of the new ditch, at 
Columbia, have been abandoned, and 1 1 miles of the Amador ditch are abandoned. 
Besides these costly main trunks of large canals there are hundreds of miles of 
branches, each large enough to cany 100 inches or more, that once supplied 
water to thousands of miners, who have now left their camp, and the ditches are 
dry and broken. The Mokelumne Hill Ditch Company is now constructing a 
branch ditch to Cat Camp ; the Sears Union Ditch Company, in Sierra count}-, 
are constructing a branch to Poverty Hill and Scales's Diggings, and the pro- 
prietor of the South Fork canal, in Eldorado county, is talking of building a 
new ditch, to be 50 miles long, and to carry 5,000 inches of water; but it is 
probable that more miles will be abandoned during the next three or four years 
than will be built. The receipts of the Bear river and Aubiu-n canal show a 
steady decline from $90,000 in 1 863 to S40,000 in 1 866. One of the best-informed 
ditch miners in Tuolumne says that the receipts of the ditches in that county 
decrease six per cent, every year on an average, while there is no coiTCspondent 
decrease of expenditures. The decrease in the State generally is probably not 
less than 10 per cent. 

The Supply oe Water exceeding the Demand. — Many of the companies 
are seriously troubled by inability to sell all their water, and some have commenced 
to buy up mining ground to wash on their own account. It not unfrequently 
happens that miners finding their claims will not pay, after having run in debt 
to the water company, transfer their claims in payment, and the company, by 
hiring Chinamen, and requii'ing the ditch tenders to devote their spare hours to 
the labor of superintendence, and using water for which there is no sale, manage 
to make a good profit where the original claim owners could make none. 

Small Ditches. — Although the large ditches, as a class, are unprofitable, 
many of the small ones pay very well. The minor ditches are short, constructed 
on favorable ground, have no high flumes to be blown down by Khe wind, or to be 
_ broken by the snow, or swept away by avalanches, and not unfrequently they 
pick up water that escapes from a ditch higher up, so they avoid many of the 
most serious expenses of the larger ditches. They usually run dry easily in the 
summer, and supply single claims or little camps of no note, and so they are 
relatively of little importance to the mining industry of the country. 

Flumes. — Flumes are usually made with boards, an inch and a half thick for 
the bottom, and an inch and a quarter for the sides. At intervals of two and a 
half feet there is a support for the flume box, consisting of a sill, posts, and cap. 
The sills are four inches square; the posts three by four inches, and the caps one 
and a half by four inches. To erect a flume 25 feet high, costs about twice as 
much as to lay one on the level of the ground, and at 60 feet it costs four times 
as much. The annual repair of a flume is about one-eighth of its original cost, 
in favorable circumstances. If the flume is left dry several months, the repairs 
may be more, for the sun warps and splits the boards, and draws the nails. A 
flume box, 40 inches wide by 20 inches deep, with a grade of 13 feet to the mile, 
will carry about 800 inches, and such a flume built on the surface of the ground 
will cost now at the rate of 84,000 per mile, near a saw-mill. The boards are 
put in the flume rough, but are always battened, and sometimes caulked. The 
cheapest flume costs twice as much as the cheapest ditch of the same capacity, and 
the repairs of a flume cost 90 per cent, more than those of a ditch. The duration 



182 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

of a liigli flume is on an average about six years, and of a low one 8 or 10. 
For the first two or three j-ears after the construction of a ditch there is much 
trouble from gopher holes and slides. 

The flumes in the highest portions of the Sierra, and especially about Howland 
Flat and La Porte are much troubled by the snow, and much labor is spent 
on them every winter. The weight of the snow is so great that after every snow- 
stonn, or while it is in progress, a man must go along and clear the flume with 
a shovel. In cases where the flume is on a hill-side it is necessary to shove 
away the snow from the upper side of the flume, for the mass moves down hiL 
with tremendous Aveight, though with very slow motion, and no flume could 
resist it. 

Iron Pipe. — The use of iron pipe in the form of an inverted siphon, instead 
of high flume, for the purpose of carrying water across ravines, has been a great 
improvement and saving in the ditch business. Near Placerville, water is carried 
across a depression 190 feet, and 1,600 feet long, in a pipe that cost $900, whereas 
a flume would have cost $25,000. Not only is it cheaper, but it can be used where 
fluming is peculiarly impossible, as in crossing ravines 400 feet deep. 

The sheet-iron used in making pipe comes in sheets two feet wide and six feet 
long. The common sizes of pipe are 7 inches and 11 inches in diameter, made 
in joints two feet long. A sheet makes two joints of 11-inch pipe, and three of 
seven-inch, and 11 joints are riveted together to make a section 20 J feet long. At 
the end of each section, as pipes are usually made, there is an ear or hook riveted 
on each side, and when the foot of one section is thrust into the head of another, 
a wire is wrapped round the opposite ears or hooks to tie the sections together. In 
case the j^ipe is laid on a hill-side running down, each section is tied at the head 
to a post to keep it in place ; and the post may be supported by a board placed 
edgewise and crosswise in the ground. About an inch and a half of space is 
allowed for the lap at the end of the sections. The ends need to be made with 
precision, so that they will be water-tight, without packing. The pipe should 
be put together in a straight line, and the sections should be driven together 
with a sledge-hammer, striking a board laid across the end of the section. The 
pipe needs to be coated with tar to preserve it, and if very large it may be coated 
inside as well as out. 

The cost of 11-inch pipe made of No. 20 iron is about 75 cents per foot. The 
thickness of the iron depends upon the amount of pressure and the size of the 
pipe. The larger the pipe the thicker the iron should be. The pressure at 190 
feet is 88 pounds per square inch, and No. 20 iron is strong enough for that, if 
the pipe be not more than ].l inches in diameter. 

The capacity of an inverted siphon depends mainly on the three elements of 
diameter, head and depression. The deeper the depression the greater the friction 
and the slower the current. A straight pipe 11 inches in diameter will carry 
five times as much water as an inverted siphon of the same size and head with 
a depression of 200 feet. 

Ditch Law. — The rales of the common law relative to the rights to water 
were unsuited to the wants of California, and therefore the courts have, by their 
decision, established a new code, which was original here. Among the principles 
of the California water code are the following : 

The water of a stream may be led away from its natural bed and never returned. 

Water becomes the property of the first claimant ; but it becomes his property 
only for the pm'pose for which he claims it, and to the amount whicli he appro 
priates. 

The holder of a claim has a right to use the water without any obstruction 
from later claimants, who may, nevertheless, use the water, if they return it clear 
and uninjured above the point where the first claimant takes it. 

If a miner after claiming and using water abandons it, and allows it to run 
into a channel claimed by another, the latter becomes the owner. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 183 

If a ditcli is cut for di-ainage alone, anotlier may claim tlic water for miniiiix. 
.When the waters of an artificial ditch are turned into a natural stream wkh 
the intention of taking out the same amount at a lower point on the stream, they 
may be so taken out, though the stream had already been claimed by another title. 

No person has a right to take the water from the bed of a stream in which 
there is a prior mining claim that cannot be worked without the w^ter. 

Section 9 of the act of Congress of August, 1S66, relative to ditcli companies, 
makes a material change in the rights of ditch companies. It provides: 

That wherever, 1>7 priority of possession, rip^hts to the use of water for mininp;, agricultural, 
manufacturing, or other purposes, have vested and accrued, and the same are recognized and 
acknowledged by the local customs, laws, and the decisions of courts, the possessors and 
owners of such vested rights shall be maintained and protected in the same; and the right 
of way for the construction of ditches and canals for the purposes aforesaid is hereby acknowl- 
edged and confirmed : Provided, however, That whenever, after the passage of this act, any 
person or persons shall, in the construction of any ditch or canal, injure or damage the posses- 
sions of any settler on the public domain, the party committing such injury or damage shall 
be liable to the party injured for such injury or damage. 

Under this act a ditch company acquires a title to the land on which the ditch 
is made, and to as much more on each side as may be necessaiy for the safety 
or business of the ditch. The company has, beside, the right to run a ditch over 
mining claims and farms on the public domain, on the payment of the actual 
damage done. Previous to the passage of this act, if a ditcli was located over 
a mining claim of prior date, the miner had a right to wash away all his ground, 
and if the ditch was damaged the ditch company had to bear the loss ; but undei 
the new law the ditch company has a better title than the mining claims of prior 
location ; and if the miner washes away the ditch or injures it, ho becomes respon- 
sible for the damage. 

Conflict between Ditchees and Minees. — The first conflict or case 
under the law arose at Gold Run, in Placer county, where tihere was a large 
extent of ground suitable for hydraulic washing, but it remained long inaccessiblo 
for want of water or of outlet. Several ditch companies ran their ditches over 
mining claims, and the miners notified the ditch companies that the ground there 
would, after a time, be washed awa}^ The ditch companies replied that they 
recognized the prior right of the miners and would move the ditches at their own 
expense when the washing should get near to the line. Before that time came, 
the act of 1866 was passed giving to the ditch companies superior rights. Early 
in this year one of the miners, over whose claim several ditches ran, notified the 
companies that ho was rapidly approaching their lines with his pipe, and the bank 
would soon be washed awa3^ One company replied that they would move at 
their own expense ; another gave him notice not to come within 50 feet, or they 
would hold him responsible for all damage done. He has been compelled to 
stop because his profits would not have been large enough to cover the damage. 

Proposed Grant of Land along Ditches. — The ditch companies have 
solicited from Congress a grant of at least 100 feet on each side of their lines ; 
and their wish upon this point deserves attentive consideration. If such a grant, 
at least along the main trunks where not less than 500 inches of water are canied 
for six months in the year without disturbing the claims of miners located pre- 
vious to the location of the ditch, would encourage the construction of new ditches, 
or would give longer life or greater size to those now in existence, it would be 
politic. These companies, by whose assistance $700,000,000 have been taken 
from the ground, at a loss of $10,000,000 to themselves, deserve to receive some 
favors, which will cost nothing to the government, do no injustice to individual 
mines, and increase or keep up the supply of water. 

Before the passage of the act of 1866, granting the right of way to the ditches, 
the Pacific Railroad act had been passed, giving to that road alternate sections 
of public land for a width of five miles on each side of the line, and thus the 
Central Pacific Railroad Company has become the owner of many miles of 



184 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

clitcli beloni^ing to different companies along its line ; and altliough it lias not 
seen fit to demand anything from them, still it is very unpleasant to the ditch 
companies to know that they are at the mercy of another association of later 
date. The act of 1866 giving a right of way for the ditch companies secures 
them against losing their lines Iw future railroad grants, hut it leaves them sub- 
ject to fears that the land immediately alongside may be taken in such a way 
as to i^revent changes and improvements that might be required. In some 
places where there are high flumes a strip 100 feet on each side of the line Avould 
not be too much to be granted to the ditch companies ; but in those places where 
there is a plain ditch or iron pipe on a plain surface, there would seem to be 
no good reason for granting more than room enough to drive a Avagon along. 

MEASUEEMEiSTT OF Water. — Water is sold by the inch, and usually an 
inch is the amount which escapes through an orifice an inch square, with the 
water six inches deep above the top of the orifice. That is called a six-inch 
pressure. If a large quantity is sold, the orifice may be two or three inches 
high. The mode of measurement, however, is not uniform. In some places 
the pressure is nine or ten inches ; in others there is no pressure but the quantity 
that escapes through an orifice an inch wide, and three inches high, without 
pressure, is called an inch. 

In calculations made by machinists it is often necessary to use the term "an 
inch of water," and by common consent that phrase is accepted now to mean 
a supply of 4.032 cubic inches, or 145.86-100 pounds per minute; 3,360 cubic 
feet, 10,656 gallons in 24 hours ; and 1,226,400 cubic feet, 30,410 tons of 40 
cubic feet each, or 6,020,540 gallons in 365 days of 24 hours each. If an inch 
of water pass 200 feet fall it supplies an amount of power about one-tenth less 
than one-horse power. 

At the last session of the legislature of California a bill was introduced to 
provide that " where the question shall be involved as to the quantity of running 
water sold, purchased, delivered, or used, and described by " miner's inch," it 
shall be held and declared that a 'miner's inch' of water shall consist of two 
and one-third cubic feet of water passing a given point in one minute of time, or 
seven and -x^gVo gallons of water passing a given point in a minute, or 145y'y''Q 
pounds of water passing a given point in a minute." The bill was referred to 
the committee on mines, which reported a substitute, providing that " a legal inch 
of water sold for mining, agricultural, or other purpose, is hereby declared to be 
what water may pass through an orifice of one inch square, through plank of one 
inch in thickness, with a pressure of seven inches measured from the centre of 
the orifice to the surface of the water : Provided, the water shall be delivered 
from a box in which the water has no motion except that caused by the flow of 
the water to be delivered from that particular box." Both the original bill and 
the substitute were indefinitely postponed. The objections to the substitute were 
that it might be as well to let the miners and ditch companies agree upon their 
measurements as well as upon their prices, and that some companies which had 
long adopted other modes of measurement would be inconvenienced. 

Eureka Lake and Yuba Canal Company's Ditches. — The property of 
this company, under the present organization, is a consolidation of the ditch and 
mining property formerly owned by a number of difl'erent companies. It extends 
over a vast range of country, and embraces many valuable mines. The main 
ditches were constructed during the years 1855 to 1859, inclusive. Purchases 
of the smaller ditches and consolidation of the larger have taken place at different 
times during the last eight years ; that between the Eureka Lake Water Com- 
pany and the Middle Yuba Canal and Water Coiupany was on the 1st of August, 
1865. All the property of this company has since been transferred to a corpora- 
cion organized for the purpose in the city of New York, the transfer having taken 
etFect on the 1st of January, 1866. The following statement is derived from the 
superintendent, Mr. Richard Abbey: Capital stock, $2,250,000. The first cost 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. . 185 

of construction of all the works would be difficult to estimate, but would prob- 
ably not fall far short of $2,000,000. The cost of the Eureka Lake Water Com- 
pany and Middle Yuba Canal and Water Company's property was $1,600,000; 
length of main ditches and flumes, 100 miles; supplemental, 60; capacity, 5,000 
inches. Estimated amount of gold taken out by the miners supplied with water 
by this company during the last five years, $2,000,000 per year. 

Mr. George Black, civil engineer, thus describes the district of country through 
which these remarkable ditches run, the prevailing systems of mining, and the 
costs and profits : 

The mining section of country supplied by the Middle Yuba canal is situated in the north- 
west of Nevada county, and commences at North San Juan ; it thence extends, on the south 
side of the Middle Yuba river, to its junction with the Main Yuba; thence, on the south- 
easterly side of the Main Yuba, by Sebastopol, Manzanita Hill, Sweetlands, Buckeye, Birch- 
ville, and French Corral, a distance of about six miles. 

At Junction Bluff, a spur from Manzanita Hill, the Middle and North Yuba rivers join 
together and flow in a sovithvvesterly direction, for a distance of about eight miles, to the junc- 
tion of the South Yuba, at Point Defiance, three miles below French Corral. 

From San Juan to a point about a quarter of a mile below Junction Bluff, the north edgo 
of the mining ground is at a distance of about half a mile from the river, and at an elevation 
of about 800 feet above it, having a gradual inclination to the water's edge. From this point 
to French Corral a slate ridge of hills extends between the northwest side of the mining 
ground and the river. On the south it is bounded by a low ridge of hills, which extend to 
the South Yuba. Along the north and west sides of these hills, and in the intervening val- 
leys, part of the company's main canal is situated, together with the branches and reservoirs 
belonging to it. 

'J he mining ground from San Juan to French Corral is composed of a succession of gently 
rounded gravel hills, in length from one mile to one mile and a half each, separated by ravines ; 
the width is more contrasted in some places than in others ; on an average, it may be taken 
at 1,500 feet. The depth along the centre varies from 150 to 200 feet, diminishing towards 
the sides. The deposit rests on a basin-shaped depression in the bed rock, which is composed 
in some places of granite, in others of either trap or transition slate. In those places where 
the superincumbent gravel has been washed away the bed rock is exposed to view, and pre- 
sents a similar appearance to that of the present river, which flows several hundred feet 
beneath. The water-worn appearance of the rocks, all the angles and projecting points of 
which have been rounded oft', show very plainly that at one time a powerful current of water 
must have swept over them. 

The gravel hills are composed of layers (in some places almost horizontal) of sand and 
gravel, intermixed here and there with streaks of clay. The upper layers are composed of ' 
sand and fine gravel ; the gravel becomes coarser as the depth increases. The lower portion 
is composed of boulders and gravel cemented together into a hard and compact mass, resting 
on the bed rock. Gold is found throughout the whole of this deposit ; the upper 50 or 60 
feet contain it only in very small quantities ; it increases with the depth, the lower 20 to 30 
feet lying above the bed rock being invariably the richest. The gold is what is usually 
termed " tine," being in very minute scales, in some cases almost resembling the fineness of 
dust. Large and coarse gold is rarely met with in this locality. 

Gold mining was at first only carried on in the beds of rivers and ravines or along their 
banks, where coarse gold was found, with comparatively little labor or expense in the extrac- 
tion of it. When these places were partially exhausted the attention of miners w-as turned 
to deposits such as these under notice, which could only be made available by a large supply 
of water, brought in over the mining ground at a high elevation. It was to attain this object 
that a number of miners joined together in 1853 and organized the Middle Yuba Canal Com- 
pany, and commenced the construction of their works. When they were completed, a new 
system of working was inaugurated here, by which water was made to replace the labor of 
men. Practical experience has since then proved that the more water is used the more eco- 
nomically and effectually can the deposits be worked. The water is conducted from the flume 
or ditch into the measuring box, 12 to 14 feet square, in the side of which openings areleft 
two inches in depth, and extending along all the sides. The water is allowed to attain a 
depth of six inches above the centre of these orifices. The measurements are made accord- 
ing to the sectional area through which the water flows ; for instance, 20 inches in length by 
2 inches in depth is called 40 inches in miners' measurement ; 50x2=100, and so on. The 
discbarge is regulated according to the demand, and is allowed to flow during a working day 
of 10 hours. A cubic foot, or 7.49 U. S. gallons, equals 38 miners' inches. 

The water from the main canal, or from the reservoir, is carried over high flumes and in 
branch ditches to the different hills, where measuring boxes are fixed to receive it ; from these 
boxes it flows through pipes to the different companies at work. The main pipes at present 



186 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

nsecl arc made of sheet iron one-sixteeutli of an inch iu thickness, firmly riveted together ; 
(8,000 feet of pipe are in nse on the different hills. ) The lengths are usually about 12 feet ; the 
diameter from 11 to 18 inches. The main pipe is connected to a cast-iron box, placed as low 
down as circumstances will admit ; to this box pipes of a lesser diameter are attached, at 
different sides, so that the water can be thrown on different points. At the extremities of 
these pipes flexible tubes are fixed, to which are attached nozzles with metallic ends. The 
diameter of their orifices is two to three inches. The nozzles are pointed against the bank 
which has to be removed. The water used varies from 200 to 1,000 inches ; 1,000 inches, 
miners' measurement, equals 26*- cubic feet, or 197 U. S. gallons ; in weight, 1,030 pounds; 
being a constant discharge, under pressures varying from 140 to 200 feet. This colossal 
force brought to bear against the banks cuts and breaks them away to within a few feet of 
the bed rock. Blasting is resorted to to break up the cemented gravel ; sometimes long drills 
and sand blasts are used, with only a small quantity of powder. Where the crust to be 
removed is too thick for this a drift is run in a little further than the height of the bank, and 
from 1 to 20 kegs of powder are used, according to the depth of the bank to be lifted. 

In the centre of the hills the hard gravel is generally from 20 to 50 feet iu depth. A drift 
is run in on the bed rock, and from 50 to 175 kegs of powder are used at one blast. 

Some miners think it more economical and profitable to drift. They construct parallel 
tunnels 100 feet apart on the bed rock, six to seven feet in height, running into the cliffs, 
aud connect them together with cross-drifts. The connecting walls are washed away by 
hydraulic power, which causes the entire cliff to settle down and break to pieces in its fall. 
The water is then brought to bear on this mass with such force that it sweeps everything 
away through tunnels constructed in the bed rock. Timber sluices are laid through these 
tunnels, varying in width from two and a half to four feet, and 18 inches in depth. The 
grade is usually 1 foot in 15. Two sluices are sometimes used in the same tunnel by different 
companies, from two to two and a half feet in width each. Larger sluices and heads of 
water, with a smaller grade, seem latterly to be preferred as more efficient. 

Several methods are in use for the effectual saving of the gold. In some places the bottoms 
of the sluices are paved with rounded stones of oblong shape, the lesser diameter being about 
three inches. The gold, as it is carried along, is deposited in the interstices between them. 
A " clean up " is made in every 10 or 20 days. In other places blocks are used, sawn across 
the grain, and about two feet square aud six inches in depth ; a ba ten two inches wide and 
two inches in depth is placed between them across the flume, which forms a hollow of four 
inches in every two feet ; in these crevices the gold is deposited. These blocks, of course, 
wear out very rapidly, and have, about once iu every two months, to be replaced. The 
velocity of the water is so great that rocks weighing from 100 to 150 pounds are often carried 
along by the current through the tunnels. The entire mass is precipitated over falls from 12 
to 20 feet iu height, which breaks up the boulders and cement ; the fra,gments are taken up 
anew by other sluices, again precipitated over falls, which operation is repeated several times 
before the river is reached, several hundred feet below. In several places under-current 
sluices are used. At the end of and in the bottom of the last sluice-box a grating is con- 
structed of iron bars, through which a portion of the fine gravel, clay, sand, and water is 
separated from the larger particles, and drops into a set of more gently-graded sluices under- 
neath, varying in width from six to eight feet, through which they are carried off by the cur- 
rent in one direction, while the main body of gravel and boulders is dashed over the falls, to 
be again taken up by other sluices, along with the tailings from the under current, and sub- 
jected anew to the same operation, Avhich is thus repeated several times before the river is 
reached. 

To show the enormous advantages gained by the present system of working, compared 
with those formerly iu use, I may add that, taking a miner's wages at $4 per day, the cost 
of extraction of a cubic yard of deposit will be as follows: 

With the pan .$20 CO 

With the rocker 5 00 

With theLongTom 1 1 00 

While with the powerful means now employed it is only 20 

A considerably greater quantity of gold is retained by this operation than by any other 
hitherto employed. Quicksilver is used more by some miners than by others, distributed 
through their sluices so as to form an amalgam with Ihe gold. They have no fixed rule to 
guide them in its use. 

The works of the Middle Yuba Canal Company were commenced by the construction of a 
small ditch from Grizzly canon (a small stream which falls into the Middle Yuba) to San 
Juan. The water supply not being sufficient, the ditch was enlarged in 1855 to its present 
size, while the works were extended from Grizzly caiion to the river, across which a small 
dam was built. It is situated about three miles below Moore's Flat, the latter place being, 
in altitude, about 1,500 feet above it. The distance from the dam to San Juan is 22 miles, 
and four miles further to the termination of the main canal, at the Sweetlands creek reser- 
voirs. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



187 



Four receiving reservoirs hold the water which flows at night aud on Sundays — 

San Juan reservoir, having a capacity of discharge of._ 2,300 inches. 

Manzanita Hill reservoir, having a capacity of discharge of.. 2,000 " 

Northrup reservoir, having a capacity of discharge of 2.500 " 

Garden reservoir, having a capacity of discharge of 2,000 " 

Total 8.800 " 

The various hills are supplied cither by branch ditches from these reservoirs, or directly 
from the main canal. 

The branch ditches are connected with high flumes which span the low ground intervening 
between the ridge and the mining ground. At San Juan a high flume connects with the 
main canal. 

The length and greatest height of these flumes are as follows : 



San Juan aqueduct 

Mazanita Hill aqueduct 
Buckeye Hill aqueduct. 
Birchville Hill 



Length. 



Height. 



Feet. 


Feet. 


1,200 


48 


2,000 


54 


400 


3.-1 


1,000 


40 



The aggregate length of the branch ditches is about 12 miles. 

The dimensions of the excavated part of the main canal is as follows : bottom, four feet ; 
top, seven feet ; depth, three feet; the grade from the dam to Grizzly canon is 10 feet per 
mile, and from there to San Juan, 12 feet per mile. 

The dimensions of the ditch from San Juan to Garden reservoir are : bottom, three and 
one-half feet ; top, six feet ; depth, two and one-half feet ; grade, 12 feet per mile. 

The main flume is of the following dimensions: bottom, four feet ; depth, three feet, with 
same grade as ditch. 

The branch ditches are : bottom, two and one-half feet ; top, four feet ; depth, two feet ; 
grade, 12 feet per mile. 

The safe capacity of the canal, as it is at present, is equal to a constant stream of 1,500 
inches for 10 hours, miners' measurement, or 3,600 for 24 hours = 38 cubic feet per second. 

The cost of the works has been as follows : 

Construction of canal from river to Mazanita Hill $201 , 765 83 

Construction of canal from Mazanita Hill to Birchville Hill, together with pur- 

clwise from Sweetlands, «fcc 31, 237 50 

Expenses and improvements, to May, 1857 70,954 29 

San Juan, Mazanita, and Jones's reservoirs 18,099 29 

Purchase of Grizzly Company's works, at San Juan 10, 000 00 

Purchase of Pollard's, at Buckeye Hill 1,500 00 

Sandy creek extension 3, 625 00 

Total cost to June, 1858 397,201 91 



Water sales, receipts and expenses of the Middle Yuha Canal Company, from Jan- 
uary 20, 1856, to July 1, 1864. 





Sales. 


Receipts. 


January 20 1856 to December 1 1857 


$164, 834 45 
167,113 58 
172, 432 54 

378, 940 78 

123, 153 80 

08,726 01 


$142, 015 48 


December 1 1 857 to January 1 1 859 . . ... 


148, 689 74 


January 1 1859 to January 1 1860 


144,375 39 


January 1 , 1860, to January 1 , 1863 


369,577 81 




109, 480 87 


January 1 1864 to July 1 1864 


62,283 43 








1,075,201 10 


908,022 72 



Expended in construction of extension ditches, reservoirs, and other improvements, and 
working expenses in three years, ending January 1, 1863, $132,535 70. 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Statement of ivater sales, receipts and expenses from January 1, 1863, to June 

30, 1864. 



Date. 



186?. 

January 

JFebruacy . .. 

Marcii 

April 



iay. 



June 

July 

August . 

September . . 

October 

''Jovember .. 

December . . 

1864. 

January 

February . . 

March 

April 

Way 

Tune 



Total 191,879 81 



Sales. 



819 W 
497 20 
522 40 
993 00 
124 00 
333 80 
352 30 
941 20 
144 30 
351 60 
926 20 
142 80 

on 80 
863 20 
200 60 
165 30 
6C6 45 
818 66 



Receipts. 



$9, 204 04 

8, 358 7G 
6.981 96 
7, 963 03 
6, 077 40 

9, 368 70 
6, 198 93 

7, 895 48 

8, 159 41 
8, 900 45 
9, 025 66 

12, 347 06 

10, 615 92 
5, 678 24 
5, 955 87 

22, 882 05 
8, 429 63 
8, 721 72 



162, 764 30 



$650 
630 
600 
625 
650 
600 
650 
65(.' 
550 
575 
650 
615 

650 
650 
650 
650 
625 
650 



11, 340 



Working expenses. 



$700 00 
700 00 
700 00 
625 00 
C07 00 
535 00 
457 50 
415 00 
415 00 
700 00 
415 00 
415 00 

415 00 
415 00 
405 00 
405 00 
405 00 
405 00 



9, 134 50 



$242 75 
212 50 
243 87 
130 75 
467 63 
226 75 

97 31 
334 65 

69 00 

7 50 

267 63 

52 00 

247 77 
710 62 
539 62 
234 80 
157 74 
87 75 



4, 330 64 



$915 46 

48 04 

5 61 

81 87 

69 72 

20 75 

164 40 

745 75 

102 17 

30 75 

567 48 

44 30 

113 76 

169 05 
29 06 

2.50 64 
69 28 

169 57 



3, 397 66 



$34 25 

114 00 

8 00 

39 50 



176 25 

64 00 

452 50 

20 00 

4, 280 18 

2 00 

409 72 

515 90 

9 75 

2 00 

51 50 

122 75 



6, 302 20 



$2, 542 46 
1,724 54 
1, 557 48 

1, 502 12 
1,794 35 
1, 382 50 
1,545 46 

2, 209 40 
1,588 67 
1, 333 25 
5, 980 29 
1, 128 30 

1, 836 25 

2, 400 57 
1,633 43 
1,512 44 
1,308 52 
1, 435 07 



34, 505 10 



The expense of |5,980 29, in November, 1863, includes State and county taxes. 
It will be seen from the foregoing statements that the actual receipts for the sales of water, 
from 1H56 to July 1, 1864, a period of eight and one-half years, have amounted to $968,022 72. 

The receipts from January 1, 1860, to January 1, 1863, (three years,) have 

amounted to $369,577 81 

While the expenses have been 132, 535 00 

Net receipts 237,042 81 

And the receipts from January 1, 1863, to July 1, 1864, (one and one-half year,) 

have amounted to $162, 764 30 

Expenses 34,505 10 

Net receipts 128,259 20 



In addition to the supply derived from the Middle Ytiba, the canal also receives part of the 
water from the reservoir of the Sierra Nevada Lake Company, which, after being used on 
American Hill, Chips, Alleghany, and Minesota, falls into the river or its branches, and 
fl ws from thence into the flume 

In like manner the water in Eureka Lake Company's reservoir, after being used at Snow 
Point, Moore's, Orleans, Woolsey's Flats, and at other points along the north side of the 
ridge, falls into the river, and also flows into the flume. 

Very extensive mining operations have been carried on for some years on this section. 
Tunnels, amounting in the aggregate to thousands of feet in length, have been driven through 
the bed rock to insure the fall necessary for the sluices. These tunnels have cost from $15 
to $25 per foot run : some have taken years to complete, while others are still in course of 
construction. 

San Juan Hill. — The Eureka Claim embraces 80 claims of 180 feet by 80 feet — conse- 
quently an area of 26^ acres. The depth of the gold-bearing deposit is 1(J0 feet to 175 feet. The 
north edge of the granite basin on which it rests is at au elevation of 85U feet over the Middle 
Yuba, which flows beneath. 500 to 1,000 inches of water per day, supplied by the Eureka 
Lake Company, are used through three iron pipes 12 inches to 14 inches in diameter. 

Upwards of five years — from August, 1855, to October, 1860 — were taken to constructs 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS 189 

tunnel so that the gravel could be worked to the bed rock. The expenses incurred before a 
dividend was declared were $142,000. 

The expenses of working: this claim from July 24, 1860, to December 21, 1862 — two and 
one-third years — were as follows : 

Canvas and hose $4,654 

Purchase of claims 22,800 

Water 67,800 

Labor, quicksilver, tools, &c .51,952 

Lowering tunnel 20, 000 

Lumber 6, 400 

Powder 20,000 

193,600 
Proceeds from claims 287, 200 

Net profits 93,600 

During the period of two and one-third years, eight months were lost in lowering the exist- 
ing tunnel, so as to obtain the requisite fall for the flumes. 

December 21, 1862, to April 1, 1863 — three and one-fourth months : 

Expenses for water $11, 000 

Labor, quicksilver, &G 8, 000 

19, 000 
Proceeds from claims 50, 000 

Net profits 31,000 

In June, 1863, this company was regularly incorporated, and the ofiice established in San 
Francisco. The following is a detailed account of expenses and receipts since then : 

Receipts and expenditures of the Eureka Gold Mining Companifs Claim from June 5, 1863, 

to August 11, 1864. 
August 11, 1864 : 

Cash, labor account $24,986 56 

Expense, lumber, candles, coal, merchandise, incidentals 4, 568 42 

Claims account 602 50 

Hose 1,488 10 

Powder 9,642 17 

Water , 35,782 49 

Quicksilver 272 81 

Taxes ]08 40 

Dividend account 66, 000 00 

Balance 4,078 45 

147, 529 90. 

August 11, 1864 : 
Cash received from claims from June 5, 1863, to date $147,529 90 

SAN JUAN HILL. 

Deadman Cut Mining Claims— superficial area, square feet 94, 623 

Average depth, feet 100 

Cubic contents, cubic yards 350,455 

April 29, 1855, to February 4, 1859: 

Water $23,565 76 

Special expense 20,017 78 

Labor 27,849 75 

71,433 29 
Cash received from claims 156, 307 73 

Net profits 84,874 44 

This claim was entirely worked out in 1859. 

The average quantity of gold in it was, per cubic yard 44 

The total cost of extracting, including water, per cubic yard 20 



190 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



MANZANITA HILL. 



McKeeby & Company's Claims, average lencrtli 851 feet by 315 feet, square 

yards.. - 28,240 

Average depth, feet 120 

Amount of gravel, cubic yards 1, 191,400 



Cash received from claims $368, 932 78 

Construction of tunnel $18,000 00 

Water 81,555 25 

Expenses 142,717 53 

Dividends paid 126,660 00 

368, 932 78 



This claim has been in operation since 1855. The total quantity of water used has been 
339. 374 inches, the price of which has varied from 50 cents to 20 cents per inch. The aver- 
age quantity of gold, 30 cents per cubic yard. Cost of water, 7| cents per cubic yard. Total 
cost of extraction, including water, 20 cents. The shaft sunk from the surface of the bed 
rock to the sluice is 169 feet 10 inches. The size of the claims is 180 feet by 80, or one-third 
of an acre in area, (each company owning several claims. ) The average quantity of water 
required for the complete working of each has been 18,614 inches ; at 20 cents per inch, 
$3,722. 

The Middle Yuba Company's receipts over expenses for 12 months ending July 

], 1864... $85,506 

The Eureka Lake Company's receipts over expenses for 12 months ending Julv 

1, 1864, were, say - 145,000 

Net receipts 230,506 



The safe capacity of discharge of the canals of both companies, being a constant stream 
during 10 hours, is as follows : 

Minors' inches. 

Eureka Lake canal 3, 000 

Miners' canal 750 

Other districts 250 

4, 000 

Middle Yuba canal - 1 , 500 

5,500 

5, 500 inches for ten hours, equal for 24 hours 1.3, 200 

20 per cent, deficiency in supply, stoppages, and other causes 2, 620 

10, 580 

Say 10,000 inches per day, &c. 

In reference to the Eureka Lake canal, Mr. Black makes the following remarks : 
The section of country which can be supplied by these works extends over a large portion of 
Nevada county, commencing at the junction of the North and South Yuba rivers, four miles 
below French Corral; thence it extends in a northeasterly direction between these rivers toward 
the summit of the Sierra Nevada. A main ridge between these rivers gradually rises from 
1,500 feet, the altitude of French Corral above the sea, to 8,000 feet on the summit. Numer- 
ous lateral spurs, with ravines separating them, extend from the main ridge on each side to 
the rivers. In most cases the mining ground is situated on benches near the extremities of 
these spurs ; in some, however, it is situated in channels between them. From French Corral 
to Eureka, a distance of about 32 miles, the average width between the rivers is seven miles; 
from thence the width gradually increases to about 16 miles on the summit of the mountains. 
The first portion is that in which the mining section is situated, and comprises an area of 
about 175 square miles. The area of the ditierent places where gravel deposits have been 
found may together be about 15 square miles. The deposits in addition to those from French 
Corral loSan Juan, already described, extend on the north side of the ridge by Badger's 
Hill, Grass Valley, Eurisko, and further up by Woolsey's, Moore's, Orleans Flat, and Snow 
Point to Eureka; and on the south slope of the ridge from Montezuma to Pleasant Hill, 
Cherokee, Chimney Hill, Columbia Hill, Lake City, Bloomfield, Relief Hill, and Mount 
Zion. The thickness of the deposits varies from 60 to 200 feet, nearly similar to those before 



WF,RT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



191 



described at San Juan, save that they are not so rich in gold, and are more intermixed with 
seams of clay, which render them more difficult to be worked. 

From Eureka to the summit of the mountains no deposits have been found. The geologi- 
cal formation is mostly granite and gneiss, which rise into high and rugged peaks, some of 
which attain an elevation of 8,500 feet above the sea. The Middle and South Yubas, with 
their tributary streams, such as Canon creek, Pass creek, and others, take their rise in these 
mountains, amongst which are numerous lakes from 20 to 400 acres in area. The Cafinn 
Creek lake, situated at the head of Canon creek, about four miles west of the summit, is the 
largest, and forms the company's principal reservoir. A substantial dam formed of blocks 
of granite has been erected across its outlet. The transverse width at bottom is 120 feet, its 
height 70 feet, and length from bank to bank 250 feet. The front is protected with two 
layers of 2^-inch lumbei", well secured to the face. An arched sluice is constructed through 
the dam, by which the flow of water is regulated from the interior. When full of water, the 
nrea of tlie reservoir is 500 acres, the average depth of water 42 feet, and its contents 
935, 000, 000 cubic feet of water. 

Sources of supply, from the middle of April to the middle of August, are derived from the 
mountain streams, Avhich become swollen from the rapid melting of the snow, and afford a 
four months' plentiful supply. After that date recourse is had to the reservoirs. 

MINERS' DITCH. 

Cort of purchases of ditches and water rights $57, 900 

Miners' ditch and reservoirs cost 180, 000 

237, 900 
EUREKA LAKE DITCH. 

Cost of purchase of small ditches, water rights, &c 174,250 

Eureka Lake dam 35, 000 

Lake Faucherie dam.. o 8,000 

Smaller dams 2,000 

Magenta and National aqueducts 28,000 

Storage reservoirs 5J, 000 

Iron pipes to San Juan 12, 000 

Main canal and flume 256, 000 

Saw-mill 7,000 

806,150 
Management, law expenses, &c., 20 per cent 101,230 

966, 380 



The following is a list of the storage reservoirs named in the above estimate, with their 
capacity and cost: 



Locality. 


No. of 
reservoirs. 


Capacity 
in inches. 


Cost. 


Eureka 


1 
1 

4 
4 
3 
1 
3 
2 

1 

3 

1 
2 
1 
2 
1 
2 


50 

2,500 

500 

800 

1,000 

300 

500 

2,000 

250 

100 

4,500 

4,000 

500 

700 

3,000 

250 

200 


$300 
1,000 


Snow Point .. 


Orleans 


3,000 


Moore's 


6,000 


Woolsey's 


7,500 


Relief Hill 


1,500 


Bloomfield . . . 


1,500 


Lake City 


5,000 


Kennebec 


1,500 


Grizzly Hill 


1,000 


Columbia Hill 


15, 000 


Grizzly Hill 


10, 000 


Cherokee _.. > 


4,000 


Lone Ridge . 


2, 500 


San Juan 


10, 000 


Pleasant Ridge 


1,000 


Montezuma 


1,000 








33 


21, 150 


71,800 



192 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



The average annual -water sales of tbe Eureka Lake Water Company: according to tho 
annexed statements, amount to $161, 3G9, over and above expenses of management, repairs, 
&c. Deducting 10 per cent, from this for bad debts will leave a net income of $145,233. 

Some idea of the magnitude with which mining operations are carried ou along this ridge 
may be inferred from the fact that since 1850 the annual quantity of gold transmitted to San 
Francisco has amounted to from $1,500,000 to $2,000,000. 

So great has been the quantity of ground washed away, that many of the ravines are cov- 
ered with a depth of 20 feet and upwards of tailings from the sluices, composed of sand and 
gravel. The fall, therefore considered necessary for the sluices, of one foot in 15, can only 
be obtained in those places that are situated above the rivers, such as those in the San Juan 
district, and higher up the ridge at Badger Hill, Grizzly Hill, Woolsey's, Moore';;, and 
Orleans Flat. 

In order to obviate this difficulty of want of fall, tunnels are being constmcted at different 
points, which take from two to five years to complete. Some of those I visited are through 
granite or trap, and cost at the rate'of from $20 to $C0 per running foot. They are six to 
eight feet in width, and seven feet in height; when completed a tlume will be laid through 
them and extended a long distance down the ravine. All the tailings with which a ravine is 
incumbered will be carried away through tho flume by the current of water. After the present 
year, many of those tunnels now being constructed will be finished, when numerous com- 
panies will be enabled to work, which are now precluded from doing so on account of insuf- 
ficiency of fall in the creeks. 

I annex a detailed statement of the localities supplied by the Eureka Lake Water Com- 
pany, and the amounts realized during one week ; it is a fair average statement of the weekly 
sales during tbe year. 

Water sales of the Eureka Lake Water Company for the week ending July^, 1862. 

Lake City, Grizzly Hill, and Kennebec $17.5 Of) 

SnowPomt 62 16 

Woolsey's 407 09 

Moore's ■ 243 84 

Orleans 169 U 

PleasautHill 33 50 

Cherokee 208 02 

Bloomfield 10 50 

San Juan 1,305 C7 

Columbia Hill 853 83 

Chimney Hill 484 35 

EelieflliU 212 17 

Kureka GL 50 

4, 189 77 



Abstract of monthly reports hy secretary of the Eurela LaJce and Tula Canal Company. 



c too 






1866— January... 
February . 

Jlareh 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 
October . . . 
November 
December . 



1867— January... 
February . . 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 



$10, 079 51 
25, 965 33 
30, 173 51 
24, 866 78 
21,823 65 
27, 715 34 
23, 885 24 
20,392 41 
26,093 80 
21, 836 95 

18, 474 98 

19, 590 32 



856 71 
740 97 
109 38 
496 69 
898 09 
537 58 
259 98 
705 42 
S73 18 
692 60 
028 62 
812 66 



$3. 142 17 
3, 107 58 
3, 615 92 
3, 479 15 
3, 563 49 
3. 575 66 
3, 366 30 
3, 462 29 
3, 358 55 
3, 317 49 
3,392.99 
3, 092 97 



$895 36 

976 71 

1,019 05 

2, 855 27 
4, 086 87 
2,416 20 

3, 802 05 
2, 740 31 
3, 103 99 
6, 966 90 
9, 700 96 
3, 059 87 



$5, 235 01 
12, 242 1 1 
3, 065 76 
18, 946 37 
22,871 93 
20, 049 09 

29, 674 95 
30, 361 94 
35, 582 36 
31,726 71 
33, 173 07 

30, 950 73 



I $10, 476 86 

22, 474 41 
20, 162 27 
10, 247 73 
24, 551 72 
7, 128 63 
13,012 47 

14, 581 01 

15, 945 97 
4, 366 78 

15, 442 78 



270, 897 82 



240, Oil 88 



40, 954 56 



41,023 54 



158, 989 23 



17, 615 69 
16, 989 64 
20, 524 74 
23, 027 48 
19,475 72 
25, 353 35 
18, 138 69 
25, 114 14 

160,239 45 



16,611 30 
12, 995 83 
17, 104 16 
22,791 20 
22,375 81 
23,944 15 
15,518 00 
22, 935 76 

154, 276 21 



033 74 
187 32 
155 96 
361 01 
559 99 
506 82 
515 49 
463 50 



387 04 
427 68 
338 93 
782 76 
040 33 
276 65 
237 11 
374 10 



20, 705 36 

26, 699 17 
30,119 75 
30, 356 03 

27, 498 81 
29, ] 92 97 
31,813 66 
33, 992 04 



27, 443 83 



15, 864 60 



13, 112 87 
8,956 81 
12, 166 89 
17, 647 43 
15, 775 49 
17, 100 m 
8, 765 40 
17, 098 16 

110, 623 73 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 193 

French Corral. — The Nevada Water Company was organized and incor- 
porated in New York in November, 1S5S. It tlien purchased the Shady Creek 
and Grizzly ditches, and now owns, in addition to tliese ditches, a large extent 
of mining ground. The Shady Creek ditch was located in January, 1851, and 
the Grizzly ditch in 1852. Both were constructed for the ]nTrpose of conveying 
water from Shady creek (a tributary of the Yuba river) to French Corral. 

The Shady Creek ditch, the only one in present repair and use, has a nmning 
capacity of about 2,500 inches, miner's measure. Its width is eight feet at the 
top and sis feet at the bottom, and its depth three feet, having a grade of about 
14 feet per mile. Its length is about 12 miles, and with the exception of some 
4,000 feet of fluming is excavated wholly in earth. The cost of construction of 
ditches and reservoirs owned by the Nevada Company has been about ^150,000. 
They pass through Birchville mining district, but at present only supply water 
to the French Con-al district. Six or eight sets of claims in this district besidea 
the claims ouTied wholly or in part by the Nevada Company are supplied from 
their ditches. 

Another ditch from Shady creek to French CoiTal, built in 1855, at a cost of 
some $50,000, including reservoirs, having a capacity of about 500 inches, is 
owned by the Empire Tunnel Company of this place. The principal claims in 
the French CoiTal district are the Kate Hayes Company, Bird & Smith, Black 
& Brother, Empire Tunnel Company, Empire Flat Company, Dockum Company, 
French's, Glaister's, Burke & Company, and the Nevada Water Company claims. 

The price paid for M^ater is 15 cents per inch, and the quantity used by different 
companies varies from 200 to 1,000 inches per day. 

The gold range of this district is a deposit of washed gravel filling a well- 
defined old river channel to the average depth of about 150 feet, varying in 
width from 1,000 to 3,000 feet. This deposit is continuous from French Corral 
to San Juan, a distance of six miles, broken only by ravines, but below French 
CoiTal and above San Juan it is cut off by the deep canons of the South and 
Middle Yuba rivers. This deposit is composed of what the miners call blue and 
red dirt — the blue gravel or cement underlying the red or gray. Both strata have 
until recently been worked by blasting with powder and washing by the hydraulic 
process. Hereafter it is believed that the blue cement will be crushed with greater 
profit, besides saving a larger percentage of gold lost by the ordinary washing. 

The Empire Tunnel Company have built and are running very successfully 
a 10-stamp mill, crushing the blue cement. The American Company, at Sebas- 
topol, are also realizing profits from their eight-stamp mill, Avorking the same 
blue gravel. 

The English or "Truckee Ditch Company," some 10 or more years ago,, 
expended nearly $1,000,000 in a ditch from the Middle Yuba to the mines on, 
the dividing ridge between the Middle and North Yubas. The enterprise proved, 
disastrous for the reason that paying hydraulic mines could not be found. The 
gold deposits of that region were generally found in a thin stratum of gravel 
lying on the bed rock, while the mass of earth above contained little or no gold. 

The paying lead could be most readily worked by '' drifting out," and required 
but a small amount of water to wash it. Under such circumstances an extensive 
and expensive ditch like the Truckee Company's would not pay, and has fallen 
into disuse. Their water right has recently been purchased by some San Fran- 
cisco capitalists. 

Tuolumne Ditch. — Most of the ditch water used in Tuolumne county is 
supplied by the Tuolumne County Water Company, which takes its water from 
/he Stanislaus river about 20 miles in a direct line above Columbia. The com- 
pany own two ditches known as " the old" and '' the new." The former cost 
$550,000, and the latter $1,000,000. The old ditch was commenced on the 1st 
July, 1851, and it began to supply water in May, 1852, but the price of water, 
introduced at such great cost, was necessarily high, and the miners foimed a- 
13 



194 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

combination to compel a. reduction of prices and afterwards to construct a new 
ditch. The ditch was made, hut in a very expensive manner, and when com- 
pleted it was burdened with debt, so that it soon fell into the hands of those Avho 
owned the old ditch, leaving many of the creditors unpaid. A bitter feeling 
ensued and many threats of assassination were made, and the ditch and flumes 
were maliciously injured in numerous places. Although the new ditch was pm*- 
chased at a small percentage on its cost, it did not pay much profit. Part of it 
was built on the side of a mountain which is swept nearly every Avinter by snow 
avalanches, and the repairs were very expensive. Forty miles of the ditch near 
the head are now abandoned. The company has 75 miles of main ditch and 
branches. The river supplies an abundance of water till the 1st July, and after 
that time the reservoirs are drained gradually. One of them covers 84 acres, 
and another is a mile long, three-quarters of a mile wide, and 40 feet deep. The 
total capacity of the reservoirs is 1,800 inches for four months, in which time 
they are exhausted, so that there is usually a month or two at the end of the dry 
season when the company cannot supply water. The ditch has a grade of 18 
feet to the mile, and the flume is seven and one-half feet wide, four feet deep, 
and has a grade of 16 feet to the mile. The price for a 12-iuch stream is $3 
per day; of 15 inches $3 50; of 18 inches $54; of 21 inches $4 50; of 24 
inches $5 ; of more than 24 and less than 48, 20 cents per inch ; of more than 
48 inches 18 cents per inch. The capacity of the flume is 3,600 inches. In 
many places flumes were constructed where it would have been much cheaper to 
have had iron pipe, and this is being substituted now as the flumes give way. 
Not less than $100,000 might have been saved by using pipe at first. The com- 
pany supplies Columbia, Yankee Hill, Gold Springs, Mormon Gulch, Saw Mill 
Flat, Martinez, Jamestown, Montezuma, Chinese Camp, and their vicinities. The 
amount paid by the company as dividends in 1866 was $35,750. 

rn(ENix DiTcn. — The Phoenix Ditch Company obtains its water from the 
Tuolumne river in two ditches, known as the Phoenix and Hydraulic, and sup- 
plies Sugar Pine, Soulsbyville, Sonora, Shaw's Flat, Poverty Hill, Algerine, 
Cherokee, and Somerville. The company has 84 miles of ditching and 16 miles 
of flume. Both ditches were started in 1850 and supplied water in small 
quantity the next year, but the Hydraulic did not get water from the Tuolumne 
river till 1853, nor the Phoenix till 1854. The highest flume is 65 feet high 
and 360 feet long, and it has been blown down once. The flume at Shaw's 
Flat, 300 feet high and 600 feet long, has been blown down twice. The flume 
of the Phoenix line is five feet wide by two and one-half deep ; that of the 
Hj^draulic four feet wide by two deep. There are two reservoirs which hold a 
snppljr for two months and a half. The price for a 15-incli sluice is $2 per day 
of 12 hours. The Phoenix ditch cost $380,000, and the Hydraulic $500,000. 
Both have been sold twice at sheriffs' sale. The receipts of the ditch company 
were $38,000 in 1860, and $22,000 in 1866, and the annual expenses are about 
$9,600. There are nine ditch tenders and collectors, who are paid $70 and $80 
per month. In 1855 the price of water Avas $6 per day for nine inches. The 
water is delivered through an orifice three inches high and under a pressure of 
four inches over the orifice. There are near Cherokee and Somerville some high 
gravel hills, which may require a large supply of water when they are opened 
and their wealth demonstrated. Al)out one-fourth of the water is sold to China- 
men, and one-twentieth for irrigation. 

The Golden Rock ditch, south of the Tuolumne river, from which it obtains 
its water, supplies Gravel Range, Big Humbug, First Garrote, Second Garrote, 
Deer I'lat, 13ig Oak Flat, Moccasin Creek, Spring Gulch, Boneyard, Penon 
Blanco, and Horseshoe Bend. Tliis ditch cost $300,000, and is very unprofitable. 
There is a flume 1,300 feet long, and part of it is 256 feet high, supported by 
wooden towers. The main ditch is 38 miles long. The price is $2 per day for 
a stream of 20 inches. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 195 

Mijepht's Ditch. — The Murphy's ditch was commenced in 1851 and finished 
in 1856. The total cost .was $200,000, of which sum $180,000 was obtained 
by the sale of water. Five years after the work was commenced dividends began 
to come in, and twice as much was received by the shareholders as they had paid 
out four years before. In 1866 Si 0,000 were paid as dividends, and the Cala- 
veras ditch was bought for $20,000. The present market value of the ditch is 
probably not more than one-sixth of its original cost. The Caleveras ditch 
obtains its water from the Stanislaus river, and supplies Douglas Flat, Vallecito, 
French Flat, and Jenny Lind and Quail HilL It was finished in 1858, and cost 
$10,000. Connected witli this ditch is the Salt Spring reservoir, which covers 
2,000 acres and is 30 feet deep, and is the largest resei^voir in the foot hills of 
California. 

MoKELUMXE Ditch. — The Mokelumne Hill and Oampo Seco ditch has 50 
miles of main ditch, and cost, when constructed, $500,000. The present assessed 
value is $25,000.. The flume is 40 inches wide and 20 deep, and has a grade 
of 1.3 feet to the mile. Originall}^ it was all flume, but the fluming has been 
replaced by ditching, except for six miles, and most of that distance will be 
ditcli. The water is obtained from the south fork of the Mokelumne river. The 
places supplied are Mokelumne Hill, Carapo Seco, Chile Camp, Rich Gulch, 
and Comanche Camp, and Cat Camp is to be supplied soon. In the extension 
of the ditch to the last-named place a depression 5,000 feet long and 80 feet 
deep is to be crossed by iron pipe two feet in diameter, with 30 feet head. It is 
expected that the pipe will carry 1,000 inches of water. The charge per inch 
is 25 cents for 12 hours to placer miners, and 15 cents per inch to quartz miners 
and millers. The water is discharged under four inches of pressure. 

The Union Water Company's ditch is 35 miles long and takes water from the 
Stanislaus river to supply the placers' mining district between that river and 
the Calaveras, an area of 20 miles square. There are reservoirs large enough 
to hold a sup])iy of 600 inches of water for three months. 

Amador Ditch. — The Amador Canal Company has two ditches, the Amador 
and the Pioneer ; the main trunk of the Amador is 20 miles long, all of it flume. 
The water is obtained from the ]!iIokelumne river. The original length was 31 
miles, but the upper part was so much injured in 1862 that 11 miles were aban- 
doned and will probal^lj^ not be rebuilt, or at least there is no thought now of 
rebuilding. Ditch might be sabstituted for flume for at least half the distance, 
and the substitution is to be commenced soon, since portions of the flume Avill not 
last long. The ditch can-ies 400 inches of water during eight or nine months 
of the year, but previous to 1862 that quantity was furnished the year round. 
There are parts of the ditch on which the charge for water is 10 cents per inch 
in winter and 15 in summer, and on the other parts the price is 16§ cents 
throughout the year. The gross income in 1866 was $28,000 ; and the ordinary 
expenses $20,000 ; and the extraordinary improvements $8,000, leaving nothing 
for dividend. 

The VOLCAXO ditch has 35 miles of main trunk, and obtains its water from 
its tributaries of the Mokelumne river. It carries 450 inches of water, but the 
supply ceases in July. The price for water is 12^ cents per inch per day. The 
cost of the ditch was $140,000. The gross receipts in 1866 were $5,000, and 
the ordinary expenses $3,000. 

As the mines at Volcano were in a basin to which there was no sufiicient out- 
let, the company cut a channel in the bed rock 15 feet deep and a mile and a 
haK long, at a cost of $80,000, into which a tail sluice was put. The company 
charges 50 cents per day for the privilege of running a sluice-head into the drain, 
and the company have, besides, all the gold which they can catch in it, and it 
amounts to about $3,000 per year, leaving $2,000 net. 

Eureka Ditch, (El Dorado County.) — The Eureka Canal Company owns 
two ditches, which were made as rivals to take water fi-om the north fork of the 



196 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEERITOKIES 

Cosumnes. They supply Pleasant Valley, Diamond Springs, El Dorado, Mis- 
soui-i Flat, Logtown, Buckeye Flat, Shingle Springs, Clarksville, Western Dig- 
gings, and tlie divide nortli of the Cosumnes to within 12 miles of Sacramento 
city. The main trunks of the two ditches are 170 miles long, and the trenches, 
which cany not less than lOO inches each, are ISO miles more ; making 350 
miles of ditching owned by the company and tended by its 17 employes. The 
length of small ditches made by the miners to cany the water from the company's 
lines to their claims is not less than 450 miles. The original cost of the two 
ditches and their branches w\as $700,000, and they are assessed at $30,000. 
There are 16 miles of flume belonging to the company, and there is one reser- • 
voir that covers 160 acres. Along the higher lines of ditch the charge for water 
is 16 cents per inch for 10 hours for mining, and on the lower lines from 10 to 
12 cents; but farmers pay 33 cents, because the water is worked up and lost to 
the company, whereas the miners' water runs down into the lower ditches, and is 
sold fi'om them again perhaps three or fom' times over. I^his company sells- for 
an inch the amount of water that escapes through an orifice three inches high 
and an inch wide without pressure. 

Indian Diggings Ditches. — Three ditches from the south and middle 
branches of the middle fork of the American river to supply Indian Diggings, 
Brownsville, Fairplay, Slug Gulch, and Cedarville, carrying 1,000 inches in all 
in the spring, and declining to 150 inches in September. One of these ditches 
was finished in ].853, and the other in 1854 and 1855. The three are owned 
now by one man. The original cost of the three was $125,000, and they are 
now assessed at $15,000. There is a mile and a half of flume. The charge is 
]2^ cents per inch for 12 hours, and 18f cents for 24 hours. The inch is deliv- 
ered under six inches of pressure. There has been sale for all the water pre- 
\'ious to 1867. The expenses of the ditches while full are about one-fourth of 
the receipts. 

Natoena DiTcn. — The Natorna ditch takes its water from the south fork of 
the American river, 14 miles above Folsom, and supplies Red Banks, Mormon 
Island, Willow Springs, Rhodes Diggings, Texas Hill, Alder Creek, Rebel Hill, 
Prairie City, and Tates's Flat, which together contain about 500 miners. The 
ditch was constructed in 1852 and 1853, and the total cost of the main trunk 
and branches has been $200,000. The present assessed value is $75,000. The 
main trunk is 16 miles long, eight feet wide on top, five feet wide at the bottom, 
and three deep. There is also one mile of flume. The price of water varies at 
diflferent places, but the average is 20 cents per inch per day, and the inch is 
delivered under six inches of pressure. The net annual profits since 1860 have 
been $30,800, and the gross receipts were twice as much. Previous to 1861 the 
gross receipts were about $75,000 annually. 

In 1857 the company purchased 9,000 acres of land, most of it auriferous 
ground covered by their ditches. Having thus a large amount of land which it 
becomes important to improve, the company have undertaken to build up a large 
manufacturing town at Folsom, to which they are about to bring 250,000 inches 
of water, with a fall of 80 feet. A canal is being cut a mile and a half long, 
40 feet wide at the top, 25 at the bottom, and seven feet deep, with a grade of 
four feet to the mile ; and a dam is to be built in the American river, of granite 
laid in cement, 400 feet long, 60 feet wide, and 57 feet high. The whole work 
will be finished in 1868, and with its assistance Folsom will become the most 
important manufacturing tovra of the coast, next to San Francisco. Water power 
can be furnished here at one-third the cost of steam, and no other town on the 
State coast can have power so cheap or so much of it, or so near San Francisco. 

South Fork Ditch. — The South Fork canal, in El Dorado county, has a 
main tnmk 34 miles long, and carries 600 inches of water, which is taken from 
the south fork of the American river to supply Placerville and vicinity. The 
•original cost w\as $500,.000, and the present value is about one-tenth of that sum. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 197 

The total length of the main flume, laterals, and branches is 142 J miles. The 
length of the ditch from the dam on the south fork of the American river to the 
reservoir near Placerville is 24 miles ; from the reservoir to Coon Hollow, nine 
and three-fourth miles, and from Hangtown Creek to Buckeye Flat 32 miles. 
The Poverty Point branch is four and one-eighth miles long ; the Indian Hill 
branch, four and a half; the Clay Hill branch, two ; the Shober Hill branch, 
live ; the Hangtown Hill branch, one and one-eighth ; the Texas Hill branch, 
one and a half. The Gold Hill canal is 10 miles long; its branches and later- 
als, 12:^; the Weber canal, IS^; the Iowa canal, 21, and the Eed Hill branch, 
one and a half. The South Fork ditch has three reservoirs : the Silver lake, 
which holds 170,000,000 cubic feet; the Red lake, which holds 115,000,000; 
and the Willow valley, which holds 56,000,000 cubic feet. The Gold Hill 
ditch has very muddy water, and sells for an. inch the water which runs through 
an orifice two inches high and an inch wide under a four-inch pressure. The 
South Forlc canal sells for an inch the amount that escapes from a hole an inch 
square under six inches of pressure. The charge for water is 25 cents per inch 
for mining pm'poses at all seasons. Water for irrigation has been supplied in 
some cases for $7 per acre of vineyard in its second year, when the vines need 
water once or twice a week. The grade of the South Fork flume is four and a 
half feet to the mile. In one place iron pipe is used to carry 50 inches of water 
across a depression 1,600 feet long and 190 feet deep. The pipe has a diameter 
of 10 inches, and the head of the inverted siphon is 20 feet higher than the foot. 
The iron is about a sixteenth of an inch thick. The proprietor, Mr. T. B. Hunt, 
expresses the intention of constructing a ditch to supersede the present flume, to 
be 27 miles longer, to have a grade of 10 or 13 inches per mile, to carry not 
less than 5,000 inches of water, and to supply many places above the level of 
the present flume. 

Pilot Creek Ditch. — The Pilot Creek ditch takes its water from Pilot, 
Little Silver, and Rock creeks, and supplies Georgetown, Volcanoville, Bottle 
Hill, Fairplay, Kelsey, Johntown, Spanish Dry Diggings, Spanish Flat, Green- 
wood, Pilot Hill, and Wild Goose. The main ditch is 60 miles long, and cost 
$180,000, and there are 65 miles of branches which cost $320,000, making the 
total cost $500,000 ; and the present market value is $18,000. The ditch is 
considered one of the best in the State, on account of the small proportion of 
flume and the solidity of the banks, which are seldom broken. The largest 
piece of flume is 300 feet long and 95 feet high. The capacity of the ditch is 
1,500 inches, but it is seldom full. It carries 1,000 inches about nine months 
of the year, and 300 inches at the close of the dry season for three months. The 
length of the main ditch terminating at Wild Goose flat is 60 miles ; the Bottle 
Hill branch, 10 miles ; the Volcanoville branch, 5 miles ; the Kelsey's branch, 
10 miles; the Fairplay branch, 7 miles; the Spanish Dry Diggings branch, 
three miles; the Rock creek feeder, 7 miles; the Rock Canon feeder, three 
miles, and the El Dorado ditch 20 miles. The price for water is 12^ cents per 
inch. 

Michigan Flat Ditch. — The Michigan Flat miners' ditch, on the north 
side of the south fork of the American river, was commenced in 1858 and com- 
pleted in 1860, at a cost of $65,000. It is now assessed at $3,000, but since 
January, 1865, the expenses have been greater than the receipts by $3,019. 
From July, 1862, till January, 1865, the net profit was $13,673. Much of the 
flume was washed away last winter. The water is sold at 20 cents per inch for 
12 hours to placer miners ; at 20 cents per inch to quartz miners for 24 hours ; 
and to farmers at $10 per acre for the season, on an average. The amount 
received in a year for irrigation water is $1,200. 

CoLOMA Ditches. — Two companies supply Coloma on the south side of the 
south fork of the American river, with ditches which caiTy about 500 inches of 
water and are 13 miles long. They supply Coloma and Uniontown, charge the 



198 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEREITORIES 

same rates as the Micliigan Flat miners' ditch, and sell about one-third of their 
water for irrigation. 

Beau River Ditch. — The Bear river and Auburn Water and Mining Com 
pany has 75 miles of main trunk and 250 miles of branches, constructed at a 
cost of 81,000,000, and now assessed at $25,000. In 1863 the receipts were 
$90,000 ; in 1864, $75,000 ; in 1865, $55,000 ; and in 1866, $40,000. The 
ditch takes its water from Bear river, and supplies Auburn, Illinoistown, New 
Castle, Pine Grove, Virginiatown, Clover Valley, Antelope Ravine, Secret Ravine, 
Miners' Ravine, Mississippi Bar, Rattlesnake Bar, Horseshoe Bar, Doten's Bar, 
Rose Flat, Millertown, Doty's Ravine, Doty's Flat, and Whiskey Diggings — in 
fact, the whole country between the American river and Bear river, extending 25 
miles from north to south, and as many more from east to west. It is estimated 
that $50,000,000 have been Avashed out by means of the water of this ditch, and 
could not have been obtained without it. The Bear River ditch cames 3,000 
inches when full, and the Gold Hill ditch 1,500 ; but in September the two do 
not carry more than 2,000 inches. The Bear River ditch had 13 miles of flume 
on the line when first made, but since then ditch has been substituted for all save 
half a mile. In one place there was a flume 139 feet high and 900 feet long, 
erected at a cost of $22,000, and ditch has been substituted for it. This corn-, 
pany has been notable for its litigation, in which it has expended $250,000, and 
some of the judgments rendered against it have bcennotoriousfor their injustice. 

Michigan Bluff Ditch. — The El Dorado Water Company obtains its water 
fi-om El Dorado canon, and supplies Michigan BluiF and vicinity. The main 
ditch is 20 miles long, and the total length of ditch and branches 35 miles. The 
amount of water carried is 400 inches during the rainy season, but the ditch is 
dry after the middle of July. The ditch was commenced in 1853 and finished 
in 1855, at a cost of $100,000. It is now assessed at $8,000. In the spring 
the demand for the water is not equal to the supply. The price is 15 cents per 
inch, delivered under a six-inch pressure. 

Dutch Flat Ditch.— The Dutch Flat Ditch Water Company's ditch has 
a capacity of 3,000 inches, takes its w'ater from the north fork of the American 
river and from Little Bear river, and supplies Dutch Flat, Gold Run, Nary Red, 
and Lost Camp, and formerly it supplied Blue Bluff. The length of the ditch 
and branches is 60 miles, the original cost $100,000, and the present assessed 
value $40,000. For three months 4,000 inches are sold per day; but for the 
last four months of the dry season the amount is not more than 400 inches. The 
water is sold under six inches of pressure, at 12^ cents per inch. The Central 
Pacific railroad runs for portion of its route very near the ditch, and has done 
very serious damage to it. The direct loss so far has been not less than $60,000. 
The railroad has become owner of the ditch itself, where it crosses the sections 
belonging to the road ; but has not charged the water company anything for the 
privilege of using the land. But in consequence of the near proximity of the 
railroad cutting and embankment the ditch was ruined for about a mile and a 
half, and it was necessary to erect 3,000 feet of flume, and to lay down 3,500 feet 
of 31-inch iron pipe, and 837 feet of 32-inch pipe. The ditch began to supply 
water in 1851. 

South Yuba Ditch. — The South Yuba Canal Company takes water from 
the South Yuba, Deer creek. Rock creek, Meadow lake, and other lakes in the 
neighborhood of Meadow lake, and supplies Nevada, Chalk Bluff, You Bet, 
Omega, Alpha, Blue Tent, Quaker Hill, Scotch Flat, and Grass Valley, in 
Nevada county, and Dutch Flat and Gold Run, in Placer county. The company 
owns several ditches, Avhich measure in all 275 miles in length, and cost 
$1,000,000. Bean's History and Directory of Nevada County says : *' In 12 
years the expense account of the company reaches $1,130,000, and its receipts 
$1,400,000." A dam 42 feet high and 1,150 feet long was built across the outlet 
of Meadow lake, which when full is a mile and a quarter long and half a mile wide. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 199 

There is a tunnel 3,800 feet long, cut at a cost of $112,000 througli a divide be- 
tween the South Yuba and Deer creek. The company control about 12,000 inches. 

The South Yuba ditch, in Placer county, is 26 miles long-, beginning at the 
lower end of Bear valley, and supplying Gold Run, India Hill, Canon creek, 
and Nary Red. The ditch was completed in 1SG5, and it runs 2,500 inches. 
There is usually demand for all the water. The assessed value is 620,000. The 
grade of the ditch is 13 feet to the mile. The largest flume is 48 feet high, and 
100 feet long. The head of the ditch is so elevated that the water is sometimes 
full of snow, and is unfit for hydraulic washing or for any other kind of mining. 
The cost of the ditch was $108,000. 

Truckee Ditch. — The Trackee ditch, to supply IMinnesota and other points 
in the vicinity on the Blue lead, near the southern line of Sierra comity, was 
constructed in 1858, and was abandoned and went to ruin in 1865. It is 
said the cost of the ditch was $1,000,000. As the diggings grew poor, the ditch 
ceased to pay for the expense of repairs. There were 13 miles of flume, eight 
feet wide and four feet deep, hung on the side of a steep canon. An artificial 
lake was made for a reservoir. The capacity of the ditch was 3,000 inches. 

Seaes's Ditch. — Sears's Union Ditch is, with its branches, 18 miles long, 
and supplies Howland Flat, Pine Grove, Potosi, St. Louis, and Cedar Grove. It 
cam"es 2,000 inches for four months in the wet season, and about 200 inches in 
October. There are two miles of fluming. An extension of the ditches has been 
commenced, to be 20 miles long, and to cost $50,000. The charge is 30 cents 
per inch for 24 hours for piping companies, and 50 cents for drifting companies. 
The water is sold under a pressure of 10 inches, measured from the middle of 
the orifice. There is a demand for all the water, except in the spring. The 
extension is to supply Scales's Diggings and Poverty Hill. At the latter point 
the company is also cutting a bed rock tunnel six leet high, six feet wide, and 
500 feet long to di'ain a basin nearly a mile square of rich ground. The tunnel 
is to be finished next year. 

Nevada Reservoir Ditch. — The Nevada Reservoir Ditch Company takes 
1,000 inches of water from Wolf creek, and supplies Sucker Flat and Mooney 
Flat. The main ditch is 28 miles long, and in that distance there are not more 
than 600 feet of flume, the highest 12 feet. The ditch was commenced in 1857, 
and finished in 1860, at a cost of $116,000. The company does not sell any water, 
but uses it all on Sucker Flat, in its own claims. There has been no washing 
at Mooney Flat for two years. 

Excelsior Ditch. — The Excelsior Canal Company owns the Excelsior, the 
Boyyer, the Tunnel, and the Onsley Bar ditches. The first named takes 1,500 
inches from the South Yuba. It was commenced in 1854, and finished in 1858. 
The supply is constant, and the length is 28 miles. The Bovyer is 20 miles 
long, and takes 2,000 inches from Deer creek, opposite Rough and Ready ; but 
the supply fails in the summer. The work was commenced in 1858, and finished 
in 1859. The Tunnel ditch, commenced in 1851, and finished in 1852, is 20 
miles long, and takes 1,000 inches from Deer creek. It fails in the surnmer. 
The Ousley Bar ditch is 10 miles long, and starts at Smartsville, where it is fed 
with 800 inches of fresh water from other ditches. It was commenced in 1852, 
and finished in 1853. On the Excelsior ditch there are five miles of low flume, 
and half a mile of 40-inch iron pipe, a mile of 20-inch pipe, and half a mile of 
SS^inch pipe. The 40-inch pipe crosses a depression 150 feet deep, and with a 
head of 32 feet, carries 2,500 inches of water. The original cost of the four 
ditches was $1,000,000. The water is discharged under 10 inches of pressure, 
measured from the centre of the oriflce. The price is 20 cents per inch for less 
than 100 inches; 15 cents per inch for more, and for imgation there is no fixed 
price; but a field of 10 or 15 acres pays $50 for a season. The amount of water 
is about 5,000 inches for eight months, 3,500 for two months, and 2,500 for the 
last two months before the rains come. 



200 



KESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



FoEBESTOWN DiTCH. — Tlie South Feather Water Company gets water from the 
south fork of Feather river, and supplies Forbestown, Brownsville, Hansonville, 
E vansville, Wyandotte, Bangor, and Brown's valley, and, in fact, the entire divide 
between the South Feather and the North Yuba. The main ditch is 30 miles long, 
and the branches 30 miles more. The work was commenced in 1855, and finished 
in 1857. There is one mile of flume on the main ditch. The highest part is 
60 feet high, but very little of that. The original cost of the ditch was $300,000, 
and its present assessed value is $25,000. The ordinary charge per inch for 24 
hours is 30 cents, and for 12 hours 20 cents; but there are places where the water, 
after being sold, can be picked up and sold again, and there the price is 10 cents 
for 12 hours. It is probable that a branch will be constructed to Indiana Ranch 
and Oregon Hill, at which latter place there is a large body of rich ground. 

Oroville Ditch. — The Oroville ditch has a main trunk 22 miles long, and 
was finished in 185C. The original cost was $250,000, and the present assessed 
value is $20,000. The capacity is 800 inches, and the supply exceeds the demand. 
The price is 50 cents per inch for drift claims, 10 cents for hydraulic and sluice 
claims, and $1 25 per acre per week for irrigation. 

Table or Canals and Water Ditches. — The following complete table 
of all the canals and water ditches for mining puiposes in the State is taken from 
Langley's Pacific Coast Directory, a valuable work published biennially in San 
Francisco. As many of these properties have been consolidated or changed hands 
since the table was prepared, the names of the owners are omitted. Mr. Langley 
says: 

There are 5,328 miles of artificial water courses, for mining purposes, constructed in this 
State, at a cost of $15,575,400. In addition to the length here stated, there are numerous 
subsidiary branches, tlie aggregate length of which is estimated at over 800 miles, and seve- 
ral hundred miles of new ditches in the course of construction. 

In addition to those enumerated above, there are numerous enterprises organized to furnish 
water for municipal and agricultural purposes. Twenty-seven cities and towns in the inte- 
rior are thus supplied, and the capital employed amounts to several millions of dollars. The 
Spring Valley Water Works, of San Francisco, is an extensive and costly undertaking, with 
a capital of $6,000,000. The county of Los Angeles has nearly 300 miles of ditches, and 
extensive works for the supply of water have been completed in San Bernardino, Yolo, and 
several other agricultural counties of the State. 

Tahle of canals and tvater diklics for mining purposes in the State, loitli the loca- 
tion, source of water, length, cost, dx., of each. 



Name of ditch. 



AMADOR COUNTY. 



Amador 

Amador Co. Canal... 

Boyle 

Buckeye 

Buena Vista 

Butte Canal 

Cosumnes Water Co. 

Dry Creek 

Indian Gulch 

Indian Gulch 

Kellum Ditches (3) .. 

Lancha Plana 

Lorees 

Meeks ., 

Mile Gulch 

Open Cut Flume 

Pardees 

Purinton's 



Source of water. 



Sutter creek 

Mokelumne river, north fork . 



Sutter creek, north fork 

Sutter creek, north fork 

Mokelumne river, north fork . 
Cosumnes rivor, south fork .. 

Dry creek 

Jackson creek, middle fork .. 

Rancheria creek 

Jackson creek, middle fork. . . 
Jackson creek, middle fork... 
Rancheria creek, south fork.. 

Jackson creek, south fork 

Rancheria creek 

Sutter creek ,. 

Jackson creek, south fork ... 
Sutter creek, middle fork 



13 

66 



15 

50 
22 

4 
10 

3 
22 
30 



Cost. 



2 
4 

n 



25 



$20, 000 

400, 000 

3, 500 

3,000 

18, 000 
125, 000 

40, 000 
6, 000 

10,000 
2, 000 

22, 000 

30, 000 
2, 000 
1,500 
2, 001) 

90, 000 



15,000 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



201 



Table of canals and ivater difcJies, dx. — Continued. 



Name of ditch. 



Source of water. 



S a 



Cost. 



AMADOR COUNTY — Continued. 



Pbelps&Co 

Pigeon Creek 

Potosi 

Proctor, Walker &, Co.'s .. 

Eeichling & Alt (2) 

Eichtmyer 

Rich & Co.'s 

Eitter 

Sutter Creek and Volcano. 
Volcano 



CUTTE COUNTY. 



Abbott & Co . . 

Butte Creek 

Cherokee Co... 

Deweys ... 

Forbestown 

Hutchings 

Little Butte 

Oregon Gulch . . . 

Eock Creek 

Spring Valley... 
Table Mountain 
Williams 



CALAVERAS COUNTY. 



Calaveras County Ditch Co 

Campo Seco & Mok. Hill Canal Co. 

Clark & Co.'s 

Conrad's 

Fisher's 

Fisher's 

Harris 

Kadish 

Old Gulch 

Piilsbury's 

Pope 

San Antonio 

Table Mountain 

Union 

Union Water Co 



Dry creek 

Cosumnes river, south fork . . . 

Dry creek 

Jackson creek 

Sutter creek, south fork 

Dry creek 

Big Bar canon 

Cosumnes river 

Sutter creek 

Mokelumne river, tributaries. 



Butte creek 

Table mountain 

Feather river, west branch 
South Feather river 



6 
7 
5 

14 
8 

15 
5 

25 
7 

43 



H 
10 
10 

11 



Butte creek 

Oregon gulch . . . 

Eock creek 

Spring valley . . . 
Table mountain. 



DEL NORTE COUNTY. 



Bunker Hill 

Cox & Frazier 

Curley Jack 

Grider's 

Independence 

Indian Flat 

Lone Pine 

McLaughlin 

Moore's 

Patrick's 

Quartz Gulch , 

Stevens W. M. & M. Co I Coon creek and Craig's creek. 

WingatcBar | Oak Flat creek . 



Stanislaus river 

Mokelumne river 

Mokelumne, south fork 

Mokelumne, forks 

Mokelumne, middle fork 

Mokelumne, north fork 

Mokelumne, middle fork 

Mokelumne, middle fork 

O'Niel's creek 

Lincoln Fork, Mokelumne river. 

Willow creek 

San Antonio creek 

San Antonio creek 

Murray creek 

Stanislaus, north fork 



Independence creek 

Myer's creek 

Grider creek 

Grider creek , 

Independence creek.. 

Myer's creek 

Indian creek 

Euxton's creek 

Buzzard Hill creek . . 
Buzzard Hill creek .. 
Quartz gulch. 



2 
14 
3 
3 
4 
4 
2 



36 
36 
25 

8 
15 
20 

7 
12 
10 
12 

7 
15 
28 
10 
50 



4* 

2 

3 

2 

1 

3 

4 

2 

2 

2 

n 

7 
1 



$6, 000 

8,000 

2,500 

16, 000 

10,000 

10, 000 

4,000 

150, 000 

18,000 

140, 000 



700 

10,000 

5,000 

20, 000 



1,000 
8,000 
3,000 
1,200 
4,000 
6,000 
2,000 



150, 000 

8(),'6oO 
20, 000 
15, 000 
20, 000 
10, 000 
11,000 
15, 000 
10,000 
8,000 
15,000 
40, 000 
10, 000 
350, 000 



18,000 
1,000 
3,000 
1, 500 
4,000 
3,500 
8,000 

800 
1,000 
2,000 

400 

15, 000 

2,OoO 



202 EESOURCES OP STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Table of canals and ivatcr ditches, dc. — Continued. 



Name of ditch. 



EL DORADO COUNTY. 



Brownsville 

Cataract 

Clay Hill 

Ea^le 

El Dorado & Tunnel Hill.... 

Eureka Canal Co 

Foster 

Gold Hill 

Granite Creek 

Iowa 

Italian 

Jones's Hill 

Michigan Bar ! 

Montezuma 

Parker 

Pilot Creek 

Mull's (3) 

Rock Creek & Michigan Flat. 

Rossiugton 

Roush &. Simpus 

Slianghae 

Shober 

South Fork Canal 

Texas 

Webber 



INYO COUNTY, 



San Carlos. 



KI-AMATII COUNTY. 



Camp Creek 

Cecilville 

Nordheimer Creek 

Petersburg 

Sawyer's Bar 

Sundry other ditches . 



LASSEN COUNTY. 



Adams 

Adams & Batchelder 

Emerson 

Susanville 



MARIPOSA COUNTY, 



Mortons 

Snow Creek. 



MONO COUNTY. 



Mono 



NEVADA COUNTY. 



Buckman & Currans. 

E. Williams 

Empire Co.'s 



Source of water. 



Cosumnes river, south fork 

Cosumnes river, south fork 

Hangtown creek 

Cosumnes river 

American river, south fork 

Cosumnes river, north fork 

Hangtown creek 

Hangtown creek 

American river, south fork 

Iowa and Brush canons 

Chunk canon 

Otter creek 

Cosumnes river, middle fork 

Hangtown creek 

Webber creek 

Pilot and Rock creek 

Hangtown creek 

Am. river S. F., and Rock creek. 
Webber creek and Chunk canon . 

Canon creek 

Cosumnes river, middle fork 

Big caiion 

American river, south fork 

Hangtown creek 

Chunk canon 



Owen's river. 



Camp creek 

Salmon river, east fork.. 

Nordheimer's creek 

Salmon river, south fork. 
Salmon river, north fork . 



Susan river . . 
Susan river . . 
Willow creek . 
Piute creek . . 



Maxwell's creek. 
Snow creek 



Virginia creek. 



Steep Hollow creek. 

do 

Shady creek 






8 
6 
2 
8 
10 
450 
o 

12 

3 

21 

3 

15 

20 

10 

10 

150 

13 



10 
10 
16 
5 
334 

n 



15 



1 

2 

5 

3 

73 



4 

8 



15 
10 



20 



13 
16 
13 



Cost. 



$15,000 

10, 000 

500 

500 

15,000 

500, 000 

1,200 

12,000 

9,000 

20, 000 

3,000 

10,000 

60, 000 

6,000 

30, 000 

300, 000 

4,000 

150, 000 

30, 000 

6,000 

12, 000 

5,000 

300, 000 

, 300 

16, 000 



30, 000 



2, 000 
7,500 
2,600 
7,000 
5,000 



7,000 

5, 000 

12, 000 

2,000 



10,000 
800 



75, 000 



20, 000 
40, 000 
50, 000 



WEST OF THE KOOKY MOUNTAINS. 
Table of canals and tvater ditclies, d'c. — Continued. 



203 



Name of ditch. 



NEVADA COUNTY — Continued. 



Eureka Water Co 

Excelsior Canal Co — 

Gardner's 

Nevada Water Co 

Remington Hill 

Sargent & Jacob's 

South Yuba Canal Co. 

Stehr's 

Union 



PLACER COUNTY. 

American River W. & M. Co . 

Auburn & Bear River 

Bartlett & Thomas 

Byrd's Valley 

Dutch Flat Water Co 



El Dorado Water Co... 
Gold Hill and branches. 

Grizzly , 

Hall & Hubbard's 

Hancock 

Hills 

Independent 

Indian 

Indiana Water Co 

Jamison 

McKee 

McKinstry 

Miner's 

Mountain 

North Shirt Tail 

Secret Canon 

South Yuba .♦... 

Todd's Valley 

Union 

Union, Yankee Jim 

Volcano 



PLUMAS COUNTY. 



Burton Gulch 

Cascade Water Co 

Feather River and Warren Hill. 

Grub Flat 

Humbug 

Hungarian Hill 

Indian Bar 

Mosquito 

Mount Pleasant 

Nelson Point 

Pioneer 

Plumas 

Richmond Hill 

Saw Mill & Taylor Hill 

Spanish Ranch 

Spring Garden 

Twelve-Mile Bar 

Do 

Do 

Do 



Source of water. 



Middle and South Yuba rivers 

South Yuba and Deer creek 

Bear river 

Shady creek 

Steep Hollow creek 

Greenhorn creek 

South Yuba river 

Greenhorn creek 

do 



American river 

Bear river 

..-.do 

Volcano caiion 

American river, north fork, and 
Little Bear river. 

El Dorado canon 

Bear river 

Shirt Tail canon 

Bear river 

Volcano caiion 

Indian caiion 

Volcano canon 

Indian caiion 

Caiion creek 

Indian caiion 

Shirt Tail caiion 

Owl creek 

Shirt Tail canon, south fork 

Deep canon 

Shirt Tail canon 

.Secret canon 

South Yuba river 

Volcano caiion 

Shirt Tail caiion 

do 

Volcano canon 



Burton gulch 

South Feather river 

do 

Mead Valley creek 

Butte creek 

Slate creek 

Chipp's creek 

Mosquito creek 

Silver lake 

Nelson creek 

Feather river, south fork. 

Silver lake 

Onion Valley creek 

Mill creek 

Spanish creek 

Spring Garden creek 

Rush creek 

do 

do 

do 



Cost. 



^^ 



150 
69 
22 
13 
16 

r)G 

200 
4 



22 

90 

220 

3 

GO 

31 

40 

13 

10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

2 
15 
25 
20 

7 
12 
16 
25 
12 

8 
12 
10 



4 
15 
14 

4 

4 
2 
3 
3 

10 
6 

10 



30 
4 
4 
2 
2 
2 



$30, 000 
40, 000 
40, 000 
30, 500 
1,500,000 
4,500 
12,000 



100,000 

650,, 000 

65, 000 

2,000 

100, 000 

100, 000 

110,000 

5,000 

50, 000 

15, 000 

10, 000 

10,000 

10, 000 

10, 000 

4,000 

23, 000 

9,000 

35, 000 

15, 000 

25, 000 

100, 000 

50, 000 

32, 000 

9,000 

128, 000 
15, 000 



5,000 

30, 000 

20, 000 

5,000 

6,000 

2,000 

3,000 

4,000 

30, 000 

30, 000 

10,000 

25, 000 

12, 000 

15,000 

15, 000 

4-) 000 

8,000 

1,500 

1,000 

2.550 



204 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

TaUe of canals arid water ditches, dx. — Continned. 



Name of ditch. 



SACRAMENTO COUNTY. 

American River W. & M. Co 

Deer Creek W. & M. Co 

NatomaW. & M. Co 

Sacramento & Amador Canal Co. . 

SHASTA COUNTY. 



Arbnckle 

Bald Hill 

Cedar Flat.... 
Clear Creek... 
Cottonwood... 

Davis 

Do 

Eagle 

Know Mucket. 

Prairie 

Quartz Hill... 
Sacramento — 
Spring Creek.. 

Toson 

Watson 



SIERRA COUNTY. 



American 

Arnott , 

Council Hill , 

Cox Bar , 

Depot , 

Feather River , 

Fiddle Creek 

Fisk , 

Goodyear's Bar 

Grass Flat , 

Green «& Purdy 

Grizzly Hill 

Hosier 

Humbug 

Indian Hill 

Irish 

Jim Crow 

Kanaka 

Kimball 

Rock Creek 

Said & Reese 

Sailor 

Sayer's Union (4) 

Slate Creek &. Gibsonville. 

Snow Creek 

Truckee 

Waukegan 



SISKIYOU COUNTY. 



Altona, Mugginsville. 

Altona, Oro Fino 

Barker, Oro Fino 

Barkhouse 

Brown 



Source of water. 



American river. 
Cosumnes river. 
American river. 
Cosumnes river. 



Cottonwood, middle fork. 

Cottonwood creek 

Whiskey creek 

Clear creek 

Cottonwood creek 

Clear creek 

do 

Eagle 

Clear creek 

Cottonwood, north fork 

Churn creek 

Sacramento creek 

Spring creek 

Clear creek 

Jerusalem 



Little Grizzly creek 

Fiddle creek 

Rock creek 

Yuba river 

Indian creek 

Feather river, south branch . 

Fiddle creek 

Goodyear's creek 

Yuba river 

Grass flat 

Little Grizzly caiion > 

Cherokee creek 

Cannon creek 

Humbug caiion 

do. 

Yuba river o 

Jim Crow canon 

Ladies' caiion 

Bunker Hill 

Rock creek 

Sardine lake 

Shower branch 

Slate creek and tributaries . . 

Slate creek, west branch 

Snow creek 

Truckee lake 

Slate creek, west branch 



Kidder's creek. 

do 

do , 

Barkhouse 

Kidder's creek. 



30 
6 

16 
6 



12 

8 

3 

53 

18 
8 
2 

16 

4 

17 

8 
22 
10 

3 
17 



7 
7 
3 
1 

H 

2 

c> 

4 
2 
3 
4 
2 
11 
3 
3 



2 
6 
3 
7 
6 
15 
3 
4 



16 

15 

12 

5 

9 



Cost. 



$300, 000 
133. 000 
390, 000 
125, 000 



10,000 
15,000 

3,000 
140,000 
10, 000 
12, 000 
10, 000 
10, 000 

5,000 
15, 000 

4,000 
25, 000 
16, 000 

4,000 
18, 000 



50, 000 

12, 000 

4,000 

2, 500 

3,000 

4,000 

1,500 

18, 000 

5,000 

2,500 

13, 000 

3,000 

50, 000 

2,000 

6,000 

5,000 

12, 000 

14,000 

40, 000 

10,000 

34, 000 

10, 000 

150, 000 

10,000 

9, 000 



r.ooo 



3,000 
4,000 
4,000 
2,000 
3,500 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



205 



TaUe of canals andtvater dltcJies, dr. — Continued. 



Name of ditch. 



SISKIYOU COUNTY — Continued. 



Callahan's Ranch. . . 

Cottonwood 

Crawford's 

French Flats 

FortGoff 

Hawkinsville 

Jackson's Bar 

McKinney's Creek.. 

Muggins ville 

Quartz Hill 

Quartz Valley 

Scott Bar 

Scott River 

Shasta River Canal. 

Siad Valley 

WhitinffHill 



STANISLAUS COUNTY. 



Kappelmann Co 

Knight's Ferry & Table Mt. 

La Grange 

Mountain Brow 

San Joaquin 



TRINITY COUNTY. 



Attingers 

Canyon Creek 

Canyon Creek W 

Carder's 

Carrier Gulch 

Chapman's 

Currie's 

Depinett's 

Dunham's 

EastFork 

East Fork 

Eastman's 

Evans' Bar 

Fegan's 

Fenning's 

Gold Bluff 

Hatchet Creek 

Honest Bar 

Junction City 

Junction City 

Lewistown 

Mooney's Gulch 

North Fork 

North Fork 

Ohio Flat 

Pettijohn & Co. (3) 

Poverty Flat 

Red Flat 

Red Hill 

Red Hill 

Ridgeville 

Rush Creek 

Steiner's Flat 

Strattion's 

Swift Creek 

Taylor Flat 



Co.'s. 



Source of water. 



Scott river, south fork. 

Cottonwood creek 

do 

Scott river, south fork. 

Turner creek 

Greenhorn creek 

McKinney creek 

do 

Howard creek 

Mill creek 

Howard creek 

Mill creek 

Scott river 

Shasta river 

Klamath river 

Lake Whiting 



Six-mile bar 

Stanislaus river . . 
Tuolumne river... 
Littlejbhn's creek. 
Stanislaus river . . 



Indian creek 

Guzner gulch 

Canyon creek 

Eastman gulch 

Carrier gulch 

Soldier creek 

Franklin creek 

Canyon creek, east fork 

Mooney gulch 

East Fork 

East Fork of north fork 

Eastman's gulch 

Maxwell's creek 

Clear gulch 

Grizzly gulch 

McKinley gulch 

Hatchet creek 

Trinity river, north fork 

Canyon creek 

Canyon creek 

Deadwood creek 

Mooney's gulch 

Trinity river, north fork 

Logan creek 

Grass Valley creek 

Mooney and Calvin gulches. 

East Weaver 

Gwin gulch 

Conner's creek 

Rush creek 

Stuart's Fork, east fork 

Rush creek 

Brown's creek 

Indian creek 

Swift creek 

French creek 



S fee 



4 
5 
6 
3 
4 
5 
4 
7 
5 
20 
85 
4 
3 



10 

7 

7 

4 

15 



2 
2 
4 
1 
2 
2 
2 
5 
2 
5 
2 
3 
2 
3 
2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
5 

u 

1 

2 

u 



Cost. 



10, 500 
8,000 
800 
3, 000 
4,000 
2,500 
3,000 
2,800 
2,500 
2,500 
4,000 

40, 000 

300i 000 

2,000 

2,500 



60, 000 
25, 000 
40, 000 
5,000 
40,000 



3,500 
3,000 

12, 000 
1,500 
2,000 
4,000 
4,000 
8,000 
3,000 
6,000 
3,000 
6,000 
2,000 
4,000 
2,000 
2,000 
5,000 
6,000 
5,000 

10, 000 
2, 500 
3,500 
2,000 
2,000 
2,000 
5,000 
1,500 
1,000 
6,000 
1,500 

10,000 
8,000 

10,000 
2,000 
4,000 

10,000 



206 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

TaUe of canals and water ditches, &c. — Continued. 



Name of ditch. 



Source of water. 



(P fee 



Cost. 



TRINITY COUNTY— Continued. 



Trinity Centre 

Turner Bar Co.'s.. 

Wares (3) 

Weaver Creek 

Weaver Creelc 

Weaverville Basin. 



Swift creek 

Redding's creek 

East & West Weaver creeks. 

Weaver creek 

Weaver creek 

Weaver creek 



TULARE COUNTY. 



Broder «&- Van Gordan 

Brown's Mill 

Campbell & Martins 

Davenport's 

Everton's 

Fisher's 

Jenning's 

Johnson's 

Long Ditch 

Lowry, Worthley & Co 

Owen's 

People's 

Reservation 

Rice's 

Town Ditch 

Townsend's 

Union Vineyard &. Farming Co.. 

TUOLUMNE COUNTY. 

Big Oak Flat 

Hydraulic Co 

Jamestown & Chinese Camp 

Phcenix Water Co 

Sonora and Yorktown D. Co 

Tuolumne County Water Co 



Kawiah 

Packwood creek. . . 

Tule river 

Sand creek 

Kawiah 

Sand creek 

Mill creek 

Deep creek 

Kawiah 

Sand creek 

Sand creek 

Kawiah 

Tule river 

Kawiah 

Brown's Mill ditch. 

Sand creek 

Kawiah 



Tuolumne river 

Tuohmine river, north fork. 
Wood creek 

Tuolumne river, north fork. 
Tuolumne river, north fork. 
Stanislaus river, south fork.. 



YUBA COUNTY 



Birmingham 

Brown's 

Burnett's 

Camptonville 

Collyer 

Deavcr's 

Dennison's 

Dunn's 

Excelsior Canal Co. 

Feather River 

Little Willow 

McQueen's 

Monroe «& Cornell.. 

Mrock's 

Mullan's 

Never's 

New York 

Nine Horse 

Oregon Creek 

Peacock 

Pine Hill 

Sleighville 



Strawberry creek . 

Oregon creek 

Dry creek 



Dry creek 

Oregon gulch . 



Spencer 



Sleighville gulch.. 

Deer creek 

Feather river 

Willow creek 

Dry creek 

New York ravine. 

Dry creek 

Dry creek 

Indian creek 

Oregon creek 

New York ravine. 

Oregon creek 

Yuba river 

Bear river 

Sleighville gulch . . 

Dry creek 

Oregon creek 

Indian creek 



2 

4 

11 

2 
4 



5 
3 
4 
2 
2 
3 
4 
7 
3 
2 
4 
10 
4 
5 
4 
H 



40 
50 
7 
100 
10 
35 



150 



Turffrey's Dry creek 



$2, 000 
6,000 

12, 000 
2,000 
6,000 

10, 000 



1,000 
4,000 
1,500 
1,500 
3,000 

800 
1,000 
1,.500 

800 

700 
1,000 
8,000 
2,000 
2, 000 
2, 000 

500 
1,500 



600, 000 

300, 000 

15,000 

300, 000 

"550,' 000 



1,500 

500 

10, 000 

3,000 

600 

. 900 

500 

1,500 

500, 000 

10, 000 

1,200 

8,000 

12, 000 

600 

1,000 

2,000 

600 

500 

6,000 

1,000 

1,600 

2,000 

3,000 

10,000 

6,000 

8,000 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 207 

SECTIOJf XX^ 

THE MISCELLANEOUS MINERALS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 

In refening to the nature, extent, and development of the miscellaneous min- 
erals found on the Pacific coast, exclusive of gold, silver, and quicksilver, the 
materials are so abundant, and the details so interesting, as to render it dif- 
ficult to select such portions as will convey the desired information Avithin the 
limits prescribed. When it is remembered that there is scarcely a metal or min- 
eral used in the ai^ts, or known to science, but is represented on this coast — gen- 
erally in greater proportion than in any other country — it will be perceived that 
a mere list of their names, and of the localities in which they are found, would 
occupy more space than would be desirable in an official document. This branch 
of the report is, therefore, confined to a few facts relating to the best known and 
most important of these products. The details, though necessarily incomplete, con- 
tain sufficient data upon which to base an opinion of the extent and variety of 
the miscellaneous mineral resources of the Pacific slope. 

Copper. — This branch of mining, which was in process of development la,st 
year, is at present in a depressed condition. Various circumstances, briefiy referred 
to hereafter, have caused a reduction in the value of metallic copper in tlie mar- 
kets of the world. The depression has been felt more severely by the miners on 
this coast than by those of any other part of the Union, because copper mining 
being in its infancy here, was struggling to secure the aid of capital for its exten- 
sion ; an object the attainment of which is hopeless under existing chcumstances. 
Another drawback has been the increased cost of freight, consequent on the 
demand for vessels to carry wheat, flour, and other produce to the ports to which 
it has been usual heretofore to ship ores and metals. This increase has been 
equal to a reduction of $5 per ton in the value of the ores ; because they must be 
shipped in order to reach smelters and consumers, as there are no regular pur- 
chasers here, except such as buy for expoi-t. 

Reference to some of the causes which have thus crippled the development 
of this source of wealth affords the best means for judging whether such reduc- 
tion is likely to be permanent, or of merely temporary duration. India, for the 
past quarter of a century, has absorbed all the ingot copper sent there from all 
parts of the world. Many of the wealthy natives in the distant interior of that 
country hoarded these ingots as treasure, and- they passed as currency among 
, them. The importations of gold and silver since the discovery of these metals 
in California and Australia, together with the extension of railroads and other 
features of Em-opean civilization in Asia, have almost entirely abolished this 
custom. The precious metals have superseded copper in the business of its 
semi-barbarous people. This change has not only caused a stoppage in the 
demand for copper in what was formerly the best market for its disposal, but 
thousands of tons, the accumulations of years, have been brought out from hiding 
places to be exchanged for the precious metals. It will require years to absorb 
the present supply of copper in India by the manufacturers of that country, par- 
ticularly as most of the utensils and ornaments made of that metal used by the 
people are imported from Europe or the United States. 

The increasing supply of ores from Australia, Cuba, Chifi, Africa, Europe, and 
the United States, before the revulsion in India was severely felt, had already 
begun to exceed the demand ; and, of course, this excess has greatly increased 
since, giving the control of every open market to those countries where it can 
be mined and melted at the lowest cost. 

The increase in the number of vessels built of iron in Europe, and the decline 
in ship-building in the United States, have curtailed the demand for sheathing, 
which a few years since was the chief use to which copper was applied in this 
country. 



208 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Another cause for the decrease in the demand for copper arises from the sub- 
stitution of cheaper metals in the manufacture of articles formerly made of copper, 
and the introduction of processes for depositing copper on other metals by elec- 
tricity, by which a mere film of the dearer metal gives the cheaper one the appear- 
ance, and causes it to serve most of the pm-poses of the other. 

The above are among the leading causes of the present depression in the value 
of copper, and springing, as they do, from circumstances not likely to change 
for the better, the prospects of the copper mines on this coast are not very flat- 
tering. 

The mines of Bolivia and Chili, owned by European capitalists, worked at less 
cost, and more convenient to the English and French markets than those of Cali 
fornia, can drive the ores from this coast out of those markets. The imports of 
South American ores into England in 1866 reached 35,336 tons, while but 4,591 
tons were received from California, and the disproportion will be still greater 
during the present year. During the past six months only 1,211 tons have been 
shij^ped from San Francisco to England, while the receipts from South America 
during the same period exceeded 482,000 quintals of 96 pounds each. The 
present prices of freight and ores forbid any increase of shipments hence during 
this year. South America, in 1866, also sent 86,440 tons of ore to France, a 
market to which our ores cannot be sent Avith profit, unless a great reduction can 
be effected in the expenses of mining and exportation. 

The copper mines of the United States have formidable competitors in the 
European markets in the mines of Africa and Cuba. The richest ores on the 
English market for some time past have been brought from the Cape of Good 
Hope, Africa. These ores average from 30 to 50 per cent. The mines of Cuba 
have also yielded a large quantity of rich ores. The product of fine copper in 
Europe and America, dm'ing 1867, is estimated at 90,000 tons, of which Ijolivia 
and Chili will produce two-thirds. 

The following tables, showing the value of ores in England during the past 
three years, and the cost of their production on this coast, explain the causes why 
California cannot compete ^dth Chili in supplying the European markets. As 
the prices at Swansea, Wales, regulate the whole European market, it is only 
necessary to give the rates at that place. 

Price of copper ores at Swansea in 1865, 1866, and 1867. 



Grade. 



10 per cent per ton. 

17 per cent do... 

21 per cent , do... 



1865. 



$41 50 
66 62 
91 62 



1866. 1867. 



$33 87 
58 75 
67 62 



$36 50 
66 50 
69 75 



Cost of extracting and delivering ores at Swansea. 

Mining per ton. 

Baf^s do... 

Sorting do... 

Wear and tear of machiuery .do 

Interest on capital do 

Freight to San Francisco do... 

Freight to Swansea ..do... 

Commissions, &c ^ do... 

Insurance do... 

Cartage, wharfage, Slq , do... 

Total expenses do... 



$14 00 


4 00 


1 00 


1 50 


1 50 


10 00 


15 00 


5 00 


1 50 


50 


54 00 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 209 

By comparing these expenses with the list of "prices above, it will readily be 
perceived that ores under 15 per cent, do not cover expenses. As seven-eighths 
of the ores obtained on this coast do not reach that standard, it is unprofitable to 
extract them. The same figures apply to the marhets at New York and Boston. 
As more than three-fomths of the ores smelted in Europe and the Atlantic States 
do not average 15 per cent., it is clear that the mines whence such ore is obtained 
possess a great advantage over those on the Pacific coast, entirely through the 
saving in cost of labor and transportation. 

The statistics relating to the copper mines of England, published by authority 
of the government of that country in 1S6G, show that during that year 198,298 
tons of ore were obtained from the English mines, which yielded 11,888 tons of 
fine copper, or an average of but 5 .9 per cent. This ore, estimated at $25 per 
ton, was valued at $1,907,450. As the mines on this coast could be made to 
produce annually an equal quantity of ore of greater value, the proportions of 
the loss the country sustains b}- their remaining undeveloped deserves considera- 
tion. 

The establishment of comprehensive smelting works at some suitable place, 
with ample capital to conduct operations on a liberal scale, would be a great 
advantage to the country bj^ encoiu'aging the development of this interest, and 
would doubtless in time yield foir returns for the amoiv it i ivested. 

The present plan of erecting temporary smelting woiks near each mine, for 
the purpose of operating on the richest ores, is an injury to the copper interest, 
because it exhausts materials which might be more advantageously employed. 
These temporary works can only operate on the richest oxides, carbonates, and 
silicates, which form but a small proportion of the ores. The great mass of them 
consists of sulphurets, in the reduction of which the oxygen, carbon, and silica 
of the richer ores serve an important purpose. It is the opportunity of selecting 
suitable ores for combining, wliicli the smelters of Wales possess, with a market 
for every kind and grade offered, that enables them to operate so successfully. 
The ores from the Cornish mines are sulphides, and would be too poor to work, 
but for this arrangement. Lime and silica being essential elements in the reduc- 
tion of copper from its ores, common sense teaches that it is more economical to 
employ these elements wlien combined by nature with the metal, than to collect 
them from other sources and mix them artificially, at additional cost. It was to 
secure this advantage that the Boston smelters, dming the past year, sent to 
Wales to purchase a cargo of carbonates to mix the sulphides received from this 
coast, because the miners here, who have large quantities of carbonates, prefer 
converting them into matte. 

None of the English copper miners ever smelt their ores. They are all sent 
to the public market ; smelting and mining being considered separate and distinct 
operations in that country. 

The method of transacting business in the Welsh ore market is peculiar, but 
gives satisfaction, owing to its fairness to bm-er'and seller. All the ores intended, 
for sale are piled and sampled ten days before the sale takes place. During that 
time the smelters desiring to do so can take samples to estimate the value of 
such parcels as they want. Each sends in his bid in VvTiting, sealed, directed to 
the agent having the particular parcel for sale. The highest bidder for any lot 
has it awarded to him. This is a better plan than for miners to be obliged to 
seek purchasers, without knowing the value of the ore in the market. 

New Discoveries. — The circumstances above stated have had the effect of 
I)reventing prospecting for copper to a great extent. But some discoveries have 
been made within the i)resent year, though few of them have been much developed. 
Among the most important are the following : 

The Sierra Buttes copper mine, located near Kurd's ranch. Sierra county. The 
lode on this discovery, which may be traced by its outcrop for nearly a miley 
differs from that in any of the copper mines, in several material respects. It ia 
14 



210 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tlie only body of copper ores of any importance thus far fonnd in the granite on 
this coast, except at Meadow lake, Nevada county, hereafter refeiTed to. 

The ore is contained in a quartzose gangue rock, the lode having a well-defined 
fluccan (as the miners term the soft clay which usually accompanies true veins 
of ore) on the foot wall ; the hanging wall being a hard, compact, feldspathic 
granite, which also constitutes the " country" in which the lode is enclosed. There 
are considerable quantites of molybdenum in the vein-stone, in the form of both 
the sulphite and oxide of that metal. There are other lodes of copper ores in 
the same locality contained in the granite; but each diflers somewhat in compo- 
sition and appearance from all the others, forming an interesting field for scientific 
investigation. The Sierra Buttes is the only one of these lodes that has been 
worked to any extent, owing to its containing sufiicient gold in the gangue rock 
to pay for extraction, though the ore will average 10 ])ex cent, of copper. The 
cost of transportation from that distance to a market over such roads as exist, 
under the present condition of affairs, causes such a grade of ores to be valueless. 
A tunnel is in course of construction on this mine, which when completed will 
strike the lode at a depth of 1,000 feet below the surface. In a shaft sunk on it 
to the depth of 60 feet, the lode was found to be seven feet wide. 

A promising outcrop of copper ore has been found near Marango Pass, San 
Bernardino county, California. 

A company was incorporated at San Francisco in July, 1S67, with a capital 
stock of $240,000, for the purpose of working a copper mine in the Moro district, 
San Luis Obispo county, California. 

In the California mine, at Meadow lake, Nevada county, the highest inhabited 
portion of the Sierra Nevada, at an altitude of 8,000 feet above the level of the 
sea, metallic copper is found in the quartz, the gold and copper in which, though 
intimately mixed, are never alloyed with each other. 

The vein-stone of the lodes in this elevated district carries a percentage of 
copper, generally in the form of sulphurets, combined with those of iron, lead, 
zinc, cobalt, nickel, and arsenic. In the Shooting Star mine, at the depth of 40 
feet, the lode contains an ore which yields 15 per cent, of copper, $40 per ton 
of silver, and $20 per ton of gold. It is proposed to erect fm'uaces to smelt the 
rich but complex ores of this district. 

The Lyons Company's mine, located about three miles from the town of 
Ashton, Colusa county, in the Coast range, contains a body of oxides and cax- 
bonates. A temporary" furnace was erected to work these ores, but being unfit 
for the purpose, one of Haskell's water-lined furnaces is now being built. This, 
though not a new discovery, had not been of much importance till smelting 
operations were commenced. 

Persons who have visited the new Territory of Alaska report it as being rich 
in copper. M. Foucoult, a French gentleman, who spent several months in the 
Territory among the' Indians, states that they Value copper as much as civilized 
men value gold. The chiefs wear masses of it suspended round their necks, as 
highly prized ornaments. Some of the higher chiefs have lumps of the metal 
that weigh several hundred pounds each, which are heir-looms of the tribe, and 
are kept in the great wigwam. This gentleman states, that in order to obtain 
these nuggets of copper, the Indians keep up large fires for weeks on the out- 
croppings of the lodes, which melts the carbonates and oxides near the surface. 
It is a well-known fact, mentioned in the writings of the earlier visitors to this 
coast, that the natives of tliat Territory, and those immediately adjoining, were 
the only tribes that possessed copper weapons and ornaments when first discovered. 

In August, 1866, a discovery of copper ore was made in the mountains, on 
the south branch of King's river, Tulare county, about 68 miles from Fresno 
City. There are four distinct and parallel lodes, a few feet apart from each 
other, in the locality, each containing a percentage of ''horseflesh" ore, or 
•erubescite, in a quartzose gangue rock. The lodes are from two to eight feet 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 211 

wide, and are traceable for several miles, cresting a high hill and across a steep 
canon. An analysis of the ore shows it to contain 60 jier cent, copper, $20 per 
ton in gold, and nearly $60 per ton in silver. Owing to the mountainous 
character of the country, where this discovery was made, but little can be done 
towards its development till a road can be made to convey materials. This will 
involve an expense, which capitalists are not disposed to incur in prospecting 
copper mines at present. If there were no copper in the ledges, there would be 
less difhculty in obtaining funds to prospect them for the gold and silver they 
contain; but the disasters which have befallen the copper interest within the past 
year have cast a feeling of distrust over everything bearing the name or nature of 
copper. There is abundance of wood and water in the vicinity of the discovery; 
and could one of Haskell's furnaces be erected there, the parties who own the 
lodes would probably realize something for their labor and enterprise. 

Several discoveries have been made within the past few months in the moun- 
tains bordering the Tule river, in Tulare county, which have been prospected 
sufficiently to demonstrate their value. The lodes are generally similar in 
character to those found on the south fork of King's river, in the same county, 
and described above. The localities of the two discoveries are about 50 miles 
apart. The lodes on the Tulare are contained in the metamorphic slate, near 
its junction with the granite. 

A body of ore has been partially developed near Copper City, Shasta county, 
on which a company of English capitalists have offered to erect smelting works, 
provided the parties owning the mine will grant them a lease on tenns they 
propose. 

It is stated by parties who have been prospecting in Utah during the past 
season that the croppings of copper ore are abundant in the south and southeast 
sections of that Temtory. Copper ores are reported to have been found in the 
Battle Mountain district, Humboldt county, Nevada, about 90 miles north-north- 
west from Austin. 

The surveyors employed by the Central Pacific Railroad Company report 
the existence of copper-bearing lodee in the Trinity mountains, Humboldt county, 
Nevada. 

Recent Development of the Copper Mines. — The condition of aflfairs, 
resulting from the causes stated, will be best exhibited by showing the extent of 
the development of the mines described in the previous report. This will also 
afford a means for comparison. 

The CoppePvOpolis Mines. — These mines, owing to their extent, the capital 
expended in their development, the value of the ores extracted from them, and 
the quantity at present available for extraction, place them at the head of the 
copper mines on the Pacific coast. 

The Union mine has been but partially worked during 1867. Its owners 
find it more profitable to place it in a condition for future operations, than to 
extract ore for sale at present prices. But little ore has consequently been taken 
out — only such as it was necessary to move in making explorations. The number 
of men employed has been reduced to 150; in 1865 and 1866 nearly 400 were 
employed. The chief work doing at the mine at present is keeping it free from 
water and making the necessary repairs to the works above and below ground. 

The explorations in the main shaft have extended to 500 feet in perpendicular 
depth, where the lode on the north, near the line of the Keystone ground, is 15 
feet wide. At the 400-feet level in the same shaft, 100 feet above, the lode has 
decreased to six feet in width. This increase in its proportions is a favorable 
symptom of pennanence, and proves the correctness of the opinion that the con- 
traction of the lode at the 400-feet level woidd not be permanent. The total 
quantity of ore talcn from this mine from January 1 till July 15, 1867, was 
8,382,855 pounds; total quantity since it was opened in 1861, 108,731,678 
potmds; all of which has been exported to the Atlantic States and Europe, 



212 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

except about 2,376,000 pounds, or 1,000 tons, portions of ^Ylncll remain at tlie 
mine, at Stockton, and San Francisco, ready for sliipment. 

The Ketstone Mine. — Explorations in this mine liave been extensive and 
costly during the past year. The cross-cut toward the south line, in the sixth 
level, at a depth of 350 feet, running from the south or Houghton shaft, struck 
the main lode where it was 10 feet wide, of 15 per cent. ore. It was deemed 
best to sink the main shaft 200 feet, to avoid the necessity of working by a 
winze at so great a distance from the shaft, as it was calculated the shaft would 
strike thij :ode at that depth. At the depth of 552 feet a cross-cut was made 43 
feet in length before the lode was reached. Its width at that depth could not 
be ascertained, owing to the great increase of water, which prevented the men 
drifting till a sufficiently large sump-hole could be made. 

The company have taken out but little ore during the past year, having ceased 
operations, except for exploration, early in April. At present they only employ 
a few men to attend the machinery and pumps, to keep the mine from filling \\ith 
water. The total receipts from the sale of ores taken from tliis mine amount to 
$375,000. The amount of assessments collected exceed $100,000, the whole of 
which has been expended in developing the mine and purchasing machinery. 
The company has never declared a dividend. 

The other Coppeeopolis Mines. — The Empire, Consolidated, and Inini 
itable were Avorked to some extent in the spring ; but have been idle for several 
months. The owners of the latter mine (which is parallel and immediately 
adjoining the Union) had sued that company for taking out ore from their 
ground. The case attracted considerable attention from its novelty and the 
value of the interests involved. It was decided in favor of the Union Company. 

The Napoleon Mine. — The new shaft on this mine was sunk to the depth 
of 195 feet, when work was suspended. No ore has been taken from it during 1867. 

The Campo Seco Mine. — This mine has been partially worked for a few 
months during the present year. Smelting works were erected by the company 
as early as November, 1865, and arrangements made for working economically. 
A railroad a mile in length was constructed for the purpose of conveying the ores 
from the mine to the furnace. By a judicious arrangement in the location of the 
works, the ore, after reaching the surface through the shaft, is carried down to 
the furnaces by its own weight, and these being located on the banks of the 
Mokelumne river, the slag and other waste is dumped into that river at trifling 
cost for labor. 

The smelting works consist of two cupola furnaces and a McKenzie blast, 
moved by a water wheel, and a roasting kiln. The furnaces are built of sand- 
stone and lined with steatite, both of which materials are abundant in the neigh- 
borhood of the works, and appear to be tolerably well adapted for the purpose. 
The object of the company in erecting these works was not to make copper or 
matte of a high standard, but to concentrate the ores obtained below 10 per 
cent, into about 35 per cent, regulus. The experience of the persons in charge 
confiiTOS the remarks heretofore made in relation to the impolicy of each mine 
smelting its own ores. The ores here, like the bulk of all obtained from the 
mines on the cupriferous belt which traverses the State from north to south, are 
nearly pure sulphides of iron and copper, rarely containing more than five per 
cent of silica, and consequently difficult to reduce alone. The average assay of 
20 samples shows 45 per cent, sulphm', 40 per cent, iron, 6 to 10 per cent, copper, 
the remainder being silica, water, &c. To reduce such an ore to regulus it was 
found necessary to add 20 per cent, of quartz, in order to supply sufficient silica 
to combine with the u'on after the liberation of that metal from the sulphur. Had 
silicates of copper or ores contfiining a considerable percentage of quartzose 
gaugue rock been available, a much larger product of copper would have been 
obtained at the same cost of fuel, flux, and labor. 

Even in the processes for roasting the ores in kilns the absence of silica is 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 213 

a great disadvantage and source of loss. The" sulphur, when in sucn excess, as 
in this class of ores, when heated, coats the ores, forming a refractory material 
for future operations. 

The two furnaces on this mine, when in full operation, smelted about eight 
tons of ore and 20 per cent, of quartz in 24 hours. To do this it required 250 
bushels of charcoal daih-, which cost about 20 cents per bushel ; two men to 
attend the furnace as smelters, two to supply materials, two to carry off the slag, 
Avhich, owing to the large proportion of iron and the nature of the flux, was 
large, and two others to prepare the materials for the furnace feeders. Most of 
the work was performed by Chinese labor. 

The Lancha Plak^a Mines. — These mines being under the control of the 
proprietors of the Union, have not been worked during the j-ear. 

The Mines in Amador County. — The Newton, Cosumnes, and Pioneer 
mines, in this county, ceased operations in April, 1867. 

The Mines in Mariposa County. — The principal mine in this coiinty. La 
Victorie, owing as much to disagreements among its stockholders as to the depre- 
ciation in the value of ores, has been idle nearly the whole of the present year. 

Having given a description of this mine in previous report, the following 
particulars relating to its working will be interesting for reference : After an 
examination made by order of the company, the engineer in his report states that 
the mine from the tunnel has been well opened. The foot-wall, where the tun- 
nel enters the vein, is Avell defined ; but, as j^et, the hanging wall had not been 
found, although the vein had been pierced about 70 feet. Two thousand tons 
of ore had been taken out of the mine, chiefly from pockets or smaller veins, 
mixed with the materials which had been thrown into the larger vein. A series 
of deposits of ore exists above the foot-wall, more or less connected, containing 
quantities of black oxide, and until the works are carried below the surface dis- 
turbances the size, value, or permanency of the lode cannot be determined. 
From the indications in the present workings there is reason to believe the mine 
will prove permanent and valuable. The company not having the means to 
obtain proper machinery, had done the best they could under the circumstances. 
The mine is well timbered, and is in good condition for future operations. 

A shaft had been sunk about 90 feet, on an incline which it was supposed 
would intersect the lode. But by a cross-cut run from the bottom it was found 
that the lode had changed in dip. The shaft was therefore sunk nearly vertical, 
so as to strike it about 80 feet below, or on a level with the tunnel. While run- 
ning this cross-cat, seams and deposits of black oxide were met with. 

The extraction of ores while the mine was worked was slow and costly, owing 
to the broken nature of the country rock. The difiiculties that beset the com- 
pany are in part due to the isolated locality of the mine. It is too far from any 
travelled road to obtain the advantage of cheap transportation by teams retmii- 
ing empty from the mountains. The nearest point of shipment is 84 miles, over 
a rougla country. The cost of transportation swallowed up the value of the 
ore. In addition to this, the company conducted its- business on the same extrav- 
agant scale as the richest of the Washoe companies. Its officers, salaries, 
otfice rent in San Francisco, and incidental expenses outside the mine amounted 
to $16,000 per annum. There are few undeveloped mines that could stand such 
a drain. Under more economical management, and with cheaper transportation, 
this mine might add something to the wealth of the State, even at the present 
low price of copper. Its ores are abundant, and of a higher grade than the 
average. 

The Buchanan Mine is located in Hunter's valley, Mariposa county, and 
has been worked at intervals during the past year. The shaft, in June, had 
reached 150 feet in depth, where the lode was found to be seven feet wide, of 
tolerably compact sulphurets. Having oxides, silicates, and carbonates conve- 
nient to the smelting works, this company, during the year, has made 100 tons of 



214 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

60 per cent, inatte, most of wliicli has been forwarded to San Francisco, where 
it remains at present for want of a market. There can be no better illustration 
of the reduction in the value of copper than is afforded by the working of this 
mine. The matte made from its ores in 1865, averaging 60 per cent, of copper, 
sold at San Francisco for 16 cents per pound. The same grade of matte cannot 
be sold at present at nine cents per pound. 

At James's ranch the Green ]\Iountaiu Company have erected smelting works 
and made a few tons of matte. 

None of the other copper mines in this county have been worked during the 
present year. 

The Mines in San Luis Obispo County. — But little having been done 
towards developing the mines in this county during the present year, there are 
no new facts to report concerning them. 

The IMiNES in Los Angeles County. — With the exception of prospecting 
among the claims near the Solidad pass, nothing has been done in this county 
during the past year. 

The Mines in Plumas County. — The Genesee Valley smelting works had 
to cease operations during the winter owing to the weather, and work has not 
been resumed since, the price of copper offering no inducements to the proprie- 
tors to incur the expense of refitting furnaces and mine. 

The Mines in Del Noete County. — With the exception of the Alta none 
of the copper mines in this county have been worked this year. The Alta com- 
pany have been engaged in developing their mine. They have sunk their main 
shaft to the depth of 500 feet, run their tunnel 200 feet, and drifted at several 
levels, finding bodies of ore which appear to improve in quality as the workings 
progress. The disturbed and broken character of the formation ceases at 200 
feet from the surface. The company has sent 400 tons of ore to San Francisco 
since January, 1867, which has been reshipped to New York. The average of 
ore has been about 16 per cent. ; but the costs attending its transportation to San 
Francisco, and reshipment thence to New York, absorbs the value in expenses. 

The Mines in Contra Costa County. — None of the copper mines in this 
county have been worked this year. 

The Mines in Nevada County. — Capital and labor have been expended 
in prospecting the copper mines in the western part of this county, where there 
is a copper-bearing formation extending across it from north to south, on which 
many claims have been located and to some extent explored. The lodes are 
generally large, but the ores are of too low a grade to cover the costs of trans- 
portation. Of several hundred tons sent to New York and Swansea the average 
retm'ns did not exceed nine per cent, of metal. Under more favorable condi- 
tions, with cheap labor and transportation, these mines might be made to pay. 
At present they can only be worked at a loss. 

The first shaft in the district, called the Well, because sunk for the purpose 
of obtaining a suppty of water, is near Spenceville, in Rongh and Ready town- 
ship. It was used as a well for five years, till the excitement about copper in 
1862, when, on cleaning it out, a deposit of sulphurets was exposed 70 feet wide, 
and extending to an indefinite length in the du'ection of the stratification of the 
enclosing metamorphosed clay slate, with a foot-wall and fluccan. But the ore, 
only ranging from eight to nine per cent., did not pay for extraction and transport. 

The Last Chance, the only mine worked for copper in this county, is located 
on this belt, near the Empire ranch. It was discovered in 1863, and has since 
been explored with such satisfactory results as to warrant its owners, who are 
among the most enterprising citizens in the State, (D. 0. Mills, of San Francisco, 
A. Delano, S. D. Bosworth, and E. W. Roberts, of Grass Valley,) to make 
application to procure title from the federal government to the land on which 
the mine is located, the first application of the kind made. A shaft has been 
sunk to the depth of 200 feet, where the lode is found 12 feet wide, of sulphur 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 215 

ets, averaging from 12 to 20 per cent, of metal. Before the rise in price of 
freight a shipment of this ore to Swansea returned a profit of 835 per ton. The 
company own 2,400 feet on this lode. 

Considerable excitement was created in this county towards the close of 1866 
by the discovery of ores in the Fox mine, from which about 40 tons of oxides 
and carbonates were shipped to Swansea in October of that year. But the excite- 
ment ceased as the price of copper declined, though nearly 100 claims were 
recorded during the last quarter of 1866. 

Several small parcels of ores have been received at San Francisco during the 
present year from the Western Star and Green mines, located near the Last Chance 
and on the same lode ; but at present and for several months past none of the 
mines have been worked. 

Other California Copper Mines. — With the exception of the Union 
Company, who own a mine in JMarin county which they prospected for a few 
months in the spring, the above is a full statement of t^ae progress made in cop- 
per mining in California during the year 1867. 

The Oregon Copper Mines. — The Queen of Bronze and other mines in 
this State have been idle during the past year. New discoveries have been 
made, but none of them have been developed sufficiently to prove their value. 
They are referred to merely to show the extent of country on this coast in which 
copper has been discovered. 

The most important of the discoveries have been made in the southern part 
of Douglas county, where croppings of ore exist, not in the form of gossan, as in 
California, but as masses of oxides and carbonates, which will be of importance 
if extensive smelting works should bo erected. 

The mines on Eagle creek. Baker county, have been explored with such results 
as to have induced the owners to enter into a contract with the Oregon Steam 
Navigation Company to cany their ores to San Francisco, at a stipulated price, 
for- a year. 

The Lower California Copper Mines. — The Sauce mine, at Loretto, has 
not been worked during the past year. The shaft on this mine has reached the 
depth of 114 feet, where the lode is seven feet wide, the ore said to average 12 
per cent. 

A few tons of ore were received occasionally at San Francisco from mines 
along the lower coast, during the past spring, but such shipments have entirely 
ceased for several months. 

The Copper Mines of Nevada.* — ]\rost of the ores found in the district of 
Pahranagat, though generally famous for the silver they contain, are more pro23- 
e'rly described as copper ores. They consist chiefly of gray coj^per, copper 
pyrites, erubescite, and other familiar ores of copper, combined with sulphites of 
silver, lead, iron, zinc, &c. No gold has yet been found in the district. These 
ores are contained in a quartzose veinstone in some ledges ; in others the gangue 
rock is calcspar, (a carbonate of lime.) Some of the ores contain as high as 50 
per cent, of copper. This district lies in the extreme southeast corner of Nevada, 
where it joins Utah and Arizona, in 37° 37' north latitude and 112° longitude 
west from Greenwich. The mineral wealth of the district is contained in a range 
of mountains about six miles long and four miles wide, running nearly north and 
south, the general name for which is Mount Irish, though each peak has a sepa- 
rate name. Some of the crests of the range tower to the height of 1 ] ,000 feet, 
and aie covered with perpetual snow. The lodes present the characteristics of 
true fissure veins, and appear to consist of several series, crossing each other in 
some places at right angles, the whole being contained in a metamorphosed lime- 
stone formation. In any other locality they would be valuable for copper mining, 

* Described more fully in the section on Mevada. 



216 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Similar ores are obtained in tlie mines of Inyo and Mono counties, California. 
These, however, contain a per cent, of gold. These ores are refractory when 
worked by the ordinary'' mill processes. Some of this class of ore taken from 
the Caraanche mine, in Mono county, and sent to Swansea for reduction, returned 
$1,000 per ton in gold, silver, and copper. The mines in Kearsarge, Fish Springs, 
Aurora, and other districts among the higher divisions of the Sierra Nevada pro- 
duce similar ores. The completion of the Central Pacific railroad will be of 
great benefit to the miners of this extensive mineral region, particularly if a 
process shall be discovered by which the gold and silver can be extracted with- 
out wasting the copper they contain — a contingency quite possible. If such an 
establishment for smelting as the interests of the coast demand were erected at 
some point convenient to water and railroad carriage, the refractory ores of the 
Sierras would become valuable. 

The Peavine Mines. — In November, 1866, several tons of ores from this 
district were brought to Sacramento by the Central Pacific railroad, which passes 
within three miles of it, being the first shipment from the Sierras by railroad. 
The total cost for freight by railroad and steamboat was $12 per ton. 

Two of Haskell's water-lined furnaces have since been erected in the district, 
one to operate for silver, the other for copper, but neither has yet been completed. 
The ores are chiefly carbonates and silicates, and the furnaces will probably be 
able to reduce them to a portable form for transportation. As they contain a 
per centum of gold and silver it may be found profitable to ship them to Europe 
for separation, till suitable works shall be erected here. 

An excellent map of this district has been published by A. J. Hatch, dejiuty 
United States surveyor, which will be found useful for reference. 

The Mines in Arizona. — The copper inincs on Williams fork of the Colo- 
rado have been partially worked this year. The developments have been satis- 
fectory so far as the extent of the lodes and the grade of the ores are concerned, 
but the difficulties attending smelting operations for want of furnace materials 
and fuel, the scarcity of means for transport, the high cost of freights from the 
mines to market, and the low prices paid for ores have caused a cessation of work 
or confined operations to a limited scale. In March there were 100 men employed 
at the Central and Planet mines, and about 150 about the works at Aubrey City, 
nearly all of whom have since been discharged. 

. The receipts of ores from these mines since January 1, 1867, have amounted 
to 1,156 tons, 600 of which were from the Planet mine. The whole quantity 
ranged between 20 and 60 per cent, of metal. 

The ores in this district would be valuable if suitable smelting works were 
erected anywhere on this coast, as they are chiefly carbonates, silicates, and 
oxides. 

The Great Central Mine contains 3,600 feet on two parallel lodes, and 
several hundred feet on other lodes adjacent. The ore is abundant and of good 
grade, and contains some gold and silver. In May last, the company had about 
200 tons, averaging 25 per cent., and 50 tons of selected, averaging 60 per cent., 
lying on the river bank awaiting transportation. One of the smaller lodes, the 
" Marion," at the depth of 75 feet from the surface, is five feet wide, composed 
of oxides of iron and copper. At the depth of 125 feet from the surftice the 
main lode exhibits symptoms of sulphur. This, while affording evidence of the 
permanence of the lode, is not favoraT)le to smelting operations. For 200 feet 
on each side of the shaft on the main lode (which is the extent of its explora- 
tion) it is found to be from five to seven feet wide. 

In April last the company completed a furnace capable of reducing 16 tons of ore 
in 24 hours, and made about 50 tons of coarse copper, ranging from 60 to 70 per 
cent., which has been sent to New York. But operations ceased in June. 
The Planet Mine, though located near the Great Central, contains several 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 217 

lodes and deposits of ore separate from those worked by tliat company, and yields 
ores of a difierent character. In one of the drifts a body of red, ferruginous, cal- 
careous cement was found, about 18 inches thick, but otlierwise of unknown 
extent, which contains a per cent, of metallic copper in the form of fine spangles 
and flakes, beautifully crystallized, imparting a peculiar brilliancy to each frac- 
ture as the lights of the miners are reflected upon the grains. It differs entirely 
from other coi)per ores found on the coast. There are no traces of sulphur. 

At the depth of 80 feet, in the main shaft, the lode is composed of a coarse 
Malachite, or carbonate of copper, nearly eight feet wide, quite compact, and 
pencilled with dark shadings like green marble. Along the foot wall there are 
masses of chrysocolla, or silicate of copper — much of it possessing great beauty — 
appearing like bright green jasper, elegantly marbled with darker green and blue 
l^encillings. Some of these masses, which are susceptible of a high and perma- 
nent polish, would be valuable for ornamental purposes. 

It is estimated that 8100,000 Avorth of ores have been sold from this mine 
since 1862. 

Mineral Hill Min^e. — This and the Empire Flat mine are owned by Green- 
man & Martin, of San Francisco, a firm long engaged in the purchase of copper 
ores on this coast. They have erected two furnaces and other works, Avith a 30 
horse-power steam engine to run the necessary machinery, at Aubrey City, a town 
which has sprung up on the banks of the river since the opening of the mines, 
having expended nearly $100,000 in opening the mines, building a Avharf, making 
roads, &c. 

The Springfield Company own the Punta del Cobre mine, and several lodes 
near the Great Central Company's mine, and there are other mines of probable 
value in the district. 

It is to be regretted that these mines, after having been brought to their present 
stage of development at so great an expense, have been compelled to cease ope- 
rations. Only a few hands are now employed to keep the property in order. 
The furnaces are idle. 

The following details of the expenses of transportation from the Aubrej^ mines 
may be useful in showing that some of the causes which prevent their develop- 
ment may be removed. 

The expenses in bringing ores frqm the mines to San Francisco sum up about 
$25 per ton; this, coupled Avith 815 per ton freight to Liverpool or Ncav York, 
makes 840 per ton, Avithout calculating insm-ance, commission, interest on capital, 
or costs for mining, Avhich sAA-ell the actual cost of the ore to 870 per ton, nearly 
equal to the present market A'-alue of 25 per cent. ore. No further explanation 
is necessary to show Avhy it is unprofitable to ship even rich ores from this dis- 
trict. 

The difiiculties in the way of smelting are as discom'aging as those attending 
the exportation of the ores. No suitable materials so far as knoAvn can be had 
in the Territory of which to construct the furnaces. All material has to be 
brought from California at a great expense ; steatite from El Dorado county and 
sandstone from Catalina island, &c. Owing to the depredations of the Indians 
the Avood-cutters Avere unable to go out of sight of the settlement to obtain wood 
for charcoal, the supply of AA'hich was consequently deficient, the quality bad, 
and the expense enormous ; charcoal made of iron Avood, musquete, and cotton- 
wood costs 850 per ton. The total product of copper made under these chcum- 
stances did not exceed 40 tons. 

Under more faA^orable conditions the mines might be made profitable. There 
are places along the river banks Avhere 100,000 tons of carbonates and oxides 
of coppei', averaging 18 per cent, of that metal, could be quarried like marble ; 
but such ores are valueless at present. 



218 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Tlie following table gives tlie exports of copper rcgulus and ores from San 
Francisco since 1862 : 

Exports of copper and ores since 1862. 





To New York. 


To Boston. 


To England. 


Total. 


Year. 


Ores. 


Copper 
regulus 


Ores. 


Copper 
regulus. 


Ores. 


Copper 
regulus. 


Ores. 


Copper 
regulus. 


1862 <. 


Tons. 

66 
1,337 

4, 905 16-20 
4, 146 3-20 
9, 962 8-20 
2,033 


Tons. 


Tons. 
3. 574 16-20 
4,208 15-16 
5,064 
9,050 
4, 536 13-20 


Tons. 


Tons. 


Tons. 


Tons. 

3,66016-20 

5, 553 10-20 

10, 234 3-20 

17, 787 19-20 

26, 883 16-20 

4,511 


Tons. 


1863 






7 15-20 
204 7-20 
2. 591 16-20 
12; 384 15-20 
1,878 






1864 










1865 


25 
422 

178 




"80'l0"-20 
14] 18-20 


25 


1866 


5U2 10-20 


1867 




319 18-20 










Total 


23 070 7-20 


625 


26, 434 4-20 




17, 126 13-20 


222 8-20 1 68. 631 4-20 


847 8-20 













The above table exhibits the decline in the exports during the present year. 
A considerable portion of that which has been shipped has not paid expenses, 
but was sent under contracts previously made. 

Copper-Smelting Works erected on the Pacific Coast. — The follow- 
ing list of copper-smelting w-orks erected on the Pacific coast, though not com- 
plete, shows the extent of the business and the amount of capital invested in its 
development : 

List of copper-smelting works erected on the Pacific coast. 



Where located. 



Antioch 

Oopperoijolis 

Waldo 

Genessee Valley. 
James's Ranch . . 

Bear Valley 

NearPlacerville. 
Hunter's Valley - 

Near Ashton 

Peavine HiU 



Williams Fork. 
Campo Seco ... 



Mine. 



Union 

Queen Bronze , 
Cosmopolitan . 



La Victorie. 



Buchanan , 

Lyon's 

Peavine . . . 



Several 

Campo Seco. 



County. 



Contra Costa. 

Calaveras 

Josephine 

Plumas 

Mariposa 

....do 

El Dorado 

Mariposa 

Colusa 

Storey 

'Josephine 



Calaveras 



State. 



California 
...do .... 

Oregon 

California 

,...do 

....do 

....do 

....do .... 

...do 

Nevada . . 
Oregon. .. 
Arizona . . 
California . 



Welsh . . . 
German . . 
....do .... 

Local 

Haskell's. 
....do.... 
....do .... 
....do .... 
....do .... 

....do 

German . . 
Welsh . . . 
....do .... 



Cost. 



$25, 000 
75, 000 
40, 000 
30, 000 
20, OOO 
20, 000 
10, 000 
20, 000 
6,000 
10, 000 
20, 000 

loa, coo 

30, 000 



406, 000 



* Completed June, 1867. 

Several concentrating and roasting works have also been erected near some 
of the copper mines at considerable expense. The concentrating works on the 
Keystone mine, at Copperopolis, cost $50,000, It is quite fair to calculate that 
8500,000 have been expended in the construction of smelting and concentrating 
works on this coast during the past four years, nearl}^ all of which has proved a 
loss for the reasons stated. 

Importation of Metallic Copper. — The increase in ship-building on this 
coast, and the facilities for repairing large vessels by the construction of docks, 
&c., at San Francisco, create a demand for sheatliing-metal and nails. The 
general use of copper plates in the quartz mills requires a large supply of this 
metal, as much of it is destroyed by the chemicals used in the processes for amal- 
gamating the precious metals. The increase in the manufacture of machinery, 
in the constmction of which brass forms a considerable item, and of articles 



WEST OP THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 219 

wholly composed of copper or brass, a brancli ef Lusiness which gives eiriploy- 
ment to several factories and foundries, requires a constantly increasing supply 
of this metal. 

The following statement, showing the imports of copper during 1S6G and for the 
first six months of 1867, embraces only the rough metal and sheets. All other 
tonus in which it is imported are included under the head of general merchan- 
dise. Though very incomplete, and confined to the imports received at San 
Francisco, tliis table shows that there is a field for the manufacture of copper on 
the Pacific coast wliich desers-es the consideration ©f capitalists. 

Imports of rapper at San Franciscn from January \, 1866, to July 1, 1867. 

Bars and packages : In 1866, 1,245; in 18C7, 242; total, 1,487. Cases of sheathing: la 
1866, 1,203; in 1867, .386; total, 1,589, The weight and value of the packages are not 
returned at the custom-house. 

The Manufacture or Sulphate of Copper in California. — The annual 
consumption of the sulphate of copper on the Pacific coast amounts to nearly 
500 tons. The present wholesale price is $200 per ton. About four-fifths of 
total quantity imported is used in the processes of amalgamation. The greater 
part of the other fifth, or about 100 tons, is used by fanners for soaking wheat, 
&c. ; sulphate of copper, or blue-stone, as it is generally called, bemg the best 
known preventive of rust in that grain. Till recently all the sulphate of cop- 
per used here was imported, chiefly from England. At present there is sufiicient 
made in San Francisco to supply the demand. Crane & Brigham, a firm in the 
drug business, have been engaged for several years in perfecting a plan for the 
manid'acture of this article from the sulphurets, which were too poor to pay for 
export or concentration. They expended nearly S50,000 in apparatus and exper- 
iments, and obtained a patent for a process which they discovered in 1864. But 
the costs of labor and strong o]iposition from importers made it an unprofitable 
investment. In the spring of 1867, a method was discovered by them of making 
tins article from the carbonates and oxides brought from the Williams fork of 
the Colorado, Arizona, by which it is prepared in the greatest purity at a cost 
below that for which it can be profitably imported. The San Francisco Refinery 
"Works, and other establishments in that business, of which there are several, 
also make quantities of the sulphate of copper as a by-product of their chemical 
operations. Under these circumstances it is not improbable that the impoi-tation 
of this article will soon cease. 

Iron. — The failure, till recently, to discover a deposit of coal on this coast 
suitable for smelting purposes, has prevented much attention being paid to the 
bodies of kon ores which are scattered throughout California and Oregon. But 
the discovery of good coal in Washington Territory, and in the late Russian pos- 
sessions on this coast, within the past year or two, has brought the subject of 
iron smelting into notice. The consumption of pig, bar, plate, and every other 
description of iron, already considerable, must increase with the progress of the 
States and Tcnitories on this side of the Rocky mountains, and the importance 
of this metal in manufactures and arts imparts to the subject an interest scarcely 
second to that attached to the production of the precious metals. 

With an abundance of material necessary for the manufacture of iron at their 
doors, as it were, it is scarcely probable the people of this coast will be much 
longer content to import so essential an element of prosperity from foreign 
countries. 

The first Iron-smelting Works on the Pacific. — Oregon is entitled to 
the credit of having erected the first iron-smelting works on the Pacific coast, 
though several of the heaviest .stockholders in the enteiiJrise are citizens of., 
California. 



220 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Tlic Oregon Iron "Works are located at Oswego^ about nine miles soutli of 
Portland, on the west bank of the Willamette river. They are the property of 
an incorporated company, having a capital of $500,000. The operations of this 
company were commenced in September, 1865. In 1866 the erection of the 
furnace and necessary buildings was commenced, and completed in June, 1867. 
But smelting was not immediately commenced, in consequence of an insufficient 
quantity of charcoal, the fuel intended to be used. The destruction of the com- 
panj-'s foundry and machine shop 1)}" fire on the night of July 2, Avhich involved 
a loss of nearly $100,000, further delayed operations. 

The funiaces were erected under the direction of Mr. G. D. Wilbur, of Con- 
necticut, and are constructed on the same plan as those in general use in that 
State. They are built of the basaltic rock which underlies the ore. This mate- 
rial is found to be adapted to the purpose. The cupola is 32 feet high, and the 
bosher or hearth nine feet six inches in diameter. The blast (hot) is aj>plied 
through three tuyeres, under a pressure of two pounds to the square inch, gene- 
rated by suitable machinery driven by water power. 

The charcoal used is prepared from the Oregon fir, which has been found by 
experiment to be adapted to smelting purposes, and is very compact, weighing 
about 16 pounds to the bushel. Contractors supply it to the company at eight 
cents per bushel, delivered at the works. It is calculated the furnace will reduce 
nine tons of ore daily, (24 hours,) each two and one-half tons of which being 
estimated to produce one ton of metal in pigs. 

The first pigs cast at these works, and consequently on the Pacific coast, were 
made on the 24th August, 1867, when about six tons of very good metal were 
run out. The ore used ranged from 60 to 65 per cent. The furnace has been 
running continuously since, producing from six to eight tons of metal per day. 
About 80 men are employed about the works as miners, furnace men, team- 
sters, &c. 

On the 1st day of October the Oregon Iron Company had produced 224 tons 
of pig iron, 2,240 pounds to the ton, at an expense as follows : 

For each ton (2,240 pounds) iron produced there were used — 

166 bushels charcoal, costing at furnace 8 cents $13 28 

884 pounds lime, costing at furnace 40 cents 3 53 

4,970 pounds ore, costing at furnace $2 50 per ton 5 50 

Labor reducing each ton 6 67 

Total cost of the pig on bank of river 28 98 

This does not include interest on capital, or State and county taxes. 

A sample of this metal was received at San Francisco August 30, 1867, 
which, after thorough tests by the various foundries in that city, Avas pronounced 
a superior article. 

The average cost of importing pig iron from Europe to San Francisco is about 
$40 per ton, ranging from $35 to $45 ; the fluctuation arising from the rates of 
freight, which is usually from $12 50 to $15 per ton. Occasionallj^ it is brought 
by French and German vessels at a lower price, as these vessels generally carry 
cargoes of light merchandise, which require heavy freight as ballast. The usual 
freight from Atlantic ports is from $12 to $16 per ton in currency. 

Within the past year small parcels of pig iron have been received from Aus- 
tralia. The Australian iron costs about $40 per ton in gold, delivered on the 
■wharf. 

The following particulars concerning the cost of producing iron, copied from 
the report of the United States Revenue Commissioners for 1865 and 1866, will 
be found of interest in this connection. It will be seen by these figures that 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 221 

while it is quite possible to make irou on tlie Pacific coast as cheaply as in any 
other portion of the United States, it cannot bo made as cheaply as in England : 

An establishment capable of producing in the United States 10,000 tons of finished 
iron per annum would cost for ore, leases, lands, blast furnaces, mills, houses, 
and appurtenances necessary for the full equipment, from the ore to the fin- 
ished irou, at the present time $1,250,000 

Capital to cdny it on 750,000 

Total 2,000,000 

A similar one in Great Britain Avould cost $500, 000 

Capital to carry it on 300,000 

Total 800,000 

Interest on $2,000,000 capital invested in American establishment at 8 per 

cent $1G0,000 

On 800, 000 in England at 5 per cent 40,000 

Leaving a balance of interest against American manufactures of 1'20, 000 

In the United States a fair average cost of producing pig iron is not less than $35 per ton. 
In England or Wales the cost of producing a ton of pig iron averages $14. To the difierence 
shown by the figures given, it is just to add the difference per ton caused by larger interest 
on the greater capital invested in the United Slates. ( Vide report, pages 327 and 328. J 

This question of interest on capital is felt more severely on the Pacific coast 
than in any other State in the Union, and forms an impediment to all manufac- 
tm'es. 

In the vicinity of the Oswego works are numerous beds of hydrous sesqui- 
oside, which, according to estimates based on careful measiarement, contain 50,000 
tons. This ore by analysis is found to contain from 46 to 56 per cent, metal. 
Nearly one-fourth of these beds consists of solid masses of ore, the remainder 
consisting of the same deposit very much disintegrated and broken, but equally 
rich in metal. 

At the distance of two and one-half miles from the works a similar body of 
ore has been found, vvhich measures 100 acres superficially, and of a thickness 
varying from six to 12 feet. This body of we is estimated to contain several 
millions of tons. Similar bodies of ore have been found at several places within 
an area of twenty miles of the works, extending as far as St. Helen's, on the 
Columbia river. In every case where these deposits of ore have been examined 
they are found to be underlaid by volcanic lava and ashes, beneath which are 
heavy beds of basaltic rocks. No vein or deposit of the ore has been found in 
this basalt, but in many places the crevices and fissm^es in that formation are 
filled with scales and fragments of the overlying ore. 

These bodies of ore present all the appearances of having been deposited in 
a liquid state, in indentations that existed at the time of the smface of the basalt. 
The whole formation has subsequently been tilted up so as to dip to the east at 
an angle of about 10 degrees. The present surface of the ore beds is covered 
with a deposit of sand, gravel, and clay, from a few inches to 10 feet in depth. 

Similar bodies of ore exist in the vicinity of Mount Vesuvius, Italy, which are 
known to have been ejected from that volcano in the form of chloride of iron 
and subsequently metamorphosed to its present form. 

Limouite is never found except in recent or secondary geological fonnations. 
It is the most valuable of all the ores of hon, being readily convertible into steel. 
The difference between limonite and hematite consists in the former containing 
from 15 to 20 per cent, of its weight of water, while the latter contains none. 
Limonite, owing to this difference, melts at a considerabl}" lower temperatm-e than 
hematite, a most important matter in a country where fuel is expensive. 



222 EESOU*RCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

An analysis of tliis Oregon limonite, made by Kellogg, Hueston & Co., of 
San Francisco, gave tlie following results : 

Sesqui-oxide of iron 77.66 

Moisture 11.16 

Silica 1.08 

Sulpliur and pliosphorus .10 



100.00 



Its specific gravity is 4.25. By actual working, on the large scale, it yielded 
54.37 per cent, of metal in pigs. 

The extraction of the ore involves Init little expense, as it is all near the sur- 
face. It is estimated that it- ,can be taken out and delivered at the furnace at 
$1 50 per ton. 

These Oregon iron works labor under a disadvantage in having no limestone 
in their vicinity. This mineral is as essential in smelting operations as fuel itself. 
All the limestone used has to bo brought from San Juan island, and costs $6 per 
ton delivered. As it requires one-third as much of this mineral as of the ore for 
smelting, this disadvantage is serious in point of expense. 

Iron in California. — Ever}' description of iron ores is known to exist in 
California in abundance. The most important bodies of them are found among 
the foot-hills of the Sien'a Nevada mountains, at too great a distance from the 
manufacturing centres to admit of smelting with profit, to compete with imported 
iron at places along the coast having the advantage of cheaper supplies from 
abroad. The heavy cost of inland transportation from these central marts is an 
advantage, however, in supplying a local demand, because transportation upwards 
to the mountains is always dearer than it is downwards to the plains. The cost 
of castings received in the mountains from San Francisco rarely falls below $200 
per ton; it is generally much higher. The consumption of cast iron among the 
quartz, lumber, grist, and other mills located among the foot hills reaches nearly 
2,000 tons annually, and the demand is limited by the difficulty in supplying it. 

The cost of erecting smelting works on a scale suflticiently large to supply the 
local demand need not exceed a few thousand dollars. The profits of such an 
establishment located among the mines, or on the line of a railroad connected with 
the mining districts, if properly conducted, would be remunerative. It is strange 
that, with such facts patent to capitalists, works of this kind have not been estab- 
lished at points where materials and facilities are known to exist for carrying 
them on to advantage. 

The following particulars concerning bodies of iron ores found in this State, 
which have been examined by competent persons, will be useful in showing the 
character, importance, and location of these deposits. For convenience they are 
divided under the heads of specular, hematite, magnetic, chromic, titanic, and 
mixed ores. 

Specular Iron Ore. — Deposits of this ore have been discovered a few miles 
north of the town of Santa Cruz, 75 miles from San Francisco, near the sea, in 
the Coast range. There is abundance of wood and limestone in the vicinity. 

Also on Utt's ranch, six miles from Auburn, Placer county, in the foot hills, 
45 miles from Sacramento. 

In the Coast range, in San Bernardino county, about 600 miles from Sacra- 
mento, is another deposit of this ore. 

Also at Four Hills, a locality about 10 miles northeast from Downieville, 
Sierra county, among the summits of the Sierra Nevada. The ore at this place 
is very pure and abundant, in a densely timbered country, with limestone close 
at hand. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 223 

Plumas count}', also, contains valuable bodies of this ore. On the side of a 
broad canon in the southern portion of this county, in sight of the high peaks ol 
the Sierra Nevada, about 16 miles from Downieville, Sierra county, within a 
couple of miles of the lino of the proposed Oroville railroad, there is an iron 
mountain composed in great part of this ore. It assays from 40 to 70 per cent, 
metal. Parties have pre-empted 320 acres of the land embracing the mountain 
for the purpose of working it as an iron mine. It is intended to erect smelting 
works on the ground during the present fall. Wood, water, and limestone are 
close at hand, and the Beckwith Pass wagon road runs within a mile of the claim. 

There are deposits at other places, but the above are among the most acces- 
sible. 

Specular iron ore is somewhat similar in composition to red hematite, but is 
readily distinguished from that ore by breaking with a bright metallic fracture, 
almost like cast iron, to which peculiarity it owes its name. Like hematite, it 
is of volcanic origin. The ores of Pilot Knob and Iron Mountain, Missouri, 
belong to this class. It requires a much greater heat to smelt specular iron ores 
than any others of that metal; this trait is important on this coast. The iron 
made from this ore is the best known, when properly made. 

Magnetic Ikon Ores. — The most important, because the most convenient, 
body of this ore in California exists on the line of the Central Pacific railroad, 
near Clipper Gap, where there is a mountain of considerable proportions com- 
posed almost wholly of the variety known in Germany as " spiegelien," from 
which steel is made with so much facility in that country by the Bessemer pro- 
cess. 

The advantages of having a plenty of wood, water, building materials, and 
fire-clay for furnace pm'poses, and limestone for flux, and a railroad ninning close 
by, have induced an attempt to erect smelting works in the vicinit}^ Robinson, 
Bi'owu & Co.'s iron mines are located here, about three miles from the rail- 
road and three miles from Bear river. These mines were located and patents for 
the land from the federal government applied for in May, 1866. The company 
purchased the title of the railroad to the even sections of the land, to the extent 
of about 1,500 acres. The greater portion of this land is well covered with 
timber suitable for charcoal. The ore crops out from the mountain in many 
places. There are two qualities in the deposit; on the east side it is highly 
magnetic, while on the west it is very much like the Oregon limouite. Assays 
made by Kellogg & Hueston, of San Francisco, in March, 1866, gave the fol- 
lowing results: the magnetic ore, 64.37 per cent, metal; the hematite, 44.67 
per cent, metal. A specimen sent to Professor Jackson, of Boston, Massachu- 
setts, was analyzed by that gentleman, who states in the report on the subject 
that it contains no phosphorus, sulphm', titanium, or other substance injmious 
to the manufactm'e of iron. 

A tunnel has been cut in the side of the mountain to test the thickness of the 
etratmn. At the time of our visit, in June, 1867, it had been run for 30 feet, 
with no signs of the end. On the opposite side, where there were no croppiugs 
near the surface, a shaft was sunk 15 feet; at that depth they struck good ore. 

Estimates as to the probable expenses of making pig iron at this locality and 
delivering it at San Francisco show that charcoal can be made and delivered at 
the furnace for 12| cents per bushel, (the Oregon works pay 8 cents;) the lime 
will cost $2 per ton ; the total cost for labor, materials, and interest on capital 
reaching $20 per ton, to which must be added $6 per ton for transport to San 
Francisco by railroad and steamer. The average cost of pig iron in that city 
during the past three years has been $41 50, landed on the wharf. Its price at 
present is from $47 to $50 per ton. The mines are 40 miles distant from Sacra- 
mento by railroad. 

Arrangements have been made with the fu-m of Coffee, Kisaou & Co. to erect 



224 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

one of Haskell's patent water-lined cupola furnaces, to test tlie Avorkiug qualities 
of tlie ore. Tliis furnace was to have been completed in August. 

■ The parties interested in the enterprise, being men of limited capital, are not 
prepared to conduct operations on a scale to insure success. It would be to the 
benefit of the State if capitalists would take hold of the business. 

Bodies of ore of a similar character exist near Gold lake. Sierra county, in 
the vicinity of the line of the Central Pacific railroad. 

A deposit of fine magnetic iron ore was discovered in the summer of 1867 on 
Grouse ridge, 14 miles from Washington, Nevada county. Tliis ore is energeti- 
cally magnetic — so mucli so as to lift linives or nails — and is said to contain suffi- 
cient gold to pay for extracting that metal from it. 

In tlie summer of 1867 a body of magnetic iron was discovered near Chap- 
paral Hill, Butte county, near the Grizzly, a tributar}^ of the Butte creek, about 
46 miles from Oroville, on the Susanville road. The ore is found in a locality 
where the slate and granite formations unite. Some portions of it are so mag- 
netic that fragments broken off can be lifted by the larger pieces. It was this 
peculiarity that led to its discovery. An analysis made by Kellogg, Ilueston 
& Co., of San Francisco, yielded 65 per cent, of metal. The deposit is in the 
form of a stratum or l)ed of unknown thickness and extent. In July a shaft 
had been cut to the depth of 20 feet without passing through it. It had been 
traced 300 feet in length by nearly a quarter of a mile in width. Being located 
on a densely timbered hill, covered with broken slate, it was not convenient to 
trace it to its full extent. There is abundance of wood, water, and limestone in 
the vicinity. 

Bodies of similar ores are found in the Santa Inez valley, in the San Rafael 
district, Santa Barbara county, about 450 miles from Sacramento. 

Magnetic iron ore or magnetite is one of the most extensively distributed and 
Valuable of that metal found on this coast. It contains a larger per centum of 
metal than any of the other ores; when pure it generally contains from 60 to 
70 per cent. It is changed in many places into specular ore by the addition of 
oxygen, which it absorbs from the atmosphere. 

Hematite Ores of Ieox. — There are large bodies of simonite, identical in 
composition with the ores found at Oswego, Oregon, on the banks of Spring 
creek, a few miles west of Shasta City — at an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet 
above the sea — among the granite peaks of the Sierra Nevada, about 180 miles 
from Sacramento. 

A deposit of red hematite was discovered in March last on the ranch belong- 
ing to the Sisters of Charity, about 16 miles from the city of Los Angeles. The 
ore presents itself on the surface for nearly a mile in a stratum averaging 15 
feet thick, enclosed in hard metamorphosed clay slate. 

Cheomic Ieoi^ Okes. — This class of ores, so rare and valuable in the Atlantic 
States, is abundant on this coast, being found in the Coast range, the foot bills, 
and among the Sierra Nevadas, wherever there is serpentine in the country. 
Among the most important deposits of it are the scattered and broken masses 
which cover the ground for miles in the vicinity of the New Idria Quicksilvei 
mine, in Santa Clara county. There is another body of it cresting the ridge 
which forms the boundary line between Monterey and Fresno counties. In 
Tuolumne county, near the Crimea House, are deposits which are found between 
the strata of talcose slate, lying in a vertical position, the weathered portions 
of which stand out from the surrounding hills like tombstones in a grave- 
yard. 

In Del Norte county to the north of the copper mines on the '' Low Divide," there 
is a peculiar deposit of chromic iron disseminated through the serpentine, which 
constitutes the greater portion of the country thereabouts. This ore weathers 
into round grains like shot, from the size of a pin-head to a four-pounder, and is 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 225 

appropriately Ccalled iron-sliot by the miners in the vicmity, wlio find abundance 
of it in the sluices when washing up. 

There is another body of chromic iron in Del Norte county, of different appear- 
ance, on Smith's river, about 20 miles from Crescent City. This ore is compact, 
and as blade as jet. 

In San Bernardino county there are extensive deposits of this ore along the 
coast, some of which contain fine specimens of vauquelinite chromate of lead and 
copper. 

On the south side of San Diego gulch, Calaveras count}^, on the crest of the 
highest hill, opposite the Noble Copper mine, there is an isolated mass of this ore 
that will weigh thousands of tons, which surmounts a rather singular formation. 
A tunnel run in the hill beneath, in search of copper, cut through several wide 
strata of serpentine, brucite, talc, and other magnesian minerals. Chromic iron, 
or chromate of iron, is of considerable importance in the arts, but not as a source 
for obtaining the metal. Though abundant on this coast, it is very rare in the 
Atlantic States and Europe. EngLand contains scarcely any; that country 
imports about 5,000 tons annually, for the purpose of manufacturing the various 
compounds of chromium, used in calico printing, painting porcelain, making 
pigments, chromic acid, &c. A large quantity Avas formerly shipped to England 
from the Barehills, near Baltimore, Maryland, where the most valuable deposit 
on the Atlantic side exsits. With cheap transportation and labor this ore would 
pay to export. 

Titanic Iron Oee is generally found on this coast in the form of fine grains, 
forming the greater portion of the '' black sand," so difficult to separate from the 
fine gold obtained from the alluvial washings. All volcanic rocks contain titanic 
iron in the form of grains. As these rocks disintegrate the grains are set free. 
There are several varieties of titaniferous iron in the grains, most of which are mag- 
netic. It has been found in a number of thin seams in trap, in El Dorado 
county, near Diamond Springs. 

Some excitement was created in San Francisco, about a year since, by the 
discovery of titanic kon in the sand on the beach within the harbor. Small 
quantities of it were collected, and some of it smelted, under the impression that 
it would make pig-iron, and that there was a ^'lead" of it in the vicinity. The 
above explanation of its source shows how unreasonable such conclusions were. 

Mixed Ores of Ikon. — There is a body of iron ore on Pratt's Hill, near lone, 
Amador county, on the border of the Sacramento valley, which does not belong 
to any of the varieties above described. It is of an earthy nature, and evidently 
of sedimentary origin, forming a stratum nearly 20 feet thick, extending for a 
mile near the top of a lode bluff, which projects into the valley. It contains a 
large per centum of iron. In several localities along the margin of the San 
Joaquin and Sacramento valleys there are deposits of iron ores in the form of 
ochres. It is not necessary to give details, as there are such abundant sources for 
obtaining better ores; they will be described under the head of '^ clays," &c. 

Iron Ores in Nevada. — The surveyors employed by the Central Pacific 
Railroad Company report the discovery of extensive beds of magnetic iron ore 
within a short distance of the line of that road, near Crystal Springs. Also at 
Neilsburg, within a mile of the road, and at Long Valley. There arc many other 
districts in Nevada which contain iron ore. There is a series of regular veins of 
specular ore, from 8 to 20 feet thick, liear the east fork of Walkei-'s river, in 
Esmeralda county. 

Iron Ores in Utah. — This Territory abounds in iron ores. There are several 
deposits of carbonate of iron Avithin 20 miles of Salt Lake City. 

Iron Ores in Arizona. — The abundance of nearly all kinds of iron ores in 
this Territory is quite remarkable. Whole ranges of mountains along the Colorado 
are in great part composed of them. The copper mines at Williams fork are 
15 



226 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

suiTounclcd witli Leds of iron ores. In the Mineral Hill and Planet mines tlie 
ores are pure oxides of iron and copper. Several of the tniniels ran in working 
these mines have been cut through solid beds of iron ore. Tlie wall rock encloang 
nearly all the copper lodes are of the same mineral. 

Concluding Remarks ox Ores. — The above examples, selected from a great 
number of a similar character, are sufficient to show the abundance of the ores of 
iron on the Pacific coast, particuLarly in California, and the advantage that State 
possesses in having fu)'nace materials and limestone convenient to the mines. 

It will be observed by reference to the analyses that the '' lay," or per centum 
of metal in the ores found on this coast, ranges from 4G to SO, or an average of 
upwards of 50. This, however, is applicable onl\' to the higher grades. Accord- 
ing to the government returns, published in England, the ores obtained from the 
mines in Wales do not exceed 33 per cent., and those from the mines in Stafford- 
shire, the great iron district of England, do not exceed 30 per cent. Most of 
the ores found in that country require roasting as a preliminary process, owing to 
their containing deleterious elements. The ores on this coast, being nearly all 
oxide, can be smelted at one operation, and will produce a very pure metal. 

The Consumption of Iron in California. — The consumption of iron in 
this State is large, and constantly increasing. The imports of crude metal, given 
in the accompanying table, constitute but a portion of the total quantity used, as 
much of it is obtained by remelting worn-out .or useless machinery, and other 
articles, of which there are many thousands of tons in the State. 

San Francisco is the centre of this trade. In addition to supplying California, 
as the following table will show, iron and machinery are exported to Nevada, 
and the adjoining Tenitories, the Sandwich Islands, Mexico, British Columbia, 
and other countries. 

The following list of foundries and machine shops in San Francisco will convey 
an idea of the proportions of this business there. There are also 23 other foundries 
in California, and six in Nevada. The establishments at Sacramento, Nevada 
City, Marysville, Stockton, Sonora, and one or two others, are able to make almost 
any description of machinery. 

iROir Foundries in San Francisco. — The Fw?caw covers the block embraced 
by 137 feet on Fremont street, and running 275 feettoBeal street, and extending 
thence to Mission street. On this block there are brick and frame buildings, 
suitable for an extensive business. Every description of machinery, from a coffee- 
roaster to a locomotive, including boilers, and everything complete, is made 
here. Many improvements in the manufacture of engines and boilers have been 
introduced in this establishment. ]\Iost of the machinery used at the Mission 
woollen mills was made here, as was also the machinery for the mints at Mexico 
and British Columbia. The most powerful engines in use on the Comstock 
lode, Nevada, were also made here. A few months since a quartz mill was made 
here and shipped to Nicaragua, and a pumping engine for use on a mine at 
Parquiqua, Bolivia. The capacity of the furnaces at this foundry is sufficient to 
melt 35 tons of metal. Nearl}' 100 men are employed on the premises. 

The Fulton is located on First street, and employs about 50 moulders, doing 
an extensive business in architectural casting; machinery of all kinds is also made. 

The Etna is a similar establishment to the Vulcan, but on a somewhat smaller 
scale. It has facilities for melting six tons of metal. It is located on Fremont 
street. 

The FranJdin is also located on Fremont street. The engine used for print- 
ing the Evening Bulletin was made at this establishment. It has conveniences 
for melting 10 tons of metal, and employs 25 men. 

The Golden State is located on First street, and is of about the same capacity 
as the Franklin. 

The Pacific is an establishment reaching from First to Fremont street. It was 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 227 

commenced in 1850. The buildings, chiefly constructed of hrich, cover two 50- 
varalots. The machinery for the new rolling mills was made here, the fly-wheel 
for which weighs 25 tons. It can melt 20 tons, and employs about 75 men. 

The Miners' is also on First street, and extends through to Fremont. It 
employs about 250 men, and can turn out a 20-stamp mill, boiler and all com- 
plete, in 30 days. The iron castings for the State capitol, at Sacramento, were 
made here. 

The San Francisco is located at the corner of Fremont and ]\Iission streets, 
where it covers a fifty-vara lot. All descriptions of machinery are made here. 
It can melt 15 tons of metal, and emplo3^s about 40 men. 

The City Iron Worhs are located on Fremont street. Employ about 20 
hands. Considerable machinery for the Sandwich Island sugar-mills has been 
made here. 

The California Foundry is also on Fremont street. This establishment does 
an extensive business in architectural castings, which it makes a specialty. The 
fronts of several of the most elegant buildings in the city were cast here. It has 
facilities for melting six tons of metal, and employs about 20 hands. 

The Union Foundry^ corner First and Mission streets, is. the oldest and largest 
establishment of the kind on this coast. It was commenced in 1849. The 
buildings include a three-story brick, having a frontage of 187 feet on First street, 
extending 275 feet, and fi-onting 120 feet on JMission, the whole covering nearly 
50,000 feet; 300 men are employed here. The machinery for the United States 
steamer Saginaw was made at this foundry. The first locomotive made on this 
coast was cast and finished here. 

The Atlas Iron Works are located on Fremont street. They are chiefly 
engaged in casting for agricultm'al purposes. Can melt seven tons of metal, and 
employs about 30 men. 

The JacJcson Foundry is located on Jackson street. Its operations are con- 
fined to casting stoves, ornamental railing, and other light and fancy goods. 
The ranges used in nearly all the fh'st-class hotels in the city were made here. 
It gives employment to about 30 men. 

The Empire Foundry is on Mission street, near Beale. All descriptions of 
machinery and castings are ma;de here. It employs 30 men. 

It is within limits to estimate the consumption of iron in California and the States 
and Territories dependent on it for supplies, at 30,000 tons annually. The busi- 
ness gives employment to nearly 3,000 men. There are 30 machine-shops in 
San Francisco, in addition to those connected with the above-named foundries. 

The largest iron vessel ever cast in the United States was made at the Union 
Foundry in 1861. It was a shallow pan, capable of holding 1,316 gallons, and 
weighed 8,114 pounds. It was for use in one of the local soap factories. 

A rolling-mill and steam forging establishment has recently been completed 
at San Francisco, with machinery and apparatus for making every description 
of bar and rod iron, from one-fom'th of an inch diameter, and one-eighth of an 
inch thick, to 12 inches wide, of any shape required by manufacturers, including 
all sizes and jDatterns of railroad iron. This establishment furnishes a market 
for all the scrap iron that can be obtained. It is proposed to erect puddling 
furnaces for converting cast into malleable iron, as the supply of materials is not 
equal to the demand. 

The above facts are sufficient to show that there exist on the Pacific coast a 
fair demand for ii'on and some facilities for its manufactme. 



228 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Imports of iron (cliicfly railroad) into San Francisco during 1806, and first six 

months of 1867. 



Description. 



Pig iron, tons ...o .. 
Bars 

Bars, bundles 

Pipes 

Pipes, bundles 

Hoops, &c., bundles 

Hoops, cases 

Sheets, bundles 

Sheets, cases 

Plates 



1866. 



1867. 



9, 388 


2,063 


157, ?58 


100,378 


40, 088 


30,229 


18,278 


14, 429 


14, 584 


7,451 


31,985 


19,607 


395 


394 


21,604 


4,048 


331 


121 


7,622 


10, 134 



Exports of iron and macliinery from San Francisco during 1860, and first six 

months of 1S67 . 



Articles. 


d 
c 

o 
H 


03 C3 

H 


6 
. 

■■B-S 
•E a 

KM 



H 


a 




s 




05 
.2 




1866. 


1867. 


1866. 


1867. 


1866. 


1867. 


1866. 


1867. 


Iron, bars . .. . . 


1,577 
648 


500 
229 


2,012 

432 

10 

14 

383 

23 

5 


"is 


300 
37 


77 
167 


89 
16 


138 


Iron, bundles ,. 


IS 








33 
177 

254 

120 


"'27' 
121 
























Hoops, cases . ... 




8 








Pipes, bundles .. 




2 
30 




Pipes, pieces . . 




12 


98 




Castings, pieces . . 


36 

40 

2,482 
889 
396 


107 






Plates 




14 

47 


"iss" 


56 

54 

207 

19 






2, 34-2 

1,108 














7 





























Coal. — The importauce of coal as an element of national and local prosperity 
is so generally recognized, that it is unnecessary to make any remarks toucliing 
the advantages of an abundant suppl}^ But the relative value of the several 
varieties of coal for domestic and manufacturing purposes not being so generally 
understood, may render some explanations on this point appropriate; 

The varieties of coal to which England owes its prosperity, and which arc so 
abundant in Pennsylvania and other Atlantic States, do not exist, or at all events 
have not been foimd, on the Pacific coast. But there are extensive beds of other 
varieties, which differ as much in their composition and heating qualities as the 
coals of other countries differ from eacli other. In the northern parts of the coast 
the coal is as superior to that found at ]\Iount Diablo and further south as the 
Welch coal is to the Scotch, or the Pennsylvania anthracite to that found in 
Ireland. 

l^Iodern geologists have abandoned the idea that coal, to be of good quality, 
must be found in one particular fonnation. Experience, the most reliable guide, 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



229 



contrarlicts sucli a theory. Researches in India, China, Australia, New Zealand, 
Chili, and on this coast, prove that good coal, adapted to nearly all purposes, is 
found outside of the carboniferous formation. Science has failed to demonstrate 
that good coal' may not bo found in any geological fonnation. There are many 
reasons for believing that when the mines on this coast shall be worked to a 
depth approaching that of the mines in other countries, the quality of the coal 
will be found to bear a favorable comparison. Analyses made by Professor 
Blake and other scientific gentlemen, of coal taken at a greater depth than the 
samples tested by Professor Whitney, in 1861 and 1862, shortly after the Cali- 
fornia mines were opened, exhibit a marked improvement. 

The following reports exhibit the change in composition of the Mount Diablo 
coal as the depth of the mines increases : 

Analysis of sample of coal from Pittsburg mine, taJicn from tJticJi seam, 600 feet 
from surface, in 1867, ly Professor W. P. BlaJce. 

Moisture 3.28 

Bituminous matter 47.05 

Fixed carbon 44.90 

Ashes 4.71 

99. 94 



There was no trace of sulphur in the sample. 

Analysis of coal falcen 800 feet heloio surface on the incline in Black Diamond 
mine, in May, 1867, hy Professor Price, siq)cr intending chemist to Golden City 
Chemical Works, and to San Francisco Befining Works, d:c., dx. 

Moisture 9,54 

Ashes 8.25 

Sulphur 3.25 

Oxygen and nitrogen 20.50 

Hydrogen 3.75 

Carbon 54.71 

100. 00 



Analysis of Mount Diablo coal, taken from near surface, in 1861 and 1862, by 
Professor Wliitney, State geologist of California. 







"^ 


^3 




^ 






a 
o 


a 

c3 


© 


o 




a 

S 

CO 


i6 

5-2 




a 

o 


o . 




c3 


03 


s 




o 




o 


M 


o 


p^ 


O 


Water 


13.47 

40.36 

40.65 

5.52 


14.69 

33.89 

46.84 

4.58 


13.84 

40.27 

44.92 

0.97 


14.13 

37.38 

44. 55 

3.94 


20.53 


Bituminous matter 


35.62 


Fixed carbon 


36.35 


Ash 


7.50 







It Avill be seen by comparing these reports that the proportion of moisture in 
this coal is much less in the recently examined sample. Tliis change in com- 
position increases the power of the coal for generating steam and other purposes 
at least 25 per cent. It was the excess of moisture in the coal taken from near 
the surface . that caused it to crumble on exposure to the an", or when thrown into 



230 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



the fire. These defects decreasing ^vith increased depth of the mines, the value 
of the coal increases in proportion.* 

There is a very material diiFerence, however, in the quality of the coal taken 
from each of the seams in the Mount Diablo mines, as -well as between this coal 
and that obtained from other mines on the coast, leading- to the inference that 
each is separate in origin. 

The Clark or upper seam at Mount Diablo is enclosed in soft sandstone above 
and below, with scarcely any shale or slate. The Bleach Diamond, or lower 
seam, is overlaid by three or four feet of slate and shale, and underlaid by two 
seams of tough clay, separated by slate highly charged with sulphur, while the 
coal is comparatively free from that element. The middle seam is divided by 
slate and contains a large per cent, of sulphur. 

The following are the prominent traits of the coal found on this coast : The 
Mount Diablo, California, is an inferior quality of coal, but answers tolerably 
well, where bulk is no great object, for generating steam. Being cheap it is 
used to a considerable extent for domestic purposes. 

The Nanaimo, Vancouver's Island, is excellent for generating gas. It is also 
extensively used for steam and domestic purposes. It burns with less smoke 
than Mount Diablo coal, but leaves more ashes. 

The Bellingham Bay coal is considered the best on this coast for domestic 
purposes, as it is tolerably free from odor, and burns with a bright cheerful flame 
and very little smoke. It may be compared with the lower grades of English 
coal. The mine is in Washington Tenitory. 

* In this connection it may not be uninteresting to give results of an analysis made by 
Messrs. Falkenan & Hanks, San Franci&co Chemical Works, of some Saghalien coal from 
East Siberia, with a comparative table of the results obtained from different kinds of coal, as 
to their constituents, and the effect obtained in their use : 







. 


to 










&, 






a 

















a 


cS 


'"' 


"§ ^ 




fcc 






^ 










a 






T^ s-i 






.s 


2 =* 


a 






















>> 


g P< 


a 


i2 


go 





u>- 


Desiguatiou. 


1 


-as 




"S g 


03 '"' 

t> a 


a 


.2 § 




ta 

o 

■3 




03 


S 


is 

II 




05 M 
e8 











c« 





c3 


<D 




w 


> 


f^ 


H 





M 


« 


Lehigh, (Pa.) 


].590 
1.337 


5.28 
12. 67 


89.15 
74.53 


5.56 
11.34 


8.35 

8.82 


702 

877 


153 


Cumberland, (Neff's) 


298 


Cumberland, (A. &,T.)... 


1.333 


15.53 


76.69 


7.33 


10.00 


828 


505 




1.338 
1.257 

1.288 


23.81 
35.83 
35.70 


67. 57 
57. 00 
56.45 


5.49 
5.40 
6.05 


7.47 
8.09 


764 

827 


424 




595 















We have also examined the sample of coal forwarded by you, with a view of determining 
its commercial value, and have arrived at the following results :^ 

Specific gravity.... '. 1.2887.9 

Volatile combustible matter 35.70 

Moisture .,- 1.8 

Fixed carbon 56. 45 

Earthy matter - 6, 05 

Amount of gas evolved by 10 pounds avoirdupois of coal, 32 cubic feet. 

The amount of sulphur contained in the sample was so minute as not to warrant a quan- 
titative determination. In regard to its constituents, the coal examined seems almost identi- 
cal with that of Newcastle, England. 

On igniting the coal, cakes forming a light solid coke, yielding fine reddish gray ashes, 
which did not show the least tendency to form slag, but passed freely through the grate, 
were produced. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 231 

The Coos Bay, Oregon, is a fair coal for nialiy purposes. When first taken 
from the mine it appears as compact and solid as "caunel," but as it contains a 
large per centum of moisture it soon loses this appearance, and crumbles when 
exposed to the air. It leaves but little ashes, 

The Fuca Straits, Washington Territory, coal is moderately well adapted to 
steam or manufacturing purposes, burning with a bright, clear flame and but 
little smoke, leaving but a small quantity of dark sandy ashes. This coal 
''cakes" a good deal, which is its chief defect. 

The coal found farther north not being muck used in California, its traits are 
not well understood, 

It is found by experience that the coal of this coast is less destructive to boilers 
and grates than the anthi'acite imported from Pennsylvania or the bituminous 
coals of Australia. 

The article on the geology of the coal fonnations of the Pacific coast, furnished 
by Mr. W. M. Gabb, of the California State Geological Survey, and published 
in the previous report, gives much general information on this branch of the 
subject, and may be referred to for geological details respecting the formations 
in which coal is found on the Pacific coast. 

New Discovekies i:n" Califorxia. — A company has been organized within 
the past few months for the pm'pose of working a seam of coal recently discov- 
ered near the mouth of Bear creek, a tributary of the San Lorenzo, a few miles 
above Santa Cruz. The seam is stated to be nearly five feet thick, and the 
quality good for surface coal. 

It may be well here to state that coal is much influenced by the atmosphere. 
Experiments made by the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Company of Eng- 
land, prove that coal obtained from the best mines in that country loses 20 per 
cent, of its beating power when exposed to the atmosphere for a few months in 
hot climates. The steamers belonging to this company, when in the tropics, 
consume one-fourth more fuel than when in the temperate climate of Europe. As 
the temperature of the atmosphere on this coast ranges as high on land during 
the summer months as in the tropics, it would be unreasonable to expect the 
coal found near tlie smface to be as good as it will be at a deptk out of reack 
of atmospheric influences. 

A seam of coal is being worked on the soutli fork of Clear creek, Shasta 
county, a few miles west of Piety Hill, and about 30 miles from the silver mines. 
It was discovered in 1863, but was not worked till the discovery of the mines 
in 1865 afforded a market for the coal, which is used to generate steam for the 
engines since erected. A shaft has been sunk on this seam about 60 feet deep, 
at the bottom of which the coal is found, about four feet thick, and of fail' quality. 

In this part of Shasta county there exists a belt of shales nearly a mile Avide, 
tilted to an angle of about 25 degrees, which contains thin seams of coal. These 
might be made to yield a supply of fuel for local use. 

Mr. John S. Royal, in January, 1867, discovered an outcrop of coal in Corral 
Hollow, San Joaquin county, about 30 miles south of Mount Diablo, in a ravine 
from which the previous rains had washed the soil to the depth of 25 feet. The 
seam, where exposed, is about eight feet thick. It is generally believed that 
the beds of coal worked at Mount Diablo pass through this locality. The cost 
of transportation and labor has heretofore prevented the working of coal with 
profit in this vicinity. The projected railroad from San Jose to Stockton passing 
within four miles, and the San Joaquin river being accessible by a wagon road, 
it is probable the new discovery may at some futm'e time prove valuable. 

Nearly 1,000 tons of coal were taken from mines in this vicinity in 1863 — 200 
tons of which came from the Commercial, and 800 tons fi'om the O'Brien. The 
quality was good and well adapted for generating gas. 

In 1866 a company was organized for the pmiiose of distilling oil from this 
coal, of which it is said to contain 65 gallons to the ton. The quantity of water 



232 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

that entered the shaft, and the want of proper pumping machinery, caused a sus- 
pension of operations. It is possible that with proper machinery the coal 
deposits of Corral Hollow might be profitably worked. 

Clark, Bruce & Company have recently discovered three seams of coal on the 
west side of Butte mountains, on the Colusa road. The position and other con- 
ditions lead to the supposition that these seams may be continuations of those 
worked at IMount Diablo. Samples of the coal tested at Marysville gave satis- 
factory results. The work of prospecting is being carried on. 

Deposits of coal have been^ discovered in San Liiis Obispo county, in the 
Salinas valley, about 70 miles from Monterey. The coal crops out in a small 
oval valley about a mile in length, at the head of the Salinas. There are six 
or seven distinct seams in this outcrop within the distance of 300 feet. The for- 
mation has been considerably dislocated and the strata tilted up, but the outcroj) 
may l)e traced for 20 miles. The third seam from the top is nearly seven feet 
thick, and has been examined to some extent. The coal is a lignite. The lowest 
seam in the series is about five feet tliick and has also been examined by means 
of a short tunnel. The other seams vary from 10 inches to four feet in thickness. 

The Mount Diablo Coal Mines are located on both sides of a high ridge 
which projects from the north side of Mount Diablo. They are favorably situ- 
ated for access to navigable water, being in Contra Costa county, about five 
miles south from the San Joaquin river, at a point Avhere it is deep enough for 
vessels of 1,000 tons to approach the bank. 

The first mine in the district — the Teutonia — was located in 1858. Though 
coal was discovered there in 1852, none of the valuable mines were located 
till 1859. Several of the most productive have been located since 1860. It 
will be perceived by these dates that California coal mining is still in >ts 
infancy. 

The majority of the locations have been made on the outcrop of coal, which 'S 
traceable for several miles, trending easterly and westerly. The Peacock mine 
is cii the western edge ; the Pacheco and San Francisco are west of the Peacock 
but not on the outcrop. The disturbed condition of the seams has caused the 
abandonment of these three western mines. The Cumberland, or Black Diamond, 
one of the most valuable mines in the district, is located about three-quarters ot 
a mile to the north of the Peacock. Somersville, a small town created by the 
working of the mines, is situated about a mile to the east of the Black Diamond, 
from which it is separated by a high ridge, and is the centre of operations at 
present. This place contains about 200 buildings, including hotels, stores, a 
temperance hall, and a school-house, and has about 800 inhabitants. Within 
half a mile of it are the mouths of five different mines, from which coal is, or has 
been, extracted. On the northwest is the Union, a short distance from which 
is the Manhattan ; a few hundred j^ards further east, and somewhat lower down 
the side of the ridge, is the Eureka ; southeast of this, in a ravine at the base of 
the western side of the ridge, is the Pittsburg; about 1,000 yards to the north 
of this, and still lower down in the ravine, is the Independent. All these mines 
thus clustered together about the sides of a steep, rugged mountain present a 
singular appearance. The lofty chimneys of the steam engines belcliing forth 
columns of dense black smoke ; the dark, dingy dwellings of the miners and 
those who minister to their wants; the tall trellis-like viaducts across the ravines, 
over which the locomotives are constantly passing between the mines and the 
wharves ; the clanking of machinery, and busy hum of workmen and teamsters ; 
the great piles of black waste at the mouth of each mine, all tend to give a pecu- 
liar interest, if they do not impart much beauty, to the scene. The distant view 
of the suiTounding countr}', as seen from the ridge, embraces stretches of grassy 
meadows teeming with cattle and sheep; purple hills breaking in rugged outline 
against the sky, and glimpses of the San Joaquin meandering through its tule 
banks, dotted \vith the white sails of sloops and schooners, while here and there 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 233 

a neat cottage embosomed in orcliards and sufrounded by j^cllow gram fields, 
presents a scene of quiet beaut}-, suggestive of the progress of civilization. 

The Central mine, one of the first worked, but at present idle, is located near 
the base of the hill, three-quarters of a mile to the cast from Somersville, from 
which place it is separated by the hill. The Pacific, the most recently opened 
in the district, is located near Marsh's creek, seven miles east of Somersville. 

The above are all the mines at present in a state of development. The Mount 
Hope is on the Black Diamond Company's ground, of which that company 
resumed possession in August last, and is not described as a separate mine. 

ThG mines now producing coal are the Black Diamond, Union, Pittsburg, 
Independent and Eureka. The workings in these mines are extensive, some 
of the levels in one connecting with those m another, so that a person may travel 
a mile on the line of the seam. 

It is estimated that during the six years ending July, 18G7, 500,000 tons of 
coal have been taken from these mines. The quantity received at San Fran- 
cisco, as shown by the following table, amounted to 302,554 tons, Avhile the 
consumption on the ground, the waste in handling, &c., and the quantity sent 
to the interior by water and teams, will make up the difference : 

Annual receipts of Mount Diablo coal at San Francisco. 

Tons. 

1861 6,620 

1862 23,400 

1863 43,200 

1864 37,450 

l»f)5 59,559 

1866 79,110 

First six months 1867 53,215 

Total 302,554 

The discovery of this coal has caused a reduction in the price of the imported 
article. In 1857 the average price of imported coal was $35 per ton. In 1867 
the average price is about $15 per ton. A reduction of $20 per ton. 

The Mount Diablo coal is used almost exclusively by the river, feny, and 
coasting steamers, and by most of the stationary engines at San Prancisco, and 
at places convenient to the rivers. The flour mills at Napa, Suisun, and other 
places, use it, and considerable quantities are consumed at Sacramento and 
Stockton. Shipments are occasionally made to the Sandwich Islands, where it 
is used for running the engines on the sugar plantations. During the first sis 
months of 1867, 1,300 tons were shipped to Honolulu. 

The working of the mines has created several prosperous villages in their 
vicinity, among which may bo named Somersville, Clayton, Nortonville or Car- 
bondale, and Pittsburg Landing, the terminus of the Black Diamond railroad, 
about two miles from Antioch and four miles from New York. 

Prom the known dimensions of this coal field it is calculated to contain about 
12,000,000 tons. It is probable its extent will be traced beyond the present 
recognized limits. 

The Black: Diamoxd. — The company owning this mine was incoiiDorated 
in 1861, and have worked their property continuously since. In August, 1867, 
the mine produced about 4,000 tons, which was its average monthly product for 
some time previously. It employs about 150 men. The coal is extracted 
through two levels, but there is another in progress which, when completed, will 
strike the vein about 800 feet below both the present adits. 

The upper level is run on what is known as the Black Diamond seam, and is 
reached hy a tunnel 430 feet in length, cut through the sandstone which encloses 
the coal. The worldngs on this level extend three-quarters of a mile on both 
sides of the tunnel. This coal seam is four feet four inches thick. 



2S4 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The second level is about 550 feet below tlie above, passes tlirongli the Clark 
seam, -which is three feet six inches thick, and extends 300 feet beyond to the 
Black Diamond seam. The working on the Clark seam extends about half a 
mile on both sides of the tunnel and several hundred feet on the Blacli Diamond. 

The third opening is being made by an incline, which will strike the coal 
about live hundred feet below both the other levels. It will cut the Clark and 
the Black Diamond seams. When tins incline shall be completed this company 
will have a sheet of coal to work about 2,000 feet deep, running the length of 
their claim, nearly a mile. They also own the Manhattan, which they expect 
to work through the above levels by means of a drift now being cut. 

In working the Black Diamond the miners pass through several bodies of coal 
of fair quality, but too small to Avork with profit, ranging from 12 inches to 18 
inches in thickness, each being separated by a stratum of hard black slate. Two 
miles south of the tunnels on this mine the Black Diamond seam is found to be 
divided by two lenticular beds of tough clay, each from 10 to 12 feet thick, 
divided by a body of hard clay slate. This clay furnishes materials for the pot- 
tery at Antioch, and makes good fire brick. 

The mine is worked by stoping and drifting, the men laboring by contract. 
Every facility is afibrded by the company to take the coal out in as compact a 
form as possible. The arrangements for conveying it from the pit to the vessels 
on the river aflbrd an illustration of California engineering skill. The mouth 
of the main ad^t is situated nearly midway up the side of a steep mountain, 
several hundred feet above the level of the plain. To overcome this obstacle, 
a massive incline has been constructed of framed timbers 900 feet in length, the 
angle of which is 15 degrees. A double car track is laid on the incline. By 
means of a stout wire rope passing over a drum, nine feet in diameter, the loaded 
car is made to haul up the empty one. A car carrying 20 tons of coal descending 
pulls up 10 tons of timbers and other materials used in the mine. The foot of 
the incline connects with a railroad over which the cars are hauled by a locomo- 
tive to New York, on the San Joaquin river, where the arrangements are com- 
pleted for loading the fleet of vessels engaged in carrj'ing coal to San Francisco 
and other places, without any further handling. 

The railroad used by this company has no connection with the Pittsbm'g road, 
to be described hereafter ; this latter is the property "of another corporation. Its 
terminus on the river is four miles distant from New York. 

The Pittsbueg is worked by a stope cut at an angle of 30 degrees, by which 
the coal is reached at a distance of 350 feet. The monthly product is from 1,500 
to 1,800 tons. The coal is hoisted by a horizontal winding engine of sufficient 
power to raise 200 tons per day. 

The Pittsburg Coal Raileoad. — In 1862 a charter was granted to a 
company by the State legislature to construct a railroad from the mines to the 
river. But little was done towards its construction till the summer of 1865. It 
was not completed and furnished with rolling stock till February, 1866. The 
road, a remarkable specimen of engineering skill, is only five and a half miles 
in length. From the mines to the plain, a distance of a mile and a half, the 
o-rado of the track is 274.56 feet to the mile. The four miles from the river to 
the base of the mountain is constructed on a gradient of 40 to 160 feet to the 
mile. To overcome the inequalities of the surface of the country eight trestle 
bridges had to be constructed, the most extensive of which is 340 feet in length; 
a tunnel 300 feet long had to be cut, and a number of heavy banks and culverts 
built. All the timber used in making the bridges is selected Oregon pine and 
California redwood. The rails, of English iron, are laid on square redwood ties. 
The gauge of the road is four ieet eight and one-half inches. To overcome the 
friction ol" such a steep grade, two locomotives of a peculiar construction have 
been made at San Francisco. They have powerful engines and three pairs of 
36-inch driving-wheels each, with cylinders 14 by IS inches. Each weighs 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 235 

about 17 tons when loaded with fuel and Avater, which they cany theniselveS; 
having- no tenders. 

The total cost of the road is about $145,000. 

All the mines in a position to do so have constructed side branches to con- 
nect with this road. It is estimated that it can deliver 3,000 tons of coal daily 
on board the vessels at the wharf. The coal is shipped from the cars to the 
vessels by shutes. 

The friction on the brakes when the locomotives are comini^ down the incline 
is tremendous, but thus far no serious accidents have happened. 

The coal from the Union, Pittsburg, Independent, and Eureka mines is car- 
ried by this road. 

The Teutokia, the pioneer of the district, has been explored to a depth of 
500 feet by means of an incline cut at an angle of '60 degrees. At this depth 
the upper seam of coal, two feet thick, was reached. A horizontal drift from the 
bottom of this incline strikes the Clark seam where it is 3 feet 10 inches thick. 
Another drift, run in an opposite direction, strikes the lower or Black Diamond 
seam. It is known that there are two other seams of coal in this mine, the low- 
est of which is about five feet thick. The want of cheap facilities for conveying 
the coal to market prevents the owners from working it to advantage. The 
company owns 640 acres of coal land ; have good engines, pumps, and hoisting- 
gear. The mine faces the property of the Pacific Company ; the ground nearly 
lour miles between the two mines is almost a level plain. The land belonging to 
the Pacific Company extends to the hills bounding the Teutonia Company's 
ground. 

The Uisrio^sr. — Operations on this mine were commenced in 1861. The coal 
is reached by a stope, which, in July, 1867, was 500 feet in length, having a 
vertical depth of 230 feet. The seam averages three feet six inches in thick- 
ness, and is on the Clark, or iipper seam. The monthly product ranges from 
1,800 to 2,000 tons. The hoisting is done by a horizontal driving engine. 

The Ixdepexdext. — Work on this mine was commenced in 1861, though 
the coal was not reached till 1866, owing to the quantity of water that entered 
the shaft, the mine being the lowest in the district, and worked l)y a perpen- 
dicular shaft 700 feet deep. Upwards of $180,000 was expended for machinery, 
pumps, labor, &c., before the coal was reached. The pump in use at present, 
and which is barely sufiicient to keep the mine dry, is driven by a 75-horse 
power horizontal engine, and lifts 130,000 gallons per hour. So great is the 
influx of water that a stoppage of the pumps for 24 hours would require 20 days' 
pumping to clear it. The hoisting and other machinery is powerful. The 
cages, or hoisting cars, each holding nearly a ton, are lifted by a rope four inches 
in circumference. About 200 car-loads are hoisted daily. The product of the 
mine averages about 1,500 tons monthly. 

The Eueeka is owned and worked by the Independent Company. About 
160 men are employed in both mines. This produces about 1,500 tons per month, 
but could produce more. The company, in March, 1867, increased their capital 
from $500,000 to $3',000,000, in order to conduct operations on a larger scale, 
and have since made improvements. 

The coal is obtained by an incline 600 feet in length, at an angle of 45°. 
It is taken from three seams. The upper, or Clark seam, is three feet eight inches 
thick ; the middle, two feet six inches ; and the lower, or Black Diamond, four 
feet. The two upper seams are passed through in reaching the lower one. The 
distance between the upper and lower varies from 225 to 350 feet. The Em-eka 
uses a horizontal winding engine for hoisting. 

The Central, which, prior to the construction of railroads by the Pitsburg 
and Black Diamond Companies, furnished a large portion of the coal sent to 
market, is at present idle. The slow and expensive transportation by teams 
places it out of the field in competition with mines having the advantage of rail- 



236 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

roads. It is in contcyiplation to construct a railroad to connect it and tlie Teu- 
tonia with the river. Both these mines are located on the same side of the 
mountain, and suffer alike from want of cheap transportation ; both contain 
unbrolien scams of coal; have been well opened, and have powerful machinery 
for working purposes. 

Tni: Pacific, the property of a wealthy corporation of New York capitalists, 
is located about six miles east of Somersville, on the Rancho do los Mcganos, or 
Marsh's ranch, as it is now called. The ranch covers three square leagues of 
land, embracing a portion of the foot-liills at the base of Mount Diablo, and 
extending to the San Joaquin river. Borings and other explorations have sat; 
isfied the engineers and agents of the company that the seams of coal worked 
in Mount Diablo pass in a nearly horizontal position under this ranch, covering 
a space of six miles square. A shaft is now in progress at a point near the 
western extremity of the ranch, several miles west of the distm-bed formation in 
the Peacock, Pachcco, and San Francisco Companies' ground. It is calculated 
that this shaft will strike the Black Diamond seam at a depth of 400 feet. The 
calculation is based on the dip of the seam, which was reached by an incline 
sunk about 1,200 feet, from which the seam was prospected 200 feet laterally 
and found to average four feet four inches in thicknesss. The Clark and middle 
seams w'ere reached in July last, dipping at an angle of 30°, leaving little room 
to doubt that the more important seam will be reached at a sufficient depth. 
The coal taken from the mine at present is used in running the machinery. The 
shaft in progress is intended to serve as the general outlet of the mine. Its 
dimensions are 16 feet by 8 inside the timbers. It is timbered all through and 
divided into three compartments, two of which are fitted for hoisting purposes. 
The centre serves as the pump shaft. It is estimated that when the mine is 
fairly opened and the machinery in operation, 20 tons of coal can be raised per 
hour. In July last, the shaft had reached 150 feet in depth. 

The machinery was made at the Union Iron Works, at San Francisco. The 
pumping engine weighs 20 tons and is of 175-horse power, with three boilers, 
each 35 feet long and 42 inches in diameter. The pump is what is known as a 
Cornish ^' lift," having a six-feet stroke and 12^-inch bore. It is estimated to 
be capable of raising a body of water the size of the bore 1,000 feet. 

The company have a lease of 13,316 acres of coal land. A railroad from the 
mine to the river is projected. 

Laboe, Wages, &c. — It is estimated that 1,000 men are employed in and 
about the mines at Mount Diablo. The miners work chiefly by contract. The 
general price for breaking out the coal is $1 per square yard. The men who 
perform this labor make from $4 to $6 per day. The unskilled laborers are 
paid from $40 to $65 per month, in gold. Board and lodging costs from $6 to 
$8 per week. No Chinese are employed. 

The monthly wages paid by the several mines in this district aggregates 
about $50,000 or $600,000 per annum. The average cost to the companies for 
extracting and delivering the coal is $6 per ton, divided as follows: Miners' 
wages, hoisting, wear and tear, and interest on capital, or total cost of coal in 
the bunkers at mouth of mine, $3 50 per ton ; freight by railroad to Pittsburg, 
$1 pel ton; shipping from thence to San Francisco, $1 per ton; commissions 
and general management, 50 cents per ton. 

The present market value of ]\f ount Diablo coal suitable for domestic purposes 
is from $8 to $9 per ton. As only, SO per cent, of that placed in the bunkers is 
marketable, 20 per cent, being screenings, which are sold at $5 per ton, the 
margin of profit, after all expenses are paid, is very limited. 

The above shows as nearly as can be ascertained the present condition and 
future prospects of the coal mines in California. It has not been a remunera- 
tive business to the capitalists who have engaged in it, owing to inexperience in 
the working of the mines, injudicious management, the high cost of roads to 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 287 

navigable waters, and the difficulties to be overeome in creating a market where 
the best imported coals had been so long in use. All these obstacles to success 
are gradually disappearing, and it is believed the coal interest in California will, 
in time, pay a fair percentage upon the capital invested in it. Incidentally it 
lias been of advantage to the country, having furnished employment to a consid- 
erable number of laborers, created a demand for machinery, and supplied cheap 
fuel for domestic use and for purposes of manufacture and navigation. 

The Coal Mines of OrvEGOX. — A seam of coal was discovered in May, 
1867, on the land belonging to Mr. Frank Cooper, in Marion county, about 30 
miles fc'om Salem. Considerable quantities of the coal have been sent to that 
city, where it sells readily. A wagon road is being constructed thence to the 
mine, in order to supply tlie demand. At the depth of 65 feet the seam is about 
five feet thick, and the quality of the coal better than at the surface. Good coal 
has been found near the Premier mills, on Bear creek, a tributary of the Yaquina 
river, in Benton county, about 30 miles west from Corvallis. Five separate 
seams of coal have been found in this locality, varying from six inches to four 
feet in thickness. The most valuable seam is within five miles of Yaquina bay. 
This is about four feet thick, and nearly horizontal in position. It has been 
prospected over a considerable extent of the adjoining country. It is estimated 
that coal in this vicinity can be delivered at S3 50 per ton, owing to natiu'al 
facilities for working and transportation. Most of the mines are not more than 
five miles from navigable waters, and that distance over an almost level plain, 
A railroad could be cheaply constructed to the place of debarcation. 

Towards the close of 1S66 a seam of coal was discovered on the bank of Til- 
lamook bay, 50 miles south of Astoria and 60 miles northwest from Salem. 

There is another coal seam of a similar character on the shore of Nehalem, 
about 25 miles further up the river. 

Extensive beds of coal are in progress of exploration about three miles from 
Farwell bend, on the Snake river. A tunnel has been run on a vertical seam 
about 300 feet, where a number of smaller seams connect and form a body of 
coal about 10 feet thick. The mouth of the tnnnel is close to the bank of the 
river. Another seam of coal discovered, 200 feet above the original discovery, 
is said to contain good coar, and to be five feet thick. 

Coal has been found in the Calapooya mountains, within a few miles of 
Barry's survey for a railroad from the Columbia river to California. This dis- 
covery is considered of importance in that part of Oregon. 

There is a coal field on both sides of the CoquiUe river, in Coos county. The 
Coos Bay mines are in the northern edge of this field, which extends into Curry 
county. The seams, of which there are three, are thicker and the coal of a 
better quality on the Coquille river than at Coos bay. The two larger seams 
unite on the river and form a body of coal nearly 13 feet thick. There is another 
field between the south and middle forks of the Coquille, Avliich is 1,600 feet 
higher in the mountains than the last mentioned. It has been traced for 22 miles 
in length by eight miles in width. One scam is 10 feet thick. The Coos Bay 
deposit extends about 25 miles north and south, and 20 miles east and west. It 
is most valuable on the south, but is only worked on the north. 

Coos Bay Coal. — What is known as Coos Bay coal bears a good reputa- 
tion in California. It is found in a number of seams which crop out on the sur- 
face of the ridge that divides Coos bay on the south from the Coquille river. 

The locality of the best mine will be understood from a brief description of 
the bay. Coos bay is about 14 miles in length, varying from one and a half to 
two and a half miles wide. The main part of it has a direction northeast by 
southwest. At the upper end there is a shaip bend to the north. The Coos 
river rises some 30 miles inland and enters the upper end of the bend. Four 
miles from the mouth, in a densely timbered and hilly country, is Marshfield, the 
centre of the coal mininsr. The facilities for working the mines are crude. If 



238 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

the aiTangemcnts were more complete the supply of coal could be increased. 
There is a good entrance to the bay. The bar at its mouth has 14 feet of water 
at high tide, and there is a government light-house convenient. Four miles from 
the entrance of the bay, on the south shore, is Empire City, the seat of Coos 
county, a thriving little place. 

The supply of Coos bay coal at San Francisco has increased during the past 
three years, as the following table will show. The consumption has increased 
in Oregon to an equal extent, 

1865 500 tons, 

1866 : 2,120 " 

1867, (first six months only) 2,520 " 

Coal in Washixgtox Terkitoiit, — A seam of coal is being worked on the 
bank of the Cowlitz river, six or eight miles from where it unites with the Colum- 
bia. The Cowlitz coal differs in appearance and composition from other coal 
found on this coast. It is light, its specific gravity scarcely exceeding 1, It 
breaks with a bright glassy fracture, burns with a peculiar white flame and very 
little smoke, leaving but a small per cent, of white, powdery ashes. It contains 
no sulphur, does not soil the fingers in handling, makes a hot fire, which continues 
longer than most of the west coast coal. It cakes in burning and makes a con- 
siderable per cent of coke. Professor W, P. Blake has made an examination 
of this mine and coal, and considers them valuable. 

A coal mine of some reputation is at Bellingham bay, near the northwest 
boundary of the Territory. About two years since it became the property of a 
San Francisco corporation, which had commenced making improvements for 
mining and exporting the coal, when, from some cause not clearly understood, 
the mine took lire. The fire could not be subdued till the underground works 
were flooded. This misfortune prevented operations in the mine for nearly a 
year, and caused a serious loss to the company. It was reopened in Februar\^, 
1867. The first cargo of coal since the fire was received in May. Since that 
time the supply has steadily increased. The following table gives the quantity 
of coal from this mine received at San Francisco during the past three years : 

1865 14,446 tons. 

1866 11,380 '' 

1867, (first six months only) 1,275 " 

The Fuca Straits Coal Mines are situated in the northern part of Wash- 
ington Territory, on the south shore of the Straits of Fuca, about 45 miles south- 
west from Victoria and 40 miles southeast from the Pacific ocean. The company 
owning the mines possess 2,080 acres of the surrounding country. The land 
embraces the shores of Clallam bay for several miles. The sm-face of the coun- 
try is exceedingly hilly and broken, and is covered with a dense forest of spruce, 
fir, and cedar to the water's edge. Its geological formation is exposed by several 
landslides of recent occun-ence, some of them being quite close to the mine. It 
consists of sandstones and shales, with occasional conglomerate, the whole broken, 
divided, and tilted up in different du'cctions by dikes of indurated sandstone. To 
such an extent has this displacement been effected that it is difficult to trace the 
continuity of the stratification. The largest bodies of the exposed strata dip 
toward the land at angles varying from 15° to 40°, The croppings of the coal 
arc conspicuous from Clallam bay to Pillar Point, eight miles to the southeast. 

The lowest seam is about two feet thick, and is seen some 60 feet above the 
water line of the bay, in the face of the hill where the mine has been opened. 
It dips towards the land at an angle of 35°, About 250 feet higher in the hill 
is another seam about 15 inches thick, and 300 feet still higher another eight 
inches thick. The mine is located on the lowest of these seams. The work 
done by the company includes a tunnel run into the face of the hill 70 feet. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 239 

whore it readies the coal, at a convenient level -for shipping. From this point 
an incline 250 feet in length has been run on the seam, ihe lower part of which 
changes its dip from 35° to 25°. Lateral drifts have been run 350 feet to the 
east and' 180 feet to the west, the latter terminated b}- a thick sandstone dyke. 
Two dikes of similar materials were met in the other drift, one foui-, the other 
nine feet thick. 

About 1,500 tons of coal were taken from this mine up to the close of 18G6, when 
operations were suspended for want of funds to cany them on. In 1S67 a com- 
pany was incorporated for the purpose of working this mine, under the title of 
the Phoenix Coal Mining Compan3^ Operations now give better promise of 
success. The original owners, having no other machinery than a hand pump and 
windlass, labored under disadvantages. The coal, owing to the expense of labor, 
cost $7 50 per ton, delivered at San Francisco. The new company, having 
pumps and hoisting gear worked by steam, can obtain it at less expense. 

The first cargo, 500 tons, from this mine since it has been reopened, was received 
at San Francisco in August, 18G7, where it sold at $12 per ton, costing the com- 
pany $G per ton to deliver. 

The English government steamer Zealous has been supplied from this mine. 
The engineers of that vessel speak favorablj'- of the coal, stating that it makes 
less soot in the flues and less ashes than any other obtained on the coast. 

The new company have extended the workings on the original incline to 1,300 
feet, where the seam is nearly four feet thick. In making lateral drifts from the 
bottom of the incline, the dikes mentioned as interfering with the Avorkings on 
the upper levels Avere not met with, though these lower drifts were extended 300 
feet northeast and nearly 700 feet northwest. 

About 40 men are at present employed at the mine, who take out 100 tons of 
coal per week. 

Investigations by experienced mining engineers and geologists lead to the con- 
clusion that there is an extensive bed of coal in Clallam valley, of which the 
seams above described are but the margin. 

A bore 292 feet deep was sunk in this valley in 1866, at a point about a mile 
and a half from the bay. It passed through the following formations : 

Feet. Inches. 

Sandstone 11 6 

Till • , . . 1 

Sandstone 5 

Till 7 

Hard sandstone 1 

Beds of hard clay 5 

Sandstone 48 

Fire-clay , 5 

Sandstone 4 6 

Till 1 6 

Sandstone, in beds 8 10 

Till 5 

Sandstone 1 6 

Till 6 6 

Sandstone 3 6 

Till . , 1 4 

Clay, in beds 12 6 

Hard freestone 10 

Sandstone 13 6 

Coal 8 

Below this the bore passed through alternate layers of sandstone, shale, and 
conglomerate, till work was stopped for want of machinery. 



240 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

It is; a, matter of some importance to ascertain the extent of the deposit in tliis 
locality , as tlie quality of the coal in Fuca Straits mine is sucli that a good supply 
of it is desirable. 

Othkr Coal Mines in Washington Tekritort. — In July, 18G7, the Coal 
Creek lload Company, of Seattle, Washington Territory, was incorporated under 
a special act of the tt?rritorial legislature, with a capital of $30,000, for the pur- 
pose of constructing a road and making other improvements for developing the 
coal mines opened to the east of that town. These mines are reported to con- 
tain .excellent coal. 

A seam of coal has been recently opened near Monticello, Cowlitz county, 
about 740 miles northeast of Mount Diablo. Some of it, tested on board the 
Oregon Steam Navigation Company's vessels, Avas found to be good for' steam 
purposes, burning with a clear flame and but Kttle smoke, leaving but a small 
residue of ashes. 

Coal in Nevada. — It is believed by persons who have travelled over this 
State that good coal exists near its northern and western boundaries. 

A seam of lignite is re^iorted to have been found during the past summer a 
few miles from Hiko, the county seat of Lincoln county, near the Pahranagat 
district. 

The surveyors employed by the Central Pacific Raikoad Company report the 
existence of coal at the eastern base of the mountains near Crystal Peak, con- 
venient to the Truckee river, in the immediate vicinity of the line of that rail- 
road. 

Parties prospecting for gold and silver among the Goose Creek mountains 
report croppings of coal at several places in that part of the State. The Goose 
Creek mountains are on the line of the Central Pacific railroad, above the valley 
of the Humboldt. Coal has been known to exist in these mountains for many 
years. The early emigrants who crossed the plains in 1850 li-equently spoke of 
having seen it. 

An inferior quality of coal is known to exist in the mountain ranges of western 
Nevada, and in the Walker river country. 

Coal in Utah. — A seam of bituminous coal, about six feet thick, has been 
explored on Webber creek, a few miles from Great Salt Lake City. It is nearly 
horizontal in position, overlaid by strata of sandstone and a deposit of conglomo- 
rate. 

Coal has also been found at Beaver creek, about 300 miles south from Salt 
Lake. 

The Vancouver Island Mines are being worked to some extent. Exports 
in June from the Nanaimo mine reached 3,G36 tons, and July 4,676 tons. 

The imports of this coal at San Francisco during the past three years has been 
as follows: 1865, 18,181 tonsj 1866, 10,852 tons; 1867, 9,160 tons, for first 
six months only. 

Concluding Remarks. — The existence of coal along the northwest coast 
of the Pacific has been known since the discovery of the country. The seams 
cropping out in the face of nearly every bluff and promontory from Oregon to 
Sitka are too conspicuous to have been overlooked. The cost of and difficulty 
in procuring labor and transportation, as well as the lack of enterprise on the 
part of the settlers along the coast, have retarded the development of this impor- 
tant resource. The condemnation of valuable discoveries by pretended experts 
on account of presumed subterranean disturbances in the vicinit}" has discouraged 
capitalists from testing the value of many good mines. It is proper hero to 
remark that the subterraneous disturbances on this coast are remarkablj^ local in 
their effects, rarely extending for any considerable distance. The developments 
in the Mount Diablo district illustrate this fact. The section in this district on 
which is located the Peacock, Pacheco, and San Francisco mines is found to bo 
so much broken and distm'bed as to render the workings of these mines unprofit- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 241 

able, while to tlie north and south the coal has not been broken or displaced. It 
is. therefore, probable that many bodies of coal which are now considered too 
much broken to pay for development will be found valuable on more thorough 
examination. 

The extent of -the coal fonnation on the Pacific coast is surprising. Mr. Fou- 
coult, a French gentleman, who spent several years examining the northern coast 
from Washington Territory to the newly-acquired territory of Alaska, states that 
anthracite exists at Skidegate inlet. Queen Charlotte's island, and that a seam 
of the same kind of coal is seen cropping out on the mainland opposite, about 
40 miles distant. Specimens have been sent to San Francisco, where they were 
examined by competent persons, who pronounced them of good quality. Tho 
extent of these deposits is unknown, but they establish the fact of the existence 
of anthracite on this coast. 

Vancouver's island contains sheets of coal, which may be seen cropping out at 
various points along its shores on the east and west. From Cape Flattery t-^ 
Admu-alty inlet, in AVashington Tenitory, there is an almost continuous outcrop 
of coal. The Fuca Straits mine, described above, is only 16 miles from tlie 
croppings on Neah bay. Unfortunately this part of tho coast is destitute of a 
good harbor, or doubtless the coal would have been developed to a much greater 
extent. But capital and engineering skill can overcome even this defect if the 
inducements are sufficient. 

From the above data it will be seen that the coal deposits west of the Eocky 
mountains, though yielding an inferior quality of coal, are quite extensive, and 
furnish such promise of improvement as to justify the belief that the supply will 
be sufficient in the futm'c for the demands of all branches of industry on the 
Pacific coast. 

Maeble, Limestone, &c. — The use of marble for domestic, artistic^ and 
funeral purposes is very general in California, especially in San Francisco. 
Marble mantels, tables, and slabs are to be found in almost every residence, 
workshop, and store. The graves of all, save the utterly friendless dead, are 
adorned with marble tablet or monument of some kind. This taste has created 
an important branch of productive industry. 

There are fourteen factories engaged in the manufactures of marble in San 
Francisco, some of which employ 30 or 40 men. One has steam machinery for 
cutting and polishing the marble, and tm'us out 3,000 feet of slabs per month, 
in addition to tombstones, mantels, and other ornamental work. There are mar- 
ble factories at Sacramento and Marysville, and one at each of the following 
towns in the interior: Stockton, Sonera, Petaluma, Santa Cruz, San Jose, Dow- 
nieville, Folsom, and other places. Probably 1,000 persons are employed in 
California (Quarrying, transporting, and working marble. 

The consumption in San Francisco averages 500 cubic feet j^er month ; the 
factories in the interior use about one-fourth as much ; total consumption in the 
State, say (300 feet per month, or 7,200 feet per annum. The average price of 
marble at present is $5 per foot. It thus appears that the value of the raw 
material used in this business amounts to $36,000 annually. The vahie of manu- 
factured marble in the State is estimated at $2,500,000. 

The most singular and suggestive feature in this business is presented in the 
fact that, although California contains an abundance of marble of great beauty 
and variety, most of that used in San Francisco is imported from Italy or New 
York. This fact may be attributed to the want of good roads and cheap trans- 
portation. It is found more economical to bring the raw material from Genoa, 
Italy, including transhipment at Bordeaux or Marseilles, than from the foot hills 
in the State, less than 100 miles from Stockton or Sacramento. 

There are two firms in San Francisco engaged in the importation of marble. 
B3-igadelli & Co. are in the Italian branch of the business. They own a vessel i 
of 300 tons register, sailing between San Francisco and Genoa. Large quanti-.- 
16 



242 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

ties are bronglit by Frencli vessels from French ports. From June, 1866, to 
June, 1867, this firm imported 545 tons of Italian marble and had 600 tons more 
on the way, the whole of which was sold, leaving orders still unfilled. The 
present price of Italian marble is 50 cents per superficial foot, in slabs of seven- 
eighths of an inch thick ; in blocks of ordinary dimensions, $5 per cubic foot ; 
blocks weighing several tons, at $6 per cubic foot. California marble cannot be 
laid down in San Francisco at these rates. Myers & Co. import Italian marble 
from New York, Avhere it is brought in vessels from Genoa. This firm also 
imports white marble from Vermont, which sells at $15 per cubic foot, being used 
in the finer kinds of work. Some of the ornamental mantels in the homes of the 
wealthy cost $750 to $1,000 each. 

The marble dust used in the preparation of cfFervescing beverages is imported 
from New York. Five hundred tons annuallj^ are consumed, at a cost of about 
$30 per ton. 

The cost of transportation, which gives the imported marble a monopoly of the 
markets along the coast, prohibits its introduction in the interior. All the facto- 
ries in towns above Sacramento, Marysville, and Stockton use the native marble, 
because it is cheapest at these places. With reference to the quality of the 
Pacific coast marble, as compared with the imported article, the fact should be 
taken into consideration that it is excavated from near the surface. None of the 
quarries have been opened to any considerable depth ; consequently the marble 
is scarcely as fine in color or texture as it will be found at a greater depth. Much 
of it, nevertheless, when compared with the Italian, loses nothing by the contrast. 
Many samples of the California marble are superior. The block of white mar- 
ble, from the quany at Columbia, Tuolumne county, from which the sculptor 
Devine formed the bust of the late Senator Bi oderick, compares favorably with 
the Carrara in color, texture, and purity. 

The recently-discovered quarries of black and white marbles near Colfax, 
Placer county, on the line of the Central Pacific railroad, will probably stop the 
importations from Ital3^ The beauty of the black marble from this locality, the 
exquisite polish it retains, and the advantage the owners of the quarry possess in 
railroad communication, which enables them to deliver it at San Francisco cheaper 
than the Italian, will probably give it the control of the market. 

Tliere are many localities in California where quarries of marble are known to 
exist, but, with few exceptions, they remain undeveloped. A belt of limestone 
traverses the State from north to south, between the foot hills and the Sierras, 
said to be 20 miles Avide, forming a prominent feature in the topograph}'^ of the 
counties famous for placer gold, particularly in Tuolumne, Calaveras, Amador, 
Nevada, El Dorado, and Placer counties. This belt abounds in white or grayish 
marble; and it is not improbable marble of variegated colors will be found on 
more thorough examination, as local causes are known to control the color. In 
illustration, it may be stated that in the gulch on the south side of the road 
between Columbia and Gold Springs, Tuolumne county, there are bodies of 
marble of a jetty blackness, colored by manganese j on Matelot gulch, about a 
mile to the east, there is a deposit of marble which, through the action of salts 
of iron, has been mottled with red, brown, yellow, blue, and green spots; on 
Mormon gulch, about three miles to the west, are masses of marble of very fine 
texture veined Avith pale green by the action of chlorine. This variety of color 
is not peculiar to that locality, but may be observed throughout the State. The 
Suisun marble, of Solano county, and the black and white marbles recently 
found near Colfax, Placer county, are cases in point. 

Little attention has thus far been paid to the marble quames of the State, 
because the working of them has not been profitable, except in a few localities. 
As soon as railroads and cheaper labor shall remove existing impediments, 
they \vill probably become a som'co of profit, both to individuals and to the 
State. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 243 

The most important quarries at present worked- are the following : 

TuDiAisr Diggings.- — This quarry is located on the limestone belt, above 
refeiTed to, in El Dorado county. It was opened in 1857. A considerable 
quantity of marble has been taken from it, darkly and coarsely marked with 
gray and black. It is very beautiful in large masses, but has a smeary appear- 
ance in small pieces; it is susceptible of a high polish, whicli it retains well. 
Monuments, after exposure for 10 years to the heat and cold peculiar to the foot 
hills of California, are as bright and glossy on the surface and edges as when 
erected. 

The CoLUiiBiA is located on the same limestone belt, on the Tuolumne county 
side of south fork of Stanislaus river, near Abbey's Ferry, 70 miles from Stock- 
ton, the head of navigation on the San Joaquin river. This quarry was opened 
in 1860, and has been well developed. The quality of the marble is fine in 
grain and nearly Avhite, with pale gray pencillings, and has improved with the 
depth of the workings. Blocks of 20 feet square, Avithout flaw or blemish, may 
be obtained from this quany. Machinery was erected for working it, and a mill 
built for cutting the blocks into slabs and polishing them. The works consisted 
of a revolving derrick Avith a boom 60 feet in length, by means of which two 
men could take blocks weighing 10 to 15 tons from any part of the quarry and 
place them on cars which ran on a track laid around it and connected with the 
mill. This mill had 100 saws and four polishing machines, moved by water 
power. Many thousands of tons of marble were cut here between 1862 and 
1866. The increase of importations, erection of similar machinery at San Fran- 
cisco, and the impossibility of sending the product to market dming the Avinter, 
owing to the want of good roads, has caused the proprietors to cease operations, 
except during the summer. Some of the handsomest monuments in the State are 
made of this marble; that erected to the memory of the late Senator Broderick, 
in the Lone Mountain cemetery, at San Francisco, is a beautiful specimen. 

The CoLrAS Quaeeies. — The most noted of these was discovered in 1866, 
in the mountains bordering the Bear river, about two miles to the east of the 
town of Colfax, Placer county, near the line of the Central Pacific railroad. 
The marble differs from all others found on the coast, being a dark gray, with 
jet black venation. When polished it is very beautiful. The mantels in the 
new Bank of California are made of this marble, Avhich contributes to the beauty 
of the interior of that structure. 

The proprietors of the quarry are among the first to derive direct benefit from 
the Central Pacific railroad, and tlieir case illustrates how great an advantage 
that road will be in developing the resources of the State. Without such a 
means of transportation the marble could not be delivered at San Francisco fdr 
less than $20 per ton; Avith it freight is only $8 per ton. The owners of the 
quarry at Columbia pay $10 per ton for hauling their marble to Stockton Avhen 
the roads are good, but from $12 to $15 per ton during the winter, Avith an addi- 
tion of $2 per ton from that place to San Francisco by water. The expenses 
for transportation are still higlier from the Indian Diggings quarry. Expense 
of transportation alone has thus far prevented the development of this valuable 
resource, and cost the State as much for imported marble as Avould have nearly 
paid for a railroad to the quames. 

There is a quany of nearly Avhite marble recently discovered on the Appleton 
ranch, about scA^en miles from Colfax and two miles from the raikoad. Some 
fine blocks have been sent from it to San Francisco. 

Both these quames are in the limestone belt. 

The SuiSUN marble is found in the Pcleoo Hills, a short distance north of 
the city of Suisun, Solano county. It occurs in the form of iiTegular beds, in a 
peculiar sandstone- fonnation, and is of various shades of brown and yelloAV, 
beautifully blended in bands and threads, similar to the famous stalagmites of 
Gibraltar, which it resembles in origin and structm-e, as well as in appearance 



244 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

It lias been formed by water, holding lime and iron in solution, percolating 
througli the sandstone and depositing the mineral in cavities; consequently it is 
only found in limited quantity, though much of it, of an impure quality, is 
burned for making lime. 

Other Localities wheee Maeble has been found. — A quarry of marble 
has been opened recently on Butte creek, about 40 miles from Oroville, Ikitte 
county, near the lately-discovered iron mines. The quality is good, the color 
gray and white, and the deposit extensive, being on the limestone belt. 

There are other localities in the State where marble has been found, but the 
explorations have been too limited to determine their value. 

In May, 1867, Mr. J. E. Brown discovered and located a quany of marble a 
few miles north of Auburn, Placer county, of a nearly white color. Samples 
sent to San Francisco are considered fine. The quantity is abundant. 

A marble quarry has also been found to the south of the Bay of Monterej^, in 
the Coast range. 

Limestone and Lime. — The supply of these materials is abundant in nearly 
all parts of California. The great belt of limestone so frequently referred to 
furnishes materials for lime for the towns in the foot hills and among the Sien-as ; 
Avhile in the coast range there are other calcareous rocks, which supply the 
demands for lime in the towns and cities along the coast and on the plains. The 
consumption of lime at San Francisco averages about 100,000 barrels annually, 
three-fourths of Avhich is obtained from the vicinity of Santa Cruz, on the ranch 
of the Canada del Rincon, where there is a supply of Avhite metamorphic lime- 
stone, which makes good lime. Considerable quantities are also brought from 
Sacramento. Since the completion of the Central Pacific raikoad in that vicinity, 
lime is brought to San Francisco from near Auburn and Clipper Gap, Placer 
county. About 5,000 barrels are brought to Sacramento monthly by the railroad, 
and the supply is increasing with the facilities for its preparation and transpor- 
tation. 

The imports of lime at San Francisco, since 1864, have been as follows : 

Barrels. 
1864 73,553 

1865 90,037 

1866 89,786 

1867 (for first sis months only) - 67,840 

Total 321,216 



Average price during this time, $2 25 per barrel. The consumption of lime 
in San Francisco during the past tlnee and a half years has cost $722,736. The 
increase of brick and stone buildings during the latter half of 1867 has greatly 
augmented the consumption of Ihne. 

The construction of railroads and increase in buildings in the interior towns 
has also increased the consumption. The lime used for various purposes in the 
State annually probably exceeds $1,000,000 in value. 

The Golden City Chemical Works, at San Francisco, have made a few tons of 
chloride of lime as an experiment, but the demand for this compound is so small 
on tliis coast that its manufacture is unimportant. It was ascertained in making 
these experiments that the California lime will not absorb as much chlorine as 
that made in the Atlantic States or Em-ope. This may be the effect of a variety 
of causes; but it is of importance, both in practice and to science. Some of the 
English lime will absorb 50 per cent, of chlorine. None obtained in California 
would take up 30 per cent. The general per cent, of chlorine in imported 
chloride of lime does not exceed 10. It loses its strength during the voyage. 

Other Calcareous Minerals — Sulphate of Lime. — There are deposits 
of this mineral in various fonns in all the States and Territories on this coast. It 
is valuable when burned as a fertilizer on heavy clay lands, such as constitute 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 245 

much of "tule" and "adobe" bottoms in California. It is abundant in the coast 
range. A body of it is found in the form of selenite in the hills near Stockton^ 
within a few miles of the San Joaquin river. 

Considerable quantities of the same mineral are known to exist in most of the 
mountains which have been examined for silver in Alpine county^ among the 
the high SieiTas. 

Sulphate of lime, in the form of alabaster, is found in Tuolumne, Los Angeles, 
Solano, and several other counties. 

Near Silver City, Story county, Nevada, alabaster of great beauty is found, 
but it soon crumbles on exposm'e to the atmosphere. In 1862 this deposit was 
quanied as marble. It was soon discovered that blocks cut from it fell to pieces, 
and Avere useless for building and ornamental pm'poses ; but it makes good plaster 
of Paris. 

Beds of friable sulphate of lime exist in the vicinity of the Sulphur Springs, 
near Red Bluffs, Tehama county, in the fomi of loose grains, deposited by the 
waters of the thermal springs, which cover acres of ground in the vicinity. All 
the hot springs on this coast deposit sulphate of lime, in some form or other. 

In the Granite mountains, between Chico, in Tehama county, and Idaho, there 
are numerous deposits of gjqisum. Anhydrate, or dry sulphate of lime, is found 
in Plumas and SieiTa counties. Professor Whitney, State geologist of California, 
has various specimens. 

Excellent materials for the mamifacture of plaster of Paris exist on this coast. 
Considering the simpleness of its preparation it is remarkable that its manu- 
facture has not been attempted. The imports of plaster of Paris amount to 
about 6,000 ban-els annually at San Francisco, at an average cost of $4 per 
barrel, or nearly $25,000 per annum. Nearly all imported is from New York. 

Dolomite or Magnesian Limestoite. — This mineral has been found 
during the present year, on the Merced river, between Horseshoe Bend and Don 
Pedro's bar. It is fine grained, of a yellowish gray color, having much the 
appearance of "Turkey stone," and is prized for hones for sharpening razors, 
penknives, &c. It has been mistaken for lithographic limestone. The deposits 
are abundant, and it may ultimately be found an important resource. 

Htdeaulic Limestone. — California contains deposits of this valuable mineral, 
of good quality. The best known are found in a range of hills' at the back of 
Benicia, Solano county. Hydraulic, or Benicia cement, as it is called, is made 
here in considerable quantities, a company having been incorporated in 1860 
for the purpose of canying on its manufacture. The company has good machinery, 
kilns, and the necessary aiTangement for making several thousand barrels per 
month. An impetus has been given to this business by the action of the State 
harbor commissioners, who having charge of the construction of the sea-wall, in 
the harbor of San Francisco, have had experiments made with the various cements. 
The Benicia cement proving satisfactorj^, has been selected for use in the wall, 
which will be several miles in length, and of great depth and thickness, and 
will consequently require many thousand tons of cement. This action of the 
commissioners has had a tendency to remove a prejudice that had been cultivated 
by interested parties against the Califoniia cement. The imports of cement have 
been heav}^ for several years at San Francisco, the damp nature of the founda- 
tions in the business portions of the city requiring the bricks or stones to be laid 
in cement for several feet in extensive buildings. In 1866, 23,812 barrels were 
imported, at a cost of $91,648. During the first six months of 1867, 14,517 
barrels were imported, at a cost of $50,000. These figures show the importance 
of this business. 

The mineral in the vicinity of Benicia is found in a series of deposits extend- 
ing for several miles. Though there does not appear to be any regular stratum 
of it, there is sufficient to last for many years, should the consumption reach 100,000 
barrels annually. 



246 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TEREITORIES 



Hydraulic limestone is a sub-carbonate of lime, wbicli owes its value to its prop- 
erty of hardening- under water, to a certain proportion of clay in its composition. 
Too much clay causes it to set too slowly, while too little renders it unfit for use 
as a cement. It is necessary to make this explanation to render the following 
statements intelligible : 

There are two varieties of this mineral at Benicia, the one making a cement 
which hardens very rapidly, the other very slowly. Experience and observation 
prove that a combination of the two makes a hard, durable cement, which may be 
regulated to harden in any required time. Common limestone exists near the 
cement rock. The Avorkmen first employed in making the cement, not being 
aAvare of the difference, mixed all together in the kilns ; the consequence was to 
spoil the whole, and give the product a bad character in the market. But the 
processes for its preparation are now better understood, and the workmen more 
experienced. Such contaminations are avoided, and a really good cement is 
jDrepared. 

This Benicia cement stone is of a dark yellowish color, speckled with black, 
tolerably soft; breaks with a dull, earthy fracture, without any appearance of 
crystalization. 

The following table gives the results of some of the experiments made with 
various kinds of cements, to test the time each requnes for "setting" in the air 
and under water : 



Composition. 


Time setting 
in air. 


Time setting 
in water. 


1st quality Benicia cement. .. 


3 

25 

50 

30 

LOO 

J. 20 

1.50 


5 
30 
1.00 
50 
1.20 
1.50 
3.10 


8 
30 
1.20 
45 
1.50 
2.40 
4.10 


10 


2d quality Benicia cement 


50 


Mixtm'eof both 


1 25 


Eoman cement 


1.00 


Eastern cement 


2.20 


Mixture of equal parts Benicia cement and sand 

Mixture of one part of Benicia cement and two parts sand 


3.10 
5.25 



This cement is much used in the manufacture of drainage and water pipes. 
There are several factories of these articles in California. Miles of such pipe 
are laid down in San Francisco. Other places in the Coast range and foot hills 
have been found where cement stone is known to exist. On the banks of Hos- 
pital creek, a few miles south of Corral Hollow, San Joaquin county, there is a 
deposit of it similar in appearance and composition to that worked at Benicia. 

Within the past few months a hydraulic limestone has been discovered in 
Washington Temtory, on the Columbia river, about seven miles north from 
Astoria. Works are in com'se of erection to manufacture cement at this place. 
There can be but little dOubt that this mineral will be found abundantly all 
along this coast whenever an intelligent search shall be made for it. The meta- 
morphosis of the rocks in the Coast range has been of a nature to form it exten- 
sively. 

Okegon. — Limestone and marble are not so abundant in this State and the 
Territories north and west as in California. As mentioned in the report on iron, 
tlie Oregon smelting works have to import the limestone used in that establish- 
ment from the Island of San Juan. The limestone formation extending from 
Siskiyou to Los Angeles, in California, does not appear to extend into Oregon. 
At all events, its existence has not been reported. 

The recent discovery of a bed of limestone on Beaver creek, Clackamas count}'-, 
about 18 miles from the Willamette, is considered of much importance by the 
local press. It is presumable this mineral is scarce in that part of Oregon. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 247 

Nevada. — In addition to tlie alabaster mentioned above, in Stoiy county, 
cement rock lias been found in the Pinewood district, Humboldt county, and at 
many other places. No marble has thus far been found in this State, but there 
is sufficient carbonate of lime in other forms, in nearly all parts of it, to supply 
material for making lime for building purposes. 

BuiLDiXG Materials. — The mountainous nature of the Pacific coast, and 
the geological formations to which the rocks composing the mountains belong, 
suggest the existence of a great variety of building materials. Few countries 
possess greater abundance or variety of these materials than California, and there 
are few cities in the United States where equal opportunities are afforded for 
comparing the merits of the materials used in other countries with those obtained 
at home, than are presented at San Francisco. In the early days of this city 
everything was imported, from bread and clothing for its inhabitants to lumber, 
brick and stone for their houses. The city hall is built of Australian fi-eestone, 
several of the banks and other large edifices are built of China granite, and there 
are hundreds of steps, pillars, lintels, and other portions of buildings, of sand- 
stone and granite imported from the Atlantic States and Europe. The founda- 
tions of many of the old buildings in the city are laid on imported bricks. None 
of these materials are found to be as durable or as handsome as those since obtained 
in California. In this, as in other mineral resources, the cost of labor and trans- 
portation has impeded development. It is only under favorable conditions that 
stone lor building will pay to ship to San Francisco from the interior of the 
State; while the cheapness, excellence, and abundance of the lumber, and the 
general adaptability of the soil for the manufactm-e of bricks, cause these materials 
to bo used for building almost everywhere throughout the State. The intro- 
duction of iron mouldings for the decorative portions of large structures prevents 
a demand for stone for such purposes. The Bank of California building, at 
San Francisco, is the only structure of cut stone of any magnitude, outside of 
the government fortifications, on the Pacific coast. Under such circumstances 
little attention is paid to opening quarries to test the quality of the stone. The 
consumption of stone is confined to granite for curbing and paving the streets, 
and the basements and steps for a few of the more costly buildings at San Fran- 
cisco. 

The following details concerning the supply of building materials will show 
how varied and valuable they are in California : 

Granite. — Quarries of this rock are in nearly every county, including portions 
of the foot-hills or sierras. But as none of them are convenient to railroads or 
rivers, excei)t the following, only these will be referred to : 

The oldest and best known is located near Folsom, Placer county ; another 
quany worked to some extent exists at Natoma, in the canon of the American 
river, a few miles from the first; another at Rocklin, 22 miles from Sacramento; 
and a fourth at Penryn, 28 miles from that city. The last two are on the lino 
of the Central Pacific railroad. 

There is a marked difference in the appearance of the rock from these several 
quarries. That from Folsom is hard and dark, containing feathery crystals of 
black hornblende in patches, on a dark bluish-gray ground of quartz and feldspar. 
Very little mica exists in any of the California granite. That from Natoma is 
as dark as that from Folsom, but the components being more evenly distributed 
gives it a lighter appearance. The stone-cutters consider this the best rock for 
smooth blocks. It has a clean and fresh appearance, never changing color. The 
granite from Rocklin is of a nearly snowy whiteness, remarkably fine grained, 
and free from stains and blotches, and is susceptible of a fine finish. The upper 
portion of the State capitol at Sacramento is being built of this stone. The 
mouldings and other architectural ornaments are cut with sharpness and elegance. 
The lower portion of the structure is built of the Folsom stone, which has a dark 
and dingy appearance in comparison with the lighter and marble-like stone above. 



248 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The fortifications in course of construction near 8an Francisco arc being built 
of Penryn granite, which is somewhat darker than that from Rocklin, but lighter 
than the others described above. The basements of nearly all the large stores 
and warehouses in San Francisco are built of Folsom rock. The quarries at 
Rocklin are very extensive. It is possible to break off' blocks of large dimen- 
sions — masses 100 feet long by 100 feet deep, and 10 feet thick, have been 
quarried out and afterwards split into smaller blocks, of any required thickness, 
across the grain, by means of gads and sledges. The rock splits evenly. There is 
a body of this rock several miles in length and breadth and of unknown depth. 

In San Francisco are 10 stone-yards, at which about 350 men are emploj-ed 
dressing and trimming granite for building and paving purposes. These yards 
use about 400 tons of stone per month. The curbs and crossings of the principal 
streets are made of this rock. There are 20 miles of such curbing and cross- 
walks. The Central Pacific railroad carries about 5,000 tons of granite from 
Rocklin and Penryn to Sacramento, the greater portion of which is brought 
to San Francisco by schooners. About 1,000 tons per month are brought from 
th(! quarries at Folsom and Natoma. 

The price of granite at San Francisco is $1 50 per cubic foot, or $21 per ton 
in blocks delivered at the wharf. The cost of trimming it is high; stone-cutters 
being paid $4 per day in gold for nine hours work. 

Sakdstoxes, &c. — Brown stone of good quality for building purposes is 
quarried near Hayward's, Alameda county. Some of this stone is used in the 
city cemeteries as bases for monuments and for building vaults. Its sombre 
appearance is considered an advantage. 

Greenish-gray sandstone is obtained from Angel island, in the Bay of San 
Francisco. Of this beautiful stone the new building of the Bank of California 
lias been built. The scroll-work and sculpture on the front are fine and smooth 
in outline as if cut in marble, while the color is soft and pleasant to the eye. 
Each pillar^ lintel, and post of the doors and windows is formed of a single block, 
some of them 10 feet in length. The wheels used in the linseed oil factory at 
Steamboat Point are also made of Angel Island stone. These wheels are seven 
feet in diameter and 18 inches thick, each weighing five tons. 

In several of the interior counties are deposits of a variety of trachytes, form- 
ing portions of table mountain, which make good materials for buildings. It 
is generally of a pinkish or gray color, fine in grain, and when first taken from 
the quarry is sufficiently soft to be trimmed with a common hatchet, but a few 
months' exposure to the air renders it quite hard. A valuable deposit is found 
near ]\Iokelumne Hill, Calaveras county. Wells & Fargo's office, several hotels, 
and other buildings in that town are made of it. Some of these buildings are 
14 years old, and the stones in them retain the marks and edges as when first 
made. 

A quarry of freestone, of a pale drab color and fine texture, is found near 
Marsh's creek, six miles from the Mount Diablo coal mines. 

Near the Merced river, in Mariposa county, on the road between Bear Valley 
and Stockton, there are beds of freestone well adapted to building purposes. 
The stone is of a pleasant pinkish tint, with wavy lines of brown and purple, 
and is compact and stands exposure well. With cheap transportation it would 
become a favorite for many purposes, as it can be cut cheaper than granite, and 
is better adapted to building than marble, and is more elegant and durable than 
brick. 

Bkicks. — The manufacture of bricks is carried on extensively in nearly every 
county in the State, The tough clay of the Sacramento valley probably makes 
the best. Some of the earth used in one or two localities along the coast in 
early times, contained a per centum of soda and potash. Such bricks are ill- 
suited for a climate as humid as that of San Francisco. The moisture causes 
the alkali to exude, injuring the paint or plaster with which the bricks are covered. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 249 

The consumption of bricks at San Francisco" amounts to about 100,000,000 
annually. The average price is $12 per 1,000. About 20,000,000 are used 
annually in the interior of the State, at an average cost of $16 per 1,000. Until 
recently the bricks made were the product of hand labor. A brick-makin"- 
machine was introduced in July, 1867. The increase of building consumes all 
that are made. The city corporation uses many millions annually in the con- 
struction of sewers, of which there are 10 miles within the city limfts. 

Roofing Slates. — ^Notwithstanding the abundance of slate on this coast, 
but little of it fit for roofing purposes has thus far been found. The use of 
shingles, asphaltum, and tin for roofing, which are so much cheaper and lighter 
than slate, is almost general, so that but little inducement is held out to furnisb 
slate. In 1865 a company was organized in Amador county for the purpose of 
working a slate quarry found in that county. Experienced Welsh slaters were 
interested in the enterprise. They say the Amador slate is quite equal to any 
found in Wales. The causes above stated, together with the cost of labor and 
transportation, rendered the enterprise unprofitable, and it was abandoned. No 
doubt a proper search would result in the discovery of an abundant supply of roof- 
ing slates on this coast. 

Steatite, or Soapsto:!^e, though not strictly a building material, is classed 
under this head because it is valuable in various departments of arts and man- 
ufactures. There are localities in all the States and Temtories on this coast, 
except Arizona, where this mineral is known to exist in great abundance, but 
its consumption is limited at present. Only one or two deposits are found pro- 
fitable to work, and these only to an inconsiderable extent. There is but one 
establishment on the coast for the manufacture of articles from soapstOne. This 
is at San Francisco, where it was commenced in 1866. As marble can be obtained 
cheaper than this stone, its use is confined to blocks for lining furnaces, slabs 
for the chemical works, linings for stoves, beds for ovens, &c. Its peculiar property 
of standing a high temperature, and retaining the heat a long time, makes it val- 
uable for such purposes. About 200 tons are used at San Francisco annually ; 
part of it in the form of powder by soap-makers, chemists, boot-makers, and others. 
Twenty tons of this powder are sold annually at S3 per 100 pounds. The price 
of the stone, in blocks, is $4 80 per cubic foot, or $40 per ton. In slabs of one 
inch thick, 75 cents per superficial foot. 

Most of that used at San Francisco is brought from near Placorville, El Dorado 
county, Avhere the company owning the factory have a claim containing 3,000 
feet in length on a bed of this material 363 feet wide, and there are ^^extensions'' 
on the same "lead" for miles on both sides of the original claim. Other quanies 
are worked to some extent — one near Sonora, Tuolumne county; another on 
Santa Catalina island, off the southern coast, near Santa Barbara; another on 
the south of the San Jose valley, near the city of San Jose, in Santa Clara 
county J another at Copperopolis, in Calaveras county, &c. 

The cost of transportation from Placerville amounts to $12 per ton for freight 
alone, divided as follows : For hauling by team from quarry to railroad, nine 
and a half miles, $6 per ton; by railroad to Sacramento, 40 miles, $4 per ton; 
to San Francisco by steamer, $2 per ton. 

The California steatite is superior to that obtained in the Atlantic States or 
Europe for many important purposes. It contains neither mica nor iron. The 
Golden City Chemical Works, an extensive establishment, uses steatite to line the 
reiorts for distillation of nitric and sulphuric acids. When commencing opera- 
tions this company imported steatite from New York, which, owing to its con- 
taining mica and iron, was soon destroyed by the fumes of the acids. Induced 
to try some of the California stone, it was found to last for a long time, the acids 
having but little efiect on it. 

Don Abel Stearns states that when he came to California, in 1825, the com- 
mon people cooked their food in vessels made of this stone, which is abundant 



250 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

in all the soatliern counties, and almost as soft as wood. These "crocks" were 
made of various sizes, usually about an inch thick on the sides and two inches 
on the bottom. Such vessels are occasionally found by the surface miners in 
various parts of the State. Parcels of California steatite liave been exported to 
China, where it is used for various purposes. 

The furnaces at the copper-smelting works at Aubrey City, Arizona, are lined 
with steatite taken from Santa Catalina island. 

Clats. — Under this heading will be included materials used in the manufac- 
ture of pottery, glass, colors, &c. 

As already stated, reference can only be made to such jiroducts of the earth 
as are of immediate economical importance. Manj^ minerals of interest and 
prospective value must necessarily be passed without notice, and several articles 
of dissimilar natures are included under one head, for the purpose of seeming 
f^onciseness. 

Clay, suitable for the manufacture of fire-bricks, is found beneath the coal in 
the Mount Diablo coal mines, in Contra Costa county ; at Grass Valley, Nevada 
county ; near Colusa, Colusa county, and at other places in California, Nevada, 
and Oregon. 

Clay suitable for pottery is found near Marsh's creek, six miles west of the 
]\Iount Diablo coal mines ; also at Pratt's Hill, near lone City, Amador county, 
in the foot-hills. 

The manufacture of pottery is carried on to some extent in all the Pacific 
States and Territories. In California there are factories of carthemvare at San 
Francisco ; Antioch, Contra Costa county ; San Antonio, Alameda county; Mon- 
terey, Sacramento, San Jose, Santa Clara county, and at several other places. 
In Nevada there is a pottery near Virginia City, at Avhich brownstone ware is 
made from clay obtained in the vicinity. There are several potteries in Oregon. 

The establishment at Antioch was commenced in 1867. Various kinds 
of earthenware, both coarse and fine, are made here. It gives employment to 
about a dozen moulders and throwers, and a number of laborers. The potters 
'Work by contract, earning from $3 to $7 per day, according to then- industry and 
the description of wares made. 

The cosmopolitan character of the population of California is singularly illus- 
trated by the articles made at this pottery. The French, German, Mexican, 
Russian, Chinese, and other nationalities represented here, each require differ- 
ently-shaped crocks and pots in their culinary and other domestic arrangements. 
The storehouse of the pottery, in which a stock of these goods is kept, presents 
a curious medley of oddly-shaped articles made from designs to suit the tastes 
of all classes of customers. 

Some of the moulded teapots, jugs, and water-pitchers, made in imitation of 
French and English ware, are very handsome, and exhibit the excellence of the 
material used as well as the skill of the workmen. Fancy articles of many 
kinds, cornices and mouldings, crucibles, mufiles, fire-bricks, and tiles, drainage 
pipes, and a variety of other articles used by the local manufactories, are made 
here. 

The clay is obtained from the deposit which underlies the coal at Mount Diablo. 

The pottery at San Francisco is located at the Mission. Stoneware and utensils 
used by refiners, assayers, metallurgists, artists, and manufacturers are made here. 
The clay is obtained from a deposit near Michigan Bar, Sacramento county. 

There is a bed of good fire-clay near Grass Valley, Nevada county. 

Kaolin. — Deposits of this clay are found in Marin, Amador, Tuolumne, 
Calaveras, and several other counties. It exists in many places in the coast 
range, the foot-hills, and the high Sierras. One of the most noted of these 
deposits is at Michigan Bar, Sacramento county. In El Dorado county there is 
a peculiar deposit of pure white clay, formed by the decomposition of the granite 
in the vicinity, which is well adapted to the manufactm'e of porcelain. 



WFaST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 251 

Pipe Clay. — This material has been found near Dutcli Flat, Placer county, 
and at San Jose, Contra Costa county ; also in Tuolumne, Amador, and Calaveras 
counties, and at several other localities in tlie Coast range and foot-hills. 

COLORIXG Earths, &c. — Terra de sienna, umber, red, yellow, and other 
ochreous coloring earths, are found in abundance and purity in many places 
in the Coast range and foot-hills of California. Several deposits have been 
opened. The colors prepared from them are varied and excellent. The limited 
market for their sale, and the importations from the Atlantic States and Europe, 
render their manufacture on a large scale unprofitable, though considerable quan- 
tities are used by the local j^ainters and others. 

The most noted of these ochreous deposits was discovered in 1860, near the 
tomi of Martinez, Contra Costa county. Six well-defined beds of ochre have 
been found in this locality, which range from 10 to 20 feet thiclc, and extend 
from El Humbre creek to San Pablo bay, a distance of six miles. In 1862 
a company was organized to make colors from these materials. A factory, Vi^ith 
a 20-horse power steam engine, for grinding the colors, was erected, and about 100 
tons, of as many as 84 tints, from white to blaclc, embracing a pale buff and 
bright Vermillion, were prepared. But the causes above mentioned rendered the 
enterprise improfitable, and it was abandoned within a year of its commencement. 
Some of the colors made are as bright to-day as when first prepared. 

In 1866 a deposit of teii'a de sienna was found on Gold gulch, about six miles 
from San Lorenzo, Santa Clara county. Yellow ochre is found in the same 
locality. 

There are bodies of coloring earth, red, purple, and white, about five miles 
w est of lone City, Amador county, which form a portion of what is known as 
Pratt's Hill, a promontory extending some distance into the Sacramento valley 
from the foot-hills. 

Beds oi sienna and umber exist in the mountains in the vicinity of San Jose, 
Santa Clara county. Fuller's earth is found in the same locality. 

Red ochre is found on Red Rock, in the harbor of San Francisco, and at other 
places along the coast. 

The above localities are named because the materials found in them have been 
■used and are known to be valuable. But there are many localities where color- 
ing earths, clays, &c., are known to exist, which are omitted because they have 
not been developed. 

Saxds. — Since the introduction of the manufacture of glass at San Francisco, 
the quality of the sand along the coast has been tested in order to obtain a sup- 
ply of such as is best adapted to this business. Much of the sand obtained along 
the shores of the harbor of San Francisco contains too much iron to be used in 
making glass. Near the harbor of Monterey there is an exhaustless supply, free 
from impurities. The sand used by the glass factories is imported chiefly from 
this place. A small quantity is obtained along the bay shore in Alameda county, 
near Oakland. Eight miles north of Santa Cruz there is a hill of white sand 
well adapted to glass-making, being free from iron and manganese. 

The sand dunes, which form a peculiar feature in the scenery at some points 
in the bay of San Francisco, do not contain materials suitable for glass-making. 
The pinky hue of these dunes is imparted by the grains of iron they contain. 
They are not without value nevertheless. Parties owning them make as large 
a revenue from their product as is derived from equal quantities of fertile soil. 
This sand is adapted to buikling purposes, for which it is used. Small vessels 
are employed in canying it to Napa and other counties where siutable sand 
is scarce. Such vessels are chai'ged $5 per cargo. It sells at $1 50 per ton to 
brickmakers and builders in the interior. 

The consumption of sand for glaf s-making is considerable. Two glass works 
at San Francisco make 8250,000 of glassware annually, giving employment to 
aboht 150 men and boys. These works make nearly all the wine bottles, carboys^ 



252 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

demijohns, picldo, spice, and sauce bottles, &:c., used in California. They also 
make lamp chimneys, vials, and chemical glasses. The Pacific Glass Works 
Avas established in 1860, and has been enlarged during 1867. It recently made 
12 retorts of white glass for one of the local chemical works, each of which holds 
20 gallons; and 24 others of 16 gallons each, for another chemical establish- 
ment. These operations show the capacity of the glass works, as well as the 
extent of the chemical preparations made in San Francisco. Glass for the light- 
houses in this district was made at one of these factories. Preparations are nearly 
complete for manufactming window and plate-glass. 

Plumbago, or Blacklead. — This mineral is found in several localities in 
California and Nevada. The largest deposit exists near Sonora, Tuolumne county. 

As the exports from that place have recently assumed some commercial import- 
ance, a description of the principal mine there, and of the processes used to pre- 
pare the lead for market, may be interesting. 

The Eueeka Plumbago Mine was discovered by its present owners in 
1853, while they were working a placer mine in the vicinity. Its value was 
not ascertained, however, till 1865, when a process was discovered by which the 
earthy matter with which the mineral is contaminated near the smiace could be 
separated. Since that discovery, several hundred tons of plumbago have been 
collected, nearly all of which has been exported to England, France, and Ger- 
many, the demand being very limited in California. The returns from the shipments 
to Europe have been satisfactory. The work of development has since been 
carried on successfully. The exports to Liverpool amounted to 300 tons between 
July and September, 1867, the estimated value of which is $100 per ton. There 
is some plumbago at present in course of shipment. The total quantity sent 
from the mine up to 1st of September, 1867, was about 500 tons. 

The Mine. — The lode or vein from which this mineral is obtained extends 
about 4,000 feet in a northeasterly direction, conformable to the general stratifica- 
tion of the coimtry, and ranges from 20 to 40 feet in width. It is considerably 
broken up and mixed with the surrounding earth and rock to the depth of 30 
feet from the surface. Below this it appears to be well defined between walls of 
sandstone and claystone. It dips irregularly to the east, in some places being 
nearl}' vertical, at others Ij'ing at various angles. The northern, or under side, 
rests on a stratum of coarse, pliable, yellow sandstone, which is much broken 
near the surface, but is compact and solid at a depth of 30 feet. The upper 
side is enclosed in a soft clay slate, Avhicli rapidly disintegrates upon exposure to 
the atmosphere, but is sharply defined and hard below. The lode is frequently 
divided by lenticular masses of this clay slate, from a few inches to several feet 
in thickness, which have their longer axis in the same direction as the lode. It 
is also divided by lateral dikes of sandstone, similar in appearance to the under- 
lying wall rock, but harder. The whole formation abuts on the eroded carbon- 
iferous limestone, which forms a peculiar feature in the geology and topography 
of that section of the foot-hills which embraces Tuolumne, Calaveras, and Ama- 
dor counties. 

A shaft sunk on the lode to the depth of 65 feet, revealed the fact that the 
mineral is purer and more solid at that depth than near the surface. At the 
greatest depth reached it was found to be 25 feet wide, and much of it sufficiently 
pure to be shipped without any preparation. 

Peocesses foe Cleaning the Oee. — As stated above, a great portion of the 
mineral taken out below the surface influences is shipped without any jircpara 
tion whatever. Two laborers extract and sack about two tons of the puro 
material daily. Such of it as is contaminated by admixture with the wall rock or 
the enclosed masses of clay slate is wheeled out, washed, and dried before ship- 
ment. All the operations in the mine are can'ied on in ojien cuts ; everything 
taken oiit from the surface downwards being washed that is not pure enough to 
ship without such preparation. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 253 

The Sepakatixg Works. — These consist of reservoirs, settling vats, and 
drying- frames. The chief washing apparatus consists of a sort of airastra, or 
puddling machine, having a bed 20 feet in diameter, with water-tight sides three 
feet high. In the centre of this vat is a stout upright post Avith four arms set at 
light angles, to which are attached, by chains, four wooden frames with oaken 
teeth, like roughly made harrows. The teeth, or pegs, are only intended to stir 
up the materials, which readily separate in water. To gilnd them would render 
the separation difficult, A small water-wheel sets this apparatus in motion, and 
separates about 50 tons daily, the average of which produces 30 per cent, of pure 
graphite, which is separated by passing a small stream of water through the 
machine. The graphite, being finer and lighter than the sand and slate, is held sus- 
pended near the sm'face of the water, which passes out through a shallow spout 
near the top, taking the graphite with it, falling gently into a '' sand box," a long, 
shallow trough, in which any remaining impurity is precipitated. From this 
box the water containing the fine particles of graphite is conveyed by iron pipes 
into large reservoirs capable of holding from 3 to 20 days' production. After 
remaining in these reservoirs for about 24 hours, the graphite subsides to the 
bottom in the form of a black slum, the water above being quite clear ; this is 
let off by means of suitable arrangements for that purpose, till the sediment 
is only sufficiently fluid to flow, when it is run into a series of shallow vats 
arranged conveniently around the reservoirs. An exposure to the sun for 24 
hours in these vats is sufficient to dry it to the consistence of tough clay, when 
it is cut up into iiTCgularly-shaped blocks and placed on wooden staging for a 
few hours and becomes hard and dry, and is then put up in sacks weighing about 
300 pounds each. 

The capacity of the works at present is sufficient to turn out 500 tons per 
month, but it can be indefinitely extended to meet the demand. In addition to 
the puddling machine there are several small separating apparatuses, which are 
worked by hand, producing about five tons of blacklead per week. 

The labor on the mine is perfonned by Chinamen, of whom there are about 
30 employed, who are each paid $S per week without board. 

A great waste of material occurs from the want of experience in working ; 
still the mine is profitable. 

The Costs of PEODUCTioisr. — The owners estimate the costs for excavating, 
washing, drying, and bagging the pure material at $1 per ton. The sacks used 
cost about $2 for each ton. Freight, by teams to Stockton, the head of naviga- 
tion on the San Joaquin river, ranges from $8 to $9 per ton, (the distance is 
about 65 miles;) from Stockton to San Francisco, by steamer, $1 50 per ton; 
by sailing vessels, $1 per ton; from San Francisco to Liverpool, whence all that 
can be prepared is sent, the freight is from $12 50 to $14 per ton, or thus: 

Cost of preparation per ton $1 00 

Bags, per ton 2 00 

Freight to Stockton, per ton 9 00 

Freight to San Francisco, per ton 1 50 

Freight to Liverpool, per ton 14 00 

Commissions, insurance, &c., per ton 12 50 

Total costs - 40 00 

Its market price is about $100 per ton. 

Other Deposits of Graphite. — Other bodies of this mineral are found in 
California and Nevada, but they are all insignificant in value when compared to 
that above described. Among them is one within the limits of the city of Sonora, 
about a mile south from the Eureka mine. This has been worked to some 
extent. It is probably part of the main lode. There is another body of it on 
Jarvis's ranch, near Gold Springs, about four miles north from the Eureka, also 
supposed to be a portion of the main lode. It has not been examined sufficiently 



254 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

to test its extent. Small deposits of tliis mineral are found in Marin, Plumas, 
and Sierra counties. 

A body of metamorphosed limestone exists on the border of Tomales bay, in 
the Coast range, Avhich contains graphite in thin scales. There is a somewhat 
similar deposit near Summit City, Alpine county, among the lofty peaks of the 
Sierra Nevada. 

Another body of plumbago is found near Fort Tejon, at the junction of the 
Coast range and Sierra Nevada. 

The surveyors engaged by the Central Pacific Railroad Company report the 
existence of this mineral in the Trnchee canon, Nevada, also near Crystal peak. 
It has also been found in Storey, Washoe, Ormsby, and Lander counties, in that 
State, but generally of an inferior quality, though but little effort has been made 
to test the quality laelow the surface. 

Importance of GRArniTE ik" the Arts. — Reference to some of the pur- 
poses for vv'hicli this mineral is used in the arts and manvfactures will exhibit the 
influence a full suppl}^ of it will have on these important branches of industry. 

The manufacture of blacklead pencils gives employment to thousands of per- 
sons in Europe. Millions of these indispensable articles are annually imported. 
No suitable material for their manufacture has heretofore been discovered in our 
own dominion. 

Crucibles made of this material are indispensable for melting gold and silver, 
because they withstand the high temperature necessary to melt these metals, and 
do not absorb the metal. It is also used in tho manufacture of gunpowder. 
By coating the grains with graphite they are not only jiolished, but their explo- 
sive power is greatly increased. Good blasting-powder contains nearly one-tenth 
of its weight in graphite. 

It is also of importance in the art of electrotyping, being one of the best known 
conductors of electricity for that purpose. 

It is employed as an anti-friction lor the bearings of heavy machinery. 

Also, for covering the moulds for iron, brass, and bronze castings, imparting 
a smooth surface to these metals, and for numerous other purposes not necessary 
to particidarize. 

So much importance is attached to the suj)ply of this mineral in Europe, that 
in 1860, when a Mr. Brockedon invented a process by which the powder from 
the European mines was solidified by hydraulic pressure, he was hailed as a 
public benefactor, and was honored by special marks of distinction from the 
highest scientific associations and many of the crowned heads of Europe. 

The plumbago obtained in California is so much finer and purer than that 
prepared in Europe, that a demand for it has already been created. 

When it is taken into consideration that the same pressure (50,000 tons) used 
to solidify the powder of graphite will also solidify iron filings, pulverized 
anthracite, and other impiu'ities, it will be perceived that such a process affords 
a convenient means for adulteration ; while the simple but effective process used 
in California leaves the graphite pure. This mineral will probably become 
in time an article of export. 

Salt. — Next to coal, no mineral is more necessary to the prosperity of a State 
than salt. Of this article the States and Territories on the Pacific coast possess 
an abundance. Bat for the high price of capital and labor, and the difficulties 
of transportation, it might be produced as claeaply here as in other parts of the 
Union. 

The following statement will convey an idea of tho number of salt deposits 
on this coast and the extent of their development. 

Salt in California. — The product at present reaches about 25,000 tons 
annuall}', about three-fourths of which is made in Alameda county, on the eastern 
side of the bay of San Francisco, Avhere there are works for concentrating and 
evaporating the waters which cover the marsh land in that locality. These works 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 255 

extend from Centreville to the San Lorenzo creek, a distance of fifteen miles. 
They are the property of 17 companies, and some individuals. The aggregate 
capital invested is about ^1,200,000. One hundred laborers are emploj-ed in the 
business during the season. The works are such as are usually constructed for 
obtaining salt from sea water, and do not require special description. Till recently 
•ihe salt collected was of an inferior quality, but experience has effected an 
improvement. There are six steam mills in San Francisco, chiefly employed in 
cleaning and preparing it for domestic purposes. The capital invested in this 
branch of the business is about .$250,000. These mills during 1866 ground and 
prepared 24,-500 tons of bay salt, which will probably be exceeded during 1867. 

The works commenced in 1800. The importation of foreign salt has since 
fallen off. The total imports for 1866 did not exceed 7,000 tons, about 5,000 
of which were from Carmen island. Gulf of California, and 2,000 from Liverpool, 
which consisted of a refined article for table and dairy use. The quantity imported 
from England in 1867 is less than in 1866, in consequence of the local salt makers 
l^reparing a better article w-hich they sell at a lower price. 

Salt Avorks are established in San Bernardino county, the products of which 
were formerly sent to the San Francisco market. But the cheapness of the bay 
salt and the costs of transportation from so great a distance have driven it out 
of this market, though it is used in the southern counties. 

In K67 works for collecting salt Avere erected near San Rafael, Santa Clara 
county. 

Saline springs and marshes exist in various parts of the State, from which salt 
is obtained ; but as it is consumed in the locality, no estimate of the amount can 
be made. 

A spring about 14 miles from Los Angeles yields a good salt, shipments of 
which were formerly sent to San Francisco. Five hundred tons of it were received 
in 1866, but for the reasons given in the case of San Bernardino, it is now 
unprofitable to transport it so great a distance. 

A deposit of salt is found in the Tehachepi valley, Tulare county, from which 
a small quantity was obtained during the summer of 1867. 

Salt beds and saline springs are found in the valley of Kern river, Tulare 
county, 10 miles from the month of the Canada de las Uvas. The country for 
miles is impregnated with salt. Holes dug in the ground during the wet season 
fill rapidly with brine, which deposits a coating of salt when dried dming the 
summer. . 

The consumption of salt has increased in California during the last four years, 
owing to the demand created by new manufactures. The cod fishery in the Ochotsk 
sea, commenced in 1864, requires a supply of the coarse article. The vessels 
engaged in this fishery in 1865 cured 587 tons of fish ; in 1866, 960 tons, and in 
1867 will probably cure 1,000 tons. 

The increase in pork and beef packing has increased the consumption of salt. 

The success of the chlorination process for working auriferous sulphurets has 
also increased the consumption, the chlorine used being generated from this mine- 
ral. The chlorination works in the vicinity of Grass valley, Nevada county, 
consume about 1,000 tons per annum. 

Farmers consume it as a fertilizer, for Avhich it is well adapted on light, gravelty, 
or heavy loamy soils intended for wheat. They also use it in baling hay, &c. 

The increased production of butter and cheese has materially increased the 
demand for refined salts. The returns of 42 counties for 1866 show a production 
of 2,250,000 pounds of butter. The product of cheese in 27 counties amounted 
to 1,601,782 pounds. The product of both butter and cheese will probably be 
one-half larger in 1867 than in 1866. These figures show the importance of the 
salt trade, and the reasons for predicting its future increase. 

Salt in Oregon is prepared from brine obtained from springs, of Avhich there 
are numbers in the Willamette and Umpqua valleys, and at other places. Salt 



256 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

works are located in Douglas county, in tlic Umpqua valley, wliicli for several 
years past have produced from 700 to 1,000 pounds of salt dail}' during the sum- 
mer season. But the distance from Portland, the chief market, prevents the 
owners from deriving any advantage from that market. A cheaper supply is 
furnished from the works erected in the lower Willamette valley. 

The Willamette Salt Works are located about 13 miles from Portland, 
half way between that city and St. Helens, and half a mile from the Ijanks of 
the Willamette slough. A range of low hills at this locality extend nearly east 
and west for about 20 miles, at the base of which are the salt springs. From 
one of them the brine used by the works is obtained. By means of a single fur- 
nace this spring yielded from 600 to 700 pounds of salt daily when the ^vorks 
were commenced ; but for several months past it has yielded 4,000 pounds per 
clay. ^ 

This salt is pure and white. Samples of it analyzed by Professor W. P. Blake 
were found to be free from lime and magnesia, making it peculiarly adapted for 
use in preparing butter, fish, and meats. 

Mr. Blake took samples to the Paris exhibition, where it was admired for its 
crystallization, purity and color. 

Springs in Jackson county produce about 10,000 pounds annually of a similar 
quality of salt. 

Beds of rock salt are reported to exist near the base of Mount Jeffereon, in 
the Cascade range of mountains. 

Salt in Nevada. — There is probably no portion of the globe so abundantly 
supplied with salt as the State of Nevada. Thousands of acres of its surface 
are covered with saline marshes and l)eds of salt, and there are lofty mountains 
within her borders composed of rock salt of the purest quality. A detailed 
account of these deposits will be found in that part of the report relating to the 
miscellaneous resources of Nevada. 

Salt in Arizona, somewhat similar to that at Pahranagat, has been discov- 
ered near the Muddy river, about 100 miles from the Big bend of the Colorado. 
This body of rock salt is stated to be nearly a mile wide, several miles in length, 
and nearly 400 feet high. 

Salt in Utah. — The Great Salt lake, in this Territory, is a prolific source 
of this mineral. Its waters are more saline than those of any similar lake known. 

Carmen Island Salt is obtained from Carmen island, near the harbor of 
Loreto, Lower California, about 1,800 miles from San Francisco. This bed of 
salt is three miles in length by half a mile wide, and is the property of the Mexi- 
can government, who supply it to vessels at a stipulated price. It has recently 
been leased or purchased by the Ilolliday Steamship Company. It is similar in 
quality and appearance to that found at Sand Springs, Nevada. Like it the 
supply is perpetual. Every excavation fills with a fresh deposit in a few days. 
It is also solid, and has a pinky tint Avhen taken out of the pits, but soon crum- 
bles and whitens. California imports from 3,000 to 5,000 tons per annum. 

The Price of Salt has greatly declined since the establishment of the works 
in Alameda county. The present prices are : Liverpool, stored, •$25 to #27 per 
ton; CanTien island, #12 to $16 per ton; Bay, $8 to $13 per ton. These prices 
are an advance of 20 per cent, on Carmen island and Bay during 1866, the 
f;xlling ofl" in importations and increase in the demand having enhanced the value. 

Asphaltum. — This mineral is abundant in California, but has not been found 
in any of the other States or Territories on the Pacific coast. Though generally 
admitted to be of the same nature and of the same origin as petroleum, and 
usually found in combination Avith that substance, it is different in appearance, 
and is applied to different purposes. As one of the mineral products of the coast, 
it is classed under a separate heading. 

The principal deposits of asphaltum are found in Santa Barbara county. It 
is seen along the coast from the Kayamos river, the line of San Luis Obispo 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 257 

county, to tlie boundary line of Los Angeles. In this distance it assumes a 
variety of forms — hard as rods, soft as putty, oozing from the cliifs in lazy streams 
like molten pitch, or flowing clear and liquid like oil. There are reasons for 
believing that a deposit underlies the country embraced within bounds above 
given, and extending from Buena Vista lake to the sea. A spnng of it bubbles 
up in the ocean several miles from the shore, opposite the northern end of the 
island of Santa Cruz. 

Near Carpentaria solid blocks of it lie piled up on the sea beach, while near 
the Dos Pueblos ranch it is found as glassy and brittle as rosin. Near the mis- 
sion of San Buenaventura the earth for many acres is covered with it in various 
stages of hardness. Deposits of a similar character are seen in the vicinity of 
the Santa Inez river, and in the valley of the Kayamos, to the eastward, and 
near Buena Vista lake, to the south. 

The most accessible deposit is on the Galeta ranch, about nine miles from 
Santa Barbara. The residents of this part of the coast have supplied themselves 
with materials for roofing their houses and paving their streets from this deposit 
for the past 50 years, and quantities are annually sent to San Francisco for the 
same and other purposes. 

It is estimated that the asphaltum here covers 300 acres, and extends some 
distance under the sea. Masses of it are seen enclosed in the rocks which form 
the cliffs along that portion of the coast. In some places it is quarried and car- 
ried in boats to vessels anchored at a convenient distance. At others it is gath- 
ered up along the beach, when it is loaded, in the following manner : The vessel 
waiting for a cargo is anchored some 300 feet from the shore. A hawser is fast- 
ened to the land ; on this a largo block is riven, by means of which a flat-bottomed 
boat is hauled to within fifty feet of the shore, just far enough to keep it out of 
the surf which breaks continuously on the open coast. The party on shore, 
having collected two or three tons, pile it on a cart with a single pair of high 
wheels, when three or four yoke of oxen, trained for the purpose, haul it through 
the surf to the boat, into which it is shifted. It sometimes happens that the 
cattle employed in this business are completely submerged by the rolling bil- 
lows, but they appear used to it, and stand patiently up to their ears in the salt 
water. The boat, when loaded, is drawn to the vessel by means of the block 
on the hawser. This is a crude way of perfonning such work, and will soon be 
abandoned, as increase of business lias induced some parties to construct a wharf 
of sufiicient length to enable vessels to come alongside to load. 

There are deposits of hard asphaltum at points between the rivers Gaviota and 
Buenaventura, a mile or two from the sea beach ; also on the ranches of Laguna, 
Todos Santos, Los Alamos, and others, ranging from 30 to 50 miles from the 
sea ; but none of these are used as a som'ce of supply at present. 

1'he Pacific Asphaltum Company have a quany of this mineral six miles from 
Los Angeles, from which shipments are made to San Francisco. The asphaltum 
is hard and black, requhing to be l>lasted with powder to break out sufiicient to 
supply the demand. In July, 1867, it presented a face 30 feet in depth by 75, 
feet in length, very compact and of good quality. 

Previous to 1867 most of the asphaltmn used at San Francisco was brought 
from Santa Barbara county, the rest from Los Angeles. Recently considerabte 
quantities have been received from San Buenaventura. The latter article sells ! 
at .S17 per ton when that from other places is ofi"ering at $15 per ton. 

About 2,000 tons are annually used in San Francisco for making sidewalks 
and roofs of buildings, purposes for which it is well adapted when properly pre- 
pared. There are a dozen firms in San Francisco engaged in this business. It 
afibrds employment to about 120 men. It was introduced as a material for pave- 
ment in San Francisco in 1855. At the present time the principal thorough- 
fares have the sidewalks laid with it. Some of it, after a trial of 10 years, 
exposed to a variable climate, is still hard and smooth. It is also used for other , 
17 



258 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

purposes, and its consumption is increasing. The Spring Valley "Water Com- 
pany use it for coating their pipes, lining their reservoirs, &c., for which it is 
better adapted than cement or paint. 

Many of the springs on this coast deposit asphaltum ; others exude petrolei.oi. 
None of the petroleum springs or lagoons north of Cape Mendocino produce 
asphaltum. Some of the springs in Santa Barbara and other southern counties 
do not deposit asphaltum, though in the midst of those that do. The petroleum 
spring on the Canada Larga is an illustration of this latter class. 

The deposits of asj)haltum in California are sufficient to supply a very large 
demand. The present price (August, 1867) for asphaltum delivered at San 
Francisco is from $15 to 620 per ton. At the quarries and along the coast it 
may be had from $3 to $5 per ton. 

During the summer of 1867 quames of asphaltum were opened near Alviso, 
10 miles north of San Jose and three miles from Santa Clara, in Santa Clara 
county. Both of these j^oints are convenient to the line of the San Francisco 
and San Jose railroad. 

Petroleum. — Differences of opinion between scientific authorities respecting 
the mode of occurrence, quality, and quantity of petroleum in California have 
impaired public confidence in this resource. Many persons have invested time 
and money in searching for "oil" in localities where it does not exist, because 
experts said it would be found there ; while others have permitted good petro- 
leum to run to waste because experts said it would not yield oil. It is not 
intended here to take sides with either the ''oil" or "no oil" party. The dis- 
cussion and its results are only refeiTcd to in order to shoAV why this product has 
not been more extensively developed. 

Mr. Gregory Yale, in his valuable work on Titles to Mining rilaims in Cali- 
fornia, says: 

According to the results arrived at by the State geological survey, there are two questions 
settled in regard to bitvmiinous oils : tirst, that with the facilities and conditions which now 
exist, asphaltum cannot be profitably used for the manufacture of burning or lubricating oil ; 
and, secondly, that no fluid oil exists on the surface in sufficient quantity to pay for collect- 
ing in a large way. 

Professor Whitney says the question resolves itself into this : 

" It is probable that flowing wells will be struck by boring, as in the oil regions of Pennsyl- 
vania, and that these will deliver a liquid oil or petroleum in sufficient quantities to take up 
the business and carry it on in a large way. The question, then, whether the geological 
structure and conditions in the Coast ranges south of San Francisco bay are such as to jus- 
tify a large expenditure of money, in the expectation of striking copiously-flowing wells by 
boring to a considerable depth, is discussed and answered in the negative upon the following 
geological facts : 

"The great bituminous slate formation, of tertiary age, extends through California from 
Los Angeles as far north as Cape Mendocino. No doubt it contains bituminous matter 
enough to supply the world for an indefinite period, could this be made available without 
expense. But it will be observed that the strata of this formation, all through the region 
north of the bay of San Francisco, are turned up at a high angle in this respect, occupying 
a very different position from the oil-producing beds in the eastern States. There the strata 
in which the petroleum is found in abundance, and in which all the wells which yield any 
considerable quantity of this material are sunk, are horizontal or inclined at a very moderate 
angle. Nowhere is oil obtained in large quantity where the stratum in which it originates is 
exposed to the air by being turned up on edge, or is only covered by light and porous accu- 
mulations of detritus. The reason of this is very evident : the oil is slowly elaborated or 
brought together in a certain bed or set of beds, and unless confined in some way so that it 
cannot escape, it must be forced to the surface by capillary attraction, hydrostatic pressure, 
or that of gas generated at the same time, when it escapes and is lost ; to allow it to accumu- 
late, there must be an impervious covering of rock over the oil stratum proper, which will 
confine the fluid material within limits, and allow it to accumulate away from the influence 
of the air. For this reason a large flow of oil on the surface cannot be considered as a favor- 
able indication for boring wells, and much less can heavy accumulations of asphaltum be so 
regarded. If, then, flowing wells are struck in California, it is more likely to be in those 
portions of the region north of the bay of San Francisco where the bituminous slates are less 
disturbed and not set upon edge, and where they may perliaps be covered by formations of 
later age, which will act as covers and receptacles for the elaborated oil. In the Coast ranges 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 259 

south of the bay of Monterey, as the bituminous shales are everywhere turned up on edge 
and have no cover of impervious rock, the inference is unavoidable that flowing wells, or at 
least those delivering any considerable quantity of liquid petroleum, cannot be expected to 
be got by boring to any depth ; the probabilities, at least, are decidedly against it. While, 
therefore, we would not object to a reasonable and prudent expenditure of small amounts to 
test the question whether fluid oil can be obtained in California in sufficient quantity to pay 
a moderate profit on a bona fide investment, we would caution all against paying to specu- 
lators an immense premium for the privilege of making these experiments on lands which 
they have secured for a small sum, and where there are no better, if as good, chances of suc- 
cess as on many other tracts which have not yet fallen into the hands cf these monster stock 
companies. 

"Whether the asphaltum of California is derived from thickening or oxidation, by exposure 
to the atmosphere of exactly the same substance, chemically speaking, as that which is called 
petroleum in Pennsylvania, is a matter of chemical investigation. In the light of the facts 
and considerations just presented it does not appear to be economically important that it 
should be settled at once. How large a portion of the numerous hydrocarbons which 
are originally contained in the bituminous slates of California evaporate on exposure, and 
how many of them become oxidized into asphaltum, is a delicate subject for investigation. 
From the well-known fact tliat there are few, if any, deposits of asphaltum or asphaltic mate- 
rial existing on the surhice in the oil region of Pennsylvania, although the oil itself appears 
to have been escaping at numerous points for an indefinite period of time, it appears to be 
probable, at least, that the original chemical constitution of the mass of bituminous matter 
in the oil-bearing shales of pateozoic age is difi'erent from that material which occurs in the 
tertiary rocks of California, and of Avhich at least much the largest part does, on exposure, 
become consolidated into a hard and brittle material, which certainly no longer contains 
more than a very small percentage of light oil." 

These conclusions have met with some opposition, which seems to resolve itself into a 
question of fact as to the existence of petroleum in small quantities, which is not denied, 
and does not refute the conclusion that it is useless to pursue an enterprise which will not 
prove pecuniarily profitable. 

That petroleum exists in California is no longer a matter of doubt. It has 
been obtained at various places from Los Angeles to Humboldt, and merchanta- 
ble oit has been made from several localities within this range, including San 
Mateo, Santa Clara, Santa Barbara, San Bemardino, Colusa, Lake, Napa, Tulare, 
Humboldt, Kern, and several other counties. The quantity available will prob- 
ably bo sufficient to supply the demand of the coast. The quality undoubtedly 
diflers from that prepared in the Atlantic States; also the means for obtaining 
the crude material. Experiments made with oil from different sources show that 
it differs in composition from the eastern oils in containing a larger per centum of 
carboi . It burns with less brilliancy in ordinary lamps. With lamps so aiTanged 
as to give an increased supply of oxj^gen by creating a larger current of air 
through the chimney, it jiroduces as bright and white a light as the oils from 
Pennsylvania, Virginia, or Canada. 

The excess of carbon increases the value of petroleum for fuel, a use for which it 
is now attracting attention. In a country where fuel is dear an abundant supply 
of petroleum of this character becomes an important resource. 

The Composition of California Coal Oil. — In 1864, 20 gallons of crude 
oil from the Buena Vista springs, in Tulare county, were sent to Mr. C. Hum- 
phi'ey, of the Chemical College, London, to be analyzed. In his report Mr. 
Humphrey stated that it contained a small per cent, of illuminating and 80 per 
cent, of lubricating oil. *' If the materials sent," adds the report, *' were in their 
natural state, (which they were,) they are a most extraordinary product, and 
unlike anything that has been found in the United States or in Europe." 

One hundred pounds of crude material analyzed by Mr. Benoist, a French 
chemist, gave the following returns : 

Material of the density of 72° Baumg, ornaphtha 7^ 

Material of the density of 65° Baum6, or benzine 7i 

Material of the density of 44° Baume, or illuminating oil 37^ 

Material of the density of 10° Baum6, or lubricating oil 37^ 

Asphaltum , 10 

100 



260 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

In 1866 the crude materials obtained from tbe Buena Vista springs yielded 50 
per cent, lubricating and 40 per cent, illuminating oil. When obtained from 
the pits it was of the specific density of 20° to 25° Baume. 

A remarkable difference exists in the density of this material when obtained 
at different depths from the surface. On the surface it averages 18°; at 20 feet 
below, 22°; at 30 feet, 26°. The residuum in the stills after extracting the oil 
furnished fuel for future operations. 

A sample of 30 ounces of crude oil from Mattole valley, Humboldt county, 
analyzed by Professor Rowlandson, a member of the English Royal Geograph- 
ical Society, gave the following result : 

Ounces. 

lUuminating oil 23 

Lubricating oil 4. 25 

Kesiduum ~- — 2.75 



30 



Upwards of 90 per cent, of merchantable materials. 

There is a marked difference in the composition of the petroleum found in the 
northern and southern portions of California. Under the head of asphaltum it 
has been mentioned that the northern petroleum deposits no asphaltum, while 
the latter mineral is abundant in the southern counties. So also under the head 
of coal, the difference in the quality of that mineral in the north and south is 
refeiTcd to. Without entering into speculations as to the cause, the subject is 
of some interest to science. It is generally conceded that there is an a ffiuity 
between coal and petroleum. 

All the crude petroleum found in the coast range south of San Francisco is 
nearly identical in composition, though varying from 16° to 30° Baume, and 
nearly all of it deposits asphaltum. 

That found north of the Golden Gate is generally of a higher specific gravity 
and deposits little or no asphaltuui. 

There is no paraffine in most of the southern oil, while that from the north is 
prolific in this substance. The oil from the south contains a per centum of nitro- 
genous matter which is unusual in hydrocarbons. Some of it, when kept in 
open vessels in a warm room for a few weeks, generates a peculiar kind of worm, 
which would be remarkable if this oil be of a purely mineral character, as stated 
by the French chemist Berthelot. 

Professor Silliman, in an article on this subject, read before the California 
Academy of Natural Sciences, in April 1867, stated the following interesting 
particulars on the subject : 

That he had made the experiments with a sauiple of surface oil obtained in Santa Barbara 
county, consisting of parcels from 5 to 10 gallons each, of dark, almost black material, which 
at ordinary temperatures resembled coal tar. Its density at 60° Fahrenheit ^yas 13|^ I3aum6, 
retaining a considerable quantity of water mechanically entangled, without any odor of sul- 
phohydric acid, usually very decided in such surface oils. Distilled to dryness, it produced: 

Oil having a density of 0. 890 to 0.900 69.82 

Coke, water, and loss 30. 18 

100.00 

m one tnal, the product was divided as follows : 

Oil of density of 290 Baum6, at 52° 50.00 

Oil of a density of 24 Baum(^, at58o 17.05 

Coke, water, and loss 32. 05 

100. 00 



The coke was large in quantity, strong, and would make good fuel, resembling gas-house 
coke. The odor of ammonia was strong towards the close of distillation. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 261 

The illuminating oils obtained by these experiments, after treatment with sulphuric acid 
and soda in the usual manner, acquired an agreeable odor, a light straw color, and bunied as 
well in a lamp as good commercial oil. 

No paraffiue could be detected by refrigerating the heavy oils in a mixture of salt and ice. 
It is, no doubt, the absence of this body from the series of products obtained from the Call 
forn'a oils generally, that accounts for the illuminating oil burning well at a density consid- 
erably below the commercial standard for oil obtained from Pennsylvania petroleum — a dif- 
ference enhanced also by the absence of any considerable quantity of light naphtha. The 
lubricating oils of this series, likewise free from paraffins, retain on this account their flu- 
idity at low temperatures. 

The light oils obtained in these experiments corresponded respectively to 12. 96, 14. 56, and 
18. 96 per centum of the crude oil. The total commercial products were about 60 per cent, 
of the crude body, which likewise yielded sufficient coke to supply the fuel required in the 
distillations. 

The excess of carbon in the heavier hydro-carbons of California suggests the probability 
of their having a value in their crude state as fuel. For this purpose they may be employed 
to give cohesion to coke, or fine coal, or any other cheap form of carbon, as has already been 
done with coal tar in England. 

The Maistufactuee of Coal Oil in Califoenia. — Small quantities of 
coal oil have been made in this State for many years. The materials in some 
localities requii'o but little preparation for illuminating prnposes. Between 1865 
and 1867, Hay ward & Coleman, a firm in the oil business in San Francisco, 
made 40,000 gallons of illuminating oil fi-om springs of petroleum near Santa 
Barbara; but suspended operations in June, 1867, because imported oil was sell- 
ing at 54 to 55 cents per gallon, a price so low as to render the manufactui-o 
unprofitable, owing to the high price of cases to contain it, transportation, and 
labor. 

These gentlemen have expended capital and labor in efforts to render valuable 
the California petroleum. After many experiments to test its adaptability for 
fuel, they state that, although it costs $5 per barrel to bring it from the springs 
to San Francisco, it is cheaper as fuel than coal or wood. It saves expense of 
hauling and splitting, and of feeding the furnace ; it makes no ashes to be carted 
away ; causes no waste in lighting or extinguishing the fire ; while with wood or 
coal there is waste of time and material in these operations. The heat is under 
control, and may be easily regulated. The operations of this firm have been 
carried on for a year, with petroleum as fuel, for distillation and driving their 
engines, thus establishing the practicability of its use. 

A number of establishments in the southern counties also use it for nuining 
machinery. A gentleman interested in the oil business has recently perfected an 
apparatus for biu'ning it for domestic purposes. He has made application for a 
patent. This invention it is said performs the duty satisfactorily, burning the 
crude material without smoke or offensive odor. 

Stanford Brothers have also expended capital and labor in efforts to manufac- 
ture oil from California petroleum, and have succeeded so far as to make oil ; but 
not with profit. Up to July, 1867, this firm had made 100,000 gallons of illu- 
minating oil, and a nearly equal quantity of lubricating, and have been making 
about 20,000 gallons of illuminating per month, since. Their works are still in 
operation. 

For reasons stated, much of this oil is prepared to a standard density of 35° 
Baume, which causes it to burn better, and exempts it from the tax of 20 cents 
per gallon levied on coal oils of 36°. 

This firm purchase the crude oils from several localities, but obtain their chief 
supply from tunnels and pits near San Buenaventura. The high cost of vessels 
to contain the oil when made ; of transportation and interest on capital, and the 
low prices itiling for the imported article, are impediments to the successful devel 
opment of this resource. 

It costs six cents per gallon for second-hand cans. New cans would cost 15 
cents per gallon. Each 40-gallon barrel of crude material costs $3, or 7j cents 



262 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

per gallon for transportation from the springs to the refining works. As the crude 
petroleum only averages 45 per cent, of marketable oil, each gallon of such oil 
costs 21 cents without the expense of refining, or the 20 cents for tax, or any 
allowance for commissions, loss, interest on capital, or other incidental expenses. 
For these reasons the interest is in a depressed condition. It is unprofitable to 
make oil when the imported article is less than 60 cents per gallon. 

The material used by Stanford Brothers, in addition to the illuminating oil, 
produces about 25 per cent, of lubricating oil, which if it could be sold at 25 cents 
per gallon Avould make the other branch of the business profitable. But thero 
is no market for it, owing to a prejudice against its use. The consumption ol 
lubricating oil in California amounts to 500,000 gallons annually, including castor 
and China nut oils. That of illuminating oils reaches 900,000 gallons annually. 
Of course this creates an important trade for importers. 

The Buena Vista Company made about 4,000 gallons of illuminating oil at then- 
works near the springs, and other companies made more or less. Nearly a dozen 
companies had stills in operation for a short time. Mr. Stott has made about 5,000 
gallons at San Francisco. Mr. Williams, of the same place, has also made about 
the same quantity. Altogether it is safe to estimate the quantity of California 
made coal oil at 175,000 gallons. The capacity of the stills for making it is 
sufficient to turn out 100,000 gallons per month. 

The idea that the manufacture of California petroleum may yet be made pro- 
fitable is not abandoned. A company was organized at San Francisco as recently 
as September, 1867, with a capital of $1,250,000, for the pm'pose of working 
petroleum and asphaltum deposits. 

The Mode of Occueeence. — The oils of California do not ^'occm-" in the 
same manner as those found in the Atlantic States. Here there are no flowing 
wells, nor is it probable any will be found. Some of the wells sunk in the Mat- 
tole valley, Humboldt county, reached the depth of 1,166 feet without obtaining 
n flow, though sunk in a district overflowing with oil on the surface. Other 
wells of nearly equal depth have been sunk in other counties, through various 
formations, with similar results. 

Without entering into speculations as to the cause of the abundance of oil 
on the surface, and its deficiency below, it is enough to know that oil exists in 
sufiicient quantity. There are many natural wells or springs of it in the Coast 
range, some forming pools of oil; others showing but little more than "indica- 
tions" of that material. From some of these springs petroleum fl.r»ws in a black, 
viscid stream, like tar ; from others, clear, colorless, and comparativel}' pure. In 
exceptional instances it has been used without preparation in common coal oil 
lamps. At some places the springs are widely separated ; at others, scores of 
them are found within the space of an acre. Generally the single springs pro 
duce the most petroleum. About some are large deposits of asphaltum, while 
none of this mineral is seen within miles of others, though the oil has been flow- 
ing for centuries, and its com'se can be traced for miles along the surface. 

Where a record has been kept the flow of petroleum has been larger during 
the night than the day, and more abundant in winter than summer. Usually 
where petroleum is found there are salt springs and alkaline waters. 

Reference to the oil w^ells of San Fernando district, Los Angeles county, will 
convey a general idea of the oil formation in the Coast range. 

This district is situated 30 miles northwest from Los Angeles. The forma- 
tion lieB in a range of mountains extending in a course nearly east and west 
The central stratum is shale, which seems to contain the most oil, and incline, 
north and south at an acute angle, the top being from 150 to 200 feet wide, slightly 
depressed, and covered by a stratum of sandstone of variable thickness. This 
shale is bounded by a similar sandstone, alternating with thin seams of limestone 
and hard conglomerate. At the base of the mouutams the formation is hard 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 263 

sand and limestone, both containing marine fossils-of a recent era. These moun- 
tains reach a height of about 700 ieet above the local river beds, and about 4,000 
or 5,000 feet above the sea level. 

The oil stratum varies in -width, being in some places a mile or more, as in 
Rice caiion, in others only a few hundred feet ; but is continuous for many miles. 
In the gulches and canons, where the water has eroded the formation and exposed 
the shale to the action of the atmosphere, the oil is found oozing out. The water 
in the district is unfit for use. Oil is also found on the summit of the mountains, 
which are crested with shale, being carried through the shale by capillary attrac- 
tion. At some places beds of "brea," or asphaltum, have accumulated, where the 
oil has evaporated. The rocks, forming beds of streams which dry up during the 
summer, are covered with a complex allialine efflorescence. 

The manner of collecting the oil in this district is bj^ sinking pits in the vicinity 
of the natural springs, in which oil and water collect. The oil is skimmed off 
by hand, each pit of 20 by 20 yielding about two baiTcls per day. When col- 
lected it is dark green in color, and about as thick as sirup in summer, and con- 
tains about 80 per cent, of oily matter, mechanically combined with 20 per cent. 
of water, from which it is difficult to separate it. 

In other places tunnels are run into the mountain. The oil di'ips from the 
slate when it is cut through. 

The Buena Vista oil claim is located on a belt of bituminous shale from two 
to three miles wide, and from 30 to 40 miles long, running parallel with the Coast 
range,. near Buena Vista lake, Tulare county. From this formation petroleum 
exudes at a number of places. 

The oil obtained was the seepage of one of these springs collected in pits dug 
for the purpose. These pits are generally 20 feet deep, five feet wide by eight 
feet long, each producing about 300 gallons of crude materials in 24 hours, con- 
taining 40 per cent, of light, and 50 per cent, of lubricating, or heavy oil. The 
claim was worked from February, 18G4, till April, 1867, when, owing to the low 
price of oil, it was found unprofitable to prepare it for the San Francisco market, 
and the local demand was fully supplied. 

A notable difference exists in the density of the oil from this place when obtained 
at but slightly different depths from the surface, ranging from 18*^ Baume to 22° 
at 20 feet, 22° and 26° at 30 feet. 

Similar sm'face deposits are met with in nearly all the valleys of the Coast range. 

It will be seen from this imperfect sketch, that although not occurring in the 
same manner as the earth oils of other countries, the California oils are never- 
theless valuable for illuminating purposes. The cost of production is the mate- 
rial point which must govern the development of many natural resources of this 
State. It is a question that must bo candidly met. So far as petroleum is con- 
cerned, it must be acknowledged the facts are against us. But cheap labor and 
increased fiicilities for transportation will naturally follow an increase of popula- 
tion. With capital and labor as cheap as in New York or Em-ope, California 
petroleum w^ould be a source of wealth to the country. At present it is an unpro- 
fitable resource. 

QuiCKSiLA^'EE. — The New Almadex Mikes were so fully described in the 
preliminary report, that a brief reference to their present condition will be sufii- 
cient hero. 

The production of quicksilver in these mines has fallen off nearly one-half 
during the present year owing to various causes, the chief of which is, the limited 
demand for the article as compared with former years, and the increased produc- 
tion from other sources. A large quantity has accumulated in the markets of the 
world, estimated by some as high as 100,000 flasks. The mines of Almaden, in 
Spain, have famished a large proportion of this supply ; and the production has 
been considerable in Austria and South America. 



264 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



The product of the New Almaden mines from January to August, 1867, mclu- 
sive, has been as iollows : , 



Flasks. 

January 2, 270 

February.--- 2,195 

March 2,338 

April 2,1G9 

May ,2,160 

June ^-5,000 



Flasks. 

July l,!i3J 

Auf^ust 2,000 



Making 17,063 



The present condition of the principal mine is poor, both in the quality and 
quantity of its ores; its future is uncertain, and any conjectures in regard to it 
Avould be valueless. 

The New Idria Mine yielded during the six months ending June 30, 1867, 
as follows : 



January . . 
February. 

March 

April 

May 



FlaskP. 
690 
859 
915 
879 
829 



June. 



Flasks. 
852 



Total 5,014 



The Redington Mine, of which no description has heretofore been given, 
(sometimes called the XLCR, as named by the original locators,) is situated at 
Knoxville, Lake county, 55 miles northwest of Napa, from which point the pro- 
duct is shipped. It was located in March, 1861, but the locators having neither 
the necessary skill nor capital, leased the mine for a term of years. Work was 
commenced thereon in the spring of 1862, and energetically prosecuted, with 
various vicissitudes ever since, its product up to January, 1867, aggregating 9,009 
flasks of 76J pounds each, selling for a total of $344^594. 

Up to January, 1867, the ore was reduced in retorts, but at that time there 
was completed a large and expensive furnace and condenser, constructed of a 
stone peculiar to the region, wliich proves itself quite the equal of the best English 
fire-brick in its capacity to resist the action of fire. By the aid of this improved 
means of reduction, the product has been largely increased, aggregating in the 
nine months from January, 1867, to October 1, 1867, 5,145 liasks of 76j pounds 
each. A second furnace of equal capacity with that now used, and having many 
improvements never before introduced in the construction of quicksilver reducing 
furnaces, has just been completed, and the product is hereafter expected not to 
be less than 1,000 flasks per month. The mine is situated in a hill, and is worked 
by a tunnel about 700 feet long, not counting the numerous side drifts. 

Various shafts have been sunk from these side drifts, and trouble being expe- 
rienced from water, an artesian bore of seven inches diameter was sunk on the 
hillside before the mouth of the tunnel, to the depth of 250 feet. In this was 
placed a pump of five and a half inches diameter, and this, though generally 
looked upon at first as a very doubtful experiment, is found eflfectively and per- 
manently to free the whole mine from water, thus saving the great expense of a 
pumping shaft. 

The mine employs 150 men, has built and maintains 20 miles of road, and 
from its isolated position is compelled to create from its own resources all th6 
facilities needful for carrying it on. 

BoEAX. — The production of refined borax by the California Borax Company 
for eight months, beginning January 5 and ending September 7, 1867, was 
481,912 pounds. The present product averages about 120 boxes (112 pounds 
each) per week. The company is about to erect a machine to lixiviate the mud 
of the lake, at a cost of $30,o5o. 

Mr. J. Axthm- Phillips, a distinguished mining engineer from England, made 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 265 

a careful examination of tlie company's property last year. The following is an 
extract from liis report on Borax lake : 

The borax occurs in the form of crystals of various dimensions, imbedded in the mud of 
the bottom, which is found to be most productive to a depth of three and a half feet, although 
a bore-hole, which was sunk near the centre to a depth of 60 feet, is said to have afforded a 
proportion of that salt throughout its whole extent. 

The crystals thus occurring are most abundant near the centre of the lake, and extend 
over an area equivalent to about one-third ,of its surface, but they are also met with, in smaller 
quantities, in the muddy deposit of the other portions of the basin, some of them being, in 
the richest part before alluded to, over a pound in weight. The largest crystals are generally 
enclosed in a stiff blue clay, at a depth of between three and four feet, and a short distance 
above them is a nearly pure stratum of smaller ones, some two and one-half and three inches 
in thickness, in addition to which crystals of various sizes are disseminated throughout the 
muddy deposit of v/hich the bottom consists. 

Besides the borax thus existing in a. crystallized form, the mud itself is highly charged with 
that salt, and, according to an analysis of Professor Oxland, when dried affords, in the por- 
tions of the lake now worked, (including the enclosed crystals,) 17.73 percent. Another 
analysis of an average sample, by Mr. Moore, of San Francisco, yielded him 18.8G per cent, 
of crystallized borax. 

In addition to this, the deposit at the bottom of the other portions of the basin, although 
less productive, still contains a large amount of borax, but no analyses of samples appear to 
have been made, except from the portions of the bottom at present worked. It has further 
been ascertained, by making pits on the lake shore, that clay containing a certain proportion 
of borax exists in the low ground, at a considerable distance from the water's edge. 

Extraction of Borax. — The borax at present manufactured is exclusively prepared 
from the native crystals of crude salt, while the mud in which they are found is returned to 
the lake after the mechanical separation of the crystals by washing. The extraction of the 
mud is effected by the aid of sheet-iron coffer-dams and a small dredging machine, Avorked 
by manual power, but the latter has been very recently put into operation. Until within a 
few weeks the only apparatus employed consisted of a raft, covered by a shingled roof which 
has an aperture in its centre about 15 feet square, and above which are hung, by suitable 
tackle, foiu- iron coffer-dams, six feet by six feet, and nine feet in depth. This rait or barge 
is moved in parallel lines across the surface of the lake, and at each station the four dams are 
sunk simultaneously by their own weight into the mud forming the bottom. When they 
have thus become well imbedded the water is baled out, and the mud removed in buckets to 
large rectangular washing vats, into which a continuous stream of water is introduced from 
the lake by means of Chinese pumps — the contents of the cisterns being at the same time 
constantly agitated by means of rakes. In this way the turbid water continually flows off', 
and a certain amount of borax is finally collected in the bottom of each tank, which is sub- 
sequently recrystallized ; but from the density acquired by the washing water, of which no 
less than 70,(J00 gallons are daily employed, it is evident that less than one-half of the borax 
existing in the form of crystals is thus obtained, while that Avhich is present in the mud itself 
is again returned to the lake. 

The dredging machine recently introduced is a decided improvement on the coffer-dams, 
and may, by the aid of some trifling modifications, be made a very efficient machine ; but 
the mud brought up by it is subjected to the washing process before described, and a small 
proportion only of the borax is obtained for recrystallization. 

Crystallization. — The crystals of rude borax thus daily obtained now amount to about 
3,000 pounds, and after being carefully washed they are deposited in boiling water and recrys- 
tallized in large lead-lined vessels, from which the purified borax is removed into boxes 
containing 114 pounds each, for the purpose of being forwarded to San Francisco. 

The produce of refined borax now daily obtained appears to vary from 2,500 to 2,800 
pounds, which is prepared and packed for the market, as nearly as my data will allow me to 
calculate, at a cost of about $90 per ton of 2,240 pounds. 

Capabilities of Production.— It is evident from the foregoing description that the 
present system of working is by no means calculated to develop the best results which this 
property is capable of affording, and that in order to do so it will be necessary to adopt some 
method for the lixiviation of the mud, its removal from the bottom of the lake, and the crys- 
tallization of the borax thus obtained. The total extent of the muddy deposit considerably 
exceeds three hundred acres, and if we assume that, of this area, only one hundred acres, or 
that portion now worked for borax crystals, is alone sufficiently rich to pay the expenses of 
treatment, we shall arrive at the following figures : 

One hundred acres are equivalent to 484,000 square yards, and if the mud be worked to 
the depth of only three and one-half feet, this represents about 565,000 cubic yards ; or, 
allowing a cubic yard to weigh a ton of 2,240 pounds, which is a very low estimate, the total 
weight of one hundred acres of mud, in its wet state, will be 565,000 tons. If we now 
assume that the mud extracted from the lake contains 60 per cent, of water, this will cor- 
respond to 226,000 tons of dry mud, containing, according to the mean of the analyses of 



266 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Professor Oxland and Mr. Moore, 18.29 per cent, of borax ; but if, in practice, only 12 per 
cent, of borax be obtained, this will represent 27,120 tons of crystallized salt. 

The present wholesale price of borax in Europe is $320 per ton of 2,240 pounds, and con- 
sequently the total value of the amount contained in this portion of the lake would be, on 
the foregoing assumption, delivered in the market, $3,078,400, If, however, we estimate its 
value in San Francisco at $275, it -is at the port of shipment worth $7,458,000. The expend- 
iture, in plant and appliances, of a further sum of $30,000, would, by the process proposed 
by Dr. Oxland, allow of a daily production of four tons of borax. This could be produced 
and delivered in San Francisco at a cost, exclusive of interest on capital and depreciation of 
plant, of $70 per ton; $1,898,400 for the 27,100, and leaving a diflerence of $4,559,600 
between the expense of production and the market value. 

The above calculations are made in accordance with the data furnished by the analyses 
already quoted of the mud in the central portions of the basin, but exclusive of a considera- 
tion of the borax contained in the deposits of other portions of the lake, as well as of the 
6,000 tons of this salt, indicated by analyses, as existing in solution in its waters. 

A careful consideration of the phenomena attending the production of borax also leads to 
the belief that its formation is continually going on by the decomposition of carbonate of 
soda, (which is abundantly contained in the waters of the lake,) by boracic acid emitted 
from sources beneath its bed, since large quantities of carbonic acid constantly escape from 
the surface. Should this prove to be the case, it is probable that any moderate extraction ot 
borax may be replaced by the formation constantly taking place. 

The quantity of carbonate of soda contained in the mud and water is considerably in excess 
of the amount of borax present, and could bo readily extracted from the mother liquors. 
Whether this operation could, however, be profitably conducted, with a view to the exporta- 
tion of soda ash, is a matter of considerable doubt, but the yearly consumption of this sub- 
stance in California being understood to be about 500 tons, this local demand could, at least, 
be supplied, at a profit of say 2^ cents per pound — $25,000 per annum. 

•Sulphur. — Mr. Pliilliijs tlms describes the sulphur bank belonging to this 
company, and the mode and cost of refining the crude sulphur : 

Sulphur Bank. — The sulphur bank, which presents the usual characteristics of such for- 
mations, is situated ou the shore of Clear lake, and covers an area ot about 40,000 square 
yards. In addition to sulphur, small quantities of cinnabar are found iu this locality. 

The deposit has not, as yet, been extensively developed, but has already afforded 400 tons 
of refined sulphur, of which about three tons daily can, it is stated, be readily sold in San 
Francisco at $70 per ton. 

From the limited extent of the explorations which have been made, it would be difficult 
to estimate the probable total yield of sulphur, but it is not unreasonable to anticipate that 
the bank contains at least from 15,000 to 20,000 tons of that substance. 

In order to make immediate returns of sulphur, a refinery has been recently erected for the 
treatment of the richer portions of the deposit, which frequently do not contain above 10 per 
cent, of' impurity ; but there are also vast quantities of tufaceous matters, containing from 
5 to 60 per cent, of sulphur, all of which will be ultimately treated with advantage. 

The cost of extracting, refining, and delivering a ton of sulphur in San Francisco is now 
stated to be about $35. 

The refinery consists of sundry iron retorts for the purposes of sublimation, together with 
the necessary condensers and receivers. It is well laid out, and connected with the.sulphur 
bank by a railway 1,300 feet iu length. 



SECTION XXI. 
AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES OF CALIFORNIA. 

CALIFORNIA AS A HOME FOR EMIGRANTS. 



INQUIRIES FROM LOUISIANA— RESPONSE OF THE EMIGRATION SOCIETY— PUBLIC LANDS, 
AGRICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, ETC. 

New Iberia, Louisiana, Scptemler 25, 1867. 

Sir : Some six weeks or two months ago I presumed to address you, not directing the letter, 
as is now advised, by Panama. I think it more than probable, on account of Indian disturb- 
ances, it will not reach its destination. 

In that, the first letter, I made many inquiries in regard to your favored State, and if I 
repeat them iu this, I trust you will not esteem me troublesome. There are several families 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 267 

of us desirous of escaping from the evils that afflict this section, and try our fortunes in 
States not cursed by negro supremacy. We lost nearly everything by the war, and we wish 
only protection and health, that we may try to live and educate our children, and where, if 
we should be so fortunate as to make anything, we would be protected in its enjoyment. 
With politics we are disgusted, and cannot care, again to exercise the privilege of voting, but 
heartily wishing to be governed by our own race. 

To the following inquiries we most respectfully ask answers, and should your time be other- 
v/iso employed, we ask that you hand this to some one that will honor us with the solicited 
information : 

1 . Are the public lands entirely absorbed ? 

2. Can thc-y be entered, if public ? 

'.^. Are there auy special laws regulating the entry ? 

4. In what part of the State are these lands mostly situated ? 

5. What is the price of unimproved lands not very close to the city ? 

6. Of improved places ? 

7. What are the wages of laborers by day, or month, or year ? 
R. Is there a demand for labor ? 

y. Is mining more profitable than farming, or vice versa ? 

10. What section would you advise poor people, desirous of making a living, and, if pos- 
sible, more, to settle in ? 

11. At about Avhat price could work-horses, milch cows, &c., be bought in the rural dis- 
tricts ? 

V2. Are goods of all descriptions very much more costly than in New York or New Orleans ? 

13. Are there any diseases peculiar to the climate ? 

14. And any information that you may judge would be of interest or service. 

Several of us are professional men, but we care not for profession if we can only have a 
white man's chance to work, and thereby support and educate our families. We would 
arrive in your city with but little money, and it would be well for us, I suppose, to remain 
but a short time, and not be very long in locating. At what season would it be best to arrive ? 
Cotton crop a failure in this State ; corn and cane very fine. Yellow fever has been very 
severe. Permit me again to ask the favor of an early and full answer to the above inquiries. 
Yours, respectfully, 

TliOS. T. FOLSOM. 
His Honor the Mayor of San Francisco, California. 



EEPLT. 



Query. " Are the public lands entirely absorbed V 

Answer. No. There are millions of acres yet in the keeping of the federal government 
officers, Avhich can be had for $1 an acre in gold. Only in the neighborhood of the great 
thoroughfares,' the navigable rivers, the fragments of railways yet constructed, the mining 
camps and the like, has ever the government surveyor yet erected his theodolite. The whole 
population of the States of California, Oregon, Nevada, and the Territory of Washington, does 
not come to a million of souls, and they have more land to live upon than the entire German 
family of 30 nations and 60,000,000. There are plenty of good spots where small colonies 
of immigrants may squat upon and await the coming (for years) of the federal government 
surveyor, and when he shall come, the $1 an acre demanded by the government will have 
long before been realized out of the land. 

In the San Joaquin valley, 60 miles back from Stockton, (a city of about 5,000 inhabitants, 
and one night's journey by steamer from San Francisco,) plenty of land can be got for §1 in 
gold per acre from the government office in Stockton. This valley is about 100 miles long, 
a width varying from 10 to 30 miles, through which streams, navigable for flatboats, flow 
down to the Sacramento river. The soil is deep and rich, and the bottoms near the water 
are exceedingly fertile, and able to support abundance of kine. This valley would absorb 
100,000 settlers. 

We have received from Mr. Merry, of Ked Blufi", (a growing town of about 2,000 inhabit- 
ants, at the head of navigation on the Sacramento river, and to be reached in two days by 
steamer from San Francisco, at an expense of from $10 to $12,) an elaborate report of the 
agricultural and business facilities in that section. He says : 

" The slopes of the Sierra hills and coast range, being well watered, afi"ord good pasturage 
for sheep and horned cattle during the year. The arable land of the country lying along the 
' bottoms ' of the Sacramento river and its tributaries bear grain crops of from 16 to 40 bushels 
of wheat to the acre. The best lands in the county (Tehama county) are covered by Mexican 
grants, to which patent titles from the President of the United States have been obtained. 
These lands can be purchased from present holders for $10 to $15 per acre. They are adapted 
to the growth of grain, potatoes and beets. All kinds of vegetables and fruit grow in the 
greatest luxuriance. Sheep breeding pays well. The flocks in this county number about 



268 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

100,000 sheep. The quality of wool has a very pood name in the San Francisco market, and 
bring^s 20 cents a poiiud. Butter will pay well for skilful dairymen, and cheese also. 

"S^r swine there is no better county in the State. Over 4,000 head of g:rain-fed hogs 
have been sold out of the county during the past j-ear. A pork and bacon-packing bouse in 
this place is doing an extensive business. The establishment of a woollen-mill here would 
be the best investment of capital extant. Lumber is cheap, firewood plenty, and water power 
abundant, going to waste. An iron foundry would pay well here. Money is dear, it brings 
two per cent., and two and a half per cent, per month. Farm laborers get $30 per month 
and board. Blacksmiths and wagon makers do well. Some have got rich. Good board 
can be got for .$20 to $25 a month. Cottages can be got for from $8 to $15 a month rent. 
Town lots for building can be entered at government prices. Common necessaries from the 
farms are cheaper than in San Francisco. Imported articles are about 30 per cent, higher. 
As to vine culture it is the best locality for that industry in the State. Here is the celebrated 
Bosqucjo vineyard, where the ' Gerke ' wine is made, which is a fair sample of our vine lands. 
Thousands of acres of equally good lands can be had here for $] 25 an acre." 

The section of country referred to by Mr. Merry would absorb and maintain 100,000 persons. 

In the counties south of San Francisco — Monterey, for instance — two days' journey by 
stage from Francisco, large tracts of the richest land, owned by easy-going people of Spanish 
descent, can be purchased or rented upon very advantageous terms ; purchased for $1 or $2 
an acre, or rented on shares for one-forth of the annual product of the land. The chief and 
greatest cost is the cost of fencing. 

In many places the old Spanish settlers own tracts of 30,000 to 50,000 acres, unfenced and 
■undivided, over which numberless flocks of sheep and cattle roam and breed and die, without 
control or much care from the proprietors, who live in rude ease, and almost secluded from 
the outside world. Their slumbers will soon be broken by the hum of busy immigrants, who 
will come crowding by sea and land into their fruitful territories. Further south, towards 
Los Angeles, the best lands can be purchased from those old-fashioned settlers for $1 au 
acre, or even less. There is very little timber to be cleared from any of these lands, 

To go upon these lands, several families should form themselves into villages or companies, 
and go out together on the land and help each other. This co-operative system is sure to make 
immigrants happy and prosperous. Farming implements can be got here better and cheaper 
than in England, or in any of the American cities of the Atlantic. Farm horses can be pur- 
chased for §20 to $40 apiece ; milk cows, $20 to $30 each. The expense of transporting one 
person from this city to the government land may be set down at $20. Markets can be found 
for any quantity of grain, butter, wool, and fruits. The vine is slow in its returns, but 
quite certain to pay at the end of four or five years, and will yet be the great occupation 
cf Califomians. The climate in most parts of California is moderate ; in winter there is 
oeither frost nor snow. 

The population of California is about 500,000. About 90,000 of these have votes, and 
are entered on the great register. Being an American citizen, and residing three months 
in one locality, gives the privilege of voting for all public officers. The voting is done iu 
one day, by ballot, all over the State, and there is no property qualification required in the 
voter or in the public officer. A person born out of the United States must be two years 
resident in the United States, have sworn fealty to the American government, and have 
registered his name on the great register before he can vote. 

There are about 50,000 Chinese, and about 10,000 negroes in the State. Neither of them 
have any political rights allowed them. They cannot vote for any public officer, nor is it 
likely that ever they will enjoy such privileges. The Chinese are looked upon with much 
jealousy by the white race. Opposition to them has assumed an organized shape, and there 
are numerous anti-coolie clubs existing in our city, whose object is to resist and discourage 
the importation and employment of Chinese labor. About 8,000 Chinamen are employed 
on the Pacific railway works; about 20,000 are working in and around the mines, and the 
remainder are scattered over the State engaged in doing the lowest kind of work about the 
cities and towns; washing, gardening, dealing in fish and vegetables, &c. 

Question 2. "Is there a demand for labor ?" 

Answer. We are anxiously and carefully gathering information from every side, from 
reliable sources, with the intention of forming a small hand-hook for the intending immigrant. 
We are full of the great idea of inviting an extensive immigration from Europe, and from the 
southern and eastern States, to the Pacific slope, but we shudder at the thought of mislead- 
ing any one. It is almost unnecessary to repeat that we have room and work for millions 
of people in our fields and mines, but the great trouble is to support people while they are 
fiudino- the work suited to their strength, their habits, and their experience. The idea that 
fills th^ minds of many persons in making towards California is, that they shall go a gold- 
huntin"' in the mines, make lucky hits, and return at some distant day to their old homes in 
Europe or the Atlantic States to enjoy their good fortunes. This idea has been the unseen 
rock that wrecked many an emigrant to this golden land. None should come to the Californi!> 
mines but miners. 

On the first discovery of gold in California, and for several years afterwards, every kind 
of laborer went into the mines, and many of them did very well ; but of late years the Chinese 



WERT OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 269 

got in, and swarmed over the " placer " or stream mines, and as they work in well organized 
companies, live upon little, they are able to scrape a living from the oft-washed sand.'5 in the 
older washing grounds of the earlier miners. The principal mining now carried on in Cali- 
fornia is quartz mining, which is as like coal or iron mining as possible — penetrating the 
bowels of the earth several hundred feet — men working in gangs, in "watches" of eight 
hours each shift, so that the work never stops, night or day. For this kind of work miners 
get §4 a day. Their board and lodging in the neighborhood of those quartz mines comes 
liigh, about $8 or $10 a week, as a general rule ; two and a half days' wages is required to 
pay for a miner's board and lodging for a week. A great deal of the work on the Pacific 
railroad on our side of the Rocky mountp.ins is performed by Chinamen, under white over- 
seers. They get about $1 a day for their labor. White men could get that wages and board, 
but they won't work for it. A dollar a day is the lowest notch which the strong man's labor 
has touched in any part of California. Common labor, according to skill, ranges up to 
$1 .^)0 and $2 a day. We are not now talking of skilled mechanical labor, such as carpenters, 
bricklayers, plasterers, smiths, machinists, foundry men, tailors, shoemakers, and the like. 
The labor of these sort brings $3 to $o a day in all the cities and in all the towns of the 
Pacific coast. As to clerks and light porters, and those who are always v/aiting for an easy 
berth or something to "turn up," there is little encouragement for them. The cities are full 
of them. This sort of helpless people are the production of an erroneous system of education, 
which has weaned the boy from labor, and left the man a helpless, pitiable mendicant. 

You are, doubtless, impatient to learn, then, what sort of jieople are likely to do well here, 
and we answer, any sort who are thoroughly determined to work — men and women, young 
and old. 

The lowest wages for labor among us is about twice the wages of New Yorlc, and four 
times the wages obtained in Great Britain, Ireland, or Germany. The price of wheaten flour 
is about one-half what it is in Liverpool or New York — §8 a barrel of I9<3 pounds just now. 
Tea, sugar, and coffee about the same as in England or New York. Clothing and house 
rent about double the English rates, and about the same as in New York. All the foregoing 
rates are in gold. 

Question 3. " Is mining more profitable than farming ?" 

Answer. This question is one still more ditBcult to answer. Farming has lately acquired 
u, fixed character. The fine qualities of wheat and flour which California yields — the vast 
quantities of wool, of butter, of fruit and wine, and the high prices these products realize in 
New York and Liverpool, have latterly decided great numbers of our population to go into 
farming. One only drawback which farming in California will ever experience, and that 
will occasionally arise from long seasons of drought. 

The last three years the seasons were very well mixed with rains about the time they were 
^ivanted, and sunshine when wanted ; and our farmers have had splendid crops and obtained 
high prices. About four years ago there was a long drought and a cattle famine was expe- 
rienced. Flour ran up to very high rates, and there was much suffering among the working 
people. This has passed away and is forgotten in our present prosperity, but it is well for 
all immigrants facing to this country to be made aware of these things. 

We have, in general, about seven months of the year when there does not fall a drop of rain, 
yet vegetation is nourished by copious dews. Then we have four or five months when it 
pours down plenteously, and this rain it is that brings us the means to obtain the food that 
lies intact in the earth, and enables our miners to wash the clay and sand that contains the 
gold dust. 

The total produce of our gold and silver mines m.ay be set at $50,000,000 to $60,000,000 
a year. Our farming and general agricultural products will very soon, if they do not now, 
foot up to $50,000,000 worth a year. The value of the wheat and flour shipped from Cali- 
fornia since last harvest comes up to $9,000,000 ; and as fast as good .ships come into the 
harbor they are engaged to take out wheat and flour, wool, hides, &e. The general demand 
for all sorts of mechanics in this city, and throughout the State, was never better. The 
wages, as we have said, range : For Chinamen, $1 a day ; common laborers, $'i a day ; 
skilled mechanics $3 to $4 a day — some of superior skill, $5 a day ; female servants, $15 to 
$25 a month, and board ; farm laborers, $30 a month, and board. All these prices are gold, 
and all our dealings here are managed on a gold basis. 
Question 4. "Are there any diseases peculiar to California?" 

Answer. The climate of California is the most healthful to be found in the world. It is 
equable all the year round. The thermometer ranges from 50° to 90° throughout the State. 
We lay from 32° to 42° north latitude. We have neither frost nor snow, except on the high 
mountains of the Sierra Nevada, and some of the mountains in the Coast range. The only 
drawback to health is experienced in the neighborhood of the mines, where the water is over- 
strongly impregnated with mineral matter, which generates ague and peculiar fevers ; but in 
the agricultural regions the people live on from year to year their whole lives without expe- 
riencing a day's sickness, and the children multiply in numbers and develop in symmetry 
and beauty beyond those of any race on the face of the globe. 

Next to the employments under the head of "ordyiary agriculture" is the vine culture, 
which is peculiar to- California ; its vines and wines are now celebrated all over the world. 



270 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

But a few years ago it was not supposed the vine would flourish anywhere but in the south- 
ern region and Los Angeles. Latterly, experiments have demonstrated that it will flourish 
in the acclivities around the mining camp as well as amid the sheep-walks and pastoral plains 
and valleys ; that whether it is pressed into wine or distilled into brandy, it will reward the 
hibor bestowed upon its cultivation. The California wines begin to make their M'ay in the 
New York market, and each new year will confer on their quality more richness and more 
.reputation. 

The grape vines of California, when five years old, yield plenteously ; one has only to own 
half dozen acres, well planted with vines of that age, to realize a life-long indepedence. In 
a few years from the present time, the wine and silk of California will form some of the lead- 
ing articles of its export. 

The fruits of California are now so rich and plentiful that the farmers begin to dry, and 
press, and ship them to the Atlantic cities, from whence, but a very few years ago, we 
imported dried fruits, flour, &c. 

The raising of the silk-worm has been commenced in California, and has succeeded. It 
is proven that the climate is quite as favorable as that of France or Italy for this branch of 
industry. Arrangements are in progress to start a silk factory. The success of this experi 
ment will lead to national results by and by. We shall soon come to the raising of tobacco, 
beet root, and manufacture of beet and cane sugar, cotton, flax, linen, hemp, and hops, for 
all of which the soil and climate are admirably fitted. Some cotton has been raised in the 
southern parts of the State in a desultory way, but the soil awaits the enterprising hands of 
toiling men to bring about those great results from the vast and varied material that sleeps 
neglected in the soil, and hovers over us in the overhanging climate. 

We are building small coasting schooners of 50 to 200 tons. All those craft are well 
emjiloyed in carrying lumber, coal, and the produce of the fields into market, and latterly 
groups of those small craft have gone fishing for cod in the North Pacific with great success. 
The salmon and other fish caught in our waters are certainly the best in the world. 

Our progress in manufacture is infantine and rude. Three or four woollen mills and one 
cotton factory are all that California can boast of, but these are doing well, and in good time 
others will start. Our tanneries are numerous in city and country, and their manufactures 
well liked and in good demand. Wc should say the business is healthy, with fair profits. 
Soap and candle factories are experimenting on the native tallow and beeswax of the country 
— this is the land for bees and honey. 

They have begun one factory for making boots and shoes, and so far it is prosperous^ 
employing two hundred hands. There is room here for many paper and flour mills. We 
have two glass factories, on a small scale, doing well, and any number of iron foundries, all 
at full work. There has been a glove factory lately started, and is doing well ; also a rudo 
pottery-ware factory. We want half a dozen hat factories, in which the hat from the founda- 
tion would be made, trimmed and finished. We have plenty of printers and an abundance 
of newspapers. The population of San Francisco is about 120,000. We have eight morn 
ing and evening newspapers, and 12 or 15 weeklies. We have a score of banks, 15 insu- 
rance companies, any number of hotels, boarding houses, and public schools. About half 
the population are native-born Americans from the Atlantic States ; the other half is divided 
among the Germans, Irish, French, Spanish, Chinese, and negroes. The Jews have two 
synagogues, the Roman Catholics eight churches, and the Protestants a dozen or so. Take 
them as a Avhole, they are the most hospitable and generous crowd of citizens to be found in 
any seaport round the whole earth. No man nor woman will be suffered to want food here, 
and no industrious man nor woman need be afraid of casting their destiny in the fertile grazing 
lands of California. 

We hope these few hints on our new and growing State will be useful. The worst time for 
tr9,velling through our interior districts are the winter and spring months, when the roads 
are softened by the rains. Rains usually begin in December and continue down to April. 
We remain, respectfully, 

H. A. COBB, President. 

THOMAS MOONEY, Fice President. 

J. W. MgKENZIE, Secretary. 

San Francisco, October 29, 1867. 



WEST OP* THE 1 ROCKY . MOUNTAINS. 



271 



Tabular statement of receipts and exports of agricultural products at San Fran- 
cisco, California, from June, 1860, to July, 1867. 



Year. 


Flour. 


Wheat. 


Barley. 


Oats. 


Wool. 


1861 


barrels. 
122, 809 
111,269 
149, 825 
99, 298 
61,670 
167, 316 
301,449 


100-/6. sacks. 
2, 164, 320 
1,451,465 
1,890,777 
1,843,840 
509, 163 
2, 138, 442 
5,214,196 


100-/6. sacks 
671,414 
612, 014 
435, 945 
623, 266 
415, 914 
984, 208 
767, 938 


100-/6. sacks. 
305, 208 
343, 808 
172, 896 
304, .504 
255, 839 
322,528 
326,119 


Pounds. 

3,721,^^98 


1862 


5, 990, 300 


1863 


6, 268, 480 


1864 


7, 435, 670 


1865 


8, 889, 931 


1866 


7,851,629 


1867 


*7, 166, 680 






Totals 


1,013,636 


15, 212, 203 


4,510,699 


2, 030, 902 


47, 334, 688 







* To August 1. 



EXPORTS. 



Year. 



1861 

1862 

1863 

1864 

1665 

1866 

1867 

Totals 



Flour. 



Barrels. 
197, 181 
191,652 
144,882 
1.52, 633 
91,479 
279, 554 
485, 337 



1,452,718 



Wheat. 



100-/6. sacks. 
1,529,924 
851,844 
1,043,652 
1,071,292 
25, 360 
1,0.39,518 
3, 636, 194 



9, 197, 784 



Barley. 



100-Z6. sacks. 

339, 537 

188,619 

49, 809 

40, 260 

13, 920 

349, 994 

142, 157 



1,124,296 



Oats. 



100-Z6. sacks. 

116,462 

1.54,587 

39, 985 

91, 082 

3,389 

113,961 

88,331 



607, 797 



Wool. 



Pounds. 
3,721,998 
5, 990, 300 
5, 268, 480 
5, 935, 670 
6, 549, 931 
4,662,129 
2, 104, 000 

34, 232, 508 



Countries to ivliich exported during tlie year 1867. 



Destination. 


Flour. 


Wheat. 


Barley. 


Oats. 


Wool. 


New Yorlc ...... 


Barrels. 

201, 478 

38,921 

69,270 

1,410 

4,171 

1,676 

3,149 

1,650 

22, 669 

40, 732 


100-/6. sacks. 

510,784 

3,131,553 

151, 124 

544 

366 

2,950 

10 

172, 069 


100-/6. sacks. 
27,625 

2,797 
1,700 

28, 579 
1,763 
7,788 
2,130 

70,892 


100-/6. sacks. 


Pounds. 

2, 758, 000 


Great Britain. . ^ 


83 
3,544 
2,700 
2,487 
565 
187 
1,281 




China ....... . . 




Japan ..... ..... 


























58, 546 


1,223 


196 








Totals 


385,126 


4, 027, 946 


143,497 


11,043 


2, 758, 000 







272 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



SAN FRANCISCO IN 1867-'68.* 

The total poprlation of the city, August 1, 1867, is estimated at 131,100. The estimate 
for 1858 was 83,223, showing an increase in eight years of 47,877. The particulars of the 
estimate for 1867 are as follows : 

White males over 21, names iu the present volume 45, 000 

White females over 18, estimated 27,000 

White males under 21 and females under 18, estimated 40, 000 

White males, names refused, and foreigners, estimated 4, 000 

Chinese, male and female » 3, 600 

Colored, male and female =■ 2, 500 

Total permanent population 122, 100 

To which should be added a large clement of our population known as "floating," 
which consists of : 1st. Transient boarders, «fec., at liotels, boarding-houses, <fcc. 
2d. Soldiers at the fortifications in the harbor. 3d. Persons engaged in navi- 
gating the bay, who claim the city as their residence. 4th. A large number of 
persons who have no permanent place of abode, together amounting to about ... 9, 000 

Total population 131,100 



The school census of July, 1867, gives the number of children under 15 years at 34,710. 
The number of males between 15 and 21, and females between 15 and 18, is estimated at 
5,290, malviug the aggregate 40,000 of all ages. 

Improvements of the Year Past. — The number of buildings erected in San Francisco 
during the year ending June 30, 1867, is 1,050, of which 340 are of brick ; total in the city 
and county, 17,368, of which 3,857 are of brick. The estimated cost of the improvements 
during the game period is nearly $9,000,000. The sales of real estate for the first seven months 
of the present year exceed $1 0,000,000. The operations of the department of streets and 
highways, for the year ending June 30, 1807, show an expenditure exceeding $1,000,000. 

The cost of a number of the principal new buildings is thus given : Bank of California, 
$275,000; Mercantile Library, $110,000; Merchants' Exchange, $190,000; Fireman's Fund 
Insurance, $4.5,000 ; Pacific Insurance, $80,000 ; Merchants' Mutual Insurance, $60,000 ; 
Hibernia Savings and Loan, $65,000; Murphy, Grant & Co.'s four-story iron-fronted brick 
block, $170,000; enlargement and improvements Lick House, $175,000; Dr. Scudder's 
church, $64,000; Trinity church, $75,000; St. Joseph's, Catholic, $18,000; Tehema street 
school-house, $26,000; almshouse. $60,000; Oriental buildings, $200,000; additions to Occi- 
dental Hotel, $125,000; Blanding & Pringle's block, $70,000; Ellis's block, $65,000; Bran- 
nau's new building, $60,000; Savmgs Union building, $50,000; Hayward's building, corner 
California and Leidesdorff, $90,000 ; Morrow's building, California, near Montgomery, 
$50,000; Tucker's building, $45,000. 

Streets and Sewers. — The total expenditure in the department of streets and highways 
for the year ending June 30, 1867, amounts to $1,009,883 85, viz: For grading 1,191,257' 
cubic yards, at a cost of $327,333 ; paving 166,083 square feet cobble-stone and 236,005 square 
feet Nicholson, together, $117,594 ; brick sewers, 21,203 lineal feet, $156,745; planking, 
2,571,083 feet, $96,897; sidewalks, 69,925 front feet, $96,154 ; cross walks, 6,296 feet, and 
curbs, 19,193 feet, together, $47,423; macadamizing, 1,560,119 square feet, $117,272; red-, 
Avood sewers, 12,137 feet, $49,578. The entire cost of street work from July 1, 1856, to June 
30, 1867, is $5,439,287. The total length of sewers constructed from July 1, 1856, to June 
30, 1867, is 165,.583 lineal feet, or nearly 30 miles of sewerage. The principal improvements 
have been the grading of McAlister street, from Larkin to Fillmore; Tenth street, from Mar- 
ket to Howard; Towusend street, between Third and Fourth; Brannan street, between 
Second and Third ; Fillmore street, from Sacramento to Pacific ; Clay street, from Jones to 
LeavenAvorth ; O'Faryell street, from Larkia to Polk ; California street, from Polk to Franklin ; 
Fulton street, from Buchanan to Fillmore ; Van Ness avenue, from Bush to Geary ; Franklin 
street, from Ellis to Turk; Main street, from Mission to Folsom ; Fourth street, between 
Brannan and Townsond ; Taylor street, between Broadway and Vallejo ; Spear street, from 
Harrison to Folsom, and Bush street, from Larkin to Cemetery avenue. 

Water Front Improvements. — The work of constructing a seawall for the protection 
of the city front and better accommodation of shipping has been commenced during the past 
year. It will be 8,330 feet in length when completed. It is estimated to cost $2,462,470, or 
$295 37i per linear foot. It is to be constructed of solid granite, eight feet thick at base and 
six feet at top, resting on a broad embankment of rocks and cement. 

Tlie new dry dock, nearly completed, at Hunter's Point, about four mi'es southeast from 
Folsom street wharf, is one of the most important enterprises ever undertaken by private 
citizens. Tliis v/ork was commenced in September, 1866, and is expected to be completed 
ty the close of the present year. The dimensions of the dock are 465 feet long by 125 feet 

* Compiled from Langley's Crty Directory. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 273 

wide on the surface, and 400 feet long by 80 feet wide on the bottom, and of sufficient depth 
to permit vessels drawing 22 feet of water to float in it. Nearly the whole of this great exca- 
vation has been cut out of solid rock. The materials extracted have been sufficient to cover 
10 50-vara lots of the adjoining swamp land to a depth to bring them up to the grade of the 
city. The whole front of the dock will be covered with solid blocks of cut granite, 13,000 
square yards of which have been brought from the quarries at Rocklin, Sacramento county, 
for that purpose. Powerful engines, pumps, and every necessary arrangement for rendering 
the Avorks complete have been constructed, the whole cost of which will exceed $1,200,000. 

The Merchants' Dry Dock Company have completed a floating apparatus, calculated to 
sustain vessels of 1,000 tons burden. This dock cost $60,000. 

The Union Lumber Association are constructing a dock near Beale street, which is esti- 
mated to cost $150,000. This association has expended $185,000 in the construction of 
wharves and other improvements on lands adjoming the new wharf of the Pacific Mail Steam- 
ship Company. The improvements made and in progress under the direction of this latter 
company have quite changed the topography of the western front of the city. This company 
owns the block of overflowed land bounded by First, Second, Townsend, and Brannau streets, 
about 12 50-vara lots. They have constructed wharves, which have required ], 200 piles, 
3,000,000 feet of sawed lumber, 35 tons of iron bolts, and 300,000 cubic yards of earth to 
complete. They erected a two-story brick warehouse, 195 feet deep by 230 feet wide, cut 
down hills and filled up swamps to such an extent that what had been the most useless por- 
tion of the city front has become the centre of an extensive business. Hundreds of men and 
teams are at present engaged cutting down the hills in the vicinity and filling up the shallow 
bay Avith the materials, extending the area of the city hundreds of feet over Avhat had been 
useless territory. The erection of several large Avarehouses is contemplated in the vicinity. 

Markets and Rolling Mills. — The new California Market, extending from California 
to Pine streets, was commenced and has been completed during the past year. This is one 
of the most useful improvements in the city, being centrally located and most conveniently 
arranged. It is a most substantial structure, with elegant iron fronts on each of these streets, 
resting on a solid cut-granite basement. It cost about $200,000. Another extensive market, 
which cost about $60,000, has been built on Howard street, betAveen Third and Fourth. 

Among the new branches of manufacture introduced dm'ing the past year the Pacific Roll- 
ing Mills holds a prominent position. It is located at Potrero Point, and has been fitted up 
Avith every requisite for manufacturing iron bars and rods of any shape or form, from a ^ 
inch up to 36 inches in diameter, including railroad iron of all descriptions. These Avorks 
cost $1,000,000, 

' Real Estate.— Statistics in the office of the city and county assessor place the value of 
our real estate improvements for the past fiscal year at $58,000,000. The number of sales 
of pi'operty made for the 12 months ending July 31, 1867, av as 5,213, at a A'aluation of 
$15,.383,196. The above figures include only the sales recorded. The prices paid at the 
Beidman sale would SAvell the total to nearly $16,000,000. . 

Educational Facts. — There are 34,710 Avhite children under 15 years of age in the city. 
Our juvenile population has increased nearly 300 per cent, in seven years. The average 
number of pupils belonging to the public schools Jmie 30, 1867, Avas nearly 11,000. Eight 
ncAV school-houses were erected during the year. The disbursements of the school depart- 
ment of the public school fund upon the assessment roll of the last fiscal year were $320,958 88 
— slightly Avithin the receipts. Basing the amount of taxes for the benefit $80,000,000, at 
the school tax rate of 35 cents on each $100, the amount raised from this source the present 
year Avill be $280,000; apportionment of the State school fund, $60,000 ; poll taxes, $2,500 : 
dog tax, $1,000; rent of school property, $600; evening schools, $200, Total revenue for 
the present year, $344,300. 

The Avhole number of private educational institutions in San Francisco is about 70, Avith 
an aggregate attendance, including students at the different colleges, of 4,250. Of this num- 
ber 12 are under the control of the Catholic denomination, and the regular aggregate attend- 
ance upon the same is over 3,400. 

There are 21 schools connected with the Protestant Sunday School Union. The average 
attendance at these schools is 4,340 ; other Protestant schools, 2,405 ; Catholic schools, 3,600 ,- 
HebrcAv, 690. Total Avho receiA'e religious instructions on the Sabbath day in this city, 
11,035. Libraries- -number of A'olumes Sabbath School Union, 19,927; other Protestant 
schools, 12,000 ; Catholic schools, 6,000. Total number of volumes in Sabbath schools in 
this city, (HebrcAV not included,) 37,927. 

New Manufactures. — Among the most prominent of the branches of industry put in 
operation are the Pacific Woollen Mills, located at the Mission, manufacturing knit goods of 
all descriptions at the rate of $500,000 annually, and employing nearly 400 persons ; the 
Golden City Chemical Works, Avith a capital of $2,000,000, and manufacturing a great 
variety of chemicals and medicinal extracts ; the San Francisco Glass Works, manufacturing 
both Avhite and colored glassware to the extent of $150,000 a year, and the San Francisco 
Linseed Oil and Paint Works, Avith capacity to supply the entire Avants of the coast. These, 
Avith minor enterprises inaugurated during the same period, have absorbed more than $3,000,000 
capital, and Avill turn out manufactures to half that amount annually. The most prominent 
of the enterprises yet unfinished is the Pacific Rolling Mills, which promises to be in suc- 
18 



274 RESOURCES OP STATES AND TERRITORIES 

cessfnl operation within the next twelve months. This establishment is much needed, both 
to do away with the importation of a vast amount of manufactured metals and to stimulate 
new branches of labor by furnishing supplies of home materials which are required to make 
them successful. The large capital of these mills, and their contemplated extensive scope of 
manufacture in copper as well as in iron, promise to do more to develop the resources of the 
State in these metals than all similar enterprises now in operation combined. 

General Manufacturing Items. — The pecuniary results of all the manufacturing inter- 
ests in this city for the past year are favorably reported. The sugar and petroleum factories 
are alone complained of as being less successful than in former years. The Pioneer and 
Mission Woollen Mills manufactured for the year ending June, 1866, goods to the value of 
§1899,734. The Mission mills alone turned out, with 425 hands, 80,000 pairs of blankets, 
125,000 yards of broadcloth and cassimere, 500,000 yards of flannel and cloaking, besides a 
quantity of shawls ; the whole consuming 2,000,000 of wool. The Pacific Woollen Mills 
will make up into knit woollen goods this year 500,000 pounds of fine avooI. Mayer & Sons' 
cotton wadding, batting, and twiue works can turn out 2,000 pounds of wadding and batting 
per day. The cotton they use is imported chiefly from Tahiti and Mexican ports. The Pacific 
Cordage Factory turned out last year 2,000,000 pounds of cordage. The rope-walk is 1,500 
feet long, and the works altogether employ 47 men constantly. The Pioneer Woollen Mills, 
during last year, employed 350 hands, and made 30,000 pairs of blankets, 60,000 yards of 
broadcloths, tweeds, and cassimeres, and 375,000 yards of flannels, which consumed 1,300,000 
pounds of choice wool. A very large portion of the flannels manufactured is made up at 
once into shirts, the company employing CO sewing machines in that and other work con- 
nected with their manufactures. 

There are three manufactories of acids and other chemicals in the city, which supply the 
.assay offices and mint on this coast. The Phoenix Oil Works have a refining capacity of 400 
gallons per day. Mallon & Co.'s glass-cutting works manufactured to the amount of §6,000 
in 1866. The Pacific Saw Works turned out manufactures valued at over $3,000,000. Dana's 
neat-foot oil works turned out 33,997 pounds of glue and 5,007 gallons of oil. Cameron, 
Whittier & Qo. made mirrors to the value of $18,000. Zech made 12 pianos last year, of 
an average value of $450, using native ash, laurel, and other domestic woods. John Mayer 
made two large organs of good qualit}'. The glass manufactures of the year aggregated 
$80,000. 

There are 11 extensive flour mills in the city, which exported the first eight months of this 
year 136,958 barrels of flour via the Isthmus of Panama. Eight mills turned out last year 
an aggregate of 247,708 barrels, besides large quantities of other meals. Eight saw-mill^ 
turned out 8,950,000 feet of lumber. 

Up to the present time the principal foundries and machine shops located in this city have 
turned out machinery for the projiulsion of 1,000 ton vessels, stationery engines, batteries 
of heavy guns, the most powerful quartz-crushing machinery, saw and flour mills, and for a 
multiplicity of business not needed to mention. With the exception of the raw materials 
used for castings and machinery, the foundries of the State have rendered its people inde- 
pendent of other countries and given profitable employment, directly and indirectly, to several 
thousands of persons. At the present time there are 14 large foundries and machine shops, 
some of which have no superiors any where in excellence of work and adaptation of materials 
to meet the wants of the people. Duriug the year 1866 these foundries, with some few 
smaller ones, employed 1,018 men, using 6,921 tons pig iron, 1,448 tons bar and rod iron, 
1,027 tons sheet and boiler iron^ and 110 tons rivets. Several of these establishments have 
extensive boiler shops connected with them. 

The three sugar refineries in this city have a capacity nearly double the local consumption. 
One establishment alone has a capacity to refine 120,000 pounds daily. Altogether about 300 
men are employed in these refineries. Tw'enty thousand boxes of maccaroni and paste were 
made by one firm last year. Another house made 3,000 gross of yeast powders. About 
24,000 brooms were manufactured. Wooden ware and box manufacturing is extensive and 
profitable. The new linseed oil works can crush 4,000 pounds seed per week. Two firms 
have made 5,000 billiard tables in this city in 10 years. During 18G6 they employed 12 men 
anfl made 70 tables, worth $480 each. 

The products of several other manufactories may thus be condensed: Ten soap establish- 
ments, 2,831,419 pounds; three match factories, 250,000 gross ; five tanneries, 2,400 hides, 
615 dozen calf and 515 kip skins ; hose and belting, 6,000 feet hose, $7,000 worth of belting, 
and 400 dozen horse collars ; boots and shoes, total manufactures, $750,000, employing about 
500 men ; type foundry at the rate of $20,000 per annum ; 24 breweries, of which 17 turned 
cut 76,602 barrels of beer ; furniture establishments employ over 300 men and turned out 
about $800,000 worth of furniture ; 800 cigar makers, employed by 100 firms, turn out nearly 
3,000,000 cigars a month ; the clothing manufacturers employ 700 persons and turned out 
last year $1,500,000 worth of goods ; 20 firms are engaged in making carriages and wagons. 
Trade Fluctuations. — A general table of the fluctuations of trade shows that the num- 
ber of persons in business in this city has increased from 5,300 in 1862 to 6,942 in 1867. 
Only the leading branches of trade are included in this table. Of those in business in 1862 
only 3,956 are still found in existing trade circles. The yearly changes among small dealers 
will not fall short of 40 per cent, per annum. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, 275 

Municipal Finances.— The total assessment for 18G6-'67 is $96,700,397. Of this valua- 
tion $53,485,421 is assigned to real estate, and $43,214,976 to personal property. The total 
of State, city, and county taxes is $3 10 on each $100. The amount absolutely collected on 
is much les"s than the aggregate valuations for the last two years. In 1865-'6G it was 
$22,730,719 personal against $39,775,500 assessed, and $45,436,924 real estate against 
$49,138,027 assessed ; in all, $68,167,643 collected on against §38.913,527 assessed. 

The city expenditures for 1865-66 were $1,437,281 20, which amount was divided as 
follows: Cuneut expenses, $916,934 45; permanent improvements, $90,995 90; interest, 
^256,198 38; reduction of debt, $154,055; old claims, $19,097 47. The expenditures for 
1866-'67 are thus stated: Current expenses, $939,285 05; permanent improvements, 
$188,073 75; interest, $213,353 06; reduction of debt, $354,686 b2; old claims, $71,163 66: 
total, $1,766,565 34. Increase this year, $329,284 14. 

The total revemie for 1865-'66 was $1,624,408 06. That for 1866-'67 was $1,841,753 96, 
showing an increase of $217,345 90. The revenue is derived this year as follows: Taxes, 
$1,482,476 31 ; State and county licenses, $93,901 50 ; municipal licenses, $31,762 50; sale 
of bonds, $125,965 33; other sources, $107,647 97. 

The bonded debt aggregates $4,748,667, bearing interest at from 6 to 10 per cent. The 
annual sinking fund is about $198,500. The bonds in aid of the Pacific railroad alone 
amount to $650,000, bearing 7 per cent, interest. 

Climate of Califokxia. — The followiug interesting and instructive obser- 
vations on the climate of California arc from the proof-sheets of a forthcoming 
work on the Pacific Coast, by Mr. T. F. Cronise, soon to be issued by Messrs, 
H. H. Bancroft & Co., of San Francisco : 

The Variety op Climate. — There are essentially two climates in California, the land 
climate and the sea climate. The latter derives its low temperature from the ocean, the water 
of which along the coast stands at from 52° to 45° all the year round. The evenness of the 
ocean temperature is owing to a steady current from the north, which is accompanied also 
by winds in the same direction during the entire summer season, or rather from April to 
()ctober, inclusive. Almost daily during this period a deluge of cold, damp air, of the samo 
temperature as the ocean over which it has passed, is poured upon the land. It is mostly 
laden with mist, in dense clouds, which it deposits at the foot hills and on the slopes of the 
highlands, or canies a short distance into the interior, wherever there is a break in the land 
wall. 

The land climate is as nearly as possible the opposite in eveiy respect. In summer and 
atuumn it is hot and dry. It undergoes various modifications from the configuration of the 
surface of the earth. Even the mountains, which retain the snow till a late period, present 
a high temperature in the middle of the day, and the presence of the snow on their summits 
in June is owing to the great mass which has accumulated on them rather than to cold 
weather. 

A large district of temtorylies between the jurisdiction of the two climates, and subject to 
their joint intluence. It is composed chiefly of valleys surrounding the bay of San Francisco, 
and penetrating into the interior in every direction. There is no climate in the world mora 
delightful than these valleys enjoy, and no territory more productive. While the ocean 
prevents the contiguous land from being scorched in summer, it also prevents it from being 
frozen in winter. Hence ice and snow are not common in the ocean climate. The difference 
in temperature is comparatively slight between winter and summer. 

The cold of winter in the interior is not intense, even on mountain elevations, with the 
exception of the tier of counties in the extreme north. Its degree depends much, however, 
on the altitude of the locality. The severity of winter is due, not to extreme cold in any part 
of California, but to violent and prolonged snow-storms in one section, and cold and prolonged 
rains in the others. 

It is interesting to cast the eye over the map of the State, and trace out climatic modifica- 
tions as governed by topography. First, look at the long range of coast, the slope of which, as 
lar back as the first mountan wall, is under the control of the ocean, and has the most uniform 
of climates. It is a narrow strip of territory, the only part of the State preserved from dessica- 
tiou in summer by daily showers of mist, and therefore admirably adapted to dairy purposes. 
Then survey the counties bordering on the great bay, Sonoma, Napa, Solano, Contra Costa, 
Alameda, Santa Clara, and San Mateo, borrowing one-half their climate from the ocean, and 
the other half from the interior ; inexhaustible in agricultural resources, and forming the 
granary of the Pacific. The Pajaro and some other valleys further south, to which the sea 
winds gain access, belong to the same system, and those also of the Sacramento and San 
Joaquin, although in a lesser degree, being further removed from the ocean. Then regard . 
the mountain range, with its countless little valleys, buried up with snow in winter, bursting 
forth into a paradise with the spring, and converted into furnaces by the summer's sun, and 
yet luxuriant with all kinds of delicious fruits. In this section are concentrated the mining 
interests. Finally, view the southern section, embracing one-fourth of the State, removed 
alike from both extremes, which operate in the north, controlled neither by mountain nor 



276 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



ocean, and enjoying the most genial temperature— a section of country wanting only in the 
certainty of winter rains to make it an Eden. 

Climate of San Francisco.— The record of the climate of San Francisco, as kept by 
Mr. Henry Gibbons, extending from the autumn of 1850 to January, 1608, a period of 17 years, 
shows the coldest weather during that time to have occurred in January, 1854, when the 
mercury fell as low as 25"^. The coldest noonday for the same period was 37°. Persons 
who do not rise early may see no ice in that city for several years in succession. When it 
is cold enough to preserve ice in the shade all day, the circumstance is noted as a phenomenon. 
It is not uncommon for the entire winter to pass away without bringing the thermometer down 
so low as the point of freezing. In the year 1853, it fell at no time lower than 40°, or 8° 
above the freezing point. 

The extreme of heat in the same period occurred on September 10 and 11, 1852, when the 
thermometer reached 97° and 9S° on the two days respectively. This, however, was entirely 
exceptional, and might not again occur in half a century. The air was dry as a sirocco, and 
bad a curious effect on the wood-work of houses, causing a constant crackling noise, from 
the shrinking of the timber and the plaster breaking on the wooden partitions. In a locality 
somewhat exposed to reflected heat from the sun, and where the temperature was 100°, a 
thermometer with a wet bulb fell to 68°, the evaporation reducing it 32°. 

With the exception just noted, the hottest day in the 17 years was on the 6th of July, 1867, 
when the thermometer stood at 93°. In October, 1854, and in September, 1865, it reached 
91° ; and in July, 1855, it rose once to 90°. Thus, it appears there were but six days in 17 
years when the temperature was as high as 90°, and only two of these six days were in the 
summer months. 

The absence of warm weather in the summer months is characteristic of the coast climate, 
and strikes a stranger forcibly. The most ordinary programme of this climate for the year 
is as follows, beginning with the rainy season: The first decided rains are in November or 
December, when the country, after having been parched with drought, puts on the garb of 
spring. In January the rains abate, and vegetation advances slowly, with occasional slight 
frosts. February is spring like, with but little rain. March and April are pleasant and 
showery, with an occasional hot day. In May the sea Weeze begins, but does not give much 
annoyance. In June, just as warm weather is about to set in, the sea breeze comes daily, 
and keeps down the temperature. It continues through July and August, occas.'onall}'- 
holding up for a day or two, and permitting the sun to heat the air to the sweating point. 
In September the sea wind moderates, and there is a slight taste of summer, which is pro- 
longed into the next mouth. The pleasant weather often lingers in the lap of winter, and is 
interrupted only by the rains of November or December, 

By running the eye over the following table, a general idea can be gained of the coast 
climate as regards temperature. The first column represents the average temperature of 
each month at sunrise, for 17 years ; the second at noon, and the third is the mean of the other 
two : 



Months. 



January . 
February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 









*s 


a 


y ! 


3 


o 
a 


a 


C3 




" ! 








C3 


a 


fl ! 














O 


o 


° i 


44. 


56. 


50. 1 


48. 


60. 


53.5 , 


48. 


G3. 


55. 5 


49. 


64. 


57. 


50. 


64. 


57. 


51. 


68. 


59.5 


5-2. 


C7. 


59.5 



Months. 



August 

September 
October... 
November. 
December , 



53. 

53.5 

53. 

49. 

45. 



49.5 



67. 

69.5 

68. 

62. 

55. 



63.7 



60. 

61. 

60.5 

55.5 

50. 



56.6 



Observe in the table the regular increase from January to September, and the rapid decrease 
from October to December; nine months of increase and two of decrease. Notice, also, the 
uniform increase of the night temperature as rejiresented in the first column, and the irregu- 
larity in the noonday increase, the sea-breeze arresting it in May, and the sun giving it an 
upward impulse in June, before the sea wind has gained undisputed control. 

Mf.an Annual TEMrcRATUUE. — The mean annual temperature at San Francisco is 56.6, 
which may be set down as the mean of the coast and bay climate. As we recede from the 
ocean, the days are warmer and the nights colder, the sun being the great disturber of 
temperature, and the ocean the great equalizer. But the increase of the day corresponds so 
nearly with the diminution of the high temperature, that the mean varies but little within 
the range of the sea breeze. 

Washington and Richmond, nearly in the same latitude as San Francisco, have a mean 
of 54 or 54^, two degrees colder than the latter. This appears, at first sight, to be a small 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



277 



difference ; but its value is made evident by reflecting that it is a difference for every day in 
the year — each day of the year in San I'rancisco, from January to December, having an 
average of two degrees higher than the corresponding day on the Atlantic border. Cold as 
our summers are in proportion to those in the east, it appears that the winters are warmer, 
in still greater proportion. 

In the Atlantic States the mean annual temperature diminishes in going northward about 
one degree for every degree of latitude. This is the general rule in all climates. But the 
climate of California presents an extraordinary anomaly in this respect. Along the coast, 
from the mouth of the Columbia river to Monterey, a range of nine degrees of latitude, the 
mean temperature varies but little — not more than three or four degrees at most; and even 
this difference does not correspond exactly with the difference of latitude. On the other 
hand, the interior climate varies indefinitely, every valley having a climate of its own. The 
summers, however, are generally hotter in the north. One might start from Los Angeles, 
near the south line of the State, in summer, and travel northward, inland, 500 or 600 miles, 
and tind it growing hotter every day ; and he might go in a southeasterly course less than 
half that distance, and arriving at Fort Yuma, on the Colorado, he would find one of the 
hottest places in the world. 

The sudden fluctuations of temperature, incident to the climate of the Atlantic States, are 
unknown in California. We have none of those angry outbreaks from the northwest, which 
change summer to winter in a few hours. The sea breeze is chilling enough, especially 
when it comes in suddenly to reassert its sway, after one of the occasional warm days of sum- 
mer. But the sea breeze can never bring the thermometer down below .52°. 

In the summer months there is scarcely any fall of temperature through the night iu the 
coast climate. The early morning is sometimes clear, sometimes cloudy, but always calm. 
A windy morning iu summer is uucommon at San Francisco. A few hours after sunrise the 
clouds break away and vanish, and the sun shines forth cheerfully and delightfully ; not a 
breath of air stirring. Towards noon, or a little after, the sea breeze sets in, and the weather 
is completely changed. From 65° degrees the mercury drops to 53° or 54° long before sun- 
set, and at that point it remains almost motionless till the next morning. This is the order 
of things in three days out of four in June, July, and August. 

In the climate of the coast the nights are never uncomfortably warm. The extreme heat 
at 10 p. m. at San Francisco, for 17 years, was 75°. The thermometer reached this point on 
three different nights ; on two nights it reached 75°, on four nights 73°, on two nights 72°, 
and on five nights 70° — making only 16 evenings in 17 years when it was warm enough at 
bed-time to sit out of doors with thin clothing. The warmest morning in 17 years was 69°. 
These facts have special interest in relation to sleep. 

Though the nights in the interior are not so uniformly cool, yet there are few localities, 
even in the valleys, where they are too warm for sleeping, even though the day temperature 
may have reached 100°. This is a remarkable feature of the climate of the Pacific States, 
and it has an important bearing on the health, vigor, and character of the population. 

In the southeastern corner of the State is a section having a climate of its own. It is 
known as the Colorado desert, and is comparatively barrren of vegetation, owing to the 
small quantity of rain which falls there. The mean temperature of Fort Yuma, though not 
exactly in the desert, is, in the month of July, upwards of 100° at noon, and 90° at 9 p. m. 
In contrast with this, is the winter climate of Yreka, near the extreme northwest corner of 
the State, and representing a small alpine section bordering on Oregon. During the stormy 
weather of January, 1868, when the thermometer at Marysville and other localities in the 
north were telegraphed as ranging from 25° to 35°, at 8 a. m., the despatches from Yreka 
placed it below zero day after day, and sometimes 10° or 12° below. 

We will conclude the subject of temperature with a table, representing the mean of the 
several seasons at a number of prominent points in California, and also further northward. 
The first column gives the temperature of the spring months, March, April, and May ; and 
so on, the other seasons are arranged. The last column is the mean annual temperature. 



Localities. 


Spring. 


Suamer. 


Autumn. 


Winter. 


Year. 




o 
56.5 
56.0 
56.5 
5-1.0 
60.0 
72.0 
52.0 
52.0 
53.0 
51.0 
49.0 


o 
60.0 
6.59 
67.0 
59.0 
71.0 
90.0 
57.5 
60.0 
70.5 
61.5 
63.0 




59.0 
61.0 
60.5 
57.0 
64.5 
75.5 
53.0 
55.0 
52.0 
54.0 
51.5 


o 
51.0 
46.5 
49.0 
51.0 
52.5 
57.0 
43.5 
47.5 
35.5 
42.5 
39.5 


o 
56.6 




58.0 




58.0 




55.5 




62.0 




73.5 




51.5 


Port Orford . 


53.5 




53.0 




52.0 


Fort Steilacooia W T . 


51.0 







' The figures for these localities are probably too low. 



278 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

There is this diflference between the summer in the interior of California and tlie Atlantic 
States, that in the former it is unbroken by the showers and storms which in other regions 
temper the heat and give variety to the climate. From the beginning of June until Novem- 
ber the sky is mostly unclouded, and the sun shines oat brightly the whole day. 

The Annual Rains.— In the entire absence of rain during one portion of the year, and 
its restriction to another portion, California has but one climate. Tiiere is this difi'erence, 
however, between one part and another, that the rain commences sooner and continues later 
in the north, and that both the quantity of the rain and the duration of the rainy season 
diminish on approaching the southern part of the State, or rather on receding from the moun- 
tainous section. The rain year of California does not conform to the calendar year, but 
extends from summer to summer, embracing the latter part of one year and the former part 
of the year ensuing. The natural division is in July or August— say the first of August. 
The calendar year fails to represent properly either a dry winter or a rainy one. Thus, the 
smallest quantity of rain in any one of the 17 calendar years was 10.50 inches, in 18G5, while 
the climatic year 1850-'51 had but 7.12 inches, and 18G3-'04, 8.49. On the other hand, the 
calendar year 1865 had but 10.50 inches, or half the average supply, from which it would be 
inferred that one, at least, of the two seasons in which it enters was dry ; whereas, by refer- 
ence to the table, it appears that both of these seasons had the full supply, being a fraction 
over 21 inches. It so transpired that the rain of one season was mainly in the latter part of 
1864, and that of the latter season in the early part of 1866, leaving the intervening calendar 
year deficient. 

In seasons of scanty rains the deficiency is not confined to certain districts, as in the 
Atlantic States, but it is general. The annual supply, however, varies greatly in different 
sections. Taking the gauge at San Francisco as a basis, very nearly the same quantity falls 
in the valleys surrounding the bay, and also in the Sacramento valley as far north as the 
capital. Speaking more precisely, the quantity in Sonoma and Napa counties is greater, and 
in Santa Clara, south of the bay, rather less, than at San Francisco. Proceeding southward, 
it diminishes rapidly, the rain-fall at Los Angeles and San Diego being only one-half that of 
the bay. In the north and northeast, among the Sierras, it is generally much greater, being 
three or four times as much in some localities. 

In San Francisco [according to a table which we cannot conveniently reproduce] the rains 
of each month, during a period of 17 years, averaged as follows, in inches and fractious of 
inches: January, 4.51; February, 3.08; March, 2.76; April, 1.74; May, .82; June, .05; 
July, .02 ; August, .01 ; September, .09 ; October, .57 ; November, 2.74 ; December, 5.37. 

The greatest quantity of rain for any one month, as the table shows, was 18.14 inches, in 
January, 1862 — a winter memorable on account of destructive floods on the Pacific slope. 
The greatest quantity in any one month in eastern Pennsylvania, during a period of 30 years, 
was 13 inches; and this was in one of the summer months. So much as this never falls in 
3 winter month in the Atlantic States. For one season of excessive drought there have been 
two of excessive rain. No two seasons in succession have given as much rain as 1866-'67 
and 1867-'68. 

The rains of each season are exhibited in the following table, in juxtaposition with the 
rains of each year : 



Season. Rain. 

1850-'51 11.12 

1651-'52 18.00 

1852-'53 33.46 

ie53-'54 22.80 

1854-'55 24.10 

1655-'56 21.13 

1856-'57 19.90 

18.')7-'58 19.(15 

1858-'59 19.76 

1859-'63 17.10 

1860-61 14.54 

1861-'62 38.04 

1862-63 15.19 

1863-'C4 8.49 

1864-'65 21.30 

1865-'66 21.19 

1866-'67 32.22 

Mean 20.79 



Year. Rain. 

18.51 15.12 

1852 25.60 

1853 19.03 

1854 22.12 

1855 27.80 

1856 22.01 

1857 20.55 

1658 19.65 

1859 18.03 

1860 15.15 

1861 18.43 

1862 31.05 

1863 16.63 

1864 13. 05 

1865 10.30 

1866 32.98 

1867 33.00 

Meau 21.62 



It appears that December is the month of greatest rain. The rainy tendency reaches its 
climax about Christmas, and then diminishes gradually until the termination of the season 
of rain, towards the latter end of May. June, July, August, and September are dry, with 
exceptions so light as scarcely to deserve notice, only 2.50 inches having fallen in these four 
months collectively in 17 years. 

In almost every winter there are two rainy periods, with a drier period interposed, showing 
an analogy to the earlier and later rains of Palestine and other oriental countries. The month 
of February is the most frequent representative of the dry poiiod ; but the spriug r«ins, 
which sometimes commence in this month, and other heavy rains which occasionally fall, 
swell the aggregate so as to prevent the exhibition of a deficiency in the table. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 279 

In speaking of the "rainy season," strangers will not infer that rain is perpetual, or nearly 
so, during that time. The term is employed only to contrast with the dry season, and it 
implies the possibility rather than the actual occurrence of rain. In more than half the winter 
there is not a drop beyond the necessities of agriculture, and even in the seasons of most 
rain much very pleasant weather is interspersed. If the winter be not extraordinary, it is 
generally regarded as the most pleasant season in the year. In the intervals of rain it is 
bright, sunny, and calm. It is spring rather than winter. The grass starts as soon as the 
soil is wet. At Christmas nature wears her green uniform almost throughout the entire State, 
and in February and March it is set with floral jewels. The blossoms increase in variety 
and profusion until April, when they are so abundant in many places as to show distinctly 
the yellow carpeting on hills five miles distant. 

There is great irregularity in the time of the commencement of the rainy season. It never 
sets in before November, and sometimes not till the latter part of December. In the northern 
section the rains commence earlier than at San Francisco, and in the southern section later. 
The spring rains, which are of immense importance to agriculture, rarely fail. March is one 
of the surest months in this respect. April often gives a copious supply. There is a remarka- 
ble tendency to rain about the 20th of May, and a complete cessation soon afterwards. It 
is a striking feature of the climate, that when the weather puts on its rainy habit, the rain is 
apt to continue every day for one or two weeks, and then an interval may ensue without a 
drop for several weeks. 

The rains of California are tropical in one respect, being showery, and not often regularly 
continuous for many hours. The monotony of an easterly storm, such as the Atlantic climate 
furnishes, is almost unknown here. The sun breaks forth frequently in the midst of a shovVei', 
and directly the sky is almost clear. Presently, when it is least expected, the rain is heard 
on the roof with the suddenness of a shower-bath. 

The night is more favorable to rain than the day. No matter how dense the clouds, how 
fair the wind, how resolute the barometer in its promise of falling weather, the sun rarely 
fails to break up the arrangement before noon, and to tumble the clouds into confused masses 
or dissipate them altogether. But before night, or during the night, the clouds resume their 
function. 

The prevailing direction of the cloud-current is from south to west, and the cloud supply- 
ing the rain is mostly of the cumulo-stratus or nimbi;s form, and quite low in the sky. 
What is singular, the rain begins most frequently to the northward, although the cloud comes 
from the south. The horizon in the south may be entirely clear under these circumstances, 
the cloud forming in view, and growing denser and denser in its northward travel, until it 
precipitates the rain. 

The following table exhibits the mean quantity of rain falling at different stations, and the 
number of years on which the mean is computed. The stations are arranged in the order of 
their latitude, beginning with Fort Yuma and San Diego, which arc about on the same 
parallel : 

Localities. Term. Mean. 

Fort Yuma Four years. 3. 24 

San Diego Three years. 10.43 

Monterey Four years. 12. 20 

Stockton Four years, 15. 10 

San Francisco Seventeen years. 20. 79 

Benicia Eight years. 22. 86 

Sacramento Twelve years. 18. 23 

Placerville 1861-'62. 86.00 

Placerville 1862-'63. 26.00 

South Yuba 1861-'62. 109.00 

SouthYuba 1866-'67. 81.56 

Red Dog, Nevada county Three years. 64. 00 

Fort Jones Three years. 16. 77 

Hoopa valley, Klamath county 1861-'62. 129. 15 

Port Orford Four years. 71.63 

Astoria, Oregon One and a half year. 86. 35 

Dalles, Oregon Two years. 14. 32 

Fort Steilacoom, Washington Territory Five years. 61. 75 

A comparison with the Atlantic slope presents a striking contrast. The smallest amount 
of rain that falls in one year, in any locality on the eastern side, say 20 inches, is at least 
equal to the average annual supply in the great grain-growing valleys of California ; while, 
on the other hand, no locality on the eastern side, until you reach the tropical latitude of 
Florida, approaches the maximum of the Pacific slope. Thus California, with a range of 10 
degrees of latitude, has a minimum of 3;^ inches at Fort Yuma, with a maximum exceeding 
100 inches on the Sierras ; while the Atlantic slope, with upwards of 20 degrees of latitude, 
and an expanse of territory vastly greater, with mountainous elevations of considerable 
height, presents a niinimum of 20 inches with the same maximum as California. 



280 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

To make the contrast more striking it may .be added that the annual supply of rain has a 
greater range in California, in a distance of 5Q miles from Sacramento City, than on the 
Atlantic slope, from Maine to Florida. Two or three times as much rain may fall in a single 
night in the mountains of California as in the entire year in the southeastern corner of the 
State. 

The enormous quantity of 129 inches, at Hoopa valley, is stated on the authority of Dr. 
Kirkpatrick, of the United States army. In general, such extreme results are to be accepted 
with caution. The gauge may not have been foirly exposed, or it may have been wrongly 
graduated. But Dr. Kirkpatrick gives, in detail, the supply for each of three months, which 
seems t6 confirm his report: November, 44.10 inches; December, 23.79 inches; January, 
30.95 inches. An observer on the South Yuba, Nevada county, reports 41.95 inches as fall 
ing there in the mouth of December, 1867. Instead of being surprised at the floods in the 
Sacramento valley, we may wonder what becomes of so much water. 

It is worthy of note that Hoopa valley is but about 40 miles west of Fort Jones, where 
the annual supply is set down as 16.77 inches. Both places are on the northern border of 
the State, among the Coast mountains, and remote from the ocean. 

In reference to the climate of California and its effect upon diseases of tlie lungs, 
Lorin Blodget says : 

In California the proportion of ca&es of this class has been given imperfectly for two prints, 
on the authority of Dr. Hatch. Three years at Sacramento, which would represent the 
average of Upper California quite correctly, give 113 deaths in a total of 1,251, or 90.03 per 
1 ,000, but of this he remarks : " Certain it is, however, that few of the cases of consumptive 
diseases hitherto met with in the valley have originated here. In most if not all the instances 
the disease has been implanted before reaching the country, and the most that can be said is, 
that it has not been benefited by the change. Of admissions to the city hospital, San Fran- 
cisco, for nearly two years, August 7, 1851, to July 1, 1853, there were 84 in a total of 1,870 
belonging to the respiratory class. Of these but 11 were of consumption — 45 per 1,000 of 
all, and 5, 8 1,000 of consumption. It is believed that the cases of all diseases of this class 
originating in California will not reach four per cent, on the number of deaths, and will thus 
stand at less than one-third of the number of the eastern States. (Climatology of the United 
States, p. 475.) 



PRINCIPAL ROUTES THROUGH CALIFORNIA. 
Tables of distances, fares, and freights* 

STEAM NAVIGATION— INLAND SERVICE. 

San Francisco to Sacramento, 125 miles. — Steamer Chrysopolis, 1,300 tons, and steamer 
Yosemite, 1,100 tons, daily, at 4 p. m. ; returning, leave Sacramento at 2 p. m. Through 
fare, $4 and $o ; to Benicia, $2 ; to Rio Vista, $3. Through freight, $'3 per ton. 

San Francisco to Stockton, 127 7niles. — Steamer Julia, 600 tons, and steamer Cornelia, 600 
tons, daily, at 4 p. m. ; returning, leave Stockton at 4 p. m. Fare, $4 and $5. Freight, 
$2 50 and $3 per ton. 

Sacramento to Marysville, 45 miles. — Steamers Flora and Governor Dana, daily, at 7 a.m.; 
returning, leave Marysville at 7 a. m. Fare, $4. Freight, $5 per ton. 

Sacramento to Red Bluff, 105 miles. — Steamers Gem and Lark, every Saturday morning. 
Fare, $10. Freight, $17 per ton. 

San Francisco to Napa, 47 miles, via Vallejo and Mare Island. — Steamer Amelia, summer, 
daily, at 9 a. m. ; winter, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 10 a. m. Fare to Napa, $3; 
to Vallejo and Mare Island, §2. Freight, $2 50 per ton; grain from Vallejo, %\ per ton. 

San Francisco to Suisun, 40 miles, via Benicia. — Steamer Paul Pry, Tuesday, Thursday, 
and Saturday. Fare, $3 ; to Benicia, $2. 

' * Compiled from Holdredge's " Guide-book of the Pacific," and other authorities. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



281 



Tables of distances, fares, and freigJifs — Continued. 



CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD. 



Stations, 



Sacramento 

Arcade 

Antelope 

Junction 

Rocklin 

Pino 

Newcastle... 

Auburn 

Clipper Gap . 

Colfax 

Cisco , 



n 5ti 



$0 70 
50 
80 
20 
50 
10 
60 
30 
50 



Stt 



^ 



$1 05 
2 25 
2 70 



3 30 

3 75 

4 65 

5 40 

6 45 
8 25 



SAN FRANCISCO AND SAN JOSE RAILROAD. 



Stations. 



San Francisco . . 

Mission 

Brannan's 

Bernal 

San Mig:uel 

School House... 
12-Mile Farm... 

San Bruno 

17-Mile House . . 

San Mateo 

Belmont 

Redwood City .. 

Menlo Park 

Mayfield 

Mountain View. 
Lavvrence's- . — 

Santa Clara 

San Jose 






1 05 
J 15 
1 25 
1 25 



to .X5 
"02 



$0 20 
25 
35 
50 
60 
70 



90 
00 
25 
50 
70 
80 



2 10 
2 25 
2 40 
2 50 



sa(;ramento to Stockton. 



Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Buckner's ... . . 


14 
22 

29 
35 
50 


$2 00 
3 00 

3 50 

4 00 

5 00 




Hicksville . . .. 




Ijiberty . .. ... . 








Stockton . ... 









Steamers run at irregular intervals between Sacramento and Stockton, carrying freight 
only. 



SACRAMENTO TO NAPA. 



Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Solano House ............ 


17 
25 
35 
47 
51 
61 
65 


"$^2'6o' 
'""4'6o' 


Through freight, 5 cents per 
pound. 


Silvey ville . . . .- 


Vacaville 


Suisun 




Rockville 




Suscol 




Napa 









Connect at Suisun with stages for Benicia, and at Napa with Healdsburg with stages, and 
line for St. Helena and Calistoga. 



282 RESOURCES OF. STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Tables of distances, fares, and freifjhts — Contiuued. 

SACRAMENTO TO ICNIGHT'S LANDING. 



Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Wooclland 


20 
25 
35 


$1 50 

2 00 

3 00 


Through by team, 25 cents per 
cwt. 


Cuchcville .. . . 


Knight's Landing .. 









The Buckeye and Cache Creek mail branches off at AVoodland. 
STOCKTON TO CAMPO SECO. 



Stations. 



Waterloo 

Locust Shade 
Lockeford ... 

Poland's 

Camancho . - . 
Poverty Bar . 
Campo Seco . 



Distance. Fare, 



14 

]8 
20 
28 
30 
38 



$1 00 



Freight. 



Through freight, 4 cents per 
pound. 



Connect at Campo Seco with stages for lone City, via Winter's Bar, Lancha Plana, and 
Buena Vista. Distance, fifteen miles ; fare, $2. 



STOCKTON TO COPPEROPOLIS. 



Stations. 



Twelve-Mile House 

Farmington 

Rock Creek 

Shafer's 

Telegraph City 

Copperopolis 



Distance. 



12 

16 
21 

28 
29 
3G 



Fare. 


$2 00 

2 50 

3 00 

4 00 

4 00 

5 00 



Freight. 



Stage, 4 cts. per pound ; team, 
i cent to Telegraph City; 
stage, 4 cents per pound ; 
team, f cent to Stockton. 



STOCKTON TO SAN ANDREAS. 



Stations. 



Fifteen-Mile House 

Gorham 

Spring Valley 

San Andreas 



Distance. Fare. 



37 
45 



$2 00 



3 50 
5 00 



Freight. 



Through by express, 10 cents 
per pound ; team, 1 cent per 
pound. 



Connect with stage at Mokelumne Hill. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



283 



Tables of distances, fares, and freights — Continued, 

MARYSVILLE TO LA PORTE. 



Stations. 



Distance. 



Fare. 



Freight. 



Oroville, via Northern railroad 

Forbestown 

Clipper Mills 

Strawberry Valley - 

Eagleville 

La Porte 



28 
48 
5G 
60 
62 
74 



$2 00 



By team, $15 per ton. 



10 00 



Connect at La Force with stages for Gibsonville. 

Clipper Mills is situated near the eastern edge of Butte county, within one quarter of a 
mile of the Yuba county line, and in one of the best surgar-piuo sections of the State, 
from which large quantities of clear lumber are made for the San Francisco market. 



MARYSVILLE TO FORBESTOWN. 



Stations. 



Distance. 



Fare. 


%l 50 

2 50 

3 00 

4 00 

5 00 



Freight. 



Sewalls 

Bangor 

Miller's Ranch 
Brownsville.-. 
Forbestown . . . 



12 

20 
24 
32 
37 



Connect at Forbestown with stages for La Porto. 

MARYSVILLE TO DOWNIEVILLE. 



Stations. 



Distance. 



Fare. 



Freight. 



Brown's Valley 
Foster's Bar ... 
Camptonville .. 
Goodyear's Bar. 
Downieville . . . 



12 

36 
41 

57 
62 



$1 00 



5 00 

9 00 

10 00 



Express, 2 cents per pound. 

6 cents per pound. 

9 cents per pound. 

10 cents per pound. 



MARYSVILLE TO NORTH SAN JUAN. 



Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Empire Ranch 


16 
30 
32 
34 
37 


$2 00 
3 00 

3 50 

4 00 

5 00 


By express, in summer, | to f 
cent per pound ; in winter, 
1 to l-J- cents per pound. 


French Coral 


Birchville 


Sweetland 


North San Juan 









Freight from Lincoln, 35 miles distant, to North San Juan, in summer, f to 1 cent per 
pound ; in winter, \^ to 2 cents per pound. 
Connect at North San Juan with North Bloomfield, Forest City, and Nevada stages. 



284 



EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 



Tallies of distances, fares, ond freights — Continued. 

OAKLAND TO SOMERVILLE. 



Stations. 



Lafayette 

* Walnut Creek 

tPacbeco 

Clayton , 

Carbondale 

tSomerville . . . 



Distance. 



12 
16 
21 

30 
3.3 
35 



Fare. 


$1 00 

1 50 

2 00 
2 50 

2 75 

3 00 



Freight. 



* Connect with Danville stages. t Connect with Martinez stages. J Connect with Antioch 

WALNUT CREEK TO DANVILLE. 



Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. ' 


Freight. 


Alamo 


3 

7 


$0 50 
75 




Danville 










ANTIOCI 


1 TO SOMEHSVILLE. 


Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


• Freight. 


Somersviile 


6 


$0 50 


$4 per ton. 





Connect at Antioch with Stockton boats. 

OAKLAND TO SAN JOSf:. 



Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


San Antonio 


3 

9 

12 

17 

21 
26 
30 
42 


$0 .50 

75 

1 00 

1 00 

2 00 
2 00 
2 00 
2 50 


1 cent per pound. 
1 cent per pound. 
1 cent per pound. 

1 cent per pound. 

2 cents per pound . 
2 cents per pound. 
2 cents per pound. 
2^ cents per pound. 


San Leandro 


San Lorenzo 


Alvarado . . .... 


Centreville ... .... . . 


Mission . 


Warm Springs .. . 


San Jos6 ....... 





SAN JOSfe TO ALMADEN MINES. 



Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Mines 


12 


$1 00 









WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



285 



Tables of distances, fares, and frei'glits — Continued. 

SAN JOSE TO LOS ANGELES. 



Stations. 



Natividad 

Burus's 

Salinas , 

Cock's 

Jolone 

Plieto 

Hot Springs 

San Luis Obispo . 

Foxen's 

Santa Jnez 

Santa Barbara 

San Buenaventura 

Las Fosio 

Mountain Station., 

Lone Station , 

Los Angeles 



Distance. 



52 
G2 
82 
108 
120 
132 
166 
190 
240 
265 
310 
342 
3G2 
382 
402 
418 



Fare. 



$4 50 
6 00 
8 00 

11 00 

12 00 
14 00 
16 00 

18 00 

19 00 

20 00 
20 00 
23 00 
25 00 
28 00 

27 00 

28 00 



Freight. 



4^ cents per pound. 
6 cents per pound. 
8 cents per pound. 

11 cents per pound. 

12 cents per pound. 
14 cents per pound. 
16 cents per pound. 

18 cents per pound. 

19 cents per pound. 

20 cents per pound. 
20 cents per pound. 
23 cents per pound. 

25 cents per pound. 

26 cents per pound. 

27 cents per pound. 

28 cents per pound. 



Connect with stages for San Pedro, San Diego, San Bernardino, and Clear Lake. 



SAN J0S6 TO SOUTH SAN JUAN. 



Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Fifteen-Mile House 


15 
21 


$1 00 
1 50 


1 cent per pound. 
1^ cent per pound. 


Twenty-one-Mile House . 


Burnett's .. 


Gilroy 


30 
42 


2 00 

3 00 


2 cents per pound. 

3 cents per pound. 


San Juan 





Connect at San Juan with stages for Watsonville, Salinas, and Monterey. 

SAN JOSK TO VISALIA. 



Stations. 



Hallenbeck's 

San Luis 

Lone Willow 
Temple's ... 
Firebaum's . 
Fresno City 
Elk Horn .. 
King's River 
Cross Creek. 
Visalia 



Distance. 



50 

66 

84 

98 

110 

128 

150 

168 

180 

192 



Fare. 



$5 00 
7 CO 
9 00 
11 00 
14 00 
IV 00 

20 00 

21 00 
23 00 
25 00 



Freight. 



5 cents per pound. 
7 cents per pound. 
9 cents per pound. 
1 1 cents per pound. 
14 cents per pound. 
17 cents per pound. 

20 cents per pound. 

21 cents per pound. 
23 cents per pound. 
25 cents per pound. 



Connect with 10. 30 a. m. train from San Francisco, 
three days. 



Semi-weekly in winter ; through iij 



286 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Tables of distances, fareSy and freights — Continued. 

SAN JOSfe TO LEXINGTON. 



Station. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 






$1 00 


50 cents per 100 pounds. 









PETALUMA TO BODEGA. 



Stations. 



Distance. 



Fare. 



Freight. 



Stony Point 
Sebastopol. 
Bodega 



8 
16 
26 



$1 00 
2 00 
2 50 



Express ^ cent per pound. 
Express 1 cent per pound. 
Express 1 cent per pound. 



Connect at Petaluma with boats for San Francisco, and stages for Clovcrdale and Mendo- 
cino. 

PETALUMA TO CLOVERDALE. 



Stations. 



Distance. 


Fare. 


16 


|1 50 


22 


2 00 


26 


2 25 


32 


3 00 


39 


3 50 


49 


4 50 



Freight. 



Santa Rosa 
Mark West 

Windsor 

Heardsburg 
Geyservilie 
Cloverdale. 



I cent per pound. 

1 cent per pound. 
1^ cent per pound. 

Team, 50 cents per 100 pounds. 
If cent per pound. 

2 cents per pound. 



Connect at Heardsburg with stages for Skaggs's and the Geyser Springs. 
Connect at Cloverdale with stages for Big River and Ukiah, and Long Valley. 

PETALUMA TO DUNCAN'S MILL. 



Stations. 



Two Rock Valley. 

Bloomtiekl , 

Valley Ford 

Bodega Corners . . . 

Bodega Bay 

Duncan's Point. .. 
Duncan's Mill 



Distance. 


Fare. 


8 


$1 00 


14 


1 50 


18 


2 00 


22 


2 50 


27 


3 00 


31 


3 50 


36 


4 00 



Freight. 



J cent per pound. 
J cent per pound, 
f cent per pound. 
1 cent per pound. 
1 cent per pound. 
1 cent per pound. 
1 cent per pound. 



SUISUN TO KNOXVILLE. 



Stations. 



Gordon Valley 

Big Caiion 

Berrcyesa Valley 

Sulphur Spring House. 
Knoxville 



Distance. 



25 
30 
44 

50 



Fare. 



$2 50 

3 00 

4 00 

5 00 



Freight. 



1 cent per pound. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
Tables of distances j fares, and frehjliis — Continued. 



NAPA TO tTPPER LAKE. 



287 



Stations. 




Fare. 



Freight. 



Sebastopol... 
St. Helena... 

Calistoga 

Lower Lake . 
Kelsey Creelc 

l^akeport 

Upper Lake . 



$0 50 

1 00 

2 00 
7 00 

7 50 

8 50 
10 00 



Ccuuect at Napa with Sacramento stages and boats for San Francisco. 

LOS ANGELES TO SAN DIEGO. 



Stations. 



Distance. 



Fare. 



Freight. 



Anaheim 

San Juan Capistrano 

San Luis Rey 

San Dieso 



30 

60 

93 

130 



$3 00 
6 00 
8 00 

12 00 



LOS ANGELES TO SAN BERNARDINO. 



Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


El Monte 


14 
30 
45 

65 


$1 GO 
2 50 

4 00 

5 00 




Mud fe'i)rin£rs 




Sosaiiion<''o . ...... ...... .^.. .... 




San Bernardino 


2^ cents per pound. 





Connect with Los Angeles and San Jos6 stages, and Los Angeles and Cleveland 

LOS ANGELES TO SAN PEDRO. 



Stations. 



Sausee 

Los Cuervos 
Wilmington - 
San Pedro . . . 



Distance. 



7 
11 
22 
26 



Fare. 



^0 25 
25 
50 
50 



Freight. 



288 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Table of distances from Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, and from San Francisco, 
California, to various ports of the Pacific and the world ; incjiared by J. 
H. Riley, Bureau of Statistics, Treasury Department, and verified by J. E. 
Hilgard, esq.. United States Coast Survey Office, to accompany statistical 
report on the Sandwich Islands. 



From — 



To- 



Shortest dis- 
tances. 



Shortest sail- 
ing routes. 



Honolulu. ... 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do , 

Do 

Do. 

Do 

Do , 

Tin 

Do 

Do 

Do 

San Francisco . 

Do , 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do.. 

Do 

Do , 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Aspinwall 

Panama 

Do 

Do 



New York, via Cape Horn 

New York, via Panama 

Panama, New Granada 

Callao, Peru 

Valparaiso, Chili 

Acapulco, Mexico 

Mazatlan, Mexico 

Guaymas, Mexico 

Cape San Lucas, Mexico 

San Diego, California 

San Francisco, California 

Portland, Oregon 

Victoria, Victoria Island 

New Westminster, British Columbia.. 
New Archangel, (Sitka Isl'd,) Alaska. 

Yokohama, Japan 

Canton, China 

Sydney, New South Wales 

Melbourne, Victoria 

Jeddo, via Honolulu 

Shanghai, via Honolulu 

Hong Kong, via Honolulu 

Sydney, via Honolulu 

Melbourne, via Honolulu 

Calcutta, via Honolulu 

New York, via Cape Horn 

New York, via Panama ^.. 

Panama 

Callao 



NauVl miles. 



Valparaiso 

Acapulco, Mexico 

Manzanillo, Mexico 

Mazatlan, Mexico 

Guaymas, Mexico 

Cape San Lucas, Mexico 

San Diego, California 

Portland, Oregon 

Victoria, Vancouver's Island 

New Westminster, British Columbia. 

New Archangel, (Sitka Island) 

Kanagawa, japan 

Milford Haven, England 

Tahiti, Society Islands 

Sydney, New South Wales 

Canton, China 



4,320 
4,560 
5,172 
5,928 
3, 282 
2,856 
2, 580 
2,658 
2,262 
2, 080 
2,256 
2,310 
2, 358 
2,370 
3,354 
4,848 
4,405 
4,810 
4,460 
5, 328 
6,012 
6, 456 
6,860 
6,810 



2,836 

3,9J2 

5, 124 

1,740 

1,472 

1,200 

864 

1,104 

400 

462 

654 

690 

1,284 



4, 390 
4, 430 
7,638 
8,760 



NaiiVl miles. 
14, 376 

6, 
4, 



587 
560 
364 
990 
282 
856 
012 
658 
262 
080 
330 
330 
410 
370 
475 
017 
820 
280 
580 
740 
000 
700 
160 
380 
000 
287 
260 
010 
300 
850 
550 
syO 
530 
145 
450 
570 
745 
815 
1,290 
4,900 
4,500 
4,540 
7,690 
9,577 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 289 

SECTION XXII. 

GENEEAL SUMMAEY. 

AREA OF CALIFORNIA, ARABLE LANDS, POPULATION, PRODUCT OF PRECIOUS METALS, 
SHIPMENTS OF TREASURE, COINAGE, &.C. 

The Comiuissioner of tlie General Land Office, in bis Report for 1867, says : 

California extends along^ the Pacific coast 750 miles, with an average breadth of 230. Its 
area is 188,931 square miles, or 120,947,840 acres, of which not less than 89,000,000, includ- 
ing swamp and tule lands capable of reclamation, are suited to some kinds of profitable hus- 
bandry. Of these over 40,000,000 are fit for the plough, and the remainder present excellent 
facilities for stock-raising, fruit-growing, and all the other branches of agriculture. This agri- 
cultural area exceeds that of Great Britain and Ireland, or the entire peninsula of Italy. The 
State also contains about 40,000,000 of acres of mineral land, unsurpassed for productiveness. 

About 30,000,000 of acres have been surveyed, leaving a residue unsurveyed of 90,000,000. 
Nearly 9,000,000 have been granted to the State by the general government, under various 
acts of Congress, for common schools, agricultural colleges, public buildings, and internal 
improvements. 

Of the 40,000,000 acres of arable land, 14,000,000 are found in the basin of the Sacramento 
and San Joaquin rivers, 10,000,000 in the coast valleys, and the residue in the region called 
the "Colorado desert," in Owen's river valley and the Klamath basin. When irrigation is 
practiced on an extensive scale, as it must be within a few years, and the valley of the Col- 
orado is brought under its influence, much of what is now characterized as "desert" will 
become productive and valuable. The land not fit for the plough, but valuable for grazing 
and in a measure for horticultural purposes, especially the grape culture, is to be found on 
the foot-hills and slopes of the Sierra Nevada and Coast Eange mountains. 

Langley, in Lis Pacific Coast Directory, estimates that 65,000,000 acres are 
adapted to ac:riculture, 15,000,000 to grazing purposes, that 4,000,000 are swamp 
aixl overflowed lands ; also, that the greater portion of the latter is capable of 
reclamation, and is to a great extent each year being added to the cultivated 
lands of the State. The area of lakes, bays and mountains lie estimates at 
14,000,000. 

Of the 65,000,000 acres of agricultural land, [says the same authority, ] there were returned 
by the county assessors, for the year 1865, as under fence, 4,055,690 acres, and under culti- 
vation 1,504,680 acres. It will thus be seen that there is but six per cent, of the agricultural 
land of the State under fence, and little over two and one-half per cent, under cultivation. 
The returns for 1866 will increase these estimates about 15 per cent. 

19 



290 



EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 



[From Langley's Pacific Coast Directory.] 

TaUe exhibiting the countij seats of the different counties, legal distances, population 

of 1S60 and lS66,d'C. 



gSSS 



Counties. 



Alameda — 

Alpine 

Amador 

Butto 

Calaveras 

Colusa 

Contra Costa 

Del Norte • . . 

EI Dorado 

Fresno 

Humboldt , 

Inyo 

Kern 

Klamath 

Lake 

Lassen 

Los Angeles...' , 

Blariu 

Mariposa 

IMendocino 

Merced 

Mono 

Monterey 

Napa 

Nevada 

Placer 

Plumas 

Sacramento 

San Bernardino 

San Diego. 

San Francisco 

San Joaquin 

Saa Luis Obispo 

San Slatco 

Santa Barbara 

Santa Clara 

Santa Cruz 

Shasta 

Sierra 

Siskiyou ^ 

Solano 

Sonoma 

Stanislaus 

Sutter 

Tehama 

Trinity 

Tulare 

Tuolumne 

Yolo 

Yuba 



Total 



County seat. 



San Leandro 

Silver Mountain . 

Jackson 

Oroville 

San Andreas 

Colusa 

Martinez 

Crescent City 

Placei'ville 

Millerton 

Eureka 

Independence . . . 

Havilah 

Orleans Bar 

Lakeport 

Susan ville 

Los Angeles 

San Kal'ael 

Mariposa 

Ukiah 

Snelling 

Bridgeport 

Monterey 

Napa City 

Nevada City 

Auburn 

Quincy 

Sacramento 

San Bernardino. . 

San Diego 

San Francisco ... 

Stockton 

San Luis Obispo. 
Redwood City... 
Santa Barbara.. 

San JoB§ 

Santa Cruz 

Shasta 

Downieville 

Yreka 

Fairiield 

Santa llosa 

Knight's Ferry . 

Yuba City 

UedBlufi' 

Weaverville .. . 

Visalia 

Souora 

AVoodland 

Marysville 



§3 
« S S 



Miles. 

i;i5 

1-1 'J 

55 

75 

60 

75 

90 

465 

50 

190 

390 

t 

t 

450 

120 

SCO 

530 

135 

145 

f 

115 

260 

245 

60 

65 

35 

145 

Capital. 

fiOO 

750 

117 

51 

335 

140 

435 

1.50 

245 

185 

no 

350 
90 
130 
85 
50 
145 
255 
250 
115 
16 
50 



1853 
18G4 
16.54 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1857 
1850 
185G 
1853 
1866 
1866 
1851 
1861 
1864 
1850 
1850 
18.50 
1850 
1855 
1861 
1850 
1850 
1851 
1851 
1854 
1850 
18.54 
18.50 
1856 
1850 
18.50 
1856 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1852 
1852 
1850 
1850 
1854 
1850 
1856 
1851 
1852 
18.50 
1850 
1850 



8,926 



10, 933 
12, 107 
16, 302 
2,274 
5, 328 
1,992 
20, 562 
4,605 
2, 694 



1, 803 



11,336 
3, 334 
6,243 
3, 967 
1,141 



4,739 
5,515 

16,447 

13,270 
4, 303 

24,145 
5,554 
4,326 

56, 805 
9, 434 
1,782 
3,214 
3, 545 

11,912 
4, 945 

4, 360 
11, 3S9 

7, 629 
7,170 
11,867 
2,245 

3, 390 
4,044 

5, 125 

4, 638 
16, 229 

4,716 
13, 671 



380, 016 



2,278 

612 

2,591 

2,856 

3,635 

699 

1,480 

306 

5,071 

451 

665 



261 

618 

554 

1, 299 

1, 095 

1,609 

1,354 

291 

305 

779 

1,328 

4,577 

3, 792 

1, 497 

5,956 

736 

294 

21,019 

3, 276 

408 

977 

423 

3,1.32 

1,426 

1,471 

3,088 

1, 882 

2,163 

4,362 

623 

1,263 

846 

1,114 

1,167 

3,155 

1,128 

3.203 






4, 631 

231 
2, 816 
2,806 
3,600 

956 
2,682 

289 
3, 892 

486 

1,601 

28 



197 

995 

426 

3,882 

1,347 

1,2.53 

2,301 

596 



103, 135 



2,123 
2,175 
4,970 
3, 123 

982 
6,914 
1, 679 

454 

30, 694 

5,143 

856 
1,544 
1,641 
6,509 
2,780 
1,276 
1, 555 
1,727 
4,755 
7,585 

940 
1, 7.39 
1,016 

728 
1, 363 
2,951 
2,125 
3,126 



15, 4.30 



9,380 
9,350 
12, 000 
3, 180 
8,9C0 



12, 970 
1,680 
5,330 



3,350 
1,420 
12, 940 
4,.490 
4,170 
7,670 
1,980 



137, 498 



7,000 
7,250 

16, 560 

10,410 
3,670 

23, 000 

5, 26U 

1,500 

102, 313 

17, 140 
2,850 
5,148 
5,470 

21,696 
9,260 
4,250 
5,180 
5, 756 

15, 850 

25, 280 
3,460 
5,796 
3,386 
2, 426 
4,890 
9,836 
7,080 

10, 420 



456. 437 



$4, 533, 560 

450, OCO 

1, 907, 252 

5, 128, 358 

1,890,657 

1, 689, 155 

2, 544, 282 

379, 025 

3, 476, 526 

826, 000 

2,,2C0, OCO 

+500, 000 

819,825 

288, 089 

395, 708 

1750, 000 

2, 353, 392 

2, 247, 571 

1, 237, 470 

1, 900. 000 
842, 847 
357,961 

1, 265, 450 

2, 797, 688 

5, 173, 837 

2, 826, 243 

1, 192, 521 

10,316,976 

695, 201 

448, 706 

88, 402, 274 

5, 275, 016 

758, 330 

2, 700, 000 
771, 861 

7, 972, 899 
1,441,739 
1, 091, 723 
2,314,096 
1,617,822 

3, 044, 120 
5, 346, 086 
1,026,216 
1, 778, 268 
1, 598, 500 

653, 189 
1,299,379 
J2, 300, 000 
2,156,427 
4, 150, 500 



197, 133, 345 



Note.— Total estimated population in 1867, 480,000. 

* The figures in the above table referring to the population of this State for 1866 are talcen from the report 
of the State Buperintendeut of public schools, Mr. John Svvett, and are estimated upon the basis that the 
school children under fifteen years of age constitute thirty per cent, of the jjopulation. In the absence of 
official data, this is probably as fair a mode as can be adopted to arrive at an approximation of the population 
of our State. We think, however, that the estimate for San Francisco is at least 18,000 too low. — Compiler. 
t Not yet defined by law. J Estimated. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



291 



Statement of tJie number of passengers lij sea arriving at and departing from the 
port of San Francisco during the first, second, third, and fourth quarters of 
1867, as declared at the custom-house. 





Arrivals. 


Departures. 






C 
CI 


1-1 


r. 

a 
s 


3 

o 


C3 


1 


u 

X. 

a 
s 

CO 


s 


o 


Panama, New Granada 


3,089 

1,766 

242 

4C3 

12 

4 

1&3 

193 

145 

20 


6,4C9 

1,519 

236 

2,129 


5,654 

1,674 

341 

1, 429 
6 


5,630 

1, 835 

405 

273 

13 


20, 782 

6,791 

1,224 

4,294 

31 

4 

1,267 

593 

544 

139 


2,227 
867 
77 
424 

1 


3,168 

1,413 

134 

410 


2,194 

1,005 

120 

1,232 


2,434 

1,055 

71 

2,433 

1 


10,074 
4,340 


Victoria, British Columbia 


402 
4,499 




4 


Eastern ports, direct 




315 
73 

227 
18 


702 

230 

67 

47 


98 

^ 97 

105 

54 








67 

107 

99 

14 


67 




156 
63 

15 


111 

51 

9 


67 

47 

344 


441 




260 




382 






Total 


6,086 


10, 926 


10, 150 


8,510 


35, 672 


3,881 


5,296 


5,011 


6, 281 


20, 469 







RECAPITULATION. 





1st quarter. 


2d quarter. 


3d quarter. 


4th quarter. 


Total. 




6,086 
3,881 


10, 926 
5,296 


10, 150 
5,011 


8,510 
6,281 


35 672 




20,469 




Gain 


2, 205 


5,630 


5, 139 


2,229 


15, 203 







One of the most agreeable features of the past year is the increase in popnhition which 
reached our shores during its passage. The arrivals during the second and third quarters were 
more numerous than in the first and fourth quarters, while the departures for the fourth quarter 
exceed those of any other. This we believe to be contrary to the general rule. Heretofore 
the greatest number of arrivals by sea have been during the last quarter, and the departures 
fewer. People at the east are generally more anxious to leave when the rigors of their severe 
winters commence, while those who have been residents of the Pacific coast usually evince 
more desire to go eastward when the spring has fairly opened and om- winds commence. 
During the year 1S67 the arrivals by sea exceeded the departures by 15,203. But we have 
also received large additions overland. Our probable increase from abroad will reach 27,000 
souls. Large numbers are known to be on their way from Sweden, Germany, and Norway, 
and considerable tracts of fine farming land have already been purchased and made ready for 
their reception. — [Commercial Herald and Market Review. 



PRODUCT OF PRECIOUS METALS, ETC. 

Receipts and Exports of Teeasuee. — The following tables derived from 
official sources are copied from tlie Commercial Herald and Market Review : 



TREASURE PRODUCT, IMPORTS, ETC. 

The receipts of treasure from all sources through regular public channels during the past 
twelve months, as compared with 1866, have been as follows : 

1866. 1867. 

From California northern mines $38,715,340 $40,927,309 

From California southern mines 5,149,749 4,477,461 

From Coastwise ports, Oregon, &c 5, 940, 536 6, 192, 734 

Imports, foreign, British Columbia, &c 2, 887, 028 3, 969, 322 

Total 52,692,653 55,566,826 



292 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TEREITORIES 



From an examination of the statements of treasure received in this city, it -will be seen that 
there has been an increase of more than $2,000,U00 in the amount received from the northern 
mines the past over the preceding year ; the greater portion of this increment being due to 
the State of Nevada. The receipts from the southern mines have meantime fallen off mate- 
rially, while those from coastwise ports, Oregon, &c., have increased slightly, and those from 
British Columbia and other foreign ports very considerably. The bullion transmitted the 
past year to this city, through Wells, Fargo & Go's, express, as being the product of the 
State of Nevada, amounted to $18,000,000. To this sum may be added, perhaps, ,$.500,000 
to represent the amount of bullion arriving during the year in private hands, making a total 
product for that State for 1867 of $18,500,000. Of this sum about $2, 000,000 may be .set down 
as the product of Ree.se river and other outside localities, leaving the balance $16,000,000 to be 
credited to the Comstock lode. In apportioning the product of these several outside localities, 
about $1,500,000 should be set down to account of what is usually termed the Reese river 
country, which, for the end in view, should be made to embrace all the outlying districts about 
Austin; in fact, thewhole of Lander, Nye, and Lincoln counties, excepting, perhaps, the Silver 
Peak district, which lies in Esmeralda county, and which has turned out but little bullion 
the past year. The remaining half million may be divided between Hnmboldt and Esmeralda 
counties iu the following proportions: $300,000 for the former, and $200,000 for the latter, 
none of' the other counties in the State, except Storey, containing the Comstock lode, pro- 
ducing any bullion worth naming. These figures, as will be seen, denote for the year in 
question a very marked increase in the State at large over the yield of any former year ; this 
rate of increase being in about the same ratio for the Comstock lode and the outside precincts. 
The product of the former for 186G was estimated at $16,250,000, and of the other localities 
named, $1,250,000, of which $1,000,000 was assigned to Reese river, and $250,000 to Hum- 
boldt and Esmeralda. While, however, such gratifying gains have, during this period, sig- 
nalized the progress of Nevada, the year has rather been one of preliminary preparation than 
of progress and fruition ; the most of the companies owning what may bo considered the more 
promising of the outside mines, having been engaged at heavy expense in developing their 
claims, and erecting mills — very few of them in active productive operation. These mills will 
soon be completed, and the mines be thoroughly explored, and placed in condition to yield 
ores largely, rendering it probable that still more marked additions will be made to the bullion 
returns of the State the present than was done the past year, and almost insuring for that 
State a total product for 1868 of $20,000,000. Even if the Comstock mines should not 
advance their yield, or should suffer some small abatement, this result will probably be attained, 
as there is an almost certainty of the mines at Silver Peak and those about Belmont turning 
out a large amount of bullion the current year, to say nothing of the promised gains for 
Humboldt and Esmeralda. 

The following table shows the value and destination of treasure shipments from this port 
during the past 14 years — from 1854 to 1867, inclusive : 



Years , 


East'n ports. 


England. 


China. 


Panama. 


Other ports. 


Totals. 


1854.... 


$46,533,166 


$3,781,080 


$965, 887 


$204,592 


$560, 908 


$52, 045, 633 


1855.... 


38, 730, 564 


5, 182, 156 


889, 675 


231,207 


128, 129 


45,161,731 


1856.... 


39, 895, 294 


8, 666, 289 


1,308,852 


253, 268 


573, 732 


50, 697, 434 


1857.... 


35,531,778 


9, 347, 743 


2, 993, 264 


410,929 


692, 978 


48, 976, 692 


1858.... 


35,891,236 


9, 265, 739 


1,916,007 


299, 265 


175,779 


41, 548, 026 


1859.... 


40,146,437 


3,910,9.30 


3,100,756 


279, 949 


202, 390 


47, 640, 462 


I860.... 


35, 719, 296 


2, 672, 936 


3, 374, 680 


300,819 


258, 185 


42, 325, 916 


1861.... 


32,628,011 


4,061,779 


3,541,279 


349,769 


95, 920 


40,676,758 


1862.... 


26,194,035 


12,950,140 


2, 660, 754 


434, 508 


322, 324 


42,561,761 


1863.... 


10, 389, 330 


28, 467, 256 


4,206,370 


2, 503, 296 


505, 667 


46,071,920 


1864.... 


13,316,122 


34, 436, 423 


7, 888, 973 


378, 795 


686, 888 


56, 707, 201 


1865.... 


20, 583, 390 


15, 432, 639 


6,963,522 


1,224,845 


1,103,832 


45, 308, 227 


1866..-. 


29,244,891 


6, 532, 208 


6, 527, 287 


511,550 


1,548,457 


44, 364, 393 


1867.... 


23, 355, 903 


5,841,184 


9,031,-504 


372, 552 


3, 075, 149 


41,676,292 


Totals. 


428, 159, 453 


150, 548, 502 


55, 368, 810 


7,755,344 


9, 930, 338 


651,762,446 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



293 



RECEIPTS OF TREASURE. 



The following tables comprise the receipts of coined and uncoined treasure from the inte- 
rior and coastwise during the years 1865, 1866, and 1867 : 



FROM THE NORTHERN MINES. 





1865. 


1860. 


1867. 




Uncoined. 


Coined. 


Total. 


Uncoined. 


Coined. 


Total. 


Uncoined. 


Coined. 


Total. 




.$3, 236, 768 


$440, 637 
245, 174 
216, 853 
279, 5^4 
211,808 
271, 438 
274, 776 
2r.9, 118 
185, 342 
225, 977 
250, 853 
281,630 


.$3, 677, 405 

3, 240, 337 

4, 092, 184 
3, 537, 924 
4,063,341 
3, 687, 742 
3,13.5,606 
3,267,122 
2, 798, 965 
2, 914, 056 
2,865,071 
2, 462, 694 


.$2, 347, 832 
2, 846, 130 

2, 567, 000 
2,951.030 

3, 523, 482 
3, 357, 702 
3,158,584 
3, 293, 276 
2, 802, 649 
3, 128, 320 
2,621,219 
2, 595, 531 


$452, 288 
173, 030 
182, 000 
599,415 
360, 670 
230, 373 

445, oao 

243, 097 
241,443 

198, 420 
196, 337 
200, 512 


.$2, 800, 120 
3, 019, 160 

2, 749, 000 

3, 550, 445 
3,884,152 
3, 588, 075 
3, 603, 584 
3, 536, .373 
3, 044, 092 
3, 326, 740 
2,817,556 
2, 796, 043 


$3, 077, 269 
2,262,155 
2,719,4.36 
3, 943, 605 
3, 521, 435 
3, 465, 576 
3,701,011 
3, 736, 035 
3, 101, 754 
3, 082, 637 
2, 968, 419 
1, 996, 695 


$439, 264 
265, 857 
281,876 
246, 910 
250, 354 
273, 403 
291, 524 
209, 890 
185, 920 
307, 219 
253, 263 
343, 202 


$3,516,533 

2, .528, 012 
3, 001, 312 
4, 190, 515 

3, 771, 789 
3, 738, 979 
3, 993, 135 
3, 945, 925 
3, 287, 674 
3, 389, 856 
3, 221. 682 
2, 341, 897 


Feb 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

Aug 

Sept 

Oct 

Kov 

Dec ...... 


2, 995, 163 

3, 875, 331 
3, 258, 420 
3,851,533 
3, 410; 334 

2, 860, 830 

3, 058, 004 
2, 613, 623 
2, 688, 079 
2,614,218 
2,181,064 


Total... 


36, 649, 337 


3, 093, 110 


39, 742, 447 


35, 192, 755 


3, 522, 585'38, 715, 34o[37, 578, 627 


3, 348, 682 40, 927, 309 

1 



FROM THE SOUTHERN MINES. 



Jan 


$425, 711 


$123, 374 


$549, 085 


$289, 984 


$138, 836 


$428, 820 


$220, 367 


$166, 707 


$387, 074 


Feb 


386, 287 


72, 283 


458, 570 


308, 716 


65,431 


374, 147 


203, 918 


57, 452 


261, 370 


March 


530,210 


129, 073 


659, 283 


250, 000 


57, 000 


307, 000 


203, 250 


98, 674 


301,924 


April 


471, 963 


79, 600 


551, .563 


355, 295 


64, 479 


419,774 


287, 478 


123, 275 


410,753 


May 


501, 267 


135, 444 


G36, 711 


269, 045 


84, 080 


353, 125 


290, 543 


130, 600 


421, 143 


June 


433,818 


86, 534 


520, 352 


006,168 


119, 350 


415.518 


314,402 


114, 107 


428, 509 


July 


408, 903 


136, 363 


545, 266 


306, 373 


70, 432 


376,805 


309, 66i 


87, 910 


397, 571 


Aug 


407, 355 


100, 404 


507, 759 


3U9, 361 


79, 595 


388, 956 


262,188 


75 825 


338, 013 


Sept 


421,033 


82,261 


503, 294 


256, 683 


97, 608 


354, 291 


237, 027 


1C4, 909 


341, 996 


Oct 


437, 274 


156, 642 


.593, 916 


488, 450 


87, 614 


576, 064 


263, 726 


132, 028 


395, 757 


Kov 


373, 433 


122, 935 


496, 368 


490, 300 


92, 330 


582, 630 


254, 921 


184, 837 


439, 758 


Dec 


311,159 


95, 634 


406, 793 


486, 600 


86, 019 


572, 619 


165, 873 


187, 72] 


353, 594 


Total . . . 


5, 108, 413 


1, 320, 547 


6,428,960 


4, 106, 975 


1,042,774 


5, 149, 749 


3, 013, 356 


1, 464, 105 


4, 477, 461 



COASTWISE. 



Jan 


$333, 123 


$128,611 


$461,734 


$257, 930 


$30, 853 


$288, 783 


$344, 440 


$15, 381 


$359, 821 


Feb 


219,926 


59, 978 


279, 904 


174,219 


80, 972 


255, 191 


128, 799 


10, 884 


139, 683 


March . . . 


167,411 


40,911 


208, 322 


197, 023 


20, 577 


217, 600 


119, 398 


23, 284 


142, 682 


April 


291, 949 


60, 873 


352, 822 


274, 620 


29, 974 


304, 594 


344, 075 


7, 450 


351, 525 


May 


362, 150 


47, 975 


410, 134 


411,427 


90, 956 


502, 383 


380, 780 


11,636 


392, 416 


June 


791, 928 


52, 669 


844, 597 


460, 132 


42, 388 


502,- 520 


366, 265 


■ 8, 976 


375, 241 


July 


823, 641 


31,269 


854,910 


680, 953 


37, 591 


718, 544 


760, 693 


214, 744 


975, 437 


Aug 


786, 533 


32, 241 


818, 799 


932, 392 


56, 959 


989, 351 


1,006,186 


2,536 


1, 008. 722 


Sept 


954, 813 


28, 876 


983, 689 


621,426 


7,618 


629, 044 


490, 853 


5,556 


496. 409 


Oct 


634, 116 


23, 864 


657, 980 


559, 212 


54, 055 


613, 267 


744, 340 


80, 980 


825, 329 


Nov 


794, 085 


16,818 


810, 903 


412, 183 


45, 300 


457, 483 


536, 548 


100, 520 


637, 068 


Dee 


788, 802 


24, 180 


812, 982 


415, 583 


32, 193 


447, 776 


442, 951 


45, 4.50 


488, 401 


Total . . . 


6, 948, 511 


548, 265 


7, 496, 776 


5, 397, 100 


529,436 


5,926,536 


5, 665, 337 


527, 397 


6, 192, 734 



RECAPITULATION. 





1865. 


18G6. 


1867. 


Uncoined 


$48, 706, 261 
4, 961, 922 


$44, 696, 830 
5, 094, 895 


$46, 257, 320 


Coined 


5, 340, 184 






Total 


53, 668, 183 


49, 791, 725 


51, 597, 504 







294 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TliRRITORIES 



Statement of the amount and destination of treasure exported from San Francisco 
during the year ending December 31, 1SG7, as declared at tlie custom-house. 

TO NEW YORK. 

InJanuary $2,809,235 55 

In February 1,396,207 24 

In March 1,646,058 86 

In April 1,186,780 34 

InM'ay 2,535,232 56 

In June 2,661,643 57 

In July 2,389,688 29 

InAugust 1,610,041 45 

InSeptember 1,337,755 30 

In October 1,024,552 18 

InNovember 1,957,828 43 

InDecember 2,800,881 68 

$23,355,903 45 

TO ENGLAND. 

InJanuary 703,070 85 

In February 384,098 00 

In March .--.. 357,661 60 

In April 297,174 02 

InMay 788,772 13 

InJune 502,834 36 

In July 616,302 22 

InAugust 515,691 91 

InSeptember 493,065 34 

InOctober 704,600 43 

InNovember 321,514 42 

InDecember 156,408 71 

5, 841, 183 99 

TO FRANCE. 

In Januaiy 122,331 56 

InFebruary 105,079 91 

InMarch 67,000 00 

In April 69,537 25 

luMay 101,509 48 

In June 117,400 57 

In July 183,751 64 

InAugust 234,905 70 

In September 106,600 42 

In October 34,772 40 

In November 65, 555 27 

InDecember , 74,791 53 

— 1,283,235 73 

TO CHINA. 

In January 806,076 27 

InFebruary 376,206 32 

In March 110,642 72 

In April 1,081,513 57 

InMay 760,027 73 

InJune 698,933 73 

InJuly „ 1,746,078 69 

In August 385,540 53 

InSeptember 1,180,308 18 

In October 1,119,629 84 

InDecember 766,546 77 

9,031,504 35 

TO JAPAN. 

InJanuary 21,685 46 

InMarch 10,000 00 

InApril 2,238 72 

InMay 2,845 00 

InJuly 1,100 00 

InSeptember 10,000 00 

InOctober 650 00 

InDecember 593,430 34 

. 641,949 52 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



295 



TO PANAMA. 

In January $30,000 00 

InFebriiary 30,000 00 

InMarch-. 30,000 00 

InApril 29,000 00 

InMay - 30.000 00 

In June 30,000 00 

In July 30,000 00 

In August 32,127 40 

In September 40,000 00 

In October 30,000 00 

InNovember 31,424 30 

InDecember 30,000 00 



$372,551 70 



TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 

InFebraary 20,000 00 

InApril 45,550 00 

InMay 28,400 00 

InJune 8,000 00 

In July 3,000 00 

In October - 8,G60 00 • 

InDecember 58,370 00 

171,980 00 

TO IIAWAHAN ISLANDS. 

liiApri^ 1.300 00 

InJune 1,000 GO 

In July 1,000 00 

InAugust 5,000 00 

In October 18,906 00 

InNovember 29,826 42 

57,032 45 

TO MEXICO. 

InJanuary 10,000 00 

InFebruary 3,000 00 

InMarch 13,000 00 

In October 5,000 00 

InDecember 11,000 00 

42,000 00 

TO VALPARAISO. 

InFebruary 399,849 08 

InMarch 323,601 89 

723,450 97 

TO TAHITI. 

InFebruary... 500 00 

TO VICTORIA. 

InFebruary 50,000 00 

In October 80,000 00 

InDecember 25,000 00 

155,000 00' 

Total,1867 *4I, 670,722 16 

Total,lS66 44,364,393 05 

Decrease this year 2,688,100 89 



* To the figitres representing the amount of treasure shipped hence in 1867 would justlj' be added about. 
$6,000,000 sent east by the United States sub-treasurer in this city, whereby the total sum sent out of tho; 
country reached $48,000,000 for the last year. This officer shipped on government account $11,500,000 iu 1S6G,-, 
though, so near as we can learn, not over $6,000,000 were shipped by him last year. 



296 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Amount or Bullion Assayed and Taxed. — The following table, pre- 
pared at the office of the Commissioner of Internal Revenue, shows the total 
amount of bullion produced in the United States, upon which the revenue tax 
of one-half of one per cent, has been collected during the calendar year 1S67.* 
It should be obsei-ved that the bullion is not always assayed and assessed in the 
State or Territory in which it is produced. California, for example, shows a 
total estimated value of gold and silver bullion in coin of $28,840,139; this 
includes a considerable portion of the product of Idaho, AVashington Territory, 
and Oregon. Nearly all the bullion produced in Nevada is assessed in that 
State ; whilst in New York and Pennsylvania the assessments are upon bullion 
deposited there from other sources. The table, therefore, is chiefly valuable as 
showing the aggregate product upon which taxes have been collected. The 
total value assessed, viz : $58,175,047, and the actual product for 1867, as esti- 
mated in letter to the Secretary of the Treasury, (page 3,) viz : $75,000,000, 
show a diiference of $16,824,953. Of this amount a portion may be accounted 
for as remaining unassayed, and some may have escaped taxation. 

Statement slioiving the tax returned on lidlion as assayed from each Stcde and Ter- 
ritory of the United States for tlie calendar year 1867; also^ the value of the 
hidlion in currency and its estimated value in coin, assuming that the average 
premium on gold for the year ivas 38f per cent, or that one dollar in currency 
tvas ivorth seventy-two cents in coin. 



Stiites and Territories. 



California — 

Colorado 

Idaho 

Montana 

Nevada 

New York... 

Oregon 

Pennsylvania 

Viah 

Washington . 

Total . 



Tax in currency 
on gold bullion. 



$193, 
1, 
5, 
11, 
43, 
28, 
10, 
14, 
4, 



366 74 
447 45 
680 12 
413 70 
865 20 
140 27 
024 60 
030 14 
087 16 
563 02 



313,618 40 



Tax in cun-ency 
on silver bul- 
lion. 



$6,912 00 



1, 682 02 

44 

77, 021 21 

3, 007 70 

4 61 

1, 747 00 



90, 374 98 



Valueofthegold 
bullion, in ciir- 
i-ency. 



38, 673, 

289, 

1, 136, 

2 282 

8| 773! 

5, 638, 

2, 004, 

2, 806, 

817, 

312, 



62, 723, 680 



Value of the sil- 
ver bullion, in 
currency. 



$1, 382, 400 



336, 404 

88 

15, 404, 242 

601, 540 

923 

349, 400 



18, 074, 996 



States and Territories. 



Total value of 
gold and silver 
bullion, in cur- 
rency. 



Estimated value 
of goldbullion, 
in coin. 



Estimated value 
of silver bul- 
lion, in coin. 



Total estimated 
value of gold 
and silver bul- 
lion, in coin. 



California . . . 

Colorado 

Idaho 

Montana 

Nevada 

New York... 

^Oregon 

Pennsylvania 

Utah 

Washington . 

Total . 



$27, 844, 811 

208, 433 

817, 937 

1, 643, 573 

6, 31G, 589 

4, 052, 199 

1, 443, 542 

2, 020, 340 
588, 551 
225, 075 



$995, 328 



242,211 

63 

11,091,054 

433, 109 

664 

251, 568 



$28, 840, 139 

208, 433 

1,060,148 

1,643,636 

17, 407, 643 

4, 485, 308 

1, 444, 206 

2, 271, 908 

588, 551 

225, 075 



80, 798, 676 



45, 161, 050 



58, 175, 047 



** This tax is abolished under the new internal revenue act. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 297 

Deposits and Coinage. — The following is a statement of tlie deposits and 
coinage at the branch mint of the United States, in San Francisco, during the 
year ending December 31, 1867 : 

Value. 

Gold deposits $18,923,152 17 

Silver deposits and purchases 613, 117 94 

Total deposits 19,536,270 11 



Statement of coinage executed. 



Denominations. 


No. of pieces. 


Value. 




GOLD. 


920, 7.50 

9,000 

29, 000 

28, 000 


$18,415,000 00 
90, 000 00 
145 000 00 






Quarter eagles 




70, 000 00 




Total 


986, 750 


18, 720, 000 CO 




SILVER. 


Half dollars 


1, 196, 000 

48, 000 

140, 000 

120, 000 

20 


598 000 00 




12 000 00 




14 000 00 




C 000 00 




20 534 93 








Total 


1, 504, 020 


6.50, 534 93 




RECAPITULATION. 




98e, 750 
1, 504 020 


18, 720, 000 00 
650, 534 92 


Silver . - . - 






Total 


2, 490, 770 


19, 370, 534 92 





The deposits for the year ending December 31, 1867, were of the following character : 



GOLD DEPOSITS. 



California, bullion $5,700,871 12 



Idaho, 

Oregon, " 

Montana, " 

Nevada, " 

Arizona, " 

Parted from silver bullion . 



1,144,483 04 

319,620 90 

309,843 32 

49,030 47 

48,797 73 

168,901 92 



Fine bars 10,980,791 94 

Foreign coin 153, 453 31 

Foreign bullion 47,358 42 



$7,741,548 50 



11,181,603 67 



Total gold 18,923,152 17 



298 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

SILVER. 

Nevada, bullion $205,618 87 

Arizona, " 8,425 74 

Idaho, " 39,727 45 

Parted from gold bullion C9,999 56 

$323,771 62 

Bars 239,799 25 

Foreign coin 27, 595 ^1 

Foreign bullion 21,951 76 

289, 346 32 

Total silver 613,117 94 

Silver bars stamped $20,534 92 

Total gold and silver 19,536,270 11 

Fine bars, total 20,534 92 

Total Deposits aist> Coikage. — The Secretary of tlie Treasury in Lis annual 
report for the year 1867 states that the total vahie of the bullion deposited at 
the mint and branches during the fiscal year was $41^893,100 76, of which 
640,069,200 06 was in gold and $1,823,900 70 in silver. Deducting the rede- 
posit, the amount of actual deposit was $34,537,048 39. 

The coinage for tlie year was, in gold coin, $28,217,187 50; gold bars, 
$11,621,691 32; silver coin, $986,871; silver bars, $575,823 18 ; nickel, copper, 
and bronze coinage, (one, two, three, and five-cent pieces,) $1,879,540. Total 
coinage, $31,083,598 50. Total bars stamped, $12,197,514 50. 

The gold deposits of domestic production were, at Philadelphia, $2,418,lf 7 89 ; 
at San Francisco, $17,936,169 40; at New York, $10,320,821 55; at Denver, 
$130,559 70. The silver deposits were, at Philadelphia, $37,399 72; San 
Francisco, $744,387 48 ; New York, $274,893 19. 

The gold and silver deposits of foreign production were $2,674,619 46. 

The amount of gold coined at PhHadelphia was $10,072,060 86 ; at San 
Francisco, $18,225,000; of silver, at Philadelphia, $357,490 38; at San Fran- 
cisco, $780,048 54 ; of bronze, nickel, and copper, at Philadelphia, $1,879,540. 
Total number of pieces struck, 54,110,384. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 299 



NEVADA. 

SECTION I. 

TOPOGRAPHY, PHYSICAL FEATURES, AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 

System of Moira-TArN-s, Plains, and Valleys. — This State, in common 
witli the entire region lying between tlie Sierra Nevadg, and the Rocky mountains, 
is an elevated plain, having a general altitude of about 4,000 feet above the level 
of the sea. Crossing this plateau are many mountain ranges, the most of which 
have a northerly and southerly course, being separated from each other by valleys 
from 5 to 20 miles wide, which is also about the width of the adjacent mountains, 
measm-ed on a straight line from base to base. These mountains have an abso- 
lute height varying from 5,000 to 12,000 feet, being from 1,000 to 8,000 feet 
above the common level of the country. The Sien-a Nevada, forming for some 
distance a natural barrier along the western and southwestern parts of the State, 
varies in height from 7,000 to 13,000 feet. This range is covered with heavy 
forests to its very base, while all the others in the interior of the State are barren 
of wood, or but sparsely timbered. This alternation of mountains and valleys 
is preserved with great uniformity throughout all parts of the State, more espe- 
cially in the central aud eastern portions. In places these mountains disappear, 
or so contract as to transform the valleys into broad plains or basins, some of 
which are open and unobstinicted, while others 'are dotted with buttes, or covered 
with groups of rugged hills. At points along their course these ranges are much 
depressed, or cut by ravines striking across their summits, fonning passes so low, 
and with such gradual slopes on either side, as to greatly facilitate the construc- 
tion of wagon roads, and even railways, across them. In some parts of the country 
the mountains, instead of running in parallel chains, are broken into confused 
and detached masses, their longitudinal axis confonning towards no common 
direction. The sides of these mountains are everywhere cut by deep ravines or 
canons, the most of them running from crest to base, and usually at nearly right 
angles with their general course. In some places these ravines are but one or 
two, while in others they are five or six miles apart, dividing the mountain slopes 
into enormous ridges, some of them 2,000 or 3,000 feet above the separating 
canons. The latter are in some cases well watered, perennial streams flowing 
through them, rendering irrigation of their banks always feasible, while in others 
there are neither springs nor running streams, whole mountain ranges being, like 
the adjacent plains, nearly or quite destitute of water. As in the Sierra Nevada, 
these interior ranges contain a few high ridges and peaks, upon which in places 
sheltered from the sun, or where deep drifts have been formed, the snow lies 
throughout the year. Granite, sienite, slate, limestone, and porphyr}^, are the 
prevailing rocks in the composition of the Nevada mountains, which have gen- 
erally a rounded and dome-like contour, though occasionally shooting up into 
pyramidal peaks and spire-shaped summits. The tops of the divides between the 
lateral canons are especially apt to be sharp and rugged, the bare and splintered 
rocks occasionally standing far above the crest of the ridge, and sometimes strongly 
inclined towards the comb of the principal mountain. While the most of these 
ranges are covered with a scant}'- gi-owth of bunch grass, and with patches of 
piiion, juniper, and other scrubby trees, much of their sm-face is destitute of both 
grass and every other species of useful vegetation, fully three-fourths being Avith- 
out any kind of timber. Along some of the streams flowing through the canons 
are nan-ow strips of arable land which frequently, at the point where the former 
opens into the valleys, spread out into tracts of several acres, affording a suffl- 
ciency of tillable land for gardens and small farms. Some of these streams are 
fiinged with cottonwood, birch, Avillow, wild cherry, and similar trees, the most 



300 RESOURCES OF STATES A^J) TERRITORIES 

of (.hem small, and of but little value, mixed witli whicli are often varieties of 
wild viues, rose, currant or gooseberry bushes, and other shrubbery. Up the 
most of these canons it is no difficult matter to construct wagon roads leading 
quite to the summits of the mountains, a consideration of moment, as the latter, 
the principal repositories of the precious metals, are thus rendered easily accessi- 
ble to loaded teams ; and these mountain ridges sometimes run for 100 miles or 
more without any material deviation from their general course. So also do the 
adjacent valleys extend for a like distance without other obstruction than perhaps 
an occasional butte, or outstanding, spm*, and with no perceptible variation of 
level. Sometimes these valleys, owing to a subsidence of the mountains, or a 
change in their general course, exj^and into immense plains, as in the southern 
and northwestern parts of the State, or connect with other valleys having the 
same or nearly the same level, or, may be, are separated from the latter only by 
low ridges or swells of land so inconsiderable as to present no obstacle to the 
building of railroads throughout the entire series. A more favorable region for 
the construction of railways than is offered by this system of communicating plains 
and valleys, especially where these improvements are required to pursue a gen- 
erally northern and southern direction, could not be desired. Besides, being so 
nearly level, and wholly unobstructed, the soil, for the most part a dry sand, or 
a compact sandy loam, affords the Ijcst possible material for a road-bed, whether 
facility of construction or durability be considered. Upon these plains and valle3'S 
nothing of a vegetable growth is to be found larger or more formidable of remo- 
val than the wild sage, a shrub that can, as a general thing, be ploughed up 
with a single yoke of oxen, while their surfaces are almost entirely free from 
rocks, loose stones, or other obstructions. But Avhile these valleys are, longitu- 
dinally viewed, so nearly level, they all have a slight descent from the foot of 
the adjacent mountains to their centres, caused by the wash that, going on for 
years, has been gradually wearing down the mountains and filling up the valleys. 
The difference in altitude between the tops of the mountains and the level 
of the valleys, now varying from 1,000 to 8,000 feet, was formerly much greater, 
since at one time the bottoms of the opposing mountains met, no doubt, in the 
middle of the intervening valley, making the difference in altitude tvv'o or three 
times as great as at present. While many of these valleys receive a great num- 
ber of small streams from the mountains on either side, or about their heads, very 
few of them have any large sti'eam flowing through the centre, the most of these tribu- 
taries sinking into the arid and porous soil as soon as they reach the edge of the 
valley. As a consequence, the latter, few of them having any common outlet, 
are great natural reservoirs ; but the water, resting upon the bed rock, can only 
be reached by penetrating the immense mass of superincumbent debris. Hence 
wells in these vallej^s require to be sunk to a great depth, nor is water always 
obtained even then ; though it could no doubt be reached in many places by 
artesian boring, a method not generally adopted, if in any instance yet resorted 
to in this State. In the few cases where there is a sufficient accumulation of 
water to cause a stream to run through the valley above ground, there are 
usually at points along it, patches of alluvial bottom constituting good plough 
or grass lands, the quantity generally being in proportion to the size of the stream. 
Reese river, Carson, Umashaw, Paradise, and Franklin valleys, afford good exam- 
ples of this kiud. In Ruby, Big Smoky, Degroot, and Toquima, we have examples 
of large valleys containing much good land, yet without open streams running 
through them ; Avhile in the Great Salt, Fairview, Ralston, Sinkavata, and 
Sand Spring valleys, there is neither arable land nor running water. In the 
case of the Big Smoky and similar valle3"s, the mountain streams after disappear- 
ing make then- way underground towards their centres, where, meeting with 
obstructions, or gathering into natural basins, they saturate the earth and render 
it productive. Much of the soil, both in the valleys and upon the mountains, is 
rich and friable, being easily tilled and abounding in the elements of fruitfulness, 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 301 

but unavailable for agricultural purposes because, of its aridit}^ and the lack of 
means for its iragation. Botb tLe open plains and the more contracted valleys 
are, for the most part, destitute of timber, the only exceptions being where they 
are traverecd by considerable streams, as the valleys of the Carson, Walker, 
Truckee, and Humboldt rivers, along which are a few scattered cottonwoods 
and copse of willow, there being no other trees, large or small, along them. Both 
the valleys, plains, and mountains are, in some sections of the country-, wholly 
destitute of wood, and but ill supplied with grass and water, the latter, where 
it does occur, being often so impregnated with mineral substances as to render it 
unwholesome, or so warm as to be unfit for immediate use. Several of the more 
extended of these plains are so arid and baiTen as to justl}'- merit the appellation 
of " desert," popularly applied to them. The regions most strongly marked in 
this respect are those adjacent to the sinks of the Humboldt and Carson, the 
vicinity of the Big Mud lakes, and the belt of country stretching from the Great 
Salt valley of Churchill county south through the centre of the State, and 
spreading out in the desolate and sandy wastes that suiTound Death valley and 
the sink of the Amargosa, reputed to be depressed many Heet below the level of 
the sea. The characterizing of these sections, however, as peculiarly sterile does 
not imply that there are not many other considerable tracts in the State almost 
equally worthless, the only difference being in their more contracted area. To 
this system of mountains, valleys, and plains, the latter so spread out, and often 
connected together, as to constitute a scries of basins, each having a drainage of 
its own, but no outlet to the sea, Nevada is indebted for its singular hycbogra- 
phy, this common receptacle of its gathered waters becoming, according to cir- 
cumstances, a lake, sink, meadow, alkali flat, or a salt bed. 

SrN"KS, Sloughs axd Lakes. — The only waters of Nevada that are supposed 
to reach the ocean consist of a few inconsiderable streams in the northern, and 
a still smaller nmnber in the southern jjart of the State. The former are tribti- 
taries of the Owyhie and the Snake rivers, and the latter of the Colorado. With 
these exceptions all the surface flow of the country is collected in lakes, none of 
them of large size and most of them extremely shallow, and in sinks, a name 
popularly applied to a certain class of these lakes from the circumstance that the 
streams emptying into them or received from other lakes are here supposed to 
sink and finally disappear beneath the smface. The idea, however, is erroneous, 
as these bodies of water, while they are not deep, are quite as permanent as any 
other, though fluctuating in area with the size of the streams by which they are 
fed. Most of the mountain streams in this State do sink, as already stated, as 
soon as they reach the plains or valleys. Some of the larger streams flo\\ing 
through the latter, as Eeese river, also disappear in like manner, being absorbed 
by the earth without accumulating at any point in a lake. These are the only 
cases to which the term sinJc properly applies. The fact that some of these lakes 
having no visible outlet receive each a large stream without overflowing its 
banks, or being greatly raised even when these tributaries are at high stages of 
Avater, has led to the supposition that they communicate Avith the sea, or perhaps 
with subtenanean lakes, through underground passages. The consideration, 
however, that but comparatively little rain or snow ever falls in this region, 
Avhile the extreme dryness of the atmosphere and the soil causes evaporation and 
absoi-jition to go on rapidly, dispenses in a great measure with the necessity for 
such a theory. The only lakes of any considerable size in Nevada are those 
formed by the Humboldt, Walker, Carson and Franklin rivers, and bearing the 
names of these streams respectively, together with Pyramid lake, the largest of 
the group, formed by the waters of Truckee river. To Lake Tahoe, lying one- 
third within its limits, Nevada can only advance a corresponding claim. By the 
the early emigrants the name Sink was given to Humboldt lake, and a large 
shallow lake situate in the northern part of Cluu-chill county is still called the 



302 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEKRITORIES 

Sinlc of the Carson, from tlie fact that it receives the surplus waters of that river 
through a sluggish tortuous stream, in some places having numerous channels, 
and in this countrj^ generally designated a shugli. There is also a slough run- 
ning from Humboldt lake to this sink, through Avhich the former, at high stages, 
discharges its water. Through a similar channel Pyramid lake, when above its 
ordinary level, sends its water into "VVinnemucca lake, a large shallow basin 
lying east of Pja-amid, and at certain seasons of the year nearly dry. In addition 
to tlie above there are small lakes and ponds in Degroot, Franklin, and various 
vallej's in the State, the waters of which are in some cases fresh and pellucid, 
while in others they are more or less opaque and impure. About these ponds, 
which are mostly shallow, there is often a body of good grazing or agricul- 
tural land. Lake Tahoe, which has a depth of over 1,500 feet, is of an in-eg- 
ular oval shape, 21 miles long and 10 miles wide, and, though elevated more 
than 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, it never freezes over, nor does the 
temperature of the water vary much from 57° winter or summer, a circumstance 
OAving, probably, to its being fed largely by springs. That it receives most of 
its supplies from this source is evident from the fact that it has but one tributary 
stream of any magnitude, while its outlet, Truckee river, carries a heavy body 
of water. This lake, like Pyramid, abounds in trout of large size and fine 
flavor, and is surrounded on every side by lofty mountains, which, rising abruptly 
from its shores, are covered for nearly two-thirds of the year with snow. These 
mountains are heavily timbered with forests of pine, spruce and fir. Pyramid 
lake, the largest body of water wholly within the limits of the State, is about 
30 miles long and 12 wide, and is situate in the southern part of Roop county, 
near the western line of the State. This lake, which derives its name from a 
pyramidal rock standing near its centre and rising 600 feet above its surface, 
has an elevation of about 4,000 feet above tide level. Like the Walker, it has a 
considerable depth, and the scenery about it is extremely grand, it being walled 
round Avith precipitous mountains rising from 2,000 to 3,000 feet high. Walker 
lake has about the same altitude and length, but is not so wide as P^Tamid, its 
average width not being over six or seven miles. Like the latter it is of an 
irregular oblong shape. The shores are indented ■\\ith numerous small bays. 
Besides an inferior species of fish it contains the salmon trout; but the latter are 
not so large, numerous or avcU flavored as in Pyramid or Lake Tahoe, the 
water here being neither so deep nor pure. Walker lake is flanked on both sides 
by high mountains and rugged hills, the whole extremely arid and barren, almost 
entirely destitute of wood, grass or water. Carson lake has a diameter of about 
12 miles; Ilumbold and Franklin are somewhat smaller. They are all of an 
irregular circular or oval shape, have low, flat shores, and are nowhere over 50 
or 60 feet deep, l^hey contain no fish except suckers and others of an inferior 
kind, the water of these, as well as most of the other small lakes and ponds in 
the country, being brackish and slightly alkaline — that of Humboldt lake and 
Carson sink so much so as to render the fish quite unpalatable and hardly fit 
for culinary puiposes. The same is true of the water in most of the sloughs, 
and also in some of the rivers, especially the Plumboldt, wlach becomes greatly 
deteriorated at its lower stages, particularly as it approaches the lake. Washoe, 
Toshepah, Pueblo and Guano are all small and shallow lakes, the water of which 
is in some cases clear and sweet, while in others it is discolored with earthy matter, 
or so impregnated with salt, soda or other substances as to render it distasteful 
if not unwholesome. About some of these lakes, as well as along a few of the 
rivers, occur patches of tule lands, or ground overflowed at high water and cov- 
ered with a species of large-sized bulrush. Where susceptible of easy drainage, 
these patches can readily be converted into excellent meadows. The most exten- 
sive tracts of this land are found at the mouth of the Humboldt river, around 
Carson lake and sink, and above Genoa on Carson river, along the west shore 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 303 

of Franklin, and at the outlet of Waslioe lake, smaller patches he'mg met with 
at the sinks of the Umashaw, Weatherlow, and Wemissa creeks, Ilumboldt 
county, and around several small lakes in Franklin valley, Lander county. 

As Honey, IMono and Owens lakes, though not within the boundaries of Nevada, 
all lie west of the Sierra, and form a part of the system of valleys and lakes 
stretching along the western rim of the Great Basin, the first two being very 
near the line of this State, it may be proper to give here a passing description 
of them. Honey Lake, so named from the honey-dew abundantly precipitated 
throughout this region during the summer months, is a small and very shallow 
body of water, even at high stages, and wholly disappears in extremely dry seasons. 
Its principal confluents, Willow creek and Susan river, sink into the tule marsh 
before reaching the lake, the shores of which are in some places low and swamj^y, 
while in others they are dry and elevated. It has no outlet, and is destitute of 
fish, the water being Strongly alkaline. To the west of the lake is an extensive 
valley, skirted by the Sierra Nevada in that direction, a strip of hilly country 
separating it from Pjramid and ^lud lakes on the east. Mono lake, lying about 
10 miles southwest of the dividing line between California and Nevada, derives 
its name from the tribe of Indians originally inhabiting the vicinity. It is about 
14 miles long and 9 wide, and, though never sounded, is supposed from the con- 
figuration of the adjacent mountains to be very deep; some trials said to have 
been made with a 300-foot line failed to reach bottom. It has been suggested 
that the bed of this lake is the centre of an extinct volcano filled up with water, 
a hypothesis that assumes plausibility from the crater-like fomn of one of its 
islands, as well as of numerous small mountains in the neighborhood. By chem- 
ical analysis a gallon of this water weighing eight pounds is found to contain 
1,200 grains of solid matter consisting principally of chloride of sodium, (com- 
mon salt,) carbonate of soda, borax, sulphate of soda, (glauber salt,) and silica, 
with indications of the presence of sulphuretted hj'drogen. Holding such a large 
percentage of these substances in solution the water of this lake is, of course, so 
acid and nauseating as to render it not only unfit for drinking but even for 
bathing. Leather immersed in it is soon destroyed by its corrosive properties, 
and no animal, not even a fish or frog, can for more than a short time exist in 
it. The wild fowl in visiting it keep about the mouths of the creeks, where the 
lake water is mixed with that flowing from the mountains. The only thing 
able to live within or upon the waters of this lake is a species of fly, which, 
springing from a larvae bred in its bosom, after an ephemeral life, dies, and col- 
lecting on the surface, is drifted to the shore, where the remains collect in great 
quantities, to be fed upon by the ducks or gathered by the Indians, with whom 
this forms a staple comestible. Nestling under the eastern water-shed of the 
Sierra, this lake receives several considerable tributaries; and, although desti- 
tute of any outlet, such is the aridity of the atmosphere that it is alwa^-s kept at 
nearly the same level by the process of evaporation. So dense and sluggish is 
the water rendered through supersaturation with various salts and other foreign 
matters, that none but the strongest winds can raise a ripjjle on its surface. As 
the Sierra in. this neighborhood reaches nearly its greatest altitude, the scenery 
about Mono is varied and majestic, some portions of it being at the same time 
marked by a most cheerless and desolate aspect. This lake may aptly be termed 
a dead sea, its bitter and fatal waters rendering it literallj^ such, while all its 
suiToundings — wild, gloomy and foreboding — are highly suggestive of sterility 
and death. Owen's lake, lying to the south of Mono, though somewhat larger 
and not so deep, does not otherwise differ materially from the latter. It has the 
Sierra on the west for a back ground, while its water is almost equally saline 
and bitter. Like ]\Iono, it has no outlet ; and, though receiving the waters of 
Owen's river, a large and rapid stream, its surface is observed to be every year 
getting lower, a process that its former shore-line marks indicate to have been 
going on for a long time. This subsiding for the last five years has been at tho 



d04 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEERITORIES 

rate of nearly two feet per year. Former beach lines along the sliores of Mono 
lake indicate tliat it lias in like manner fallen by gradual stages many feet below 
its ancient level. The larvse generating the insect found on Mono lake also 
breed abundantly in these waters, being the only form of animal life adapted 
to live in or about them. The decomposing action of this water is shown bj^ its 
effect upon the bodies of a company of Indians, some 20 or 30 in number, Avho, 
^^■hile seeking to escape the whites several years ago, having taken refuge in the 
lake, were there shot by their pursuers, who left them in the water. In the course 
of a few weeks not a vestige of their bodies Avas to be seen, even the bones having 
been decomposed by this powerful solvent. 

Alkali Flats and Mud Lakes. — The surface of many of the plains and 
valleys in this State being composed of a stiff clay nearly impervious to water, 
and at the same time quite level or but slightly basin-shaped, are readily con- 
verted, dm-ing wet weather, into shallow lakes, some of which exist but for a 
few days, while others last until the drj^ season comes on, a few sometimes con- 
tinuing throughout the j'ear. These bodies of water, though often covering a 
large area, are rarely more than a foot or two deep. When drying up they 
usually leave behind a slight deposit of argillacious sediment, to Avhich circum- 
stance and their generally miry condition they are indebted for the name mud 
lal'C, commonly applied to them. When covered with water, or even but mod- 
erately wet, these spots are mostly impassable to teams or even horsemen. To 
obviate this difficulty roads require to be thrown up and impacted by travel during 
the dry season. Besides this clayey sediment many of these lakes on drying up 
deposit a variety of salts, the most of them of alkaline nature, whence the name 
alkali flat given them when in this condifion. These salts are white, and glisten 
in the sun, so that these localities are very hot in summer as well as trying to 
the eyes of persons crossing them. When dry their beds become so hard that 
the hoof of an animal or even the tire of loaded wagons leaves but a slight impres- 
sion. In some instances while the greater portions of 'these flats become dry 
and hard, others remain moist, the water in places coming to within a few inches 
of the surface. From these damp spots a constant efflorescence of saline matter 
goes on. The sublimated particles are left upon the surface or adhere to the 
shrubbery if there be any near by. The most of these desiccated lakes, however, 
are wholly without vegetation, irot even the artemesia being able to take root 
upon them. These spots, so transformed alternately into mud lakes and alkali 
flats, are also the localities of the salt beds and marshes characteristic of this 
country. Though met with in nearly every part of Nevada., the most exten- 
sive occur in the northwestern, central and southern portions of the State, where, 
in the wet season, some of them cover more than a hundred square miles. 

Rivers akd Streams. — In proportion to its size Nevada has, perhaps, fewer 
large streams than any other State or Territory in the Union ; none of those 
within its limits being navigable, and not more than four or five justly entitled 
to be called rivers. The Humboldt, the largest and longest river in the State, 
is at ordinaiy stages fordable at many places, as are all the others nearly every- 
where along them. But, while possessing so few rivers, this State contains a 
great number of small streams, which, issuing from the various mountain ranges, 
afford an extensive propulsive power and means of irrigation. As a general 
thing the rivers have a swift current, with occasional rapids, though nothing like 
a cataract exists in any part of the State. The most of the mountain streams 
have a great descent, some of them falling a thousand feet every two or three 
miles. Where running through valleys or plains, the immediate banks of the 
streams are apt to be low; in the case of the smaller ones only a few feet above 
the water, though some have higher benches further back. Reese river, for 
example, flowing through a channel having nearly parallel banks, is scarcely 
anywhere more than 10 or 15 feet below the adjacent plain. Except towards 
its terminus it never dries u]), and rarely ever overflows its banks. At one point 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 305 

it clisajipears for several miles, having no channel above ground. The water 
here is diffused throughout the soil, forming, by a system of natural m-igation, 
an extensive meadow. Below this it reappears at several points, and being 
finally collected again in one channel flows on as before. This stream has an 
average width of 15 feet and a depth of about two feet. After pursuing its 
course for more than a hundred miles it begins to diminish, standing only in 
pools, and finally disappearing altogether. During high stages of water it runs 
for a greater distance, making its way nearly to the Ilumboldt, where it termi- 
nates in a tule swamp, which dries np in one summer. Weatherlow, "Wamissa, 
Umashaw, and several other considerable creeks in the State resemble Reese 
river in their leading features. The most of them in like manner terminate in 
small fens, usually called sinJcs. Nearly all the running waters of the Nevada 
are palatable and wholesome. That of the mountain streams is always excel- 
lent. In most of the sloughs it is disagreeably brackish, which is also the case 
in the Ilumboldt river, and some other of the larger streams, particularly at low 
stages of water, the impurities increasing as the stream descends. In consequence 
of waste from evaporation and absorption most of the larger streams lose as 
much water from these causes as they gain from their tributaries, rendering them 
sometimes larger near their sources than at points further down. The Humboldt, 
for instance, a stream about 40 yards wide and fom' feet deep, is scarcely so largo 
where it enters the lake as it is 200 miles above. The Walker and Carson riv- 
ers are also smaller where they empty into their respective lakes than at points 
higher up. The Truckee, though not so large, being a more rapid stream, dis- 
charges a greater volume of water throughout the year than the Humboldt. In 
point of size, Walker river ranks next to the Truckee. Carson river has an 
average width of 20 yards, with a depth of three feet, and is about two-thirds 
the size of Walker. Franklin river is a much smaller stream than Carson. The 
entire length of the Humboldt, including its two main forks, is over 300 miles. 
That of the others is much less. Both the Humboldt, Carson, and Walker riv- 
ers are formed by the union of two main forks or branches, below which none of 
them have a single afiluent of any size, the Walker none whatever. Truckee 
river, issuing a large stream from Lake Tahoe, receives a number of tributaries 
before leaving the mountains, after which, though not enlarged by any affluents, 
it preserves a nearly uniform volume, running with a swift cuiTent until it empties 
into Pj'ramid lake. The water of this stream is cold and pure throughout its 
entire course, and, as it has a great descent, it could be made to supply an immense 
propulsive power. That it will be largely diverted to this use, as soon as the Cen- 
tral Pacific railroad is completed, admits of no doubt, since this improvement fol- 
lows along its banks for more than 50 miles, nearly half the distance through heavy 
forests of spruce and pine, which supply, in connection with the extensive water 
power, great advantages for the manufacture of lumber. The Humboldt river 
takes its rise in the Goose Creek mountains, in the northwestern comer of the 
State, Avhence, running in a westerly course about 250 miles, it deflects to the 
south, and flowing 50 miles farther falls into Humboldt lake. It nms through a„ 
tortuous channel with a moderate current, falling about 500 feet while traversing 
a distance of 250 miles. It passes through an exceedingly dry and sterile • 
country. The only good land is comprised in a narrow belt of alluvion along its 
immediate banks. Wliile this belt contracts at some points to very narrow limits, 
or disappears altogether, it expands at a few others, as at Lassen's meadows, 
into grassy bottoms of considerable extent. During the period of high waiter, 
which occurs on the melting of the snow in the mountains about its sources, in 
the months of April, May, and June, the river is swollen to a size somewhat, 
larger than above stated, occasionally overflowing its banks, while at low water 
it shrinks into smaller dimensions, a condition common to most of the other large 
streams in the State. The only tree found in the valley of the Humboldt is a spe- 
cies of small willow, growing on the banks of the stream. Nothing but: a little.: 
20 



506 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

scrubby juniper and pine, and these very sparsely, is met witli upon any of the 
mountains adjacent. In the Goose Creek range, however, about its head waters, 
there are some groves of large-sized timber, -uith fair supplies of bunch gi'ass 
and water. The grass along the river bank consists of several wild varieties, 
such as wu-e, rye, blue, clover, and bunch, some of which are so injurious to 
stock that experienced drovers will not allow their cattle to feed upon them, but 
drive them into the mountains, where the grass, though less abundant, is more 
nutritious and wholesome. The only fish found in this stream, or the lake into 
which it discharges, are minnows, of little value. During the summer the Hum- 
boldt swarms with mosquitoes, gnats, sandflies and other troublesome insects. 
These pests are very numerous along the lower portions of the river and about 
the lake. 

In their leading featiu-es and suiToundings the Truckee, Carson, and Walker 
rivers do not, except as to size, differ materially from the Humboldt, having first 
a naiTow and partially fertile valley near their immediate banks, with another 
much more extensive, but wholly barren, lying somewhat higher and stretching 
away to the base of the mountain ranges that bound them on either hand. The 
cottonwoods that once formed a narrow fringe, or stood in small clumps along 
these streams, have mostly been cut down, and there is little left except a willow 
copse to mark the meanderings of the rivers through the plains, or their passage 
through the deep canons that sometimes occur along their routes. These canons, 
by subdividing the main valley into diiferent parts, sometimes cause the waters 
of the same river to be designated by separate names. After leaving the moun- 
tains from which they all take their rise, there is, with the exception of a little 
willow and the few cottonwoods mentioned, no timber along any of the streams 
in this State or in the valleys through- which they flow. In Reese River valley, 
proper, more than 100 miles long, there is not a stick of timber large enough 
for a fence rail, and nearly all the other valleys and plains in the country are 
equally destitute of timber. 

The Sprlngs of Nevada. — These abound in many parts of the State, and 
are to the economist not more objects of value on account of their utility than 
of interest to the scientist because of their size, temperature, modes of occun-ence, 
chemical properties, and other natural peculiarities. They are met with at all 
altitudes, and often under such strange conditions as justly entitle them to bo 
considered geological cariosities. They are found on the mountain sides, in the 
valleys, and far out on the desert — large, small, deep, shallow, cold, hot, and 
tepid. Some are in a state of ebullition, leaping up with a gurgling sound, as 
if heated by fierce fires below, while others are quiescent. Some are pellucid 
and perfectly pure, while others are impregnated with a great variety of mineral 
and metallic substances. In some places they occur solitary and at others in 
groups, as many as a hundred being found within an area of a few acres. In 
temperature they range from 50 to 204 degrees, the latter about the boiling point 
of water in this region. In diameter they vary from 1 to 100 feet, and in depth 
from 3 or 4 to 150. In shape they incline to be circular, many of them being 
perfectly round, Avith funnel-shaped or perpendicular well-like walls. The min- 
eral and thermal springs are generally situated on a mound formed from the silicious 
or calcareous particles brought up and deposited by their own waters. Some of 
■these mounds cover several acres and reach a height of 50 or GO feet, or even 
more. In some cases the Avails of the springs are formed of these limy or sili- 
cious concretions, Avhich, shaped into huge basins, lift them several feet above the 
level of the mounds, Avhile in others they are composed simply of earth or turf. 
The water in most of them is soft and palatable Avhen cold, and so clear that the 
smallest object can be seen at a great depth, even the minute orifices through 
which the water enters at the bottom of the deepest spring being visible. Fre- 
quently a hot and a cold spring are in such proximity that a person can dip one 
hand into each at the same time. From some a small, and from a few quite a 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 307 

large, stream of water issues, while in others the water merely keeps even with 
the top, or does not rise so high. Some of these springs emit an odor of sul- 
phuretted hydrogen, and taste slightly of sulphur, v/hile others have a chalybeate 
taste. Analytical tests of the waters from the more highly mineralized of these 
springs show them to contain, in various proportions, the chlorides of sodium ano 
magnesium, with soda in different forms and a small percentage of lime, sulphur, 
silica iron, and organic matter. A few of these have an intermitting or tida) 
action, the water coming to the sm-face with a gurgling sound and sinking away 
every few minutes, this subsidence sometimes continuing for a much longer period 
— occasionally for weeks, or perhaps months. The moimds and orifices of ancient 
thermals are frequently met with, being now destitute of water, a condition to 
which many seem rapidly, and perhaps all are gradually, approaching. 

These fountains, both mineral and thennal, are much frequented by the Indians 
for their supposed medicinal virtues ; and that some of them do possess valuable 
curative properties has been abundantly shown b}^ the benefits confeiTed through 
their use upon multitudes of invalids who, during the past few years, have had 
recourse to them. Some of the cold springs, especially those in the larger val- 
leys, are quite as limpid as the thermals, while they are often not only larger 
and deeper, but also freer from mineral substances than the latter. It frequently 
happens that the mountain streams, after sinking, reappear in the form of springs 
near the margin or out in the middle of the valleys ; and while some of these are 
small or of but moderate size, others are immense pools, being from 10 to 100 
feet in diameter, and often 100 feet or more in depth, some of them sending off 
large streams of water. Not all the cold springs, however, are free from distaste- 
ful and deleterious matters, some being so repulsive that even animals, though 
suffering from thirst, refuse to drink from them. 

The most remarkable group of thermals in this State is that known as the 
Steamboat Springs, so called because, when first discovered, they are said to 
have emitted ai puffing noise something like that of a high-pressure steamboat. 
The only sound escaping from them at present is a seething, gurgling noise like 
that of a boiling cakbon. These springs are situated in Washoe county, about 
16 miles north of Carson City and four east from the SieiTa, near a range of low 
basaltic hills, an extensive flow of this rock overlying granite. They occupy 
a rocky mound about half a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide, having an 
elevation of 50 or 60 feet above the adjacent valley. This mound, which is 
composed wholly of silicious matter deposited by the waters, is rent longitudi- 
nally by a number of irregular, scraggy-edged fissures, from six inches to a foot 
in width, caused, apparently, by some upheaving force from below. Gurgling 
up through these chasms, which probably extend to the bottom of the mound, 
come, at intervals of a few minutes, volumes of hot water, which, after hissing 
and foaming for a minute or two, subside, leaving the aperture again nearly 
empty. From some of these openings small jets of steam constantly escape, 
accompanied with the emission of gas. Besides these fissures there are pools 
tilled ^vith hot water, one of which, occupying a basin three feet in diameter and 
one foot high, built up by the deposition of solid matter held in solution by the 
water, rises and falls with great regularity every six minutes. For about five 
minutes the water left in the bottom of this basin remains quiescent, when it 
gradually rises, the ebullition increasing until it runs over the rim, when it again 
subsides, the agitation lasting a little over a minute. By throwing a few ounces 
of soap into this basin the water, after rising and falling a few times, as usual, 
begins to boil with fmy, throwing up the spray six or eight feet and sending off 
volumes of steam. In this manner its action can for hours be preternaturally 
excited, with varpng degrees of energy, until it finally comes to rest, the water 
disappearing entirely from the basin, and not rising again for some time, as if 
exhausted by these vehement exertions. The temperature of the hottest of these 
springs is 204° Fahrenheit, this being about the boiling point of water at that 



308 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

altitude. The tempercatiu'e of others, however, is much lower. The air about 
the spot smells of sulphm*, the ground in the vicinity being in places impreg- 
nated with that mineral. Along the eastern base of the tumulus on which the 
springs are situated flows a rivulet pm^e and cool, till it mingles with the warm 
and mineralized water of the latter. At times the chemical agents at work here 
seem more active than at others, the sounds emitted being louder and more fre- 
quent and the steam more abundant. It is even probable that a gradual but 
general subsidence of action is going on, as the loud puffing sounds said to have 
been observed here when the springs were first discovered, some 20 years ago, 
are no longer heard. The country about also affords evidence that the springs 
in this neighborhood were formerly much more extensive than at present. 

Other groups of warm springs, scarcely less remarkable, besides many less 
worthy of note than that above described, are met with in different parts of the 
State. In the valley of the Great Salt Bed, southern part of Humboldt county, 
occur three clusters of thermals, separated by a distance of six or eight miles — 
one on each side and one in the centre of the valley — but all so much alike that 
a description of one will serve to give a good idea of the others. The principal 
group at this place, being that in the centre of the valley, consisting of over 20 
springs, occupies an oblong mound covering 10 acres and rising 60 feet above 
the level of the valley. This mound, formed wholly by the carbonate of lime 
brought up and deposited by the waters, is covered with short, coarse grass. 
Some of the springs are fringed with rushes and tules. Much of the surface is 
saturated with water from the overflow of the springs. This overflow runs in 
small channels out upon the plains, where it is soon evaporated or absorbed by 
the dry and porous earth. Upon the summit and about the sides of this tumulus 
are situated the springs, some occupying well-shaped openings in the turf and 
others issuing from huge basins composed of limy concretions resembling ala- 
baster, or from the tops of tumuli formed of the same material and raised six or 
eight feet above the surface of the mound. Some of these springs, or rather 
pools, are more than 60 feet wide, while the diameter of others is not more than 
two or three feet, the whole varying as much in depth as in superficial area. 
There is also a wide difference in temperatm'e, some being at boiling point while 
others are simply tepid or quite cool, the hot and cold springs in some instances 
being separated only by a few feet. The water in all is soft, pure, and limpid, 
and so transparent that the smallest object can be seen at a depth of 50 or 60 
feet. Bubbles of gas are seen constantly ascending through it, but there is no 
ebullition nor perceptible escape of steam. While all these springs keep quite 
or nearly fall but few overflow, the aggregate amount of water discharged being 
small. The cluster of springs on the west side of the valley contains eight pools, 
hot, warm, and cold, the most of them larger and deeper than those in the cen- 
tral group, while those on the eastern side, though equally numerous, are not so 
large. At Wilson's ranch, in the southern end of the valley, are a number of 
small springs, some of them quite hot, while along its eastern side are to be seen 
the crater-shaped basins and tumuli of extinct thermals. 

At the following additional localities in this State hot springs occur, cither 
isolated or in groups, and of diiJerent dimensions, some large and in a state of 
active ebullition, others small and wholly quiescent : at several points in Carson 
and Eagle valleys ; on the desert between Truckee river and Humboldt ; in the 
vicinity of Black Rock, very numerous; along the eastern base of the Pine Nut 
mountains; on the desert between the Big Bend of the Carson and Walker rivers; 
near Kepler's station on the Wellington road, 16 miles west of the Sinkavata 
mountains and 40 east of Walker's lake ; at a number of places in Lassen, Alpine, 
and Mono counties, California, near the Nevada line; upper end of Degroot's 
valley, western part of Lander county ; east side of Reese River valley, 60 miles 
north of Austin ; south end of Smoky valley ; in first range of mountains east of 
Toquima valley, and in the valley beyond ; along the south side of the Upper 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 309 

Humboldt, and great numbers scattered over Franklin valley, besides, in many 
places tlirougliout tbe State, tlie mounds and otlier evidences of extinct tliermals, 
now without signs of heat or moisture. At some of the localities enumerated the 
springs are large, deep, and numerous, the water being kept at a high tempera- 
ture and in a state of violent commotion by internal heat ; at others these con- 
ditions are nearly all reversed, the orifices, once apparently much deeper, being 
nearly filled up and the temperature of the water scarcely above blood heat, jus- 
tifying the conclusion that the cooling process is general, and that the chemical 
action upon which it is dependent for its elevated temperature is constantly dimin- 
ishing, and will, in process of time, cease altogether. There are cases, however, 
in which this action is supposed to be on the increase and in which the springs 
appear to be of recent origin, not being contained in the usual rocky basins nor 
suiTounded with the mounds formed by the deposition of silicious or calcareous 
matter. Of this kind are the springs situate in the Hot Creek districts, Nye 
county, the surplus water of which is so copious and hot as to have given the 
name Hot creek to the stream issuing from them. Besides this there are other 
Lot creeks in the State, having their origin in a similar cause. 

Some of the cold springs in Nevada are scarcely less remarkable because of 
their size, depth, or the great volume of water they discharge than the thennals 
above described. The most noted of these occur in the central and eastern part 
of the State. Along the western side of Smoky valley are a number of pools, 
varying in diameter from 20 to 80 feet, some of them being at least 100 feet 
deep — so deep, in fact, that the water, Avhich is soft and clear as crystal, has a 
dark blue appearance. Several of these are filled with small fish and send off 
a large stream of water. So immense are some of these fountains that it has 
been conjectured they must have their sources in subterranean lakes; a more 
plausible theory, however, is that they originate from the mountain streams 
which, sinking on the margin of the valley, pursue their way under ground until 
they meet with some obstruction, when they collect in reservohs that ultimately 
find an outlet in these springs. In the second tier of valleys east of Smoky 
occurs another group of these springs, also circular in fonn, very deep and full 
of clear cold water, but having no apparent outlets or inlets. These also swarm 
with small fish, the number of which leads to the belief that there must be more 
room for them beneath the turf-like sod by which they are sun-ounded. In one 
of the lateral valleys on the Upper Humboldt is a meadow covering 1,200 acres 
and clothed with luxuriant grass, in the midst of which are several hundred cir- 
cular openings, from three to six feet wide, through which the pure, pellucid 
water rises nearly to the sm'face. They are very deep and full of small fish, 
the number of which becomes greatly increased on shaking the suiTounding tmf, 
which can easily be done by the weight of the person, favoring the supposition 
that these apertm-es are really the vent holes of an extensive underground lake. 
Franklin river, a good-sized stream, is formed almost wholly from tributaries that 
take their rise in a series of large springs ranged along the base of the moun- 
tains bounding its valley on the west. Some of these springs send off creeks 
15 feet wide and over a foot deep, which run with a rapid cuiTent. The number 
of springs contained in Thousand Springs valley, on the Upper Humboldt, is 
suiiiciently indicated by its name ; many of these are distinguished for their size 
and the excellence of their water. 

Salt Beds. — These deposits, through their extent and number, become not 
only a notable feature in the chorography, but also an important item in the 
economical resom-ces of Nevada. Like the alkali flats and mud lakes they are 
confined to the valleys and plains, in which they cover the points of greatest 
depression, the most of them being adjacent to or encompassed by a belt of alkali 
lands. They are doubtless of lacustrine origin, occupying what were fonnerly 
the basins of inland seas and salt lakes, their deposition being effected through 
the evaporation of these bodies of water. Besides the extensive beds of this 



310 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

mineral occnrriug in Cliurclnll, Esmeralda, and Lincoln counties, there are seve- 
ral smaller deposits, as well as a number of saliniferous springs, elsewhere in the 
State, all of which may become of local value on account of their proximity to 
supposed valuable mines. The most productive bed at present is that of the 
Sand Spring- Salt Mining Company, 75 miles east of Virginia. The claim of 
this company, consisting of 1,600 acres, occupies a depression in the southeastern 
corner of an extensive alkali flat, the centre of which for a space of several 
hundred acres is damp and marshy, and some portion of it covered with a few 
inches of water. This damp surface is coated to a depth of two or three inches 
with a crystallized incrustation of salt formed by sublimation of the particles of 
this mineral with which the clayey strata below are charged. On removing this 
coating of salt a thin body of fine white clay is exposed, overlying a stratum of soft 
black clay, which, in turn, rests upon another seam of green and black clay, con- 
taining coarse globules of salt. Beneath this seam occurs a deposit of crystal- 
lized salt, hard and massive but of unascertained thickness. In collecting the 
salt at this place, a tract embracing a score of acres or more is selected, and 
divided into strips, from each of which, in regular order, it is scraped into large 
heaps with a broad wooden hoe. These heaps, after being exposed for a few 
days to drain and dry, are conveyed in wheelbaiTows or cars running on wooden 
tracks laid down for the purpose of facilitating transportation over the soft 
ground, and thrown upon platfonns or dumps, when the salt is ready for sacking 
and shipment to market. After one of these surface sections has been stripped 
of salt, the incrustration immediately begins to reform, and so rapidly do the 
secretions from the saliniferous clays below proceed that a few weeks, and some- 
times less, is sufHcient to fully replace it, admitting of the gathering of a fresh 
crop at least every month. As the masses of crystallized salt underlying these 
clayey strata are probably inexhaustible, it would seem as if this process of 
replenishment might go on forever. These clays are not the primary sources of 
supply, though no doubt serving a useful purpose in promoting by their heat the 
sublimation of the saline particles as well, perhaps, as in aiding their condensa- 
tion upon the surface. Large sections of the alkali flat at Sand Spring, lying 
outside of this company's claim, are, during the dry season, covered with a coat- 
ing of salt J but it is neither so heavy nor pure as that owned by them, being 
rarely more than an inch thick, and largely mixed with alkaline and other for- 
eign matters, resembling, in tliese particulars, the deposits in Smoky valley, and 
in the Cortez district, and other salt fields of limited extent elsewhere in the 
State. The leading features of the larger beds, however, are almost identical 
with those of this deposit at Sand Spring, the character of the salt and the mode 
of collecting it being also very mucli the same. Prior to 1862, all the salt used 
in this State was brought from San Francisco, at an average cost, laid down in 
Virginia, of about $150 per ton. Dming that year parties, having imported a 
herd of camels for the purpose, began packing this commodity in from the salt 
pools, 45 miles southeast of Walker lake, whereliy the prices were somewhat 
reduced. The following year, the Sand Spring Company having commenced 
operations, the price of salt sutiered a further reduction, and for the past two years 
this article has been delivered to the mills about Virginia at the uniform rate of 
$60 per ton, being considerably less than the average cost of freight from San 
Francisco. During the year 1866 this company ihsposed of about 150, and 
during the past year of about 250 tons of salt per month, the most of which was 
consumed in the mills and reduction works, a little, also, after grinding, having 
been used for meat-packing and culinary purposes, for which it is well adapted. 
The Sand Spring Company have over $100,000 invested in this business, and, 
though owning several large teams, hire many others to haul the product of their 
salt fields to market, their freight bills amounting to from $10,000 to $15,000 per 
week. Large as is the amount of salt they are thus enabled to deliver, the supply 
is scarcely equal to the demand, some of the larger mills consuming between 35 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 311 

nnd 40 tons per month. The company, finding their salt well suited to table 
■use, have erected a steam mill at Vhgiuia, where considerable quantities are ground 
and put up for this puii^ose. About 40 miles north of the Sand Springs bed. 
also in Churchill county, is another and still larger but very similar deposit of 
salt. At this place there is, first, an incrastatiou of salt an inch or two thick 
overlying a stratum of blue clay 18 inches thick, filled with cubical crystals of 
salt, and resting upon a heavy body of these crystals free from earthy matter and 
reaching douaiward to an unknown depth. This property is also owned by a 
company, who have laid down a tramway for running out, a platform for receiving, 
and a house for storing their salt. From this locality the Humboldt mills obtain 
their supplies of this commodity, a little, also, having been sent to Virginia and 
Austin, it being extremely white and pure. In the Silver Peak district, Esme- 
ralda county, occm's the most extensive salt field in the State, its area covering 
some 40 or 50 square miles, much of which is coated with a thick incrustation 
of the pure chloride of sodium, underlaid by seams of clay and a crystallized 
mass of salt of unknown thickness, as at Sand Spring and Big Salt valley. 
Situate near the edge of this bed are a number of saline springs, the water of 
which evaporating is constantly increasing the deposits of salt about them. Holes 
dag in the earth in this vicinity are in a short time completely filled with a solid 
mass of salt, deposited from the supersaturated water seeping into them. It is a 
curious circumstance that situated in close proximity to these pools of perfect brine 
are a number of springs of soft fresh water. In the Columbus district, and witliiu 
half a rnilo of the principal mines, layers of salt interstratified with clay are 
found near the surface ; and by removing a foot or two of earthy matter on top, 
the water coming in fills the excavation in the course of four or five days with 
a compact mass of pm-e white salt. North of this spot five miles are the pools 
from which the camel train several years since procured their loading for Vir- 
ginia, and at a point 10 miles to the west is the extensive deposit known as 
Teal's salt marsh, and from which the mills at Am'ora obtain their supplies. 
Besides these, there are several other salt beds of minor importance both in this 
vicinity and in other parts of Esmeralda county, as well as also in Owen's valley, 
Inyo county, California, adjoining Esmeralda on the southwest. In the Pah- 
ranagat district, southeastern part of Lincoln count}', on the upper waters of the 
liio Virgin, masses of crystallized salt exist in such quantities as to constitute a 
notable part of the mountain in which they occur. They lie in strata, are almost 
chemically pm-e, and so transparent that ordinary print can be read through blocks 
of this material a foot square. The salt deposits before alludpd to as occun-ing 
in Smoky valley and near the Cortez district are slight and impure. The former 
and the more important of the two lies 40 miles south, and the latter 60 miles 
north of Austin. The incrustation of salt at these localities is scarcely more than 
haK an inch thick. It is deposited as elsewhere by efflorescence, and though 
destitute of any heavy bodies of salt below, possesses the usual power of repro- 
duction, renewing itself as often as removed. It is dissipated, however, by the 
least amount of rain, though readily reappearing on the return of dry weather. 
From the Smoky valley bed, where a considerable amount of salt is collected, 
and also some manufactured for table use, the mills about Austin, at Belmont, 
and those around the valley procure their needed supplies of this article. This 
salt is sold on the ground ready for sacking at one cent a pound, the cost of 
hauling it to the mills where used being about as much more. Most of the salt 
of Nevada as found in its natural condition is remarkably pure ; .samples taken 
from the Silver Peak and the Great Salt valley beds gave by analysis 98 per 
cent, chloride of sodium, that from Sand Spring giving 96 per cent. Samples 
from Smoky valley show by assay 909 per cent, chloride of sodium, the impuri- 
ties consisting of sand and sulphate of soda — ingredients which do not appear 
to detract from its eflicacy for amalgamating purposes, though rendering it less 
fit for table use. With salt in such illimitable quantities, of such excellent 



312 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

quality and easy procurement, there can be no question but this article, besides 
supplying all local demands, -will be largely exported from this State whenever 
railroad transportation shall have been extended to it. 



SECTIOX II. 

WOODLANDS— SOURCES OF FUEL AND LUMBER SUPPLY— COAL, ETC. 

The only timber in this State suited for making first-class lumber is that 
found on or near the eastern slope of the Sien'a Nevada mountains. There 
are, as observed in the remarks on the central and eastern parts of the State, a 
few groves of spruce and white pine in that quarter; but the trees are compara- 
tively small, and the wood for the most part soft and brittle. The prevailing 
tree, where there is any east of the Sierra, is the scrubby pitch pine, already 
described, having a low bushy trunk, from 10 to 15 inches in diameter, and from 
12 to 30 feet high. Being compact and resinous, it burns freely, even when 
green, emitting much heat, and though worth but little for luml)er, constitutes a 
valuable fuel. Mixed with these are a few juniper and mountain mahogany 
trees, equally scrabby with the piuon, though the mahogany, when dry, burns 
well. Some of the mountain streams are fringed with a narrow belt of willow, 
birch, and cheny^ all slender and dwaifish, and lit at best only for fence rails or 
lire-wood. With so great a scarcity of large timber, the better qualities of lumber 
necessarily command high prices in most parts of Nevada; the rates increasing 
with the distance from the Sierra, the principal source of supply. Thus, while 
this article can be purchased at the mill for about $20 per 1,000, it costs nearly 
three times that amount delivered in Virginia, five times in Austin, and six or 
seven at Belmont. The price is proportionally increased where delivered, at 
points still further in the interior. This question of fuel and lumber supply is 
more fully elucidated in the pages relating to the working of the Comstock ores 
and mines. 

Coal. — Although no heavy deposits of coal have yet been found in Nevada, it 
is too valuable an article to be overlooked in making up a summary of the mineral 
resources of the State. 

The Whitman Coal Mines — Developments and IlESULTS.---The first 
locations of mineral coal lands and efforts at working the same were made in 
1861, when parties encouraged by the outcroppings of narrow seams of lignite 
in the Pine Nut mountains, at a jioint about 12 miles northeast of Dayton, 
Lyon county, proceeded to form a mining district, adopting a set of laws and 
regulations for governing the locating and holding of claims therein. These 
laws were similar to those used in taking up and holding quartz lodes, but with 
this difference, that individual claims, instead of running longitudinally with, and 
being confined to a narrow space along the ledge, consisted of square plats of 
40 acres each, the same requiring to be surveyed by the territorial surveyor, and 
to be recorded after the manner of real estate. The coal signs observable in this 
locality are distributed over an area of several square miles, all of which, and 
much more was taken up soon after the district was fonned. Quite a large 
amount of money was subsequently expended upon these claims in the work of 
exploration, road building, &o. Upon the most promising, shafts were sunk to 
a consideral3le depth. Whitman, the discoverer and his associates, besides open- 
ing several short inclines, and performing other preliminary labor, ran a tunnel 
175 feet in length, from the extremity of which a shaft was sunk to a def)th of 
100 feet. The entire outlay of this company amounted to some $8,000 or $10,000, 
a portion of which, however, was spent in constructing a wagon road leading 
from theu' claims to the valley of Carson river, six miles distant. The invest- 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, 813 

ment proved nearly a total loss. Less tlian 100 tons of coal was disposed of, as, 
indeed, scarcely more than that amount of a marketable quality was ever raised from 
the mines. None worth speaking of has been obtained from the other claims in 
the neio'hborhood. This coal delivered at the quartz mills or other points where 
required for consumption, commanded from $S to 812 per ton, rates at Avhicli 
most of that of local production has since been disposed of. Numerous trials 
were made to test its adaptability for generating steam. The proprietors of the 
Sacramento quartz mill, in Gold Canon procured such alterations in their furnace 
grates to be made as seemed necessary to afford ample draught, and although 
their mill was run upon it for a short time, its use was soon abandoned. The 
large percentage of non-combustible matter present, choked the draught, and 
prevented the production of suificient heat for the rapid creation of steam. The 
attempts made to introduce this coal, and that procm-ed from Eldorado Canon, 
near by, as a domestic fuel, were somewhat more successful. Considerable 
quantities were obtained from the latter place for a year or two, and consumed 
in Virginia City and vicinity. 

The geological features of the Whitman district are not such as to indicate the 
presence of heavy bodies of carboniferous matter. The country about the mines 
is dry and barren ; the surface in places discloses traces of former volcanic action, 
and although there is here a species of coarse sandstone, the old red sandstone, 
and most other rocks accompanying the true coal series are absent. There is 
also here a shale, but like the sandstone, it evidently belongs to the pliocene 
age, and indicates for these coal beds a comparatively modern origin. The follow- 
ing strata encountered in sinking a perpendicular shaft 110 feet on the Whitman 
grounds, serve to exemplify the general geology of the district. The first foot 
passed through consisted of a clay shale, below which lay several feet of steatite, 
mixed with talc; next nearly one foot of bituminous lignite, underlaid with a bed 
of talcose slate was encountered. This slate rested upon sandstone, followed by 
another thin seam of lignite. Then followed in succession a stratum of slate; 
30 inches of lignite, of a somewhat improved character — a narrow scam of slate; 
six inches of coal; various strata of sandstone alternating with thin beds of steatite, 
shale, and coal, the shaft terminating a thick layer of white sand. Tlie planes 
of these successive strata are nearly parallel, the whole pitching at an angle of 
about 20°, the dip varying slightly at different points. 

Other Discoveries. — Soon after the location of the Whitman mines a still 
heavier deposit of lignite was found 12 miles further south, in Eldorado caiion, 
resting in a similar geological formation. From this place several hundi-ed 
tons of this material was soon afterwards taken, the most of which found a market 
in the neighboring towns, where it was used chiefly in stoves and grates. As a 
domestic fuel this coal has met with more favor than that from the Whitman 
mine, though unfit for furnace or forge purposes. Upon the claim of the New- 
castle Compan}^, the principal claim in Eldorado canon, a good deal of explora- 
tory work has been done, yet no heavy body of coal has been developed. The 
contents of this vein resemble the brown coal of Gennany, with Avhich they 
coincide in their chemical constituents. An analysis of the coal from the vein 
of the Newcastle Company, shows it to contain, moistm'e 19.65, hydro-carbonaceous 
matter 40.59, fixed carbon 28.31, and ash 11, with traces of sulphm- and iron. 
The resultant from distillation is a charcoal, and not a coke, as from the English 
coal, which generally contains more sulphur, but less volatile matter and ash. 
As the Nevada coal contains but little sulphur, it would be valuable for forge 
use and iron works, were it not for the large percentage of volatile substances 
it carries, composed mainly of water, Avhich detracts from its merits as a fuel, as 
well as for the generation of gas. For the latter purpose it might be made to 
answer by the addition of some carbonaceous material, since by this plan, as has 
been ascertained, it could be made to produce about 9,000 cubic feet of gas to 
the ton, which owing to the absence of sulphm-, would posses high powers of 



314 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

illumination. Soon after the above discoveries further coal signs were noticed 
two miles southeast of Fort Churchill, where a number of thin seams of lignite 
crop along the steep and baiTen hills that al)ound in that neighborhood. To 
secure these a district was laid out, and several claims taken up, on two or three 
of which open cuts were run and other work done, but without establishing for 
them any positive value. Discoveries of coal in other parts of the State have 
from time to time been announced, but with two or three exceptions they do not 
appear to have had any substantial foundation. As early as the summer of 
1860, parties excited by the finding of a black slaty substance, a few miles east 
of Sand Springs, took steps for securing a tract of land there, but abandoned 
the purpose on ascertaining the worthless nature of the material. There was 
a rumor prevalent some years ago of mineral coal having been found in the 
country to the north of the Humboldt river, but the report lacks verification. 
In 1864, some miners prospecting to the north of New Pass station, Chiu'chill 
count}^, having come upon a species of obsidian possessing a cleavage and lustre 
similar to hard coal, for which it was ignorantly mistaken, quite an excitement 
supervened on its being made known in Austin. The non-combustible nature of 
this substance was readily established, and the interest so suddenly awakened 
by its discovery speedily subsided. Two years later a company of miners search- 
ing after silver lodes, picked up in the Eureka district, 60 miles east of Austin, 
some pieces of float coal, which on trial were found to burn freely, cmiting a 
strong heat, and leaving but little ash. This float was not traced to its original 
bed, concerning which nothing is known, though the sample picked up was of 
a superior quality, and there is reason to hope that mines of good coal will yet 
be found in that quarter of the State, valuable seams having already been met 
with in the adjacent Territory of Utah. In the Volcano district, Esmeralda 
county, at a point about 80 miles easterly from Aurora, two veins of coal, the 
one 12 and the other 30 inches think have been discovered. They can be easily 
traced for several rods by the bituminous debris on the surface; are evidently of 
an earlier period than the lignite found elsewhere in the State, and are highly 
carbonized, and bear the appearance of a silicious anthracite coal mixed with 
calcite. The impurities in this article amount to 40 or 50 per cent,, yet it emits 
a strong heat, and bm'ns almost entirely to a white ash. It has been used suc- 
cessfully as a substitute for charcoal by blacksmiths and assayers ; that tested 
came from but three or fom" feet ])elow the surface, to which depth only have the 
seams yet been opened. The fissures are well defined; have an argillaceous 
shale on the one side, and limestone of the Jurassic age on the other; but whether 
these coal measures will prove to be of greater extent or value than those at the 
localities already described, we have not the data to determine. They remain 
as yet wholly undeveloped. Should they afford even a moderate amount of 
fuel, their presence in a region where there is but little wood and much mineral 
wealth Avould hereafter prove important. This coal is but three or four miles 
fi'om a series of copper-bearing lodes, and there are also in this district promising 
veins of gold and silver-bearing quartz. Outcroppings of soft coal can be traced 
for several miles along the foot hills of the Wassack mountains. This locality 
is about 25 miles north of Aurora, and four miles east of the east fork of Walker 
river. In thickness this seam ranges from a mere thread of shale to 6 or 7 feet. 
The coal burns readily. A lot taken from a shaft 30 feet below the smiace 
underwent perfect combustion on being ignited, while h'ing in an open heap on 
the ground. The vein runs nearly northwest and southeast, and dips south westerly 
at an angle of 20° degrees. The accompanying formation consists of shale, 
sedimentary rock, sandstone, &c., the whole having a range corresponding with 
that of the coal seam. The deposits at this place are not in their natural situa- 
tion much exposed, anc\ but little work has yet been done upon them. It is 
difficult to form an opinion as to their value, though competent judges speak 
favorably of the chances for finding here a fair article of soft coal. Recently ti 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 315 

coal vein of the antliracite variety is reported to Lave been found 15 miles from 
Hiko, the county seat of Lincoln county, in this State. The vein is represented 
to be 15 inches thick on the surface, and its contents are said to ignite readily, 
and burn with freedom, lea\'ing less than three per cent, of residuum. In gravity 
and external characteristics it compares favorably with the best coal found on 
this side of the continent, though assigned to a later geological period. Should 
the deposit prove at all extensive it would greatly benefit the surrounding region, 
which, with much mineral wealth, is rather limited in its supplies of fuel. 

Crystal Peak. — At this locality, some 35 miles northwest of Virginia City, 
coal signs similar to those in El Dorado caiion occur in a depression known as 
Dog valley, Jying near the eastern base of the SieiTa, distant one mile from the 
Truckee river, and two from the line of the Central Pacific railroad. The adja- 
cent hills, as well as the valley, are covered with a stately growth of sprace and 
pine timber, which, should the coal fail, might still afford profitable employment 
to a considerable population, as good lumber can be made here at small cost. 
The Truckee aflbrds am])le water-power for saw-mills to manufacture, and the 
railroad a ready means for transporting it to market. There are also some gold 
and silver-bearing lodes in the district, which, with the facilities at hand for 
reducing the ores, may come to be worked with remunerative results. The dis- 
covery of coal at this place was made about four years ago, fragmentary portions 
of a dark-colored, lustrous lignite, strongl}- marked with the structure of the trees 
and plants from wkich it was fonned, having been found along the line of the 
outcropping coal seams. A good deal of work directed to the exploration of these 
beds has since been done. Several thousand dollars have been expended in sink- 
ing shafts and artesian borings, and in excavating cuts and tunnels. Some of 
the fonner have been earned to a depth of 300 feet. In some cases the work of 
prospecting was first effected by means of boring, after which working shafts 
were put down and steam machinery was employed to facilitate hoisting and 
lumping operations. The carboniferous strata at Crystal Peak vary in thick- 
ness from a few inches to two and a half feet j they are much compressed in spots, 
and largely intermixed with foreign matter. Although a considerable quantity 
of this lignite has been extracted, and one company claim to have reached, by 
boring, a seam eight feet thick at a point 300 feet beneath the surface, the develop-^ 
ments made have not, in the main, proved satisfactory ; and of the several enter- 
prises at one time set on foot for the purpose of exploring these beds, none are 
now being actively prosecuted ; and as some of those interested may contemplate 
resuming operations, it may be expedient to copy here the opinions of the State 
mineralogist of Nevada, as to the probabilities of any considerable l^odies of coal, 
even of -the lignite class, ever being found at this place, Mr. Stretch, having 
given the locality a personal examination, remarks concerning its geology and 
coal prospects as follows : 

As so much imperfect knowledge relative to the probabilities of finding coal in Nevada is 
prevalent, it may be well to speak more fully of the indications in this neighborhood. The 
seams of coal originally discovered at this place are interstratified with thin beds of coarse 
sandstone or volcanic tufa, of light coiors. This formation is traceable easterly for a distance 
of 15 miles, being intimately associated with trachytes and basalt wherever it is found. Where 
it is exposed in Long valley, north of Virginia, it contains great numbers of fragments of wil- 
low leaves, grasses, &c., remains resembling some varieties of sage-brush, and in one instance 
the elytron of a beetle, apparently the same as a species now found on the same mountains, 
and attached to the piuon. These remains indicate for the formation a comparatively recent 
date, a conclusion confirmed by the manner in which it is associated with the surrounding 
rocks. The rocks of the Sierra at Crystal Peak are entirely igneous or metamorphic in their 
character, and have been tilted into every conceivable position by the agencies which seamed 
them with intruded granite and basalt. Did any of the formations which are known to accom- 
pany the coal fields of Europe and the eastern States occur in this vicinity, even though cov- 
ered up by lava beds, their immense thickness, and the distortions to which they have been 
subjected, would certainly have disclosed their presence, and they might have been recognized 
by their peculiar fossils. They certainly do not exist at Crystal Peak. Had the tufas and 
sandstones containing the so-called coal seams been formed before the elevation of the Sierra, 



316 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

they would have necessarily been tilted and displaced in the same manner as the associated 
rocks, partakinj^ of all the flexures and faults of the mountain range near which they lie. 
Instead of this being the case, the stratification is nearly horizontal, or only slightly inclined. 
In some places the beds have been somewhat tilted, probably by the causes which finally 
raised them above the water level, and gave the present configuration to the surrounding 
country. The conclusion is almost irresistible, that whatever coal is found in the neighbor- 
hood of Crystal Peak will be confined to the small valleys in that vicinity., which, at the period 
when Steamboat valley was an inland sea bounded by the Sierra on the west and the Virginia 
mountains on the east, formed small arms of the lake, and collected more or less of the vege- 
table debris which during violent storms was washed down from the pine forests on the sur- 
rounding hills. There is yet another consideration to be taken into account in estimating the 
probable extent of the deposit. The loss of bulk during the conversion of vegetable matter 
into coal is equal to about three-fourths of the original mass. It becomes evident from this 
that an extensive bed of coal can only be found where there has been, at some remote period, 
most luxuriant forest growth and water sufficient in quantity to convey the debris to vast 
tracts of marshy ground favorable for decomposition. The coal fields of the Eastern States 
and England afford abundant evidence that they were at one time extensive tracts of swampy 
forests, with a tropical climate and a luxuriance of vegetation with which even equatorial 
forests in the present day cannot compete. On the other hand, the remains of plants found 
in the associated rocks at Crystal Peak do notwaiTant ua in entertaining the belief that such 
conditions ever existed in that neighborhood. What we do find point rather to a scanty 
growth, such as is found on the hills to-day. The almost entire absence of animal remains in 
the beds strongly supports this idea. Where there is an abundant vegetation there is gener- 
ally a corresponding abundance of animal life, A'hich could scarcely have failed to leave some 
mementos of its existence. If these views are correct, as there is good reason to believe they 
are, no body of coal will be found in this vicinity which, from its extent or thickness, will 
repay the capital expended in its development. The mere fact of the formation having accu- 
mulated in a contracted mountain valley, limits its extent and value at the same time. The 
thin seams of bituminous matter found between the layers of tufa may have been the product 
of dense growths of tule and other water plants. 



SECTION III. 

COPPER. 

Among the more promising cupriferous localities in the State, is 
The Peavine District, situate about 30 miles northwest of Virginia City, 
being six miles north of the Truckee river, and about the same distance from the 
Central Pacific railroad, with all which it is connected by good wagon roads. 
This district; erected in March, 18G3, has a length of about 20, and an average 
width of 10 or 12 miles. Near its centre is a cluster of small springs, at which 
a house was built in 1860. About these springs grow quantities of wild peavines, 
hence the name of the station and subsequently of the district, which covers a 
region of low hills stretching along the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada. The 
country about the mines is dry, baiTcn, and treeless, though it contains several 
small lakes with a number of springs, and water can be obtained in many places 
by digging wells from 30 to 50 feet deep, while wood, both for fuel and lumber, 
abounds in the Sierra, four or five miles distant. The lodes in this district, foimd 
almost invariably in a granite and metamorphic formation, have a northerly and 
southerly strike, and are from 3 to 12 feet in thickness, with a few of greater 
dimensions. They do not project much above the surface, and although a small 
number have been traced by the outcrop for several hundred yards, and have 
been found persistent for a considerable depth, many of them have the ap])earance 
of sef reflated rather than deep fissured veins. The lodes possessing the best local 
reputation as based on size, assays of ore, and extent of development, are the 
Great Eastern, 20 feet thick, th. Bevelhymer, American Eagle, Enterprise, and 
Metroiwlitan, upon -which tunnel, have been run, varying from 50 to 300 feet in 
leno-th and the Pacific, Indian, Occidental, Young America, Great Western, 
Orient Challenge, and Bay State, all somewhat explored by means of shafts, 
open cuts, and other excavations. The Tolls Company have expended some 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 317 

$4,000 ill prospecting their lode, from wliicli tliey have taken quantities of ore 
assaying from 15 to 40 per cent, of copper, and from $60 to $500 per ton in gold 
and silver. While the above-mentioned claims, as well, perhaps, as many besides, 
cover large and pennanent lodes, others in the district have the appearance of 
being merely limited and superficial deposits. The Peavine ores, composed 
chiefly of carbonates and oxides, besides assaying largely in copper, contain a 
sufficiency of the precious metals to defray cost of transportation to the seaboard, 
when, as will be the case in the course of next year, railroad transit can be had. 
In the metalliferous portions of these veins free gold can frequently be detected by 
the unassisted eye ; particles of this metal being sometimes found on the surface 
where the veinstone has undergone decomposition. The ores of this district give 
by assay from 10 to 50 per cent, of metallic copper, selected samples often going 
much higher. Small lots of the better class of ores have been found by working 
tests to yield from 30 to 40 per cent, of metal. By an assay of these ores made 
by Mr. Ricard, the following results were obtained : 

Gold 0005 $2 50pertou. 

Silver 0200 7 8-5 

Oxide of copper 34.1000 135 00 " 

Peroxide of iron 2.3200 

Alumina 2200 

Sulphur 1.3600 

Carbonic acid 11.2000 

Silicia 46.6600 

Water 3.8400 

Loss 2795 

100.0000 145 35 



Some choice ores reduced at the English Company's mill, seven miles distant 
from the mines, yielded 100 ounces of silver to the ton. Smelting works 
on the Swansea plan, with a capacity for operating 10 or 12 tons of ore daily, 
have been erected in the district, plumbago, obtained from a bed of that mineral 
near "Washoe City, having been employed in their construction. This material 
is abundant in the locality mentioned, and although not yet thoroughly proved, 
there is good reason for believing it well adapted to this and similar uses. Sev- 
eral other furnaces, some of them on a different plan, have been projected, and 
there is a likelihood that one or more of these will be completed and in operation 
in the course of a few months. It is probable, however, that the bulk of these 
ores will be shipped to San Francisco for a market, or sent elsewhere for treat- 
ment when the railroad shall have been completed to this point ; an event that 
promises to revive operations, now nearly suspended, enhance the value of claims, 
and repopulate this eligibly situated and promising district. A town, also 
named Peavine, was laid out in 1863, at the group of springs mentioned. It 
contains several houses, and being adjacent to the mines, should the latter turn 
out according to expectation, its growth will no doubt keep pace with their futm-e 
development. 

The Walker River Copper Regioij' covers a considerable scope of country 
lying between and adjacent to the east and west forks of that stream. The prin- 
cipal mines, so far as developments extend, are distant from the latter in a westerly 
direction, from 3 to 10 miles. This cupriferous belt has an average width of eight 
and a length of about 25 miles. Within these limits some strong veins occur, 
and here most of the labor and money laid out in that region have l)een expended. 
Like the Peavine, this is an arid, sterile, and timbeiiess district ; the only water 
in the immediate vicinity of the mines is afforded by a few small springs, while 
the only vegetable products consist of a scanty growth of bunch grass, artemisia, 
and a few other equally scraggy and worthless shrubs. There are, however, 
scattered groves of piuon on the Pine Nut mountains a few miles to the west, 
while the west branch of Walker river, in close proximity, and at all seasons a 



318 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

strong and rapid stream, supplies every requisite for reduction works. The volume 
of water is ample for propulsive power, and also for floating down fuel and lum- 
ber from tlie heavy pine and spruce forests 30 miles above. The veins here, 
which are numerous, well defined, and of fair average dimensions, have a gener- 
ally north-northeast trend, assay from 12 to 50 per cent, in copper, and from $15 
to $30 per ton in the precious metals. Most of the country rock is of a calcareous 
nature. The ores embrace almost every variety, and often cany small particles 
of virgin metal. The first discoveries were made in this district in 1862, since 
which time a good deal of work in a promiscuous way has been done. Although 
several lodes have been opened to a considerable depth, it can hardly bo said 
that any have been thoroughly explored. Active exertions, except upon a few 
claims, have been suspended for Hie past two years. On the Bewley mine an 
incline shaft 6 feet by 10 has been sunk to a depth of 100 feet. From this lode 
several hundred tons of ore have been extracted which gave an average yield cf 
nearly 40 per cent, of metal. It is well fonned, has a thickness of about six feet, 
has a northerly and southerly strike, and an easterly dip in conformity with the 
prevailing pitch in the district. Other veins located near it and partially opened, 
promise almost equally Avell. Upon the Constitution, Peacock, Ward, and 
Weister lodes, some prospecting work has been performed with encouraging 
results. The former, Avhich is the most extensively opened, exhibits a vein 16 
feet thick, and carries ores that assay from 20 to 30 per cent, of copper, with a 
large percentage of iron, and from $15 to $18 per ton in gold and silver. The 
quantity of iron diminishes as depth is attained on the lode. The Ward and 
Weister lode, lying near the Constitution, and some 10 miles to the westward 
of the river, is about six feet wide, canies a pure gray sulphuret ore of high grade 
with native copper, and from $25 to $30 per ton'in gold and silver. The Pea- 
cock, four miles from the river, is a four-foot vein, i^aipregnated with yellow sul- 
phuret ore assaying about the same as that from the Constitution, In the foot 
hills that flank the Tollock mountains lying between the forks of Walker river, 
as well as in the country contiguous to the main stream and that stretching along 
the western base of the Wassack range west of the Walker lake, occur numerous 
copper-] (earing lodes, Avhich, judging from surface indications — none of them 
having l^ecn much opened — will yet constitute a cupriferous field of considerable 
extent and value. As in the district further west, a variety of ores is met with 
in these localities. The facilities for transportation and reduction arc about the 
same. 

In Battle Mountain district,* in the eastern part of Humboldt county, are 
several deposits of the red oxide of copper. The Dunderberg, the principal lode 
in the district, consists of a mass of silicious rock and limestone nearly 200 feet 
thick, penneated by numerous small veins of this ore, assaying throughout 50 
per cent, of metal. Owing to the remoteness of the district, 90 miles north-north- 
west of Austin, and about the same distance easterly from the settled portions 
of Humboldt county, these deposits, though apparently rich and extensive, pos- 
sess only a prospective value, since they cannot be opened to advantage or worked 
with profit until the railroad, to pass within 10 miles of them, shall be completed. 
With that auxiliary they will probably command the means necessary for devel- 
opment. The country about these mines, though generally barren, contains 
some patches of good land, with a narrow strip of fertile bottoms along the Hum- 
boldt river a few miles distant, to the north. Being without timber, however, 
and the other agents essential to an economical reduction of the ores, the mass 
of them will require to be shipptd elsewhere for treatment. In the Volcano dis- 
trict, Esmeralda county, at a point about 80 miles northeast of Aurora, have been 
found some of the heaviest and apparently richest copper lodes in the State. The 
deposits at this place consist of well-defined veins, some of them of considerable 

* See section on Eastern Nevada. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 319 

magnilucle, and of ore-bearing masses lying upon or projecting from the sm-face. 
The top ores are carbonates, with a sprinkling of other varieties, and at greater- 
depths sulphurets, the average assays of which indicate a fair percentage of cop- 
per and the presence of from $25 to $30 per ton in silver, and from $2 to $10 in 
gold. The region for a considerable distance around is forbidding and desolate ; 
it is scantily supplied with wood and water, and wholly destitute of arable lands. 
Moreover, it is far removed from the line of any contemplated railway, and other- 
wise unfavorably situated for the cheap extraction of the metals and exportation 
of ores ; so that an early development of its mineral resom-ces, of which copper 
forms but one, can hardly be anticipated. About 50 miles southeast of Volcano 
in the San Antonio district, signs of copper manifest themselves over a consid- 
erable scope of countrJ^ The ores at this place are said to be rich, yet nothing 
Las been done to indicate the extent or probable pennanenco of the mines. One 
of the ledges located here at a point two and a half miles east of Montezuma 
Spring, called the Ruby, has a thickness of 12 feet, and, although it caixies a 
variety of metals, copper appears to predominate. In the Bolivia, Mammoth, 
and Palmetto districts, as well as in numerous other localities in different parts 
of the State, strong and well marked veins of copper ore occur. Although many 
of these bear superficial evidence of pennanency, no positive opinion can be pro- 
nounced on this point, since only upon a few of them has any work been done. 
Upon none have explorations been prosecuted to decisive results. 



SECTION IV. 

METEOROLOGY, BOTANY, ZOOLOGY, ETC. 

Of the climate of Nevada so much has been said elsewhere that it only remains 
here to notice a few of what may be considered its meteorological peculiarities ; 
among which the most remarkable are what have been denominated cloud hursts, 
a heavy precipitation of rain caused by the meeting of two clouds surcharged 
with moistm'e. This phenomenon is thought to bo produced through electrical 
agencies, though not enough has been ascertained to settle this full}^ Numbers 
of these '^ cloud bm'sts " occur every summer. They are most frequent in the south- 
ern and western parts of the State. In some instances an immense amount of 
water falls to the earth in a few minutes, filling up gulches and sweeping away 
everything opposed to its progress. Several lives have been lost and considera- 
ble property destroyed in the State dming the past few years through this cause. 

The mirage, an optical illusios caused by saline particles floating in a heated 
atmosphere, is often seen in great perfection on the deserts of Nevada. Some- 
times it takes the form of lakes, with islands and headlands batliing in their lim- 
pid waters ; assuming, at others, though more rarely, the appearance of extensive 
groves and wooded lawns, the whole so closely resembling nature that it requires 
an effort of reason to dispel the illusion. The same or similar atmospheric con- 
ditions sometimes so refract the rays of light as to distort and magnify in a 
strange manner objects seen at a short distance. A sage bush viewed through 
this medium has the appearance of a large spreading tree, and the little cones 
formed by the drifting sand loom like pyramids on the deserts. 

Snoio slides, though often happening in the Sierra, where they sometimes occur 
on a large scale and with fatal results, are not common in the interior of the 
State. Nearly every winter some unfortunate traveller loses his life in the Sierras 
by being overwhelmed by these descending masses of snow. 

Sand storms and sand clouds are regular featm-es of the climatology of this 
region. The former is brought about by certain strong winds, which, blowing 
steadily for some days, so completely fill the air with sand and dust that it ia 



320 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

impossible to see for more than a few rods. Respiration becomes labored, and 
the atmosphere often grows oppressively warm during their continuance, which 
rarely lasts more than a single day. The sand clouds or pillars are formed after 
the manner of water-spouts, and consist of immense bodies of fine sand and dust 
carried to a great height by a rotary and upward, but at the same time advanc- 
ing, current of air, sometimes at a slow and again with a rapid pace. Frequently 
these columns sway high in the atmosphere, and many of them can be seen at 
the same time following each other in majestic procession arcoss the plains. 

This region, like California, has its wet and dry seasons, though the latter is 
scarcely so long or uninterrupted here as there, nor is the precipitation during 
the wet season so great. Summer showers, accompanied with thunder and light- 
ning, are more frequent in Nevada than in California, though much less common than 
in the States east of the Rocky mountains. 

Both the fauna and flora of Nevada lack fullness and variety. The indigenous 
plants and flowers are few, while the animal kingdom, except in the department 
of insect life, is barren almost beyond example. "With the exception of the pine- 
nut, a few wild currants and gooseberries, and one or two other inferior kinds of 
berries, found only in a few localities, and none of them very plentiful, there is 
little in the vegetable world that civilized man considers eatable. There are few 
or no wild plums, blackbenies, strawbcnies, or grapes. The wild cherries found 
growing on a scrubby bush in some of the canons are small, bitter, and astrin- 
gent. The Indians find many medicinal herbs and esculent roots, but neither 
are much esteemed by white men. In the tule about the sink of the Humboldt 
and Carson grows a species of cane which exudes a sweet sirup that, drying in 
small lumps on the surface, forms a tolerable article of sugar. Wild flax and 
tobacco are found occasionally growing on the hills, and along the Humboldt a 
species of wild hemp is met with, having a long and stout fibre, which may, 
with cultivation, come to form an important textile. The artemesia or wild sage, 
a scraggy shrub growing from one to six feet high, is found nearly everywhere. 
This species is worthless for anything except fuel, though there is a small white 
kind of sage upon wdiich cattle feed with avidity after it has been visited by the 
first frosts of autumn. The cactus, growing but sparsely in the northern and 
central parts of the State, is common further south, where, also, the mesquit tree 
abounds. Game, with the exception of sage hen and hare, is scarce in all parts 
of the State. There are no wildcats, panthers, bears, or other animals that can 
justly be called beasts of prey. The nearest approach to these are the coyote 
and wolf, of which there are a few in all parts of the country. On some of the 
more lofty ranges are to bo seen occasionally small herds of mountain sheep. 
These animals are shy and fleet, keeping usually in the more rugged and inac- 
cessible parts of the mountains. The beaver,^ otter, martin, foxes, fishers, and 
other fur-bearing animals that drew the trapper into this region in the early day, 
have nearly all disappeared, and now rarely fall a prey to the hunter. About 
the sinks and lakes geese, ducks, cranes, and pelicans are, at certain seasons of 
the 3'ear, plentiful. These, with the sage hen, raven, an occasional eagle, and 
a sprinkling of small birds, comprise all there is to represent the feathered race 
in the country. Reptiles are also scarce, and are .mostly confined to a few horned 
toads, spotted lizards, and snakes^ of which the only venomous kind is the rat- 
tlesnake. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 321 

SECTION V. 

SOCIAL, INDUSTEIAL, AND EDUCATIONAL PROGRESS. 

In all these departments Nevada lias made rapid and gratifying progress. 
Tier population is distinguished for industry, order, and a ready obedience to 
lawful authority. Already nearly 30 chm'ch edifices have been erected in the 
State, at a cost ranging from $2,000 to $40,000 each, and an aggregate expense 
of about $300,000. These represent the leading Christian denominations, and 
are in some cases spacious and handsome buildings. Numerous well conducted 
schools have been established under an enlightened educational system, for the 
support of which liberal provision has been made by the State. There is also 
a number of academies, seminaries, and high schools sustained by private pat- 
ronage. Capacious halls for literary, social, and benevjolent purposes have been 
erected in all the large towns, several of which are supplied with gas and water 
works and commodious buildings for municipal uses. Besides many minor indus- 
trial estal)lishments, several large founckies and machine shops have been erected 
in the vicinity of Virginia, and one, also of considerable capacity, at Austin, 
near the centre of the State. A salt mill, an acid factory, and a tannery and 
pottery speak of the diversified pursuits now obtaining a foothold, and a well- 
patronized press, issuing five daily and as many weekly journals, indicate the 
intelligence and enlightenment of the people. Of the agricultm-al capacities 
and products of the country so much has been said elsewhere in this report that 
they need only be glanced at in a summary way in this connection. The entire 
amount of land, arable and grazing, enclosed in the State may be roughly esti- 
mated at 150,000 acres, of which one-quarter at least is planted to grain, givirg 
an average yield of about 20 bushels to 1. Nearly every cereal grown in tlie 
most favored regions elsewhere can, with proper care, be successfully grown here. 
Even the more delicate fruits common in the temperate zones, such as pears, 
peaches, and grapes, can be raised in Nevada if the soil and site be judiciously 
selected and their culture properly attended to, while in the matter of vegetables, 
except the more tender kind, no country can produce them with greater facility 
or of better quality if the requisite attention bo paid to their culture. Besides 
the vegetables and grain raised in this State, large quantities of butter and 
cheese are annually produced, and these commodities are very justly esteemed 
for their excellent flavor. Taken in the aggregate, the amount of stock kept in 
the State is quite large; the neat cattle number betAveen 11,000 and 12,000, and 
the horses and mules kept for farming puiposes and draft about G,000, besides 
between 3,000 and 4,000 sheep and about the same number of swine. The 
ranges of mountain pasturage found in many parts of the State, with an almost 
universal absence of weeds, burs, and wild animals to injure the v.'ool and endan- 
ger the lives of the flock, should recommend this country to wool growers and 
sheep herders abroad. The tule lands furnish a good field for raising sv.ine. 
These animals thrive well on the root of that rush, even without other food. 
It is estimated that there were 75,000 tons of hay cut and G,000 tons of grairx. 
raised in the State the present year, besides sufficient vegetables for home con 
sumption. There are three flour mills, one in operation and two in course of 
erection ; 24 saw-mills, driving 35 saws, and having a capacity to cut daily from 
5,000 to 20,000 feet of lumber each, or an aggregate of 180,000 feet. The 
most of these mills are propelled by steam. Their cost ranges from $5,000 to • 
$15,000 ; total cost, about $175,000. The number of quartz mills and reduc- 
tion works in this State, including such as are in course of erection, having their 
machinery and material on the ground, \\ ith the prospect of an early completion, 
may be set down at 160. The most of these mills are driven by steam, the wholo 
can-ying an aggregate of about 1,300 stamps. The individual cost of these 
establishments varies from $3,000 to $950,000, the cost of the greater part rang- 
21 



322 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

ing from $40,000 to 860,000 each, tliongli quite a number liave cost $100,000, 
and several much larger sums. At the present time nearly all of these establish- 
ments are in constant and profitable operation. None of those completed and 
in condition to do good work are idle. About 60 miles of ditching, the most of 
it of large capacity, has been constructed in the State for the purpose of con- 
ducting water to jDoints where required for the use of mills or for domestic wants, 
besides a large amount of work expended on other projects of this kind but par- 
tially completed and a multitude of smaller ditches dug for irrigating purposes. 
Over 1,000 miles of toll-road, some portions of it very costly, has been built, 
either for subserving local necessities and wholly within the State, or for the 
purpose of improving tlioroughfares over the Sierra, or connecting those with 
points in the interior. The sums expended on account of these improvements 
amount in the aggregate to scarcely less than a million of dollars 



SECTION VI. 

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 

This county, named after the late Stephen A. Douglas, is situate centrally on 
the western border of the State, having Ormsby and Lyon counties on the north, 
Esmeralda on the east, and California on the west and south. It has an area of 
about 1,500 square miles, forming in this respect the fom-th county in the State, 
though it contains more valuable timber land than any other, except Washoe, as 
well as a greater quantity of good agricultural land in proportion to its size. In 
1861 it contained a population of 1,057 ; the present population is about 2,000. 
The western part of this county is covered by the Sierra Nevada mountains, and 
the eastern by the Pine Nut range, Carson valley, embracing about 200 square 
miles lying between them. About one-third of this valley consists of good 
farming and meadow lands ; the remainder consists of gravelly and sandy sage 
barrens, the most of it incapable of producing good grain crops, even with the aid 
of carefial culture and irrigation. There are in this valley several thousand acres 
of tule land, which by diking and drainage might be converted into valuable pas- 
ture and hay lands. With the exception of about 2,000 acres of arable land 
lying in Jack's valley, one mile northwest of Carson, nearly all the tillable soil 
in this county is embraced within the limits of the latter, or the mountain ravines 
tributary to it. Outside of these, Douglas county possesses a generally rugged 
surface and a barren soil, the latter incapable, except where covered with forests, 
of producing anything beyond its native growth, the artemesia, and a scanty 
crop of bunch grass. Much of the soil on the hills and mountains would grow 
fair crops of grain could it be irrigated, but for this there are, unfortunately, 
but limited facilities. Carson river, Bowing centrally through the valley, together 
with the numerous streams coming down from the Sien-a, afford, to a certain extent, 
means for in'igation and for the propulsion of machinery. To the latter use a 
sufficiency of it has been diverted for driving the machinery of six saw mills 
and one flour mill, without more than partially appropriating the power that 
could be obtained. These mills, including also a steam mill situated in the 
western part of the country, cost in the aggregate about $40,000, and have 
a united caj^acity for cutting 50,000 feet of lumber per day. The timber 
lands, from Avhich a good article of lumber can be made, amount to between 
60,000 and 70,000 acres within the limits of the county. This timber is situate 
on the Sierra Nevada. The Pine Nut range contains only scattered gloves of 
pifion, the greater portion of it is destitute of even this. There are no quartz 
mills in tliis county. As yet no productive mines have been developed within 
its boundaries, Agricultm'e, hay making, and stock ranching constitute the 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 323 

principal pursuits of its inhabitants ; the number of work horses and mules con- 
tained in it being estimated at 800 ; the neat cattle at 1,800, and the swine at 
400. Much poultry is also kept by the farmers, and considerable quantities of 
butter and cheese are made annually. The amount of hay cut here in 1866 
reached 15,000 tons ; the grain raised was estimated at 570 tons. Thirty thou- 
sanda acres of land have been enclosed, of which between 6,000 and 7,000 are 
under cultivation. Douglas is well supplied with wagon roads. The extensive 
valley occupying its centre, and the numerous mountain passes loading out of it, 
favor their construction. Genoa, the county seat and only town in the county of 
considerable size, contains about 400 inhabitants. Besides a brick school-house 
and two churches, it contains a handsome court-house erected at a cost of $20,000. 
The value of taxable property in the country is estimated at $600,000. There 
are numerous hot springs situate in and along the margin of Carson valley, but 
none of them are of a magnitude or possessed of other features requiring special 
notice. 

While, as observed, no mines have been developed to a productive state in this 
county, it is believed to contain some valuable cupriferous, if not also argen- 
tiferous, lodes, upon some of which a large amount of exploratory labor has 
been expended. Commencing in 1859, several mining districts have since been 
laid out in the county, the earlier with a view to operations on silver-bearing 
lodes ; one or two, more recently erected in the eastern part of the county, for 
the purpose of securing and working the copper veins existing at that point. 
These latter districts, and one or two others, are all that still maintain their 
organization. The rest, created under excitement and insufficient exploration, 
have long since been abandoned. For fuller information touching these cup- 
riferous lodes the article on copper may be consulted. The Eagle district, situate 
on the Pine Nut range in the southern part of the county, contains a number of 
quartz veins, some of them displaying prominent outcrops. In the work of 
exploring two of these ledges, the Peck and the Mammoth, a thousand feet of 
tunneling has been run. Operations, commenced in 1860, were continuously 
prosecuted for four or five years thereafter, and although the ledge has been pene- 
trated in these claims at a considerable depth, no paying body of ore has been 
developed. It is said the work, for some time suspended, is to be resumed. 
Already about 8100,000 have been expended upon these two claims, from neither 
of which has any amount of millable ore been extracted. Adjoining Douglas 
on the south are situate Markleyville, Mogul, Monitor, Silver Mountain, and 
several other less important districts, all silver-producing and lying east of the 
Sierra, though in Alpine county, California. They are located on the head- waters 
of Carson river, distant from 20 to 40 miles from Genoa. In the vicinity of the lat- 
ter place is a district bearing the same name and stretching along the base of the 
Sierra, in which a good many claims were located about six years ago. Here 
afterwards a large amount of work was done and money expended, but Vv'ith no 
very determinate results. The outlay at this point, divided among some ten or 
twelve companies, could scarcely have been less than $200,000, over 3,000 linear 
feet of tunnelling having been excavated, besides other work done. For the past 
year or two operations have been suspended, and, as is generally supposed, with 
no prospect of an early resumption. Could a heavy body of moderately rich 
ore be found at this spot it could hardly fail to impart value to these mines, 
owing to the cheapness with which it could be worked by reason of their prox- 
imity to wood and water. The prospect, however, of reaching even this result 
is not encouraging. In a range of low hills at the north end of Carson valley 
some small veins of gold and silver-beaiikig quartz were found about a year ago. 
Upon these several shafts have been sunk, and in the limited operations conducted 
at this place is to be found nearly all the work now being done upon mines within 
the bounds of this county. 



324 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

SECTION VII. 

OR MS BY COUNTY. 

Tills county, wlilcli adjoins Douglas on the nortli, takes Its name from William 
Oraisby, an early settler on the eastern slope and one of the founders of Carson 
City. Though of small dimensions, devoid of productive mines, and containing 
but a moderate amount of arable land, its central and other^^■ise eligible situa- 
tion, extensive pineries, and ample water power have built up within it important 
industries, rendering the population among the most thrifty in the State. Carson 
City is the capital of the State, and has been selected for the site of the United 
States branch mint. The census report of 18G1 showed the county to contain 
2,076 inhabitants, a number now increased to about 2,500, of whom two-thirds 
perhaps reside in Carson City, and a sixth in Empire, a milling hamlet, situate 
on the river three miles east of Carson. A large proportion of the inhabitants 
are engaged in teaming, lumbering, and cutting fire-wood. Three-fourths of the 
county is covered with mountains. The SieiTa occupies the western and the 
Pine Nut range the eastern parts. These mountains are here timbered as in 
Douglas county, and the broad and sandy plain, fertile only in its western part, 
known as Eagle valley, lies between them. Across from south to north runs the 
Carson river, affording good water-power and an easy channel for floating down saw- 
logs and fuel from the forests about the head-waters of this stream. The quan- 
tity of these materials thus brought do"v\ai to Empire amounts to 5,000,000 feet 
lumber and 5,000 cords of wood annually. The streams issuing from the Sierra 
also supply a considerable amount of propulsive poAver, besides furnishing Carson 
City with water for domestic uses, and the arable land about it, of which there 
are several thousand acres, with means for inigation, nearly the whole of this 
water having thus been utilized. A considerable amount of lumber is made 
in this county. The forests of pine and fir Avith water power in their midst, and 
the proximity of the Comstock mines, insure a constant market and supply 
many advantages for canying on the business. The wood lands consist of about 
20,000 acres of large timber, situate in the Sierra, and 2,000 or 3,000 acres of 
scattered pinon fit only for fuel. About 2,000,000 feet of lumber and 14,000 
cords of wood are annually cut within the limits of the county, besides that 
floated down the Carson. There are three saw-mills in the county, built at an 
aggregate cost of $30,000 ; daily capacity 40,000 feet. About G,000 acres of 
land are under fence, of which 200 are sown to grain and 100 planted with vege- 
tables. Last year 200 tons of hay were cut and 180 tons of grain raised, 25 of 
wheat, 50 of oats, and 105 of barley, the average yield being nearly 40 bushels 
per acre. This is about the proportion in which these several kinds of grain are 
raised throughout the State, though this yield is much above the average. The 
county contains 430 horses and mules, 700 head of neat cattle, 200 of which are 
milch cows and 450 work oxen, 250 sheep, and 500 swine. A tannc-ry and acid 
works at Carson City, with sandstone quanies near by, together with lime and char- 
coal burning, and the several pursuits already mentioned, give to this county a more 
varied industry than is common elsewhere in the State. The acid works have 
engaged in the manufacture of sulphmic acid, an article employed in the beuefi- 
ciating of silver ore, with fan- prospects of success. About 2,000 pounds of 
sulphur, procured from the beds in Humboldt county, are consumed here weekly. 
The sandstone quarries yield a good article of building material. It is easily 
gotten out and is readily shaped by the chisel when first quamed, but hardens 
on exposm'c to the atmosphere. The United States branch mint is constructed 
of this stone, as are also the penitentiary, county buildings, used for State pm-- 
poses, and many of the better class of edifices in Carson City. Near the town 
are two large hot springs, one of which has been handsomely improved for 
bathing pm^poses. Five miles to the northeast is a bed of white marble, very 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 325 

pure and easily ■^Tought. Granular limestone is found at several places. Cop- 
per, iron, and coal are among the mineral products of Ormsby, as elsewhere 
related. There are eight quartz mills in this count}'-, five driven by water and 
three by water and steam, the whole can-ying 175 stamps and .costing 8450,000. 
They are all kept nmning on ores from the Comstock vein. The Mexican, one 
of the largest of the number, has been engaged for some time past in working 
over the sulphurets which for several years had been accumulating in the com- 
pany's reservoir. 

Although numerous mining districts have been laid off in this county, some as 
early as 1859, and a large amount of work done on a few of the ledges located, 
no mineral deposits of value have been reached, nor has much attention been 
paid to the business of mining for the past few years. In the Eagle district, the 
earliest erected, lying along the base of the Sierra west of Carson City, several 
lodes were located in 1859, some of which having been extensively prospected 
the following year by means of shafts and tunnels, and not turning out according 
to expectation, the whole was abandoned. The nest season a fitful interest was 
awakened in regard to supposed valuable discoveries made on the bald hills south- 
west of the town, which having led to the locating of many claims in that neigh- 
borhood, eventuated, soon after, in then* total abandonment, since which time 
nothing further has been done either towards locating or working mines in the 
district. The same year the Clear Creek district was the scene of much excite- 
ment and activity. Extensive mining grounds were taken up and prospecting 
operations initiated. Here a number of long tunnels were afterwards driven 
and deep shafts sunk, but none of them availed to reach ore deposits of a remu- 
nerative kind, and the district, under an absence of population and an entire 
cessation of labor for several years, is considered practically abandoned. In the 
S jllivan district, east of Carson river, organized in 1860, there were many locations 
made and much desultory work done during that and the following year ; and 
although some of the lodes proved highly auriferous in spots, they failed, so far 
as penetrated, in the matter of persistence and regularity. Another drawback 
npon the success of these mines was at that time experienced in the absence of 
mills for working the ores, which were, therefore, unavailable, compelling claim- 
holders who were without means to suspend work, leaving the problem as to the 
character and value of these lodes still unsolved. The ores in most of these 
districts carry considerable copper, and in some cases a notable percentage of 
free gold. Washings for the latter metal have been found remunerative at 
several localities in the county. At a spot three miles west of Carson sluicing 
operations were for some time canned on, having been in progress until recently. 
Although no regular vein was found, the smface earth gave fair returns in free 
gold. 



SECTIOX yiii. 

WASHOE COUNTY. 

This county takes its name from the tribe of aborigines who formerly inhab- 
ited this part of the State. It lies north of Onnsby ; its western poi-tion covers 
a large and well timbered section of the Sierra, and its central a chain of fertile 
valleys, of Avhich Washoe, Pleasant, Steamboat, Truckee and Long are the 
piincipal. With the exception of these valleys, which contain about 150,000 
acres of farming and grass lands and the timber lands mentioned, nearly the 
entire county consists of sage plains, rugged hills and mountains. The most of 
it is arid, barren, and unfit for cultivation, the only vegetable growth found 
upon it being a sparse crop of bunch grass, and in a few spots groves of scrubby 



326 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

pine. The valleys, liowever, are extremely fertile, and witli careful cultivation 
and irrigation are made to produce Lay, grain and vegetables. Considerable 
quantities of butter and cheese are also made. At tlie south end of Washoe 
valley is situated a shallow lake five miles long and two wide, the surplus waters 
of which run through a slough and are made to do service in driving several 
quartz mills at "Washoe City, a few miles below. The numerous streams fulling 
from the SieiTa are also employed for propelling quartz and saw mills located 
along them. Pleasant valley, a small but fertile basin, lies two miles north of 
Washoe. Steamboat valley, the site of the hot springs elsewhere described, lies 
three miles north of Pleasant valley. It contains some good land, opening eight 
miles below the hot springs into the Truckee meadows, a tract embracing several 
thousand acres of partly arable and grass lands. The population of this county 
numbers about 3,000. It contains several small towns, of which Ophir, situate 
near the mill and reduction works of the Ophir Company, has 500, and Washoe 
City, the county seat, three miles further north, 800. Franktown, Galena, 
Crystal Peak, and Glendale — the latter two on the Truckee — are small agricul- 
tural and mining hamlets containing from 100 to 200 inhabitants each. 

While the wealth of the county consists largely of its agricultural resources, 
the business of lumbering and quartz milling is also extensivel}^ engaged in. 
The annual product of hay amounts to about 7,000 tons, and of grain to 1,500 
tons. There are 800 horses and mules and 1,000 head of neat cattle in the 
county, nearly half of the latter being milch cows ; sheep and swine number 
about 500 each. There are 20,000 acres of land enclosed, of which 4,000 are 
under cultivation. There are 15 saw-mills, most of them driven by steam power ; 
the whole cut about 1,300,000 feet of lumber per month, besides lath and 
shingles, for making which several of them have machines attaclied. In addition 
to this, 400,000 feet of hewn timber and largo quantities of cord wood are cut 
for the Virginia market. Although this count}', like Douglas and Ormsby, is 
without productive mines, there are ten quartz mills within its limits, several of 
which are large and first-class in then- appointments. The Ophir Company's 
mill carries 72 stamps and cost half a million of dollars. Call's mill at Frank- 
town, burnt last spring but since rebuilt, carries 60 stamps and cost a quarter of 
a million. Most of these nrills are propelled by steam ; several employ both 
steam and water. They cany, in the aggregate, 281 stamps, and cost 81,420,000. 
With the exception of the English Company's mill on the Truckee, built iu 
advance of mining developments, all these establishments are now running on 
Comstock ores, and generally with remunerative results. 

The amount of taxable property in the county, in 1861, was $1,140,000; in 
1863, 82,527,500, and is now believed to be at least $3,000,000. There 
have been 30 miles of canal built for conducting water to mills and other enter- 
prises of this kind projected, some of which may be carried out. Although 
abounding in metalliferous lodes and mineral deposits of different kinds, the county 
is still without ore-yielding mines, a circumstance attributable, in the case of gold 
and silver-bearing lodes, partially to the baiTcmiess of the latter in their upper 
portions, and in part to the superficial and ill-directed character of prospecting 
labors. Of the deposits of copper and coal, mention has been made elsewhere. 
A number of mining districts have at various times been formed, some of them 
as early as 1859, the year of the silver discovery. In the spring of 1860 the 
Argentine district, lying in the range of mountains east of Washoe vallej^, was 
erected; and although the ledges there have periodically since been the subjects 
of sanguine expectation, the ore procured from them has done little towards 
meeting the expenses incurred in their partial development. Scarcely any work 
has been done in the district for the last three years, and the lodes can 
liardly be said to possess any present value. The history of this, the first dis- 
trict formed, will serve to illustrate that of all others subsequently erected, in 
every one of which the high hopes at one time entertained failed of final reafiza- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 327 

tion. Of the many claims located throughout the county nearly all may he 
considered abandoned, nor is it probable that work will ever be resumed on more 
than a few of them. The quartz veins, though of fair size, are generally hard 
and vitreous, the country rock being mostly raetamorphic slate and granite. The 
ores are usually impregnated with compounds of iron and copper, carrying also, 
in some cases, a small percentage of sulphuretted silver, with particles of native 
metal and a sprinkling of free gold. So much of the latter has been found in 
the earth at several points as to afford fair surface digging for a short time. In 
the "Wisconsin district, at the south end of Washoe valley, several companies 
made wages for a period of some months, sluice-washing the auriferous ground 
at that place. The Galena district, as its name implies, abounds in the sulphuret 
of lead, which here occurs in the shape of an argentiferous galena. The metal 
extracted from it assays about $200 per ton in silver. The vein matter carries 
from 20 to 60 per cent, of metallic lead. Between the walls of the veins and the 
gangue rests a thin stratum of arsenical pyrites, so placed, however, as to render 
their mechanical separation easy. Upon several of these lodes work has been 
done. The Alford has been explored by means of a tunnel several hundred feet 
long and an inclin-^ shaft sunk at its tenninus. Various attempts have been 
made to reduce this ore by smelting, none of which have met with entire success. 
The principal lode having lately passed into the hands of a company possessed 
of ample means and the requisite skill, better results, it is believed, will be reached 
through the efforts now about to be made for smelting it on a large scale. The 
Silver Peak district, besides the beds of lignite there found, contains a number 
of metalliferous lodes, some of which prospect well in the precious metals. The 
facilities enjoyed through the forests and water power at that place will secure 
the working of low grade ores with profit, if only the quantity be large and easily 
procured. A lot of ore taken from the Truckee Ophir, a large ledge and the 
only one yet much opened, was found to yield by mill process at the rate of $30 
per ton in gold and silver. A town has been laid out near these mines which, 
as it is within two miles of the Truckee river and the Central Pacific railroad, 
and sun'ounded with forests, has the promise of growth. Several saw-mills in 
the vicinity afready find market for all the lumber they can make, and, with the 
raifroad completed, quantities of this article will probably be manufactured at 
this point. 



SECTION IX. 

STOREY COUNTY. 

This county, named in honor of Captain Storey, who lost his life in the Indian 
fight near Pyramid lake, in the spring of 1S60, is not only of limited extent but 
extremely barren, containing a smaller amount of good land, less timber, and 
fewer streams than any other in the State. It is, in fact, without agricultm-al, 
lumbering, or even milling resources, except in the latter case where some have 
been supplied by steam. The only pasturage is that afforded by the bunch- 
grass — short-lived and scanty at best, since there is little of it except on the 
mountains, and when once eaten off does not readily grow up again the same 
season. Originally there was a sparse growth of pinon on the hills about Vir- 
ginia, but it is now nearly all cut away, leaving both the town and the mills 
dependent on outside localities for fuel. Nearly all the northern and western 
part of the county, embracing fully tliree-fomths of its area, lies on the high and 
barren chain of mountains known as the Washoe range, and which, commencing 
near Carson City, extends to the Truckee river, forming a sort of spur or off-shoot 
of the main Sierra. Situated along the eastern slope of this range, about half- 



328 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEREITORIES 

way up its side, and ranning parallel witli its longitudinal axis, is tlie Comstock 
lode, Avitli Virginia City built immediately over it, and Gold Hill, half a mile 
fmtlier south, a little below the line of its strike.* The eastern part of the county 
is composed of the desolate sage barren stretching from the Carson north to the 
Truckee river — a treeless, arid and sandy waste, alike destitute of vegetable and 
animal life. Storey, like all its sister counties, has been the theatre of numerous 
mining excitements, leading to the creation and sudden peopling of new districts 
to be almost as suddenlj' abandoned and soon after forgotten. In this manner 
at least a dozen districts have first and last been formed, scarcely any of which 
continue to maintain their organization or are recognized as having a legal 
existence. Still there are a number of districts in the county besides those of 
Virginia and Gold Hill that continue to be recognized as valid, and in some of 
which, as the American Flat and Flowery, there is much work being done, and 
in a few instances with satisfactory results or good prospects of ultimate success. 
The amount of land enclosed by fence does not exceed 5,000 acres in the comity, 
of which 1,000, perhaps, are under cultivation, a good share of it being planted 
with vegetables, which in a few choice localities are found to do well. Some 
attempts at raising fruit in a small way have also been attended with success. 
About 100 tons of hay are cut yearly in the county, but as yet no grain has been 
raised. Storey contains about 1,000 head of work-horses and mules, 500 neat 
cattle — one-half of them milch cows — 100 sheep and 400 swine. An immense 
number of beef cattle, sheep and hogs are slaughtered here annuall}^, the most 
of which are driven in from California. For its size there is a great extent of 
costly toll road in this county, several hundred thousand dollars having been 
laid out in this class of improvements, some of which return large revenues to 
the owners. The assessable property in the county amounted for 1S66 to 
$6,343,353, the esthnate for the present year being about $7,000,000. Storey 
county contains 63 quartz mills canying 665 stamps, all, except two or three of 
small capacity, driven by steam, the aggregate cost of the whole being $3,500,000. 
The population, which in 1861 reached 4,500, is now estimated at 12,000. 



SECTION X. 
LYON COUNTY. 

Lyon county, named after General Lyon, who fell in Missomi during the late 
rebellion, bears a strong resemblance in its general features to Storey, except 
that it contains a considerable tract of pifion on the Pine Nut range, occupying 
the eastern part of the county, and a belt of good land situate along the Carson 
river running through the centre. A multitude of ledges have been located iu 
the various mining districts formed from time to time within the limits of this 
county, the money expended upon which has amounted in the aggregate to mil- 
lions of dollars ; yet, with the exception of the Daney mine and some small lodes 
along Gold canon, nothing affording a steady supply of pay ore has been developed 
in the county, though there are unquestionably many lodes that a more persistent 
mode of exploration might have brought to a paying point. The only districts 
in the county that continue to maintain an organization are the Devil's Gate, the 
earliest formed, the Blue Sulphur Spring, Brown's Indian Spring, and Palmyra, 
in none of which has much active mining been carried on for the past three years. 
Of the coal deposits situated in the Pine Nut moinitains a description will bo fouijd 
in the article treating of that mineral. In the absence of productive mines, milling, 
teaming and wood-chopping have become the leading pursuits of the inhabitants, 

* See Section XVI, on the Comstock lode. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 329 

ven- little attention being paid to agriculture, as, indeed, there is but little arable 
land in the county. The hay cut amounts to about 1,000 tons annually; the 
grain raised to 100 tons ; a good many vegetables of fine quality being also raised. 
Lyon contains 500 horses and mules, 200 head of neat cattle, 100 sheep, and 
150 swine. About 5,000 acres of land is fenced in, of -which 1,500 is under 
cultivation. The inhabitants, numbering 1,650 in 18G1, are now estimated at 
2,500. There are 41 quartz mills in the county — 13 driven by water, 22 by 
steau), and six by water and steam — the whole canying 600 stamps and costing 
SI, 500, 000. The only considerable towns in the county are Silver City in Gold 
cafion, and Dayton on Carson river, each containing about 1,200 inhabitants. 



SECTION XI. 

ROOP COUNTY. 

This county, occupying a long and narrow strip of territory in the northwest- 
em part of the State, is named after Isaac N. Roop, an early settler in Honey 
Lake Valley, and at one time governor of the Provisional Ten'itory of Nevada. 
It was at first called Lake, having been changed to Roop in 1862. The county 
has never been organized, but is attached to Washoe for judicial and political 
purposes. At the time it was first erected, in 1861, it was supposed to embrace 
within its limits Honey Lake valley, the only settlement in it. The adjustment 
of the boundary line between Nevada and California, in 1863, having thrown 
this valley into the latter, left this county almost without population. The 
settlement since then of Surprise Valley, in the extreme northwestern part of the 
State, has brought within the boundaries of Roop a population of several hun- 
dred, a number which is likely soon to be further augmented, as the county is 
reputed to be rich in mineral wealth, and there are known to be considerable 
tracts of good land in the northern part still open for occupation. This region, 
including also the northern and western parts of Humboldt county, has for 
a long time been infested by a vicious race of Indians, whose presence has 
tended greatly to retard its exploration and settlement; but as these savages 
are now pretty well subdued, the country is likely in a short time to become 
more thoroughly prospected and its value for mining and agricultural purposes 
more fully ascertained. The greater portion of it is undoubtedly very baiTcn and 
forbidding, consisting for the most part of rough, arid, and timberless mountains, 
or equally dry and sterile plains. All accounts, however, agree in representing 
Sm'prise valley as being extensive and fertile, and one of the finest districts, both 
for stock-raising and grain growing, in the State. This valley, a portion of 
which lies in Cahfornia, is 50 miles long and from 10 to 15 broad. It extends 
north and south ; contains three lakes which cover nearly one half its area. It 
is Availed in on the west by a lofty spur of the Sien-a Nevada, having a range 
of low rolling hills on the east. The mountains on the west are well timbered 
with white and yellow pine, and along their lower slopes with cedar. The 
arable land lies along the base of this range and between it and the lakes, having 
a gentle declivity towards the latter, and is covered at all seasons of the year 
with a luxuriant growth of blue-joint, clover, timothy and rye grass, some of 
which is six and seven feet high, and standing so close that in places four tons 
of hay can be cut to the acre. Across this alluvial belt, which is several miles 
wide, course every few miles streams of pure cold water, affording propulsive 
power and the facilities for irrigation. The land is light, warm, and easily culti- 
vated, and produces with little trouble prolific crops of grain. The planting of 
1866 yielded an average of 50 bushels of wheat and nearly 60 of barley to 
the acre. The grain is clean and heavy. This year the crops^ under more 



330 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

extensive planting, have been equally good. Vegetables can be grown with 
very little care. The climate of this valley is mild and healtliful. Very little 
snow falls in winter, and sickness amongst the inhabitants is of rare occurrence. 
Stock require neither shelter nor fodder in the winter, but are able to keep fat 
the year round on the native grasses. There are at the present time about 
10,000 head of cattle, and 3,000 horses grazing here, many of which having been 
driven in from California for the purpose of being recruited, will, as soon as they 
become fat, be taken away. The population numbers about 250, and is con- 
stantly increasing, as the settlers feel safe under the military protection now 
extended to them, against fm'ther Indian depredations. Along the base of the 
mountain on the west side of the valley are a multitude of warm springs, some 
of them remarkable for their depth and volume. Free gold has been found in 
small quantities on several streams in this part of the country, and there is reason 
for believing that both vein mining and smface digging will yet be carried on 
here with profit. With a mining population to consume the products of the 
fanner, this region could scarcely fail to fill up rapidly with a hardy and pros- 
perous people. 



SKCTION III. 

HUMBOLDT COUNTY. 

This county, named after the principal river running through it, ranks aiiiong 
the larger counties of the State. Its western half is covered with sandy deserts, 
low ranges of mountains, isolated hills, and extensive alkali flats, converted in 
the wet season into mud lakes. The northern and eastern portions consist of 
lofty chains of mountains, broken towards the northeast into in-egular masses, 
and running in the southeast in narroiv parallel ranges separated by valleys of a 
similar conformation. Taken as a whole the region is dr}^, desolate, and but 
illy supplied with grass and water. Timber is also very scarce in most parts of 
this county, there being none fit for lumber. The only trees found here are the 
piuon and a scrubby species of juniper, the latter of little value even for fuel. 
The quantity of agricultural land is also comparatively small, being confined mostly 
to the valleys of the Humboldt river and of Weniessa, Umashaw, and Weather- 
low creeks, with some isolated spots of good soil in the larger valleys and at the 
entrance to the mountain canons. Bunch grass is found nearly everywhere 
except on the alkali flats and arid deserts, though in many places it is much 
scattered and far from abundant. High basaltic table lands cut by fissure-like 
chasms, constitute a feature in the northwestern part of the county. In many 
of these depressions, which have precipitous sides varying from 200 to 1,000 
feet high, are small alkali lakes, the beds of which become perfectly white on 
drying uji in summer, from the depositions of magnesia, salt, and soda loft 
behind. To the south of this region occur in then- greatest extent the mud lakes 
peculiar to the geography of Nevada, in the midst of which is situated the 
Black Rock mining district, the Pueblo and Vicksburg districts, the only ones 
in this part of the State, lying further north and very near the Oregon line. 
Humboldt county contained, August, 1S61, about 400 inhabitants. The present 
population is estimated at between 1,200 and 1,300, not so many by one-half as 
it was four years ago, a falling off" due to the great disadvantanges under which 
the mines here have to be opened rather than to the poverty of the mines them- 
selves. Among these disadvantages the lack of timber, and in some localities 
of even wood for fuel, and the cost of freights stand foremost. When the Pacific 
railroad, striking through the very heart of the Humboldt mining region, shall 
have been completed, thereby obviating in some measure these difficulties, this 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 331 

section must receive an impulse that will awaken the energies of the inhabitants 
.and restore the confidence once felt in the district. It is estimated that there 
are 200,000 acres of arable land in the county, much of which is now a natural 
meadow^ being covered with a coarse species of grass, and all of which could, 
with irrigation, be made to produce crops of grain or the cultivated grasses. 
Without artificial moistm-e but little of the soil is capable of maturing either 
grain or vegetables, though with its aid both can be grown. There is nearly 
everywhere pasturage enough both winter and summer for a small amount of 
stock, or for a large amount if the latter be sufiiciently scattered. The stock is 
estimated at 500 head of horses and mules, 400 head of neat cattle, 200 sheep, 
and 300 swine. There are 15,000 acres of land enclosed, 4,000 under cultiva- 
tion; 3,000 tons of hay are cut, and 1,000 tons of grain raised annually, the 
most of them in Humboldt and Paradise valleys, the latter embracing between 
20,000 and 30,000 acres of well-watered aud fertile farming land. Here a 
number of settlers have located during the past three years, nearly all of whom 
ai'e doing a thrifty business raising grain and vegetables, or in cutting liay for 
the Humboldt and Owyhee markets, or for supplying the military post estab- 
lished in the valley. The yield of the cereals here is prolific, both grain and 
vegetables being grown without much trouble. Even the wild rye on being cul- 
tivated produces a large and plump berry. The barley sown on sod freshly 
turned up yielded last year at the rate of 23 bushels to one, and of 1,100 acres 
of barley, and 1,300 of wheat grown in the valley the present year, the yield 
has been equally good. Barley delivered on the farms sells at the rate of about 
$2 50 per bushel, and wheat at about the same, though the price of the latter 
will now probably depreciate, as a flour mill is about being erected in the valley. 
The quantity of grain raised here in 1S66 amounted to 33,000 bushels, the crop 
the present season being still larger. So green does the grass remain, and so 
genial is the climate in this valley, that good hay can be made in the month of 
December. The principal towns in the county are Unionville, the county seat, 
with a population of 400, Star city, 300, and Humboldt city, 100; besides which 
there are several mining hamlets numbering from 40 to 60 inhabitants. Some 
of these towns contain a number of fine buildings, which being erected at a 
time when labor and material were very expensive, have cost large suras. The 
most noteworthy improvement in the county is the Humboldt canal, designed to 
take water from the river and introduce it into or near the mines, and now in 
course of construction. This work is more than half finished, and will, when 
completed, be 80 miles long, 15 feet wide, and 3 feet deep, carrying water 
sufficient to drive at least 600 stamps. It will cost, construction of dam included, 
a little over $1,000 per mile. The route of this canal lies near many of the 
best mines in the county, and must, when these come to be developed, prove a 
very valuable and important property in a country having so little fuel for gen- 
erating steam power. Already this work has been rendered to some extent 
available for the propulsion of machinery. There are 12 quartz mills in the 
county, two of them provided with furnaces for smelting the ores, the whole 
number carrying 112 stamps and costing $400,000. Of these mills, nine are 
propelled by steam and three by water. The power for driving one of these 
mills recently constructed is obtained by damming up the outlet of Humboldt 
lake, by which means a sufficient force is generated for carrying a large number 
of stamps, and which it is intended shall be applied to that purpose should the 
ores of the Desert district, on which the present mill is to be run, prove remu- 
nerating. Many of the ores in this region arc so mixed with lead, antimony, copper, 
and other refractory agents as to require smelting, for which purpose several 
establishments have akeady been erected and are in operation. Two of these, 
the one situated at Etna, and the other at Oreana, on the Humboldt river, have, 
after many difficulties, succeeded to such an extent that the business is now remu- 
nerative, the shipments of bullion from them amounting to $3,000 per week. 



332 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The cruclc metal curned out by smelting consists of lead, silver, and antimony, 
•uhicli is then passed througli calcining and refining furnaces, whereby the silver 
is liberated from the base metals, coming out from -yV^V ^^ iWo ^^^^- Much of 
the crude metal is sent away, as it Avill not pay for refining here where the 
expenses are so high. The cost of smelting and refining ore at these establish- 
ments is 850 per ton, about double the cost of reduction here by ordinary mill 
process. The price of wood delivered at the mills varies from $6 to $14 per 
cord, depending on localities. The extraction of the ores costs about $10 per 
ton; hauling to mill from $3 to $S, according to distance. Some of the lodes 
in this region carry in the outcrop chiefly gold, wdiile others contain only silver 
or both of these metals mixed. Many of the smaller ledges are rich in free gold, 
and are worked as gold mines. This is especially the case in the Oro Fino. 
Sierra, and other districts in the mountains, designated as the Foist Range east. 
While some of the lodes in this county are large, well walled and symetrical, 
cai-rying all the features of regular fissure veins, others are narrow and broken 
and marked by irregular distributions of ore. An immense amount of work has 
been done in this part of the country, but there has been too little concentration 
of labor and much of it has been lost. Some of the tunnels have a length vary- 
ing from 500 to 2,000 feet, showing that a great deal of persistent work has 
been done. Yet only in a few cases have these excavations reached the lodes 
for which they were di'iven, so that not much practical benefit has been reaped 
from their construction. Besides these tunnels a great number of shafts have 
been sunk, being the more common method of prospecting claims here. These 
shafts vary in depth from a few feet to several hundred, some of them being 
carried down on and following the inclination of the vein. Most of the com- 
jDanies have in this manner been able to bring small lots of pay ore to the sur- 
face, while others, drifting upon thin lodes, have raised considerable quantities. 
The ore is usually of high grade, yielding by mill process from $40 to $200 per 
ton, and in some cases much more. That taken from the Sheba mine several 
years since, yielded from $200 to $500 per ton, the average being $140. With 
so large a number of veins, some of them carrying a good body of high grade 
ores and displaying evidence of permanency, tliis can hardly fail to become in 
the course of a few years a productive mining district. Prior to 1867 the annual 
shipments of bullion from Humboldt scarcely exceeded $200,000, whereas the 
amount will be nearly double that sum for the present year, with the prospect 
of a larger increase hereafter. Much prospecting as well as exploratory labor is 
now being done in different parts of the county, and generally with encouraging 
results. Capital is being invested more freely than for several years past, a 
number of new mills are being put up and others projected, while population 
that had for some time been falling off is again on the increase. In the north- 
western part of the county adjacent to a fertile and well-watered valley, is situ- 
ated the Pueblo district, with the Vicksburg district a short distance further 
south. There are good mines here, but the remoteness of the locality, and the 
hostile disposition of the Indians there have retarded their development as well 
as prevented the settlement of the country. The only mill ever erected in Pue- 
blo was burnt by the savages, who at the same time murdered two of the early 
settlers of the district and wounded others. With the adoption of more vigorous 
measures for the prevention of these outrages there is a probability that opera- 
tions, for several years nearly suspended, will be resumed at both Vicksburg 
and Pueblo. This valley, in its general features, resembles Surprise valley, 
already described, only that it is more extensive, though not so much settled. 
The Black Rock mines are situated in the western part of the county, some 40 
miles south of the Vicksbm'g district. The region about there is sterile in the 
extreme, being almost without any arable or meadow land, and very deficient in 
wood, grass, and water. But that the mines at this place are extensive and val- 
uable is now beyond dispute, though for a long time the peculiar appearance of 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 333 

tlie ore, in the absence of developments and -u-orking tests, rendere'd tliis a matter 
of considerable doubt. Recent crushings of ore, claimed to represent average 
masses in these mines, have tended to dispel doubts of their richness, if indeed 
they may not be said to have established for them a high value. The deposits 
here lie in huge masses rather than arranged in ore channels -vvalled in the ordi- 
nary way, and should they be found persistent in depth, must prove valuable, 
notwithstanding the remoteness of their locality and their unfavorable sur- 
roundino^s. 



SECTION IIII. 

CHURCHILL COUNTY. 

This county took its name from Fort Chm'chill, the first military- post ever 
estaljlished in this region, so called after an officer in the United States army. 
The entire western half, except near the waters of the Carson, is a sandy sage 
ban-en, the most of it an absolute desert, over which are scattered low ranges of 
black basaltic hills. Across the central and eastern portions nm in a north and 
south direction three high ranges of mountains, the Silver Hill the most westerly, 
Clan Alpine the centre, and the See-da-yah or Look-out chain on the east, each 
separated from the other by a broad and generally baiTcn valley. The county 
contains in proportion to its size but little good laud, the amount fit for hay- 
ciUting or grain-raising not being over 50,000 acres in an area of nearly 6,000 
square miles. This good land is nearly all found along the Carson river, or 
about the lake, slough and sink formed by its waters, the greater portion con- 
sisting of natural meadows, kept for cutting hay. On the mountains there is a 
scanty growth of bunch grass ; elsewhere almost none at all. The mountains also 
contain all the wood there is in the county, and nearly all the water except 
that supjilied by Carson river. About 2,500 tons of hay are cut, and 300 tons 
of grain, with as many vegetables, are raised annually. There are 400 horses 
and mules in the county, and COO cattle, one-half of them work oxen. The 
population numbers about 400, of whom 150 are residents of La Plata, the county 
seat. Besides its auriferous veins, Chm'chill contains a variety of minerals and 
metals, its western portion, owing to its great depression, being a vast receptacle 
of the various salts distilled from the drainage of more than half the State. The 
sink of the Carson may be considered the grand central basin of all northern and 
western Nevada; hence, about it we find deposited those alkaline, saline, and 
sulphurous substances with which most of the waters of this State are impreg- 
nated. From the waters of two small lakes situated in the great desert plain 
west of Carson sink, the carbonate of soda is so abundantly deposited that tons 
of the article could easily be collected quite pure. One of these, on drying up, 
which it does every summer, leaves a thick incrustation of this salt behind. 
Sulphur and the chloride of soda are also plentiful ; and two of the principal salt 
beds in the State are in the western part of this county. Hot springs occur 
at several places with many tumuli and other signs of extinct thermals. In the 
article on sinJcs and sloughs will be found some remarks on these hydrographical 
features of Churchill county. Some 10 or 12 mining districts have at different 
periods been laid out within the bounds of this county. Silver Hill, situated in 
the mountains of the same name, and organized in 1860, contains some large 
lodes heavily charged with auriferous and argentiferous galena, a number of which 
have been prospected. Considerable workhas been done in the district. Its 
inconvenient situation, however, joined with a scarcity of water, as well as a 
prospective scarcity of wood, has served to defeat all efforts for getting in mills 
or otherwise bringing the ledges to a productive state. Very little work has been 



334 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

iJone here for the past three years, and latterly there have been but few inhabi- 
tants in the district. Desert district is located in the northwestern comer of the 
county on what is known as the Forty-Mile desert. It is an arid dreary timber- 
less phiin, being without even a sufficiency of water for culinary uses. The 
lodes are small and blind, but rich in free gold, which occurs in a gangue, com- 
posed principally of red oxide of iron, easily reduced ; and if there were only the 
ordinary facilities for working these mines they might prove very remunerative. 
A five-stamp mill was built near them four years ago, and though operated for 
a time with success has since remained idle, the difficulty of getting wood and 
water supplies proving too great. A mill has been built lately at the outlet of 
Humboldt for working these ores, and though distant some 14 miles from the 
mines, the enterprise may turn out profitable, and as there is a considerable 
amount of propulsive power at that point, these lodes may yet be worked exten- 
sively. In the Mountain "Wall district, situate on the eastern slope of the Silver 
Hill range, a great many veins were located some five years ago. The surface 
indications being good, considerable work was afterwards done upon them. But 
the lodes were found to be faulty and uncertain, which led to the abandonment of 
most of them. Experts are of opinion that deeper exploration would reach perma- 
nent bodies of pay ore in these mines. Three years ago the Silver Wave Company 
completed at La Plata a SO-stamp mill, at a cost of $125,000. They had, how- 
ever, failed to prove their mine in advance, and it having failed to fm'nish sufficient 
pay ore, the mill after running for a short time was obliged to stop, and has been 
idle ever since. About the same time another companj'^, supplied as in the case 
above, with eastern funds, erected at Averill, a few miles from La Plata, a 20- 
stamp mill, at a cost of $150,000, and although this has not as yet accomplished 
much in the way of taking out bullion, they are developing their mines with a 
prosjDect of obtaining sufficient pay ore to start the mill and keep it running. 
It is by no means certain that similar persistence on the part of the Silver "Wave 
Company in opening their ledge would not be attended with good results. With 
the exception of the work doing by the Averill Company there are but few 
mining operations now in progress in the district. The history of operations in 
the Mountain Well district is so like that of those in Clan Alpine, 30 miles farther 
east, that it is unnecessary to go into details of the latter, where also, after but 
a superficial examination of the mines, a 10-stamp mill was two years ago put 
up to run a few days, and then remain idle. Yet there are unquestionably good 
mines in this district, besides plenty of wood and water to insure a cheap 
reduction of the ores. Of the several other districts in this county nothing is 
required to be said other than that many of them show encouraging signs of pay 
ore, though but little work has been done, and most of them are but poorly sup- 
plied with wood and water. 



SECTIOX XIV. 

ESMERALDA COUNTY. 

This county, named after the principal mining district in it, occupies the south- 
western portion of the State. In its general featui-es the country does not differ 
materially from most of that already described, except that the mountains con- 
tain a greater extent of pifion forests than those of Humboldt, Roop, or Churchill. 
The proportion of agricultural land, however, is scarcely greater than in those 
counties, if so great as in Humboldt. The mineral productions of Esmeralda 
are varied and abundant, the veins of gold, silver and copper being numerous, 
often large, and scattered over a vast region. The number of mining districts 
laid out in the county, first and last, is so large that it would require consider- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 335 

able space to repeat their names. The first discovery of silver lodes was made 
near Am'ora, in the summer of ISGO ; immediately after which a large population 
was drawn to that vicinity, and for several years mining operations were carried 
on with activity. Mills were erected, and a town built up which at one time 
contained 3,000 inhabitants. The prices of real estate advanced to extravagant 
figures, and mining properties were bought and sold at rates out of all propor- 
tion to their real value. In the mean time the titles to many of the leading 
mining claims became involved in litigation, whereby work was for the time 
being suspended, and capitalists deteiTcd from further investments. The mills, 
left without sufficient supplies of ore, ceased, first to pay dividends, then 
expense*, and finally closed up altogether. Suffering under these conjoint disas- 
ters, business fell off, the population left, stocks depreciated, and the Esmeralda 
mines were practically abandoned just at a time when, by proper caution and 
good management, they might have been rendered permanently remunerative. 
This occurred nearly foiu" years ago, and although matters have been slightly 
improving about Aurora, the great mining centre of the count}', for a year or 
more past, they are not yet restored to their former prosperous condition. The 
population of the county, which in the summer of 1S61 numbered about 3,000 
souls, had two years after increased to more than 4,000, At present it does not 
exceed 2,500. The principal part of the farming and hay lands are situated on 
the forks of Walker river. The following figures indicate something of the 
agricultural resources and products of this county : 500 horses and mules, 1,000 
head of neat cattle, 300 sheep, 400 swine, 3,000 tons of hay cut, and 600 tons 
grain, besides a large quantity of vegetables raised, annually. There are 15,000 
acres of land under fence, of which 5,000 are cultivated. The first quartz mill 
was erected at Aurora in 1861, since which time 15 others have been built in the 
county — 10 at that place, one in the Columbus district, two at Silver Peak, one 
at Pine Creek, and one at Eed Mountain. Besides these there are several in the 
Bodie and other districts adjacent, generally spoken of as being in Esmeralda, 
though really in California. These mills cany 200 stamps, all told, and will 
have cost, when that now in process of building at Silver Creek is completed, 
about $600,000. The most of those at Am-ora having been put up in 1862-63, 
when labor and material were high, cost considerably more than similar estab- 
lishments would at present. After the building 'of the first mill at that place 
the shipments of bullion from the county steadily increased for several years, 
until they reached nearly $1,000,000 for 1864. From this time they fell off 
lieavily for two years, but are now again on the increase, and there is reason to 
believe they will be steadily augmented for years to come. In addition to the 
troubles already mentioned, the millmen at Aurora experienced the further diffi- 
culty of having in some cases a rather refractory class of ores to deal with ; many 
of the ledges, also, which had prospected fau'ly in the croppings, failed to yield 
any large bodies of ore at greater depths. In some cases the exposed portion of 
the ledges here, and even the quartz boulders, of which there were many lying 
loose on the surface of the ground, were found to be heavily charged with the 
sulphm-et of silver. Much free gold was also found in several of the veins and 
occasionally in the earth adjacent, all of which leading to the belief that an 
abundance of pay ore could be easily and certainly obtained, a number of large 
and costly mills were erected in advance of mining developments, many of them 
to meet with subsequent embarrassment and often to remain idle for want of ore. 
This district also suffered severely from excessive speculation in mining stocks 
and properties, much of it brought about through very questionable agencies 
and modes of procedure, the odium of which, extending beyond the guilty instru- 
ments, attached to the mines themselves, thus discouraging the work of explora- 
tion and bringing them into disrepute. Within the past two years parties con- 
versant with the geology of the mineral veins in this district, and well posted as 
to previous operations, satisfied that the principal cause of failure was to be found 



336 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

in tlio superficial and insufiicient character of the explorations before can'ied on, 
have commenced a series of deep prospecting shafts on a number of the more 
promising ledges at Aurora, with a view to prosecuting them to determinate 
results. In several cases these operations have already been cro'^^'ned with com- 
plete or partial success, in one, at least, that of the Juniata, a vein well charged 
with pay ore having been developed at no great depth beneath the surface, a 
circumstance that, besides encouraging those engaged in similar works to perse- 
vere, will be likely to lead to the initiation of other enterprises directed to the 
accomplishment of the same end. Stimulated by these results, business has 
begun to improve in Aurora, and mining enteii^rise has everywhere received a 
wholesome impetus throughout the county. Some of these prospecting shafts 
are already down several hundred feet, and, being supplied with efficient hoisting 
works and directed by parties of experience and energy, are progressing favor- 
abl}^ The ore in this district is a sulphuret of silver, much of it carrying a per* 
centage of gold, either free or in combination with other metals and minerals. 
Taken as a mass, it is of high grade, yielding from one-third to one-half more 
bullion than that from the mines about Virginia City and Gold Hill. IMost of 
the ore raised at Aurora yields by mill process from $40 to $70 per ton, $50 
being perhaps a fair average ; while the cost of reduction is, or might be, less 
than at those places, wood being considerably cheaper. The only trouble seems 
to be the insutficiency of the ore suppl}^, and this, as above stated, may be con- 
sidered in a fair way of being overcome. Wood costs, delivered at the mills in 
Aurora, about $G per cord — a little less in most of the outside districts in the 
county — a price that cannot be materially advanced for some j^ears to come, 
owing to the abundance of piSon in the vicinity of the principal mines. In the 
proximity of the latter to good agricultural districts a further guarantee is had 
against exorbitant demands for grain and many other staples of subsistence. 
Tlie only towns in Esmeralda county of an}^ size are Aurora and Pine Grove, 
the former, the county seat, containing a population of about 1,500, and the latter 
of about 300. There are two saw-mills in the county capable of cutting about 
10,000 feet of lumber per day, and a large extent of toll-roads, some portions 
of which have been built at heavy expense. Lying in a northerly and easterly 
direction from Aurora, and distant from 10 to 30 miles, are several mining dis- 
tricts, all of which, having had their day of popularity, generally resting on 
misapprehension or a hasty inspection of their claims, are now nearly depopu- 
lated. Of these the Walker River, Lake, Cornell, Desert, East Esmeralda, 
Masonic, and Van Horn form the most notable examples. In some of these are 
promising veins, and in nearly all much work has been done, yet generally 
without such decisive results as to secure capital for the erection of mills or 
to warrant continued operations. In the Wilson district, situated in the Tol- 
lock mountains, 40 miles north of Aurora, were discovered in the summer of 
1866 a number of auriferous lodes, several of which, having since been par- 
tially developed, are likely to prove valuable. Here, within the present year, a 
considerable town — Pine Grove — has been built up, a number of arrastras driven 
by steam and a 10-stamp steam quartz mill have been erected, and another mill 
of larger size partially completed. The lodes are of fair average size, some of 
them largo, from 10 to 20 feet thick, and as a general thing show signs of per- 
manency. So far as opened they display regular walls and linings, with other 
evidences of tnie fissure veins. The exploratory works consist of shafts and 
tunnels, some of the latter nearly 1,000 feet long and several of the shafts over 
100 feet deep. From these excavations and from open cuts on the lodes a quan- 
tity of ore-bearing quartz has been extracted, a portion of which has been crushed 
with good results, the greater part being still retained awaiting better facilities 
for reduction. The gangue consists of an ochreous quartz, much of it easily 
pulverized from partial decomposition. The yield of the ores so far reduced has 
run from $30 to $90 per ton, worked by simple settling tub and blanket process. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 337 

The gold is generally diflfusecl throughout the veinstone and is extremely pure, 
being 917 fine and Avorth within a fraction of $19 per ounce. There is sufficient 
water near the mines for the use of several large steam mills, Walker river, 
eight miles distant, to which there is a good road witTi a descending grade, also 
supplying a large propulsive power. The mountains throughout the district are 
covered with forests of piilon, rendering the supply of fuel at cheap rates certain 
for some years. These mines are accessible over good wagon roads from Cali- 
fornia, and in the vicinity of a productive agricultural district, with fine timber 
lands but 40 miles distant, conditions that must tend greatly to facilitate theii 
development. In the Washington district, 20 miles south of Pine Grove, a 
number of argentiferous veins, carrying also copper, galena, and antimonj', were 
discovered in the early part of the present year, some of Avhich have since been 
prospected. A 10-stamp steam mill for the reduction of the ores has lately been put 
up in the district, where there are now about 150 men at work on the mines. The 
lodes are of good size, and carry ore which, from the limited tests made, it is 
thought will yield well by mill process. The situation of this district and the 
supply of wood and water are much the same as of the Wilson district. A good 
deal of ore is now out lying on the dumps awaiting means of reduction. Bunch 
grass is abundant throughout all this region, and as the climate is mild, but little 
snow falling in the winter except on the higher mountains, stock keep in good 
conc'.ition the year through without fodder. Hanging from 30 to 50 miles in a 
southeast direction from Aurora, and lying partfy in California, are the Hot 
Spring; the Blind Spring, and the JMoutgomery districts, discovered in 1864, 
since which time a considerable amount of ore has been extracted from some of 
the lodes, though but few well-plauned or persistent eft\/rts appear to have been 
made looking to a systematic development of the mines. Some of this ore has been 
sent to San Francisco for sale or reduction; a small quantity has been beneficiated 
at the mines, while a large amount remains on the dump piles undisposed of. A 
difiiculty with many of the lodes in these districts is the want of well-defined 
ore channels, the deposits occm'ring more in the shape of pockets or bonanzas 
than of regular strata, and hence deficient in continuity and persistence in depth. 
These bunches, however, are fi-equently large, and being easily broken out, can 
usually be mined with a remarkable prospect of profit. Most of the ore here ia 
an argentiferous galena, the large percentage of base and refractory metals it 
contains, of which manganese, antimony, and copper are the principal, render- 
ing smelting necessary, not more than 30 per cent, of the fire assay being saved 
by ordinary modes of reduction. Some, however, is rich in silver, yieldius", 
where thoroughly treated, from $300 to $500 per ton, selected lots turning out'li 
great deal more. Two small mills and a number of smelting furnaces have 
been put up, which, considering their limited capacity, have made a fair turn-out 
of bullion. These districts are moderately well supplied with wood, grass, and 
water, Montgomery, containing an abundance of piuon ; and the opinion may be 
expressed that with the aid of capital and skilled labor a thrifty mining business 
may yet be established. 

Columbus district, situate about 50 miles east of Aurora, and the same dis- 
tance southeast of Walker lake, is another of the more noted mining centres of 
Esmeralda county, at least so far as the possession of numerous lodes is con- 
cerned. The developments have not been extensive. Adjacent to this are 
several other districts, the most of which have been too little explored to justify 
notice, though all contain metalliferous veins of either the precious or useful 
metals and often of both. But little work, however, has been performed in any 
of them, and they are mostly deficient in Avood and water, which latter is also 
the case in the Columbus district. Here, however, a number of the veins have 
been partially prospected and working tests made of the ores, which have gen- 
erally yielded good retm-ns. The ledges are mostly in the hands of men of small 
means, while the remoteness of the district has prevented it from being visited 
22 



338 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

by strangers and perhaps from attracting- tlie attention it deserves. Certain it is 
tlie lodes are of fair dimensions, some of them very strong and marked by regu- 
lar walls and vv-ell-stocked ore-channels. The top ore consists largely of chlorides 
mixed -with sulphurets, often exhibiting a little free gold and native silver ; the 
accompanying metals are copper and lead. Various crushings of small lots, 
some of ■which it is claimed were not closely worked, have given proceeds ranging 
from $50 to $200 per ton, a good result considering the quantity of ore of this 
class that can easily be obtained; so that the prospect is not unfavorable. The 
country here is rugged and generally barren, consisting of high hills and mountains, 
interspersed with sandy plains and salt beds. The mountains are scarred with 
volcanic outflows and masses of basalt, intermingled with trachytic rock and dikes 
of trap, indicating a period of great upheavals and disturbance of the earth's 
crust. Along the flanks of the volcanic breaks portions of the original metamor- 
phic and stratified rocks are found traversed and seamed in many cases by the 
metallic bearing veins of gold, silver, copper, lead, and iron. The elevated por- 
tions of this district consist of a northeasterly extension of the White Mountain 
range, which a short distance to the southwest rises to a height of 10,000 feet, their 
tops and northern slopes being covered a good portion of the year with snow. 
A small town containing some 200 inhabitants has been settled near the principal 
mines, distant from which about eight miles are forests of piuon. There is but 
little wood in the immediate vicinity. A number of extensive salt deposits exist in 
the district, from which this article can be obtained quite pure and at small cost. 
One of these salt beds is estimated to cover an area of 30 square miles. Hay 
and other agricultural products can be procured from Fish Lake valley, a fertile 
farming district 20 miles t:'outheast of the mjnes, at which place several hundred 
tons of hay were cut, and considerable quantities of grain, and vegetables were 
raised the present year. While springs and streams are scarce, water can be found 
in many places by digging to a moderate depth, though it is often slightly brackish. 
A four-stamp steam mill has recently been put up in this district and is now ope- 
rating Avith satisfactory results. Another and larger mill is about being erected^ 
creating a probability that the business of mining, long dormant, will soon 
be prosecuted with energy. The Silver Peak district lies about 90 miles a little 
south of east from Auiora, the great salt bed of this region, covering over 40 
square miles, bordering it on the east, and the Red Mountain district on the west. 
The lodes in these districts, taken in connection with the vast improvements con- 
templated and in progress, a portion of them completed, render this a promising 
and important mining locality. The metalliferous lodes are numerous, and, as 
shown l>y working tests, Avell charged with the precious metals. Those in the Silver 
Peak district arc for tlie most part argentiferous, while the Red Mountain veins are 
chiefly gold-bearing. All the valuable lodes, so far as discovered in these two 
districts, are now owned by the Great Salt Basin Mining and Milling Company, 
who are proceeding to develop them Avith skill and energy. Tlie first discovery 
and location of mineral lodes in this region Avasmade at Red Mountain in 1SG3, 
Avhich having been folloAved up the next year by the erection there of a small 
three-stamp mill, the value of the auriferous veins at that place Avas soon estab- 
lished. The same year, (1864,) the Silver Peak mines Avere discovered, and 
here a 10-stamp mill was built in the fall of 1865, Avliich after running for a 
short time Avitli moderate success suspended for rej^airs, but never after resumed 
operations, the OAvners having disposed of it in common Avith their mining proper- 
ties to a company of eastern capitalists, the same Avho are noAV proceeding to 
Avork the mines on a liberal and extended scale. The present property of this 
company in these districts consists of about a hundred different lodes, some of 
them of good size and supposed value, a 10-stamp mill, intended to reduce ores 
Avithout roasting, as practiced at Cold Hill and Virginia, or for testing them and 
ascertaining the best methods for their reduction, a three-stamp mill, operating 
on the auriferous ores at Red Mountain, and a 1.000 acre tract of piuon forests 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 339 

lying adjficent thereto and embracing the best lands of this kind in the country, 
together Avith numerous improvements in the shape of shops, coiTals, stables, 
offices, storehouses, and buildings for workmen. On the margin of the Great 
Salt bed, adjacent to their principal mines, and a large spring of fresh water, a 
site has been secured for a mill and all attendant uses. On this spot a first-class 
mill is now being erected, most of the lumber, machinerj^, and other material 
being on the ground. This establishment, which it is intended shall be complete 
in all its appointments, will start with 20 stamps at first, to which others will 
probably be added, the intention being that 60 stamps shall be running there 
before nest summer. Among the improvements projected by this company is a 
system of railways, embracing a main trunk running to the centre of their prin- 
cipal claims, to be extended to the most distant in Red mountain and having 
Iwanches ramifying throughout both districts. This railway will terminate at 
their principal mill, and over it all their ores will be transported, dispensing with 
the necessity for team-hauling almost entirely, and thereby effecting a great 
^economy in current expenses. As justly remarked by Mr. J. E. Clayton, a Avell- 
known engineer, after a careful examination, the property of this company con- 
stitutes a favorable combination of available resources and local facilities. With 
their plans carried out they will probably be able to mine and reduce their ores 
at a ijrofit. In the quantity of average grade ores and easy transportation to 
their mills — the prime agents of cheap reduction, Avater, salt, and fuel close at 
hand, and a good agricultural district, Fish Lake valley, not far distant — are 
supplied some of the necessary requisites of a promising mining enterprise. 
Experience thus far had encourages the hope that these investments Avill prove 
I'emuuerative. 



SECTION XV. 

LINCOLN COUNTY. 

This county, named after the late President Lincoln, was erected from Nye 
county by act of the State legislature at its last session. Its boundaries are as 
folloAVS : beginning at the Red Bluff springs, about 1 5 miles east of the Eeville 
district, and running thence east to the State line, Avhicli it folloAVS to the south 
boundary of the line separating it from Arizona, along AA'hich it runs Avest until 
it reaches a point due south of Red Bluff, and thence north to the latter place. 
It occupies the extreme southeastern corner of the State, and does not differ 
materially in its physical features and natural productions from the adjacent por- 
tions of Nye county, elscAvhere described. The country is corrugated, like that 
farther north and west, by alternating ranges of mountains and valleys, the former 
lofty and covered Avith a sparse groAvth of bunch grass, Avith numerous small 
streams of Avater and patches of pinon and occasionally larger timber, Avhile the 
latter contains a number of fertile spots on Avhich hay can be cut from the 
natiA'e grasses and good crops of grain raised Avith the aid of irrigation. The 
county seat has for the present been fixed at Hico, the principal settlement. 
The county is noAV fully organized, having a full set of officials and consti- 
tuting the ninth judicial district of the State. The first discovery of silver- 
bearing lodes in this region Avas made about three years ago, since Avhich time 
a population of several hundred has been gathered there, though as yet no 
great amount of Avork has been done. Many of the mountain ranges are found 
to contain metalliferous veins of greater or less magnitude and value, but the 
most valuable so far as discovered, and the only ones yet at all developed, are 
situate in the Pahranagat district, in the eastern part of the county, in a high 



340 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

range known as Quartz mountain, its altitude being about 11,000 feet* The 
geographical position of this district is nearly in 37° 37'' north latitude, and 
112° west longitude. The principal mineral deposits are found in a belt about 
five miles long and two wide, stretching across the foot-hills and spurs of the 
mountain. This belt contains several distinct systems of lodes, all bearing 
the features of true fissure veins, having smooth and, in places, striated wallc 
with clay linings. They are of medium size, many of them cropping boldly 
and traceable for a good distance. The country rock is principally a meta- 
morphic limestone, the stratification greatly disturbed. The ores on the sur- 
face are associated with copper and argentiferous galena, and show by assay 
a percentage of silver varying from $50 to $2,500 per ton. The vein stone is 
quartz and calspar, carrying iron, zinc, and manganese, rendering reduction 
somewhat troublesome, and necessitating roasting as a general thing, or a resort 
to smelting where the sulphuret of lead prevails. After roasting the ores are 
tractable, rendering amalgamation easj'- and giving bullion from 800 to 900 fine, 
there being but little gold present. Some of the copper ore here assays as higli 
as 50 per cent, of metal, making it probable that it will yet be of economic 
value when better facilities for its transportation elsewhere are extended to this 
region. The veins are for the most part well situated for extraction of their 
contents, with available ores accessible from the start. The mountains adjacent 
to these mines are tolerably well stocked with pinon and juniper, but water is 
not abundant, in consequence of which all reduction works will probably, for 
the present at least, be located in Pahranagat valley, 12 miles east of the mines, 
where the mountain benches afford good mill sites, with plentj^ of water issuing 
from several springs. Thirty miles east of Pahranagat are found groves of 
timber suitable for making a fair article of lumber. Many of the ranges further 
west also contain similar trees, a species of white pine, with some fir. 

The climate of this region is milder than its geographical position and eleva- 
tion — over 7,000 feet — would indicate, the atmosphere being tempered by the 
warm cun'ent of air from the Gulf of California, flowing up the valley of the 
Colorado. Pahranagat valley, which is 35 miles long north and south, and 10 wide, 
contains about 20,000 acres of natural meadow land, or of soil that can be rendered 
arable by irrigation. Most of this will grow crops of grain and vegetables, that 
cultivated there the present year having yielded largely. Until the population 
becomes numerous, enough of hay, grain, and vegteables can be grown to meet 
local demands; afterwards supplies can be drawn from the Mormon settlements 
not far distant to the southeast, and from which grain is now brought and sold 
in the valley, at six cents per pound; flour at 10 cents, and beef at 15 cents. 
Hico is but 135 miles from Callville, at the so-called head of navigation on the 
Colorado river; that is, as the wagon road now runs, which can probably be 
reduced to 100 miles, rendering it possibe that goods and machinery may yet reach 
this region through that channel. There is now one five-stamp mill completed, 
with two others of larger capacity underway, in this district. The first not 
having facihties for roasting the ores, failed in the earlier efforts. Furnaces 
having been built, with which also the new mills are to be supplied, no further 
trouble in saving the metal is apprehended, and there is now a fair prospect that 
the more extended operations about to be initif.ted will prove remunerative to 
the pioneers of this distant region, 

*See section on eastern Nevada, Pahranagat district. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS 341 

SECTION XVI. 

THE COMSTOCK LODE. 

The mining interest in Storey county centres almost exclusively in the Corn- 
stock lode. Not that it is the only silver-bearing- lode in the district, hut 
the others which are worked yield so small a proportion of the bullion produced 
as almost to be overshadowed by their great neighbor. The Comstock lode 
may be called the "mother vein" of the district, but both to the east and the 
west of it lie veins which may become at no distant day valuable property. Of 
these the New Brunswick lode, on Avhich are located the St. John, Occidental, 
and other mines, is worthy of most attention, not only from its steady yield of 
bullion, but on account of its peculiar veinstone. The usaal gangue in the 
Comstock lode is quartz ; in the New Brunswick it is almost entirely carbonate 
of lime, an analysis of the rock showing the following composition : 

Gold OOIG ^5 0.2 

Silver 0250 10 98 

Peroxide of iron 1. 6370 

Peroxide of manganese ' . 2500 

Alumina . 7750 

Carbonate of lime 83.7240 

Sulphur 0050 

Chlorine Traces. 

Silica 13.2500 

Loss 3324 

100. 0000 16 00 



This analysis shows less than the usual amount of the precious metal, the mine 
at present yielding about 30 tons of ore daily, of an average value of about $25. 

In the southern part of Gold Hill are many small veins or deposits of decom- 
posed quartz and liine, yielding gold worth about 610 an ounce; these veins are 
worked chiefly by private individuals on a small scale, and furnish employment 
for several arrastras in Gold canon. 

But, as before stated, the mining interest centres chiefly in the Comstock lode. 

In the preliminary report a large amount of information was fm-nished rela- 
tive to the general features of this district and its mining resources. To avoid 
repetition the remarks in the present report will be confined mainly to the condi- 
tion of the lode at this time. In order to preserve continuity, however, it will be 
necessary to go over some of the ground already traversed. For concise descrip- 
tion the subject is divided into separate headings. 

Characiek of the Comstock Lode. — The Comstock lode runs along the 
eastern slope of the Washoe mountains, at the foot of Mount Davidson, its loftiest 
summit. Its outcrop is not by any means continuous, consisting of parallel belts 
of quartz, extending from east to west, in some places nearly 1,000 feet, which 
show themselves chiefly on the tops of the spurs, running down from the main 
ridge. The western of these quartz seams, being of a hard crystalline texture, 
form the most prominent outcrops, but experience has shown them to be of less 
value than the eastern bodies, Avhich from their different composition have been 
more easily disintegrated, and are often covered up by the debris from the higher 
and steeper portion of the mountain. 

Length or Lode. — The vein has been more or less thoroughly explored, 
(see table of mines in preliminary report, pages 72 and 73,) and its continuity 
established by underground workings for a length of about three and a half 
miles, though the productive portion forms but a small proportion of the whole, 
as barren spots of great extent intervene between the bonanzas or ore bodies. 

Strike of Lode. — Its " strike " or course, as shown by the exposure of the west 
wall, in numerous places, is nearly magnetic north and*^ south, (north 16° E, by 
true meridian.) 



342 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Ei^CLOSlXG EocKS. — But little if any doubt now remains that the Comstock 
is a true fissure vein. The enclosing rock on the east throughout its entire length 
as far as known is " propylite," a species of porphyry, varying much in its 
appearance at different points, as the crystallization is coarser or finer, and decom- 
position more or less advanced. The country rocks on the west vary considerably. 
On the slopes of Mount Davidson and Mount Butler it is sicnite ; north of this 
propylite occurs on both sides ; while in southern Gold Hill various metamorphic 
rocks occur on the western side. 

West Wall. — The west Avail of the lode is separated from the country rock' 
by a well defined clay selvage, and maintains a remarkaby uniform dip of about 
38° or 40° to the eastward at the surface, gradually increasing to about 45°, 
which it maintains to the lowest depths hitherto explored. The east wall near 
the surface has a false dip to the westward, gradually becoming vertical, and at 
a depth of 400 or 500 feet turns to the eastward, and continues down more or 
less parallel with the west wall. Owing to the flat dip of the lode this eastern or 
hanging Avail is less clearly marked than the Avestern or foot Avail, frequently 
dropping down on or near the foot Avail. When tliis is the case, another clay 
is usuall}' found to the eastAvard, and this structure will probably continue for 
an indefinite depth. Dev^elopments appear to shoAV it to be most fVecpient where 
the Avails of the lode approach each other rapidly. 

Width of Lode. — The jaAvs of the fissure at the surface, as before stated, are 
from 500 to 1,000 feet apart, gradually approaching each other in depth until the 
fissure is reduced to an average Avidth of 150 feet. This is not maintained, how- 
ever, Avith any regularity. The Avest Avail maintains a tolerably straight course, 
though conforming to some extent to the general direction of the mountain range ; 
but the eastern clays are full of sinuosities, Avhich produce in the vein a series of 
swells and nips. In Virginia these are very strongly marked, the nips usually 
occurring Avhere the lode intersects a ravine, and the swells corresponding to the 
prominent spurs of the mountain. One of the best illustrations of this structure 
occujs in the ground OAvned by the SaA\age, Hale and Norcross, and Chollar- 
Potosi Mining Companies. At the north line of the Savage mine the clays, 
including what is generally termed the vein, are probably about 100 feet apart. 
Going soutliAvard they diverge to a Avidth of 500 feet or upAA- ards, again contracting 
to the soutliAvard, rapidly at first, and then more gradually, nntil, at a point in 
the Chollar-Potosi mine 1,900 feet south of the starting point, the vein matter 
included betAveen the same clays is not more than 20 feet in thickness, and con- 
sists principally of an iiTegular clayey mass, caused by the union of several seams 
of clay, Avhich sIioav themselves in the vein to the nortliAvard. This great swell 
of the eastern clay nnites the clay bounding two subordinate SAvells, spanning 
at the same time Avliat Avas supposed to be a nip of the vein, and recent develop- 
ments render it probable that clays will yet be found to the east of apparent 
contractions of the lode, uniting the SAvells Avhich bound them to the north and 
south. The importance of thoroughl}- understanding this feature of the lode 
Avill become apparent Avhcn the difficulties of exploring the Comstock lode come 
under consideration. 

FiLLi^'G or THE Veix. — It must not be supposed, however, that the Avhole 
of this immense fissure is filled with valuable ore. Near the surface the aggre- 
gate thickness of the quartz seams is iu many places not more than five-sixths 
of the total Avidth of the lode. There are points where developments shoAV 
upwards of 150 feet of quartz, occurring betAveen the clays Avithout any inter- 
mixture of foreign matter, but Avdien this is the case the mineral is distributed 
through the whole mass too sparingly to make it valuable at the present time. 
Considering the vein as a Avhole, it is safe to say that at least two-thirds of it 
are filled Avith immense ''horses" or masses of country rock, chiefly detached 
from the hanging Avail, betAveen Avhich are found the belts of metalliferous 
quartz. These masses of country rock are frequently of such great length and 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 343 

thickness as to have foniKjcl one of the strongest arguments in favor of the tlieory 
that there was not merel}'^ one lode, bnt a l)clt of hides running- alo«g the foot of 
Mount Davidson. Tliey are usually bounded by clay selvages, uniting and 
dividing, both in the length of the lode and vertically, producing a complicated 
network of clay seams throughout its entire length, vrhich materially interferes 
with its drainage. Other portions of the lode are filled with a brecciated mass 
of porphyry quartz and cla_y, Avhich, from the rounded character of the enclosed 
pebbles, gives evidence of the intense dynamic action of the vein. 

Bonanzas, or Ore Bodies. — The ore bodies lie chiefly in the swells of the 
vein, usually forming in their upper portion, at or near the eastern clays, and, as 
their position is more vertical than the dip of the lode, they gradually di'op down 
on the west wall, leaving room to the eastward for the formation of new bodies. 
In Virginia their form is usually that of lenticular masses, with their longer axes 
in the direction of the lode, dipping at the same time to the southward. In 
Gold Hill the ore occm'S in sheets, lying more or less parallel to the cast wall, 
the change from one structure to the other occm-ring in the Chollar-Potosi mine. 
The bonanza in the Ophir-Mexican mines was about 200 feet in length and 
330 in depth, attaining a maximum thickness of about 45 feet, and tapering 
above and below to two or three feet. The Gould and Curry bonanza was 
nearly 650 feet long, over 500 feet in depth, and about one hundi'ed feet wide at 
its greatest expansion. The immense deposit of ore in the Savage and Hale & 
Norcross mines first showed at a depth of about 500 feet. It partakes of the 
crescent shape of the east clay, which it follows closely, varj-ing in '\\idth from 
] to 50 feet. It is known to extend to a depth of over 250 feet, and will 
probably continue as much lower. Its total length is upwards of 800 feet. In 
the Chollar mine a large lenticular mass of red ore, 200 feet long, 300 deep, and 
about 25 wide, has been developed. In the Potosi the ore lies in a sheet near 
the eastern clay. 

Ores. — The ores of the Comstock consist chiefly of vitreous silver ore, 
stephanite, native silver, and argentiferous galena, imbedded in a quartz gangue. 
Beside these, ruby silver, horn silver, and polybasite occur in small quantities ; 
also, native gold, iron and copper pyrites and zinc blend. These all usually 
occur in an amorphous condition, good crystallized specimens being remarkably 
rare. In the Kentuck mine (Gold Hill) carbonate of lime occurs in the gangue, 
and in the deep workings in Virginia sulphate of lime is an abundant mineral. 
The Fairview mine formerly produced fine crj'stals of the latter. 

Developments on the Comstock Lode. — The structure of the lode, as 
sho\vn by the underground works, has already been spoken of. The true dip of 
the lode was not understood for some time after its discovery. The false dip of 
the east wall a.t the surface induced a belief that the vein would pitch to the 
westward, and, consequently, the first working shafts were located accordingly. 
The majority of tiicse, at least in Virginia, reached the west wall at depths 
varying from 450 to GOO feet, and owing to the intensely hard nature of the 
western country rock had tj be abandoned as far as deeper explorations were 
concerned ; the cost of sinking and drifting back into the vein, the constant 
repair required by shafts located in tlie vein, and the necessity of more powerful 
machinery as great depth was attained, all tending to this result. The principal 
companies mining on the Comstock, in Virginia and North Gold Hill, have 
accordingly erected new hoisting works, about 1,000 feet east of the old shafts, 
on ground not likely to settle to any serious extent, and in these shafts the fol- 
lowing depths have been attained : 

Gould & Curry , 850 

Savage' 670 

Hale & Norcross 500 

Chollar Potosi 830 

Empire-Imperial (Gold Hill) 920 



344 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

These sliafts are, or will be, furnished witli macliinery of the finest description, 
capable of working to depths ranging from 1,200 to 2,000 feet. In Southern 
Gold Hill the original shaft of the Belcher Company has been earned down to 
a depth of 850 feet. 

While many of the originally discovered bonanzas have been worked out, 
depreciating the value of the mines where they occurred, as in the case of the 
Ophir and Gould & Curry, the comparatively recent discovery of the Savage- 
Norcross bonanza gives good foundation for believing that they will again become 
productive. This deposit was not found mitil the Hale & Norcross Company 
had been at work for nearly five years, and had attained a depth of 700 feet. 
Their location covered what was supposed to be a nip of the vein, and having 
exhausted all other means, as a last resource, the supposed east wall was pierced 
and a drift run to the eastward from the 700 feet level, with but little encourage- 
ment until, at 3G0 feet east of what had hitherto been considered the east wall, 
this magnificent discovery was made. The body of ore has been followed up . 
200 feet, and lying so far from the west wall, will, judging by analogy, continue 
down for a great depth. This discovery made valuable 800 feet of ground, 
which up to that time had produced nothing, tliough Ij'ing between the valuable 
deposits in the Gould & Curry and Chollar-Potosi mines. 

Nearly 1,500 feet of ground between the Gould & Curry works and the Ophir 
mine is to-day in the former condition of this ground, having been prospected 
only to a depth of about 350 feet, and found to contain nothing, or merely ores 
of too small a value to pay for extraction. Much other ground which has been 
examined, chiefly in the neighborhood of the Avest wall, should be prospected to 
the east, experience clearh/ showing that all valuable ore bodies originate on that 
side of the fissure. The bodies of quartz forming on the west wall are uniformly 
baiTen, or of very inferior quality. 

The development of the vein has been greatly retarded by various causes. 
Among these the most prominent have been the fear of causing litigation by 
prospecting to the eastward and making discoveries which were certain to be 
claimed by some of the innumerable locations made in early times, and the fact 
that almost all mining stocks are here owned only temporarily for speculative 
purposes. In the first respect a happier era is dawning. Repeated litigation 
has only tended to show conclusively that the many parallel outcrops of quartz, 
each of Avhich was located by a different company, unite in depth or disappear 
entirely, and the titles to the pi'incipal mines are now nearly free from further 
dispute. As far as the latter cause is concerned, the trouble will probably con- 
tinue for many years. To thoroughly understand any arbitrary section of ground 
a knowledge of the adjoining projierty is almost indispensable. This is frequently 
attainable only to a limited extent. It too often happens that the true condition 
an(l structure of a mine is concealed, lest the information should affect the schemes 
of those who are operating in its stocks. A combination of mining superin- 
tendents and the establishment of a general office, where maps of the various 
mines could be consulted by those desiring information, Avould prove prejudicial 
to mining-stock speculators, but would tend greatly to check the useless expen- 
diture of money, and materially increase the legitimate profits of our mining 
enterprises, by enabling superintendents to lay out theu* work with judgment and 
greater certainty than is at present the case. 

Mode of mining on the Comstock. — Shafts. — Mining on the Comstock 
is carried on almost exclusively through perpendicular shafts, explorations having 
penetrated below the deepest adits, which are now nsed almost exclusively as 
drains, to avoid the necessity of hoisting the water to the surface. The original 
shafts were much less substantial than those now in use, being merely lined with 
planks about three inches thick, the compartments being two or three in number 
and about four and a half feet square. Tlie jirincipal shafts now in use are fine 
specimens of mining engineering. The r^^vtu shaft of the Savage Company 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 345 

Las fonr compartments, three of tlicm, for lioisting-, 'being five feet sqnare, and 
the fourth, which is occupied l)y the hoisting- machiner\^, iive feet by six. The 
Bonner shaft of the Gould & Curry Company and the Chollar-Potosi and 
Empire-Imperial shafts are similar in their character, while the Hale & Norcross 
shaft, being intended for the exploration of much less ground, has only three 
compartments. The mode of construction in all these shafts is similar, cribs of 
12-inch timbers being inserted every five feet, supported by vertical posts of the 
same size. This cribbing is covered on the outside by lagging of three or four- 
inch planks. Wooden guides are then inserted down each side of the compart- 
ments for the purpose of retaining the platform cages, used for ascent from and 
descent into the mine, in their places. For some years iron guides were much in 
nse, but have now been superseded almost entirely by wood, as less liable to 
accident. The cost of sinking these shafts varies, of course, with the nature of 
the ground encountered. The Bonner shaft was put downr to the depth of 525^ 
feet, at an average cost of 6100 78 per foot, including such a propoilion of the 
total cost of pumping and hoisting as was chargeable to this account. The fol- 
lowing table shows the amount expended for each department of the work. It 
is made up for a depth of 692.} feet, and shows that the last 67 feet of the shaft 
cost considerably more in proportion than the upper portioijs, as it raised the 
average cost per foot to $109 36. ) 

Cost of sinking the Bonner shaft. 

Paid for excavation $22,324 50 

Lumber 5, 460 05 

Timber 9,670 67 

Framings timbe s 3, 51 8 00 

Placing timbers 1, 570 50 

Carmeu 3,530 00 

Lovveriug pumps, &c., &c 4,683 75 

Picks aud drills 2,041 50 

Powder and fuze 291 00 

Candles 1,054 30 

Other materials 3, 777 13 

Cost of running machinery, keeping pumps in order, pitmen, &c 19, 817 00 

75, 738 40 



Tunnels and Deifts. — From these shafts drifts are run to the vein, gener- 
ally about 100 feet apart vertically ; but it seldom happens that the levels in 
any one mine correspond with those in the mines adjoining. This arises from 
the mines being worked entirely independent of each other. But few of these 
tunnels will stand without protection. The main w^orking drifts are usually 
timbered every five feet, the timbers varying from eight to twelve inches square, 
according to tlie nature of the groimd to be sustained. In many places, even 
12-inch timbers cannot resist the immense pressure brought upon them by the 
slacking and expansion of the material through which the drifts are run, imme- 
diately on its exposure to the atmosphere. It is not uncommon to see timbers 
completely crashed, notwithstanding the utmost precautions, in six months after 
they have been placed in the mine. Main working drifts, after timbering, are 
usually about six feet high in the clear, three and a half to four feet wide at the 
top, and somewhat more in the bottom. Temporary prospecting drifts are much 
smaller in size, and generally left untimbered, if practicable, till they develop 
something of value. In each drift is laid a wooden track shod with iron, on 
which the material extracted from the mine is run out to the shaft in dumping 
cars, holding from 1,000 to 1,500 pounds. To avoid repeated handling of the 
ore or waste, the same cars are hoisted on the cage to the surface, and their con- 
tents there distributed to the proper places. The following tables will give 
some idea of the cost of this branch of minincc : 



346 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



o^ 






S 

C3 






•Si 



a 



•jooj xedw\ lad ^soo 




CO 


::::::::: n 


•spjox 


$1, 109 94 

848 44 

897 07 

1,673 50 

2, 513 22 

3,218 50 

2, 593 90 

2, 198 25 

745 84 


CO 


•soxoq jty 


$12 72 
9 54 
9 80 
19 SO 
62 80 
82 00 
65 00 
52 80 
16 00 


CO 


•saipnuo 


$27 00 

21 60 
24 30 
28 35 
89 70 

118 39 
91 03 
72 93 

22 44 


1-5 


•aznj pnu .lapMO^ 


10 00000t~t^ 

OOaOOC!"3'OQOCO 

OOLOCO— '--'TfOCO— 1 
— rH n-< C) CO -3- CO TT CI 


o 

'ij' 

Cl 


•g[iup patj s-s[S]d 


OOOIOOOOOO 
OOOOJ-OOOOO 
C!C)QOO(^raODO>m 

c( r-i CI T o oo m iQ 1-1 


s 

o 


•SAV3.iaS 

pnc uo.ii ^atJJX 


•ea- 


CO 
00 

ct 


'jaqraii Sap 
-Bid puB Sniuit;.!^ 


$42 00 

31 50 

32 90 
63 00 

110 50 
143 50 
113 75 
92 50 
28 00 


to 


•Snnids 


$50 40 
37 80 
39 43 
75 50 
122 46 
110 70 
92 53 
70 21) 
24 00 


■-0 


•jaqranq 


19 12 

6 84 

7 14 

13 68 
18 84 
24 60 
18 20 

14 78 
4 80 


o 

o 

2 


•jaqraix 


$146 83 
98 72 
118 25 
220 24 
308 04 
402 21 
297 55 
241 72 
74 55 


O 

o 

o 

o" 
l-l 


-BDXa JO ^SOO IB}0X 


ocooooooo 
coooooooo 

torn— 'j^coioco-^ci 

t^incOf^OrHt>.iOiO 


•jooj JDd pred 03!.IjI 


$13 00 
13 00 
13 00 
13 00 
10 64 
10 54 

10 67 

11 47 
13 00 






%99} JO -OK 


o-^t^ot~rt<?or>o 

CO ^ ■•9' O O p CJ CO ^ 


or 

c- 





Or— iOOCIO-^OClJ^OO 

-J t^ -^ o t~ c) i- c> o c) m" 

r^ -rt* CI IO CO i^ CO CO — -r- — CO 

jy as cocoot-'Ti«t^'^rrcoo 

rH-r-Tr-rcfcfr-rCO-CO'CO"— " 



ocitooooooooo 

COl^OOCO^wOOi-iO 

CO C! O C) ■* 00 l.O CI O « O 
•aa-r^ Mdi-lC-lCOCOlOr^O 



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LO CO CO CO CO to ^ CM O O CI CI 
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— CI CI CI CI £- to Ml 1^ O If CI 



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-2^— ICICir-lCOr-li-'COCOtO 



000 10 0«OOCOOO 

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O »0 CS >-0 -^ 00 f — 1 CI lO ^ i^ 

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LOCI— iO00«5(MlO«>f~O— ■ 

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r^-^ooro-^oaoOLOocoo 

•Cfe-rH 1— Cli-ICOr-ICI'^J'irjt- 



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OOOOIOIOOOOCIOOT 

— ' 01 15 to LO r~ o to 00 f- lo c» 

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«»■ 7-1 rH Ci >0 to —1 LO i~ ^ 



^CO-J CI too CI OCOCD—' CI 
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r-T Olr^r-^ClClT-l 



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iH i-H rH rH d Cl Cl 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 347 

Stoping is universally conducted by opening a level below tlie body of ore 
to be extracted, and working upward on tlio vein. On tlie Comstocli, tlie open- 
ings made in mining the ore are so large that a complicated system of timbering 
is requisite to replace the material extracted. A rectangular system of timbers 
is usually adopted, the posts being about seven feet in length, 12 inches square, 
and placed about five feet apart from centre to centre. These are retained in 
their places by ''caps" and •'sills," and farther to secure the mine each floor, as 
far as practicable, is filled up Avith waste material as soon as it is worked out. 
In early days too little attention was paid to tliis last precaution, resulting in 
extensive *' caves" or giving way of the ground from the superincumbent pressure. 
If a body of ore is entirely extracted the result is not serious ; but should any 
remain untouched, the cost and difficulty of securing it after a "cave" has occur- 
red in its vicinity is usually greatly increased from the broken and shattered 
condition of the ground. The quantity of timber used in these stopes is immense, 
as will be seen by the details of the annual consumption on a future page. Any 
means which would diminish its price would be a great gain to the 'entire coni- 
nnniity. 

Prospectixg for new ore bodies forms a serious item in the cost of mining on 
the Comstock. When the great and irregular width of the vein, the irregular 
distribution of the ore bodies, the uncertainty of their occurrence, and our imper- 
fect knowledge of the structure of the vein are taken into consideration, the diffi- 
culty of laying out prospecting works to the best advantage becomes apparent. 
Immense sums of money are spent annually in this kind of work, which must be 
taken entirely from the pockets of the shareholders when a mine is unproductive. 
If only moderately productive the entire revenue may be consumed in looking 
for more valuable bodies of ore ; at the same time, the certainty of being richly 
rewarded for years of waiting if they are found, induces the continuation of work 
on mines which have not yielded a dollar for years. They are known on the 
main fissin-e of the Comstock to be surrounded by good property, and may become 
valuable at any moment. The Hale and Norcross mine is a good illustration. 
Tlie following extract is taken from the annual report of the president of the 
company, for 18G6 : 

Heretofore the entire expense of opening tliemine, erecting machinery, A-c, had to be borne 
from money collected by assessments, imtil they aggregated the siim of $350,000, equal to 
$875 per foot. For the year just ended the trustees have been enabled to return to the stock- 
holders, in dividends, the sum of $490,000, equal to $1,225 per foot, or, in one year to repay 
the assessments collected in five years, with the handsome sum of $350 per foot in addition, 
besides carrying over the large surplus in cash of $133,283 99, equal to a further sum of 
$333 -22 per foot, making altogether the handsome profit, in one year, of $1,558 22 per foot, 
or 155 per cent, on the par value of the stock. 

In this connection the advantages of a community of knowledge and interest 
among the mining superintendents would be of immense value, the experience 
of all becoming available by each, thus reducing the cost of exj^lorations by 
showing in Avhat portion of the different mines deposits of ore are most likely to 
be found, and thus directing attention more particularly to them. Every dollar 
spent on an unproductive mine is so much taken out of the aggregate net profits 
of the mining interest, and every dollar which can be saved would bo equal to 
the same amount distributed in dividends. But because a mine on the Comstock 
is unproductive to-day, is no reason Avhj^ it should be abandoned. The only 
point to be considered is how it may be developed in the most economical manner, 
and the plan suggested above appears to afford a solution of the difficulty. The 
inefficient character of the results obtained by many companies working on the 
Comstock lode, when compared with the money expended, is well known to per- 
sons familiar with our mines, and can only be remedied by some such organiza- 
tion. 



348 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Numhcr of engines on the lode. 





Hoisting. 


Pumping. 


Hoisting and 
pumping. 


Name of mine. 


1 


"5 g 
.5 " 


3 


^ 2 
S '^ 

H 


o 
.a 

a 

3 


o 

si 

E 


Allen 










1 


30 




1 

2 


GO 
30 


1 
1 


200 
200 










Sides 


1 


50 


Gould & Curry 


1 
3 
1 

1 

\\ 

1 


GO 
GO 
GO 
GO 


1 


150 












1 
1 


250 
150 




















40 

CO ) 
20 \ 
GO 












1 

1 


CO 
CO 














1 
1 

1 
O 


CO 












GO 












30 












33 




1 


















1 

o 

i 
1 


10 












20 












35 
















1 


CO? 
GO 










1 


100? 








1 


CO 




1 

1 


•10 
CO 


1 
1 


40 
40 




Belcher 








2 


30 




1 


40 


1 


60 






1 


















Total 


23 




11 




16 















* Donkey engine. 

These engines Avere almost universally, in earl}^ times, attached to friction 
hoisting gear, but the increase of depth attained has almost banished this 
mode of operation, the great weight of the rope and car rendering it unsafe. Flat 
Vvire ropes have almost entirely superseded the hemp ropes originally employed. 
For hoisting ore cages are employed in all instances, buckets being used only 
for sinking in the shafts. These cages are fitted Avith a variety of appliances to 
insure safety in case of accident to the ropes or hoisting machineiy. 

PuMrs. — The largest pumps in use are 14 inches in diameter; the greater 
number, however, range from 10 to 12 inches. The amount of water to contend 
v/ith varies greatly in different mines, being, as a Avhole, more abundant in the 
north end of the lode. The 0])hir Mexican pump throws about 300 gallons per 
minute, and must be run steadily to keep the mine free of water. The Bullion 
mine, about one mile to the southward, is comparatively dry, and in most cases 
a few hours' pumping daily is sufficient to rid it of Avater. Small pumping 
machinery would generally be sufficient vv'as there not always a risk of tapping 
bodies of water dammed up by the clay seams in the vein already spoken of. 
These reservoirs generally yield a large volume Avhen first struck, but rapidly 
diminish to a small stream. The machinery must be adequate, however, to the 
duty imposed upon it at such times, otherwise serious detention and damage may 
be the result. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUJTTAINS. 849 

Amount of Ore raised erom: the Mines. — The amount of ore raised from 
the mines on tlie Oomstock lode may 1)0 ])ut down at the present time at about 
lj500 tons daily, and the total amount raised since the commencement of opera- 
tions at about 2^000,000 tons. The following table, compiled by S. H. Marlette, 
the surveyor general of Nevada, from returns made to the assessor, for the year 
1866, shows the number of tons produced quarterly by the several mines which 
yielded more than $20 per ton. Some mines, owning mills of their own, work 
rock yielding as low as 815 per ton, but no' record of this becomes public, and 
is very difficult to obtain, chiefly- owing to disinclination on the part of owners of 
unincorporated mines to make their operations public. The table also shows the 
yield of the ore per ton. 

'riELD OF Ore per Ton. — From information furnished by the superintendents 
of the following mines, the yield per ton appears to be — 

Savage mine — 30,250 tons produced in the last six months of 1866, yielded 
an average of $42 93 per ton. 

Hale and Norcross mine — 16,836 tons produced in the same time, yielded an 
average of $50 33 per ton. 

Gould and Curry mine — 62,425 tons produced in 1866, yielded an average of 
$28 64 per ton. 

The following table shows the number of tons of ore, worth more than $20 
per ton, produced quarterly by mines on the Corastock lode, names of the mines, 
and yield of some of the ores : 



350 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 





o 

ci 
o 


_; 1 

o 


^3 
'^ 1 


:;;:::;;:; I ;::' :-H. :;;;;: ;*f ::: i*^ ; ; : ; ; : ; : ; 
. ; : 5j . c^ . ; cr. t- c-5 00 . ; i- ; ; ; : 

,,.,;; 1 ; ! oi . o . , , , o =2 o> . c; . . . -a- 


o 


.11 








' ! ' ■ 1 ; ' ■ ! '.^'^ ,' 1 ! 1 I 






■ c» 


;;:;;;;;;::;:;;;;:;;:::::; 1 :;;!;:;: 1 '."'■. 1 :: : 


1 


o a 




10 

T-> 


;::: i :::;::;•;:;:;:;:::::;:: ;^ :•: ;::;":::: : 


3 

o 


^ 


;:::;;:::::::;:::;:::::::;:::£?:;;;:; :?5 :::: : 




C3 
& 

a 
8 

o 


& . 
o a 
o o 


I I ; ; 1 






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'.'.'.'. \c^ 






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..,.,'• 








s 


..... CO 






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f 


u 


o-m iim.i'.r^Ci -j-.o 

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a 
o 


. -*M -V* * * ' * ■ 

1 • 0> . <7l 02 . ■ • .lOtOf- .CO 

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o 


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. r-< . .00 

. ..4» Wci. 'Hs. e*o .«^♦.H^ 

.} iioco . . . .o> .05f^ .oincoooinTt.Ti.00 .oi.o-a< 

■ CiCiGuLO . . . .CO .--CO .c*w€^c:or-iooo .t^i^cri . . . . . 

.^oooco ■ . 1 .CO .00 .Ti.^mic-a.cooo'O' .iciOrH . . ■ ■ . 

I ■woo'ri.-Lo" . . . . co" I na '• ctr-Hnn^rf n '• aSir^^ '.'.•>'. 

.OCOC^CO....(7i.rH . r-t .t^rHCO 












3 
& 

o 
fa 


a 
o 


I . . . -^ . 
.... . 






.Ot~C»— 1 . . . .0 .0(^ t^TK . . 't-OlO . . . . . 

. CO rH . . . .CO .1000 00 00 . • . O 00 r^ ..... 


.... CO . 

• '• < -fji- \ 






.foococ? . . . -ai .-JO . . . • — o> . . .t^coco 

• SI •Vina • • • -Gt • atot • • ; ; -at at • • ■ c^ <m co ; ; | ; ; 


a 
o 










\ \ \ '.^ ', 
\ \ \ \^r \ 






icooor-'^; I ; ;co icoo ; ; i i Iooti. ; : iiocor- ; i i ; ; 

. CO CO lo 'O o . C) 00 , . . . TT CO : . 00 ira CO , , , , 

T30^.-i 00 .O— 1 . . . .<X>tr- , .OCOi^ 






a 

a 
o 


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: ; : .^,S 












.O^COOS . . . .LO "COlO .CO . .LOCNCO • . .COlOrt- 

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.lOCOOi*.^ . . . .CO ..-^O .O . .CO(M-H . . .KOt^CO 








1 1 1 looco 
' ; ' 'r2S 












. O t^ -^ r^ . . . .CO . 00 O .CO . .OOOC5 . » . en O CO 

. o 35 r 1 . . . . — ' . CO CO . lo . . en o i^ . . . lo o lo . . . . . 








1 incri'£~'"i>" ;;;;'"-" ;'»""<?('" ; rn" • j co-cfrH" '• '• I to" coco" ■ ; • ; ; 








U 
O 

1 

a 
m 


a' 
o 


. . . .000 
. • . • CJ 

'• '• '• I 00 












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■COOOCOOO . . . .»0 • .r-H . . 'Cn .QOOC^^i .t>.L'7Cl 






.t^Loooco • • • .— (. .—1 . . .o .co^r-'Co .oo— *o 


. . . .-4^' 








a 
o 


1 I ; i?'''p 

III!"* 












, «t* I ! I I . . It. . "^ .H-» .-<*;,;, , 

t^Otcoo V: o , CO ooi^rco ,— .coco , ; 

, CTl •*5. C: UO 1 ; I £^ , .CO ; I . LO . CO rf. LO CJ . 00 CJ CO 

; oo o r~ Lo ; ; ; ; r-i : : m , . .0 .•■ococc'-i . <o co ; . , . . 
; -"Tco'o'o" I ; I ; tt" ; ; ; I ;co~ ',cir^ ct ;t-"ffioo ; | ; ; ; 


S 


a' 
o 




I 1 I Ici I 

. • « . ^^ ■ 
. 1 ; ;<«• ; 






.-(.r:t~co . . . .n.coor~ioococ! .colo .f- ..-i(3>co .0 . . . 

• CO C< rH CO . . . . LO CJ CO Ci 10 r-. CO . CO Ci . Ci ■ Tf •<}. O . O . . . 

Ictoco'J. I I I '• mion-vin^o^ I-<oo .'cj '■ o>ci^ I-*. ! ! I 
. CO o (M <?} 1 . . -nt CI Ci Qi oi oi Ci Qt 'ctct •a ■ « ^ ^j. . cj . . . 


0= 

a 

o 


1 ; 1 Ico 1 

... .(31 . 






. . . . M^ -<^ -^ . . . . .4?. . * . 

"t^TttoOTt* . . . .t>.OCOt^TT.i^lOO .t^Cl .1^? .IfOCOCO .c* . . . 

.i^OLOTf . . . .cii^ffi-JCJco — CT .m-H .CO .rr^co .co . . . 


::::-'"; 






I CO'"C-''ci"oo'" '. '• '■ I CO-r^-Tf rH-f-T rt" I r-T '• r^ I O"r-"oo" '• r-T '• '• '• 




'c 
c 


) 


I I « ! ! I 
. "O . , 
, . a , , . 

-j a S g.b.2 


1 1 ffj 

• ' 6 
■ S!zi 

_; a .-, 

a;= a 

a a 


• 0. 


Best & Belcher 

Gould & Curry 

Savage 

Halo & Norcross 

Chollar-Potosi 

Excliequer 

Alpha 

Apple & Bates 

Imperial 

Bacon 

Eclipse 

Trench 

Plato 

Piuto 

J. D. Winters &Co.. 
Consolidated 21 feet.. 
Gold Hill Q.M.&M. Co 
Challenge 

Burke, Hamilton & Co 

Yellow Jacket 

Kentuck 

Belcher 

Overman (?) 

North American (?)... 
Baltimore American (? 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 351 

Cost of Minixg tee Tox. — The following items are from official sonrces : 

Savage mine — average eost per ton of tJie last six montlis 0/I866. 

OiScials $0 30 

Extracting ore 3 00 

Prospecting 05 

Accessory work 1 64 

Improvements 2 04 

Incidental expenses , 1 10 

Total cost per ton 8 82 

Goidd and Curry mine — average costlier ton for ihe 12 months ending November 

30, 1866. 

Officials .• $0 21 

Prospecting and dead work 2 II 

Extracting 3 10 

Accessory 1 82 

Improvements 62 

Total cost per ton 7 86 

Hale and Noreross mine — average cost per ton for the 12 months ending March 

20, 1867. 

Managerial , $0 31.7 

Hoisting 2 38.7 

Mining 4 79 

Improvements 65. 9 

Incidentals 92. 9 

Total cost per ton 9 08,2 

These results sliow a marked improvement on previous years, and enable lower 
grade ores to be worked more profitably than was formerly the case. Some portioix 
of the diminution in cost is due to the lower price of material, but by far the 
greater part to more efiicient management and systematization of labor. 



352 



KESOUECES OF STATES AND TEEEITORIES 

Tabular list of mills crusldng ore froyn mines 



Names, 



STOREY COUNTY. 

Atlas 

Atwood's 

Bay State 

Bowers' , 

Central 

Crown Point (!) 

Comet (1) 

Douglas (1) 

Eclipse 

Empire State 

Empire No. 1 (1) 

Empire No. 2(1) 

Gold Hill 

Gould & Curry 

Hoosier State 

Imperial 

Land's 

Mariposa 

Marysville (1) 

Ogden 

Pacific 

Petalumad) 

Piute 

Rliode Island 

lligby's(l) 

T{oger.s's (1) 

Sapphire 

Simcooc 

Stevenson's (1) 

Succor (1) 

Summit 

Union 

Winfield 

Total 33 



LYON COUNTY. 



Bacon 

Birdsall & Carpenter 

Cole &Co 

Confidence 

Dayton No. I 

Dayton No. 2 (1) 

Daucy 

Eaglo 

Eastern Slope 

Eureka 

Excelsior 

Tranklin 

Gold Canon Reduc- 
tion Works. 

Golden Eagle 

Illinois 



Imperial (Rock Pt) 

Island 

Monitor 

Ophir (New) 

Phoenix No. i (1) . . 

Pioneer (1) , 

Sacramento (1) 

San Francisco 

Swansea 



Owners. 



Haggin & Tevis - . 

George Atwood 

Bay State Mill Co. 

L. S. Bowers 



J. B. Dickenson 

Crown Point G. & S. M. Co. 
New York & Nevada M. Co. 

C. S.Wheeler 

Eclipse M. & M. Co 

Wm. Sharon, Agent 

W. S. Hobart 

Empire M. & 51. Co 

Gold Hill Q. M. & M. Co. .. 

Gould &. Curry M. Co 

Clark & Hearst. 

Imperial S. M. Co 

Charles Land 

J. V. McCnrdy 

O'Neale, Rule & Glasier ... 

O. S. Carvili 

Sharon & Co 

Greely Bros 

M. Livingston 

Crown Point G. & S. M. Co. 

Rigby &Co 

Rogers S. M. Co 

W.^S. Hobart 

A. Bassett & Co.. 

C. C. Stevenson 

O'Neale, Rule & Co 

Mason, Carville &. Wright.. 
Wm.Kidd 

L. A. Booth 



Lowe & Fair 

Birdsall & Carpenter. .. 

Cole & Co 

Confidence M. Co 

Winters, Kiistell & Co . 

do do .... 

Dancy M. & M. Co 



Stevenson, Winters & Co. . 
Wheeler, Hurd & Dnnker. 

John Briggs 

Wm. Sharon, agent 

Wm. Sharon, agent 



O'Neale, Rule & Co. 

Wm. Sharon, agent. 



Imperial M. Co 

O'Neale, Rule &Co... 

Hirschraau & Co 

Ophir S. M. Co 

Hentsch and Berton 

Sheldon & Hickok 

Hunt, Woodruff & Co. 

Charles Schad 

AV. Sharon, agent 



Lower Gold Hill 

Flowery (Six Mile Creek) . 
American Flat 



Crown Point Ravine, (G.H.). 

Virginia 

Crown Point Ravine, (G. H.). 

Gold Hill 

Lower Gold Hill 

Gold Hill 

Seven Mile Cailon 

Virginia 

Lower Gold Hill 

Gold Hill 



Seven Mile Canon 

Virginia — 

Lower Gold HUl.. 
Seven Mile Canon. 

do 

Lower Gold K.U. . 

Virginia 

Lower Gold HjI!.. 

do 

do , 

Goldllill 

American Flat 

Seven Mile Canon 
Lower Gold Hill - . 
Seven Mile Canon 

Gold Hill 

Lower Gold HiU.. 

Virginia 

Gold Hill 



Seven Mile Canon . 



Silver City 

Dayton 

Johntown 

Silver City 

Dayton 

do 

3 miles from Dayton 

SilverCity 

Below Silver City 

Carson River, near Dayton. 

Johntown 

Carson River, near Dayton. 
SilverCity 



Carson River, near Dayton. 
do do 



.do. 



.do. 



do do 

Gold Canon, near Dayton .. 

Carson River 

Below Silver City 

Silver City 

Johntown 

Carson River, near Dayton. 
Johntown 



1862 

'ieG2' 



i8(;o 

ISCO 



1862 
1860 



1863 
1862 



1862 
1861 



(1) 
ISGl 



1863 
1865 
1864 
1861 
1861 
1864 
1863 
1864 
1862 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1861 

1861 

1864 

1861 

1862 
18(i5 
1864 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1862 



$35, 000 
35, OCO 
4U, 000 

ICO, 000 

7."., 000 
40, 000 
40, 600 
40, 000 
50, 000 
35, 000 
75, 000 
80, 000 

30, oeo 

380, coo 
40, 000 
75, 000 
60, 000 
20, 000 
50, COO 
.50, COO 
75, 000 
30, COO 
80, 000 

100,000 
25, 000 
!i.'>, COO 
60, 000 
35, 000 
15, COO 
50, OCO 
50, 000 
25, 000 

80, 000 



S85, COO 
(1)110,000 
10, 000 
35, 000 
50, 000 
40, 000 
70, 000 



60, OCO 
100,000 
25, 000 
50, 000 
40, 000 



250, 000 

40, 000 
6,000 
75, 000 
40, 000 
40, 000 
50, COO 
40, 000 
60, COO 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
on the Comstock lode during tlic year 1S86. 



353 





%■ 
o 
p. 

o 
u 
o 

w 


STAMPS. 


WHEELS. 


WATER 


WOOD. 


Motive power. 


e 

B 
'A 


m 

O 

1 


.a 
a 

ft 
o 




S 

u 

ft 

ft 
o 

« 


Kind. 


a 

a 

5 


1 
(in 


.2 

a 

3 


s 
< 


h 
ft 





•a 


ft 







36 


15 
30 
23 

20 

13 
8 
16 
10 
15 
15 
16 
16 

14 

80 

8 

44 

20 

(1)12 

9 

22 

30 

10 

20 

25 

10 

8 

16 

16 

(2) 8 

20 

20 

14 

18 


600 














4i 
4i 
6 

4 

e 
5 

4i 

4 

4 

5 

51 

8 

3 

20 
3.V 
6 

5i 
4 
5 
6 
8 

3+ 
51 
8 
4 

•i\ 
5 
5 
2i 
6 
6 

2i 

5 

180i 

8 
1 


5 
1 
5 
6 
\ 
6 
3 
2^ 
2 
6 

3i 
5 

6} 

4 
i 

l| 

6 

6 

5 

3 

5 


$ia 


do 














do 




















... do 




C 10-000 ) 
\ 10-700 5 


9 


70 










14 


do 














do 


.15 


500 


9 


70 










14 


do 










14 


do 




650 


8 


78 








12i 
14 


do 












do 




















... do 


60 

60 

45 


650 
650 

C 6-750? 

\ 8-600 5 


9 
9 

1\ 


80 
80 

84 










15 


do 










l^i 


do 










14 


do 












dc 


20 
60 


750 

600 


9 

8 


70 










14 


do 










14 


do 














do 




















do 


















....do 


















■ 


do 


80 

30 

60 

(1) 150 


650 
700 
650 
650 


10 


72 










14 


do 










14 


do 


10 
10 


80 
80 










14 


do 










14 


do 












do 




















do 


45 


750 


9 


80 










13} 


do 










do 




500 


6 


76 










14 


do 


















625"" 

C 10-650 ) 
\ 4-500 5 


10 


70 
60 










14 


....do 


40 










14 


....do 


































607 






60 


720 
613 
480 
900 
600 
800 
550 
400 
1,100 
650 
650 
600 
700 

850 
400 

5 16-600? 

\ 40-550 5 
720 
450 
650 
650 
700 
750 
650 
900 


10 
9 
9 


75 
85 
65 














20 
30 

5 
(1)12 
20 
15 
15 

5 
12 
20 
10 
10 
15 

10 
20 

5G 

10 
5 
24 
16 
15 
12 
10 
12 


$1 
1( 


Water 


Overshot . 


50 








20 
35 








u 


do 












Water 


10 
10 


75 
75 


2 — central discharge 


5^ 


12 


1,500 


8^ 


Steam 


60 
45 


8i 














Water 








37 


.... 


100 






60 


10 


50 




1] 


Water 








2,500 






40 














Water 












2,500 






30 

40 
30 

50 

25 


9 


75 








12 


....do 












do 














10 


Steam and water. . . 
do 


8i 


80 


2— Overshot 

Central discharge . . 


{i-m! 

2 4-5 
32 
10 


14^ 

'32' 
14 


3,600 

1,800 
1,200 


10 


Water 








....do 


40 
45 
45 
40 
30 
40 








10 


Steam 










....do 
















....do 
















Steam and water . . 






Central discharge.. 


10 




],100 




Steam 











23 



354 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

TahuJar list of mills crushing ore from mines on the 



Names. 



Owners. 



Location. 







o 


C3 


-3 


> 




•O 


c3 




a 


S 










w 


< 


§75, 000 




35 000 




8,000 




1, 424, 000 




25 mills. 








$50, 000 


25, 000 




100, 000 




300, 000 




100, 000 




25, 000 




75, 000 




150, 000 




825, 000 




$75, 000 




60, 000 




100, 000 




75, 000 




34. 000 




100, OOO 




150, 000 




60, 000 




140, 000 




794. 000 





LYON COUNTY. -Con. 

Trench 

Weston's (1) 

Weston's (1) 

Total 27 



ORMSBY COUNTY. 

Brunswick 

Carson 

Merrimac (I) 

Mexican (1) 

Santiago 

Sierra 

Vivian 

Yellow Jacket 

Total 8 

WASHOE COUNTY. 

Atchison 

Buckeye 

Manhattan (1) 

Minnesota 

Napa 

New York & Washoe 

Ophir Reduction 
Works (1.) 

Temelec 

* Washoe Valley Re- 
duction Works. 

Total 9 



Joseph Trench 
Wm. Weston.., 
Wni. Weston.. 



Silver City . 
Johntown . . 
do .... 



1861 

leea 

1862 



Williams &. Sharon . 
W. Sharon, agent... 
Rice ifc Yerrington.. 

Alsop ifc Co 

Santiago M. Co 



Beach & Harrington. 

P. Frothingham 

Yellow Jacket M. Co 



1 mile below Empire 

3 miles west of Carsoa 

\h mile below Empire 

Empire 

4 miles below Empire, on 
Carson river. 

3 miles west of Carson 

3J^ miles below Empire 

Empire 



1863 
1862 

1862 
1862 
1862 



1860 
1864 



Savage Co 

Lambert &Co , 

New York ife Nevada Co. . 

Savage M. Co , 

James Hill & Co 

New York & Washoe Co. . 
Ophir M. Co 



Washoe 

, do .... 

, do .... 

, do .... 

Galena 

Washoe 

Franktown . 



1862 
1863 
18G3 



Baldwin & Bonner. 
J. H. Dall 



Washoe 

Franktown. 



1863 
1862 



1865 
1863 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, 
ComstocJc lode during the year 1866 — Continued, 



355 





u 

o 
p< 


STAMPS. 


WHEELS. 


WATER. 


WOOD. 


Motive power. 


a 

s 

|2i 


■a 
a 

3 
o 

ft 


o 

■s 

a 

a 

p 


6 

a 

1 
u 

p. 

s. 

p 



Kind. 


1 
1 

as 
(5 




"i 

a 
o 

a 
< 


<u 
p. 

o 

o 


-2 

o 
o 

p< 
o 




30 
40 


00 
15 
10 


600 
550 
250 














6 

4i 




do 


9 
9 


80 
70 










11 


Water 


Overshot 


40 


42 


80 


11 












424 
29 


















































395 






1 000 


10 


80 






21 




i 




Water 


8 
10 
20 
44 
24 

8 
16 
40 


6 


do 










do 
















7i 


















7i 


Water 










2— Central discharge 








74 


do 
















'6 






650 


10 


80 


Central discharge. - 


7 


14 




9 


Water . ... 




74 
























170 






















6 
G 

6 
6 
4 

8 
20 

6 
20 

82 






"0 


i 




do 




10 

24 
16 
20 
24 

72 

15 
60 

261 
































































































do 








































.. do 


300 










6'! 












.... 












■■ 1 


1 ! 









356 KESOURCES OF STATES AND TEEEITOEIES 

Tabular list of mills crushing ore from mines on the 



Owners. 



STOREY COUNTY. 

Atlas 

Atwood's 

Bay State 

Uowers' 

Central 

Crown Point (1) 

Comet (1) 

Douglas (1) 

Eclipse 

Empire State 

Empire No. 1 (1) ... 
Empire No. 2 (1) ... 

Gold Hill 

CtOuM it Curry 

Hoosier Slate 

Imperial 

Land's 

Mariposa 

Marysville (1) 

Ogden 

Pacific 

Petaluma (1) 

Piute 

Rhode Island 

Eigby'g(l) , 

Kogers' (1) 

Sapphire 

Simcooc 

Stevenson's (1) 

Succor (1) 

Summit 

Union , 

Winfield 

Total 33 



LYON COUNTY. 



Haggin & Tevis 

George Atwood 

Bay State Mill Co 

L. S. Bowers 

J. B. Dickenson 

Crown Point G. & S. M. Co . 
New York & Nevada M. Co. 

C. S.Wheeler 

Eclipse M. & M. Co 

Wm. Sharon, agent 

W. S. Hobart 

Empire M. & M. Co 

Gold Hill Q. M. &M. Co ... 

Gould & Curry M. Co 

Clark & Hearst 

Imperial S. JI. Co 

Charles Land 

J. V. McCurdy 

O'Neale, Kule & Glasier 

O. S. CarvlU , 

Sharon & Co 

Greely Bros 

M. Livingslon 

Crowu Point G. & S. M. Co 

Rigby &Co , 

Rogers S. M. Co 

W. S. Hobart 

A. Bassett &. Co 

C. C. Stevenson 

O'Neale, Rule & Co , 

Mason, CarviUe & Wright. 

Wm. Kidd 

L. A. Booth 



Lower Gold Hill 

Flowery (Six Mile Creek) . . . 

American Flat 

Crowu I'oint Ravine, (G. H) . 

Virginia 

Crown Point Ravine, (G. K) . 

Gold Hill 

Lower Gold Hill 

Gold Hill 

Seven Mile Canon 

Virginia 

Lower Gold Hill 

Gold Hill...... 

Seven Mile Canon 

Virginia 

Lower Gold Hill 

Seven Mile Caiiou 

do 

Lower Gold Hill 

Virginia 

Lower Gold Hill 

do 

do 

Gold Hill 

American Flat 

Seven Mile Canon 

Lower Gold HUl 

Seven Mile Canon 

Gold Hill 

Lower Gold Hill 

Virginia 

Gold Hill 

Seven Mile Canon 



1861 



18C3 
1862 



181)0 
I860 
1860 



1862 
1860 



1863 



1863 
1862 



1862 
1861 



1860 



1861 



20 
35 
25 
12 
8 
20 
16 
25 
15 
30 
33 
17 
100 
13 
30 
30 
15 
18 
20 
50 
12 
40 
50 
12 
12 
28 
25 
5 
26 
35 
14 
30 



846 



Bacon 

Birdsallifc Carpenter 

Cole &Co , 

Confidence 

Dayton No. 1 

Dayton No. 2 (1).., 

Daney 

Eagle 

Eastern Slope 

Eureka 

Excelsior 

Franklin 

Gold Canon Reduc- 
tion W^orks. 

Golden Eagle 

Illinois 

Imperial (Rook Pt.). 

Island 

Monitor 

Ophir (New) 

Phoenix No. 1 (1).. 

Pioneer (1) 

Sacramento (1) 

San Francisco 

Swansea 



Lowe & Fair 

Birdsall & Carpenter. . . 
Cole & Co 

Confidence M.J3o 

Winters, Kustlll &. Co , 
do do ... 

Daney M. & M. Co 



Stevenson, Winters & Co . 
W^heeler, Hurd & Dunker. 

John Briggs 

Wm. Shai'on, agent 

Wm. Sharon, agent 



ONeale, Rule& Co... 
Wm. Sharon, agent... 

Imperial M. Co 

O'Neale, Rule <fc Co. . . 

Hirschraau & Co 

Ophir S.M. Co 

Hentsch & Berton 

Sheldon & Ilickok 

Hunt, Woodruff & Co. 

Charles Schad 

W. Sharon, agent 



Silver City 1 1863 

Dayton , 

Johntown 

Silver City 

Dayton 

do 

3 miles from Dayton 

Silver City 

Below Silver City 

Carson River, near Dayton 

Johntown 

Carson River, near Dayton 
Silver City 



Carson River, near Dayton . . 

do do 

do do , 

do do 

Gold Canon, near Dayton 

Cai'sou River 

Below Silver City 

Silver City 

Johntown 

Carson River, near Dayton. . . 
Johntown 



18G5 
1864 
1861 
1861 
1864 
1863 
1864 
1862 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1861 

1861 
1864 
186 1 
1862 
1865 
1864 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1862 



5 
14 
20 
30 
20 

\i 
20 
22 
18 
16 



48i 
19 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
Comstock lode during the year 1866 — Continued- 



357 





a 
o 

g 

"3 
> 

o 

o 


S 


PANS. 


75 


p 
< 


o 


a 


p. 


■a 

1 
a 

o 

p. 


o 


.a 


a 
1 




S3 
g 

3 

3 


$1 75 


$250 








8 




4 
2 

7 








750 




26 


14 








eoo 




250 

(1) 100 

(1) 100 

75 

350 

75 

300 














1 400 


75 





(2) 30 






1 






750 
670 






(2) 4 




(2) 4 








6 


8 




1 






250 
















600 


87* 














1 






415 










8 
2 




4 




2 


700 






(1) 20 


2 






700 


1 75 


SCO 
300 
225 














*900 








12 






G 
4 

2-1 








1 000 


87J 


(1) 5 


24 












475 






39 


3 








3,500 
400 


1 00 


200 
300 




(1) 24 
74 




3 

2 






75 














1 100 




10 
6 






5 
(2) 3 


(B) 1 


2 


1 000 




150 
75 




2 






600 








2 






500 








12 
15 






4 
(1) 5 

4 
(1) 6 

4 

4 






1 000 


1 75 


400 
150 
300 
400 
150 












2 


1,305 


1 00 


1ft 






1 




300 


1 00 








12 
8 


5 




1 


1,200 


70 




(2) 13 




2 


1 


1,350 
400 




















360 


1 25 


250 


2 


56 








2 
3 


1 


(1) 1 




850 




(1)4 
(3)1 


2 




700 


1 00 


30 

150 
300 
200 


10 








150 




2 


'{2)"l 


1 
4 


1 

1 
1 






600 


1 00 






11 






900 


1 00 


14 










400 








8 




4 


(B) 1 


1 


1 000 



















5,380 
25 mills. 


27 


305 


91 


93 


9 


101 


17 


4 


8 


26, 820 


2 00 








17 
20 
4 






4 

(2) 10 

2 

5 

(2) 2 

4 


2 
5 
















' 




(B) 1 


1 


1 900 


3 00 












125 


1 75 










8 


3 

(3) 2 
3 






650 


3 50 








6 


• 






500 


3 50 










8 






800 


3 25 




$15 












500 


2 00 




o 
















40 


1 50 








6 





(1) 3 

5 

1 


1 
2 






550 


3 25 








10 


(1) 1 




1,100 


3 00 






18 






530 


4 25 




5 


2 


2 
6 










500 


1 50 




(1) 7 
24 








teoo 


3 50 








1 

2 

(1) 7 
3 








500 


3 50 








6 
14 


8' 


3 
3 






500 


3 00 




(1) 27 






(B) (2) 1 




12, 400 


3 00 








500 


3 00 








2 










75 


4 25 








12 




6 
4 


1 






1,200 


2 00 














50O 


1 75 




















550 


3 00 
















1 






550 


3 00 




7 
(1) 23 






3 










500 


2 75 










3 








600 



''Soon will be 1,200 per month. 



t750 tons per month ; October 15, 1866. 

JNow 2,800 tons). 



358 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Tabular list of mills from mines crushing ore on the 



Owners. 



LYONCOUNTY.-Con. 

Trench 

Weston's (1) 

Weston's (1) 

Total 27 



ORMSBY COUNTY. 

Brunswick 

Carson 

Merrimac (1) 

Mexican (1; 

Santiago 

Sierra 

Vivian 

-Yellow Jacket 

Total 8 



WASHOE COUNTY. 

Atchison 

Buckeye 

Manhattan (1) 

Minnesota 

3^apa 

New York & Washoe 
Ophir Reduction 

Works (1.? 
Temelec 

* Washoe Valley Re- 
"luction Works. 

Total 9 



Joseph Trench. 
Wm. AVeston . . 
Wm. Weston.. 



Silver City . 
Johntown . , 
do .... 



]861 
1862 
1862 



Williams & Sharon 
W. Sharon, agent... 
Rice & Yerringtou.. 

Alsop&Co 

Santiago M. Co 



Beach & Harrington . 

P. Frothingham 

Yellow Jacket M. Co. 



1 mile below Empire 

3 miles west of Carson 

H mile below Empire 

Empire 

4 miles below Empire, on 
Carson river. 

3 miles west of Carson 

3J miles below Empire 

Empire 



1863 
1862 
1862 
1862 
1862 



1860 
1864 



Savage Co 

Ijarabert & Co 

New York k, Nevada Co . 

Savage M. Co 

James HiU&Co 

New York & Washoe Co. 
Ophii- M. Co 



Washoe 

do .... 

do .... 

do .... 

Galena 

Washoe 

Frauktown . 



1862 
1863 
1863 



Baldwin & Bonner. 
J. H. Ball 



Washoe 

Franktown . 



1863 
18(52 



1865 
1863 



G4U 
4 



280 



308 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 
ComstocJc'lode during tJie year 1866. — Continued. 



359 







a 

p. 

1 




3 


PANS. 


CO 


To 

< 




13 
a 

'u 






■5 
0! 

1 

u 

p. 






M 



c 









>> - 

cs 
§• . 

tog 

.s a 

P 



$1 75 






















800 


2 00 








9 






5 


1 






700 


2 00 














































76 


51 


70 
9 


49 


24 


C9 
5 


27 

1 


3 


1 




































61 






64 


26 


























4 00 












8 


4 






1 


600 


























4 


15 




1 


(1) c 


10 






1 350 








12 
4 






*1 260 










14 




9 




(B) 1 




1 100 












3 75 








8 






4 
15 


1 




(1) 1 


....„ 


75C 










30 




2 300 






















4 


37 


46 


9 


38 


13 





3 




















10 

8 






8 


4 


1 
1 


'""i" 


J. 900 














700 














8 
6 


1 300 










13 






] 


1 


1,000 




























16 


8 






1 


1,300 


















t450 










12 






(1) 3 








800 












6 




(2) 2 




'1, 725 




























48 




22 


33 


5 


5 


^, 2 

















' By wet proceBS 1,000, and dry 260 tons. t Full capacity 750 tons. 

tWet, 1,050; dry, 675 tons. 



360 RESOURCES OP STATES AND TERRITORIES 



NOTES ON MILLS. 

STORE V COUNTY. 

Bowers (1)— Paid this for 5 months only ; has been idle four months ; new running, with 
own water ; (2) 5-f'oot pans. 

Central (1)— To Virginia and Gold Hill Water Companies; also, pays $ to Ophir 

Company. 

(2)— Hepburn and Peterson's, working 500 tons per month wet ; four furnaces and six 
barrels, working 170 tons dry. 

Croicii Point ( I ) — Just dismantled ; engine used to drain mine. 

Comet (1)— Been idle for seven months ; just started again. 

Douglas (1)— 10-inch cylinder, SO-inch stroke, 26 plain pans. 

Empire No. 1 (1)— Increasing stamps to 21 ; capacity to be 40 tons per day; to employ 
IG men, 27 Wakelee pans. 

Empire No. 2 (1) — Concentrators and two stamps for breaking. 

Empire State ( I) — 4-foot pans. 

Gold Hill (I)— G-foot tubs. 

Hoosier State ( 1 ) — With steam chambers. 

Land's (B)— Throughout the table designates Blake's breakers. 

Mariposa (1) — Also one prospecting stamp; (2) large. 

Manjsville (1) — 30 5-foot plain pans. 

Pacific (1) — Large. 

Pelaluma (1)— Stamps being increased to 16 ; capacity to 2G tons per day ; men to 11 ; 
wood to five cords ; adding eight improved Wheeler pans, four settlers and one agitator. 

Piute (1) — 8-foot settlers. 

Rhode Island (1)— 18-inch cylinder; (2) 7-foot pans. 

Righifs (1 ) — One extra pan and settler for tailings and one barrel. 

Rogers's ( 1 ) — Not running for four months. 

Saphire (J) — Wheeler. 

Simcooc ( 1 ) — Improved. 

Stcve7ison ( 1 )— 8i-inch cylinder ; (2) Howland's rotary battery ; can crush seven tons and 
amalgamate five tons per day ; (3) Small. 

Succor (1) — 24 Wakelee flat-bottomed pans. 

Summit (1)— Burnt and rebuilt in 1863; (2) small pan and settler. 

LYON COUNTY. 

Birdsall (])—m\], $110,000; ditch, §40,000; total, $150,000. 

Carpenter (2) — Large-sized Wheeler. 

Dayton No. 1 (1)— Four of these for prospecting; (2) 8-foot settlers ; (3) Knox. 

Dayton No. 2 (1) — Two roasting furnaces. 

Eastern Slope (l)—!^^!^^. 

Eureka (1) — Break 80 tons per day. 

G. C. Reduction fVorks (I) — 5-foot pans. 

Imperial Rock Pt. (1)— 7-foot tubs and settlers ; (2) breaker, large size. 

PhfEiiix No. 1 (1) — Eight tubs and Wheeler pans. 

Pioneer (J) — 15 tubs and Wheeler pans. 

Sacramento (1) — 12 7-foot iron pans. 

Swansea (1) — 6-foot tubs and one prospecting battery and pan, 

Trench (1) — 16 fiat 7-foot pans, one excelsior and two Wheeler and Randall pans. 

Weston's (Steam)— (1)— Worked but about 1,000 tons of Comstock ore this year; hauling 
about $3 per ton. 

Weston's (Water)- ( 1 )— Six flat-bottomed pans ; has run but little this year for want of water 

OUMSBY COUNTY. 

Merrimac (1)— -Also, one prospecting battery and pan ; (2) large. 
Mexican (1)— Four furnaces and 10 barrels. 
"'^ivian ( 1 ) — Hanscom's. 

WASHOE COUNTY. 

Manhattan (1) — 16 pans. 

Ophir (!) — Working but 36 stamps — Freiberg process — nine furnaces. 

Reduction Works — 24 amalgamating barrels. 

Temelec (I) — Large. 

* Washoe I'allcy (1)— Wheeler 12-feet breast ; full capacity about 300 horse-power. 

Reduction Works — 40 stamps used for Freiberg process, and 20 for wet ; eight furnaces and 
2 barrels for dry process ; four Wheeler and Randall's pans for wet ; four more Varney pans 
to be introduced ; (2) Blake's improved saw. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 361 

Process or Reduction. — The ores from tlie Comstock lode are probably the 
most docile silver ores found in Nevada, and tlie process nsed for their reduction 
is of the simplest kind. After crashing by the stamps, the large boulders being 
first reduced to a moderate size by hand labor or by Blake's patent crashers, the 
material as it passes from the battery is collected and settled in tanks to avoid 
as much as possible the risk of fine particles passing off with the superfluous 
water. In spite of all precautions much loss is sustained from this source, expe- 
rience showing that the most impalpable of the slum is the richest in proportion. 
Out of 40,432 tons of ore worked at the Gould & Curry mill 4,431 tons were 
lost in this manner. 

From the tanks the crushed ore is i:)assed to the iron grinding pans, a descrip- 
tion of which will be found in preliminary report, pages 76 and 77. The charges 
vary from 500 to 1,500 pounds, according to the character and capacity of the pans 
nsed. In these pans the ore is ground from four to six hours, being in that time 
reduced to an almost impalpable powder. The mode of treatment varies con- 
siderably, some mill men using a variety of chemicals, sncb as sulphate of iron, 
muriatic and sulphm'ic acids, &c., while others dispense with them almost entirely. 
Their object is to assist the reduction of the silver in combination, but much 
uncertainty exists as to their beneficial operation. Each charge is invariably 
mixed with a considerable amount of salt, varjdng with the richness of the ore. 
Towards the end of the process the quicksilver is usually added, the mullers of 
the pans being at the same time slightly raised to prevent the grinding or "flour- 
ing " of the mercury. After a sufficient time has elapsed to allow a thorough 
amalgamation, the pulp is thinned by the addition of water, and revolved in such 
a way as to allow the amalgam to settle to the bottom. For economy of time, this 
is usually accomplished in large vats called " sectlers," especially adapted for that 
purpose. The refuse matter is then drawn off and treated by various methods of con- 
centration, to be spoken of afterwards. This process is used only for second and 
third class ore, it being found better to employ the Freiburg process for first-class 
ores. The Central mill in Vfrginia^ and the Washoe reduction works and Ophir 
mill in Washoe valley are the only ones adapted to this method, the amount 
of ore requiring this treatment being but a small percentage of the entire product 
of the lode. 

Some mill men amalgamate in the battery while the ore is being crushed, but 
the practice is not by au}^ means universal. In fact, the treatment of ores is in 
a great measure empirical, but little attention being given in Nevada to analyti- 
cal chemistry, and the adaptation of the working processes to the results devel- 
oped. In this connection the following assays or rather analyses of Comstock 
ores may be found of interest : 

Ophir mine— a first-class ore and metal produced therefrom by the Freiburg process, by 
George Attvvood. 

Gangue 63.380 .00 

Silver 2.786 41.51 

Gold 059 1.58 

Lead 4.151 39.01 

Antimony 087 .00 

Zinc 14.455 .56 

Sulphiu- 7.919 .00 

Copper 1.596 17.04 

Iron 5.463 .17 

99.896 99.87 



362 



KESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



' Ore from Calitornui mine, Virginia. No. 1 made in London; iNo. 2 at Swansea. 

No. 1. 

Silica 67.5 

Sulphur 8. 75 

Copper 1.30 

Iron 2.25 

Silver 1.75 

Gold .059 

Zinc 12.85 

Lead 5. 75 

Loss .25 



No. 2. 

65. 783 

11.35 

1.31 

2.28 

1.76 

.57 

11. 307 

6.145 



100.00 100.00 



Yellow Jacket ores, second-class ; by W. F. Rickard, ! 

White. 

Gold :... .005=$30 03 

Silver 150= 62 83 

Iron 575 

Lead Traces. 

Copper Traces. 

Sulphur 693 

Lime Traces. 

Silica 98.310 

Loss 267 

100. 000 $92 86 



'. c. s. 






Brown. 




Mixed. 


.001= $7 


52 


.002=$ 10 04 


. 050= 21 


99 


. 157= 65 98 


2.800 




1.230 


Traces. 




Traces. 


Traces. 




Traces. 


.160 




.457 


.000 




Traces. 


96. 560 




97. 850 


.429 




.304 



100.000 $29 51 100.000 $76 02 



The difference in the composition of these ores is worthy of notice. The 
OjDhir and California mines are situated in the northern part of the explored 
portion of the lode, where a much larger percentage of base metal is encoun- 
tered than elsewhere. These ores are evidently unsuited to the simple process 
just described. The anatysis of Yellow Jacket ores presents a fair sample of the 
general composition of second and third-class rock from the Comstock mines. It 
will be seen at a glance that the amount of base metal present is extremely small, 
the ore consisting almost entirely of sulphuret of silver and iron and native 
metals. 

Cost of Reduction. — The following details taken from the published reports 
of mining companies show a material diminution from the cost in former years, 
due in great measure to improvements in machinery, systematization of labor, 
and increased knowledge of the method of reduction : 

Savage mine, average for 12 months ending July 1, 1867 $14 04 

Savage mine, for the previous year 16 74 

Hale & Norcross mine, average for 12 months ending March, J 867 14 26 

Gould & Curry mine, average for 12 months ending November, 1866 13 30 

The following table, from the report of the Gould & Cuny Com])an}', will 
show' the relative proportion of the various items. It will be noticed that the 
total cost per ton is loss than the average given above. This arises from the fact 
that the company had ores Avorked at custom mills, the cost of which was greater 
than at their own mill as given below : 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



363 



Cost 2>€r ton in detail of ore reduced at the Gould 4' Cumj 


mill. 






c 

o 

.a 

i3 


■3 
O 


.5 
O 


& 
o 




■i 

'3 


.2 

13 
3 
CO 


"3 
o 




$0 71.33 














$0 71. 3.7 
4 61.21 




.58. 88 
41.32 
65. 98 
70. 81 
84. 10 


.$3 97. Si 










jo 12.49 












03. 33 
10. 39 
10. 90 
09.41 
90 


44. 6j 




64.'65 


SO 20. 8.J 








97. 21 




59.36 


$0 43. 50 


$6 27. 06 $0 86. 59 


3 08. St 




1 53. 4J 












90 
















Totals 


3 90.42 


4 02. 49 


80. 21 


43. 50 


27. 06 80. .59 


1 96. 48 


12 26. 7i' 











Great as lias been tlie decrease in the price of reducing" ores since the com- 
mencement of operations in Virginia, the construction of a raiboad into Virginia 
from any point on the Truckee river (where fuel is abundant) would result in » 
still further reduction. In this connection attention is called to the follow- 
ing figures from the last report of the State surveyor general : 

STOREY COUNTY. 

The table contains a list of 33 mills, all steam, estimated to bave cost $2,000,000, with an 
assessed value for 32 of $953,705, say, for tbe 33, $970,000, containing 607 stamps, with ;l 
crushing capacity of 846 tons per day, nearly 1.4 tons per stamp, consuming 180^ cords oi 
wood per day, average cost about $14 per cord ; total, $2,527, or nearly $3 per ton, and aboul 
$4 15 per stamp. 

Twenty-four mills pay the Virginia & Gold Hill Water Company $5,280 per month foi 
water; add water tax, $130 per month ; total, $5,410, cost of water per month for 24 mills, 
which contain 399 stamps, with a crushing capacity of 562 tons, or 14,612 tons per month 
of 26 days. Cost per ton of ore worked for water, 37 cents, or 52 cents per stamp. 

Aggregate distance of 33 mills from the mines about iS^ miles ; average distance about 
1^ mile, (for custom mills the distance is estimated, with one or two exceptions, from the 
divide between Virginia and Gold Hill;) and the average cost of hauling is about $1J per 
ton, ranging from 70 cents to $2. 

846 tons per day for 26 days would equal — 

21,996 tons, at $3 for wood $65,988 00 

*21,9G6 tons, at 37 cents for water 8,127 42 

21,966 tons, at $1^ for hauling 27, 457 50 

Total per month for wood, water and hauling 101,572 92 

or $4 62 per ton. 

LYON COUNTY. 

Total mills, 27. Steam, 16 ; water, 8 ; steam and water, 3. Estimated cost of 15 steam, 
7 water, 3 steam and water mills — -$1,464,000. 

The 27 mills contain 424 stamps, from which deduct 4 usotl for prospecting, and we ha'^e 
420 stamps, with a crushing capacity of 641A tons per day ; from which deduct 1 mill with 
10 stamps, capacity 7 tons, which has run but little during the year ; also 1 mill Avith 15 
stamps, capacity 25 tons, which has crushed but about 1,000 tons during the year of Comstock 
ore; and we have 25 mills with 395 stamps, with a capacity of 6194- tons per day, or 1.57 
tons per stamp ; using 100 cords of wood per day, costing about $10 per cord. Total, $1,000 : 
equal to $1 61 per ton, or $2 53 per stamp. 

The aggregate distance of 25 mills from the mines is about 135 miles; average distance 
5.4 miles, and average cost for hauling about $2 75, ranging from $1 50 to $4 25. 

25 mills employ 3)5 men, or one man for 1.97 tons. 

619^ tons per day for 26 days equal 16,107 tons ; add for Weston'st steam mill 93 tons per 
monthly average; total per month, 16,200 tons. 

16,200 tons, at $2 75 per ton for hauling $44,550 00 

16,200 tons, at$l 61 per ton for wood 26,082 00 

Total per month for wood and hauling ''O) 632 00 

or $4 36 per ton. 



364 RESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

ORMSBY COUNTY 

Six water, and two steam and water mills. Estimated cost, $825,000; with 170 stamps, 
crusbinj^ capacity, 280 tons per day, or 1.65 tons per stamp; ag'gregate distance from mines, 

80 miles ; average distance, 10 miles; average cost for hauling, say .$4 per ton ; llj cord 
of wood at, say, $8 per cord, .f 94, or 33J- cents per ton, or 55 cents per stamp. 

280 tons per day for 20 days equal — 

G,780tons, at $4 for hauling $27,120 

(i,780 tons, at 33i cents for wood 2, 2C)0 

Total per month for wood and hauling 29, 380 

or $4 33 per ton. 

WASHOK COUNTY. 

Five steam, and four steam and water mills; estimated cost, $794,000; containing 261 
stamps ; crushing capacity, 308 tons per day, or 1.18 tons per stamp, consuming about 82 
cords of wood at, say, $5 per cord ; total, $410, or $1^ per ton, or $1 57 per stamp. 

Average distance of mills from mines, say 14 miles, and average cost of hauling $4 50 
per ton. 

308 tons per day for 26 days equal — 

8,008 tons, at $4 50 per ton for hauling $36,036 00 

8,008 tons, at $li per ton for wood 10,677 33 

Total per month for wood and hauling 46, 713 33 

or $5 83 per ton. 

From tlicse tables it appears wlien wood is Avortli in Virginia 814 per cord, tlie 
cost of this item per ton of ore rednced is about $'3. Any railroad could put 
wood down at tlie same mills for $9 per cord, witli great advantage to tlie com- 
pany. This would be a saving of $5 per cord, or about $1 07 per ton. IMaking 
this alteration in the details of Storey county mills, the cost of reduction per ton 
for the items of wood, water and hauling, the total would be $3 55 per ton, or 

81 cents less than the most favorable average results at mills working Comstock 
ores, or $2 02 less than the most unfavorable. Competent judges estimate that 
by taking these ores to the Truokee river the total cost of reduction per ton 
W'ould not exceed about $9 or $10. 

Peecextage of Yield and Loss. — Experience has showui that for the ordi- 
nary ores of the Comstock, G5 per cent, of the assay value of the ore is about the 
proportion which can be extracted by the process in use, and custom mills are 
required to return at least that proportion. Careful assays are made daily of the 
ore as it is raised from the mine, it being customary to take a handfnl of ore from 
each car load as it is brought to the surface, and place it in a box placed near the 
shaft for the purpose. Several times during the day the contents of this sample 
box are thoroughly mixed and several assays made of them ; the average of 
which Avill show very nearly the quality of ore being raised at any particular 
time. In some cases the value of the ore is ascertained by sampling the con- 
tents of each wagon load as it leaves the mine, in the manner just described. 
During the process of reduction, assays are taken of the pulp as it leaves the 
batteries, which of course from the intimate admixture of the ore will be more 
reliable, but if amalgamation for free metal in the batteries is adopted, as at some 
mills, the millman can gain but little idea of -what he is doing, as the quantity 
of metal saved in the batteries is an unknowai item, to be ascertained only when 
a thorough clean up is made. To avoid unnecessary detention from this source, 
which requires a stoppage of all machinery, this is not done much oftener than 
about every two weeks. The following tables are valuable in this connection. 
The statistics from the Hale and Norcross mine may be taken as a fair illustra- 
tion of the average results of milling operations in this section. It will be noticed 
that the percentage of gold lost is small compared with the silver, showing the 
former metal to be present chiefly in an uncombined form. The table suggests 
&ome important questions. It shows that Ave are losing annually about 35 per 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



365 



cent, of tlic value of the ore mined from the Corastock. The yield of bullion 
last year was in round numbers, say, 815,000,000, Avhich would show the loss to 
have been about 88,000,000. The enormous extent of this loss is well understood, 
but so far no feasible means of lessening- it without diminishing the net profits 
on the result have been suggested, or at least shown to be practicable. Excep- 
tional lots of ore will work nearer to the assay value, but only in rare instances. 
How small a percentage of the metal which escapes the mill is saved by future 
0])erations will appear under the neit heading. The great difficulty to contend 
with lies in the cost of labor and fuel. The average yield of all ores worked at 
the present time does not probably exceed 835 per ton, equivalent to a loss of 
818 90 per ton, supposing 835 to re^jresent 65 per cent, of the assay value of 
the ores. If by using the Freiburg process we saved 80 per cent., the average 
yield per ton would be 843 12, or an advance of 88 12, which would not cover 
the additional cost of labor and fuel. The price charged for treatment ])}' the 
Freiburg process in this district is 845 per ton, with a guarantee of only 80 per 
cent. Its non-applicability to low grade ores is at once apparent, the cost of 
reduction being greater than the average yield of the ores. To make it avail- 
able, it is evident that the additional 15 per cent, of the assay value saved must 
cover the increased cost of reduction, which is, say, 831, so that it will prove val- 
uable only wheii the ores are worth 8200 per ton and upwards. In practice a 
lower grade than that may be adopted, it being found by experience that the 
percentage of loss in working ores by the net process increases with the greater 
value of the mineral. Under these circumstances we must look rather to improve- 
ments on the present modes of treating the ''tailings" from the mill by concen- 
tration or otherwise. 

HALE AND KORCROSS MINE. 

Table showing the assay value of the ore extracted during twelve months oper- 
ations, also the yield and loss per ton, the percentage of yield and loss, and 
the entire results. 





Assay value of ores. 


Yield. 


Loss. 


Ore. 




o 

»-< 

p. 

o 

a 
> 


' 6 
> 


o 

u 


Hi 


"3 
o 


a 
o 


u 


i. 

o 


First six months — 
Gold 


Tons. 


Lbs. 


$24 39 
40 79 


$306, 582 90 
512,81)5 43 


$20 92 
21 30 


8.5.8 
.52.2 


$263, 043 90 
267, 764 65 


$3 46 
19 50 


14.2 
47.8 


$43, 539 00 
245, 130 73 
















Total 


12, 571 


1,950 


65 18 


819, 478 33 


42 42 


64.7 


530, 8C8 55 


22 96 


35.3 


288, 669 73 






Second six months — 

Gold 






29 18 
51 64 


468, 734 00 
829, 524 11 


24 9C 
26 42 


85.3 
51.2 


400, 016 18 
424, 395 67 


4 28 
25 22 


14.6 

48.8 


^9, 717 83 


Silver 






4'J5, 128 44 










Total 


16 C64 


30 


80 82 


1,298,258 11 


51 32 


63.5 


824, 411 851 29 56 


36 5 


473, 846 26 








Total for 12 months- 
Gold 






27 C7 
46 88 


775, 316 90 
1,342,419 54 


23 15 

24 17 


85.5 
51.6 


663, 060 08 
692,160 32 


3 9Q|14.5 
22 7148.4 


112, 256 82 


Silver 






650, 259 22 










Total 


28, 635 


1,980 


73 95 


2, 117, 736 44 


47 32 


63.9 


1, 355, 220 40 


26 63 36. 1 


762,516 04 











Note.— This table is copied from records on file in the office of the company. The original, prepared by 
Mr. Thompson, was marked out to six places of decimals for the cents. The omission of these will account 
for its apparent trifling discrepancies. 



366 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Gould and Cukkt Mine. — Table shoAving- the average value of the ore 
reduced during the year ending November 30, 1866, the yield at the mill and 
the loss per ton. (G. & 0. annual report for 1860 :) 

Average assay per tou |;43 95 

Average yield per ton, 75 per cent 33 02 

Average loss per ton, 25 per cent 10 93 

Total value of ore as per assay $1,582,247 43 

Bullion produced: 

Gold ^363,803 92 

Silver 825,277 85 

1,189,081 77 

Total loss, about 25 per cent 393, 165 66 



Note. — This table does not show the entire yield of the mine for the year, large quantities 
of ore being reduced at "custom mills." The statement refers only to ores reduced at the 
large mill o wired by the Gould and Curry Mining company. 

Concentration. — Concentration is employed only in the treatment of the 
"tailings/' or sands from which all the metal has been extracted which could be 
saved in the mill. The tailings are usually turned into the nearest watercourse, 
(many mills being so situated as to have no facilities for the construction of reser- 
voirs,) and the right to use them rented to other parties. Many plans have been 
suggested for their concentration, but the one in general use is extremely simple. 
It consists merely in passing the sands through shallow sluice boxes, the bottoms 
of which are covered with thick blankets. The fall of these sluices is consider- 
able to prevent packing of the sands, but the stream of water ir regulated so as 
to cover the blankets with a thin sheet only. In this way the heavy metalliferous 
particles are retained in passing over the rough sm'face of the blankets, the lighter 
sands passing off in the water. After a sluice box has been running several 
hours, the water is turned off, the blankets washed in a tank of Avater, and 
returned to their places. This constitutes the entire treatment. AVhcn the 
tank is nearly full of tailings, it is emptied and the resulting mass considerably 
increased in value by the elimination of waste sands, is ground and amalgamated 
in the manner already described. Latterly this has become quite an extensive 
branch of our mining business, and is said to yield a good return on the capital 
employed. 

The following items are taken from the report of the surveyor general for 1866 : 

Details of blanket washings in Six-mile canon for 1866 and 1867. 

Number of mills discharging tailings into the canon, 12. 

Probable number of tons worked during the year 1866, 100,000. 

Estimated value of tailings saved and worked in 1866, $72,000. 

Saving per ton of ore worked, 72 cents. 

Length of sluices, 22,000 feet. 

Cost of sluices, $20,p00. 

Estimated value of tailings saved and worked in 1867, $164,000. 

Saving per ton of ore worked in 1867, $1 64. • 

Average value of tailing saved per ton, $20. 

These items show only a portion of the operations. The total value of all' 
tailings saved in this manner was probably aboirt $200,000 for 1866, which will 
be doubled for 1867. These figures can only bo considered approximations, but 
they serve to show how small a percentage of the gross loss is saved by these 
means, and how large a field is yet open lor improvement. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



367 



SECTION xvii. 

YIELD OF THE MINES, NET PROFITS, ETC. 

Tlie following tables, taken from the circular of the San Francisco Stock and 
Exchange Board, will be found of interest in this connection : 

Table of the products of some of the prindpal mines in Virginia and Gold Hill; 
also shoioing dividends iKiid and assessments levied on the same during the year 
1866. 



Company. 



Bullion produced. 



Lady Bryan 

Dauoy 

Sierra Nevada 

Ophir 

Gould & Curry 

S.nvage 

Hale &, Norcross 

Cbollar-Potosi 

Bullion 

Exchequer 

Alpha 

Imperial 

Empire 

Bacon 

Confidence 

Yellowjacket 

Crown Point 

Belcher 

Overman 

Baltimore American. 



Total. 



$450, 000 

1, 605, 228 

1, 805, 800 

1, 199, 768 

848, 750 



910,167 
486, 778 



303, 920 
2, 310, 000 
1, 313, 357 



27, 953 



11,261,741 



Dividends. 



$252, 000 
360, OUO 
350, 000 



176, 000 
32, 400 



390, 000 
234, 000 



1, 794, 400 



$15,000 
26, 000 
55, 500 

184, 800 



175, 000 
32, 000 
144, 560 



18, 000 

78, OCO 

160, 000 



143, 520 

208, 000 

13, 000 



1, 273, 3S0 



Production ofbidlion hy Storey county during the year ending December 31, 1866. 

January $816,430 43 

February 971,64.3 46 

March 1,061,577 65 

April 1,052,759 89 

May 1,145,293 41 

June 1,244,297 54 

July 1.198,741 56 

August 1,420,902 35 

September..... 1,169,391 46 

October 1,409,220 00 

November 1,327,985 00 

December 1,348,828 80 

Total _... 14,167,071 55 



In United States cun-ency this represents a value of $18,072,934, on which 
federal taxes were paid as folloAvs': 

From January to July, inclusive, -fu of one per cent, on $9,402,062 

From August to December, inclusive, i of one per cent, on $8,670,872 



Total tax 



$56,412 37 
43,354 36 

99, 766 73 



SbQ EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Production ofhidlion in Storcij count ij for tlic first seven inontlis 0/1867. 

January $1,330,832 80 

February 1,233,811 C3 

March 979,786 78 

April 1,567,427 60 

May 1,784,724 25 

June 1,594,794 22 

Total 8,501,377 28 

July 1,613,559 75 

Total , 10,114,937 03 

XoTE. — The montli of IMarcli was characterized by the most severe snow-storm 
which has yet been experienced in Virginia. The roads were nearly impassable 
for two weeks — to such an extent, indeed, that firewood rose from SlG to $45 per 
cord, and was scarcely obtainable even at that price. The mills situated at some 
distance from the mines were entirely cut off from new supplies of ore, and reduced 
only such reserve as had l^een accumulated; hence the marked diminution in the 
monthly production of bullion. 

Table of assessments levied on Comstoch mines during the first six months of 1867. 



Company. 


1st quarter. 


2cl quarter. 




$5, 200 
28, 080 
25, 000 






$15,600 
50, COO 
30, 6U0 








39, 000 
81, COG 
32, COO 
1,500 
12, 000 


1 300 


Ophir 








Sides 


14, OCO 




42, 000 










220, 780 


153, 500 
226, 780 


Total for six months 


360, 280 









Dividends of leading claims on the Comstock lode. 

SECOND QUARTER IN 1867. 



Company. 


April. 


May. 


June. 


Total. 


Sa\rijo -. . , 

Hals & Norcross 

Imperial ,.., 

Yellow Jacket 


$80, GOO 
50, 000 
60, 000 


$120, 000 
50, 000 
60, 000 
60, 000 
70, 000 
40, OOO 
48, 000 
5,000 
7,200 


$160, COO 
50, 000 
40, 000 
90, OCO 
70, 000 
60, 000 


$360, 000 
150, 001) 
160, 000 
150,000 


Chollar-Potosi 




140, 000 


Kentuck , 




100, 000 




48, 000 
0, OUG 


96, 000 


Gold Hill Q. M. & M. Co 


5,000 


15, 000 




7,200 




















Total 


243, 000 


460,200 


475, 000 


1, i;8, 20O 




790, 000 














1, 968, 200 













WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 

Dividends of the leading claims on the Comstoclc lode — ContinuerL 

SECOND QUARTER OF 1866. 



369 



Savage 












$20, 000 


$20, 000 
40, COO 


$20,000 


$60, 000 
40, 000 










ClioUar-Potosi 






















48, 000 


48, 000 


A(<. 000 


144 000 


Gold Hill Q. M. & M. Co 




Empire Mill auJ Mining Co 












90, 000 




96, 000 


]9o Qoo 








Total 


164, 000 


108, COO 


164, 000 


436 000 


First quarter 1866 


90, 000 










Total since January, 1866 


526, 000 










The fig^Tgate yield of tlie Comstock lode since its opening lias been so fully 
siioken of in tlie preliminary report, tliat I shall here confine m3-self chiefly to a 
comparison of the operations of 18G6 ^vith the first six months of the present 
year. , 

Although the first taido does not show the entire yield of the mines for 1S66, 
which reached, as shown elsewhere, the sum of 614,167,071, it will answer as a 
basis for an inquiry into the actual profits of mining enterprises in this district 
for the year, inasmuch as mines owned by private companies, the returns of which 
are not madepublic, are generally worked only while they prove profitable, or at 
any rate yield suflicient bullion to cover the actual expenses of their development. 

By striking out of the assespment table the items relative to the Lady Brian 
and Daney mines, which are not on the Comstock lode, we have the following 
result : 

Dividends paid during 1866 $1,794,400 00 

Assessments paid during 1866 1 , 232, 380 00 

Net profit for the year 1866 562,020 00 



Equal to about five per cent, of the gross yield of the mines under consideration. 
Ihe table shows, however, that out of the 11 mines producing bullion, only seven 
realized sufficient over working expenses to warrant them in distributing the 
surplus to' the stockholders in the form of dividends. These dividends show the 
net profits of the seven mines for the year 1866 to be the following percentage 
of the gross yield. Gould and Curry 15.5, Savage 20, Hale and Norcross 29,, 
Imperial 19, Empire 6.5, Yellow Jacket 9, and Crown Point 17. 

The first six months of 1867 show a very marked improvement on 1866; for- 
there is not only an actual decrease in the amount of assessments levied, but an 
increase in the number of dividend-paying mines, a very great advance on the' 
production of bullion, and a really gratifying improvement in the percentage of 
profit on the gross operations. 

From the tables it will be seen that during this period dividends were dis- 
tributed to the amount of 81,968,200, from which deduct the assessments of 
$380,280, and there remains $1,587,920 as the net profit on $7,064,653, or about 
22 per cent., against five per cent, for the year 1866. This result is due to many 
causes, among which may be mentioned freedom from litigation, final settlement 
of conflicting interests, reduced cost of milling, and small expenditures for neces- 
sary outside improvements. In 1866 the latter item was unusually heavy. To- 
such causes as these may we look for the improved financial condition of mining ■ 
interests on the Comstock lode. 

The actual profits on the capital invested in our mines is a difficult question, 
to approach, surrounded as it is by so many rmcertain and fluctuating conditions,. 
24 



r.70 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



and lias prol)alily been spoken of in the preliminary report, as fully as tlie 
information at command will allow. 

The San Francisco Bulletin gives the following figures showing the aggregate 
gain in the market value of 15 of onr leading mines during the past year : 



Company. 



July 1, 1866. 



January 1, 1807. 



July 1, 1867. 



Alpha 

Belcher 

Bullion 

ChoUar-Potosi... 

Confidence 

Crown Point 

Empire Mill 

Gould & Curry.. 
Hale Sc Norcross 

Imperial 

Ophir 

Overman 

Savage 

Sierra Nevada. . 
Yellow Jacket... 

Total 



fi249, 600 
]7x!,640 
1«,5II0 
510, 400 

99, 840 
070, 000 
168. 000 
840, 000 
600, 000 
412, 000 
308, 000 

76, 800 

720, 000 

6,000 

834, 000 



5, 739, 780 



$150, 000 

137, 280 

72, 500 

585, 200 

96, 080 

750, 000 

240, 000 

804, 000 

1, 000, 000 

528, 000 

198,800 

64, 000 

1, 672, 000 

9, 000 

1,488,000 



7, 794, 860 



$493, 200 

457, 600 

82, 500 

1, 260, COO 

99, 840 

1, 086, 000 

224, 400 

846, 000 

1,240,000 

1, 040, 000 

532, 000 

736, 000 

3, 640, 000 

25, 500 

1, 920, 000 



13, 683, 040 



Using the valuation for July 1, 18G7, the dividends paid during the first six 
months of 1867 (deducting assessments) would show a profit on the gross opera- 
tions at the rate of rather more than 23 per cent, per annum for this period. The 
majority of our mining stocks are held, however, for purely speculative purposes, 
and fluctuate in value so greatly and incessantly that such a calculation is of 
little value, most stockholders depending for their profits on sudden rises in the 
value of their property, caused by favorable developments or skilful '"manipula- 
tion," rather than on the dividends paid out of the product of the mines. These 
have been looked upon too much in the light of means by which to "bull" stocks, 
and too little thought has been bestowed by stockholders on the means by which 
they have been obtained. 

Instances are not wanting where they have been paid out of borrowed capital, 
and in many cases they have been made only by working the mine in a ruinous 
manner. Many thousand tons of rock have been worked during the past year, 
which ought never to have been taken from the mines until such time as it could 
be worked more cheaply than at present. Had the stockholders of tlic mining 
companies looked to the actual profits of mining enterprises for their remuneration, 
they would have extended to railroad matters a helping hand, and could have 
been realizing to-day on low-grade ores a profit of $10 or 612 per ton, instead 
of $4 or $5. The fear of temporaril}^ reducing the value of their mining stocks 
by granting such assistance has always stood in the way. The absolute neces- 
sity, however,- of better modes of transportation has at length been realized, and 
before the expiration of another year we shall have the means of greatly reducing 
the cost of mining and milling operations at our command, and so increasing the 
, amount of our legitimate profits. 

The Costs and Losses in Silver Mining. — There are few facts connected 
with the development of the mineral resources of the country that deserve more 
iimmediate attention than the costs and losses which attend gold and silver 
mining. 

The following tables, compiled with the greatest care, exhibit details connected 
With the subject of silver mining in a form more convenient for reference than 
an elaborately written treatise. The accounts of the mine named have been 
selected for compiling these tables because they were more convenient and correct 
than any others at our command, and because this mine affords a fair sample of a 
well-nianag;ed enterprise iu Nevada. 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



371 



Similar tables liave not been prepared for gold mining, because the books of 
no gold mining company afford the necessary data for their compilation. 

Table No. ] is a complete balance sheet of this -company's operations for six 
months, exhibiting every detail of its expenditure foY that period, di\'ided under 
appropriate heads. This table explains the numerous expenses attending silver 
mining, the excessive cost of material and labor, and the large proportion of 
non-productive work necessary to be done in developing a mine. 

Table No. 2 shows the proportions of the precious metals saved and lost ; 
gives the names of the various roills at which the ore was worked. This por- 
tion of the subject is very suggestive, as exhibiting the fact that some of these 
mills return a larger per cent, of metal than others. This table also exhibits 
the varying proportions of gold and silver in the bullion saved by the various 
mills, which appear to be influenced hj the processes used for its extraction. 
This important feature in the table would have been more valuable had the books 
of the company shown the depths and localities from whence the ore reduced 
had been extracted. 

It is suggestive also to mark that the loss of metal, according to assay, foots 
lip S471,155 17, while the total quantity saved onlv amounts to ^816,979 62, 
out of $1,288,132 79. Of 32 lots sent to mill, only two retiuned over 70 per 
cent, of the fire assay value ; this, too, in one of the best managed companies, 
and when the mills are boasting of the improvements in their machinery and 
processes. "Wliat must have been the waste during the early days of silver 
mining, before the present incomjdete experience had been attained "? 

That the present enormous waste of the precious metals by custom and com- 
pany's mills might be avoided, is clearly demonstrated by the success of the 
companies which re-work the tailings thro\\ii away by these mills. In the vicinity 
of Vu-ginia City there are several miles of flumes, all lined with blankets, Avhicli 
requu'e hundi'eds of men to change every few hom's. The tailings thus collected 
yield a larger profit, according to the cost of their production, than the ores 
worked in the mills. Nearly one-third of the l)ullion shipped from Storey county, 
Nevada, is obtained from the waste of the mills collected in these flumes. 

Table No. 3 shows the total product of this mine for a year; exhibits the per- 
contum of metal to the ore ; the costs of production and reduction. It is hoped 
these tables Avill be carefully studied, as they contain much valuable information 
conveniently aiTanged for reference. 

TABLE No. 1. 

Detailed statement of the cost of production of 29,404i^§^ tons of ore during 
the year ending March 1, 1867, hy the Hale and Norcross Silver Mining 
Company of Nevada. 



MANAGERIAL. 

SALARIES. 

Officers : 

Superintendent $4,753 28 

Clerk 2,277 48 



Total 7,030 76 



OfSce expenses: 

Telegrams 

Newspapers 

Petty cash 

Papering 

Repairing clock.. 
Express charges . 
Miscellaneous 



$52 80 


15 50 


16 25 


19 80 


10 00 


25 70 


3 50 



Total. 



Materials oonBumed : 
5-J cords of wood. 
2 brooms 



$74 75 
2 00 



SALARIES — Continued. 

Materials consumed : 

Stationery 



$434 60 



Total 

Team expenses : 

Ilorse-hire , 

Hay and grain 

Horse shoeing 

Repairing buggy.. 

Total , 

Personal property: 
Office furuitui'e. .. 

1 stove 

18 towels 

1 banner 

1 horse 

1 buggy and robes 

2 horse blankets . . 



511 35 



$120 00 

229 90 

26 75 

25 00 



401 65 



$172 69 

12 25 

12 00 

$120 00 

350 00 

560 00 

17 00 



Total 

Total managerial. 



1, 243 94 
$9, 331 25 



372 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Detailed statement of the cost of j^roduction, ^c. — Continued. 



SUMMARY. 

Salaries 

Office expenses 

Materials ■ 

Team expenses 

Personal property 

Total 

HOISTING. 

HOISTING DEPARTMENT. 

Materials consumed : 

2,665 pounds tallow 

44 pounds machine oil 

36 pounds sulphur 

60 pounds spun yarn 

133 pounds white lead 

98 yards duck ■ 

It) brooms 

Rope and freight 

Hardware 

Total ■ 

Lights : 

300 gallons coal oil 

13 dozen chimneys 

12 reflectors 

17 dozen wicks 

8 gross matches 

Total 

Cars, cages, &c. : 

1,828 pounds iron for cars 

247 pounds nuts 

653 bolts 

52 gross screws 

3,303 pounds iron for cages 

811 pounds steel for cages 

1,020 bushels charcoal 

2,046 pounds stone coal 

61 pounds borax 

Total 

Personal property : 

9 yards matting 

15 lamps 

24 fire-buckets 

1 clock 

1 set stocks and dies 

Total 

Labor : 

Brakeman, l,415i days 

Blacksmith, 665 days 

Carman, 730} days 

Pitman, 1,078;} days 

Total -■ 

Outside works : 

7, 500 feet timber 

17 shovels 

12 pick handles 

2 sledges 

Laborers, 585i days 

Total 

Total hoisting department — 



$7, 030 76 


143 55 


511 35 


401 65 


1, 243 94 


9, 331 25 


$;'S6 78 


11 00 


18 00 


24 00 


35 25 


131 35 


20 00 


2, 053 69 


1,119 00 


3, 707 07 


$366 75 


63 29 


48 87 


14 26 


19 40 


512 57 


$227 50 


60 68 


187 76 


138 27 


4G2 42 


150 33 


336 60 


132 11 


27 80 


1, 723 47 


$13 50 


86 00 


17 00 


25 00 


15 00 


156 50 




$6, 186 00 


. 2,810 00 


. 3, 176 00 


. 4, 314 00 


. 16, 486 00 


$210 00 


34 00 


5 50 


$10 09 


. 2, 342 83 




. 2, 602 33 




. $25, 187 94 



ENGINE DEPARTMENT. 

Materials consumed: 

l,916i cords wood $26,770 16 

93 gallons lard oil 295 95 

103 pounds rubber packing 179 13 

31 pounds hemp packing ^ ^J "5 

31 6 pounds soap and soda 55 95 

38 gallons oil and turps 8 25 

6 pounds sponges 20 73 

1 gallon varnish 8 03 

Sundries 3 00 

Total -■ 27, 355 92 

Auxiliary : 

Water, 1 year $2, 767 50 

Hardware 701 03 

171files HV 00 

Total 3, 585 53 

Pump : 

Foundry bill, pump, &c $1, 565 96 

77 feet pipe 462 00 

362.V pounds pump leather 130 87 

2hides 8 CO 

Total 2,166 83 

Repairs : 

Mason work $101 05 

Machine work 940 63 

Freight 233 30 

Foundry bill 1,437 25 

Boilerwork 862 80 

Total 3,580 03 

Labor : 

Engineers, 750} days $4, 673 CO 

Wood passer, 365 davs 1, 460 00 

Pumpman, 365 days 2, 190 00 

Total 8,323 00 



SUMMARY. 

Hoisting department: 

Materials consumed $3, 707 07 

Lights 512 57 

Cars, cages, &c 1,723 47 

Personal property 1 56 50 

Labor 10,486 00 

Outside works 2, 602 33 

Total 25,187 94 



Engine department : 

Materials consumed $27, 355 92 

Auxiliary expenses 3, 585 53 

Pump - 2,166 83 

Repairs 3, 580 03 

Labor 8, 323 00 

Total - 45,011 31 

Total hoisting 70,199 25 



WEST. OF^THE i ROCKY > MOUNTAINS. 
Detailed statement of the cost of production, ^c. — Continued. 



373 



MiNixa. 

PROSPECTING AND DEAD WORK. 



Prospecting. 


Materials consumed. 


Labor. 






Location. 


Feet 


run. 


Timber. 


Lagging. 


Miners. 


Carpenters. 




Name of drift. 





to 

n 


fe 


a 
o 

3 


PM 


S 

< 




a 
s 
o 

a 

< 


a 



o 

a 
< 




400 foot 


450 
865 


'""ii 

""261 


10, 770 

20, 760 

5.060 


$368 45 
726 60 
177 10 


1,257 

2, 422 
591 

3,920 
728 
352 

1,050 


$251 40 
484 40 
118 20 
784 00 
145 60 
62 20 
210 00 






21 
41 
10 
94 
12 
85 
18 


$105 00 
205 00 

50 00 
470 00 

60 00 
425 00 

90 00 






1, 038 
252 

1, 152 

312 

420 

30 


$4, 1.53 CO 
1, 008 00 
4, 608 00 
1, 248 00 
1, 680 00 
120 00 




Do 




70C foot 


980 


47,0401,646 40 

6, 265 219 27 

37. .500 1, 312 50 

■ 9, 000 315 00 




Do 






125 




780 foot 


378 










Totals 


2,798 


472 


136, 395 4 765 32 


10, 320 


2, 055 80 


3,204 


12,816 oo' 281 


1, 405 00 


,. 


042 12 















DEAD WORK. 





Materials consumed. 


Labor. 






Timber. 


Lagging. 1 Miners. 


Carpenters. 




Charactei". 


Location. 


fcj 


a 
o 

a 
< 


Pieces. 
Amount. 





a 
o 

a 
< 


1 


1" 
o 

a 
< 


1 
o 


Retimbering 


Vein 

700 foot ... 

Incline 

535 foot . . . 


10, oco 
5,000 
6,200 
3,600 


$350 00 
175 00 
217 00 


1,170 
830 


$234 00 125 
166 00 sri 


$.500 00 

212 00 

432 00 

200 00 

1,920 00 


26 


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$156 00 
400 00 


Do 




108 
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480 


.... 






Do 


126 00 






668 00 












3 264 00 


















Totals 


24, 800 


868 00 2 onnl 400 00 rk; 


3, 264 00 


26 


156 00 



















PROSPECTING— ADDITIONAL EXPENSES. 

Materials consumed : 

268 boxes candles $1, 474 00 

87 gallons lubricating oil 189 20 

1,070 bushels charcoal 353 26 

8 kegs powder 49 00 

875 feet fuze 25 50 

5 sets car wheels 162 50 

186 pick handles 116 25 

36 sledge handles 18 00 

Total 2,387 71 

Tools : 

57 shovels $114 00 

9sledges 45 00 

29picks,old 14 00 

280 pounds steel for picks 80 00 

Total 253 00 

Labor : 

Carmen, 981 days $3,924 00 

Blacksmiths, 285 days 1, 710 00 

Total 5,634 00 

Auxiliary : 

3ca8k8 $10 50 

12 rubber coats 108 00 

Ice 131 90 

Total 250 40 



PROSPECTING— Continued. 



Contracts : 



Contractor. 



Location. 



E. D. Owens.. 
E. D. Owens.. 

T.Cassius 

E. D. Owens.. 



Total. 



400 feet level. 
700 feet level. 
780 feet level. 
780 feet level. 



Feet 
run. 



430 
40 
20 

371 



Amount. 



$2, 952 00 

192 00 

140 00 

2, 230 00 



5, 514 00 



Summary of prospecting : 

Miners, 3,204 days 

Caroenters, 281 days.. 

Carmftn, 981 days 

Blacksmiths, 285 days . 
Timber, 136,395 feet .. 
Lagging, 10,320 pieces- 
Additional materials... 
Additional tools, &c... 
Additional, auxiliary. . 



$12, 816 00 
1,405 00 

3, 924 00 
1,710 00 

4, 765 32 
2, 055 80 
2, 387 71 

25 COO 
J.tC40 



Total 29,567 23 



Summary of dead work : 

Miners, 816 days 

Carpenters, 26 days . . 
Timber, 24,800 feet .. 
Lagging, 2,000 pieces. 



Total. 



$.3, 264 00 
156 00 
868 00 
400 00 

4, 688 00 



374 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Detailed statement of the cost of jjroduction, Sfc. — Continued. 



PROSPECTING— Continued. 



Contracts : 

861 feet running $5, 514 00 



Total prospecting and dead work. $30,769 23 



EXTRACTING ORES. 

Blaterials consumed : 

511.813 feet timber $14,330 76 

53C boxes candles 2,969 87 

62iliegsnaila 908 92 

81 gallons lubricating oil 179 60 

1,121 bushels charcoal 398 25 

5,820 pounds iron tacks 727 50 

4, 600 pounds turntable 529 00 

3, 113i pounds cars 367 15 

40 gross screws 90 00 

10 sets car wheels 300 00 

2 sets incline wheels 130 CO 

7 brooms 7 00 

Total 20,938 05 

Tools, &c.: 

115shovels $175 30 

]6sledges 91 13 

16axes 33 50 

19 saws 75 75 

16hoes 16 21 

7 wheelbarrows 62 50 

454 tool handles 276 50 

470 pounds steel for picks 120 00 

Total 850 89 

Labor : 

lliners, 14,938 J days $59, 852 00 

Head miners, 614 days 3, 625 50 

Carmen, 1,963 days 7,852 00 

Carpenters, 838 days 4, 463 50 

Blacksmiths, 326 days 1,357 00 

Foreman, 365 days 2,229 00 

Total 79,379 00 

Summary extracthig ore : 

Materials $20,938 05 

Tools 850 89 

Labor 79,379 00 

Total 101,167 94 

Mining recapitulation : 

Extracting ore $101,167 94 

Prospecting 29,567 23 

Contracts 5,514 00 

Dead work 4, 688 00 

Total 140,937 17 

IMPROVEMENTS. 

FAIR SHAFT. 
Real estate : 

16 lots and expenses $1,970 50 

1 stable 70 00 

1 tract and expenses 2, 258 50 

Closing F street ICO 00 

Moving dwelling 85 CO 

Total 4,484 00 

Materials consumed : 

127,015 feet timber $3,806 46 

15Jkegsnails 208 50 

11 gross screws 31 55 

1 cord wood 14 00 

1 box candles 5 50 

112 bushels charcoal 40 32 

2,^11 pounds iron 327 90 

2()U pounds nuts, <fcc 47 60 

3kegspowder 21 00 

SOOfeetfuse 8 50 



FAIR SHAFT — Continued. 

Materials consumed: 

1 gallon boiled oil $2 50 

1 quire emery paper 1 50 

1,750 bricks, &c 42 00 

43i pounds packing 48 OG 

30 pounds white lead 7 00 

Chalkandline 3 00 

Stationery 23 00 

Total 4,638 .39 

Materials on hand : 

Swindows $44 CO 

102bolts 39 66 

12 coach screws 3 84 

30toolhandles 15 53 

20 feet belting 19 23 

3 brooms 3 00 

7 pairs hinges 13 15 

8 locks and latches 8 50 

Rope 947 73 

482 pieces pipe and joints 189 88 

1 iron tuyere 8 50 

Total 1,293 31 

Engine adjuncts : 

2reels $258 00 

1 pump 135 00 

Boxes, collars, &c 59 70 

1 valve : 9 00 

6 flanges, &c 7 25 

8cocks 32 00 

1 steam stop 3 50 

1 oil cup 10 00 

Total 534 45 

Labor : 

Foreman, 36 days $216 00 

Machinist, 16i days 99 00 

Masons, 6 days 34 50 

Blacksmiths, 54 days 272 00 

Carpenters, 264i days 1,330 75 

Miners, 82 days .328 00 

Laborers, 3671 days 1,471 00 

Total 3,751 25 

Contractor $.300 00 

Materials used : 

1 grindstone $37 12 

1 shaft hook 30 00 

1 set bellows, <fcc 100 00 

7 wheelbarrows 102 00 

2 sots car wheels 60 00 

1 hoisting cask 8 00 

1 can 1 25 

3 lanterns 6 50 

14 pieces furniture 60 25 

Total 405 12 

Tools, &c.: 

20shovels $40 00 

33 picks 122 50 

4 sledges 17 00 

4 axes lO 25 

14 durable tools 53 88 

2 saws 11 25 

25files 17 75 

1 paint brush 2 50 

53 assorted brushes 20 00 

186 pounds steel 46 50 

Total 341 63 

Incidental expenses : 

Hauling $107 50 

Advertising 4 00 

Total Ill 50 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 



375 



Detailed statement of the cost oj" j^roduction, Sifc. — Contiuued. 



FAIR SHAFT— Continued. 

Summary : 

Real estate $4,484 00 

Slat erials consumed 4,638 31) 

Materials on hand 1,293 31 

Engine adjuncts 534 35 

Labor 3, 751 35 

Contractor 300 00 

Materials used 405 12 

Toola,&c 341 63 

Incidental expenses 1 1 1 50 

Total 15,859 65 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Real estate : 

Superintendent's residence $1 , 050 00 

Bepairing ditto 271 04 

Total 1,321 04 

Ore house : 

22,700 feet timber $704 50 

19,000 shingles 167 00 

ekegsnails 84 00 

830 pounds iron chutes 91 30 

Total 1,136 80 

Labor : == = 

Carpenters, 45 days $225 00 

Blacksmiths, 19 days 114 00 

Laborers, 20 days 80 00 

Total 419 00 

Scales : ==:=== 

6,000 feet timber $108 00 

1,240 pounds iron 130 60 

i of a keg spikes 4 00 

2 gross screws 20 00 

24 coach screws 7 20 

Total 329 80 

Labor : -= 

Carpenters, 15 days $75 00 

Blacksmiths, 8 days 'ii 00 

Laborers, 24 days 96 00 

Total 219 00 

Expenses : 

Freight $71 01 

Sundries 20 GO 

Total , 91 01 

Summary of improvements : 

Fair shaft $15,859 65 

Eeal estate 1,321 04 

Ore house 1, 555 80 

Scales 639 81 

Total improvements 19, 376 30 

RELATIVE. 

CLASSIFICATION. 
Weighing : 

Scale cards $99 00 

Regulating scales 7 50 

Cash paid for weighing 3 36 

Overman, 396 days 1, 608 00 

Macadamizing 96 00 

Total 1,813 86 

By receipt for weighing ... 47 28 

Sampling : 

10 cords wood 130 00 

6 yards oil cloth 9 00 

Twine, paper, &e 34 25 

24 sample bags 5 00 



$1, 766 08 



CLASSIFICATION Continued. 

Tools : 

3 shovels $6 00 

2 brooms 2 00 

3 brushes 4 25 

Incidental expenses : 

Assaying 2, 306 00 

— ^ $3, 490 ."iO 

Total weighing and sampling 4, 262 58 

Auxiliary expenses : 

Surveying $500 00 

Hauling 134 25 

Premium on coin 2,012 01 

Assaying bullion $8, 827 69 

Lessclips 605 90 

8,221 79 

Total 10,868 05 

Taxes : 

Federal buUion $7,23'j 83 

State bullion 2, 189 70 

City bullion 203 20 

State and county property 1, 023 02 

City property 346 43 

Federal license 7 50 

Total 11,010 28 

Contingent expenses : 

Law expenses, fees, &c $230 00 

Maps .55 00 

Miscellaneous '. 51 80 

Subscriptions 250 00 

Medical attendance 133 00 

Gratuity to Mrs. Farge 387 00 

Brandy and whiskey 53 50 

Total 1,180 30 

Summary : 

Weighing and sampling $4,262 58 

Auxiliary expenses 10, 868 05 

Taxes 11,010 23 

Contingent expenses 1, 180 30 

Total relative expenses 27, 321 21 



TOTALS. 



RECAPITULATION. 



Managerial cost $9,331 25 

Hoisting expenses : 

Hoisting department $25, 187 94 

Engine 45,011 31 

70, 199 25 

Mining expenses : 

Prospecting 29,081 23 

Contracts 5,514 00 

34 595 23 

Dead work 4,688 00 

Extracting ore 101, 167 94 

105, 855 94 

Improvements — cost : 

Fair shaft, total expenses.. 15,859 65 

Real estate purchased 1, 321 04 

Ore house and scales 2, 195 61 

19, 376 30 

Relative expenses : 

Weighing and sampling 4,262 58 

Auxiliary expenses 10, 808 05 

Taxes 11,010 28 

Contingent expenses 1, 180 30 

27, 321 21 

Total cost of production 2()6, 679 18 



37G 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



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380 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

BuLLio^^ Peoduct of the Comstock Lode. — The foregoing- taljles^from tlie 
Commerciiil Herald and Market Review, show the bullion i^roduct of the lead- 
ing claims on the Comstock lode during the year 1SG7, as compared with 1866. 
The bullion product of the Yellow Jacket claim has been estimated for the last 
six months of 1SG7. The total product of the Comstock lode for the year ending 
December 31, 1867, is estimated by the most reliable authorities at $17,500,000. 
It is estimated that other districts in Nevada have yielded during the same period 
$2,500,000, making the total product of Nevada for the calendar year 1867, 
$20,000,000. The average percentage of gold and silver is shown in table 2, on 
the workings of the Hale and Norcross, being about 06 per cent, silver, and 34 
per cent. gold. In the outside districts the proportion of gold is considerably less. 

Assay Offices, Sec. — There are four assay offices in Virginia and three in 
Gold flill ; some few of the mining companies assay their own bullion. 

The amalgam is usually retorted at the mill and delivered to the assayer in 
the form of '' crude bullion." After melting and refining it is assayed by the 
ordinary process of cupellation with lead, the accuracy of these assays being 
checked from time to time by the humid method. 

The charge on bullion for transportation to San Francisco is one per cent., and 
on coin from San Francisco to Virginia one and one-eighth per cent., the latter 
being somewhat the highest, to cover the extra risks of loss and robbery. 



STAGE ROUTES CENTRING AT OR PASSING THROUGH VIRGINIA CITY. 

Route No. 1. Virginia to Sacramento, via the Central Pacific Bailroad, with 
which it connects at Cisco depot. Two coaches daily each way. Fare, including 
railroad charges, from Virginia to Sacramento, $20 ; from Sacramento to Vir- 
ginia, $25. This route crosses the SieiTa by the Donncr Lake Pass, the one 
selected by the C. P. R. R. The fall of snow during the winter is very heavy, 
and sleighs run from the terminus of the railroad to within 30 miles of Virginia. 
During the winter of 1866 and 1867 they ran for a short time into Virginia 
v.'ithout changing. 

Route No. 2. Virginia to Sacramento, via Placcrritic and the Sacramento 
VaJteij railroad, passing through Gold Hill, Silver City, Empire, Carson, and 
Genoa, connecting with the railroad at Shingle Springs. One coach daily each 
way. This route crosses the Sierras at the south end of Lake Tahoe. Snow 
on the summits of the mountains heavy. During the severest portion of the 
winter sleighs run from the summit nearly down to Carson valle^^ Before the 
construction of the Central Pacific railroad, nearly the entire freighting business 
between California and Nevada passed over this route. At the present time the 
Donner Lake road takes probably three-fourths, and will gradually secure the 
balance as the railroad approaches Virginia. 

Route No. 3. Overland route, from the Atlantic to the Pacific States, passes 
through Virginia, one coach arriving and departing daily. Passengers com- 
plete the journey to Sacramento by either of the two previously mentioned routes. 
Fare to Austin from Virginia, about $15 ; to Salt Lake, $70 ; to the eastern rail- 
road terminus, $100. 

Route No. 4. Virginia to Carson, passing through Gold Hill, Silver City, 
and Emi")ire, one coach each Avay dail}'. 

Route No. 5. Virginia to Bagton, passing through Gold Hil and Silver City, 
one coach each way daily. 

Route No. 6. Virginia to Washoe and Ophir, one coach each way daily. 

Route No. 7. Virginia to Idaho Territory, passing through the Humboldt 
county settlements, one coach each way every other day. This line connects 
Vvith the stages on route No. 1, at Huntei"'s crossing of the Truckee river, about 
24 miles from Virofinia. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. B81 

Route Xo. 8. FastfrekjM, via Donncr Lalce and the C. P. J?. JR., one coach 
each way daily. Brings perishable freight to Nevada, carrying passengers only 
from Nevada to California, the amount of return freight being small. 

Route No. 9. Fast freight, via Flacerville and the Sacramento VaUe>/ railroad, 
details the same as route No. 8. 

Route No. 10. Fast freight to BcJmont, in Central Nevada, via Austin, one 
coach each way weekly. Carries freight and passengers both ways. 

Route No. 11. Fast freight to Belmont, one coach twice a week each way, 
carrying passengers and freight. 



STAGE LINES CENTRING AT CARSON CITY. 

Route No. 1. Carson to Dayton, via Fmjnre, one coach each way daily. 

Route No. 2. Carson to Washoe, via Franhtotvn and Ophir, one coach each 
Avay daily. 

ilouTE No. 3. Carson to Aurora, via Genoa and Wellington's station, one 
coach each way every other day. The mines at Piuegrove lie a few miles to the 
east of Wellington's. At Genoa this route connects with stages for Silver 
mountain and ]\Iarkleeville, and at Aurora with stages for Blind Springs, Fort 
Independence, Kearsarge, and Owen's River valley. 

The majority of these routes have been established for several years, and, as 
will be seen by tCe following table of postal routes, usually receive government 
aid, in the form of subsidies for carrying the United States mails. But few of 
them, especially those operating between distant settlements and through thinly 
settled countries, could exist without such assistance. Though suffering less 
severely from Indian depredations on this side of the Rocky mountains than on 
the eastern slope, these lines of travel, in some instances, absolutely require the 
presence of soldiers to make them safe modes of communication. 



SECTION XVIII. 
VIRGINIA AND ADJACENT DISTRICTS— FACILITIES FOR OBTAINING FUEL 

Coal. — No coal deposits which are likely to prove of permanent value have 
been found in the neighborhood of Vii'giiiii^- Considerable prospecting has been 
done in the neighborhood of El Dorado caSon, a few miles from Dayton, where 
inferior lignite is found associated with triassic (?) limestones and shales, and at 
Crystal Peak, on the Truckce river, near the California State line, where lustrous 
black lignite is foinid in small qvmntities, in recent geological deposits. In the 
PalmjTa mountains, a few miles from Como, a small vein of lignite is also found, 
but none of these localities can be relied upon for a supply sufficient to warrant 
an outlay of capital. IMany other points have been located as coal lands, Avith- 
out any foundation whatever, the deceptive appearance of some metamorphic or 
igneous rocks having misled persons ignorant of geological formations into costly 
and useless expenditure of time and money.* 

The entire district is dependent on wood for fuel. When the mines on the 
Comstock lode were first discovered, the suiTounding mountains were covered 
with a scanty growth of scrubby pines, (known as the piuon or pinenut,) and a 
variety of juniper, generally called cedar. This supply has been entirely exhausted, 
the nearest remaining timber of these kinds coming to the market from the mountains 
east and south of Dayton, and north of Virginia, both localities about 12 miles dis- 
tant from the place of consumption. Even at these points the amount easily acces- 
sible is rapidly diminishing. The rugged character of the mountains compels 

* See article on coal deposits of Nevada, section 2, page 312. 



382 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

the luml)crmeu to pack the Avood on mules, frequently two or three miles to 
places which are accessible to wagons. This and the distance from market 
make the price high, ranging from $14 to $1Q per cord. The piiion is considered 
the most valuable firewood, being a hard, resinous, fine-grained variety, growing 
from 10 to 30 feet in height, and commands about 82 per cord more than the 
cedar. The whole district will ere long be entirely dependent oil the practically 
inexhaustible forests of the Sierra Nevadas. Even now large quantities of fire- 
wood are brought from this source, though the fuel is considered inferior to the 
piiion. There are many mills working ore from the Comstock mines, located at 
the foot of the Sierras, and the teams hauling ore to these points bring return 
loads of firewood or lumber. Large quantities are floated down the Carson river 
yearty, a distance of 60 to 100 hundred miles from the forests at the headwaters 
of the river to Empire Gity, in Eagle valley, and are shipped from that point to 
the mines and mills. The vicinity of Carson, Washoe valley and Galena also 
yield an abundant supply, but a wagon freight of 12 to 18 miles keeps the price 
at about the figures mentioned. 

CoxsTTMPTiojf OF FiEEWooD AXD LuMLEK. — The following table shows 
approximately the daily consumption of firewood in the district : 

Cords. 

By hoisting works on mines 70 

By mills crushing ores 378 

For domestic use 120 

Total .' 5Ga 

The average cost of this firewood will be about $10 per cord or $5,680 per 
day, giving a yearly total of over $2,000,000. Of this sum at least 60 per cent, 
is paid for hauling to the place of consumption. 

The consumption of lumber and mining timbers in the district will reach some- 
where near 25,000,000 feet, (board measure,) of which about 17,900,000 feet are 
used in and around the mines on the Comstock lode. The total annual value 
of this branch of business will not fall far short of $800,000 per annum. 

Other MijjeRxVL Deposits. — The mining district under consideration may 
be called exclusively'- a silver region, its other mineral deposits being relatively 
of small value. 

Gold occurs in small quantities in many of the ravines along the foot lulls of 
the Sierras, and Gold caiion was worked as a placer mine before the discovery 
of silver ; but both of these operations have been discontinued for some years. 

Copper Ores are found in many localities, both east and west of Carson, but 
the difficulty of making copper mining remunerative in Nevada, with the existing 
high rates of labor, transportation, and supplies have prevented their development. 

Iron Ores are aljundant in the mountains southwest of American Flat, and 
about four miles south of Vkginia, but they are unfavorably situated for working, 
and not likely to be of value. 

Lead Ores containing a considerable percentage of silver occur frequently 
in the neighborhood of Galena, in Washoe county. The mines have been opened 
to some extent, passing into the hands of several different parties, who have failed 
to work them profitabl}-, though admirably situated as regards both water power 
for concentration and fuel for smelting. The galena is associated with conside- 
rable quantities of mispickel, which renders cai-eful sorting essential to the pro- 
duction of good marketable lead, but the manner of the association is such that 
no difficulty need arise on this account. 

Plumbago of inferior quality is found extensively in the mountains east of 
the Carson river, a few miles from Empire, but has never ])een utilized. It also 
occurs between Virginia and Washoe, in the Washoe mountains, and at one time 
was used in the manufacture of crucibles. 

Sulphur occurs at the Steamboat Springs, condensed in the earth from the 
rising vapors, but not in any large quantity. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



383 



LiliESTONE of fine quality is plenty in tLe mountains east and south of Virginia. 

Number of Mining Locatioks Claimed akd Opened. — The number of 
mining claims recorded on the books of the mining recorders of Virginia and 
Gold Hill does not fall far short of 5,000. If to these are added other claims 
throughout the district under consideration, the number will not fall far short of 
8,000. When we compare this number with the claims on which work is being 
done at the present time, (probably not more than 50) we begin to realize the 
character of the wild mining fever which raged here from 1860 to 1863. It 
must not be supposed, however, that all claims at present lying untouched are 
worthless. Many of them developed ore, but too low in quality to pay a profit 
at the time they were abandoned. Still all the claims which may at any time 
in the future become valuable will not exceed a few hundred, a vast proportion 
of the 8,000 locations having no foundation whatever, and many of which could 
scarcely be pointed out even by tLe locators themselves. 

COST OF MATERIALS. 

The following table may be taken as a fair illustration. The few articles 
used in the mines not occurring in this 'table are added at the end, the average 
price being derived from the same source : 

Materials consumed at the Gould &f Curry mill during the year ending Novem- 
ber 30, 1866. 



Articles. 



Quantity. 



Cost. 



Average price. 



Wood, cords 

Lumber, feet 

Shingles 

Charcoal, bushels 

Iron, pounds 

Gas pipe, pounds 

Castings, pounds 

Eivets, nuts, &c., pounds 

Steel, pounds 

Copper, pounds 

Babbit metal, pounds 

Kails, pounds 

Zinc, pounds 

Turpentine, gallons 

Belting, pounds 

Packing, pounds 

Rope, pounds 

Hose, pounds 

Sulphate of copper, pounds. 

Salt, pounds 

Lard oil, gallons 

Kerosene oil, gallons 

Linseed oil, gallons 

Quicksilver, flasks 

Cut bolts, pounds 

Screens, pounds 

Candles, pounds 

Axes and handles 

Picks 

Shovels 

Feed, sacks 

Hay, bales 

Axle grease 

Copper rivets, pounds 

Tallow, pounds 

Alcohol, gallons 

Brooms 

Oakum, pounds 

Sledge handles 

Lamp chimneys 

Hoes 

White and red lead 

Blankets 

Leather 

S tone coal 

Water 

Sundries 

Mining timbers 

Hay 

Barley 



11, 

172, 

21, 

5, 

12, 

395, 



345, 

1, 



'142 
857 
5^0 
848 
639 
450 
099 
853 
253 
178 
262 
832 
172 

25 
888 
494 
393 
136 
353 
068 
360 
S85 

40 
675 
923 
743 
980 

71 

42 
239 
487 
196 
116 
280 
863 

15 
189 
126 
157 
531 

76 
241 

43 
575 
751 



$168, 830 00 

3,725 00 

185 00 

1, 659 00 

1, 698 00 
258 00 

33, 880 00 

175 00 

315 00 

142 00 

120 00 

417 00 

42 00 

72 00 

2, 192 00 

497 00 

06 00 

97 00 

17, 588 00 

10, 943 00 

2, 487 CO 

1, 615 00 

99 00 

35, 013 00 

214 00 

633 CO 

819 00 

67 00 

20 00 

231 00 

2, 087 00 
1, 120 00 

58 00 

280 00 

1,361 00 

60 00 
147 00 

46 00 

77 00 
174 00 

71 00 
242 00 
347 00 
246 00 
714 00 
6,835 00 

3, 833 00 



(per M) 



$14 72 
42 40 
8 60 
28 
13* 
57i 
8* 
20 
25 
80 
46 
11 
25 
3 00 



1 00 

25 



20 

3 

1 83 

1 64 

2 47 
51 89 

23 
1 to .75 



50 
1 39 



(per ton) 



50 

1 00 
12^ 

4 00 
77 
32 
50 
32 

1 00 
20 

8 00 
42* 
.150 00 



; to $30 per M feet. 
$37 50 per ton. 
4* per pound. 



384 



EESOUKCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



PoPULATIO^^ or Towxs. — In tlic absence of census tables it is extremely 
difiicult to give accurate inlbnnation on this head. The population of the difier- 
ent towns may be estimated at about the following figm"es, which will probably 
be found rather over than under the mark : 

Virginia, Gold Hill and Silver City 12, 000 

Carson 1, 000 

Washoe 1, 000 

Dayton 1, 000 

Empire 500 

The entire district under consideration 20, 000 

Of this number about 1,500 are employed directly in the mines, and al)Out 
1,200 in the various mills, the remainder, whether engaged in farming, lumljer- 
ing or in trade, being more or less dependent on the mining interest for their 
support. Were it not for its mining attractions, the district would in all proba- 
bility have remained the desert it was in 1859, before the discovery of the Com- 
stock. Previous to that time it supported only a scanty population, who made 
a livelihood out of the annual emigration over the plains. 

Price of Labor. — Miners receive from $3 50 to $4 per diem, and black- 
smiths, carpenters, brakemen and engineers, from $5 to $8. Mill hands earn 
from $3 to $5, according to the responsibility of their positions. 

]\[oDE AXD Cost of Living. — The following list of prices current for articles 
of domestic consumption is taken from the daily papers: 



Flour, per 100 pounds $« 00 a^Q 50 

California bacon 25 a 27 

California bams 28 « 30 

Eastern bacon 20 a 25 

Eastern bams 20 « 25 

Butter, rancb 42ia 50 

Butter, eastern firkin 40 a 50 

Green coflee, per pound, Kio. . . 35 
Green coft'ee, per pound, Java. 40 
Coffee, Cbartres, I lb. papers.. 50 
Cbecse, new California, per lb.. 25 a 37i 

Candles, per pound 30 a 37| 

Corn-meal, per pound 10 

Lard, California, per pound.. . 25 a 30 

Crusbed sugar, per pound i9 a 25 

Brown sugar, per pound 16 a 20 

Powdered sugar, per pound. .. 25 

Golden sirup, per gallon 1 50 a 2 00 

Tea, black, Comet, per pound. 1 12 a 1 35 
Tea, green. Comet, per pound. 1 25 a 1 50 
Tea, Japanese, per pound.. .. 1 00 a 1 25 

Plug tobacco 85 a I 50 

Salt, 10-pound sacks 75 

Salt, 5-pound sacks 50 



Salt, 3-pound sacks §0 25 

Wbiskey, Monongabela 5 00 a$6 00 

Wbiskej^ Bourbon 4 00 a 6 00 

Wbiskey, quart bottles 1 25 a 1 50 

Coal oil, per gallon 1 20 a 1 50 

Eggs, per dozen 62^ 

Eggs, per box 50 dozen 50 

Mackerel, per kit 5 00 

Mackerel, per barrel 18 00 a20 00 

Trout, Lake Taboe 20 a 25 

Codfisb, per pound 20 a 25 

Salmon, salt, per pound 20 a 

Salmon, smoked, per pound . 

Salmon, fresb, per pound 

Herrings, fresb, per pound .. 

Herrings, salt, per pound 

Potatoes, per pound 

Potatoes, sweet, per pound .. 

Cabbage, per pound 

Green peas, per pound 12^ 

Asparagus, per pound 20 a 

Onions, per pound 6 a 

Beets, per pound 4 a 

Turnips, per pound 4 a 



20 a 


25 


25 a 


37i 


25 




25 




2ia 


3 


124a 


Ifi 


7 a 


8 



10 



Even in the towns a large proportion of the population board at restaurants 
or hotels, at rates varying from $8 to $12 per week. Many mills are so situated 
that they are compelled to keep a boarding-house for the men employed, in which 
case they are usually paid so much a month including their l)oard. This system 
is the inevitable result of the unsettled disposition of much of our population, 
who, in spite of oft-repeated warnings, are yet ready to believe that every new 
mining camp discovered is better than the one in wdiicli they are located, and 
rush to it accordingly, in the hope of making the ''big strike" which shall bring 
them wealth and comfort in a dajs instead of winning them by the old well-tried 
rule of patient industry and perseverance. There are many signs, however, of 
improvement in this respect ; but the number of those who have come to look 
upon Nevada as a permanent home are ver}- few, indeed. 

House servants receive from $30 to $40 a month. ]\Iany Chinamen are employed 
in this capacity at about the same wages. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 385 

The great majority of private residences in tli'is district are l)uilt of wood. 

Bexefits or the Pacific Raileoad and its Beanches. — The Central 
Pacific railroad at the nearest point will be about 20 miles distant from Virginia. 
Even were there no railroad connection between the two points, we should yet 
feel the advantage of this great thoroughfare, in more rapid and certain com- 
mimication with the seaboard, and in reduced rates of freight. But its benefits 
are likely to be largely increased by the construction of a line from Virginia to 
a point on the Truckee river, about 26 miles east of the State line. This line 
has been carefully suiweyed, its chief features being enumerated in thfj following 
abstract : 

Length of road from the Savage mine in Virginia to the Truckee river and 
Central Pacific railroad, 20 miles. 

Total length of road, 22 miles. 

Total elevation to be ovcixome, 1,996 feet. 

Average grade per mile, 115j^^*q feet. 

Heaviest grade per mile, ISO feet. 

Minimum curve, radius, 300 feet. 

Percentage of straight line, 65. 

Total estimated cost, including equipment, &c., $1,105,743. 

Total estimated revenue per annum, $1,368,320. 

Probable net profits, 60 per cent, of gross revenue. 

This line follows a hillside grade along the Washoe mountains to a point ] ^ 
miles north of Virginia, where it descends into Long valley, and follows the 
vaters of that valley to the Truckee river. These flow through smooth valleys, 
occasionally interrupted by deep gorges bounded on either side by lofty precipitous 
bluflfs of trachyte or basalt ; but in all cases the bottom of the canon is compara- 
tively smooth, and wide enough to admit of the construction of a good road with- 
out being compelled to adopt a hillside grade, except in one instance, for about 
Ij miles. Owing to these circumstances, a good road can be built for a very 
moderate outlay, though the route lies througli very rough and broken moun- 
tains. 

A preliminary reconnoissance of this route was made early this spring, and the 
detailed location has just been completed with very flattering prospects. The 
importance of tiie earl}^ completion of this road to the mining interest of this dis- 
trict is almost beyond calculation. Its efiects Avill be felt in the reduced price of 
freight on general merchandise, in the reduced cost of firewood and lumber, and 
in the possibility of working ores at present valueless from their too poor quality. 

At the present time about 30,000 tons of general merchandise are brought from 
California to Nevada annually for consumption in this district, at a cost for trans- 
portation of about $1,800,000. Through railroad communication with Sacra- 
mento will result in a saving of upwards of $900,000 per annum, of which about 
10 per cent, or $90,000 may be credited to the Virginia and Truckee railroad. 

The road will also make the pine forests of the Sierra Nevadas easily accessible 
from Virginia, and from this source both lumber and firewood can be supplied to 
Virginia and Gold Hill at a reduction of full}'' 35 per cent, on present rates. The 
following details of the probable business of the road are from the report of the 
chief engineer, J. E. James. The figures show the present actual consumption 
in the localities where the opening of railroad communication with the Truckee 
river and the Central Pacific raikoad would affect their price : 

According to the estimate of parties likely to be well informed, firewood can be delivered 
at the Truckee terminus of the road at $o or $3 CO per cord. They propose to cut this lire- 
wood in the Sierras and float it down the Truckee rivei'. Logs are at present furnished to 
Eastman's saw-mill (only a few miles higher up the river) from this source, showing the plaa 
to be feasible, and furnishing data on which to base an estimate. Supposing, however, that 
these estimates are too low, and that the price at the terminus is $5 per cord, your company 
can supply the entire demand of Virginia, Gold Hill and Silver City at $10 per cord. In 
Virginia and Gold Hill this would be $4 per cord less than ruling rates to large consumers,. 

25 



o86 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TEREITORIFR 

and $6 or $7 less thau is usually paid by private families, and would certainly control tlie 
entire business, shown by the accompanying tables to be as follows : 

For mills as per schedule, daily - 223cords. 

For mines as per schedule, daily 72 

For domestic use GO 

Total - _355 " 

The present price of timber and lumber for mining purposes ranges from $28 to $30 per 
1,000 feet, board measure. 

In the report of the county assessor to the surveyor general of the State, for 18G6, the cost 
of delivering logs and manufacturing them into lumber at Russell & Crowe's mill, at Empire 
City, is given at $12 per 1,000 feet, which is probably not flir from a correct estimate. These 
logs are tioated down the Carson river a distance of from GO to 100 miles, from the forests of 
Alpine county, California. Lumber can be manufactured on the Truckee at rates equally 
favorable, thus enabling your company to place it in the market at a price not exceeding 
$21 per 1,000 feet. The following condensed statement shows nearly the present annual 
consumption : 

Required by mines 17,910,100 feet. 

Required by mills ■ 920,000 || 

Required for other purposes 5, 000, 000 

Total 23, 830, 100 " 

"We have then the following result per annum : 

Savbg on 127,800 cords of wood, at $5 $639, 000 

Saving on 23,800,000 feet lumber, at $7 per 1,000 IGG, GOO 

Saving on 30,000 tons merchandise 00, 000 

895, GOO 

equal to $1 50 on every ton of ore raised from the mines. 
We again quote from the report of the chief engineer : 

The facilities afforded by the Truckee river will doiibtless create an immense business in 
the transportation of low-grade ores to that river for reduction by water-power. Competent 
judges estimate that rock yielding $12 per ton can be reduced with profit both to uiine and 
mill by taking advantage of its capabilities. All persons at all familiar with our mines are 
aware of the vast amount of low-grade ores now standing in the Comstock mines. We 
believe that 1,000 tons of this class of ore would be extracted daily in a short period after the 
completion of the road, but allowing for the gradual growth of the traffic, have based our 
estimate on 500 tons daily for the first year of operations. 

On a basis of 500 tons daily, there would be from this source alone an increase 
on the annual production of bullion as follows : 180,000 tons, averaging $15 
per ton, S2,700,000 or, supposing the quantity to be increased to 1,000 tons, the 
amount would be 65,400,000. 

This bullion can be secured to circulation in no other Avay. 

Neither will the advantages cease at this point. The ability to Vv'ork $15 oxen 
to advantage Av ill immediately enable many mines at present lying idle to resume 
operations, and very materially lessen the annual assessment list. Neither can 
it be doubted that the reduced cost of working will gradually cause the removal 
of other mills to the Truckee. If all the ores Avere Avorked at that point the 
saving to the community Avould amount to upwards of $1,000,000 per annum, 
equal to nearly seven per cent, on the gross yield per annum of the Comstock 
lode. The minimum cost of mining ores has probably been reached ; Ave must, 
therefore, look to improvements in the mode and cost of reduction, as an offset 
to the increased expenditure necessary to deeper mining operations, if we Avould 
Jkeep our net profits at their present position. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 387 

SECTION XIX. 
THE SUTEO TUNNEL. 

One of the most impoi-tant enterprises connected witli the mining interests of 
the Pacific coast is the proposed Sutro tunnel, briefly referred to in prehm- 
inary report. 

The magnitude of the work, its bearing upon the future yiehl of the Tuines 
located upon the Comstock lode, and its probable influence in demonstrating the 
continuity of mineral lodes in depth, in other parts of our territorj^, where the 
conditions may be similar, have been set forth in various reports upon the subject. 

The Mechanics' Institute of San Francisco, a body composed of liighly intel- 
ligent men, some time since appointed a committee to make a report upon the 
proposed tunnel, as being a work beneficial to the mechanical interests of the 
coast. The following extracts are taken from the report, which is quite an elab- 
orate document : 

Yield of Bullion. — These mines have now a worlcl-wide reputation ; the yield of the 
precious metals from the Comstock lode far exceeds that of any other locality. 

The annual produce for the past five yeai's has been in round numbers as follows : 

1862 '. $4,000,000 

1863 12,000,000 

1864 16,000,000 

1865 15,000,000 

1866 16,000,000 

Total produce iu five years $63,000,000 

The total annual production of silver in the world in 1854 is stated by Professor Whitney 
at $47,443,200. The bullion obtained from the Comstock lode in 1866 is, therefore, equal to 
more than one-third in value of all the silver produced in 1854. Mexico, in its most flour- 
ishing days, from 1795 to 1810, produced an annual average of ,f24, 000,000 from several 
thousand mines. After 1810, when the revolution took place, the yield of the mines fell in 
some years to as low a figure as $4,500,000, but the average from 1810 to 1825 shows 
$10,000,000. At the present time the entire product of Mexico does not exceed that of the 
Comstock lode. 

The celebrated mines of Potosi averaged about $4,000,000 per annum for 300 years; those 
on the Veta Madre (mother vein) of Guanajuato about $3,000,000 for an equal period, and 
the mines of the Eeal del Monte Company, on the Biscanya vein in Mexico, over $400,000 
for the last 110 years, or a total of $44,000,000, a less amount than has been obtained from the 
Comstock lode in the last three years. 

Profits of Mining. — The immense yield of bullion from the Comstock lode will lead one 
to suppose that the profits realized by the owners have been proportional to the yield, but 
this has not been the case. 

It is true that the value of bullion obtained by some companies has greatly exceeded the 
current expenses, as, for example, the Gould and Curry ; the net profits of which amount to 
over $3,000,000. But some Oiher companies have expended large sums of money and realized 
little, and some nothing at all. Wo have no accurate figures for the earlier years, but com- 
paring the dividends with the assessments levied, we find that the aggregate produce of the 
mines has been swallowed iip by expenses. In 1865 the dividends paid amount to $ 1 ,900,000, 
and the assessments levied to $1,950,000, or $50,000 more than the dividends. 

In 1866 the dividends paid were $1,794,400; the assessments levied, $1,232,380, Dividends 
over assessments, $o62,020. In the first years of operations on the Comstock lode, the 
expenditures for machinery, which had to be transported from California across the Sierra 
Nevada mountains, for the erection of costly reduction works, and for other permanent 
improvements, together with the extravagant prices paid for reducing ores in a veiy imperfect 
manner, absorbed nearly the whole produce. Latterly, the only increase of expense has been 
in mining operations ; as greater depths Avere reached a largo amount of prospecting or dead 
work had to be done, and additions made to the ptrmping and hoisting machinery, almost 
counterbalancing the reduction in the cost of crushing the ore, of labor, and of freight, and 
we consequently find that the aggregate profits of the mines at the end of the last year bear 
but a small ratio to the production. 

The cost of labor and of reducing ores will gradually diminish from year to year, and on the 
completion of the Central Pacific railroad from Sacramento to the valley of the Truckee river, 
which will certainly be eftected in the year 1 868, the price of transportation from San Francisco 
to the mines will not be more than one-third of the average rates heretofore paid. But we do 
not believe that any reduction of expenses on these items which can be made will be sufScient 
to meet the increased cost of working the mines, after a few years, when greater depths are 



388 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

attaiucc], if the present system of pumping out the -water, and of raising the ore and refuse 
through shafts to the surface, is continued. 

In tlie late report of R. II. Stretch, esq,, State mineralogist of Nevada, we find it stated 
that 47 steam engines are now in operation on the Comstock lode, which answer all the present 
requirements, but every addition to the depth demands additional power, correspondent 
augmentation of capital invested in machinery, and a larger annual demand for fuel. The 
little wood there was originally in the vicinity of Virginia City was long since exhausted ; it 
has now to bo obtained almost exclusively from the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada moun- 
tains, and as the nearer timber is destroyed, it must be hauled a greater distance and at an 
increased price. 

If we take into consideration the cost of machinery, of annual additions and repairs, and 
of consumption of fuel, wages of employes, delays caused by breaking of pumps, expense of 
explorations, obstacles in securing good ventilation and increase of heat with the depth, and 
the financial result of past years, we are forced to the conclusion that the mode now adopted 
of working these mines cannot long be prosecuted with profit to the owners. 

The result of similar operations in other countries, as furnished by Humboldt, Ward, St. 
Clair Duport, and other writers, conveys an instructive lesson to persons interested in min- 
ing enterprises. These authorities agree that mining from the surface must always prove 
suicidal to the interests of the owners when the position of the mines will allow the construc- 
tion of adits or tunnels, which will drain the water, ventilate the mines, and diminish the cost 
of removing the ore and valueless material. 

Humboldt, in his "Assay Politique sur la NouvelleEspagne," published in 1803, inrefer- 
ence to the Veta Madre of Guanajuato, a lode much resembling the Comstock, exclaims : 

" It is, indeed, strange that mines of such richness have no tunnels for draining, when the 
neighboring ravines of Cata and Marfil and the plains of Tumascatio, which are below the 
level of the lowest works of the Valeuciana mine, would seem to invite Ihe miner to com- 
mence works which would serve for drainage, and at the same time afford faciliiiesfor trans- 
porting materials to the smelting and amalgamation works." 

A gentleman of intelligence, whom Humboldt questioned in regard to this want of wisdom, 
replied "that the excavation of a general tunnel would be a work very expensive, and per- 
haps impossible, on account of the want of uvion among the proprietors of the different mines.'''' 

The Valenciana Mine. — Upon this lode is located the celebrated Valeuciana mine, 
which, according to Humboldt, was first opened by Obregon, a young Spaniard, who, with- 
out means, commenced prospecting on a part of the vein which up to that time had beeu 
unproductive. 

After undergoing many privations, he at last struck an immense body of ore, from which 
alone was extracted, from the 1st of January, 1787, to the lllh of June, 1791, the sum of 
^14,7G4,492 of silver, out of 134,988 tons of ore. Seiior Obregon, afterwards known as the 
Count of Valenciana, became the richest man in Mexico, and probably in the world, at that 
time. As greater depths were attained, the increase of expense became such that the mine 
ceased to yield a profit, and before the breaking out of the revolution in 1810, it was allowed 
to fill with earth and water. In 1825, this mine, together with many others, fell into the 
hands of a wealthy English company, who expended 21 months in draining it of water, but 
the expenses of nuning and pumping were so great that after some years the lower works 
were again abandoned. 

The English Real del Monte Company. — The most remarkable and disastrous expe- 
rience made by any foreign company in Mexico has been that of the English Real del Monte 
Company. 

They became, in the year 1823, the possessors of the Biscanya and several other veins, the 
former having beeu v.orked for many years, and having yielded large amounts of silver, 
prior to 1749. At that date au intelligent miner, named Bustamente, concluded to run an 
adit, or tunnel, in order to cftect their drainage. He labored long and patiently, and was 
supplied with means by Don Pedro Terreros, who continued the work after the decease of 
Bustamente. In 1759 the vein was reached, after running a tunnel 9,000 feet in length, 
cutting the vein at a depth of 600 feet beneath the surface, and exposing to view an immense 
body of ore. Terreros, in the 12 succeeding years, drew from his mines a clear profit of 
$6,000,000; he obtained the title of Count of Regla by the munificence of his donations to 
the Court of Madrid; he presented Charles III with two sTiips of the line, (one of 112 guns, 
constructed at Havana of the most costly material, ) and accommodated him besides with a 
loan of $1,000,000, no part of which has been repaid. 

His successor, the second count, continued the working of the mines, but not with equal 
profit, for the upper portions of the vein being worked out, he was compelled to go below the 
adit, and the water encountered required 1,200 horses to pump it out, at au annual expendi- 
ture of |i250,000. After struggling for many years, and after a depth of 324 feet under the 
adit had been reached, the work was abandoned, and the mine allowed to fill with water. 

It Avas in this state when the English Real del Monte Company took possession ; they 
expected, by substituting powerful steam machinery for the horse whims which had been 
employed by tlie Mexicans, to make the mines again profitable. The result, however, was 
very disastrous, for in the 23 years they held the mines the expenditures were $15,381,633; 
while the total yield was $10,481,475, showing a loss of nearly §5,000,000. 



WEST OF TPIE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 389 

They first erected two steam engines of 86-incb cylinders each, which freed the mine from 
water to a depth of 324 feet under the adit ; at this point another one was required and erected 
of 54-inch cylinder, by which the working was carried to 724 feet under the adit ; hut here 
again the engines were oveii)owered, and still another engine of 75-inch cylinder was erected. 

Mr. John Buchan, the superintendent of the mine, in one of his reports, made in 1852, says: 

"After the mine had reached a depth of 710 feet under the adit (1,310 feet below the sur- 
face) the difficulties of drainage had so increased, both from augmented quantity of water 
and the greater height to raise it to the point of discharge, that three powerful steam engines 
could barely stem the coming waters of the mine. 

"With the increased difhculty of drainage, seeing three bunches of ore worked out, and 
a debt of $5,000,000 still outstanding, it is not surprising that the energy and perseverance 
of the English adventurers were at last exhausted. 

" Had the company prosecuted a projected deeper drain tunnel, it would have secured the 
continued prosperity of the mines for many years to come. It will be remembered that the 
first Count of Kegia distinguished himself and made the fortune of bis family by driving 
the present adit ; the second count reached down 324 feet below it, being the limit to which 
the mines could be worked with profit by horse power drainage. The English company, by 
the powerful aid of steam machinery, carried down the workings to 720 feet below the adit; 
but hero we find another limit to profitable working, as the deeper excavations of the Bis- 
canya vein are again abandoned to fill with water. 

" A deeper adit, v/hich had to be driven a distance of 13,500 feet, had been commenced by 
the second count. The English company unfortunately adopted the more speedy plan, as it 
was supposed, of employing steam engines, instead of the slower but surer plan of driving 
home the deep adit, which could have been done with the investment of but little more 
capital than that expended in applying steam engines, and would no doubt have given a 
very different turn to the fortune of that company." 

Mr. W. P. Robertson thus relates the financial history of this company: 

"The London Real del Monte Company commenced working on a magnificent scale; 
then, under the influence of a panic, suddenly deserted, in the most critical time, their judi- 
cious and indefatigable agent at the mine, and the result has been unmitigated ruin. The 
mania in London at the time (1R23 to 1825) was so strong and so general that no expenditure 
was for a moment grudged. People thought they were laying out tens to receive back 
thousands, so they paid up their tens with surprising alacrity. The management in London 
of many of the new companies xmder the reaction was miserably bad, and in the end many 
of the shareholders were completely ruined and retired to cottages, there to abandon forever 
their ' Chateaux en Espagne.' 

"In 1825, the late Mr. Kinder, the enthusiastic leader of the Real del Monte Company, 
was offered $8,000 for each of his 30 shares of $500 paid up in that concern ; he refused to 
sell, that is, he would not take $240,000 for what had cost him $15,000. The reaction set 
in, and down went all shares. In 1845-'46, those of Real del Monte were to be had at 
$12 50 each ; that is, Mr. Kinder's 30 shares, which in 1825 were worth $240,000, had grad- 
ually dwindled down to $375 ! The company was all but bankrupt ; no more assessments 
were listened to ; and the debts could not be paid with unsalable engines, though they kept 
up the steam, nor yet with stones, although silver was in them. The shares have since gone 
to nil; no one will have them fenced in, as they are with unknown responsibilities and 
debts. In vain did their new, active, intelligent, and enterprising, though prudent manager 
and agent, Mr. Buchan, write to the shareholders to take heart and not to throw away their 
property. They had been panic-stricken in the first instance, they had got sick of the 
business in the second, and in this last and most helpless fit, they entered into negotiations 
for the sale of the property to a Mexican company. A bargain was struck, and the perpetual 
lease of Real del Monte, with everything on it, passed from the hands of the Real del Monto 
bondholders for an old song. The entire sum paid was $130,000, for a bnsiness on which 
$7,000,000 had first and last been expended; and even of the mite to be recovered, three- 
fourths were not to go into the hands of the bondholders at all, but to be appropriated in 
Real del Monte itself in the liquidation of sums still due to the servants of the old company. 
What a winding up ! Shares once worth $8,000 each, now not worth 30 cents I and the 
actual movable property on the estate, in houses, workshops, machinery, crushing establish- 
ment, timber, wood, iron implements, utensils, steam engines, horses, horned cattle, mules, 
and many valuable miscellaneous materials, must be worth altogether some millions of 
dollars. The house of Rogla alone cost a million and a half, and now is valued at a million 
of dollars— all gone for $130,000. 

"Thus did Real del Monte pass from the Counts of Eegla in Mexico, and thus has it 
passed from the luckless shareholders in London— the first paying the penalty of personal 
extravagance, the other an equally severe one of wild speculation and injudicious manage- 
ment. It is now in wiser hands than theirs, and prosperity dawns again on this almost 
national establishment or colony." 

This history of the Real del Monte mine teaches a valuable lesson, confirmed by the result 
of almost every similar enterprise in Mexico. They show that after a certain depth has been 
reached and no drain tunnels consh'ucted, the mines have been abandoned and the proprie- 
tors ruined. 



390 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEERITOEIES 

St. Clair Duport, who published a work on the mines of Mexico in 1843, gives a general 
sketch of mining operations, which is a perfect representation of recent experience in Cali- 
fornia and Nevada. He says : 

"Opening a mine by accident, somebody discovers, guided by the croppings elevated 
above the soil, quartz containing some metal. He exposes some pieces to white heat, and if 
he discovers thereon globules, or pearls of silver, he takes up the claim. The discoverer 
now seeks partners with capital to work this claim, as generally the means of one man are 
not sufficient for such an enterprise. At first they generally seek to extract the ore by fol- 
lowing down on the vein, and open a number of shafts along its course ; but in the same ratio 
as these shafts increase in depth the water increases too ; galleries and new shafts become 
necessary, and finally, as is generally the case when the largest portion of the yield has been 
expended in such operations, particularly in mines which are not extraordinarily rich in 
minerals, the work has to stop on account of bad air and abundance of water, the improve- 
ments being of no further use. 

"The owners now look for new partners ; if the vein presents probabilities of richness at 
a greater depth, persons can be found who, for a portion of the stock, generally for half, 
advance the necessary means, which is to be repaid out of the first yield of the mine. 

"After the water has been removed, and the shafts and galleries are made, and really rich 
ore is found, then commences the good time of the mine. Arrived at a depth where silver 
generally is abundant, and when the expenses to bring the water and ore to the surface are 
not too great, mining is a good paying business ; that is what is called in the miner's lan- 
guage 7a bonanza.'' This time is hoped for with ardent desire, not only by the owners of the 
mine and the miners employed, but also by the entire neighborhood. In this case labor, and 
all necessary articles for mining, are in demand, and well paid for ; the money earned with 
ease is spent freely, and everybody in the whole mining region having any claims is full of 
hopes to strike it equally rich. The buildings for the reduction of ores are now erected, and 
very often in a style altogether too costly for their use. Next, underground works are con- 
structed to facilitate the hoisting of ore and water. In case the mines in ' bonanza'' belong to 
private individuals, these works are executed on a substantial basis, with a view of useful- 
ness for the future. But in most cases, when a mine is divided amongst a number of share- 
holders, they present such a diversity of ideas that they often cannot agree upon anything at 
all, except to extract the most money from their mine in the shortest time possible, without 
even looking ahead for a few months. For this reason we cannot find one single well- 
worked gallery in such mines. The richest' ore is torn from the mine, and less rich ore 
remains untouched to be taken out when ' la bonanza' ceases. It is difficult to understand 
why in times of prosperity a small portion of the yield is not spent to make new developments. 

Abandonment of the Mine. — " The pay streak once traversed, and the increased depth 
rendering the price of extraction too considerable, the 'bonanza' ceases. The less rich ore 
left in the mine is now taken out, and one of the greatest expenses being the keeping down 
of the water, the lower qualities of ore are abandoned. 

"The reserved middle class of ores will pay expenses to explore the mine for a while, but 
the time arrives when a day's work, or the value of a pound of ore, ceases to pay, and the 
mine is thereafter entirely abandoned." 

The author of the above description of mining operations in Mexico, written 25 years ago, 
could not have given a more truth fid account of operations in the Comstock lode had he 
spent the last six or seven years in Virginia City. Oar mining companies have been pur- 
suing exactly the same course, and have followed in the footsteps of their Mexican prede- 
cessors. Euin of the owuei's and abandonment of the mines has been the result there ; ruin 
and abandonment must follow upon the suicidal course pursued here. 

Mining in Europe. — If we turn to Europe, however, we find that mining is carried on 
with intelligence, economy, and with a view to permanency. In England but few mines 
are located at any considerable elevation above sea level, and deep drainage by adits is 
impossible. But each mine has its adit, however small its depth may be beneath the surface, 
and in stating the depth of shafts in England they are given from the adit downwards ; what 
is above the adit is not counted at all. 

The most remarkable work of this kind in Great Britain is the great adit in Cornwall, of 
which an English writer says : 

"The advantages of working mines by adits are well shown at the United mines, near 
Eedruth, where an adit has been driven, commencing only a few feet above the sea level, 
which, with its branches, has a length of from 30 to 40 miles, and a depth under the mines 
of from 180 to 4xJ0 feet. By means of this work a saving in the consumption of coal is 
effected amounting to 24,000 tons per annum. This magnificent undertaking was completed 
in 1768." 

Mine.s in Germany.— The mines in Germany present by far the finest field for studying 
mining operations reduced to a science. There mining schools and learned professors have 
for years prepared young men, who were to be placed in charge of mines, with a thorough 
knowledge of all the varied branches required ot mining engineers. It is owing quite as 
much to intelligent management as to the low rates of wages that mines arc profitably 
worked in Germany which would be considered valueless in California or Nevada. There 
we sec the most complete systems of drainage and- ventilation, and mines placed beyond the 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 391 

usual contingencies of such enterprises, yielding nearly uniform dividends, and regarded by 
capitalists as good security for investment. 

The Frieberg District. — A few years since it was proposed to drain the Fricberg min- 
ing district by an adit-level of the extraordinary length of ii4 miles, which would cut the 
A'ein at a mean depth of 2,000 feet. This plan was vigorously supported by Von Beust and 
other eminent mining engineers, and received the sanction of tiio iSaxon government. This 
gigantic work has not yet been commenced, but a deep adit is now being driven, which will 
drain the mines 400 feet below the present deepest natural drainage, and will have a length 
of a little over eight miles. It is eigbt feet wide, nearly 10 feet high, and rises in the whole 
distance 12 feet 6 inches. . 

In the Harz district some mines have attained an immense depth. The mine of Andreas- 
berg has a depth of 2,450 feet, being one of the deepest mines in the world ; adits have been 
there for centuries, the largest of which was completed three years ago. 

The Ernst August Tunnel. — We make the following condensed extract from a report 
made by Dr. Geissler concerning this great work, called the Ernst August tiuinel, after the 
late King of Hanover: 

"On the 22d of June, 1864, a drain tunnel was completed which may be called the great- 
est work of the kind ever executed. To explain its objects and importance it will be neces- 
sary to give the following details : 

"The mines of the Harz were about to be abandoned, or, more properly speaking, about 
to be drowned out by water beyond redemption. In the course of time the explorations in 
those mines went deeper and deeper, until they reached a depth of 2,000 feet. While the 
higher situated galleries ceased to yield pay ore in sufficient quantity, the exceedingly rich 
ores discovered in the lowest levels could not be reached on account of great bodies of water, 
which pumps and engines could not master, and the lower levels had to be. for the time 
being, abandoned, 

" There have been drain tunnels in the Harz for a long time, which were used as canals 
for the transportation of ores. Already at the commencement of the Kith century mechani- 
cal means to remove the water from the mines were insufScient, and drain tunnels were con- 
structed at that early period. The iirst tunnel was commenced in 1525, another in 1548, one 
in 1551, and still another in 1573. By aid of these tunnels mining was continued in those 
districts for 200 years, but about the middle of the last century it became difficult again to 
master the water. 

"In 1799 another deep tunnel — having a length, including galleries, of 57,000 feet, or 
nearly 11 miles — was completed. But this also, afterwards, was considered insufficient for 
firture purposes, for notwithstanding additional engines might have been used for a while, 
their dimensions and cost in mines which had reached such an enormous depth would have 
been very great. And, after all, the surest and cheapest way for water to be removed is by 
its natural flow ; the engines have enough to do in pumping the water up to the Ernst August 
tunnel, as that gives the deepest natural drainage which can ever be obtained. 

Description of Tunnel, — "In 1850, after careful surveys and due consideration, the 
construction of the Ernst August Tunnel was resolved upon ; it was to commence at Gittelde, 
a little town at the foot of the Harz mountains, and it was estimated that 22 years would be 
required for its completion, but it only took a little over lialf that time, for it was entirely 
completed in 12 years and 11 months. Nine shafts had been sunk, from which 18 gal- 
leries or drifts were run, and one from the mouth, so that the work progressed from 19 differ- 
ent points. The connections were made with such perfection that they could not be recog- 
nized after they were completed. 

"This tunnel has a uniform fall of 5 -i% inches to each G30 feet, or 1 in 1,400; its height 
is eight feet three inches ; its width, iive feet six inches, and its shape that of an egg. The 
water has a sufficient depth to allow the use of long flat-boats, for the transportation of ore. 
A part of the water-course is covered over, to be used as a sidewalk for the miners." 

Necessity of a Tunnel to the Comstock Lode. — We have thus far reviewed the 
results of mining experience Avhere drain tunnels have not been, and where they hp^ve been 
constructed, and the conclusion your committee arrives at is, that a deep drain tunnel to the 
Comstock lode will not only greatly' facilitate mining operations, but is an absolute necessity ; 
the sooner it is constructed the more benefit will be derived therefrom, and without it nothing 
is more certain than the abandonment of those mines before the lapse of many years. 

The necessity of the tunnel having been sufficiently demonstrated, it remains to show that 
the ore which will probably be obtained from these mines will justify the cost of construction. 

The first question to be examined is, whether the ore in the Comstock lode extends to an 
unlimited depth. This question has been so ably handled by Baron liichthofeu, an eminent 
geologist of the highest European reputation, that we content ourselves by giving some 
extracts from a letter written by him upon this subject, in February, 18G5, and published in 
one of the pamphlets issued by the Sutro Tunnel Company. For a more detailed account 
of the geology of the Washoe country we refer to his able report, to be seen on the tables of 
this institute. 

Continuity of the Comstock Lode. — The learned Baron says: "The value of a deep 
tunnel will, of course, chiefly depend upon the question whether tliese mines will ever be 
worked to considerable depth; that is, whether the Comstock vein will extend far down, and 



392 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

wlictlier it will retain its metalliferous cliaraetcr in depth. Both questious will have to bo 
decided from the study of the structure and nature of the Comstock vein, and from compar 
ii]g the results with the observations at such mines in other countries wliich have already- 
been worked to great depth. My experience on the Comstock vein is based on close and 
repeated examinations of nearly all the mines on its course. I believe I concur with almost 
everybody who has had equal experience about them, in the opinion that it is a true fissure 
vein, of extraordinary length, and extending downwards much further than any mining 
works will ever be able to be carried on. It would be too lengthy to enumerate the various 
reasons which lead most positively to this conclusion. It is now assumed almost universally 
as «, fact, and t-he number of those who consider it as a gash vein, or a system of gash veins, 
is fast diminishing. 

"As to the downward continuance of the ore-bearing character, every instance goes to 
show that the average yield in precious metals remains about the same at every depth. 
Some mines had accumulations of ore near the surface, (Ophir, Mexican, Gold Hill;) ia 
others they commenced very near under the surface, (Gould and Curry, Potosi, Yellow 
Jacket, Belcher;) at others, again, considerable work had to be done before bodies of ore of 
any amount were struck, (ChoUar, the southern part of Gold Hill, Uncle Sam, and others;) 
and some which had no ore heretofore, appear to have good prospects to iind it soon. The 
fact that some rich bodies of ore, which were found near the surface, gave out at a depth of 
a few hundred feet, induced the common belief that the Comstock vein was becoming poorer 
in its lower parts. But the explorations of the lost few months have entirely defeated this 
opinion. On the contrary, the enormous amount of bullion which is being produced by the 
mines at present may almost appear to prove that the vein is improving in depth. But this 
conclusion is probably equally fallacious, as it must be borne in mind that many mines have 
been developed at different levels and ore is being extracted from several of those. Hoisting 
works and the mode of extracting the ore have also been improved, and of course help to 
increase the daily produce. This average equality of the produce of the vein at different 
levels is not only true for the amount of ore extracted but also for its yield. Thericli body 
of ore in the Ophir audlMexican mines formsthe only exception to this rule, as none of equal 
average percentage in silver and gold has been found again. Even the relative proportion 
of gold and silver in the ore has not undergone any material change, though the bullion, on 
account of the more imperfect process of reduction, contained at first proportionally more 
gold than at present. 

"There is no reason to doubt that the equality of average produce and yield thi'oughout 
the entire length of the vein will continue downward to any depth ; besides the very obvi- 
ous theoretical conclusion that vast amounts of silver could not be carried into the fissure 
frcm the overlying or enclosing rocks, but naturally had to rise from unknown depths, 
thror.gh the channel of the fissure itself, to be deposited in it where the conditions for subli- 
mation or precijntation were given in its open space ; experience in other countries by no 
means shows of a regular decrease or increase in j'ield as of common occurrence, though 
either of them may happen. More commonly, the produce of true fissure veins in precious 
metals has been found to be about constant." 

The Baron wrote the above over two years ago ; the explorations made since that time in 
the Hale and Norcross and other mines, strongly confirm the views expressed by him. 

Nearly all writers who have specially studied the qi^estion of the continuance of mineral 
veins in depth have arrived at the same conclusion. We will give an extract upon this sub- 
ject from an eminent French writer, M. Burat. He says : 

"In all countries where isolated veins are worked, a large number of them have been 
abandoned and taken up again ; abandoned because accidents or barren streaks rendered the 
working burdensome, and afterwards taken up again, when they have, by the aid of capital, 
been made productive mines. The same veins have been declared to be rich or exhausted 
ibr these reasons at different times ; exhausted always when the owners were discouraged, 
and rich after the execution of further works had pierced the barren places. These are the 
facts of which we will relate several examples, and by which we intend to prove that each 
reworking of a vein after an abandonment more or less long, bears witness of the continuity 
of mineral veins in depth." 

Burat and other prominent writers recite numerous instances of this kind, but we cannot 
give place to them in this report. 

THE SUTUO TUNNEL. 

The proposed tunnel begins Gi miles below Dayton, between Corral and Webber canons. 
The distance from the mouth of the tunnel to the Savage Works is a little over four miles, but 
as the Comstock lode dips to the east, it will bo cut in '20,I7d feet. It will pass through the 
ditferent ledges in Silver Star and other districts nearl}' at right angles. Allowing a grade 
of one inch in 100 feet, or four and four-tcjiths feet ])er mile, it will be ],'J22 feet below the 
floor of the Savage Works. The topography of the country is admirably adapted for sinking 
shafts, four of which are proposed to be put down. They will not only supply the tunnel 
with fresh air, but will greatly expedite work, as drifts can be run each way after reaching 
the grade of the tunnel. The distance of the first shaft from the mouth of the tunnel is 4,070 
feet ; depth, 443 feet ; second shaft from first, 5, 150 feet ; depth, 980 feet ; third shaft from 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 393 

second, 4,060 feet ; depth, 1,436 feet ; fourth shaft from third, 4,654 feet ; depth, 1,360 feet ; 
from fourth shaft to Comstock lode, 2,244 feet ; depth, 1,942 feet. These are convenient dis- 
tances for working and ventilation. The mouth is about one and a half mile from Carson 
river, and 150 feet above high-watei" mark. There is a gradual descent for about one-third 
of a mile, in which a fall of 100 feet is obtained, giving sufficient area for dumping and mill 
sites. 

The vertical section of the tunnel through rock not requiring any support is a circle of 12 
feet diameter, with offsets 3^ feet from the bottom, about one foot wide, which support the 
superstructure of the railroad track to be used for removing ore and dehris from the mine. 
The space under the superstructirre is for drawing the water from the lode. Where timber 
supports are required to sustain the adjacent rock, the top is level, and 10 feet wide, clear of 
the framing; height eight feet to the bottom of the timbers supporting the railroad, where it 
ii 12 feet wide in the clear. Below this there is a triangular space, three feet seven inches in 
depth, forming the water way. 

The estimates of the cost of construction have been very ably discussed in a lengthy report 
by Jl. G. Carlyle, esq., covering some 200 pages of manuscript, and illustrated by numerous 
well-executed diagrams. Mr. Carlyle has resided some years in Virginia City, when he was 
the engineer of the Gould and Curry Company, and appears to be thoroughly familiar with 
everything connected with mining in that coimtry. The minuteness with which he goes into 
the details of the proposed work, the elaborate calculations into which he enters, and the 
scrupulous manner in which he weighs his conclusions, entitle his report to careful consider- 
ation. 

It is impossible for us to give more than a condensed abstract of the results he has obtained. 
The basis of his calculations is the experience of himself and others in mining near Virginia 
City, and the statements of Earon Eichthofen in regard to the character of the material 
encountered in the construction of the tunnel. The Baron says : 

"The facilities of excavating the tunnel woirld depend mainly upon the quality of the 
rock through which it will pass. It is a remarkably fortunate incident that the route selected 
by Mr. Sutro not only gives the greatest depth, is the shortest, has the best facilities for 
working shafts, but promises also in this respect to be the most advantageous. The first 
G,000 or 7,000 feet will be through trachyte and trachytic breccia, which in a broad semicir- 
cular belt of prominent hills, swing from Dayton by the Sugarloaf to Washoe valley. 
Trachytic breccia may easily be worked by the pick, yet is ordinarily solid and dry enough 
to require no timbering. An idea of its excellent qualities for tunnelling may be formed 
from the fact that in Hungary wine cellars hundreds of feet in length are with preference 
excavated in this kind of rock. The solid trachyte is an excellent blasting rock. Its supe- 
rior qualities have caused its general use in AVashoe for building material; it was as such 
applied in the construction of the solid masonry of Gould and Curry mill. With the use of 
the drilling machine of Mount Cenis, speedy work will be made in this rock. The next 
2,500 feet will, to all probability, exhibit a great variety of rock, some of which will be rather 
hard. The following 10,000 feet to the cutting of the vein Aviil most likely consist of the 
same material as is traversed by the numerous tunnels which lead at present to the Comstock 
vein. This rock (trachytic greenstone) vrould ofler some obstacles if i-t Avere in an undecom- 
posed state. But from the general nature of its decomposition, which evidently was per- 
formed from below by ascending steams and vapors during a time of volcanic action, wo 
believe we are justified in the conclusion that it will be found for the entire length of 10,000 
feet of the same rotten nature as in the shallow tunnels at present in existence, and it may 
have to be timbered the whole distance." 

Mr. Carlyle speaks as follows in regard to his experience with the two principal kinds of 
rock to be encountered : 

"While I was in the employ of the Gould and Curry as their chief engineer, we used solid 
trachyte for building purposes, taken from a quarry on the side of the Sugarloaf mountain. 
I had, therefore, considerable opportunity of learning the particular characteristics of the 
stone. It is not porous, but is very close in its nattu'e, has very few seams, no grains or 
special tendency to fracture in any particular direction. It is rather soft, and, in consequence, 
is easily drilled to any desired shape. The rock drills well and blasts freely, as it does not 
seem to have much cohesion on account of its many component parts. The rock does not air- 
slack ; on the contrary, it grows harder by exposure." 

This rock is extensively used for building purposes ; all the stone buildings in the town of 
Dayton are constructed of it. 

His experience in working greenstone porphyry he gives as follows : 

" This class of rock is traversed by several tunnels to the Comstock lode, all of which were 
easily worked, and they had to be suppovtc d by timber. The Gould and Curry lower tunnel 
is the only exception to this, as it passed through 1,400 feet of undecomposed rock, Avhich 
was not difficult to work on account of its favorable stratification; powder was used but to 
a small extent, and this for the purpose only of shaking the mass. The remaining 800 feet 
to the lode had to be timbered, as the rock would not support itself. The whole length of 
this tunnel, 2,200 feet, was run from one working point in 486 working days, or 16 months ; 
the work, however, was distributed over a period of two years, as it did not progress steadily. 
The average daily progress was nearly five feet." 



394 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Mr. Carlyle estimates tliat 10,535 lineal feet of tunnel will be thiougli solid rock, and 
9,643 tbroiig-h decomposed rock requiring timbering, 

Shaft No. 1 is 7i feet by 13^ feet, and shafts Nos. 9, 3, and 4 are 7i feet by 14 feet, outside 
of planking. They are timbered and planked from top to bottom, and divided into two com- 
partments — one for pumping out the water, and the other for raising the excavated materia). 

Preliminary tunnels are driven from the bottom of these shafts in both directions till they 
meet. These tunnels arc in solid rock, live feet in width and seven feet high, the top being 
a semicircle. In rock requiring timbering they are of a box-shape, four feet wide on top, five 
feet on bottom, and six feet four inches inside of the timbering, with a channel below for 
drainage. 

Time required to finish Tunnel. — "The time required to sink the different shafts 
on the Sutro tunnel, and make connections of the drifts from the same, I estimate as fol- 
lows, on the basis that four feet can be sunk per day on the shafts, and five feet made on 
the drifts : 

"Connection from drift No. 1 in 462 working days. 

" Connection from drift No. 2 in 693 working days. 

" Connection from drift No. 3 in 708 working days. 

"Connection from drift No. 4 in 815 working days. 

" Since all these shafts would be progressing at the same time, the connections from shafts 
Nos. 1, 2, and 3 will be made before those of No. 4, and the whole time, therefore, required 
to finish a preliminary tunnel to the Comstock lode would be 815 days. 

"The enlargement of this preliminary tunnel will progress from the mouth from time to 
time as the connections are made, and will be completed up to a point midv/ay between shafts 
three and four by the time the last connection is finished. From that point 4,618 feet would 
still remain to be enlarged, which would occupy J16 days. The total time, therefore, 
required to complete the Sutro tunnel to the Comstock lode would bo 931 days, or two years, 
six months, and 21 days." 

The committee would remark in regard to the removal of the rock for 4,618 feet, that esti- 
mating the sectional area at nine yards, the amount is only 13,854 cubic yards, on which, as 
the cut can be worked all along the top and at the two ends, sufficient number of men can 
be employed to remove it in the time indicated. 

Mr. Carlyle then cites numerous instances of shafts sunk by different companies, and tun- 
nels driven to the Comstock lode, which prove that his estimate of four feet per day in sinking 
shafts, and five feet in driving tunnels, Avhenever prosecuted with energy, is confirmed by 
experience, making duo allowance for their size and other circumstances, which in somecases 
have retarded work. 

Yoiu- committee are of the opinion that, with proper energy, a sufficiency of capital, and 
provided no extraordinary obstacles are encountered, the tunnel might be finished in the time 
stated, but it is so well known that delays are met with in works of this kind, from causes 
impossible to anticipate, that it is probable that an additional time of least one year may be 
occupied. It is safe to say that, making all due allowance for contingencies, the tunnel can 
be completed in from three and a half to four years. 



SECTION IX. 
EASTERN NEVADA. 

The eastern Nevada mining region, as tlic term is used, is understood to include 
that part of Nevada constituting the counties of Lander, Nye, and Lincoln ; being 
considerably more than half the State ; or embracing an area of three and a half 
degrees of longitude and seven of latitude, if we include the portion of territory 
taken from Arizona and added to this State by an act of the 39th Congress ; 
mahing an aggregate of about G0,000 square miles, or an area equal to the entire 
State of New York, with several of the lesser New England States added. This 
great region, at the beginning of the present decade, was almost entirely unknown 
to the world, as it was unoccupied and unexplored, save one or two routes travelled 
by the emigrant from the valley of the Mississippi to the Pacific coast. It had 
been crossed along the line of the Humboldt river, and upon the more direct 
route, part of whicli is now the road taken by the great overland mail. Fremont 
and other explorers had also crossed by ditferent routes, but they had regarded 
it as a sterile waste, and wdthout looking for minerals or Avhat might give value 
to the country, sought only for routes or passes by Avhich they could most cxpe- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 395 

ditioos]}' leave it. So little was learned from tliese explorations tbat until 
witliin a few years past tlie country had been marlced upon the maps as an unex- 
plored region, generally destitute of vegetation and water, and sparsely occupied 
by a homeless, wandering, and degraded race of Indians. The desolation and 
sterility, not only of this particular region, but of all the country lying between 
the Rocky mountains and the Sierra Nevada, had become so generally acknowl- 
edged, that the wish had been expressed that these ranges of mountains miglit 
come together, and this great region be obliterated from the surface of the earth. 
The general appearance of the country throughout the " great basin" indicates 
that a partial elimination has taken place, as, topographically it presents the 
appearance of having once been a vast plain, which being pressed by the tAvo 
great mountain ranges bordering on the east and west, broke or wrinkled the 
surface into parallel ridges and valleys whose axial lines quito regularly extend 
north and south. These coiTugations are a prominent characteristic of the country 
south of the Humboldt river, and north of the 36th parallel of latitude. A pecu- 
liar feature of this section is, that it has no outlet to the sea, but its streams, 
which, though generally small, are quite numerous, flow from the mountains to 
the valleys, sometimes for a considerable distance in the vallej-s, and then are 
lost in the sand. The mormtains, which rise precipitously, are from a few 
hundred to 5,000 feet above the subjacent plain, and as the general elevation 
of tlie plains is about 5,000 feet above the sea, the most lofty peaks attain an 
altitude above tide-water of 10,000 feet. These hills and mountains are usually 
covered Avith scanty patches of pine, cedar, and mahoganj^ trees, furnishing excel- 
lent fuel, but generaliy valueless for building material, although ih^^o are local- 
ities where there are groves of ]mw, from which a fair quality of lumber is manu- 
factured. These hills and valleys, if forbidding in their general aspect, and 
apparently barren, produce a most excellent and nutricious species of bunch grass, 
and constitute a very superior grazing country ; while in the many canons of the 
mountains, and in all the large valleys, are tracts of land of an exceedingly pro- 
ductive character. The lands susceptible of profitable tillage amount in the 
aggregate to a considerable area, and are capable of furnishing most of the pro- 
ducts of the farm grown in temperate climates. The grasses, grain, and vege- 
tables are of good quality. Agriculture and manufactures can ho conducted on 
a limited scale, and will be great assistants to the chief resource of the country — 
mining. The mineral-bearing veins of eastern Nevada were first made known 
in 1862, at the time when attention was called to the subject by the develop- 
ments made iT^ion the ^' Comstock ledge," and from which near ^75,000,000 of 
silver have been taken. The history of this discovery says : 

Early in the month of May, 1SG2, V/illiam IT. Talcott, an attache, of the staj^e station at 
Jacobs's Springs, a post on the transcontinental stage route, while hauling wood f'roni the 
hillside, now within the limits of the city of Austin, discovered a vein of metal-bearing c^uartz, 
and carried a small quantity with him to the station. The rock proving to contain silver, the 
ledge was located as a mining claim, and named the Pony, as the discoverer had formerly 
been a rider of the pony express. On the lOth day of May, 18()2, a mining district was 
formed, including an area 75 miles in length east and west, and 20 miles north and south, 
and named the I'eese river mining district. A code of laws was adopted after the custom 
of miners, and William M. Talcott, the discoverer, elected recorder, and the claims already 
discovered were recorded. 

The extent of the district east and west is nominally 75 miles, but reiilly it 
only extends from the western base of the mountain to the summit, about three 
miles. 

This was the inauguration of the Eeese river mining region. Its name is 
derived from a small stream called Reese river, flowing from south to north 
through the valley which borders the western base of the mountains. The extreme 
length of Reese river is about 150 miles, when it empties into the Humboldt, 
but the water usually sinks and is lost before reaching the latter stream. The 
valley averages about five miles in width, and contains some good agricultural 



396 EESOURCES OP STATES AND TERRITORIES 

land. The mountain range in wliicli tlie silver was found received tlie name of 
" Toiyaoee/' an Indian Avord, meaning a range of hills. This range is of about 
the same length as the river, and is from 5 to 15 miles broad through its base, 
and rises above the subjacent valley from 1,000 to 5,000 feet. It is geologically 
composed of primitive rocks, of which granite or gneiss and slate are the princi- 
pal, with quartzite, limestone, serpentine, porphyry, and others as occasional 
varieties. In all are found veins of quartz-bearing gold, silver, copper, lead, 
antimony, and other metals. In its general character, appearance, and forma- 
tion it resembles the numerous other ridges running parallel to it through the 
country, and from 10 to 30 miles distant from each other, separated b}^ valleys 
generally containing a proportion of tolerable soil, yet unoccupied, and irreclaimed. 

The discovery of silver being made known, the news spread, rapidly and the 
people flocked to the locality. Situated on the line of the overland stage and 
telegraph, it was convenient to reach. The site for a large town was surveyed, 
and Austin was ]:»uilt ; now incorporated as a city, with its mayor and board of 
aldermen, city officers, police, a city hall, a daily newspaper, saloons and stores, 
a national bank, private banks and assay offices, costly churches, public and pri- 
vate schools, public halls and lecture rooms, comfortable private dwellings, gas- 
works for lighting the city, water-works and pipes supplying the houses, sewered 
streets, stages running in all directions, and the telegraph connecting it Avith all 
parts of the Avorld — in fact, possessing the usual features of a city. Referring again 
to the history of Austin in the directory of the city, the writer says : " Centrally 
in the State of Nevada is the young and happ}^ city of Austin. Should its 
locality be sought for on the map of America, it will be found where is usually 
marked the vacancy of the ' unexplored regions,' in latitude 30° 29' 30'', and 
in longitude west from Washington 40° 4', or 117° 5' west from Greenwich, 
England, being almost precisely in the geographical centre of Nevada." 

This centre is conveniently reached from the east or west, and without hard- 
ship or danger. The great trans-continental highway runs through it with a 
daily stage, mail, and express. Two other stages, running between Austin and 
the Pacific, carry passengers and freight at very low rates. By daily stage the 
journey from San Francisco to Austin is performed in four days, at the cost of 
$50. By the other stages the time is greater by one or more days ; the cost is 
from $15 to S30. The road is good, and freight wagons bearing 10,000 to 15,000 
pounds Aveight are taken over it. The distance to Sr.n Francisco is 473 miles, 
of Avhich more than half is travelled by steamboat and railroad. From the east 
the traA^eller lea\^es the Missouri river by the cars of the Union Pacific railroad 
or its branches. After the present year (1867) the cars Avill quickly and easily 
bear him 600 miles AvestAvard OA^er the great plains, and thence by stage 900 
miles through Bridgcr Pass by Salt Lake to Austin, requiring about 10 days of 
travel. Great bodies of immigrants cross anilually Avith their OAvn conveyances, 
subsisting their animals upon the native grasses, or, as may be done at the present 
time, purchasing forage Avhich is produced at the settlements along the road. 
This mode of travel grcatl}' lessens the expense, but requires from 40 to 60 days 
for the journey. 

The laAvs and customs of NcA^ada, Avhicli are recognized by the government of the 
United States, permit miners upon the discoA^ery of metal-bearing lodes in an unoc- 
cupied locality to organize a mining district, designate its bounds, pass a code of 
laAvs regulating the location and tenure of mining property, and choose a recorder 
of locations. These districts are usually from 10 to 20 miles square, though gov- 
erned by the physical features of the country and thecontiguity of other districts. 

Reese Ria''er District — Hoav Claims are Acquiked. — Reese River dis- 
trict. Lander county, Avas the first organized, and has given its name to the 
surrounding country. Its mineral belt comprises an area on the Avestern slope 
of the Toiyabee mountains, about two miles in width and seven in length. 
Tno dimensions Avere formerly greater, but the area mentioned comprises Avhat 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS OVl 

is now considered as the district. Upon organization a code of laws was adopted 
regulating" the size and manner of location of mining claims. Tiie law as first 
passed accorded to tlie locators of a vein the ground and all the mineral it con- 
tained for a width of 200 feet on each side of the vein located. In a few months 
large additions were made to the population, and the law was amended so as to 
restrict ownershijj to the lode or vein actually discovered and located, with the 
privilege of occupying the surface necessary for working the mine. The mining 
laws of other districts in eastern Nevada do not differ materially from those of 
Reese river. The laws of Congress acknowdedge the validity of these rules 
and pennit miners to go upon the puT)lic lands and take possession of the mines, 
promising no interference. These laws explain themselves. The ground is 
public and open to all the world. Any man can go upon it, and. by finding a 
vein of gold, or silver, or any other ore can make it his own, and is assured and 
protected in his title. In no other country is such a privilege given. A country 
stored with wealth invites the people of all the earth to come and take possession 
and become independent land-owners and miners. 

Yv'ithin the limits of the district over 6,000 locations have been made, but this 
does not indicate the nmnlicr of distinct silver-bearing veins known to exist. 
There are ftiany hundreds of kno^'n value. These veins are in the gTanite rock, 
and are from six inches to three feet in thickness. They generally lie parallel 
to each other, with a strike northwest and southeast and a dip to the northeast. 
A movement of the rock has at some places been made, and these ledges are 
broken or have " faults," and the angle of their dip is not so great. 

Mode or AVoeking. — The veins are usually explored by means of an inclined 
shaft commencing \vhere the ore appears at the surface, and following down with 
the dip of the ledge. When, after thus sinking a distance sufficient to render 
certain the existence and character of the vein, it is thought desirable to open it 
as a mine, and to work it conveniently, a perpendicular shaft is sunk at a point 
some distance from the outcrop, as the ground permits, calculating to pierce the 
vein at a depth of 100 feet or more beneath the surface. These shafts are of 
difierent dimensions, the best being about 5 by 15 feet. The cost of sinking 
such a shaft and securely timbering it is about $60 per foot of depth. 

Desckiptiox of Oees. — A belt of silver-bearing veins runs from Marshall 
cauon, in the southern part of the district, northerly to the Amador district, a 
distance of about six miles. This belt is about half a mile in width. In it are 
a great number of parallel veins similar in character and generally rich. The 
difierent localities are designated as follows, commencing at the south : Miguel 
canon, Marshall's cauon. Union hill, Central hill, Lander hill. Emigrant caiion. 
Telegraph canon, Yankee Blade, and NeAV York ravine, the northern line of the 
district separating it from Amador. Each of these localities is locallj'' known 
for its particular mines in the more advanced stages of development. Those of 
the district most systematically opened are the Great Eastern, Timoke, Oregon, 
North Star, Florida, Magnolia, Savage, Diana, Troy, Buel North Star, Provi- 
dencia, Kaleseed, and some others on Lander hill, in the city of Austin, and 
vv'ithin an area of a few lumdred yards square. These are veins, the gangue 
being quartz, of 10 inches to two feet in width, of highly concentrated ore, easily 
and cheaply mined. On Central hill are the North River, Hubbard, Naiad 
Queen, Penobscot, and others, v,liich are well developed and have produced a 
considerable amoimt of bullion. On Union hill are the Whitlatch UnioK, 
Camargo, Silver Chamber, and Tuscarora, from which bullion has been taken. 
At Yankee Blade and in the vicinity are the Confidence, Maggie, Ontario, Ytsn- 
Ivee Blade, Whitlatch Yankee BLidc, Miami, Chase, Metacom, Midas, Green 
Emigrant, Vineyard, Vedder, and Sclavonia, most developed and of the best 
promise, while many others are located, partially developed, and regarded as 
valuable. A catalogue of the locations made in the district, or an opinion 
regarding them, would be useless ; many have been abandoned after some slight 



398 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

developments. The general cliaracter of the ore tlirougliout the clistri(;t is the 
same in the same relative positions. At the surface, and to the deptli of 50 to 
70 feet, -where water is found, the vein matter is loose and friable, has a dirty or 
earth-stained appearance, and the silver is found in the form of a chloride ore, 
presenting- a dark or straw-colored appearance. When the water is reached the 
vein matter shows the white, clear quartz, and the ore, then usually an antimo- 
nial sulphurct, is quite black, and, contrasted with the white quartz, presents a 
beautiful appearance. Its value is readily ascertained by one experienced in 
observing it. The ore taken from below, Avhere the water has long existed in 
the earth, often contains beautiful crj'stals of silver. From these mines are 
obtained specimens which adorn the cabinets of the mineralogists, the lovers of 
the beautiful and unique, and the curiosity hunter. 

The limits of this ref)ort do not permit a full desciiption of the varieties of 
ores, nor the discussion of the formations of the veins. It will suffice to notice 
the manner of their development, and to show their value. In the district, as 
has been said, are more than 6,000 locations of mines of 500 to 2,000 feet each. 
Probably 1,000 of these have been so far developed as to prove that they pos- 
sess a value ; but of this number only a few are at present mined. A descrip- 
tion of a few of the most noted on Lander hill Avill give an insight into the 
character of all and an idea of the extent of operations to be undertaken in the 
future. 

The North Stae, belonging to the Manliattan Company, Avas located in 
1862. In its first stages of dcA^elopment it Avas opened by an incline, Avhicli 
exposed chloride of silver ore, and Avas mined Avith some profit. At a greater 
depth the ore AA'as a sulphuret. Subsequently a perpendicular shaft Avas sunk, 
piercing the vein at the depth of 200 feet, and Avitli poAverfal steam hoisting 
machinery the mine is still Avorked Avith profit. The \'ein is encased in granite, 
is generally about 14 inches in Avidth, and is mined Avithout the aid of poAvder. 
In February last, of some hundreds of tons mined and reduced at the mill of the 
company, the average product Avas $240 per ton of 2,000 jiounds. The Avork- 
ings of the quarter ending June 30 shoAV 507 tons, and a product of $149 40 
per ton. The ore found in this mine, as in all the others in the district Avhen 
beloAV the line of pennanent Avater, is commonly denominated a sulphuret, 
although, it comprises scA'eral A'arieties of ore containing sulphur. 

The Oeegok is a parallel vein Avithin a fcAV hundred feet of the North Star, 
belongs to the same company, is Avorked by the aid of the same machinery, and 
in all respects resembles it. 

The Great Eastern is opened by a perpendicular shaft, and is advanta- 
geously AVorked. In one month, to the labor of 30 men it produced 137 tons of 
ore, Avhich returned of bullion an average of $346 77 per ton, or an aggregate 
of $47,507 50. The vein is from 10 to 30 inches in thickness, aA^eraging per- 
haps 18 inches. The gangue is a clear Avhite quartz, and the ore, Avhich consti- 
tutes a large percentage of the A^ein, is an antimonial sulphuret, or, as locally 
termed, a ruby silver, from its dark red or ruby color. The mine Avas first opened 
by an incline folloAving the inclination of the ledge, Avhicli dipped at an angle 
of about 30° from a horizontal, to the depth of 250 feet, de\'Cloping much good 
ore, although the A'cin Avas very narroAV. For the better opening of the mine a 
perpendicular shaft Avas sunk at a distance of 400 feet northeast of the croppings, 
Avhich pierced the ledge at a depth of 300 feet. At this deptli it AA'as found of 
greater size and A^alue than in the incline. It is unfortunate that at the date of 
this report the Avorkings should be in barren rock. A depth of 350 feet has 
been reached, and extensive explorations have been made Avithout finding ore of 
the quality Avhich heretofore made its AVorkings so profitable. The mine is 
Avorked through the vertical shaft before spoken of, Avhich is divided into com- 
partments to create a current of air, that passes doAvn one compartment and up 
another, affording excellent ventilation. At the greatest depth (350 feet) the 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 399 

temperature is C0° Falirenlieit.* The altitude of the surface is about 6,000 feet 
above the sea The miue is easily drained, discharging 20,000 gallons daily. 
The water is raised in a bucket by a steam engine of 50-horse power, which also 
does the work of hoisting the ore and waste rock from the mine, which amounts 
to G D tons per diem. The cost of transporting the ore to the mill and milling 
is as agreed upon. If the entire amount of bullion produced or the "clean-up" 
is returned, the charge is $65 per ton ; but if the miller agrees to return SO per 
centum of the assay value of the ore, the charge is $45 per ton. 

The Florida vein presents many characteristics of the Great Eastern, is in 
size about the same, and furnishes the same quality of ore. It is owned by the 
New York and Austin Silver Mining Company, and is mined render the superin- 
tendence of Mr. Edwin A. Sherman, a skilful mining engineer. The claim is 
800 feet in length, and is situated near the centre of the belt passing through 
Lander hill. Its strike follows the general direction of veins through the hill, 
being northwest and southeast, its dip being 29° from a horizontal plane. Its 
development under the present management commenced August IS, 1S66. It is 
opened by an inclined shaft following the vein, and has now reached a depth of 
350 feet. From this incline three levels are running ; the first at a depth of 150 
feet, which has extended to the northwest 65 feet, and above which for a Avidth 
of 30 feet the ore is mined out. Through this mining the average width of the 
vein is 10 inches. The second level is 50 feet below the first, and between the 
two all the ore has been mined. This level extends to the southeast a distance 
of 230 feet, and the ore has been taken out for a width of 30 feet above the 
level along 100 feet of it. The average width of the vein through this working 
was eight inches. A third level is run at a depth of 300 feet, which has reached 
a length of about 30 feet on each side of the incline. Along this level the vein 
has a thickness of 16 inches. The amount of levels run in the past year aggre- 
gate 760 lineal feet, making 32,000 cubic feet of rock removed from the ave- 
nues alone in the development of the mine, and about 18,000 more have been 
removed in the excavations necessary in taking oat the ore, making an aggre- 
gate of 50,000 cubic feet of country rock actually removed from the mine, or a 
small fraction over 4,000 tons. The number of tons of ore taken from the mine 
in this time is 317, 28 of which have not been worked. From the ore Avorked, 
288 tons and 1,679 pounds, there has been produced $74,823 82, or an average 
of $259 per ton of 2,000 pounds. The actual cost of working this mine to pro- 
duce the above sum has been $65,740 21, leaving a net profit of $9,083 61. 
The expenses include ofiicers, rent, taxes, &c., &c. To the profits should be 
added the value of the levels run to be used in the further operations of mining, 
which, at a reasonable estimate, should be $15,000 ; also a property above ground 
on the mine Avorth $5,000 more. The above statement is for tlie 10 urontlis 
ending June 30, 1867. Since then machinery has been erected for hoisting, of 
the value of $10,000, and about $5,000 AVorth of ore taken out and hauled to 
the mill ready for crushing ; so that thus far it may be fairly stated that the mine 
has paid the expense of its de\^elopment, including the cost of machinery, &c., 
Avith a A^alue of not less than $30,000 above ground, and the value oi' Avork 
performed for future benefit. 

The Sherman Shaft. — On the 7th day of February last Avas commenced 
the Shennan shaft by the superintendent of the Florida mine, in honor of Avhom 
it is named. This shaft it is designed to sink to the depth of 1,000 feet, and as 
much deeper as it shall be found practicable to go. Its dimensions are 5 by 15 
feet ; it is timbered or lined Avith plank three inches in thickness, and by the 
same character of planking is divided into three compartments. Up to July 28 
1 depth of 175 feet had been reached, all of Avhich is substantially timbered. 
Water Avas reached at a depth of 145 feet. The cost of sinking the shaft to the 
present time has av^eraged $61 per foot, including all expenses. 

* At 1st of August the temperature at the surface is 82°. 



400 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEREITOEIES 

The Bue^^s Shaft is projected b}' tlio same engineer, is for tlie same com- 
pany, and is of tlie same plan and dimensions, and is named in honor of B. J. 
Burns, local editor of the Daily Ileese Eiver Reveille. It is situated on the 
crest of Lander hill, as is the Sherman shaft ; is, at its starting point, 150 feet 
lower, and about one-fourth of a mile northwest of the latter. It has reached a 
depth of SOfeet, (July 28,) and has cost about the same per foot as the Shemian 
shaft. 

These two shafts are the enterprises of the New York and Austin Silver Min- 
ing Company, and are designed for working the Florida, Semanthe, Rubicon, 
Saratoga, and other ledges belonging to the company, and such other blind or 
non-cropping ledges as may be discovered in sinking ; but more especially for 
the penetration of the basin which is supposed to lie below the crust in which 
the numerous and parallel fissure veins are found. To continue these shafts to 
a great depth, heavy and powerful steam machinery of not less than 200-horse 
power will be required on each, and deep levels must be run connecting the two 
shafts. The machinery for the Sherman shaft has already been contracted for, 
and will be placed on the mine by the 1st of October of the present year. These 
shafts arc important and most promising enterprises, and, if carried out as designed, 
will prove the wealth of Lander hill at a great depth. It is expected they will 
be completed in about three years. 

The Magi^olia is a location upon the same vein as the Florida, joining that 
claim on the northwest, and of course in many respects it bears the same charac- 
teristics. The vein is explored to the depth of about 250 feet, and bodies of 
good ore have been developed. This mine is locally distinguished for the high 
grade of ore that has been taken from it near the surface. Its greater depths 
are but little developed. 

The Timoke. — Lyiug between the Great Eastern and the mines of the Man- 
hattan Company is the Timoke, a small mine, but one that has been profitably 
worked under the superintendence of W. F. Leon, for a company residing in 
Boston, Massachusetts. ,.The vein is from one to two feet in thickness, and in 
general character is the same as the others of Lander hill. 

Plymouth Silver Mining Company. — The Plymouth Silver Mining Com- 
pany is organized under the laAvs of the State of New York. It owns the Kale- 
seed, Parent, Zimmennan, and Jacob mines on Lander hill, lying in close prox- 
imity to each other and parallel, so that they may be well opened and worked by one 
perpendicular shaft. Such a shaft is in course of construction under the super- 
intendence of Charles C. Lane. It is the intention to sink this shaft 400 feet, 
108 of which has already been reached, (August 1.) No very extensive mining 
has been done upon these veins, only suificient to give proof of their value 
and to encourage thorough opening. A few. tons of ore from the Kaleseed lode 
was lately reduced and showed a value for first-class ore of $1,763 02 per ton, 
and the second class a value of 8280 53 per ton. . This ore was taken from a 
depth of 25 feet from the surface. The veins are quite small, seldom exceed- 
ing a foot in width, but the high grade of ore which characterizes these and other 
veins of the neighborhood has made their working profitable. 

The Savage and other Mines. — The Savage, Morgan and Muncy, Diana, 
Providencia, Whitlatch, Union, Troy, Buel North Star, and many others in the 
neighborhood, have been extensively mined and at times have been productive. 
A description of each, where all are so much alike, would be exceedingly tedious. 
It may be remp'tked that those mentioned, as well as others, are Avithin an area 
of a few hundic^d yards square, and that in the district are several miles of area 
of equally good ground, judging from the slight developments made upon the 
surface, and where undoubtedly as good mines could be opened as those men- 
tioned. In the great mining enterprises of Virginia and Gold Hill in western 
Nfevada, where in the last six years near 670,000,000 have been taken from 
the mines, there exists but one grand lode, the Comstock, which is divided through 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 401 

its length into a great number of claims, or mines, many of wliich return largelv 
to their owners, while some return nothing. This has been the most productive 
vein in the world. In the Reese River district such a gigantic lode has not been 
found, but there extends a belt some six miles in length and half a mile in width, 
in which are innumerable small veins, such as here described, of highly concen- 
trated ore, easily and cheaply mined. From a few mines upon this belt there 
were produced in the last month $109,221 87. There appears to be room for 
many times the present mining operations, with the same proportion of produc- 
tion, 3'et the resulting figures are so great that one scarcely ventures to make 
the calculation. An increase based upon the full development of all the mines 
of known value would amount to several millions of dollars monthl^^ from an 
area not exceeding fifteen square miles, the utmost capacity of the district. Upon 
a close examination of the ground the conviction is irresistible that there will be 
a greatly increased production within a few years. A full development of the 
district awaits the coming of the railroad, with capital, labor, and cheap subsist- 
ence.* 

The Mills. — An enumeration of the mills in eastern Nevada, and. their capa- 
city, would give a wrong impression and seem incongruous in calculating the 
production of bullion, without some explanation. It must be understood that it 
requires more to constitute a mill than a set of stamps placed in battery, with an 
engine to w^ork them, and pans to amalgamate, or furnaces to roast the ore. The 
building requires to be well and substantially constructed; all its successive 
parts to be systematically aiTanged; the power full and sufficient; and then 
energetic, economical, and scientific management. Many mills have been built 
without due censidcration as to what w^as required, and some upon experimental 
plans which were not successful. These have been failures, and now stand idle, 
and should not be counted in the list. 

*Mr. J. P. Kimble, in an interesting communication to the American Bureau of Mines, 

of New Yovli, says: 

"The interests of the Reese river district are rapidly advancing under the improved treat- 
ment of its ores of all varieties, and more especially the utilization of those of lower grade, 
which at first were generally discarded. Formerly only very rich ores would bear the cost 
of milling and amalgamating, so greatly was this augmented by the incomplete extraction 
of silver, as well as by their supply far below the capacity of the extensive mills, which 
therefore could not steadily be kept in operation. Dry crushing and roasting preparatory to 
amalgamation have effected something towards the utilization not only of the more refractory 
antimonjated ores, but also those of medium grade and the richer tailings. In the mills of 
Reese river the standard of yield is as high as from 80 to 85 per cent, of the absolute value 
of the ores in silver, attained at a cost which has gradually fallen from $75 to ftom $40 to 
$50 per ton. The mills of Storey county using Comstock ores produce not more than- 65 
per cent, of their value, though enabled to work ores yielding as low as $15. Thus there is 
entailed upon the Comstock lode an annual loss of $7,000,000 ; upwards of $9,000,000 this 
year, (1867.) The one thing needful above all in Nevada is the adoption of means, accord- 
ing to the varying circumstances and resources of different localities, to concentrate ores of 
low grade, and, what is practically the same, the tailings or residue obtained in the dressing 
of ores of better class. This is an object of far greater moment at present than the discovery 
of mining ground in addition to what is already far in excess of available capital to develop. 
The greater bulk of Reese river ores are at present valueless for want of cheap dressing and 
concentration. In the deposits of that district as well as in the Comstock lode, first-class 
ores in heavy bodies are of unfrequent occurrence. The average yield per ton of all Gould 
&, Curry ores reduced was nearly three times as rich in 1863 ($80 07) as in 1866, ($28,) 
and in I860 ($156 62) was nearly twice. as rich as in 1863. That of other leading mines on 
the Comstock lode does not at present exceed $40 per ton, while in a majority of cases it falls 
below $30. The books of the assessor for Lander county show 46 mi^ies, mainly in the 
Reese river district, to have produced more or less bullion during the quart ending Decem- 
ber 31, 1866. The largest production of ore was by the Savage Consolidated mine, being 
451 tons of an average yield of $103 25. The Great Eastern gave 287 tons, averaging $217 94. 
Of these 44 mines, two, producing lightly, yielded about $400 per ton of ore : thi-ee betwcea 
$300 and $400 ; five between $200 and $300 ; 18 between $100 and $200: 18 beic^ tlOC' 

26 



402 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Tlie mills of all classes now standing, the power, stamps, and districts, are as 
follows : 



Name of mill. 



jlanhattan 

Boston 

Silver Hill 

California 

Long Island 

Keystone 

Midas 

Metacom 

Ware 

Butte 

Empire and Silver State 

Parrott 

Phelps 

Pioneer 

Knickerbocker 

K'gby 

Pioneer 

Martin's 

Stirling 

Murphy 

La Plata 

Buel's 

Gould's 

Kutland 

Social 

Hope 

Pioneer 

Valley 

Crescent 

Cortez 



Total 



District. 



Reese River 

,...do 

...do 

....do 

....do 

...do 

....do 

..-.do 

....do 

...do 

...do 

Big Creek 

...do 

Union 

...do 

San Antonio 

...do 

Silver Peak 

Bunker Hill 

Twin River 

North Twin River. . 

Philadelphia 

Hot Creek 

Reveille 

Gold Canon 

...do 

Pahranagat 

....do 

....do 

Cortez - 



Steam 

..do.... 

-.do.... 

..do.--. 

..do 

..do.... 

..do.--. 

..do..-. 

..do.--. 

..do..-. 

..do.--. 

..do..-. 
Water 
Steam . 

..do.--. 

..do 

..do.--. 

..do 

Water 
Steam . 

..do.... 

..do.... 

..do.... 

..do ... 

..do..-. 

..do.--. 

..do 

..do.... 

..do 

-jdo.... 



No. of 
stamps 

20 
10 

5 
10 

5 
20 
15 
10 

5 

8 
10 
16 

5 
10 
2!) 

4 
10 
10 
20 
20 
10 
10 
*10 



* Light. 

Other mills have been constructed and removed or dismantled, which have 
been mentioned in other reports but do not appear in this. The above are either 
in operation or in condition to be put in operation, although the aiTangements of 
some are such that they are run at too great expense to be profitable, or cannot 
compete with others in doing custom work. The majority are standing still. 
Mills are in course of construction as follows : One of 20 stamps at Smoky Val- 
ley district; one of 10 at Hot Creek; one of 40 and one of 20 at Philadelphia; 
one of 20 at Pahranagat; one of 5 at Bunker Hill; one of 20 at Newark; one 
of 20 at Egan, (Gold caiion ;) and others are in contemplation. 

The Keystone Mill, at Austin, may be taken as a sample of its class, from 
its arrangement, construction, and cost. It was built in 1865, by Mr. A. L. Page, 
its chief owner and manager, with several additional buildings, as residence of 
superintendent, stables, blacksmith shop and store-house, all of brick, at a total 
cost of S9 1,800. The mill is divided into four rooms or divisions: 1st, boiler 
and engine room; 2d, battery room; 3d, furnace room; and 4th, amalgamating 
room. The first three occupy the front, and the last is in the rear of the battery 
room. Their dimensions are as follows : engine room, 45 feet deep by 25 front ; 
battery room, 45 by 35; furnace room, 50 by 140 ; and the amalgamating room, 
45 by 35; making a total frontage of 200 feet with a depth of 90 feet. The 
engine is of 60 horse-power. There are 20 stamps of 750 pounds each, drop 
eight inches and 78 times each minute. There are eight reverberatory furnaces 
with hearths 11 by 13 feet; 14 pans or tubs, five feet in diameter; six settlers, 
six feet in diameter; with retorts, smelting furnaces, &c. The total amount of 
freight hauled fi'om California for this mill, as machinery, lumber, and material 
for building, was 140 tons, at a cost for freight of nine cents per pound from 
.San Francisco. (The price is noAV six cents.) The cost of the machinery in 
■San Francisco was $18,000, and the total cost, as stated, $91,800. It crushes 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 403 

diy, roasts and amalgamates, producing' bars of bullion at a cost to the mill of 
$25 per ton. For custom -work it charges $45 per ton and agrees to return 80 
per cent, of the assayed value of the ore. TM-enty tons of ore can be reduced in 
each 24 hours. Four cords of wood are used per day in making steam for the 
engine and for heating the pulp in the pans, and eight cords for the roasting 
furnaces. Wood usually costs $7 per cord. Salt, of which a considerable quan- 
tity is used in chloridizing the ore, is furnished from the large fields in diflFerent 
parts of the State, at from $30 to $40 per ton. About 200 pounds of quicksilver 
is used at each charge of a pan, but varying with the amount of silver in the 
ore. The quicksilver costs 60 to 75 cents per pound; about one per cent, of it 
is lost. The wages paid are, for amalgamator, $10 per day; first engineer, $8; 
second engineer, $G; fireman, $6; blacksmith, $7; carpenter, $6; pan attend- 
ants, roasters, and battery feeders, $4 each. 

The expenses attending the production are : first, mining the ore, exceedingly 
variable ; second, haufing to the mill ; third, the State tax of 1^ per cent, upon 
ore after deducting $40 per ton ; fomth, cost of milling, $45 per ton ; fifth, internal 
revenue tax on bullion of ^ of one per cent. ; melting and assaying one per cent., 
and transportation to San Francisco three and a half per cent., making a total 
tax of six and a half per cent., besides the cost of mining, hauling, and milling. 
To these are to be added the income tax, the many stamps used on receipts, certi- 
ficates, checks, &c., incident to the constant handling and exchaiige of valuable 
property, the customs and internal revenue tax levied on machinery, raw and 
manufactured material, of which the miner is a destructive consumer. Thus it 
will be observed how disproportionate are the taxes imposed upon the miner, com- 
pared to other occupations ; the tax being both upon what he produces and what 
he consumes, while he is without the protection given to others. A tax on iron 
may be added by the miner to the price of the iron, but a tax on silver is never 
returned, and the silver miner pays the two taxes. All taxes are paid in cmi-ency, 
but estimates are also made in cun-ency when taxes are so paid. The business 
throughout the State, with the exception of the district of Pahranagat, is carried 
on in coin, estimated at par, and all expressions of mouey used in this report 
mean in coin, unless currency is expressly mentioned. 

Official Retueks. — A law of the State of Nevada levying a tax upon the 
products of mines compels the county assessor of each county to collect from 
the mills and mines quarterly statements of the amount of ore mined and reduced, 
and the average production per ton for the quarter of bullion obtained. This 
statement is given under oath, and the amounts produced are estimated in coin. The 
assay value of the ore is from 20 to 40 per cent, higher than the amounts given 
in these reports, these being only the amounts obtained from the working, a 
portion always being lost. The reports are for Lander county, but large quan- 
tities of ore are brought to Austin from districts in Nye county, and are included 
in the returns. These, in the returns for the quarter ending September 30, 1866, 
are marked thus: Philadelphia,* Danville,t and Northumberland.! The returns 
for one year furnished, taken from the assessor's report, as published, in the Daily 
Reese River Reveille. 



404 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Quarter ending September 30, 1866. 



Kame of mine. 



Great Eastern 

Fortuna 

KortU River 

Troy 

Diamond 

Blind Ledge 

Semanthe 

Othello 

Idora 

Highbridge * 

Eastern Oregon 

Foster 

La Plata 

Chase and Zent 

Canada 

El Dorado* 

Magnolia 

Washington 

Vanderbiltt 

Morgan & Muncey 

Diana 

Richey & Hussey { 

Detroiti 

Camargo 

Timoke 

Green &Odei* 

Dover 

Isabella 

Harding & Dickman 

Providential 

Cortez Giant 

Transylvania* , 

Polsom 

Savage Consolidated, No. 1 
Savage Consolidated, No. 2 



412 
23 
30 



5 

16 

17 

1 

26 

50 

4 

6 

o 

4 
4 

17 

17 

7 

4 

39 

28 

1 

o 

19 

1 

79 

^27 

~19 

5 

IGO 

230 



Pounds. 



659 



536 

1,000 
402 

1,968 
774 

1,135 

1,237 



1,212 
882 

1,000 

1,500 
568 

1,171 
88 

1,670 
631 
503 
612 

1,800 



253 
600 
450 
503 
1,233 
1,000 



330 
1,019 



Average 
per ton. 



$176 £2 

85 71 
217 56 

83 82 
132 57 
128 64 
276 97 

36 .53 
212 62 
195 36 

86 46 
A^ 47 
71 60 

362 04 
132 90 
294 58 
259 93 
187 45 

115 46 
107 75 
180 40 
201 75 

116 18 
90 77 

107 92 

178 43 

161 64 

40 18 

87 19 
39 04 
66 07 

161 00 
166 JO 
156 33 
74 06 



Quarter ending December 31, 1866. 



Name of mine. 



Amsterdam 

Buel North Star 

Camargo 

Chase 

Diana... , 

Enterprise (White Pine district) ... 

East Oregon 

Empire State 

Ensign 

Fortuneteller 

Florida 

Fenian Star 

Fortuna 

F arrel 

Great Eastern 

Idora 

J. R. Murphy 

Joseph Cole 

Jacob Bradley 

Keystone 

Kihock 

Zaidee 

Lodi 

Livermore 

Mount Tenabo Company (Cortez) . 

Morgan & Muncey 

Magnolia 

Metacom 

Manhattan Company 

May Si. Davis 

North River 

Ovren & Perkin-s 

Providential 

Pinney, Rev 



Tons. 


Pounds. 


Average 
per ton. 


1 


250 


$168 75 


4 


1,920 


336 57 


12 


973 


116 57 


4 


1,438 


405 10 


143 


1,909 


91 18 


1 
4 




111 53 


779 


137 65 


7 


619 


99 22 


1 


667 


66 25 


4 


416 


177 28 


13 


1,900 


2.=5 60 


7 


1,359 


54 24 


1 


1,520 


30 33 


3 


1,453 


71 12 


287 
22 




217 94 


1,695 


220 42 


1 


100 


251 18 


1 


1,350 


27 85 


1 




116 80 


o 


330 


194 66 


1 




197 27 


1 


728 


100 61 


7 


1, 019 


32 54 


3 


500 


157 79 


4 


626 


25 69 


6 


1,671 


238 23 


26 
69 




100 99 


288 


83 90 


2 


4.30 


136 80 


13 


1,924 


56 03 


3 


1,700 


46 16 


64 


844 


54 91 


6 


600 


51 73 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

Quarter ending Decernber 31, 1866 — Continued. 



405 



Name of mine. 



Tons. 


Pounds. 


o 


824 


6 


1,500 


451 
14 




1,913 


1 




l.'jO 


79 


1,138 


5 


982 


3 


1, 338 


4 


1,176 


12 


67 


18 


546 


5 


1,278 



Average 
per ton.' 



Patten 

Remington 

Savage Consolidated 

SRver Queen 

Surprise 

Semanthe 

Timoke 

Taylor & Passmore, (Cortez) 

Tannehill, (Eureka) 

Victoria 

Washington 

Whitlatch 

Zimmerman 



$200 43 

49 63 
103 25 

38 28 
171 06 
332 52 
148 41 
160 43 
106 35 

91 20 
479 52 
105 97 

71 75 



The above table embraces 47 mines, which have yielded more or less bullion during the 
quarter, and with few exceptions the ore reduced is of a good grade, sufficiently so to admit 
its being worked here remuneratively. It will be observed that a number of mines, which were 
included in the previous quarters of the year, do not appear in the present list, as well as 
that several mines appear for the first time. According to the assessor's returns there are in 
Lander county, and mainly in the Reese River district, about 75 mines which have produced 
bullion during the past year. As we have remarked, the ore worked is generally of a high 
grade, as the average yield per ton will show. A considerable number of the mines embraced 
in the quarterly lists were subjected only to testing operations, and the general result must 
be deemed encouraging. In the case of the Savage mine, the average yield of the ore is less 
than in several quarters preceding, but is still high, being $103 25 per ton. The yield of 
the Washington, Chase, Buel North Star, Gi'eat Eastern, Semanthe, Magnolia, Florida, 
Timoke, Idora, Metacom, Taylor, and Passmore, «&.c., is excellent, and as most of them are 
pretty well developed, they may be fairly classed henceforth among the producing and paying 
mines of the Reese River district. 

Quarter ending March 31, 1867. 



Names. 



Tons. 


Pounds. 


5 


569 


31 


422 


16 


161 


47 


1,678 


3 


1,735 


195 


717 


101 


1,394 


12 


981 


3 




4 




137 


669 


2 


700 


1 




3 


81 


5 


1,121 


1 




4 


738 


13 


1,536 


1 




1 


1,836 


384 


360 


28 


762 


1 


634 


1 


1,295 


1 


900 


3 


148 


4 


1,753 


1 




1 


467 


5 


657 


1 


650 


3 


1,635 


7 


254 


1 


1,895 


3 


1,700 



Average 
per ton. 



Black Ledge 

Buel North Star, 1st class 

Buel North Star, 2d class 

Cortez, no name given 

Dolerhide 

Diana 

Florida 

Farrell Co 

Fenian Star 

Fuller 

Great Eastern 

Glasser 

Idora 

Kelly and Ensign 

Leggett 

Lady Franklin 

Li vermore 

Magnolia 

Mountain View 

Miller & Co 

North Star ( JIanhattan Company) 

Morgan & Muncey 

Miiler 

Mc ntauk 

Marline 

Niagara 

ODair 

Peaslee 

Patriot „ 

Richmond 

RedBluflf 

Stranger 

Semanthe 

S waney 

Story 



$210 32 
182 56 
51 52 

238 69 

239 90 
94 30 

351 96 

204 67 

36 44 

349 34 

345 93 

200 75 

192 58 

129 18 

50 62 

134 48 

267 54 

371 82 

150 78 

234 45 

141 37 

103 36 

76 36 

144 GO 

88 90 

60 08 

284 71 

96 66 

64 08 

53 73 

55 01 

48 00 

132 88 

520 05 

204 98 



406 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Quarter ending March 31, 1867 — Continued. 



Names. 



Tons.! Pounds. 



Average 
per ton. 



Savage Consolidated 

Silver Lead 

Timoke 

Vineyard 

Vandyne 

■Washington 

Yankee Blade, no name given 
W.C.Blake 



290 
."5 

100 
5 
1 
4 
1 
1 



1,492 
1, 042 
1,392 



l,5Gl 

427 

1,628 



$62 77 

88 46 

27(5 S.'i 

66 00 

193 33 

312 37 

250 04 

76 08 



On comparing this table with that of the preceding quarter a marked improvement will be 
observed in the average yield of the ore produced by several of the leading mines, as well 
as in their increased production. For instance, the Florida produced during the last quartei 
101 tons of ore, which gave an average yield of fSol 9G per ton, against V.^ tons yielding an 
average of $255 GO the previous quarter ; the Diana, 195 tons which averaged $94 30, 
against 143 tons which averaged $91 18; the Great Eastern, 137 tons which averaged 
$345 93, against 287 tons which averaged $217 94 ; the Magnolia, 13 tons which averaged 
$371 82, against 6 tons which averaged $338 23 ; the North Star of the Manhattan Company, 
384 tons which averaged $141 37, against 69 tons which averaged $::^3 90 ; the Timoke, 100 
tons which averaged $276 59, against 79 tons wliich averaged $148 41 ; and the Savage, 290 
tons which averaged $62 77, against 451 tons which averaged $103 25. The falling off in 
the quantity and quality of the ore from the Savage is remarkable, but we believe the expla- 
nation is that only a small proportion of the ore reduced was extracted from the mine during 
the last quarter, but that the great bulk of it was taken from their dump pile. On the other 
hand, the improvement iu the production of ore from the North Star of the Manhattan Com- 
pany, and its increased average yield of bullion, is more remarkable. Perhaps the most 
striking increase, both as regards the product of ore and its yield ol' silver, is presented by 
the Florida, the exhibit for the two quarters being — December 31, 1866, 13 tons, averaging 
$255 GO; March 31, 1807, 101 tons, averaging $351 96. A number of the mines embraced 
in the present returns are strangers in previous lists ; indeed, there is reason to believe that 
several of them are not the names of mines, but of the persons who delivered ore to the mills 
for reduction. Two lots are returned from " Yankee Blade," not from the mines bearing that 
title — both of which belong to companies and are lying idle — but from that part of the Reese 
River district. One large lot of 47 tons of high grade ore is returned from "Cortez;" we 
presume it was brought from the Cortez district, but from Avhat particular mine — whether 
from the St. Louis, Taylor and Passmore, or Nonesuch— is not mentioned in the quarterly 
statement of the assessor. This loose and inaccurate method of making the return is iu 
direct violation of the statute, and defeats one of its principal objects. Every mill, or 
arrastra, or reduction works of any character, is required by the law to keep an accurate list 
of the name of every mine from which ore was delivered, and to furnish a sworn statement 
of the same to the assessor. Of course, in a district having the numberless locations of 
Reese river, a person bringing ore to mill may easily impose a fictitious name on the super- 
intendent ; but the name of the mine should be required in every instance, and no such 
unmeaning entries as " Yankee Blade," "Cortez," «Scc., should be allowed to appear in the 
statement. 

Quarter ending June 30, 1S67. 



Name of mine. 



Amigo 

Black Ledge 

Buel North Star 

Bonner Ledge 

Carter and Drake 

Ouba 

Chase 

Craycrof t and Brown 

Diana 

Elkhorn 

Empire State 

Fuller 

Florida, (New York and Austin Company) 
FarreU and Hixon 




20 
127 



37 
1 
6 

13 
173 



320 
936 
331 

882 

1,295 

1,095 

359 

222 

936 

1,145 

.740 

1,3^0 

385 

S25 



Average 
per ton. 



$5C ID 
104 09 
163 63 
324 45 

77 5 
114 1 
314 8 

49 47 
103 00 
535 41 
101 38 
741 67 
20() 10 
266 77 



WEST OY THE EOCKY MOUJfTAINS. 
Quarter ending June 30, 1867 — Continued. 



407 



Varoe of mine. 



Great Eastern 

General Cochrane , 

General Siegel 

Guadehipe 

Li verraore 

La Plata 

Ijibcrty , 

Magnolia , 

Moses Scramlin 

IMontauk 

Korth Stai', (Manhattan Company) 

North River 

Oleander 

Oregon, (Dollarhide) , 

Patton and Monroe , 

Perkins 

Quintero 

Hough and Ready' 

St. Louis, (Cortez district) 

Storey 

State of New York , 

Seraanthe, (New Yoik and Austin Company) 

Silver Cord .• 

St. Louis 

Silver Parlor 

Social and Steptoe, (Egan) 

Troy, (N. Y. S. M. Company) 

Timoke 

Virginia' 

'ViQe3'aid , 

Washington , 

■\V all and Isabella 

■\Vliitlatch Uniou 

"VV hitlatch No. 2 

Young America, (Mount Hope) , 



Tons. 


Pounds. 


Average 
per ton. 


33 


1,235 


$70 91 


1 


220 


232 72 


2 


1,412 


222 36 


4 


1, 130' 


155 48 


C> 


173 


201 84 


2 


1,200 


73 80 


3 


1,582 


50 23 


53 


394 


120 26 


L 


955 


.50 88 


1 


1,490 


250 70 


507 


1, 557 


149 40 


19 


1, .553 


211 39 


2 


354 


113 40 


1 


120 


253 89 


1 


92fi 


143 74 


3 


963 


214 44 


1 


90 


63 01 


2 


100 


123 90 


21 


1, 2.50 


252 .53 


1 


170 


253 79 


7 


1, 630 


165 26 


9 


530 


94 14 


1 


1,000 


313 86 


2 


195 


73 73 


4 


1,290 


77 24 


150 




90 00 


38 


498 


87 06 


96 


1,460 


241 49 


2 


930 


2C8 21 


9 


124 


220 57 


3 


1, 695 


447 69 


14 


1,560 


137 07 


1 


500 


300 73 


9 


1, 4158 


187 18 


1 


158 


80 CI 



The whole number of tons of ore reduced during the quarter was 1,438, which produced 
the sum of $232,335 57. The average yield of 1,438 tons Avas $161 56 per ton — a result 
that maintains the character of Lauder hill, from which it was chiefly obtained, for yielding 
a high grade of ore. On comparing the present table with that of the previous quarter, 
notal)le fluctuations and uniformity will be observed. For instance, the North Star mine of 
the Manhattan Company produced during the last quarter 508 tons of ore, which averaged 
$141) 40 per ton, against 384 tons, averaging iil41 37 per ton, in the former quarter ; the 
Florida produced 173 tons, which averaged $206 10 per ton, against 101 tons, averaging 
$351 96, of the former quarter ; the Buel North Star produced 127 tons, which averaged 
$163 63 per ton, against 31 tons of iirst-class ore, averaging $182 56, and 16 tons of second- 
class ore, averaging $51 52 per ton, of the former quarter ; the Timoke produced 97 tons, 
which averaged $241 49 per ton, against 100 tons, averaging $276 .59 per ton, of the former 
quarter; the Fuller procluced 14 tons, which averaged $741 67 per ton, against 4 tons, 
averaging $349 34 per ton, of the former quarter ; and the Diana produced 37 tons, which 
averaged $!03 60 per ton, against 195 tons, averaging $94 30 per ton, of the former quarter. 
The most marked fluctuation is that of the Great Eastern, which produced during the last 
quarter only 34 tons, which averaged $70 91 per ton, against 137 tons, with the remarkable 
average of $345 93, for the quarter ending 31st of March. Considerable exploration has 
been carried on in the Great Eastei'n during the last three months, the result of which has 
not been made public. Several mines, Avhich produced bullion in the former quarter, are 
not included in the above table ; and others again, which were not mentioned then, appear 
in the present return. The most noticeable of the latter is the Gilligan mine of the Social 
and Steptoe Company, in Egan canon, which appears in the present table with the good 
product of 150 tons, averaging $90 per ton, which is scarcely 60 per cent, of the silver con- 
tained in its peculiar ore. The returns of the last quarter are generally encouraging. 

Following the organization of Reese Eiver district, were in tlie same year dis- 
covered and organized those of Simpson's Park, adjoining it on the south, and 
further south that of Big Creek ; north was Mount Hojje and Grass Valley ; 
southeast were Smoky Valley and Santa Fe, and northwest was Eavenswood. 
These nearly surrounded Austin, and Avere from five to fifteen miles distant. 
All hut Eavenswood were in the Toiyabee mountains ; and the fact that large 
veins of silver-bearing quartz were found outside of this district gave an impetus 



408 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

to prospecting, and tlie monntains in their entire length were explored and dis- 
tricts fonned throughout before the termination of the year 1863. 

Amador District. — Immediately north, in Lander count}^, was formed the 
district of Amador, where the veins and croppings created a great excitement, 
and a populous and busy village was built in a few weeks' time. This appeared 
the most promising of the districts during the fall of 1863, but many of the 
ledges not proving, from the depth to which they were explored, as rich as their 
croppings promised, the district is not so favorably regarded as formerly. 

The Amador Ledge has been explored by an incline to the depth of 200 feet 
and up^^•ards. It dips to the northeast, at an angle of about 15 degrees. During 
this exploration much good ore was taken out, and its owners express confidence 
that when the reduction of ores becomes simplified and cheapened the mine can 
be worked at a profit. There are many veins like the Amador, Avhicli await the 
same events for their development. 

Tlie Chase Mine. — In the southern part of the district is the Chase mine, 
which has the appearance of being rich. It is but slightly developed, yet shows 
quantities of ore of an almost pure sulphuix't of silver. Operations have been 
suspended on it for several montlis, but it has lately passed into the hands of an 
eastern company, and work will be prosecuted on it hereafter. 

Otlicr Mines. — In the vicinity of the Chase are veins, some of which give 
assurance of value. The want of capital, and the lack of knowledge of mining 
engineering, have been obstacles in the way of development of many mines in 
this district supposed to be rich. 

Mount Hope, Cumberlaijd, Columbus, Mount Vernon, Indian, and 
Wall Street Districts. — As before said, the year 1863 was distinguished 
for explorations, but prospecting was then chiefly confined to the Toiyabee range, 
and to those ranges east and Avest, next parallel. In the Toiyabee to the north 
of Austin and Amador, and in Lander county, were organized the districts of 
Mount Hope, Cumberland, Columbus, Mount Vernon, Indian, and Wall Street, 
extending as far as 35 miles north, being continuous and including both sides of 
the mountain. The mines of these districts are almost entirely undeveloped, their 
croppings alone being known. From these croppings some rock has been taken 
from which encouraging results have l»cen obtained, but this vast area, probably 
well stored witli silver, is neglected and comparatively unknown, awaiting the 
coming of the capitalist and a denser population. It offers favorable conditions 
for working mines, as it includes one of the highest peaks of the Toiyabee moun- 
tains— Mount Hope — which attains an altitude of about 10,000 feet above the 
sea, in the deep canons of which run a number of streams capable of furnishing 
water-power for driving machinery. Its sides are covered with groves of pine, 
and where its streams debouchc into the plains at its base are tracts of good agri- 
cultural lands. In the valleys which skirt its foot are some farms ; but its min- 
eral wealth lies entirely neglected. One district has been noticed by an expe- 
rienced mining engineer, Mr. J. H. Boalt, who, after as close an examination of 
the ledges as their slight development would allow, reported that they were true 
fissure veins, of size from 4 to 15 feet in width, and of unmistakable value. 
Several of the veins were cut transversely, and the ore taken for trial ; and it was 
proved that they contained silver in paying quantities ; the assays showing a 
value of $100 and up\\ards to the ton. This is the only reliable examination 
made of the ledges of the district. Superficial as it is, it presents some proof of 
the value of a neglected district, and an indication that the great extent of country 
whicli this mountain embraces bears in its bosom the same precious veins which 
Jabor has proved to exist in other parts of the Toiyabee range. 

CoRTEZ District. — The Cortez district. Lander county, comprises the north- 
ern terminus of the range east of the Toiyabee, and includes the lofty peak of 
Mount Tenabo. It is 65 miles north, by 15° east of Austin. It was organized 
in 1863, and operations were instituted on a number of small veins in the northern 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 409 

part of the district. In 1864 a mill was constracted whicli attempted tlie reduc- 
tion of the ores ; but from the incompleteness of the mill, and the inexperience 
of the managers, the workings were not successful, and as a consequence disap- 
pointment ensued, and the district was long neglected. Subsequently, discoveries 
were made of mineral existing in a mammoth vein or broad stratum of quartzite 
which coursed through Mount Tenabo, and these bodies of mineral having proved 
valuable, attention is again attracted to the district. The following description 
of this mountain and the stratum or vein which bears the mineral, is from the 
Heveille, of January 4, 1867 : 

This vein is embedded in the bosom of Mount Tenabo, a peak 11,500 feet above the level of 
the sea, and upwards of 5,000 feet above the surrounding valleys. Its base, iip its side to 
the vein, is covered with a scrubby pine; while its summit, and 1,500 feet below is over- 
grown with grass and shrubs. The scarred and rugged mountain looks eternal. Some 3,000 
feet above its base a vein of silver-bearing quartz cuts its face obliquely, burying itself in 
the mountain at one end, and penetrating into the valley at the other, after stretching out in 
palpable view to the length of 18,650 feet. Its width is 400 feet. This vein, or perhaps more 
properly stratum, of the mountain formation bears beds of ore, the extent of which is only 
conjecture. The workings at various mills have proved encouraging. The veiu is encased 
in crystalline limestone. Twenty locations have been made, with the following names and 
dimensions : Commencing at its greatest point of altitude is the Chieftain, Genesee county, 
1,400 feet; Murphy Company, 800 feet; Gill Company, 800 feet; Taylor and Passmore, 
SOOfeet; De Witt Company, 450 feet ; St. Louis Company, 2,000 feet ; Meacham and Brothers, 
400 feet; Niagara, 400 feet; Savage Company, 400 feet; Nebraska Company, 1,200 feet; 
Cortez Giant, Mount Tenabo Company, 4,000 feet; Elmore Company, 200 feet; Russell 
Company, 600 feet; Continental Company, 1,000 feet; Argentine Company, 1,000 feet; 
Empire Company, 800 feet ; Conn and Brothers, 400 feet ; Traverse Company, 400 feet ; and 
the Anna Burr Company, 2,000 feet. The latter claim is somewhat broken, and at its ter- 
mination the vein penetrates the earth and is lost altogether. The vein disappears also at the 
upper boundary of the Chieftain. It has been opened at several points along its course, in 
every case disclosing mineral. The Gill, Taylor and Passmore, and St. Louis locations, near 
the upper end of the vein, have been worked, the two latter considerably : the Cortez Giant, 
which lies near the centre of the vein, is the most fully developed, and has yielded a consid- 
erable amount of bullion this season. Some work has also been done on the Continental, 
situated towards the lower end of the vein, with about the same results as in the other cases 
specified. Of this vein there is little exact knowledge, but that it stands out upon the moun- 
tain face, a large, palpable fact. It will probably be developed. And when that day arrives- 
we believe the Nevada Giant will be regarded as among the remarkable veins of the world. 

The Confinental. — There are but few claims upon this vein developed to 
any great extent. Upon the Continental, explorations have been conducted 
under the superintendency of D. T. Elmore, which have shown a lode about 300 
feet in width, containing three strata of ore of from five to eight feet in thick- 
ness. These have been mined to some extent, and the ore reduced at the mills 
at Austin, with a result of about SloO per ton. This is owned by a Maryland 
company, which, being assured of the value of the property, has thought best to 
await the coming of the railroad, that operations may be earned on cheaply, and 
the greatest profit secured. The trans-continentalrail road Avill pass within a few 
miles of these mines. When completed to this point it will cheapen material of 
consumption by the lessening of freight, and the time of its completion is so near 
that none can doubt the propriety of waiting for it. 

The Cortez Giant. — The Mount Tenabo Mining Company, a San Fran- 
cisco organization, was fomierly called the Cortez Company, and its operations 
have been previously noticed. It possesses a claim called the Cortez Giant, of 
4,000 feet in length, upon the Nevada Giant ledge, and has prosecuted mining 
upon it to some extent. It has lately been under the charge of H. J. Hall, but 
is at present superintended by H. H. Day. A main shaft has been sunk, which 
has now a depth of 214 feet, partly planked, and divided into two compartments. 
From the shaft several levels have been run ; the second from a depth of 121 
feet, which has explored the vein for a length of 217 feet, finding a stratum of 
ore of eight feet in thickness, worth from $65 to $100 per ton. The shaft passed 
through "the ore following the dip of the ledge at a depth of 171 feet. From the 
greatest depth a third level has been started, which it is expected will find ore 



410 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

as good as that developed above. Steam hoisting- works are expected to be com- 
pleted within two months, when work will be prosecuted to greater advantage 
than at present. A mill of 15 stamps belongs to the company, and is usually 
employed in working the ores of this mine. In this property the vein assumes 
its greatest proportions. Its croppings tower many hundred feet in the air, in 
wild and rugged grandem'. Viewed from a distance, as it skirts the brow of the 
mountain, this curious line of croppings presents the appearance of a huge balus- 
trade to some colossal architectural structure, with the round and treeless summit 
of Mount Tenabo, 11,000 feet above the sea, rising gently and gracefully, as 
the crowning dome above. 

The St. Louis. — North of the Cortez Giant is the St. Louis, owned chiefly 
by A. L. Pago and Simeon Wenban. In the claim is a body of silver ore 
from which selected lots have been transported to Austin, producing from $200 
to $300 per ton. Work is now progressing, and an incline in the body of ore, 
some 50 or GO feet in depth, gives promise that the mine will prove remunerative. 

Taylor and Fassnwre, Gill, dx. — The Taylor and Passmorc, Gill, and a few 
other locations have been slightly developed, and good ore obtained. Upon 
no others than those mentioned has sufficient work been done to demonstrate any 
value in the property. 

In the northern part of the district arc some small veins encased in granite, 
which in time may prove valuable. Among these are the Berlin, Wenban, Veatch, 
and a few others, upon which work has been done, and ore of a favorable charac- 
ter obtained. There is no mining doing upon them at present. There is some 
grazing and agricultural land in the neighborhood. 

The district is pleasantly situated. No grander scenery is furnished by the 
wild mountains of the interior, nor of the Pacific coast. From the high peak 
may be seen nearly all Nevada, with its ranges of mountains, its isolated hills, 
broad valleys, and desert plains. The Indians called it '■'■ Tenabo," which we 
translate to '^ look out ;" and it is really a lookout mountain. Looking westward 
from the summit in a clear day, the white peaks of the Sierra Nevada arc seen 
stretching along the eastern boundary of California, and many a hill, bearing 
silver, gold, and copper, lie between. Northward, but 25 miles distant, drawn 
athwart the vision, is the long and winding line of the Humboldt river audits 
valley of meadow or sandy plain. Eastward successions of hills and valleys 
meet the eye. In the other direction the dim atmosphere of Smoky Valley 
limits the sight, but glimpses of the summit of Mount Hope, Bunker Hill, and 
other peaks of the Toiyabee range which pierce the clouds, trace the line for 150 
miles to the south. The district is attractive both for its scenery and its resources. 

Newark District. — Newark district. Lander county, was organized in Octo- 
ber, 1866. It lies on the eastern slope of the Diamond range of mountains, about 
85 miles east of Austin, Its geological formation is of slate and limestone, the 
latter carrying a great abundance of fossil shells. Deep chasms are cut in the 
mountain side which exhibit the character of the rocks. One of these chasms 
or canons is called the Minnehaha. With its towering rocks, sparkfing stream, 
and luxuriant verdure, it offers to the eye a scene of rare beauty. Another is the 
Chihuahua canon, where the rocks seem burst in twain by some great convulsion, 
and stand in perpendicular walls, towering to the height of a thousand feet. This 
deep fissure exposes veins of silver-bearing quartz, varying from 2 to 20 feet 
in width. The ore exposed is an antimonial sulphuret, and is supposed to be 
valuable. A number of the veins have already been tested by Avorkings at 
the mills in Austin and good returns obtained. A mill, the property of the Cen- 
tenary company, is now in course of construction in the district, which it is hoped 
will soon add its product of bullion to the silver current of eastern Nevada. 
The ledges of the Centenary company best known are the Lincoln and the Chi- 
huahua. Upon the Chihuahua tunnels have been run which exposed the ledge 
in several places, favorably developing the property. The district is as yet but 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 411 

little known. Like niany others in its neigliborliood, it invites capital and labor. 
Now a wide and an almost nnocenpied wilderness, it offers many advantages to 
the miner and the agricnlturist. These occupations, being the basis of wealth, 
will attract in their train other branches of trade and industry. The mountain is 
partially covered with pine and mahogany, furnishing lumber and fuel. At the 
base, and between it and the White Pine range to the east, is a broad valley 
where farms can be secured. The small streams ^\liich run from the moun- 
tains, on either side, will supply water for irrigation and mini}ig ; the neighboring 
hills will furnish a market for agricultural products. Within the valley are 
salt springs, and acres of land are covered with this useful article, a demand for 
which is created in the reduction of silver ores. A visitor to this district about 
the time of its organization writes: "Thefutm'eof our State is encom-aging. 
The good time may be delayed, but it will come. Where there is a foundation 
for prosperity, there need be no apprehensions for the future. The foundation 
lies broad and deep in Nevada ; the rest is the work of time and man." 

White Pixe District. — The District of White Pine was organized in the 
autumn of 1865, and received its name fi'om the species of wood growing upon 
the mountain. That portion of the range bearing the name of White Pine is 
about two degrees in length, is lofty, and generally covered with pine. It has 
not been much explored for mines, except in the district now mentioned. Here 
a number of veins have been located which are represented to be valuable. The 
district is about 90 miles east of Austin, and is in Lander county. A company 
called the Monte Christo commenced in July last the development of a property, 
but The progress made, or the results obtained, have not been ascertained. 

Diamond Disteict. — Diamond district, also in Lander county, lies upon the 
western slope of Diamond mountains, and is 80 miles east, by a few degrees 
north, of Austin. It has been organized about three j-ears, and some Avork has 
been done in exploring and demonstrating the value of the ledges, of which a 
great number are located. Ore has been taken to Austin for reduction, which, 
returning $150 and upwards to the ton, gave i)roof of value of the veins. They 
are yet the property of the discoverers, who lor want of means were unable to 
erect the machinery necessary for their development, and, consequently, have in 
the Atlantic States and in Europe sought the aid of capital. 

EuKEKA Disteict. — The Eureka district, Lander county, was organized in 
1864, and lies 60 miles almost dkectly east of Austin. The geological forma- 
tion is limestone, with veins or bodies of metal-bearing quartz. The chief 
characteristic of the ore is an argentiferous galena, Avhicli might be reduced by 
smelting. Several tons sent to the mills in Austin yielded from 8150 to $450 
per ton. These results are encouraging. As some of the veins are owned by 
men of wealth in New York, it is expected that measures will be taken for their 
development. The district is in the midst of a good agricultural and grazing 
country, and offers inducements to those wishing a free and independent home. 

Egan or Gold Cano:n^ District. — Gold Canon district. Lander county, better 
known as Egan Canon, is one of the farthest east of Nevada, being 165 miles from 
Austin. It was organized in 1863, and native gold showing plainty in the quartz 
of some of the veins first discovered, gave it the name of Gold Canon. It lies 
upon the great trans-continental highway where passes daily the overland mail 
stage, and is connected with the world by two lines of telegraph. A small mill 
erected in the year 1864, l)y Mr. John O'Dougherty, met with success. It is 
again in operation, reducing ore which returns about $150 to the ton. A mill of 
increased capacity is in process of construction which it is expected will add to 
the product of bullion. It is favorably located for accessibility, and the abund- 
ance of wood and water give it some advantage. 

Kinsley District. — The Kinsley district. Lander county, is distinguished 
for its massive lodes of copper-bearing ore. It is in the Antelope range of mouu- 



412 EESOURCfiS OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tains near the eastern border of the State, 45 miles northeast of Egan and 200 
miles from Austin. The lodes are large, and ore is represented as being upon 
the surface which shows by assay from 35 to 50 per cent, of copper, and from 
$60 to $100 per ton in silver. The district is but little known ; its distance from 
the centre of population and a market render the copper mines valueless for the 
present. The Pacific railroad now in course of construction is expected to pass 
through this neighborhood, when the ores may be transported to market. The 
Kinsley may then become a valuable mining district. 

Ykeka District. — Yreka district. Lander countj^, is about 75 miles northeast 
of Austin. Reports of silver-bearing veins have been made ; but it is almost 
entirely undeveloped, and its value is unknown. It is sm-rounded by a good 
agricultural and grazing country. 

Battle Mount ai:n' D [strict. — Battle Mountain is a copper-bearing hill, 
situated about 70 miles north of Austin and is probably in Humboldt county. 
In 1866 it was formed into a mining district bearing that name. It is an igneous 
formation, and through the eruptive rocks are veins of quartz associated with red 
oxide of copper. The ore is brilliantly red and very beautiful. The district 
borders upon the valley of the Humboldt river, which will soon be traversed by 
the great Pacific railroad, when its ores will find a market. 

The district derives its name from the range of hills or mountains containing 
the cupriferous veins. In these hills a battle was fought in the summer of 1857 
between some Indians and a government expedition under the superintendence 
of John Kirk, engaged in the survey of a road bearing the name of the Fort 
Kearney wagon road, Pacific division. It is a low range of hills of about 12 
miles in length b}- five in breadth, fronting on Reese River valley on the east, 
and terminating in the valley of the Humboldt on the north. At the southern 
end is Copper canon, where the Troy and other copper veins are found ; and at 
the northern end is Long canon, where the Trojan, President, Mayflower, Blue 
Bell, Capitol, Henrietta, Fanny, Morning Star, and others lie. 

There are but few companies formed for operating in Battle Mountain district. 
The principal are the Emerson and the Austin companies. These are unincor- 
porated. 

The Emerson Companij. — The Emerson Company is composed of General 
W. S. Rosecrans, G. W. Emerson, William Plumhof, and others. The company 
owns the Morning Star, Henrietta, Surprise, Fanny, President, Trojan and Cap- 
itol ledges, and extensions on some others. Upon those named, the location 
upon each is from 1,400 to 1,600 feet, and the veins are from 10 to 30 feet in 
width. All are developed to the extent of a cut of from 5 to 10 feet in depth 
crossing the vein from side to side. By this means the width of each vein has 
been ascertained, and the character of the ore shown. The gangue is quartz and 
spar intermixed with nodules and numerous veins of red oxide of copper. These 
veins are of various thicknesses, from a narrow filament to several inches through, 
and run irregularly through the mass of the vein. They contain native copper ; 
also considerable silver. The mass of the rock will require crushing and con- 
centrating for profitable mining and exportation. This set of mines is at the 
northern end of Battle mountain, in the neighborhood of Long canon. The 
surveyed route of the Pacific railroad passes about two and a half miles north 
from the locations, and as this great road is expected to be completed to this point 
before che close of another year it enhances the prospective value of the property. 

Tlie Austin Compamj. — The Austin Company owns the Troy, Maj'flower, 
Blue Bell, and other veins in the district, some of which are at Copper canon 
and others at Long canon. The developments on the Troy consist of an exca- 
vation some 12 feet in width and about 15 feet in depth, showing the size and 
character of the vein. It is estimated that one-fomth of the vein is composed of 
red oxide of copper having 40 per cent, of metal. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 413 

Upon other claims some work has been done, the general aim being merely 
to hold possession of the property, awaiting the construction of the railroad. 

Ravenswood DistPvICT. — Eavenswood, Lander county, situated but 15 miles 
northwest from Austin, was one of the earliest districts organized in the Keese 
Eiver country, having been formed in the first year of the discovery of silver here. 
It is in the same range as Battle mountain, though the latter is almost separated 
by a low depression, yet it is the northern terminus of the Shoshone mountains. 
The veins of Eavenswood, which were located for silver, being found rich only 
in copper, disappointed the locators, and as a consequence the district has been 
abandoned. It contains veins which assay as high as 40 to 50 per cent, of copper, 
and contains silver and gold. The district is well situated for economical work- 
ing, bordering on the valley of the Eeese river, and is toleraT)ly well supplied 
with timber. Like many others it awaits the coming of the railroad, cheap trans- 
portation and subsistence. 

Big Ceeek District. — The Big Creek district. Lander county, was the 
second organized in the Toiyabee mountains, and it seemed likely at one time to 
eclipse everything else. A village was built, with post, express and telegraph 
offices connecting with Austin, with schools, courts, stores and mills, and its 
prosperity and stability seemed beyond a doubt. Veins were found appearing 
full of metal, but upon further trial their value consisted in copper, wliich was 
not profitable to work, and interest in the district died away. Now no attention 
is paid to the mines. It is situated on the western slope of the Toiyabee moun- 
tains, twelve miles south of Austin. The creek is a small mountain stream, 
affording sites for water or steam-power mills. It flows through a deep canon, 
along which are some good farms and gardens. If the district has not proved 
remunerative to the miner, it has furnished pleasant homes for the husbandman. 

AVashington District. — South of Austin 28 miles, in Nye county, and on 
the western slope of the Toiyabee, is Washington district, organized in 1863, then 
and the subsequent year the scene of busy operations. The mineral is an argen- 
tiferous galena, abundant in quantity. None who have examined the mines with 
attention can hesitate to decide that they possess value. The veins are from 4 
to 16 feet in width, and regular in theh formation. Attempts have been made 
to reduce the ores, but owing to want of skill on the part of the operators they 
have not been successful. A great number of veins Avere located, a pretty village 
was built, and hopes of prosperity were entertained, but the district following the 
usual course has become almost deserted. Its mineral resources, however, may 
yet be advantageously developed. 

Marys viLLE District. — South of Washington about 15 miles, in Nye county, 
is Marysville district, organized in the same j'ear and possessing many similar 
characteristics. Numerous claims were here located, and great expectations were 
once entertained. It is now entirely deserted except by a few farmers who cul- 
tivate the soil of the valleys, irrigating it by the streams which run down from 
the mountain. The district is well watered and timbered, and offers advantages 
to the settler. 

The Totabee Mountains. — On the eastern slope of the Toiyabee, and 
south of Austin, were organized during the summer of 1863 a number of districts, 
covering that side of tlie mountain almost continuously for a distance of 75 miles. 
Throughout its southern extent the mountain rises from the valley of Eeese river 
on the west and Smoky valley on the east, and attains an altitude of 2,000 to 
5,000 feet above them. From valley to valley through the base of the mountain 
the distance is from 7 to 10 miles. From its high peaks and through its deeply 
chasmed sides run many streams of water affording good sites for mills. 

Smoe;t Valley District. — Of the numerous districts organized on the eastern 
slope of the mountain that of Smoky Valley was among the fii'st. It is in Lander 
county, 12 miles south of Austin, and includes what Avere once the busy little 
hamlets of Geneva and Clinton. Through it run in deep canons Birch and 



414 RESOUECES OF STATES AND TEERITORIES 

"Willow creeks and several smaller rivulets, all of wliicli are lost in tlie valley. 
Tliere have been many locations of mines made in the district, but they have 
been generally neglected until the present year. Latterly labor has been prose- 
cuted upon -the Smoky Valley ledge, Avhich has developed, at the depth of 200 
feet, a lode or series of veins 50 feet in thickness, of which about 20 feet contain 
pay streaks of ore. Average specimens assay $60 to $150 per ton. The upper 
part of the lode has proved quite barren, but the results obtained from below 
give encouragement to the miners. In this district the lodes are generally large, 
and exhibit themselves in some instances for miles in length upon the surface. 
They are situated conveniently for mining, and the district possesses advan- 
tages of wood, water, and arable land for carrying on cheaply extensive opera- 
tions. 

Saxta Fe District. — South of Smoky Valley district, in the same county, 
is that of Santa Fe, 18 miles from Austin. It is composed of high peaks, pre- 
cipitous ridges, and deep, rocky canons. The bare rocks of the ridges and canons 
expose to view the white ledges of quartz in great numbers. A feature in the 
mineralogy of the district is the presence of gold in considerable quantities in 
some of the veins. Notwithstanding the undoubted value of the veins, however, 
in both gold and silver, no successful mining has yet been carried on. 

BuKKER Hill axd Summit Districts. — Bunker Hill and Summit districts. 
Lander county, occupy both sides of Big Smoky creek, and are 20 miles south 
of Austin. Ore paying from fifty to some hundreds of dollars per ton has been 
mined; but the veins have been found broken and irregular, and but little success 
has attended mining operations. This is generally attributed to improper man- 
agement, and lack of scientific knowledge of the business of mining and the 
reduction of ores. The stream is one of the largest flowing out of this moun- 
tain range, and affords water-power sufficient for a number of extensive mills. 
Some failures have retarded progress in what appears a superior district. This 
cannot long continue, for where nature has done so much by offering valuable 
minerals, Iniilding material, and inexpensive power, a pleasant climate and a rich 
soil, man will sooner or later take advantage of it and reap the reward. 

Blue Springs District. — Blue Springs district, in Nye county, 30 miles 
south of Austin, is so named from a number of deep springs or ponds which lie 
in the valley at the foot of the mountains. It contains veins of quartz of large 
size, reputed to be rich in silver, but developments upon them are so slight that 
their value is not really known. 

Smoky Valley Salt Field. — Near Blue Springs, in the great Smoky valley, 
is an extensive field of 2,000 acres of salt lands, from which is obtained most 
of the salt used in Eastern Nevada both for domestic purposes and the reduction 
of ores. Upon this salt field, as upon some others with which the State abounds, 
the salt rises as an efflorescence, half an inch or more in thickness, npon the 
surface of the ga-ound, from which it is gathered. A slight rain drives the salt 
beneath the surface, but under the influence of the sun it soon reappears. Hun- 
dreds of tons are obtained from this field annualh^, and the supply coming from 
deep springs seems to be inexhaustible. It is furnished for the nse of the mills 
at from $30 to $50 per ton. When it is known that salt in large quantities is 
essential to the reduction of silver ores, the beneficence of a Divine Providence 
in furnishing it in such vast deposits and at convenient localities throughout the 
country can be appreciated. 

North Twin Biver District. — Forty miles south of Austin, in Nye county, 
is the North Twin River district. Although this region was examined and many 
c'airas located early in the settlement of the country, it was not considered of 
importance until recently, when work npon some of the veins has proved them 
to be of large size and great value. Deej) canons, with running streams, open 
to the plain, offering access to the mines and sites for reduction mills. 

The La Fkifa M'mmg Company, owning mines in this district, is organized 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 415 

niider the laws of Pennsylvania. Its chief stockholders are residents of Keading. 
This company owns the Twin Ophirs, the William Bigler, and other veins sit- 
uated in Park canon. Some of the veins are large, and have shown bodies of 
good pay ore. Work upon one of the Twin Ophirs has developed a chimney or 
mass of ore of a very singular character, being chiefly iron and resembling steel, 
but containing from $70 to $150 per ton in silver. A mill is in course of con- 
struction, which, in a few months, will probably add something to the stream of 
bullion already beginning to flow from the districts bordering the Smoky valley. 
It is mainly built of stone, mth furnaces and chimney stack of brick. These 
materials are conveniently obtained in the neighborhood. It will contain 10 
stamps of about 700 pounds each, cnishing the rock dry and in a condition for 
roasting. The property of the company is managed by G. B. Montgomery. 

TJw Buclceyc ^Lining Comjmny is a New York company, and, nnder the super- 
intendence of Mr. Stephen Kidd, is developing the Buckeye mine, situated in 
Summit caiion. The vein was discovered and located in 1865. The claim 
consists of 1,400 feet of the lode running north from the caiion. The vein is 
encased in limestone, and, although it sometimes narrows down to a mere clay 
seam in the rock, it appears to be a true fissure vein. Its general width is five 
feet, occasionally reaching to seven. It has been developed by an incline fol- 
lowing the dip of the ledge, which is Avesterly 0)5°, to the depth of 100 feet, and 
Ijy dillerent levels several hundred feet north and south. From these excava- 
tions a quantity of ore has been taken which has yielded, at the Austin mills, 
$106 per ton. The company has located, nnder the laws of Nevada, 800 acres 
of woodland, mill-sites, &c. Neither lands nor mines are entered under any law 
of Congress, nor are any lands or mines throughout this region. The lands arc 
nnsmTcyed, and there is no land office in eastern Nevada. The laws of the 
United States give permission to occupy the mines subject to the local rules of 
miners. Survey and purchase appears to them a useless expense, serviceable 
only to the sm^v^ej^ors and land officers. 

In Summit caiion are other claims, as the Scottish Chief, which is an extension 
of the Buckeye south of the caiion. This has been but slightly developed, 
having a shaft 40 feet in depth ; its real worth is therefore known only from the 
greater explorations on the 13uckeye. A short distance to the southwest is the 
Canada vein. This appears on the surface to be about nine feet in width, but 
the explorations upon it are not sufficient, it being encased in limestone, to 
determine its extent and character. From the surface several tons of ore have 
been taken, which give promise of worth. 

Twi:n^ River District. — The Twin River district, Nye county, is 50 miles 
south of Austin, on the eastern slope of the Toiyabee range, and is at present 
regarded as one of the most important districts south of Austin. It receives its 
name from two pretty streams on the southern border, which, flowing through 
deep and rugged caiions, enter the valley near each other, and continixing parallel 
for some miles sink in the plain. The characteristics of the districl; are its mg- 
gedness, high and precipitous mountains, deep caiions, and its geological forma- 
tion being granite and slate, while the districts north of it are of limestone. The 
principal mines are situated in Ophir caiion. These were discovered in 1863 by 
S. Boulerond and a party of Frenchmen, who located several veins, but did not 
publish to the world their discovery nor do much towards developing their prop- 
erty. The year following the caiion was entered by George H. AVillard and 
others, ledges located, a district formed, and laws made. From that date the 
district has been somewhat noted. In entering the canon from Smoky valley, 
one feels almost forbidden to advance, so towering and precipitous are the rocks 
on either side, which appear to close the narrow pass ; but winding along at the 
base of the clifls is now a well-constructed road. Following this a mile or more 
the narrow gorge of granite is passed and a caiion of more gently sloping sides, a 
slate formation, is reached. The granite is generally barren of soil, but upon 



416 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

the summits of tlie ridges a few low and dwarfed \nnon trees are foimd, wliicli are 
cut for fuel and with great labor brouglit to the brink of the precipice and 
tumbled into the canon below, whence it is hauled to its place of consumption. 
Fuel is difficult to obtain, and costs about $10 per cord. At the present date a 
mill is in operation, and a village called Toiyabee, of 300 inhabitants, has been 
built. 

The Ophir. — The first vein noticed in passing up the canon is the Ophir. 
This was discovered and claimed by S. Boulerond and Company in 18G3, and 
is still owned by the same parties. It is a large vein, showing chiefly white 
quartz, but deposits of good ore have been found in it. The claim consists of 
2,400 feet along the ledge. A shaft has been sunk to the depth of 60 feet, from 
which a small quantity of ore was obtained, worth at the rate of $500 per ton. 
The developments upon the mine are very slight. 

Tlie Orphce, Central Favorite, and numerous other claims have been slightly 
developed, but have not yet been productive. 

The Murphy is the only developed and productive mine in this neighborhood, 
and its success has given celebrity to the district. It was located by G. H. 
Willard, John Murphy, Jo. Patty, and others, in 18G4, and is 1,000 feet in length. 
Its course is north and south, dipping to the cast at an angle of 46'', and the 
lode is about 20 feet in thickness. It has been developed by an incline 130 feet 
in depth, from which levels have been run and ore extracted, worth about $130 
per ton. It appears from the working that the ore is not continuous throughout 
the vein, but exists in chimneys of one to seven feet in thickness, and from 100 
to 150 feet broad, with nearly a corresponding interval of barren rock. These 
chimneys are inclined, having a dip to the north of about 30°. Although much 
valuable ore has l)een extracted, a map of the mine, showing its whole size and 
the excavations made, indicate that but a small portion is touched. There are 
41 men employed in the mine, w'orking eight hours each, at $4 per day, and 
keeping up the labor without intermission. The miners are usually natives of 
Cornwall, England. The hoisting of water and ore is done by steam power. 

Tlie Murphy Mill, belonging to the Twin River Mining Company, is a 
substantial structure of stone, having 20 stamps and coiTesponding machinery, 
driven by an engine of 95 horse-power. The ore is brought from the mine, a 
few hundred feet distant, in cars. The first process is to pass it through a 
Blake's rock breaker, which will in a few hours break sufficient rock into frag- 
ments of less than a cubic inch in size to supply the stamps for 24 hours. This 
eftects a saving of $2 per ton in the cost of crushing the ore. From the breaker 
the ore is placed upon a large pan or dryer, which is lieated by the gases passing 
from the roasting furnaces to the smoke-stack, and is thoroughly dried. It is 
then ready for the stamps. Of these there are 20, weighing 850 pounds each, 
and they crush 16 tons per day fine enough to pass through a No. 60 screen, or 
a screen with 3,000 holes to the square inch. Falling from the screens into a 
light bin, it is removed into cars standing on a track passing over the tops of the 
roasting furnaces, and is thus transported to the furnaces, of which there are 
eight, capable of roasting 16 tons in 24 hours. Seven to nine hundred pounds 
of ore mixed with a certain quantity of salt, according to the composition of 
the ore, varying from eight to fifteen per cent., constitutes a charge, and this is 
roasted from five to seven hours, being constantly stirred. It is then taken to 
the amalgamating room, in which are six pans taking one ton of the roasted 
pulp, now mixed with water, at a charge. Here the silver, which in the furnaces 
was changed from its native condition to a chloride, is again changed to metallic 
silver, and is amalgamated with quicksilver. The pulp is agitated and ground 
by revolving iron mullers for about six hours, when it is drawn off into settlers, 
of which there are six, where more water is added, and, after several hours' 
agitation, the quicksilver bearing the silver is drawn oft', the pulp allowed to run 
to waste, and the silver taken out. This, after being strained and pressed in 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



417 



leather bags, exhausting the quickr-ilver as far as possible, is placed in a close 
retort, and the remaining quicksilver expelled by heat. The crude bullion 
remaining is then taken to the smelting room, where it is melted and run into 
ingots, ready for the assayer and f(u- commerce. The establishment is very com- 
plete, and presents an imposing appearance. The officers of the company having 
charge and carrying on the works, are R. B. Cantield, general agent ; H. M. 
Grant, bookkeeper ; H. Richards, mining superintendent ; Charles V. Baesler, 
assayer ; and Alonzo Monroe, engineer. In working tiic mill at full capacity, 
41 men are required. Besides those in the mine and mill are blacksmiths, ore 
assorters, and Avood choppers, making 100 men employed. In one month 417 
tons of ore were milled, producing $36,86.5. The assay of the ore was over 
$100 per ton. At the present date the mill is working to its full capacity, and 
better results than formerly are obtained. 

The McBonaJd mine. — The Murphy and McDonald are locations upon the 
same lode, the first extending from the canon northwardly and the latter south 
of it. It is anticipated that they are of equal value, although the McDonald is 
undeveloped. Preparations are making, under the superintendence of John II. 
Boalt, for a New York company to commence explorations and developing the 
mine. 

These mines constitute the basis of support to a busy and prosperous little 
village, called Toiyabee City, of about 300 inhabitants. This place is connected 
Avith Austin by a tri-Aveekly stage, carrying the United States mail once a week. 
The distance is 55 miles, and the time of passage about nine hours. From the 
valley to the toAvn is about two and a half miles along the canon, and through 
this distance a road has been constructed at a cost of about $6,000. The work 
has been very heavy, and under the circumstances a good road is constructed, 
although its grade at some places is as great as 10"^. The road continues 
through this canon over the summit of the Toiyabee mountain, and forms a con- 
venient avenue for summer travel, but the passage is generally impeded by snow 
during the winter.* 

* The books of the county assessor, according to the Silver Bend Reporter, give the fol- 
lowing returns of bullion and yield per ton of the mines of Nye county for the quarter ending 
September 30, made under oath. The amounts are for coin : 



Kamc. 



Twin River Company. 

Murphy Wine 

Belmont Company 

Transylvania, 1 

Belmont Company 

Transylvania, 2 



800 
730 
21 



$107, 544 00 

28, 856 88 

837 OG 



Amount 
per ton. 



$143 43 
39 33 
39 86 



Following are the returns of small lots of ore from this county, worked at mills in the 
vicinity of Austin, and forwarded by the assessor of Lander ceunty. We merely give the 
number of pounds of ore worked and the gross product : 

Pounds. 

Indian Jim, Hot Creek district 1,915 

Old Dominion do , 3,630 

Gazelle do 11,314 

Desert Queen, Reveille district 3,083 

WildRose do 2,277 

North America do 1, 172 



Manhattan do 2,63'J 

Lord Byron do 2,254 

Button do GOO 

Regan do 2, 792 

Lexington do '. 2,764 

Peta, Union district 1,971 

Holman, Union district 2, 031 

The books of the county assessor show the following annual product of two of the leading 
mines of Nye county: From October 1 to December 31, 186G, the Buel mill (now the Bel- 

27 



Gross yield. 
$90 SO 
206 24 
753 30 

474 Se- 
ng 69 

68 75 

292 01 

106 85 

8 84 

30 tiS 
235 00 

63 46- 
295 34 



418 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

South Twin TtivEK, Hot Springs, El Doeado, A2f d Peavine Districts.— 
The districts of South Twin River, Hot Springs, El Dorado, and Peavine, all 
in Nye count}', continue in the order in which they are named to near where the 
mountain, -which we have traced for 150 miles, falls away into the plain. Although 
but slightly explored, the opinion is expressed that the mines in the southern 
part of the'Toiyabee range will equal those of other parts, and that this exten- 
sive country ofiers an inviting field to the explorer and the capitalist. 

Smoky Valley. — The great Smoky valley, traversed by Fremont in 1845, 
who mapped Big Smoky creek and Twin rivers, is worthy of special mention. 
In the centre of it are found remarkable springs of boiling water, throwing a 
large and constant stream, in w'hich meat and vegetables are readily cooked, 
and tea and coffee quickly prepared for use. The basin of the spring is from 20 
to 30 feet in diameter, and the fountain of boiling w^ater rises in the centre, a 
constant column ascending by its subterranean force several feet above the sur- 
face. There arc several smaller springs in the neighborhood, one of wliich 
furnishes cold water. The soil about them is fertile, and the climate pleasant 
and healthy. 

The fields of salt in the northern part of the valley have already been men- 
tioned. Throughout it are found good agricultural lands. The climate is more 
agreeable than generally prevails in Nevada, without extremes of heat or cold. 
Snow seldom falls and frosts are never severe, although there are localities where 
frosts have occurred as early as September, sufficient to blight certain species of 
vegetation. The valley continues, although slight elevations divide it into dif- 
ferent basins, into the desert upon the southern borders of the State. In it are 
other vast fields of salt, and beds of salphur, alum, and soda, and bordering 
upon it are the mountains of San Antonio and Silver Peak. These are isolated 
and singular in their formation, and appear as if thrown into position by some 
violent convulsion of nature. The mining districts of this region are among 
the most important of the State. 

San Antokio District, comprising the mountain of that name, is situated 
about 20 miles southeast of the southern terminus of the Toiyabee mountains, 
and about 90 miles from Austin. Several companies are engaged in mining 
here with some success, and ore is extracted which returns from reduction an 
average of $200 per ton. 

The Libert >j fiiine, owned by George Seitz, has been continuously worked 
during the present year. It is, so far, the most extensively worked mine in the 

mont Company's) reduced 904 tons of ore, producing bullion of the value of $.52,712 24, 
being an average per ton of $58 31 ; the three months following — January, February, and 
March, 1867 — 554 tons and a fraction were reduced, yielding $33,041 39, or $59 G4 per ton; 
the next quarter, 125 tons, 1,339 pounds, producing !|(i,903 02, $54 93 per ton; and 676tonb, 
1,010 pounds, which produced $26,439 77, or $39 08 per ton. The amounts added to the 
production of the quarter ending on the 30th of September, of 736 tons, yielding $28,856 88 — 
• $39 33 per ton, and 21 tons, yielding $837 06 — $39 86 per ton, swells the total product of 
this mine for the past year to $148,790 36 in coin. The aggregate number of tons of ore 
worked is a fraction over 3,917 — averaging very nearly $00 per ton. It was reduced in a 
10-stamp mill, at best but an inferior one, by the wet crushing process, by which it is not 
claimed that more than about 65 per cent, of the silver is saved. In connection with the fact 
that the mine from which the ore was obtained is practically inexhaustible, and can be made 
to furnish almost any amount of ore, the above figures will furnish a basis upon which to 
estimate its great value. During the same period, the Murphy mine, of the Twin River 
Company, situated iu Ophir cafion, as is shown by the books of the assessor, has yielded as 
follows: lirst quarter — 626^ tons, averaging $132 49 per ton, $83,007 96; second quarter — 
1,16H tons, averaging $84 18 per ton, $97,775 08; third quarter — 8044- tons, averaging 
$92 94 per ton, $74,863 17; fourth quarter— 800 tons, averaging $134 43 per ton, $107,544, 
imaking a total of $363,190 21 in coin in a twelvemonth. The aggregate quantity of ore 
worked is 3,393^ tons, and the average yield per ton a fraction over $107. We are informed 
that the Murphy mine is now in a condition to supply ore for another mill of equal capacity 
as the one in use, a number of levels having already been run which disclose hundreds of 
feet in length along the vein, and for a depth of near 200 feet a compact mass of solid ore 
some 10 or 12 feet thick. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 419 

district, and bids fair to be remunerative. A depth of 200 feet has been reached 
and no water obtained. The mountain is dry, barren, and broken. A few miles 
to the northwest are the Indian springs, where two small quartz mills have been 
constructed. As more vigorous work is now prosecuted upon the mines of this 
district than formerly ; they will probably soon take the rank in public esteem 
to which their value entitles them. 

Silver Peak, Red Mountain, Palmetto, Lida, and Edmokton Dis- 
tricts. — The districts of Silver Peak, Red Mountain, Palmetto, Lida, and 
Edmonton comprise the southwestern part of the territory which has been pros- 
pected by people who have made Austin their base of operations. 

Silver Peak and Red Mountain are contiguous, lying about 150 miles south 
by west from Austin. Silver Peak is a small, precipitous mountain, through 
which, lying at a low angle, cuts the Vanderbilt vein, cropping on all sides. 
The value of this vein has been very highly estimated. Other good veins exist 
in the district. 

In the valley skirting the eastern base of the mountain is an extensive salt 
field, covering an area of 30 square miles, and capable of fm'nishing an unlimited 
supply of salt. 

The Re<,l Mountain district, a few miles east of Silver Peak, is distinguished 
for its production of gold. 

Great Salt Basin Company. — The mines of these two districts are chiefly 
owned by a single company, the Great Salt Basin G. & S. M. Company, organ- 
ized by S. B. Martin and John W. Harker. They have already a mill of 10 
stamps, which has produced considerable bullion. The company is about to 
erect two other mills of greatly increased capacity. JMining is to be canied on 
systematically^ The superintendent is Mr. J. E. Clayton, a competent mining 
engineer, and the nominal capital $3,000,000. The company owns many mines 
in these districts, the principal of which are the Vanderbilt, Pocatillo, and Sisson. 
The bullion obtained at the mill from the Vanderbilt ore is worth $2 per ounce, 
while that of Red Mountain is chiefly gold. 

The developments in Palmetto district have proved several of the veins to be 
large and valuable. Gold-bearing quartz is also found, which indicates an abun- 
dance of that metal. The district derives its name from a species of date tree, 
which was mistaken by the discoverers for the palmetto. 

Columbus, Volcano, Clarendon, Paradise, Pilot, Mammoth, Union, 
and North Union Districts. — These districts are generally classed as 
belonging to eastern Nevada or Reese river, although they are in the western 
half of the State. Each has peculiarities, Avhich to describe in detail would be 
beyond the limits of this report. 

Clarendon district contains silver-bearing veins, the character of the ore 
being the same as that of Silver Bend, southeast of Austin. It has a pleasant 
village of about 80 inhabitants, with families, a school, and church society, 
indications of the respectability and good order of the community. 

Volcano district is peculiar in its formation, and is supposed to possess quick- 
silver and coal mines, as well as gold, copper, and silver, but is most familiarly 
known from its fossils, which are rare and beautiful. 

Paradise district receives its name from its pleasant location, and its abundant 
wood, water, and vegetation. 

These are situated from 90 to 150 miles southwest of Austin. 

Mammoth district is situated 65 miles southwest of Austin, and its condi- 
tion is promising. The Mount Vernon Company are prosecuting an extensive 
system of works, which will develop the mines and prove the value of the dis- 
trict. The Hamilton Gold and Silver Mining Company have several excellent 
mines in this district, but they are not yet developed to any considerable extent. 

Union district lies on the western slope of the Shoshone mountains, the first 
range west of Reese river, and is about 55 miles southwesterly fi'om Austin. 



420 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

It contains ledges of undoubted value and faciKties for the reduction of ore, such 
as an abundance of wood and water. The district was early brought into notice, 
yet its progress has been slow and its jDroduction of bullion slight. It is inter- 
esting from the beauty and abundance of geodes, valuable to the jeA\eller and 
lapidary, found in it. Chalcedory, agate, jasper, and other precious stones also 
abound. 

North Union district is almost entirely undeveloped, but is favorably regarded 
by those who are acquainted with its mines and resources. 

New Pass Disteict lies almost directly west of Austin, 25 miles distant. It 
has been organized two years and is yet undeveloped. Mineralogists and engineers 
have given it a partial examination and have pronounced favorable opinions 
respecting its resom'ces. The predominant metal is gold. The veins are numer- 
ous and well situated for mining. 

We may now tm-n to that portion of Nevada southeast from Austin. This 
until within the past year was to the general public a terra incognita, and believed 
to be, as it was represented upon the maps, an inhospitable desert, treeless and 
verdureless, and barely subsisting the few miserable Indians who wandered over 
its barren plains. But the prospector at last ventured upon its exploration, and 
the results have been unexpectedly important. A country of vast extent has 
been unveiled to the world ; the rocks seamed with veins of silver, and the valleys 
abounding in valuable grasses. Not repelling the explorer, it invited him on, 
until at last the chorography of the country has been made known. The west- 
ern slope of the mountain bordering Smoky valley on the east had been slightly 
explored, and the districts of Jefferson, Manhattan and Santa Clara formed. 

Under the general belief prevailing that silver-bearing ledges found elsewhere 
than in the Toiyabee were exceptional, little attention Avas paid to the discoveries 
reported to have been made in these districts until subsequent to the discovery 
of the ledges of Silver Bend. Since then more attention has been paid to them, 
and they are now found to be of some importance. Little, however, has been 
done toAvards the development of any mine in them. 

Silver Bend. — A section of country southeast of Austin bears the general 
name of Silver Bend. It Avas first entered by prospectors at an earty day in the 
settlement of eastern Nevada, but no discoveries of mineral Avere made until 
October, 1865, Avlien ledges cropping out in massive proportions and shoAving sil- 
ver-bearing ore Avere found. But little Avork Avas done, or attention paid to these, 
until May, 1866, Avhen Dr. William Geller, now general agent of the Combi- 
nation S. M. Company of Ncav York, was attracted by the statement, and paid 
the locality a A^isit. He Avas at once conA'inced of its AA'orth, and purchased the 
interest of the locators of the Highbridge ledge, being 3,000 feet in length, for 
the sum of $24,000 in currenc3^ Soon afterwards AVork Avas commenced under 
the superintendence of L. B. Moore, Avho is noAV carrying on the company's 
operations. Mr. D. E. Buel and others subsequently \-isited the district, and 
reports of its Avealth AA'cre published in the Reese River Reveille, AAith descrip- 
tions of the mines and surrounding country. From that time it began to attract 
attention from all parts of the State. People gathered in the vicinity; the terra 
incognita of the southeast Avas explored and many districts organized. The toAvn 
of Belmont Avas built, Avhich is noAV a flourishing village and the shire tOA\^l of 
Nye county. The folloAving particulars of the mines liaA'e been obtained chiefly 
from Mr. J. E. INIoloney of Belmont. He says of the 

Philadelphia Disteict. — This district, erroneously called " Silver Bend," 
is situated about 85 miles south by east £fom Austin, on the eastern slope of the 
Smoky range of mountains, in the county of Nye. The principal mines, as yet 
developed, are situated doAvn toAvards the eastern base of the mountain, near 
Monitor A'alley. It was organized in 1865 AA'ith laAVS similar to thoseof Reese Ri\'er 
district. The facilities for building are good, the prefeiTcd material being stone, 
but brick of a fine quality is made in the neighborhood. Fire-wood exists in such 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 421 

abundance tliat mills are furnisLed with fuel at the rate of 84 50 per cord. Tim- 
ber suitable for purposes of building exists in the surrounding hills^ and several 
saw-mills find profitable employment and a good market for their products. The 
better quality of lumber, however, is brought from the Sienva Nevada, near 250 
miles distant. A more convenient source of supply would be the White Pine 
range of mountains, lying about 75 miles to the east. There a species of fir tree 
grows from which an excellent quality of lumber could be obtained. Elsewhere 
throughout the State, with slight exceptions, the forests arc of piiion, cedar or juni- 
per, mountain mahogany and Cottonwood, with a few other varieties, all of a 
dwarfish character, and although excellent for fuel, make very poor lumber. It, 
however, answers many purposes, and in the district and neighborhood are five 
saw-mills engaged in its manufacture. Water is found in quantities sufficient 
to supply the demand, through the medium of natural springs, some of which 
furnish considerable streams of water. Alread}^ water has been obtained in mines 
and wells, and there can 1)0 no doubt that deep mining will supply an abund- 
ance of the element for a largo population and an unlimited amount of steam 
machinery. 

The geological formation is of slate, with a stratification running north and 
south and dipping to the east at a high angle, and the veins follow the stratifi- 
cation. A large number of veins have been discovered and located, the principal 
of which are the Transylvania, Highbridge, El Dorado, and Achilles. 

In the district is the village of Belmont, the shire town of Nye count3^ It is 
situated in or about the centre of the mineral belt, on a flat through which flows 
a stream of water. At this point a spur of mountains branches off" from the 
Smoky range and trends to the southeast, dividing the valley into two parts — 
that on the north called jMonitor, and that on the south called Ralston valley. 
In this spur, and east of the town, are the principal mines of the district. The 
site opens out southward into Ralston valley, presenting a fine view of the 
country south, and the range of mountains in which are the districts of Manhat- 
tan, Argentoro and others. Though this place is scarcely a year old, it presents 
the appearance of a well-established centre of trade, having substantial stone 
and brick fire-proof buildings, and many good frame ones. A weekly mail route 
is established from Austin to this place, and is extended on to Pahranagat. 
Between Belmont and Austin the mail is carried in a four-horse stage, which 
runs tri-weekly, and carries Wells, Fargo & Company's express every trip. The 
express, therefore, does the chief letter-carrying, its superior convenience entirely 
eclipsing the weekly mail. A weekly newspaper, the " Silver Bend Reporter," 
is published, and is evidence of the enlightened state of society peopling this 
distant frontier. Banks, assay offices, schools, &:c., are established, with other 
institutions and business that go to make up a flemishing town. 

The Combination Gold and Silver Mining Comjpany, already spoken of, is a 
New York organization, owning mines and other projDcrty in different parts of 
eastern Nevada. In Philadelphia district it has a claim of 3,000 feet upon 
the Transylvania ledge, which is so developed as to leave no doubt of its 
worth. This is the most northerly portion of the vein yet developed. An 
incline has been sunk on the ledge to a depth of 170 feet, where it shows a width 
of 22 feet inside of casings, with a large body of ore. It is estimated that the 
vein will average by the wet process of working, $150 per ton. This seems a 
very high estimate and needs the corroboration of thorough trial. The vein is 
pierced by two tunnels at a depth of 120 feet, and separated l)y a distance of 700 
feet, from the termini of Vvhich levels have been run north and south, in all about 
SOO feet, thus to some extent proving the ledge and preparing it for mining. 

The company have in course of construction a mill of 40-stamp capacity. It 
is rapidly approaching completion, and will soon be in operation. For the better 
working of the mine a perpendicular shaft is sunk, which will pierce the ledge 
at a depth of 600 feet. The sinking is now in progress. 



422 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Belmont Silver Mining Company is composed of Messrs. J. A. IMcDonaLl, 
J. W. Gasliwiler and S. M. Buck. The mining' property lies soutli of the Com- 
bination Company's and joins it, being- on the same ledge. It was fonnerly 
known as Buel's Highbridge, having been owned and developed by Mr. D. E. 
Bnel. This gentleman, when attention was first drawn to the district, pm'chased 
the location, 300 feet, for the sum of $9,000. Tliis was in June, 1866, and he 
immediately commenced the erection of a 10-stamp mill, putting it into operation 
on the 1st of September following. The mill was prepared only for wet crush- 
ing, or working ores without roasting, and was expected to save only 60 per cent, 
of the silver contained in the ore. It was very incomplete, having for some 
months only the machinery standing, without roof or enclosing building ; yet in 
about seven months it turned out upwards of $100,000 in bullion. The ores 
worked were chiefly from or near the sm'face. Since it has gone into the posses- 
sion of its present owners, extensive developments have been undertaken inider 
the direction of S. M. Buck, civil and mining- engineer. The results are said to 
be satisfactory. At the present time the company is constructing- a 20-stamp 
mill which they hope to have in operation before the close of the year. The 
same parties arc also o^vners of a claim of 400 feet, known as the Wood & Buel 
mine, on the Transylvania No. 1, a parallel vein to the Transylvania No. 2, or 
Highbridge, and 100 feet from it. There is some difierence of opinion respect- 
ing these veins — whether they are really two distinct veins, or one a break from 
the other. Their parallel course and great similarity of gangue and ore impress 
many with the belief that explorations will prove them to be but one lode. Upon 
the claim last mentioned some work has been done, and a depth of 75 feet 
attained on it, where it is found to be from six to ten feet in width. The ore 
taken out has been reduced at the mill, and is said to have produced from $70 
to $100 per ton. A less return is given in the report published by the assessor. 

Tlte McAleer Company is a company formed in Frederick City, Maryland, 
and has been pre\"ious]y mentioned as the Continental, owning property in the 
Cortez district. Its mining property was the location of Moore and Martin, and 
comprises 153 feet on the great Transylvania vein, next south of the Wood and 
Buel location. Since it has been the property of the McAleer Company it has 
been under the management of D. T. Elmore, who has prosecuted work on the 
mine to the depth of 140 feet, at Avhich depth the vein is from to 10 feet in 
width, nearly the entire body being ore estimated to be worth from $60 to $130 
per ton. Developments are still going on in preparation for a mill of 20 stamp 
capacity, now in course of construction, and which it is expected will be in ope- 
ration this year. The mine, though less in length of vein than the others, is none 
the less valuable in proportion, and like the others is well situated for working'. 

The Silver Bend Company owns the nest location south on the vein, and is 
locally known as the Childs and Canfield. The claim extends 2,000 feet along 
the vein, and the developments show it to be similar in size and quality of ore 
to the others previously mentioned. An incline shaft has been sunk to the depth 
of 115 feet, and a level run 150 feet along the vein, proving it j^ermanent and 
valuable tliroughout. At a point 800 feet south of the incline mentioned another 
was sunk to the depth of 105 feet, and levels run north and south, from which 
100 tons of ore worked at the Belmont mill (wet process) yielded $91 per ton. 

These mines are all on one ledge, and jjroduce good ores. 

Most writers stop when the mines of the Transylvania are described, not 
thinking that others are worthy of note, but an examination reveals the fact that 
others of a promising character exist. 

Tlte El JDorado lies about 1,000 feet west of the Transylvania, and parallel 
to it. This vein was discovered in the early settlement of the place. It is now 
owned by Leon, Mullen, Singleterrj-, and 13rown. An incline shaft has l)een 
sunk upon it to a depth of 70 feet, developing a vein 8 to 10 feet in Avidth, from 
which pay ore is obtained. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



42a 



The Independence and Arizona lie north of' the El Dorado, and are supposed 
to be on the same vein. They are not much developed, but being on the El 
Dorado vein are esteemed valuable. 

North of Belmont one mile is the Silver Champion, which has produced some 
good ore. It has lately been purchased l)y T. F. White for an eastern company, 
and work will probably be commenced upon it soon. 

Adjoining this is the Silver Queen, upon which developments are progressing. 

jSTortheast of Belmont is the Silver Cord, Magnolia, and other veins, and 
southeast, near the Silver Bend Company's mine, is the Achilles. These have 
been worked to some extent and give evidence of value. 

West of Belmont is what is termed the " Spanish Belt," where numerous 
ledges are found. There are other veins and claims than those mentioned which 
may prove of value, and many which doubtless deserve the name of " wild-cat." 

OrnciAL Returns. — The official returns of Nye county have been published 
for the quarter ending June 30, 1867. The following list contains the names of 
the mines, the amount worked, and the average rate per ton : 



Name of mine. 



Murphy, (Twin river) 

Transylvania, (Silver Bend Company)... 
Transylvania No. 1, (Belmont Company) . 
Transylvania No. 3, (Belmont Company). 

Liberty, (San Antonio) 

Teutonia, (Milk Springs) 

Westfield, (Reveille) 

J. Ritter, (Reveille) 

Adriatic, (Reveille) 

Cornucopia, (Reveille) 

Wild Irishman, (Union) 

Canada, (North Twin river) 



805 
100 
076 
125 
100 
1 



Lbs. 



1,000 

633 

1,110 

1,330 



46 
1,679 
1, 320 

940 
1, 620 

296 
1,748 



Average per 
ton. 



$92 94 
66 20 
39 08 
54 93 

208 00 
56 23 

408 00 

101 73 

102 33 
Oil 37 
262 89 
367 76 



During the quarter a considerable amount of ore from Nye covmty was reduced 
at the mills of Austin, and not mentioned in the above returns. The mills 
working were the Murphy, at Twin river, 20 stamps ; the Belmont, at Belmont, 
10 stamps ; the Rigby, at San Antonio, four stamps ; and the Rutland, at Rev- 
eille, five stamps. The last reduced very little ore. 

NOETHUMBEELAND DISTRICT. — Sixty miles southeast of Austin is the dis- 
trict of Northumberland, which from recent developments shows evidences of 
value, and is attracting some attention. It lies on the eastern slope of the Smoky 
range, and on both sides of the pass through which goes the road leading from 
Austin to Belmont. The district was organized in June, 1866, and a number 
of ledges located, few of wdiicli were tested. Those now most developed are 
the Northumberland and Lady Cummings. From these 20 or more tons of ore 
have been taken and reduced at the mills of Austin, and from $70 to $150 per 
ton have been obtained. Ore of this quality is reported to be abundant, 

Danville District lies on the eastern slope of the Monitor range, being 
the next east of the Smoky range. Between the two lies Monitor valley, similar 
in its appearance and general characteristics to the Smoky valley and others 
in the eastern part of the State. The district lies directly east of Northumber- 
land, and 80 miles distant from Austin. It was organized in the summer of 
1866, and many ledges located. Of these the Vanderbilt and Silveropolis have 
furnished ores which, assaying largely, have given some notoriety to the district. 
From iirst-class ores of the Vanderbilt assays have been obtained ranging from 
8800 to $1,700 per ton, and from the Silveropolis as high as $300 and $400 per 
ton. The assayer remarks that the ores are unusually free from base metals.* 

* It must be observed that these assays afford no reliable indication of the value of a vein. 
Generally, the ores are selected. There is ore in every district and almost every mine from 
which high assays can be obtained; 'but $1,000 or $10,000 ore may exist in a worthless 
mine. — J. E. B. 



424 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The veins at tlie outcrop are from 20 inches to 12 feet in ■\vidtli. The develop- 
ments are slight, and none appear to ho in progress at the present time. The 
district is represented to lie well supplied Avith wood and water. 

Hekcules' Gate District is situated east of and about 150 miles distant 
from Austin, in the Egan range of mountains. It receives its name from a deep 
chasm cutting the mountain in two, and tln'ough which IMajor Simpson passed 
with his exploring expedition in 1859. Silver-bearing veins of good charactei 
are reported as existing, l)ut the mineral resources of the district are little known. 
Bordering on the great Steptoe valley, with numerous streams furnishing powei 
for mills and manufacturing and water for irrigation, it presents features of attrac- 
tion and value aside from its mines. Copper ore is found in small irregular veins 
running through the lime-rock or marble in some portions of the district. 

Hot Creek. — The district of Hot Creek is situated about 100 miles south- 
east from Austin, in Nj'c county. It was organized in February, 1866, and is of 
the usual dimensions, 20 miles square. It receives its name from a great natural 
curiosity, being a stream of hot water of several hundred inches in measurement, 
and running for several miles in a deep chasm through the mountains. The 
stream rises from the ground in a large boiling spring at the Avestern base of the 
Hot Creek range of nrountains, and runs eastward through a narrow pass and 
sinks in a tule marsh in the valley east of the mountain. For several hundred 
yards the water retains a high degree of heat, but being supplied by numerous 
cold springs its temperature is reduced. The water is pure, and is used for culi- 
navy purposes. The heat furnished bj' nature is highly appreciated by those 
dwelling on its banks. There is in the vaileys flanking the mountains a con- 
siderable amount of agricultural land, and experiments in cultivation have been 
made Avitli some success. The chasm, Avhich in places is but a fcAv rods wide, 
offers facilities for a road through the mountain. A town has been laid out in 
Ihe district, and is occupied by about 100 people. The geological formation is 
of limestone, slate, and porphyry, all containing silver-bearing quartz. The 
limestone appears chiefly on the surface. The moimtain rises about 1,500 feet 
above the level of the valleys, and being very precipitous, offers good opportuni- 
ties for opening mines by tunnelling. The mining claims of chief notoriety 
located in the district are the Indian Jim, 1,500 feet ; Merrimac, 1,500 iVetj Old 
Dominion, 1,400 feet; Gazelle, 1,200 feet; and the Old Joe, Keystone, Hot 
Creek, and Silver Glance. 

Old Dominion Company. — Upon the Indian Jim and Memmac some devel- 
opments have been made. These and the Old Dominion are the property of 
the Old Dominion Company, formed under the laws of Pennsylvania. The 
company is ])rosecuting work on their mines, and constructing a mill of 20 stamp 
capacity. Upon the Merrimac a shaft has been sunk to a depth of 40 feet, and 
from this a drift is run which, on the 1st of August, had penetrated the vein a 
distance of six feet, shoAving a body of ore estimated to be Avorth from $100 to 
S300 per ton. From cuts througli the vein at the surface, it is found to be 40 
feet in thickness.* It runs north and south, crossing the Hot Creek canon ; that part 
north of the canon being the Indian Jim location, and that south the Merrimac. 
The shaft pro\'es that the limestone, coA-ering the surface has only a depth of 30 
feet, and is underlaid by slate and porphyry. 

The Consolidation Compamj is a NeAv York organization, and owns veins 
throughout various parts of eastern Nevada, but the scenfes of its principal oper- 
ations are in Hot Creek district. Here it OAvns a number of veins of some prom- 
ise, though they have not been remuneratiA'C. The company has built a 10-stamp 
mill, called the Manchester. Each stamp is but 250 pounds Aveight. The mill 
has not been run successfully and is noAV idle. The chief mine of the company 

*It should be understood that veins of this widthdonotcontainpayoreall the way through. 
Generally, the ore runs in streaks or is found in pockets. The thickness of a vein, therefore, 
cannot of itself be regarded as infallable evidence of value. — J. R. B. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 425 

is tlie Kc3-st(]>ne. Upon tlie vein a, sliaft was siink 33 feet in deptli, Avhen, after 
passing a boily of pay ore, tlie walls came together and the ledge was lost. But 
slight excavations have been made to recover it, and all work of the company 
has ceased for the present. There are several other veins in the district belong- 
ing to the same company, upon Avliich work has been done, but while the pros- 
pects were encouraging, there were no profital)le results. 

The district has advantages of wood, which can be procured at $5 per cord ; 
fine water, a pleasant climate, and is suiTounded by good agricultural land. 
These, with the silver-bearing veins, will probably, at no distant day, bring it 
into notice. 

Reveille Distkict. — During the summer of 1866 explorations through the 
southeastern part of the State were canied on extensively, and many discoveries of 
im portance were made. This region of country had previously been regarded as an 
inhospitable desert, and was entered with great caution. The impression of its ster- 
ility was found to be erroneous and it is now ascertained that north of the 38th paral- 
lel, that part of Nevada, at least, contains but little country that can with propriety 
be called a desert. In August, 1866, a party composed of M. D. Fairchild, A. 
Monroe, and W. O. Arnold, discovered an extraordinary outcrop of silver-bear- 
ing veins upon the eastern slope of a range next east of the Hot Creek moun- 
tains, and about 135 miles southeast of Austin. They immediately proceeded 
to organize a mining district to which they gave the name of Reveille, in com- 
pliment to the Reveille newspaper, Austin. They adopted the mining law 
of the State, and under it claims were recorded and held. The most promising 
claims located are the Crescent, August, Mediterranean, Atlantic, National, 
Antartic, Fisherman, and Adriatic. Many others are located. The last two 
named are situated on the western slope of the mountain, while the others are 
on the eastern side. The rock fonnation is chiefly limestone, and the metal- 
bearing quartz appears in veins or vast beds in the crust and extending 
above the surface. These appear of various Avidths from 20 to upwards of 100 
feet. The excavations upon them have not determined their depth, nor whether 
the}'- are true fissure veins or detached beds. Being in limestone, and appearing 
in such masses at the surface, has given rise to questions as to their true charac- 
ter. From the August, Crescent, Fisherman, Adriatic, and others, some ore has 
been taken and reduced at the mills at Austin, producing $150 and upwards to 
the ton. The outcropping masses of this district are distinguished for the amount 
of silver they contain. There is but little water in the neighborhood of the mines, 
but to the west, from seven to ten miles, upon the opposite side of the valley 
separating the Reveille from the Hot Creek range, are streams affording water 
for reduction mills should deep mining fail to obtain water for the purpose close 
at hand. Upon one of these streams the Rutland mill of five stamps has been 
erected, but as it was prepared only for wet crushing, or from want of efficient 
management and metallurgical skill, it has not been successful. 

Empire Distkict. — Joining Hot Creek district on the south, and about 
eight miles distant from that singular stream, is Empu-e district. This was organ- 
ized in 1866, shortly after that of Hot Creek. It is represented as containing 
valuable ledges. Ore from them reduced at Austin has yielded as high as $400 
per ton. Specimens of great richness are often exhibited, showing chloride, 
sulphuret, and native silver. The true ciiaracter and real worth of the district 
has not been demonstrated. 

Milk Springs District is in the Hot Creek range of mountains, and south 
of Empire. It receives its name from the peculiar appearance -of the water 
arising from a large spring, Avhich, although to the taste pure, is of a milky 
color. Numerous veins Lave been located, and some good ore has been obtained. 
But little work has been done in the district, and its true character cannot be 
stated. Some of the veins are regarded as of value b}- persons qualified to judge. 

Morey District. — The mineral veinsof Morey district were noticed in 1865, by 



426 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

T. J. Barnes, who penetrated tlie southeastern countr}-. This gentleman made 
extensive explorations, and with others organized several districts. Accounts of 
these were reported at the time in the lleese River Reveille, but they led to no 
general occupation of the country, nor to the development of any mines. The year 
following Morey district was reorgaruzed, and labor upon some of the veins is now 
progressing with fair prospects. It is situated about 100 miles east and a little 
Bouth of Austin, on a spur of mountain running cast from the Hot Creek range. 
It is as yet but little known. 

Paheanagat Distigt lies in the southeastern part of Nevada, near the 38th 
parallel of latitude, and about 115° west from Greenwich. Its distance from 
Austin is estimated at 180 miles. The mines were first discovered in March, 
1:865, by T. 0. W. Sayles, John H. Ely, David Sanderson, Samuel S. Strut, 
William McClusky, and Ira Hatch, Indian interpreter. These parties w^ere from 
Utah, and were guided to the locality by an Indian. A district was fonued 
and many ledges located.* The name given it was the uame borne by the 
Inthans living in an extensive valley lying at the foot of the mountain bearing 
the mineral ; the word " pali" meaning water, and " ranagat" any vegetable, as 
melon, squash, or pumpkin, growing on vines. It is indicative of the agricul- 
tural value of tlio section. The mountain bearing the mineral was named 5lount 
Irisli, in honor of Mr. Irish, the United States Indian agent for the Ten'itory of 
Utah. The place where the discoverers encamped, being at a spring of water 
in the valley, was called by the Indians Hiko, meaning white man, and the 
village now at that place, and county seat of Lincoln county, bears that name. 
The chief ph3'sical features of the district are, Iklount Irish, a lofty peak attaining 

* Messrs. Adelberg and Raymond, metallurgists and mining engineers, of New York, in 
a report on the character of certain silver ores from the Pahranagat district, say : The silver 
ores from Pahranagat district, the value of which, as determined by 22 assays made for 
F. Prentice, esq., of New York, will be found in om' certificates, present, with but one excep- 
tion, a single typical class of argentiferous rock, viz: polybasite, of great richness. This 
mineral contains a somewhat variable proportion of silver, although it has a distinct habitus 
and chemical character. It is a sulphuret of arsenic (or antimony) and silver, with the for- 
mula 9 Ag S + As S'^; but a portion of the silver may be represented by copper, and the 
arsenic by antimony, so that the general formula may be given thus : 9 (Cu S. Ag S) -j- (S 
C S^ As S''.) The percentage of silver, according to careful analyses made in Europe, varies 
from 64 to 72 per cent., and even more. 

Pahranagat district, aside from its well-known veins of argentiferous galena, one of which 
is represented in the specimens submitted to us, seems to carry in its silver lodes principally 
polybasite. This mineral must be looked upon, therefore, as the characteristic ore of the 
district, and the principal basis of that silver production, which is rapidly springing up in 
that rich locality. This mineralogical feature distinguishes Pahranagat from other centres 
of silver production, such as the Washoe and Reese River districts ; and will determine for 
it a peculiar metallurgical process for the treatment of its ores. We cannot undertake, with- 
out a more extended examination, to describe in detail such a process ; and content ourselves 
on this occasion with the following brief opinion : 

1. In the case of ores of such quality as the samples marked Ilampden, Saturn. Mars, 
Williams, Moscow, Comanche, Vesuvius, Leonidas, London, Pittsburg, Cliff, Hamburg, 
Judsou, Steuben, Inca, and Mazeppa, we do not see any objection to the use of the well- 
known process of chloritic roasting and subsequent amalgamation, as carried on in and around 
Austin ; although it is obvious, that only a careful roasting of long duration will convert 
these ores into a form of chlorides for amalgamation. 

2. On the other hand, such exceedingly rich ores as those marked Braganza, Exenica, 
Gibraltar, and Manchester, would best be beneficiated by the smelting process, the choice of 
which is indicated by their very character, and the use of which is especially feasible in Pah- 
ranagat, inasmuch as the galena veins of that district furnish the very material upon which 
that process is founded. Another most favorable circumstance is the existence of coal beds 
in the neighborhood. Although these coal beds, like others of the western coast, belong, no 
doubt, to the tertiary formation, they will still be of great value to the mining industry of the 
country, especially as they occur within four miles of the lode. 

3. In conclusion we desire to say, that most of the specimens submitted to us are obviously 
from near the surface ; and, judging from the analogy between the mineralogical character- 
istics of the poorer and the richer ores, we regard it as most probable that future develop- 
ments in depth will prove all these lodes to carry rich polybasite, which could unquestionably 
be more thoroughly and easily treated by smelting than by amalgamation. 

1 See Appendix, page 666. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 427 

an elevation of 11,000 feet above the sea, witli'otlier liills and peaks constituting' 
a range of mountains ; the Pahranagat valley, of some 30 miles in leugtli and 
about 12 in width, a portion of Avhieli is agricultural land ; and its large and 
singular springs. The mountain, as described by Mr. R. H. Stretch, State min- 
eralogist of Nevada, " is a mass of "white porphyritic rock, the flanks consisting 
of a blackish limestone (aboimding in fragments of crinoids and corals) overlying 
slates and capped with a heavy body of quartzite. On Silver hill and Sanderson 
mountain, the outcroppings of the lodes are in limestone. On the western slope 
of the range, crystalline eruptive rocks are abundant.'"* The trend of the moun- 
tain range is north and south, and the strike of the veins is generally northeast 
and southwest, with a slight dip to the southeast, or stand nearly vertical. There 
have been upwards of 1,000 locations made, the principal of which are the Illi- 
nois, List, Crescent, Bay State, New Hampshire, Eclipse, Utah, TJlric Dahlgren, 
and Victoria. Many others are worthy of mention^ but their developments are 
slight, and the catalogue Avould be useless. 

The valley of Pahranagat lies at an elevation estimated at from G,000 to 7,000 
feet above the sea, but, for so great an altitude the climate is comparatively warm 
and pleasant. This is accounted for by its being in a measure open to the valley 
of the Colorado and the warm region of the south. Ver}- slight snow-storms are 
experienced in winter, and frosts are not severe. Springs and streams afford 
water for irrigating a large area, which, with the good soil and mild climate, will 
enable it to furnish such products of the farm, garden, and field as a mining 
population may require. The springs, of which there arc three, Hiko, Logan^ 
and Ash, are natural curiosities, from the amounts of water they pour forth, 
being from 1,000 to 2,000 inches, and the peculiarity of their high temperature, 
which is from 65° to 75° Fahrenheit. I"ii the neighborhood of each of these are 
farming settlements, and at Hiko and Logan are small villages. The total 
number of inhabitants in the district is now about 300. There are several families 
residing in the valley, but no schools are yet established. This section having 
been first occupied by people from Utah and the east, wliere United States legal- 
tender notes is the currency, this currency is adopted here, and in that diflers 
from other portions of the State. Early in the present year a mill of five-stamp 
capacity was erected by W. H. Raymond, and put in operation ; but either from 
inexperience or bad management it proved a failure, and is not operating now. 
Anotlier mill of five stamps, to work the ores of the List lode, has been con- 
structed and is more successful, although very incomplete. A 10-stamp mill is 

*The Mining and Scientific Press, of San Francisco, Calilornia, of December, 1805, makes 
the following allusion to the Pahranagat mines : 

We hcive had placed upon our table some very fine specimens of silver ore from an entirely 
new mining district, lately discovered about lOU miles easterly of Mono lake, and at least 75 
miles distant from any already existing district. It has been named the Pahranagat Lake 
district, the Indian name of the lake and valley near which the mines are located. The 
discovery was made in March last, by Messrs. J. Ely, W. McClosky, S. S. Shntt, and three 
others. The location, as ascertained by running out a line from a known point, is in lati- 
tude 37° 34' north, and 115° 29' west, which places it in the southeast corner of the State of 
Nevada. 

The ore from this newly discovered region is mainly silver-bearing, and judging from 
samples of the croppings before us, the mines must prove rich in depth. 

Assays have been made by Mr. G. Kiistel from five different samples of ore, taken from as 
many different lodes, three of which present marked peculiarities, and duplicates of all of 
which are before us. We append the assays, with a description of each sample : 

No. 1. Principally carbonate of lead and antimony, yielded at the rate of $867 10, in silver, 
to the ton of ore. 

No. 2. Carbonate of lead, copper, and antimony, $282 25 in silver. 

No. 3. Carbonate of lead and copper, with argentiferous gray copper ore and copper silver 
glance, $1,036 75 in silver. 

No. 4. A specimen presenting same characteristics as No. 3 yielded at the rate of $263 '.'0 
to the ton. 

No. 5. Another specimen similar to No. 3 yielded at the rale of $337 30 to the ton. The 
two last each presented traces of gold. 



428 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

now in course of construction upon the plan of tlie best mills at Austin. Its 
architect and builder is Benjamin Evans, whose experience gives hopes of suc- 
cess. Several attempts have been made to smelt the ores, some of which Ijear 
considerable quantities of galena, but so far they have proved failures. It is proba- 
ble these failures are the consequence of want of knowledge of the composition and 
inexperience in the reduction of the ores. They have retarded the development of 
1 he district, and depleted the pockets of the miners. 

A remarkable mountain of salt exists about 70 miles south of the mines.* It 
is rej^orted to be about five miles in length and 600 feet in height. The body 
of salt is of unknown depth. It is chemically pure and crystalline, and does 
not deliquesce on exposure to the atmosphere. Like rock, it requires blasting 
from the mine, whence it is taken in large blocks as transparent as glass. This 
would afford an abundant supply to the world could it be cheaply mined and 
transported, but it now stands in the wilderness, an object for the admiration of 
the curious, and the inspection of the scientific. The salt to be used in bene- 
ciating the ores, or for domestic purposes, is more easily obtained from the 
fields in White Pine valley, where it is gathered read}^ for the tal)le or the mill. 
This salt field is about 60 miles north of the mines on Mount Irish, and from 
it salt can be delivered at the mills at Pahranagat at a cost of $40 in coin per 
ton. The district receives its machinery and most of its supplies from San 
Francisco. The different routes from that city are by sea around Cape St, 
Lucas and up the Golf of California, thence in small steamers up the Colorado 
river about 600 miles to Callville,t thence by land about 175 miles; or by 
sea to San Pedro, thence by land via Los Angeles 475 miles ; or by Sacra- 
mento, the Central Pacific railroad, and Austin. The total distance by the 
hitter route is 650 miles, and freight is taken through at the rate of 6200 in coin 
per ton. The preference is now given to the land route via the railroad. 

Tlie Illinois Mine. — The Illinois lode is situated high up on the eastern 

* Dr. 0. H. Conger, assayer and metallurgist, says in a report on the resources of this dis- 
trict : 

" Timber is very abundant in the mountains of this region, particularly in those iu which the 
mines are situated. The water-power is also almost unlimited along the valley streams. 
Coupled with these great natural advantages, which are indispensable, are immense deposits 
of salt and the silicate of alumina, and the latter is in the immediate vicinity of the mines. 
The outcroppings of it over a very large extent of country, which are apparent, prove it abso- 
lutely inexhaustible. Its capability of withstanding any degree of heat, to the state of incan- 
descence, is most remarkable. It possesses the pioperty also of hardening by heating, so 
that in a very short period it becomes almost adamantine. Another very desirable property, 
as a furnace material, is in its scarcely perceptible expansion and contraction under the most 
intense degree of heat or cold. Its constituents appear to be, from a hasty test made, silica, 
alumina, magnesia, and asbestus, the two first minerals greatly predominating, and some 
strata indicating silica and alumina on\-y. In appearance it resembles chalk, and is as easily 
carved into any desirable shape. The strata vary in thickness from four inches to six feet. 

" These varying thicknesses enable blocks of it to be obtained of any desired size, so that 
the floors or hearths of reverbaratory and cupelling furnaces, as also pieces entire for the 
arches can be obtained whole. This Avill greatly lessen the expense in the construction of 
the furnaces in this district, which are required for the proper working of the ores, and also 
they can be much more strongly and perfectly built than with the usual fire brick. Already 
it is being carried to dift'erent parts of the country for refractory purposes. Mountains of 
limpid salt boldly project through the floor of the valley, and in many places from 100 to 200 
leet in height and thickness, so that blocks of a ton in weight or more are easily obtained. 
One remarkable feature about it is, that it is perfectly pure, containing not a trace of any- 
thing but the two elements chlorine and sodium. I believe there is but one other place on 
the globe where it exists in such a state of purity in workable quantities, and that is Cracow, 
Poland. This is but another evidence of the state of purity in which the force of nature has 
left her mineral deposits iu this interesting portion of the continent. Native silver is common 
in many of the lodes of this district on the outcropping ore. 

'* Copper ore, of the sub-oxide and gray varielies, 80 per cent, metal, and also iron ore of 
equrrl richness, are abundant." 

t Callville has been reached with great difficulty by one small steamer ; but the naviga- 
tion of the Colorado to that point can scarcely be considered practicable for commercial pur- 
poses, in its present condition. — J. R. B. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 429 

slope of the mountain, and is cut through by fi deep caiion, giving an opportu- 
nity to examine the vein, and to open it by tunnels at a great depth. It crops 
oat boldl}^, showing an apparent width of from 15 to 20 feet. The vein has been 
opened at several places, and found to be valuable. The Illinois, Indiana, Web- 
ster, and other veins of good repute, are the property of W. H. Raymond & Co., 
of New York. 

The Indiana, on Peters's mountain, has been tapped by a tunnel of 125 feet, 
at a depth of 120 feet below the croppings, showing a pay streak of 6 feet in a 
vein of 10 feet between the walls. 

The Webster, on Raymond mountain, has been struck by a vertical shaft 100 
feet below the croppings, with a pay streak of about 10 feet. 

The Alameda Compamj. — This is a New York organization, and owns the List 
and other mines. The List is a location of 400 feet in length upon a vein which 
extends through several similar locations. In the claim of the Alameda Com- 
pany it is most developed, and shows a widtli of from 5 to 10 feet, bearing two 
strata of ore, respectively 6 and 18 inches in width. Several tons of this ore 
have been taken to Austin for reduction, and produced at the rate of $100 per 
ton, and a ninnber of tons worked at the Crescent mill, near the vein, yielded 
$S0 per ton. The developments consist in an incline 23 feet, and a shaft 50 
feet in depth, from the /bottom of which a tunnel has been run, l)ut it has not as 
3'et penetrated the vein. AVm. Fleming is the superintendent. The wages paid 
for first-class miners in this district are $6 per day in currency. ]\Ir. Islin, Cap- 
tain Dahlgren, and others, are about to commence operations on mines of which 
they are owners or agents. The district bids fair, with its mineral-bearing ledges 
and agricultural resources, to become one of importance. It is connected with 
Austin by a weekly mail; and the road between the two places is naturally good, 
and has been well improved, so it is easily, safely, and pleasantly passed by 
heavy freight wagons and travellers. It lies on a practicable route for a railroad 
from the Central Pacific, at several points on the Humboldt river, to the Colo- 
rado at the head of navigation, or to the crossing of the Atlantic and Pacific rail- 
road, should such a road be constructed. 

Colorado District. — A recent act of Congress annexed a portion of Arizona 
to Nevada, and in the section transfcn-ed is Colorado district, or the mining region 
of El Dorado canon. This is on the banks of the Colorado river, and as yet 
has had but little intercourse with the original Nevada. It may not be regarded 
as within the limits of this report to give a description of this district, but as a 
ste-p-child of Nevada, it is jjroper to recognize its existence. It was organized 
in 1861, and a large number of claims located bearing gold, silver, and cojiper. 

Northern Mines. — In July of the present year, a party composed of Messrs. 
McCan, Beard, Heath, and others left Austin on an exploring tour to the ranges 
of mountains north of the Humboldt river. There had been rumors of discoveries 
of gold-bearing veins and placers in those ranges, and also in the Goose Creek 
mountains, dividing the waters of the Humboldt and Owyhee from Salt Lake. 
This part of the country was infested with hostile Indians, and it was regarded as 
dangerous to penetrate it. For that reason it had remained unexplored, yet its 
very dangers w'ere inviting to the venturesome prospector, whose imagination 
gave the wild country wealth in proportion to the hardships and dangers attend- 
ing its occupation. This party of explorers, consisting of eight men, passed the 
Humboldt river, and going north on about the 117th meridian, crossed a range 
of mountains, made up chiefly of detached hills or buttes running easterly and 
westerly, and when upon the northern slope, about 60 miles from the river, 
discovered gold in placers and in situ. 

TuscARORA District. — Upon making the discoveries of gold, the prospectors 
organized a mining district, to Avhich they gave the name of Tuscarora. A small 
stream running through it northwardly was named McCan. Along this stream for 
about three miles gold in small quantities was found to exist. It appears very much 



430 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

diflFused tlirongh tlie soil from the surface to the depth reached, which did not exceed 
five feet. Several ledges, or Avhat are supposed to be ledges, were found, showing 
gold. The party returning to Austin with specimens reported their discoveries, 
and as is usual upon such occasions an excitement was created, and 100 or more 
men, Avell armed for defence against the Indians, and prepared for prospecting, 
immediately proceeded to the new mining region. A large area of country has 
already been explored, and mines found in various localities. At the present 
time the real value of the discoveries is unknown, as but little labor has been 
expended upon either the gold-bearing veins or in washing the soil. The creek 
does not furnish water in sufficient quantities for extensive and rapid washing, 
and therefore unless very rich deposits are found, it is not probable any large 
fortunes will be realized. It is estimated, however, from the prospects obtained 
that from $10 to $20 per diem may be made per man, for a score or more of 
men. Should the specimens of gold-bearing quartz found be any criterion of 
the value of the veins at great depths, they are rich indeed. The geograph}'' of 
the region is but little known, and it cannot l)e stated at present whether the 
Avaters drain to the Owyhee sink in a basin of their own, or flow to some branch 
of the Humboldt. A short period will determine all such doubts. The country 
is described as well adapted for grazing, producing an abundance of grass of a 
very nutricious character. There arc many valleys of large size capable of cul- 
tivation, and which, when the treacherous savage is exterminated or subdued, 
and the miners fill the hills, Avill furnish pleasant homes to settlers. 

About 40 miles east of Tuscarora, and on the southern slope of the range, 
ledges bearing both silver and gold have been discovered. These discoveries 
were lately made. No district has j'et been formed. The locality is about 50 
miles north of Gravelly Ford, on the Humboldt river. T. J. Tennant and party, 
the discoverers, brought specimens of the ore to Austin, where they were assayed, 
and showed value. The rock is granite, the veins of quartz running north and 
south. This is represented as a good farming and grazing country, with grass 
covering the hills like a meadow. Game, as deer, antelope, hare, and several 
varieties of grouse, the chief of which is the sage hen, abounds in great plenty. 

This new region, which has so long been closed against the pioneer, promises 
to become an important and wealthy portion of the State. 

The following classification of the minerals which characterize the veins of 
Eastern Nevada is prepared by Charles A. Stetefeldt, esq., assayer and metal- 
lurgist, of Austin. 

CATALOGUE OF MINERALS. 

Reese River District.* — Eastern part of Lander Hill and Central Hill. — 
Pyrargyrie, proustite, polybasite, and stephanite predominant; tetrahedrite seldom; 
few sulphurets of base metals. 

Central part of Lander Hill and Union Hill. — Tetrahedrite predominant ; pp-ites 
of iron and copper, galena and blende ; few polybasite and stephanite. 

Western part of Lander Hill and Union Hill. — Argentiferous galena, pyrites 

^MINERALS OF REESE RIVER DISTRICT, ARRANGED ACCORDING TO 
DANA'S SYSTEM. BY EUGENE N. RIOTTE, M. E. 

I. Native elements : 

Native {^old, native silver, native copper. 

II. Sulphurets arsenurets, etc : 

I, Binary compounds. 

1. Stibnite, antimonglance. 

2. Silverglanze ; erubescite, variegated copper ore ; galena, blende, copper glance, stro- 
meierite, pyrites, lucopgrites, molyadenite. 

II. Double binary compounds. 

Chalcopyrite, pyrargyrite, proustite, fetrahedrite, polybasite, stephanite, firoblende. 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 431 

of iron and copper, blende predominant ; few tetraliedrite. In most veins ahovp 
water level, horn silver predominant. 

Twix EiVEE DiSTEiCT. — Ophlr Canon. — Species of tetrabedrite containing 
gold and silver predominant; native silver; blende, p3Tites of iron and copper. 

Summit Canon. — Argentiferous galena predominant ; native silver, silver glance ; 
blende, pyrites of iron. 

NoKTH TwTS EiVEPv DISTRICT. — ParJc Canon. — Mixture of pyrites of iron, 
pyrites of copper, blende, argentiferous galena, spatbic iron, native silver, pyrav- 
girite, and quartz. 

Reveille District. — Argentiferous sulpLuret of copper predominant ; silvei 
glance, sulpliuret of antimony. Croppings contain much horn silver. 

Philadelphia and Columbus Districts. — Stetefeldtite (new mineral) pre- 
dominant; galena; pyrites of copper. Croppings contain much horn silver. 

EuEEHA District. — Argentiferous galena predominant; stetefeldtite. 

Empire District. — Stetefeldtite predominant. 

Uxiox District. — Stromeyerite predominant; native gold and silver; silver 
glance; horn silver. 

Washixgtox District. — Argentiferous galena predominant; native silver; 
pp-ite of iron and copper, blende. 

Summit akd Bia Creek District. — Argentiferous galena predominant; 
pyrites of iron and copper, blende, sulphuret of antimony. 

Smoky Valley District. — Ai-gentiferous sulphuret of copper, argentiferous 
galena, blende, pyrites of iron and copper. 

BuxKER Hill District. — Native gold and silver, argentiferous sulpluu-et 
of copper, pyrites of iron and copper, galena. 

Saxta Fe District. — Native gold; pyrites of iron, copper glance. 

Lone Mountain. — Native gold ; pyrites of iron and copper. 

New Pass District. — Native gold; argentiferous galena, pyrites of copper 
and copper glance. 

Bullion Product. — The actual amount of silver bullion shipped from Austin 
to Virginia and San Francisco for the 12 months ending August 1, 1867, is 
$1,455,273 60, the greater portion being in the last five months of the present 
year. This is ascertained from the way-bills of the express and stage companies. 



SECTIOJf IXI. 

THE OVERLAND TELEGRAPH. 

The subject of trans-continental telegraphic communication has attracted gene- 
ral attention during the past few years, and almost every intelligent person has 
acquired some knowledge respecting it. I am induced to believe, however, that 
much may still be learned from the practical experiences of operators along the 
route. The magnitude of the enterprise, the benefits resulting from it both to 

III. Flourids, chlorids, bromids, todids : 
I. Binary compounds. 

Common salt, kerargyrite, bromyrite, todyrite.(?) 

IV. Oxygen compounds : 

I. Oxyde Unary compounds. 

Red copper, magnetic iron ore, hematite, housnanite, pyrolusite, isilomelan, wad, quarz, 
opal. 

II. Sails double binary compounds : 

Pyroxene ; rhodonite, silicate of manganese ; hornblende, muscovite, feldspar, oligoclas 
and orthoclas, tourmalie, chrysocoUa ; hubnerite, tungstate of manganese ; barytes, gypsum, 
cyanosite, copperas, glauber salts, apatete, nitre, calcite, carbonate of manganese, chalybite, 
spathic iron ore, cerusite, trona, malachite, asuritc, titauite, tungstate of lead. 



432 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

the commercial world and the mining commnnity, and the difficulties encounterca 
in carrying- it into effect are not yet lully appreciated. 

The first practical movement toward the construction of tlie overland telegraph 
was made by California.* The Placerville and Humboldt Telegraph Company 
was organized in 1858, and the first pole of the line from Placerville across tho 
Sien-a Nevada mountains Avas erected on tlie 4th of July of that year. During 
the autumn of the same year the lino had reached Genoa — then in Utah Terri- 
tory, now in the State of Nevada — and by the spring of 1859 it had reached 
Carson, from Avhich point a branch was extended to Virginia City soon after the 
discovery of the silver mines. 

This much of the line was constructed entirely by private enterprise. Neither 
State nor general government afforded any assistance, though repeated ap|)lica- 
tion was made to both. Disagreements between Messrs. Broderick and Gwin, 
senators of the United States from California, prevented the passage through 
Congress of a bill introduced by the former in ]\Iay, 1858, for the construction 
of a trans-continental line between the Atlantic and Pacific States. 

In April, 1859, the legislature passed an act pledging the State to give $6,000 
a year to the telegraph line that should make the first connection Avith an eastern 
line, and $4,000 a year to the next. 

Two companies were encouraged to enter the list — one via Salt Lake city and 
the other via Los Angeles and the Butterfield stage route through Arizona and 
Texas, 

The dissensions already referred to in Congress retarded the adoption of any of 
the measures proposed on the Atlantic side, until the IGth of June, 1860, when an 
act was passed directing the Secretary of the Treasury to advertise for sealed 
l)roposals to be received for 60 days after the passage of said act for the use by 
the government of a line or lines of telegraph to l)e constructed within two years 
from July 31, 1800, from some point on the Avest line of Missouri, by any route the 
contractor might select, to San Francisco, for a period of 10 years, and toaAvard 
the contract to the loAvest bidder, pro\-ided he did not require more than $40,000 
a year. 

Permission Avas granted to the successful bidder to use for ten years such public 
lands of the United States as might be necessary for the right of Avay and for 
the purpose of establishing stations for repairs, not exceeding at any one station 
one quarter-section, and not to exceed one in 15 miles on the Avhole aA^erage of 
the distance. No pre-emption right to the land Avas granted. The contract Avas 
not to be made until the line Avas in actual operation. 

Certain reservations Avere also made establishing for the government a priority 
of use of the line, free from charge until at the ordinary charges for private mes- 
sages the sum of $40,000 Avas reached, after Avhich the excess Avas to be certified 
to Congress by the Secretary of the Treasury. 

Four bids Avere made in accordance Avith tlie proposals advertised by the Sec- 
retary of the Treasury, ranging from $40,000 to $25,000, three of Avhich Avere 
subsequently AvithdraAvn. The highest bid Avas that made by Mr. Hiram Sibley, 
Avhich Avas accepted. 

The parties represented bj^ Mr. Sibley met at Rochester, New York, and con- 
cluded upon a series of propositions, Avhich they submitted to the Pacific com- 
panies through the agency of Mr. J. H. Wade and Major Bee. 

Tlie consolidation Avas effected in March, 1861, betAveen all the companies on 
the Pacific coast, by the purchase by the California State Telegraph Company 
of all the lines belonging to other companies. 

The California State Telegraph Company Avas the oldest telegraph company 
on the Pacific coast, Avith a capital of $1,250,000, of Avhich Mr. Horace W. Carpen- 
tier, of California, was president, and Mr. J. Mora Moss vice-president. 

*From data published a few years since in the San Francisco Evening Bulletin. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 433 

The Overland Telegrapli Company was tli'en incorporated promptly by tlio 
owners of the California State Telegraph Company, also with a capital of 
^1,250,000, and under the same board of officers. 

On the Ifet of January, 1862, the California State Telegraph and the Over- 
land Telegraph Company consolidated under the name of the Califoraia State 
Telegraph Company, with a capital of $2,500,000. 

Thus all the lines in California and the overland line to Salt Lake City came 
into the possession and under the direction of this company. 

The eastern end from Salt Lake City to Omaha belonged to the Pacific Tele- 
graph Company. 

Mr. Edward Creighton, a gentleman of great energy and experience, was the 
constructor of the line from Omaha to Salt Lake City. He performed the duties 
of his position with perfect success under obstacles of a most formidable char- 
acter. 

The California division of the line was reconstructed from Placerville to Fort 
Churchill, and thence continued to Salt Lake City under the general supervision 
of Mr. Carpentier, who personally visited all parts of the route and gave the 
entei'prise his earnest attention. 

Mr. James Gamble, superintendent of the State Telegraph Company, a gen- 
tleman thoroughly fa6iiliar with the details of the telegraph system, who had 
the advantage of experience in the construction of every line built in California 
by the State Telegraph Company, had the special supervision of the whole Avork, 
and much is due to his experience, energy, and skill. 

Mr. James Street superintended that part of the work between Ruby valley 
and Salt Lake City, one of the most difficult sections on the route. 

Mr. J. M. Hubbard superintended the construction of the section from Carson 
to Ruby valley. 

On the 27th of May, 1861, Mr. Gamble, as general superintendent of the line, 
started a train of 30 wagons from Sacramento, loaded with wire, insulators, pro- 
visions, &c., with three or four hundred head of oxen, horses, and mules ; and; 
although it Avas considered late in the season, there Avas no stoppage on account 
of storms or bad roads. The snoAvs had begun to melt in the Sierra Nevadas ; 
the mountain streams Avere SAVollen into fearlul toiTents ; the roads Avere cut up 
into ruts and mudholes, many of Avliich Avere almost impassable ; and forage Avas 
exceedingly scarce and dear. Some of the Avagons Avere upset, many of the ani- 
mals foundered in the mud, but the train went on regardless of every obstacle. 

On the 24th of June the first pole was set on the line from Fort Chm'chill to 
Salt Lake, and on the 24tli day of October the connection Avith the city of the 
saints Avas completed. 

History presents no record of such a stupendous work accomplished in so short 
a time. Fi\-e hundred and seventy miles of telegraph line, built through a dreary 
deseit where Avood and Avater Avere the exceptions, Avithin the brief space of foiu: 
months! Siu'ely if the Americans are boastful in their speech, their acts are 
remarkable. Men avIio build telegraphs across continents, regardless of seasons, 
deserts, or savage races, ha\'e a right to speak Avell of themselves. 

The number of poles to the mile is from 25 to 30, depending upon the char- 
acter of the country ; the aA'erage length is about 22 feet ; and the kinds of tim- 
ber chiefly used redwood, pine, cedar, and tamarack. It is customary to sink 
the poles from three to four feet in the ground, according to the nature of the 
Boil. In soft or marshy ground they require to be braced. Ordinarily they last 
about two or three years, much depending on the climate and diu-ability of the 
AVOod. The best Avoods used on the California section are said to be the redwood 
and cedar. 

Nearly one-tliird of the poles had to be hauled from the Sierra Nevada moun- 
tains to Austin and beyond, extending to a distance of more than 300 miles, at 
a cost of four to six cents a pound for freight. But this Avas the least of tho 
28 



434 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

difficulties encountered. Water is exceeding-ly scarce in tliese sage deserts, and 
it often happened that both men and animals suffered fearfully from thirst. It 
Avas a constant battle almost every step of the Avay against the most formidable 
natural obstacles — alkali deserts, scarcity of water, lack of timber for poles and 
feed for the animals, rugged mountains and difficult passes. In some places the 
sand was so soft and shifting as to aflbrd scarcely a foothold for the poles ; in others 
the ground was so hard and rocky that foundations had to be drilled out or built 
around them with stones. During the progress of the work despatches continued 
to be regularly transmitted from California to the outer end of the line, where 
they were copied and forwarded by pony express to the appniaching end of 
the eastern division, and vice versa, so that scarcely a day was lost in the use 
of the telegraph on either side. 

Constant co-mmunication was also kept up between the operators at the various 
stations along the line and the office of the company at San Francisco, who were 
daily advised of the progress of the work. 

Poles of sufficient size and strength were very difficult to obtain on other por- 
tions of the route. 

The cost of transportation was the most expensive item. In the vicinity of 
Salt lake this difficulty was in part obviated by the adroit management of Mr. 
Street, who had special charge of that section. It was very generally supposed 
that Brigham Young, the president of the Mormons, was hostile to the building 
of the line through the Mormon settlements. Mr. Street was well aware that 
without his co-operation the difficulties incident to the imdertaking would, at 
least, be greatly augmented. Ho adopted the policy, therefore, of conciliating 
the great leader of the latter-day saints — whether by pleasant words or by more 
substantial tokens of esteem is still a mooted question. His interviews with 
Brigham on the suliject were highly amicable, and I have heard them graphi- 
cally described. Among other things, it is reported that Brigham expressed sur- 
prise at being regarded as an enemy of this important and beneficial enterprise. 
'' Why should we be op2:)Osed to a telegraph line?" said he ; " we have nothing 
to fear from it, and everything to gain. It is to our interest, as well as yours, to 
have the means of communicating with the outer world. Our religion cannot 
sutler from it, and it will certainly be advantageous to our industrial interests." 
Whether this be true or not, it is certain he gave his hearty co-operation to 
the enterprise, ordered out men and teams, and cordially assisted in the construc- 
tion of the line from Salt Lake City to Deep creek, a distance of 174 miles. 

The first through message transmitted over the line, from Salt lake to San 
Francisco, is interesting in the above connection : 

Great Salt Lake City, 

October 24—7 p. in. 
To Hon. H. W. Carpentier, President of the Overland Telegraph : 

Dear Sir : I am very much obliged to you for your kindness, manifested through Mr. 
Street, in giving me tlie privilege of first message to California. May success ever attend 
the enterprise. The success of Mr. Street in completing his end of the line, under many 
unfavorable circumstances, iu so short a time, is beyond our most sanguine anticipations. 
Join your wire with the Russian empire and we will converse with Europe. 
Your friend, 

BRIGHAM YOUNG. 

This was in answer to a despatch from Mr. Carpentier, as follows : 

San Francisco, California, 

October 24, 1861. 
To Hon. Brigham Young, Great Salt Lake City : 

That which was so long a hope is now a reality. The trans-continental telegraph is now 
completed. May it prove a bond of perpetual union and friendship between the people of 
Utah and the people of California. 

H. W. CARPENTIER. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 435 

This was the first through message from San Francisco to Salt Lake City. 
The first through message from the Atlantic States contained the following 
melancholy announcement : 

Great Salt Lake City, 

October 24 — 7 p. m. 
To H. W. Carprntier : 

Colonel Baker was killed in the battle of the 21 st, while in the act of cheering on his com- 
mand. Intense excitement and mourning in Philadelphia over his death. 

STREET. 

The line was started from St. Joseph, west, under the supervision of Mr. 
Creighton, in the summer of 18G0. It was built as far as Foi-t Kearney, via 
Omaha, that fall, following the north fork of the Platte river. The contract, 
however, was not made until March, 1861. During the summer and fall the 
work wa^ vigorously pushed forward by Mr. Crcighton and his subordinates. It 
reached Salt Lake City on the 19th of October, 1861, just five days prior to the 
completion of the California branch. 

Thus, in the language of Mr. Carpentier, ^^ that which was so long a hope 
became a reality ;" thus were the people of the Atlantic united to their friends 
and fellow-countrymen of the Pacific by an electric bond that annihilated time 
and space. 

Congratulations followed from every State of the Union and from every civi- 
lized nation of the world. It was the great achievement of the 19th century. 

Within a few days after the completion of the line, the secessionists in Mis- 
souri tore it down in several places, and for a while messages were sent east via 
Hannibal, Missouri, connecting with Quincy, Illinois. Subsequently a change 
was made by which a connnection was formed between Omaha and Chicago, 
through Iowa. 

From San Francisco to Chicago the distance is about 2,700 miles by the route 
taken ; to New York little short of 4,000 miles. 

This is the longest circuit on the American continent, perhaps in the world. 
For practical purposes it is necessary to repeat at Salt Lake City, Omaha, and 
Chicago. 

Messages either Avay are rewritten and repeated at Salt Lake City, where an 
accurate account is kept between the Atlantic and California offices. 

Direct communication between San Francisco and New York has frequently 
taken place, but this can only be done under very favorable circumstances, when 
there is little or no electncal disturbance. New York and San Francisco held 
direct communication Avith each other for the first time on Thursday, November 
6, 1862. On that memorable day the Atlantic and Pacific oceans were united in 
the iron bond of matrimony, from which it is to be hoped they will never be 
divorced. 

The distance is so great, however, and the line subject to so many electrical 
disturbances that no battery can be made sufficiently powerful to overcome all 
the obstacles in the Avay of direct communication. For practical puqioses mes- 
sages have to be repeated at the stations designated for that purpose. 

The battery force required for tlie Avorking of the overland telegraph is small 
compared with that required in the Atlantic States. This is in part owing to the 
rarification of the atmosphere, and the prevailing absence of moisture and atmos- 
pheric electricity ; also, in part, to the absence of trees, Avhich in timbered coun- 
tries are apt to come in contact with the line and affect the insulation. 

At Salt Lake City 50 cups of main battery are used for two wires, one extending 
east to the repeating station at Fort Laramie, 500 miles, and the other Avest to 
Carson, 600 miles. 

Experienced operators inform me that it requires double that amount of bat- 
tery to Avork the same length of line on any other pari of the American continent. 

For every space of 30 to 50 miles betAveen Omaha and San Francisco there 



436 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

is an office or repair station, where men are kept for the purpose of protecting 
and repairing the line. These men are provided with wires, implements, pro- 
visions, &c., and hold themselves in readiness to start out at a moment's notice 
to any point within their range. The expedition with which poles are reset and 
breaks in the wire repaired is almost incredible. An ordinary break seldom detains 
despatches more than a few hours. 

So skilled do some of the operators become in the art of telegraphing that 
they are enabled to read by the mere sense of touch or sight applied to the wire or 
the instrument. Mr. Shafiner relates instances in which operators have read mes- 
sages by applying to their tongue a small wire attached to the main line. Still 
more remarkable is the fact that a person near by can discover what is passing 
by watching the vibrations or electric throbs on the tongue of another. The 
communication is imperfect, however, and would scarcely be reliable beyond the 
simplest monosyllables. 

Breaks in the line are sometimes very difficult to find. An example is given 
by Mr. Shaffiier where there was a break between two stations. The line was 
carefully examined all the way through. Apparently it was perfect, yet there 
Avas no communication. By testing from each station it was discovered that the 
break was Avithin a space of a few hundred yards. The wire was then carefully 
examined, when it was found that a silk cord had been substituted by some 
designing person so closely resembling the wire that to the eye it presented no 
perceptible difference. 

As an illustration of the wonderful delicacy of the ear acquired by the ope- 
rators, I must not omit to mention one or two facts connected with the working 
of the instruments. 

In large offices where many instruments are at work, an ordinary visitor almost 
imagines himself in some extensive clock establishment. There is a perfect 
medley of ticks, as unintelligible to him as would be a bag of shot rained down 
over the floor. Yet an operator who has left his seat to say a word to a friend 
in some other part of the room suddenly starts back, saying " I am called." 
Among a thousand ticks his particular tick has struck upon the tympanum of 
his ear. One cannot but think of the final call which, sooner or later, will be 
sent down from heaven to each one of us among millions of busy souls, and yet 
be intelligible as this earthly call is to the operator in a telegraph office. 

It should also be mentioned, as a characteristic illustration, that operators have 
an individuality of style or manner as distinctly marked as the difl'erenccs in 
chirography. For example, a message is being received at the office in San 
Francisco from the office in Carson. The superintendent standing by, asks " Who 
is that at the instrument at Carson?" The operator replies, '' Jones is at it now. 
Thompson was at it a few minutes ago." Presently he adds, " Smith has it now." 
How does he know all this? Neither Jones, nor Smith, nor Thompson has men- 
tioned his name or said a word on his own account, and yet the fact of each 
change is perfectly clear to the operator at San Francisco. He knows the style of 
each man. One makes long dashes and quick dots ; another runs a race between 
dots and dashes ; the third is sharp, clear, and methodical. Each has his indi- 
vidual characteristics, Avhich have become as familiar as the tones or modulations 
of his voice to the ear, or his handwriting or face to the eye. The language of 
sounds is even considered less liable to error in many offices than that of written 
signs, and has been of late very generally adopted. 

"East of the Rocky mountains, the poles are often burnt for miles by prairie 
fires. The Indians on their hunting expeditions are in the habit of firing the 
dry grass for the purpose of driving their game. Once started, the flames sweep 
over the country for hundreds of miles. Emigrant parties camping by the road- 
side leave their fires burning with little regard to consequences, and many a mile 
of line has been destroyed through the thoughtlessness of travellers, who, after 
lighting their pipes, throw the burning match into a bunch of dry grass, if possible, 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 437 

since it presents a peculiar attraction. The passion for destruction is inherent in 
man ; and it may be laid down as an axiom, applicable to all races of the earth, 
that where there is a chance of doing mischief free from the restraining influ- 
ences of law, by the burning of a prairie or a forest, human nature is not proof 
against the temptation. The Indians differ from the whites only in this, that 
being an ignorant race, they nsually have some object to gain in thus destroying 
the vegetation. 

During the summer months, the region of countiy bordering on the Platte 
river is subject to temfic thunder-storms, which sweep over the plains with irre- 
sistible force. The earth becomes saturated with heavy rains, and the poles 
being loosened in their foundations, are blown down for miles. Scarcely aiday 
passes, in the early part of summer, without a severe storm on some part of the 
line between the Rocky mountains and the borders of Missouri. The instru- 
ments are "burned" by lightning, or the poles swept to the earth, and the insu- 
lation destroyed or oltstructed. It is extremely difiicult to work through the 
entire length of the line dm-ing the prevalence of these storms — many times 
impracticable for several days. This source of annoyance cannot be overcome 
by any means known under the present system of telegraphing. 

In the dry deserts of the Great Basin, both cast and west of Salt Lake, the 
wire has, been known to work for miles without interruption, while partially 
imbedded in the sand. The heat of the sun absorbs all moisture from the sand 
and renders it a non-conductor. 

We thus find a very peculiar combination of obstacles — especially on the eastern 
division. In the month of June, for example, the Aveather at Salt Lake may be clear 
and warm, while the Waschita mountains, lying to the east, are covered with snow. 
It may be raining heavily at Fort Bridger, snowing at South Pass, clear at Fort 
Laramie, storming and raining along the Platte, and so on to Chicago. But it 
is worthy of note that when the lightning is so teiTific at one station as to 
caiise the operators to leave their instnnnents in alann, the operators on either 
side are frequently able to continue their communications, the electric current 
passing entirely through the storm without any material interruption. Salt 
Lake communicated with stations far east of the Rocky mountains, when at 
South Pass the operators were effectually cut ofif. 

In tl^e vicinity of South Pass the operators are sometimes " snowed in " for 
months at a time. All communication with the outer world, save by telegraph, 
is completely cut off. A more isolated life than these poor fellows lead can 
scarcely be conceived. Around them as far as the eye can reach the mountains 
and plains are covered with snow. All traces of human life are obliterated. 
The station-houses are covered up, high over the roofs, and it is only by cutting 
a way out and keeeping it clear that the occupants save themselves fi'om being 
buried alive. 

One of these stations is situated within a short distance of a point to which 
travellers in future ages will probably make pilgrimages, as the Mahometans 
now do to Mecca. It is the heart of the North American continent, from Avhich 
flow the great arteries of commerce. AVithin a distance of 200 yards lie the 
sources of the Missouri ivid the Colorado. Here is the true line of division 
betAveen the Atlantic and the Pacific slopes. On the one side an insignificant 
spring bursts from the earth. Gathering contributions from every caiion and 
ravine as it floAvs, it forms in time the SAveetAvater river, Avhich, after a long 
and turbulent career, empties into the Platte, the great river of the plains. From 
the Platte the Missouri takes up the current and rolls it ouAvard till it SAvells 
into the majestic toiTcnt of the Mississippi. The Gulf of Mexico receives the 
tribute. Up north, into the Arctic regions floAvs the Gulf Stream, Avhich in turn 
pays tribute to the shores of* NorAvay and Iceland, Who knows but the Indian 
deity of the Rocky mountains hold's converse with the old Scandinavian god 
Thor, sending him letters of bunch-grass and drift-AVOod, Avhile in retmii he 



438 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

receives from the winds, or tlirougli tlie flood-gates of heaven ashes from the 
Jokuls of Iceland ? The idea is not altogether without foundation, but cannot 
in our present state of knowledge be turned to an}^ useful telegraphic purpose. 

On the other side, 200 yards distant, rise the Pacific springs, which form the 
som-ce of the Green river. From Green river swells the great Colorado, the E,ed 
river of the desert; which, after a long and thirsty career through burning sands 
and cheerless wastes, cutting in twain the grim mountains of the Black caiion, 
receives in its bosom the Gila, or Swiftwaters of Arizona. Freighted with the 
red and golden sands of a great interior wilderness, where the Apache and the 
Navajo and kindred tribes of wild men still roam, it sweeps onward till lost in 
the seething waters of the Gulf of California. 

What a magnificent point of observation for the prophetic eye of a poet. 
Looking to the east or to the west the new world, with its various races of inhabi- 
tants, its scenery, its commerce, its future, lies before him. Starting at this little 
group of springs, he could write a thousand volumes and leave " arajile room and 
verge enough" for a thousand more, on the great futm-e of this vast continent, 
where ''no pent np Utica contracts our poAvers." 

But the operators are generally practical men. In seasons of great severity, 
they sometimes run short of food, and then they have a hard time. It becomes 
a simple question of life or death ; starvation staring them in the face, and noth- 
ing around them but cheerless wastes of snow. To such perfection, however, 
have the company reached their system of operations at the present day, that 
instances of prolonged suffering rarely occur. The stations are supplied with 
abundant provisions for the winter, and with all the apparatus necessary for 
repairing the line. It is only in cases of Indian depredations or some casualty 
against which no human ingenuity can provide, that the employes can suffer for 
the means of subsistence. As a rule they are comfortably lodged in stockades 
or block-houses, well armed with rifles and revolvers, provided with horses for 
travelling to and fro along the line ; and a wagon at each repair station to carry 
poles, wire, and implements, so that they are not so badly off as might be sup- 
posed. Isolation from the society of their fellow-beings is the most unpleasant 
feature in their calling ; but even that has its advantages. They have abundant 
time for study and reflection, and can save a good part of their wages. 

On the approach to the summit of the Sierra Nevada, it becomes necessary 
to increase the number of stations in consequence of the frequent interruptions to 
which the line is subject from falling timber, snow-storms and other causes. 
During the winter and spring months the stonns are often so violent as to break 
tloAvn the poles for miles ; and when the snows melt, floods and freshets are a 
prolific source of trouble. Even the dry season gives battle in the shape of 
extensive fires which sometimes rage through the forest, for weeks at a time, 
consuming all before them. In addition to these natm-al obstacles, which are 
formidable enough in themselves, the cupidity of man is too often cast in the 
balance against legitimate enterprise. Many apparent accidents to the line have 
been ingeniously contrived by speculators in Washoe stocks, for the purpose of 
gaining some dishonest advantage. Fortunately the sagacity and energy of 
the Telegraph Company have nearly precluded the possibility of cutting off 
communication for a sufiicient length of time to afford facilities of this kind. It 
is their interest as well as their duty to preserve uninterrupted communication 
for the benefit of the j)ublic at large. With this view, stations are established 
at intervals of 8 or 10 miles all across the Sierras. One or two men are place(? 
at each of these stations, Avith horses ready to go out at any time on either side 
In winter, during severe snow-storms, these horses are saddled ready fol- use, so 
that the employes whose duty it is to repair the line can proceed to the break 
A\dthout delay. When the difficulty is too great to 15e immediately remedied by 
connection of the wires, the despatches are earned to the first station beyond, and 
there repeated for transmission to their point of destination. It sometimes hap- 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, 439 

pens, during seasons of extraordinary severit^y, that the line is broken down 20 or 
30 times in i: single day and at as many different points. This is a busy time 
for the operators. They must be constantly on the alert, ayailing themselyes of 
every possible resource that ingenuity can devise. It is not merely a mecliani- 
cal office, as many suppose. Not only must the operator be skilled in the ordi- 
nar}^ details of his profession, but he must have the head to devise, and the hand 
to execute in the various unforeseen difficulties which are constantly occurring. 
He must be able to act as well as direct — to repair by extraordinary where ordi- 
nary means are not at hand. With such men feats are performed almost every day 
during the winter of which the public have but little conception. A citizen of 
San Francisco telegraphs to his correspondent in Virginia City. In six hours, 
let us say, he receives a response. ''How is this,'' he exclaims, "allowing full 
time each way for transmission, delivery, and probable delay, I should have had 
this ans\ver at least four hours ago f He is dissatisfied with the tardiness of 
electricity, or the operators, or both. He does not know, and probably would 
not believe it if told, that his message passed through ten or a dozen breaks on the 
line; that it was earned over several gaps on horseback, through raging floods, 
or blinding snow-storms ; that dangers were encountered and hardships experi- 
enced in its transmission from which most men would shrink, unless they found 
their compensation in something beyond a monthly salary. 

The falling of trees across the line is a source of great inconvenience in densely 
wooded countries. Although the wire is not always broken, the insulation is apt 
to be destroyed or affected, and thus communication cut of!" or rendered imper- 
fect. Where the poles are far apart and the Avires slack, several trees may lie 
across the line within a distance of eight or ten miles and still not break the wire. 
In these cases it becomes as tense as a piano string and gives forth a nmsical 
answer to the slightest vibration. The repairer usually exercises his discretion 
in adopting one of the two alternatives left, either to cut the wire or the tree. 
Mr. ShafFner mentions the case of an employe — an Irishman, it is presumed — 
who stood over the wire while he cut a tree that lay across it. Relieved of the 
pressure that bore it down, the wire suddenly righted itself, tossing the man 
about 10 feet in the air. His astonishment may be imagined, but scarcely 
described. 

The construction of the overland telegraph, under difficulties so numerous 
and so formidable, was one of the great triumphs of the present age. When 
we consider the vast extent of desert country traversed, the scarcity of material, 
the vicissitudes of the climate, and the hostile character of the Indian tribes 
inhabiting the wild regions through Avhich it was neccssarj^ to pass, the consum- 
mation of this enterprise is an event of which the American jDCople may be 
justly proud. No achievement of ancient or modern times surpasses it in the 
magnitude of the interests involved both to commerce and to civiHzation. It 
was the first grand practicable demonstration of the feasibility of a system by 
which the remotest parts of the earth may be brought into direct and instanta- 
neous communication, and thus the bonds of sympathy and interest strengthened 
between the various races of mankind. 

In anticipation of the difficulties likely to arise between the Companj^ and 
the public without an explicit understanding of the relations existing between 
them, Mr. Carpenticr, while acting as president, devoted special attention to the 
formation of a code of laws and regulations by which they should be mutually 
governed and the interests of each protected. Among the laws devised by him 
and passed by the legislature of California, the most important, and that which 
most intimately concerns the public, is the act of April IS, 18G2. This act 
introduces a new feature in the business of telegraphing, a feature not only 
novel in its conception and application, but of incalculable importance to the 
civilized world — the legalization of messages transmitted by telegraph in their 
relation to instruments and acts of law. 



440 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Appropriate provision is made to secure tlie public against dislionesty and 
fraud on tlie part of tlie operators and otlicr employes. Penalties are imposed 
for divulging tlie contents of messages^ clianging tlie sense or meaning, know- 
ingly sending false or forged messages, appropriating information to private 
uses, wilfully neglecting to send messages, or postponing or sending them out 
of order. Also, against fraud by any person whatsoever Avho may open seals of 
messages addressed to any other person, read despatches by means of any machine 
or contrivance, bribe telegraph operators to divulge the contents of messages, 
damage the line, or otherwise attempt to cut off communication. But the great 
feature of the law • that contracts by telegraph are deemed to be contracts in 
writing, and the signatures thereto are valid in laAV. Notice by telegraph is 
actual notice. PoAver of attorney or other instrument in writing, duly acknow- 
ledged and certified so as to be entitled to record, may, together with certificate 
of acknowledgment, be sent by telegraph, and the telegraphic coji}' or duplicate 
Yins, prima fade the same effect in all respects as the original. Checks, due bills, 
promissory notes, bills of exchange, and all orders and agreements for payment 
or delivery of money or other thing of value may be made or drawn by tele- 
graph, Avith full force and effect as if written. Persons indicted on oath for, or 
accused of, any public offence, may be arrested and imprisoned upon waiTant 
issued by any competent officer, properly indorsed and directed to such officer 
as may be legally authorized to make the arrest. Writs or orders in civil suits 
or proceedings may also be transmitted in the same way. All these provisions 
are carefully guarded so as to avoid any infringement upon individual rights, 
while they tend materially to promote the public convenience and welfare. 

A novel feature in this law is that the marriage ceremony may be performed 
without regard to distance. 

Upon the passage of tliis important act by the California legislature, Mr. Car- 
pentier proceeded to secure the passage of similar acts in the neighboring States 
ivnd Territories. On the 17th of October, 1862, the legislature of Oregon passed 
an act embracing substantially the provisions of the law of California ; this was 
followed by a similar act of the territorial assembly of Utah, passed January 16, 
1863. As the State of California, always in the lead, was the first to make a 
practicable movement towards the construction of the Pacific railroad, the over- 
land mail route, and the overland telegraph, so it has been the first to introduce 
this imporant feature in the laws governing the telegraph system. None of the 
Atlantic States, I believe, have yet adopted it, but they will doubtless come to 
it in time. 

A very general misapprehension prevails in the Atlantic States in reference 
to the frequent errors and interruptions which have attended the working of the 
overland telegraph since it went into operation. The inconvenience to which 
the public have been subjected has been patiently borne, until patience has almost 
ceased to be a virtue. The facts of the case are that east of Salt lake, within 
the past four years, Indian disturbances have been a prolific source of trouble. 
The stations have been attacked, the line broken down, the operators murdered, 
and all connnunication cut off, day after day, week after week, yet California is 
compelled to bear a share of the blame. Without attemjiting to cast any cen- 
sure upon the eastern division, which doubtless has done all in its power to pre- 
vent these interruptions, it has been the good fortune of the California divison, 
with the exception of a single outbreak at Ruby valley in 1864, to have had no 
difiiculty with tlie Indians. 

A marked difference exists between the character of the Indian tribes east 
and west of Salt lake. The Arrapahoes, Navajos, Apaches, and Sioux are 
powerful, mischievous, and Avarlike ; the Shoshones, Bannocks, Pi-Utes, and 
other western tribes are poor and less able to cope Avith the Avhites. I refer to 
the fact as shoAving a prolific cause of failure on the eastern side to Avhich the 
v;estern division is not subject. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



441 



In reference to tlie operations of the division between Salt Lake Citj'' ami 
San Francisco, there is not, I believe, a line of equal length in any part of the 
world upon which so few errors or interruptions have occuiTcd. The system of 
checks adopted is so rigid that it is scarcely possible for an error to pass through 
the office at San Francisco. When there is doubt in regard to a word the oper 
ator causes it to be repeated from the Salt Lake office ; if still the same and 
evidently an erroi', he causes it to be repeated back from the office in the Atlan- 
tic States where it originated. In the vast number of messages transmitted 
between Salt lake and San Francisco nearly every eiTor that occurred has been 
traced back to the other side. 

The greatest trouble hitherto in the working of the California division has 
been experienced in the Sierra Nevada mountains. This is now almost entireb 
obviated. The company have constructed four separate and distinct lines from 
Sacramehto to Carson : one by the Dutch Flat route and three via Placerville, 
each of which is in full operation. It is scarcely possible for any combination 
of circumstances to result in the interruption of communication upon all these 
lines at the same time. 

A new and substantial line has been built between San Francisco and Omaha, 
following the travelled stage route, making the second line across the continent. 
This was commenced as an opposition line by the United States Telegraph 
Company, but after completion between San Francisco and Salt lake, was pur- 
chased and finished from Salt lake to Omaha by the Western Union Telegraph 
Company. 

The Western Union Telegraph Company, having purchased a controlling 
interest in the California Overland Telegraph Com2)any lines, in June last took 
a lease of the lines of that company, and all are now worked under the name 
of the fonner company as their Pacific division. The lines of this division con- 
stitute all the wires west of Salt lake, from Los Angeles to a point in British 
Columbia 750 miles north of New Westminster, on Frazer river. This extends 
to near the boundary line of our Russian possessions. 

A ncAV line has been constructed by the AVestern Union Company from Salt 
Lake to Helena, in Montana, via Virginia City, Montana, between 500 and 600 
miles in length. 

Brigham Young has built a line some 400 miles in length, connecting the 
northern and southern settlements of the Mormons in Utah, 



Telegraphic Connections — Table of distances. 



Miles. 

San Francisco to Sau Mateo 20 

San Mateo to Redwood 8 

EedwDod to Santa Clara 21 

Santa Clara to San Jose 3 

San Jose to Centreville 16 

Centreville to San Leandro 18 

San Leandro to Oakland 8 

Oakland to Martinez 24 

Martinez to Benicia 4 

Benicia to Suisun 22 

Suisun to Sacramento 45 

Sacramento to Nicolaus 2G 

Nicolaus to Marysville 16 

Marysville to Tirabuctoo 17 

Timbuctoo to Grass Valley 19 

Grass Valley to Nevada 4 

Nevada to North Sau Juan 18 

North San Juan to Camptonville 8 

Camptonville to Forest City 26 

Forest City to Downieville 8 



Miles. 

Marysville to Ori ville 28 

Orivilleto Chico 2G 

Chico to Tehama 26 

Tehama to Red Bluffs 12 

Red Bluffs to Shasta 40 

Shasta to Trinity Centi'e 45 

Trinity Centre to Callahans 25 

Callahans to Rough and Ready 11 

Rough and Ready to Fort Jones 11 

Fort Jones to Yreka 18 

Yreka to Mountain House 40 

Mountain House to Jacksonville 22 

Jacksonville to Grave Creek 34 

Grave Creek to Cauonville 34 

Caiionville to Roseburg ^7 

Roseburg to Oakland, O 18 

Oakland to Eugene City 58 

Eugene City to Corvallis 40 

Corvallis to Albany 10 

Albany to Salem 24 



442 



EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Tabic of distances — Continued. 



Miles. 

Salem to Oregon City 38 

Oieg'ou City to Portland 13 

Portland to Yancouvers 7 

Vancouvers to Monticello 40 

Monticello to Drews 30 

Drews to Olympia 5'> 

Olyrupia to Steilacoom 22 

Slulacoom to Seattle GO 

Seattle to Pt. Elliot 35 

Pt. Elliot toTualalup ]7 

Tualalup to Swinomish 35 

Swiuomish to Sehome 37 

Sehoine to Semiahnoa 28 

Semiahnoa to New Westminster 25 

Sacramento to Folsom 22 

Folsom to Latrobe 17 

Latrobc to Shingle Springs 8 

Shingle Springs to El Dorado 5 

El Dorado to Placerville G 

Placerville to Sportsman's Hall 12 

Sportsman's to Sugar Loaf 22 

Sugar Loaf to Strawberry 12 

Strawberry to Yanks 13 

Yank's Station to Fridays 12 

Fridays to Genoa 12 

Genoa to Carson 16 

Carson to Dayton 

Dayton to Silver City 5 

Virginia to Williamsburg 131 

Williamsburg to Unionville 14 

Union '"ille to Star City 12 

Yai k's Station to Glenbrook 17 

Glenbrook to Carson 14 

Carson to Ophir 13 

Ophir to Washoe 3 

Washoe to Virginia 12 

Genoa to Wellington's 40 

Wellington's to Aurora 50 

Genoa to Markleeville 24 

Markleeville to Monitor 7 

Monitor to Silver Mountain 7 

San Jos6 to Warm Springs 14 

Warm Springs to Stockton 56 

Stockton to Sacramento 45 

San Francisco to Fort Point 5 

Fort Point to San Rafael 21 

San Rafael to Petaluma 24 

Petaluma to Sonoma 12 

Sonoma to Napa 12 

Napa to Suisun 20 

Sac! amento to Newcastle 32 

Newcastle to Auburn 4 

Auburn to Colfax 19 

Colfax to (irass Valley 11 

Grass Valley to Nevada 4 



Miles. 

Nevada to Dutch Flat 16 

Dutch Flat to Donnor Lake 40 

Donnor Lake to Steamboat Springs 46 

Steamboat to Virginia 12 

Petaluma to Santa Rosa 17 

Santa Rosa to Healdsburg 15 

Benicia to Vallejo 7 

Vallejo to Napa 16 

Napa toCaJistoga 26 

Sacramento to Auburn 36 

Auburn to Coloma 14 

Coloma to Placerville 9 

Coloma to Georgetown 9 

Georgetown to Todd's Valley 8 

Todd*s Valley to Forest Hill 3 

Forest Hill to Yankee Jim's 3 

Yankee Jim's to Iowa Hill 10 

Iowa Hill to Dutch Flat 10 

San Andreas to Copperopolis 15 

Folsom to Latrobe 14 

Latrobe to Dry town 14 

Dry town to Sutter's Creek 5 

Sutter's Creek to Jackson 3 

Jackson to Mokolumne Hill 5 

Mokolumne Hill to San Andreas 9 

San Andreas to Murphy's 10 

"TSnrphy's to Columbia 12 

Columbia to Sonora 7 

San Jos6 to Gilroy 30 

Gilroy to San Juan, S 12 

San Juan, S., to Kingston 130 

Kingston to Visalia 25 

Visalia to Fort Tejon 125 

Fort Tejon to Los Angeles 110 

San Juan, south, to Watsonville 

Watsonville to Santa Cruz 

Santa Cruz to Monterey 



OVERLAND. 

Carson to Dayton 13 

Dayton to Fort Churchill 22 

Fort Churchill to West Gate 69 

West Gate to Austin 69 

Austin to Grubb's Wells 51 

Grubb's Wells to Ruby Valley 62 

Ruby Valley to Egan 42 

Egan to Deep Creek 74 

Deep Creek to Fish Springs 52 

Fish Springs to Fort Crittenden 99 

Fort Crittenden to Salt Lake 42 

Swinomish to Fidalgo island 15 

Fidalgo island to San Juan island 12 

San J uau island to Victoria, V.I 20 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 443 

ARIZONA. 

SECTION I. 

GENERAL FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY. 

To be understood and appreciated, Arizona must be taken as a wliole. Those 
who know it only as " the Gadsden purchase/' those who have no knowledge of 
more than the Colorado river district, or who are only familiar with the central 
and northern regions, cannot form a correct idea of its resources and capabilities. 

The general lines of the Territory are thus defined in the organic act approved 
February 24, 1863 : 

All that part of the present Territory of New Mexico situate west of a line running due 
south from the point where the southwest corner of the Territory of Colorado joins the 
northern boundary of the Territory of New Mexico to the southern boundary line of said 
Territory of New Mexico. 

In other words, all of New Mexico, as formerly existing, between the 109th 
degi'ee of longitude and the California line, embracing 120,912 square miles, or 
77,383,680 acres, a district three times as large as the State of New York. 

The mountain ranges are a prolongation of those which, southward in Sonora, 
Chihuahua, and Durango, have yielded large quantities of the precious ore, and 
which, northward in Nevada, are attracting the attention of the world Avith their 
wealth. The general direction of the mountains and quartz veins is northwest 
and southeast, and there are numerous parallel ranges which form long valley a 
in the same direction. 

The Territory is divided into many mining districts, but as these are liable to 
oe changed at any time, the mineral regions will be defined under three grand 
natural divisions, viz : '' Southern Ai'izona," '■'■ The Colorado River," and '' Cen- 
tral Arizona," referring within these districts to the various streams upon which, 
or near to which, the placers or lodes are located, as affording the most definite 
description for permanent reference that can be given. 



SECTIOX II. 
SOUTHERN ARIZONA. 

This part of Arizona, known as the Gadsden purchase, was the earliest 
occupied by the Americans, and is still the best knoAvn. Until the beginning 
of the war it was the favorite overland mail route to the Pacific, and it is still 
considered the easiest stage route across the continent. Its mountains are nearly 
all mineral-bearing, and silver lodes near to the Sonora line have been to some 
extent worked. 

The principal towns of southern Arizona are Tucson, on the line of the over- 
land mail route, and Tubac, 52 miles south. Both have long been in existence, 
and are situated upon the Santa Cruz river, which, rising in Sonora, runs nearly 
directly north until it reaches the Gila river, near the Maricopa Avells. The dis- 
■"ances from Tubac, which may be considered in the heart of the mineral region 
")f southern Arizona, are, l)y the usually travelled roads, as follows : San Fran- 
cisco, 1,074 miles; San Diego, 510 miles; Fort Yiuua, 330 miles; El Paso, 
389 miles ; St. Louis, 1,770 miles. Towns in Sonora, Mexico — Santa Cruz, 
54 miles ; Magdalena, 51 miles; Altar, 95 miles; Ilermossillo, capital of Sonora, 
229 miles; Guaymas, port of entry of Sonora, 329 miles; Libertad, on the Gulf 
of California, 180 miles. 



444 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEERITOEIES 

The ores of silver fonnd in soutliern Arizona arc argentiferous galena, native 
silver, auriferous sulpliuret of silver, black sulplmret of silver, sulphate of silver, 
sulphate of iron combined. The gangue is usually quartz or feldspar. Tlie 
ores of copper are usually the sulphurets, principally gray. 

Nearly all the silver and copper lodes show traces of gold, and placers have 
been found at many points, but have not proved sufiiciently extensive to attract 
much attention. 

While, owing to Indian disturbances and the consequent high prices, and other 
serious impediments to mining operations, most of the lodes in southern Ai'izona 
are now temporarily abandoned, no one familiar with them doubts that some of 
them are valuable, and must eventually be worked with profit. 

The Colorado Mii^e. — This mine, otherwise known as the Heintzelman, 
(in honor of General Heintzelman, United States army, who was among the first 
of the American owners,) is situated on the south side of the Cerro Colorado 
mountain, about 22 miles west of Tubac by way of Sopori, and eight miles 
north of Arivaca. The lode runs nearly north and south, and may average 22 
inches in thickness. It is about 2,000 feet in length, and is distinct and separate 
from the porphyry rock on both sides. Mr. Sam. F. Butterworth, who, on behalf 
of the owners in New York, examined the mine in the winter of 1863-64, 
reported as follows : 

The principal ore iu the depth is silver-copper glance — containing au average of six per 
cent, of silver; this is accompanied by argentiferous gray copper ore, which averages two 
per cent, of silver. These minerals are very unequally distributed through the quartz; their 
presence in greater or less quantity determines the value of the ore ; at the present level they 
constitute about seven per cent, of the ore fit for reduction, making its value about $120 per 
ton ; at a higher level the ore contained fully 30 per cent, of these minerals. 

Guido Kiistcl, who reported upon the property at the same time, says: 

The main shaft, G feet by 12, well timbered, and furnished with substantial ladders, is placed 
on the east side of the lode, which pitching east, changes the inclination iu the deph, so that the 
shaft, which was calculated to strike the lode at 160 feet below the surface, may not reach it 
before 400 or 500 feet depth. The distance from the shaft to the vein, below the present work, 
is less than oO feet. 

There are other shafts, and some tunnelling and drifting, and the depth of actual 
working is about 120 feet. Mr. Kiistel furtlier says : 

The characteristic feature of this mine is the rich ore which shows everywhere. The prin- 
cipal oie in the depth is silver-copper glance, containing from 2 to 10 per cent, of silver, 
accompanied by argentiferous gray-copper ore, with from one to three per cent, of silver. On 
the more or less abundant appearance of these two minerals iu the quartz, the richness of the 
ore chiefly depends. The distribution iu the quartz is very unequal, sometimes in small par- 
ticles, and sometimes more massive. This last, representing the first class, when selected 
was formerly obtained ; about 30 per cent, of the whole mass of ore is fit for reduction ; but 
at the present level only five to eight per cent., so that over the average of the ore cannot bo 
estimated much over $100 per ton. This estimation refers to the vicinity of the main shaft 
for about 200 feet iu length. North and south of this part, the quartz prevails, making the 
ore poorer. 

Near the Cerro Colorado mine, and upon the same property, are other promising 
lodes. Mr. Kiistel refers to one of them : 

In Arivaca, a few hundred yards east from the lead mine, a quartz lode, " Mina Blanca," 
is found, (discovered long ago,) in which rich silver ore occurs. This vein was opened only 
about nine feet deep, and never further prospected, Mr. Higgings is informed of this mine. 
It is very probable that more good veins will be discovered yet in the neighborhood of the 
Colorado mine, such as do not crop out. Till now not much attention has been paid to this 
kind of prospecting. The best mines in Santa Rita are those lately discovered, of which 
no outcropping was to be seen. This was also the case witii the Heintzelman lode, 

Regarding wood, water, and the process for working the ores, he says : 

For about 20 miles round Cerro Colorado there is very little wood, but sufficient to supply 
a limited steam engine for hoisting the ore. Water is also scarce. The shaft at 100 feet 
depth gave as much water as was required for about 100 men and animals. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 445 

If the same quality of ore be found deeper in the Colorado mine, and this doubtless will be 
the case, the amalcramation in pans by way of roasting- cannot be recommended on account 
of the copper which would enter the amalgam to from 600 to 800 per cent. The smelting of 
the first-class ore cannot be introduced for want of lead ores. The richest ore was melted 
lorn-.erly with from 200 to 300 per cent, of lead ore. It was procured from the lead mine in 
Ari' aca. This mine, however, did not yield as much ore as required. Some lead ore was 
obtained from the Patagonia mine, under conditions that 65 per cent, of the silver contained 
in the lead ore had to be returned to the Patagonia mine free of cost. 

In regard to the scarcity of wood or fuel generally, whatever location may be selected, it 
appears that for the Colorado ores and circumstances, two methods of reduction should be 
adopted : First, amalgamation in barrels : and second, amalgamation by patio. 

The following is a report made to the Sonora Exploring and Mining Company 
regarding the Cerro Colorado mine in 1861^ by Colonel Talcott: 

Bcport sJiowing ihc qnaniihj cmd value of silver ore yielded hj the Heintselmcin 
mine, hoio disposed of] and ivhere that on hand is situated on the 1st of Juli/, 
1860. 

Pounds. 

Sold and taken by purchasers to Sonora 3, 880 

Sent by the company to San Francisco 44,037 

Sent by the company to Cincinnati 1, 400 

Smelted by the company 18,991 

Reduced by amalgamation at the Arivaca works of the company 586, 700 

Total sold and reduced 6.55, 008 

Remaining at Cerro Colorado 129,500 

On hand at Arivaca 443,700 

Total ore on hand 573, 200 

Total product of the mine 1,228,208 

The 655, 008 pounds sold and reduced yielded the company $45, 010 28 

Allow for ore on hand $90 per ton 25, 794 00 

Value of ore raised 70, 804 23 



General Heintzelman stated in a letter from the mine, dated 1858, that all the 
ore smelted to that date yielded $920 per ton. Herman Ehrenberg, civil and 
mining engineer^ wrote from Tubac in 1859 that 75 tons smelted or reduced in 
various ways yielded $41,180 in silver, or an average of $549 per ton. 

The Arivaca ranch, upon which the Cerro Colorado mine is situated, com- 
prises 17,000 acres, and was famous in the days of the Jesuit missions. It is 
thus described in the report of the engineer who first surveyed it : 

The Arivaca has much beautiful meadow land, fine pasture on the low surrounding hills 
for thousands of cattle ; live oak grows in the gulches, mesquite on the hills, and on the 
lower ends of the streams it is thickly lined for live or six miles with groves of cottonwood, 
ash, walnut, and other useful woods for farming and mining purposes, in sufficient quantities 
to answer all demands. 

On and near the ranch a number of silver lodes have been taken up. Upon 
the Euriquetta some expensive machinery Avas erected several years since, but 
like that upon the Heintzelman mine it is now idle. The lodes are probably 
too small to be profitably worked until mining can be conducted at less expense. 

Santa Eita Mines. — These mines are located in the Santa Rita mountains, 
some 10 miles east of Tul)ac, and 50 miles south of Tucson. Mr. Wrightson, 
agent of the company owning most of them, thus referred to their characteristics 
in a report made in 1859 : 

The ores of the Santa Rita mines are suited to both smelting and amalgamation. The smelting 
ores are those in which there is a large admixture of lead or very rich sulphuret of silver and 
copper. The amalgamation ores are those where the salts of silver and copper predominate. 



446 EESOURCES OF STATES AKD TEERITOEIES 

The Crystal and the Ercarnacion mines yield smelting ores. The Bustillo, the Cazador, the 
Ojcro, and the Fuller mines yield ores which by assortment can be treated by both processes. 
The Salero yields amalgamation ore. 

Raphael Pumpelly, mining engineer, made an elaborate report in 1861, from 
wliicla the following extracts are taken : 

The veins of the southern spur of the Santa Rita occur in a feldspathic porphyry, charac- 
terized by the absence of quartz, and presence of hornblende. They are not isolated occur- 
rences, but, as is usual ■with true fissure veins, appear in groups. Indeed, the entire range 
of hills, from the point of the Salero mountain to the Santa Eita peak, is an extensive net- 
work of lodes. They differ but little in the character of their outcrops, usually more or less 
porous qiiartz, blackened with oxide of manganese, or reddened with that of iron. Frequently 
green, blue, and yellow colorings betray the decomposition products of our argentiferous 
fahl ores. There is no reason for doubting that the great mass of these are silver leads, while 
at the same time there is the weighty argument of analogy in favor of such a supposition. 

The different leads present a remarkable uniformity of character. Having nearly all the 
same general direction, they also possess the same combination of minerals. Many of them 
have been prospected by small shafts, but there are hundreds apparently equally good that 
remain intact. 

Gila or Ojera Vein.— Direction north 69° east, south 71° west; inclination 81°. More 
work has been accomplished on this than on any other belonging to the company. The old 
Ojero and the Giia shafts, two frontons at the latter, and a small prospecting shaft, have been 
opened on it. In the beginning of 1860 good ore was discovered in the outcrop, and on exca- 
vating, a rich deposit of galena and fahl ore was found. 

The Salero has a different direction from any known vein of the district. Its course being 
about north 35° east, its continuation northeast mUst intersect that of the Gila. It is well 
defined, and presents every indication of a good vein. It possesses a shaft 69 feet deep, 
admirably equipped, and timbered in a very substantial manner. 

The Crystal has a direction of north 85° east, and is one of the best defined leads that 
have been opened upon. A shaft 34 feet deep and '^A feet of fronton have been accomplished. 
The ore is abundant, and being almost massive sulphurct of lead, will be of great value in 
smelting. It is associated with copper pyrites and zinc blende. Although the last nameu 
mineral is an unwished for ingredient, occasioning much trouble in the furnaces, still this 
difficulty can be to a great extent overcome by a careful separation. 

The low yield of silver in the crystal undoubtedly arises from the absence of argentiferous 
fahl ores, but I do not doubt that these will make their appearance, and with them an increase 
in the amount of silver. Should the ore continue as abundant as it is at present, or should 
there be an increase in the lead ores of other mines, it is probable that the reduction works 
would yield an excess of lead and litharge over the amount needed for their own use. 

The Buenaventura is one of the most interesting leads belonging to the company. A 
remarkable characteristic of this lead is the great facility with which the silver in its minerals 
can be extracted. Of this the following experiments will give an idea. A trial was made 
in the patio, and from what I can learn, from about 400 pounds of average ore, 20 ounces of 
silver were obtained. From another made on good ore, (10 pounds,) 1.5 ounce was the 
result, being at the rate of 336 ounces to the ton. 

The ores of the Santa Eita mines fall into two classes, lead ores and fahl ores, considering 
them mineralogically ; or into three, when classified according to the metallurgical process 
best suited to them in this country. 

1. Smelting ores ; galena and such fahl ores as are too rich in silver to be subjected to 
other processes. 

2. Eefractory amalgamation ores, containing a certain percentage of lead, and requiring 
to be I'oasted before reduction, w^hether this be accomplished in the patio, the barrel, or the 
salt process. 

n. Ores containing rich fahl ore, native silver, sulphuret of silver, and other simple or com- 
plex salts of this metal, with little or no lead, needing no roasting for the patio, and no magis- 
tral, or but very little. 

Under the first two heads come the products of all the mines excepting those of the Buena- 
ventura and Mascasa, which fall almost entirely into the last division. 

Nearly all of the ores will require a mechanical preparation before they can be submitted 
to the different processes. The more massive lead and fahl ores, with a small percentage of 
quartz, need simply a separation by hand. The amalgamation ores require crushing and 
grinding, and the majority of the smelting ores demand both crushing and washing to free 
them from useless gangue. 

The old ranch of Tomacacori, two and a half miles south of Tubac, is claimed 
by the company owning most of the Santa Rita mines. It Avas the seat of a 
Jesuit mission, and the ruins of a splendid church edifice are still to be seen upon 
it. Water for working the mines is found at this ranch on the Santa Cruz, and 
at one or two points on the Sonoita. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 447 

SoPOEl. — The raucli of Sopori, a noted property, lies soutli of tlio mission of 
San Xavier del Bac, nine miles south of Tucson, where is a costly church edifice 
erected nearly a hundred years since, and remarkable for its ar(;hitectural sym- 
metry and beauty. The Sopori ranch, through which the Santa Cruz river runs, 
has been thus described : 

Besides the bottom lands on the estate, which are partially wooded, a large portion is cov- 
ered with a dense forest, chiefly mesquit or locust, {Algarobia grandulosa,) while along the 
margin of the river are found Cottonwood, sycamore, ash, and walnut trees ; but the mesquit 
is the timber par excellence, on account of the many uses to which it may be applied. 

In the mountains, on the extreme eastei'n portion ot the estate, is pine timber. Between 
the timber lands and the mountains are large tracts of grazing lands, unsurpassed in the Ter- 
ritory for their excellence. The arable portions, before referred to, though limited, are adapted 
to the cultivation of wheat, corn, barley, and other cereals ; and to the fruits and vegetables 
of the southern States. On the grazing lands innumerable herds of horned cattle, horses, 
mules, and sheep were formerly raised, when the great haciendas and missions were in a 
flourishing state. 

The Sopoei Silver Mixe, upon the ranch named, has been somewhat 
developed by a New England company. In 1859, Frederick Brunckow, geolo- 
gist and mining engineer, made the annexed reply to a letter of inquirj^ : 

In answer to your inquiries about the mine and ranch of Sopori, in the Territory of Arizona, 
I have to say, that I am familiar with said mine and ranch, from a three years' residence 
in the vicinity as chief engineer of the Sonora Exploring and Mining Company, at Cerro 
Colorado. 

I have made several assays of the ore from the Sopori mine and found them to yield from 
10 to 15 marcs per cargo. The ore can be treated successfully by amalgamation, with the 
barrel process. The mine is well located, being near wood, water, and grass, the three 
necessary elements to its successful development. 

There is a small quantity of agricultural land in the vicinity, and an immense range of 
excellent pasturage. On the Santa Cruz river, near by, great forests of mesquit timber pre- 
vail. The roads are the best natural roads in the world. 

There may be other mines in the vicinity of Sopori. I have examined some outcrops in the 
vicinity, which proved to be argentiferous galena. Gold has been washed in t' is vicinity 
during the rainy season, and is to be found in the Tenajas mountains. 

Pine timber for building purposes can be obtained from the Santa Eita mountains, on the 
east of the Santa Cruz valley. 

Sopori is one of the best locations in Arizona for mining, trading, farming, and stock 
raising. 

MoTVET MiiSTES. — This well-known mining property has perhaps been more 
continuously and successfully worked than any upon the Sonora border. Some 
$200,000 is said to have been expended in the purchase of the property, the erec- 
tion of reduction works, houses for laborers, and everything necessary for an 
extensive and permanent establishment, including steam engine and mill. The 
district is finely timbered and watered, and proverbially healthful. Twenty-five 
tons of the ore were sent to Europe in 18G2. The result, (says Mr. Mowry,) -svas an 
offer of c£50 sterling per ton for the ore as it ran, properly cleaned. Some bars 
of lead and silver from the reduction works sold in England at S200 per ton, 
and many have been reduced at the mines, in an English cupel furnace, to sup- 
ply silver for the payment of cun-ent expenses.* 

F. Biertu, metallurgist and mining engineer, wrote a report upon these mines 
in February, 1861, from wliich the following extracts are taken : 

lustead of finding, as I expected, barren mountains, as at Washoe and Mono, I gazed on 
beautiful landscapes and a country covered with trees of different kinds, with fertile lands 
perfectly watered. True it is that the nearest neighbors, the Apaches, are far from being 
even equal to the Patagonians ; but this, it seemed to me, could not be a reason for giving 
to such a beautiful spot, which in spring must be covered with flowers, so savage a name. 
* *■ * •***#" 

The property, containing about 500 acres of land, is situated 10 miles from parallel 32° 20' 

* All the reports made upon this mine are, in my opinion, to some extent exaggerated. I 
visited it in 1864, and found that the average of ores ranged at $35 to $40 per ton. The 
lode averages about four feet in thickness. The mine has never paid expenses, but might be 
made profitable under judicious and economical management. — J. E. B. 



448 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

north latitude, wbicli forms the limit between Arizona and Mexico, 20 miles from Fort 
Buchanan, 14 from the town of Santa Cruz, in Sonora, and at an elevation of 0,160 feetfrom 
the level of the sea ; and a j^ood road, '280 miles in length, and which, with a little repair, 
might be made excellent, places it in direct communication with Guaymas. By this roirte 
freight from San Francisco to the mine does not go beyond five cents per pound. The mine 
is situated on the last hills forming the eastern slope of the Sierra de Santa Cruz, and is bounded 
on the northeast l)y extensive plains covered by the mesquit and oak trees, which reach the 
line of Sonora, whose elevated mountains rise in the horizon. Between these plains and the 
mine is to be seen the Sierra Espuela, called also Wachuka mountains. 

The road leading to the mine from Fort Buchanan crosses a range of hills and mountains 
completely covered with oak, pine, sycamore, poplar, willov/, and hazlenut. The land and 
the hills around the mine are covered with green oak, cedar, pine, and manzanitas. The 
whole country abounds with rabbits, quails, and wild turkeys. It is not a rare occurrence 
to meet droves of deer and antelope, numbering from 25 to 30. 

* * * #**** 

The principal lode of the Patagonia mine is composed principally of argentiferous galena, 
and runs south 85° east. Its thickness, which increases as it dips in the earth — now 83 feet 
in depth — is of aboixt three feet Three small veins, excessively rich, cross each other in the 
main vein, all running in different directions. The size of these small veins varies from 10 
to It) inches. Other veins, whose outcroppings are visible on the top of the hill, and which 
run in a parallel direction at a great distance, will, according to all probabilities, be met with 
as the working of the mine proceeds. The galena of the principal vein contains a small 
quantity of copper and arsenic. It seemed to me that I detected appearances of zinc, but I 
had no means to ascertain the fact. An assay of the different ores has given results varying 
from $30 to $70S in silver per ton, and up to Q2 per cent, of lead. Their reduction is of the 
utmost facility. 

Guido Ktistel sent the following' condensed report npon the Mowry mine from 
San Francisco to New York by telegraphy in April, 1864 : 

The lode, which is over 14 feet wide, runs east and west, between limestone and granite- 
like porphyry. It consists of sulphurets and carbonates of lead in manganese, often pure, 
containing iron, frequently in large chambers. Its great advantage is the presence of iron, 
manganese, lime, and lead, so that the necessary fluxes are in the ore in abundance. The 
greatest depth worked is 180 feet. There are four galleries. 

The present style of furnaces and system of purification are more like waste than rational 
working. Nevertheless, these furnaces paid all expenses, with 120 men employed. 

The present expense of working six tons per day is $15 per ton. There are many thou- 
sand tons of rock out in front of the main shaft, half of which is fit for melting after very 
simple concentration. 

Wood is abundant. Live oak costs |ll 75 a cord. 

With furnaces four feet square and ten feet high, and with proper treatment, more silver at 
less expense could be extracted. The best ore produces ,$350, the poorest $50 per ton. But, 
even reckoning mining and reduction at $20 per ton, facts and calculations show that the 
net profits of one day's work of 20 tons will be $1,280. 

A statement from Mr, Mowry, later in 1864, says the lode has 

Much increased in width and richness at the great depth of over 200 feet. The vein often 
spreads out into chambers of pure ore of great size, no gangue appearing between the side 
walls. Two peons have taken out 10 tons of rich ore in one day's work. 

Olive Miin'E. — Half a mile west of the Mowry mines is the Olive lode, of 
argentiferous galena. Three shafts of 30 feet each have been sunk in it, and 
the lode shows a w-idth of 14 inches. The ore worked to this time has given 
from $50 to $100 per ton. 

San Antonio Mine.— This mine is distant about six miles south^-est of the 
Mowry mines. It was discovered in 1862, and has been worked to some extent. 
Its ores are described as carbonates and sulphides of lead, the latter occurring 
in segregations. 

The veins in which these ores are found is composed of decomposed garnet, followed 
along some portions of its line of strike by limestone, bounded by a country formation of 
feldspathic and granetic porphyry. This vein varies on the surface from a few feet to 12 or 
14 feet in width. 

The Empire, the Eagle, the French, and the La Esperanza silver lodes, in 
the same vicinity, have been sufficiently opened to demonstrate the existence of 
argentiferous galena in quantities and of a grade that may eventually pay. 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAmS. 449 

Thr Gualota lode, four miles west of the Mowry mines, is a lode varying 
from one to six feet in widtli on the sm-face. At the bottom of a shaft oi 60 
feet there is a vein of metal three' feet wide. The ore is chiefly sulphnrets of 
silver, and there are traces of gold. 

The Fresnal lodes are about 60 miles west of Tubac, in the Baboquivori 
range. The country is very rough and broken. At places wood, water, and 
grass may be had, though generally scarce. The ores are sulphnrets of silver, 
and argentiferous galena, black and brownish ores. The chief lode, called the 
Prieta or Ajax, has bold croppings, and is at places 10 feet in Avidth. The 
lode has been traced for six miles. Twenty tons of the surface ore, reduced by 
the Patio process, gave $30 to the ton the poorest, and 645 the best. The 
size of this vein, (although it is not so rich as others already discovered,) with 
some facilities for working, will probably make it valuable. Three other veins 
have been worked in the Fresnal district, (so called from an old town now 
abandoned,) viz : the Colorado, and two not definitely named. Ore from the 
Colorado yielded $75 to the ton. 

The Cababi Min'es are in a district some 75 miles northwest of Tubac, in 
the Cababi mountaims. The veins are not large, but are moderately rich. 
The ores are of silver in sulphnrets, (amalgamating,) and have thus far been 
reduced by the Patio process only. The Picacho mine, sometimes called the 
Padreas mine, has a vein about three feet in width. It has been worked for 
many years, and the average yield of the ores has been about $80. It is esti- 
mated that the present owner has extracted $50,000. Mexican labor only has 
beeen nsed. The Tajo, the Providencia, the Tiger, the Cobriza, the Cokespa, 
and the Bahia mines, in the immediate vicinity of the Picaclio, are well spoken 
of. Some 50 tons of the Cobriza ore, (selected,) sent to Europe via Guaymas, 
and reduced by the best process, In'ought $550 per ton in silver and copper. 
Eight tons of selected ore from the Picacho, sent at the same time, yielded 
$1,200 to the ton. Mr. Pumpelly says of the Cababi lodes : 

The veins whicli I observed occur iu a quartziferous porphyry and in an amygdaloid rock. 
This latter has a browu compact base, containing' numerous acicular crystals of triclinic 
feldspar, and calcareous spar in impregnations and small threads. Cavities, some filled Avith 
Cjuartz and others with delessite, are frequent. 

A great number of veins of quartz and barytcs occur in these two formations, the latter 
seeming to prefer the amygdaloid rock. One vein of barytes, containing a "bonanza" of 
suljihuret ot silver, was found and worked by the Mexicans, and several specimens of heavy 
spar associated with silver glance from various localities were shown me. 

The Fresnal and Cababi mines are in the country of the Papago Indians, a 
branch of the Pimas, who have always been friendly to the whites. Hence 
operations upon the mines have n®t necessarily been interrupted. Mexican and 
Indian labor may be had at from $15 to $30 per month, and provisions may be 
brought from Sonera at low rates, flour seldom costing over four cents per pound. 
"While water is scarce, there is sufiicient for mining, and in the shafts of the 
Picacho lode there is nov/ so much that pumps are needed. 

At Quijota, west of Cababi, are gold placers (dry washings) long Avorked by 
the Papagoes, and now Avorked by them and at times by Mexicans, Avith consider- 
able profit. Large pieces of fine gold liaA^e been extracted, and the gold gen- 
erally is coarse. 

SiEKEiTi Mixes. — These mines are in the Sierriti mountains, about 30 miles 
nortliAvest of Tubac. They are of argentiferous galena. Work has been done 
upon the Benton, Belcher, and other lodes. There is an old gold placer at the 
Avest end of the mountains, long worked by Mexicans. In the vicinity is an 
abundance of Avater and oak timber, and some gold placers Avorked before the 
discovery of gold in California. 

Ajo Mikes. — These copper mines, sometimes called the Arizona mines, are 
situated northwest of the Cababi mines about 60 miles, and 40 miles south of 
the Gila river. The ores are principally of red oxide, malachite of copper, and, 
29 



450 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEKRITORIES 

gray snlplinrets. A number of veins have been opened, and the mines were 
steadily worked for three years. The ore was earried to Fort Yuma and thence 
shipped to San Francisco, to Swansea, and to Boston. A shipment of 30 tons 
of the red oxide ore sent to Swansea sold for $360 per ton, and is said to have 
been the richest copper ore of the class ever received there. Work was sus- 
pended upon these mines chiefly because of the lack of water on the desert road 
to Fort Yuma. 

Santa Eosa Miiv^es. — About 50 miles west of Tucson, near the road from 
Oababi to Maricopa Wells, are some copper lodes, with indications similar to 
those of the Ajo mines. 

Apache Pass. — South of this well-known pass, on the overland mail route 
to New Mexico, a number of lodes have been located by soldiers and others, 
but little work has been done. 

Mines neaii Tucson. — In the vicinity of Tucson lodes are not so numerous 
as about Tubac and the Sonora line, but a number have been taken up. 

Lee's Mine, 12 miles due west from the town, shows a vein two and a half feet 
wide, of silver sulphurets and galena. Some of the ore worked in an an'astra 
has given a return of S150 per ton, and considerable work has been done upon 
the mine. Five hundred pounds of ore lately smelted yielded 90 ounces of 
silver. 

La Pae, Mine, near Lee's mine,, is of a similar character and has a shaft of 
about 100 feet. About 25 tons of the ore have been smelted. 

Spangler Mine, some six or eight miles southwest of Tucson, is a copper 
lode upon which some work has been done. 

Victoria Lode is about 16 miles southwest from Tucson. Ten tons of the 
ore (copper) were lately taken out, and a part of the same has been shipped to 
San Francisco via Guaymas for a working test. The vein is some 10 feet in 
v.'idth. Four tests of the ore in small quantities have returned a vield of -15, 
71|, 72}, and 74f per cent. 

San Pedro Lodes. — The district of the San Pedro river is chiefly noted for 
its fine agricultural lands, but several promising lodes have been found in it. It 
lies east from Tucson some 25 miles. Mr. Pumpelly describes the ores as tetra- 
hedite and massive copper glance, containing copper jjyrites, with quartz and 
barytes for gangue from the San Pedro vein, and galena with iron pyrites from 
the St. Paul vein. The San Pedro river furnishes an abundance of water for 
all purposes. 

At the Canon d'Oro, on one of the roads from Tucson to the San Pedro, are 
gold [)lacers which are occasionally worked, and seldom without affording fair 
wages. There are evidences of work done upon them in years past. 

Maricopa Lode. — This lode, sometimes called Gray's mine, situated about 
70 miles north of Tucson and lour miles south of the Gila river, is considered 
one of the best copper deposits in southern Arizona. Mr. Gray thus described 
,the vein in a general report, made in 1860 : 

The formation of the district is primitive, cliiefly fjranite and sienite, with metamorphic 
and sedimentary rocks, and injected dilcos of trap and quartz. 

The lode was traced and measured ],6UU feet, having a width of from 8 to 12 feet plainly 
marked by its walls and out-cropping ore. The veinstone is quartz, with seams of argen- 
tiferous copper ore, at the surface a few inches wide, but which at six feet down appear nearly 
solid, covering the greater part of the lode. 

The copper glance and gray ore predominate, though at top the carbonates and silicates 
were intermixed. A branch vein shows itself near the place of greatest development. Here 
it traverses an elongated hill, intersecting it lengthwise, and protruding above the surface 
from one end of the hill to the other, a distance of 700 feet. The hill is 60 to 125 feet higher 
than the valleys and ravines surrounding it, and slopes for half a mile in the direction of the 
lode to the west, when the ground descends northward towards the Gila at a rate of 250 feet 
to the mile. 

The course of the lode is very regular, north 84A° east, or 5^° north of true east, and 5^'^ 
south of true west. The dip is to the north, and about 75° from the horizon, very nearly 
vertical as far as could be observed 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 451 

The elevfitiou of the Maricopa mine, determined by me Avith a fine cistern barometer, is 
3,378 feet aliovc the level of the sea, and 1,497 feethio;lier than our camp established on the 
Gila river six miles off, selected as a good site for smelting -works. 

W. E. Hopkins, civil engineer, iii connection Avitli the same report, speaks as 
follows : 

* * " We have traced the copper lode by distinct pieces of heavy ore for 1,600 
feet, about east and west; also, three other veins. The lode appears to be from 8 to 12 feet 
wide on the surface. 

The shaft we have commenced is on the main lode, and on a hill that rises from 60 to 100 
feel above the surrounding galleys. It is now seven feet square and six feet deep. The ore 
is increasing in richness, and the veins widening. The vein containing the copper glance, 
specimens of which you will receive, is now 20 inches wide, and occupies the south side of 
the lode. Next to this comes gray and gieen ores and the red oxide of copper. The lode is 
now occupied with the ore, so that nearly all that is thrown out goes into the pile to be 
smelted. 

The dip of the lode is now slightly to the north, and we suppose that it will run into another 
lode 25 feet north of it, and form a wider bed of ore than we now lind. 

We would express to you our confidence in the extreme richness of the mine, both from our 
own observation and the opinion of experienced miners throughout this section of country. 

We find the water-power on the river abundant. Mesquit is in sufficient quantities to 
furnish charcoal, which is of the best quality. 

Frederick Brunckow, assayer and mining engineer, made a report in January, 
18G0, upon some selected specimens from this mine, from wliicli this extract is 
taken : 

The specimens consisted of the outcrop ore of a powerful vein, and bear the i;nmistakable 
feigns of a true vein. * * As commonly by all outcrop ore, so here carbonates 

and silicates make their appearance, while the main body of the vein, to some extent below 
the surface probably, will consist in general of gray sulphr;ret of copper and other ores which 
abeady in large quantities appear upon the surface. * * j divided the ores into 
different classes, and assayed them accordingly. 

1. Fahl ore, (Tennantit, ) mixed with carbonate, contained to the ton f30 per cent, copper 
and 104 ounces silve.r. 

2. Gray suljihuret containing to the ton 60 per cent, copper and 93 ounces of silver. 

3. Silicate of copper containing 20 to 25 per cent, copper, and 20 to 25 ounces of silver to 
the ton. 

4. Carbonate of copper containing 25 to 50 per cent, copper and only a trace of silver; as 
carbonates and silicates are secondary formation, a large yield of silver could not be expected. 

The ore of this vein would be the cheapest and quickest Avay to reduce in a blast furnace, 
and run into copper ingots, which could be shipped, and afterwards be stripped of their silver. 
Iron crushers for breaking the ore, as well as the necessary blast, could be driven by Avater- 
power, of which there is at the Rio Gilo any abundance. 

Gexekal TvEMARks ox southern AEIzo^^A. — The foregoing reference to 
the principal mining localities in southern Arizona Avill shoAv that the country is 
j)re-emincntly mineral bearing. In most places there is a tolerable supply of 
mesquit timber, but water is scarce. The grazing is generally excellent. A 
great need of southern Arizona is a port upon the Gulf of California, and it has 
long been the ardent hope of the people that either Guaymas or Libertad would 
be secured. While the roads are for the most part good, the distance from Fort 
Yuma, the nearest American port at present, is so great as to involve large 
expense in the transportation of machinery and such supplies as are not pro- 
duced in the country. . 

Enough has been done to show that some of the lodes, if not remarkably 
rich, are sufficiently so to pay well when they can be worked at a reasonable out- 
lay, and as the Apaches are overcome, and the agricultm'al lands are safely cul- 
tivated, mining operations will probably be renewed. 

It is a well-authenticated fact that until the uprising of the Apaches, (about 
1780,) many of the silver mines of that part of northern Sonora, now consti- 
tuting southenr Arizona, were worked with remimerative results. 

Should a railroad from the Rio Grande, or from the Gulf of California, be 
extended over any one of the easy routes to southern Arizona, the country would 
be made an attractive mineral region, and would soon be well populated. The 
principal streams are the Santa Ciaiz, the Sonoita, the San Pedro, and the Gila. 



452 RESOURCES OP STATES AND TERRITORIES 

SECTION III. 

COLORADO RIVER. 

The valley of tins great river, "tlie Mississippi of tlie Pacific," may justly be 
considered one of the natural divisions of Arizona. Ascending the river from its 
mouth it is a distance of 150 miles to Fort Yuma, where the mineral district may 
he said to begin. Opposite to the fort, on the Arizona side, is the town of Ari- 
zona City. The Gila road to Tucson, and across the Territory to New Mexico, 
begins at this place, and the supplies for the military of southern Arizona arc 
forwarded from here, coming from San Francisco via the Gulf of California. 

Up the Gila, some 20 miles from the Colorado, gold placers were discovered 
in 1858, and caused some excitement. A traveller passing at that time says he 
saw 820 washed out of eight shovelsfull of dirt, and this in the rudest manner 
by an unpracticed hand. The diggings are in the sand-hills half a mile or more 
from the river, too far to carry water by hand, and as by dry Avashing but $1 or 
$2 a day can be made, they are now for the most part abandoned. Occasionally 
a strike is made by Indians or Mexicans, and 820 to 830 secured in a day. Old 
residents of the Colorado and Gila mining districts give it as their opinion that 
with water conducted to the placers they Avould pay well. A company organized 
in 186G for this purpose sent some machinery to Gila City, but subsequently gave 
up the enterprise. 

The first mining district of note on the Colorado is some 40 miles above Ari- 
zona City by the river, and known as the Eureka district. The ores are chiefly 
argentiferous galena, containing from 20 to 30 per cent, of silver. There is also 
a show of gold. The lodes are in the mountain ranges, and situated at from 1 
to 20 miles east from the river banks. They may be reached by trails. Generally 
travel is difficult in that region, owing to the rugged nature of the country. But 
few of the lodes taken up in the first excitement (1862) have been developed. 
Of those upon which work has been performed the Buena Vista promises well. 
The width of the lode in the main shaft (which is 60 feet deep) is about five feet. 
Some of the ore submitted to a working test gave a yield of 860 in silver to the 
ton. The Bronze, the Margarita, and the Vernon lodes yield ore of the same 
class and value. The country rock is granite and slate ; the silver veins are in 
pink and white quartz. Copper indications are numerous, and it is supposed that 
deposits of that ore exist here as well as further up the river. 

Silver Disteict, on the Colorado, north of the Eureka, has some well- 
defined veins capped with what the miners call ^'dry bone," containing consider- 
able zinc. The district has been but little prospected. Most of the lodes located 
are from three to four miles from the river. Upon one a shaft was sunk to the 
depth of 25 feet before reaching metal, when a good quality of silver and lead 
.ore was discovered. 

Castle Dome, 50 miles above Arizona City, is a well-known mining district, 
so called from an isolated mountain bearing a close resemblance to a dome. The 
lodes are in a range of mountains from 15 to 30 miles back of the river, but, as 
in the Eureka district, they are not very easy of access, and water is exceedingly 
scarce. A number of lodes have been claimed, and several companies organ- 
ized in San Francisco for their development. Those opened are from a foot to 
five feet in width, and well defined. 

Professor Blake states that the ores of Castle Dome are argentiferous galena, 
in a vein-stone of fluor spar, and that they contain 30 to 40 ounces of silver to 
the ton. 

Mr. Sao-e, one of the principal owners in this district, furnishes an estimate of 
what he believes the true value of the ores to be in San Francisco, and what the 
expense will be provided the mines can be made to produce regularly a large 
quantity of ore : 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 453 

Price of 60 per cent, ores per ton $50 00 

Castle Dome ores are 75 ounces of lead 12 50 

Add 75 ounces of silver per ton 75 00 

Giving for value of ton of ore in silver and lead 137 5C 

Deduct freight to San Francisco $15 00 

Deduct carting to the river 10 00 

Deduct mining and sacking 10 00 

35 00 

Leaving a profit per ton of 102 50 

Mr. Gird, another owner, values the ores at 60 per cent, worth $40 in silver to 
the ton; making — 

The value of a ton of ore $90 GO 

He allows for mining and sacking $12 00 

Carting to the Colorado river 15 00 

Freight thence to San Francisco 18 00 

45 00 

Leaving a profit per ton of 45 00 



The bottoms and ravines furnish cottonwood, mesquit, and ironwood, but not 
in sufficient quantities to supply fuel for reduction Avorks upon a large scale, and 
hence, as most of the Colorado river ores are such as require a smelting process, 
it will probably bo found most profitable to ship them to San Francisco. Lately 
a price has been offered in that city for lead ores from the Eureka and Castle 
Dome districts which is sufficient to warrant their shipment even at the present 
rates of transportation. 

In the Weaver District, nest above the Castle Dome di&'trict, the silver 
lodes arc much of the same character. Those of copper are quite promising. 
Of these the Colorado has a fair reputation. It is thus described by Mr. Herman 
Ehrenberg, a good authority : 

This mine is located on the cast banlc of the Colorado river, in the Territory of Arizona, 
nine miles south of La Paz, and about eight miles east from the river. The outcroppings 
are very heavy, fjnd may be traced for a mile by bands or isolated outbreaks of quartz mat- 
ter stained with carbonates, intermixed with copper-glance. The Colorado appears more like 
a mighty interstratified deposit of gneiss and metamorphic slates in which it occurs, forced 
to the surface by an eruptive mass of rock that breaks forth west of the croppings. Future 
developments may prove this appearance to be deceptive, and that at a greater depth the vein 
will have a greater dip, becoming more vertical, and, in place of following the stratification, 
break through them like a true fissure vein. It is immaterial, however, to which class of 
mineral deposits the Colorado belongs. If an interstratified deposit, or nearly horizontal vein, 
its great extent and width.on the surface and the rich ores it contains speak extremely favor- 
able for its becoming a lasting and extremely valuable mineral deposit. Many a great copper 
deposit, like those of Talhua and Mansfield, which have been worked for centuries, with 
immense success, are of a similar description, differing, perhaps, in the formation which 
encloses them being younger and less disturbed by eruptive forces. The ore already taken 
out may be divided into three qualities — the first should yield from 40 to 70 per cent, in cop- 
per, carrying with it a large quantity of silver; the next grade will give from 30 to 50 per 
cent, in copper alone ; the third grade contains free gold ranging from $30 to $100 per ton. 

A shipment of the Colorado ore was made to Richardson & Company, Swansea, 
Their return, dated January 17, 1867, gives a yield of 3 Of per cent, in copper, 
Avith 68 ounces of silver to the ton. They say they are ready to pay 6650 ster- 
ling per ton for such ore. 

The next district is that about the town of La Paz, and bears the same name. 
It was first explored in the Colorado gold excitement of 1862, and, indeed, little 
was known of the mineral resources of the Colorado valley until tliat year. Mr. 
A. McKey, member of the territorial legislature from La Paz, has furnished the 
annexed account of the discovery of the placers Avhich caused the upbuilding of 
La Paz, now a place of considerable importance, and a favorite shipping point 



454 RESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

for goods for Central Arizona ; Prcscott, the capital of tlie Territory, being at a 
distance of less than 200 miles in the interior, and Wiclcenbiirg at a distance of 
but a little more than 100, over remarkably good roads: 

Captain Pauline Weaver, and others, iu the month of January, 1862, were trapping" on 
the Colorado river, and at times would stray oft' into the mountains for the purpose of pros- 
pecting for gold. They had discovered what was then named and is still called " El Arollo 
de la Tenaja," which is about two miles north from El Canipo Ferra, and about seven 
miles east from La Paz. In this gulch they had discovered gold in small quantities, and 
had taken two or three dollars' worth out, which Captain Weaver kept iu a goose-quill. 

Soon after this discovery Weaver visited Fort Yuma and exhibitec^ what gold he had 
This evidence of the existence of a commodity so much sought for in this country convinced 
others that gold might be found in quantities by hunting for it. Don Jose M. Redondo 
having heard of the discovery, at once set out to visit the newly found "El Dorado " iu com- 
pany with several others, lie arrived a few days afterward at the camp of Captain Weaver, 
who pointed out to him and his party the particular gulch from which he had taken the gold. 
After a short examination of this place the party set out iu dilTerent directions to discover, if 
possible, something which would pay to work, and the extent of the placers. Within less 
than a mile from Weaver's camp, south, Redondo took a pan of dirt to prospect, and when 
he had dry -washed it, to the astonishment of himself and the party with him, he found that 
lie had one "chispa'' which weighed two ounces and one dollar, besides other small pieces. 
Others of his party found good prospects, but none of the company had come for anything 
more than to ascertain the truth or falsity of the reported glad tidings, and therefore were 
not prepared to remain and work for want of the necessary provisions and tools, but were 
compelled to return to La Laguua, a settlement some twenty miles above Fort Yuma, ou 
the Arizona side of the Colorado. After their arrival at La Laguna, and report of what 
they had discovered, a party of 40 persons prepared to visit the new mines. After their 
arrival in the placers, about the middle of February, 1862, discoveries were made almost 
daily, until it was known that every gulch and ravine for twenty miles east and south was 
rich with gold. Ferra Camp, Campo cu Medio, American Camp, Los Chollos, La Plomosa, 
and many other smaller places, all had their rich diggings, but the discovery made by Juau 
Ferra, of the Ferra gulch, was, without doubt, the most valuable of any. Very soon the 
knowledge of these discoveries spread to Sonora and California, and people began to pour in 
from all points, and continued to come until they probably nirmbered fifteen hundred. This 
population was maintained to a greater or less extent until the spring of 1864, when the 
apparent exhaustion of the placers and the extreme high prices for provisions caused large 
numbers to leave. The discovery of the Weaver and Walker's diggings, iu the year 1803, 
drew away many of the miners froiu these placers. 

Of the yield of these placers, anything like an approximation to the average daily amount 
of what was taken out per man would only be guess-work. Hundreds of dollars per day to 
the man was common, and now and again a thousand or more per day. Don Juau Ferr.l, 
took one nugget from his claim which weighed 47 ounces and six dollars. Another party found 
a " chispa " weighing 27 ounces, and another one of 26 ounces. Many others found pieces 
of from one or two ounces up to 20, and yet it is conteuded that the greater proportion of the 
larger nuggets were never shown for fear of some evil spirits, who infested the mines at the 
time. It is the opinion of those most couversaut with the first working of these placers that 
much the greater proportion of the gold taken out was iu nuggets weighiug from one dollar 
up to the size of the "'chispas" above uamed. I have often heard it said of those days that 
" not even a Papago Indian would v.-ork for less than $10 per day." 

As has been seen from the above, the gold was large, and generally clear of foreign sub- 
stances. The largest piece (above mentioned) did uot contain an apparent atom of quartz 
or any other base matter. The gold from the different camps varied a trifle in its worth at 
the mint in San Francisco, and brought from $17 50 to $19 50 per ounce. But all that 
Avas sold or taken here Avent for from $16 to $17 per ounce. Since the year 1^64 until 
the present, there have been at various times many men at work in these placers, number- 
ing in the winter months hundreds, but in the summer months uot exceeding 75 or lOU ; 
and all seem to do sufficiently well uot to be willing to work for the wages of the country, 
which are and have been for some time from $30 to $05 per month and fouud. No inconsid- 
erable amount of gold comes in from these placers now weekly, and only a few days ago I 
saw, myself, a nugget which weighed $40, clear and pure from any foreign substance. 

Some parties have lately come into these diggings with what is called concentrators or dry 
washers, which they have been working for a few weeks, aud in convcTsation with Mr. 
Finkler (an owner of one of these machines) he told me that he could make $20 per day where 
he was at work, aud pay three dollars per day for his hands, and that he only required four 
to work the machine. Should these machines prove a success these placers wiU soon be 
peopled again with industrious, prosperous miners. Of the total amount of gold taken from 
these mines, I am as much at a loss to say what it has been as I was to name the rrverage 
daily wages of the first years, and as I might greatly differ from those who Avere among the 
first ill these mines, I do not feel justified iu setting up an opinion as against them ; I shall, 
therefore, give the substance of the several opinions Avhich I have obtained from those avLo 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 455 

■were the pioneers of these placers. I have failed to find any one of them whose opinion is 
that less than $1,000,000 were taken from these diggings within the first year, and in all 
prohabiliiy as much was taken out within the following years. 

As might be supposed, the riclmess of these placers suggested the existence of 
vahiable quartz lodes in the vicinity, and prospecting began in 1863. The 
result was the location of a number of gold, silver and copper veins within an 
area of 30 miles about La Paz. Of these several have been opened, and the 
ores well tested. 

Coiy"STA2v"TiA MiXE. — A gold mine 12 miles east of La Paz has a shaft of 
75 feet, and some 20 tons of the ore worked by arrastras yielded S30 to $50 per 
ton. The vein is five feet wide in a granite formation and regular. The Las 
Posas is a similar vein. 

Conquest Mijte. — This is a gold mine, otherwise known as the Ravena mine. 
It is situated east of La Paz, some sis miles, and has been well prospected. A 
number of shafts and tunnels have been opened, and the vein is found to be well 
defined and promising. The width is from 3 to 20 feet. Some silver is found 
in the ore which is free from sulphurets. Gangs of men are now employed, as 
they have been for several years, in preparing this mine for working upon a large 
scale, and its owner, Mr. Ravena, is confident that he has a valuable property. 
He has alread}^, it is said, been offered $100,000. 

Ceuc Mixe. — This lode is also of gold-bearing quartz, with a mixture of 
galena in the ore. A shaft 50 feet deep has been sunk. 

PiCACHO Mine. — At a point some 30 miles east from La Paz, on the road to 
Wickenburg, a number of silver-bearing Ixodes were opened in 1863 and 1864. 
Much work was done upon the Picacho, and about 300 tons of ore were extracted 
from the shafts and tunnels, which amounted to some 600 feet in extent. For 
some cause or other the ore was not worked. The ore is of argentiferous galena, 
and the vein shows a width of about three feet five inches. 

Peach Bloom Mine. — A shaft of 80 feet has been sunk upon the lode which 
adjoins the Picacho, and is of a similar class. 

The Hughes, the Amekican Pioneer, the Scotty, and the Salazan silver 
lodes in the same vicinity are generally of the same class, but for various reasons 
have not yet been much worked. Good pay ore in carbonates and chlorides has 
been taken from the latter, but no permanent vein yet found. 

The Apache Chief copper lode, near the foregoing, is one of the most remarka- 
ble in Arizona, and at one time attracted considerable attention in San Francisco. 
The ore is found in deposits rather than in a regular vein, but the location is 
too far from navigation to make mining profitable at present. The country 
about La Paz is barren of wood saving mcsquit and ironwood in the gulches 
and ravines, and water is not almndant, althougii it might possibly be had at 
any point between La Paz and Wickenljurg by sinking artesian wells. A com- 
pany holding a charter for a toll road to Wickenburg and Prescott have proposed 
to sink several such, but have as yet taken no action. 

Ascending the Colorado towards Williams Fork, the mountains, nearly all 
show signs of metal-bearing. Perhaps the most striking and extensive group of 
copper veins yet discovered is in the Harcuvar chain of mountains, at a distance 
of 35 miles east of the river, and 55 miles northeast of La Paz, and a little north 
of the La Paz and Wickenburg road, before refen-ed to. 

Herman Eln-enberg, who was among the first to examine the lodes upon the 
Colorado, as he was those in southern Arizona, and who was noted for his 
cautious language, made a length}^ report upon the Harcuvar district, of which 
the annexed is a synopsis : 

The group embraces 18 lodes, makino- an aoforeo-ate of 51,200 lineal feet, 
fehatts have been sunk which demonstrate that they are not only large but per- 
manent veins. The rocks of the country are granite gneiss, fraciured at right 
angles to the plain or arrangement of stratification. The fissures are nearly per-. 



456 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TEERITORIES 

pendicular, and vary in width from 5 to 15 feet. Tlie vein mass consists of 
calcareous spar, tinctured green by the mixture of talc in small quantities It is 
(.listinctly separated from the connecting* rock by a narrow selvage of a feiTuginous 
substance, colored l^y hydrated oxide of iron. The sheets of ore arc compact 
and continuous, the mass of the gangue being found near one of the walls, both 
of the true walls of the different cuts having been reached in only a few instances. 
The several cuts show the same general bold iron-stained croppings, the same 
broad fissures, the same surface ores, similar dip, and nearly parallel bearing or 
strike. 

On the Cunningham lode the shaft has been sunk to the depth of 107 feet. 
The metallic j^art of this vein varies in width from four to six feet, the width 
gradually increasing Avith the depth. The ore in sinking assumes an undecom- 
posed and characteristic appearance, i. c. sulphurets and pyrites. The vein has 
a dip of nearly 80° north-northeast, bearing or striking northwest, and is sin- 
gularly regular, being traceable a long distance on the surface. 

The QuA-SHA-QUA-iTAn, another of the leads embraced in the group, has been 
sunk upon to the depth of 48 feet; it is a much larger vein than the Cunning- 
ham and has yielded some good ore. All the other leads have been opened by 
small shafts or cuts, and nearly all show the same bold croppings, similar dip 
and strike, and the same general character of ores. It is unquestionably one 
of the most promising groups of copper mines in Arizona. Assorted ores taken 
from these leads have been shipped to Swansea, and worked 37^ per cent. 
Assays made range from 30 to 70 per cent. These high-grade ores can be easily 
rained. 

Williams Fork. — Some 70 miles north of La Paz, Williams Fork, or, as it 
was originally named, "Bill Williams Fork," after a well knoAMi trapper and 
explorer, enters the Colorado from the east. It is the first tributary wortliy of 
note north of the Gila, and has its rise in the mountain ranges between Wick- 
enburg and Prescott ; the streams known as Kirkland creek and Date creek 
being its head-waters. 

The Williams Fork district is now the best known copper region in Arizona. 
The country for a number of miles on each side of the creek abounds in scattered 
croppings and masses or bunches of copper ore. It is contended by some that 
there arc several clearly defined copper lodes. A recent writer thus refers to 
their characteristics : 

The containing rock is of trapean character, and geologically speaking, comparatively 
recent, probably belonging to the early tertiary or eocene era. These copper veins are, from 
the present state of knowledge and observat'on, supposed to be composed entirely of fissure 
veins, or infiltrated deposits from the general impregnation of the containing rock, their 
materials laving made their Avay by plutonic forces through the trapean rocks, and their 
accompanying formations. The theory of the formation of this district is against a synclinal 
plutouic base, unlike the California middle copper belt, because the whole of the containing 
rock is the same. Its geognostic position, however, is, as far as authoritative geology is 
concerned, sufficiently true of a real vein formation. But one of the best evidences of the 
value of the copper deposits of that district is that they are massive, solid, and regular, so 
far as developed, whilst in the deposits the least infiltration is impregnated with carbonates. 
The outside gossair is usually of specular or magnetic iron, which is invariably found adjacent 
on the surface. Such is the character of the richest copper mines the world over. 

The Planet Company was organized in California in 1864; the company owns 
five claims as follows : Planet, 2,700 feet; Ashley, 2,100 feet; Wash, 2,100 feet; 
Sentinel, 2,100 feet; and Mountain Chief, 1,800 feet. To this time no work has 
been done upon the Sentinel and Mountain Chief more than that required bj^ the 
laws of the district, in order to hold them. The Ashley claim has been so far 
developed as to show evidences of a ledge of copper ore about 600 feet in length. 
Several cuts have been made developing indications of an average thickness in 
the ledge of al^out 10 feet. The character of the ore is malachite, assay 30 per 
cent, copper. Only about 25 tons have l)een mined from this claim. Tlie Wash 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 457 

claim is the wasli separating the Ashley and Planet claims. The Planet claim 
has been worked since the spring- of 1865, and about 800 tons of ore have been 
taken out. The ore is of gray and red oxide, average assay 40 per cent. It 
has been sold in San Francisco at an average of $100 per ton. 

The mines are located 12 miles from the Colorado, and within a quarter of a 
mile of Williams Fork. The cost of transporting ore to San Francisco was at 
first $60 per ton. It is now $28 per ton, and will probably soon be but $18 or 
$20. If the company could erect a warehouse at the mouth of the Colorado, 
and store the ore there until a cargo for a large vessel accumulated, it could be 
shipped from the mines to Boston or Swansea, at a total cost of not more than 
$25 per ton. Then 30 per cent, ore, of which there is a quantity in both the 
Ashlc}^ and Planet claims, could be profitably worked. Several other companies 
are engaged in working copper lodes at Williams Fork. Mr. Thompson, a 
l)ractical and enterprising miner, superintendent of the Great Central Compan}", 
has erected furnaces for smelting the ore taken from the Eliza mine, and althougli 
ho has had many obstacles to contend with, his experiment has not proved 
altogether unsuccessful. The Eliza is but 1,000 feet distant from the Planet 
It is thought by some to be upon the same vein, but this has not yet been demon- 
strated. According to a late report the company have two small furnaces run- 
ning, turning out copper from 91 to 96 per cent, fine, which is being shipped to 
San Francisco. A large lot of this copper has been sold for 15 cents per pound, 
$300 per ton. The cost of delivering such copper is but a little over $100 per 
ton. 

The ores of this mine are oxides and carbonates, very little or no iron or sulphur 
being present ; hence the company is able to turn out at one smelting a very 
good article of copper. Some of this copper has been used by the brass foundries 
of San Francisco, who have pronounced it a very fair article for many commer- 
cial purposes, just as it comes from the furnace. Within less than two months 
they will have a larger furnace in operation, which they think will be able to 
turn out from three to five tons of copper per day. 

The conq^any own two parallel ledges of 3,000 feet each. Only one ledge 
has as yet been developed to au}^ considerable extent. Upon this an incline has 
been sunk to the depth of 100 feet, at which point there are some indications of 
sulphurets coming in. At the depth of about 50 feet drifts have been run each 
way from the shaft about 100 feet, all the way in good ore ; vein varying from five 
to seven feet thick. The shaft is also connected with the surface by a tunnel, 
through which the ore will be taken out. The outcrop of the vein has been 
stripped quite a distance, developing good ore all the way. The superintendent 
estimates that he has 5,000 tons of ore opened to sight, which will average 
a yield of 25 per cent. He has lately taken out some ore yielding 74 per cent. 

Miis'^ERAL Hill, a locality near the Planet mine, has several of these so-called 
lodes, supposed to be valuable. The Springfield Company are now taking ore 
from the Orion ; a furnace has been erected by Mr. Knowles. At Empire Flat, 
10 miles south of Williams Fork, and three miles from the steamboat landing on 
the Colorado, the Challenge mine has been Avorked for more than a year, and 
about 500 tons of fair shipping mineral secured. The Kangaroo, tlie Bridal, 
and other copper veins promise well, and ore lately worked by an aiTastra from 
a gold lode in this vicinity gave a return of $85 to the ton. 

From Williams Fork to Fort IMohave, by the Colorado, is a distance of about 
70 miles. Just about the fort, Avliich Avas established long prior to the organiza- 
tion of the Territory, there are no lodes, but in the mountain ranges east, and 
north and east of Hardy ville, a town nine miles higher up the river, are some 
districts already noted for their gold and silver mines. 

The San Feaxcisco Distkict is situated some 12 miles from Hardyville, 
in a northeasterly direction. A stream called Silver creek runs tlu-ough the dis- 



458 KESOUECES OF STATES AND TEREITORIES 

trict from north to sontli. The features of the district, which is some 20 miles 
long and 10 miles wide, are tlras given by a recent writer: 

The bold outcrop of quartz lodes stretching from east to •west may be seen for a long dis- 
tance. Conspicuous among these ledges is the Moss lode on the north, the Skinner and Par- 
sons on the south. The aspect of these ledges is singularly wild and rugged, deviating 
seldom more than 4° or 5° from the east and west magnetic equators. There is another set 
of lodes much less numerous than the first, Avhose general direction is northwest and south- 
east, or more exactly north 20'^ west. These lodes, if prolonged, must obviously intersect 
some of the east and west lodes. They ditfer not only in their course and direction, but in 
their mineralogical construction. The first class, the east and west, are quartz lodes, charac- 
terized by the presence of feldspar and floursparas the associate minerals. The second set of 
lodes may be called calcareous, being composed to a great extent of magnesian carbonate of 
lime, or dolomite. In some instances these have quartz linings and polished walls. The 
Virginia, Olive Oatman, and Buft'alo arc conspicuous examples of the calcareous lodes. A 
third class of lodes is observed in the San Francisco district, whose direction is northeast 
and southwest. This class is very small, not including more than three or four, named 
the Pride of Mexico, Triniuverate, VVright, and Morning Star. In general the lodes in the San 
Francisco district are remarkably vertical, rarely deviating more than 30° from the perpen- 
dicular, and their outcroppings are commonly very strong and well marked, forming in case 
of the upper lodes conspicuous features in the topography of the country. 

The rocks of this district are exclusively porphyritic or volcanic. The porphyry consists 
for the most part of the feldspathic variety. The crystals of feldspar are implanted in a 
violet-colored mass, yielding, like most of the porphyries at Virginia City, at Esmeralda, 
Bodie, and in the Mojave desert, to atmospheric iuflueuces, crumbling into incoherent masses, 
or breaking away into acute and fantastic clifts. The gigantic quartz lodes, known as the 
Moss and the Skinner, contain imbedded in their inass, especially at their surface, fragments 
of scoriaceous lavas, and present in general a burned and roasted appearance. On the 
Organ caiion of the Mojave there are extinct cones of volcanoes, whose streams of lava may 
be traced for eight or ten miles, standing with vertical basaltic walls 100 or 200 feet above 
the plain, capped with scoria, whose surface still speaks of the sluggish nature of the once 
molten mass. 

The attention of the mineralogical observer is arrested by the similarity of the lodes in this 
region as compared with those of other districts, by the general absence of metallic sul- 
phurets, and the carious or porous character so common in the outcroppings of quartz in 
most auriferous regions, and not unlike those seen in some portions of Nevada. This char- 
acter of outcroppings of the quartz lodes in the Sau Francisco district is common to most 
outcroppings in the porphyritic or plutonic I'ocks of other mining districts in Arizona, as in 
the districts of El Dorado canon and the Wauba Yuma. 

Of the contents of the lodes the same writer has the following : 

The Moss, Skinner, and in general the larger lodes of the district, are characterized by the 
presence of an abundance of white feldspar, forming sometimes the mass of the vein ; the 
quartz existing then as a subordinate vein in the feldsparic and porphyritic gangue. The 
mineral most characteristic of the east and west lodes in the San Francisco district, next to 
the quartz and feldspar, which form the great mass of the lodes, is fiourspar, a mineral fre- 
quently seen elsewhere in the world as an associate in silver-bearing lodes — as, for example, 
in Frieburg in Saxony — but which is of rare occurrence in this country in a similar asso- 
ciation. 

This mineral is found abundantly in the Skinner lode, the Dayton, the Knickerbocker, 
and the Quackenbush, and has been observed in the Moss and several others. It is asso- 
ciated in them with free gold, horn silver sometimes in dodecahedra crystals and iron gossary. 
The outcroppings of the Moss lode form a most conspicuous feature in the landscape, seen 
standing up in bold crests from a long distance. This lode stretches in a continuous line for 
more than a mile, and is claimed for double that distance. It is distant north of Silver creek 
about two miles ; its course is aboirt west 5° north, nearly at right angles from the liver, 
from which it is distant about five miles. On the surface the outcrop shows a width of 
about 50 feet, rising to the height of from 50 to 100 feet above the arroya, sinking at intervals 
to the surface; its height above the Colorado river is about ], 500 feet. It has a southerly 
dip of 14° to 20° away from the vertical. The vein material is composed of whitish compact 
feldspar and quartz porphyry, intersected by veins of dense red, often marbled quartz, rich 
in free gold. Included in this vast mass are numerous sets of feldspar, hornstone, and 
quartz veins, also masses of gray porphyry, tufaceous and vesicular lava. 

The hanging wall of the Moss lode is an ash-gray, feldspathic porphyry, often intersected 
by thread-veins of quartz and liornstone, barren of metallic sulphurets, showing at ttie sur 
face no clay Avail, or fluccau, separating it from the vein. The absence of this character of 
permanent and Avell-defined lodes at the surface of the Moss ledge is in analogy with the 
character of many veins in Nevada, which, however, at a moderate depth acquire this 
feaUuc, as the Allen shaft shows to be the fact for the south or hanging wall of the Moss 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 459 

lode. The entire outcrop of tins lode has a burnt-up, dried and hardened aspect^ but is 
proven to be quite superficial by very moderate explorations. 

The bullion obtained from this vein contains silver enough to give it a pale, yellow color; 
tbe gold appears in beautiful polished scales, the flat surface often embossed with crystalline 
lines. The precious metal is sometimes imbedded in a compact red jaspery quartz, presenting, 
when cut and polished, beautiful graphic goldstone. This rich gold-bearing mass of ferrugi- 
nous quartz form the outcrop of this gigantic vein only at isolated points. These physical 
features bear great resemblance to that portion of the Comstock vein, which is still seen at 
Gold Hill, south of Virginia City, where similar rich deposits of low-grade gold Avere formed 
in the quartz outcrop, giving name to the town which has since sprung into such wonderful 
activity as the result of the development of the mines which have opened upon this remark- 
able silver vein. Assays of samples of the Moss vein show a value varying from $170 to 
several thousand dollars per ton of 2,000 pounds. Of the other lodes iu this district, the 
Skinner, on the south side of Silver creek, is one of the most conspicuous, and, like the 
Moss, show bold outline of outcrop. This lode shows drusy quartz, both compact and 
cellular, and ferruginous with numerous cavities, out of which flourspar has been decom- 
posed. Small traces of sulphide are seen at the surface, which is stained by black oxide of 
maganese, making portions of the outcrop quite black. This vein varies from aO to 150 feet 
in thickness. Its walls are ash-colored, feldspathic porphyry, in places beautifully polished 
on the line of dip 70° north. The vein aj^pear.s to be without a lining of clay, but like that 
whicli is so commonly seen in the outcrops of Nevada, that it is no proof of the absence of 
this important characteristic of a true vein at a moderate depth, assays of ores from this 
vein prove the presence of silver to the respective values of $^25, $74, and $83 to the ton of 
2,000 pounds. The Parsons, Hurst, and Leland are other gigantic lodes, south of the 
Skinner. The smaller lodes of this district seem to promise quicker returns for a less expendi- 
ture of money, such as the Caledonia and Dayton, a few hundred feet south of the Moss 
lode, and the Quackenbush and Knickerbocker, some distance south of the Skinner and 
Parsons. These veins are from three to ten feet in thickness, well defined, and showing at 
the surface all the characters of true metalliferous veins. Samples from these outcrops 
yielded in a mill from $40 to $250 j)er ton. 

Mr. A. E. Davis, of Hardy ville, has furnislied some notes descriptive of the 
Moss, Parsons, and several other lodes in the San Francisco district, which are 
given with a slight condensation : 

The Moss Lode was among the first discovered in this district, and is perhaps 
the best knoAvn. The vein is well defined for a dista^ice of two miles. The 
rock is dark colored and iron stained, the country rock is jiorphyry, the hanging 
Avair smooth and hard. Some remarkable specimens of gold ore have been 
taken from this lode. In blasting, in some instances, pieces have been torn out 
yellow with gold, and the face of the lode has shown streaks of the precious 
metal. It is not surprising that the owners have held their claims as high as 
$300 per foot. The gold is of a bright color, and usually found in layers as 
thin as paper, which makes it more showy than abundant ; the lode, however, 
promises well. There are several shafts, and recently a tunnel 300 feet in length 
has pierced the vein at a depth of 150 feet, where the vein is wide, and consid- 
erable gold was found, but fine and scattered. The tunnel enters the vein at 
right angles, and after reaching it follows it west for 300 feet, where a shaft 
descends from the surface. All the rock taken out bears gold, and the vein, 
from a width of five feet at the surface, increases at the greatest depth reached. 

A 10-stamp mill was erected at Hardy ville a few months since, and about 250 
tons of the ore have been worked, but the result is not announced. The cost 
of mining is $5 per ton ; of hauling to the mill the sAme. 

The Varsons Lode. — This lode runs east and west, and can be traced by neat 
wall of croppings for a distance of two and a half miles. The vein rock is 
chiefly a gray quartz, accompanied by flourspar. The country rock is blue and 
birds-eye porphyry. The lode is from 5 to 12 feet in width. "There are several 
claims upon it, "those best known being the Southern Cross and Queen of the 
Pacific. Upon the latter a tunnel of 210 feet in length, along the lode, has 
been cut. 

Crossing, or rather running into, the Parsons lode at nearly right angles is a 
lode known as the Michigan. The vein is about three feet thick, and a few tons 



460 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

of tlic surface ore worked in fin arrastra, g-ave a yield of 670 to the ton in gold; 
tlie tailings since worked yielded $S0 to the ton in silver. 

What is now known as the Southern Cross, or Hardy mine, is a location of 
1,800 feet on the Parsons lode and of ] ,600 feet on the JMichigan lode. I'lie Par- 
sons is probably the mother lode of the vicinity. Beginning at the easter.i 
terminus of the Hardy location, at a large wash, the lode takes its course west 
over an eminence, say 40O feet liigher than at the starting point, and this in a 
distance of about 1,000 feet. The lode is favorably situated for tunnelling, and' 
several tunnels arc already well advanced. A shaft between the two principal 
tunnels is now down some 80 feet, following the vein : it will need to be 200 
feet deep in order to reach the depth of the tunnels. The shaft is five and a 
half feet wide, but it does not occupy the whole vein. One hundred tons of the 
ore taken during the past summer from this shaft and from other cuts, and 
worked in the Moss mill, gave a return of $18 to the ton, while the assays of the 
pulp from the battery gave about $35 to the ton. This experiment is not con- 
sidered, owing to a want of j^ropcr facilities in the mill, an accurate test of 
what the ore will produce under proper working. The owner of the claim, Mr. 
Hardy, is pushing the tunnels and shafts forward, and is confident that he has a 
good mine. He has already expended $40,000 in opening it, and will soon 
erect a mill at Hardyville. 

The Ldnnd Lode, in this district, runs cast and west, and is about five feet in 
width. The rock bears gold and silver, the former predominating. The gold 
is fine and evenly diffused through the rock. A tunnel 150 lectin length strikes 
the lode at the depth of 50 feet, where the quartz is as good as at the surface. 

The MiklieU Lode runs east and west, with a slight dip to the north ; has good 
walls, and the vein is from three to six feet in width, of quartz and flourspar. 
A vein of quartz of a bluish color, varying in width from one to two and a half 
feet, runs the whole traceable length of the lode, and prospects Avell in gold. 
For my own satisfaction (says Mr. Davis) I took from this vein 10 pounds of 
quartz, a fair sample, and pulverized it in a hand mortar, when, washing it in a 
pan, it yielded at the rate of $150 per ton in gold. But little work has been 
performed upon the lode, owing to a want of means and to Indian troubles. 

The Sacramento District. — Nest to the San Francisco, the Sacramento 
is the best known of the districts adjacent to Fort Mohave and Hardyville. It 
is some 30 miles northeast of the latter plaae, and abounds in A^eins, several 
of which have been opened. This district is tolerably Avell AA^atered, haA'ing 
three or four small running streams and a number of springs. The AA'ater is, 
with the exception of two or three springs, of an excellent character. Pine and 
cedar timber are abundant, and the Avhole district is rich in nutritious grasses, and 
arable lands are near at hand. The mines are chiefly of argentiferous galena, 
and shoAv Avell in gold and silver. There are also some copper A^eins showing 
free gold. A correspondent has furnished the following list : 

Neptune Lode. — This lode shows a A^ein seven feet Avide, Avith walls of slate 
and granite. A shaft has been sunk to the depth of 150 feet. The ore shoAvs 
both gold and silver. 

Silver li ill Lode, argentiferous galena; a shaft 100 feet deep; A^ein four feet 
wide. 

Alcran^s L^odc, gold and silver ; shaft Q^ feet deep ; A'cin three feet Avide. 

Mohave Chief Lode, gold and silver ; shaft 45 feet ; vein six feet Avide. 

Antietam Lode, copper ; shaft 40 feet ; A-ein three feet Avide, two feet of Avhich 
is ore yielding from 40 to 80 per cent. There are also rich traces of gold and 
silver. 

Blue Bell LjOde, gold and silver ; shaft 24 feet ; vein tAvo feet Avide. 

Barty Lode, gold and sih- er shaft 26 feet ; vein tAvo feet Avide. 

Baniel Webster Lode, gold and silver; two shafts 20 feet each: A'-ein three feet 
wide. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 461 

Atlanta Lode, argentiferous galena ; shaft 22 feet ; vein three feet wide. 

Union Lode, argentiferous galena; shaft 13 feet; vein eight feet wido; show- 
ing a mass of mineral. 

The Wauba Ytima District is upon the road to Prescott, and some 50 
miles from the Colorado. 

Hero (says a writer describing the district) .seems to be an entire change in the geological 
formation ; the porphyritic and volcanic rocks giving a place to metamorphic schists, gneiss, 
and granitic rocks abounding with numerous veins of quartz, and is accompanied by a cor- 
' responding change in the character and direction of the mineral veins. Near the western 
margin of the Wauba Yuma district occurs a considerable vein of auriferous quartz, accom- 
panied by ores of copper and sulphurets of iron. It is located in a high granitic mountain ; 
it is called the " Pride of the Pines,^' and appears to be about 10 feet iu width, possessing 
promising characteristics common to the auriferous lodes of the Sierra Nevada, aud has the 
same northwest and southeast direction. Enormous dikes or roofs of quartz, and of course 
quartz ore, feldspathic granite, cut through the reddish gneissoid granite which forms the base- 
ment rock over a large part of the Wauba Yuma district. Upon these gigantic quartz ledges 
no exploration has been made, nor is there evidence of much metallic value in them. 

There is some timber in this district, chiefly pine, oak, and walnut, and it is 
well supplied with water and grass. 

The Fride of the Pines lode has a shaft 36 feet in depth, and shows a vein 
three feet Avide, in which there is considerable free gold and some traces of silver. 

The Ben FrcmJdin lode has a shaft 22 feet deep, and shows a vein four feet 
Vvide, with gold and silver. 

The El Bonifo, McAnneny, Florence, McClellan, Mountain Lihj, liithicon, 
and William M. Lent lodes in this district are well spoken of, and a company 
has been formed in New York to develop them. 

El Dorado caMn, upon the west bank of the Colorado, some 40 miles north 
of Hardy ville, is the centre of a silver district, in which a number of lodes have 
been located and several of them worked. Two mills were erected several years 
since. 

The Tchatticu]} lode is seven feet wide, well defined, and yields good ore. Four 
litmdred tons crushed averaged $70 to the ton. 

The Queen City, Indian Queen, and other lodes have a good reputation. 

This part of Arizona has, by a vote of Congress, been set off to the State 
of Nevada, but its inhabitants protest against the change, and the legislature of 
Arizona has unanimously memorialized Congress to reconsider its vote. 

Geneeal Remarks ox the Colorado River Country. — Although not 
well known until long after southern Arizona had been explored,, and not yet 
fully prospected, the valley of the great Colorado is entitled to some considera- 
tion as a mining region. The temperature is much like that of southern Arizona, 
and the region is about as well wooded and watered. The timber is chiefly 
mesquite and iron wood, and found iu the ravines and gulches. There is, also, 
considerable Cottonwood along the Colorado and its tributaries, and for mining 
use and fuel the drift-wood annually swept down the Colorado furnishes an 
acceptable suppl}'. 

The agricultural lands of the Colorado region are less extensive than those of 
southern Arizona, but where they are found they are mellow and fertile. Tho 
Yuma, Mohave, and Chimahueva Indians, friendly tribes, cultivate them with 
success, and gardens laid out near La Paz, Arizona City, Mohave, and Hardy- 
ville by the white settlers have produced abundantly. The broad plains lying 
between La Paz and Weaver and Wickenburg only need water to be made pro- 
ductive, and this it is thought can be supplied by artesian wells. 

There are various opinions regarding the navigation of the Colorado. Small 
steamers have for some years delivered freight at La Paz and Hardyville, and 
many persons consider the latter place the practical head of navigation, but of 
late several trips have been made to Callville, and it is asserted that the river is 
navigable to that point. The difficulties and delays are serious obstacles, but it 
is thought they may be overcome. Callville is some 600 miles from the mouth 



462 RESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

of tlie Colorado, and tlie roads to Salt Lake City, a distance of about 400 miles, 
are easy and safe. It is believed that the river may be improved so as to render 
navigation to Callville practicable in a commercial point of view, especi.-lly 
when boats such as are used upon the upper Missouri, and upon the Tennessee 
and Cmnbcrland rivers, are introduced. In the event of success, trade will be 
made . one of large profit, not only securing the transportation of great quanti- 
ties of silver and copper ores, but of supplies for all of Arizona north of the 
Gila, for Utah, and for parts of IMontana. The merchants of San Francisco, 
conceding the importance of the river as a channel of trade, have lately held 
several meetings to encourage navigation, and to call general attention to the 
practicability of the same. 

At a meeting of the merchants of San Francisco held September 27, 1867, 
G. W. Gilmore, esq., submitted the following report of observations upon the 
Colorado river, chiefly made during the trip of the steamer Esmeralda, Captain 
Rogers, in iSTovember, 1866 : 

Pout Isabel to Fout Yuma. — For tLo whole of this distance the river runs through an 
open country, presenting on either side wide stretches of bottom lands, covered with vegeta- 
tion and abundantly supplied with timber, mostly cottonwood, willow and mesquite. The 
Indians who live along the river cultivate the land to some extent, producing good crops of 
Indian corn, squashes, melons, beans, tomatoes, and other vegetables. Occasionally a Httle 
barley and wheat are planted, which always appear to yield well. 

About 60 miles above Fort Isabel, tule lands commence, extending along the river on either 
side for a distance of 20 or 25 miles, and back from tlie river to a great width — on the west 
shore said to be in places 20 or 30 miles in width. These tule lands are dry enough for cul- 
tivation, and hold out promise of great fertility. Above the tules the land is again higher, 
like that below, covered with vegetation and trees, and more or less cultivated by the Indians 
up to Fort Yuma. 

For the whole of these 175 miles the river has a very crooked and winding course, aver- 
agii^g in width probably half a mile ; and this average width, it may be here remarked, it 
retains for the entire distance up to Callville, varied from time to time by bars and bends, 
or by its passage through mountain canons and rocky obstructions. 

The tide ebbs and flows for 30 or 35 miles above Port Isabel in ordinary stages of the river, 
and for this distance on the flood tide salt water is found. 

At the rise of water the river will perhaps, on the average between Fort Yuma and the 
mouth, be five to six feet above low water level — the rise lessening towards Port Isabel. 

The channel, sometimes on one shore, sometimes on the other, has a width varying from 
one-eighth to one-third of a mile, and a depth of from four and a half to eight feet. The 
only obstructions of note in the entire distance to Fort Yuma are two sand-bars, which at 
times have not over two feet of water upon them, and are frequently, in low stages of water, 
consequently troublesome. It often happens that these bars are washed away and changed 
suddenly by the current. In one instance, during a single night, a bar with but two feet of 
water upon it disappeared, and 10 feet of water were found next day in its place. 

Fort Yuma to La Paz. — The river continues very crooked, having about the same aver- 
age width and depth of channel. There are perhaps three bars which may be called bad iu 
low water, though these are frequently cut away by the current so as to have plenty of water 
upon them. 

At high stages of water great changes take place in the channel. The banks are of light- 
colored adobe soil; they were in some places during last season's unusually high water cut 
away for a mile directly into the land, changing the course of the river to that extent, but 
leaving a new channel quite equal to the old. This cutting occurs at bends of the river in 
the bottom lands, which, as below Fort Yuma, are covered with vegetation and timber; the 
trees of the varieties already named are suitable for fuel, and are of very rapid growth. It 
is found that upon new lands formed by the cuttings of the river cottonwood, willow, and 
mesquite trees will be produced in three years large enough to cut for fuel. 

Fertile bottom lands extend with little interruption along the banks of the river from Fort 
Y^uma to the Barriers — the first rapids on the river, situated about half-way to La Paz. Here 
a range of broken mountains approaches the river on either side, and its channel passes 
between high rocks, which contract it and give it a current more rapid and difficult to make 
head against than any other rapid on the river excepting the Roaring rapids. At the Bar- 
riers there are two channels. The one used at low water is about 100 feet wide at that stage, 
the current flowing through smooth, deep, and very rapid. The rapids are short, probably 
500 yards, more or less. The other channel, used when the river is up, is wider and easier. 

After passing the Barriers, the mesa, an elevated gravelly plateau, generally barren, nearly 
up to the river in many places, breaking the bottom lands, and forming the banks for spaces 
sometimes of half a mile, at others of two or three miles along its course. Occasionally the mesa 
will form one shore of the river for a mile or two, Avhile on the other Avill be a fine open hot- 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 463 

torn. This mesa, where it slrikes the river, is visually 20 to 30 feet above the water. Tt is 
never overflowed, aud durinoj the mosquito season the Indians live upon it to avoid those 
insects, which are exceedingly troublesoni& upon the lower lands. All the way from Fort 
Yuma to La Paz the mesa can be seen from the river in the distance, bordering^ the bottom 
lands, though at times it seems to be 15 or 20 miles distant. The bottom lands prevail 
throughout the distance of 175 miles, probably covering two-thirds of the way. They are 
similar to those below Fort Yuma, as before mentioned, aud are to some extent inhabited 
and cultivated by the Indians, whose villages are occasionally seen along the river shore. 
Trees are quite abundant for most of the distance, and plenty of fuel to be had. Fuel cut 
by the Indians is not very good, as they usually take only dead trees or driftwood, instead 
of cutting live trees and piling the wood to dry. Driftwood upon the lower river is mostly 
of the lighter woods that grow there ; while upon the upper waters it is of wood having good 
substance for fuel. 

Above the Barriers is the well-known rancho of William Rhodes, extending 16 miles along 
the east bank of the river. The laud is cultivated to a small extent, and sustains large num- 
bers of cattle which thrive remarkably well. 

La Paz to Mohave Canon. — The character of the river is a little changed in these 100 
miles. It has a width of from one-eighth to one-third of a mile, and a depth ranging from 
four and a half to eight feet, with occasional bars having, say, 30 inches of water upon 
them. It is much less crooked than below. There is generally a good wide channel with 
a pretty rapid current, and occasionally a short bend which, at high water, will cause a 
powerful eddy, a little dangerous for a steamboat of insufficient power. There is, however, 
no broken water, and no dangerous rocks are to be found. 

The valley described in the last section extends, with little change of character, up to 
Mohave canon. About 30 miles above La Paz the Chimahueva mountains approach to 
within a couple of miles of the shores of the river, with a fine open country lying about 
their base. In these mountains are copper mines which promise to become very productive 
whenever work upon them, now suspended, shall be resumed. After passing Williams Fork, 
situated about 80 miles above La Paz, there is a distance of 18 or 20 miles to Mohave canon, 
through which the river passes, cutting its way for eight or nine miles through a high range 
of mountains ; flowing partly between immense precipices of rock, rising nearly perpendic- 
ular from its sides, and partly between masses of broken rocks and mountains. The chan- 
nel, however, is of good width and depth, free from dangei'ous rocks, and with deep water 
close up to the rocky shores, against which a steamboat's guards will touch while the hull is 
in clear water, free from projecting points of rock. This feature is constantly to be observed 
upon the Colorado in places where it passes between shores of rock, and is a most favorable 
circumstance for steamboat navigation. 

Mohave Canon to Hardyville. — Above the canon the valley again presents itself, 
ditfering little in character until reaching Fort Mohave, about 30 miles above. For this dis- 
tance the bottom lands prevail, bordered in the distance by the mesa, which occasionally 
comes up and skirts the river for short distances and then again recedes, leaving long, wide 
stretches of low lands covered with vegetation, and producing the same timber as that found 
lower down the river. Upon the east side of the river a Ibw Mohave Indians are scattered ; 
on the west, a small number of the Chimahueva tribe. There is a great deal of fine farming 
land lying between the canon and the fort, some of v.-hich is already occupied by Auiericans. 
Hero was located the Philadelphia rancho, occupying several miles along the east side of the 
river. Of this rancho a large 'part has been washed away and lost by the cutting out of the 
river during the past two seasons. 

After passing Fort Mohave the shores change. Low mesas, producing a little vegetation, 
form the banks upon both sides of the river, except when occasionally broken by small bot- 
toms of good land, some oi them occupied by a few Indians. Scarcely any timber is seen 
upon the river from the fort up to Cottonwood island. What little formerly grew upon this 
part of the river has been mostly cut off. 

For the GO miles from Mohave canon to Hardyville there is nothing serious to impede 
navigation. The river is much straighter than in the lower parts, and has no sharp bends 
and no bad bars. In some places a strong current is encountered, but there is nothing to 
stop a steamboat. The average width of the river continues about half a mile. The chan- 
nel in width and depth is about the same as that described in the lower part of the river. 

Hardyville to Cottonwood Island.— The shores continue of low mesas on each 
side. There is very little timber to be seen. Here and there is a small opening of arable 
land, breaking the line of the mesa. A few Indians of the Mohave and Chimahueva tribes 
are found upon the banks. The country generally presents a poor and barren aspect, but 
in a few places upon the small bottoms farms might be cultivated. A trifling amount of 
firewood can yet be had rrpon this portion of the river. 

For this distance the river may be said to be quite straight. Its bends are long and easy,. 
and it offers every facility for navigation. The few bars found have sufficient water upon 
them even at low stages. Some places are to be passed where there is a q\iick current, but 
there is no obstruction to navigation until the head of Cottonwood island is reached. At 
this place there is a sand-bar upon which the depth of water frequently changes, and which 
is said might sometimes in low water prove troublesome. When the Esmeralda crossed it 



464 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

there were five feet of -water njiou it, and that at a low stage of the river. The river con- 
timics about half a mile in average Avidth, and the channel about the same in deptli and 
width as in the lower river — ranging say from four and one-half to eight feet deep in most 
places. 

Cottonwood island, about 10 miles long by an average of about three miles vs'ide, is a fine, 
level island, fertile and covered with grass, and having considerable timber. Claims are 
said to have been located upon the laud, but it is yet unoccupied. On the main land on 
both sides of the river opposite Cottonwood island are fine bottom lands, with good grass. 

A large quantity of driftwood of superior kind for fuel, composed mainly of pitch-pine and 
cedar, every year lodges at the head and along the sides of the island — sufficient, perhaps, 
alone, if taken care of, to furnish the fuel for years to steamboats passing on the Cailville 
route. An immense C[uantity of this wood was upon the island, estimated at several thou- 
sand cords. The entire head of the island seemed to be formed of trunks of trees and sand 
washed in between them. The driftwood consists of trees, much broken up, of various 
sizes, not usually exceeding 14 inches in diameter. 

Cottonwood Island to Callville. — In these 60 miles are found the following points 
of interest : 

Round island, four miles above Cottonwood island. 

El Dorado canon, five or six miles above Round island 10 miles. 

The cave, five miles from El Doradocauon 15 " 

Roaring rapids, two or three miles above the cave 18 " 

[Explorers' rock is six miles above Roaring rapids.] 

Black caiion, 20 miles above Roaring rapids 38 '• 

Callville, 20 or 22 miles above Black canon 60 " 

From Cottonwood island to Round island, (four miles,) there is nothing serious to impede 
navigation. The channel is good, though occasionally some "strong water" is met with. 

At the point where El Dorado canon empties into the Colorado, (five miles above Round 
island,) mountains and high broken lands commence, and continue to border the river until 
the Black caiion is passed, a distance of probably 28 or 30 miles. 

From Round island to El Dorado caiion, (five or six miles,) the channel continues goo^, 
and withoirt obstruction, except occasional " swift places" of no great moment. 

After passing ElDorado caiion, and until Roaring rapids are reached, (a distance of about 
eight miles,) the channel continues good, with smooth water, but a quicker curient. No 
impediment is found here that could be at all serious in any stage of the water until arrival 
at the famous Roaring rapids. 

These rapids are caused by bars, composed of rock, gravel, and boulders, which make out 
obliquely from each side of the river toward the centre. The current strikiug these bars is 
deflected with a strong swell or roll from each bank towards the middle of the channel. These 
swells cause the water to break where they meet, and the water has then a straight rapid 
shoot down the contracted channel in the middle of the river. With the lead no bottom could 
be found in the rapids. The water appeared very deep, probably as much as 30 feet. The 
rapid water may be altogether 500 yards in extent, but of this the great obstruction is found 
in only 200 to 300 feet; there the straight rapid shoot above described is located. In these 
200 to 300 feet the descent of the water is plainly perceptible to the eye. By the use of a 
water-level it was found to fall in the neighborhood of four feet in the distance named. There 
is a rock here standing about five feet out of water, which is probably covered when the river 
is high, but is easily avoided, and in fact it would be diilicult to ruu upon it, as the swell and 
the course of the current would set a boat away from it. 

To pass the 200 to 300 feet of rapid broken water described, the Esmeralda placed a ring- 
bolt in the rocks above, (the only ring-bolt used on the trip,) and ran a line 800 feet in length 
to it. This line was taken to the steam capstan on the single purchase, and the steamboat 
Avas run up the 800 feet to the ring-bolt in seven minutes easily, and without apparent strain. 
For perhaps three-fourths of the 800 feet the steamboat slowly backed her wheel to keep her 
head right. 

After running the Esmeralda up, the line was taken to the loaded barge, which was hauled 
up in about 30 minutes, using the three-fold purchase upon the capstan. At this time the 
river was at a low stage, probably nearly as low as it usually gets. 

From Roaring rapids to Black canon, (about 20 miles,) there are a number of rapids. Of 
these only three arc of any consequence, and in them the water scarcely breaks at all. At 
the rapids the shores were always rocky, but there was ample width in the channel to clear all 
rocks, which were generally above water. Explorers' rock, situated in this portion of the 
river, is near mid-channel, and is seldom or never seen above water. Its position, however, 
is well known, and there is little danger from it, as there is about 100 feot of clear channel- 
way on either side of it, and the river runs with a still slow current. 

Black canon, from its entrance to its termination, is from 8 to 10 miles in length. In the 
canon the river has an average width of perhaps 200 feet. It is here a still deep stream, 
flowing smoothly, birt not very rapidly, between bold rocks, which, for a large part of the 
way, rise in precipitous walls to an immense height above the water. The channel is free 
from rocks from shore to shore, and has no sudden or short turns. The Esmeralda towed 



WEST OP THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 465 

Ihe barg'e through the cauon, not running a line more than once or twice, and that only to 
save fuel. 

Leaving Blaclc canon, the country again becomes open, with occasional bottom lands and 
grass on either side, up to Vegas Wash, six or eight miles distant. The river resumes its 
average width of about half a mile ; it runs with smooth v.'ater, but a strong current, to make 
head against which the Esmeralda constantly run lines. The lines were, however, only used 
to economize fuel, which must have been freely used to propel the boat against the quick 
current. Only the single capstan was used. No bars or rapids were found between Blaciv 
canon and Vegas Wash. The channel was in width and depth about equal to that of the 
lower river. A small tribe of Indians live along the banks of the river. 

From Vegas Wash toCallville, (12 to ] 5 miles,) the Colorado has a smooth slack current, 
and plenty of water. The country along the river is mostly mesa and sand, but with con- 
siderable land that seemed fit for cultivation. A few Indians are living upon this section. 
There is scarcely any timber growing from Black canon toCallville, (what was seen was wil- 
low and mesquite, ) but a little drift-wood lodges along the banks for the whole distance. 
Besides what the Esmeralda used, she left about enough of this drift-wood for one more 
tiip up. 

Nothing was seen of the Colorado above Callville. Information obtained showed that a steam- 
boat might possibly be taken up, with difficulty, to a point 30 miles higher, but that there, 
owing to the crooks in the river, she would be but eight miles distant in a straight line by laud 
from Callville. Mr. Smith, the Mormon agent, stated that threo nieu, at diflerent limes, and 
each ignorant of the other's proceedings, had been sent by B) igliam Young from Salt Lake, 
to examine the river and adjacent country ; and that each had separately reported that Call- 
ville must be the head of navigation. 

The Cave. — Two or three miles below Roaring rapids, and in sight of them, the river at 
a bend strikes the face of a steep rocky mountain. The action of the water has here scooped 
or hollowed out a very remarkable cave, about 70 feet in width at its entrance, extending 
directly into the rock tor about 200 feet, and having a height of perhaps 50 or 60 feet. The 
current setting into and out of this cave carries in and deposits sufficient drift-wood to keep 
it full to extreme high -water mark. When the Esmeralda stopped here for wood it was found 
piled in to the height of 20 feet above the then stage of water, filling the cave to about that 
height for nearly the whole extent. It is supposed that if the cave were cleared out every 
year, it would be filled afresh by the season's drift. If this be so, it will be readily under- 
stood how valuable the cave may become to a steamboat lino to Callville. There are high 
grounds near by upon which the wood, when taken out, could be safely piled. 

General Observations upon the River, &c.— The average current of the Colorado at 
ordinary low stages, where no contraction or special obstruction exists, may be about three 
and a half miles per hour. At h-gh water it is of course more rapid. Against such a current 
the Esmeralda, when under way, towing a loaded barge, would make about 40 miles per day 
from poiut to point, running only during daylight. When regular navigation is established 
boats will undoubtedly run day and night, except that when'reachiug any difficult place at 
night it may be necessary to wait for daylight, to pass. At least this will be the case for the 
greater part of the passage to Callville, say from Port Isabel to El Dorado canon, distance 
about 3.50 miles. Whenever steamboats get to running frequently and regularly, the con- 
stant stirring of the sand upon the bars will, it is believed, keep them washing away, so that 
a good depth of water may always be found upon them. A steamboat lor the Callville trade 
should have an 18-inch cylinder, draw not over 20 inches, and be not over 140 feet in length, 
with a large stern wheel. A boat like this would go from Point Isabel to Callville, with a 
barge in tow carrying 200 tons of goods, in 14 days, running only by daylight, at almost any 
stage of the river. When boats of this description are placed upon the river, the trips will be 
made with the same regularity and certainty as on the rivers of California. Up to this time 
there has never been a suitable boat on the Colorado. All are deficient in power and size, 
and som.e draw too much water. The Indians living along the whole length of the river are 
friendly and peaceable. 

Rough estimate of distances. 

Port Isabel to Fort Yuma 175 miles. 

Fort Y'uma to La Paz, 175 miles 350 " 

La Paz to Williams Fork, 80 miles 430 " 

Williams Fork to Mohave canon, 18 miles 450 " 

Mohave canon to Hardyville, GO miles 510 ' ' 

Hardyville to Cottonwood island, 30 miles 540 " 

Cottonwood island to Callville, GO miles GOO ' ' 

Other Statement.s. — At the same public meeting, R. G. Sneath.esq., of San Francisco, 
said he believed that freight could be put down at Callville for four cents per pound, and 
that a chance was now oflered to supply 125,000 to 130,000 people with the necessaries of 
life, and they ought to take advantage ot^it. In answer to question put by the chairman, he- 
paid that he believed that it would take from 30 to 60 days to run a cargo through to Call- 
ville. It would have to be transhipped at the mouth of the river, and it might be well ta 
transfer it again to a powerful boat below the rapids. 
30 



466 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Captain Rogers said, as far as his knowledge went, there was no particular trouble in navi 
gating- the river. There was a scarcity of wood for 50 miles below Callville, but the Mor- 
mons told him that there was a mountain at the back of that j)lace where there was plenty 
of wood, which could be obtained at reasonable rates, say about §7 per cord. Wood could be 
procured the whole length of the river for from $3 to $4 per cord, and by cuttiug it them- 
selves, for us. He thought that when proper arrangements were perfected the trip could be 
made inside of 15 days. The expense of running a steamer was less there than here ; it did 
not cost nearly so much on the Colorado as on the Sacramento river. Labor and wood were 
cheaper there. They pay $50 per month to men on the Sacramento, and on the Colorado 
only $25 ; they pay i|G per cord for wood on the former river, and only .$;> on the latter. 

Captain Rogers, in answer to questions, said that the currents were stronger and not so 
regular, on the Colorado, than on the Sacramento, but there was deeper water on the former. 
There were no sand-bars to speak of above Fort Mohave, and the river was not practically 
more difficult to navigate than the waters of the upper Missouri. He had no doubt in the 
world that it would prove the best paying institution on the coast ; it would certainly pay 
better than the Sacramento river.*' 



SECTION IV. 
CENTRAL ARIZONA. 

It was not until 18G2 and 1863 that an attempt was made tliorong-lily to 
explore Central Arizona. Whipple and Beale had crossed by the 35th parallel ; 
Aubry and Leroux had seen something- of the Salt and Verde rivers^ the chief 
northern tributaries of the Gila ; but no one had attempted more than a hurried 
passage through the country, although all believed it to be rich in the precious 
ores. Late in 1862, or early in 1863, Powel or Pauline Weaver, a noted moun- 
tain man, avIio had crossed Arizona by the Gila as early as 1832, was attracted 
by the placers at La Paz to look for others in the interior of the country, and 
started with a party of men for exploration. He found what have since been 
known as the Weaver diggings, near Antelope Hill and the town of Weaver, 
some sixty miles south of the present town of Prescott. About the same time 
Joseph Walker, another well-known and veteran pioneer, arrived at Pima Vil- 
lages with a party of gold hunters, and determined to go north to see what the 
unexplored countr}', from which the IndLans had often brought fabulous reports, 
really contained in the way of precious metals. This party discovered and 
ascended tlie Hassyampa, one of the main streams of Central Arizona, which 
has its rise about ten miles southeast of the town of Prescott, and runs nearly 
south until it sinks in the desert some twelve miles below the town of Wicken- 
burg. Part of the V/alker party went to the W^eaver diggings, where on the 
top of Antelope Hill, in a most remarkable position, Mr. Snelling discovered a 

* Although th« description given of the. Colorado river in the above report is substantially correct so far as 
relates to its general features, the difficulties of its navigation are considerably underrated. It should be 
borne in mind that these representations are made by parties interested in getting up a.scheme to secure the 
Utah trade. So far from the depth of water being greater on the Colorado than on the Sacramento, my own 
experience from Fort Mojave to Port Yuma, and all the testimony I have been enabled to gather on the sub- 
ject, furnish direct proof to the conti-ary. The deptli at the ordinary low stage on the Colorado is not more 
than two and a half feet on the bars. In January, 1865, the Cocopah, under command of Captain Robinson, 
one of the most experienced pilots on the river, was nearly two months making the trip frcm Fort Yuma to 
]'"'ort Mojave, and the draught of this boat was not over 24 inches. She was compelled to tr:;nsfer all her freight 
to .barges after passing La Paz. On the return trip from Fort Jlojave to Fort Yuma, without any freight 
whatever, she took nine days to make a distance of less than 300 miles downstream. The great difBculty 
arises from the constant shifting of the channels, caused by the caving of banks, deposits of sand iu new 
places, and consequent changes in the direction of the current. It is a peculiarity of the river that any 
improvement made in the way of dams, wings, or weirs must, from its very nature, be of temporary benefit. 
The natural laws which govern this stream are constantly in operation. New caves in the alluvial banks 
throw the current out of the existing channels; and even where this cannot. occur, there are always new 
deposits of sand made at their lower extremity, thus creating new obstacles. The Roaring Rapids form an 
almost insuperable barrier to navigation beyond that point, but it would be less difficult to make a permanent 
improvement there, where the banks are rocky, than iu the long stretches of the river below, where the banks 
are composed of s^nd. It certainly requires something more than the unsupported statement of an interested 
party, however reliable, to justify the assertion that the Colorado is superior to the Sacramento as a navigablo 
Btrenin, or that it can ever compete with the latter river in the extent or value of its trade. There is neither 
;he population nor the natural facilities to justify such a conclusion. Small steamers may possibly be con- 
structed to navigate the Colorado to greater advantage than those now in use, but I am clearly of opinion that 
.no extensive trade will euer fae carried on with Salt Lake City by the way of Callville.— J. R. B. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 467 

large quantity of gold, much of it in pieces of unusual size. One nugget weigh- 
ing a half pound was taken out. Much of the mineral was dug out witli com- 
mon jack-knives, and one man is said to have taken out $4,000 in a single day. 
It is the common impression that if water could he had at the top of the moun- 
tain much of the soil would pay very richly. A large amount of work has been 
done, and a great deal of money taken out along the creek at the foot of the 
mountain, where the mining town of Weaver is located. 

The Walker party gradually ascended to Hassyampa, finding gold at nearly 
every point, and in the winter of 1863 and 1864 taking possession of the Lynx 
or Walker Creek diggings, (ten miles east of Prescott,) from which it is esti- 
mated that little, if any, less than a half million of dollars have been taken. 
They also gathered much gold on Big Bug creek, four miles east of Lynx creek. 
As the placers were pretty well worked the miners began to look for quartz 
veins, and found no lack of them. All along the Hass\'ampa, upon the Agua 
Frio, a parallel stream of considerable size, upon Lynx creek, Big Bug, Turkey 
creek, and indeed upon nearly all the streams of Central Arizona lodes of gold, 
silver, and copper were found. In the excitement a great many Avere named 
and recorded which have no value. 

General view of the Peescott region of country.* — There are three 
elevated ranges of mountains preserving an approximate parallelism and trend- 
ing in general north and south. Between them are wide meridianal depressions, 
occupied by grass plains. 

The eastern range is called the Tonto Plateau, and is composed of horizontal 
strata of lime and sandstone, resting upon the surface of a broken granite sys- 
tem. The surface or summit of the chain is quite evenly level, a plateau of fif- 
teen miles wide and over a hundred long covered with pines. West of this and 
separated from it by the Tonto or Prescott plains, lies the Sierra Prieta; a con- 
tinuous elevated ridge of about 60 miles in length. 

Westward again is the Skull mountain chain, a less important formation. 

These Avill be described separately. 

The broad valleys between the two first ranges open northward and connect 
with the great Val de China, which lies beyond, bounded on the northeast by 
escarped mural edge of the great Plateau or Colorado Mesa, and on the west by 
the mass of the Aztec moimtains. This extended valley or plain system is all 
connected, and the entire drainage empties around the northern end of the Tonto 
mountains into the west branch of the Rio Verde. 

The valley lying west of the Sierra Prieta drains the Williams fork. 

The Tonto Plateatt. — This singular table range is unlike most chains in 
Arizona. It is, in fact, a part of the grand Mesa; its summit being on the exact 
level of the plateau, and only separated from it on the east b}^ the deeply crowded 
canon of the Rio Verde. This stream has cut down a valley of about 3,000 feet 
deep, and thus isolated the Tonto range, leaving it as an outlying strip of 
plateau, having the aspect from the country on either side of a true range. The 
excavation of vast valleys on its western side have left a high escarpment of its 
strata on that flank. 

Along its base, where the eroslm has cut deepest, granite cones of the under- 
lying system are laid bare, curiously varying the general aspect. 

The exact limit of this table in its southern extension is not yet known, but 
like the Sierra Prieta it must finally sink under the low plains of the Rio Salado 
and Gila. 

Its summit is about 8,000 feet high, rising at the northern end to nearly 9,000 
above sea level. Forests of 2^intis Fremontiana and pinus j)onderosa grow in 
considerable extent over its more elevated portions, and a most luxuriant growth 

* Report of Clarence King, esq., of the State geological survey of California, to Colonel 
R. S. Williamson on the geological features of Northern Arizona. 



468 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

of bunch and gramma grasses is everyAvbere found. Water is rare except in the 
two rainy seasons. 

The Sierra Peieta. — By refening to the map, the geographical position 
and extent of this important claim will be easily seen. I shall confine myself 
to a few notes on its structure, and the distribution of waters and timber. 

From our elevated position upon one of its culminating peahs, we could look 
down the line of the range and overlook a large portion of the wide-spread foot- 
hill system. In this description I shall use all the notes afterwards made from 
other'points of view, both from the valley of Kirkland creek and the summits of 
the Aztec chain. 

Granite Mountaix, the northern terminus oe Sierra Prieta. — An 
immense pile of granite rears out of the plains and low foot-hills which stretch 
eastward and south from the Aztec mountains. To the eastward it presents a very 
rugged front, deep scored by ravines and ribbed by cragged, precipitous spurs. It 
is an elongated mass, ending northward in barren rock cones of 700 or 800 feet in 
height, and on the south extending into the summit ridge of the chain. "Within 
a radius of four or five miles of the base the whole distance is occupied by low 
ridge-like masses of granite, which are covered w ith immense detached boulders 
poised one upon another in strange positions. Among these are many egg-shaped 
masses weighing 80 to 100 tons, balanced on the small end. 

General Structure of the Range. — The granitic ridge terminating in 
the peak just mentioned extends southward for about 65 miles, maintaining an 
average elevation of nearly 8,000 feet, rising in three conspicuous places to about 
9,000"feet each. These are Granite mountain, the northern terminus, Mount 
IJnion, about the middle of the range, and Bradshaw's mountain, its southern end. 
Its average extention latterally is 25 miles. The topography is comparatively 
simple, consisting of the central ridge, which is usually straight, and from which, 
at right angles on either side, project long rocky spurs descending at easy grades 
to the plains on Ijotli sides. 

Tabular masses of nearly horizontal, sedimentary rocks rest unconformably on 
the spm-s in the Big Bug district, south of Prcscott, varying the rolling character 
of the siuface. These isolated fragments of mesas are, Avithout doubt, relics of 
the same beds which form the Tonto and Colorado plateau, and Avhich have been 
accidentally left in the great period of erosim, when the main mass of overlying 
rock was worn away and carried oft" from the gi'anitic flanks of the Sierra. 
Accompanying the granite is a system of highly inclined (and even vertical) 
rocks, which strike with the range, skirting its eastern base, and forming the 
material of the lower foot-hills. Southward of Prescott this series of rocks Aviden, 
and finally occupy more than half of the eastern slope. 

They are of great importance geologically, as being the chief aimferous rock 
of the region, and enclosing, parallel Avitli their stratification, the main quartz 
lodes of the Prescott and Big Bug districts. Metamorphic slates, mica sheets 
and quartzites are the principal rocks, but there is interbedded a fine seam of 
micaceous oxyd of iron, a hematite of apparently great purity. This zone seems 
to be about 15 feet thick, and I have traced its indications for about 17 miles. 
West of Mint valley it is conspicuous in a sharp purple outcrop, Avhich may be 
followed north and south for several miles, dipping about 85° to the east. 

I'he detrital matter, sand, gravel and clay, Avhich has been brought down from 
the slopes of the chain and "deposited by former torrents in valleys among the 
lowest foot-hills, and even out upon the plains, has, in crossing the auriferous 
zone, become mixed Avith its peculiar rocks, and contains the gold resulting from 
their disintegration and decomposition. These gravel deposits and stream sands, 
although never (so far as knoAvn) so rich as the placer AA'ashings of California, 
are yet sufliciently charged Avith the precious dust to pay for washing, especially 
where water enough for extended operations is present. It is curious to observe 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 469 

along the placer grounds of this region numerous obscure traces of the former 
inhabitants. 

Circular mounds of stones occupy many of the little knolls and heights along 
the streams, and everywhere they exist numberless fragments of earthenware 
and glazed pottery are thickly strewn over the surface. That these ruins are of 
considerable age is proved by large cedar trees whose roots penetrate and embrace 
the confused rock piles, and which, by examination of the rings of growth, are 
found to be, in some cases, not less than 200 years old. It is firmly believed 
T)y many placer miners that the gold ground has formerly been washed over. 
This idea is based on the disturbed position of the boulders and gravel in the 
earth, and a frequent absence of that regular bedded structure which materials 
deposited by water generally have, and which the digging over and washing by 
miners must obliterate. It will not be long before this must be established or 
disproven, for it is impossible to suppose that no implements would be lost (and 
embedded in the gravel) by these ancient miners. It will be an interesting piece 
of history if the proof is finally found, that the former inhabitants, whose origin 
and life and disappearance is so wrapped in mystery, were, like the present settlers, 
in quest of gold. Of the metalic contents of the Sierra Prieta little is yet known. 
Gold is known to exist in considerable amount, how richly and how widely dis- 
tributed time only can tell ; rich sm-face specimens and the exaggerated ideas 
of prospectors are, of course, no more than an indication, not even amounting to 
a probability. That the rocks are remarkably rich in large quartz veins is true, 
but their characteristics are utterly unknown, and the rich surface distribution 
may not be continuous in deptli. 

Iron I have before mentioned as existing in a bed of hematite, but unfortu- 
nately the want of coal forbids the extraction of this most precious metal. It is 
quite possible, however, that the plateau strata lying east of the Rio Verde, and 
which are yet wholly unexplored, may be found to yield coal. Silver is present 
in certain galena veins in workable percentage. I examined, chemically, at Gen- 
eral Mason's laboratory, one specimen which contained over $400 to the ton. The 
copper indications arc frequent, but as yet no deposit has been suiliciently pros- 
pected to throw light on its occurrence. The soil of the mountain valleys along 
the chain is often rich in elements of fertility, but from the great elevation and 
great nocturnal radiation in the clear summer months, it is found that few crops 
can bear the rigorous climate, frosts occurring in every month of the year. 

TVmbee. of the Sieera Prieta. — Everywhere above 5,000 feet the range is 
heavily wooded with coniferous trees, chiefly %\\o pinus pondcrosa, wdiich ranges 
from the elevation mentioned quite to the summit. It has about the same habit of 
growth as on the flanks of the SieiTa Nevada, but averages considerably less in 
height ; its average is hardly over 150 feet. The timber of this species is decidedly 
bett(;r than in California, where, from the long-continued dry season, or some 
other powerful climatic cause, the wood is so brittle that a tree in falling will 
often break in five or six sections. 

All along the more elevated parts of the range are scattered groves of a fir, 
(abies DouglassU,) and the piuon, (pinus ediilis,) also a slender balsam fir, (pro- 
bably j9/ctY( grandis.) The timber of all these is very good for all the ordinary 
architectural purposes. 

A poplar, (p. fremaloideSjJ a tree having a very white bark and ragged, wide 
T)ranching habit, is found on the upper waters of all the streams, even about 
springs at the summit. Its timber is too soft for most uses. 

Another of the poplar family (a cottonwood) skirts the stream banks and beds 
in their levels, and continues downward into the extreme foot-hills to the sinking 
grounds. 

Near the lower limits of the yellovv^ pine timber are live oaksof two species, 
generally too small to be of value, and a large wide-spreading juniper, fj. pacliyp- 
ttkca.J These last are dotted over the foot-hills in open groves, and together 



470 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

with a walnut, wliicli generally keeps the immediate vicinity of streams, stray 
quite out into tlie plains. For 50 miles in length, by from 16 to 20 broad, the 
range is well timbered with the above species, and is decidedly the most favored 
region in this respect within a great distance. Very many years of settlement 
and enterprise would be required to make a serious inroad on this valuable wood- 
land, and unless the mines should prove extraordinarily rich it will always supply 
a large demand. 

Water System or Sieeea Pkieta. — Climatic causes, which everywhere 
govern the distribution of waters, are somewhat peculiar in their action in this 
region. We have not yet sufficient knowledge of the atmospheric changes to 
thoroughly understand the deportment of streams. 

In general, during the winter months, there is an immense precipitation of 
vapor over the whole plateau, which is deposited in the form of snow in heavy 
banks upon all the mountain chains and more elevated rolls of mesa. This 
period is not one of continuous cold, but is frequently broken by a few days, or 
even weeks, of mild weather, when the power of the sun rapidly melts great 
quantities of snow, and all the brooks of the Sierra Prieta are brimfull. The 
clear nights during winter produce an intense cold, the thermometer, even at Pres- 
cott, several times indicating as low as 11°, Fahrenheit; the melting of snow is 
suspended and much of the surface water frozen up, so that in the morning the 
stream is very low, Avhile by 3 o'clock p. m. of the same day it is a torrent. 

The period of winter is followed by a warm spring, when the air, instead of 
showing a diflerence of only 3° or 5° between wet and dry bulbs, indicates 28° 
and 30° of difference. 

The mountain snows are rapidly melted, and by May are nearly disappeared; 
then the streams gradually fall, the volume of water becomes less and less. 
Finally the}^ shrink back into the mountains, having an intermittent flow, chiefly 
hidden underneath the rivers of sand which fill their beds. Constant and rapid 
evaporation, caused by the thirsty condition of the heated air, renders the remain- 
ing waters alkaline. This season of droughts and shrunken streams gives way in 
July and August to a second wet season, one of copious summer showers. The 
conditions and geographical extent of this rain-fall are not known. 

Vast masses of cloud are almost dail}^ condensed over the crest line of the 
Sien-a Prieta, and toward the middle of the afternoon drift eastward. Similar 
storms p-ather alone: the Aztec mountains and around the isolated volcanic cones 
of the upper mesa. This discharge of rain is represented to be very rapid and 
great, and as accompanied by a brilliant dis})lay of lightning. 

The course of these storms seems to 1)e, according to general testimony, from 
the Sierra Prieta eastward, and from San Francisco moimtains southward and 
eastward, over the Megollon mesa. . This phenomenon, of almost daily occurrence 
during July, August, and early September, at the very season when over the 
greater part of Arizona plants are dying of thirst, has a powerful influence on 
vegetation, redeeming the land within its range from the condition of a desert. 
The influence of this season on the streams is not so great as would be expected, 
from which lam inclined to think that the discharge is chiefly over plains, where 
its irrigating effect is seen in a fine crop of grass. 

Water for steam purposes in the mining region is plenty, if used economically, 
throughout the whole Sierra Prieta, Imt all placer works, except single rockers, 
must be suspended during about half the year. 

Grass Plaixs kear Prescott. — The streams which rise among the volcanic 
group on the Colorado mesa join those from the Aztec range, and have excavated 
out of the mesa formations broad valleys, whose general elevation is from 5,000 
feet to 5,600 feet above the sea. Of these the largest is known as the Val de 
China. Williamson's valley, lying north of the Sierra Prieta, is also connected 
as an arm to the Val de China, and in the same drainage system are the con- 
nected plains between the Tonto and Prieta ranges. Taken together they form 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 471 

ail area of not less tlian 500,000 acres ; add to this about 300,000 acres of tliinly 
wooded foot-hills surrounding the plains, and, like them, Avell supplied with grass, 
and we have a region of grass land of nearly a million acres. 

In the coldest winters snow, although on rare occasions quite covering this 
area, never lies more than a few days. 

At present, owing to the Apaches, stock-raising is not possible, but if the mines 
should half come up to the wealthy yield which is confidently predicted by the 
mine speculators, both civil and military, this vast stock range will be a most 
valuable accessory to the mining settlements. 

The grasses are all of the kinds known as bunch grasses, never forming turf. 
How these would last if eaten down yearly and cropped closely, it is impossible 
to say. 

Water is not abundant over these plains, but the immense amount of drainage 
which flows beneath their surface and unite to form the west fork of the Verde, 
could doubtless be reached by wells not far below the surface. 

We remained aloft on the Granite mountain two days, February 21 and 22, 
studying carefully all the topographical features within the range of view. The 
night was comfortless, with a wind that cut through our limited supply of 
blankets, but the mild temperature we found on regaining our camp in the 
valley soon thawed us out. On the morning of the 24tli we started for Skull 
valley. Our road curved around the northern base of Granite mountain, through 
a succession of low spurs and intermediate valleys, the former covered with scrub 
oaks and chapparal plants, and the latter with a scattered carpeting of dry grass 
and the dead stems of herbaceous plants. Continuing on the curve till our 
direction was southward, we entered the upper end of a long belt of level grass 
land lying under the western flank of the Sierra Prieta, and called Skull valley 
from the number of crania the Apaches have thrown there. 

The following day (the 25th) was devoted to a fruitless search after a lost 
member of our party. The 26th (Sunday) was likewise spent in trailing the 
missing man, and by nightfall we determined that he must have gone to Skull 
Valley settlement. Four of us rode down there at midnight and fo'ind that 
Brinley was safe and had started back to look for our camp. 

A little after sunrise next morning we met the wanderer and took him back 
to camp. Monday Mr. Gardner and I, with one soldier, climbed a bold granite 
cone north of our camp, from the summit of which we had a fine topographical 
view. 

Near us, and bordering the Skull mountains, lay a rolling belt of foot-hills, 
chapparal-covered and roughened by outcrops of granite. 

Skull Valley. — This level valley is approximately 20 miles long, with 
bottom land of varying width, from one-fotirth to a mile, and winds between the 
foot-hills of the Sierra Prieta on the one side and a range of granite and sedi- 
mentary rocks on the other. It is intersected about midway by a cross ridge of 
granite, which has acted as a retaining wall to the accumulating detritus washing 
down from the mountain sides above it, damming it back and elevating the 
northern portion of the valley about 150 feet higher than the other. The mate- 
rial of the northern section is mostly of disintegrated granite, and the vegetation 
of a poor character, except two species of live oak, wliich flourish finely and 
seem always to like a granitic soil. South of the granite ridge there is a decided 
improvement in the soil, owing to the presence of metamorphic {nial pais) rocks 
Ijing west of the bottom. 

Here are the farming settlements, founded on a deep black mould of great fer- 
tility ; with a climate never very cold nor ever intensely hot, they .nay hope to 
accomplish considerable agricultural development. The w^aters of this valley 
flow southward through a gap in the metamorphic hills, and empty into Ku'k- 
land creek, a tributary of tlie Santa Maria. 

In the granite hills which project from the western range into the head of 



472 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

Skull valley, is a living- spring tliat contains sufficient water for a large camp, 
even in dry seasons ; good buncli grass imder the live oaks and scattered among 
the chapparal on all the hills, and a plenty of fire-wood, make this an attractive 
camp. 

The chain of granitic hills l3'ing west of Skull valley are at their southern end 
depressed, and finally buried beneath sedimentary beds. These are ])hysically 
of little importance, except as being the divide or water shed between Kirkland 
creek and tlie Santa Maria. From the granite cone spoken of above we obtained 
our first near view" of the great and interesting basin of the Santa Maria. 

It seemed to us at first like a confused labyrinth of rock ridges piled up one 
above the other without system or order, but a further study from several other 
points, overlooking it more completely, and several tramps into its depths, gave 
us a good knowledge of its structure. Before describing this singular place, I 
will anticipate our work a little, and give the results we arrived at in the road 
reconnoissance up to the Skull valley settlements. 

A road from Prescott, either to the settlement at Wickenburg, to La Paz, or 
to the mouth of Bill Williams Fork, must either follow the present road to Mint 
valley and around the northern base of Granite mountain, and down to Skull 
valley, making a long horseshoe curve, and returning in a distance of 38 miles 
to within ] 6 of the starting point, or cross the high range directly. We explored 
two passes over the mountains, one directly west of Prescott, which, from the 
great accumidation of winter snow, would be quite impassable during five months, 
and another called the Indian pass, which offers great facility for the construc- 
tion of a road. The Apaches rarely fail to decide wisely on all matters of trail ; 
a well-beaten path through the pass attests their sagacity. This depression 
can hardly be over 1,000 fcet above Prescott, and from its open, exposed nature 
it can hardly have more snow than the valley at Fort Whipple. Approached 
from the Prescott side, the pass is reached by a gentle ascent through rolling 
wooded country, and without any of the difficulties of ordinary mountain roads. 
A good covering of soil and generall}^ even surface leaves little to be done beside 
occasionally digging out stumps or picking away a few stones. The descent 
into Skull valley, although not so gentle as on the eastern slope, still presents 
no obstacles, either of grade or rocky surface, which cannot be overcome by a 
small expendiure. A road through here would be always passable, and would 
reach the Skull valley settlements in about 1? miles, saving 18 or 19 miles, and 
reaching the valley in one day less than ])y-the present road. 

Having reached Skull valley, a road from Prescott to Bill Williams Fork must 
either follow the present line to Date creek, or else cross the Skull mountains 
below Tonto spring and keep the high mesas of the Santa Maria. This latter 
is the shortest way, and we explored it to determine its practicability. 

February 28 we crossed the divide about a quarter of a mile from camp No. 
4, and descended gradually among rolling chapparal-covcred hills, following the 
dry tributary of the Santa Maria. After marching about four miles ^\ e found 
ourselves on the brink of a deep impassable canon, with rugged vertical walls of 
black cellular rocks. In the bottom were chaotic piles of angular debris, for- 
bidding a passage down the caiion, even had we found a place to descend. To 
go around the head of the canon would only lead into a maze of deeper ones. 
Our only way was to keep the high mesa and work westward parallel to the 
caiion, crossing the lateral gorges whicli were made by its tributary streams. 
Into one of these we were forced to descend to a depth of fully 1,000 feet, and 
at an angle so great as to forbid the approach of a wagon road, except by zigzag 
to and fro at great expense. Having regained the opposite summit of the mesa, 
we continued southwest, folloAving an old Indian trail skirting the borders of 
the canon. The surface of this plateau is thickly strewn witli blocks and frag- 
ments of all sizes of a dark brown cellular rock, half buried in the earth ; their 
sharp edgejs cut our mules' hoofs, and rendered footing exceedingly insecure 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 473 

The soil formed by the decomposition of this vial jjais rock forms, -when 
thorong-hly soaked in the wet season, a remarkably tenacious miry clay, which 
alone, even if there were no difficult canons, would at times make a road quite 
im})assable. 

The mules struggled on over this rough table-land, and about the middle of 
the afternoon brought us to a singular depression, where we found water and 
camped. 

A granite cone rose out of the mal 'pais, and all around its base the strata have 
been worn away, leaving a round basin, in the middle of which is the cone of 
1,500 or 1,800 feet height. Here is permanent water in tanks, and a good camp 
ground ; grass, in great quantities and of excellent kinds, abounds all over the 
neighboring hills and mesas, and wood enough for all camp purposes may be 
collected from the shrubby cedars. Mr. Gardner climbed the cone on the following 
day, while I explored the canons and tables for a road line. 

From this camp we made a number of pedestrian excursions, getting at last a 
complete knowledge of the sun-ounding topography. The difficulties which lie 
in the way of a road are all of them of a nature that can be overcome, but only 
Avith a very great expenditure. Compared with the very small gain in distance 
over the Date Creek road, it is much more than compensated by the accidental 
character of the ground. 

In moving our camp wo descended into a canon which winds through a laby- 
rinth of confused piles of granite, the trail doubling and twining to avoid impass- 
able crags, and finally emerging on the edge of a mesa, from Avhich a steep 
declivity of about a thousand feet leads to the rolling country bordering the 
valley of Kirkland creek. 

Thompson's valley is a circular expansion of the main Kirkland valley, and 
is of topographical interest, as its present water s^^stem is divided by a low, flat 
spur, a half draining down one side of a high granitic ridge and half down the 
other, uniting about four miles below, and flowing as one stream into the Santa 
Maria. 

We followed the dry canon of the northern branch, keeping the naiTow, sandy 
bed as it wound back and forth between the interlocking spurs which jutted from 
high granitic ridges on either side. Tall, monumental plants of the Cerius 
Giganticiis stood erect among the debris and rock ruins ; their shafts of fluted 
green, leafless, and trimmed with thorns, heighten the savage aspect of the defile. 

The pass opens, after four miles of winding, into an open valley lying along 
the Santa Maria. This level area of about 2,000 acres of sandy soil is bordered 
on the west by granitic mountains, through which the river in its westward 
course has cut a deep gateway. Upon the east is a high boundary wall, formcxi 
of the escarped edge of the mesa. Here we camped for about 10 days. 

After exploring in all dnections as'^far as we could on foot, Mr. Gardner, Mr. 
Brinley, and myself, with three soldiers, made a little trip nOi-thwestward, climbing 
two high steps of the mesa system, and reaching, after two hard days' tramp, a 
culminating point of the Aztec range. This we climbed and spent two days on 
its sunnnit. 

Our first day was half in clouds, half in sunshine. Bitter snow-stonns, which 
almost hom-ly swept over, accompanied by thunder, completely shut out all viev/. 
These alternate periods of cloud shadows and sudden bursts of dazzling sun- 
light were of wonderful picturesqueness, but they rendered our work very unsat- 
isfactory. The second day, however, was of that peculiar clearness which so 
often succeeds a storm in mountain countries. The immediately surrounding 
region, from the Mojave road, at Fort Rock springs, down to Date creek, 
excluding the remarkable basin of the Santa Maria, Avas in plain siglit and in 
position to be easily studied out. The great plateau is not broken off here in 
one high bluff, as in the Val de China and Yampai valley, but descends in long 
slopes and broken steps, which are everywhere cut by remarkably broken, abrupt 



474 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

caiioiis. Tlic SantcO, Maria basin was itself excavated by aquaceous action from 
one of these steps, asid then in a subsequent period of much greater erosive 
action was deeply gashed down by narrow, converging canon?, with tabular 
ridges, mere tongues of land, left between them, so that the former surface of the 
basin is now 2,000 and 3,000 feet above the present stream beds, and only 
remains in the form of mesa peninsulas. Among these, here and there rise bold 
granite peaks, of generally angular outline and rugged surface, suggesting the 
architecture of mighty pyramids from the solid strata which have long over- 
whelmed and hidden them. A more difficult region to travel over cannot be 
imagined, nor one which presents less inducement for settlements. 

Tlie mesa plains are indeed well clothed with grass, but they are hard to 
reach and far from any tillable land ; besides, the dry climate and scarcity of 
water must always keep them in their present desolate condition. 

The great streams have long ago shrunken away. The torrents which excavated 
these remarkable canons are generally now a mere river of sand, only flowing 
during the rapid melting of snows on the neighboring hills, or rarely in summer, 
when a dense storm-cloud bursts over the gulf w'alls and pours down its deluge. 

There is evidence that even now these occasional floods sometimes occur. 
With their exception the streams are mere brooklets, saturated with bitter alka- 
line salts, and for the greater part of their course trickling and filtering along 
the bed rock under a covering of hot sand. 

The water-loving cottonwoods, b}^ deeply rooting themselves on the margin 
of these river beds, where they can drink up the subterranean moisture, manage 
to live, their fresh, vivid green contrasting strongly w-ith the red-brown rooks 
and dusky olive vegetation of artemesia and larrea. 

From our station we could trace each caiion, and here and there a w^idening 
of the Avails would open to view the lower depths, where a line of rich green 
willows and cottonwoods fringed the sandy stream bed. 

Northward and northwest the long level table lines are broken by Cygnus 
and Gemini, two loft}' snow-clad mountains, the former an irregular pile, capped 
by a rough-hewn dome, the latter a S3'mmetrical cone of black volcanic material. 
Between them and encircling their bases is a slope of mesa, furrowed by canons, 
which deepen as they continue westward till they break through among the 
mesa steps and granitic hills of the aquareous range, uniting under its western 
base to form the main caiion of Bill Williams Fork. 

This canon drains the whole of a long meridianal valley, excavated out of hori- 
zontal strata of rock between the two parallel ranges, the Hualapais and Aquarius. 

The whole view is one of desolation, relieved, it is true, here and there by 
vegetation — cedars on the higher mesas, grasses and chapparal plants dotted 
over the rough hill slopes — yet the solid rock foundation constantly outcrops in 
sombre red and black masses, shattered into collosal fragments and cut down 
by a labyrintli of canons. It produces a picture of savage nature, quite in 
keeping with the fiendlike Apaches who make their dens in its fastnesses. 

Beyond, to the southwest, lies stretched a low desert plain, sloping in almost 
inqK'rceptible graduation toward the two rivers Colorado and Gila. Detached 
mountain groups rise here and there, scored down by deep dry gorges. Every- 
where a great volume of sand and gravel des(!ends from their mouths, giving 
evidence of a former torrent. 

The vegetation is sparse, and only of desert-loving shn;bs, w'hose ill-favored 
leaves, together with the cactus thorns, seem typical of the whole region. 



Lynx Ckeek. — Writing from Prescott in 1866, Mr. Ehrenberg used the fol- 
lowing language : 

We may safely say there is a coutinuous range of gold-bearing rock from near Wicken- 
berg to ]U miles north of Prescott, and from the Lower Hassyumpa to the Agua Frio, which 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 475 

would embrace an area of at least 1,000 square miles. The containing rock is net^rly the 
same in this entire section. It does not follow that other sections east and southeast are not 
metalliferous, nor does it augur for the non-existence of other metals here ; on the contrary, 
lead and copper ores abound, and silver has been found to some extent ; but gold predomi- 
nates, at least as far as known at present. 

The first lode upon whicli macliinery was erected was the Accidental, upon 
Lynx creek, a gold vein yielding some showy and beautiful specimens of free 
gold — specimens which attracted great attention in San Francisco. The ore 
crushed by the small mill and prior and subsequently by arrastras averaged about 
$100 per ton. The vein is small, varying from 12 to 20 inches in width. 

Near the head of Lynx creeh, which has been worked for placers throughout 
its length, say 12 miles, is a hill crowded with quartz lodes. This is known as 
Eiu-eka Hill, and Mr. Ehrenberg, writing (in 1866) of the lodes in it says : 

I find them to be of the same decomposed character as those on the hill below the Big Bug 
mine, only showiug snlphurets in abundance, which those in Big Bug do not as yet. I can- 
not come to any conclusion as to their real character. More and judicious work is required 
to do this. There are a great many veins here of this character — more, indeed, than I like 
to see ; still, if this class of veins and ores will pay, by all I can see and what I can hear I 
can only come to the conclusion that these mountains contain an extent of productive quartz 
not equalled in any part of the United States. 

The Eureka Lode is the most prominent in the hill. It is a large vein, and 
near the surface showed free gold, which, worked in arrastras, yielded $60 per 
ton, but at the bottom of a shaft of 80 feet in depth snlphurets predominate, and 
it is the belief that the same will be found in most if not all of the Lynx creek 
lodes. 

The Dead Wood, the Titie, the Motjkt Veex^ox, the Poixtee, the 
BoSTOX, THE PiXE MouxTAix, and other lodes, the ore from which has been 
worked in arrastras, has returned from $20 to $80 per ton. Sixty tons of the 
Dead Wood ore, worked by an-astras, yielded $27 50 per ton in^gold. 

At the head of Lynx creek the Senator lode is a large silver vein, whicli has 
worked $60 to the ton in tliat metal. 

The Motixtaixeee, Brakdox, Lto:^, Box Eldee, Moxitoe, and other 
veins show gold, and have been developed to a sufficient c'^tent to indicate value. 
The quartz on the surface is decomposed, and the gold often visible. At a depth, 
as a rule, the ore abounds in snlphurets. Arrastras have been erected, and are now 
testing the ore from some of these veins. The headwaters of the Hassyampa 
are near those of Lynx creek, and the quartz lode upon the Hassyampa are gene- 
rally held in good esteem. 

The Chase Lode is a gold vein prospecting well, and believed to be valuable. 

The Benedict Silver Lode has a shaft upon it nearly a hundred feet deep. 

Good silver has been taken from the McDougal. 

STERLnTG Mine. — This mine, five miles nearly south from Prescott, and near 
to the Hassyampa, is somewhat noted. Two five-stamp mills have been erected 
upon it. The ore is of gold snlphurets, and presents the appearance of bronze. 
It was found impossible to work it profitably by any ordinary process, and the 
mills have been idle much of the time. Lately a San Francisco gentleman tried 
a process upon the ore which promises to be a success, and it is believed the mine 
will prove valuable. The vein is as yet iiTegular and uncertain ; but compara- 
tively little shafting or tunnelling has been done. 

The Montgomery, Often, and Guadaloupe Mines, further down the Has- 
syampa, have been worked to some extent, and yielded som6 free gold. They are 
difficult of access at present, but roads might be made tothenn\-ithout great expense. 

The Leihy Copper Veins, between Prescott and Skull valley, show that 
Central Arizona, no less than Southern Arizona and the Colorado river country, 
is rich in copper, but it is not likely that attention Avill be given to working this 
ore at present. There are some fifty veins in close proximity in the property 



476 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

named, and in otlicr parts of Central Arizona numerous copper lodes have been 
located. The ores are oxides and sulphurets. 

Big Bug. — East from Lj'nx creek some four miles, and from Prescott some 15 
miles, is the Big Bug creek, and a well-known mining district bearing that name. 
Every hill in this rough region is mineral bearing. The placers worked upon 
the creelv for many miles paid well, and continue to pay good wages. 

Mr. Ehrenberg spent some days, in the spring and summer of 1866, in an 
examination of this district, and thus described it in a letter written in May to the 
Alta Calilbrnian, of San Francisco : 

The veins, in part of the district at least, are hirge, distinct, and well defined ; in the other 
parts this is not the case, and I have not yet come to any conclusion as to what they are, as 
no work whatever has been done on them, and the containinn^ rock is so decomposed and 
stained with oxide of iron in certain parallel zones and masses that it is even doubtful whether 
they are veins at all ; they have some regularity, ueverlheless ; and, should this iron staiu 
be caused by the decomposition of pyrites (or sulphates) of iron, then there is hope of numer- 
ous extensive and lasting veins, as most all the croppings show gold. It is, however, possi- 
ble that this rusty stain is caused by the decomposiiion of the hornblende in the sicnite, (or 
diorite, ) which is the rock in which all these veins occur. In this case, not much is to be 
hoped from this second series of veins. I expect, however, that a few of these also will prove 
good and permanent. 

First, the Galena lode, belonging to the first series. It is a fissure, and fine-looking, large 
vein, prospecting and opening well. Eight men are at work here in two shafts, from which 
about 70 tons of ore have been taken up to date, (shafts about 15 feet deep only.) The 
Galena is situated on the mountains about two miles north of the mill. 

Second, the Big Bug, situated about one-half a mile from the mill, also on the mountains, 
and on the boundary separating the two classes of veins. Some beautiful ores of a singular 
character are taken from this" mine, which make me almost believe that much of this iron 
stain is occasioned by the decomposition of the hornblende rock, and not by iron pyrites — 
at least not always. The shaft is some fifty feet deep, but has considerable water in it, which 
prevented my examining it below at present. They are extracting ore from two small levels 
some three feet down. The lower wall is very firm, but the upper consists of a crumbling, 
heterogenous mass of the same material and segregated masses of crystallized hornblende. 
The fissure in which the ore occms varies in width from two to four feet, and the ores lie in 
the same in nests t>f various sizes, showing by their relative position, however, the probability 
that at one time they have formed a continuous sheet. 

The condition of the hanging wall, and the whole combination or character of the gangue 
or vein mass make me think very favorably of this vein. The vein mass consists, first, of 
the ores referred to, segregated masses of recrystallized hornblende, decomposed country rock, 
with large and small fragments, at times, of the latter, and quartz enveloped and blended with 
the former iu a very peculiar mixture. It is my opinion that considerable friction has been 
excited at some time on the walls, by which the upper has been shattered and broken, and 
that in course of time the whole mass has been reconsolidated, and the intervals refilled by 
lecrystallizatiou of hornblende, iron pyrites, &c. Even the ore is of this character, gold 
generally occurring in the vicinity of brown crystals of iron iu the admixture of horublendo 
and felspar, and iu a deposit of carbonate and even sulphate of copper in small quantities. 
The vein can be traced for a mile in a straight line, showing principally those flush walls of 
hornblende, with ore in some places. As the shaft was sunk in a ravine it is questionable 
whether the whole vein has been so much shattered, or whether this was confined to the ravines 
solely. 

Third, the Eugenia, not worked now, and water in the drift, which was commenced toe 
low or too near the creek. This is a vein, consisting of iron pyrites, occurring in a gangue 
of calcareous spar, (or talc,) with some quartz. Near the surface the iron is oxydized, and 
the gold can be extracted in the common Avay. The iron pyrites will require concentration 
and roasting. I can say nothing of this vein now, further than that it seemed to be of enor- 
mous size, and that it is, or can be, worked with great facility, beingonly one-half mile from 
the mill, and on nearly the same level. Only the surface ores will be available now, of which 
there are a great abundance. If these will pay but $15 per ton the mill can be kept running. 

At this writing about 1,000 tons of the Galena ore are in sight. Five hundred 
tons have been worked by the quartz mill erected for the purpose, and although 
the machinery is incomplete the yield has averaged $25 to the ton in free gold. 
There are several shafts and tunnels on the lode. The cost of shafting has been 
from $8 to §540 per foot. Ordinary wages $75 per month and board. Wood 
costs delivered $5 per ton. The Big Bug mine is of a similar character ; 60 
tons averaged $30 per ton. The ore from both these mines contains from 10 
to 20 per cent, of sulphurets. The Eugenia is at places 10 feet in wulth. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 477 

Several tons worked in an'astras gave $25 per ton ; some as high as S40. At 
such a return as this the Eugenia, from its location near the mine and its size, 
must, if continuously rich, pay well. 

The Ticois^DEEOGA, the Chapparel. and the Dividekd Mixes, in the Big 
]}ug district, have a fair reputation. Thirty tons of the Chapparel ore worked 
at the Big Bug mill gave S22 per ton in free gold. Sixty tons from the Divi- 
dend gave $20 per ton. A mill has been erected upon the Ticonderoga, a lode 
reputed to be valuable, but little work has yet been done. 

TuEKEY Ceeek, 30 miles southeast from Prescott, is more noted for its silver 
than for its gold mines. A mill has been erected to work the ore of the Bully 
Bueno lode, but owing to financial embaiTassment it has not yet been put in 
operation. Shafts and tunnels shovv^ the lode to good advantage. The ore is 
of a curious character, that upon the surface being gold in hornblende. The 
Yahoo mine in this vicinity promises well. The Goodwin is a silver lode, show- 
ing some choice ore. Specimens taken to California in JS65 Avere highly praised. 
A to7i or two worked yielded 6300. The Gross gold lode in this district has 
yielded some specimens of free gold of rare beauty. The Capital silver lode 
resembles the Goodwin, and the llichmond is of the same class. 

The BPvADSHAW District is upon the upper Aqua Frio, at what is known 
as Black Canon, a distance of from 50 to GO miles southeast from Prescott. 
Here the Mexicans for several seasons worked the placers with considerable suc- 
cess, and in 1864 numerous quartz claims were taken up. Some of the ore 
reduced in airastras gave a return of $100 to the ton. The Great Eastern, the 
White Swan, the Uno, Forks, and other lodes present good surface indications. 
A company has been formed in Philadelphia for working them. The Nopal and 
Ballenciana lodes have been worked by arrastras, and some showy specimens 
have been extracted. 

Near Given mountain, at the south side of the Bradshaw mountain, (from 
which the foregoing district is named,) some silver lodes have been located, but 
not yet worked. The Mammoth has an average width of 15 feet, and has been 
traced for two and onedialf miles. 

Pine Flat, at the west end of the Bradshaw mountain, has several gold 
lodes. The Clinton and Minnehaha have been opened to the depth of perhaps 
30 ieet, and the district is accounted promising. 

Walkut Grove, one of the best farming districts in central Arizona, is upon 
the Hassyampa, 30 miles south of Prescott, and 15 miles west of the mining 
districts just referred to. In its vicinity are some good lodes. The most noted 
are the Big Rebel, a lode of considerable size, and the Josephine, ore from 
which, worked by arrastras, has paid $200 to the ton. 

At the Placeritas, between Walnut grove and People's ranch, about the time 
of the Weaver gold excitement, some gold was extracted, and the diggings are 
still worked by Mexicans. 

Vulture Mine. — A German, named Henry Wickenburg, Avith several com- 
panions, while prospecting upon the Hassyampa late in J8G3, discovered a 
butte or small isolated mountain of quartz, at a point some 60 miles north of the 
Gila, and near the Hassyampa. After examining it closely they found traces 
of gold but attached no great value to the ore, and all but Mr. Wickenberg were 
reluctant to go to even the slight trouble of posting notices claiming the lode, 
if such it could be called. It was, however, taken up, and is now the best 
known and most profitable mining property in central Arizona, if not in the entire 
Territory. Upon the discovery claim is a chimney 500 feet long and 400 feet 
wide, which rises 100 feet above the surface of the surrounding country. So far 
as tested nearly all the rock of this chimney contains gold. I'he vein proper 
is 39 feet wide, and continues tlie same at the depth of 100 feet from the surface, 
or say 200 feet from the top of the chimney, the depth to which sliafts have been 
sunk. The vein runs northwest and southeast. The hanging Avail is of por- 



478 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

pliyiy rock ; tlic foot wall of talcose slate. The vein lias a pitcli of 45° to tlie 
nortliwest. The main lode is all of quartz, and there are various strata on each 
side, varying" from one to six feet in width. 

A 20- stamp mill has been erected upon the Hassyampa, within a mile of the 
town of Wickenburg, where the ore was first worked in arrastras by Mr. AVick- 
enburg and others. This is for working the ore from the discovery claim of the 
Vulture, which is now the property of a New York company. Mr. Cusenbary, 
the superintendent, has kindly furnished the following report of the amoiait of 
ore worked by this mill to September 1, 1867 : 

From jSTovember 1, 1866, to September 1, 1867, the mill crushed 4,834 tons, 
which produced $145,633, an average of about $30 per ton. 

The gold has thus far been found free, and occasionally some showy specimens 
are obtained. The absence of water near the lode now renders it necessary to 
work the ore at Wickenburg, a distance of 14 miles. Thus the cost of trans- 
portation alone is 610 per ton. Wood is not abundant in any part of central 
Arizona south of Prescott. At Wickenbm-g' it costs delivered about $8 per 
cord. 

The Vulture is, however, considered rich enough to pay with these draw- 
backs, and arrangements are now making for the working of other claims, and 
it is tliought that all will pay, although some have heretofore considered the 
chimney or discovery claim the only desirable part of the lode. Two thousand 
feet are claimed upon the Vulture vein, and several other lodes of a similar 
character, although much smaller in size, have been taken up in the vicinity. 



General Remaee:s o^ Central AEizoisrA. — Central Arizona is an elevated 
country. The town of Prescott, the present capital of the Territory, is at an 
altitude of some 6,000 feet above the level of the sea. At this height the win- 
ter temperature is of course severe, but at other seasons the climate is perhaps 
th.e most agreeable in Arizona. Above Weaver the countrj^ is well wooded and 
watered. The valleys are for the most part small and disconnected, but the soil 
is rich, and at most points, although there are early Ixosts, fine crops are produced. 
It is estimated that 2,000 tons of corn will be produced this season within a 
circle of 50 miles of Prescott. Vegetables of nearly every kind grow luxu- 
riantly. At a reasonable outla}^ good roads may be made through the most for- 
midable mountain ranges, and the country offers many facilities for mining. The 
want of success to this time is not to be attributed to any deficiency in the mines, 
bat to the Indian troubles and the refractory character of the ores of most of 
the lodes thus iav opened. The mills erected having been intended only for the 
working of free gold have not been suited to sulphurets and rebellious ores. 
When proper machinery is provided the lodes of central Arizona, or a number 
of them, Avill probably repay development. It is estimated that ordinary ores 
may now be worked at a cost not exceeding $7 per ton. Only American labor 
is to be had, which is more costly than most of that employed in southern Arizona 
and upon the Colorado, but at the same time more effective. 

Remarks on the Territory. — In southern Arizona and upon the Colorado, 
excepting at the highest points, work is usually suspended in the suminev months. 
In central Arizona this is not necessar\'-, as the sun is seldom oppressive. The 
thermometer has been known to stand at 110° on the Ct)lorado, when it rose 
to but 05° in and about Prescott. The nights in the mountains throughout the 
Territory are cool at all seasons. Snow falls in central Arizona, but excepting 
in the higher mountains it usually remains but a few hours. Of the four winters 
since the whites occupied the country, but one has been severe. 

Arizona is far richer in agricultural lands than is generally supposed. To 
those who have traversed the desert regions only, it would be an absurdity 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 479 

to talk of fine farms and gardens, but with those who have seen the products of 
the fertile valleys, no argument is necessary to prove their value. Indeed, it 
may be boldly asserted that no one of the mineral-bearing Territories of the 
Pacific is richer in mineral lands than Arizona, while its climate is acknowledged 
by all Vv'lio have tested it to be unsurpassed upon the western continent. The 
pastoral resources of the Territory deserve mention. Grasses of every nutritious 
variety abound, and cattle and sheep may, whenever the hostile Indians are over- 
come, be raised Avith comparatively no outlay. Southern Arizona is especially 
rich in grazing lands, and were its mines to prove worthless, Avhich is hardly 
possible, it must eventually become important as a pastoral country, and support 
a large population, furnishing cattle not for the Territory, but for California and 
New Mexico. 

Below Prescott and upon the Colorado adobe is used for building, and is per- 
haps better suited to the climate than any other material. At Prescott and in 
the suiTonnding mining districts timber is used, and lately brick of an excellent 
character have been made in Prescott. 

The pine of central Arizona grows to a medium size, and much of it is resinous. 
The oak and black walnut do not obtain a great size. Pine lumber cut by a 
steam mill in Prescott is furnished at §30, 860, and $100 per 1,000, according 
to the quality. The mesquite and cotton wood of southern Arizona and the Colorado 
furnish good rafters for the adobe structures, and the mesquite is famed as a 
superb firewood. About Tucson and Tubac, and many of the mining districts, 
it is abundant. 

The Territory offers two natural and inviting routes for continental railroads. 
That by the 32d parallel, over which the Butterfield or southern overland stage 
service was so satisfactorily performed prior to the rebellion, is too well known 
to require comment. That by the 35th parallel, explored by Beal and "Whipple, 
is scarcely less practicable, and is for much of the distance well supplied with 
timber and coal, and through a promising agricultural and mining region. Both 
these routes possess advantages over those farther north, and it is the judgment 
of those who have passed over them with care and observation that they nuist 
both soon be traversed by the iron horse. 

Upon the adoption of the code of the Territory, (1864,) a chapter was incorpo- 
rated providing for "the registry and government of mines and mineral deposits," 
and it at first met general favor, both in and out of the I'erritory, but practice 
proved it to be cumbersome and annoying, and in 1866 it was repealed, and a 
simple act passed, leaving the regulation of the size of the claims, the amount 
of work to be performed, and all details connected with the taking up and hold- 
ing of claims, to the district organizations. But few, however, of the districts 
enforce rules, and it is not likely that much attention will be given the matter 
until the congressional mining law is enforced here. The land officers who are 
to see to its execution have, it is reported, been appointed, and will soon open 
their offices. The congressional act, so far as understood, is much liked, and 
considered liberal even by the large class who have always opposed any legis- 
lation by Congress regarding the mineral lands. 

A simple segregation act, of whioh the following is a copy, was adopted by the 
last legislature : 

AN ACT to provide for the segregation of raining claims. 

Be it enacted by the legislative assembly of the Territory of Arizona, That whenever any one 
ormore joint owners or tenants in common of gold, silver, copper, or mineral-bearing ledges 
or claims may desire to work or de%'elop such ledge or claim, and any other owner or owners 
thereof shall fail or refuse to join in said work, after due notice of at least 30 days, given by 
publication in one newspaper, printed in the county in which said ledges or claims are 
located, and if none be printed in said county, then in any newspaper printed in the Territory, 
said notice to have publication in four successive weeks of said paper, said other owner or 
owners may, upon application to the district cpurt of the district wherein the ledge or claim 



480 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

is situated, cause the interests Cf said parties so refusing to be set off or segregated as here- 
inafter set forth. 

Sec. 2. The owner or owners of any mineral-bearing ledge or claim, after the expiration 
of said 30 days' notice having been given, may, if the party or parties notified fail or refuse 
to join in the working or developing said ledge or claim, apply to the district court of the 
district wherein the ledge or claim may be situated, for a partition or segregation of the inte 
rest or interests of the party or parties so failing or refusing to join. 

Sec. 3. The party or parties so applying shall set forth the fact that the said parties have 
been duly notified in accordance with section one of this act, and that said party or parties have 
failed or refused to join in said work, all of which shall be sustamed by the oath or affirmation 
of one or more of the parties applying ; and upon such application being made the clerk of 
said court shall post a notice at the office of the county recorder, and in two other conspicuous 
places within the district, stating the application, and notifying the parties interested, that 
unless they appear within GO days, and show good cause why the prayer of the petitioner 
should not be granted, that the same will be granted if good cause can be shown. 

Sec. 4. At the expiration of said 60 days, if the party or parties notified do not appear and 
show good cause why the prayer of the petitioner should not be granted, the court shall 
appoint two commissioners to go upon the ground and segregate the claims of the parties so 
refusing to join ; and in case they do not agree, they to choose a third party ; and said com- 
missioners shall make a report in writing to said court, who shall issue a decree in con- 
formity with said report, which shall be final, except appeal be taken to the Supreme Court 
within 30 days after issuance thereof. 

Sec. 5. The provisions of this act shall not apply to the county of Yavapai. 

Sec. 6. All acts and parts of acts in conflict with the provisions of this act are hereby 
repealed. 

Sec. 7. This act to take effect and be in force from and after its passage. 

The present report indicates tlie discovery and location of lodes iu all jiarts 
of the Territory rather than their development. The reader may wonder why 
lodes ofi'ering such rich surface indications, and so generally promising, have not 
been extensively worked. In explanation, tlie comparative inaccessibility of the 
Territory, being oft" the grand overland lines of travel, and without seaports, 
must be first ottered. Next the fiendish Apache, the most difficult Indian upon 
the continent to overcome, and next the limited extent of the placer diggings, 
or the lack of water for their working. It ■\\ill be remembered that it was the 
j;:lacers that brought the large pojiulation to California, Idaho, and Montana. 
Had those countries been without such inducements, their growth would i)robably 
have been as slow as that of Arizona, 

After some years residence here the writer is more than ever confirmed in 
the belief that while there is much to contend with in Arizona, there is much to 
contend for, and that despite all the drawbacks and discomvagements the Terri- 
tory will yet command a large and prosperous population, and abundantly repay 
the government for the outlay required to reserve it from the savage. 

Besides the minerals already referred to, there are indications of the existence 
of man\' others in different parts of the Temtory. Iron in carbonates and oxides 
is abundant. Traces of nickel have been found near the Big Bug creek. Plati- 
num (metallic) is shown in the placers of the Black canon or Bradshaw district, 
on the Agua Frio. Traces of tin exist at several points. The geologist of Lieu- 
tenant Parks's United States exploring expedition reports the discovery of large 
beds of gypsum upon the San Pedro. A lode of cinnabar was located several 
years since 10 miles southeast of La Paz, and named the Eugenia; copper, silver, 
and quicksilver are found together in a rare combination, but the lode is not large. 
Rich cinnabar float has been found upon the Mohave and Prescott road, about 50 
miles from the Colorado. Lime of a superior quality exists in large quantities 
near Prescott and Tucson, and is found at other points. It is now extensively 
used in building. Lime coral exists in the Adelphi mine, Mineral hill, Williams 
Fork. It is found in immediate connection with the richest carbonates and oxides 
of copper. The Salt mountains near Callville, and a few miles east of the Col- 
orado, are among the most remarkable formations in Arizona. The deposits of 
pure, transparent, and beautifully crystallized salt are very extensive, and no salt 
is superior for table or general use, In the vicinity traces of coal have been dis- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 481 

covered, and parties engaged in exploration are quite confident that large quan- 
tities will be found. There is a report of the cUscovery of coal upon the San 
Pedro. 

The folly of intrusting mining operations to inexperienced and impru- 
dent men has been well illustrated, in Arizona. In the southern country and 
upon the Colorado hundreds of thousands of dollars have been thrown away in 
foolish and extravagant expenditures. In one instance, after the outlay of 
$1,000,000, the company abandoned work without enough having been done to 
ascertain whether there was or was not a true vein. In many cases the whole 
capital of the owners has been frittered away in unnecessary buildings, improper 
machinery, and large remuneration to unworthy agents, men who, next to the 
Apache, have by their recklessness obstructed the progress of the country, and 
prejudiced capitalists against further investment in it. 

Thus far it may be truthfully asserted that there have been more failures in 
superintendents than in mines in Arizona; indeed it is a common remark that 
no lode properly opened and economically and systematically worked has failed 
to pay. This is true in the main. 

In southeni Arizona, and upon the Colorado river bottoms, inigation is neces- 
sary. In central Arizona the seasons are defined, and at many points good crops 
have been raised without irrigation, the rains furnishing sufficient moisture. These 
occm- mainly in the months of July and August, but there are frequent showers 
in April and May, as well as in the winter months. 

The friendly Indians, Pimas, IMaricopas, and Papagoes, below the Gila, raise 
large quantities of excellent wheat, and the whites engaged in farming upon the 
Gila, the Santa Cruz, the San Pedro, and the Sonoita, raise corn, barley, and 
wheat. Some six flouring mills are now in operation in the Tenitory. 
31 



482 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



UTAH TERRITORY. 

SECTION I. 
GENERAL FEATURES. 

The boundaries of this Territory have been changed a number of times until 
its form approaches a rectangle. Its length from north to south is about 345 
miles, and its breadth about 320 miles, with an area of about 110,000 square miles. 
Its population is variously estimated at from 80,000 to 100,000, and is rapidly 
increasing. 

The Wasatch range of mountains divides the Territory diagonally northeast 
and southwest into two parts, the northwestern being much larger than that lying 
to the southward. The Wasatch range is high and rugged. Its lofty summits, 
covered with perpetual snow, probably have an altitude of 11,000 or 12,000 feet 
above the level of the sea. In a broad and elevated range surrounded by 
countries rich in gold and silver we should expect to find those metals. But so 
far as is known no range of mountains on the western coast has been found rich 
in precious metals that has a trend to the northeast and southwest, and it may 
be considered problematical whether any mines of those metals will be found of 
great richness in the Wasatch mountains. On the western side of the Territory 
arc a number of small ranges, on tlie Goshoat and a num])er of others, that con- 
tain mines of gold and silver. 

The largest river is the Colorado, one of the longest in the United States. 
Of its capabilities for navigation comparatively little is known, though so far as 
explored the reports are unfavorable. Its principal branches are the Green, 
Grand, San Juan, and Virgin rivers. These drain the southeastern portion of 
the Territory. On the north. Goose and Holmes's creeks run into Snake river, 
but all the interior streams empty into lakes that have no outlet to the sea. 
Bear river and the Jordan empty into Salt lake, besides many large creeks and 
numerous smaller ones. 

Salt lake is about 120 miles long, north and south, and 40 miles v\'ide, and 
contains several islands of considerable size, some of which are partially covered 
with timber. A steamer is now being built for the purpose of shipping the tim- 
ber from these islands, for the use of Salt Lake City. 

The lake is subject to sudden storms, and boat navigation is sometimes danger- 
ous. Until the present time, no serious effort has been made to test its capabili- 
ties for navigation, but there is no doubt that the trade on this lake will, at some 
future period, be of considerable magnitude. The water is extremel}'- salt. An 
analysis sliows that it contains over 22 per cent, of solid matter, an indication 
that it has had no outlet to the sea for a great length of time, and that compared 
with other regions the fall of rain in this part of the country is less, and the 
evaporation greater, than elsewhere. The ocean represents the average saline 
impregnation of the world produced l)y rainfall and evaporation. By comparison 
Avith this standard solution we can judge which is in greatest excess, rainfall or 
evaporation. On the hills which surround Salt lake are marks of an ancient 
beach about 300 feet above its present level. From the depth to which these 
shore-marks have worn into the rocky sides of the hills, and the large amounts 
of debris brought down by streams and deposited at that elevation, it is evident that 
this level of the lake must have remained for a long period. It is probable 
the lake once had an outlet to the ocean ; and from the fresh-water tertiary fos- 
sils found at Bear river, and at other points, it is almost certain that it then con- 
tained fresh water. Then, also, it doubtless contained many varieties of fish, but 
as the water grew salt, they gradually perished ; and, so far as has been observed, 
it has no animal life in it at present. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 483 

The canse of the extreme ariditj^ of this conntiy lies in the fact that it is sur- 
roiindccl by high mountains. The Sierra Nevada on the west, the Wasatcli range 
on the south and east, and the Rocky mountains on the north, completely encircle 
it. The wind coming from any quarter has its moisture absorbed in passing over 
the mountains.* The absence of vegetation, the effect of this extreme aridity, 
also aggravates the droughts. The cultivation of these valleys by covering 
them with crops and trees, may cause some change in the amount of rain-fall, and 
it is not unlikely that in the course of years the water in Salt lake will be per- 
manently higher than it is now. As the small rain-fall at present is due to the 
environment of mountains, the inference is that in former times they did not exist, 
and that this lake is older than the mountains ; this conclusion appears to be war- 
ranted by our present knowledge of the facts. 

The course of the wind in past ages was mainly from the west, as it is now. 
This is shown by the deeper shore-marks found on the eastern side of the lake — 
a fact general in Utah and Nevada and the southeastern portion of California. 

Utah lake, the source of the Jordan, is almost the shape of a right-angled 
triangle, about 30 miles long and 20 wide. The water is fresh. 

There are several other lakes, as Little Salt lake, Sevier lake, and Goshoat. 

The first settlement in this Territory was in 1846, at Salt Lake City, b}^ a band 
of Mormons. Owing to the fertility of the soil and other natural advantages, 
the growth of this community has been very rapid for a pojiulation devoted to 
agriculture. The discovery of gold in California and the large emigration which 
it induced, passing through this place, greatly stimulated trade and made a mar- 
ket for the surplus produce of the inhabitants. The advent of the United States 
troops under Colonel Johnson, and the discovery of silver in Nevada, and of gold 
in Idaho and Montana, produced similar results. 

These markets are now nearly or quite closed, and trade in the Territory is more 
depressed than since 1850. This may cause the people to tm'n their attention 
to mining, a piu'suit hitherto neglected owing to the greater profits derived from 
agriculture. The favorable notice taken of the recent discoveries of mines on 
the east side of Green river is evidence in point. The most potent cause of the 
increase of the population is the encouragement extended to emigration from 
foreign countries. Nearly nine-tenths of the adult population are of foreign 
birth. Salt Lake City has a population of about 19,000 inhabitants. It is a 
beautifully laid-out town. The streets are wide, with streams of clear water 
running on each side. The can'iage-ways are separated from the sidewalks by 
rows of trees, which present a refreshing appearance in summer to the way-worn 
traveller who has crossed the deserts. The private houses, built chiefly of wood, 
are perishable, but the public edifices are constructed of stone and wood, and are 
durable and highly creditable to the skill and enterprise of the inhabitants. The 
tabernacle, the principal place of v,orship, is capable of seating 10,000 people. 
The width of the streets, the umbrageous rows of trees, the great number of 

* Lorin Bloclget, in his Report on the Climatolog'y of the United States, says: "The 
Basin reojion as a whole can hardly bo said to be one of periodical rains north of the 35th 
parallel, however deficient the quantity is, and however abortive — as it may be said — the 
raius are, as regards vegetation and practical climatology. The rain of summer, from the 
middle of June forward, is practically valueless in cultivation for the vicinity of Great Salt 
Lake, and the flourishing settlements there are sustained by irrigation. Cultivation would 
clearly require this aid everywhere, and as the winters are not available in bringing crops 
ibrward as in California, irrigation may not be dispensed with as it may be there. It is unim- 
portant to many of the best crops of California, wheat among them, that there is no rain 
whatever in summer,a since they are so far advanced in the mild winter that the summer is 
only requisite to ripen them. But in no part of the Basin is this adaptation practicable, so 
far as known. The extent of summer required is similar to that of like latitudes in the 
Atlantic States, and the deficiency of rain therefore is destructive, if irrigation is impracti- 
cable." 

a Except on the seacoast north of Slendbcino City ; from which point occasional summer rains prevail, 
increasing in frequency towards the north.— J. R. B. 



484 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

orcliards and gardens in the heart of the city, and the incombustible nature of 
the houses, give a country appearance to the city, and render fires ahnost unknoAvn. 
The small size of the farms is favorable to high cultivation. As a consequence, 
the greater part of Salt Lake valley is under i)etter cultivation than any region 
west of the Rocky mountains, except, perhaps, around the bay of San Francisco. 

The system of irrigation is excellent and extensive. Farmers in the eastern 
States might learn much here that -would be valuable to them. From a report of the 
Deseret Agricultural Society of Januar}^ 11, 186C, it appears that 'Hhere have 
been constructed 277 main canals, in length amounting to 1,043 miles, 102 rods, 
at a mean width of 5 feet 6 inches, and a mean depth of 2 feet 2 inches, which 
water 153,949 acres of land, at a cost of $1,766,939, and that there is in course 
of construction canals at an estimated cost of $900,000." 

Ogden is a flourishing town oir the east side of the lake, and ranks next to 
Salt Lake City in population and importance. 



SECTION II. 



MINES AND MINING. 



In the spur of the Wasatch, on the east side of Salt lake, gold has been found 
in very minute quantities. Some of the quartz assayed about $2 per ton. The 
mountains at this point trend west of north and east of south. The country rock 
is granite, and quartz is abundant. 

The thermal springs in this vicinity show the presence of sulphate of iron, 
and possibly mines of value may be found in this spur of the mountain. 

MiNEESViLLE. — The wcstcru part of the territory, adjoining Nevada, so far as 
known, is the richest in metals. At Minersville are mines of lead and copper, which 
contain some gold and silver. One of the mines has been worked to a depth of 90 
feet. At this point the copper predominated, and the working of the mine for lead 
was suspended. The lead was smelted to supply the territory. While lead pre- 
vailed working of the mine Avas remunerative. No effort Avas made to recover 
the silver, although in many countries this Avould have been profitable. By open- 
ing the mine at other points, no doubt lead ore of the same quality as that Avorked 
could be obtained. The percentage of silver contained in the lead and copper 
ores of this district is sulficient to justify the conclusion that the Avorking of these 
mines Avill be a source of profit at some future day. 

Rush Valley. — This district abounds in veins containing argentiferous 
galena and copper. In 1865 there Avas considerable excitement about these 
mines. Companies were organized by officers of the army at Salt Lake City, 
and some developments were made. Smelting Avorks Avere erected at the mines, 
but the smelting failed to extract the metal in a satisfactory manner, and the 
expenses incident to enterprises of this kind, in a ncAV country, rendered opera- 
tions very costly. Silver occurs in galena in the same irregular manner as in 
quartz. Many suppose that if a A^ein of galena assays Avell in one part it will 
do the same iu all; an erroneous rdea, as miners frequently find to their cost. 
When transportation is cheaper, fuel more abundant, and labor cheaper, these 
mines Avill doubtless be valuable. At present no profit is likely to be deriA^ed 
from AVorking them. 

Coal. — The eastern part of the territory contains large seams of coal. As it 
has been found as far south as Pahranagat and at San Pete, it is not improbable 
it abounds in many parts of the Green RiA'cr valley. That said to be from San 
Pete is a firm bituminous coal, considered by many superior to any found AA'est 
of the Rocky mountains, but its quality must be thoroughly jn-oved in large 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 485 

amounts before it can be pronounced equal to tlie bituminous coal of Pennsyl- 
vania. 

The coal from Pahranagat is found about 300 miles soutliwest from Salt Lake 
City ; that from San Pete 120 miles south. About 80 miles east from the city 
coal is found very abundantly. These discoveries tend to justify the conclusion 
that coal exists in large quantities in the Territory. As soon as a market is opened, 
the demand can be supplied from these coal fields. Owing to the scarcity of fuel 
in the mining regions of the eastern part of Nevada and the western part of 
Utah, where most of the silver, copper, and lead ores must be smelted, coal will 
in time be in great demand. 

Anthracite. — The most interesting discovery in this connection is anthracite 
coal. Scientific men have long been seeking in vain to find anthracite west of the 
Rocky mountains. It has recently been found on Green river. An old iron-worker 
from the anthracite regions of Pennsylvania says the deposit is identically the 
same. The coal is heavy, and will not burn with a flame. When used in a 
blacksmith's forge it gives an intense heat. This article has been tried and 
found to answer all the jDurposes required of it. 

Pacific Railroad. — The advantages to be derived from the construction 
of the Pacific railroad will be beyond computation. Branch railroads will fol- 
low, and these coal fields will eventually be opened up. The number of coal 
seams visible along the canons in eastern Utah is remarkable. Many of them 
arc of large size; some are said to be 15 feet thick. Occasionally they can be 
traced four or five miles. They are so numerous and easily found that the inhab- 
itants do not locate them. It would be difficult to imagine such an abundance 
of valuable coal deposits in Nevada or California as to preclude location. Utah 
appears to be nearly in its normal condition. The recent elevations and depres- 
sions are slight ; consequently in mining for coal it is probable few faults will 
be found. The great number of veins near the surface will furnish that article 
for years to come without deep mining or the use of expensive machinery for hoist- 
ing or pumping. If the coal fields on Green river should prove as extensive and 
of as good quality as there is reason to expect, it will be a great advantage to 
the miners on the Colorado and at Pahranagat, as Avell as useful in the naviga- 
tion of the Colorado river. A thorough exploration of the coal fields of Utah, 
Dakota, Colorado, and Montana is much needed. It would probably establish 
the fact that western coal fields, though inferior in quality, rival in extent the 
vast deposits east of the Mississippi river. 

Inoisr. — Iron ore is abundant in Utah. Attempts have been made to smelt it, 
but so far without success. There is nothing refractory in this ore to render 
smelting difiicult with skill and the proper appliances. The demand for iron 
will always be large in Utah, and the cost of freight from any other point of 
production renders it an important resource for development. With a large 
agricultural population, labor will be cheap. In every point of view Utah 
appears to have better facilities for the production of iron than any of the adjoin- 
ing States or Territories. The profit on agricultural pursuits Avill become less 
every year, for many years to come. All the adjacent mining States and Terri- 
tories Avill soon raise their own stock and grain. With the .exception of New 
Mexico and Arizona they are now doing it to a great extent, so that there will 
be only a home market for the produce of Utah. This wall have a tendency to 
turn the attention of the inhabitants to mining and manufactures. In the latter 
branch of industry they are already actively engaged. 

Salt. — Salt can be produced in unlimited quantities, both for home consmnp- 
tion and export. When the railroad is completed it will probably pay to trans- 
port this article to the markets of the Atlantic. In the State of Nevada salt is 
so cheap and aljundant that it will not pay to send it west from Utah. 

Soda exists in vast beds in many parts of the Territory. When labor and 
freight are cheaper this will probably be an article of export. 



486 KESOURCES OF STATES AND TEREITOEIES 

Cottonwood Canon is about 27 miles southeast from Salt Lake City, in tlie 
Wasatch mountains. It contains several silver mines. A Mr. Hirst is runxiing 
two furnaces there at present. They are not on an extensive scale, but the results 
are satisfactory. Hirst thinks his ore will yield $200 to the ton. He has a 
German to manage his works, who is reputed to be skilful. The veins occur 
in limestone, and ore exists at the surface in abundance. This is a valuable 
lead-mining district. The ore is remarkably free from antimony. 

General Conclusions. — The Territory of Utah will undoubtedly become 
in time an important and prosperous State. It possesses a great variety of 
resources. Whatever may be the opinions entertained as to the peculiar institu- 
tions existing there at present, none can deny that its population is industrious 
and enterprising. A people who have redeemed the deserts by a vast system 
of irrigation, built up cities, inaugurated an excellent school system, established 
manufactures of nearly all the articles necessary for the use of man, opened up 
roads in every direction, and supplied the miners of the adjacent Territories for 
several years with their products, cannot fail to achieve a condition of high 
prosperity in the future. Contact with their neighbors, who entertain views 
antagonistic to their social institutions, will remedy the evils under which they 
nowlabor. As they become more intelligent the impolicy of isolating them- 
selves from the moral sympathies of the world will become apparent, and their 
patience, industry, and self-reliance will be tm-ned to good account, 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



487 



MONTANA. 

SECTION I . 

AEEA. AND POPULATION— MOUNTAINS AND VALLEYS— GEOLOGICAL FEA- 
TURES—VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS AND AGRICULTURAL LANDS— TIM- 
BER CLIMATE. AND NAVIGABLE WATERS. 

Montana, tlie most recently organized of tlie Territories of the United States, 
is second only to California in tlie production of gold. Embracing within its 
limits the range of the Rocky Mountains and the heads of tvv'o of the greatest 
rivers that wind their long and devious courses through the lower countries to the 
Paciiic and Atlantic oceans, this Territory may jnstly claim the appelUition of 
the '■'■ Golden Summit." Extending from the 45th to the 49th parallel of north 
latitude, and from the 27th to the 39th meridian west from Washington, it con- 
tains an area, according to the report of the Commissioner of the General Land 
Oflice, of 143,776 square miles, (92,016,040 acres,) bounded by meridians and 
parallels of latitude, except a portion of the southwestern corner, where for the 
distance of nearly 400 miles the boundary follows the crest of the Bitter Eoot 
mountains. The population is about 32,000.* 

Mountains. — In this Ten-itory the most striking geographical feature is tlu) 
great range of the Rocky mountains, extending 350 miles from its southern to 
its northern boundary, and in width over 200 miles. This range, with its spurs, 
occupies fully half the Territor^^ The main chain of mountains is split up into 
a number of different ranges, as the Bitter Root, which is the highest and the 

* Langley, iu his Pacific Coast Directory, a publication generally accurate, estimates the 
population as follows : 

Tahlc cxhihiting the principal cities and toictis of Montana Territory, the county in ichich each 
is located, the estimated population in September, 1866, and the distance from Virginia City, 
the territorial capital. 



County. 



No. of miles from Estimated f«>p- 
Virginia City. ulation. 



Bannack City... 

Benton City 

Bluckfoot City. . 
Deer Lodge City. 
Reynolds City... 

Silver Bow 

Helena 

Bozeman 

Dennisou 

Gallatin City 

Prickly Pear 

Nevada City 

Stirling City 

Summit City 

Virginia City 

Diamond City ... 
Missoula Mills... 



Total. 



Beaver Head . 

Cboteau 

Deer Lodge . , 

....do 

... do 

...do 

Edgarton 

Gallatin 

...do 

...do 

Jefferson 

Madison 

, ... do 

... do 

... do 

Sleagher 

Missoula 



701 W. 

40O N.W. 

200 N.W. 

80 N.W. 

180 N.W. 

100 W. 

125 N. 

GO E. 

155 N. E. 

100 N. E. 

90 N. 

2 N.W. 

30 E. 

8 S. 



165 N. E. 
150 W. 



80C 
1, 5CC 
2.000 
1,500 
2, 000 
1,250 
8,000 

2110 
1.500 

500 

250 
2.000 

500 
1,000 
4,000 
2, 000 

500 



29, 500 



The surveyor general of the Territory, in his report of 1867, makes the following estimate: 
" I may be safe in estimating the entire population at 40,00U, and it is confidently believed 
that it will reach 60,000 in J8G8 should there be no Indian troubles along the overland 
routes. * * * The class cf citizens who are coming into the Territory are generally 
those who intend making it their homes. Hence many families are coming and settling up 
the different valleys. The farming population is fast increasing, and a great number of 
miners find it profitable to devote their time to agriculture." 

The reports of the county assessors for ]S65 and 1866 do not warrant the belief that the 
increase has been so rapid. My opinion is the population at this time does not exceed 
32,000.— J. R. B. 



488 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

most westerly, and tlie Eocky, Wind River, Big Horn, and Belt ranges. All 
of these have a trend northwest and southeast, and all contain mines of gold 
and silver. Their height has not been determined, hut it is probably from 
10,000 to 14,000 feet, the highest jicak being covered with perpetual snow. 
This great extent of mountain ranges causes the condensation of a large amount 
of moisture from the atmosphere, which falls principally in the form of snow. 
Gradually melting during the warm season, it thoroughh^ saturates the earth, 
inducing a fine growth of grass aii^l timber throughout the mountain regions.* 

The Territory is divided by these ranges into a number of basins, and their 
spurs subdivide each basin into a numl)er of valleys, which contain nearly all 
the towns and settlementj, and the greater part of its agricultural as Avell as 
nearly all its mineral resources. The mountains are greatly abraded l)y the 
agencies of rains, frosts, and glacial action, leaving them smooth and much less 
rocky and precipitous than the Cascade range in Oregon, or the Sierra Nevada 
in California. The Bitter Boot is the most rugged and continuous in its height. 
The other ranges are full of low passes, with none of those lofty peaks that are 
found farther south in Colorado. 

All the mountains a})pear to bo old and weather-worn, and almost at the very 
summits of the highest ranges beds of gravel containing placer gold have been 
formed from the disintegration of the neighboring peaks. Thus placer mines 
are found on the mountain top, differing in tliis respect from the Sierra Nevadas, 
Avhere placer gold is almost invariably found in the foot-hills. In the northern 
part of the Territory the mountain regions have been prospected only sufficiently 
to prove the existence of gold. The hostility of the Indians has prevented a 
thorough exploration, or any permanent working of the mineral deposits.t 

* The following from Lewis and Clarke's Narrative describes the country westw-ard from 
the main ridge of the Bitter Root mountains. It is applicable to a large area of Montana: 

"The country along the Rochy mountains for several hundred miles in length, and about 
50 wide, is a high level plain, in all its parts extremely fertile, and in many places covered 
with a growth of tall, long-leaved pine. This plain is chiefly interrupted near the streams 
of ■water, where the hills are steep and lofty, but the soil is good, being unincumbered by 
much stone, and possesses more timber than the level country. Under shelter of these hills 
the bottom lands skirt the margin of the rivers, and though narrow and confined, are still 
fertile and rarely inundated. Nearly the whole of this wide-spread tract i^ covered with a 
profusion of grass and plants which are at this time as high as the knees. Among these are 
a variety of esculent roots, acquired without much difnculty, and yielding not only a nutri- 
tious but a very agreeable food. The air is pure and dry, the climate quite as mild if not 
milder than the same parallel of latitude in the Atlantic States, and must be equally healthy, 
for all the disorders which we have witnessed may fairly be imputed more to the nature of 
the diet than to any intemperance of climate." 

i Professor G. C. Swallow, formerly State geologist of Missouri, says, iu a late letter to 
Governor Smith : 

" Veins of gold, silver, copper, and lead have been found in great numbers in nearly all the 
explored mountainous portions of the Territory ; and placer gold is as Avidely distributed. 
Many of the gulches have proved vastly rich, and some of them very extensive. So far as 
discovered, these veins come to the surface on the foot-hills, and on the sides of the valleys and 
canons, and some of them cut the mountains to their very tops. A large portion of the lodes 
are true veins, cutting through granite, syenite porphyry, trap, gneiss, mica slate, hornblende 
slate, talcose slate, argillaceous slate, sandstone, and limestone. These lodes vary in thick- 
ness from a mere line to bO and (iO feet. The gangue or vein rock, called quartz by the miner, 
is very variable in character. In the gold-bearing lodes it is usually whitish quartz, more or 
less ferruginous, often nearly all iron. In some veins it resembles a stratified quartzite ; in 
ii few it is syenitic, pyrites, hornblende, calc spar, arsenic, antimony, copper. Tellurium 
and micaceous iron are found in these veins. In the silver lodes the iron, so abundant iu 
liie gold veins, is often replaced by the oxide of manganese. This mineral is sometimes so 
abundant as to constitute a large portion of the gangue. 

" The gangue, in many of the copper veins, is made up of quartz, heavy spar, calc spar, 
brown sjiar, and oxides of iron. Many thousand lodes of gold, silver, and copper have been 
already discovered and recorded, and many of them more or less developed. It is true here, 
as well as in all other mining districts, that a large part of the lodes discovered cannot bo 
profitably worked by the methods usually adopted in new mining regions ; but many of those 
which cannot now be worked with profitable results will become valuable when experience 
has proved the best methods, and when labor and materials can be had at ordinary prices." 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 489 

The ideology of Montana is almost entirely unknown. The Rocky mountains 
are chieily composed of granite, gneiss, and synite, and may be pretty certainly 
assigned to the Arzoic. Captain John Mullan gives the following general 
description of the mountain ranges and their geological formation : 

Looking back upon our route, we saw we had followed Bitter Root river to its head, 
•which we found from its mouth to he 95 miles long, flowing through a wide and beautiful 
valley, whose soil is fertile and productive, well timbered with the pine and cottonwood, but 
whose chief characteristic and capability is that of grazing large herds of cattle, and afford- 
ing excellent mill sites along the numerous streams flowing from the mountains. The country 
thence is watered by tributaries to the Missouri and its fork, to the range of mountains sepa- 
rating these waters from those of the Snake river, or the south branch of Lewis' fork of the 
Columbia, and is also fertile, but its characteristic feature is the great scarcity of timber for 
any purpose, the willow and wild sage being used for fuel along the whole route. The geo- 
logical formation of this section belongs to the tertiary period. The capability of this broad 
area, however, for grazing is excellent. * » * Tl^e -whole country is formed of 
a series of beds of mountainous ranges or ridges, with their intervening valleys, allot which 
are well defined and marked, the decomposition and washings of the rocks of the mountains 
giving character to the soil of the valleys, which may be termed, as a general thing, fertile. 
The geological formations along the Jefferson fork and its principal tributaries are limestone 
and conglomerate rock. From the range called the Snake river divide, the whole character 
of the country is completely changed. Here the geological formation is basaltic and volcanic 
principally. None of the numerous streams and rivulets flowing from the mountains along 
the route we travelled emptied into the Snake river, but either sunk into the ground or formed 
small lakes in the broad valley of Snake river. The ground in most places is formed prin- 
cipally of sand, and where large beds of basalt are not found, the ground is of a dry, absorb- 
ing nature, through which the water sinks, at times bursting out again. It was somewhat sin- 
gular that, for 60 miles above Fort Hall, along the main stream of Snake river, we did not 
cross but one tributary, and that coming in from the south, while none came in from the north ; 
all of the streams, as before mentioned, either forming lakes or sinking into the ground. 
This section is also noted for the great scarcity of timber, and the immense plains of wild 
sage, which is so abundant that it merits the name of the sage desert of the mountain. It 
extends for many miles in length and breadth, forming an immense ocean of prairie, whose 
sameness is only broken by the "Three Buttes" of the valley, which rise like islands in the 
sea in this broad and barren area. (Report on the construction of a military road from Fort 
Walla-Walla to Fort Benton.) 

Vegetable Products. — In the fertile soil of the valleys wheat, barley, and 
oats grow well, and good crops are produced. Rye and buckwheat would also 
flourish, but Indian corn would probably fail.* Potatoes grow in the greatest 

There are, however, a very large number of large and rich lodes which will yield large profits 
even at the present prices of labor and materials. Some of the lodes of both gold and silver 
will rank among the largest and richest in the annals of mining. In regard to the want of 
success in some of the mining operations in the Territory, it may be said that such partial 
failures are incident to all mining regions, particularly in the early operations of new regions. 
Montana is particularly exposed to delays of success from its remoteness from machine shops, 
where the machinery used may be altered and repaired to suit the exigencies constantly arising. 
But all these hindrances to immediate and full success in quartz mining operations will soon 
be removed. They are obvious to all acquainted with the business, and are such as will natu- 
rally pass away. Better mills are being put up, better lodes are bought in larger quantities, 
better management is secured, and the owners of quartz property are offering better facilities 
to those who wish to work their mines; capital is seeking this source of wealth, and good 
financiers are operating in Montana mining property. The placer mines are not yielding so much 
as at some former periods. Many new localities have been discovered, and large sums have 
been expended in conducting water to favored localities, and there is every reason to believe 
that the placers will, the coming year, yield many more millions to the hardy toilers who 
have labored so faithfully and successfully in securing this " golden harvest " The quartz 
mining operations are now in a better condition to secure success than ever before, and the 
men who have discovered and partially developed the silver, gold, and copper lodes, have been 
long inured to disappointments and hardships, and will not yield to any ordinary obstacles ; 
and we may safely believe that 10,000 of such earnest, skilful, hardy men will achieve mag- 
nificent results in such a field as the mines of Montana present. 

^Professor Swallow says: ''The results already obtained from herding and the culti- 
vation of our own rich valleys are such as to remove every reasonable doubt of the entire 
success of agricultural pursuits in the Territory. It certainly is one of the finest stock coun- 
tries on the continent. All the more important dome3tic animals and fowls do remark- 
ably well. Horses and mules and neat cattle are more hardy and kept in better condition 
on the native glasses, hay and grain. As a general rule they winter well in the valleys and 



490 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

perfection, and their flavor if not superior is equal to that of any in America. 
The residents of JMontana believe that their potatoes are superior in drj-ness and 
mealiness to any in the ^vorld, Ireland and California not excepted. Beets, peas, 
onions, cal)bag-es, encumbers, radishes, parsnips and turnips grow finely, while in 
the warmest valleys melons and tomatoes come to maturity. Bitter-root, a small 
plant flowering- in June — the root three inches long, one-fourth inch in diame- 
ter, and very often forked — grows in many of the liocky mountain valleys, and 
is very abundant in Bitter Hoot valle}'. It is a favorite article of food for the 
Flathead Indians, who dig it in May, and dry it so that it will keep for years. 
Very nutritious, but extremely bitter. 

Camus, as an article of food for the Indians, is probably the most important 
of the wild plants. It is abundant in all the northern parts of the Pacific coast. 
It is a bulbous root, about an inch and a half in diameter, and grows in low, 
swampy lands, having a sweet gummy taste, and is very nutritious. Besides 
using- it largely when fresh, the Indians boil it and afterwards dry it, so as to 
preserve it for years. If cultivated it might become a valuable culinary vegeta- 
ble. 

Qullah is another singular article of food used by the Indians. It is the root 
of a plant about the size of a man's finger, of a deep yellow color, growing in 
the moist land along- the banks of the streams. When raw it is poisonous, but 
when cooked in a kiln, a process occupying several days, it turns to a black color 
and resembles toltacco in taste and smell, and is equally offensive to people not 
accustomed to it.* 

on the surrounding foot-hills withouit hay or grain. The valleys furnish a large area of natu- 
ral meadows, whose products are equal in quantity and quality to those of the cultivated 
meadows of the middle States. Beef, fattened on the native pastures, is certainly not infe- 
rior to the best produced in the country. The small grains, wheat, rye, barley and oats, 
produce as large an average yield as in the most favored grain-producing States. Of the 
native fruits, we have choke cherries, service berries, currants, gooseberries, blueberries, 
raspberries, and strawberries can be cultivated as successfully as in the New England States, 

"All the more important root crops, such as potatoes, turnips, rutabagas, beets, carrots, 
parsnips, radishes, and onions, and the most valuable garden vegetables, are cultivated with 
great success. Timber is abundant on the mountain slopes and in some of the valleys. Five 
species of pine, two of fir, one of spruce, and two of cedar, grow on thft mountains, and in 
the mountain valleys and canons ; balsam, poplars, aspens, alders, and willows, on the streams 
and in the moist valleys. 

"The pines, firs, spruces, and cedars furnish an abundance of good timber for building, 
mining, and farming purposes. The purest waters flow everywhere in cool springs, motui- 
taiu streams, meadow brooks, and clear rapid rivers. Hot and mineral springs also occur in 
various parts of the Territory. Beautiful lakes and magnificent falls and cascades are 
numerous in the mountains." 

* Professor A. K. Eaton, in a recent report to Governor Green Clay Smith, says of the 
agricultural resources and climate of Montana: 

"In a Territory so far removed from the great grain-producing States, the most vital ques- 
tion bearing upon our I'uture welfare is that as to our ability to become self-sustaining in all 
things pertaining to the necessaries of life. If our success thus far is not a sufficient guar- 
antee of our ability to raise all the cereals, root crops. Arc, requisite to support a largo 
number of inhabitants, a consideration of the geological and topographical formation of the 
country and its climatic characteristics would of itself demonstrate that the soil cannot 
fail to furni.sh all that is essential to the subsistence of an unlimited popitlation 

" Our valleys are very broad, ranging from five to fifteen miles in width, and made up of 
rich bottom lands and level or gently undulating plateaus. The mountain ranges on either 
side generally difixjr in their geological character. On one side, granite and its allied primi- 
tive rocks, by the disintegration of which valleys have been supplied with the alumina and 
alkaline silicates so necessary to an inexhaustible soil ; on the other, ranges of secondary 
limestone, sandstone, &c., that have furnished the additional constituents of a soil of 
unequalled richness. The want of rain to irrigate the lands is the only apparent difficulty, 
and nature has provided for this in the conformation of the country. Lying, as these 
plateaus do, nearly level, the mountain streams, which are frequent and never-failing, are 
readily turned from their courses and made to wind along the base of the foot-hills, upon the 
outer limits of the table lands, and thence distributed over almost every foot of arable land. 
This mode of irrigation has its decided advantages over that of the natural rain storms of 
regions nearer the coast, from the fact that it is wholly under the control of the fanner. In 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 491 

TiMBEE. — Pine is by far the most abundaut timber. The next is fir. The 
Cottonwood, which grows on the banks of the streams, is the only other tree, and 
it is used only for firewood, and occasionally for log houses. Mountain mahogany 
is the only hard Avood that grows in the Territory, and this is only a shrub. None 
of the valuable hard woods, as hickor}', maple, or ash, grow in Montana. 

Climate. — The climate of Montana in the mountainous parts is as cold as 
that of the New England States. It retards, or entirely prevents, placer mining 
for about half the year; and until quartz mines are opened, so that the miners 
can be employed during the long winters, they must remain idle much of their 
time. There are, however, exceptional years. The winter of 1862-63 was so 
mild that placer mining was continued Avith scarcely an interruption the entire 
year. Snow generally falls to a great depth, so that communication in the 
higher districts is somewhat irregular and uncertain during the Avinter. In the 
valleys, where the altitude is less, the climate is milder. In Deer Lodge and the 
Gallatin and Madison valleys stock continues in good condition, throughout the 
year, without hay or grain, the grass being abundant nearly all the time. Mon- 
tana is a remarkably healthy country. There seems to be no peculiar diseases 
incident to the climate. In the toAvns the great majorit}' of deaths are either 
accidental or the result of violence.* 

a Territory nearly four times as large as the State of New York, we have liundreds of thou- 
sands of acres of laud of this description, aA'ailable whenever the growth of the country may 
demand its cultivation. 

"No disquisition, however, is necessary upon the character of the soil or its origin. Facts 
demonstrate beyond question the self-sustaining character of the Territory in an agricultural 
point of view. Flour to-day is almost as cheap as iu the great grain-producing regions of 
the east, and this has been brought about by the cultivation of limited patches, here and 
there, of these broad lands. Our table-lands and the slopes of our foot-hills, Avithout irriga- 
tion, furnish the most abundant pasturage; the species of grass flourishing spontaneously 
being of the most nutritious character, and in some respects superior to the cultivated grasses 
of the east. 

"The peculiarities of our climate demand a passing remark. The great wind currents 
that start from the distant sea-coast regions laden Avith moisture, deposit it in beneficent 
shoAvers on their Avay, and reach our inland mountain regions Avith scarcely a drop to moisten 
our thirsty soil ; still this deprivation proves a blessing in disguise. It gives us an atmo- 
sphere comparatively free from moisture, and makes our severe Avinters more endurable than 
even those of lower latitudes. Our lowlands aro often almost free from snow during the 
Avhole season, and cattle graze and grow fat on the grasses of our valleys during our long 
Avinters. 

" The climate is indeed the m.ost pleasant and salubrious of any that I have personally 
ever knoAvn ; and this in a country Avhere the altitude of the A-alieys is about one mile above 
the level of the sea, and lying between 45'-' and 49*^ north latitude." 

* Captain Mullan says in his report : 

"The temperature of Walla-Walla, in 4G°, is similar to that of Washington city, in 38° 
latitude ; that of Clark's Fork, in 48", to that of St. Joseph, Missouri, in latitude 41° ; that 
of the Bitter Eoot A-alley, iu 4G°, is similar to that of Philadelphia, in latitude 40°, Avith 
about the same amount of snoAv, and, with the exception of a few days of intense cold, 
about the same aA^erage temperature. This condition of facts is not accidental, but arises 
from the truths of meteorological laws, that are as unvarying as they are Avonderful and 
useful. As early as the Avinter of 1853, which I spent in these mountains, my attention was 
called to the mild open region lying between the Deer Lodge valley and Fort Laramie, 
Avhere the buffalo roamed in millions through the Avinter, and Avhich, during that season, 
constituted the great hunting grounds of the Crows, Blackfeet, and other mountain tribes. 
Upon investigating the peculiarities of the country, I learned from the Indians, and alter- 
Avards confirmed by my own explorations, the fact of the existence of an infinite number 
of hot springs at the headwaters of the Missouri, Columbia, and Yellowstone rivers, and that 
hot geysers, similar to those of California, existed at the head of the Yellowstone ; that this 
lino of hot springs Avas traced to the Big Horn, Avhere a coal-oil spring, similar iu all 
respects to those worked in western Pennsylvania and Ohio, exists, and Avhere I am sanguine 
in ijelieving that the Avhole country is underlaid Avith immense coal fields. Here, then, vvas 
a featiu'e sufficient to create great modifications of climate, not local in its effect, but which 
eveu extends for several hundred miles from the Eed Buttes, on the Platte, to the plains of 
the Columbia. 

"A comparison of the altitude of the South pass, Avith the country on its every side, Avith 



492 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Navigable Watees. — Altliougli Montana is abundantly supplied with rivers 
canying large bodies of water, the great altitude of the Territoiy induces such 
rapid currents as to prove serious ohstacles to navigation. On the western slope 
the rivers are unnavigable for anything except rafts, small boats, and canoes, 
their courses being continually interrupted by shoals, rapids, and falls. On the 
eastern slope, the Missouri has a light-draught steamboat navigation of over 300 
miles to Fort Benton, and steamboats have ascended nearly to the Great Falls, 
situated about 50 miles above. Fort Benton is the depot of supplies for the 
whole Territory, and even to this point navigation is very uncertain. In dry 
seasons the Avater is scant on the shoals, and, as the banks are unsettled, the 
boats have to be supplied with fuel by cutting wood. In many places Avood is 
very scarce, and has to be carried on the backs of men for a mile or more. 
Vexatious delays are the result. Every year the wood is getting scarcer and 
more difhcult to procure. The hostility of the Indians also renders navigation 
perilous at this time. 

Coal is found some distance below Fort Benton. When mining for this article 
is carried on extensively it will probably supply the steamers with a sufficiency 
of fuel. It is a brown or lignite, probably in the cretaceous formation, and is 
found in veins of large size, traceable in the banks of the streams for long 
distances.* 

Mullan's pass, further to the north, may be useful in this connection. The South pass has 
an altitude of 7,489 feet above the level of the sea. The Wind River chain, to its north, 
vises till it attains, at Fremont's peak, an elevation of 13,570 feet, while to the north the 
mountains iucieasc in altitude till they attain, at Long's peak, an elevation of l.'JjOOO feet; 
while the plains to the cast have an elevation of G,000 feet, and the mountains to the west, 
forming the east rim of the great basin, have an elevation of 8,234 feet, and the country 
between it and the South pass an elevation of 6,234 feet above the level of the sea. The 
highest point on the road in the Summit line at Mullan's pass has an elevation of 6,000 feet, 
which is lower by 1,489 feet than the South pass. 

"The high range of the Wind River chain stands as a curvilinear wall to deflect and direct 
the currents of the atmosphere as they sweep across the continent. (By-the-by, whence 
arises the name of the Wind River chain?) All their slopes are well located to reflect back 
the direct rays of the heat of the sun to the valleys that lay at their bases. These valleys, 
already warm by virtue of the hot springs existing among them, receive this accumulative 
heat, which, driven by the new currents of cold air from the plains, rises and moves onward 
in the form of a river towards the valleys of the Rocky mountains, Avhere it joins the milder 
current from the Pacific and dift'uses over the whole region a mild, healthy, invigorating, 
and useful climate." (Mullan's Report, pp. 53, 54.) 

T hermomctricul data furnished Inj J. L. Corhett, civil engineer, Virginia City, Montana. 

1865.— Mean reading during the month of December 5o.22 above zero. 

1866. — Mean readuig during the month of January 27° 

1866.— Mean reading during the month of February 22° 

Mean during the three months, 18^ above zero. 

1866. — Mean during December 31° 

1867. — Mean during January 23°.73 

1867. — Mean during February 26° ",. , 

The mean during March, 1867, is unknown, as only the coldest days were registered, which 
were as follows r March 11, at 7.30 a.m., 0° ; at 8.20 a.m., 5°; at 1 p. m., 1°; at 6 p.m., 
12° ; at 10 p. m., 18°, or below zero. March 12, at 7 a. m., 18° ; at 10 a. m., 12° ; at 5 p. m., 
6° ; at 6 p. m., 16° ; at 9.15 p. m., 22°. March 13, at 7 a. m., 24° ; at 1 p. m., 10°, or above 
zero ; at 10 p. m., 3°, or above zero. Weather moderate afterwards. 

Twenty-four degrees below zero is the greatest cold experienced during the past three 
winters at this place. Meau during the winter months for the past two winters, 22° above 
zero. Mean of barometer reading, 2,440 inches ; altitude, 5,481 feet ; boiling point, 202° 
Fahrenheit ; latitude, 45° 27' 35"; longitude, about 111° 17'. 

* The surveyor general of Montana, in his report for 1867, says: 

" Bituminous coal has been found on the Big Hole river, about 60 miles from Bannack 
City ; in Jackass gulch, on the east side of the iSIadison ; and at Summit district, near Vir- 
ginia City, the veins being from three to four feet in width. Coal also exists at the head of 
tiie Yellowstone river. Brown coal, or lignite, is found in great quantities on the banks of 
the Missouri and Yellowstone, valuable as common fuel, but of no great value for manufac- 
turing- purposes. It has also been found on the headwaters of the Teton and Marias." 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 493 

The Yellowstone has not been suiRciently explored to determine its capabili- 
ties for navigation ; but those best qualified to judge think that, -with suitable 
boats, it may be navigable far higher than boats have yet reached. Indian hos- 
tilities and want of population have prevented a more thorough exploration. 
The rates of freight charged on the steamers from St. Louis to Fort Benton are 
so high that if a boat makes one trip it sometimes pays all expenses and returns 
the capital invested in the boat itself. Competition will probably reduce these 
charges, unless their trade should bo closed altogether by the Indians. 

The portion of Montana on the western slope forms a basin about 250 miles 
long and 75 miles Avide.* It is drained by the Missoula, Hellgate, Blackfoot, 
and Flat Head rivers, which uniting, form Clark's Fork of the Columbia river. 
The extreme northern part is drained by Tobacco river, wdiich empties into Lake 
Bratham, in Idaho Territoiy. Flat Head is the only lake of any considerable 
size in Montana. It is a beautiful sheet of clear water about 35 miles long and 15 
broad, surrounded by a fine farming and grazing country. This basin contains 
the best timber, and probably as good grazing and farming lands as are in the 
Territory. The valley of the JMadison and Gallatin only are equal to it in the 
lattei' respect. The warm moist winds from the Pacific induce a more vigorous 
development of vegetable life than in other parts of the Territory, where the high 
wall of the Rocky mountains prevents these winds from exercising their influence. 
In this mild and temperate climate the missionaries established missions for the 
religious advancement of the Indians. The sites of several of their missions still 
remain, and are admirably situated in the midst of a fertile country. 

From Flat Head lake south, towards the mission of Pen d'Oreille, along the 
foot of the Rocky mountains, the countr}^ is well supplied with timber, Avater 
and grass, and is an excellent agricultural district. South of the mission is the 
Jocko valley, containing the Pen d'Oreille Indian reservation. This is a small 
rich agricultural valley, Avhich, if properly cultivated, would be very j^roductive. 

Hell Gate valley is southeast from the reservation. It is about 25 miles long, 
and sis or seven broad, possessing excellent agricultural resources. Still south 
is the Bitter Root vallej^, about 60 miles long and eight Avide. In this is OAven's 
trading post, called Fort OAven, around Avhich is a flourishing settlement. 

The Hell Gate and Bitter Root at their junction form the Missoula, which 
retains that name nntil it forms a junction with the Flat Head forming Clark's 
Fork of the Columbia. Hell Gate and Bitter Root A'alleys contain a number of 
settlers, and in time Avill contain a largo, agricultural population. At this point 
the Bitter Root mountains present an almost impassable banier, Avith but fcAv 
passes, and can only be traversed in the wannest part of the year; at other 
seasons they are completely blockaded by the snoAv. 

*The surveyor general says : "The soil of tlie valleys and table lands is of good quality, 
and it is believed that fully one-third of the Territory is susceptible of profitable cultiva- 
tion. The more important valleys requiring immediate survey are the Bitter Root, Deer 
Lodge, Hell Gate, Ronde, Big Hole, Beaver Head, Stinking Water, Jefferson, Madison, 
Gallatin, Boulder, Prickly Pear, (including the town of Helena,) and the Missouri from the 
Three Forks to Caiion Ferry, east of Helena. The arable lands in these valleys amount, 
by careful estimate, to 9,000 square miles, and contracts for their surveys Avill be let as soon 
as possible. A ready home market is found for the product of the ranches and dairies, and 
the supply of the diiferent kinds of grain raised is no doubt sufficient for the wants of the 
population until another crop is produced. The yield of potatoes has been so great during 
the past season that it is believed that fully 1,000,000 bushels could be exported, and still 
have enough for home consumption. The wheat raised in Gallatin valley is closely estimated 
at 8,000 acres, and the other small grains, such as oats, barley, rye, &c., are placed at 6,000 
acres. The yield will be at least 30 bushels to the acre, giving us, as a low estimate of all 
the grain crop in that valley for this year, at 420,000 bushels. The list of the territorial 
auditor shows 165,140 acres of land under cultivalion in the Territory, and the total valuation 
of the property assessed is $5,70o,118. The flouring mills are particularly mentioned. The 
grazing lauds are among the finest in the world, their nutricious grasses serving to keep 
cattle and stock in good condition during the entire winter. The number of cattle grazing 
on these lands is estimated at 40 000." 



494 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Big Blackfoot comes into Hell Gate river in tbe canon of that name, and for 
15 miles runs through another canon. Above, it passes through a large and 
beautiful valley similar to that of Hell Gate. On the head of this river are some 
good placer mines. Some say the canon received this name of ''Hell Gate" 
from the gloomy character of its scenery ; others, that it was so named from the 
fact that the Indians, when on the war path, intent on deeds of blood and rapine, 
always issued out from it. Either cause would be sufficient. 

Flixt Ceeek. — Forty miles above the mouth of the Big Blackfoot, from the 
south, comes in Flint creek through a fine large valley with plenty of grass, 
water and timber. Recently near the head of this stream rich silver mines have 
been found, and a town of 400 or 500 inhabitants has sprang up in a few weeks. 
On one of the branches of Flint some good placer mines have been discovered 
Vvdiich paid well this summer. Twent}^ miles above this creek the Little Black- 
foot comes in from the northeast. For some distance above its mouth is a good 
grazing country, not suitable for agricultural purposes, but well timbered. The 
ravines and gulches at the head of this stream contain some good placer mines, 
and several mining towns have sprung up, such as Blackfoot City and Car- 
pentier's Bar. Quartz veins containing gold have been found in this vicinity, 
but they have not been sufficiently worked to prove their value. 

Deer Lodge Valley. — To the southward lies the Deer Lodge valle}', one of 
the most picturesque and beautiful, as well as one of the richest mineral and agricul- 
tural districts in Montana. It is about 35 miles long and 10 broad, surrounded 
by low rolling hills, whicli afford excellent pasturage. This favored region, called 
by the Indians Ttsookeencame, or, translated, ''the Deer's Lodge," takes its name 
from a singular mound in the upper end of the valley composed of silicious and 
ferruginous depositions, formed by a thermal spring. 

This mound is a truncated cone 30 feet in height, 100 feet in diameter at the 
base and 30 feet at the summit. Brightly colored with white and reddish-brown 
spots, it forms a notable landmark. In the winter, when the steam rises like 
smoke from a spring at the to^:), it bears a striking resemblance to a large Indian 
lodge. This spring is three feet in diameter and of a considerable depth. The 
water, which does not overflow at present, is nearly at the boiling point, while 
at the base of the mound several springs exist the temperature of which varies 
from near boiling point to icy coldness. A marsh elevated a few feet above the 
surrounding plains is fomied by the springs at the base of the mound. Veiy few 
such formations, caused by thermal springs, are found in the Pacific Territories. 
Hence it must be different from the ordinary methods of deposition. From the 
fact that the spring in the centre of the cone does not overflow, it is evident that 
in former times it must have been more active than at present, and that the forces 
that once gave it activity are failing ; also, that unless there is a recurrence of 
its ancient eruptive power the mound will never rise any higher. Probably it is 
lower than formerly. Ordinary thermal springs throw quite a volume of water, 
which, gradually cooling, continues to deposit its sediment for a considerable 
distance, depositions not being material!}' greater at the mouth of the springs 
than 100 or 200 yards distant. 

Quite a large number of farms are under enclosure in this valley. Stock 
raising also employs some of the inhabitants. Until recently there was but little 
mining in this vicinity. Last spring and summer some very good placer mines 
Avere discovered in the hills on the east side of the valley. On Silver Bar, a 
stream falling into the head of the valley, placer and quartz mines containing 
gold, silver and copper, especially the latter metal, have been worked for over 
two years, resulting in the mining towns of Silver Bar and Butte City. 

Town oe Cottonwood. — Cottonwood, the county-seat of Deer Lodge county, 
is situated on the north side of Cottonwood creek, near its junction with Deer 
Lodge creek. It has a good location for a town. The streets are wide and well 
laid out. The advantage of wide streets in mining towns is so evident, in view 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 495 

of tlie dangers from fire, that it is singular so few new towns are laid out in this 
manner. The houses are usually tuilt of wood. Fire engines are the accom- 
paniment of a more advanced progress. When a fire once gets fully under way 
in these mining towns it seldom stops until it meets an open space. 

Cottonwood is a pleasant little town, with that dreamy appearance of repose 
indicative of an agricultural district. Timber is scarce in the valley, but is 
abundant in the adjacent hills and mountains. Pine and fir constitute the sole 
supply. 

The scenery here is wonderfully picturesque. Spurs and broken chains of 
mountains, the lofty summits regularly dispersed, rise above and beyond one 
another, giving an idea of interminable distance. The rarity of tlie atmosphere 
consequent on the altitude causes the rays of light to be less strongly refracted 
than Avhen the atmosphere is denser, giving a strange and unnatural reflection 
to everj^ object. The light is peculiar in many respects. While it does not 
apparently impair vision, it seems to blend in all colors a portion of black. Thus, 
as the eye follows one mountain peak after another, the color becomes darker 
and darker, till the most distant are almost entirely black. The color of the 
snow, varied by increasing distance, goes through the same changes, and at last 
appears of a dark gray. There are none of those wondrous changes of tints and 
shadows which are so charming in the lower latitudes as Mount Hood, whose 
snows from a lumdred different points of observation never appear twice of the 
same color. Here every tint is sombre and rigid, and notwithstanding the beauty 
of the scenery the mind is chilled with a feeling of awe. This is heightened by 
the appearance of the low hills, which are covered with grass, and have the aspect 
of fields once cultivated, but now pennitted to return to a state of nature. 

In the upper part of the vallej^, near the hot springs, the snow seldom lies on 
the ground, and there is an abundance of good pasturage the year round. 

A curious and interesting fact connected with this locality is Avorthy of note. 
From the head of this valley into Big Hole, or the valley of Divide creek, a 
branch of Big Hole, is the lowest pass through the Rocky mountains. In fact, 
it is simply a continuation of one valley into another. At Butte City water is 
brought from the head of Boulder creek, which is a tributary of the Missouri, 
through a low pass into Silver Bar, a branch of Deer Lodge creek, thus taking 
the water from the Atlantic and giving it to the Pacific. 

The streams and small lakes which abound in the hills around this valley are 
well supplied with trout. All the streams on the Pacific slope contain trout ; but 
except in the Yellowstone and its tributaries the}^ are very scarce on the Atlantic 
slope. 

A short distance below Deer Lodge, a small creek empties into Hell Gate 
river from the west, called Gold creek. It is remarkable as the first place Avhere 
gold was discovered in Montana. The discovery was made on the banks of a 
stream whose waters finally flow into the Pacific ocean. 

During the present year the mines on the western slope have been much more 
productive than fomrerly, while on the eastern slope the production this year 
will be less than that of last year. 



496 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

SECTION II. 

MINES AND SYSTEMS OF MINING. 

Gold v/as discovered in Montana b}^ a French half-breed, named FranQoisFinlay, 
about the year 1852, on Gold creek, a branch of the Hell Gate river. He was 
merely prospecting', and did not find the gold in sufficient quantities to induce 
him to work the mines.* 

* Mr. Albert D. Richardson quotes from a book published in Cincinnati 50 years ago, as 
follows : 

"These mountains are supposed to contain minerals, precious stones, and gold and silver 
ore. It is but late that they have taken the name Rocky mountains ; by all old travellers 
they are called the Shining mountains, from an infinite number of crystal stones of an 
amazing size with which they are covered, and which, when the sun shines full upon them, 
sparkle so as to be seen at a great distance. The same early travellers gave it as their opinion 
that in future these mountains would be found to contain more riches than those of Indostan 
and Malabar, or the golden coast of Guinea, or the mines of Peru." 

Mr. Richardson remarks : 

"These surmises excited little notice, for the early travellers believed every mountain an 
El Dorado, and every stream a Pactolus. The first statement which appeared worthy of 
serious attention was made by Colonel William Gilpin of the United States army. This 
gentleman, a zealous student of the natural sciences, crossed the continent with a party of 
Oregon explorers, and ^ain with his command during the Mexican war. 

"In 184il, in an address at Independence, Missouri, as the result of all his observations, 
he asserted the abundant existence of gold, silver, and precious stones throughout the Rocky 
mountains." (Beyond the Mississippi, pp. I35-C.) 

Professor A. K. Eaton, in his report to Governor Green Clay Smith, gives the following 
general summary of the mineral resources of Montana : 

" Of the common minerals of value in the arts and manufactures, there seems to be every 
indication of abundance, although little has been done towards the development of them ; 
fire clay, gypsum and coal are indicated strongly in the tertiary deposits that underlie 
the table-lands of the valleys and elsewhere ; but they lie mostly undisturbed and undis- 
covered, except where some wandering prospector has accidentally come upon their out- 
crop. The pursuit of the precious metals has made the people oblivious to all minor con- 
siderations : but if we consider, for a moment, the immense advantage that would accrue 
to the Territory by the opening of reliable coal beds, it would be an incentive to the greatest 
etfort; fuel for our furnaces and manufactures, to say nothing of our ordinary needs, wili 
soon become scarce and dear. I believe that a small appropriation of money for the purpose 
would insure the discovery and development of coal deposits in a very short time. 

"Discoveries of new minerals and ores are occurring frequently in the Territory. Cinna- 
bar, which is of the first importance in a gold and silver-producing region, has been found, 
though not in place. Specimens of water-worn fragments of this mineral, found in the gulch 
workings of an almost unoccupied district of the Territory, were recently brought to me, 
which proved to be of the first quality. This is especially gratifying, since deposits of ores 
resembling cinnabar have been frequently found, and much useless labor expended in their 
development. I have also recently, and for the first time, examined true tin ore found within 
our territorial limits. This also was from gulch working. 

" Lead ores occur in profusion, both as galenas and as carbonate of lead, in nearly all 
districts of the Territory. These will not be worked at present, except Avhcn accompanied 
by silver. All the galenas are so accompanied, and generally in paying quantities of the 
latter metal. 

" Copper lodes are abundant, showing at the surface ores ranging from 15 to 60 per cent, 
of metallic copper. These when located near the Missouri river may be immediately made 
profitable. Copper ores in the eastern market probably command to-day about !|5 for every 
per cent, of copper contained ; 15 per cent, ore would be worth $75 per ton, and 60 per cent, 
ore $300. Thus, long before we shall be extensively engaged in smelting these ores, our 
copper lodes may prove largely remunerative. 

"The silver lodes of the Territory which at present attract much attention, are, in part, 
silver-bearing galenas. These range by practicable working from $20 to $300 per ton. The 
present cost of labor and fuel precludes the working of the poorer of these ores, but eventu- 
ally all will be worked profitably. The cost of smelting this class of ores cannot at present 
be put lower than $35 per ton, and in some localities would exceed this estimate; still 
there is an abundance of argentiferous galena that can be worked with great profit at the 
present prices of material and labor. Another class of silver lodes is found in the country 
which cany no lead or other base metal to interfere with the successful working ot the ores 
by amalgamation. It is from this class of ores probably that the first remunerative results 
will be obtained, owing to the simplicity of the machinery required. Mills are now being 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 497 

In 1856 other prospectors found gold at the same mines, but did not work 
them. In the fall of 1860 the Brothers Stuart & Co. prospected near the same 
place, and in 1861 and 1862 commenced working in earnest with sluices. This 
was the first regular placer mining in the Territor3\ In 1861 they wrote to some 

erected for workincj ores of this character. The great abundance of veins of this nature of 
the most promising appearance justifies the expectation that a short time will show large 
returns of bulh'on I'rom this source. 

"The placer mines of the Territory which have thus far been successfully worked, are 
those only which from their favorable location with reference to water, &,c., could be easily 
worked without the previous expenditure of capital by single workmen or by small parties. 
Gulches already worked ont by this wasteful method will be reworked perhaps as remune- 
ratively as at first, by the aid of capital. Ditches for the further supply of water, bed-rock 
flumes, and hydraulic apparatus are essential to the successful working of the majority of our 
gulch deposits, and when capital flows in that direction, many thousand acres cau be worked 
most profitably, which, to-day, individual effort cannot touch successfully. 

"That which has proven one of the most serious obstacles to successful mining in the 
Territory has been the profusion of gold-bearing veins, showing temptingly at the surface. 
Nature is never so lavish as she in this case appears, and in tbe light of general mining 
experience, we have no right to expect more than a small percentage of true, strong and 
uniformly rich veins from this great surface display. Thus it is that several failures may 
precede one great success in the development of mines. There can be no doubt in the mind 
of any one, making the country a careful study, of the boundless wealth that is hidden in its 
bosom. Indefatigable energy and untiring perseverance will alone reveal its full magnitude. 

"A large number of mills for the M'orking of gold ores have been erected in the Territory, 
and few of them with more than partial success. The reason is obvious, and in their partial 
failure, mining history only reflects itself. Some of them are of that untried character of 
which it may be said that whilst they show in construction some new features and some 
good ones, unfortunately the new things are not good, and the good points are not new. 
Novel inventions, even if capable of success elsewhere, are inevitably destined to failure in a 
new country. The principal difiiculty, however, has been the imperfect management of these 
different enterprises, arising sometimes from the incapacity of agents, but more frequently 
from the impossibility of anticipating in a country new and undeveloped the exact require- 
ments of the case. One great error has been made by almost all. It has arisen from the 
over-sanguine belief that quartz could be mined in quantity without preliminary expense iu 
development. The mills are erected, the money and patience of the proprietors exhausted, 
and with untold wealth the machinery is left to rust and rot for want of ore. To-day nearly 
every mill in the Territoiy could be worked most profitably by the expenditure of a few 
thousand dollars in the thorough opening of the mines belonging to them. Excuse me, sir, 
for referriiig to the embarrassments under which we are laboring. If, is only by looking our 
errors in the face that we can find the way to success. It is the fourth year of my residence 
in the Territory, and I can assure you that my confidence in its great mineral wealth is 
stronger than ever, and notwithstanding the discouragements that we have been compelled 
to meet, we may say with pride that no new Territory has made such rapid advances iu so 
short a time as this. The working of many thousands of tons of gold ore in different parts 
of the Territory, varying from $15 to .$75 per ton by active working, is a sufficient indication 
of the probable average of our gold-bearing rock. The lowest of these limits pays a profit 
even at the present price of labor in a mill of any considerable capacity. The expense of 
the importation of machinery has diminished to almost half since the first mills were erected 
here. The Union Pacific railroad is every day bringing us near to the sources from which 
we draw m.achinery and capital. Foundries and machine shops are springing up in our 
midst, and we are in all directions fast becoming self-sustaining. With agricultural resources 
unexcelled, with a climate most inviting, v/ith mineral wealth inexhaustible, Ave may, with 
reason, feel assured that Montana will take the highest rank among the gold and silver- 
producing States." 

The surveyor general in his report for 18G7, says: 

"When provisions and labor become cheaper, many gulches will be worked which are at 
present untouched. Large amounts of money have been expended this season in the con- 
struction of ditches, and in preparations for gulch mining next year. The result of these 
preparations will be that, during 1868, fully 50 per cent, more gold will be taken out than 
there has been this season. The production of gold for this season has been estimated at 
$20,000,000, and still not a tenth part of the Territory has yet been prospected. 

"Iron has been found on Jackass creek. 

"Copper abounds principally in the vicinity of the Muscleshell river. The width of the 
veins is from three to four feet.' Placer copper has been found on Beaver creek, near Jeffer- 
son City, which shows some splendid specimens. 

"The leads of Montana arc generally better defined than in any other mining country in 
the world, and the singular freaks sometimes taken by them in other regions are less frequent 
here." 

32 



498 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

of their friends in Colorado in reference to their prospects find hopes, and induced 
quite a number of adventurers to come to Montana in the spring of 1862. 

The mines on Gokl creek not promising as rich as was expected, the Stuarts 
and others began to prospect the country extensively, and that summer found 
some mines on a gulch at the head of the Big Hole, which, however, were not 
very productive. Early in the same summer the mines at Bannock on Grasshopper 
creek were discovered. These were so rich and extensive that the other mines 
Avere abandoned, and by the fall of 1862 nearly all the miners in the Territory, 
numbering about 1,000, had congregated at this place. 

Bannock Placers. — The Placer mines of Bannock are found on the banks 
and in the bed of Grasshopper creek, and extend from the town down the creek 
for a distance of seven or eight miles. They paid well at first ; as the creek 
had an abundance of water, tliey could be worked by miners with great facility. 

The banks appear to be nearly exhausted now; but the bed of the creek, if 
flumed and worked in a proper manner, would still yield largely. A few miles 
south from Bannock, near Horn Prairie, ai'e extensive flats and gulches, which 
prospect fairly. When supplied with water, which will be brought in this fall, 
they will give employment to a large number of miners. 

There are 200 or 300 miners in this vicinity, working at various points in the 
creek and its banks, probably making something over wages, viz : $5 a day in 
gold. 

In working in the bed of the creek there does not seem to be any concert of 
action, so as to enable one individual or company to take advantage of the 
works of another. Each operation is carried on by itself. After one company 
has put a dam in the creek, and turned the water into a flume, the next company 
below can take the Avater at the end of the flume much more easily than the first 
obtained it. When one claim is drained so as to be workable, the next below 
Avill be drier and more easily worked than if nothing had been done above. 

Bannock Quartz. — The first quartz veins Avorked in the Territory Avere in 
Bannock. 

Grasshopper creek heads at the foot of a large smooth mountain, called Bald 
mountain, which abounds in A^eins containing gold, sih^er, and copper. The creek 
then runs eastAA^ardly through a basin, when its branches, concentrating, pass out 
through a limestone canon. At the head of this canon are quartz A^eins containing 
free gold. These veins are the source from which the placer mines on the creek 
were supplied. No gold is found aboA^e the veins. The cvoppings being promi- 
nent and conspicuous, Avere soon discovered and quartz claims located. 

In the Avinter of 1862-63, tAVO men, named Allen and Arnold, put up the first 
quartz mill. It Avas entirely of home manufacture ; the irons Avere obtained 
from old Avagons and fashioned in a blacksmith's shop ; all the lumber nsed, 
except pine, fir, and cottouAvood, came from the same source. The mill had six 
stamps of 400 pounds each, and A\-as driven by Avater. The men Avho built it 
ran it. In a financial point of vicAV it Avas a success. The ores were from the 
discovery claim of the Dakota, and No. 6 of the same lode. 

A number of mines in this vicinity Avere sold to parties in the eastern States, 
who liaA'e expended considerable sums of money and erected several large and 
costly mills. 

In the fall of 1864 the first steam stamp mills commenced Avorking at Ban- 
nock. They Avere only moderately successful in extracting the gold. The men 
Avho had charge Avere practically unacquainted Avith the business, and generally, 
as soon as they had learned to manage Avith more skill, they Avere superseded by 
others without experience and the same process repeated. 

One furnace Avas erected Avhich only ran a short time. It is now being rebuilt. 
The probability is it Avill only continue in operation as long as the ores are sus- 
ceptible of reduction more cheaply by smelting than by roasting and amalga- 
mating. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 499 

The mines of Bannock have produced a large amount of ore. With proper 
management they would continue to pay well. A captain ignorant of his busi 
ness, with a crew of landsmen, can manage a ship as well as a superintendent 
i;nacquainted with mining can manage a mine or mill with men unaccustomed to 
either. 

Sulphuret ores have been reached in some of the mines, which the mills will 
not be able to reduce without additional and proper machinery. 

The Dakota. — The Dakota was the first lode discovered and has been worked 
most extensively, probably more than all other veins in the district. It is a 
large, iiTegular vein, distinctly traced on the surface for over a mile in length, 
and opened at six different points to a depth of 100 feet, and in one place to the 
depth of 320 feet. There is no doubt of its depth and permanency. It varies 
in thickness from three to eight feet ; dips to the northeast ; strike, nortliwest 
and southeast ; the general dip and strike of the veins in this locality. It car- 
ries the oxidized ores to a great depth, containing free gold, easy of extraction. 

The Dakota was located under the old law, which only allowed 100 feet to 
a claim. Nearly every claim was held separately, which materially interfered 
with the proper opening and working of the mines. One tunnel has been driven 
in 800 feet in a thorough and workmanlike manner. Some of the shafts are 
well constructed, but much of the work is poorly done and on a bad system, 
rendered necessary in part by the small size of the claims. Each company 
should own at least 1,000 feet, which would justify opening in a proper manner. 

The country rock enclosing the lodes is limestone, of a late geological epoch, 
and rests unconformably upon syenites. No veins have been found in the sye- 
nites, and probably if they pass from the limestone into the syenites they will be 
found to be impoverished. 

Argenta.- — Argenta mining district lies north from Bannock on the north 
bank of the Rattlesnake creek. This district, although not large, contains a 
great number of veins. In no part of Montana yet explored have as many 
veins been found in so small a compass. On the creek a few small spots have 
been worked for placer gold. 

The quartz veins are in limestone and greatly resemble those at Bannock, 
only they contain more lead and iron. 

The hill on the north side of the creek and opposite the town is a perfet net- 
work of veins, which are very irregular, and many of them when followed down 
are found broken and the continuation lost. 

A shaft sunk on this hill is almost sure to strike a blind ledge or a portion of 
some ledge that crops to the surface in some other location. 

The proper way to work these mines is by vertical shafts. A large amount 
of ground should he owned by one company. The great number of claim-holders 
in a small space, with the irregular and uncertain nature of the veins, will cause 
many conflicts of opinion, if nothing more, should an attempt be made to work 
them separately under each location. The whole hill appears to be full of bunches 
or pockets of ore, irregularly dispersed. To extract them will require a com- 
plicated system of mining operations. 

Further west the veins are larger, better defined, and not so numerous. Some 
of them contain much richer ore. 

The Legal Tender has been opened to a greater extent than any other in 
this district. It is irregular in size and rather small, but the ore is rich and con- 
tains a large amount of lead, which renders it excellent for smelting. 

The Stapleton is a good vein and will yield a considerable amount of ore. 
It contains but little lead. The ore is well calculated for amalgamation. 

The TuscAROEA is situated in a small hill or knoll. At the surface it dis- 
plays a vast amount of carbonate and oxide of lead. The ore is not very rich 
in silver, but as a lead mine it may prove valuable. 

The smelting works erected by the St. Louis and Montana Company, for a 



500 RESOURCES Oh' STATES AND TERRITORIES 

pioneer enterprise, arc well constructed, and in a metallurgical point of view 
their present operations are eminently successful. Whether the financial view 
is as flattering- is unknown. The company wisely conduct their own business. 

In this country where all articles are so dear, and skilled labor scarcely to be 
had, the cost of smelting is very great. Unless the ore is very rich no profit 
will accrue. 

The ore from a few mines in this district must be smelted, as it contains a 
large amount of lead, but probably nine-tenths of the ore can be reduced more 
profitably by amalgamation. Much of it would pay well if worked judiciously. 

The limestone appears to be of the same age as that at Bannock, but here it 
rests unconformably on granite. Here the granite contains no rich veins, and 
when they pass from the limestone into it they are much smaller and generally 
barren. 

Argenta, a small mining town, is situated on the south bank of Battlesnalie 
creek. It is pleasantly located on a small tongue of the Beaver Head valley, 
surrounded by hills except where it opens out. Eastward it gives a splendid 
view of the Beaver Head valley, and of the Virginia mountains in the distance. 

The mines are silver-bearing quartz veins, situated on the north side of the 
creek, and are not much worked at present. The only smelting works now in 
operation in the Ten-itory are located at this place. On Horse prairie there are 
some good placers, but they are not available at present, owing to a scarcity of 
water. This will soon be remedied by a ditch from the creek, now in course of 
construction. On Rattlesnake creek, above Argenta, are very distinct marks 
of glacial action. The polish on the rocks is very fine, and the strike marked 
with great distinctness, showing a movement to the southeast. 

Red Rock creek comes in from the south, and is probably the ultimate head of 
the Missouri river. From this creek to Dry creek, in the Snake River valley, 
there is an easy pass from the Atlantic to the Pacific slope. 

Summit District. — The quartz veins in this district were the undoubted 
som'ceof the gold in Alder gulch. Several of them were discovered and located 
soon after the location of the placer mines in the gulch below. 

The first mill here, like the first at Bannock, was of Montana manufacture. 
A wagon supplied the iron ; the choice lumber and the natural products of the 
district, with the labor of the builders, furnished all else. It was a financial 
success, but as the ore was carefully selected the yield was higher than has been 
obtained since. The mill was propelled by water ; its capacity was three and 
one-half tons per week. 

Since then many veins have been sold in th'3 eastern States and a number of 
fiteam stamp mills erected, a few of which have been moderately successful. 
They only employ, battery amalgamation, and pass the pulp over copper plates, 
which will not save as much gold as when iron pans or arrastras are used. 

One mill lias a great collection of costly mechanical curiosities, many novel 
and some obsolete. After a year's experience the operators still indulge in the 
antici|iation of gratifying results. The method employed in these mills will not 
extract the gold from sulphuret ore. The mines contain a large amount of oxi- 
dized ore, which will eventually be exhausted, and the sulphuret ores will alone 
remain. Sulphurets constitute the main reliance for the future ; and the Avorking 
of any mill that cannot extract the gold Ixom them will not bo permanently profit- 
able. 

The mills in operation in thi's district crush about a ton to the stamp in 24 
hours. The cost of working in two mills was $6 50 to $7 per ton, respectively, 
while in another it was estimated at $3 25 per ton ; these were stamp mills. In 
another, the cost was $25 per ton. The cost of the stamp mills was from $20,000 
to $30,000 each, according to their capacity, which varied from 15 to 24 tons per 
day. The cost of one mill was $120,000, with a capacity of about 12 tons per 
day. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 501 

Wood varies from $5 to $6 50 per cord ; wages are from $6 to $9 per day. 

About 20 mines have been located and opened to some extent in the Summit 
district. Among the most celebrated are the Kearsarge, Oro, Cash, and Lucas. 

The Kearsarge vein is about two feet thick on an average, though in places it 
is sis and a half feet. Strike, northeast and southwest ; dip 45° to the north- 
west ; opened to a depth of 120 feet ; sulphuret ore at the bottom of the shaft 
pays in a mill $18 per ton. 

Lucas vein J average thickness three feet ; strike north and south ; shaft 140 
feet; ore sulphuret; yields S16 per ton. 

Oro Cash vein, average thickness four feet ; selected ore pays $80 per ton ; 
opened 100 feet deep ; ore sulphuret. The first lot of a few tons from this uiine 
worked $216 to the ton. 

There are many veins in this locality that will pay well when judiciously opened 
and worked. 

Hot Springs District. — A large amount of money has been expended in 
opening mines and building mills in this district. The mills cost from $30,000 
to $200,000, as estimated by men who have had good opportunities of obtaining 
coiTCct information. The estimates may be too high, but it is certain the expendi- 
tures have been extravagant, compared with the capacity of the mills. 

There are three mills in the district, two of which are running, the other nearly 
completed. The largest has 40 stamps, 20 of which are running. Its capacity 
is 20 tons per day. The capacitj^ of the others is less. 

The mill companies in many instances do not wish their results made public, 
as it miglit affect the price of their stock. In some cases, owing to the short time 
during which they have been running, no accurate estimates of the yield can be 
made. Within a year or two greater experience in working will result in some- 
thing like a general average of profit to each mill. 

In the Cape mill ore was worked from 18 different veins, in amounts aver- 
aging from 3 to 50 tons. The average yield from all the veins was $20 per 
ton. It is claimed that the Posey mine pays $100 per ton, and has been opened 
to a depth of 200 feet. The vein is very irregular. 

The George Atkins is opened 50 feet deep ; thickness of vein one to three 
feet ; strike northeast and southwest ; dip 45° to the northwest ; works from $40 
to $50 per ton. The country rock is granite. 

Bevin's gulch. Granite creek and Williams's creek empty into Alder gulch 
from the southwest, and have some gold and silver-bearing quartz veins. They 
prospect well. Being now worked, their value will soon be known. 

There are many gulches near Virginia, as the Norwegian, which is on the 
east side of the range and empties into the Madison, like Meadow creek and Flat 
Springs creek ; the California, Brandon, Ram's Horn gulches and Mill creek; 
all contain veins that prospect well in gold at the surface, and many of them in 
silver and copper. When opened no doubt some of them will become valuable 
mining localities. 

Helena. — The Helena mines were discovered in September, 1864, at Dry 
gulch. Soon after, gold was found in Last Chance gulch, and as the latter 
gulch contained water and prospected richer, it became the centre of mining 
operations. After Alder gulch, this is the richest that has been worked in this 
Territory, and is yielding largely this season. 

The depth of these diggings ranges generally from 10 to 20 feet. In some 
claims it is over 40 feet from the surface to the bed-rock. Work has been almost 
exclusively confined to the bed of the gulch. On the western side of the Prickly 
Pear valley, at and below the mouth of Dry creek, and on both sides of Last 
Chance gulch, there are hundreds of acres of shallow placers that will pay when 
water ie introduced. 

Owing to a scarcity of w^ater. Dry gulch has not been very extensively worked. 
A supply has just been brought in by means of ditches from Ten-mile creek, 



502 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

and the prospect is now more encouraging. Last Chance gulch is formed by 
the junction of Grizzly and Oro Fine gulches, about half a mile above the town 
of Helena. Grizzly comes in from the south and Oro Fino from the north. Both 
have been worked extensively and profitably. 

The country rock near Helena is limestone and metamorphic slate ; further up 
in the mountains granite prevails. A large number of gold-bearing quartz veins 
are found in it, from which it is evident the gulches below received their gold. 

Nelson's gulch, which heads in these granite mountains and runs into Ten- 
mile creek, has been nearly as rich as Oro Fino or Grizzly gulches. South from 
these heads are a number of gulches running into Prickly Pear, which have paid 
well. The greatest obstacle that the miners encounter is the want of fall in the 
beds of the gulches. Tliey are too flat ; but the same method of fluming with 
steam machinerj'- for removing the tailings from the flume, recommended for Alder 
gulch, will be equally as efficacious here. 

The mines around Helena are supplied with water by a number of ditches, 
the actual cost of none exceeding $100,000. Small ditches usually are profit- 
able ; large ones seldom pay the cost of construction. 

The Park mining district is about five miles from Helena, at the head of 
Grizzly, Oro Fino. and Nelson's gulches. It is situated in a range of low roll- 
ing hills, at the foot of a high range of mountains. These hills are elevated to 
a considerable height above Helena, and are covered with pines and fir. Water 
is abundant and roads are of easy constnaction. 

The mineral range is in granite, and about three-fourths of a mile wide and 
iive or six miles lono-. The ci'eneral strike of the veins is east-southeast and 

o O ... 

west-northwest, with a dip to the northward. The average thickness of the prin- 
cipal veins is three to four feet. On the northeast this district is bounded by a 
range of limestone ; the greater number of veins is found in the granite near its 
junction with the limestone. 

The greatest depth yet attained is 250 feet, following the dip of the vein. At 
that depth the ores are still oxidized. Sulphuret ores will soon be reached. In 
some of the veins sulphurets are found near the surface. This is not usual. 

A number of mills have been erected in this district. Generally they have 
been successful in saving the gold. They are nearly all supjilied with batter}'- 
amalgamators, copper plates and arrastras. 

The Whitlatch Union Vein has been more fully opened than any other in 
Montana. Its strike is east-southeast and west-northwest ; dip 40° to the north- 
ward; thickness of vein from a seam to 15 feet; average 4 feet; opened to the 
depth of 250 feet, and in a number of points inclines have been sunk to depths 
from 100 to 200 feet. It has been traced for a long distance on the surface, and 
several different companies arc at work on it. 

" The ore is worked with the greatest facility. Its average yield has been about 
$40 to the ton. One lot of 1,000 tons yielded $60,000, or '$60 per ton. The 
gross yield, so far, has been $250,000, as near as is known by the working of 
the different mills. 

On Ten-mile creek some veins have been located in limestone, which con- 
tain gold, silver, copper, lead, &c., but they have not been sufficiently developed 
to prove their depth or promise. 

It is a general rule in Montana that where placer mines are found gold-bear- 
ing quartz veins will be found in the same vicinity. 

On some of the bars of the Missouri river preparations are being made for 
mining. 

At El Dorado bar a ditch is nearly completed to bring the water from New 
York gulch. When this is done the bar can be worked by hydraulics, and will 
probably pay. Recently it was supposed that diamonds had been found on the 
bar, but on examinatioii the supposed diamonds proved to be tapphires. Some 
of them were fine, though small. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 503 

On the east side of the Missouri are a number of gulches that have paid well 
Clark, Oregon, and Cave have been profitably worked this season. 

Montana Bar. — This bar is just below the mouth of Montana gulch, and 
near 300 yards above Diamond City. It is about one-fourth of a mile long 
and 300 yards wide. It is estimated that tho best claims, of 200 feet in length, 
extending across this bar, paid as much as $180,000 to the claim. The earth 
was shallow and the bed-rock slate. Between the 9th of May and the 15th of 
August the whole l)ar was worked out. The gold was rather coarse and rough, 
showing that it had been washed but a short distance. The ground was slate, 
of the same character as the bed-rock. 

The position of this bar is considered anomalous by the miners ; nearly all 
say that it is a "slide,*' a term generally used in mining, like "electricity" in 
physics, to explain by words what is not conceivable in thought. No doubt the 
bar was formed by the action of water, in precisely the same manner as other 
bars are formed in small mountain streams. As it is lower than several other 
bars in this stream it must be of more recent formation. Along the sides of the 
gulch the ascent is very abrupt, the mountains on the east side being from 1,000 
to 2,000 feet above the bed of the stream. On each side of the bar is a bed of 
ground from 200 to 250 feet above this bottom level, and a slide, to find its way 
to the centre of the gulch, must have passed over one or the other of these 
bars — an impossibilit}". 

The gravel in the other bars is granite, with heavy boulders, evidently from 
the granite momitains on the east, while the gravel in Montana bar is slate. 
Very little quartz is found in this gravel, showing that the veins whence the gold 
came were soft and friable. 

Diamond Bae. — Diamond bar contains the same gravel and the same quality 
of gold, and is really a continuation of Montana bar; above and below on this 
gulch nothing like it is found. The combined length of the two bars is not 
more than three-fourths of a mile. 

At the head of Montana bar are a number of soft decomposed quartz veins, 
which probabl)'^ supplied it with gold. If the veins were thoroughly explored, 
they would be very likely to prove rich in gold. Montana bar was entirely 
exhausted last year. Diamond bar is being very efiiciently worked by hydraii- 
lies this year, and by the end of this season will probably be exhausted. 

Gold Hill, on the west side, will be supplied with water by a costly ditch 
and siphon, some time during the autumn. This will be more enduring than the 
bars in the bottom of the gulch. The bed and hill diggings to the southwest 
will be profitable mines for years. Some gold-bearing quartz veins have been 
found in the hills on the west side, but they have not been opened to prove their 
value, to any great extent. 

New York Gulch has been worked for gold-bearing quartz. It has three 
mills, one of which is running. This district is somewhat out of repute at present ; 
it is said the veins do not pay as well when followed down as at the surface. 
But this is probably the effects of overestimating the yield at the surface ; and 
as; greater depth is attained, finding the ore more refractory, it will not yield its. 
gold to the simple working of the mills. ^ 

Highland District, about 60 miles south from Helena, is remarkable as pro- 
ducing a very fine gold. It contains both placer and quartz mines, but is not 
as much worked as formerly. It is the most elevated mining district in Montana, 
and probably in the United States. 

The Montana Post of August 31, 1867, says: "In Highland district the larger 
proportion of the lodes are gold-bearing, but specimens from some of these lately 



504 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



discovered and subjected to the action of fire sliow ricli in silver, 
ing are the names of leads in Highland district : 



The follow- 



No. 



Names of leads. 



Depth of 

shaft. 



Width of 
crevice. 



Ballarat 

Forrest Queen 

A. P. Kevins 

Gold Excel 

Only Chance 

Park 

Talcoe 

Bijou 

East Wheel Rose. 

Oro Pietra 

Wilbur 

Voleny 

Gallus Widow . . . 

Belfast 

South America... 

Reward 

Roanoke 

Corydon 

H viand 



Coleman 

Camp 

I. N. Meyers 

Bendigo 

Red Mountain 

Waterbury 

Iron Rod 

Highland Summit. 

Golconda 

General Warren . . 



45 

15 

4.^ 

16 

50 

20 

17 

13 

24 
Crevice found 

44 

12 

10 

IG 

18 
Crevice found, 

10 
Crevice found 
...do 



...do 

23 

10 

10 

11 

Crevice found. 
...do 

10 

11 
Crevice found. 



55 

51 
6 
3 
3 

30 
4 
7 

15 
6 
7 
6 
4 

47 
C, 

33 
6 
6 
7 
8 
5 
C 
7 
6 
3 



During the last summer the mining current has set to the north, along the 
Big Blackfoot. A number of gulches have been extensively worked, and have 
produced largel3^ as Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, California, and McClellan 
gulches. 

In the heads of these gulches gold-bearing quartz has been found. The 
placers only have been worked, and they have paid well. The hostility of the 
Indians this year has prevented explorations further north. It is probable that 
when explored, gold will be found on both slopes of the Eocky mountains north 
to the British possessions. 

The mines on the Little Blackfoot have paid well this season, particularly at 
Carpentier's bar, and on Ophir gulch, near Blackfoot City. Many other gulches 
in this vicinity have also been productive, and the yield of Deer Lodge county 
will be greater this ja^ar than ever before. 

At Silver bar and Butte City the mines have done well. Placers only have 
been worked; but in every gulch Avhere good placer mines are found, gold-bear- 
ing quartz veins are found also, many of which contain silver, copper, antimony, 
arsenic, and manganese, and are rich but very refractory. 

At Butte City some copper mines have been discovered, and a furnace erected 
for smelting. Owing to a defect in the blast it was not successful. The ore, 
which is quite abundant, is composed of oxides and carbonates in a concentrated 
form. It contains gold and silver, and Avith a well regulated furnace there 
would be no difficulty in smelting it. 

These veins are found crossing a belt about one mile Avide and four or five 
long, and show evidence of being deep and permanent. 

Along the eastern side of Deer Lodge valley, north from Butte City, are a 
.number of' gulches which have been prospected lately, and promise to pay well. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 505 

CoMSTOCK. — At Butte City resides Henry Comstock, famous as the disco\'erer 
of the Comstock lode,* of Nevada, the discovery of which inaugurated the era of 
silver mining in the United States. Although a man of the strictest temperance, 
tising no stimulant stronger than tea or coffee, and not even tobacco, years and 
the hardships and excitement incident to a frontier life are telling painfully on 
his faculties. In a conversation with him he refeiTcd to his past career — espe- 
cially his connection with the lode that bears his name. His intellect appears to 
Avander, although his hand still retains its cunning. He is a skilful prospector, 
but his fading recollections carry cloudy images to his darkened understanding. 
He imagines he owns the whole Comstock lode, and the cities of Gold Hill and 
Virginia; but as he has no immediate use for them, he allows others to live in 
his houses; the people are poor, and it would be hard to turn them out, especially 
in the winter. This feeling of benevolence in the old man is genuine, and one 
that he habitually practices. He has a small claim that pays little more than 
wages. If a poor miner comes along without means, he gives him an opportu- 
nity to work in the claim until the suffering stranger has the means to go on his 
journey. 

Recently an emigrant came along Avho was sick and could work but little. 
Comstock and he worked together in the claim ; the old man doing the most 
laborious part until the emigrant concluded to leave. Comstock then divided 
what w'as taken out, and seeing it was too small for a man to travel on, said: 
^^Now, we will divide my half again; you will need it." 

He says that at times he thinks if the government of the United States knew 
how he is situated, it would not let him suffer. 

Flint Creek. — On Flint creek several silver-bearing veins have been found 
recently, which show large amounts of rich ore at the surface. They have not 
been opened so as to prove their depth or continuity. The country rock is lime- 
stone. 

Hot Springs. — At the head of Hot Springs creek, a mine called the Atlantic 
Cable has recently been found containing an oxide of iron, rich in gold. It is 
said to be a slide. The ore is wonderfully rich and easily worked. 

The Jefeerson Basin. — This basin is drained by the Jefferson Fork of the 
Missouri river and its tributaries, to wit : the Big Hole, Beaver Head, and the 
Stinking Water. It is about 150 miles long, and 100 Avide. In this bafein the 
first extensive mining operations were conducted, and the first town of any 
importance was built. It still contains a number of important mining localities. 

The Big Hole is so called from a small round valley near its head, surrounded 
by a range of high mountains. Here the snow falls to a great depth in winter. 
As it melts in the spring and summer, it swells the Big Hole to a large and 
rapid stream, from 50 to 75 yards wide in the loAvest stages, and much wider in 
the highest. The bars and bottoms along this stream are subject to overflow, 
and are generally rockj^ and barren. Big Hole basin affords good pasturage in 
the summer, but it is too cold for agricultural purposes. 

In 1805 Lewis and Clark attempted to ascend this river, but found the cun-ent 
so rapid, and the number of islands and other obstructions so great, that they 
turned back and ascended the Beaver Head river. 

Gold has been found in small quantities in some of the tributaries of this river, 
but not in sufficient abundance to pay for washing. Coal is said to have been 
found in the basin, but the deposits have not been explored sufficiently to deter- 
mine their value. 

* The first discovery of silver was made ia Gold canon, near Silver City, by E. A. and H. 
B. Grosch, iu 1857. The first quartz claim was located in the Ingrim district, in February, 
1858, by James Finney. In June, 1859, Peter O'Reilly and Patrick McLaughlin made the 
first discovery of rich silver deposits on what is now the ground of the Ophir Company. 
Comstock is not justly entitled to the credit generally awarded him for this discovery. (See 
preliminary report on Mineral Resources of the West, printed by Congress, January 8, 1867, 
pp. 27 and 85. ) 



506 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Game, sucli as buffalo, moose, elk, deer, beaver, and mountain sheep, are 
a,buiidant. 

The Beaver Head is longer and drains a larger area than the Big Hole, and 
may fairly claim to be the head of the JMissouri. 

13ANN0CK City. — Bannock City is built on the north side of Grasshopper 
creek, on a small flat or bar of just sufficient size to hold the town, and very near 
the entrance of Grasshopper canon. It is an in-egular wooden town with one 
principal street ninning parallel to the creek, containing but a few hundred 
inhabitants at present. In 1862-63 it was a good mining camp, and business 
was brisk. Its main dependence for the future is the gold-bearing quartz lodes 
in the caiion below. 

Bannock was the first mining town built in Montana, and the first district in 
which gold mines were worked extensively and profitably. 

The winter of 186,2-63 was remarkably mild, so that supplies could be hauled 
fi'om Salt lake during the coldest months. Had that season been as severe as 
the winters have since been, the whole population might have perished from 
starvation. Coal is reported to have been found in the valley of Grasshopper 
creek, about four miles above Bannock, but its value has not been ascertained. 

Stinking Water. — The next stream which contributes to form the Jefferson is 
the Stinking Water. Its Indian name is Passamarine, one of the most musical 
in the Indian language. It is not improved by its rendition into English. On 
this stream and its branches many rich mines are found. 

In the ranges of mountains between the Stinking Water and the Madison 
fork of the Missouri, sent down into the former, are a large number of creeks and 
gulches, nearly all of which have proved to be rich in gold, and some of them 
in silver. The principal are Wixansen, Ram's Horn, Bevius, Harris, California, 
and Alder gulches, and Mill creek. 

Alder Gulch. — Alder gulch rises in a spur of the Rocky mountains, and 
runs north. It is from 15 to 17 miles in length, and empties into the Stinking 
Water, a branch of the Jefferson fork of the Missouri river. It has many side 
gulches or tributaries, but none of them except Spring and Bowers gulches, which 
are near its head, have any gold, or at least not sufficient to pay. The hills on 
each side are rounded off and covered with soil, presenting the soft outline of an 
agricultural country. The denuding effects of time have doubtless been of long 
continuance. 

A careful examination of the gulch will convince any one that the gold in it 
came from near the head, at its junction with Bald mountain. The gold at that 
point is coarse and rough, with portions of quartz adhering to it; further down 
the stream it becomes finer and brighter, showing unmistakable evidence of 
liaving been worn by the action of water. Near the mouth it is excessively 
fine, and cannot be collected in a satisfactory manner except by the use of quick- 
silver. 

The gravel is very coarse and heavy high up the gulch, containing many 
boulders of a large size ; further down it becomes worn away to small particles, 
and at the mouth only sand and very fine gravel are found. The country rock 
at or near the head is gneiss, and the same rock holds for a considerable dis- 
tance; below it is replaced by micaceous slate. Near the head the rocks rise on 
each side in a very precipitous manner, forcing the gulch into a narrow cut or 
fissure, but below, at the distance of three or four miles, it widens out. The 
paying portions correspond in width to the bed of the stream, and are richest 
where the bed is narrowest. 

This gulch is a vast natural quartz mill and mine. Frost and atmospheric 
action loosen the quartz containing the gold, and throw it down, when the attri- 
tion caused by the current of water pulverizes and washes away the gangue, 
leaving the gold behind. This action, though very slow, extending back through, 
countless ages, produces stupendous results. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 507 

The number of quartz veins found at the head of Alder gulch, known to con- 
tain gold in sufficient amounts to add materially to its products, is not more than 
20, of which the average width is about two feet, and the average assay value 
about $10 per ton, estimating all the vein stuff between the walls. 

Alder gulch has produced more gold than all the others, and probably more 
within the last three years than ever was taken in the same time from any gulch 
of the same extent. It is the opinion of those best qualified to judge that within 
three years from the commencement of mining operations on this gulch 
$30,000,000 were taken from it. This estimate may be exaggerated, but the 
amount taken out was certainly beyond precedent in Montana. 

The mines were discovered in the spring of 1863, and in IS months a popula- 
tion of 10,000 had gatliered together on the banks of the stream, building up 
four considerable cities, to wit : Nevada, Central, Virginia, and Summit City. 
Virginia was built first, and, occupying a central position, always maintained 
its supremacy. It is pleasantly located on the east bank of Alder gulch, and 
contains a number of fine stone buildings, consisting of banks, stores, markets, 
dwellings, &c. It supports two newspapers, and is one of the chief mining and 
commercial centres in Montana. Helena is its only rival. Although the first 
excitement incident to the discover}- of a new and rich mining district has passed 
away, and the mines most easily worked have already been worked over once, 
still tlie annual production is large. By proper working, as will be explained 
hereafter, the future production may be made equal to the past. 

It is the opinion of the best judges, as already stated, that $30,000,000 have 
been taken out of this gulch by the miners.* This cannot bo considered more 

* Such a product from one gulch is beyond all precedent, and must appear a great exag- 
geration. But if well-authenticated facts are examined the amount appears more reasona- 
ble. For a considerable time the population was 10,000 or upwards ; probably 3,.500 work- 
men in the mines. Ten dollars per day lor 220 days in the year would give $26,950,000 for 
three years and a half. Wages were from $10 to $14 per day. Nearly all of the mines were 
Avorked by hired labor and the mines almost universally paid a protit above wages. The 
whole number of claims was between 1,000 and 1,100; at 1,000 each claim must give a 
gross yield of $30,000. 

Montana is the most difficult mining region in the United States in which to estimate the 
yield of the mines. Occupation has a great effect in the formation of opinions on this sub- 
ject. Bankers and expressmen always underestimate ; merchants and successful miners 
generally overestimate; unsuccessful miners underestimate, while ranchmen and farmers 
have no opinions based upon any reliable data on the subject. After the gold is taken from 
the mines it passes through a number of difierent channels, some of which enable us to esti- 
mate the amount produced with tolerable accuracy, whilst in other cases no accurate con- 
clusion can be formed. A portion is sent by express to the mint for coinage. Remittances 
by merchants are generally known to comprise the amount that miners expend for current 
expenses; also, what they send to their families or friends in other places. A small quan- 
tity is used for a circulating medium ; this also comes froui the miners as current expenses. 
A considerable amount is buried in the earth by the miners, but no accurate estimate can be 
formed on this point. Of the amounts carried out of the Territory a portion is taken by the 
miners themselves ; of this no account appears. If a miner goes to California hs takes his 
dust with him, and it is carried to the credit of California or Oregon or Nevada, as the case 
may be. Some is carried to foreign countries, as the British possessions, which join Montana 
on the north ; lastly, a portion is kept in the form of specimens or for jewellers' uses. Thus 
we see it is difficult to arrive at more than an approximation. 

An account of the amount of the goods brought to the Territory furnishes a criterion for 
some .statisticians, who, assuming that the goods were all paid for, add the amount to what 
gold is supposed to be m the country and what was sent out for other purposes, and make 
the sum total the gross production of the Territory. This is a very loose way of getting at 
results. Others take the cost of board per week, say $4 to $8 when wages are from $5 to $9 
per day, and state it thus : as G to 42, so is the amount expended for provisions to the gross 
yield of the mines. Manifestly incorrect, as many are non-producers. Probably the best 
criterion is the price of labor. A mine owner will not long employ men unless he derives a 
profit, and miners will not work lor the same amount that they are sure of making by them- 
selves, tor they think they may " strike it rich " on their own account. Alder gulch is an 
exception, for here is a limited number of claims, and those who have no claim cannot make 
wages by prospecting. 



508 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tlian one-foui'tli of the amount that has come from the veins at the head of the 
gulch. Probably one-tenth would be nearer the amount, especially when we 
consider the extremely divisible nature of that metal and the facility with which 
minute particles are transported by water, a large portion of them being so small 
that it is impossible to collect them by any gold-saving process yet devised. 
Eating the amount already extracted at one-fourth, this would give $120,000,000 
as the actual mineral value of the gulch. At $10 per ton this would require 
12,000,000 tons of quartz to be reduced, provided all the gold in the rock is 
extracted. At 13 feet to the ton a result of 156,000,000 cubic feet of quartz 
must be reduced to produce that amount of gold ; equal to the product of 20 
veins two feet thick, each a mile long and nearly 1,000 feet deep.* 

The general appearance of the country Avarrants the belief that the denuda- 
tion is fully equal to 2,000 feet. Bald mountain, which stands at the head of 
the gulch, rises to the height of between 2,000 and 3,000 feet above the quartz 
veins at the head of mining operations. A great length of time must have 
elapced since this denuding operation commenced, and it is still in action and 
will continue until either man forestalls nature in extracting the gold from the 
veins, or some great upheaval changes the face of the country and causes the 
formation of a new set of watercourses. 

The country rock contains a large amount of mica. After a gentle shower 
the whole face of the earth is colored a fine bronze. 

The first mining district found on the gulch was Fairweather, called after one 
of the discoverers. Above this were Highland, Pine Grove, and Summit, and 
below, Nevada and Junction, their locations extending from Fairweather district 
in the order in which they are named. Each had a code of laws almost identi- 
cal with that of Fairweather. These laws have been subject to trifling changes, 
and generally have been very satisfactory in their operations. 

In the lower districts claims only come to the centre of the gulcji, thus giving 
double the number that were held above ; the same on the banks. Not far from 
1,000 claims are located in this manner, and it is remarkable that nearly every 
claim paid for Avorking when wages were from $10 to $14 per day in gold. From 
many of the best claims $150,000, and from some as much as $200,000, have 
been taken out. 

The usual method of Avorking AA'as to sink a shaft 14 or 15 feet to the bed 
rock and extract the rich gravel, Avhich Avas from one to three feet thick, by 
drifting. In this way a considerable amount of ground Avas left as pillars to 
support the ground above. The bed rock cannot be Avorked Avith the care neces- 
sary to extract all the gold. When gold is A'ery abundant the miners become 
careless and do not Avork closely. This gulch Avas Avorked to a great extent by 
hired men, Avho are not as careful as the OAvners of the mine. In some of the 
deepest claims Avater retarded the Avorking or prevented it entirely. Owing to 
these causes it is probable only about half the gold has been taken out that can 
be obtained by careful and thorough Avorking. The object of each miner Avas 
to get as nuich gold as possible in the shortest time and depart for his home, 
expending only sufficient to defray current expenses. 

The Avater in the gulch nearly sufficed the Avants of the early miners. Up to 
this time onl}^ tAvo small and inexpensive ditches have been constructed. It is 
proposed to bring Avatcr from the Jefferson or the Stinking Water rivers. From 
the Jefferson a large amount could l)e brought in at the head of the gulch, but the 
cost Avould be great. From the Stinking Water the cost Avould be less, but the 
Avater could not reach the head of the gulch by tAvo or three miles, and the sup- 
ply Avould be insufficient. 

Near the upper part of the gulch small flumes are in course of consiructiou. 

* This, however, is a very unreliable mode of calculation. — J. R. B 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 509 

They are disconnected and too short to be efficient. To work in the most eco- 
nomical and thorough manner requires a large flume from the mouth of the gulch 
up to the head, with a large amount of water. 

The greatest obstacle to placer mining in Montana is the want of fall or 
descent, and this is particularly the case in Alder gulch. To overcome this dif- 
ficulty and keep the works in running order it will be necessary to have the flume 
double at certain points, with a reservoir in each, so that when one reservoir is 
filled with sand and gravel, the water can be turned into the other flume while the 
first reservoir is emptied. This can be done by a steam paddy or other machin- 
ery. By having places for the sand to settle and be removed at two or three 
points along the flume, it can be kept in ninning order. 

By such a flume system and the use of hydraulics the gulch can be thoroughly 
worked, and its futm-e production made at least equal to its past. This method 
of mining requires capital. The miners generally are employed by an individ- 
ual or company and the profits divided amongst few. The last working usually 
occupies about twice the length of time occupied by the first. 

Summit Citt. — Summit City is substantially built of logs, but in building 
this to^vn the streets appear to have been forgotten at first and })ut in afterwards. 
In case of fire the whole town would burn with as much facility as a single 
Louse. It seems strange, after so many mining towns havo'been utterly destroyed 
by fire, that in laying out a new one, where the ground costs nothing, the streets 
should not be left sufficiently wide to form a barrier to the progress of fire, as 
well as a means of communication. With a sufficient Avidth, a fire could be con- 
fined to one square. 

The rich and extensive quartz veins in this vicinity will probably render Sum- 
mit City pennanently prosperous. 

Nevada. — After Virginia, Nevada was the largest town on Alder gulch. At 
present it shows signs of decay. In the winter the people of the inhabited parts 
of the town make use of the uninhabited houses for firewood. If a bed-rock 
flume is put in the gulch, Nevada will probably regain in some degree its former 
life and activity. 

Junction City and Central City were also at one time lively little towns. 
Now they are more remarkable for quietness than for the commotion of business. 

Most of the other gulches in this vicinity have small collections of houses, 
hardly sufficient to justify the name of towns. 

The range of mountains called Virginia is not as high as the mountains around 
the head of Big Hole ; still they are sufficiently high to retain snow the greater 
part of the year. This range abounds in springs and streams of running water, 
and forests of pine and fir in the ravines and canons. 

Valley of the Stinking Water. — The valley of the Stinking Water is 
15 or 20 miles long and 5 or 6 broad, with some good farming and grazing land, 
but generally it is not very fertile. At the confluence of the Big Hole and the 
Beaver Hefwl is a large valley very similar to the valley of the Stinking Water. 
By a proper system of inigation both of these valleys could be rendered avail- 
able for agricultural purposes. Want of timber is one of the most serious incon- 
veniences. 

Among the old mountaineers this fork of the Missouri was known as the Beaver 
Head, and took its name from a point of rocks on its noilh bank, about 15 miles 
above the mouth of the Big Hole, called by the Indians Beavei-'s Head, which 
it closely resembles when viewed from a point near the mouth of the Stinking 
Water. 

Gallatin Valley. — The section of country di-ained by the Madison, Galla- 
tin, and the Missom-i down to its junction with the Dearborn river, is about 175 
miles long and 80 miles wide. In this district of country lies the valley of Three 
Forks and Gallatin, about 40 miles long and 12 wide, which may be considered 



510 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tlie garden of Montana. The season is from four to six weeks earlier than in 
the valley of the Big Hole, and the climate is as good as that of Utah, while in 
fertility the soil is unsurpassed. Here farming is on a large scale, and in the 
course of a year or two the valley will supply the Territory with wheat and 
barley, as it now does with potatoes and vegetable^. 

Other Valleys and Placees. — North and south, Boulder and Wallace 
creeks empty into the Missouri from the Avest, and have some good but not very 
rich placer mines ; also some quartz veins, containing gold, silver, lead, and cop- 
per; but they are not attracting much attention at present. 

Further down comes in the Prickly Pear. On this stream and its branches are 
some excellent mines. The towns of Montana, Jefferson and Beaver cities are 
situated on this stream. Placer and quartz mines exist here, but are doing but 
little at present. 

The most productive gulch in this part of Montana is Last Chance, which is 
formed by the junction of Oro Pino, Grizzly, and Diy gulches, and empties into 
the Prickly Pear not far above its mouth. These gulches have been very rich; 
also Nelson's gulch, which empties into Ten-mile creek. On this creek are 
numerous quartz veins, containing gold, silver, copper, &c., not now much worked. 

Helena. — Helena, the largest town in the Territory, is situated on both sides 
of Last Chance gulch, principally on the south side, and extends over an elevated 
bar to Dry gulch, a distance of three-quarters of a mile. It is well and regu- 
larly laid out for a mining town, containing a number of fire-proof stone build- 
ings. Many of the wooden buildings have fire-proof safes attached to them, or 
an outside cellar with iire-proof walls and door, and are covered with heavy dirt 
roofs. Their construction is not costly, and in combustible mining towns they 
do good service in preserving valuable goods from fire. 

Helena contains an active population of miners, merchants, physicians, law- 
yers, bankers, and that miscellaneous crowd always found in the best class of 
mining towns. Residents claim that its population numbers from 7,000 to 8,000 ; 
this is probably an exaggeration. As a commercial centre it has stage lines 
connecting it with Virginia, Diamond City, New York Bar, Fort Benton, and 
Blackfoot City. Nearly all supplies for the south pass through it on their way 
from Fort Benton. 

The most productive gold-bearing quartz veins in Montana, as well as silver 
and copper mines, (the latter unworked,) are in this vicinity. The placers are 
extensive, and well supplied with water by a system of large and costly ditches. 
On the heads of Grizzly and Oro Fino gulches the mountains are covered with 
pines and fir, and along the Prickly Pear cottonwood is abundant. 

The valley of the Prickly Pear and Ten-mile creek contains a considerable 
amount of good farming land and a number of farms under cultivation, and the 
surrounding hills afford good pasturage. This valley is nearly circular in form 
and 15 miles in diameter. 

Helena is located on the western side, close under the foot of the moitntains. 
A more picturesque or beautiful situation for a town can scarcely be imagined, 
A broad vista stretches away to the east, beyond the ]\Iissouri river. 

Bar Mining. — From the mouth of the Stinking Water down to the Great 
Falls all the bars on the Missouri river contain gold. These bars will probably 
be among the most lasting placers in the Territory. Up to the present time 
they have remained unworked, except El Dorado bar, upon which operations 
have already been commenced, and it is reported with favorable results. Along 
the Missouri there is some good farming and grazing land, and generally the 
hills in the vicinity contain timber. 

Confederate, New York, and a number of other gold-producing gulches come 
in from the east, just above the mouth of Prickly Pear, 

Confederate Gulch. — Of these, Confederate is the richest; after Alder and 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 511 

Last Chance it is probably the richest in Montana. It has produced largely since 
1865, though its product has not been so great this year as formerly. Diamond 
City spnmg up on this gulch, but has been nearly abandoned by the washings, 
from the hydraulics in the rear of the town. 

The mountains around the head of Confederate gulch are high, and contain 
pine and tir timber ; also numerous streams. Some very expensive ditches are 
in course of construction for supplying the mines with water. ' 

Estimated yield of Montana. 

1862 $500,000 

1863 8,000,000 

1864 13,000,000 

1865 14.500,000 

3866 16,500,000 

1867 12,000,000 

64, 500, 000 



512 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



IDAHO. 



SECTION I. 

AREA AND POPULATION— MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, WATERFALLS, 
AND BOILING SPRINGS— VEGETATION— GEOLOGICAL FEATURES— TOWNS 
AND MINING CAMPS. 

AiiEA AND Population. — In form, this Ten-itory is almost a riglit-angled 
triangle. Its base, about 350 miles long on the south, rests on Nevada and ' 
Utah, with a perpendicular of about 420 miles, separating it from Oregon and 
Washington Territory on the west. Its northern point touches the British pos- 
sessions, and its hypothenuse on the northeast divides it from the Territories of 
Montana and Dakota. Its area is about 90,000 square miles,* but inasmuch as 
its nortlieastern boundary, on the crests of the Bitter Root and Rocky mountams, 
has never been meandered, this estimate is only an approximation. Its popula- 
tion is about 20,000 at this time. As estimated by the territorial assessor it was 
somewhat larger in 1866, viz : 

I Tahlc showing the principal cities and toivns of Idaho Territorij^ the county in 
which, each is located, the estimated popidation September, 1866, and the distance 
. of each from Boise City, the territorial capital. 



Counties. 


Name of town. 


a g" 


Miles from Boise 

City. 


Counties. 


Name of town. 


p. ex; 

O t-l 

C . 
>> 

II 


"3 


Ada 


Boise City 


2,050 
675 

i,:oo 

5,800 

1,700 

1,000 

600 

■ 150 

75 

1,100 

•290 


Nez Perce . . 

Do 

Oneida 

Do 

Do 

Owyhee 

Do 

Do 

Shoshoue. .. 
Do 

Total 


Elk City 


4,50 

O50 

300 

425 

75 

400 

1,000 

3,175 

350 

300 


350 N. 


100 N. E. 
45 N. 
36 N. E. 

55 N. E. 
40 N. 

250 N. 
230 N. 
260 N. 
230 N. 
330 N. 




350 N. 


Boise 

Do 

Do 


Centerville 

Idaho City and 

Buena Vista Bar. 

Pioneer City... .... 




450 E. 


Malade City 

Soda Springs 


348 E. 

450 E. 

72 S. 


Do 


Ruby City 


70S. 






Silver City 


70S. 


Do 


Miller's Camp 

State Creek 

Warren's Diggings. 
Clearwater Station. 


450 N. 


Do 

Do 


Pierce City 


450 N. 


21, 725 













Mountains. — The principal mountains are the Rocky, Bitter Root, and Bear 
mountains on the cast. The upheaval of these ranges has tilted the whole Terri- 
tory to the west at a greater angle than that of any other State or Territory of the 
Pacific slope. In the south, the Owyhee is the principal range, though properly 
it is an isolated spur rather than a range. This region of country contains one 
of the principal mining districts in the Territory. The Bear and Rocky moun- 
tains are different branches of the same range, and have the same general char- 
acter. The name "Rocky-mountains" is a misnomer. Instead of being rough 
aiid rocky, they appear to be old, with their highest peaks abraded, worn down, 
covered with soil, supporting timber and grass, full of low passes, suitable for 
wagon or railroads, and embracing many fine agricultural valleys. The Bitter 
Root is a broad, lofty range, continuous and unbroken, with a few elevated 
j^asses, which arc closed in winter. It abounds in rugged spurs, deep gorges, 
and trentendous canons, where the Salmon river runs in a continuous torrent. 

* The Commissioner of the General Land Office estinaates the area at 90,932 ; number of 
acres, 369,529,600. 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 513 

The Boise range is a spur or lateral offshoot of the Bitter Hoot. They are well 
covered with pine and iir, with good pasturage in the foot-hills and farming lands 
in the small vallej-s. The height of this range is 8,000 or 10,000 feet, with 
some peaks that attain an altitude of near 12,000 feet. 

Rivers. — The Snake river and its branches drain the whole Tenitory, except 
a portion of about 120 miles long and 45 wide in the extreme northern part, 
which is drained by Clark's fork of the Columbia and its branches, and an irreg- 
ularly-shaped portion in the southeastern corner, which is drained by Green and 
Bear rivers. Bear river falls into Salt lake, and Green river empties into the 
Colorado. This portion of the Territory has some farming and a large amount 
of good grazing lands, and is very scantily supplied with wood. No mines have 
been discovered in it. The Mormon settlements on Bear river extend for a short 
distance into Idaho along the stage route, but otherwise this portion of the Ter- 
ritory is uninhabited. The princi^Dal branches of the Snake river in Idaho are 
the Clearwater, Salmon, Payette, Boise, and many small rivers and creeks, 
which uniting form a large river, with many falls and rajiids and a cun'ent of 
great swiftness, Avhich, when high, carries away bridges and boats and renders 
crossing it dangerous. It is navigable to Lewiston. A steamer has beeii 
recently built near Fort Boise, but is not running at present, the swiftness of the 
cuiTent rendering navigation always difficult and sometimes dangerous. Among 
the falls on this river, one of the most noted is the American, about 25 miles 
below Fort Hall, Avhich has a perpendicular descent of 60 or 70 feet,, but is not 
remarkable for the grandeur of the surrounding scenery. 

Shoshoxe Falls. — The Shoshone falls are situated about seven miles from 
Desert station, on the stage road from Salt Lake City to Boise Cit}-. The river 
for many miles, both above and below, passes through a volcanic valley. It 
has cut a perpendicular canon through the layers of lava to the depth of about 
1,000 feet. The canon is generally about half a mile wide. At the point where 
the falls are located it is nearly a mile wide. Viewed from below it appears cir- 
cular, like a vast amphitheatre, with the falls in the centre. The different layers 
of lava resemble seats in tiers ranged one above another to a height of 700 feet 
above the head of the falls. In the narrowest part the water is 200 or 300 yards 
wide. About 400 yards abov'e the main falls are five islands, at nearly equal 
intervals across the river, dividing the stream into six jiarts. As the water passes 
between the islands it is precipitated 25 or 30 feet. The falls differ essentially 
from each other in form, affording great variety. Below the islands the water 
imites and passes in an unbroken sheet over the great iall ; the descent is about 
200 feet. The semicircle at the head of the falls is apparently perfect, and the 
leap as clear as that of Niagara. Enormous clouds of mist and spray arise, vari- 
egated with rainbows. At the foot are rushing showers of spray, from under 
which the water, beaten into foam, dashes furiously away. Occasionally can be 
seen through the flying mists the immense sheet of water standing out in bold 
relief from the rocks, showing that with proper appliances it is practicable to go 
behind, as at Niagara. A fev/ hundred yards fmther down the water swings 
slowly around in a huge whirlpool and then disappears in the black canon below. 
The delicate prismatic colors of the rainbow and the graceful evanescent forms 
of the mist contrast strangely with the iron-black surface, hard outlines, and 
awful forms of the overhanging basalt. The sound of the rushing waters resem- 
bles that of an orchestra, the small falls giving the high notes and the great falls 
the bass, producing a combination not possible to obtain from a single undivided 
current. At Rock Creek station, 20 miles distant, it can be heard distinctly — 
not continuously, but at intervals, like the surf. When the notes strike in unison 
they can be heard at a greater distance. In the winter this mist rises like the 
smoke from a volcano. A few diminutive pines grow among the rocky declivi- 
ties of the canon. The plain produces only sage brush. The hostility of the 
33 



514 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Indians renders a visit to this interesting region somewliat hazardous, unless witli 
a party of six or eight men, well armed and on the alert. 

Salmox Falls. — The Salmon falls, about 45 miles below the Shoshone, are 
some 20 feet in height, and are remarkable as forming an impassable bariier to 
the progress of the salmon. Here is a famous Indian fishery. 

Valley OF THE Sxake. — The valley of the Snake is a huge crescent-shaped 
basin, about 500 miles long and 250 at its greatest breadth. The whole interior 
is a bed of volcanic rocks, in which the rivers have cut deep canons. The sur- 
rounding foot-hills are generally covered W'ith bunch grass, aftording excellent 
pasturage. Along the streams are many valley's, containing tracts of land well 
adapted to agriculture. Frequently these valleys extend through the basin to 
the Snake river, as the Boise, wdiich is well cultivated, and contains many farms 
in a state of improvement that would do credit to older countries. But the greater 
portion of the ])asin is a desert waste of sand, producing nothing but sage brush 
and a very limited amount of bunch grass, even in the most favored localities. 
The Indian name for the river is ^'PohogAva," or " Sage Brush river," the most 
appropriate that could })0 imagined. 

Sage Brush. — This shrub in general appearance resembles the cultivated 
sage, having the same form and color, flower, leaf, and branch; its aroma being 
similar but stronger and not so agreeable. Its average height is about three 
feet; sometimes it attains the height of five feet, with a diameter of four or five 
inches. The sage is strictly the shrub of the desert. From the eastern foot- 
hills of the Rocky mountains to the Pacific ocean, and from Mexico to the 
British possessions, it occupies nearly all lands too poor and dr}^ to support any 
other vegetation. It burns even when green, with a quick bright flame, and in 
many extensive districts is the sole fuel of emigrants, miners and prospectors. 
In tlie Slate Range district, in the southern part of California, it was used suc- 
cessfully as fuel in generating steam for a quartz-mill. The cost of gathering 
and using it is about the same as that of wood in a moderately wooded district. 
Where Indian labor is available it is much cheaper. A smaller variety called 
the white sage is valuable for grazing in the winter. Cattle thrive on it, but it 
imparts a peculiar though not a disagreeable flavor to beef. 

BoiSK Basix. — In some parts of the Boise basin the sand is loose, and the wind 
drifting it over the plains obliterates all traces of vegetation. Whirlwinds often 
raise it to great height, and when one of these dust storms passes a train of men 
and animals, the air is darkened, and breathing is rendered difficult until the 
storm is over. In the northeastern part of the basin, on the south side of Clark's 
Fork, are three lone mountains called the Three Tetons; they rise ragged and 
sharp in their outlines, and form a notable landmark for travellers. North of Fort 
Hall are three similar peaks called the Three Buttes, visible for a great distance. 
The highest, called Cedar Butte, is near where Lewis's Fork empties into the 
Snake. It is scantily covered with scrub cedars, and, like the others, is undoubt- 
edly of vocanic origin. When the whole country is densely populated the Snake 
river will be turned out of its bed, and used to irrigate this basin. In that way 
it can be rendered productive. If this river and its tributaries should thus be 
directed, navigation would sustain but little loss, while agriculture would be 
gTcatly benefited. All the streams emptying into the Snake some distance 
below the Shoshone falls sink before they reach the river, and passing under the 
strata of lava, come out on the sides of the Snake canon. Several of them shoot 
out at such a height as to form beautiful cascades ; some at perpendicular leaps, 
others in a succession of small falls; some combine falls and rapids, and assume 
the most beautiful forms of falling water imaginable. The white spray and 
,foam strikingly contrast with the black precipitous walls down which the rushing 
torrent plunges into the river below. In one case a river ran over the surface 
.until it had worn into the rock a canon about a half mile lono-. A beautiful basin 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 515 

or small lake still remains where tlie water formerly passed over. In process 
of time it formed an underground channel, and now comes out at the foot of the 
rock where the falls once existed. It is perfectly clear, and although the depth 
is great, the trout M'ith which it is crowded can be distinctly seen at the bottom. 
Along the stream on each side of the canon is a narrow belt of fine grass and 
willows, entirely hidden from view, until the spectator stands on its banks. The 
contrast between the beautiful verdure here and the awful desolation of the 
sun-ounding plain is very striking. All over the vast volcanic wastes of the 
plain are upheaved masses of lava, with clefts or fissiu-es in them, caused by the 
cooling of the liquid rock. These elevations are generally of an oval sliape, 
with a cleft in the centre extending longitudinally from the summit to the base. 
Others have two lines of fractm'es nearly at right angles. They sometimes form 
ridges exceedingly tortuous in their course, occasionally twisted into a circle. 
Their usual height is from 6 to 12 feet. These masses of rock appear almost 
to defy the elements. In many places the corrugations formed on the sm-face, 
when the lava was cooling, appear as distinctly as if they were formed yesterday. 
Along the edges of the deposit the lava in some places overlies granite, in others 
slate and limestone. The action of the elements has worn these strata away, 
leaving the lava apparently undecomposed, and elevated above the rocks that 
once held it in bounds. A great difference is found in the power of different 
rocks to resit the action of the elements. Thus, slate when soft and splinty is 
less capable of resistance than limestone, and this rock is less enduring than the 
coarsest forms of granite. The hard compact granite resists much longer than 
the softer varieties ; but all much less than the basaltic lava in this valley. The 
same is observed in almost all canons where there has been a lava flow, as in 
Port Noeaf and in Moor's creek. These facts aflFord material for a time ratio. 
If the resisting power of basalt is represented by 100, and hard granite 90, soft 
granite 75, limestone 50, soft slate 40, gravel 5, and ordinary soil 1, or if we adopt 
any other ratio of a similar kind found to be in accordance with observation, 
we have a basis by which a calculation can be made with approximate accuracy. 
Around the base of the Boise mountains there are indications of upheaval to 
a certain extent since the bed of lava was formed. The strata are all tilted from 
the mountains, both on the eastern and western sides, but it is most noticeable on 
the eastern side. At the base of the Owyhee mountains the proofs of upheaval 
are clear. Since the lava was formed, many beds of regular columnar basalt 
are displaced, and the columns stand at different angles, showing unmistakably 
the effects of more recent convulsion. On Clover creek, a small tributary of 
Snake river, about 40 miles below the mouth of the Malade, are three volcanic 
bridges within a third of a mile of each other. The stage road passes over them 
in the wet seasons. One of these natural bridges is over a dry ravine, whiqh 
runs into the creek. There is an island at the- point where the stream is bridged. 
The first bridge is from the shore to the island, the next fi-om the island to the 
other side, and the thu-d over the dry ravine. Their height varies from three to 
seven feet; the arches span from 10 to 50 feet, with lengths from 100 to 200 feet. 
It is probable the craters or source whence this vast bed of lava flowed must be 
near the upper end of the valley, as it has a regular descent to the westward. 
But this is not certain, for the inclination may be the effect of the upheaval of 
the Rocky mountains, which may still be going on. It is highly probable these 
mountains had nearly their present altitude before this vast eruption of lava took 
place ; after that then- upward movement may have continued, which would account 
for the singularity of its declination to the west. About 10 miles west from the 
bridges over the Malade on the stage route from Salt lake to Boise City, there 
is a cu'cular depression in the plain about three-fourths of a mile in diameter. 
In the winter this is filled with water, forming a shallow lake. The lava around 
this depression is remarkably well preserved, and all the wrinkles or corruga- 
tions caused by the moving and cooling of the smface are as distinct as though 



516 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tliey were very recently formed. By observing these foldings the direction in 
which the lava flowed can be determined. It is apparent in this case that the 
flow was in every direction from the depression, proving that this was one of the 
craters which once poured its fiery flood over the plain. When the supply from 
below was exhausted the mouth of the crater sank back, leaving the depression 
now nearly lilled with alluvial deposits. A close examination of the plain would 
undoubtedly lead to the discovery of many similar openings, and by a careful obser- 
vation of the relative elevations on the eastern and western sides of these craters, 
it could be demonstrated Avhether the level of the country has been affected by 
upheavals since the lava bed was formed. At the crater examined, the lava on the 
eastern side appeared to have run up hill, while on the west the declination 
seemed unchanged. The Snake river has cut a vast canon through this plain, 
varying in depth from 100 to 1,000 feet. The difierent strata of the rock can 
be distinctly observed in this canon. The length of time requked by the river 
to wear away such an enormous fissure must have been great, although the 
descent of the water is rapid. The Shoshone Falls probably cut out the canon 
below it to the Salmon Falls, a distance of over 40 miles. No observations 
have been made to determine the rate at which the rock is worn away ; but from 
its indestructible nature it must be slow. The Eoise basin divides the mining 
portions of the Territory into two parts ; one south and one north. The southern 
or Owyhee mines are in the Owyhee mountains, and do not cover near the extent 
of the northern portion, which embraces the Boise, Lemhi, Salmon river, and 
Oro Fino mines. 

Tow^NS. — Boise City is situated on the east side of the Boise river, at the head 
of the fertile valley of the same name. It has a beautiful location, is well laid 
out, and contains many fine buildings. Nearly all the passengers and supplies 
for Boise Basin have to pass through it; hence it is a great staging centre. 
Situated between the Owyhee and Boise mines, it will long be the commercial 
centre of the southern part of the Territory. The climate is milder than in the 
mines, and resembles that of Utah. Boise Basin is about 30 miles northeast 
from I3oise City. Its length is from 15 to 18 miles, and breadth from 6 to 8. 
It contains a number of towns and many mining districts, and is the most popu- 
lous part of the Territory. The present population is estimated to be about 
10,000. Idaho City, the largest town, was recently burnt; but has been partially 
rebuilt. It contains probably 4,000 inhabitants. Central City, Placerville, and 
Pioneer are well-built mining towns, containing about 1,000 inhabitants each. 
Salmon river has been the scene of two wild mining excitements. One in 1862, 
at Florence, on Meadow creek, where 8,000 or 9,000 miners collected — to leave 
in as short time as they assembled. The town contains at present about 200 
persons. The other excitement was at Lemhi this summer, where 7,000 to 8,000 
miners collected — to scatter as suddenly, except some 800 or 900 who had claims, 
or who could not get away. The valley of the Clearwater is a large and fertile 
agricultural valley, the home of the Nez Perces Indians. Lewistown, Oro 
Fino, and Elk City were once flourishing places ; but now contain only a small 
population. Lewiston, from its situation at the confluence of the Clearwater 
and Snake rivers, the head of navigation, must in time become a place of import- 
ance. Warren's Diggings have a considerable mining population. 

The portion of the Territory drained by Clark's Fork of the Columbia has a 
milder climate than is found farther south, and coiresponds to the Yocko and 
Bitter Boot valleys in Montana. 

There are three lakes of considerable size in Idaho, the Coeur d' Aline, about 
■24 miles long, and 2 or 3 wide, very irregular in form; the Pen d'Oreille, a cres- 
cent-shaped lake, about 30 miles long, and 5 broad ; and the Boatman about the 
same length, and 6 miles wide. The Pen d'Oreille and Clark's Fork are practi- 
cable for steamers for SO miles. 

The discovery of the Owyhee mines led to the building of Boonville, Euby, 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 517 

and Silver cities. Boortvillc was built first, and depended on placer mines ; it is 
now nearly deserted. Ruby City was both a placer and vein mining town ; at 
present it is supported by a few placer and quartz mills, neither increasing' nor 
diminishing perceptibty in jDopulation. Silver City is the largest town in Owyhee. 
It is a picturesque village, neatly packed away among the mountains, in Jordan's 
caiion, with mines, quartz mills, hotels, stores, dwellings, school-houses, which 
serve for churches on Sundays, and an active mining population, and will long 
be a mining town of importance. 



r 



SECTION II. 
MmES.— DISTRICTS AND SYSTEMS OF MINING. 



The mines of Idaho occur in isolated groups separated by long tracts appar- 
ently barren in the precious metals. They may be divided into fom- dis- 
tricts. On the north Oro Fino and Elk City ; then east and west, the Salmon 
river, the Boise basin, and Rocky bar, and in the south the Owyhee minesTl Gold 
was discovered in this Territory on the banks of the P^ d'Oreille river, ni 1852, 
by a Trench Canadian, but not in paying quantities, vin 1860, a company of 
prospectors discovered the Oro Fino mines, and during that winter 25 men 
remained there. The mines at Elk City were soon after discovered. In the 
spring of 1861 1,500 or 2,000 men came to work them. Oro Fino creek has 
paid in spots for a distance of 20 miles ; Rhodes creek and Canal gulch also 
proved to be good localijties, and although no remarkably rich placers were found 
in 1861-62 the mines paid very fairly. .J^^ince then the discovery of Boise basin, 
Owyhee, and Montana have drawn the miners from this district. Except at 
Wassen's diggings, very little is done in this part of the country at present. 
When wages become cheaper, miners may rework these mines to advantage.* 

*Governor D. W. Ballard, in his annual message to the territorial legislature of 1886-'67, 
says: 

" For the first two years after the settlement of our Territory, Idaho was looked upon only 
as a theatre for speculation and as a place for a temporary residence, where, by enduring the 
necessary toil and privations, rapid fortunes might be acquired. The Territory was first 
peopled by those whose object was the acquirement of a speedy fortune, and this being done 
to return either to the Pacific or Atlantic States ; but this feeling is rapidly subsiding, and the 
abundant success attending both mining and agricultural pursuits during the past year is fast 
removing the prejudices that have formerly existed against Idaho as a location for permanent 
residence. 

" The most reliable information on the subject establishes the fact that the yield of precious 
metals, in the aggregate, for the past year exceeds that of any preceding year. This, in con- 
nection with the fact that operations in gold and silver quartz, our principal source of mine- 
ral wealth, are as yet only in embryo, is a source of gratification to every one concerned in 
the future prosperity of the Territory. The ledges already opened and worked uniformly 
present indications of increasing richness ; in not a single instance have there been indica- 
tions of depreciation in the deposits of mineral wealth. Only a small proportion of the gold 
and silver bearing quartz ledges already discovered and known to be rich, some of them 
almost fabulously so, are as yet being worked. From observations made during the past 
summer by intelligent and scientific gentlemen, the conclusion is drawn that these ledges, 
which have yielded so abundantly diiring the present year, will next year produce still greater 
profits, while many more will be successfully opened, and their yield be found equally abun- 
dant. 

' 'Agricultural pursuits, for two years almost totally neglected, have been prosecuted during 
the past year with the most gratifying results. Many hundreds of acres in the Boise valley 
and other localities have been brought under cultivation, and it is cheering to learn that the 
yield per acre, of both cereals and vegetables, will compare favorably with the yield of any 
other locality on the Pacific coast. The day is not far distant when but little, if any, of the 
productions raised on the Pacific coast will be brought over the Blue mountains for the sup- 
port of the people of Idaho Territory. Arrangements for more extended operations in both 
mining and agricultural pursuits are already in progress for the ensuing year. The amount 
of land cultivated this year will doubtless be more than doubled next, and it is safe to esti- 
mate that equal success will attend the mining interests of the country. In connection with 



518 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

f 

^Salmon River. — In the fall of 1861 some prospectors discovered tlie mines 

at Florence, at the head of Meadow creelc, a small northern tributarj^ of Salmon 
river. The situation was remarkable. The deposits of gold were in a rnarsh 
on the top of a mountain, in the centre of a basin called Meadow creek. This 
singular depression is nearly circular, about 12 miles in diameter, and surrounded 
by high mountains, except an opening to the south. The mountain on which the 
mines are situated is granite, nearly circular at its base, rising from 500 to 1,000 
feet, and about four miles across. From its top a number of flat, marshy ravines 
ramify in every direction. They are from 20 to 150 yards wide, and filled with 
peat and muck to depths of 2 to 20 feet. Under this was a stratum of rough 
unwashed gravel, which had evidently never been much moved. This contained 
the gold and was very rich, the best parts yielding a dollar to a panful of gravel. 
Very little black sand was visible. A careful search failed to result in the dis- 
covery of any quartz or other vein at the head of the richest ravines. About 
1,000 claims were located on this mountain, and paid largely for a short time. 
Suddenly, however, they gave out, and no more gold was found. On Meadow 
creek the placers were more enduring. On some of the bars of Salmon river fair 
wages were made by the miners, at the lowest stages of water for several years, 
but, unless some discoveries should be made hereafter, mining will probably never 
pay permanently in this part of the Territory. , 

A variety of pine grows in this region from sis to eight inches in diameter at 
the ground, with a height of 60 to 70 feet. So dense is the growth that it is diffi- 
cult for a horse to pass between the trees, which are nearly of the same height, and 
present the appearance of a field of grain. They are remarkably straight and 
excellent for building houses or timbering mines. The Avinter of 1861 was very 
severe in Florence. For several months all supplies were brought fi'om the 
Mountain Jlouse, a distance of 11 miles, on the backs of men who travelled on 
snowshoes.J 

Lemhi. — Last fall some mines were found on branches of Salmon river, not far 
from Fort Lemhi. Exaggerated reports of their richness caused quite an excite- 
ment. The probability is the reports were circulated for the purpose of selling 
claims. It is said one claim olfered for sale prospected well in the snow above the 
earth. Accounts are conflicting as to the value of these discoveries, but all agree that 
there are some half-dozen claims on each of four or five gulches which will pay 
well. Some assert that these are allj others maintain that Lemhi abounds in 
extensive placers which will yield $5 per day to the hand, though it is generally 
conceded that they will not justify working at present, except in a few of the 
gulches. 

Boise Basin is a very rich placer district, well timbered with forests of pine, 
and well supplied with water. Mining is in a prosperous condition here j the 
flumes are substantially built, and the hydraulics of the most approved construc- 
tion. These mines were discovered in August, 1862, by a party from Walla- 
Walla, under the direction of a man named Grimes, on a branch of Moore's creek, 

the agricultural interests of the Territory, it is not uninteresting to know that an enterprising 
farmer of Boise valley, during the past summer, cultivated sorghum with the most success- 
ful results. 

" While the two principal pursuits of our Territory, mining and agriculture, have thus been 
prosecuted with efficient energy and success, all other industrial pursuits consequent upon 
them liavc been correspondingly remunerative, and it is believed that there are more settled 
families, more competent business men, more active and worthy M'orking men, such as con- 
stitute the bone and sinew of every country, now in our midst who look upon Idaho as their 
future home than there ever have laeen at any previous period. 

"The idea of extravagant speculation is giving way to patient toil and well-regulated econ- 
omy, and, judging the future by the past, this healthier sentiment on the part of the people 
will gradually increase until Idaho will abound in all the fixtures and elements of a well- 
established and properly organized community. As the resources of the country arc more 
and more developed, other branches of industry, hitherto dormant, will doubtless be thrown 
open for the active and energetic labor of the country. All things considered, the future of 
Idaho may now be looked upon with more confidence than at any former period of her history. " 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 519 

not far from Centreville.* In a few clays after the discovery Grimes was killed 
by the Indians ; his party retreated to Walla- Walla, where they procured rc-en- 
forcements, and, returning-, built a fort about four miles above Centreville. There 
they remained through the winter. Soon gold was discovered on Granite creek, 
Elk creek, and Moore's creek, the outlet to the water of the basin. The mines 
proving extensive and the gold evenly distributed, a great number of claims were 
speedily located, and they paid well. For the first j'ear or two the miners did a 
good business. Timber and water being abundant, they were enabled to work 
their claims to the greatest advantage. The country rock is granite, and the 
gravel containing the gold has but little quartz, sand or boulders in it. Gen- 
erally the quartz veins in the basin are soft ; when detached and washed down 
a short distance in the stream, the quartz is finely pulverized and the gold liber- 
ated. In mills these ores are crushed with great facility. A large portion of 
the soil is stained red by oxide of iron, and contains a small amount of gold. 
The beds of the creeks and gulches have yielded well, and have, in some instances, 
been worked over as many as four times. Many of the streams have ancient 
beds of gravel, doubtless rich, below the present beds. On the sides and tops 
of the adjacent hills are masses of clay and gravel that yield handsomely. In 
souie instances, as at Placerville, the miners come to a bed of clay, which has 

*The following particulars relative to the discovery of the Boise and other rich mines in 
Idaho Territory are derived from an article in the Idaho Times : 

"But little was known of the existing wealth of southern Idaho until midsummer of 1862. 
Even Tim. Goodell, the old pioneer trapper of Snake river and its tributaries, who has, per- 
haps, travelled every trail in what is now known as Boise, Alturas, and Owyhee counties, was 
entirely ignorant of the existence of our mineral wealth until 1862, when the first prospecting 
party of six found their way up the canons of INIoore's and Grimes's creeks. When prospecting 
at a point about six miles above the place now known as Pioneer City, they were attacked by 
Indians, and one of their number (Grimes) instantly killed. After hastily burying his remains 
they left the country, and reached Walla-Walla in the month of August. No time was lost ia 
forming a company of 52 men to return with them and more thoroughly prospect the country. 
Many of those early pioneers are still with us ; among them we might mention the names of 
J. M Moore, John Christie, George J. Gilbert, Mr. Fogus, James Koache, Green and Benja- 
min White, R. C. Combs, F. Giberson, William Arts, J. B. Pierce, and J. F. Guiseburry. 
The party arrived at the forks of Grimes's creek, on the site now known as Pioneer City, 
about the 10th of October, and as soon as a substantial fort and corral for their horses could 
be built, a portion of the company returned to the Columbia river for winter's supplies, and 
the remainder built cabins and prospected during their absence unmolested by Indians. 
Another company arrived on this creek about the 15th of November, and located mines near 
the site of Centreville. Messrs. Muford, Standifer, Callaway, and Thatcher were with this 
party. The latter two gentlemen still reside in that place. A great deal of fault was found 
with the action of the first party in the number and size of the claims located, hence the origi- 
nation of the name of Hog 'em for that camp. One very bright morning about the last of 
October several of the Hog 'em boys took a stroll over the divide between Grimes's and Elk 
creeks, and found good prospects on the bar on which Idaho City now stands. Returning 
to their camps in great haste, and not wishing to divulge the secret, they reported having 
beat a hasty retreat from some huge bears. On the next day they returned, with several others 
of their party who appreciated the bear story, and insisted on the naming of the gulch at 
the upper end of Main street Bear run, by which name it is still known. The mines on Granite 
creek were discovered about the 1st of December by the Centreville party, who also located 
the site of Placerville, which contained about six cabins partly completed on the 14th day of 
that month. 

" In the month of June, 1863, several miners found their way unto the north fork of Boise 
river, nov/ known as Rocky Bar, in Alturas county. The first ledges discovered in this camp 
were the Ada Elmore, Idaho, and New York, which class among the best ledges in that camp. 

' ' Owyhee was discovered in the following fall. But little could be said to the public respect- 
ing this camp.as its history is spread wide and far, and its exports of bullion amount to hundreds 
of thousands of dollars monthly. The mining camps of Yuba and Banner districts contain a 
great number of good ledges. Capital to develop the mines and mills to crush the ore is all that 
is required to class them among the first of our numerous mining camps. 

"The mines of southern Idaho were more speedily populated and developed than perhaps 
any other mining country ever discovered on the Pacific coast. One year from the time the 
first party arrived, 5,500 votes were polled within the limits of Idaho. Since that time ifc 
has increased and decreased as is usually the case, on account of the fluctuation of our popu- 
lation." * 



520 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

been mistalvcn for the bed-rock. On sinking a sliaft tbrongli it a ricli stratum 
of gravel is fonnd. Ditches from a mile to seven miles in length have been con- 
strncted in the basin ; their capacity varying from 300 to 3,000 inches, costing 
from $10,000 to $30,000. Like the small ditches in California, they have paid 
the cost of their construction and a profit to their owners. Large ditches gen- 
erally ciltail a loss to their projectors. Where a large amount of water is brought 
into a mining district, th.e mines, unless very extensive, are soon exhausted. 
Sixty to SO cents an inch arc the rates charged here for the use of water for 24 hours. 
In some of the hydraulic claims work is continued day and night, as few or no 
companies have reservoirs. AVhere lumber is so abundant the creeks and gulches 
ought generally to pay to flume. Want of fall is probably the reason Avhy many 
of them have not been flumed. By the use of similar machinery to that recom- 
mended for Alder gulch, in JMontana, iluming could be rendered profitable in 
some cases where it is not now used. Except in the construction of flumes, 
placer operations in Boise Basin are conducted with considerable skill. Quartz 
mining has been conducted with different degrees of skill, and wdth varied success. 
(Due company called the Elk Horn is composed of four miners, who all work in 
the mill and mines, giving constant personal supervision to both, and although 
their ore is not richer than that of other mines, and their mill nowise superior to 
the ordinar}^ mills of the country, their enterprise has been uniformly successful. 
The Elk Horn is a small vein a foot to eighteen inches in thickness ; the mill 
in the same ratio, having only five stamps. This correspondence of the mill to 
the actual resources of the mines is doubtless a prominent cause of success. The 
best yield which has been obtained by the company from large amounts of ore 
is $40 per ton, which, with their economical management, aftbrds a good profit. 
On Granite creek are a number of veins with quartz so soft that two-thirds of 
the vein stuff can be washed in a common rocker without any previous cnishing. 

The Pioneer mine, on this creek, is a large vein of soft quartz, containing sul- 
pkurets. An extensive mill is nearly completed to work them. If it should 
pjove capable of extracting the gold it will be a very important success, as all 
g( )ld-bearing veins in the Territory will ultimately produce this ore. The Juniata, 
about eight miles northeast from Idaho City, has been opened to the depth of 
229 feet. This is probably the deepest opening in the basin. 

About 25 miles northeast from Idaho City is a district which contains many veins 
said to be rich in silver. Specimens from there are very prolific in horn and 
iTiby silver, with occasional particles of native silver. There are also specimens 
containing polybasite and argentiferous galena. All the ores contain gold. 
These veins are represented as being large, and the ores well diffused through 
them. They are situated in a dense forest, and are accessible only b}' a pack train. 
When wagon roads are built and the mines proved, it will probably be a val- 
uable mining district. 

Rocky Bae. — Rocky Bar, on the Boise river, about 60 miles from Idaho City, 
is a small, compact district, with many veins in a limited compass. It has been 
the scene of several enterprises on the part of capitalists from the eastern States, 
who purchased mines in this localit3^ The purchasers assert that when opened 
the mines did not prove good ; the parties who sold them maintain that if the 
affairs of the companies had been well managed the mines would have been 
successful. Neither of these opinions can be verified by practical examples at 
present, although many mills have been built and large sums of money expended. 

Atlanta and Yuba District. — No district in the Territory is more favored 
in respect to the supply of wood and water than the Middle Boise, or as it is 
now known, the Atlanta and Yuba, situated in Alturas county, 16 miles north- 
east of Rocky Bar, the county seat, on the Bliddle Boise river, at the junction of 
the Yuba. This district embraces the country lying in the forks of the two 
streams and adjacent. These streams afford magnificent water power for the 
propulsion of machinery. The new town of Atlanta is here situated on a gentle 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 521 

slope in the valley near tlie Middle Boise river. Along the base of a lofty moun- 
tain called Mount Forsyth, burst forth innumerable hot and boiling springs, 
throwing out large volumes of water, which, failing into the river, prevent it from 
freezing or closing with ice during the most rigorous winter. In this district is 
the Atlanta Ledge, already traced for miles in length, and from 15 to .25 feet in 
width. Selected OSes from this lode assay as high as §11,000 per ton in silver. 
In some places it is equally rich in gold. The Greenback Mining Company's 
mill, located at Atlanta, is run by water power, and is now working rock from 
this lode, although imperfectly, from want of proper appliances and skill. The 
result, however, is very satisfactory. In the immediate vicinity, and running 
parallel with the Atlanta, are other lodes which are thought by some to be quite 
equal, both in extent and richness ; such, for instance as the John Bascora and 
Jessie Benton, the Lusa, the Optimus, the Lenora and Silver Moon, the Tahoma 
and Greenback on the Atlanta or northwest side of the mountain. On the south 
or Yuba side are the North Star and Hard Times, continuations of the Atlanta, 
and the Sophia Tracy. For working the three last named there is an excellent 
20-stamp mill, with modem improvements, now being put up on the ground by 
J. H. O'Neal and associates. Here also are the Minerva, Olive Branch and 
Confidence lodes, all of which give promise of value. In some of them gold 
predominates, in others silver. There are other claims which may, wtien further 
developed, prove valuable; bu^ as little work has yet been done upon them no 
reliable opinion of them can be given. Mr. Graham, in co-operation with an Eng- 
lish company, has a 20-stamp mill on the way up from San Francisco, intended 
to operate in this district. The field for working in quartz, and for exploration 
and development is extensive. The valley through which runs the Middle Boise 
river is four miles in length and three in width, and surrounded on nearly all 
sides by lofty, rough and craggy mountains, some of which are covered with 
perpetual snow. With the exception of this little valley, and another of lesser 
size on the Yuba side of Quartz mountain, the whole face of the suiTounding 
country is rough and mountainous, so that the building of roads is a serious under- 
taking, and the want of them a great drawback to the development of the dis- 
trict. It is only within the past year that a wagon road has been opened. Here- 
tofore, all freight had to be transported upon pack animals. From this cause, 
less has been done in this camp, and it has attracted less attention than any 
other of equal value in the Territory. But now that it has become partially 
accessible, and demonstrated its richness by the working of its ores, it must soon 
become an important district. The lower hills in the vicinity and surrounding 
country afford fine grazing for cattle, horses and sheep until the snows of winter, 
which generally commence in December and last till April. About 20 miles 
southeast runs the South Boise river, bordering on which are large bodies of 
bottom and table lands, level and rich, well suited for purposes of agriculture. 
Oats, wheat and barley in sufficient abundance for the consumption of a consid- 
erable population can be produced in this region. It is now covered Avith a 
luxuriant growth of grass, from which thousands of tons of hay may be cut. The 
depredations of Indians in neighboring districts, the mismanagement, the want 
of skill and proper knowledge of the business, and the incompetency of agents 
and superintendents, with the misapplication»of capital, have done much to retard 
the development of the Atlanta mines. The regions north and west ofi'er induce- 
ments for exploration.* 

'The climate is not rij^orous even to the 60th parallel of north latitude. Lorin Bloclget says : 
' ' To the region bordering on the northern Pacitic the finest maritime positions belong thi ough- 
out its entire extent, and no part of the west of Europe exceeds it in the advantages of 
. equable climate, fertile soil, and commercial accessibility of the coast. The western slope 
of the Eocky Mountain system may be included as a part of this maritime region, embracing 
an immense area from the 45th to the 60th parallel, and five degrees of longitude in width. 
The cultivable surface of this district cannot be much less than 300,000 square miles." 
(Climatology of the United States, p, 53:i.) 



522 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Owyhee. — Gold was discovered in 1863 by a party under the leadersliip of a 
man named Jordan. They first found it about six miles below Iluby City. As 
the mines were rich, and wood and water abundant, a large number of miners 
soon collected, and built Boonville, Ruby and Silver cities. The placers paid 
well for about two years ; after that they vrere almost entirely superseded by 
vein raining. IMost of the mines produce both silver and gold, though these 
metals vaiy greatly in their relative proportion in different mines. In the Oro 
Fino gold predominates ; in the Poorman, silver. The placer gold is so alloyed 
Avith silver as to be worth but $10 per ounce. West and northwest from Silver 
City is a vein of porpliyry, which forms a mountain about a mile and a half long, 
half a mile wide, and 1,000 feet high, which is said to assay $3 per ton. All 
the gulches tliat head in this mountain have been rich in gold; in some, horn- 
silver has l^een found. In Owyhee are two systems of veins. One has a strike 
nearly north and south, with a dip almost vertical. To this system belong the 
Poorman and Whiskey veins, with silver predominating. They are probably 
older than the veins of the other system, but it has not been conclusively proved. 
The gold-bearing system of veins has a strike northwest and southeast, and a 
dip to the northeast. To this belongs the Oro Fino, and many others in which 
gold predominates. 

Oro Fftro. — The Oro Fino is one of the most productive mines in Idaho. 
The vein is large and well defined, and the gold generally diffused through the 
vein-stone. It was discovered in following up a placer deposit to the vein, on 
each side of the ridges in which it is situated. The first work done upon it as a 
quartz mine was hy ]\Iooro and Fogus, Avho took a large amount of ore from near 
the surface, which paid handsomely. Becoming involved in other enterprises, 
they failed, under a heavy indebtedness to their workmen. By an an-angement 
with other creditors the Avorkmen took the mine, agreeing to pay a certain pro- 
portion of the proceeds. Moore & Fogus left it in bad condition for working, 
and the men who undertook to work it had but limited means. By perseverance, 
however, they paid off the debt ; then opened the mine deeper than it had been 
opened before, and found a great increase in its richness. The company is known 
as the " Oro Fino and Morning Star." A recent crushing of SO tons yielded 
$160 to the ton; and it is probabl}^ now paying the owners a good profit. At 
a meeting of the stockholders held on the ] 7th of September last, an elaborate 
report of the mine was presented, from which the following is extracted : 

Work was commenced in the mine April 28th ; since v/hich time two shafts have been 
sunk of 92 and 67 feet respectively; 1,j34 tons of ore have been taken out, and up to the 
15th instant 2,050 tons had been crushed, which yielded $54,193. The total amount of 
expenditures in working the mine, including repairs, incidental expenses, &c., amounted to 
$45,508, besides other liabilities amounting to $12,476, from which, must be deducted about 
$8,000, value of supplies on hand necessary for supplying the mill, such as fuel, quicksil- 
ver, oils, acids, &c., including 7,000 pounds of shoes and dies. 1 he company by-laws were 
revised and amended; one amendment allows the trustees to expend, for the benefit of the 
company, any sum under but not exceeding $100,000, instead of $15,000 as heretofore. 
Altogether, the affairs of the company are in a very healthy state. They are now ready to 
slope out and woik a new level of 70 feet, and consequently they will talvc out much larger 
quantities of ore than before. A clean-up from 70 tons of ore last Saturday yielded $10,3:^7, 
and to-morrow they wi^l probably clean up nearly as much, which, added to the amount 
above reported, will malie an aggregate yield of above $75,000 since the 2Sth day of April, 
leaving about $25,000 in the treasury, with everything in good condition for future working. 

It is singular that so few mines are owned and worked by companies of 
operative miners, especially when we see how successful such companies usually 
are. Nearly all placer mines are worked by such companies, but wdieu a miner 
works a quartz vein he considers himself relieved froiu manual labor. The popu- 
lar belief that " a mill is required to work a mine" has had much to do in pre- 
venting companies of miners from working quartz mines. In all extensive mining- 
districts where mills are numerous, miners can sell their ore for all it is worth. 
Men who make milling their business can manage it better than those who 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 523 

are botli miners and mill-men. We see the beginning of this system in Cali- 
fornia, where the concentrated sulphurets are sold. 

PooEiiAN. — As this mine is, in its location, adverse titles, legal difficulties, 
and local characteristics, peculiar, it will be described somewhat at length. The 
Poorman, or Hays & Eay mine, was discovered in the summer of 1865, at or 
near what is now called the Discovery shaft, about 900 or 1,000 feet south from 
the rich chimney. The ore at this point was good, though not rich, and the vein 
somewhat small. While the discoverers were developing their viens, a pros- 
pector named Peck found some very rich float-rock about 1,000 feet south of 
then' shaft, and out of sight from its entrance. By a small amount of digging 
he reached the vein, which he carefully covered over with earth. Gathering up 
and secreting every rich piece of float he could find, he went where the discov- 
erers of the Hays & Hay were at w^ork, and after '' talking round," asked them 
where their claiur was located, and how far it extended in each direction. They 
showed him their boundaries, and walked directly over the spot where Peck had 
buried the vein, and such a distance beyond that he was convinced their claim 
embraced the rich ground. Peck continued to prospect in that vicinity, and 
cautiously commenced negotiations for the purchase of the mine. Not being sat- 
isfied with their figures, and there being few or no prospectors in the neighbor- 
hood, he left for a few daj^s, thinking his absence would cause the owners to 
come down in their price. Before he returned, another company of prospectors 
found the same spot discovered by Peck, called it the Poorman, and took out silver 
ore of great riclmess. Hays & Ray claimed the ground, but as their vein was 
not uncovered or traced to the ne^v opening, the Poorman company refused to 
leave, and as the Hays & Ray party had no money to pay for provisions or tools 
while they were tracing the vein, they gave Peck a share in it for tracing it from 
their opening into the Poorman. The Poorman party, seeing that they would 
become involved in litigation, associated their company with some capitalists con- 
nected with the Oregon Steam Navigation Company, and about the same time 
'or shortly before erected a fort at their mine, called " Fort Baker," built of logs, 
with portholes and other means of defence usual in such cases. The Hays & 
Ray party had their work so nearly completed that they could commence suit, 
but could not give the necessary bonds. Acting by the advice of Peck, they 
gave a portion of their interest to the New York and Owyhee Company, the lat- 
ter guaranteeing to carry the suit to a decision. Before trial a compromise was 
effected, the New York and Owyhee party getting the larger share. The Poor- 
man, at the start, had the great advantage of possession of the paying part of 
the mine. The strike of the vein is nearly due north and south ; the dip at the 
surface was to the west, but at the depth of about 150 feet it changed to the east, 
which is probably the permanent dip. The Silver Cord which is supposed to be 
on the same vein, at a depth of near 1,000 feet below the Poorman, has also the 
same dip. A change takes place in the character of the ore, as is usual when 
the dip changes. A large amount of unnecessary work has been done on this 
mine; one shaft sunk near the office would have been all. that was necessary; 
but when claims are in litigation much useless work must be done to prove iden- 
tity of vein. The vein-staff' is soft ; a great poiiion being a silicious clay that 
will dissolve in water. Ordinarily a mill will crush two tons to the stamp in 24 
hours. It shows considerable free gold. The sulphuret ores are decomposed 
except where found in large masses. At the depth of near 250 feet the greater 
part of the silver is in the form of a chloride. About 100 feet from the surface 
a body of ore showing partially the planes and angles of a crystal of ruljy silver 
was found, which weighed over 500 pounds. Upon being fractured it showed 
through the mass a uniform crystalline stratum. There is probably no second 
example of a similar mass of crystalline light-red niby silver ore being taken 
from any mine. A piece of this boulder was sent to the Paris Exposition this year 
and received a premium of a gold medal. Chloride of silver, or horn-silver, is 



524 EESOuriCES of states and territories 

found in pnrc masses, with crystals of remarkable size and beauty. It is said sheets 
of this ore were found more than a foot square and the sixteenth of an inch in 
thickness, some weighing many pounds. Black sulphurets of silver, or silver 
glance, is common in the mine ; also palybasite. The above enumerates the ores 
of the mine, but it contains also small amounts of the various silver-bearing 
minerals usually found in rich silver mines. These are generally more interest- 
ing to the mineralogist than useful to the metallurgist, by reason of their small 
quantities. 

It is impossible to estimate with accuracy the amount of bullion obtained 
from the earliest workings of the mine. For a period of three months, fram 
July 23, 1866, to October 23, we have a full account of its operations. The 
previous work on the mines, pending the litigation, had exposed large bodies of 
ore, but the Avorking parties were enjoined from removing them. The following 
statement from the official report of Mr. W. D. Walbridge, the special agent of 
the company, gives a clear idea of the operations of the company and the results 
obtained : 

Our first arningeinent of working the ore produced was with the New York and Oro Fine 
mill and our own mill, at the agreed price of $40 per ton for each mill. Subsequently wo 
found that we were producing from our north shaft considerable ore of a poorer quality, 
which we did not require at the two mills above named, as they were fully employed upon 
the richer silver ore. We therefore made an arrangement with the Jackson mill to work 
what we might require of that third-class ore for $30 per ton. Subsequently to this, having 
more second-class ore than the first-named two mills could work, and to secure the use of a 
hoisting engine to work our north shaft, Ave made an arrangement with the Aiusvvorth Mill 
Company to use their engine, by agreeing to give their mill all our surplus ore to work upoa 
the same termj as Avas paid the others. We Avere enabled to produce ore enough to supply 
all the mills named, and, by the several arrangements made, Avere enabled to produce a 
much larger amount of bullion than avo could have otherwise done, the great majority of 
our ores being too rich for any of the mills to Avork properly, and keep nearly up to their 
respective stamping capacity. 

We continued to Avork the mine until October 23, being a period of three months from the 
time it Avas opened. During this time Ave mined about 15 tons of first-class selected ore, 
which Ave determined to box up and ship to New York, Avith the view of its being reduced 
by the smelting process to increase its yield, Ave calculating that the cost of transporting the 
ore Avould not be any more, if as much, as it Avas costing us to realize upon our bullion pro- 
duced in Owyhee. The result has proved that Ave have lost nothing on the transportation, 
and have clearly gained, by getting a much larger product in NcAvark by the smelting pro- 
cess tlian Ave could have got in our mills ; the cost of smelting at NeAvark, by Messrs. 13al- 
bach, Dieffenbach «fc Company, being $100 per ton in gold ; and, as near as we can estimate, 
the product in bullion will be about $4,000 per ton in gold ; this is upon the ground and dried 
ore. Aside from that, and from Avhich the foregoing 15 tons of rich ore was selected, Ave 
mined 2,382f tons second and third-class ore, Avhich Avas crushed and Avorked at the four 
mills named — 

Producing, in refined bullion $546,691 59 

Deduct total cost of mining, hauling, m.illing, melting, assaying, and refining, 

with revenue tax, as per statement marked A, annexed hereto 156,440 39 

Making net proceeds 390,251 20 

j| 
To Avhich will be added avails of rich ore now being reduced at Newark. 
This amount has been appropriated as follows : 

Reimbursed our company for expenditure on Hays and Ray ledge $30, 000 00 

Reimbursed our company for cost of interest in Hays and Ray ledge 31, 000 00 

Paid our company from second proceeds of mine 100. 000 00 

Paid P.F.Bradford, per agreement 130,000 00 

Total payments on account of compromise 291 , 000 00 

Leaving for distribution, pro rata, $99,251 20. 

The late date at Avhich the settlement Avith Mr. Bradford was efi'ected, with the seeming 
necessity of Avorking the mine sharply and vigorously to secure as large a result as possible 
before the time agreed upon to close the mine, November 1, placed us at much disadvantage 
as regards costs of working and expenses, so that the expenses last fall should not be con- 
sidered as any criterion for the future. 

At the company's mill avo crushed 880 tons of Poorman ore in a period of 78 week days, 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 525^ 

averaging about 11;^ tons for each working day. This was all wo could amalgamate in our 
pans, due partly to a want of quicksilver, and partly to the very long time required to work 
such very rich silver ore. The want of quicksilver can be easily and cheaply remedied 
another year ; but even then our pans can hardly more than amalgamate in 24 hours what lU 
of our stamps can crush in 12 to 14 hours, which is barely more than one-fourth our stamp- 
ing capacity. Therefore the mill needs more amalgamating pans, by which much more rock 
can be worked, and more of the stamping force kept employed. Wo received for crushing 
the 880 tons of ore, as per statement A, $35,200, which somewhat more than paid the cost ; 
but if we had had ten more pans we could have worked nearly or quite three times the 
quantity at very little more aggregate expense. In other words, while it cost us nearly $35 
per ton to crush, in the given time, 880 tons of ore, with sufficient amalgamating capacity 
and quicksilver, our mill could work -2,200 to 2,400 tons of ore, at a cost of $18 to $20 per 
ton, and perhaps less. I would, therefore, recommend you to provide the mill another 
season with plenty of quicksilver, and about 10 more approved pans, with the necessary 
separators, to properly and cheaply work the Poorman ore. Quicksilver is always wanted, 
because it is always wasting by use. The pans, with necessary machinery put up, will cost 
about $20, 000 in gold. 

Foreseeing, in July last, the necessity and importance of saving the tailings from almost 
any gold and silver ore, and especially from the Poorman ore, I ordered a substantial stone 
wall built around our tailing yard, sufficient to hold securely against flood about 1,500 tons. 
The cost was about $4,000, and it now contains the tailings from the 880 tons of ore worked 
in our mill, which assay about $50 per ton. The tailings produced at the Ainsworth and 
Oro Fino mills belonging to us are safely cared for, and assay about the same. Those from 
the Jackson mill were lost, being of but little value. 

Believing additional settlers in our mill would enable us to save more sulphurets, and 
catch some quicksilver and amalgam, and, as our amalgamating floor was very small, I 
determined to build on the north side of the mill a one-story addition, to give lis more floor 
room, room for three settlers and one Knox pan for cleaning amalgam, a store-room for 
chemicals, and a small room for assaying. This cost about $(5,000, answers every purpose 
it was built for very well, and, I believe, will pay its cost in saving, besides being a very 
great convenience. 

As I looked upon the question of fuel as one which would in the future enter largely into 
the cost of working ores, I aimed to buy all I could during the fall, at low prices, and left 
orders with Mr. Peck to contract for cutting upon our land, and land near the mill, at low 
rates. We had, therefore, on hand, at and near the mill, on January 31, 1,118 cords of 
wood, which had cost $7,360 G2. About 600 cords of this is piled up near the mill, con- 
venient for use ; the balance is at different points within one mile ; all of it is so scattered 
as to be in little danger from fire. To be forehanded in our supply will, I believe, enable us 
to avail ourselves of opportunities to get all we may need cheaply for some years. 

Not knowing that working Poorman ore would require so large an amount of quicksilver 
as was proved to be the case, we found ourselves with a very short supply, though for ordi- 
nary use we had sufficient. I was therefore compelled to send to Portland, Oregon, and San 
Francisco for over 100 flasks to come up by stages, at a cost of $1 15 per pound delivered at 
our mill. I also purchased wherever I could in town, some of vi^hich cost us $1 40 per 
pound ; but with all I could get we had barely enough for effective use on the oro we 
worked. The need of a full supply was partly the cause of the small quantity of rock 
manipulated in our own mill. We now have on hand 137^ flasks of quicksilver, say 10,980 
pounds, valued at 80 cents per pound, or $8,788 80. I would recommend the purchase this 
spring of as much more, to go out by slow freight, which will cost from 72 to 75 cents, 
delivered at our mill. 

We had but one retort, which unfortunately gave w.ay within two weeks after v/o com- 
menced working Poorman ore, so we had to rent and use those of our neighbors, requiring 
us to carry our amalgam a distance averaging nearly one mile, and our bullion the same, 
and to keep a double force to retort the amalgam, working night and day, being the only 
way we could keep our small supply of quicksilver at all in hand. I at once ordered two 
new retorts from San Francisco, but they were so large and unwieldy that they had to come 
by slow freight via Portland, Oregon, and did not reach us until too late to be of service. I 
calculate the loss to the company from the breaking of that retort, and having to replace it, 
at fully $4,000. The cost of new ones delivered at our mill would not exceed $350 each ; I 

would therefore recommend that you provide against the recurrence of such a loss. 

* * *«# * * » 

Prior to the adjustment of the Poorman controversy, I secured 1,000 feet by location, and 
266 feet by purchase, of a newly-discovered ledge lying upon Florida mountain, opposite 
our mill, at a cost of $2, 103 50. The 1,000 feet is so much undivided in a claim of $1,400, 
the balance is undivided in the adjoining claim. 

In addition to the property enumerated in statement marked B is the company's mill prop- 
erty, which consists of one 20-stamp mill, with 10 Wheeler's patent pans ; five separators ; 
three settlers ; one Knox pan ; one office ; one boarding-house ; one barn ; one blacksmith , 
shop ; one retort house ; one temporary carpenter's shop, all very good for the several pur- ' 
poses used, the office affording sleeping room for two, and an addition to the barn affording 



526 EESOURCES OP STATES AND TEERITOEIES 

storage room for iron and tools. The boardinp^-house having heretofore been the only accom- 
modation of that kind, as well for officers and millmen, and such guests as we found it to 
the company's interest to lodge, (which, for several reasons, is in my opinion inconvenient,) 
I would recommend the building of a moderate house cf sufficient capacity to accommodate 
a few persons, independent of the general boarding-house. 

The Poorman mine forms at present the chief value of the company's investment. The 
New York and Owyhee Company now owns 1,142| feet undivided in 1,600 of this mine. 

Summary of accounts from mine loolcs, February 1, 1867, (in gold.) 

EXPENDITURES. 

Construction account — cost of mill $147, 621 63 

Legal expenses 44,575 06 

Mining cost 39,045 31 

Expense account 22, 116 00 

Labor account 7, 324 41 

Interest account 6,347 10 

$267, 029 51 

Woodlands and ledges. 

Noonday ledge 5, 897 61 

Eureka ledge 2,974 .59 

Stamper ledge 2,103 50 

Woodland and mill site 1,625 00 

12, 600 70 

Houses and lots 2, 441 75 

Supplies account 16,308 21 

Wood account 7,360 62 

26, 110 58 

Bullion account — amount sent to New York 133, 942 28 

Drafts on Cosmos and Oro Fino Companies 5, 704 69 

139, 646 97 

Due the company. 

Cash in agent's hands 2, 318 06 

Bills and debts receivable 7, 496 06 

9,814 12 



455,201 88 



RECEIPTS. 

Drafts on treasurer $278,760 85 

Poorman mine 166,888 '33 

Due by the company. 
BiUs and debts payable 9,552 70 

455,201 88 

Trial balance of the booJcs of the JSfeiv YorJc and Owyhee Gold and Silver Mining 

Company J March, 1867. 

EXPENDITURES. 

Real estate— cost of mine $1,050,000 00 

Mining account $278,760 85 

Exchange account 127, 223 61 

Expense account 26, 063 45 

Interest account 20,832 62 

Insurance on mill 1, 425 00 

454, 305 53 

Hays and Ray ledge account 87, 362 56 

Dkp the company. 

Cash in treasurer's hands 7, 236 61 

Debts receivable 20,053 33 

■ 27, 289 94 

1,618,958 03 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



527 



RECEIPTS. 

Capital stock, amount paid in $1, 

Stock accoTint, proceeds of sale of 2,500 shares 

Bullion account, realized in gold $13^, 942 28 

Premium on ditto 64, 703 19 

W. D. Walbridge, agent, realized in gold from ore in part 4,992 62 

Premium in gold from ore in part 1,888 10 

Due by the company. 

Bonds 50,000 00 

Debts payable 13,781 84 

Outstanding draft 150 00 



249,500 00 
100,000 00 



198, 645 47 
6, 8S0 72 

63,931 84 
1,618.958 03 



A. — jResult of Poorman mine from July 19 to November 1, 1866. 



Name of mill. 


Tons 
crushed. 


Crude bul- 
lion. 


Refined bul- 
lion. 


Value of 
bullion. 


Average 
of bullion 
per ton. 


Remarks. 




369} 
362} 

771} 
860 


Ounces. 

7, 860 20 

34, 592 53 

129, 542 51 

156, 394 25 


Ounces. 
7, 323 29 

33, 178 .52 
116,753 91 
147, 960 17 


$25, 200 48 

62,220 81 

20.3,586 71 

255, 683 59 


$68 25 
171 88 
264 05 
301 91 


Mostly 3d class gold rock. 
87f t'ns3dcl's,274.it'n8 2d. 
40 a 50 3d el's, bal. 2d el's. 
All 2d class rock. 


Ainsvvorth Mill 

N. Y. fcOroFiDo Mill. 
N.y.& Owyhee Mill.. 




546, 691 59 















IVhole amount of rock produced and sent to mills. 

New York and Oro Fino Gold and Silver Mining Company — accounted for 750| 

New York and Oro Fino Gold and Silver Mining Company — not accounted for 20-J 

Ainsworth Milling Company, as above 362| 

Jackson Mill Company, as above .-- 369^ 

New York and Owyhee Gold and Silver Mining Company, as above 880 

Total tons 2,382| 

Cost of hauling 1,133| tons to Sinker creek, at $8 $9,068 00 

Cost of hauling 1,249| tons to Jordan creek, at $6 50 8, 120 12 

Total cost of hauling 17,188 12 

Cost of milling 362;^ tons at Ainsworth mill §13, 170 47 

Cost of milling 750f tons at New York and Oro Fino mill 30,030 00 

Cost of milling 369^ tons at Jackson mill 11,082 07 

Cost of milling 880 tons at New York and Owyhee Gold and Silver Milling Co. 35,200 00 
Cost of milling 20| tons at New York and Oro Fino mill (balance) 820 00 

Total cost of milling 90,302 54 

Total expenses at mine for labor, supplies, lumber, timber, &c., less profit on 

money, $3,286 99 $38,707 74 

Cost of refining and assaying bullion 7, 250 01 

Internal revenue tax, in gold 2, 991 78 

Net proceeds of 2,382f tons of rock crushed $390,251 20 

Value of bullion per ounce, refined — Jackson mill $3 44.11 

Value of bullion per ounce, refined — Ainsworth mill 1 87.53 

Value of bullion per ounce, refined — New York and Oro Fino mill 1 74.38 

Value of bullion per ounce, refined— New York and Owyhee mill 1 72.81 

Average yield of all rock crushed 229 41 

Net yield of all rock crushed per ton 163 34 

All charges for mining, milling, &c., per ton 66 07 



628 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The net yield of the ores from this mine is wonderful, and is due mainly to 
their richness. A large amount is left in the tailings. The managers are per- 
fectly aware of this, for at the company's mill, by a well arranged system of 
reservoirs, all the tailings are saved, so that when the water leaves the last reser- 
voir it is clear and can be used over again. This mill is well constracted and 
conveniently arranged. The ore is crushed wet and is amalgamated in pans. 
This collects the free gold, the silver from the chloride of silver, and a portion 
from the silver glance ; but the gold from the sulphurets, and nearly all the silver 
in combination with sulphur, remain in the tailings. It Avould probably be 
unwise to remove the present mill, but in case of building a new one it avouM 
be advisable to have it as near the mine as practicable. Last year the cost 
of hauling from the mine to the mill was $6 50 per ton, a very heavy and 
unnecessary expense. The Poorman vein shows but few marks of movement on 
its walls, as might be inferred from its nearly vertical position. It is probable 
that no faults of great extent will be met in working it. The vein in the widest 
l)arts is three feet or more, but its average thickness, from the shaft of Hays and 
Hay, (as shown in the lower tunnel,) for a distance of 1,100 feet north, is not 
over a foot. Near the southern end of this tunnel is evidence of another chim- 
ney, not so rich, however, as that in the Poorman shaft, Doul)tless many more 
may be found. These, however, are the only chimneys yet developed. The 
great richness of this vein has caused its examination by many speculative men 
who never saw a mine before, and who considered that each vein exhibited 
something miraculous. But nature operates by unchanging laws, and if these 
gentlemen had examined other mines they would have found the same forces 
producing the same effects, and have saved themselves the trouble of inventing 
useless and ridiculous theories. 

Flint District. — Flint district is situated about nine miles south from Silver 
City. It has a number of very promising silver-bearing veins, all containing 
nearly the same varieties of ore. Polybasite, antimonial silver, and xanthacone 
are the principal varieties. All these require roasting before they can be reduced 
by amalgamation. A mill with two small furnaces has been recently erected. 
The yield of the ore has been very satisfactory. The Rising Star has been Avell 
developed. It is a regular vein aliout 10 feet thick, and contains a large amount 
of antimonial silver and some gold. Tins is a very busy mining camp, thickly 
peopled with miners and all at work. The Iowa and Idaho mill, with a capa- 
city of 15 tons per day, is nearly completed. This mill is intended to work by 
roasting and amalganration. In theory the plan is correct. The mechanical 
arrangements, either as they are or with some modifications, will probably be 
successful. The altitude of Flint district is 1,000 or 1,500 feet less than that of 
Silver City, and the chmate is milder. Owyhee, being the most southern mining- 
region in Idaho, Avill receive more directly the benefits arising from the con- 
struction of the Central Pacific railroad, which, it is claimed, will be only 90 
miles in a direct line from Silver City. Placer and vein tinstone have been found 
near Silver City. The placer tin was in small quantities. Only three veins 
containing this'metal have been found. Whether the mines when opened will 
prove valuable is uncertain, but their appearance encoiu-ages a trial. 

■Climate. — The climate of Idaho is greatly diversified by the altitude. ^ In 
the mines, which are generally high up in the mountains, the temperature is of 
course much colder than in the valleys. The following memoranda by M. M. 
Chipman, of Idaho, were kindly fm-nished by the observer. Full thennometri- 
cal tables by the same observer were destroyed by fire : 

Copy of weather memoranda, 

Idaho City, July, 1867. 

On the morning of the 12th December, 1865, the mercury of Fahrenheit's thermometer 
stood at 5" below zero. December 19th, at half past 1 o'clock a. m., at 18° below zero; 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



529 



but the temperature grew milder immediately afterwards, and the mercury stood at 6° below 
zero at 7 o'clock a. m. 

February 14, 1867. — The mercury stood at 5° below zero at 7 o'clock a. m., and at 2° 
below at 10 p. m. 

February 15, 1867. — 5° below zero at 7 o'clock a. m. 

February 16, 1867. — .3° below zero at 7 o'clock a. m. 

The foregoing memorandum shows the coldest periods of the winters of 1865-66 at this 
place. During the month of January I do not think the mercury fell below zero. The 
greatest depth of snow during that winter occurred about the 1st of January, at which time 
it was three feet deep around this city, but much deeper on the surrounding heights. 

April 20, 1867. — I have had a fire in my room this spring throughout every day to this 
date, with the exception of one which was so warm as to render it unnecessary. 

The winter of 1866-'67 was milder than any experienced since the settlement of this 
(Boise) basin until March, which was a colder month than either of the three preceding, and 
colder than any preceding March known by the present population. 

March 1"2, 1867. — The mercury stood at 13'J below zero at 7 o'clock a.m. 

March 13, 1867. — 17° below zero at 7 o'clock a. m. 

The days mentioned were by several degrees the coldest during the winter, although there 
were a few other days at about the same time during which, in the latter part of the night and 
the early part of the morning, the mercury ranged at from 1*^ to 6^ below zero. During the 
three winter months proper the mercury rarely fell as low as zero. M. M. CHIPMAN. 

Qtjaktz Mills. — The following' table of quartz mills and water ditches in 
Idaho, omitting- names of owners on account of the frequent changes of owner- 
ship, is from Langley's Pacific Coast Directory. The increase in number during 
the past year (1867) has been comparatively small. Notices of the new mills, 
constructed or in progress, and of the ditches, are given in the descriptions of 
the districts : 

Tahlc of quartz mills, with their location, name, cost, date of erection, nurnher of stamps, Sfc. 



Name of mill. 


Location. 


Cost. 


^1 


o . 

■s ° 

S 5 


It 

u 


o 


o 

O 




Alturas county. 




18C5 


12 
10 
40 
10 
10 
10 
20 
10 
10 

10 

8 

5 

8 

10 

10 

12 

25 




Steam. 
do 


G. & S. 


W^addingham fi & S. M Co 


do 




Do. 


"Waddingham G. & S. M. Co 

Pittsburg & Idaho G. & S. M. Co. . 


Clifden 








do. 


Do. 


Elk Creek 






3 




Do. 










Do. 


Kevv York & Idaho G. M. Co 


do 








Steam. 
. . do . . . 


Do. 


Victor Gold & Silver Mining Co.. 


do 






Do. 












Do. 














Do. 




Boise county. 










Do. 




Divide 








Do. 


Elkhorn 


Elk Creek 








Water. 
. . do . . . 


Do. 










Do. 




Idaho City 








Steam. 
. . do . . 


Do. 




do 






Do. 












..do... 


Do. 












..do... 


Do.. 


Gates 


do 








..do... 


Do. 










5 




. . do . . . 


Do. 




;::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 








Do.. 


Lincoln 


Owyhee county. 






20 

10 

20 

5 

8 
10 
20 

in 
4 
10 

10 
5 




Ste.am. 
..do... 


Do. 










Do. 


Martin & Co 










..do... 


Do. 




.do 


$40, 000 
75, 000 






..do... 


Do. 


Morning Star 


do 




..do... 


Do. 


Nt'vv York <fe Oro Pino. . 


do 




..do... 


Do, 


New York & Owyhee 


do 


120, 000 

100, 000 

10, 000 






..do... 


Do. 


Slioenbar 


do 




..do... 


Do. 




. do 




..do... 


Do. 


Ainsworth 








Do. 




do 










Do. 


Webl'oot 












Do. 

















34 



530 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Water ditches, with the location, source oj" water, length, Sfc, of each. 



Name of ditch. 



Source of water. 



Miles in 
length. 



Alderson , 

Bannack 

Big Ditch 

Buena Vista 

Centerville 

Christa 

Deer Creek Ditch Company's 

Goldstrup & Company's 

Grimes Creek 

More & Wilson's 

Pine Creek , 

Placerville 

Upper Creek 

Wright's 



Boise county. 



Alderson Creek. 
Bannack Bar... 



Buena Vista Bar. 



Deer Creek. 



Grimes' Creek . 
More's Creek .. 
Pine Creek 



Prospecting for Mines. — All miners are prospectors to a certain extent, but 
in all mining communities on the Pacific slope there is a class wliose sole busi- 
ness is to prospect for new mines. By long experience these men acquire a 
degree of skill that appears like instinct. As far as they can see a mountain they 
can determine with great accuracy the probabilities of its containing metals of 
value. If the hills are smooth and the points are rounded off, placer gold may 
be found, but not where the hills are bare rock with sharp angular projections. 
If there is granite, slate, porphyr}', or limestone, metalliferous veins may be found, 
but if the rocks are volcanic it is useless to look for anything valuable where it 
prevails exclusively. The color of the earth is also an important consideration ; 
over a metalliferous vein there is usually a strip of the earth, about the width 
of the vein, different in color from the surrounding earth. 

The outfit for either quartz or placer prospecting is the same, except a differ- 
ence in tools. Sometimes a single man goes, but usually from 2 to 12 men go 
in a company ; the latter number only in a hostile Indian country. 

Each man has a saddlehorsc, and every two or three men a packliorse for the 
purpose of carrying their provisions, cooking utensils, mining tools^ and blankets. 
In very stormy weather a tent is sometimes added to the outfit. 

Cooking utensils consist of a camp kettle, coffee pot, fiying pan, tin cups, and 
knives. The food is bacon, beans, self-rising flour, sugar, and coffee. These, 
with a Colt's revolver, Henry rifle, or a double-barrelled shot-gun, constitute the 
armament. 

A properly organized party will subsist for months at a time, and traverse a 
country hundreds of miles in extent without fresh supplies. 

For placer prospecting the tools are a pick, pan, shovel, and axe. For quartz 
or vein prospecting, a palepick, (a pick at one end and a hammer at the other,) 
shovel, horn spoon, iron mortar, magnet and eyeglass, a few vials of acids, 
ammonia and solution of salt, and some mattrasses and test tubes. When the 
prospector can use the blowpipe he always carries it, with a few reagents. The 
use of the pick and shovel is too well known to require description. TIkb mor- 
tar is used to reduce the rock or ore to a fine powder, which is worked in the 
horn spoon to test it for gold. Very minute particles of gold can be detected in 
this manner, especially Avhcre a magnifying glass is used. The eyeglass is also 
useful to examine pieces of rock. 

If the rock is suspected to contain silver, it is heated in a fire to as high a 
degree as the means in a wild country will admit, and if very rich the silver 
melts and forms globules, which adhere to the rock when cold. This test is 
not very certain, as lead and antimony behave in the same manner and are gen- 
erally associated with silver, so tliat the presence of one is a strong indication 
of the others. Another method is to ptdverize a portion of the rock, boil it in 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 531 

a mattrass with nitric acid, and allow it to settle. To a portion of the clear 
liquor in a test tube an equal portion of a strong solution of common salt is 
added. If the rock contains silver not in the form of a chloride, a white precipi- 
tate is thrown down, which an exposure to the light for a few hours changes to a 
purple, and in process of time turns Llack. Other metals, as lead, antimony, 
and zinc, form a white precipitate, but it does not change its color by exposure 
to light. If the rock contains copper, a portion of the solution with twice the 
amount of ammonia added turns a deep blue. By these means the presence of 
gold, silver, copper, and lead can be determined, which, with tin and quicksil- 
ver, constitute the list of valuable metals on the Pacific slope. The blowpipe, 
with a delicate pair of scales and the requisite reagent, will detennine any known 
mineral, so that with some little experience any compound of the valuable metals 
can be easily identified. 

After a party in search of placer mines arrives in a district reported to be rich 
and where the appearances are favorable, they select a camping ground near some 
spring or stream of water where their horses can get grass, and proceed to explore 
the countr}'. Smooth, well-rounded hills and beds of gravel, either near a stream 
or on the side or top of a hill, are good indications ; also quartz veins and boul- 
ders. The dirt from the top of the earth is tried by Avashing in a pan. If it 
prospects well the discovery is made, but if it shows nothing, or too small an 
amount to pay, a pit is sunk down until a change is observed in the color or 
consistency of the gravel, or until the bed rock is reached. On the bars of 
streams the sand and gravel near the surface are finer and lighter than further down, 
the gold corresponding ; the greatest deposit being on and in the bed rock near 
its surface. In hill diggings sometimes for the depth of 70 feet the gold is found 
about equally distributed the whole distance. If gold is found in sulficient 
quantities a district is organized and a toAvai springs up. But if after the sink- 
ing of pits no satisfactory prospect is found, the party move on. 

Prospectors often move too soon. When gold is found even in small amounts, 
the pits ought to be sunk to the bed rock before it is abandoned. Frequently 
a body of hard clay or cement is taken iov the bed rock, not only in prospecting 
but in working, as at Carpentier's bar in Montana. Some skill is required to 
select the best place to sink a pit. In most gulches a skilful prospector can 
select points in which if no gold is found it is almost certain that there is none 
in it. The best points are where a ridge of rock extends across the channel of 
the stream and where the gravel is shallow. If a place can be found where the 
gravel and soil are not more than two feet deep and the bed rock is rough, and 
on a thorough prospect entirely across the channel no gold is discovered, it is 
exceedingly probable that none exists in that gulch, or at least near that portion 
of it. In prospecting for bar claims the most favorable points are where the 
stream now makes a bend where it formerly ran across. What are called ''■ hill 
diggings " are beds of gravel deposited by ancient streams when the general 
level of the country was higher than at present. They are often found under 
solidified streams of lava, as under Table mountain in California. 

Perseverance is a cardinal virtue in a prospector. Many mines are said to be 
discovered by accident, as in Alder creek, where the prospectors sank a pit, but 
the prospects appearing too small the party concluded to abandon it except one, 
who said he would trj^ '' one panful of dirt more." The result was the discov- 
ery of the richest mines in Montana. At Florence, in Idaho, a man left in 
ciunp Avliile the rest of the party were away prospecting, saw some gravel on 
the root of a tree in a swamp. Trying a panful he discovered what is known 
as the Salmon River mines. 

Skill and experience are absolutely essential in this branch of mining. Any 
mountain not volcanic is liable to contain valuable metalliferous veins. They 
are found in rough and high mountain cliffs, but apparently not as abundantly 
as in those with smooth outlines. Quartz prospectors follow the foot of a moun- 



532 KESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tain range and examine the sand and gravel in tlie beds of streams. These 
beds are generally dry in summer, which renders examination comparatively 
easy. If the gravel consists of granite, or slate with quartz pebbles, they fol- 
low up the stream, breaking open every piece of quartz to see if it contains any- 
thing valuable. As they ascend the quartz is more abundant and the pieces 
become larger until reaching a certain point, where no more is found in the bed 
of the stream. This shows that the vein is not above but in the sides of the 
stream, which are now carefully exauiined. 

The vein generally crops to the surface and is easily found. But when it is 
covered with soil, trenches are run through it down to the bed rock, at right 
angles to the supposed course of the vein. Tliis is not done unless the quartz 
fragments, called " float quartz," are rich in some valuable metal. 

Often, though many veins are found in one locality-, each sending down large 
quantities of float quartz, perhaps only one of them has rich float. Here judg- 
ment is required to distinguish between the different varieties of float quartz and 
veins with quartz almost exactly alike. The skill of some prospectors is won- 
derful in determining the existence and locality of small veins covered deep 
under the soil, whose float quartz is nearly identical with that from a larger vein 
close above it. 

In California nearly all the gold-bearing veins are quartz, and the prospectors 
hardly ever prospect for anything else ; but gold is found in paying quantities in 
slate, as at the Harpending mines, near Fulsom, and the Oro mine, in Bear val- 
ley. In Colorado it is found in feldspar, as at the Gregory, Bates, and Bobtail; 
aaid in Idaho in porphyry, as in the mountains west from Silver City. 

General Remarks on Proving and Working Mines. — Vein mining for 
the precious metals will be the principal source from whicli they will be obtained 
in the future. The product of placer mines will grow less and finally cease, 
but the product from vein mining Avill increase for an indefinite period. If the 
miners on the Pacific slope could have the benefit of each other's experience, 
how many millions it would save annually ! This not being possible without 
the aid of a national school of mines, as recommended elsewhere in this report, 
a few suggestions derived from experience concerning the opening and working 
of mines may not be inappropriate in view of the undeveloped wealth of Idaho 
and Montana. Rules of extensive applicatioil must be very general in their 
character, and as the conditions under whicli each mine is worked necessarily 
vary, no general rule will exactly apply to ever}^ particular case. General rules 
guard against loss in mining, while particular rules increase the profits.* Tlie 
first quartz mining in California was liy Mexicans in 1849-50. They intro- 
duced the arrastra, and by carefully assorting the ores containing fine gold from 
the surface, obtained by this slow method very satisfactory results. The Amer- 
icans, seeing these results, put up large mills capable of crushing vast quanti- 
ties, expecting to get profits in the ratio of the amount crushed. Not being 
properly assorted, much of the rock which they crushed was nearly barren, and 
their machinery, though very costly, failed to extract the gold which the ore 
contained. Nearly all these enterprises resulted in a loss to the projectors, and 
for a number of years quartz mining was in great disfavor in California. A few 
miners continued to work and experiment until they were successful, and quartz 
mining gradually increased in productiveness until it has become one of the 
most important interests in the State. 

* An acquaintance Avith the general results collected and classified by geology must be our 
first guide in the investigation of mines. This enables the observer to judge whether any 
particular district should, from the nature and arrangement of its rocks, be susceptible of 
including within its bosom beds of workable ores. It indicates, also, to a certain degree, 
what substances may probably be met within a given series of rocks, and what locality these 
substances will preferably affect. For want of a knowledge of these facts many persons 
have gone blindly into researches equally absurd and ruinous. (Ure's Dictionary.) 



WEST. OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 533 

The same changes were observed in the silver-lbearing veins in Nevada. First, 
fi season of discovery and excitement, followed by wild speculation and extrav- 
agant expenditure; next a time of disappointment and distrust, and this by a 
general season of prosperity and profit to all Avell-conducted enteiprises. The 
same changes are taking place in Colorado, IMontana, and Idaho, with scarcely 
any variations, except such as are induced by local causes. It is desirable to 
know the causes that act injuriously in one locality, so that they can be avoided 
in another. The conditions under which mines are Avorked are nearly similar 
on the whole Pacific slope, and a mode of Avorking that is very defective in one 
locality must be objectionable in all others which it closely resembles, and a 
mode of working that experience has proved to be best in a given district, with 
slight modifications, will be adapted to other districts containing similar condi- 
tions. These principles underlie all business transactions, and cannot be violated 
with impunit}". One of the fundamental eiTors in mining is to make a false esti- 
mate of the value of the mine, the amount and richness of the ores, and the cost 
of extracting them. The richest mining districts contain many veins that will 
not pay to Avork, and great care is required to knoAV Avhether a A'ein Avill pay for 
Avorking or not. Locality is A^ery important : if a vein be situated in a large 
mining community Avhere labor and materials are cheap and abundant, the cost 
of AA'orking Avill be greatly less than in ncAV and unsettled districts, where the 
pioneers must take all supplies Avith them, or where freights are high or Avood 
and Avater very scarce as in a sterile region. In old and extensive mining districts 
the cost of opening a mine, extracting the ore and reducing it, can be quite accu- 
rately determined, and its value known by such extensiAa^ Avorkings as admit of 
no serious mistake, especially AA'lien it is knoAvn what varieties of ore can be profit- 
ably reduced by the methods of reduction practised in the district. In ncAV 
districts, unless freights are A^ery Ioav, mines of gold and silver only Avill pay to 
work, and they must be so rich and large that there is no question of the quantity 
and quality of their ores. If a vein produces rich ore, the next point to ascertain is 
its size, and AA'hat quantity of ore it Avill yield. First, thickness; if a vein is not 
four inches or more in thickness its A'aluo is very doubtful, unless remarkably 
rich. Very rarel}^ a \'ein is discovered like the Oro, in Bear ^^alley, Mariposa 
county, California, Avhich Avas not more than tAvo inches thick, but paid Avonder- 
fully for a short time, and then gave out. No confidence can be placed in the 
extent of such small A'cins, for the extent of a vein is usually in the ratio of its 
thickness. In Avorking a vein the miner must make an opening three feet Avide 
to allow room for Avorking, and this space must be excavated Avhether it contains 
ore or not. Veins are nearly alAvays softer than their Avails, and can be exca- 
vated for much less cost than the same amount of wall rock. In the three-feet 
vein nothing but ore is taken out, but in a four-inch vein only one-ninth is ore, 
and in the most favorable circumstances the ore from the small veins costs nine 
times as much for mining as the larger, and owing to the hardness of the Avail 
rock, it may be 20 times more. A two-feet vein sometimes requires heavy tim- 
bering, but may be worked nearly as cheap as a three-feet one, for the Avorthless 
rock that must be broken can be used to secure the mine instead of timber. This 
is done in larger veins, as all contain barren portions Avhich are used to support 
the mine, and nothing requires more skill in mining than to leave the barren por- 
tion, and excavate that which Avill paj^ The shafts and drifts in a small vein must 
be the same as in a large one, and the pumps and hoisting machine nearly or quite 
as costly. It is a general rule that the larger the vein, other things being equal, 
the, less the cost per ton for extracting the ore. For instance, Q,uail Hill, No. 1 
mine, in Calaveras county, California. Here the workmen oftered, after the mine 
Avas opened, to deliver the ore at the mouth of the vein for 50 cents per ton. 
This vein is from 70 to 80 feet thick, and Avell opened. The thickness of a vein 
cannot be knoAvn until it has been opened to a considerable depth, and traced 
on the sm-face for the length of the claim, or as far as it can be followed. 



534 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Tracing on the surface is more cheaply done than sinking, and more likely to 
intersect any "chimneys" of ore that may exist in the veins. Extent at the 
surface is commonly in ratio of depth. Where veins come to an end they usually 
split into a number of small seams, which disappear as they are followed, hut 
when 'only one seam is found the vein generality continues. It is important to 
know the character of the vein, whether it is regular or irregular in size and 
richness, whether it is full of "horns" or afflicted with "faults." Generally the 
greater portion of the ore is found in what are called "chimneys" or "chutes," 
as in the Oomstock, which is rich for some hundreds of feet in length, and then 
for as great or greater distance is barren. Chimneys seldom descend at right 
angles to the strike of the vein, but dip lengthwise in it, and sometimes leave 
one claim and extend into another. In estimating the amount of vein stuft' in a 
vein, it is safe to allow 14 cubic feet to the ton, as it is found in the vein; this 
is more than the formula in the books allows, but it works well in practice. Thus, 
if a vein is traced for 1,000 feet, and shows an average thickness of one foot, 
1,000 feet deep will give 70,000 tons of vein stuff. Few veins of this size pay 
to follow so deep, and one-half of this amount of vein-stuff or 35,000 tons is all 
that can be relied on. These calculations in veins that are opened are of great 
value in estimating the available ore on hand, but in unopened mines they only 
give a vague idea of what might be in them under the most favorable circum- 
stances. In former times, 2,000 feet was aboi;t the working depth of the best 
mines; but in the future, owing to improved methods of working, the same class 
of mines will be worked to a greater depth. Some veins get thicker as they 
are followed down ; others get thinner and finally disappear. Generally they 
are more liable to decrease than to increase in value. The improvements of tlie 
present time in mining machinery render the Avorking of a mine much more rapid 
than formerly, and as much ore can be taken from a mine in 20 years as in 300 
when the ore was carried on the backs of men up rude ladders out of the mine. 
By this rapid method mines can be worked at much less cost than when the 
work is done very slowly; thus a mine that contains 400,000 tons of ore, at 100 
tons per day, will be exhausted in about 15 years, but at 8 or 10 tons per day it 
will require 150 years, and the cost of keeping the water out and repairing the 
timbering in the shafts and drifts would give a good profit on any moderate sized 
mining enterprise. Neither could the ancient miners extract such vast masses of 
ore as are taken out of the Oomstock, Avithout leaving a large portion in the form 
of pillars to support the walls. Probably no mine was ever worked under the 
same difficulties as rapidly and efficiently as the Comstock. The great loss has 
been in the treatment of the ores. If a vein is in a favorable locality for work- 
ing, has ore of sufficient richness to pay when worked in quantity, has the proper 
thickness, and is traced on the surface the requisite distance, is opened in depth 
so as to show a body of ore, and has the same strike, dip, and general appear- 
ance of other good veins in that immediate vicinity, and is in range of a good 
mine, there can be little doubt of its value. 

Product of Idaho. — One of the difficulties attending the collection of relia- 
ble statistics on suljjects connected with the value and yield of mines, is the 
proneness of interested parties to furnish exaggerated data for speculative pur- 
poses. With the most earnest desire to do justice .to individuals and companies 
wdiose labor and capital are invested in mining enterprises, it is extremely diffi- 
cult to avoid doing injustice to the public. No government agent can determine 
with certainty how far the figures furnished b}^ the superintendents and subordi- 
nate officers are to be relied iipon; aud it is impossible to verify statements 
involving detailed operations and results which have taken place beyond the 
limits of personal knoAvledge. Thus, the report of the New York and Owyl.'ee 
Company for March, 1867, shoAvs a very favorable condition of things at the 
Poorman. A letter from Ncav York, dated in October and published in a late 
number of the Oregoniau, says : " New York and OAvyhee Companies' stock, 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNT:a[INS. 



535 



wliicli, soon after tlie purchase from Bradford last spring of the conflicting intei^ 
ests in the Poorman mine, was ciiiTently rated at 80 to 90 cents on the dollar, 
Las for the past three weeks been going down. It was sold last week at 25 
cents, and to-day we have heard it otlered at 10 cents. How long can this com- 
pany afford to pay $35,000 per annum in salaiies to a few officers and employes 
at this rate ? Or are some few of the large stockholders and knowing ones trying a 
freezing-out process ? These are samples of the general condition of Idaho mat- 
ters in this city. Ex uno dlsce omncs." The correspondent of the Oregonian 
refers to a similar state of things in reference to the Yuba and Atlanta district. 
It is quite possible there is either prejudice or personal interest in this statement. 
Various causes already referred to have retarded the development of the Yuba 
and Atlanta mines ; and no greater credit should be attached to the assertions 
of an anonymous letter-writer than to the reports of parties known to be inter- 
ested. The richness of the Poorman mine has been well established ; whether 
it has been or now is remunerative or judiciously managed, the stockholders must 
determine for themselves. These conflicting statements are referred to for the 
purpose of showing how difficult it is to avoid error. Mr'robably the best crite- 
rion of the yield of the Idaho mines in the aggregate is to be found in the state- 
ments furnished by the agent of Wells, Fargo & Co. at Portland, and the office 
at San Francisco. From this source it appears that the shipments to San Fran- 
cisco of gold and silver bullion received from Idaho, and inclusive of the receipts 
from the John Da}', Powder river, and Washington Territory placers bordering 
on the Columbia, were as follows during the past four years, viz : 





18G4. 


1865. 


1866. 


1867. 




$6, 223, 000 
1, 244, 600 


$5,814,000 
1, 162, 800 


$5, 443, COO 
1, 086 600 


$4, 842, 036 
968, 406 


Add 10 per cent., the amount estimated to be shipped by 
<)ther parties, and 10 per cent. , the probable amount 






7, 407, GOO 
1, 493, 520 


6,976,800 
1, 395, 360 


6, 529, 600 
1, 305, 920 


5, 810, 442 
1 162 088 






Add for amounts probably taken out of Idaho by express 


5, 974, 080 
500, 000 


5, 581, 440 
1,000,000 


5,223,680 
2, 800, 000 


4, 648, 354 
1, 352, 000 




Total 


6, 474, C80 


6,581,440 


8, 023, 680 


6, COO, 354 





It is not pretended that these statements and estimates are entirely reliable, 
but they are certainty worthy of greater credence than unsupported individual 
assertions. The allowances made for shipments by way of the Hill Beachy 
route through Nevada are deemed amply sufficient, taking into view that very 
little treasure was shipped out of Idaho, except by the Avay of Portland, until 
the past year, owing to Indian depredations. ]\Iany believe that the miners carry 
out of the Territory more of the precious metals than is taken by the express 
companies. If this be the case what becomes of the treasure ? The same belief 
is entertained in reference to the product of Montana. Where does the alleged 
$40,000,000 produced by Idaho and Montana go to 1 The report of the Director 
of the Mint shows that the total deposits of gold and silver of domestic produc- 
tion from all sources during the fiscal year ending June 30, 1867, were as fol- 
lows: gold, $30,805,748 54 ; silver, $1,056,680 39 ; total, $31,862,429 93. The 
amount of bullion exported from San Francisco to foreign ports during the year 
ending December 31, 1SG7, was $18,320,818 71 ; to New York, $23,355,903 45; 
foreign and domestic, $41,676,722 16 ; add estimated home shipments by United 
States assistant treasurer, $6,000,000 ; total, $47,676,722 16. The total amount 
of bullion upon which the internal revenue tax was collected, as stated by the 
Commissioner of Internal Revenue, dm'ing the calendar year ending December 
31, 1867, was $58,175,047. 



536 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

If we allow the product of Idalio and Montana to be, as claimed by many, 
$20,000,000 each, what becomes of the #25,000,000 of gold produced by Cali- 
fornia and the $20,000,000 of gold and silver producedby Nevada, for nearly 
all of which we have the direct returns of the express companies ? 

I am inclined to the opinion that the product of Idaho for 1867 is but little 
if at all over the amount stated in the table above given ; but to guard against 
injustice a small percentage is added, making the total product $0,500,000. The 
yield of Montana for 1867 is estimated to be $12,000,000, and it is confidently 
believed this is not below the actual amount produced. If we once open the 
way to conjecture by accepting the statement that the miners carry away more 
treasure in their pockets than the express companies carry in their boxes, by 
what means are we to arrive at the amount, or at what point is the limit to be 
fixed ? In the absence of proof to the contrary it is reasonable to suppose that 
the danger of robbery is too great to justify the practice among miners, as a 
general rule, of incm-ring such extraordinary risks to evade the payment of ordi- 
nary express charges which secure their earnings from the chances of loss. Small 
amounts doubtless are carried out in the pockets of individual miners ; but none 
of the leading companies working on any considerable scale are apt to incur such 
risks. It is more than probable that the amount supposed to SAvell the aggre- 
gate production in this way is greatly exaggerated. On the other hand it is the 
interest of the express agents to magnify the dangers of robbery, and encourage 
the belief that prudential considerations are in their favor, and all legitimate 
business is carried through their hands. Between the efforts of the company to 
monopolize the carrying business, and the indisposition of the miners to incur 
expense when it can be avoided, it is difficult to arrive at an equitable conclu- 
sion. The estimates, therefore, may be far from the truth, but we must rely 
upon the only available data in preference to mere conjecture. When it comes 
to a test of the proportion derived from each mine, the statistician is utterly 
without data, except such as he can obtain from the officers of the company. ^ 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 537 

WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

SECTION I. 
GEOGEAPHICAL MEMOIR. 

Until tlie recent valuable and important acquisition of Russian America, Wash- 
ington Territory was the extreme laorthwestern division of the United States. 
Tlie Columbia river, to its intersection by the 46th parallel north, and that paral- 
lel continued eastward to its intersection of the Snake river, mark the southern 
boundary and separate it from the State of Oregon. The Snake river to its 
confluence with the Clearwater, (Kooskooskie,) and a line due north from the 
mouth of the latter river to the 49th parallel, bound it on the east and sepa- 
rate it from Idaho. The north and northwest boundaries are defined by the 
Treaty of Limits between the United States and Great Britain, (.June 15, 1846,) 
and are ^' westward along the said 49th parallel of north latitude to the middle 
of the channel* which separates the continent from Vancouver Island, and thence 
southerly through the middle of the said channel and of Fuca's straits to the 
Pacific ocean." On its west is the Pacific. Its area closely approximates to 
70,000 square miles. 

The special natural features of the Territory, common to it as a whole, are the 
Cascade range of mountains, and the great river of the West, the Columbia, 
which, first traversing its whole breadth and setting off nearly a third of its area, 
forms a southern boundary and drains the remaining two-thirds of the Territory. 

The Cascade Mountains. — The continuous range of mountains known as 
the Sierra Nevada in California, bears the name of Cascade range through 
Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia. The name originates from the 
numerous beautiful cascades which poxw from every crevice, at every height, and 
sometimes even from the top of the steep bluff sides of the gorge in these moun- 
tains through which the mighty Columbia forces its way to pour its volume of 
water into the Pacific ocean. With the exception of the lofty snow-peaks, 
Ranier, St. Helen's, Baker, and Adams, but few points in this Territory attain 
an elevation above the snow-line, about 5,000 feet. Estimates have been made 
of the altitude of several of these peaks, but they have either diminished in 
height or else were over measured. The humiliation of the lofty Mount Hood 
by barometric measurement to two-thirds of its former accredited proud altitude, 
discourages the assertion of claim for the majestic Ranier, and estimated alti- 
tudes are omitted. 

The range as it passes through this Territory bears slightly northwest and 
southeast. Several rivers passing through or taking their rise in these moun- 
tains afford eligible passes for the construction of roads. Among these may be 
named the Skagit River pass, Cady's pass, or that following the Skywamish, the 
northern confluent of the Snohomish river ; the Snoqualmie pass, or that follow- 
ing the river of that name ; Cedar River, or Yakima pass, long improperly called 
Snoqualmie pass ; the Nachess pass, the Nisqually, and the Cowlitz passes. The 
exploration of several of these passes is now in progress, (fall, 1867,) under the 

* Two channels, the Canal de Ilaro and Rosario straits, between which are the islands of 
San Juan and the Archipelago de Haro, separate the continent from Vancouver island. The 
former is the boldest and most direct, and secures what the treaty evidently intended : instead 
of running the 4iJth parallel west to the ocean, which would have given the south end of 
"Vancouver island to the United States, the latter yielded the whole island to Great Britain, 
with the free navigation of the straits and channel. The sovereignty of San Juan and the 
islands of the Archipelago are in dispute ; the boundary and area of Washington Territory 
are in doubt. San Juan island is garrisoned by troops of both nations, their police jurisdic- 
tion extending midway between the two camps. The laws of the Territory for the time being 
are suspended in the islands west of Rosario straits. 



538 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

auspices of the Nortliern Pacific Eailroad Comjiaiiy. The work lias been 
intrusted to the efficient management of General James Tilton, civil engineer, 
formerly surveyor general of the Territorj-, and a report of the results will be 
Bubmitted to Congress at its coming session, (winter, 1867-8.) As accurate instru- 
mental measurement is the only satisfactory demonstration of the eligibility of 
these passes as lines of communication, it is useless to anticipate authentic reports 
by approximate estimates. It is proper, however, to add that in 1854 a con- 
gressional appropriation of $20,000 Avas expended on a road from Wallula to 
Fort Steilacoom via the Nachess pass, and that quite an emigration came over it 
that fall, with wagons. The Indian war commencing the fall of the subsequent 
year, the road was but little used. Much fallen timber is now an obstruction to 
its travel, and the freshets of some of the mountain streams have seriously dam- 
aged the river crossings and the portions of road on the banks of such rivers. 
Quite an appropriation would be required to make this a feasible road. The alti- 
tude of the Snoqualmie pass is 3,130 feet. The ascent upon the western slope 
is gradual to within three miles of the summit, when the rise is sudden and abrupt, 
it being nearly 900 feet in the last three miles. It is pronounced an admirable 
pass for a wagon road, but for railroad purposes tunnelling would be necessary. 
The citizens of King county, with commendable enterprise, have opened a wagon 
road from Seattle to the Yakima val]e3^ A small appropriation by Congress, 
judiciously expended, would make this road a great and practicable thoroughfare 
connecting Puget sound Avith the upper Columbia basin, Idaho and Montana 
Territories. Parties who have ex^ilored Cady's pass and the Cowlitz pass* pro- 
nounce them entirely free from any great difficulty, and requiring but little 
expense and labor, comparatively, to secm-e good mountain roads. In all of these 
passes the approaches are reported as of gradual ascent, and the altitudes of the 
summits much loAver than the surrounding hills. 

The Columbia mvek, which forms so large a portion of the south l:>oundary 
of the Territory, and tlien traverses its Avhole breadth from south to north, forms 
a main artery for travel and transportation from the coast to the great interior, 
and in the present undeveloped state of roads f/rt the Cascade mountains, affords 
the channel of communication between the inhabitants separated by that moun- 
tain chain. It rises in the Rocky mountains, in latitude 50° 20' north, flows 
northerly as high as 52° 10', receiving Canoe river, which has its source just 
under the 53d degree. The Columbia. then deflects sharply to the southward, 
expanding in 51° north into a chain of small lakes, receiving the waters of the 
Kootenai in 49° 30'. Just under the 49th parallel the Pen d'Oreille, the great 
north fork, (Clarke's,) pours its waters into it; then flownig southward, the Spokane 
river empties into it, and it turns almost due west, the Okinakano flowing into it 
from the north. Still bending slightly south of west, several tributaries from 
the Cascade mountains, the principal of Avhich are the Mctliow, Chelan, Enteathwa, 
and Wenachec, contribute their waters, when it turns southeastwardly, receives 
the Yakima, and then joins with its great southern (Lewis) fork, now called 
Snake river. Flowing then almost due south a short distance to the mouth of 
the Walla- Walla river, it turns abruptl}^ to the west, and with a generally west- 
erly course flows into Pacific ocean, its volume still increasing from several rivers 
from the soutli, and some on the Washington side. The southernmost tributary 
of its most important confluent, the Snake river, has its rise as low as latitude 

■* Since the preparation of the above, the party engaged in the exploration of the Cowlitz, 
or Nisqually pass, have returned. This pass lies between and connects the headwaters of 
the Nisqually and Nachess rivers, which tiow in opposite directions from the immediate 
south base of Mount IJanier. The altitude of the summit will slightly exceed 3,000 feet. 
By a line of levels run by said party this pass can bo surmounted by a grade of 65 feet per 
mile, ascending from the west, and a descending grade of 45 feet on the eastern slope. From 
the character of the country, the western ascent can be so distributed that in 56 miles of road 
a grade not to exceed 50 feet per mile can be secured. The direct line to the summit, after 
leaving the headwaters of the Cowlitz river, is but 16 or 18 miles. 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 539 

41° nortli. The easternmost sources of tlie two main forks are in close proximity 
to tlie lieaclwaters of tlie Missouri, as far east as longitude 111° west of Green- 
wicli. Its mouth is in 124° west longitude. Thus it will bo seen that this vast 
river and its tributaries water and permeate a region embracing 12 degrees of 
latitude by 13 degrees of longitude. Its great importance must be conceded, 
when the statement is made that a land portage of only 450 miles is required to 
connect the navigable waters of the Missouri and Columbia rivers. 

Navigability of the Columbia. — From the mouth of the river to the lower 
Cascades, 160 miles, no obstructions occur to navigation. Sea steamers of heavy 
draught constantly go to Vancouver, 115 miles from the mouth. By a portage at 
the Cascades (the railroad is six miles in length) navigation is open to the Dalles, 
(205 miles from ocean.) Several miles of portage are here required to avoid 
rapids and falls,* when good navigation is again secured to Priest's rapids, (385 
miles from ocean.) Three miles of portage avoids the difficulties at Priest's 
rapids, when a stretch of good navigable water is secured to Bucldand's rapids, 
(451 miles from ocean.) At the mouth of Metliow another interruption occurs, 
after which the navigation is practicable to Kettle falls, a distance from the 
mouth of 725 miles. At high stages of water, say between May 10 and July 
15, steamboats can ascend from the portage above the Dalles to Kettle falls. 
The big bend in the Columbia, however, extends the distance so greath^, that 
White Bluffs, or a point even east of that, must be practically regarded as the 
head of navigation. A road from such point nearly due north would again strike 
the river near the 49th parallel, and the river again could be navigated for a 
distance of over 150 miles, into the very heari of the richest minitig regions of 
British Columbia. Again, connecting by road the mouth of the Walla- Walla 
river with the mouth of the Powder river, (a tributary of the Snake,) a reach of 
over 100 miles in Snake river is navigable for steamers. 

Natural Divisions of Washington Tekritobt. — The Cascade moun- 
tains, varying but little from a north and south course, traverse the Territory at 
an average distance from the Pacific coast of little over two degrees of longi- 
tude, separating the Puget Sound basin and the region watered by the lower 
Columbia and its northern tributaries from the basin of the Coh.unbia river. The 
portion east of the Cascades is not very unequally divided l)y the Columbia river. 
Three natural divisions are thus constituted. Western Washington finds its 
synonym in the Puget sound country. Central Washington has attained the 
name of the Yakima Valley. Eastern Washington is variously termed the Upper 
Country, sometimes the Walla- Walla Valley, and Spokane Plains ; frequently 
"Colville" is made to emltrace a large section of countrv.t 

Western AVashington includes the Puget Sound basin, the valley of the 
Chehalis, the basin of Shoalwater bay, and the country drained by the lower 
Columbia and its northern tributaries, the principal of which is the Cowlitz. 
Ridges, spurs of the Cascade and Coast ranges of mountains, clearly demarcate 
these several sub-divisions, and a diversity of soil, products, and geological con- 
formation ascribe distinctive features to each. 

And first of the great inland sea, Puget sound, which, though properly the 
smallest sub-division of these Avaters, has become the general cognomen of that 
vast ramification of waters to which have been given, by illustrious navigators, 
the names of Strait of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty inlet, Hood's canal, and Puget 
sound, together with the almost innumerable bays, harbors, and inlets, each 
enjoying a separate name, and many of Avhicli Avould afford commodious and 
adequate harbor for the combined navies of the world. Admiral Charles Wilkes, 

* The Oregon Steam Navigation Company have in successful operation a raih'oad from 
Dalles to Celilo, 1.') miles in length, avoiding the rapids and falls, though a much less portage, 
if broken, was requisite. 

t See Navigable Rivers of Oregon. 



540 



EESOURCES< OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



(then lieutenant United States navy,) in 1841, in the vahiable narrative of the 
United States Exploring- Expedition, of which he was commander, after a minute 
description of these waters, thus sums up : 

NotlliiJg can exceed the beauty of these waters and their safety. Not a shoal exists within 
the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty inlet, or Hood's canal, that can in any way interrupt 
their navigation by a 74-gun ship. I venture nothing in saying there is no country in the 
world that possesses waters equal to these. They cover an area of a)>out'2,000 square miles. 
The shores of all these inlets and bays are remarkably bold ; so much so that in many places 
a ship's side would strike the shore before the keel would touch the ground. The country 
by which these waters arc surrounded is remarkably salubrious, and offers every advantage 
for the accommodation of a vast commercial and military marine, with convenience for docks, 
and a great many sites for towns and cities ; at all times well supplied with water, and 
capable of being provided with everything by the surrounding country, which is well adapted 
for agriculture. 

The Straits of Juan de Fuca are 95 miles in length, and have an average width of 11 
miles. At the entrance (eight miles in width) no danger exists, and it may be safelj'^ navi- 
gated throughout. No part of the world affords finer inland sounds, or a greater number of 
harbors, than are found within the Straits of Juan de Fuca, capable of receiving the largest 
class of vessels, and without a danger in them which is n(»t visible. From the rise and fall 
of the tides (18 feet) every facility is oftered for the erection of works for a great maritime 
nation. The country also affords as many sites for water-power as any other. 

To furnish a better idea of these waters, and their extent, we append a tabular 
statement of the sliore line, prepared by James S. Lawson, esq., the efficient 
assistant of the United States Coast Survey, now employed in making a survey 
thereof: 



Shore-line of tlic Straits of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty inlet, Puget sound, Hood's 
canal, S^c, ^"c, WdsJiington Territory. 



1. STRAITS OF JUAN DE FUCA. 

From Cape Matterv to Ft. Partridge, 
Ft. Wilson -■■ 



161 



II. ROSARIO STRAITS, CANAL DE IIAROj 
GULF OF GEORGIA, ETC. 

East side of Whidby's island 79. 

West side of Whidby's island, Ft. Par- 
tridge to Deception Pass 14.0 

McDonough's island 41.0 

Main shore. Ft. Gardner to 49th parallel 128.5 

I' idulgo island 56 .0 

Allan's and Barrow's islands " 5 

Gueme's island 10.5 

Cypress, Sinclair, Vendovia & Jack's 

islands 26.0 

Lnmmi and Eliza islands 25. 

liopez island 34, 5 

Decatur island 11.0 

James' island 4.5 

Blakely island 9. 5 

Frost island 1.5 

San Juan island 40. 

Sbaw's island 13. 

Obstruction island 2. 7 

Orcas island 57. 

Jones' island 3. 8 

Henry island 5.8 

Speeden island 5.7 

John's island 4.0 

Stuart's island 6.0 

Waldron island 8. 5 

Various small islands 26. 



627.0 



III. ADMIRALTY INLET. 

(Commencing at line Ft. Partridge, Ft. Wil- 
son to Puget sound.) 

Miles. 

Ft. Defiance to Possession sound 67.5 

Possession sound to Ft. Partridge 34. 5 

Blake island 4 

Gig Harbor to Foulweather Bluff .... 102. 

Bainbridge island 31.0 

Port Ludlow to Ft. Wilson 48. 

Vashon island 47. 



334.0 



IV. PUGET SOUND. 

(Commencing at line joining Ft. Defiance and 

Gig Harbor — embracing all south.) 
Main shore, east side, Ft. Defiance to 

Oly nipia 49. 

Main shore, west side, Gig Harbor to 

Olympia 168.0 

Day's island 1.3 

Hope island 1.3 

10.5 

Herron island 3. 

Stretch 4.0 

Anderson 15. 5 

McNeil 10.4 

Kitsou 3.0 

Fox island 11.5 

AUshouse island 2. 5 



280.0 



V. hood's CANAL 192.0 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 541 

RECAPITULATION. 

I. Straits of JuandeFuca J61.0 

II. Rosario straits, Canal de Haro, Gulf of Georgia, &c 627. 

III. Admiralty inlet - 334.0 

IV. Puget sound 280.0 

V. Hood'scanal - ]92.0 

Total shore line I,ri94. 

Bats axd IIakbors. — Neah bay is just inside of Cape Flattery, a harbor 
affording partial shelter for vessels. The anchorage is good, but there is no pro- 
tection from northwest winds. It is a mere indentation of the coast, and was 
called by the early fur traders Povert}'- Cove. It is now universally called by 
its original Indian name. About 25 miles east of Cape Flattery is Callam bay, 
Avhere a California company is now engaged in taking out coal. Port Angeles, 
farther east, was the site for a while of the custom-house of this district ; an admi- 
rable harbor after a vessel got into it, and difficult to leave without wind, tide, 
and other favorable circumstances. It lies immediately opposite to Victoria, and 
not very distant from the entrance of the strait — two circumstances supposed to 
control the location of custom-houses, regardless entirely of the interests of ship- 
ping. A small town grew up there, but it has not improved much since tlie cus- 
tom-house was retransferred to its former location at Port Townscnd. 

Port Discovery, Port Townsend, Port Ludlow, Port Madison, Port Gamble, 
Port Blakely, Dwarnish or Elliott's bay, Bellingham bay, and many others, 
each worthy of distinct notice, having become the sites of flourishing towns, exten- 
sive milling or mining operations, and as such, so many centres of population, 
must be referred to hereafter in the recital of the material resources of the Ter- 
ritory, and the chronicle of the progress of settlement — a progress enhanced in 
many instances by natural advantages. 

The Straits of Juan de Fuca terminate at Point Wilson and Point Partridge. 
Admiralty inlet lies between the strait and Puget sound, and is separated from 
the latter by the narrows, a mile in width and about four and a half miles long, 
on both sides of which are high perpendicular bluffs, the northeast terminus of 
which is called Point Defiance, which has been reserved for fortifications. In 
the naiTows the tide runs with great velocity', and a reference to the map exhib- 
iting this narrow channel or dalles through which this vast body of Avater flows 
and reflows twice every 24 hours, will readily account for that fact. 

EiVEES Emptying into Puget Sound. — Adopting the vernacular of the 
countr}', and ascribing the name Puget sound to this Mediterranean of the north 
Pacific, we will commence on the east shore, at the northern boundary, and follow 
round. 

The Lummi river rises in the Cascade range, northeast of Mount Baker, and 
flowing in a southwest direction receives the Nook-sack from the southeast, and 
empties into Bellingham bay. It is a large, deep and rapid river. Much excel- 
lent agricultural and grazing lands border both of these streams, and settlements 
to a very limited extent have been commenced. On these streams the color can 
be obtained anywhere, but at the head waters of the Nook-sack coarse gold has 
been found, some specimens being nearly as large as a pea. The dense nnder- 
growth in the river bottoms, but more probably the disgust following the Frazer 
river excitement, has created that apathy among the citizens of Whatcom which 
has heretofore prevented a thorough prospect from being made. 

The small river or creek, Whatcom, gives name to the town through which it 
passes. It affords excellent water power, and at its mouth is located the saw-mill 
of Mr. Henry Reeder, now a. member of the legislative assembly from that county. 

Next south is the Swinamish, rising in the Cascades and emptying into Belling- 
ham bay. The Swinamish is more properly a pass connecting two parts of the 
channel. Next south is the Skagit river, rising in the Cascade range, north of 



542 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

the 49 til parallel, and emptying into Port Susan by several mouths. For some 
six miles its navigation is obstructed by large drifts of logs, the collection of 
years, above Avhicli it can be navigated some 50 miles. The valley of the Skagit 
has already become noted for its extensive and rich agricultural lands. A few 
settler^ have already taken claims. The timber consists of cedar, spruce, fir, 
&c., upon the uplands, and alder, maple, and Cottonwood in the bottoms. With 
ittle expense the drifts at its mouth could be removed, and a fine valley extend- 
ing some 60 miles into the interior, affording excellent farms for many, would 
he opened to settlement. 

The Stit-a-quamish also empties into Port Susan. The timber which skirts 
is banks is very valuable. Traces indicate the presence of extensive coal beds 
about 20 miles from its mouth. No attempt, however, has yet been made 
to develop them. The mouth of this river is obstructed with timber drifts, 
which removed, navigation for scows, rafts, or boats of light draught could be 
secured for 25 miles. One or two inconsiderable streams How southeast into the 
sound, when we come to the Snohomish, which empties abreast the south end 
of Whidby's island. About 18 miles from its mouth it divides into two confluent 
streams, the north being called the Sky-wamish, and the south fork the Sno- 
qualmie. At the mouth of the Snohomish are extensive cranberry marshes. 
Like most of the rivers emptying into the sound, tide flats stretch for considerable 
distance across the mouth of the stream, permeated by numerous channels. At 
high water there is no difliculty of entrance, but when the tide is out the channel 
must be strictly followed. After entering the river the banks become higher. 
Diu-ing the annual freshet its highest banks are subject to overflow. The aver- 
age width of this stream is about 90 yards, with tolerable deep Avater. On this 
river and both of its confluents there is a large quantity of first-rate agricultural 
land. An intelligent visitor writes : 

There are in some places large tracts of land, with scarcely a stick of timber standing, 
possessing a soil as rich as any farmer could desire, while the rich bottom lands, covered 
•with a light growth of vine maple and alder, appear to say, "come and till me, and you 
shall be well rewarded." In fact, I have no hesitation in saying that the country watered 
by the Snohomish and Snoqualmie will at no distant day bo thickly settled by those who 
will reap a rich reward for their labor. 

The Snohomish and Snoqualmie are navigable for steamers of light draught 
at all stages of water to within a few miles of the falls on the latter river. The 
falls of Snoqualmie are about 35 miles from the confluence of that river with 
the Snohomish. At the lowest stage of Avatcr tlie width of the falls will hardly 
exceed 10 yards, but when the river is full it amplifies to about 75 yards. By 
recent measurement of General Tilton, chief engineer Pacific division Northern 
Pacific railroad, the perpendicular descent is 270 feet. Beyond the falls are 
several rich prairies of considerable extent. Following the headwaters of this 
interesting river, we approach the Snoqualmie pass. Following the north con- 
fluent of the Snohomish, (the Sk3'wamish,) we find Cady's pass, pronounced by 
several explorers equal in all respects to its neighbor, the Snoqualmie pass. 

The next river of note is the Dwamish, entering the bay of that name, 
(sometimes called Elliott's bay,) on which the flourishing town of Seattle is 
located. The Dwamish has two principal confluents. White and Green rivers, 
both of which have historic importance from being the headquarters of the hos- 
tile bands of Indians in the war of 1855-'5G. The flourishing settlement upon 
the former was for a time wiped out after the horrible massacre of October 28, 
1855, in which 11 unoffending white settlers, men, women, and children, were 
surprised at early dawn, murdered, and their bodies shockingly mutilated. The 
&avao"es carried off such property as was valuable, and then wantonl}^ burned 
liie remainder, together wdth the dwellings. Some of the bodies were burned, 
and others were thrown into the wells. 

Lake Dwamish, or Lake Washington, lies back of the town of Seattle. Its 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 543 

outlet, about four and a lialf miles long-, called Black river, empties into tlie 
Dwamisli river. Black river, about half a mile from the lake, receives the 
waters of Cedar river, which takes its rise in the Cascade mountains, a short 
distance south of the headwaters of the Snoqualmie. The Cedar River pass, now 
called the Yakima pass, was long confounded with the Snoqualmie pass, (from 
which it .is between five and seven miles distant,) from the fact that it was tra- 
versed by Snoqualmie Indians. Following the north tributaries of the While 
river to their source, a short distance brings us to the headwaters of the Na- 
chess, a tributary of the Yakima. The valleys of these two streams are the 
depression to Avhich the name of Nachess pass has been given, over Avhich the 
military road was constructed by Lieutenant Richard Arnold, United States 
army, irom Fort Walla-Walla to Fort Steilacoom. An extensive and rich agri- 
cultural region is found in the valleys of all these rivers, and is fast filling with 
settlers. Inland navigation to the extent of 30 miles is afforded by the Dwam- 
isli and W^hite rivers, the tide extending up the former some 14 miles. On the 
Black river a vein of coal Avas opened and Avorked by the late Dr. Bigelow, and 
a cargo shipped to San Francisco as early as 1854. 

The Puyallup river rises north of Mount Ranier, runs northeasterly, and 
empties into Commencement ba3\ It is a fine stream, and by the removal of 
two or three drifts would be rendered navigable for vessels of light draught to the 
mouth of the Stuck, which empties into it. At its mouth (Commencement ba}') 
there is an excellent harbor, where shipping can load with hay, produce, or lum- 
ber. The valleys of the PuA^allup and Stuck afford a large quantity of good 
agricultural land. The soil in the river bottoms is generally very good, much 
of it first rate. There is considerable prairie in the vicinity, but mostly occupied 
by settlers. The bottoms are thinly timbered Avith maple, ash, balm, AvilloAV, 
&c., and easily cleared. These lands yield licax^y crops of Avheat, barley, oats, 
and even corn has succeeded Avell. Vegetables attain an enormous size. The 
highlands are generally rolling and well adajited to cultivation, llie several 
tributaries of the Puyallup supply a considerable amount of excellent Avater- 
poAvcr. Although this A^alley is covered by the claim of the Puget Sound Agri- 
cultural Company, that circumstance has not deterred American settlers from 
occupying and improving it. 

The Nisqually river rises south of Mount Ranier, and at its mouth is the site 
of Fort Nisqually, a post of the Hudson Bay Company. That company, under 
the treaty-recognized alias of Puget Sound Agricultural Company, claim along 
the shores of Puget sound from Nisqually river to Pu3'allup riA^er, back to the 
Cascade mountains, amounting to 261 square miles, or 167,040 acres. The 
prairies in the vicinity are called the Nisqually plains, supposed by many to be 
valuable for pasturage. The best portions haA^e been taken as claims by Amer- 
ican settlers, Avho have no very high opinion of a corporation without a charter, 
or a claim to land based upon neither occupancy, pm'chase, nor possession, except 
in the few spots dotted here and there formerly occupied by their herdsmen or 
farmers, Avhere but little improvement or culti\'ation has been attempted. In 
fact, but a trifling portion Avas ever used, CA^en as a range for cattle, horses, and 
sheep. It is well Avorthy of remark that just before the treaty of June 15, 1846, 
Oregon then being jointly occupied, under the treaty of 1827, by American set- 
tlers and the numerous establishments of the Hudson's Bay Company, the offi- 
cers of the latter consented to co-operate Avith the former in the support of the 
provisional government of Oregon, proAdded the company could be secured in 
their occupancy of lands at their several posts. To effect this, a section called 
the •^partnership section" Avas incorporated into the land laAV and made a part 
of the compact or constitution. This compact was ratified by the residents of 
Oregon (British and American) July 5, 1845. Under its provisions the company 
recorded their claim at Nisqually as containing 17 sections, or 10,880 acres. 
And yet under the treaty, ratified within a few months of the time at Avhich they 



544 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tliemselvcs designated the extent of that tract, tliey now assert a claim to having 
occupied 167,040 acres. 

Next is the Des Chutes river, which empties into Budd's inlet, the extreme 
head of Puget sound, about two miles from Olympia, the capital of the Terri- 
tory. ■ Its mouth, named Tumwater, is not only notable for its extensive and 
valuable water-power, but also from the fact that here Colonel M. T. Simmons, 
the pioneer American settler north of the Columbia river, located his claim in the 
fall of 1845. 

Several small streams empty into the west side of the sound, but the first 
river to be mentioned is the Skokcinish, Avhich empties into the elbow of Hood's 
canal, 28 miles northweet of Olympia. This river is formed by two confluents 
called the North and South forks, taking their rise in the Coast range of moun- 
tains and coming together about 10 miles from the mouth of the main river. 
Upon removing the customary obstruction of collected driftwood, the main stream 
is navigalde its entire length. The Skokomish valley varies from one to three 
miles in width, with a soil equal to the best bottom land in the western States. 
The growth in tlie bottoms consists of alder and vine maple. Union City has been 
started near the mouth, and several claims have been taken. A great quantity 
of very desirable land is still vacant. Information derived from surveying par- 
ties justifies the statement that the land upon the forks is similar to that npon 
the river. The average yield to the acre in this valley is as follows : Potatoes, 
600 bushels ; wheat, 40 bushels ; peas, 60 bushels ; timothy hay, five tons ; oats, 
70 bushels. 

Into Hood's canal, at different points, from 5 to 30 miles below the mouth of 
the Skokomish, several streams empty, the valleys of which are marked by the 
same general features as that of the Skokomish. The good lands are not, how- 
ever, in such extensive bodies as to invite large settlement. 

Along the southern shore of the strait of Puca several streams empty, which 
take their rise in the Coast range of mountains. The principal of these are the 
Dungeness and Elwha, the valleys of both of which are fine agricultural lands. 
The former is fully settled, and several farms have been taken upon the latter. 

RiVEES AKD Bats ox the Pacific Coast. — Passing down the coast from 
Cape Flattery, at the distance of 28 miles is the mouth of the Quillehute river. 
It varies in widtli from 50 to 200 yards, and in depth from 8 to 12 feet. Rapids 
occur at the distance of three or four miles from its mouth, but canoes ascend for 
many miles. Four or five miles back from the river is the Cammas prairie, five 
miles long and about three-fourths of a mile wide. The country is well adapted 
to grazing and cultivation, and there is but one sharp hill to interfere with open- 
ing a good road from the valley of this river to the straits of Fuca, At the 
mouth of this river the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's steamer Southerner 
(the old Isthmus) was wrecked December 24, 1854. During the present sum- 
mer D. F. Brownfield and several others, cutting out a trail from the river to 
the straits, while following one of the small tributary streams of the Quille- 
hute, discovered a ledge of rock indicating the presence of silver. Specimens 
of the rock, in an imperfect assay made by Dr. Albert Eggers, of Olympia, 
showed gold and iron, the former amounting to $9 per ton. lu other specimens, 
tested by Dr. O'Brien, of Port Townsend, traces of silver w^ere apparent. Mr. 
Brownfield, Avho went through from the straits to the mouth of the river, describes 
the region west of the Olympic range as generally level, extremely fertile, and 
interspersed with prairies containing from 500 to 2,500 acres. The bottom lands 
of the Quillehute arc not only extensive but well adapted- to agriculture. 

Quenuilt river, a small stream which heads in a lake at the foot of the Coast 
range, empties into the ocean about four miles north of Point Grenville. In its 
vicinity are the Indians whose tribal name is ascribed to it, noted in the early 
history of this coast for hostility to the whites. Such names as Destruction 
Island and Ponta de Martires, designating localities in this vicinity, are the tes- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 545 

■tiraonials of their perfidious cruelty, the evidence of their original character. 
This river gives name to a variety of salmon, as yet not found in any other 
locality. . They are short, thick, and very fat, and are the most delicious variety 
of the numerous family of salmonidce which abound in all the waters of this 
Ten-itory. 

There are several other small streams rising in the Coast range, and generally 
flowing southwest, empty into this portion of the coast. But nothing is reliably 
known of this section of the country after leaving the coast. 

Gray's Harbor and the Valley Watered by the Chehalis and its 
Tributaries. — Gray's harbor, discovered by Captain Robert Gray, of Boston, 
in the ship Columbia, May 7, 1792, and by him named Bulfinch harbor, is atri- 
ajigular-shaped bay with base toward the ocean, and the apex receiving the Che- 
halis river. Its south point of entrance is called Chehalis Point ; Point Brown, 
the north cape, received that name from Lieutenant Wliidby, of the Vancouver 
expedition. A bank extends across the entrance, with a passage about three- 
fourths of a mile wide, carrying from 5 to 11 fathoms of water. Outside the 
bank is another narrow bar, with some three fathoms of water. From this point 
the depth increases toward the east, the deepest water being between the points 
of entrance. The bay is surrounded by mud flats, bare at low water. The mouth 
of the Chehalis nearly due east of the entrance is distant about 12 miles from 
Point Brown. The greatest width of the bay north and south is 15 miles, and 
its area is about 150 square miles. Competent judges have pronounced this har- 
bor equal in every respect to Boston harbor. The Um-tulup, Hokium, and other 
small streams empty directly into the bay. The main river, however, is the 
Chehalis, which rises in the Cascade mountains, not far north of the Columbia 
river, and south of the sources of several of the tributaries of the latter, flows 
northerly a considerable distance, when it takes almost a due westerly course, 
receiving a branch from the Boisfort hills, and finds its way into Gray's harbor. 
Its principal tributaries are the Satsop, Wynoochee, Westican, John's, Black, 
Skookum-chuck, and Newaukum. This valley is the richest and most extensive 
body of agricultural land west of the Cascade mountains. Indeed, Chehalis and 
Lewis counties, and the poi'tion of Thurston drained b}' these streams, may be 
pronounced the garden spot of Washington Territory. The valley varies in 
breadth from 15 to 50 miles. From the mouth of the Satsop through to Hood's 
canal, closed in by the Black Hills and the Coast range, there is a beautiful open 
valley some 14 or 15 miles wide. In fact, the whole country from the Chehalis 
to the head of the sound and the head of Hood's canal is well adapted to farm- 
ing purposes. Prairie land to the extent of 50,000 acres suited for grazing lies 
in the vicinity of Gray's harbor, and the rich bottoms skirting all these streams, 
covered with an undergrowth of alder, maple, &;c., so easily cleared, would fur- 
nish first-class faims for a vast number of settlers. 

The travel from Olymjiia to Chehalis Point has heretofore been by a road to 
the " block-house " on the Chehalis river, GO miles east of the point, and thence 
down the river in canoes, the total distance being about 90 miles. From the- 
mouth of the Satsop, (40 miles from Chehalis Point,) a road of 30 miles in length 
has just been opened, securing direct communication with Olympia, at the head 
of the sound. The Chehalis is navigable at all tides, for vessels of light draught 
or small river steamers, as far as the mouth of the Wynooche, and at high tide 
to the mouth of the Satsop, where there is a tidal rise and fall of 18 inches. At 
the lovi^est water, for tAvo and three months in the year, shoal places might obstract 
navigation ; but for eight months no difficulty need prevent ascending as far as 
Claquato, where the tenitorial road between Olympia and Monticello crosses 
the Chehalis river. The Messrs. Gofi', of Claquato, have just put on this river a 
good light-draught stern-wheel boat, and they express the assurance that they can 
make trips most of the year to Boisfort prairie, some miles above Claquato. All 
the streams abound with salmon, trout, and many varieties of edible fish. Elk 
35 



^546 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

and other game, large and small, are plentiful. Coal lias been discovered on 
the north side of the river, and also upon several of the tributary streams. 

Shoalwater Bat a:nd the Willopak Valley. — From Chehalis Point, 
the site of the embryo Chehalis City, a splendid beach at every stage of the tide 
affords the best of roads to Toke Point, the northern cape of the entrance to 
Shoalwater bay ; distance about 16 miles. Along this road a continuous tide 
prairie appears, constituted almost entirel}^ of sand, yet yielding the most excel- 
lent grass. Shoalwater bay, which is one of the best harbors between San 
Francisco and the Straits of Fuca, is in the southwest portion of the Ten'itory, 
separated from the Columbia river by a narrow strip of land. Toke Point lies 
about 28 miles north of Cape Disappointment. It is about five miles from Toke 
Point to the southern cape, (Leadbetter's Point.) Two channels with middle 
sands lying between afford good entrances, the north one being a good beating 
channel. The bay is full of shoals and flats, and at low tide about half its area 
is bare : good but narrow channels run throughout its extent, worn by the several 
streams which empty into it. These flats are covered with oysters, which con- 
stitute the chief article of export. Codfish, halibut, and sturgeon are abundant. 
Several varieties of salmon are also found, and in spring large shoals of small 
herring enter the bay. The annual shipments of oysters to San Francisco is 
about 3.5)5000 baskets; about 5,000 baskets more are sent to Portland, Oregon, 
and other points on the Columbia river. Mr. George Davidson, in his valuable 
" Directory of the Pacific Coast," thus states the extent of this bay : 

The arm stretching southward towards Baker's bay is 15 miles long from Leadbetter's 
Point, with an average width of not less than three and a half, while the upper portion stretches 
to the northeast for nine miles to the mouth of the Willopah river, reckoning from the middle 
of the line joining Cape Shoalwater (Toke Point) and Leadbetter Point. 

The same authority, speaking of the peninsula terminating in Leadbetter Point, 
thus describes it : 

The peninsula is a long, fiat, marshy, and sandy plain, elevated but a few feet above the 
level of the sea, and covered, like the entire surface of the country, with a dense growth of 
gigantic forest trees, principally sprucC; fir, and cedar, with a few specimens of maple, ash, 
and black alder. The spruce frequently attains a diameter of eight feet. 

Several rivers empty into this bay, among which are the Palux, Nasal, and 
Willopah. The principal one is the AVillopah, in the valley of which is a numerous 
and one of the oldest settlements in the Territory. Tlds river enters the bay 
at its northeast corner. The lower river is bordered with tide lands which are 
subject to overflow; the uplands are well adapted to grazing. It is a mile wide 
at its mouth. The tides extend to the rapids, 17 miles from the mouth. _ A con- 
siderable number of prairies skirt the river at intervals, and the bottom is a rich 
deep soil of a clayey character. The bottoms are covered with vine maple and 
alder, and extend above the rapids to a distance of about 20 miles, and are about 
10 miles in width. 

The Washington Tributaries to the Lower Columbia. — The mouth 
of the Columbia is now reached. An extended notice of this river has already 
been made, and the reference to settlements along its shores will necessarily 
exhibit fiirther features of the countiy bordering upon it. The same may be said 
of the streams flowing into it from the north, a ])articular description of several 
of which will be omitted. The Cowlitz river being a part of the line of travel 
from Columbia river to Puget sound, deserves particular mention. This river 
having its source in the Cascade mountains, between Mounts Ranier and St. 
.Helen's, runs west, then south, and empties into the Columbia about 50 miles 
from its mouth. It runs the whole length of Cowlitz county, and nearly the 
whole breadth of Lewis, through good agricultural land, both prairie and bottom. 
The Cowlitz farms, the Cowlitz prairie, and the Cowlitz landing are familiar as 
■ household words, and date their origin long antecedent to the commencement of 
-American settlement. The first name alludes to the claim of the prairie by the 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 547 

Puget Sound Agricultural Corapanj^ and the area for wliich the United States 
is requested to pay, under the treaty of July 1, 1863, with Great Britain, is 3,572 
acres, or nearly six square miles. The Americans, however, have squatted on 
this claim, until the occupancy of the company has been reduced to 15 acres. 
On this prairie the Catholics established a missionary station, where recently a 
town has been laid out in acre lots. Here, too, w'as the site of the old Red river 
settlement of Canadian French, introduced in 1842 under the auspices of the 
Hudson's Bay Company. The landing was the point where the portage com- 
menced, on the old route from Fort Vancouver to the northern establisliments. 
To that point, about 30 miles from the mouth of the river, they navigated it with 
batteaux and canoes, which were cordelled up the stream. Along the eastern 
shore were two trails, one used at low and the other at high stages of the water. 
The Cowlitz river is still a link in the chain of direct communication between 
the Columbia river and Paget sound. It is a large rapid stream, at high stages 
of Avater navigable for steamers of light draught above the old landing, and for 
most of the year to '' Pumphrey's," about 24 miles from its mouth, where steamers 
frequently run. A boat is now being built, and will be placed on the river this 
fall, to run from Monticello to the old landing, connecting with the steamers to 
Portland, Oregon. 

In Clarke county there are several tributaries of the Columbia, the principal 
of which are Cath-la-poole and Washougal. The fonner, made by two forks 
respectively rising north and south of Mount St. Helens, flows nearly Avest and 
enters the Columbia about 80 miles from its mouth. It is a bold, rapid stream, 
ninning about 30 yards in its bed. The bottom lands at the lower portion of 
the river are wide, but narrow as they approach the foot hills of the Cascade 
mountains. The country is well timbered, occasionally interspersed with small 
prairies Avell adapted to grazing. The Washougal empties into the Columbia 
about 12 miles above Vancouver. A large settlement, to Avhich it gives name, 
is located in its valley. 

The Olympic or Coast Range of Mountains. — Among the natm-al 
features of this portion of the Te-iTitory, the Coast range of mountains must not 
be omitted. They are located in the north Avest peninsula, between Hood's canal 
and the Pacific ocean. Mount Olympus, Avith an altitude of 8,138 feet as esti- 
mated by Wilkes, is a snoAV-capped peak, and may be seen far out to sea. It 
gives identity to the chain, and the name Olympic is now generally applied to 
this range. This sierra, for it consists of scA^eral peaks, Avas first seen by Perez, 
in 1774, Avho nominated it La Sierra Santa Rosalia. Meares saw it in 1788, and 
describes it under the name Avhich he gave it, of Mount Olympus. Around and 
from the base of this main sieira, the numerous mountains descend to hills and 
spurs, and abruptly terminate on the sandy beach of the ocean in Ioav perpendic- 
ular bluffs. It Avas long supposed that the Black Hills near Olympia Avere spurs 
of the Coast range. Thisj hoAvever, is a mistake. Parties have gone through 
and report that there is an open valley of at least 15 miles in Avidth, separating 
these two ranges. 

Climate op Westeen Washington. — The climate of western Washington 
is essentially different Ixom that of the portion east of the Cascade mountains. 
The fact that there is comparatively no Avinter in so high a latitude may be a 
matter of surprise. Properly speaking, hoAvever, there are but two seasons, the 
dry and the rainy. The grades of temperature and the accompaniments Avhich 
in other countries of the same latitude ascribe the features and title to the four 
seasons, spring, summer, autunm, and Avinter, are here in great measure obliterated, 
or at least so dimly marked that the seasons imperceptibly run into each other, 
and lose their distinctive line of division. It is not unusual for the three winter 
months to be mild, Avithout snoAV or ice, the grass groAving meanwhile. In Feb- 
ruary, the weather may occur mild and genial as May, to be succeeded in March 
or April with our coldest weather. In July and August, days in some portions 



548 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



of wliicli tlie maximum temperature "will reach 90° or 100°, are sometimes fol- 
lowed by cold nights, occasionally accompanied by heavy frost. The rainy 
season proper begins late in October or early in November, and may be said to 
continue till the ensuing April. It frequently happens after the first rains 
that weeks of weather similar to Indian summer occur, and it is seldom that one 
or other of the months of January, February, or March does not prove continu- 
ously mild and clear. The summers of this Territory are unsurpassed in the 
world. While many days are exceedingly warm, the nights are always cool and 
refreshing, as if specially intended for wholesome sleeping. In the winter months, 
six in number, rains prevail. No disappointment should be felt if falling Aveather 
occuiTed some part of each 24 hours, and yet many bright sunshiny days relieve 
the long-continued rainy season of Washington Territory. Of the 16 winters 
passed in this Territory, the writer has known but three so severe as to render it 
essential to house and feed stock. The Indians do not pretend to such acts of 
providence, and they lose but little of their small wealth from exposure or cold. 
Rose bushes generally have proved an evergreen, and during the winter of 
1860-61, the hermosa continued to bloom in the garden of the writc-r till the 
25th of January. Such weather is by no means axiomatic, and an improvident 
farmer may lose his stock if means of shelter and food be not attainable. Those 
who have followed stock-raising most successfully provide from two to three 
months' feed as a general rule. While it may not be essential, surely "it is a 
good thing to have on hand." An average of from 7 to 10 days of freezing 
weather may be looked for with moderate certainty, when ice may be formed 
sufficiently thick to bear a man's weight. Under most favoring circumstances, 
a small pond entirely protected from the wind, or the action of the sun, may be 
frozen tight enough to permit a day or two of skating to a limited number of per- 
sons. Parties fond of sleighing consider themselves especially favored if they 
are afforded a season of from three days to a week's duration. 

From a series of meteorological observations taken at Fort Steilacoom, the fol- 
lowing will demonstrate the above statements. The reason for adopting this 
year is simply because it will be found that the mean temperature of the three 
winter months comports with the register furnished at the Smithsonian Institute, 
and used by the Hon. Charles Sumner in his recent exhaustive speech in favor 
of the purchase of Russian America. In the register used by him, the mean of 
the winter months for a series of years amounted to 39° 38^ In the year adopted 
the mean temperature is 30° 70'. 

Mean temperature at Fort Steilacoom, Washington Terriiory, (latitude 47° 07^ 
for the six months regarded as the rainy season, or winter, together with the 
amount of rain and snow, and the number of frosts in each month. 







Mean 


temperature. 


Rain. 






6 








_>;> 


Kijmarks. 




.2 


a 


a 


a 


3 a 










a 


d. 


p. 


9 <» 








cc 


a 


n 


o 






1853. 


o 


o 





o 


o 


Inches 




October 


45.25 


55.58 


62. 32 


51.19 


53. 32 


6.93 


Hoar frost, three times. Frost, once. 


November 


40.02 


46.07 


50.43 


43. 73 


44.63 


18.41 


Hoar frost, twice. One strong frost. 


December 


38.74 


44.30 


51 


44.45 


44.94 


4.42 


H inch snow, 23il, morning. Hoar frost, three; 
frost, one; hard frost, four times. 


1854. 
















Jauuary 


24.64 


29.96 


37.80 


30.03 


31.38 


8.69 


2J inches snow. Ice, Ih inch, (4th.) ,Snow latter 
part of 10th ; 2i inches sunrise 1 1th , and at inter vals 
that day. Snow showers on 12th. Six days without 
frost. 


February 


34.17 


39.82 


48.17 


36.42 


43 


7.57 


1st, i inch snow. Showers of snow on 10th. i inch 
on 11th. Snow on 14th. Hard frost, four times. 
Hoar frost, twice. 


March 


35.58 


43.58 


54. 22 


40.09 


46.08 


2.89 


Light showers of snow on 10th. Showers of hail and 
snow on 29th. Two hoar frosts and one hard frost 
in month. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



•549 



3Iean temperature at Fort Steilcoom, hy months, for four years. 

IMean of four years : January, 38°. 1 ; February, 40°. 7 ; March, 41°. 8 ; April, 48°. 6 ; May, 56°. 6 ; June, 61°. 1; 
July, 64°. 9 ; August, 64°. ; September, 56°. 9 ; October, 52°. 6 ; November, 46°. 2 ; December, 38°. 3 ; for 
3'ear, 50°. H; three winter months, 39°. 0. 

On page 159 of Davidson's "Directory of the Pacific Coast" will be found a 
series of meteorological observations on the Puget sound, for the years 1855-6-7, 
of the summer months. Those of 1857 present the following results: 





a 


a 

a 










S>; 










s 


•a 
s 


bo 


a 




C3 

a 


-2 C3 
o ^ 
c a 


1 






Time. 


>^ 


>> 


"2 « 




'^a 


a 


to o 
2 d 


o 




Remarks. 


-o 


ri 


a 


t a 


a 


^ » 


.Q 




(Appended below said register.) 












g 




^ £ 










o 












£ ^ 










1 


a 
a 


^ 


a 




to 


Co i-i 




a 




























s 


S 


a 


« 


1^ 


« 


o 


« 


P5 




1857. 





o 


o 


o 





o 


o 


Inches 


Inches 




May (3 weeks.) . 


71.7 


48.4 


L01.5 


46.9 


38.5 


18.1 


46.0 


0.52 


0.79 


Greatest range of temperature 
during the above period,63°. 


June 


78.2 


50.7 


90.1 


29.2 


43.0 


13.1 


36.9 


.62 


1.19 




July 


74.9 


51.6 


89.2 


26.5 


46.9 


9.3 


33.1 


.44 


0.01 


Greatest range of barometer 
from May 12 to October 
13, 0°. 79 inch. 




73.8 
65.5 


51.1 

49.8 


88.0 
76.4 


28.0 
23.3 


47.1 
45.2 


9.7 
8.5 


37.8 

30.8 


.46 
.73 


0.08 
0.70 




September 


A dry season, and marked by 






















a i.week of remarkably hot 






















weather at the close of May 






















and the begining of June. 


October (2 w'ks.) 


60.1 


48.9 


68.7 


16.3 


43.4 


7.8 


25.1 


.65 


0.74 





Mr. Davidson then remarks: "The cerealia generally grows Avell, but the 
climate is too cold for maize. During the winter a great amount of rain falls — 
as much as 60 inches ; and heavy weather prevails principally from the south- 
Avard. It is never cold enough to form thick, clear, solid ice." 

In the winter of 1866-7, the United States Coast Survey brig R. H. 
Fauntleroy was ordered to remain here during the winter with the idea of testing 
whether winter work was practicable, and to be on the station at the earliest 
opening of the season. To test the propriety of such order, a meteorological 
register Avas kept to show the number of days when work could not be done. 
Mr. J. S. Lawson, in charge of the work, has kindly fm-nished an abstract. 
It shows that not much may be effected by keeping a full crew on duty, but it 
proves still more the mildness of a Puget sound winter, and how exempt this 
climate is from fogs. 



Abstract of meteorological register United States surveying hrig B.H. Fauntleroy, 
Novemler, 1866, to April, 1867, inclusive. 

(Most of these observations were taken at Olympia.) 



Month. 



November 
December 
January*. 
Febiuary 

March 

April 



Clear 
days. 



Stormy days. 



Fog or 

mist. 



Amount 
of rain. 



Inches. 
9,892 
8,260 
7,506 
5,197 
0,880 
2,371 



Snow on four days. 



550 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

That admirable document, tlie speech of Senator Sumner, on Russian America, 
explains the phenomenon, why Washington Territory is gifted with a climate 
so much milder in winter than places of nuich lower latitude in Europe or the 
Atlantic States. His remarks were applied to Sitka, in latitude 57° 03'. With 
how much more force may they l)e applied to western Washington, with the 
Cascade mountains as a natural wall effectually barring out the cold bleak winds 
from the frozen northeast, and confining the more genial warm cun-ents of air 
and ocean which the distinguished senator so beautifully describes in the following 
extract : 

All this is now explained by certain known forces in nature. Of these the most important 
is a thermal current in the Pacific, corresponding to the Gulf Stream in the Atlantic. The 
latter having its origin iu the heated waters of the Gulf of Mexico, flows as a river through 
the ocean northward, encircling England, bathing Norway, and warming all within its 
influence. A similar stream in the Pacific, sometimes called the Japanese current, having 
its origin under the equator near the Philippines and the Malaccas, amid no common heats, 
after washing the ancient empire of Japan, sweeps northward until forming two branches: 
one moves onward to Behring's straits, and the other bends eastward along the Aleutian 
islands, and then southward along the coast of Sitka, Oregon, and California. Geographers 
have described this "heater," which in the lower latitude is as high as 81° of Fahrenheit, 
and even far to the north it is as liigh as 50°. A chart now before me in Findlay's Pacifie 
Ocean Directory portrays its course, as it warms so many islands and such an extent of 
coast. An officer of the United States navy, Lieutenant Bent, in a paper before the Geo- 
graphical Society of New York, while exhibiting the influence of this current in mitigating 
the climate of the northwest coast, mentions that vessels on the Asiatic side, becoming 
unwieldy v/ith accumulations of ice on the hull and rigging, run over to the higher latitude 
on the American side and "thaw out." But the tepid waters which melt the ice on a 
vessel must change the atmosphere wherever they flow. 

I hope you will not regard the illustration as too familiar, if I remind you that in the 
economy of a household pipes of hot water a,re sometimes employed in tempering the atmo- 
sphere by heat carried from below to rooms above. In the economy of nature these thermal 
currents are only pipes of hot water, modifying the climate of continents by carrying heat 
from the warm cisterns of the south into the most distant places of the north. So also there 
are sometimes pipes of hot air, having a similar purpose, and these, too, are found in this 
region. Every ocean wind, from every quarter, as it traverses the stream of heat, takes up 
the warmth and carries it to the coast, so that the oceanic current is re-enforced by an aerial 
current of constant influence. 

But these forces are aided essentially by the configuration of the northwest coast, with a 
lofty and impenetrable barricade of mountains, by which its islands and harbors are pro- 
tected from the cold of the north. Occupj'ing the Aleutain islands, traversing the peninsula 
of Alaska^ and running along the margin of the ocean to the latitude of 54° 40', this moun- 
tain ridge is a climatic division, or, according to a German geographer, a "climatic shed," 
such as perhaps exists nowhere else in the world. Here are Alps, some of them volcanic, 
with Mount St. Elias higher than Mount Blanc, standing on guard against the Arctic Circle. 
So it seems even without the aid of science. Hero is a dike between the icy waters of 
Behriug sea and the milder southern ocean. Here is a partition between the treeless northern 
coast and the wooded coast of the Kenanians and Koloschians. Here is a fence which sepa- 
rates the animal kingdonr of this region, leaving on one side the walrus and ice fox from the 
Frozen ocean, and on the other side the humming bird from the tropics. I simply repeat 
the statements of geography. And nowjyou will not fail to observe how by this configura- 
tion the thermal currents of ocean and air are left to exercise all their climatic power. (Vide, 
p. 29.) 

George Davidson, who has already been referred to, and whose works have 
been consulted in preparing the foregoing memoir, thus briefly but comprehen- 
sively gives his view of the coast division of Washington Territory : 

Washington Territory has a climate excelled only by that of California. We know not 
where to point to such a ramification of inland navigation, save in the British possessions to 
the northward. For depth of water, boldness of approaches, freedom from hidden dangers, 
and the immeasurable sea of gigantic timber coming down to the very shores, these waters 
are uufsurpassed, unapproachable. 



II. Central Washington. — The second natural division of Washington 
Tenitory lies between the Cascade mountains and the Columbia river, both of 
which have already been noticed. The following extract from the geographical 
memoir embodied in the "narrative and final report of explorations for a route 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 551 

for a Pacific railroad, near the 47th and 49tli parallels of north latitude from St. 
Paul to Puget sound," by the late Governor Stevens, cliarum et venerabile nomen, 
will give the best idea of the remaining geographic features of this interesting 
region : 

C'omiDg now to the country lying between the main Columbia and the Cascade mountains, 
it may be necessary to describe with some particularity the various streams and their several 
tributaries flowing into the main Columbia. A glance at the map shows that the general 
course of these streams is very much to the south, and between them are generally to be 
i'ound high mountain spurs which run to the Columbia itself, overhanging it many hundred 
feet. The most considerable rivers are the Yakima, with its Pisko, its Atahram, its Nachess, 
its Wenass, and other tributaries. 

The Pisquouse or Wenachee river, Lake Chelan and the Chelan river, the Methow river 
and the Okinakane river may be described as follows : The Yakima rises in the vicinity of 
the passes of the Cascade range, latitude 47° 15', from several large and beautiful lakes, and 
taking a general course to the southeast, runs for 1(50 miles to its confluence with the Colum- 
bia, in latitude 48'^ 05'. For 25 miles down the stream its valley is only from half a mile to a 
mile wide; it then widens out in Ketelas plain, which is 10 or 15 miles wide, the river there 
being 90 feet wide, and about three in depth, but very rapid. Below this plain the river 
curves gradually to the south, until it receives the waters of the Pisko ; then turns again 
eastward to its mouth. Between the Ketelas and Atahnam, for 30 m.ilos the hills again 
encroach on the valley, but below that it again widens out to 6 or 10 miles, with numerous 
branchings among the hills. On the west side, opposite Ketelas plain, three streams, the 
Pteh-num, Emptenum, and Wenass, rise among the hills separating the main Yakima from 
its principal branch, the Nachess. These streams are from 15 to 20 miles long, and run through 
small and fertile valleys. The Nachess rises in the vicinity of the Nachess Pass, and run- 
ning nearly parallel to the Yakima at a distance of from 15 to 20 miles, joins it after flowing 
about 50 miles. It has a valley from half a mile to four miles in width. The Atahnam rises 
about 30 miles south of it, and runs in a more easterly course, emptying about 10 miles below ; 
its valley is smaller than that of the Nachess, but fertile. The Pisko rises among the hills 
east of Mount Adams, and in size and character resembles the Atahnam. Only two small 
branches join the Yakima from the north and east, one running through the middle of Ketelas 
plain from the hills northward, the other running almost directly contrary to the upper 
Yakima from the hills east of its southerly bend. The Pisquouse and Enteathwa, which 
enter the Columbia near latitirde 47° 30', are at their mouths rapid streams, with high falls as 
they descend from the hills at the foot of the Cascade range into the deep valley of the Coluui 
bia. They are supposed to head in the mountains about 30 miles northwest of it. The 
Chelan rises in a lake, which is reported by the Indians to run for 30 miles back among the 
mountains, and approaches to within two miles of the Columbia, into which its outlet falls, 
by a series of cascades, 350 feet in this short distance, in about latitude 47° 45'. 

The Methow rises by several sources in the mountains northwest of Fort Okin- 
agan, and, running southeasterly, empties near latitude 48°. On its upper part 
there is a fine wide valley; but this narrows to a mile for 10 miles above its 
mouth. The Okinakane, rising in a long series of lakes north of the 49th par- 
allel, runs nearly south for seventy miles within the Territory, joining the 
Columbia only eight miles above the Methow. It expands into several small 
marshy lakes in its course, and is generally slow and deep, but in one place, 
about 33 miles above its mouth, there is a fall of five feet. Its valley is fine 
and the hills around well grassed, wooded, and arable. It receives a branch 
from the northwest, near the falls, which runs through a rough, hilly country, 
and has some high falls near its mouth. 

The Ne-hoi-at-pu-quu is a stream which enters the Columbia opposite Fort 
Colville. It has a Avinding course of about 70 miles, and has numerous beauti- 
ful prairies in its valley, though the hills around, partially wooded, are also to a 
great extent arable. None of these rivers west of the Columbia are navigable, 
encept, perhaps, the Yakima for a part of its course at high water. Lake Che- 
lan is doubtless navigable for many miles, but is cut off from the Columbia by 
the fall of its outlet. Between these rivers are spurs thrown out from the main 
chain of the Cascades, and extending towards, and in some cases reaching, the 
banks of the Columbia. Those between the Klikitat and Pisko tributary of 
the Yakima and between the main Yakima and the Wenachee or Pisquouse 
rivers are considerable mountains ; thus, on the trail pursued by Lieutenant 
McClellan, the rise from the Klikitat valley to the divide is 2,364 feet, and the 



552 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

descent to the Pisko 2,114 feet, the elevation of the divide being 3,633 feet 
above the sect. The rise from the main Yakima to the divide separating it from 
the Wenachee is 4,048 feet, and the descent to the hitter stream 4,264 feet; the 
summit level is 5,750 feet. Here the spur comes upon the river, making the 
trail difficult. The country north of the great western Ijend of the Columbia, 
from the mouth of the Spokane to the mouth of the Okinakane, is much more 
gentle and less elevated. Great injustice has been done this country by a want 
of patience and consideration on the part of the gentlemen who have gone over 
it rapidly in the summer, and who have been over it but once. It is impossible 
to speak understandingly of a country unless one has had experience and oppor- 
tunities of observation in countries somewhat similar. Now the most intelligent 
voyagers and best practical farmers in that country agree in opinion that there 
is a large quantity of arable land throughout this country, and very superior 
grazing. This is the opinion of intelligent Indian chiefs, who have themselves 
made some progress in raising crops, and who are already great stock raisers. 

South of the Yakima is a low divide separating its Avaters from the waters 
flowing into the main Columbia, in that portion of the river Avhere, after leaving 
Fort Walla-Walhi, it proceeds westward. This divide has a general parallel 
course to the Columbia, is nearly east and Avest some 30 miles from the main 
river, and betAveen it and the Columbia is a large body of arable land, nearly 
every acre of it adapted to cereals. This country has not come under the obser- 
vation of a scientific party Avith instruments in hand, but has been much trav- 
elled over by intelligent officers of the Indian service and by the practical agri- 
culturists of the country. Little streams flowing from the southern side of this 
divide, Avhich is Avell Avooded all through, pass doAvn to the main Columbia, 
Avatering the country and furnishing the means of supplying the farm and animals 
Avith Avater. 

On the several tributaries of the Yakima, particularly toAvards its upper Avaters, 
the land is rich, and adapted to most of the crops; and so in the valley of the 
Yakima itself. This valley has been denominated by some a desert and sage 
plain; sage does occur in spots and small quantities, but much of the coun- 
try is cultiA^able and productiA^e. It may be obserA^ed that in regard to the Avhole 
of this central portion of the Teii'itory it Avill be necessary to exercise care as to 
seed time, and farmers Avill have a disadvantage over those Avest of the Cascades 
in their seed time being A-ery much shorter; but Avith ordinary care as to the put- 
ting in seed no danger need be apprehended from droughts. This portion of 
the country is AVOoded about half Avay up from the diAdde of the Cascade moun- 
tains to the Columbia itself, but you pass up the main Yakima 70 miles before 
you reach the building pine, although cottouAvood is found on its banks sufficient 
for camping purposes; but Avhen you reach the Pisquouse or Wenachee j'ou 
come to a Avooded region Avhich extends to the main Columbia. The forest 
groAvth of the upper Avaters of the ClearAvater, and of the main Columbia from 
above the mouth of the Wenachee, furnishes inexhaustible supplies, Avhich, after 
being rafted down the streams — that is, t\iG Snake and Columbia riA^ers — Avill 
furnish settlements in the vicinity of those rivers Avith fircAvood and lumber at 
moderate rates. So great are the facilities for rafting that it almost amounts to 
a continuous forest along the streams. The Blue mountains, Avhich border the 
Walla- Walla valley on the south, have a general course AvestAvard, south of the 
main Columbia, until they unite Avith the Cascade mountains, from Avhich flow 
many streams to the Columbia, to the Umatilla, Willow creek, Butter creek 
John Day's river, and the Des Chutes river. 

When this interior becomes settled there Avill be a chain of agricultural settle- 
ments all the Avay from Walla- Walla to the Dalles, south of the Columbia, along 
the streams just mentioned and north of the Columbia, on the beautiful table 
land Avhich has been described to border it from the Walla- Walla AvestAvard. 
The Dalles is a nanoAv place in the Columbia river Avhere the channel lias been 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 553 

worn out of the rocks, below wliicli, about 10 miles, is the mouth of the Kliki- 
tat river, whose general valley furnishes the route of communication with the 
main Yakima and the several intermediate streams, the trails pursuing- a gener- 
ally northerly direction. In this Klikitat valley is much good farming land. 
It is also Avorthy of observation that gold was found to exist, in the explorations 
of 1853, throughout the whole region between the Cascades and the main Colum- 
bia, to the north of the boundary, and paying localities have since been found 
at several points, particularly on the southern tributary of the Wenachee. The 
gold quartz also is found on the Nachess river. The gold-bearing crossing the 
Columbia and stretching along Clark's fork and the Kutanie river unquestion- 
abl}" extends to the Rocky mountains. 

Climate of Central TVashikgton. — The meteorological data at points of 
known altitude within this region precludes a satisfactory notice of the climate. 
In the absence of registered observations facts may be stated from which infer- 
ences may be drawn. 

A. W. Tinkham, a distinguished civil engineer connected with the Northern 
Pacific railroad survey, left Fort Walla- AYalla (now Wallula) January 7, 1854, 
followed the Columbia river to the mouth of the Yakima, and ascended that 
river to its sources in the Cascade mountains. To Kle-alum-lake (with an alti- 
tude of 3,000 feet, which he reached January 17) he found no difficulty in trav-* 
oiling with horses. At this point the snow was about two feet deepj ''30 miles 
lower down on the river the snow was very light, not over three or four inches 
deep ; the grass was good and exposed, and the Indian horses were in good con- 
dition. Extending still further down and reaching Walla- Walla, the horses are 
ranging in thousands throughout the borders of the valley, with abundant grass, 
and rarely with any trouble from the snow." From this camp to the 20th of 
January the snow nowhere exceeded two and a half feet in depth. From lake 
Kitchelus to the summit (Yakima pass) the snow attained the dejjtli of six feet. 
Mr. Tinkham remarks : 

Descending, the snow rapidly decreases on both sides of the mountain, on the eastern 
side, about 35 miles from the summit, amounting to but from one and a half to two feet in 
depth, and on the western side falling away until, in the short distance of 14 miles, it is 
only eight inches deep. 

It is proper to add that the winter of 1853-4, when the reconnoissance was 
made, was an unusually severe winter. 

Colonel Thorp, of Yakima county, and one of the earliest settlers in this 
valley, having lost considerable stock in the very severe winter of 1861-2, at 
the next harvest stacked a large quantity of hay. With no accessible market 
for the article, the stacks s<till stand. The grass keeping green all winter in his 
locality, (on the Yakima, about a mile above the mouth of the Atahnam,) his 
large herd of cattle having had no occasion to be fed, the six or seven great 
hay stacks stand there undiminished in their original volume ; they serve as a 
reminder of that unusually cold winter. They equally attest the mild tempera- 
ture of the vallej'S of Central AVashington, and while one cannot fail to com- 
mend the prudence of the stock raiser, yet, for the sake of his labor and that so 
much good hay should not be wasted, would almost wish that real winter would 
come oftener, Sylvester Mowrj-, then a lieutenant in the United States army, 
Avho had charge of the meteorological observations of the western division of the 
Northern Pacific railroad, 1853, gives a series of means of observations at each 
camp between Fort Vancouver and Fort Colville, in the months from July to 
October, inclusive, to appreciate which the altitudes of the camps should be 
included. There was no rain in July, three days on which rain fell in August, 
seven days on which rain fell in September; in October, five days on which rain 
fell, and snow on the night of 23d and morning of 24th. He notices the great 
disproportion between the temperature at sunrise and mid-day, and says : 

I have no recollection of a single day on which a fire was uncomfortable during the pre- 



554 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

ceding and succeeding sunrise. The beat was not generally oppressive, except in the sun, 
throughout the march. 

Governor Stevens, who so tliorouglih^ investigated all these subjects, in solving 
the great desideratum of these times, interoceanic railway communications, thus 
arrives at the character of the climate in this vicinity, which is quoted with tlje 
more satisfaction from the fact that his deductions are substantiated by residents 
of the Yakima valley. He thus argues : 

Walla- Walla, latitude 46° 03', longitude IIS'^ 25'; altitude, 1,396 feet; U year— spring, 
51^.9; summer, 73°.] ; autumn, 53". (3 ; winter, 34°. 1 ; year, 53°. 2. Dalles, latitude 45'^ 3G', 
longitude ]20° 55' ; altitude, 300 feet ; 3^ years — spring, 53° ; summer 70°.4 ; autumn, 52°. 2 ; 
winter, 35°. 6 ; year, 52°. 8. Lapwai, Clearwater valley, latitude 4G° 27', longitude ]17°, 
altitude, 1,000 feet, 2i years observations for temperature give — spring, 51° ; summer, 70°. 3; 
autumn, 51°. 2 ; winter, 36°. 9 ; year, 52°. 4. Of these, the mean may represent the climate 
of the great plains and of the valleys connected with it up to latitude 49°, which are about 
of the same or a lower elevation, giving us, for spring, 51°. 9; summer, 71°. 2; autumn, 
53° ; winter, 35o.6 ; year, 52o.7. 

With respect to moisture, no record exists for Lapwai ; Walla- Walla and the Dalles, how- 
ever, are drier in climate, as shown by the records. Fort Walla- Walla, 1^ years observa- 
tions — spring, 6.40 ; summer, 2.85 ; autumn, 4.54 ; winter, 7.10 ; year, 20.89 inches. Dalles, 3^ 
years — spring, 2.63; summer, 42; autumn, 4.16; winter, 7.11; year, 14.32 inches. 
Mean — spring, 4.51 ; summer, 1.63; autumn, 4.35; winter, 7.11 ; year, 17.60 inches. 

All the crops of the middle States, including corn, can be cultivated success- 
fully in the Yakima valley. This statement is based upon reliable information 
from settlers who have resided there and farmed for several years past. 

III. Easterx Washikgton. — The Columbia river, Avhich bounds this sec- 
tion of the Territory on the west, has already been a matter of extended notice. 
To present the idea of the vastness of regions drained by it and its tributaries, 
it was essential to allude to its two main confluents, the Snake (Lewis's Fork) 
and the Pen d'Oreille, (Clarke's Pork,) as also the area of country through 
which they llowed. These two rivers have their respective sources far to the 
south and east of the Territorv of Washington, but they cross the whole width 
of the region under consideration, and in it are their mouths, several of their 
tributaries, and the largest proportion of their navigable channels. 

If the Spokane and Walla-Walla rivers, with their respective branches and 
coi:ifluents, be excepted, the remaining rivers of eastern Washington generally 
flow into one or other of the two great forks of the Columbia. This section 
may therefore be considered as the aggregation of the Walla-Walla valley ; the 
basin of the Lower Snake river ; the Great Plain east of the Columbia, circum- 
scribed by the big bend of that river and divided by the Grand Coulee ; the 
Spokane river, valley and plains ; and the valley of the Pen d'Oreille, under 
the general term of " Colville." 

The Walla- Walla river and its several tributaries, the Touchet, JMill creek. 
Dry creek, and several small streams which permeate the valley like the 
branches of a fan, take their source in the Blue mountains, flow westerly, and 
converge in the main stream, which enters the Columbia just above the northern 
boundary of Oregon. At the mouth of the river was located the Hudson's Bay 
Company's fort, Nez Perce, or Walla- Walla. It was built in 1820 by an officer 
of the Northwest Company, and consisted of a stockade, 200 feet square, 18 
feet high, with a broad walk on top, with two bastions at the northeast and 
southwest angles. The timber used in its construction was drift-wood from the 
upper Columbia. In the immediate vicinity of the fort are plains of drifting 
sand, extending back of the river several miles, the only vegetation being wild 
sage. This fort was a stopping place and depot for the brigade, as the trading 
parties of the company were termed. In later years it was the supply post and 
entrepot of Forts Hall and Boise and the trapping parties of the interior. Sup- 
plies from Fort Vancouver intended for these establishments were forwarded by 
land from this point, while such as were designed for tho upper Columbia were 
transported via the river. This fort was burned in 1842, and rebuilt with 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 555 

adobes. In November, 1855, sliortty after the outbreak of Indian hostilities, it 
was taken by the Indians and plundered^ since which time it has never been 
occupied by the company. In its vicinity Colonel Kelley, of the Oregon vol- 
unteers, had a two days' battle with the Indians who had robbed the fort, gaining 
a decisive victory over them. In this action the notorious Pu-pu-mox-mox, head 
chief of the hostiles, was slain. 

The town of Wallula now occupies the site of this old, abandoned fort. Being 
the eastern terminus of the regular established trips of the steamboats of the 
Oregon Steam Navigation Company, an extensive forwarding business is done 
here. It may also be considered the port of the city of Walla-Walla, distant 
some 30 miles east, as also a great distributing point for the rich mining regions 
of Idaho and Montana. 

Whitman's missionary station (Waiilatpu) was located on the banks of the 
Walla- Walla, about seven miles west of the site of the present city of Walla- 
Walla. It was established by Dr. Marcus Whitman in the fall of 183G, under 
the auspices of the American Board of Foreign Missions, and broken up Novem- 
ber, 1847, by the atrocious murder of its pious and devoted founder, his lovely 
wife, and nine other American inmates, by a band of pei'fidous Cayuse Indians. 

There is a striking peculiarity about the innumerable streams wh'ch flow into 
the W^ alia- Walla river. They spread themselves in almost every direction, not 
only in channels, but over and on top the surface, constituting a most admirable 
system of self-distributing natural irrigants. To this feature this rich agricul- 
tural valley owes very much for its remarkable fertality and producing power. 
The main streams are skirted by alder, cottonwood, and willow, the only 
approach to timber in the valley. Distant a few miles, however, the Blue moun- 
tains are covered with heavy timber, adequate for all purposes, though it is ren- 
dered expensive by the cost of transportation. 

Mill creek is worthy of notice, not only because upon its banks is located the 
city of Walla- Walla, the largest town in the Territory, but also from the remark- 
able fact that it divides itself into many distinct channels or creeks, spreading 
out laterally and watering quite an extensive surface, then gradually converging 
and concentrating into one channel, through which their waters are emptied into 
the Walla- Walla river. We know of no other such system of irrigation as this 
provided by bounteous nature for this beautiful region. The vallej^s of all these 
rivers and their numerous branches afford abundance of excellent farming lands, 
yielding heavy crops. The table-lands and surrounding hills are possessed of 
soil of like character. In consequence of the absence of water, or difficulty of 
iiTigation, which was deemed a sine qua non to their successful cultivation, until 
very recently no attempts were made to convert these lands into farms ; but as 
settlement increases, they are being occupied and very successfully cultivated. 
For grazing, these tables and side hills cannot be excelled. They are covered 
with a luxuriant growth of native bunch-grass of most nutritious quality. 
During the rains of spring it seems to attain its growth, and through the dry 
season which follows it stands to be cured into the best of hay, preserving its 
strength and esculent properties all Avinter. Stock abandon the green grass of 
the bottom lands to feed upon it, and on it they keep fat all winter. Another 
noticeable feature in this region is the great number of cold springs bursting out 
upon the surface, some of which are sufficiently large for water-powers. On the 
hottest days they retain then- coolness, and are many degrees colder than the 
water in the neighboring streams, to which they are found in close proxiniity. 

But the term Walla- Walla valley, in common parlance, is by no means 
restricted to the valley of the river of that name. Governor Stevens, in his 
valuable Geographic Memoir, thus alludes to its boundaries : 

The Snake river forms a great re-entering from the Clearwater to its junction with tho 
Columbia, which re-entering, being bounded on the south by the Blue mountains, has been 



'556 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

named the Walla-Walla valley, although that term properly applies to the immediate system ' 
of valleys whose streams connect with the Walla-Walla river itself. 

It may be proper to add tliat tlie I'ettlers on the Tu'kannon, Al-pah-wah, and 
Pa-ta-lia, whicli are all tributaries of Snake river, would deem themselves out- 
lawed if denied their residence in Walla- Walla valley. In language appre- 
ciated in this Territory, this valley, in its most restricted meaning, would find its 
synonym in AValla- Walla county. 

The Snake river, having formed the east boundary of the Territory from the 
46th parallel to the mouth of the Clearwater, crosses the entire width of eastern 
Washington and empties into the Columbia about nine miles north of the mouth 
of the Walla- Walla. Some 200 miles of its length courses in and around this 
section. Its main northern tributary within Washington Territory is the Pelouse, 
which.is formed by two main branches, one rising nearly north in the plain of 
the Columbia, the other in the Bitter Root mountains. The latter, after running 
west 130 miles, joins the north fork about 12 miles from the mouth of Pelouse. 
The Falls of the Pelouse, about nine miles from its mouth, are well worthy of 
remark. The following description is from the pen of J. M. Stanlej^ esq., artist 
of the Northern Pacific Railroad Exploring Expedition, (1853 :) 

The Pelouse river flows over three steppes, each of which is estimated to have an ascent 
of 1,000 feet. The falls descend from the middle of the lower of these steppes. There is no 
timber along the course of this stream, and but few willows or other bushes ; yet the soil is 
fertile, and the grass nutritious and abiindant even in winter. The fall of water, which is 
about 30 feet wide, cannot be seen from any distant point ; for, flowing through a fissure in 
the basaltic rock, portions of which tower above in jagged pinnacles, it suddenly descends 
some 125 feet into a narrow basin, and thence flows rapidly away through a deep canon. 
The distance from the falls to Snake river is about nine miles. The valley widens consider- 
ably for about half a mile from the mouth of the Pelouse. The home of the Pelouse Indians 
is near this junction, where they devote much of their time to salmon fishing. The salmon 
ascend to the falls ; but these Indians have a legend which tells of the wickedness of the 
Indians higher up the country, and how the Great Spirit, in his displeasure, placed the falls 
as a barrier to the further ascent of the salmon. 

Of the great plain lying east of the Columbia, Governor Stevens thus speaks : 
That portion of the great plain lying east of the main Columbia, and which may be regarded 
as bounded on the north by the Spokane, and on the east by the foot-hills of the Bitter Root 
mountains, is, for the most part, well watered and well grassed. The eastern half of this 
portion is exceedingly well adapted to agricultural purposes. The various streams — the 
Pelouse, the Kamas Prairie creek of the Coeur d'Alene, the Spokane, and Cceur d'Alene 
rivers — are well timbered with pine, and numerous rivulets and springs are found through 
that portion of the country, facilitating the progress of settlements, and rendering the whole 
at once available for agriculturists. 

The Grand Coulee, which is the peculiar specialty of this region, commences 
on the east side of the Columbia, immediately north of the chain of hills which 
skirt the river in its bend from White Bluffs westward ; after running in the 
same general direction as these hills eastward some 30 miles, it turns sharply to 
the north, and continues in that direction till it opens again upon the Columbia, 
some 60 miles below the mouth of the Spokane. The information as to this 
south arm and mouth of the Grand Coulee is derived from A. J. Treadway, esq., 
who surveyed several townships in its vicinity during the past summer, (1867,) 
under contract with the surveyor general of this Territory, tie thus describes it : 

The south or southwest end of the Grand Coulee is on the east side of the Columbia, in 
township 16 N., R. 23 E., at about centre of the range and south side of the township. It 
extends through ranges 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 east, and then turns nearly to the north. Near the 
southern boundary of the township is a range of high hills from 1,000 to 1,500 feet high, 
running nearly east and west, parallel with the township line. In the (Joulee are numerous 
broken or detached ledges of rocks from 10 to 75 or 100 feet high, and from 100 feet to one or 
two miles in length, running generally in the same direction with the Coulee. Scattered 
through the valley are numerous mounds of broken rocks seldom more than 10 or 20 feet in 
height. 

Lieutenant Richard Ai'nold, United States army, of Stevens's Exploration, 
(1853,) describes the north end as starting from the Columbia 60 miles below 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 557 

the moutli of tlie Spokane, and moving in a general direction soufh-soutliwest. 
He says : 

The Grand Coulee is about 10 miles wide wliere it opens on the river at its northern end, 
which is 100 feet above the water, and gradually widens towards the south; its walls, 800 
feet high, are formed of solid basaltic rock, but diminished in height southward as the bottom 
rose toward the summit of the plain, until in 20 miles distance they ended. Numerous lat- 
eral ravines and caiions were seen, running in various directions, some of them containing 
lakes without outlet, and streams 10 feet wide and two deep. 

The portion west of the Grand Coulee bounded by the Columbia is of basaltic 
formation, sparsely grassed and scantily supplied with water. A large propor- 
tion of country east and south of the Grand Coulee is well adapted to grazing 
and tillage. 

The Spokane river empties into the Columbia just below the 4Sth parallel, 
and near the point where the Columbia, deflecting shaqDly from its southerly 
course, forms the north limb of the big bend of that river to the westward. A 
few miles within the eastern boundary of the Temtory it receives its main con- 
fluent, the Coeur d'Alene, the outlet of Coeur d'Alene lake, which is located in 
tliat narroAV strip of Idaho Territory situate between eastern Washington and 
Montana. It is to be hoped that the effort now being made to re-annex this strip 
to Washington will meet with success. It is a useless appendage to Idaho, and 
if county organization became necessarj^, the isolation from the body of the Ter- 
ritory and the capital would prove a source of inconvenience to the residents. 
The reannesation would divest Idaho of incongruous shape, avoid parallels of 
latitude and imaginary lines as boundaries, substituting therefor mountain chains, 
and it would render intact a region of country with community of natural featm'e 
and resources, and if inhabited at all, its population would depend upon simi- 
larity of pursuit. 

The Coeur d'Alene river has several tributaries, the principal of which are the 
St. Joseph's and South Fork. The valleys of the Spokane and Coeur d'Alene 
are well adapted to settlement, abundantly supplied with timber and water, and 
affording a large proportion of arable land. This region may be regarded as 
bounded on the north by Clarke's fork, or the Pen d'Oreille river, which, after 
leaving Pen d'Oreille lake, (east of this Territory,) runs northwest and enters 
the Columbia under the 49th parallel. From the Spokane river to the northern 
boundary the country is heavily wooded, interspersed with valleys, many of 
which are now occupied by settlers. The extensive prairie, or plain of the 
Spokane, must not be overlooked; through it passes the wagon road from Walla- 
Walla to Pen d'Oreille lake. This vicinity is memorable for the short but bril- 
liant and decisive campaign of the late distinguished General George Wright, 
(then colonel 9tli United States infantry,) in the summer and fall of 1858, against 
a hostile combination of the Spokane, Pen d'Oreille, Pelouse, and Coeur d'Aleno 
tribes of Indians, a large number of whom, on the 16th May previous, had sur- 
prised and defeated Colonel Steptoe, of the same regiment, on Snake river. 
Colonel Wright was sent by General N. S. Clarke to chastise them. On the 
1st September he thoroughly whipped them at '' Four Lakes," (latitude 47° 32'', 
longitude 117° 39',) without the loss on his part of a single man. On the 6th 
he repeated the lesson at " Spokane plains," (latitude 47° 40', longitude 117° 19',) 
in a fight continuing over seven hours, in which the Indians were driven some 14 
miles, two of their chiefs killed, and numbers of lesser note. The prompt and 
efficient conduct of Colonel Wright forced the Indians to sue for peace. He 
marched as far as the Coeur d'Alene mission, curtailing their ability for fm-ther 
depredation, and established quiet in that region, which till this time remains. 
He also gloriously wiped out the humiliation of Steptoe's disaster. 

West of the Spokane prairie a range of hills divides the waters of the Spokane 
and lower Pen d'Oreille. Between these hills and the Columbia are the Col- 
ville and Chemakane valleys, separated by a low divide. In the latter was 



558 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

located tlie missionary station of Rev. Messrs. Eels and "Walker, established in 
1838, under the auspices of the American Board of Foreign Missions, and suc- 
cessfully conducted till the winter of 1847, when, after the " Whitman massacre," 
it was abandoned. This valley affords a large quantity of excellent agricultm'al 
land, and is capable of supporting a considerable settlement. 

The Colville valley. derives its name from the fludson's Bay Company fort 
of that name, situated near the bank of the Columbia, in latitude 48° 37'. This 
post was established in 1825, and during the period when the company Avere iu. 
active operation was second only in importance to Fort Vancouver. It was 
erected upon a terrace about a mile back from the river, and about two miles 
from Kettle falls, a vicinity formerly noted for the abundance of salmon. The 
establishment consisted of a dwelling-house, three or four warehouses, a black- 
smith shop, and several one-story log houses. In primitive days these were 
enclosed \vithin a stockade some 70 yards square, with bastions at two of the 
angles. Nine miles from the fort was the Cattle Ranch ; a grist-mill situate on 
the Stanntehus river, (now Mill creek,) three miles from the fort, where quite an 
extensive farm was cultivated. This mill supplied the adjacent country and the 
northern posts with flour, made from the wheat raised in this vicinity by its few 
settlers, mostly in the company's service, and Indians living within a circuit of 
70 miles, who had been instructed in agriculture by the Protestant missionaries, 
also supplied considerable. This fact alone speaks largely as to the capacity of 
Colville valley as a wheat-producing region. The batteaux used by the com- 
pany in the navigation of the Columbia Avere built at this fort. It was in fact 
a recruiting station and rendezvous for the company's brigades ; the point where 
the results of trade were consolidated to be transmitted across the Rocky moun- 
tains to headquarters in the Hudson's Bay territory, from whence shipments were 
made to England. 

In the immediate vicinity of the fort the soil is sandy, but a short distance 
back it produces abundant crops. We have no recent meteorological data suffi- 
ciently full to make an exhibit of climate ; but the assertion is fully warranted 
that the winters are many degrees milder than in th-e same latitudes east of the 
Rocky mountains. Captain MuUan, United States armj-, who has been tho- 
roughly acquainted with this whole region since 1853, compares the climate of 
this region with that of St. Joseph's, Missouri, in. latitude 41°. The summer is 
apt to be hot and dry ; but little rain falls except in spring and fall. Corn suc- 
ceeds well, though later in maturing than in the middle States. Wheat, barley, 
oats, patatoes, melons, &c., yield abundantly. 

Colville vallej^ proper is about 50 miles long and three wide, and large quan- 
tities of very rich land are unoccupied and open to settlement. Hon. J. E. 
Wj'che, a judge of the supreme court, Washington Territorj', but recently 
returned from holding court at Pinckney City, thus refers to it : 

On the rich lands now unoccupied iu the valley and on Mud lake and along on different 
points on the Columbia river there are now the finest opportunities for settlement and happy 
and prosperous homes of any part of this upper coast. From 100 to 300 families may find 
as rich land as the suu shines on, with no timber to be cleared, and with splendid timber just 
at hand, and the finest streams, and needing only the touch of the husbandman's hand to 
yield abundant harvests. 

Pinckney City, oftener called Colville, has recently been established, and 
already has a population of over 200. Near it are the United States military 
post (Fort Colville) and the Indian reservation. 

This vicinity has attracted much attention as a gold mining region since 1854 ; 
indeed the name of "Colville" has attached to the whole mining region of the 
upper Columbia and its tributaries, south of the 49th parallel. Gold is found 
on all the streams and bars from the Spokane river to the northern boundary, 
and up the Pen d'Oreille to the Catholic Mission. The richer fields of British 
Columbia have attracted thither white miners, but a large number of Chinamen 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 559 

have found successful employment on tliese various bars for the past several 
years. 

On the 18th November, 1865, the steamer Forty-nine was launched at the old 
Hawkins baiTacks, the former winter quarters of the Northwest Boundary Com- 
mission. She is 114 feet long-, 20 feet 4 inches wide, and 5 feet deep, Avith two 
engines, 12^-inch bore, 4 feet stroke — SO-horse power. She was built by Cap- 
tain Lemuel White, the pioneer steam navigator of the upper Columbia. She 
runs from Little Dalles, just south of the 49th parallel, to La Porte or Death 
rapids, distance, by course of river, 270 miles, and within 15 miles of Big Bend, 
British Columbia. 

Little Dalles is an embryo town established on the Columbia, some 30 miles 
from Pinckney City, with which it is connected by an excellent wagon road. 
The collector of customs, district of Puget Sound, has located at this point a 
United States deputy collector. A large quantity of merchandise passes through 
this place, as is proven by the following exhibit, very kindly furnished hy Major 
J. J. H. Van Bokkelin, who acted in the capacity of deputy collector from March 
!, 1866, to December 1, 1866, inclusive : 

Value of goods imported by Hudson's Bay Company on which duties were paid at Port Angelas. 

Amount of invoices $4,G32 00 

Duties paid on same 2, 928 21 

Statement of goods in transitu from Vancouver's island and British Columbia via Little Dalles. 

47 saddle horses, 183 pack animals, merchandise; value $34,175 

From Kootenais, British Columbia, to Vancouver's island and British Columbia: 

68 saddle horses, 225 pack animals, 42 packages furs ; value 18,560 

To Fort Shephard, British Columbia, from Vancouver's island and British Colum- 
bia : 34 saddle horses, 167 pack animals; value of merchandise 42,781 

From Fort Shephard to British Columbia and Vancouver's island : 38 saddle horses, 

195 pack animals, 35 packages of furs ; value 18, 500 

Statement of merchandise shipped from Little Dalles to British Columbia. 

From Hudson's Bay Company, Fort Colville: 18 riding horses, 167 pack horses, 

28 packages of furs ; value $16, 700 

From Oregon and Washington Territory, via Yakima valley and Soogoos lake : 

2,7.54 head of sheep 22,032 

2,265 head of beef cattle 148,550 

483 head of horses 33,810 

43 head of mules 4, 300 

1,132 head of pack animals 113,200 

264 head of saddle horses 26, 400 

From Little Dalles to Big Bend, British Columbia, via Columbia river — canoes and boats : 
Vessels cleared at custom house, 19 canoes, 35 boats, 15 trips of steamer Forty -nine ; mer- 
chandise cleared at custom house, $142,487 25. 

RECAPITULATION. 

Valuation of merchandise imported into Colville district $7,560 21 

Valuation of merchandise passed in transitu 114, 016 00 

Valuation of animals - 83,400 00 

Valuation of merchandise, &c., exported 507, 479 25 

Climate of Eastern Washington. — As the central division may be 
regarded as the west half of the great plain of the Columbia, the general remarks 
upon its climate measurably apply to the eastern portion of said plain. Meteor- 
ological data from continued observations at known points are not accessible 
within the time allowed in the preparation of this memoir, and we are forced to 
content ourselves with a single citation, the mean result of one and a half years' 
observations: Fort Walla-Walla, latitude 46° 3', longitude 118° 25', altitude 
1,396— spring, 47°; summer, 73°.l ; fall, 53°.6 ; winter, 34°. 1; mean for year, 
53°.2. 



560 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Captain Mullan, late of United States arm}^, long on duty in tins section, in 
his Military Eoad report, thus refers to tlie climate : 

The meteorological statistics collected during a great number of years have enabled us to 
trace an isocliimeual lino across the continent from St. Joseph's, Missouri, to the Pacific; 
and the- direction taken by this line is wonderful, and worthy the most important attention 
in all future legislation that looks towards the travel and settlement of this country. This 
lino, which leaves St. Joseph's in latitude 40", follows the general line of the Platte to Fort 
Laramie, where, from newly introduced causes, it tends northwestwardly, between the Wind 
River chain and the Black Hills, crossing the summit of the Rocky mountains in latitude 
47° — showing that in the interval from St. Joseph's it had gained six degrees of latitude. 
Tracing it still further westward, it goes as high as 48°, and develops itself in a fan-like 
shape in the plains of the Columbia. 

It may certainly be said of the upper Columbia basin, considering its altitude 
and hii<"h latitude, its climate is remarkable for mildness. On the open prairie 
the snow, never deep, seldom covers the ground a week at a time ; in the heavy 
timber and in sheltered places it remains much longer on the surface. It is sel- 
dom essential to house or feed stock, though occasional severe winters serve as 
warnings to provide food and shelter. One or two months' feed is the extent 
which necessity ever requires in the heaviest winters. The Indians, who own 
extensive bands of horses, take no precaution, sometimes shifting their camps 
for better grass, and they seldom lose stock by occasion of severity of winter. 
A noticeable concomitant of the winter of the upper Columbia is the Chenook 
wind ; it is a warm current, more properly a gale, occasionally, during the winter 
months, blowing up through the channel of tlie Columbia from the southwest. 
A few hours' continuance will remove every vestige of snow from the eanh over 
which it sweeps. 

There is no hazard in the statement that, for health and salubrity, there is 
no climate in the world which surpasses that of Washington Territory in the 
two portions east of the Cascade mountains. 

The Counties or Washington Territory. — The Territory is divided 
into 21 counties, viz: Chehalis, Clallam, Clarke, Cowlitz, Island, Jefferson, 
■ King, Kitsap, Klikitat, Lewis, Mason, Pacific, Pierce, Skamania, Snohomish, 
Stevens, Thurston, Wahkiakum, Walla-Walla, Whatcom, and Yakima. 

Chehalis. — Population, 300; assessed value of i^roperty, $100,199 94; 
area, 1,600 square miles. The geographical position of this county is best 
defined by referring to its special feature, Gray's harbor, and the valley of the 
river which confers its name. It lies upon the Pacific, and its north boundary 
is about midway betAveen Capes Disappointment and Flattery. It was organ- 
ized by act of the Washington Ten'itory legislature, April 14, 1854. County 
seat, Montesano ; post oflices or towns, Cedarvillc, Chehalis City, CosmopoUs, 
Elma, and Satsop. It contains a large quantity of rich bottom lands and prai- 
ries, and is one of the best agricultural sections of the Territory. 

lloads. — Till recently the travel between these settlements, all located upon 
Gray's harbor or the Chehalis river, was by water. The road from Olympia, 
on Puget sound, terminated at Cedarvillc, where canoes were taken for the 
remaining journey to Gray's harbor, although there were trails along the banks 
of the river, and one crossing to the Willopah settlement in Pacific county. A 
road has just been completed from Satsop to Olympia, very materially shorten- 
ing the distance between the lower Chehalis settlements and the sound. A 
beach road from Chehalis City to the northern cape of Shoalwater bay con- 
nected these settlements with Pacific county and Astoria, Oregon. 

Clallam. — Population, 305 ; assessed value of property, $97,395 31 ; area, 
1.720 square miles; number of acres of land on which taxes are paid, 9,300. 
This county was established by act of Washington Temtory legislature, April 
26, 1854. Its full northern length is washed by the Straits of Fuca, and its 
western boimdary, about 40 miles in length, borders on the Pacific ocean. 
County scat, New Dungeness ; post offices and towns, Port Angelos and Nee-ah 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 561 

Bay. Skirting the straits from the east boundary to near Port Angelos there 
is a wide belt of excellent land, which is very generally occupied by settlers. 
The river bottoms are very rich, and the opening of the roads from the straits 
to the Quillehuyte river has developed the existence of a rich section of land 
heretofore unknown. Most of the travel from place to place is by the straits. 
A road has been opened from the eastern settlements to Port Angelos, and short 
wads connect the former settlements with Port Discovery and Port Townsend. 

Clarke. — Population, 2,089; assessed value of property, $611,657 ; area, 
1,400 square miles ; number of acres of land on which taxes are paid, 94,731. 
Acres planted in wheat, 932 ; in oats, 1,805 ; in rye, 52; in barley, 78; in peas, 
120 ; in potatoes, 215. Lumber mills, 12 ; flouring mills, 3 ; schools, 26 ; 
churches, 9; stores, 31. One steam vessel. Horses, 1,039 ; mules, 87; cattle, 
3,980; sheep, 4,463; hogs, 1,469. 

This is the oldest county in the Territory. The provisional government of 
Oregon, June 27, 1844, established the district of Vancouver, embracing all of 
the then Oregon Tenitory north of the Columbia river. By act under same 
government, December 22, 1845, the word "county" was substituted for "dis- 
trict." Under the Oregon teratorial government the name of "Clarke" was 
adopted in place of " Vancouver." County seat, city of Vancouver, one of the 
most thriving settlements in the Territory. Here was established the head- 
quarters of the Hudson's Bay Company west of the Rocky mountains. The 
early Catholic missionaries, in 1838, first commenced their labors at this point. 
Early after the treaty of 1846 United States troops arrived in the Temtory, 
since which time it has been occupied as a military post, long the headquarters 
of a military division or department. 

Toivns and Post Offices. — Lake River, Lincoln, Pekin, Union Ridge, and 
"Washougal. The county borders the Columbia river, and is about equidistant 
from the Pacific ocean and the summit of the Cascade mountains. The settle- 
ments are connected by roads, but the main territorial road from Fort Vancouver 
to Fort Steilacoom, passing along the Columbia river to the Cowlitz, at certain 
seasons is inundated ; from this fact and the facility of travelling on the Colum- 
bia this road has only a nominal existence. 

Cowlitz. — Population, 480 ; assessed value of property, $186,079; area, 460 
square miles ; number of acres on which tax is paid, 20,918. 

This county lies immediately west of Clarke, with about 20 miles of shore 
line on the Columbia river, with 25 miles of length of the Cowlitz river trav- 
ersing it north and south. Its southeast corner is about 35 miles east of the 
mouth of the Columbia river. Besides the valley of the Cowlitz several tribu- 
taries of that river afford a large quantity of rich bottom land. Nearly one-third 
of the county is included in these valleys. A short distance back of the rivers 
large tracts of unoccupied lands aflbrd great inducement for settlement. No 
portion of the county is further removed from either the Cowlitz or Columbia 
than 15 miles, hence access to market is insured. The whole county is good 
soil. Fifty bushels of wheat to the acre is not an unusual yield in these bottom 
lands. This comity was set off from Lewis county by the legislature of this 
Ten-itory, April 21, 1854. Monticello is the county seat. This is the point of 
departure for travel from the Columbia river to Puget sound. Castle Rock and 
Oak Point are the remaining post offices. At the latter point is located Aber- 
nethy's saw-mills, at Avhich about 4,000,000 feet of lumber are annually manu- 
factured. There is also a small saw-mill on the Cowlitz river about 12 miles 
above Monticello. 

Boads. — This county is so located that roads from the Columbia river to 
Puget sound must either commence in or pass through it. Here commences 
or tenninates the land travel between the river and the northern settlements.. 
The military road from Steilacoom and the tenitorial road from Olympia end here, 
and the transit to Portland or Vancouver is completed by steamboats via the 
36 



562 EESOURCES OP STATES AND TEKEITOKIES 

river. The portion of road between Monticello and Vancouver is located, "but 
scarcely used. Tlie old Hudson's Bay trail, wliicli comes down the Columbia river, 
may be travelled at certain seasons of the year, and was much used for driving- 
stock, but even they are now most generally transported in barges to Monticello, 
towed by the steamers. On the east side of Cowlitz river a road is opened con- 
necting all the settlements. From Monticello to Oak Point, and from Oak 
Point to Boisfort prairie in Lewis county, roads have been opened, the latter 
connecting with a territorial road from Boisfort to Olympia. 

Island. — Population 409 ; assessed value of property $261,731 ; area 250 
square miles. The following surplus produce remained on hand May, 1867, at 
time of annual assessment, which indicates the producing character of this set- 
tlement: 1,416 tons of hay; 2,687 bushels wheat; 15,815 bushels barley; 
9,382 bushels of oats; 5,925 bushels of potatoes; fruit trees, 9,868; horses, 
268; cattle, 964; sheep, 1,234; hogs, 1,156. 

The county was established by the Oregon territorial legislature, January 
6, 1853. It consists of the two islands of Whidby and Camano. The county 
seat is Coupeville. Towns and post offices — Coveland, Orescent Harbor, Oak 
Harbor, and Utsalada, the latter of which places is the site of the extensive 
saw-mill of Messrs. Greman and Craney, on Camano island. While isolated 
from the remainder of the Territory the settlements on Whidby's island are con- 
nected by good roads. 

Jefferson. — Population, 650 ; assessed value of property, $301,584 27 ; 
area, 1,670 square miles. Established by the Oregon territorial legislature 
December 22, 1852. 

This county has an extensive shore line upon the straits of Juan de Fuca and 
Admiralty inlet, embracing ports Discovery, Townsend, and Ludlow. It then 
extends south of Clallam county to the Pacific ocean. On ports Discovery and 
Ludlow extensive steam saw-mills are located, giving employment to numerous 
hands and constituting centres of popiilation. Port Townsend, on the bay of 
that name, is the county seat. It is the site of the custom-house of the district 
of Puget sound ; the marine hospital is located here, and at the head of the bay 
is the militar}^ post, (Fort Townsend.) The bay is six miles long, four wide, 
and an excellent harbor. Towns and post offices — Chemican, Port Discovery, 
and Port Ludlow. Water transportation is relied upon, as most of the settle- 
ments are in the vicinity of the sound. Roads connect Port Townsend with 
Port Discovery, and with the prairie settlements back. 

King. — Population, 725; assessed value of property, $414,043; area, 1,800 
square miles ; acres under cultivation, 3,650. Organized by the Oregon teriito- 
rial legislature December 22, 1852. 

In this county are embraced the rich agricultural valleys of the Dwamish, 
White, and Green rivers, and the extensive coal fields back of Lake Washing- 
ton on the Squak, Black, Dwamish, and Green rivers. Seattle is the county 
seat ; a thriving town, in which is located the university of the Territory. Towns 
and post offices — Cedai- river and Freeport. 

Eoads. — Seattle is connected with Steilacoom by a good wagon road, and dur- 
ing the past season a wagon road has been constructed across the Snoqualmie 
pass of the Cascade mountains into the Yakima valley. 

Kitsap. — Population 610; assessed value of property, $551,266 ; area, 400 
square miles. 

This county was organized by act of the legislative assembly of this Territory, 
passed January 16, 1857, under the name of Slaughter county, in honor of the 
gallant Lieutenant W. A. Slaughter, United States arm}^, who was killed in 
the Indian war of 1855-56. By a provision in the bill the people of the county 
were authorized to vote for a name at the next general election, (1857.) At such 
election the name Kitsap was adopted after the Indian chief whose tribe occu- 
;pied considerable portion of the county, one of the most prominent and able 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 563 

of tlie leaders of the hostile Indians. The county may be described as the 
peninsula between Hood's canal and Admiralty inlet, including Bainbridge and 
Blake's islands, with 50 miles of shore line upon Hood's canal and 80 upon 
Admiralty inlet. No portion of the county lies further from navigable water 
than fom- miles. This county is noted for its extensive lumbering mills. Port 
Madison is the county seat, on the excellent harbor of that name. Towns and 
post offices — Teekalet, Seabec, Port Orchard, and Port Blakely. 

Roads. — Between Port Madison and Teekalet the portage is made by a road 
nine miles in length. Port Orchard to Seabec, a distance of four miles, is 
made over a well-defined trail. Water transportation is the prevalent method 
of communication between the settlers themselves, as also with other portions of 
the Territory. 

Klikitat. — Population, 300 ; assessed value of property, $125,342 ; area, 
1,850 square mi'les; number of acres of land on which taxes are paid, 6,778; 
established by legislative assembly of this Temtory December 20, 1859 ; 
county seat, Eockland. The Dalles in Oregon is the post office for this whole 
region, including even the county seat. The Yakima Indian reservation and 
the Simcoe agency are located in this county. The Indian industrial school, 
under management of Rev, J. H. Wilbur, at this agency, has been a decided 
success. 

Lewis. — Population, 550 ; assessed value of property, $268,095 ; area, 1,580 
square miles. Established by the Oregon provisional government December 
21, 1845; county seat, Claquato ; towns and post offices — Boisfort, Cowlitz, 
Highland, Newankum, Saunders, and Skookum Chuck. 

This county is one of the best agricultural sections west of the Cascade moun- 
tains. Thoroughly watered by the Chehalis and Cowlitz rivers and several of 
their tributaries, its prairies and rich bottoms offer great inducement to settlement. 

Boads. — The tenitorial road and mail route from Olympia to Monticello runs 
through the whole breadth of this county. A second territorial road, crossing 
the Skookum Chuck and Newankum and avoiding the Chehalis river, terminates 
at the old Cowlitz landing. Boisfort is connected with Claquato by a good 
wagon road, and also by a road with Mopah, in Pacific county. 

Mason. — Population, 219 ; assessed value of property, $44,480 ; area, 1,600 
square miles. Organized under the name of Sawamish county by the Washing- 
ton Territory legislature, March 13, 1854. Name changed to Mason, January 
8, 1864, in honor of the memory of Mr. Charles H. Mason, deceased, first sec- 
retary of the Territory in order of time as well as by efficiency of service, and 
long and ably its acting governor. County seat, Oakland. Towns and post 
offices — Arkada, Kamilchie, Skokomish, Sherwood's mills, and Union city. A 
road has been opened from Oakland, near the head of Skookum bay, to Olympia, 
which is used for driving stock. Water communication, b}^ the sound and itf5 
several bays, is, however, the usual method, and in the present location of settle- 
ments the most available. 

Pacipic. — Population, 375 ; assessed value of property, $135,568; area, 1,140. 
Established by Oregon territorial legislature February 4, 1857. This is the 
southwestern county of the Territory, bordering on the Coliniibia river and the 
Pacific ocean, its great specialty the basin of Shoal water bay. It is noted 
for its oysters and fisheries. An extensive establishment for the manufacture of 
water cement has just been completed by Mr. J. B. Knapp, on the Columbia 
river, about two miles east of Chenook. The supply of rock is inexhaustible. 
Preparations are made to supply at least 150 tons per month. About $20,000 
have been expended in the buildings and machiner3^ 

The county seat of Pacific county is Oysterville. Other post offices and towns — 
WillopahjBruceport, Chenook, and Pacific City. 

Pierce. — Population, 860 ; assessed value of property, $508,806 50 ; area, 
2,000 square miles. Organized by act of the legislative assembly of Oregon 



564 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Territory, December 22, 1852. In this county is located the mammoth claim 
of the Pnget Sound Agricultural C/ompany for lands appurtenant to Fort Nis- 
qually, called the Nisqually claim. About a mile east of the city of Steilacoom 
the United States fort of that name is located. From this point commences the 
military road to Wallula (the old fort Walla-Walla) via the Nachess pass of 
the Cascade mountains, opened by the people of Thurston and Pierce counties 
in the summer of 1853, and an appropriation by Congress of $20,000 expended 
upon it in 1854, by Lieutenant Richard Arnold, United States arm^^ A general 
idea of the line of this road will be obtained by consulting the table of distances 
measured by odometer at the time of construction. The points designated gen- 
erally indicate camps where the best water and the greatest amount of wood and 
grazing may be obtained. The first column of figures indicate the distance 
from point to point, and the second the distance from Steilacoom : 

Miles. 

ToPuyallup river. , 22^ 22J 

First crossing of White river 9^ 31f 

Last prairie on White river 6|- 38 

Second crossing of White river ]l| 435 

Sixth crossing of White river 5f 55-J 

LaTete 3f 59i 

First crossing of Green river l| 61-^ 

Bare Prairie 'Jf 63^ 

Last crossing Green river at western base of mountain 10^- 73f 

First prairie on summit of mountain 3f 77-J- 

Last prairie on summit of mountain 2^ 79^ 

First crossing of Nachess river T)^ 84f 

Crossing of Papattsally 10+ 95^ 

Mouth of Bumping - 4| 99| 

Last crossing of Nachess river ]lf lUJ 

Wenass 10 121i 

Where road leaves W^enass valley Hi 1 37^ 

First crossing of Yakima river 4 141J 

First water after leaving Yakima river 18f IE.9^ 

Second water after leaving Yakima river 7^ 167 

Brackish Spring ICf 183f 

Great Bend of the Yakima 18J 202 

Near mouth of Yakima 1.5^ 217^ 

Terminus of route, opposite Wallula 17|- 234^ 

The road from Fort Vancouver passes through this county, continuing to Fort 
Bellingham at the extreme north of the Tenitor}', though not travelled beyond 
Seattle. From Steilacoom to this latter point the mails are carried tri-weekly 
on this road. The settlements scattered through the county are connected with 
each other by good roads permeating the county, and communicating also with the 
farming settlements of Thurston and King counties. 

The county seat is Steilacoom. Post offices — Franklin, Nisqually, and Span- 
away ; the former named being the post office of the flourishing agricultural 
settlement in the valley of the Puyallup. Here, also, is an Indian reservation, 
at which are concentrated most of the tribes of the head of Puget sound. 

Skamania. — Population,_270j assessed value of propert}^, $260,365; area, 
1,800 square miles ; organized by act of legislative assembly. Territory of Wash- 
ington, March 9, 1854. This is a mountainous section, there being but little 
available land within its great area immediately bordering on the Columbia 
aiver. The width of the county embraces the summit of the Cascade range ; in 
it are the great cascades of the Columbia, the great gorge made by the vast 
aggregation of the waters of the upper Columbia and its innumerable confluents 
and tributaries forcing an exit through this great mountain chain. Through this 
pass, around these rapids and falls, the first railroad west of the Rocky moun- 
tains was constructed to avoid these obstructions to steamboat navigation. 

Another matter worthy of remembrance connected with this county was the 
passage by the legislative assembly of this Territory of an act (January 14, 1865) 
dismembering this county and dividing its territory between Clarke and Klikitat 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 565 

counties. Congress having in tlie organic act reserved the privilege to disprove 
territorial legislation, annulled said law of the assembly of the Ten-itory, (Jun-e 
29, 1866,) and reinstated Skamania county; the only instance in territorial legis- 
lation in which Congress has intervened. 

County seat is Cascades. By this is meant Lower Cascades; the Upper Cas- 
cades is the only other town. Both are the termini of the Cascade railroad ; hotli 
are points of departure for the steamboats of the Oregon Steam Navigation Com- 
pany plying up or down the Columbia river. 

The narrow strip of land over which the railroad passes affords but little room 
for any other road. There is, however, a military road from Fort Vancouver 
(called in the act of Congress making the appropriation for its construction, 
Columbia City barracks) to Fort Dalles. This road affords land communication 
between the Cascades and the settlements of Clarke county, but travel by the 
river almost the universal mode of communication. 

Snohomish. — Population, 285; assessed value of property, $69,022 86 ; area, 
1,500 square miles; acres under cultivation, 1,200; organized by act of Wash- 
ington Territory legislatm'e, January 14, 1861. This county is noted for the 
pine timber which skirts its numerous streams, which are resorted to by logging 
camps. These camps are transitory and made up entirely of males, and hence 
the great preponderance of male population. This also accounts for the fact 
that at different periods such discrepancies arise in attempted estimates of popu- 
lation. 

The county seat is Snohomish City; Muckelteo and Tulalip (the latter the 
site of the Indian reservation) are the other post offices in this county. 

Stevens. — Population, 550; assessed value of property, $200,579; area, 
28,000 square miles ; acres under cultivation, 2,500. This county embraces 
over one-thu'd of the area of the Territory, lying upon both sides of the Columbia 
and between the Cascade mountains and the eastern boundary of the Territory. 
On the 29th Januar\', 1858, the present county of Stevens and the ten-itory 
included within the county of Yakima were erected into a county by the legis- 
lature of this Territory. No organization being effected under said act the legis- 
lature passed a similar law January 27, 1862, constituting the before described 
ten-itory into Spokane county. On the 20th January, 1863, the territory east 
of the Columbia was set oft' and erected into a separate county, and named 
Stevens county in honor of the late General Isaac I. Stevens, Washington's 
first and most distinguished governor. January 19, 1864, Stevens and Spokane 
counties were consolidated and the name of Stevens ascribed to the united terri- 
tory. To attempt a description of this large and interesting region, would be 
to renew the notice of the great plain of the Columbia, the Spokane plains, the 
Grand Coulee, the Colville valle}^, all of which have been extendedly noticed 
in the preceding geographic memoir, which is referred to as largely applicable 
to this county. 

The county seat is Pinckney City. There are other settlements and towns 
at various points, but it alone is a post office. 

Roads. — Wagon roads from Walla- Walla to Colville ; from White Bluffs to 
Lake Pen d'Oreille, the Mullan road ; a road from the Dalles through the Yakima 
valley, and on the west side of the Columbia, to Colville, and roads connecting 
with the passes of the Cascade mountains traverse this region, and are much 
travelled by miners and parties driving stock into British Columbia and to the 
Pen d'Oreille and other mining regions. 

Thursto:n-. — Population, 2,045; assessed value of property, $776,622 75; 
area, 672 square miles; number of acres on which taxes are paid, 82,522 ; cattle, 
2,691; sheep, 7,877; hogs, 696. Established by act of Oregon territorial gov- 
ernment, January 12, 1852. County seat, Olym'pia, the seat of government of 
the Ten-itory. At Turnwater, in this countj^, the first American settlement north 
of the Columbia was made in the fall of 1845. 



566 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Post Offices and Toivns. — Beaver, Cliamber's Prairie, Coal Bank, Miami, Grand 
Mound, and Turnwater. 

JRoads. — Olympia being the head of Paget soi;nd, water communication from 
the northern settlements, Victoria and British Columbia, and the land travel 
from the Columbia river northward, terminates at this point. Here, then, may 
be said to start the great thoroughfare of communication between the sound and 
Columbia river, terminating at Monticello, where steamboat navigation is resumed. 
There are no less than three routes within this county southward to Skookum 
Chuck, two thence to the Cowlitz river — one (tlic military road) continuing down 
the Cowlitz to Monticello; an excellent wagon road connects with Steilacooni 
and thence to Seattle. This county is admirably adapted for roads, and the 
settlements are all accessible by well defined and good roads. 

Wahkiakum. — Population, 63 ; assessed value of property, $9,653 33 ; area, 
225 square miles. Established by act of Washington legislature, April 25, 1854. 
Cathlamette is the county seat, and post office for the whole countj*. This county 
borders on the Columbia river just east of Pacific county. The greatest portion 
is rough and mountainous, confining settlements to the river front. The timber 
is of an excellent quality and most abundant, but agricultural tracts arc few and 
not extensive. 

Walla-Walla. — Population, 3,500 ; assessed value of property, $1,762,816 ; 
area, 8,000 square miles; acres of land on which taxes are paid, 21,152; acres 
in corn, 2,307 ; acres in wheat, 7,729 ; acres in oats, 4,045 ; acres in barley, 1,125 ; 
acresin timothy, 568. In 1866 the yield was as follows: Wheat, 500,000 bushels; 
oats, 250,000 bushels; barley, 200,000 bushels; corn, 150,000 bushels; beans, 
170,000 pounds. Six flouring mills, six saw-mills, two planing mills, two dis- 
tilleries, one foundry, 52 threshing, heading and reaping machines. 

The act of assembly of this Territory creating this county passed April 25, 
1854. It then included all the territory between the Cascade mountains and 
the Rocky mountains and the 46th and 49th parallels, excepting thereout a 
fraction of Skamania and the county of Klikitat. Settlers were scattered through 
this vast region, but so widely apart that no organization was at the time 
attempted. The Indian war of 1855-56 caused many to abandon the region. 
At its close, Colonel Steptoe issued, to say the least, a most remarkable order, 
dated August 20, 1856, that " no emigrant or other white person, except the 
Hudson's Bay Company, or persons having ceded rights from the Indians, will 
be permitted to settle or remain in the county." This emanated from Major 
General Wool, then commander of the Pacific military department. This decree 
of expatriation and forbidding of settlement continued till the spring of 1859, 
when Major Grier, United States dragoons, consented that the rich valley of the 
Walla-Walla might be occupied by American settlers. Its growth and progress 
dates from that period, and it is now the most populous and wealthy county in 
the Territor3\ 

The county seat is the city of Walla-Walla, the largest town in Washington 
Territory. Post ofiices — Coppei, Mullan's Bridge, Touchet, Wallula, all centres 
of thriving settlements. 

Beads. — Wallula (the old Fort Walla- Walla) was the point where the great 
emigrant route coming into Oregon struck the Columbia river. It is now the 
eastern terminus of usual steam navigation on the Columbia, though occasional 
trips at favorable stages of water are continued as far as White Bluffs. In 
primeval days the emigrants continued down the river in boats or on a road along 
the river to the Dalles. In 1853, a road was constructed from this point, or 
rather from the opposite side of the river, via Yakima valley and Nachess Pass, 
to Fort Steilacoom, on Paget sound. A good wagon road, travelled daily by 
coaches, connects it with Walla- Walla City, 30 miles east. During the past 
year a road ( Wastuckna wagon road) connects it with the forks of Mullan's road 
and the wagon road from Walla- Walla to Colville, insuring direct communica- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 567 

tion from Wallula to Colville or Fort Benton. This road is in lengtli 58 miles. 
The distance via "Walla- Walla, from Wallula to same point, was 100 miles. 

Walla- Walla is a centre from -wliich roads diverge in all directions, connect- 
ing the settlements of the county with each other, and afFording routes to Fort 
Benton, on the ]\Iissouri, (by Mullan's military road,) to Fort Colville, Lewiston, 
and Boise, to Lake Pen d'Oreille, and to the rich mining regions of Montana. 

Whatcom. — Population, 244 ; assessed value of property, $42,522 50 ; area, 
4,300 square miles; organized by act of Washington legislature, March 9, 1854. 
This is the northernmost of the Puget Sound counties. Within is Bellingham 
bay, the shores of wliich are so noted for their extensive and valuable coal mines, 
which are fully noticed in an article upon the coal fields of the Territory. 

County seat, Whatcom ; post offices, San Juan, on the disputed island of that 
name, and Swinamish. 

Yakima. — Population, 125 ; assessed value of property, $68,676 28 ; area, 
7,000 square miles; organized under act of assembly of Washington legislature, 
January 21, 1865. It embraces the Yakima valley proper lying between the 
Wenachee river and the northern boundary of Klikitat county. This and the 
neighboring valley's, passing under the general cognomen of the Yakima country, 
are the best stock raising region in the Territory ; fine soil, excellent grass, and 
mild winters, Avith occasional very short feeding seasons, never exceeding between 
one and two months. Several extensive stock ranches are already commenced, 
and large bands of cattle are owned in this valley. The county scat is on Colonel 
Thorp's claim on the Yakima, near the mouth of the Atahnam, and not far from 
the old Catholic mission. Thirty-five miles above, at the foot-hills of the Cas- 
cade mountains, is the Kitatash valley, 40 miles in length and 15 in width, well 
Avatered by the Yakima and its tributaries, abundant^ though not heavily tim- 
bered, and of excellent soil. The new road opened the past season from Seattle 
through the Snoqualmie Pass runs through this valley, joins the Nachess mili- 
tary road at Thorp's, and as one road they continue to Wallula. The road from 
the Dalles, Oregon, to the Wenachee, Pen d'Oreille, and mines of the upper 
Columbia, crosses the Yakima river about 25 miles below Thorp's, and passes 
through the whole breadth of this county. 

The post ofiice for the county is the Dalles, Oregon, from which it is separated 
by the Columbia river, the width of Klikitat county, the Simcoe mountains, and 
the Yakima river. A county containing 200 inhabitants, with more induce- 
ments for immediate settlement than almost any portion of the Territory in con- 
sequence of mineral resources, rich agricultural tracts, and salubrious climate, 
ought to have one post ofiice and one post route. 



SECTION II. 

MINERAL RESOURCES. 

On the north side of the Columbia river from the Dalles the country is broken 
and hilly to the Klikitat river, which empties into the Columbia above the 
Dalles. In the Klikitat valley there is considerable fanning, and a large 
amount of grazing land, with small patches of pines and fir. The Cascade 
range of mountains is well supplied with forests of pine and fir, except the highest 
peaks, as Mount Adams, St. Helens, and Ranier, which are covered with per- 
petual snow, and consequently are entirely barren. 

Along the foot of the mountains from the Dalles to the Nachess, the whole 
country is volcanic, with no minerals of value. On the head of the South Fork 
of Yakima river a conglomerate is found, composed of pebbleS and boulders of 
sandstone and granite, with small masses of quartz. When this has been disiu- 



568 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

tegrated a trace of gold has been found. To the north of the Nachess quartz 
veins exist, but they are generally small and barren. Gold is rarely, though 
occasionally found in them. Further north, near lake Chelan, some diggings have 
been discovered, which, however, did not pay wages. 

On the Columbia river, above Priest rapids, a number of the bars paid fair 
wages for a short time. The gold was very fine, and liad evidently been moved 
a long distance by the action of the water. The eastern slope of the Cascade 
range in this Territory has been pretty thoroughly prospected for gold. Except 
in the instances before mentioned, none has been found. There is a large amount 
of good grazing and farming lands, but no mining. In the northeastern portions 
of the Territory, about Fort Colville, mines have been Avorked, though not 
profitably. In the regions adjacent to the llocky mountains, doubtless good mines 
Avill yet be found. 

Coal. — The appearance of veins and outcroppings of coal in almost every 
section of the Territory west of the Cascade mountains indicates its very general 
distribution and inexhaustive supply. It is found on the Columbia, as also upon 
streams emptying directly into the Pacific; it appears at Clallam bay,just Avithin 
the Straits of Fuca ; following round our inland sea, Ave find it in exhaustless 
fields back of Seattle, then upon the Sto-lu-aaa-mah, and at Bellingham bay, in 
the extreme north. Its presence at intermediate sections Avithin an area bounded by 
the above designated points upon the Cowlitz and Skookum Chuck, the Chehalis, 
and on the Dwamish, Black, and Green rivers attests its thorough and univer- 
sal diflusing; the continuity of the strata through this Avhole region. 

George Gibbs, favorably knoAvn to the scientific Avorld, and highly regarded by 
his fellow-citizens of his adopted Territory, thus alludes to the universality of 
coal indications : 

The wbolc of this formatiou has been considered by geolog-ists as tertiary, and the coal 
as not belonging to the true ccal. Bo this as it may, its value for economical purpose is 
unquestionable. Even that on tlie Cowlitz and Skookum Chuck, though inferior to the pro- 
duct of the Dwamish and Bellingham bay mines, was abandoned only from its not being 
accessible to tide-water. 

A singular circumstance in connection with this subject has been noticed at the southern 
end of Whidby"s inland. A crevice in the earth exists there, from Avhich smoke constantly 
ascends, rising undoubtedly from the burning of a bed of coal or lignite beneath. The clay 
around its edge is said to be baked of a brick red. It has been burning since the settlement 
of the country, and is popularly called a volcano. 

No scientific exploration whatever has been made of this region, nor even such an ex.ami- 
nation of particular beds as to justify any opinion respecting their value. Such experiments 
as have been tried indicate that for steaming purposes the quality of the coal is A-ery good, 
but to what extent the beds can be worked is not settled. They appear on the edge of the 
Avater, most of them not above the liigh tides of Avinter, and it would seem that tliey dip 
slightly in shore, as Avell as in a direction parallel to it. From the appearance of upturned 
edges of sandstone between high and low-water mark, it is conjectured that the coal extends 
beneath the surface of the bay, and that to the north of it it Avill be perhaps found in place 
and in the natural position of the strata. The formation commences at the Columbia river, 
where lignite or brown coal is found in thin seams, and extends continuously northward to a 
great distance, the quality of tlie coal improving in that direction. 

Bellingham Bat Mines. — These mines are located in the extreme north of 
the Territory, and haA^e already acquired a Avide-spread reputation, not only for 
their extent, but also for the quality of the coal. In the fall of 1852, Captain 
William Pattle, then engaged upon a contract to furnish the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany Avith timber from Lopez island, crossed over to the shore of Bellingham 
hay in search of suitable trees for his purpose ; Avliile Avalking along the beach, 
he observed several seams of coal. Himself and two parties Avorking Avith him 
(Messrs. Monison and Thomas) each immediately located adjoining claims of 
160 acres, fronting upon the bay, under the provisions of the donation laAV, then 
in force in this Territory, The northernmost one Avas taken by Pattle; it is 
next south of the claim on Avhich the present toAvn of Sehomo is erected ; the 
other claims Avere taken in the order named. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 569 

Messrs. Pattle, Morrison & Thomas leased these claims to a San Francisco 
compan}', who sent Captain William A. Howard (now of the United States 
Tfivcnue service on duty at Sitka) to the bay as superintendent. A vein was 
opened on the " Morrison claim," called the " Ma-moosie mine," from which a cargo 
of 150 tons was taken out, when the enterprise was abandoned. George Gibbs, 
esq., the geologist of the western branch of the Northern Pacific Eailroad Explo- 
ration, thus speaks of it, March 1, 1854 : 

The seam which had been most worked, that known as the Ma-moosie mine, was altogether 
eight feet through, but divided by three feet of clay and slate, leaving only an equal amount 
of workable coal. A drift had been carried in about 175 feet, the quality improving somewhat. 
About 150 tons only had been got out, which was mostly on board a vessel bound to San 
Francisco. 

The 'Tattle claim" has upon it a vein 11 feet thick. No attempts, however, 
have been made to develop it, except that Captain Pattle himself took out by 
hand a small quantity of coal. The claim now belongs to Reuben L. Doyle, esq., 
of Whidby's island. The '^ Thomas claim" is settled upon by Daniel W. Harris, 
who has occupied it since its abandonment by Thomas. In it are two seams 
visible from the beach. No real attempt at work has ever been done upon this 
claim. 

In 1860, Mon'ison sold his claim to Charles E. Eichards, esq., (to whom as 
assignee the United States government issued patent in 1866.) In 1860, Mr. 
Richards associated with him several gentlemen under the name of the Union 
Coal Company. They opened a vein and sunk a shaft about 100 feet. The 
vein worked was but two feet in thickness, although there was another of 
eight or nine feet upon the claim. That company took out and shipped to San 
Francisco an aggregate of about 2,500 tons. This claim has lately been trans- 
ferred to a company in New York, who propose the present fall to commence a 
thorough system of operations. 

The mine of the Bellingham Bay Company is the mine upon wdiich the repu- 
tation of this whole region has heretofore depended. It is situate between tho 
towns of Sehome and Whatcom, on the shore of the bay, about two miles north 
and east of Pattle's discovery. The vein had been laid bare by the blowing 
down of a large tree. Claims were at once taken by the discoverers, Messrs. 
Brown and Hewitt, in the fall of 1853. Late that fall several gentlemen of 
San Francisco formed the Bellingham Bay Company, and sent Captain W. H. 
Fauntleroy and Calhoun Benham, esq., to examine the mines. They purchased 
the two claims for $18,000. Colonel E. C. Fitzhugh, afterwards judge of the 
supreme court of this Territory, was for several years the superintendent,, and up 
to 1860 the shipment of coal to San Francisco averaged about 500 tons per year. 
In 1860 the old Bellingham Bay Company leased these mines to Moody and 
Sinclair, granting to the lessees the privilege of taking out 1,000 tons per month. 
But the yield exceeded that quantity ; their exportation the first year amounted 
to not less than 15,000 tons, which gradually increased each subsequent year. 
In 1866 the present management commenced, with Colonel A. Hay ward, the 
modern Croesus, holding the controling interest. R. E. Myers, esq., is resident 
superintendent. The delays in the fall of 1866, incident to the change of man- 
agers, caused a suspension of active mining operations. By the time matters 
were satisfactorily adjusted the mine took fire, the extinguishment of which pre- 
vented the resumption of mining till June, 1867. Indeed, now (September 1) 
the lower gallery is not yet completely pumped out. This company own about 
3,000 acres of land in compact form, and have expended in improvements not 
less than $100,000. The shaft is about 500 feet deep, the slope at an angle of 
45°, decreasing as you descend ; the first gallery 300 feet down, and the one 
now being worked extends some 600 yards. The lower gallery, which is still 
being pumped out, (though in it operations will soon be, if they are not already, 



570 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



renewed,) lias l)een worked to the distance of GOO yards. It is in contemplation 
this fall to widen the slope to admit a double track, enabling the simultaneous 
descent and ascent of cars into and from the mine. About 100 tons per day are 
now being taken out, but arrangements are in progress by which the daily yield 
will be increased to 400 tons. The present cost per ton to put on shipboard is 
about $3. Practical miners express the opinion that if the claim -was worked 
further from the beach there would be less slate, the coal would be clearer, and 
the expense per ton could be materially reduced by the cleaning process being 
rendered unnecessar}\ 

Mr. John Hewston, well known on the Pacific coast as a leading chemist, 
analyzed this coal in October, 1858. The following is his report: 

Specific gravity 1. 309 

Water (hygroscopic) 5.60 percent. 

Dry coal 94.40 

The dry coal consists of— 

Carbon 74.41 

Hydrogen 4. 63 

Oxygen, nitrogen, and sulphur 17.61 

Ashes (red) 3.35 

100. 00 

Amount of coke procured 62. 60 per cent. 

Subjoined is a copy of the analysis of various samples of Welsh, Newcastle, and Scotch 
coals, with which it will be seen the analysis of the sample from Bellingham bay compares 
very favorably : 



Locality or name of coal. 


1 

O 

'C 


o 

.Q 
a 
O 


to 

o 


.a a 
£■& 

to fc. 

g'a 

O 


< 


^ 03 


WELCH. 


1.31 
1.31 

1.29 
1.31 
1. 2.5 
1.9.5 
1.23 
1.25 

1.20 
1.31 
1.28 

1.31 


88.28 
90.27 

81.81 
80.20 
80.61 
81.85 
80.75 
82. 24 

76.09 
76.94 
74.55 

74.41 


4.24 
4.12 

5.50 
5.28 
5.26 
5.29 
5.04 
5.42 

5.22 
5.20 
5.14 

4.63 


4. 22 
4! 36 

5.55 
5.34 
9.88 
10. 35 
10.36 
9.40 

7.99 
14'. 75 
15.94 

17.61 


3.1c 

1.25 

7.14 
9.12 
4.25 
2.51 
3.85 
2.94 

10.70 
3.10 
4.37- 

3.35 


85.83 




79. 11 


NEWCASTLE COALS. 


64.61 




72.31 








59.20 


Buddies' West Hartley 




Hastings' Hartley 

SCOTCH. 


55.60 
58.45 




53.05 




49.80 


Bellingham Bay 


62.66 







WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



571 



The test for the calorific value of this sample of coal shows it to compare very favorably 
with the same coals, as will be seen by reference to the following table : 



Name and locality of coal. 



WELCH. 

Aberdarc Co's Mothyr 

NEWCASTLE COALS. 

Newcastle Hartley 

Carr's Hartley 

Healy 's Hartley 

Steamboat Wallsend 

SCOTCH. 

Wellwood 

Eglintou 

Belllngham Bay 



Pounds of water 
which 1 pound 
of coal is capa- 
ble of elevating 
from 38^ to 312'^ 
Fahrenheit. 




Pounds of water 
which 1 pound 
of coal is capa- 
ble of evapor- 
ating from 212° 
Fahrenheit. 



13.42 
13. 01 
12.78 
12.13 



11.94 
10.24 



Sto-lu-aua-mah Coal. — This exists in workable seams, but at present 
seems inaccessible to market. A specimen was sent by Commodore C. W. 
Skinner, United States navy, to Professor Walter R. Johnson for analysis. 
That distinguished chemist thus speaks of it : 

It seems to be one of the finest American coals which I have yet seen. It has a specific 
gravity of 1.315, and will weigh, in the merchantable state, from 51 to 55 pounds per cubic 
foot, according to size of lumps, and will require on board a steamer about 42^ feet of space 
to stow one gross ton. It is of brilliant lustre, wholly free from liability to soil. It is com- 
posed of — 

Volatile matter 40. 36 

Fixed carbon 56. 84 

Earthy matter 2.80 

100. 00 



After the luminous flame ceases the coke burns with a bright glow, and leaves a light 
brick red, or salmon-colored ash. 

In coking, the coal scarcely increases in bulk, has no tendency to agglutinate, and conse- 
quently preserves an open fire, burning freely, and does not cover itself with ashes to such a 
degree as materially to obstruct the combustion. I suspect the specimen sent to have been 
taken from near the outcrop of the bed. If so, we may reasonably expect that, when pur- 
sued under greater covering, the amount of illuminating gas given out will be greater than 
was shown hy this specimen. The coal seems to be nearly free from sulphur. The ratio of 
its fi.xed to its volatile combustible matter is 1.4 to 1, and, under a well-constructed boiler, 
ought to produce from seven and a half to eight and a half pounds of steam from 212° to 
one pound of coal burned. 

The Skooktjm Chuck Coal Fields. — The late Dr. R. H. Bigelow, who 
was thoroughly conversant with coal, and afterwards opened a mine in the 
vicinity of Seattle, made an examination of these veins. He thus describes the 
geological position of the coal : 

Resting upon argillaceous and sandstone shale, overlaid by new red sandstone, averaging 
(sandstone and earth) 30 to 50 feet thick, interspersed with ochre, red chalk, and a grayish- 
brown clay — such as is used in Europe for making fire-brick — the average thickness of the 
coal strata being from four to nine feet. The coal, when ignited, retains a flame of the 
greatest fervency, leaves no cinder, and is perfectly free from all foreign substances. 

Clallam Bay Mlne, sometimes called the Thorndike mine, after its dis- 
coverer. Captain J. K. Thorndike, formerly of Port Ludlow, Washington Ter- 
ritory, is situated on the Straits of Fuca, about midway between Pillar bay and 



572 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Clallam bay, 23 miles east of Cape Flattery. Captain Thorndike thus describes 
bis discovery : 

The height of the mountain is from 1,000 to ],200 feet ; the formation is sandstone. Six 
leads of coal, ranging' in thickness from one to three feet, dip 10 degrees, distance between 
coal leadsranging from 12 to 100 feet. From high-water mark, 30 feet ; to low-water mark, 
150 feet. From coal leads to five fathoms' water, about 600 feet. 

An officer on the United States steamer Massachnsetts tlms speaks of the 
character of this coal : 

I find it superior to any coal I have seen on this coast, with one exception — that is its 
rapidity of combustion. It leaves about five per cent, of clinker, which, with proper tools, 
can easily be removed from the grates. The weight is 47 pounds per cubic foot, and deposits, 
including clinker, about 30 per cent, by measure. It compares with Cumberland coal for 
weight against equal bulk as 8 to 10 ; evaporative efficiency, 6 to 10. 

An analj'sis of a specimen of this coal by Professors J. H. Alexander and 
Campbell Morfitt exhibits the following result : 

Specific gravity, at 62^ Fahrenheit ]. 316 

Carbon, volatile and fixed 0. 69272 

Hydrogen 0. 06778 

Sulphur, volatile 0.03402 

Oxygen, nitrogen „.., 0. 12048 

Ash 0.08500 

:. 00000 



This mine is now being worked under the auspices of a California company, 
and but recently a cargo of 450 tons was shipped to San Francisco. The great 
draAvback here is the absence of any harbor or good anchorage.* 

Seattle Mine. — The extensive coal fields in the immediate vicinity of the 
flourishing town of Seattle are now commanding great attention. The earliest 
attempted development was in 1854, upon what is known as the Bigelow mine, 
on Black river, about 10 miles from Seattle in a direct line. This mine is 
accessible by light-draught steamers to within several hundred feet. It Avas 
recently purchased by S. B. Hinds and Companj^, an enterprising firm at Seattle, 
who have commenced active operations towards its development. All work upon 
it had been suspended for years before the death of its original owners, Dr. R. 
H. Bigelow. A shaft is being sunk, which will reacli the coal at the depth of 
70 feet, from the mouth of which, by a chute, the coal can be directly laden into 
scows or barges. The vein at the croppings is 23 feet thick, mostly clean, pure 
coal, mixed with dirt on the sides, but to all appearances free from slate or sul- 
phur. No analj'sis has been made, but smiths who have used it pronounce it 
superior, for their purposes, to any coal obtainable on this coast, though inferior 
to the Cumberland. It bums up very clean, leaving nothing but a clear white 
ash, with no clinkers. 

Lake Washington Coal Fields. — These mines, which are now attracting 
so much interest, are situated from two to three miles east of Lake Washington, 
and are distant from Seattle in a direct southeast line eight or nine miles. Coal 
of the same character is also found in the Squak valley, some three or four miles 
southeast of Lake Washington ; in fact, through this whole region, for some miles 
distant. By gome these scams are regarded as continuous. But the country lying 
between is rugged and mountainous, and it may be found that the basins are 
separate, though without doubt they were originally the same deposit. The 

* George Davidson, esq., in his Directory of the Pacific Coast, thus describes this bay : 
" The shore-line is nearly straight, bluff, and bordered by rocks, with an occasional stretch 
of sandy beach. The bay is at the western termination of a high, bold, wooded ridge, run- 
ning parallel to the shore, with an almost perpendicular water-face, and falling away rapidly 
inshore. This easily recognized ridge is about 1,000 feet high and seven miles long. The 
water along the face of this ridge is very deep, and the bottom rocky and irregular. * * * 
Off the mine, at the distance of a cable's length, a depth of 35 fathoms is found, with a 
swell upon the rocks sufficient to destroy any boat loading there." 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 573 

Rev. George F. Wliitwortli, a gentleman of scientific culture, whose judgment is 
entitled to great respect, thus speaks of these mines : 

The coal is feund in what I take to be the tertiary formation. It is not as solid as the 
Cumberland coal, nor is it of the same specific gravity; but it should be borne in mind that 
all the coal as yet tai^en out is little better than mere outcroppings. Some of the very first 
coal taken out. upon being tested, was found of the specific gravity of 1.178, while similar 
samples from the Nanaino at the time of its opening were 1.04. The later coal, from the 
deep of the seam where it is now worked, is 1.25. A similar increase may be expected as 
this coal is more deeply worked. It is remarkably clean, is a jet black, and as we advance 
along the seam is becoming much harder. Some of it seems to be nearly as hard as anthra- 
cite. It burns with a clear flame, does not emit the black smoke so common to other coals 
on the coast, and so far as tried it is pronounced superior for purposes of steam. Its heating 
power seems to be very great. It burns up thoroughly, making no clinker, and leaving a 
very small proportion of ashes. 

Competent engineers, employed in the navigation of these waters and in found- 
ries connected with our large mills, speak of this coal as "kindling quickly, 
burning freely and clean, emitting a strong heat, making little or no clinkers, 
and leaving about 10 per cent, in ashes." One of them, an old engineer, says : 
'' For steaming I prefer it to any coal I have as yet tried on the Pacific coast." 

Two companies have been incorporated for the purpose of working these mines. 
The first, called the " Coal Creek Road Company," derive their act of incorpo- 
ration from the legislative assembly, with right of way to build a rail or tram- 
road from their mine upon Coal creek along its bank to where it empties into 
Lake Washington, (distance three miles.) The capital stock, in shares of $200 
each, may be increased from 85,000 to $500,000. The mine of this company is 
on a quarter section of land, distant in a direct line from Seattle about eight miles. 
The Lake Washington Coal Company, incorporated under the general incorpo- 
ration law of the Tenitory, own three quarter sections, adjoining the claim of 
the Coal Creek Company. Capital stock $500,000, divided into shares of $100 
each. 

Mr. Whitworth's description of the mines of the latter company will give a 
general idea of all these mines. He says : 

We have four seams of coal, but have only opened two of them at a point where they crop 
out on the creek, and have only penetrated them on a level from 30 to 50 feet from the 
entrance. So far as wo have gone there is very little lying above where we have worked, 
hence no great amount of pressure, but with every seam we have a good floor, and covering 
of sandstone. They all dip at the same angle SS"-* toward the north, and their general direc- 
tion is from east to west. The seams we are working would be counted as the second and 
fourth in the series, the latter being the furthest down the creek, but is the highest in the 
strata, and consequently the latest in formation. This seam is about seven feet thick, but 
has from one to two feet of slate or fire-clay, which separates quite freely from the coal in the 
process of mining, leaving about five feet of pure coal. Seam No. 2 is about 10 feet thick, 
and has only one or two thin streaks of clay of about half an inch thick, which also sepa- 
rates from the coal in mining, giving over nine feet of pure coal to the seam. The coal in 
each seam is very similar, but that in No. 2 is deemed the better. The other seams have not 
been worked, but judging from the outcrop are similar both in size and quality to the other 
two. I am, however, of the opinion that when we get to work at seam No. I, which is geo- 
logically 500 feet below the others, it will be found really superior to any of them. 

The attempt has been made to exhibit the character of coal as it is found in 
several localities remote from each other. That there is good coal universally 
diffused, in quantities inexhaustible and generally accessible for transportation, 
cannot be doubted. Capital and energy are all that are requisite to develop 
these boundless sources of wealth. Nature has made the Territory the " Penn- 
sylvania" of the Pacific. Possessed of such a resource, there can bo no cause 
for discouragement as to the future prominence, wealth, and importance of the 
Ten-itory of Washington. 

Ship-building.— Mr. Joseph Cushman, receiver of public moneys at Olym- 
pia, has kindly furnished the following data in reference to the resources of Puget 
sound : 

The time is not far distant when "nearly all the ship-building on the Pacific 



574 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

coast will be done on the shores of Puget sound. No other jilace has the same 
natural advantapfes for buikUng' either sail or steam vessels. From the Cascade 
range to the Pacific, comprising about one-half of Washington Tenitory, the 
surface is densely covered with the finest forest growth in the world; some of 
the trees, straight as an arrow, are 400 feet in height, and 14 feet in diameter 
near the ground. Varieties of tlie fir predominate, interspersed with spruce, 
hemloch, tamarack, white cedar, maple, ash, white oak, and on some of the moun- 
tain slopes white pine. 

The yellow fir fabler JDonglasU) is a tree peculiar to the north Pacific coast 
from the 42d parallel to Alaska, and is only found east of the Cascade range 
north of the boundary of 49°. This is principally the timber used at the saw-mills 
on the sound, and is both strong and durable; in fact, it is the strongest timber 
on the coast, both in perpendicular pressure and horizontal strain.* It is dura- 
ble for ship frames, decks, outside plank, and spars, and will hold fostering bet- 
ter and longer than the common acidulous oak. The abundance of timber, coal, 
water-power, and iron ore in the vicinity of navigable waters, together with fine 
harbors, large saw-mills, temperate climate, and natural facilities for manufac- 
turing cordage, all clearly indicate that the Puget sound country will soon occupy 
a prominent position in ship-building. ^British Columbia and Vancouver's island 
can be the only possible rivals on this coast, and their vessels can only freight 
coastwise in British ports. Their facilities for ship-building may be a good argu- 
ment for annexation, but not proper to discourse here. On the waters south of 
Port Townsend, what is generally called Puget sound, probably about 50 sea- 
going vessels have thus far been built. Some of them are fine steamers. Several 
schooners are now on the stocks, to be launched this autumn. Some 10 or 12 ves- 
sels will be l)uilt the next year, including two or three barks for the San Francisco 
lumber trade. Four or five hundred schooners, averaging 100 tons burden each, 
will be wanted for the northern cod fisheries; say 30 or 40 ships for the northern 
whaling fleet, and 30 or 40 more ships for the coal and lumber trade from the 
sound. Nowhere can these vessels be built so cheaply as where the timber costs 
a mere nothing, and where all other natural facilities exist. Capital only is 
wanted, and that w'ill naturally seek its own best interests ; skilled labor also 
W'ill seek its own reward ; so that it is hazarding little to predict that ship-build- 
ing will be one of the great interests of Washington Tenitory. 

Puget Sound and the Noethern Fisheries. — Prominent among the 
resources of the Puget sound country is the building of fishing schooners and 
using them in the northern cod fisheries. 

The cod and halibut banks in the north Pacific, both on the Asiatic and Ameri- 
can coasts, and also around the intervening islands, are knoAvn to be numerous, 
and fish abundant. 

The market for cured fish will increase with the supply. Five hundred 
schooners, averaging 100 tons burden each, and employing 5,000 men, engaged 
in the fishing business, with more than ordinary fisherman's luck, would not 
over suppl}' the Pacific market. San Francisco would, of course, be the whole- 
sale centre of trade and supply for California and other mining countries, the 
Pacific islands and fleet, Hongkong and other Asiatic ports, and all ports south 
to Valparaiso. Decayed codfish via the Horn will no longer be a marketable 
article in San Francisco. The Atlantic cod fleet, American, English, and French, 
number some 3,000 vessels, manned with about 30,000 men ; yet the price of 

* Experiments made by the French authorities in the imperial dock-yard at Toulon (see 
Forbes's Vancou^■er's Island, p. G2, and appendix to same, p. 14) show that masts from 
Vancouver's island are superior to the best class of Riga spars. The report of the French 
engineers, which is equally applicable to the masts and spars of Puget sound, says: "The 
principal quality of these woods is a flexibility and tenacity of fibre rarely met with in trees so 
aged ; they may be bent and twisted several times in contrary directions without breaking," 
and possess other rare qualities, such as " exceptional dimensions, strength, lightness, absence 
of knots, &c." 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 575 

dry and pickled fish 1ms been g-radually rising- for the last 15 years, and this, too, 
under the bounty act of Congress and the reciprocity treaty with Great Britain. 

The main eastern cod-fishing fleet lies at anchor in the eternal fogs of the 
Grand banks, in the track of nearly all vessels running between the eastern States 
and Europe. Owing to collisions and stormy seas on a rock-bound coast, and 
various other causes, the eastern fishing business is far more perilous to life than 
either the whaling or merchant service. It is not so on the waters of the north 
Pacific. Storms there are unfrequent during the fishing season, from April to 
September, and the climate is more mild and equable than on the eastern coast 
10 degrees further south. 

Puget sound has unrivalled advantages for prosecuting the cod and halibut 
fisheries at the north. No other locality except Vancouver's island has similar 
advantages, and their fish would be subject to heavy duties in American ports. 

With no rivalry from the east or elsewhere ; with abundance of fish, unfrequent 
storms during the fishing season, the best climate to cure fish, safe harbors, salt 
by the cargo at a comparatively low price, and all the requisite provisions for an 
outfit, it is scarcely possible to overrate the advantages of this region as the 
centre of the great fishery of the north Pacific. The sound Avaters are full of 
clams and small fish for bait. Good ship timber can be had near the shores for 
the mere cost of cutting. 

Situated only a few days' sail from the best fishing grounds, the sound must 
become the main depot of business. Fish cannot be properly dried and cured 
either in Kussian America or California; the climate of the former being change- 
able and too damp, and the latter too hot and dry. There is a large population 
of Fish Indians* both on the sound and in Russian America, or Alaska, who will 
make good sailors and fishermen. 

Finally, the market is extensive and highly remunerative. What more could 
be desired for the successful prosecution of the business ? Fishermen make good 
sailors; the cabin of the fishing smack is the school-house of the ocean. "The 
full development of this important br-anch of industry will be a great benefit to 
the sound country, to the whole coast, to the shipping interest, and to the gov- 
ernment as a great means of offence and defence during a war with any mari- 
time nation. 

* What Mr. Forbes says in reference to the fisheries of Vancouver's island is generally 
applicable on this coast. The business of fishing forms "an exceptional case as regards 
Indian labor, for in such an occupation as this the natives will work freely and better than a 
white man. Salmon, cod, halibut, sturgeon, herring, enlachon, &c., may all be caught in 
great quantities and prepared for export." (Vancouver's Island, its Kesources, &c., by 
Charles Forbes, esq., M. D., M. R. C. S., p. 62.) 



576 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

OREGON. 

SECTION I. 

BOUNDARIES, SUBDIVISIONS, NAVIGABLE RIVERS, AND TOWNS. 

In describing tlie loounclary lines of tliis State, we cannot do better than quote 
froui the recent report of tlie Commissioner of tlie General Land Office : 

Oregon has California on the south and Washington Territory on the north, extending 
from the Pacific ocean to Snake river, the latter constituting a part of its eastern boundary. 
It is 350 miles long from east to west, and 275 wide from north to south, containing 95,274 
square miles, or 6U,975,360 acres, being about half as large as the State of California. 

The Coast mountains and the Sierra Nevada, traversing California, continue northward 
through Oregon ; the latter, after leaving California, are named the Cascades. Near the 
southern boundary the chain throws off a branch called the Blue mountains, which extends 
northeastwardly through the State, passing into Washington and Idaho. 

The course of the Cascades through the State is generally parallel with the shore of the 
Pacific, and distant therefrom an average of 110 miles. In California the direction of the 
Coast mountains and coast valleys is that of general parallelism with the sea-shore ; the moun- 
tains sometimes approaching close to the shore and then receding miles from it, leaving belts 
of arable land between them and the ocean. In Oregon the Coast range consists of a series 
of high lauds running at right angles with the shore, with valleys and rivers between the 
numerous spurs having the same general direction as the liighlands. 

In reference to climate and agricultural capacities, Oregon may be divided into two distinct 
parts, the eastern and western, lying respectively on the east and west sides of the Cascades. 

Western Oregon, the portion of the State first settled, and containing the great prepon- 
derance of its present population, is 275 miles in length, with an average width of 110, being 
nearly one-third of the whole State, and contains about 31,000 square miles, or nearly 
20,0(10,000 acres, all of which is valuable for agriculture, for grazing, or for timber-growing, 
excepting the crests of some of the highest mountains. It is more than four times as large 
as Massachusetts, nearly three times as large as Maryland, and is greater in extent than the 
United areas of Maryland, New Jersey, Massachusetts, and Rhode Island. 

Subdivisions. — Oregon is divided into 22 counties. The general character- 
istics, boundary lines, population, &c., of each county, are thus given in McCor- 
mick's Directory : 

Baker County is situated east of the Cascade mountains, embracing within its bounda- 
ries large tracts of excellent agricultural land, together with numerous valuable mining claims 
which are annually being developed. County seat. Auburn. 

Benton County contains an area of about 1,55G square miles, and is bounded on the 
north by Polk county, on the south by Lane, on the east by the Willamette river, and on 
the west by the Pacific ocean. Number of legal voters, 950. County seat, Corvallis. 

Columbia County is bounded on the north and east by the Columbia river, on the south 
by Washington and Multnomah counties, and on the west by Clatsop county. According 
to the late census, it contains a population of 449, viz : males, 297 ; females, 152. Number 
of voters, 173. Acres of land under cultivation, 745. The total value of assessable property 
in the county is $159,970. County seat, St. Helens. 

Clackamas County is bounded on the north by Multnomah, on the east by the Cascade 
mountains, on the south by Marion and on the west by Washington and Multnomah. Popu- 
lation, 4,144. County seat, Oregon City. 

The establishment of a woollen factory and a paper mill at Oregon City has proved bene- 
ficial to its progress. Number of legal voters in the county, 1,242. Number of males, 2,448 ; 
females, l,(j9(3. Acres of land under cultivation, 0,092. Value of assessable property, 
$1,605,594. 

Clatsop County contains a population of 689, viz : males, 388; females, 301. Votei's, 
179. Acres of land under cultivation, 760. Value of assessable property, |280,000. County 
seat, Astoria. 

CuuRY County is situated in the extreme southwestern portion of the State, and contains 
a population of 389, viz: males, 224; females, 165. Number of voters, 105. Number of 
acres of land under cultivation, 400. Value of assessable property, $100,600. Large quan- 
tities of good land, suitable for cultivation, remain unoccupied in this county. A new mining 
district has recently been opened near the mouth of Rogue river, where hundreds of men can 
find employment during eight months of the year. County seat, EUensburg. 

Coos County is situate in the southern portion of the State, on the coast, between Douglas 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 577 

and Curry counties. The population, according to the late census, is 1,024, viz : males, G37 ; 
females, 387. Number of voters, 313. Acres of land under cultivation, 950. Value of 
assessable property in the county, $200,000. County seat. Empire City. 

Douglas CoUNTYcontainsapopulationof about 4,000, viz: males, 2,250 ; females, 1,750. 
Number of voters, 1,139. Number of acres of land under ciiltivation, 21,404. Value of 
assessable property, $1,331,208, County seat, Roseburg. 

Grant County contains a population of 2,250, viz: males, 2,000 ; females, 250. Num- 
ber of voters, J, 300. Acres of land under cultivation, 5,000. Value of assessable property, 
$29.3,000. County seat. Canyon City. 

Jackson County is situate in the southern portion of the State, and contains within its 
boundaries rich gold mines, which give employment to a large number of its citizens. The 
population of the county is 2,955, viz: males, 1,755; females, 1,200. Number of voters, 
1,253. Acres of land under cultivation, 13,901. Value of assessable property, $1,298,465. 
County seat, Jacksonville. 

Josephine County is situate in the southern portion of Oregon, between Jackson and 
Curry counties, and contains a population of about 2,000. The assessable property in the 
county is estimated at $300,000. County seat, Kerbyville. 

Lane County is situate in the central portion of the State, extending from the Pacific 
ocean to the Cascade range. The po;.ulation of this county is 5,527, viz: males, 3,077 ; 
females, 2,450. Number of legal voters, 1,318. Acres of land under cultivation, 30,083. 
Value of assessable property, $3,000,000. County seat, Eugene City. 

Linn County is situate north of Lane, and contains a population of 7,709, being an increase 
of 937 since 1866. In 1850 the population of this county was only 994. Linn county con- 
tains an area of 877 square miles, or 561,200 acres. Number of males in the county, 4,235; 
females, 3,474. Voters, 2,250. Acres of land under cultivation, 49,405. Value of assessa- 
ble property, $2,500,000. During 1865 a splendid brick court-house was erected at Albany, 
the county seat, at a cost of $31,000. The post offices in this county are Albany, Peoria, 
Lebanon, Scio, Brownsville, Piue, and Harrisburg. 

Marion County contains a population of about 9,000. County seat, Salem. 

Multnomah County is situate on the banks of the Willamette river, in the northern 
portion of the State, and is the wealthiest county in Oregon. It contains a population of 
7,000, viz : males, 4,020 ; females, 2,980. Number of voters, 1,723. Males under2], 1,540. 
Acres of land under cultivation, 4,051. The total value of assessable property is $4,517,291. 
Since 1865 the population has increased 1,086. Portland, the county seat, is the principal 
city in the State. During the past year a new court-house has been erected at a cost of 
$100,000. Numerous brick buildings and dwelling-houses have also been constructed, and 
the city wears an aspect of general prosperity. 

Polk County contains a population of 4,993, viz : males, 2,788 ; females, 2,205. Number 
of voters, 1,125. Acres of land under cultivation, 90,127. Value of assessable property in 
the county, $1,033,179. County seat, Dallas. 

Tiliamook County contains a population of about 300. 

Union County is situate east of the Cascade range of mountains, and contains a popu- 
lation of about 2,000, Number of voters, 705. County seat, Le Grande. 

UiAIAtilla County contains a population of 1,805, viz: males, 1,049; females, 75G. 
Number of voters, 797. Acres of land under cultivation, 5,770. Value of assessable prop- 
erty, $887,148. 

Wasco County contains a population of 1,898, viz: males, 1,092: females, 806. Num- 
ber of voters, 604. Value of assessable property, $1,771,420. County seat. Dalles. 

Washington County contains a population of 3,491, viz : males, 1,903; females, 1,578. 
Number of voters, 824, being an increase of 120 since 1865. Acres of land under cultiva- 
tion, 14,224. County seat, Hillsboro'. 

Yamhill County contains a population of 4,018, viz: males, 2,200; females, 1,818. 
Number of voters, 1,082. Acres of land under cultivation, 26,343. Value of assessable 
property, $1,000,000. County seat, Lafayette, 

37 



578 



REFOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Census of Oregon in 1865. 



Counties. 


1 

g 

3 


•a 


01 

d 

'§ 'T, 
" o 


d 
u 

•3 

a 
s 

"3 


a 
a 

co-p 

" 3 

S ^ 


CO 

"3 ■a 


d 
a 
"3 

e 


d 

_o 

"3 
c 
o 
p. 

o 




739 

413 

903 

13-2 

107 

114 

197 

939 

1,402 

976 

328 

1,867 

1,318 

'->, 004 

1, 723 

944 

64 

CfiO 

791 

604 

704 

978 


744 

419 

898 

136 

218 

117 

225 

947 

1, 592 

979 

349 

1,885 

1,322 

2,C40 

1,866 

957 

64 

749 

841 

613 

735 

998 


082 

60 

507 

55 

71 

20 

28 

419 

101 

261 

44 

900 

645 

932 

453 

490 

18 

158 

205 

135 

350 

442 


599 

105 

701 

65 

99 

58 

85 

719 

137 

515 

118 

1,450 

1,110 

1, 536 

1,087 

841 

36 

142 

350 

344 

613 

7t6 


525 

126 

719 

78 

143 

45 

97 

614 

202 

512 

127 

1,370 

899 

1,612 

1,464 

731 

37 

32G 

336 

369 

588 

778 


270 

37 

360 

46 

57 

20 

30 

329 

54 

196 

35 

741 

489 

791 

497 

397 

23 

99 

240 

109 

307 

323 


533 

110 

617. 

48 

101 

46 

86 

681 

107 

492 

119 

1,363 

1,062 

1,460 

1,019 

677 

34 

331 

362 

328 

513 

771 


3,353 


j^aker 


857 




3,802 




423 




689 




306 




551 




3,7C6 




2,193 




2,955 




792 




7,7C9 




5, 527 




8,371 




6,386 


Polk 


4,093 




211 


Umatilla 


1, 805 




2, 334 




1,898 




3,106 


Yamhill ^ 


4,018 




17, 997 


18, C94 


C, 976 


11,416 


11,695 


5,449 


10, 860 


*G5, 090 







*Estimatecl population January, 18G8, 76,000. 

Navigable Rivees.* — Tlie Columbia, Willamette, Snake river, and Pen 
d'Oreille or Clark's Fork are the four principal navigable rivers, to whicb may 
be added the names of rivers navigated for short distances during the season of 
high water, as follows : Cowlitz river, emptjang into the Columbia ; Yamhill, 
Tualitin, and Santiam, emptying into the Willamette ; and Clearwater, emptying 
into the Snake river. All these rivers have been, and are now being, success- 
fully navigated by steamers. 

The Columbia is the principal river, and is obstructed at different points by 
falls and rapids of such a character as to prevent its continued navigatit)n. This 
great river is divided into four navigable sections. The first is from its mouth 
to the Cascades, a distance of IGO miles.- As far up as the mouth of the Willa- 
mette it is a broad, deep river, navigable at all seasons by the largest vessels 
that cross the bar at its mouth. The obstruction to navigation at the Cascades 
is of such a character as to make a portage of six miles necessary. This portage 
is now made by means of a railroad stocked with excellent locomotives and 
cars. The second section of the Columbia is from Cascades to Dalles, a dis- 
tance of 50 miles, through the Cascade range of mountains. Here is another 
obstruction to navigation, known as the Great Dalles of the Columbia. This 
makes a second portage necessary, and is at present accomplished by means of 
14 miles of railway, equal in character to the road at the Cascades. The third 
section of the Columbia reaches from the Dalles (or Celilo) to Priest's rapids, a 
distance of 185 miles. From Priest's rapids to Fort Colville, a distance of 
about 100 miles, the river is so frequently obstructed with rapids that the navi- 
gation has never been attempted. Beyond Fort Colville, for a distance of 250 
miles into British Columbia, this great river is navigable, and is now being 
navigated by an American steamer of about 100 tons capacity. 

Snake river empties into the Columbia about 12 miles north of old Fort Walla- 

* I am indebted to Mr. J. C. Ainsworth, president of the Oregon Steam Navigation Com- 
pany, for the data furnished on this subject. It was prepared by Mr. Ainsworth in answer 
to questions in writing sitbmitted by me during a visit to Portland in August, 1867. — J. R. B. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 579 

Walla, and is navigable as high up fis Lewiston, in Idaho, a distance of 160 
miles. From this point, in ascending Snake river, you go almost due south, and 
fur an additional distance of 150 miles little or nothing is known of the river, 
except that it passes through a chain of high mountains, and is so obstructed 
with rapids and falls as to make navigation impossible ; but from above this 
chain of mountains, continuing in a southerly direction, the river is navigable a 
distance of 150 miles. A fine steamer of 200 tons capacity is now on this sec- 
tion of tlie river, and has succeeded in reaching a point within 30 miles of the 
Great Salmon Falls. By the use of this boat and the navigation of Salt Lake 
(which is said to be practicable) the land travel from Great Salt Lake City to 
Portland in Oregon would be reduced to about 400 miles. 

Pen d'Oreille river, or Clark's Fork of the Columbia, is navigable from foot 
of Pen d'Oreille lake to mouth of Jako, a distance of about 225 miles. Three 
fine steamers are now running from foot of the lake to Thompson's Falls, a dis- 
tance of about 150 miles. Two short portages, of less than seven miles in all, 
are made to connect these boats. One more boat, above Thompson's Falls, will 
enable the traveller to reach a point within 125 miles of Fort Benton, on the 
Missouri. 

The distance from the main Columbia to Pen d'Oreille lake is 160 miles, 
over a good wagon road. Thus the navigable waters of the Columbia and 
Missouri rivers are only separated by 360 miles of land travel, which can be 
reduced, by adding a fourth boat on Clark's Fork, to 285 miles. 

The Willamette river is navigable from its mouth to Eugene city, a distance 
of about 200 miles. The only obstruction to the navigation of this river is a 
forty-foot fall at Oregon Cit}', making a portage of one mile necessary. 

There are, in all, some 30 river steamers navigating the waters above named, 
with an average carrying capacity of about 125 tons each, and employed as fol- 
lows, to wit: semi-weekly from Portland to Astoria; tri-weekly from Portland 
to Monticello ; daily from Portland to Dalles ; tri-weekly from Dalles to Wal- 
lula ; semi-weekly from Wallula to Lewiston ; once a week from Fort Colville 
to La Porte, in British Columbia ; daily fi'om foot of Pen d'Oreille lake to Cabi- 
nett, on Clark's Fork; once a week from Cabinett to Thompson's Falls; daily 
from Portland to Fort Vancouver ; daily from Portland to Oregon City ; semi- 
weekly from Oregon City to Corvallis; once a week from Oregon City to Eugene; 
tri-weekly from Oregon City to Yamhill river. In addition to these regular 
routes there are several small steamers and propellers that run as business offers. 

The amount of freight and number of passengers carried on the different 
routes named is very difficult to ascertain, but from the secretary of the Oregon 
Steam Navigation Company I have obtained a statement of freight and passen- 
gers transported on the Columbia river fi-om 1861 to 1864, inclusive: 

No. of passengers. Tons of freight. 

1861 10,500 6,290 

1862 21,500 14,550 

1863 22,000 17,646 

1864 36,000 21,834 

The freight thus shipped was all up freight, and intended as supplies for mili- 
tary posts east of the Cascades and the different mining camps of Idaho, Wash- 
ington, and eastern Oregon. As late as 1860 the principal business on the 
Columbia river was the transportation of troops and supplies for the then Indian 
country east of the Cascades. 

The mineral developments made at a subsequent date in that vast section of 
country, extending from latitude 42° to 56° north, and from the Cascade range 
to the Bitter Root and Rocky mountains, have been the means of inducing per- 
manent settlements in several of the rich agricultural districts that lie in differ- 
ent parts of this country ; the result of which is that the military are now sup- 
plied with grain, flour, bacon, &c., at a less cost than was formerly paid for 



580 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

transportation alone, and the miner is supplied at rates that encourage him to 
prospect the country and thus develop its treasures. 

During the last two years the down freight on the Columbia has largely 
increased. During the month of June of the present year Walla- Walla valley 
alone shipped over 500 tons of flour for San Francisco and New York markets, 
retaining a surplus estimated at 20,000 barrels. To this must be added the 
new crop now being harvested, and variously estimated at from 200,^000 to 
300,000 busliels. Grande Ronde valley, situated at the foot of the Blue moun- 
tains on the east, has a large surplus — perhaps as much as Walla- Walla. Pow- 
der river and Boise valleys are producing large supplies. There are many other 
valleys in this section, rich in agricultural wealth, that only await the enterpris- 
ing emigrant, to offer him a luxuriant and happy home. 

The banks of the Columbia river, from its mouth as far up as the Dalles, are 
thickly wooded, principally W'ith fir, oak, cottonwood, and pine, and maple and 
ash are not uncommon and can be had in limited quantities. From Dalles to 
Priest's rapids, and from the mouth of Snake river to Lewiston, the banks and 
adjacent country are entirely destitute of timber. The vast and sparsely popu- 
lated country through which these rivers flow, east of the Cascade range, is cov- 
ered with a luxuriant "bunch grass." Stock raisers are appropriating a portion 
of this immense pasture, and are yearly accumulating fortunes by raising cattle 
and sheep, for which they find a ready and profitable market in the different 
mining camps of Idaho, Montana, Washington, eastern Oregon, and British 
Columbia. 

From the 1st of March to the 15tli of Jul}-, of this year, there were shipped 
on steamboats from Portland to Dalles 12,191 head of cattle and horses, G,283 
head of sheep, and 1,594 head of hogs. There has doubtless been an equal 
number driven across the Cascade mountains during the months of July and 
August, all intended for feeding, accumulating, and marketing as indicated. 

The whole country may be said to be mineral. Gold in paying quantities is 
annually taken from the banks of the Columbia river as low down as Umatilla. 
On Snake river the banks for miles below Lewiston are profital)ly worked by 
Chinamen. This extensive mineral section, embraced within the limits before- 
named, though adding considerable amounts annually to the treasure of the 
world, has scarcely been prospected. The work done to develop the mineral 
wealth amounts to little more than surface explorations. 

The Pen d'Oreille river runs through a magnificent grazing, agricultural, and 
timltered country, almost entirely uninhabited. 

The Willamette river drains the beautiful valley of that name. This valley 
is about 200 miles long and from 20 to 30 miles wide, and sustains a population 
of about 60,000, with ample room and resources for a million. It is rich in 
grain-growing and grazing lands, and contains extensive deposits of iron ore.* 
Coal and copper are also found, but as yet little developed. 

Portland. — The principal town on the Willamette river is Portland, situate 
on the west bank about 12 miles from its mouth. The location is excellent, 
and the city presents an appearance of thrift and prosperity indicative of the 
steady progress of the State. Many of the public buildings would be credita- 
ble to the best cities of the east of equal population. The new court-house, 
completed in 186G, the buildings of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company, 
and other public and private edifices, are among the neatest and most substantial 
specimens of architectm-e on the Pacific slope. 

Pojyitlation. — Another evidence of the prosperity ef Portland, says Mr. McCor- 
mick in his valuable directory, may be found in the annually increasing popula- 
tion of the city, which has increased in a ratio almost equal to any city in the 
Union. In 1863 the population of Portland was 4,057. In 1864 it amounted 

* See article on miscellaneous minfirals of Pacific coast. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 581 

to 5,819 ; in 1865 it was estimated at 6,068. In 1866 it increased to 6,508, 
according- to a census taken especially by canvassers for this work. The follow- 
ing table shows the population according to the several classifications : 

Males 21 years and upwards 2,017 

Males under 21 years 1, 104 

Females 2 1 years and upwards 1, 330 

Females under 21 years J, 108 

Colored, males 82 

Colored, females 43 

Chinese, males 208 

Chinese, females w 116 

Flouting population, estimated from hotel registers, «&c., «&c 500 

Total 6,508 

Being an increase of 440 inhabitants during the year just closed. These 
figures do not exhibit a very rapid growth, but they denote a steady progress, 
which must prove not only interesting but even satisfactory to the well-wishers 
of Portland. 

The present population of Portland is estimated at 8,000, and a rapid increase 
is expected during the ensuing year, owing to the reduced rates of passage from 
the east, and the recent gratifying progress in the development of the iron, coal, 
and agricultural interests of the State. 

Assessable property. — Mr. McCormick says : 

The assessable property in Portland is valued at $4,200,000. Taxes levied and collected 
during 1866, $400,000. Of this amount .f 91, 000 was collected for State, county, school, and 
road purposes ; $150,000 was collected by the ofEcers of the United States for federal pur- 
poses, and $159,000 (including licenses and fines) was collected by the city of Portland. Of 
this amount $75,000 was expended for street improvements, and $84,000 for general .ind 
special purposes. The salaries and fees of city officers during 1866 amounted to $15,000. 
The expense of city surveys, $3,700. The cost of boarding city prisoners, .$950. Salary 
of the city attorney, $1,000. Expense of the recorder's court and city police, $6,000. The 
amount expended in the improvement of the Willamette river last year exceeded $30,000. 
Of this amount $20,000 was raised by loan, and $10,862 obtained by special tax. The 
expense of lighting the city with gas was $3,000, and for furnishing the engine house and 
city offices with water, $600. The city printing during the year just closed cost $70(?. From 
the foregoing figures a crude idea^may be gathered of the approximate expenses of the sev- 
eral departments of the municipal government of Portland. 

Summary of produce shipped from Portland during 1866. 

Pork, 72 barrels, at $20 per barrel $1,440 

Apples, 68,860 boxes, at $1 per box 68,860 

Eggs, 1,763 packages, at $10 per package 17,630 

Bacon, 4,376 gunnies, at $16 per gunny ,.... 70,016 

Hides, 4,674, at $1 50 per hide 7,011 

Onions, 1,325 sacks, at $4 per sack 5, 300 

Sirup, 185 barrels, at $8 per barrel 1, 480 

Wool, 1,671 bales, at $40 per bale 66,840 

Pitch, 292 barrels, at $6 per barrel 1,752 

Varnish, 124 packages, at $10 per package 1, 240 

Dried apples, 2,603 packages, at $10 per package „ 26, 030 

Flour, 29,815 barrels, at $5 per barrel 149, 075 

Salmon, 2,564 packages, at $8 50 per package 21,794 

Staves and headings, 59,203, average 15,000 

Shocks, 14,972, at 40 cents per shook 1 , 989 

Value of specified merchandise, produce, &c 455, 457 

Value of gold dust, bars, &c 8,070,600 

The foregoing tables, although necessarily very incomplete, exhibit the gratifying fact that 
the export trade of Portland is greatly on the increase, the above amount being $1,120,533 
in excess of 1865. 

The next place of interest, ascending the Willamette, is OsAvego, eight miles 
from Portland. Here is located the first iron furnace on the Pacific coast. 



582 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Four miles a))ove tliis place is Oregon City, situated on the east bank, just below 
the Great falls. This is a thriving- little place of 1,200 inhabitants. Woollen 
and paper factories are the chief featiu'es of the place. Salem is about 65 miles 
by water from Oregon City, and is the capital of the State. It contains a popu- 
lation estimated at 4,000. Thirty-five miles further up is Albany, a prosperous 
town and known as the granary of Oregon ; estimated population, 2,500. The 
next place of importance is Corvallis, a flourishing little city of about 3,000 
inhabitants, distant from Albany 15 miles. Eugene City, 71 miles from Cor- 
vallis, is the next place of importance, and is located at the head of navigation 
on the Willamette river ; population estimated at 2,000. There are many small 
towns and neighborhood landings situated at different points between the places 
named, all or most of which present evidences of thrift. 

The principal towns on the Columbia river are, first, Astoria, about 18 miles 
from the bar; population estimated at 1,000. Nest is Cathlamette, 30 miles; 
then Oak Point, 12 miles; then Rainier, 15 miles; then St. Helens, 20 miles; 
then Vancouver, 24 miles ; then Cascades, 45 miles. All of these places, except 
Astoria and Vancouver, are small villages or landings. At Cascades is the first 
portage on the Columbia. On the north side of the river, as before stated, is an 
iron railroad six miles long ; on the south side is a Avooden trainway of six miles, 
over which passed all the freight of the upper Columbia prior to April, 1863, at 
which time the iron road was completed. The next town of any importance is 
the Dalles, 50 miles further up. This is a busy little place, containing a popu- 
idation of about 2,500. Here another iron railroad of 14 miles connects with 
the upper boats at Celilo. Eighty-five miles further up is Umatilla, the great 
landing-place for Idaho and eastern Oregon; its population is about 1,500. 
Thirty-five miles further up is Wallula, or old Fort Walla- Walla. This is the 
landing for Walla- Walla and Grande Ronde valleys, and during the season of 
low water is the landing for goods shipped to Montana via Pen d'Oreille lake, 
and for Fort Colville and British Columbia. This place, though one of the 
oldest, has only a population of about 200. The next and only place of any 
note above Wallula is LcAviston, in Idaho, distant about 160 miles. This place 
has a population of about 1,000, is the head of navigation on Snake river west 
of the mountains, and was formerly the seat of government of Idaho Territory. 



SECTION II. 

AGRICULTURAL AND MISCELLANEOUS RESOURCES. 

Oregon is peculiarly an agricultural and fruit-growing State, though by no 
means deficient in valuable mineral resources. Possessing a climate of unrivalled 
salubrity, abounding in vast tracts of rich arable lands, heavily timbered through- 
out its mountain ranges, watered by innumerable springs and streams, and sub- 
ject to none of the draAvbacks arising from the chilling winds and seasons of 
aridity which prevail further south, it is justly considered the most favored region 
on the Pacific slope as a home lor an agricultural, fruit-growing, and manufac- 
turing population. As yet it is but thinly settled, a fact owing in part to the 
injudicious system pursued under the donation act of 1852, by which large tracts 
of land (320 acres to single settlers, 640 to married couples) were held by per- 
sons who were unable to cultivate them ; and in part to the insufficiency of com- 
munication with the markets of the world. These drawbacks, however, will 
soon be remedied by the establishment of railroads, the increase of steam navi- 
gation, and the consequent accession of population. The Avonderful richness of 
the valleys, the extraordinary inducements to settlement by families, the beauty 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. . OOd 

of tlie scenery and healtlifulness of thp climate, must soon attract large immi- 
gration. The writer has traversed this State from the Columbia river to the 
southern boundary, and can safely assert that there is no equal extent of coun- 
try on the Pacific slope abounding in such a variety of attractions to those who 
seek pleasant homes. The Willamette, the Umpqua, Rogue River, and many 
others, are regions unrivalled for farming and stock-raising. 

The following extracts from a premium essay written by Mr. W. Lair Hill for 
the State Agricultural Society give a correct idea of the general resources £.nd 
productions of Oregon. The descriptions of the country and facts stated are 
entirely reliable : 

Oregon is peculiar iu climate, especially that portion lying west of the Cascade moun- 
tains, which is affected greatly by its proximity to the ocean. This portion has a climate in 
many respects closely resembling that of England. Although in a high latitude, it is mild — 
neither very hot in summer nor extremely cold in winter ; is damp and somewhat disagree- 
able during what is termed the rainy season, corresponding with the winter of the east ; but 
delightful through the summer and autumn. 

The climate in the eastern portion of the State has some resemblance to that of the older 
northwestern States, excepting the frequent rains which fall in those States during the late 
summer months. 

As a whole, the State of Oregon presents so great a variety of climate that it cannot be 
accuratel)' exhibited under any general description, and which will more fully appear from 
special descriptions and tables hereafter presented. It is a matter to be regretted that the 
compass of a brief essay does not permit the presentation of minute and extensive details of 
observations on this, as well as many other subjects connected with this infant State, so far 
as the same are obtainable ; but it is much more to be regretted that no record has been kept 
from which statistical information might bo collected, showing the industrial and commercial 
capabilities of the State, except to a very limited extent. 

Oregon was admitted into the Union iu February, 1850, and in 1661 began to give addi- 
tional promise of future prosperity by the discovery of rich and extensive gold mines on its 
northeastern border and the contiguous districts of Washington Territory. 

Physical Geography, &c.— All the country in North America lying west of the Mis- 
sissippi river has a common axis of elevation, which is the great chain of the Rocky moun- 
tains, and their southern continuation, the Cordilleras of Mexico. The Sierra Nevada range, 
with its northern extension, the Cascade mountains of Oregon and Washington Territory, 
constitutes a secondary axis which materially affects the entire country of the Pacific coast, 
both in soil and climate. To the volcanic forces of these two great central lines of subter- 
raneous commotion is originally due the physical geography of Oregon. 

It is generally known that the Rocky mountain range is chiefly of igneous composition. 
Some portions of this range are of plutouic character, while some bear unmistakable evi- 
dences that their upheaval was prior to the process of consolidation. Sandstone abounds in 
many places in these mountains, and very considerable silurian deposits are also found. 
Gold-bearing rocks occur in various localities. Where sedimentary rocks are found they are 
frequently regu'ar in their stratification ; generally, indeed, distorted from their original 
position, but nevertheless retaining perfectly their stratified character. These rocks are 
usually interlaid with micaceous slate, and rest on masses of granite and gneiss. Mica is so 
abundant in some places that it may be found in extremely thin flakes in all the water of the 
mountain streams. 

Of the same general character is the geological structure of the Cascade range, except that 
there is less of stratified rocks, and stronger indications of recent volcanic action are observed. 
Basaltic and granitic rocks constitute the geological basis of the country. Slate and other 
argillaceous rocks, and a sort of irreducable limestone, also characterize the western slope 
of the continent. Metamorphic features become more marked the nearer we approach the 
Pacific coast, until, arriving at the Cascade range, this characteristic is seen in its most clear 
and unmistakable aspects. 

Certain differences between the soil and vegetation on the east and those on the west side 
of this second volcanic axis of the country may, it is thought, be satisfactorily explained by 
atmospheric or meteorological peculiarities ; so that the upheaval of this ridge, notwith- 
standing those differences, was probably contemporaneous with that of the Rocky moun- 
tains, or at least at no earlier period. Whether this be so or not, it is certain that the Cas- 
cade range has undergone much more recent convulsions ; and, iirdeed, of the numerous 
vents standing along the summit line, some might be properly classed, at present, as active 
volcanoes. 

Between the Cascade and Rocky mountain chains, the countiy is composed of immense 
plateaux, interspersed with numerous unconnected mountain ridges, of recent volcanic origin. 
Some of these are covered with immense forests, while others are merely sterile masses of 



584 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

trappean rocks, piled together in rugged heaps by the elevatory force of internal fires. By 
some of these less noted elevations and by spurs projecting from the two main ranges, the 
broad table lands above mentioned are divided into three distinct valleys, or rather basins ; 
namely : 

The Utah basin, centring at Great Salt lake, but having many undulations forming 
minor geographical centres, to which its rivers flow and disappear in the sandy plains, or 
discharge their currents into inland lakes. This basin has no outlet to the sea. 

The Klamath basin, lying to the northwest of the Utah, and drained by the Klamath 
river, running to the Pacific ocean, and the river Des Chutes, emptying into the Columbia. 

The Columbia River basin extends over a vast area of country, including all that portion 
of Oregon lying east of the Cascade mountains, and known as eastern Oregon, except the 
small surface occupied by the Klamath, a part of which is in California, and an almost 
equally small portion of the Utah basin, which lies principally in Utah Territory. 

Eastern Oregon, besides containing several large lakes, is traversed by numerous rivers, 
but none are navigable except the Columbia and the Snake or Lewis river ; which two 
streams, however, aftbrd facilities for steamboat travel from the ocean, across the whole 
extent of the State in its greater dimension, from west to east. 

That portion of the State lying west of the Cascade mountains is divided into three prin- 
cipal valleys, the Willamette, the Umpqua, and Rogue river, drained by the rivers bearing 
these respective names. This country is quite different from eastern Oregon in respect to its 
physical geography, geology, and climate. 

Although the general character of this region is indicative of its having had formerly a 
volcanic origin, still there is found here a large proportion of sedimentary recks, especially 
sandstone and a sort of conglomerate of highly silicious composition, which often contains 
shells and other indications of its sedimentary formation. In the Willamette valley this 
feature is chiefly observed on the western side of the river ; and in the Umpqua and Rogue 
River valleys it becomes more marked on approaching the sea-coast. Shales and a sort of 
argillaceous limestone, irreducable by the ordinary process of heating and slaking, also 
abound in many places. The country here is of a much less mineral character than that 
east of the Cascade mountains, or even than those mountains themselves. Notwithstanding 
the evidences of volcanic origin common to all the western coast of America, and of which 
this region presents many, the rocks here, and especially on the Coast mountains, are often 
found regularly stratified, and in some instances their parallelism remains undisturbed for 
considerable distances. 

The geological basis of the Coast mountains is sandstone. Scoriaceous and trappean 
masses occur in the more volcanic localities. At the intersection of these mountains by the 
Umpqua river, sandstone prevails, and the strata remain uninterrupted, except at long 
intervals. 

Numerous bays and estuaries of different magnitudes intersect the shore along the western 
border of the State, and several streams having their sources in the Coast mountains flow 
into the ocean through small valleys of great fertility and beauty. 

Climate. — Eastern Oregon possesses a climate much resembling that of the Upper Mis- 
sissippi valley, but not so cold. It is dry and open ; usually somewhat bleak, owing to the 
large proportion of prairie land, but seldom bitter cold, the mercury rarely falling below 
zero in the extreme of winter. Last winter, however, it was exceedingly cold in this region ; 
but that was a winter unexampled in severity everywhere in the Pacific States. 

Spring in eastern Oregon is fine, early, and open. Summer is hot and generally dry, 
with cool nights. Variations of temperature, corresponding with difterences of altitude, are 
observed, sometimes amounting to several degrees at places only a few leagues apart. 
Autumn frosts begin some time in October, but it does not become wintry till very late. Lit- 
tle rain or snow falls except in the mountains. Eastern Oregon is exposed to an almost con- 
tinuous breeze which sometimes swells into quite a gale, but storms never occur. The wind 
in summer is from the southwest. 

Western Oregon has a moist, mild, and peculiarly uniform climate. Except in rare cases 
the \vinter is not cold nor the summer hot more than two or three days in succession, and 
extreme heat or cold never occurs. 

It is rarely necessary to feed stock for more than a fortnight, and frequently not at all 
during the whole year. 

The amount of rain which falls in this part of the State during the rainy season has been 
greatly exaggerated, as will be seen by reference to the annexed tables, which exhibit more 
specifically the ciimatical peculiarities of the State. 

Observations taken in several other States are inserted in some of the tables for the purpose 
of making comparisons. The first table is compiled chiefly from the Smithsonian report; 
tho rest are from various reliable souixes. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 
Table I. — Showing comparative mean temperatures. 



585 



Time. 



Years of observation 

Spring temperature 

Summer temperature ... 
Autumn temperature ... 

Winter temperature 

Whole time temperature 



1 1-5 



51.16 
61.30 
53. 55 
42. 43 
52.13 



52. 19 
67.13 
53.41 
39.27 
53.00 



2i 



53.00 
70.36 
52.21 
35.59 
52. 79 



m 



51.34 
72.51 
53.38 
29.80 
51. 76 



42. 33 
69.95 
42. 60 
13.06 
41.97 



5i 



59.97 
71.08 
64.36 
52.29 
61.93 



47.61 
70.17 
50.01 
25.83 
48.41 



3J 



47.36 
71.42 
50.34 



The only point in eastern Orep^on whose temperature is exhibited in this table is the Dalles, 
which, situated as it is, immediately at the base of the Cascade mountains, does not fairly 
represent the temperature of the extensive valleys further east, which constitute the ag^ricul- 
tural region of that country. The summer, in most of those valleys as well as on the table 
lands, is much warmer than at the Dalles. The winter temperature, it will be observed, is 
much higher than that of other States in the same latitude, while that of the spring is nearly 
the same, and the summer not quite so high. 

Table II. — Showing the number of rainy days during the jcinter, at Astoria, Oregon, Willa- 
mette valley, Oregon, and Peoria, Illinois, respectively. 



Month. 



Astoria, Oregon. 



1857-8 1858-9 1859-60 



Willam'tte 
valley, Or. 



Peoria, 111. 



1857-8 



November 
December 
January. . 
February. 

Total... 



This table includes all rainy days, without reference to whether it rained all day or only a 
part. It also includes snowy days, very few of which are seen in Oregon in an ordinary 
winter. 

In 184C-'47, Hugh Burns, esq., of the Willamette valley, kept a diary from which it 
appears there were four days of continuous rain in November, three in December, three in 
January, and two in February, making only 12 in the four months of the rainy season. 
During the same time there were 66 entirely clear days, viz : ]2 in November, 17 in Decem- 
ber, 16 in January, and 21 in February. From the first of November, 1845, to the first of 
March, 1846, there were 20 rainy and 40 clear days ; the rest were variable. 



586 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

Table III. — Showing the amount in inches, at Astoria, Oregon, and Peoria, III., respectively 



Month, 



January . . 
l''ebruary . 

Mui-ch 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August ... 
September 
October... 
November. 
December. 

Total . . . 



Astoria, Oregon. 



1858 1859 I860 



8.58 
4.80 
6.83 
3.52 
2.49 
1.38 
.44 
3.40 
3.91 
4.88 
8.06 
12.44 



60.73 



10.82 

12. C2 

21.52 

2.85 

3.17 

2.10 

.48 

1.42 

9.18 

5.46 

7.77 

6.16 



82. 95 



13.30 
6.69 
5.58 
5.69 
5.04 
1.40 
1.35 
.24 
2.54 
6.90 

12.44 



61.23 



Peoria, 111. 



1857 1858 



.37 
5.32 
3.84 
1.39 
2.80 
2.77 
1.40 
5.61 
2.16 
2.10 
1.62 
1.50 



30.88 



1.48 
1.95 
3. 15 
6.25 
10.64 
5.95 
5.85 
3.24 
2.96 
3.24 
4.85 



From this table it would appear that the amount of rain at Astoria is a little less than dou- 
ble that at Peoria ; the one in a country where the only winter known is a rainy season, and 
the other in a country distinguished for its cold and dry winters. 

Soil and extent of Agricultural Lands.— The two natural divisions of Oregon dif- 
fer in respect to the quality of their soil as well as in climate. The plateaux of eastern 
Oregon have a moderately rich soil whose chief component is silicia, and containing but a 
small amount of vegetable matter. Little effort has been made to test its capabilities for 
agricultural purpose until very recently. The experiment, so far as tiied, has proved exceed- 
ingly gratifying, and many persons maintain that these uplands are destined to be the first 
grain lands in the State. But the natural adaptation of these immense tracts is to grazing, 
cattle herdiHg, and bucalic pursuits. Rolling prairies and level plfins of almost illimitable 
extent stretch out from the foot of the Cascade mountains almost to the eastern border of the 
State, and are covered with luxuriant bunch grass, (fcstuca, ) iifi'or(\\ng au inexhaustible pas- 
ture for any amount of stock. This grows in large tufts not joined together bj' their tibrous 
roots, as is the case with most other grasses. It grows to different heights, from six to 18 
inches, according to the quality of the soil. In nutritive properties it is not excelled by any 
grass known. Attaining its full growth about the time the dry season commences, it cures 
into a line, tlavorous hay, which, owing to the absence of dew in this region in the summer, 
remains excellent until the autumn rains come, when the whole country is again covered 
with green grass. 

Mountain streams, having their sources in the mountain chains, intersect these table lands 
flowing through valleys and rondes of various dimensions and amazing fertility. The val- 
leys of the Des Chutes and its tributaries are all that have been extensively tested with cereals, 
and they have yielded very large crops. Vegetables of nearly all varieties yield almost fab- 
ulous crops. Indian corn does as well in eastern Oregon as in any State in the Union, and 
will soon become a staple production. Fruit promises finely. This is thought to be as good 
a fruit country as that west of the Cascade mountains, so justly denominated the "fruit 
garden of America." 

Its hot summers admirably adapt eastern Oregon to the culture of sorghum or Chinese 
sugar-cane ; and sufficient trial has been made to warrant the assertion that this plant can be 
produced here as successfully as in any of the northwestern States. Judge Laughlin, of 
Wasco county, who has paid some attention to the cultivation of this plant, in a published 
letter of his dated January 12, 18G], saj-s : " I have cultivated some (sorghum) the past two 
years, and find it grows remarkably well. * * It will produce double as much food as 
anything (else) I can raise on the same amount of land. * * Mr. Phelps, of this county, 
has inade some very nice sirup, and intends cultivating a crop for that purpose next season." 

The cost of making this sirup will not exceed 50 cents per gallon. Its market value can- 
not be less than one dollar per gallon throughout the country, and two or three times as great 
in the mines. Planted in April the sugar-cane matures well, and yields a large per cent, of 
saccharine juice. A farmer, who would give his entire attention to cultivating sorghum and 
manufacturing sirup in eastern Oregon, could not fail of amassing a large amount of money 
in a very short space of time. The extent of these valley lands is not definitely known, as 
no official survey has ever been made of the region in which they lie, excepting compara- 
tively small bodies in the vicinity of the Des Chutes. This stream, the largest atiluent of the 
Columbia in Oregon east of the Cascade mountains, flows through a valley large enough to 
maintain a population of many thousand persons. It has already some considerable settle- 
ments, mostly composed of stock raisers. 

John Day river waters a valley much larger than that of the Des Chutes, and of equal fer- 
tility. It is unsettled, and offers great inducements to farmers desiring homes near the mines, 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



587 



where market will always be ready, and produce will command high prices. It is about 30 
miles east of the Des Chutes and has the same general trend, both running north into the 
Columbia. 

Powder river runs through the largest valley in eastern Oregon, and probably pqual to 
any other in the excellent quality of its soil. Emigrants from the east are fast settling up 
this valley, and the prospect is that it will soon contain a large population. No settlements 
were made on Powder river previous to the discovery of the gold mines on its head waters 
but it is stated that a large number of the emigrants of this season have already selected their 
future homes there, and expect soon to be surrounded by an industrious and thriving com- 
munity, and enjoying all the amenities of civilization. 

Burnt river has its course through a broken region, very fertile, but better adapted to graz- 
ing than to agriculture. This stream is southeast from Powder river, and having the same 
general direction, flows northeast into Snake river. 

East of Burnt river the country is exceedingly uninviting. What valleys there are are 
small and frequently unproductive. The land, impregnated with alkalies, has scarcely any 
vegetation growing upon it except artemesia, or sage. Grass is scarce and of poor quality, 
oven along the streams. Of his entering the Burnt river country from this inhospitable 
waste, in his official explorations. General Fremont says he now came into " a mountainous 
region where the soil is good, and in which the face of the country is covered with nutritive 
grasses and dense forests ; land embracing many varieties of trees peculiar to the country, 
and on which the timber exhibits a luxuriance of growth unknown to the eastern part of the 
continent and to Europe. This mountainous region," he continues, " connects itself in the 
southward and westward with the elevated country belonging to the Cascade or California 
range, and forms the eastern limit of the fertile and timbered lands along the desert and 
mountainous region included within the great (Utah) basin." 

The Grande Ronde, lying a few leagues north of the Powder River valley, is a beautiful 
circular valley some 5^0 or 3U miles in diameter, watered by a stream bearing the same name. 
Surrounded by high hills or spurs of the Blue mountains, its amphitheatrical form, relieving 
its smooth, grassy surface, intersected by a bold stream fringed on either margin with small 
trees, renders it sufficiently charming, to say nothing of the fertility of its soil, which is 
unsurpassed. Settlements ai"e being made in this valley, also, by the emigrants who have 
come over the plains, but it will not all be occupied this season. 

The following analysis of the soil in Powder River and Grande Ronde valleys is reported 
by Fremont : 



POWDER RIVER. 

Silica 72.30 

Alumina G. 25 

Carbonate of lime = 6. 86 

Carbonate of magnesia 4. 62 

Oxideof iron 1.20 

Organic matter 4. 50 

Water and loss 4.27 



100.00 



GRANDE RONDE. 

Silica 70.81 

Alumina 10. 97 

Lime and magnesia 1.38 

Oxideof iron 2.21 

Organic matter 8. 16 

Phospate of lime 1. 38 

Water and loss 5. 46 



100. 00 



The Klamath basin, it is said, contains a large tract of good agricultural lands, but this 
may be questionable, as no experiments have yet been made to test its qualities for farming 
purposes. It is a fine grazing district; even in the midst of December it has been found 
covered with fresh and luxuriant grass. The Klamath is a magnificent lake, possessing 
one feature in particular, which lakes do not ordinarily have, viz: it has no tcatcr in it. It 
is a fact, though not generally known, that this lake is nothing more than a broad savannah, 
sometimes covered in places with a thin sheet of water for a brief period, but never entirely 
inundated, and capable of being easily drained and reduced to cultivation. 

Goose lake, Lake Abert, and some others of considerable size, lie in the northern part of the 
Utah basin, and are said to be surrounded by large tracts of as fine agricultural land as can 
be found in the State. That there is some good country around these lakes, is certainly 
true; but enough is not known of this region to warrant a positive statement that they are 
very extensive. 

Rogue River valley, occupying the extreme southern portion of western Oregon, and 
extending into California is a broken country, or series of valleys, separated by rolling 
highlands, covered in some places with dense forests of fir and cedar, and in others thinly 
timbered with oak, and finely set with grass. It is a very good country for farming, and a 
superior one for stock raising. Rogue river is not navigable on account of its numerous 
cascades. Like all the western portion of the State, this valley is well watered by numerous 
mountain streams, which are sufficiently large to afford motive power for running any amount 
of machinery. It is thinly populated, and would furnish homes for an indefinite number of 
immigrants. Jacksonville, its principal town, is a place of some importance as a mining 
town. 



588 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The Umpqna valley is a beautiful country, drained by the Umpqua rivev, a stream of some 
magnitude, and navigable 25 miles from its mouth for ocean vessels. This fertile valley 
contains 1,000,000 of acres. It is principally rolling or hilly land, the face of the country 
in many places forcibly reminding one of the rugged districts of Vermont, or the charming 
stories he read when but a child of the mountain home of the Swiss. 

Numerous tributaries of the Umpqua, some of them quite large, flow through the valley, 
affording excellent water privileges. Perhaps no country is more conveniently provided with 
good soil, good timber, and good water than the Umpqua valley. Its population is about 
4,500, leaving ample room for 20,000 more, allowing KiO acres to each family of four persons. 
Roseburg and Winchester, the most important places in this valley, are pleasant villages. 

But the most important agricultural district m western Oregon, and probably in the whole 
State, is the Willamette valley. It is separated from the Umpqua by the Calapooya moun- 
tains, a densely timbered belt, having an altitude of about 5,000 feet, and extending from the 
Cascade to the Coast range. This valley is drained by the Willamette river, flowing north into 
the Columbia, and which is navigable to the distance of 130 miles from its mouth, direct 
measure, with only a single obstruction, the falls at Oregon City. 

No person can survey the W^illamette valley with its alternations of rich meadow-like 
prairies, undulations, and beautiful streams, without feeling that he beholds the most delight- 
ful spot in America. The agricultural country lying along the banks of the Willamette, 
includes an area nearly equal to that of the entire State of Connecticut, with a combination 
of advantages inferior to no other section of the United States. Mr. William H. Knight 
describes this valley as " possessing a soil of unsurpassed fertility, a mild and genial climate, 
an abundant growth of timber, large natural pastures, where stock may range unsheltered 
the year round, an excellent commercial position, superior facilities for transportation, and a 
rapidly increasing population." This is stating the case in rather too strong a light, and 
requires some qualification in two of its particulars. The population of the Willamette 
valley has not increased very jvapidly for some years past, owing to causes which will become 
manifest when the subject of commerce is discussed. And the other modification proposed 
is, that we sometimes have a "cold snap" of two or three weeks duration in the winter, and 
the last winter still longer, so that stock may not ''range unsheltered the year round " every 
year, and should not be forced to do so any year, as the continuous rains of the winter 
months arc very injurious to all kinds of domestic animals. Aside from this slight inaccu- 
racy, Mr. Knight's description is certainly a very correct one, and the impulse given to the 
State by the recent discovery of extensive gold fields on the eastern border of the State, cannot 
fail to make it become speedily true in respect to the increase of population. 

This valley is mostly smooth prairie land, large bodies of it undulating, but not hilly, 
interspersed at intervals, never greater than a few miles, often much less, with streams of 
various sizes, flowing in across the valley from the mountains on either side. Ranges of 
low hills, covered with oak timber, are common throughout the valley. 

Some of the largest affluents of the Willamette, as the Santiam, Yamhill, and Tualatin, are 
navigable to considerable distances into the interior; while there is scarcely one which does 
not afibrd an ample volume of water to drive any desired amount of machinery for milling 
and manufacturing purposes. 

The Willamette, in coumion with all this region of the Pacific coast, belongs to the tertiary 
period. Sliells and ligneous petrifactions are numerous, and mammal fossils have been 
ibund in varioiis places, indicating a very recent formation. 

The soil of western Oregon may be divided into four general classes, viz : 

1st. A brown clay loam, of good quality, thinly timbered with oak, producing good grass, 
and affording fine stock range. It is found chiefly along the spurs of mountains or extended 
ranges of hills, never in the level prairie. 

2d. A dark or black porous soil formed by the admixture of vegetable mold with the 
clay loam just described. This soil occurs only in the valleys close by or between the moun- 
tains, and is unrivalled in productive power. Both of these classes are thirsty, and suffer 
whenever the summer drought is of very long duration. 

3d. A grayish calcareous sandy loam of exceedingly fine quality, covered with a thick 
turf of grass, and admirally adapted to the cultivation of cereals, especially wheat, oats, and 
barley. This class embraces five-sixths of the entire valley, including most of the prairie, 
and much of the oak-timbered land. It is little affected by drought, and though not naturally 
porous, is pulverized with great facility, and is exceedingly mellow. 

4th. A strictly alluvial soil, lying along the immediate banks of the river, and composed 
of sand, vegetable matter, and various decomposed earths, washed by the current from above. 
Most of this class of soil is overflowed in extraordinary freshets, which, however, never occur 
in the growing season of the year, and it is unexcelled in fertility. 

Many small and very rich valleys lie along the seacoast, and will doubtless yet become 
valuable. Among them are the Tillamook, situated on a bay of the same name, the Celets, 
the Yaquina on Yaquina bay and river, the Coquille on Coquille river. The Coquille and 
Tillamook already contain settlements of some magnitude. 

Harbors. — There are already opened four ports of entry in this State. The most import- 
ant harbor is that of the Columbia river, but it is not the only one likely ever to assume 
much importance. Umpqua river, Port Orford, and the Coquille want nothing but the set- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 589 

tlement of the rich districts surrounding them to bring them into consideration as commercial 
points, while vessels have entered several others and found good harbors. Yaquina bay, 
first brought to notice only a year ago, is said to be an excellent harbor, extending ;^.0 miles 
into the coast, and easy of access from the heart of the Willamette valley. 

Health. — It would seem inviduous to discriminate in favor of any portion of the State 
of Oregon in respect to its salubrity. Everything that nature could do to render a country 
perfectly healthful has been done for this State. The mountain air, not less than the moun- 
tain water, has a vivifying influence ; and the gentle breezes of summer, coming fresh from 
the sea, are a pleasant and efiectual preventive against all the violent diseases ordinarily to 
be feared in dry and sultry regions. 

The climate of Oregon is thought to be unfavorable to the health of persons who are pre- 
disposed to pulmonary atfections. This is probably true. Notwithstanding this general 
opinion, however, it is found that fewer persons die here of consumption, in proportion to 
the population, than in any one of the New England States. And it is certainly beyond 
question, that in every other respect, there is no other State in the Union worthy to be com- 
pared with this for salubrity of climate. 

Persons are frequently met with here who had been unable to perform any labor for years 
before leaving the east, on account of ill health, but have become rugged and strong in this 
country, and are now regularly engaged in their calling.'! without any physical inconvenience 
whatever. 

Miscellaneous. — Some peculiarities and special adaptation of this State deserve to be 
more particularly noticed, though space will not allow this to be done at length. 

Sheep. — A very intelligent writer of New England calls Oregon a " mammoth sheep pas- 
ture." From what has been exhibited of its soil, climate, and mines, it will be perceived 
that, with equal propriety and no greater allowance of hyperbole, it might be denominated, 
also, a mammoth grain field and vegetable garden, and a mammoth gold placer. In a country 
eminently fitted by nature for so many branches of business as Oregon, discrimination in 
favor of any one particularly will seem unwarranted, not to say unjust. But certainly if 
Oregon has a speciality, it is her pro-eminence as a wool-growing country Until very 
recently, little attention has been paid to the matter of sheep raising, but it is now becoming 
one of the staple interests of the State. Sheep thrive better here than in any other State. 
Disease among them is exceedingly rare. They increase here faster than in the east, and 
the wool is of excellent quality. Only one manufactory of woollen goods is yet in active 
operation. This is located at Salem. Another is in course of construction in Linn county. 
The wool clip of the State, in 1861, amounted to 444,000 pounds. That in 1862 (estimated 
by Mr. L. E. Pratt, of the Willamette Woollen Manufacturing Company) is 344,000 pounds. 
The difference of amount is owing chiefly to the losses of last winter. The average price of 
wool, in 1861, was 18 cents a pound ; in 18'32 it is 20 cents. In respect to the quality of 
Oregon wool, Mr. Pratt says "there is no inferior wool grown in the State." When the 
eastern papers quote the price of " Oregon burr wool," they mislead dealers to the prejudice 
of this State, as there are no burrs in the country ; they probably refer to wool grown in Cali- 
fornia, and are imposed upon by dealers of that State. 

I'he Willamette Woollen Manufacturing Company turn out annually 4,000 pairs of blanketa, 
10,000 yards flannels, 60,000 yards cloths and tweeds, and 4,000 pounds stocking yarn. The 
cloths are worth, on an average, $1 12.^ per yard ; the blankets, $8. 

The expenses of the factory are $.56,000. 

Lumber. — Everything has been done which nature could do to make Oregon to the Pacific 
what Maine is to the Atlantic coast. The best of timber, with unexampled water privileges 
convenient of access for sea-going vessels, leaves nothing to be desired in this respect but 
enterprising men who will engage in the business of supplying foreign markets. 

Fisheries. — All along the sea-coast 03'ster and salmon fisheries might be made highly 
profitable. The salmon on this coast are not only more abundant, but acknowledged to be 
of much better quality than those of the Atlantic. Clam and cod fisheries might also be 
established along the coast. 

Bees. — The introduction of bees into Oregon is of very recent date. They prosper well, 
and produce a large amount of honey. Three years since a hive was worth $150 ; now it is 
worth $25. 

Fruit. — Reference has already been made to this, but something a little more specific is 
required. For apples and pears Oregon is unrivalled. Cherries thrive passably well. 
Peaches do not generally succeed wall, except some very hardy varieties. Plums are in great 
abundance, and fairly flavored. Quinces and apricots flourish. Grapes are good, especially 
early varieties. Shrub fruits generally produce exceedingly well. All in all, Oregon is th.e 
fruit garden of America, if not of the world. 

Pulse of all kinds, like cereals, yield largely. 

Commerce. — From the geographical position and internal resources already shown, it does 
not require that much should be said of its commerce. Certain circumstances, however, 
have prevented the development of the strength of the State in this respect, the principal of 
which is the law under which the land of Oregon is held. At an early period of the settle- 
ment of the country, a law was passed by Congress donating 640 acres of land to each man 
having a wife — or rather 320 acres each to the man and wife — and 320 acres each to single 



590 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

men settling' in the Territory. The result of this large donation has been to render the popu- 
lation of the State so sparse that all interests of the body social, all the nerves of civilization 
and progress have been completely paralyzed. Tiiis effect has been visible more in connec- 
tion with the commercial than with any other branch of the social economy of the State, 
unless it be the educational. It is hoped, however, that these detrimental consequences of 
the nation's liberality will not longer continue to operate as they have done hitherto; since 
the largeness of the gift has reduced a great majority of the donees to such a condition as 
compels them to divide their large tracts of land. When this is done, and not before, Oregon 
will begin to exhibit that degree of prosperity for which God has given her such ample capa- 
bilities. 

Schools. — Oregon, though a new country, is not without its school system, and the people 
of the State manifest an interest in the subject of education which cannot fail of raising the 
intelligence and retinement of the country to a high standard as soon as the population is 
sufficient. Common schools are kept in almost every neighborhood, and grade schools and 
academies are located in several places. Limits of space forbid more specific statements. 

CiiLTitCHES. — Also the religious statistics of the State will evidence that the immigrant to 
Oregon need not fear that he is coming to a barbarous or half-civilized land. While the popu- 
lation of the State is only about 60,000, it contains 

Denomination. Churches. Memhcrs. 

Methodist 33 2,083 

Baptist 29 1,073 

Congregationalist 10 127 

Moravian 00 700 

Reformers, (number large, but not accurately known.) 

Catholic 8 10 000 

The Question. — It may now be asked where and on what terms can land be obtained in 
.Oregon. In the western portion of the State, that is in the Rogue river, Umpqua, and Wil- 
lamette valleys, the best laud is occupied. Farms can be had, however, in these valleys for 
from $5 to $10 per acre, according to location. There is ample room, and settlement is invited. 
As good agricultural land as there is in the world can be bought for $S per acre in any of 
these districts. 

The land in eastern Oregon is, for the most part, vacant. Homes may be obtained by 
simply occupying them under the provisions of the homestead law, which will take efiecton 
the 1st day of January, 1863, or by the provisions of the pre-eiription law. These lands are 
not yet surveyed, but no difficulty need he apprehended on this account. The immigrant 
has nothing to do but to comply with the conditions under which he takes, and his title will be 
secure to a home for his family which even the rapacity of pitiless creditors cannot wrest from 
them, and which in return for moderate industry will enable him always to have enough and 
to spare of the good things of this world. 



SECTION III. 

MINERAL RESOURCES. 

The mineral resources of Oregon, tliougli not so tliorougUy prospected as 
those of adjacent States and Territories, are both extensive and valuable, and 
will no doubt at some future time form a prominent source of wealth. 

Placer mining has been carried on extensively and profitably in the soutliern 
counties since 1852, and the mines of John Da}^ and Powder river have yielded 
several millions of dollars since their discovery in 1860. The annual product 
of these mines, until within the last two years, has been from $1,500,000 to 
$2,000,000. In common with the surface deposits of elsewhere, there is a gradual 
diminution as the placers become exhausted. New discoveries, however, are 
being continually made. 

Willow Creek Mines. — A writer in the Oregonian thus describes the mines 
in the Willow creek country, a region which has attracted considerable attention 
of late : 

Willow creek is a branch of the Malheur, having its source near the head of John Day's 
river, and, flowing near 100 miles in an easterly direction, discharges its waters into the 
Malheur about 15 miles above its junction with Snake river. Although a long stream, 
Willow creek, owing to the nature of the country through which it flows, much of it being 
a low mountain or hill country, destitute of timber, receives but few tributaries, and those 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 591 

few of small size. It is but a small stream in proportion to its length, and its snn'oundings 
are gloomy enoug^li and differ but little from those of the Malheur, Owyhee, and other trib- 
iitaries, on the south side of Snake river, between Farewell Bend and old Fort Hall. 

The mines on the tributaries of Willow creek were, I believe, first discovered in 1862, at 
what is known as Mormon or Humboldt basin, nearly at the same time, by one party from 
Salt lake and another from the Humboldt mining region in Nevada. This is a small but 
rich camp, and only lacks plenty of water to render it one of the richest in the upper coun- 
tvy. But water it can never have from any outside source, as the basin is higher than the 
source of any of the streams around it, so that the miners in that locality will have to be 
content with the scanty supply they now have for three or four months in the year. 

But what are known as the Willow creek mines are situated on the south slope of the 
divide, between the waters of Willow creek and Burnt river, and are now divided into 
Shasta, Easton, and Willow Creek districts. 

Shasta district comprises Shasta creek, Rich creek, Cottonwood creek. Quartz gulch, and 
many others. Mining has been carried on to some extent on Shasta creek for several years, 
but it was not until last summer that the district was prospected to any extent, or assumed 
any importance as a mining camp, or became known as such outside of its immediate 
vicinity. Since then greatly exaggerated reports have gained circulation in Idaho, Oregon, 
California, «&c.. as to the richness and extent of the mines. In most of the creeks and 
gulches in Shasta district good prospects have been obtained of rather coarse gold, mostly 
on the bed rock, which is usually of slate, and generally from 10 to 25 feet below the surface. 
Shasta, like most of mining districts, contains an embryo town which rejoices in the name 
of El Dorado City, indifferently supplied with everything but whiskey. 

Easton district was organized last summer, and is situate east of and joining Shasta dis- 
trict. It contains a large number of gulches, some of which were worked during last sum- 
mer, paying very well. Good prospects have been obtained in many others, and if Avater 
were plenty it would be a lively camp next season, and continue so for two or three years. 
In these districts the gold is finer than in Shasta district, and the bed rock (if rock it can be 
called) is a kind of cement of clay and gravel. 

Willow Creek district has recently organized, and comprises the lower part of Mormon 
Basin creek and a number of gulches east of it, but gold in paying quantities has only been 
found in one of them. This district is immediately east of Easton district, and the mines 
are of the same character. These districts are all on the north side of Willow creek, and 
are comprised in a space of about 12 miles in length and but little over one in width. 

Water is very scarce in all the mines in this vicinity. During the spring the melting 
snow furnishes a good many gulches Avith water for two or three months. After that is 
gone, all the natural water in Shasta district would not amount to more than one sluice head 
in Easton district, including the Avater in Mormon basin creek, about two, in Willow Creek 
district about one. And in speaking of creeks in those districts the reader must bear in 
mind that all the gulches in which water flows during summer (no matter how small the 
quantity) is called a creek. Most of the gulches are dry during the fall and winter, and a 
prospector frequently has to carry dirt one-half mile or more to find water to wash it. 
Another great inconvenience here is the scarcity of timber, it being on the mountains and 
in canons remote from the mines. Lumber for mining and building purposes has to bo 
hauled from 8 to 16 miles, and fire-wood from two to five miles, the former costing about fp70 
per 1,000 feet, and the latter from $12 to $14 per cord. 

The climate here is similar to that of the Grande Ronde and Powder River valleys, the 
amount of snow falling being much less than in the mining regions of Idaho. Yet the 
winters are very cold. The past two weeks have been about as cold as any weather I ever 
saw during several years' residence in the mountains. The snow is now about 10 inches 
deep in the mines, and perhaps two feet deep on the divide between Willow creek and Burnt 
river. 

There is much good agricultural land along Willow creek. Burnt river, and other streams 
in this vicinity, upon which abundant supplies could be raised for all this part of Oregon, 
unless the crickets, which seem to be one of the natural productions of the country, should 
claim too large a percentage of the crop. 

Several different ditches have be(;n talked of for bringing water from Willow creek and 
Burnt river for mining purposes, which Avould supply Shasta district and subsequently dis- 
tricts cast of that, only one of which has bfeen prosecuted to any extent ; that being the 
ditch of Carter, Packwood & Company, Avhich Is one of large extent, and will, when com- 
pleted, supply a large extent of mining ground with Avater and give employment to many 
men. But unfortunately there is little probability of its completion in time to do any good 
next summer ; so that many owning claims Avill have to Avait another year before they can 
Avork them to any extent, as the mines are of such a nature that they can only be Avorkod 
by the hydraulic or ground sluice, Avhich requires a large amount of Avater. 

There is a large extent of unprospected country in this past of Oregon, in much of Avhich 

it is probable gold may be found. Were the facilities better for Avorkiug the mines, this 

Avould soon be a populous portion of the State, but much of the country is destitute of timber 

and Avater. 

There is but little to induce men to come here at present, but if any do come from Oregon 



592 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

anci California, they had best not come before the first of May, as before that time the weather 
will be stormy and unsettled, and they will find it rough camping out in a country where 
even sage brush for fuel is not very plenty. 

There are a few stores in the country, at Clark's creek, Mormon Basin, and other camps, 
but they are poorly furnished with mining tools, clothing, groceries, and in fact everything 
but whiskey, and other beverages of like nature, which are supposed to be necessary in a 
country where water is not very plenty. Our nearest post ofSce is at Express, nearly 20 
miles. We get our mail matter from there or from Auburn, which is upwards of 35 miles 
distant. A mail route which would accommodate Clark's Creek, Mormon Basin, and the 
Willow mines is very necessary, and should receive the attention of our postal authorities. 

Quartz Lodes. — Numerous gold-bearing quartz lodes have been discovered 
in various parts of tlie State, but none of tlieni liave been developed to any- 
great extent. East of Eugene City, near the McKenzie river, (north branch 
of the Willamette,) some excellent lodes have been prospected, one of which 
extends north to Santiam and south across the head branches of the middle fork 
of the Willamette, Coast Forh, North and South Umpqua, &c. The Blue 
mountains, in the vicinity of Canon City, John Day's river, abound in quartz 
which the miners think will pay, but as there are placer urines in the vicinity, 
and a lack of capital to erect the necessary mills, they have not j-et been worked 
to any considerable extent. A writer in one of the Oregon papers says : 

The discoveries made in Auburn district, near the western line of Baker county, are 
known to be rich, but, as is usual, the discoverers are poor and unable to purchase and erect 
suitable mills for reducing their rock, and, therefore, must be content with simply working 
out the assessments required by law to hold them. In fact, in no less than five districts in the 
county, quartz is known to exist in paying quantities, but will not be worked, perhaps, for 
years to come — until labor is cheaper and the cost of machinery is correspondingly cheaper, 
and the placer mines are more thoroughly worked. The fact is that wherever placer mines 
will daily exhibit to the laborer the fruits of his toil, at but little outlay, he is hard to bo 
persuaded to invest time and labor and capital in the business of quartz crushing. 

Outside of our county, too, there are known to be rich quartz mines, occupying about the 
same practical position that ours does. The quartz of Elk creek, Granite creek, and Canon 
City, in Grant county, together with tnose of Eagle creek, m Union county, are destined to 
attract attention before long. 

The Ieox Interest. — By far the most important mineral resoiu'pe yet dis- 
covered in Oregon is the vast deposit of iron known to exist between the Willa- 
mette river above Portland and the Columbia, at St. Helen. Of the entire 
extent of this valuable deposit there is as yet but little knowledge, but it has 
been traced for a distance of at least 25 miles, and is beyond doubt inexhaustible. 
A description of the geological formation in which this iron is found, Avith some 
observations on the character of the ore, cost of manufacture, &c., and of iron 
ores generally on the Pacific coast, will be found in the article on miscellaneous 
mineral resources.* The following detailed description of the iron works at 
Oswego is from the Oregonian, a newspaper published at Portland : 

It is cause for sincere rejoicing that the efforts of the enterprising company which has under- 
taken the development of this most important resource of our State are now almost sure to 
be rewarded with complete success. It would be difiicult to name an interest on this coast 
which may affect the general prosperity more directly and permanently than the successful 
working of our iron mines. It is not so much that the proprietors may make money out of 
them, but it is that some of the chief courses of trade and manufactures will be turned in 
entirely new channels. These works, if present prospects are hereafter realized, Avill be able 
to supply the greater part of the demand of the whole coast for raw iron. This alone is a 
vast interest ; but when we take into consideration that iron-rolling mills and manufacturing 
establishments of various kinds will surely follow the success of this pioneer effort, the interest 
which the whole country has in it is immense — entirely beyond the possibility of present 
conception. In view of this, we shall certainly not be censured if we devote to the various 
matters connected with these works the greater part of our column to-day. 

Organization of the Company. — The "Oregon Iron Company" was incorporated by 
signing and filing articles in the offices of the county clerk of this county, and of the secro- 
taty of State, on the 24th day of February, 1S65. The incorporators were H. D. Green, W. 
S. Ladd, and John Green. The capital stock was fixed at $500,000. The stock was soon 
taken, the number of stockholders being 20, including many of our most sagacious and 

* Notes on the coal and other miscellaneous mineral productions of Oregon will be found 
in the same article. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 593 

energfetic business men. On the 13th of May following', the stockholders held their first 
meeting, and organized under the provisions of the statute by electing a board of directors, 
consisting of W. S. Ladd, H. C. Leonard, John Green, T. A. Davis, P. C. Schuyler, H. D. 
Green, and Henry Failing. At a subsequent meeting of the direct^es, W. S. Ladd was 
chosen president ; H. C. Leonard, vice-president, and H. D. Green, secretary. Mr. P. C. 
Schuyler is at present acting secretary. 

Cost of the Works. — Thus far the sum of all the assessments levied on the stock is 
only 27 per cent., all of which has been paid in with the exception ol $11,000, delmquent 
by three of the stockholders. The expenditures for building, opening the mines, construct- 
ing machinery, and stocking with material, Avas, up to the 1st of August, between $124,000 
and $125,000. Since that date there have been, of course, some further expenditures, which 
can, at present, only be estimated ; but the total amount is probably within $126,'000. 

Magnitude of the Works. — The company having prospected the mine, which is about 
two and half miles from the present village of Oswego, and having had the ore thoroughly 
tested, began excavating for the walls of the furnace and tower, on the 21st of May, 1865. Since 
then tire work of building and opening the mine has been carried on without more than tempo- 
rary suspensions till the present day. The works are run by water, taken from Oswego lake. 
The dam across the creek, just below the foot of the lake, is 148 feet in length, and 22 feet in 
height, and is a structure of great strength. The flume by which water is conveyed to the 
works is 900 feet long and 3 feet square. Tlie machinery in the blast-house is driven by 
one of Left'el's double-turbine water-wheels, which also works a force pump for supplying 
the tanks with water. The blast-house (where the wind is made) is 38 feet square and 
20 feet high. The casting-house is 136 feet long, 58 feet wide, and is a 12-feet story. The 
stack frame is 34 feet square, and 32 feet high. The top-house is 34 feet square, and 20 feet 
high. The stack and chimney together are 65 feet in height. The bridge-house is a 12-feet 
story, 129 feet long, and 25 feet wide; 'one end resting on the ground on the hill-side, the 
other supported on heavy truss-work, and connecting with the stack. The first coal-house 
connecting with the bridge-house is a 12-feet story, 148 feet long, and 38 feet wide. The 
second coal-house, standing a little apart from the other, is a 24-feet story, 100 feet long, and 
40 feet wide. The water tank is 12 feet square, and 8 ieet deep. These are the buildings 
which constitute the works proper ; but the company has one or two other buildings in the 
village, one of Avhich is a storehouse, 50 by 37 feet, and a story and a half high. The stack 
within, which is the furnace, is a massive pile of masonry, 32 feet square at the base, and 34 
feet high. There is probably not a finer or stronger piece of masonry on this coast than this 
stack. The capacity of the furnace is about 800 bushels. The buildings are supplied or to 
be supplied everywhere with water-pipes, to be used both in the ordinary daily operations 
and in case of fire. Everything about the entire works is constructed for strength and dura- 
tion. In this respect the company has Avisely thought that the additional cost of heavy, 
strong, and finished work, above that of mere make-shift, cannot fail to be returned in the 
duration of the works. The machinery in the blast-house is massive, and finely finished. 
The blast of air is obtained by the use of two large air pumps, whose pistons attach to the 
ends of a huge walking-beam. The air is forced through a regulator, which serves to keep 
the current constant. In the regulator, as the machinery was driven yesterday, the pressure 
of air was five-eighths of a pound to the square inch. From the regulator the air is forced 
through a long pipe to the top of the stack, when it goes through several large cast tubes, so 
placed as to be all the time red-hot. This is for the purpose of heating the air before it strikes 
the fire and mass of ore at the bottom of the furnace. From these heating tubes the air then 
goes through large tubes, concealed in the masonry, to the bottom of the furnace, where it is dis- 
charged with great force into the interior of the furnace. The effect upon the burning mass 
of coal, ore, and lime is something too fierce for description. To prevent the end of the air- 
pipe from being consumed by the intense heat, it is inserted in a massive piece of casting, 
called a tuicr, and which is subjected to a constant stream of cold water. 

Making Iron. — The first casting of iron into pigs was made on Saturday, August 24. The 
manner of doing it is something as follows : Of course the furnace has had fire in it for some time, 
and was hot when the work began. The workmen first put in at the top 26 bushels of coal, then 
800 pounds of ore, adding to this mass about 20 per cent, of limestone. This proportion is 
observed till the furnace is full. The limestone and ore are broken under the hammer, before 
being put in the furnace. The use of the lime is to amalgamate with itself all the dross and 
impurities of the ore, released in the process of smelting. This dross is constantly drawn off 
from the furnace at the hearth, and when cooled is thrown away. The company propose to 
use it for grading their roads and grounds. When the reservoir at the bottom gets full, the 
hearth is tapped, the molten iron runs off in a sparkling white stream, down a channel to 
the pit, where it falls, first, into a gutter called the sov.', and from this into smaller and shorter 
gutters, where the iron is shaped into pigs. Yesterday the hearth was tapped twice, the 
result being about six tons of pig iron. It is expected that when the furnace gets formed 
and thoroughly heated, the company will be able to cast three times at least in 24 hours, 
making between three and four tons at each casting. The ore now used yields about 55 per 
cent, of iron, which would be considered anywhere in the world very rich. The coal costs 
about six cents per bushel. Lime costs $(> per ton. The ore is estimated to cost about $1 75 
per ton. The company is now employing 80 men as miners, coal burners and heavers, 
38 



594 



RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



teamsters and artisans, at tlie works. The coal-bouses now have in them about 80,000 
bushels of coal, and it is coming in at the rate of about 2,500 bushels per day. The iron thus 
far cast is pronounced by Mr. Harris, the superintendent of the works, and by other com- 
petent judges, to be equal in quality to any made in the United States. It is very soft and very 
line in grain, and it is said, might be v/orked into castings for machinery as run off from the 
furnace. 

To conclude this article we will mention that of the first casting, Mr. J. C. Trullingcr, the 
proprietor of the town site, has secured two pigs, which he will have engraved with his own 
initials, the date of casting and the trade stamp of the company, and then planted as street 
monuments at the corners of blocks Nos. 1 and 2, at the junctions of Furnace, Ladd and 
Durham streets. 



Table of distances. 



FROM PORTLAND TO DALLES CITY. 

Miles. 

Vancouver (by steamer) 18 

Lower Cascades 45 G3 

Upper Cascades (by railroad) 6 Gt) 

Dalles City (by steamer) 45 114 

FROM DALLES CITY TO LEWISTON. 



15 




G 


21 


10 


31 


3 


34 


3 


37 


4 


41 


8 


49 


6 


55 


9 


64 


fi 


72 


2 


74 


4 


78 



Celilo (by railroad) 

Columbus (by steamer) 

John Day's river 

Indian Rapids 

Squally Hook 

Rock Creek 

Chapman's wood-yard 

Big Bend 

Willow Creek 

Castle Rock 

Canoe Encampment 

Foot of Long Island 

Head of Long Island 

Grande Eonde Lauding 

Umatilla City 

Head of Umatilla Rapids 

Wind Mill Rock 

Wallula 

Mouth of Snake river 

First Rapids, Snake river 

Fish Hook Rapid 

Lower End of Canon 

Upper End of Canon 

Jim Fort Island 

Pine Tree Rapids 

Palouse Crossing 

Fort Taylor, at Tukannon 

Taksas Rapids 

Pa-na-wa Creek and Indian Farm. 

Almota 

Indian Wood Yard 

El-pa-wa Creek 

Jackson & Buckley Ferry 

Lewiston 



FROM DALLES CITY TO UMATILLA CITY. 
15 



5 90 

7 97 

G 103 

3 lOG 

15 ]21 

1] 132 

G 138 

]0 148 

2 J50 

2 152 

G 158 

7 1G5 



30 


195 


5 


200 


G 


206 


25 


231 


14 


245 


21 


266 


5 


271 


3 


274 


7 


281 



Celilo (by railroad) 

Des Chutes (by land) 1 

Spanish Hollow 9 

John Day's ]5 

Willow Creek 23 

Well Spring 14 

Ewiug's 18 

Umatilla City 16 

FROM UMATILLA TO IDAHO CITY. 

Franklin House 12 

Swift's 26 38 

Willow Springs 12 50 



]6 

25 
40 
63 
77 
95 
111 



Meacham's or Lee's Encampment 

Station 

La Grande 

Union 

Pyles 

Kentucky House 

Stark's 

Austin 

Mountain View House 

Carter's 

Valley House 

Ward's, or Slough House 

Henkler's Ranch 

Baldock's 

Mud Springs 

Illinois Ranch 

Straw Ranch, or II. Huffman's. . 

New York House 

California Ranch 

Express Ranch ♦. 

Central 

Wilson's 

Hawkins 

Scott's 

Whiteside's 

Miller's 

Marshall's 

Old's Ferry, or Snake River 

Snake River Bend 

Monroe Rouse, or Weizer's 

Jasper & Beard's Station. .... 

Snake River Slough 

Forty-Nine Ranch 

Fayette River and Bluff Station.. 

Junction House 

Thompson's 

Payette Ranch 

Block House 

Payette Junction 

Bernal's 

Horse Shoe Bend 

Shafer's 

Ilerzog &. Company 

Allen's 

Placerville 

Centreville 

Idaho City 

FROM UMATILLA CITY TO INDEPENDENCE. 

Franklin House 12 

Alkali Hollow 12 24 

Forks of Birch Creek 10 34 

Beard's Saw Mill 12 46 

DealyRanch 18 64 

Horse Ranch 12 76 

Day's Flat on Granite Creek 22 98 

Independence 6 104 



Miles. 
14 64 
13 77 
12 85 

16 101 

5 106 
H 107i 

5 112i 
4 116A 
2 118J 

6 124^ 

1 125^ 
3i 129 
3.i 132^ 
6 138^ 
6 144^ 
5^ 150 
4 154 

4 158 
31 16U 

I 1G2 

2 164 

5 169 

4 173 

5 178 
G 184 
1 185 
5 190 

1 191 
8 199 
8 207 
4 211 

2 213 

10 223 
4 227 

3 230 

4 234 
8 242 

5 247 
2 249 

11 260 
8 268 
4 272 

4 276 
10 286 

2 288 

5 293 
8 301 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



595 



Table of distances — Continued. 



FROM INDEPENDENCE TO CANON CITY (BY 
TRAIL.) 

Mies. 

Little Salmon 20 

Vincent's Gulch 18 38 

Canon City 22 60 

FROM INDEPENDENCE TO AUBURN. 

Head of Powder River 20 

Bear Gulch 5 25 

Auburn ]5 40 

FROM WALLA-WALLA TO IDAHO CITY. 

Walla-Walla River 13 

Liukton's Mill 9 22 

Mountain House 12 34 

Phillips' 13 47 

Willow Creek 11 58 

Henclershott's 16 74 

Union 6 80 

Idaho City 200 280 

FROM IDAHO CITY TO COISE CITY. 

Warm Springs 2 

Minnehaha Ranch 10 12 

Fourteen-mile House 2 14 

Sampson's, or Twelve-mile House. 8 22 

Boise City 12 34 

FROM UMATILLA CITY TO BOISE CITY. 

Payette Junction 249 

BoiseCity 30 279 

FROM WALLA-WALLA TO BOISE CITY. 

(As measured with a roadometer) 265 

FROM IDAHO CITY TO ROCKY BAR (BY 
TRAIL.) 

Meadow Creek Ranch 14 

North Boise Bridge and Toll House 4 18 

Middle Boise Ranch 6 24 

Brady's Ranch II 35 

Rocky Bar 13 48 

FROM BOISE CITY TO RUBY AND SILVER 
CITIES. 

Seventeen-mile Station 17 

Slough 15 32 

Snake River 1 33 

Carson's Ranch 15 48 

Honey Lake Smith's 6 54 

Boonville 8 62 

Ruby City 2 64 

Silver City ^2- G4f 

FROM BOISE CITY TO VOLCANO. 

Boise River 7 

Fifteen-mile House 8 15 

Squaw Creek 15 30 i 



Syrup Creek. 11 

Little Camas Prairie 16 

Franklin 3 

Volcano 10 



3Iiles. 
41 
57 
60 
70 



FROM BOISE CITY TO ROCKY BAR. 

Little Camas Prairie 57 

Wood Creek 8 65 

Lime Creek 2 67 

Warm Springs 10 77 

Cowhide Ranch 5 82 

Toll Gate U 83i 

MilkRanch 4" 85^ 

Rocky Bar 14 99| 

FROM BOISE CITY TO RED BLUFF, VIA BOON- 
VILLE, GIBB'S CREEK, AND SUSANVILLE, 
IN HONEY LAKE. 

Seventeen-mile Station 17 

Slough 15 32 

Snake River 1 33 

Carson's Ranch 15 48 

Honey Lake Smith's 6 54 

Boonville 8 62 

Jordan's Ranch 18 80 

Muskrat Lakes 16 96 

Child'sFerry 17 113 

Gibb's Creek, or forks of road ... 8 121 

Head of Gibb's Creek 14 135 

Mountain Creek 16 151 

Trout Creek 17 168 

Puebla Mountain 10 177 

Hot Springs 6 184 

Alder Creek 8 192 

Summit Lake 12 104 

Three Lakes 12 216 

Caiion Creek 9 225 

Surprise Valley 13 238 

FurCreek 14 252 

Swift Creek 15 267 

Rapid Creek 4 271 

Susanville, in Honey Lake 6 277 

Red Bluff 99 376 

Susanville to Chico 95 372 

BOISE CITY TO STARR CITY, VIA BOONVILLE, 

Seventeen-mile Station 17 

Slough 15 32 

SnakeRiver 1 33 

Carson's Ranch 15 48 

Honey Lake Smith's 6 54 

Boonville 8 62 

Jordan's Ranch 18 80 

Muskrat Lakes 16 96 

Child'sFerry 17 113 

Gibb's Creek 8 121 

Well Spring 12 133 

Mouth of Canon 10 143 

Summit Spring-. .. - 20 163 

East Fork of Queen's River 8 171 

Paradise Valley GO 231 

Cherokee 12 243 

Starr City 26 269 



596 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



Table of distances — Continued. 



FROM WALLA-WALLA TO FiSHERVILLE, 
KOOTANIE COUNTRY, BRITISH COLUM- 
BIA. 

Miles. 

Touchet 15 

Spring 11 26 

Palouse, on Snake river 20 4G 

Forks of the Palouse 15 61 

Cow Creek 12 73 

Camp 12 85 

Cottonwood Springs 8 93 

Dragoon Encampment 18 111 

Pine Timber 8 119 

Rock Creek 12 131 

Lake to the right of road 13 144 

Hangman Creek 10 154 

Antoine Plant Ferry, or Crossing of 

Spokane River 12 166 

Dutchman's 17 183 

Slough 18 201 

Pen d'Oreille Lake 9 210 

Head of Pen d'Oreille Lake 30 240 

PackRiver 9 249 

Stampede Lake, to the left of the 

road 18 267 

Kootanie Ferry 18 2£5 

Spring 10 295 

Eighteen Mile Creek 8 303 

Commission Creek, one mile to left 

ofroad 9 312 

Round Prairie 10 322 

Boundary line 7 329 

MoyaRiver 7 336 

Third Crossing of Moya River 10 346 

Log House 12 358 

Miner's Creek 18 376 

Peavine Prairie 12 388 

St. Joseph's Prairie 12 400 

Central Ferry 10 410 

Fisherville 7 417 

FROM NEW FERRY TO ROCK CREEK. 

Springs 15 

Kentuck's, on the first Mullen's road 9 24 

Six-mile Camp 6 30 

Springs 9 39 

Creek 10 49 

Timber Camp 9 58 

RockCreek 12 70 

FROM WALLA- WALLA TO ROCK CREEK. 

By trail, via New Ferry 121 

Tukannon to Rock Creek 72 

FR03I JOHN DAY'S TO POAVDER RIVER AND 
LA GRANDE. 



Scott's 9 

Harrison's on Willow creek 14 

Forks of Willow creek 6 

Forks of Butter creek 16 

Ayers 7 

Birch creek 20 

McWillis 17 



23 
29 
45 
52 
72 
89 



Burk's 16 

Dealy's Ranch 12 

Grande Ronde river, or forks ofroad 4 

Powder river 20 

Grande Rond river (road to left) to 
La Grande 20 



Miles. 
105 
117 
121 
141 

161 



FROM DALLES CITY TO CANON CITY, VIA 
NIXON'S BRIDGE. 

Nixon's bridge 16 

Hay Stack 27 43 

Cross Hollows, or forks of road.. 25 68 

ColdCamp 11 79 

Current Creek 10 89 

Muddy Creek 4 93 

Cherry Creek 6 99 

BridgeCreek 9 108 

Alkali Flat 10 118 

Foot of the mountain 9 127 

Mountain House 6 133 

Camp Watson (military post) 6^ 139i 

RockCreek 6i 146 

Cottonwood 15 161 

SouthFork 6 167 

Hagen's Ranch 15 182 

Veatch's Ranch 8 190 

Canon City, 10 200 

FROM DALLES CITY TO CANON CITY, VIA 
GILLAM'S. 



Gillam's 12 

Mcltee 17 

Bake Oven 19 

Ci'oss Hollows, or forks of road.. 10 

ColdCamp 11 

Current Creek 10 

Muddy Creek 4 

Cherry Creek 6 

BridgeCreek 9 

Alkali Flat 10 

Canon City 82 

FROM WALLA-WALLA TO LEWISTON 

Tusha Crossing 20 

Tukannon 22 

Pataha 12 

Alpowa 12 

Lewistou 17 



29 

48 

58 

69 

79 

■83 

89 

98 

108 

190 



42 
54 
66 

83 



FROM LEWISTON TO ELK CITY, FLORENCE, 
AND IDAHO CITY. 

Lewistou to Elk City 142 

Lewiston to Florence 1 20 

Lewistou to Idaho City 190 

From White Bluff to Colville 150 

From Wallula via Union to Idaho City, 
about 300 

From Dalles City to Frauklin House on 
the Idaho and Umatilla road 102 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 597 



ALASKA. 

Nearly all the information we possess toucliing the mineral resources of Alaska 
is comprised in the correspondence accompanying the President's message, Feb- 
ruary 17, 1S68, (Ex. Doc. No. 177, 40th Congress, 2d session,) and in the speech 
of tiic Hon. Charles Sumner on the cession of Russian America to the United 
States (pubUshed in the same document, pp. 124-189.) These valuable and inter- 
esting papers contain th"? researches of the most reliable authorities, and demon- 
strate bej^ond question that the newly-acquired territory abounds in the precious 
metals and useful minerals, though it must be admitted that our knowledge of 
the country and its resources is, as yet, chiefly confined to the sea-coast and the 
shores of the Aleutian islands. Of the vast continental interior we know compar- 
atively nothing ; in the language of JMr. Sumner, " perhaps no region of equal 
extent on the globe, unless we except the interior of Africa, or possibly Green- 
land, is as little known. Here," says Mr. Sumner, " I do not speak for myself 
alone ; a learned Gennan, whom I have already quoted, after saying that explo- 
rations have been limited to the coast, testifies that ' the interior, not only of the 
continent, but even of the island of Sitka, is to-day unexplored, and is in every 
respect terra incognita ;' the same has been repeated of the islands also." With- 
out data beyond what has abeady become familiar to the public, it would be use- 
less, therefore, to encumber this report Avith any speculations or conjectures 
respecting the mineral resources of a comparatively unexplored region. It is 
sufficient to say that Alaska is known to abound in gold, silver, copper, iron, 
and coal, and that it possesses many other valuable resoiu'ces, chief among which 
are its fisheries and forests. 

In this enlightened age it seems singular that an acquisition of such inesti- 
mable importance, in its political and commercial aspect, to the future of our 
country — especially to that portion of it lying on the Pacific slope — should meet 
with opposition on the part of any intelligent American. If the Territory of 
Alaska possessed no other element of value than its vast forests of pine, spruce, 
fir, hemlock, and other trees useful for lumber and ship-building, it would be 
worth more than ten times the sum stipulated to be paid for it under the treaty. 
A moment's consideration will show how important a question the supply of 
timber must become to the States and Territories of the Pacific within a compar- 
atively short time. The States of California, Nevada, and Oregon, and the 
Ten'itories of Arizona, Utah, Montana, Idaho, and Washington, have a united 
area of 903,019 square miles, with an estimated population of 780,000, or less 
than one inhabitant to the square mile. The area of timbered land within this 
vast range of country is almost confined to a naiTow strip along the coast north 
of San Francisco, and to a belt extending along the crests and slopes of the 
Sierra Nevada and Cascades, varying in width, and at scattered intervals, from 
15 to 40 or 50 miles. Reference to the maps will show that this timbered area 
is less than a twentieth pari of the entu'e smface of the country, and is diminish- 
ing perceptibly year after year. The consumption of lumber in California and 
Nevada, to say nothing of the exports, is without parallel in the history of new 
countries. Immense quantities of lumber, timber, and firewood are used in the 
building and supply of towns ; in mills, mines, flumes, and fences, and for all the 
requirements of a miscellaneous and progressive population. It is not to be 
supposed that, with increased facilities for immigration, the vast tracts of mineral 
and agricultm-al land, now sustaining less than one inhabitant to the square nfile, 
will long remain so sparsely settled. Within the next 10 years the population 
of our Pacific States and Tenitories will, in all probability, exceed 2,000,000. 
New towns will spring up at fr-equent intervals throughout this immense domain. 
Our scanty timber lands, already suffering fr-om fires and from reckless waste on 



598 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

the part of settlers, Avill he forced to pay tribute to the hicreasing* population. 
Estimatinc^ the consumption from the rate at which the forests of California have 
disappeared since 1849, it would not take many j^ears, Avith a largely enhanced 
population, to denude all the available timber districts, increase the price of lum- 
ber so a,s to retard the development of many lucrative branches of industry, and 
probably destroy the export trade in that article, which is now becoming so 
important an element in the growth of oiu' intercourse with China. 

The completion of the Central Pacific railroad will inaugurate a new era for 
the States and Territories west of the Rocky mountains. With population new 
sources of wealth will be opened, and raifroads will be established north and 
south, with branches penetrating the mountain passes and valleys in every direc- 
tion, to supply the wants of many growing and prosperous communities. 

If Mr. Secretary Seward had accomplished nothing more in the course of his 
ofKcial career than the acquisition of Alaska, he would for that act alone be 
entitled not only to the thanks of every citizen of the Pacific coast, already 
awarded him, but to the gratitude of millions yet unborn, by whom the bound- 
less domain of the west is destined to be jieopled. 

For the convenience of those who may desire to consult the principal authori- 
ties on the resources of Russian America, I have caused to be prepared a chrono- 
logical summarv, or bibliography in brief, of the publications on that region, 
from A. D. 1600 to 1SG7. ^ The author. Dr. Alexander S. Taylor, of Santa'Bar- 
bara, California, is a gentleman of great learning and research, whose labors for 
the preservation of all the known records of discovery and adventure on the 
Pacific coast cannot be too highly commended. 

Bibliograplaj of AlasJca. • 

1600. — Haklmjt Rich'd. Voyages, discoveries, navigatious, «&c., of the English nation. 
In two volumes, small folios ; Loudon, 1599-1600. Also another volume by the same author 
of voyages not included in the first work, and not published until Idll, at London, in one 
volume, quarto ; contains the earliest notices of the far northern voyages on the Pacific and 
Atlantic. 

160.,. —Original Documents on the Voyages and Services of Frida Andres de Urdanettti, 
pilot of Legaspis Manila expedition la 1565, collected by Martin Fernandez de Navarette, 
president ot the Royal Spanish Academy of History; in one volume, 8vo, in the set of five 
volumes; Madrid, about 1816. It was Urdanetta who first discovered the currents and 
winds above 40^, with which he sailed his ships from Manila till he made the north shores 
of California, and thence down the coasts to Mexico. 

1625. — The Pilgrims of Samuel Purchase, in three volumes, quarto ; London, 1625. Con- 
tains the voyage of Juan de Fuca, the Greek pilot, in 1592, for original documents pertain- 
ing to which, obtained from the island of Cephalonia, see the author's notes on de Fuca in 
Hutchings's California Magazine for 1859, also Greenhow's History. 

1640. — Histoire du Noveau Monde, by Jean de Laet. Folio ; Leyden, 1640. 

1682. — The Geography of the World, by Jean Bleu. Folio ; Amsterdam, 1662. 

1699. — De Originihus Americanis, by George Home. Folio ; Antwerp, 1699. 

1712. — Historical Researches respecting the Neio World, by Henric Scherer, professor in the 
University of lugoldstadt, Bavaria. In German, about 1712. 

171o.~ Recueil du Voyages au Nord, in nine volumes, 12mo; Amsterdam, 1715. 

1704-1750. — Voyage Collections: Churchill's Collection of Voyages, 6 vols., folio, 1704- 
1712; Harris's Collection of Voyages. 2 vols., folio, 1715-1720; Hawkesworth's Collection 
of Voyages, 5 vols., folio, 1735-1740; Osborne's Collection of Voyages, 2 vols., folio, 1746- 
1750 ; account of De Pontes apocryphal voyage through the Northwest Passage in ]640 in 
the London Monthly Miscellany of 1708 ; Voyages of Francisco Coreal, 1666-1697, from 
the Spanish, in 2 vols., 12mo, Paris, 1728. 

1722. — Potheries Historic Amerique Septentrionelle, in 4 vols., 12mo ; Paris, 1722. 
1729, — Origin de las Indios de cl Nuevo Mundo y Indies Occidentales, by Friar Greo-orio 
Garcia ; folio, Madrid, 1729. 

1753. — Nouvellcs Cartes de UAmiral Fontc et Autres J\'avigateurs Espagnoles, Analais, 
8fc., dans Ic mer Septentrional, by G. de Lisle ; quarto ; Paris, 1753. 

1757. — History of California, by the Jesuit Father Miguel Vanegas, 3 vols., ]2mo ; Slad- 
rid, 1757, and published shortly after in French, English, and German. Contains notations 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, 599 

up t,o 1752 on the far northwest coast and connections with China, with valuable maps of the 
north coasts, &c. 

1757. — Researches on the Voyages of the Chinese and Japanese to the American Coasts, by 
M. De Guignes ; vide Journal Academy of Inscriptions and Belles Lettres ; Paris, 1757'. 

1757. — Letrcs Edifiantcs ct Curievses, S;c., Sfc, of the Jesuit missionaries in all parts of 
the world, from 160U to 17G0, published in French, with translations in English, Spanish, 
German, Italian, &c., in some 30 vols., 12mo. Some of the volumes contain exceedingly 
interesting accounts of the first travels in the far northern parallels of Asia and America, 
and discoveries of the proximities of the old and the new continents to the north of California 
and of China. Jesuit writers lay claim to the first mention of this connection to the world 
of letters and science, and one of the volumes of the Letrcs Edifiantcs contains the celebrated 
narration of Father Greelon, v/ho was transferred to China before 1()60, and travelled exten- 
sively as a missionary among the Mauchoo and Mongolian populations of that empire. In 
one of his journeys in Chinese Tartary he fell in with an Indian woman of the Huron tribes, 
whom he had known when serving in the far west of Canada, and who confessed her sins to 
him as a priest of the Catholic church at this immense distance from her native country. 
This woman informed Greelon that she had been taken prisoner in an Indian fight, and had 
afterwards been transferred as a slave from tribe to tribe, until she had crossed in boats over 
a piece of water, which was salt, and again sold from one person to another until conveyed 
to the plains of Tartary. This fact is said by some to have first stimulated the attention of 
the Russian authorities, which resulted in the discovery of Behring Straits and Alaska. 
It was the redoubtable old sailor, Peter the Great, and after him his wife, the Empress 
Catherine, who set afloat the great discovery voyages of Vitus Behring and Alexander 
Tschirikotf in 172S-'29 and to 1741, which sailed from Kamschatka, and discovered the 
straits which separated Asia from America, and fully confirmed the speculations of the old 
Jesuit missionaries of Canada, Califoraia, and China. (See the curious map of the Pacific 
in the Spanish edition of Venega's California. See also on this curious subject of Asiatic 
and American ethnographic counections the celebrated work " Melanges Asiatigucs^' of A. 
Eemusat, and the notes of Kurz in the Nouvclle Journal Asiatique on Chinese history.) 

1774. — Discoveries of the Russians on the Northwest Coasts of America, &c., by Von Mul- 
ler; quarto, London, 1774. Contains the earliest Russian voyages to Pacific America. 

1774. — Account of the Northern Archipelago to the east of Kamtschatka , Sfc. Sfc, by J. 
Von Staehlin. 1 vol., 8vo, London, 1774. 

1778. — American Atlas, or description of the whole continent of America, in grand folio, 
by Thos. Jeffreys ; London, 1778. ' 

1780. — Discoveries of the Russians in the North Pacific, by Rev. Dr. Wm. Cox ; quarto, 
London, 1780. Contains the accounts of Behring's voyage of 1741, and other valuable 
histories. 

1780. — Journal and Proceedings of the Imperial Academy of St. Petersburg, from 1780 to 
present time ; many volumes. 

1781.— Historical and Geographical Miscellanies, by Hon. Daenis Barrington, 1 or 2 vols., 
8vo; London, 1781. Contains papers on extreme North Pacific coasts. 

1788. — The Apocryphal Voyage of Francisco Maldonada through the Northwest Passage, 
published in Madrid about 1795 by the Royal Academy of History, from MSS. discovered 
in the Ambrosian library of Milan. Also, Cevallo's Voyages of Maldonada, De Fuca, and 
Fonte, 1 vol., 8vo, Madrid, 1798. 

1789. — Voyage of Captains Portlock and Dixon to the Northwest Coasts of America, !fc., 
Sfc, in the King George and Queen Charlotte, in 1788-'89 ; quarto, London, 1789. 

178'). — Pissertation Geographico dc ]\ovo California, Sfc, by J. A. Hartman ; quarto, 
Marburg, 1789. 

17S9. — Relation of a recent Spa^iish voyage to the northwest coasts of America, ante 1789, 
by J. F. Bourgoing. 3 vols.,8vo, (French) 3d edition, Paris, 1803. 

1790. — Cook's Voyages. The three voyages of Captain James Cook between 1766 and 
177G, to the Pacific and northwest coasts. The only reliable editions, which are in several 
volumes, are those published under the directions of the Lords Commissioners of the Admi- 
ralty of England, printed at London at separate periods before 1792. 

1790. — The Voyages of Captain Billings to Behring Straits, Kamstchatka, S^c, Ifc, 1785- 
1790, in the Russian service, by Martin Sauer ; quarto, London, 1796. 

1790. — Voyages made in 1788-89 between China and Norlhvest America, by Captain John 
Mearres, R. N.; quarto, London, 1790. Captain Dixon's reply to the same, 1 vol., quarto, 
London, 1790. 

1121.— Journal of the Voyage of the Spanish Exploring Ships Atrevida and DiscuUerta, 
under Captain Alexander Malaspina, in 1791 ; preserved in MSS. in the viceroy's library in 
Mexico and in the Spanish hydrography at Madrid. Malaspina's charts were published in 
a quarto volume by the Spanish government about 1802, and credited to the voyage of the 



600 EESOURCES OP STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Sutil and Mejicana, and afterwards Lecame the established authorities in the Spanish marines 
for the north Pacific coast down to ]8o0. 

1702. — The Viceroy^ s Archives of Mexican History, collected and arranged under orders 
from Viceroy Revilla Gigedo by Father Francisco Garcia Figueroa, and arranged in 32 or 
more folio volumes, and nov/ in the old viceroy's library in Mexico City. Perfect copies of 
this valuable collection are stated to have been also sent to Madrid before 1800. It contains 
invaluable material, collated by Cassasola and Bonilla, on the Spanish discovery voyages to 
that portion of ancient Alta California between the latitudes 55° and 61°, as claimed by 
Spain, which afterwards became the domain of Russian America, and now forms a portion 
of the United States Territory of Alaska. See also contribution of Secretary Seward, in 
1865, on Spanish northwest voyages, contained in the Bibliografa Californica of the author. 

1793. — Voyages and Travels in Asiatic Russia and in the North Pacific, compiled by Pro- 
fessor Pierre Simon Pallas ; 4 or 5 vols., quarto, Paris, 1789-'i)3. There are also English edi- 
tions of the works of Pallas, wlio was a celebrated German professor in Russia under the 
patronage of the Empress Catharine II. This appears to be the same work edited or com- 
pleted by Theodor K. de Mirievoy, and which contains such valuable material on the philol- 
ogy of Europe and Asia. Pallas also wrote extensively on the natural history of Russian 
America in German. Pallas was one of the greatest naturalists of his day, and his writings 
covered a multitude of subjects. liis notations on the locust and grasshopper ravages iu 
the Crimea, noticed by the learned Russian entomologist, Motscbulsky, and also by the 
author of this bibliography in the Smithsonian report for 18.J9, are of great value in science. 

1793. — Voyages and Travels to the Coppermine River and the Countries tcest of Canada in 
1789-'93, by Alexander Mackenzie; in 8vo and quarto, London, 1801 and 1802. The work 
of Samuel Heame, describing his voyage of 1770-1772 in some of the countries visited by 
Mackenzie, and for the discovery of copper mines, was published iu London in quarto in 
1795. 

1799. — Voyage round the World, by Captain Jean Francois G. de La Perouso ; edited by 
M. Millet Muriau. Government edition in French, 4 vols., quarto, 1797, maps and illustra- 
tions ; also English and German editions. 

1799. — Voyage to the Northwest Coasts of America and Round the World, 1790 to 1792, ia 
the French sliip Solide, by Captain Etiene Marchand, preceded by an historical introduction 
of discoveries, &c., on the northwest coasts of America, by Claret Fleurell, (in French,) in 
4 vols., quarto, Paris, 1799. 

1801. — Voyage of Discovery and Exploration on the Northwest Coasts of America in 1790 
to 1795, ^'c, Sfc, by Captain George Vanccnivcr, R. N.; plates and maps ; published by the 
government in 5 or 6 vols., quarto, London, 1801. Lieutenant Broughton, an ofEcer ot one 
of Vancouver's vessels, also published an account of the voyage in quarto form at London, 
iu 1804. 

1802. — Voyage of the Sutil and Mexicana, exploring vessels, under Captains Dionisio Gal- 
iano and Cayatano Valde2, of the Spanish navy, in 1792, to the northwest coasts ; published 
by order of the King of Spam, in 1 vol., 8vo, iu 1802, with map. The Memorias sobre las 
Observaciones Astronomicas que ban servido de fuudamentos a las Cartas de la Costa Nor- 
weste de America, written about 1810 by Admiral Espinosa, of the Spanish navy, and pub- 
lished by the Hydrographic office of Bladrid, is spoken of by Humboldt as a work of value. 

1805. — Catalogo de las lenguas Conocidas, y numeracion, division y clases de estas, segun la 
diversidad de sus idiomas ydialcctos, by Father Lorenzo Hervas, soc. Jesuits, ,in six vols., 
quarto, of nearly 400 pages each. Published at Madrid 1800 to 1805 ; also iu octavo. 

1806. — 7/(6 " Mithradatcs oder Atlg7iicinc Sprachinktinde mil dem Vater uls Sprachbone,'' 
&c.,a famous authority in the philosophy of languages, was commenced by John Christo- 
pher Adelung, of Berlin, iu 18U6, and concluded by John Severau Vater, in 1817, in five 
vols.,8vo, at Berlin. Another work was published by Frederick Adelung, in 1815, at St. 
Petersburg, in quarto, entitled "Catherinas dor Grossen Verdieuste," &c., &c. The Mith- 
radates contains valuable matter on the Indian languages of the far north Pacific coasts. 

1811. — Works of Alexander Humboldt. A critical examination of the history, navigation, 
and geography of the New World and the progress of nautical astronomy in the 15th and 
16th centuries ; iu French, 5 vols., 8vo, Paris, l836-'39. Also, Researches concerning the 
Institutions and Monuments of the Ancient Inhabitants of North America, with descriptions 
and scenes in the Cordilleras, plates, maps, and plans; in 2 vols., ibiio, Paris, 1810; Lon- 
don edition, 2 vols., 8vo, 1814. Also, Essay on the Kingdom of New Spain, in 2 vols., 
folio, Paris, 1808-1811, plates, maps, and plans ; Loudon edition in 4 vols., 8vo, 1811 ; also 
a New York edition in 2 vols., 8vo, 1811. All these works contain valuable notations on the 
Alaskan countries. 

1812. — Puteschesticil W. America, by Chvostov I. Davidoff. 2 vols., 8vo, St. Petersburg, 
1812. 

1814. — Voijage Round the World in the Russian ships Neva and Nadedsda, in 1803-1806, 
commanded by Adam John Von Kruesenstern, (afterwards admiral in the imi^erial navy.) 
English edition, in quarto, London, 1814, with maps, plates, &c. Also, Berlin edition. The 



WEST OF THE RQCKY MOUNTAINS. 601 

other works pTiblished on this voyage by Kruesenstern's oiBccrs are Dr. Langsdorff "s .work, 
in 2 vols., quarto, London, 1816, and Captain Wrey Lisiansky's, in 1 vol., quarto, London, 
1314. They were also all published in different forms in the Enssian language and in 
French. Admiral Kruesensteru also wrote a work of 78 pages on the Indian languages ot" 
Alaska, for the St. Petersburg Academy, in 1813. He was also the most thoroughly instructed 
seaman in the world on the hydrography of the Pacific, and compiled those charts of the 
great ocean which are the models of all others, all of which, with his nautical notes and 
memoirs accompanying these, have made him celebrated among the savans of America and 
Europe. Before his death, about 1850, he had tilled many posts of the highest honor in the 
imperial service, and was a man of the most estimable personal character. 

1817. — Collection of Voyages in the South Seas and the North Pacific, from 1527 to 1800. 
By Admiral James Burney, R. N. In 6 vols., quarto, London, 1814-1817; with plates, 
charts, &c. This valuable worlc contains very little on voyages after 1770. 

1817. — The Avierican Coast Pilot, S^'c. By Edmund Blunt, of New York. The editions 
of this well-known work subsequent to 1&5G contain valuable notices of the hydrography 
of Russian America and the northwest coasts. The same may bo said of "The American 
Navigator," by N. A. Bowditch ; but th editions of both works prior to 1850 are very 
meagre on the coasts mentioned. 

1818-34. — Voyage to California and the North Pacific Coasts, in the French trading ship 
Bordelais. By Captain Camile Eocquefeul. 2 vols., 8vo, Paris, 1823. Voyage Round the 
World in the French trading ship Heros, in 1826-1829. By Captain Duhaut Cilley. In 2 
vols., 8vo, Paris, 1834. Both these works relate to California and the coasts further north, 
and contain much interesting matter on the fur trade of the epoch ante 1830. 

1823. — Voyage of Discoverti to the Pacific Ocean and Behring^s Straits, California, Sfc, in 
the Russian ship Ruric, in 1815-1818. By Captain Otto Von Kotzebue, (afterwards admiral 
in the imperial navy. ) In 3 vols. , 8vo, London, 1 823. Editions also in German and lA-ench. 
Chamisso was the surgeon and naturalist of the Ruric, and for many years after made val- 
uable contributions to the learned societies of Russia, Germany, and France, on the fauna 
and flora of the coi;ntries visited, particularly of Alaska. Kotzebue also made another voyage 
to Russian America, the central Pacific islands, and California, in 1823 to 1826, in the Rus- 
sian ship Enterprise, or Predpriate, an account of which was published in English at London 
in 1830, in 2 vols., 8vo. In this voyage Eschscholz went as naturalist, and after his arrival 
in Russia contributed valuable material on the fauna and flora of Alaska, California, &c., 
in different German, Russian, and Fronch journals of learning and science, which are highly 
esteemed. Choris, the artist of Kotzebue's voyage, Avho was afterwards killed in Mexico, 
also published an illu.strated work on the voyage, entitled "Voyage Pittoresque." These 
two voyages of Kotzebue are often confounded as one, and the names of Chamisso and 
Eschscholz, which Kotzebue attached to certain localities in Alaska, are sometimes mistaken 
for Indian or Spanish terms, and both as members of one expedition. Admiral Kotzebue 
served in the Crimean war, and was highly esteemed by his government, and a hydro- 
graphic author of eminence. He died, Ave believe, in 1858. 

1824. — Voyage to Russian America S;c., by M. Chromtschenko ; vide St. Petersburg 
Archives of HistorJ^ &c., &c., for 1824; also in German in the periodical Hertha, for 1824. 
Chromtschenko and Etoline made surveys of the Alaskan coasts, which were reduced to 
charts and maps. 

1831. — Voyage of the ship Blossom to the North Pacific and Behring^s Straits in 1825 to 
1828, to co-operate with the Arctic Expeditions from the Atlantic. By Captain F. W. l^eechey, 
R. N., (afterwards admiral.) Published under orders of the British Admiralty. In 1 vol. 
quarto, also in 2 vols., 8vo, London, 1831 ; both with plates, maps, &c. A quarto volume 
on the natirral history of the voyage Avas also published at London in 1839. The botanical 
collections were edited by Sir William J. Hooker and others, in the separate volumes included 
in the Flora Boreala Americana, published in 2 vols., quarto, about 1840, and Hooker's Plantae 
Iconii, of 1844. A large amount of A'aluable material relating to Alaska is to be found in 
all these volumes. Admiral Beechey, wq believe, died in London in 1859. 

1836. — Voyage to the North Pacific in the Russian ship Seniavive, in 1826-'29, by Captain 
Frederick Lutke, (noAv admiral in the Imperial navy,) in 4 vols., 8vo; St. Petersburg and 
Paris, 1835-36. This is one of the most valuable Avorks on Russian America and the north 
Pacific. The author served in the Crimean AA'ar of 1856. 

1839. — Bacr, Von K. E, Statistics and Ethnography of the Russian American Countries. 
This author, it is said, AA'as Avith Admiral Von Wrangel Avhen governor of Sitka, and made 
valuable contributions on the above subjects and on natural history to the scientific journals 
of St. Petersburg and Berlin, between 1837 and 1845. 

1839.— T/te Physical History of Man. In 2 vols., 8vo, plates ; 1839. The Natural His- 
tory of Man. In 2 vols., 8vo, plates ; 1855. Both by Dr. J. Pritchard, of London, and 
esteemed as high authorities in ethnology. They contain valuable matter on the Alaska 
Indians. The volumes of transactions of the ethnological societies of Noav York, London, 
and Paris also contain accounts of the tribes of the Territory to be found in no other publica- 



602 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TEEEITORIES 

tions. In tliis category are also the learned etlinological works of Dr. S. G. Morton, of 
Philadelphia, from 1840 to 1850. 

1839. — Beitrnge zxir Kcntniss des Russian Reichs, unci der angranzandcn Lander Asics, 
by K. E. Von Bar and G. Von Helmersen, in several volumes, from 1839 et sig. 

1840. -^Notes on the Islands of the district of Unalaska, Sfc., in 3 vols. 8vo, 1840. Also 
notes on the Koloschon and other Russian American Indian tribes and their languages, in 
1 vol., 8vo, 1846, by the Greek Priest Jvan Veniaminov, (in Russian,) both published in St. 
Petersburg. W. Schott also published seme philological papers on the Koloschon language, 
in Ermau's archives, Berlin, 3d vol., 1843 

1843. — Voyage of the Suljjhur to the North Pacific, SfC, in 1837-1841, under Sir Edward 
Belcher, R. N., (now admiral.) In 2 vols., 8vo, 1840. The zoology of the expedition, in 
quarto, was published in 1843-45. These accounts relate largely to Russian America. They 
are government works. 

1844. — Explorations, S\'c., in the tico Californias, Sfc., S^'c, in 1840-43. By Duflot de 
Mofras. In 3 vols., 8vo, with volume of atlas and plates, Paris, 1844. Government work. 
Contains notices of Alaska and its trade, Indians, &c. 

1844. — Anales de la Philosophic Chrctiene. Vol. 15 and others. Contains papers of M. 
Prevauey on the ethnological connections of Alaska and Mexico by the Mongolian races. 

1845. — Overland Journey Round the World, ^c. By Sir George Simpson, governor of the 
Hudson Bay territories in 1841-42. In 2 vols., 8vo, London, 1845. Also in New York, 

1845. — Exploring Expedition Round the World, in the Vincennes and other government 
vessels of the United States, in 1838-42, under Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, (now admiral 
U.S.N.) In5 vols., imperial octavo. Government work, 1845. Plates, maps, charts, and 
plans. Some 40 volumes altogether were published on the results of this expedition, many 
of which contain more or less valuable of scientific matter on Alaska. A number of the 
ofHcers of the expedition afterwards served in California from 1846 to 1867. 

1846. — U Oregon ct les Cotes du Norde Pacifique, ^,*c. By M. Felix. With map; 1 voL, 
8vo. Paris, 1846. 

1S46. — Ethnology and Philology of Wilkes^s Exploring Expedition. By Horatio Hale, 1 
vol., quarto. Philadelphia, 1846. 

1S47. — History of Oregon, California, and the North Pacific Coasts. By Robert W. Green- 
how. 1 vol., BvOj 4th ed., Boston, 1847. Mr. Greenhow was United States attorney for 
the California Land Commission of 1852, and died in San Francisco in 1856. His work 
contains valuable notations on Alaskan history, 

1847. — Studies on the Primitive History and Antiquities of the Races of America and Ocean- 
ica, by Gustave D'Eitcthal, 2 vols., 8vo, Fragments on the History, Geography, &c., of 
America, by C. F, Jomard ; 1 vol,, 8vo. Both these works were published (in French) at 
Paris in 1847, 

1848. — Volume of Charts and Maps on Russian America, tVc, printed by the lithographic 
press at Sitka in 1848, 

1849. — The Collections of Lieutenant Zagoskin, of the Imperial navy, on the Indian Tribes 
and Languages of Alaska, are printed in the Memoirs of the St. Petersburg Geographical 
Society for ] 847-'48-'49, et seq., and also in his work of travels, in 2 vols,, 8vQ. ; St. Peters- 
burg, 1847-1848. 

1850-'60. — Orography, SfC, of the North Pacific Countries, by Professor Grewingk, pub- 
lished in Transactions of the Miueralogical Society of St. Petersburg, and also in Germany. 
This is stated by Mr, Sumner to be a very valuable work, particularly on the mineral devel- 
opments of Alaska. 

1850, — National History of the Varieties of Man, by Dr, R, G, Latham, 8vo, Loudon, 
1850. 

1851. — Sir John Richardson's Arctic Expedition. 2 vols., 8vo, London, 1851, 

1851. — A Nautical and Historical Directory of the Pacific Coasts and Islands, Sfc, S^'c, by 
Alexander G. Findlay; 2 vols., royal 8vo, Loudon, 1851. This is a work of great merit, 
and one of the best compiled on oceanic hydrography, and has been of great utility. The 
author is well known in England, and an eminent collaborator in the proceedings of the 
Royal Geographical Society. His notations on the Alaskan coasts are from the best author- 
ities of Russia and other nations. 

1852. — Voyage of the ship Herald, under Captain Hy, Kellet, in 1845 to 1851, being three 
cruises to the Behring's straits countries and a voyage round the Avorld ; by Dr. B. Socman; 
2 vols., 8vo, 1853. Other volumes on the natural history of the voyage were published by 
Prof. Edward I'orbes, 1 vol., quarto, 1853. A separate volume was written by Dr. Seeman 
on the botany of the voyage, in quarto. All of them arc in high esteem in the learned 
world. See also the volumes of Sir Leopold McClintock on his voyage to Behring's straits 
and the Arctic, of 1852 to 1854 ; also, the volumes of the London Nautical Magazine, The 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 603 

work of Seeman contains the model of an exj^loiing voyage, and is the most couYqnicut 
thing of the kind wo have ever seen. 

1S55. — Admiral Von Wrangd. This gentleman, who several times visited California, was 
governor of Russian America before 1848, and wrote largely in the Russian and German 
journals on the status and natural history of Alaska. His works arc considered of first-class 
merit. 

1855. — Notices of the Crustacea and other Invertebrate Marine Animals of the North Pacific 
Countries, by Professor William Simpson, surgeon, &c., of the United States North Pacific 
expedition of 1854-'5G. These notices were published in the transactions of several learned 
societies of Philadelphia, New York, and Boston, from 1855 to J8G3, and would now make 
a r2mo. of some 300 pages, and have become standard authorities in natural science. The 
autlior is well known in California, has contributed valuable services to the Smithsonian 
Institute, and is now in charge of the Chicago Museum of the Natural Sciences. His nota- 
tions on the invertebrate animals of the Alaskan coasts are extremely interesting and curious. 

1855. — Transactions of the California Academy of Natural Sciences, in 4 vols., 8vo, from 
1855 to 1866; contains several valuable papers on the natural history, &c., of Alaska, by 
writers of the Pacific domain. 

18.55. — The Birds of Texas, California, Oregon, Sfc, by John Cassin, in 2 vols, quarto; 
Philadelphia, 1855 ; with plates. Also the volumes of John J. Audubon on the Biography 
of North American Birds, and his great work cf accompanying plates, all published before 
1855. The Quadrupeds of Norlh American is a celebrated work ; also written by Audubon 
and Dr. John Bacliman, 1840-43. All these volumes are splendidly illustrated, and relate 
largely to the natural histoiy of Alaska. 

18.57. — John C. E. Buschmann, Librarian of the Royal Library of Berlin. The philolog- 
ical treatises of this eminent savan on the Indian languages of Russian America, and show- 
ing their relations to the Athabascan families west of the Rocky mountains, and compari- 
sons with the northern tribes of Mexico, are contained in the volumes of Transactions of the 
Royal Academy of Berlin since 1850. 

1857. — The North Pacific Exploring and Surveying Expedition, by Lieutenant A. W. Hab- 
ersham, U. S. Navy; 1 vol., 8vo, 1857. 

1857. — Three Years in Washington Territory, with notices (>f the northwest coasts, by Jas. 
G. Swan; 1 vol., 12mo, New York, 1857. 

1857. — Mission to the Government of Japan, by Commodore IM. C. Perry, U. S. Navy ; in 
3 vols., quarto, 18,57, copiously illustrated. Contains highly valuable notices on the hydro- 
graphy of the north Pacific, its great sea currents, &c., »S:c. ; government work. 

1857. — The Pacific Railroad Survey volumes, from 1853 to 1858, in 12 vols., quarto, copiously 
illustrated. The first volume and the 8th, 9th, and 10th contain valuable notations on the 
Indians, birds, fishes, and animals, &c., of the Pacific domains and of Alaska. In the eighth 
and ninth volumes may be found Spencer F. Baird's Bibliographies of American Natural His- 
tory, where all the authorities on Alaskan zoology are set forth. 

1858. — Reports of the United States Coast Survey Office, in quartos, since 1853. That of 
1858 contains the excellent directory of George Davidson of the coasts of California and to 
the far north, and incidentally of Alaska. 

1858. — Literature of the Aboriginal Languages of America, by H. E. Ludewig ; Avith 
additions by W. W. Turner and N. Truebner. 1 vol., 8vo., London, 1858. 

I860. — Chinese Repository. An English magazine published at Canton since 1838, and 
making now over 30 volumes. It contains an immense amount of matter on Asiatic litera- 
ture, and has papers on Alaska and Kamstchatka. It was first edited by an American mis- 
sionary from Massachusetts. 

1S60.— Geographical Dictionary of all the Countries of the World, by J. B. McCulloch ; 
in 2 vols., royal 8vo, London, 1855, and recent editions. 

1860. — The Forest Trees of North America, by Dr. J. G. Cooper, of California ; in Patent 
Office Report for 1860. This is an addendum to the great work of Michaux and Nuttall. 

1860. — The Flora of North America, by Dr. John Torrey and Dr. Asa Gray ; in royal 8vo 
volumes. Also, their continuations in the volumes of the Railroad Surveys. 

ISQO.— Smithsonian Institution. The volumes of annual reports of this Institution, and 
those entitled "Contributions to Knowledge," contain several valuable notations on the 
Indians and natural history of Alaska. Major Robert Kennicott, of Chicago, one of their 
most famous assistants, and who explored the eastern sections of Alaska in 1662-'64, died 
at Michaelowski, in that Territory in May, 1866, while engaged in explorations connected 
with Bulckley's Telegraph Survey. The manuscripts of his travels are said to be in posses- 
sion ot his friends in Chicago and the Smithsonian Institution. 

1860. — The Indianalogy of California, including notes on the Indian tribes of Alaska and 
other portions of the Pacific domain ; published in the California Farmer newspaper in four 
series of 150 numbers, from 1860 to 1864, by Alex. S. Taylor; perfect set in the mercantile 



604 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

library of San Francisco, and the library of the Smithsonian Institution. The valuable papers 
of the late Albert Gallatin on the northwest Indian nations are to be found in the volumes 
of the New York Ethnological society, after 1845. 

18(50. — The Geography of the Sea, by Lieutenant M. F. Maury, 8th edition. New York, 
1861 ; .also his Wind and Current Charts of the Pacific ocean. This airthor was Superin- 
tendent of the National Observatory at Washington, and afterwards became an admiral in 
the rebel service of the southern confederacy. The work contains valuable notations on the 
winds and currents of the North Pacific. 

1861. — The Vegetation of the Coasts and Islands of the Pacific, from the collections on the 
voyage of the Russian ship Seniavive, under Captain Lutke, 1826-1829, by P. H. Vou 
Kitlitz, in quarto, j'nblished in Germany, in 1861. 

1861. — History of the Discovery of the Earthy by Carl Von Ritter ; London, 1861. 

1861. — History of Eai>tern Asia, Mongolia, China, Manchuria, the Amoor, Kamtschatka, 
Sfc, Sfc, Sfc, by Professor Frederick C. Neuman, of Munich and Berlin; London, 1861. 

1862. — Discoveries in northern Pacific from Mongolian Asia, before the times of the Ice- 
landers, (A. D. 500. ) These are said to be written by Mr. C. G. Leland, and published in 
the Knickerbocker and Continental magazines of 1848 and 1862, and are mostly, as is under- 
stood, from the work of Professor F. C. Neuman, of Munich and Berlin. 

1802. — History of the Discovery and Chartography of the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of 
North America, by Dr. John G. Kohl. 1 vol., 8vo, London, 1862. 

18615. — Report to the Imperial Government on the Resources of Russian America, Sfc, with 
notices of British Columbia, California and the north coast countries, in 1860-'61, by Cap- 
tain P. N. Golownin ; St. Petersburg, 1863. Also published in some periodical in numbers, 
and, as is said, in English. 

1863. — Les Pevples dc la Russie. This Ave judge, from Sumner's remarks, is a very 
voluminous and valuable work on the populations of the Russian empire, published about 
1863. (See also the Almanach do Gotha for 1867, on the same subject.) 

1864. — Travels in the countries of the river Amoor, with Notices of Russian America and 
North Pacific Commerce, by Major Perry D. McCoUins ; 1 vol., 8vo ; New York, 1864. This 
was written in furtherance of the great enterprise of the telegraph connecting North Amer- 
ica and Asia. 

1865. — Atlas for the Hist'm) of the Discovery of America, compiled under direction of the 
Royal Academy of Munich. Tliis collection is made by photographing old and scarce maps 
on tlie Americas to the number 13, and 100 copies of the work were published in 1865, at 
Munich, at the price of $il8. Some of these, relating to the northwest coasts before 1571, are 
taken from a scarce and celebrated chartographical collection of the Portuguese scholar Vaz 
Dourada. (See notes of Professor F. C. Neuman, in the San Francisco Evening Bulletin.) 

3 807. — Speech of Senator Sumner, of Massachusetts, in the United States Senate, in May, 
1887, on the purchase of Alaska, and the resources, Sfc, of the Territory. Pamphlet, 8vo, of 
48 ])ages and large map of the Territory and vicinities. The discussions on the transfer of 
Alaska in the United States Congress will be found preserved in the A'olumes of the Con- 
gressional Globe, written down by the official reporters, in 1867. 

1867. — The official correspondence between Secretary Seward, of the State Department, and 
the Russian diplomats, on the piuchase and transfer of Alaska, will be found at lai'ge in the 
volumes accompanying the President's message for 1867-1868, from April to December, 1867. 
(See also the San Francisco newspapers.) 

1867. — New Map of Alasha. A new and extended map of Russian America was pre- 
pared in May, 1867, by the ofScers of the coast survey in California, which is stated to be 
detailed from the most recent authorities, and the best to date. 

1867. — Bulcldey's Telegraph Survey. The officers of this expedition are stated to be engaged 
in the preparation of a work on the Explorations of British Columbia and Alaska, connected 
with this great enterprise. 

1867. — Sea Charts. Some excellent navigating charts of the North Pacific coasts have 
been within the last 18 months issued from the admiralty office of London. These contain 
the most recent and reliable notations prior to the Coast Survey map mentioned in the fore- 
going. 

1868. — Letters to the New York Tribune and Boston Advertiser. 

1868. — Letters and speech of Senator Cole, of California, in favor of the acquisition of 
Alaska. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 605 



GEMIIAL OBSEriYATMS 01 THE PACIFIC SLOPE. 

PEOGRESS OF SETTLEMENT— IMIOGRATION AND LABOR. 
SECTION I. 

iNTLUEfTCE OF Mlning ON OTHEE INTEEESTS. — Within tlie brief space of 
nineteen years our people liave oiiened up to settlement a larger area of territory', 
valuable as a source of supply for nearly all tlie necessities of man, than has 
ever before in the world's history been brought within the limits of civilization 
in so short a time. Nineteen j^ears ago California, Arizona, Colorado, Montana, 
Idaho, Washington Territory, Oregon, Utah, and Nevada, occupying more than 
one-third of the entire area of the United States, were regions chiefly known 
to trappers and traders; traversed and occupied for the most part by barbarous 
hordes of Indians. That this extraordinary advance, with all its concomitant 
results to the trade and commerce of the world, has been achieved by the discov- 
ery and development of our mineral resources, no reasonable man pretends to 
dispute. Every day's progress in oiu- history speaks for itself, and the facts 
are patent to all. 

It seems a little singular, considering the millions of treasm-e thus added to 
om- national wealth, the vast range of industry opened to our people, the won- 
derful impulse given to agriculture, commerce, and manufactures, that of all our 
gi'eat national interests, the business of mining has had the hardest struggle to 
enlist the favorable consideration of our government. Of late years, throuo-h 
the irresistible logic of results, something has been achieved in the way of more 
iutelhgent fe:leral legislation. 

The mineral land law, of July 28, 1866, granting titles in fee to the miners, 
is an advance in the right direction. The appropriation for the collection of 
mining statistics is another. 

There are in the Atlantic States many who will sjDeak of mining as an inter- 
est inimical to the welfare of a people, owing to its fluctuating and hazardous 
character, and to the contempt it is sujDposed to beget for the more gradual 
methods of acquiring Avealth. There is much truth in this view when it is con- 
fined to the early style of mining, which despised restraint and debauched the 
morals as it impaired the constitutions of those who followed it in a spirit of 
wild adventure. But the objection docs not lie against mining as a regialar, sys- 
tematic pursuit, directed by skill and capital, and relying upon the steady con- 
tinuance of moderate profits. This kind of mining, by common consent, is des- 
tined to be one of the most permanent and healthfnl sources of prosperity. The 
application of American ingenuity and enterprise to the development of the 
deposits of precious metals found west of the Rocky mountains, is certain ulti- 
mately to make mining for gold and silver as legitimate and safe a business as 
mining for coal and iron, and as great a promoter of diversified industry. 

If \vc take mining only in its past condition and its present transition state, 
we must admit that with all its evil effects upon individuals, it has caused most 
important general benefits, especially in anticipating by generations the peopling 
of the immense Territories of the west, and thus Avidening the field for the dis- 
play of national energies, broadening the spirit and firmly bracing the national 
credit. But for the mining furor of the last 19 years, California would proba- 
bly have remained a vast cattle range to this day, and all the great Territories 
that adjoin it, now peopling with civilized communities, and nearly traversed by 
a railroad uniting both shores of the continent, would still be savage wastes, 
held and controlled by the barbarians who are fast retiring before the forces of 
modern progress. 

The du'ect effect of mininsj upon agriculture and commerce is strikingly shown 



606 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

in Californica. How mucla wheat w-ould now be exjDorted from San Francisco 
but for the mines and the population attracted by them? How many interior 
towns wouhl have been built ; how far would the Pacific raih'oad have been 
constructed; where would have been the overland mail and telegraph, and the 
China steamship line, but for the necessities created by the development of our 
mineral wealth? The mines have not only led to these things, but they have 
built up a great manufacturmg interest, "which abeady, in San Francisco alone, 
estimates its annual product by a ligure nearly as high as that of the gold fields. 

The truth is, agriculture, commerce, manufactures, and mining, are essentially 
homogeneous pm'suits. The only antagonism is one of wrong methods, and 
these are sure to be rectified in time. In some quarters of the globe it is com- 
merce that leads, in others agriculture, in others minmg. The last has been 
especially conspicuous as a motor of emigration and industrial development in 
the Pacific States, and has caused the others to flourish where nothing else could 
have attracted them for a long time later. The rich silver mines of Nevada 
have peopled that State with an industrious and thriving popidation. Farms 
are seen where sage-brush deserts existed a few years ago ; the rugged declivi- 
ties of the mountains abound in gardens. On the western slope of the Sierra 
Nevada we have luxuriant orchards and vineyards, in the place of endless for- 
ests of pine. Baron Humboldt, the most learned of travellers and most acute 
of observers, tells us that the best cultivated fields of Mexico are those which 
surround the richest mines ,• and he bears testimony to the fact that '■'■ wherever 
metallic veins have been discovered, in the most uncultivated parts of the Cor- 
dilleras, on the isolated and desert table-lands, the working of mines, far from 
impeding the cultivation of the soil, as it is generally imagined, has been siugu- 
larly favorable to it." And the reasons he gives are conclusive : 

Want .soon awakens industry. The soil begins to be cultivated in the ravines and decliv- 
ities of the neighboring mountains, wherever the rock is covered with earth. Farms are 
established in the neighborhood of the mines. The high price of provisions, from the com- 
petition cf purchasers, indemnifies the cultivator for the privations to Avhich he is exposed 
from the hard life of the mountains. 

The truth of these observations is strikingly illustrated by the example of 
California. But mming in that State has a still more direct influence upon the 
development of our agricultural resources than the direct demand it creates in 
the mining districts for agricultural products. The vast net-work of ditches in 
the central counties has inaugurated a system of irrigation which may some day 
be almost as indispensable to the farms, orchards, and vineyards of the diy 
uplands as to the placer diggings. No purely agricultural interest could bear 
the expense of constructing these immense ditches, some of which rauge from 
50 to GO miles in Icugth, and cost singly several hundred thousand dollai's. 
Most of these ditches will be available for jDurposes of irrigation and manufac- 
ture, long after the original occasion for them shall have passed away. 

That the agricultural and manufacturing will be far in advance of the mining 
interests of California Avithin a few years, none who hnvc studied the market 
and shipping lists for the past year or two can doubt; nor can it be denied that 
this is a matter of congratulation, for while mining is so efficient as a stimulating 
and co-operating industry, it is not the most solid or genuinely productive and 
lucrative industry, and all human experience shows that a people never attain 
the highest prosperity and the best culture who are largely devoted to a single 
pursuit. Humboldt says ^^tho influence of the mines on the progressive culti- 
vation of the country is more durable than they are themselves." While it 
must be admitted, therefore, that " the produce of the earth derived from agri- 
culture is the sole basis of pennanent opulence," it is but just to say, so far at 
least as the Pacific coast is concerned, that the working of mines has tended 
more than all other causes to the development of that pre-eminent branch of 
industrv. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 607 

Although the business of mining has not advanced in any remarkable degree 
during the j^ast year, the average yield is fair, and greater confidence exists than 
evei before in the profits to be derived from this pursuit when conducted upon 
legitimate principles. The depression in mining stocks, so far from atfordiuo- 
evidence of any actual decline in the value of the mines, is a healthy indication. 
It proves that the era of reckless speculation which has resulted so disastrously 
to thousands of our citizens is drawing to a close. It presents conclusive evi- 
dence that a system of mining based upon the fluctuations of a stock market 
can never be permanently prosperous. Wherever the mines are carefully worked 
by individuals or by companies we find the average of success quite as great as 
in other branches of industry. 

It is manifest, however, that quartz-mining, apart from the hazards naturally 
incident to it, labors under disadvantages which do not jiertain, in so great a 
degree, to any other pursuit. It requires a greater amount of capital and the 
employment of a larger number of men than any other productive branch of 
industry, excepting, probably, manufactures, which are not subjectto the same risks. 
Taking the aggregate of losses and profits on all the investments made in quartz- 
mining, there is no business, so far, on the Pacific slope which has proved less 
remunerative to capitalists.* 

Cost or Labor and Expenses of Living. — A serious obstacle to the pros- 
perity of the mining interest on the Pacific slope is the high cost of labor. It is 
impossible that any mine, however productive, can long continue to bear the drain 
upon its resources necessary, at the present rate of wages, to defray the expenses 
of working it. There are innumerable mines in every State and Territory west 
of the Rocky mountains now idle, which could be worked at a proiit if the 
expenses of labor were not so disproportionate to the cost of living. Wages are 
still in many instances more than double what they are in the Atlantic States, 
and tenfold more than the wages paid in Europe. The question arises, why 
should this be the case, when the cost of living is now but little greater in 
many of the mining districts than in the Atlantic States, and certainly bears 
no proportion between the wages paid and the cost of living in Europe. 

In California the rate of Avages for unskilled labor in the mines is $2 50 to 
$3 per day ; cost of boaixl and lodging, $5 to 87 per week. In Nevada, Avages 
S4 per day ; living, $7 to $10 per week. In Montana, wages $6 per day ; living, 
$10 to $14 per Aveek. In Idaho, AA'ages $5 to $6;' living, $9 to $12 per AA^eek, 
In Oregon and Washington, $1 50 to $2 50 per day ; living, $4 to $6 per AA'eek. 
Skilled labor varies greatly, according to the demand and supply. The folloAA'- 
ing rates paid in Virginia, Nevada, for the various grades of labor, may be taken 
as a medium illustration : 

Gold. 

Ordinary miners, per shift of eight hours $4 00 

Carjienters and millAvrights, per day 5 00 

Stone and brick-masons, per day 6 00 

Engineers, second class, per day .$5 00 to 6 00 

Engineers, first claes 6 00 to 8 00 

MILL HANDS, TAVO SHIFTS IN 24 HOURS. 

Amalgamators and feeders 3 00 to 3 50 

Rock-breakers and ordinary Avorkmen 2 50 to 3 00 

At the mills, Avhen the men arc boarded, the foremen get $55 to $60, the latter 
$45 to $50, per month. 

In section 18, page 384, a table is given of the market prices of provisions 
and various other necessary articles Avhere miners board and lodge theraselves.t 

* Some of these observations originally appeared in newspapers to Avhich they were fur- 
nished by the undersigned. — J. E. B. 

t The prices in San Francisco are from 25 to 30 per cent. less. 



EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



IMany of the better class build small cabins in the vicinity of the mines, where 
they can obtain ground free of cost, and live comfortably aud economically. 
This is especially the case where they have families to superintend their domestic 
affairs. Some of them have thrifty little gardens, and raise all the vegetables 
they require. 

Contrast this with the wages paid at Freiburg, in Saxony, where the miners 
have as much as they can do to procure the necessary means of subsistence, leav- 
ing nothing for the future. Ordinary miners receive per shift of eight hours Sf 
silver groschcn, (about 22 cents,) equal to $1 32 per week. Many boys are 
employed about the reduction works ; they earn 1^ to 5 silver groschen for eight 
hours' labor, equal to 3i- to 11^ cents per shift, or 21 cents to 69 cents per week. 
The prices of labor in the Harz and in Hungary and Bohemia are nearly the 
same. It would be difficult to make a comparison of the cost of living in those 
countries as compared with expenses in the States and Territories of the Pacific 
slope. If similar articles of subsistence had to be purchased in Europe, the 
miners there could not earn enough to pay for their food alone. They do not 
live in the same expensive way, and consequentlj'^ it costs them a much smaller 
amount; but the miner in Kevada who receives $4 per day, or $24 per week, 
and pays $10 per week board, has $14 left, while the Saxon or Harz miner, if 
it cost him nothing at all to live, Avould have but $1 32 as the gross result of 
his labor. The difference in other necessary expenses, such as clothing, &c., 
bears about the same relation to wages in Nevada, contrasted with wages in 
Europe, as expenses of living. 

I am indebted to Mr. R. W. Raymond, editor of the American Journal of 
of Mining, for the folloAving particulars in reference to wages paid to miners in 
Great Britain. At the date of his letter Mr. Raymond was in Boston, and not 
within reach of all the sources of information familiar to him. It is proper, 
therefore, that the data herewith submitted should be accompanied by his expla- 
nation. He writes under date of October 30, 1867 : 

Cut off from my private library, and prevented by circumstances from making thorough 
research in any of the public libraries of Boston, I cannot give you as full data as I would 
like concerning the wages paid in England at the present time to miners and mining engi- 
neers ; but I jot down a few statistics, hastily arranged, on which you may depend as both 
modern and accurate. If you would pursue your inquiries further, consult " Mineral Statis- 
tics of the United Kingdom," Robert Hunt, P. R. S., 1865; reports of the committee of the 
Hoi^se of Commons on mines and of the commissioners on mines (parliamentary blue-books, 
both 1866;) London Mining Journal and Colliery Guardian, 1865,1866,1867. The Berg- 
und-hiittenmauische Zeitung for 1865, 1866, aud 1867 contains a series of admirable accounts 
of coal-mining in England, with some particulars as to wages. This I have used, but the 
others arc at present not at hand; and I have only a few notes from Levi's " Wages of the 
Working Classes," London, 1867 ; his authorities are Hunt and the parliamentary reports. 
Miners are not uncommonly paid (as, for instance, the tributors of Cornwall) according to 
the amount and quality of ore extracted and its market price at the time ; so that they some- 
times make large profits and sometimes none at all. In the following table I have arranged 
the wages per week as well as I could : 



Locality. 



Class. 



Shifts. 



Wages per 
week. 



Cornwall 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Korth of England . 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Wales 

Newcastle 



Metal , 
...do. 
...do. 



Dressing works . 

...do 

Iron 

Dressing works . 

Furnaces 

...do 

Metal 

...do 

Coal 



Tributors 

Tut-workmen . 

Surface 

Women 

Children 

Miners 

Separators 

Smelters 

Koasters 

Miners 



.flo 



Do. 



.do. 



Cououlting engineer for ten 

or twelve mines. 
Fh'st manager of each mine, 



s. d. 

20 

18 

14 

e 

2 C 

22 

18 

20 

17 6 

16 6 

15 
00 

CO 



WEST OF THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 
Table of wages, ^'c. — Continued. 



609 



Locality. 



Class. 



Shifts. 



Wages per 
week. 



Newcastle 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

South Yorkshire 

Scotland 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Average of England 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Avei-age England and Wales. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

United Kingdom 



Do. 
Do. 
Do. 



Coal.. 
...do. 
...do. 
...do. 
...do. 
...do. 
...do. 
...do. 
...do. 
...do. 
...do. 



.do. 
. do . 



....do 

Metal 

Coal 

Metallurgical works 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Iron furnaeea, roll- 
ing mills, &c. 

...do 

...do 

...do 



Second manager each mine. 

Overmen each mine 

Deputy over-men each mine. 

Miners 

Tuunellers 

Engine-drivers 

Horse-keepers 

Boys 

Miners 

...do 

Surface day laborers 

Superintendent 

Second superintendent 

Men over t'O years 

Boys under 20 years 

Men over 20 years 

Boys under 20 years 

Men 

Boys 

Women 

Girls 

Men 



Boys..., 

Women 
Girls.... 



s. d. 

8 

35 

28 

40 

33 

26 

16 

8 

24 

24 
16 
28 

25 
22 

7 
22 

6 

25 

10 

8 
5 

20-40 



12 

10 

GO 



N. B. — The averages given, especially in the case of metallurgical works, are made up of 
widely differing wages, according to rank and skill of workmen. The foregoing table, how- 
ever, gives a good notion of the condition of the miners and smelters as a class. It will be 
seen that coal-miners (under contract) often earn more than the salaries of over-men, deputy 
managers, &c. This is paralleled in Pennsylvania. 

The following valuable information in reference to the cost of living in tho 
principal iron districts of England is furnished to the Chicago Tribune by its 
London correspondent, under date of May 15, 1867. After a detailed statement 
of the rates of Avages, the writer says : 

Referring to the social condition of the workmen earning the wages indicated in the fore- 
going quotations, I proceed to give the prices of the common articles of consumption, 
because man's position must be estimated by a comparison between his earnings and the 
amount which he must of necessity expend in order to support himself and family. The 
cost of living is not quite uniform throughout the country, but in no district is it higher than 
in the one selected for illustration. 

Retail Prices.— Flour, 2s. hU per 14 pounds, or £1 12s. M. per barrel; butter, Is, to 
Is. 2d. per pound; cheese, 8rf. to \Qd. per pound; bacon, Id. to M. per pound; beef, Id. 
to 9r/. per pound; mutton, C.Jc/. to 8^-rf. per poirnd; pork, M. to Id. per pound; sugar, Ad. 
to bd. per pound ; tea, 2s. Gd. to 3s. per pound ; coffee, Is. 2d. to Is. Ad. per pound ; milk, 
Sd. to Is. per gallon ; ale, Is. to 2s. per gallon ; whiskey, 15s. per gallon ; brandy, 13s. to 20s. 
per gallon; gin, 10s. to 12s. per gallon: gray cotton cloth, 2d. to Qhd. per yard; white cot- 
ton cloth, AM. to SM. per yard ; loom Dowlas, lid. to XQ^d. per yard ; white flannel, Xs. to 
Is. M. per yard ; blue flannel, Is. to 6s. per yard ; colored flannel, Is. to 2s. per yard ; prints, 
bid. to fi^d. per yard ; French merino. Is. M. to 3s. per yard ; Coburgs, 6^f/. to Is. 2d. per 
yard; Windsey, Q\d. to is. 9d. per yard; Linsey, Gld. to lOid. per yard; pilot cloth, 4s. 
(id. to"8s. 6rf. per yard ; doeskins, 2s. 6d. to 5s. per yard ; moleskin. Is. 6f/. to 3s. per yard; 
corduroys, Is. 6d. to 3s. per yard ; regattas, 6d. to bd. per yard ; men's worsted hose, old. 
to Is. Ad. per pair; Avomen's cotton hose, iid. to Is. per pair; bed-ticking, S^d. to Is. lOd. 
per yard ; blankets, 8s. to 25s. per pair ; cotton sheets, 2s. 6d. to 6s. per yard ; counterpanes, 
2s. to 6s. each. 

Eeady-made Clothing. — Men's black cloth coats, 17s, 6d. to 30s. ; men's black cloth 
vests, 4s. 6d. to 9s. Hd. ; men's doeskin trowsers, 10s. to IBs. 6d. ; men's coats, mixed goods, 
15s. to 25s. ; men's trowsers, mixed goods, 7s. (id. to 16s. 6d. ; men's cord and moleskin trow- 
sers, 6s. 6d. to 8s. (id. ; men's white duck trowsers, 2s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. ; men's corduroy and 
moleskin vests, 4s. to 4s. 6d. ; men's corduroy and moleskin jackets, 8s. 6d. ; men's blue 
pilot-cloth jackets, 9s. to 14s. ; men's heavy flannel jackets, 5s. to 8s. Gd. ; men's white duck, 
jackets, 2s. Ad to 3s. ; boots, 12s. to 14s. per pair; tobacco, 4s. per pound. 

39 



filO RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

House rent varies from 2s. G^. to 4s. Gd. per week. Coals of ordinary quality range from 
10s. to 12s. per ton. Rates and taxes will be from 10s. to 15s. per year. In many cases the 
liouses have small gardens attached, and the occnpiers keep a pig. School fees are generally 
not more than 2d. or 'M. per head per week. A few pence per week secures the benefit of 
relief in sickness and medical attendance. 

The iron trade is particularly an industry which is conducted on the piece-work and con- 
tract system. The masters let the different classes of work to contractors, who employ the 
requisite number of hands under them, and, as a matter of course, get the labor done as 
cheaply as possible, iu order that the margin of profit may be the greater for themselves. 
Hence, although the prices paid by any two masters may be nearly identical throughout the 
mills and forges, it by no means follows that the net earnings of the contractors under each 
firm will be identical. Boys are employed in the lighter kinds of Avork, such as door draw- 
ing and dragging out iron from rolls, but there are very few employed irnder 12 years of age. 

The same writer adds : 

It has been said that the English manufacturers live by pauper laborers, Avhich implies 
that the operatives are paid starvation prices — barely enough, under the most favorable con- 
ditions, to enable them to live, and that when a depression in trade occurs the workmen are 
thrown upon the union. This is a gross misrepresentation. Any one who would take the 
trouble to make a close acquaintance with the social condition and habits of the workmen in 
any of the principal seats of English manufacture — iron, cotton, woollen, or earthenware — 
would find that, as a rule, work is only carried on five days a week ; that the operatives 
have a keen appreciation of and an ability to purchase the good things of this life ; that they 
are enthusiastic pleasure seekers, and are lavish in their expenses in holiday times ; that the 
more provident are able to invest large sums in building societies, post office savings banks, 
and the like ; that many of the men live in their own houses, and a greater number have very 
respectable and well-furnished hor.ses. Unfortunately, high wages too frequently begets 
extreme indulgence and improvidence, and there are many dark spots in the social life of any 
district; but this is the fault of the individuals themselves, and were they willing they might 
speedily improve their circumstances. 

Wages Generally and Demand fok Labop.. — The following is a copy 
of an address from the Mechanics' State Council of California to the mechanics 
of the United States and Europe : 

A copy of a circular is in our possession, which we are informed is being distributed 
throughout the Atlantic States and Europe by the authority of the Pacific Mail Steamship 
Company, which bears upon one side of a half sheet the advertisement of that company's 
California line, and on the other what purports to be a correct list of the wages paid for the 
various classes of labor in this city and State. This list is accredited to the Alta Californian, 
the organ of the capitalists and monopolists of this coast, and which has ever been the enemy 
of labor and labor interests. It was published for the purpose of inducing an undue immi- 
gration to this State, especially of mechanics, expecting by that means to break down the 
trade associations in existence here, particularly those which have adopted the eight-hour 
system. This, too, is one of the objects of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company in repub- 
lishing it in the manner they have. They have threatened to bring large numbers of 
mechanics here, let it cost what it may. 

They have already brought from 40 to 60 hero under contracts to work out their passage 
after their arrival. The conditions of these contracts are all in favor of the company, they 
not having bound themselves to give the men work except at pleasure. Some of those who 
came here under these contracts are now out of employment, and have demanded that they 
be employed or that a return ticket be furnished them, both of which demands were refused. . 
A breach of the peace was the consequence, in Avhich the agents of the company were the 
victors. It is a fact well known to the agents of the various steamship lines having vessels 
running to and from this port, that there is already an excess of workmen in all the ship-work- 
ing trades here, and has been for years. They know, too, that in consequence of this excess 
the workmen are idle nearly, if not quite, one-half of their time. They know, too, that the 
sum of ^9 per day, quoted as the wages paid to caulkers, is not, nor has it ever been, the 
current wages here for ten years past; and that §15 per day for Sunday's work was never 
paid but in a single instance. Both these prices were paid by a steamship company to obtain 
men to prepare a ship for £ea, on one occasion, two years ago — the men working extra hours 
to get her ready to sail as advertised. The shipwrights, ship-joiners, caulkers, bricklayers, 
stonecutters, and some one or two other trade associations, regulate wages and have uniform 
rates. In other branches each journeyman contracts for himself. "The Mechanics' State 
Council," a central organization, composed of delegates from the various trade associations, 
have appointed a committee to ascertain and report to them, among other things, the rate 
of wages paid to journeymen iu all branches, with the average amount of time employed 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



611 



durinoj the year. This committee have not yet completed their reports, but they have fur- 
nished us the following statistics concerning some of the principal trades : 



Trades. 


Highest wages 
per day. 


Average. 


Trades. ' 


Highest wages 
per day. 


Average. 




$4 00 

4 50 to 6 00 
3 00 

2 50 to 4 00 

3 CO to 4 00 

5 00 

4 00 to 5 00 
4 00 to 5 00 
3 00 to 4 00 
3 50 to 4 00 


$3 81 
2 75 
2 50 
2 25 
2 25 
2 75 

2 50 

3 00 
3 25 
2 50 


Plumbers 


$3 00 to 4 00 
3 00 to 4 OJ 

2 50 to 4 00 

3 00 to 4 00 

3 50 to 4 00 
5 00 

4 00 
3 00 

3 50 10 4 00 

4 00 


$2 75 
2 75 




Gas-iitters 






2 75 


House carpenters 


Wood-tumers 


3 00 




2 50 






•"> 50 












■'' OD 






2 50 






2 50 









These figures were obtained by con^-ulting the members of the various trades, and can be 
relied upon as correct. We are led to believe that an organization consisting of 30 or 40 of 
our citizens, and known as the "Immigrant Aid Association," is aiding in the dissemination 
of statements which are calculated to deceive the unwary. Therefore we say to all, receive 
any statements relating to the rate of wages, the chance and prospects for obtaining good 
arable lands near the market, or to there being a demand for skilled labor here, with many 
grains»of allowance. They are but an ignis fatuus, intended to allure you here to accom- 
plish some private purpose of individuals or monopolies. Times are dull here in many 
trades, and they cannot be expected to improve while the rainy season lasts. In some trades 
the approach of wet weather tends to improve business; among these are the metal roofers, 
asphalium workers, and shoemakers. For the first time in the history of this city, relief 
committees to provide for the necessities of the members of several of the trades have 
been formed, and hundreds of dollars have been collected and disbursed for this purpose. 
Let no one come here Avithout the means of support in case they fail in getting employment. 
To mechanics, of all trades, we say, if you come here with good feeling toward your fel- 
lows, with the intention of working hand in hand with us in support of the interests of the 
working classes, we will extend you the right hand of fellowship and welcome you as 
brothers. But do not come here, as some have already done, in the interest of capital, to 
assist in crashing the labor interest of this coast. Any information regarding any trade can 
be obtained by addressing the "Mechanics' State Council," box No. 1493, San Francisco, or 
to either of the undersigned at the same post-office. 
By order of the Mechanics' State Council of California, San Francisco. 

H. J. LOASSE, 
A. M. GREY, 
CHAS. C. TERRILL, 

Corresponding Committee. 
San Francisco, November 25, 1867. 

Commenting' upon tlie address above quoted, the Alta California says : 

The document is a very singular one, and seems to have excited a good deal of surprise at 
the east, where it did more to open the eyes of workingmen to the gross folly and injustice 
of Trades Unions seeking to monopolize employments in a few hands at high wages than 
almost any argument could have done. There are thousands of industrious workingmen at 
the east and in Europe, who at this time are unable to obtain work at all. Those who can 
get employment receive $1 50 to $2 in greenbacks— say .$1 to $1 50 (and average for the 
year !^1 for ten hours' work) in gold. Flour is $10 gold per barrel, and other provisions and 
expenses of living in proportion. Those people struggling for life have put into their hands 
the address to which we called attention. 

That address informs them, on the authority of the State council, that wages in 20 mechan- 
ical branches, which it enumerates, average $2 55 in gold throughout the year for eight hours' 
work. They know that flour and provisions here are cheaper than there, since they are 
sent hence at a profit. They know while the price of fuel there has risen, as the thermometer 
falls to zero, to rates which absorb their whole earnings, that this climate nearly dispenses 
with that expense. They know that the amount of labor to be done here in developing the 
natural wealth of the coast is limitless, and that the more there is done the more capital 
will increase to employ still more. They know also that passages are so low now that the 
transit may be made for the wages of two weeks' labor here. Three weeks will transport 
them from cold and idleness and hunger to warmth, abundance, and high wages. Having 
a lively sense of these truths impressed upon them by the circumstances of distress which 
surrounds them, they reflect upon the true import of passages like the following in "the 
address:" 

" It (rates of wages) was published for the purpose of inducing an undue immigration to 
this State, especially of mechanics, expecting by that means to break down the trade asso- 
ciations in existence here, particularly those which have adopted the eight-hour system." 



612 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

" The sliipwrigiits, ship-joiners, caulkers, bricklayers, stone-cutters, and some one or two 
other trade associations, regulate wages, and have uniform rates. In other branches each 
journeymen contracts for himself." 

"Let no one come here without the means of support, in case they fail in getting employ- 
ment. , To mechanics of all trades, we say, if you come here with good feeling toward your 
fellows, with the intention of Avorking hand in hand with us in support of the interests of 
the working classes, we will extend you the right hand of fellowship, and welcome you 
as brothers. But do not come here, as some have already done, in the interest of capital, to 
assist in crushing the labor interest of this coast." 

These contain the whole programme. The rates of wages are so high here that very 
little work can be done locally, none that can be possibly avoided. This is seen in the fact 
that imports of goods made elsewhere increase enormously. The evidence of this is in the 
returns of duties, which for the first two months of this year were $1,419,089, against 
$1,181,427 last year, an increase of 25 per cent. This increase of importations has taken 
place since the eight-hour law was insisted upon, and as a consequence the address states : 

"Times are dull here in many trades. * * * * For the first time in the history of 
this city, relief committees to provide for the necessities of the members of several of the trades 
have been formed, and hundreds of dollars have been collected and disbursed for this pur- 
pose." 

The stranger may ask, if, as the address asserts, wages are $2 50, gold, per day, how is it that 
so many persons are to be relieved ? Why will they not take less rather than turn paupers ? The 
paragraphs cited give the reply. The trades unions " regulate wages," and suffer uo work to 
be done but at their prices. If those are so high that employers are compelled to import the goods 
instead of making them, aud discharge the hands, those still in employ are assessed to give 
charity to those discharged. So arrogant are these unions, that not long since many scores of 
men in one shop struck worit because a boy had used a hammer for a short time upon some Avork, 
What is called "undue immigration," is the arrival of any person not a member of the union, 
who seeks work for any employer who will pay him. The right of a man in possession of 
capital to employ a man to do some work for him, without asking permission of the union, is 
utterly denied. Also, the right of a man to work for wages without the sanction of "the 
council" is sought to be abolished. Hence the address says, if they come here to obey the 
council, "come," and get work if you can, but not otherwise. The covert threat contained 
iu the advice not to come "in the interests of capital" may be taken for what it is worth. 
This sort of "dictatorship" in a country where slavery was supposed to be abolished is a 
marvel. The extent to which this system may be pushed is made painfully manifest in the 
horrors brought to light in England through investigation into operations of trades unions. 
Happily, here we may rely on the good sense of the people at large, who understand that 
the true interests of this coast can be served only by carrying out the principles of our insti- 
tutions, which guarantee freedom to every man in the " pursuit of happiness." 

When the eastern mechanics see that a close monopoly of unions here enjoying $2 50, 
gold, per man, for 10 hours' work, not being satisfied with that, reduced the hours to eight, 
thus increasing the actual wages paid by employers to $3 10, gold, and then coolly notify 
" the mechanics of the United States and Europe " not to come here aud disturb their " good 
thing," it is possible they may consider their equal rights under the law as good as those of 
" the council," and conclude that if capital enable them to earn even $2 per day, gold, here 
instead of $J at home, then the "interests of capital" are worth considering. 

An analysis of tlie data contained in the preceding pages of tliis report will 
show the following results : 

1. That the area of territory west of the Rocky mountains, abounding in the 
j^recious metals, and in the useful minerals, is limited only by the geographical 
boundaries of our possessions. 

2. That of the vast number of valuable mineral-bearing lodes known to exist 
in our Pacific States and Tenitories, but an infintesimal proportion is in actual 
process of development. 

3. That the area of lands suitable for cultivation is sufficient to support a 
population greater than the total present population of the United States. 

4. That with a climate so salubrious, and resources so varied, this region 
offers inducements to immigration unsurpassed by any other part of the Avorld. 

The following table shows the area and population of each State and Terri- 
tory, the number of miners actually at work in the mines, and the product of 
bullion for 1867. In estimating the population engaged in raining, it is difficult 
to fix upon an exact limit. Mechanics who make the machiner}^ or put it up in 
the mines ; teamsters who haul the ores or the supplies ; assayers, metalurgists, 
and other incidental experts and employes, are to a certain extent engaged in 
, the business of mining. Many thousands who never see a mine derive their 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



613 



support from tliis interest. If we go beyond the superintendents, experts and 
operatives directly engaged in working the mines, the fiehl is unlimited, for it 
may be said the whole population on the Pacific coast is interested dii'ectly or 
indirectly in this pursuit : 

j Area, population, and product. 



states and territories west of the 
Rocky mountains. 



California 

Nevada 

Arizona 

Utah 

jyiontana 

Qdaho 

TVashington Territory. 

Oregon 



Total. 



Area — square 
miles.* 



188,981 
112,090 
113,916 
99, 056 
143, 776 
90, 933 
69, 994 
95, 274 



903, 019 



Acres. 



120, 947, 840 
71,737,741 
72, 906, 304 
56. 355, 635 
92, 016, 640 
58, 196, 480 
44, 796, 160 
60, 975, 360 



577, 932, 160 



Estimatedpop- 
ulation in '67. 



488, 000 

36, 000 

3,000 

110, 000 
32, 000 
20,000 
13, 000 
78, 000 



780, 000 



No. ol men ac- 
tually work- 
ing in mines. 



25, 000 
10,000 
500 
200 
8,000 
6,000 
1,300 
1,000 



Add for total product of the United States : 



New Mexico 

Colorado 

All other sources. 



52, 000 



$500, 000 
2, 500, 000 
5, 000, 000 



Productofgold 
and silver for 
the year end- 
ing Dec. 31,'67 



$25, 000, 000 

20, GOO, 000 

500, 000 



12, 000, 001 
6, 500, oCff 
1,000,001 
2, 000, 000 



75, 000, 000 



3 



67, 000, 000 



8, 000, 000 



* According to report of Commissioner of the General Land office. 

The above table shows that with an area of 903,019 square miles we have a 
population of only 780,000, less than one to the square mile. According to the 
eighth census (1860) the New England States have 49.55; the middle States 
69.83 ; the southern coast States 15.25 ; the w'estern central States 20.93 ; the 
northwestern States 22.14; Texas 2.55. Mr. De Bow, in his compendium of 
the seventh census, gives the density of population in Europe and other foreign 
countries as follows: Russia in Europe 28.44; Austria 141.88; France 172.74; 
England 332.00; Great Britain and Ireland 225.19; Prussia 151.32; Spain 
78.03 ; Turkey in Europe 73.60 ; Sweden and Norwav 15.83 ; Belgium 388.60 ; 
Portugal 95.14; Holland 259.31; Denmark 101.92; Switzerland 160.05; 
Greece 55.70; IVfexico 7.37; Central America 10.07, &c. 

It will be seen that while the population in the Pacific States and Ter- 
ritories is less than one to the square mile, some of the countries of Europe 
exceed 300, as, for example, England 332.00 ; Belgium 388.60. This simple 
statement shows conclusively the great desideratum of the Pacific coast. We 
have climate and natural resources equal to those of the Atlantic States and 
superior to any in Europe ; we have land enough for the support of millions of 
laborers where we now have only thousands. "We want population. Cheap 
labor will develop the dormant wealth of the country. To insure this we need 
the speedy completion of the Central Pacific railroad, and the prompt construc- 
tion of the two additional lines projected across our continent, one north and the 
other south. It is absurd to say, with such a variety of undeveloped resources 
as we possess, that employment is difficult to obtain, and no demand exists 
for labor. If we require no labor, there can bo no demand for population ; and 
if we need no increase of population, then all progress must be considered pre- 
judicial to the interests of the country. The Commercial Herald and Market 
Review, of San Francisco, judiciously remarks : 

The recent numerous amvals of immigrants from the east and from Australia foreshadow 
the great rush which will undoubtedly be made in this direction during the current year, and 
it is eminently proper that these strangers should be instructed by competent parties how to 



614 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

employ tbemselvcs with profit. An army of consumers, who are nou-proclucers, cannot long: 
exist in that contlitiou without means, and in this case our visitors are not overburdened 
with cash. They cannot all find occupation in farming ; nor are our manufactories suffi- 
ciently extensive to accommodate any large number of them ; but our placer mines are far 
from being exhausted, and still offer a lucrative field for the operations of industrious and 
sober men. The cost of living has been reduced three or four hundred per cent, since 1852, 
and, although the placer mines do not yield so richly as at that period and before, they are 
still capable of returning better wages to the industrious miner than he can obtain in any 
other State of the Union. Formerly five dollars, or even seven dollars, a day would not pay 
a man for his time and labor, because the rates of living were too high ; and many fields 
were abandoned which are still capable of yielding those daily returns. Now, a sober, 
economical, and industrious miner can support himself handsomely and save money on $i2 
per day. 

The heavy floods of last winter have probably unearthed umch wealth in our gulches and 
other placer diggings. The copious rains of 1861-'6"2 certainly had that effect, and new dis- 
coveries of a rich character were made at that period. Opportunities for reaching the mines 
are now plentiful where none formerly existed. Mining tools are abundant and cheap in 
comparison with the prices ruling 10 or 12 years ago. It is then our earnest advice to 
those newly arrived immigrants to furnish themselves with picks, hoes, and shovels, without 
delay ; take the earliest opportunity to leave the city and seek the placer diggings ; go to 
work with will and determination ; stick to it with resolution, and but few years will elapse 
before they will thank us for the advice, and congratulate themselves for having acted upon 
it. The longer they remain "waiting for something to turn up," the deeper will they sink 
into the slough of despondency, and the less heart will they have for resolute and determined 
action. Our placer mines still offer a remunerative field for industry. They are not ' ' worked 
out," nor impoverished to an extent that will not pay wages to the miner. Many of them 
will yield from $2 to $4. a day to the hand. Of this there is no doubt, and if newly arrived 
immigrants with limited means will only accept the offers held out by these mines, they will 
do wisely. 

On the same subject the San Francisco Evening- Bulletin makes the following 
timely and sensible remarks : 

Immigration in 1849 and 18QS. — The pioneer immigrants of 20 years ago endured hard- 
ships of which the immigrants of this year will know very little. The six months' voyage 
around Cape Horn in crowded ships, badly provisioned, or the bungalow passage up the 
Chagres river, and the mule ride into Panama, with the long waiting on the Isthmus, or the 
still longer overland journey — these aie experiences of which the modern immigrant will 
know little or nothing. The men of '49 found nothing which could be called homes. A 
sand spit, with a few board and cloth houses, gave little promise of the future city. Every 
article of food or clothing was enormously high. It cost nearly as much to reach the mines 
from this place as the immigrant is now charged for a passage fi'om Southampton to this 
port. The Senator, a year later, transported passengers from this city to Sacramento at rates 
varying from $30 to $3.5 each, and on reaching the latter place the rough and costly journey 
was but just begun. If the miner was successful, his gains would secure very few com- 
forts, for they were not in the country. If he fell sick, the misfortune was aggravated by 
exposure and the absence of all the comforts and appliances which increased ihe chances of 
recovery. There were both suffering and heroism, and as brave struggles with an adverse fate 
as was ever known in the history of any country. 

The immigrants of 1863 will assume no such risks as did these pioneers. They will come 
to a country already dotted over with homes, even more attractive than those of earlier diiys. 
There arc cities, towns, schools, churches, highways, vineyards, orchards, and farms, while 
the cost of living has been reduced below the prevailing rates in many of the Atlantic States. 
And with all these advantages the chances of success in any industrial calling have hardly 
been reduced at all. Wages are not so high, but the cost of living has been cheapened 
more than the cost of labor. The advantages of permanent prosperity, upon the whole, 
appear to be upon the side of the immigrant of 18G8. It is a more auspicious time to bcgiu 
the struggle for a foothold and for a competence than it was 20 years ago. The lew great 
opportunities for sudden fortunes may not be so apparent, neither are the risks of failure so 
great. 

No doubt, immigrants who land here during the present year without money will suffer 
many hardships and privations. Some will belong to the great army of incapables, others 
will suffer from diseases incident to changes of country and climate. Many will come with 
more hope than resources, either of capital or muscle. But the immigrants of the present 
year are not likely to incur greater risks of privation than will those who land at New York. 
Of the 50,000, more or less, who may come to the State during the present year, probably 
one-half will come from the States east of the mountains. A large number of them have 
friends here, by whose advice or through whose information they exchange an old homo for 
a new one. This element of incoming population Avill need very little help. Very few of 
them will want charity soups or free lodgings. With a little margin of ready cash they will 
strike out for themselves and help to make their own opportunities. The immigration from 



WEST OP THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 615 

European countries will be more likely to need aid. The country will be new and strangle 
to them, and there will not always be that ready adaptation to the exigencies of new posi- 
tions. Taking the most favorable view of this incoming population, it will still be true that 
a good work can be done in alleviating incidental cases of distress and in preventing others, 
by furnishing to the immigrant without cost such information as will insure his employment 
with the least possible delay. 

The Sacramento Union, in an article advocating tlie organization of a proposed 
" labor exchange/' makes the following judicious suggestions : 

How TO AID Immigrants. — A preliminary meeting was held at the Merchants' Exchange 
in San Francisco, on Tuesday evening, to organize a "labor exchange," or a society to 
devise means for securing employment and present subsistence for needy immigrants arriv- 
ing in that city. The idea is an excellent one and well timed. The society should be organ- . 
ized without delay, and we hope to see it embrace a large number of the best men and most 
practical minds in the State. * * * * 

Many will arrive penniless. Nearly all will be landed at San Francisco. Without some 
means they cannot leave there for any part of the State where the market for labor calls 
them. It will be necessary that the city shall take present care of the needy. Alms-houses 
are not to be thought of in this connection. The desideratum can only be reached through 
a society having the liearty patronage of every business department and the use of large 
sums of money to feed the immigrants and forward them to employment in the interior. 
Such a society ought to embrace members of the large corporations of the State — railway 
companies, steam navigation company, the chamber of commerce, the supervisors, and the 
mayor of San Francisco. It could, with such a make-up, very soon enlist the good otlices 
of the press, and the accord of the people of the interior. These immigrants are coming 
here because we have repeatedly given out that they are greatly needed, and that we have 
an abundance of work for them. These inducements were held out in good faith. We do 
need them, Ave have work for them. But it is sure to happen here, as everywhere else, that 
any extraordinary influx of population will occasion some distress. How to get along with 
the least distress is the problem to be solved. We would suggest that the San Francisco 
" labor exchange" organize at once, and enlist in its ranks as many of the practical busi- 
ness men of that city as possible. Let them then put the society in communication with the 
leading business men of the interior, who are posted as to the probable demand for fresh 
laborers in their respective districts. The several railway superintendents could tell them 
within a score or two how many they can employ each month, and how many to forward. 
The immigrants might be forwarded at the expense of the society, who could arrange in a 
business way to be repaid by the interior employers from the first month's wages earned. The 
great grain shippers of San Francisco have their purchasing and forwarding agents in every 
grain region of the State. These are. no doubt, well posted as to the increased number of 
hands the present crop will require in harvesting. Let the society put itself in direct com- 
munication witli these agents, and here will be an opening for hardly less than 10,000 men at 
from $50 to $60 per month for not less than two or three months. By the same general 
system other thousands might be employed in the timber and lumber regions, and in the 
considerable improvements that will be made this season in all the towns and cities of the 
agricultural districts. It is not probable that more than a third of the new-comers will 
require any other aid than such valuable information as a society so organized might be able 
to give as to the best means of reachiug this, that, or another poiut in the interior, the qual- 
ity of its soil, climate, price of land, advantages of cultivating and means of marketing pro- 
duce. Doubtless many who come will have the ready means to go to work for themselves 
and become employers of others who are destitute. Of the 50,0U0 who may be expected, 
10,000 to 1.5,000 are likely to need more substantial aid to start them off in a way to earn a 
subsistence. There is room for all and more than these on the railways in course of con- 
struction and in gathering a harvest nearly twice as great in area as any ever before planted 
in the State. 



SECTION II. 
GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS ON THE PRECIOUS METALS. 

Why Gold and Silver are used for Money. — Gold and silver were 
adopted as standards of value long before the beginning of the historical era; 
and then- fitness for money was evident even to barbarians. They are hard and 
not subject to oxidation, and therefore they can be kept and handled with com- 
paratively little loss. They have a brilliant lustre suitable for articles of orna- 
ment ; and the peculiarity of the lustre, color, and high specific gravity renders 



616 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

them easily clistinguisliaLle from otlier substances, and makes imitations diffi- 
cult. They are fusible and malleable, so that they can be made into any form 
or stamped with any impression, and the hardness will protect the form or impres- 
sion from wearing out. Both metals are found jiure, so that savages would 
become accustomed to their use before learning to smelt the ores of iron, copper, 
and lead. Both nietals are rare, and thus a small quantity has served to repre- 
sent a large value of other articles; and wealth in the form of gold and silver 
could readily be concealed, or transported from one country to another. There 
are other hard, rare, and lustrous metals, but they cannot readily be refined, or 
their lustre is not peculiar, or the supply is not regular, or they have no recog- 
nized value in the arts ; and thus gold and silver are to-day, as they were 5,000 
years ago, the best of all metals for the purposes of money. 

The QuAis^TiTY or the Precious Metals in Greece and Rome. — The 
quantity of precious metals was small when Athens began to throw the bril- 
liancy of her intelligence and genius over the ancient world. About the year 
600, B. C, nine bushels of wheat could be bought for an ounce of silver in 
Greece ; or, in other words, a bushel of wheat cost 15 cents of our money. 
The advance of civilization was accompanied by an increased production of gold 
and silver. There were mines of both metals in Egypt, Thrace, Armenia, Spain, 
and the dominions of Attica. Spain had the richest mines, and the placers in 
the Asturias produced ^4,000,000 annually for a time, and a silver mine at Guadal- 
canal yielded 300 pounds of metal daily. The spoils of Persia added greatly 
to the stock of the precious metals in Greece, and after the death of Alexander 
an ounce of silver would bu}^ only three bushels of wheat, or only one-third as 
much as three centuries earlier. 

In Italy, previous to the first Punic Avar, gold and silver were still very scarce 
and high in price, but when 'Hhe senate and people of Rome" became masters 
of the world, wealth poured in upon them from all the borders of the Mediterra- 
nean, and the bushel of wheat which cost the twentieth of an ounce of silver 
350 13. 0. cost an ounce and a third in the middle of the first century. 

The annual revenue of the empire in the time of Augustus was $200,000,000, 
and that emperor received $150,000,000 in legacies from his friends. 

Cicero received $800,000 in fees, a sum which has probably never been paid 
to any modern lawyer. 

C. 0. Isidorus, besides large estates and 4,000 slaves, had $15,000,000 coin 
at the time of his death, calculating the value of the money according to weight. 
Jacobs estimates the total stock of coin in the Roman empire in 40 A. D. at 
$1,750,000,000. 

The Principal Epochs in the Modern Production of the Precious 
Metals. — As civilization declined, the quantity of the precious metals decreased, 
and Alaric consented to spare Rome for $1,500,000, and 40 years later the Eter- 
nal Oity had some difficulty in raising $1,200,000 to buy off Attila. The annual 
average wear of coin is estimated at about one part in 360 ; and Avhen this con- 
tinues for centuries with no new supply it makes a great reduction. According 
to the estimate of Jacobs there were in 1492 only $170,000,000 of the precious 
metals in Christendom. Previous to the conquest of Mexico the new world 
yielded only about a quarter of a million dollars annuall}^ to Spain, the govern- 
ment of which lost considerably by the discovery, until Cortes succeeded in 
overthrowing the empire of the Montezumas. 

The Aztecs washed gold from the placers and smelted silver from the ores, 
and had a considerable stock of precious metals on hand when Cortes came. He 
of course took all he could get, and he and his associates soon commenced the 
working of the lodes known to his subjects. Among these were Tasco, Zulte- 
pec, Tlalpujahua, and Pachuca, all in the vicinity of the capital. The annual 
shipment to Spain from 1519 to 1545 was $3,150,000. In the latter year the 
mines of Potosi were discovered, and their yield was so great for that age that 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 617 

a woiiderful impulse was given to mining industry throughout the new ^^-orhl. 
In 1548 Zacatecas began to produce its treasures; Sombrerete in 1555, and 
Guanajuato in 1558. In 1557 a miner named Bartolome de Medina, Avorking 
Pachuca, made a discovery that was more important to silver mining than even 
the opening of Potosi. He found that silver could be extracted from the com- 
mon ores by mixing the pulverized mineral with water, salt, and copper pyrites, 
and it was a process that required very little water, no fuel, little machinery, no 
mechanical skill, and few buildings. It was a method of reduction peculiarly 
adapted to the treeless and waterless mountains, and to the ignorant mining popu- 
lation of Mexico and Peru. Previously all the silver had been obtained by 
smelting, in a very expensive and wasteful manner, the furnaces being small and 
very numerous ; so that it was impossible to prevent great loss, both by incom- 
petency and by dishonest}^ 

Some years elapsed before the amalgamation process was extensively adopted, 
but within 10 years it had been introduced into all the mining districts of Span- 
ish America ; and the workmen became expert, and as the mine-owners found 
the separation of the metal on a large scale could be supervised by one or two 
men, and that thus waste and thieving could be prevented to a much greater 
extent than before, they made renewed exertions to extend their works. The 
production of Potosi was six times as great in 1585 as it had been 12 years 
before, owing partly to the general use of amalgamation, which Avas first intro- 
duced there in 1570, and Avas not generally accepted until some years later. The 
copper-pan or cazo amalgamation Avas discovered in 1590, at Potosi, by Alonzo 
Barba, but its use Avas confined to a fcAV districts. It A\'as during the last decen- 
nium of the IGth centmy that Potosi was in its most prosperous condition, pro- 
ducing $7,500,000 per annum. 

In 1630 the mines of Cerro Pasco were discovered. 

In the years 1726 and 1727 the Vizcaina and Jacal mines of Zacatecas yielded 
$4,500,000. 

The great bonanza of Ileal del Monte was opened in 1762, yielding $15,000,000 
in 22 years. 

The great Avealth of the Veta Madre AA'as demonstrated in 1768, and Guana- 
juato rose almost to the leading position among the argentiferous districts. 

The productioTi of silver in Mexico increased very rapidly from 1770 until the 
beginning of the rcA^olution ; and the increase Avas OAving to A^arious causes, 
including the reduction of the royal tax from 20 to 10 per cent, on the gross 
yield, the reduction in the price of quicksilver, the opening of commerce to Spain, 
merchant A^essels from numerous ports instead of confining the trade to vessels 
from only two ports, the reduction of the price of blasting poAvder from 75 to 50 
cents per pound, the abolition of the alcabala, an article needed at the mines, (an 
odious and oppressi\^e tax on internal trade,) and the purchase of bars by the 
provincial treasury. The fact that the country could produce $10,000,000 annu- 
ally from 1760 to 1770, as it did, in spite of all these restrictions, furnishes con- 
clusiA^e proof of the wonderful Avealth of the mines, and also of the industry of 
the people. A tax of 20 per cent, on the gross yield Avould paralyze every 
branch of British and American mining, and Avould entirely stop the production 
of the precious metals in many districts of California and Australia. Quicksil- 
ver, of which more than a pound Avas lost for every pound of silver extracted, 
cost 80 cents per pound in 1750, and was reduced in 1767 to 62 cents, and in 
] 777 to 41 cents. The purchase of bars by the provincial treasuries Avas of great 
benefit to the miners, who prcAnously had to sell their bullion at a loss of 20, 30, 
or in remote districts even 40 per cent. There Avere fcAV merchants, and those 
fcAV expected to make great profits from their transactions. 

The mines of Hualgayo in Peru Avere found in 1771, and three years later 
the placers of the Ural, Avhich were knoAvn in the time of Herodotus, Avere redis- 
covered. 



618 RESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

It was estimated in 1777 tLat two-fifths of the silver of Mexico was obtained 
by smelting, but this Avas probably an exaggeration, and when Humboldt Avas 
in the country only one-seventh was taken out by means of fire. 

The mines of Catorce Avere opened in 1778, and proved to be very rich, the 
mine of Padre Flores yielding ^1,600,000 the first year. 

The mines of Guarisamey, near Durango, became productive in 1783. 

For two centuries the pnlp in the yard amalgamation process, made Avitli pul- 
verized ore, quicksilver, salt, pyrites, and Avater, Avas mixed by the treading of 
men, who, notAvithstanding the cold, moisture, and mercury, Avere generally 
healthy. 

Singular as it may seem, it AA'as not till 1783 that mules and horses Avere intro- 
duced to this Avork ; and, although the change saA^ed 75 per cent, of the expense 
on that branch of thcAVorking, still it Avould probably not have been adopted A\dien 
it Avas, but for the greatly increased production of silver in Mexico, and the 
difficulty of getting Indian repasadores in some districts. 

The great bonanza of Ramos, that yielded $18,000,000 in nine years, Avas 
opened in 1798. 

The mines of Mexico continued to increase in productiveness until the revolu- 
tion, Avliich Avas a Avar of races, the Mexicans against the Spaniards, the latter 
being in a small minority, but possessing most of the Avealth, mining and com- 
mercial knoAvdedge and enterprise in the country. They Avere driven out, and 
Avith them Avent three-fourths of the men Avho had the money and brains to con- 
duct large mining operations. The i^roduction fell from $22,000,000 to less than 
one-third that amount, but it soon began to increase again, and from 1850 to 
1860 it Avas as large as from 1795 to 1805. 

When the independence of Mexico was recognized and peace Avas restored, it 
Avas expected that the production would soon rise far beyond its former figure. 
The most brilliant hopes Avere excited in England, and they Avere based on 
many plausible considerations, but they Avere destined to bitter disappointment. 

3Iany of the best mines Avero offered for sale for about the amount Avhich they 
produced annually. They had been Avell opened ; their vakie had been proA^ed; 
they had been abandoned AA'hile in full production, with large l)odies of rich ore 
in sight ; some of them had not suffered much b}^ standing idle ; their produc- 
tion had been increased at the average rate of three per cent, annually for 40 
years before the revolution, and the Avorkmen familiar Avith all the processes 
of mining and reduction Avere still nmnerous. And if such production and 
increase occurred under the oppressive policy of the Spanish government, and 
under the ignorant management of the Spanish mine owners, Avliat might not 
be expected under a liberal republic and English engineering? The mines 
Avould no longer be ])urdened Avith the payment of one-tenth of the gross yield, 
over and above all the costs of refining and coining. The ore Avould no longer 
be carried up to the surface from depths of 1,500 or 2,000 feet on the backs of 
Indians, nor AA'ould it be packed 6, 10, or 20 miles on mules to the reduction 
Avorks, nor Avould the Avater be hoisted up in raw-hide buckets by horse whims, 
nor AA'ould mules and horses drive the arrastras and stamps. Steam Avould pump 
the Avater, hoist the ore, and drive the pulverizing machinery. Wagons would 
do the transportation. Skilful engineers Avould direct the cutting of adits, shafts, 
and Avorking levels, and educated metallurgists Avould have charge of the amal- 
gamation. The production should rise to $50,000,000 or $100,000,000 a year, 
and those companies which could get possession of the best mines should make 
princely fortunes for all their shareholders. Great care should be exercised in 
the purchase of the property ; only those mines should be bought Avhich had been 
visited by Humboldt in 1803, and Avere mentioned in his book, and AvereknoAvn 
to have continued productive up to the revolution. On these principles, it Avas 
supposed that failure Avould be impossible. But failure Avas possible, and it came. 
England dming the silver fever spent $50,000,000, for Avhich she got little retm-n 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 619 

save dear experience. Independence did not prove a great blessing to Mexico, 
Peace never came, and without peace tliere could be no success, for silver mining 
above all otlier pursuits demands peace. Forced loans were levied by the gov- 
ernment on the productive mines, and the silver bars Avhile on the way to the 
coast were taken by highway robbers. The steam machinery could not he taken 
to the mines till roads had been made and wagons imported ; the roads cost 
immense sums; when the engines were in place native engineers could not be 
found, and foreign engineers were murdered ; English superintendents and Mexi- 
can miners could not get along together ; the mines Avere found in a much worse 
condition than that in which they were at the time of sale represented to be ; and 
in a few years the mines of Mexico were, with a few exceptions, abandoned to 
the Mexicans. 

The most notable mining districts opened in the 19th century have been the 
placer district of San Francisco in Sonora, in 1803 ; the Melkowka placers in 
Siberia, in 1816 ; the silver district of Fresuillo, in 1824; the silver district of 
Chailarcillo, Chili, in 1832; the silver district of Guadalupe y Caloo, in 1834; 
the silver district of Guadalcanal, in Spain, about 1830 ; tlie placers of the Altai 
mountains, in Siberia, in 1830 ; the placers of the Sacramento basin, in 1841^ ; 
the placers of Australic% in 1851; the placers of Ncav Zealand, in 1857; the 
placers of British Columbia, in 1858 ; the placers of Colorado, in 1859 ; the sil- 
ver district of Washoe, in 1859; the Nevada iron pan amalgamation, in ISGO; 
the silver and gold of Idaho, in 1861 ; the placers of Montana, in 1862. 

■ Stock of Pkecious Metals. — The stock of coin in Christendom in 1492, 
and at various epochs since, may be thus estimated : 

Stock of gold and silver coin in Europe in 1492 $170, 000 000 

Production of 108 years, less loss by wear $C90, 000, 000 

Usediuarts $140,000,000 

Sent to Asia 70, 000, 000 

Deductions 210,000,000 

Net gain from 1492 to 1600 480, 000, 000 

Stock at end of 1600 650,000,000 

Production of the XVIIth century - 1 , 687, 000, 000 

Sent to Asia 1G5, 000, 000 

Used in the arts 300,000,000 

Abrasion and loss 385,000,000 

Deductions for the XVIIth century 850, 000, 000 

Net gain of the XVIIth century 837, 000, 000 

Stock at end of 1700 1,487,000,000 

Production of the XVIIIth century 4, 000, 000, 000 

Sent to Asia 400, 000, 000 

Used in the arts 800,000,000 

Wearandloss 600,000,000 

Total deductions for XVIIIth century 1 , 800, 000, 000 

Net gain of XVIIIth century 2, 200, 000, 000 

Stock at end of 1800 3,687,000,000 

Production of 1st quarter XlXth century 750, 000, 000 

AVear and loss 175, 000, 000 

Used in the arts 200,000,000 

Sent to Asia 125, 000, 000 

Deductions for 1st quarter XlXth century. . . 500, 000, 000 

Net gain of 1st quarter XlXth century 250, 000, 000 

Stock at end of 1 825 3, 937, 000, 000 

Production 2d quarter XlXth century 1 , 200, 000, 000 

Wearandloss 200,000,000 

Used in the arts 350, 000, 000 

Sent to Asia 175,000,000 

Deductions 2d quarter XlXth century 725, 000, 000 

Net gain 2d quarter XlXth century 475, 000, 000 



620 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Stock at end of 1850 $4, 412,000-, 000 

Production from 1851 to 1866, inclusive $2,500,000,000 

Wear and loss $250,000,000 

Used in ^tlie arts 500,000,000 

Sent to Asia 800, 000, 000 

Total dednictions for 16 years 1 , 750, 000, 000 

Net gain from 1851 to 1866 750,000,000 

Stock at end of 1866 5,162,000,000 

The following is Jacobs's estimate, as given in Vol. II, pp. 70, 131, 214, 
and 322: 

Stock on hand in 1492 £34,000,000 

Production 1493-1599 over loss and wear £138,000,000 

Used in the arts £28,000,000 

Sent to Asia 14, 000, 000 

Total deductions 1493-1599 42,000,000 

Net gain 1493-1599 96,000,000 

Stock on hand at the end of 1599 : 130, 000, 000 

Productions of X Vllth century 337, 500, 000 

Sent to Asia 32,250,000 

Used in the arts 60,250,000 

Wear and loss 77,000,000 

Total deduction for XVIIth century 170, 500, 000 

Net gain of XVIIth century 1 07, 000, 000 

Stock on hand at the end of 1699 297, 000, 000 

Production of 1700 to 1809 880,000,000 

Sent to Asia 352, 000, 000 

Used in the arts 352,000,000 

Wear and loss 93, 000, 000 

Total deductions 1700 to 1809 797,000,000 

Net gain from 1700 to 1809 83,000,000 

Stock on hand at end of 1809 380,000,000 

Production from 1810 to 1829 103,736,000 

Sent to Asia 40, 000, 000 

Used in the arts 112,252,220 

Wear and loss 18,095,220 

Total deductions from 1810 to 1829 170, 343, 440 

Decrease from J810 to 1829 : — 66,611,440 

Stock on hand at end of 1829 313,388,560 



It lias been customary to make estimates of tlie amomit of precious metals in 
Christendom at various times by deducting the quantity shipped to China and 
Hindostan, and the quantity used for plate ; but there is a constant change from 
coin to plate and from plate to coin, and the Avide line which once separated China 
and Hindostan from Em'opean trade has noAv disappeared, and those Asiatic 
countries are within the pale of civilized commerce, and are almost as near to 
London and New York as California and Victoria. 

Whitney, in his Metallic Wealth of the United States, says that in 1853 the Rus- 
sian empire produced 64,000 pounds Troy of gold; Austria, 5,700; the remainder 
of Europe, 100; Southern Asia, 25,000 ; Africa, 4,000; South America, 34,000; 
and the United States, (exclusive of California,) 2,200. 

The gold production of Chili in 1845 (the statistics for later years not being 
obtainable at the time) was 2,850 pounds Troy ; of Bolivia, 1,200 ; of Peru, 
1,900 ; of New Grenada, 13,300 ; of Brazil, 5,100; and of Mexico, 9,900. 

The yield of silver in 1850 is thus stated : 

Russian Empire, 60,000 pounds Troy ; Scandinavia, 20,400 ; Great Britain, 
48,500; Harz Silver District, 31,500 ; Prussia, 21,200; Saxony, 63,600; other 
German states, 2,500 ; Austria, 87,000 ; Spain, 125,000 ; France, 5,000 ; Aus- 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



621 



tralia, 10,000; Chili, 238,500; Bolivia, 130,000; Peru, 303,150; New Grenada,. 
13,000; Brazil, 675; Mexico, 1,050,000 ; Caliioniia, 17,400; total, 2,817,425 
pounds Troy. 

The Drain of Silver to Asia. — It is admitted by all eminent authors 
"wlio liave written about the present supply of the precious metal that it far 
exceeds the demands of Christendom, and that the inevitable fall in value is 
retarded only by exceptional and temporary circumstances, the chief of which is 
the remarkable stream of silver pouring into Asia. The Hindoos and Chinese 
and Japanese are industrious and very populous nations, v>'hich have to import 
nearly all their gold and silver from abroad, and their capacity to absorb those 
metals increases as value declines, and as their stock becomes greater their wao-es 
rise, and they obtain the means to purchase more foreign goods, and after a time 
they will have as much coin proportionately to their productive powers as the 
Christian nations; and then their imports of merchandise will nearly equal their 
exports, and the imjiortation of the precious metals will not be one-tenth of the 
present ligure. 

Asia was called ''the sink of silver" by Pliny, and it has deserved that name 
ever since, and will continue to deserve it for an uncertain period in the future. 

So long as we continue to consume so much tea, silk, sugar, rice, and other 
Asiatic products, and so long as they consume so few of our products, so long we 
must settle the difference by payment of the precious metals, and the precious 
metals will probably not decline much in value. But let the vessel of Asiatic 
trade, now half empty of silver, be once filled, as it Avill be in 5, 10, or 15 vears, 
and then we shall begin to feel the influence of the over-sujjply of the precious 
metals, and their market value will fall rapidly. 

Christendom and Asia may be compared to two tubs standing Bide by side, 
and connected by a large open tube half way from the ground, and the supply 
of the precious metals to a stream of water falling into the tub representing 
Christendom. Before the water reached the tube, or before the tube was well 
opened, the level rose very rapidly in the first tub ; but now the stream pours so 
swiftly into the second that the level can scarcely rise at all in the first. When 
the liquid gets up to the same level in both tubs, then it will rise with equal 
pace in both. 

The quantity of silver annually exported from England and the Mediterranean 
to Asia has been as follows : 





England. 


Mediterranean. 


Total. 


1851 


$8, 362, 500 
12,116,210 
23, 550, 000 
15,555,000 
32, 075, 000 
60, 590, 000 
86, 477, 170 
25, 444, 250 
33, 298, 120 
40, 620, 182 

36, 399, 175 
53, 551, 045 
38,236.191 

37, 079; 196 




$8, 362, SCO 
12 116 210 


1852 




1S53 


$4, 240, 000 

7, 255, 000 

7, 620, 000 

9, 950, 000 

10,180,291 

16, 150, 000 

7, 340, 280 

8, 120, 204 

7, 980, 000 

9,150,000 

29,281,000 

41, 255, 942 


27 790,000 


1854 


22, 821, 000 


1855 


39, 695, COO 
70, 540. 000 


1856 


1857 


96, 657, 461 
31, 594, 250 


1858 


1859 


40, 638, 400 


1860 


48, 740, 386 


1881 


44, 379, 175 


1863 


61, 701, 145 


1863 


07, 517, 191 


1864 


78, 335, 139 








503, 365, 035 


147, 522, 718 


650, 885, 753 







The figures from 18.51 to 1862, inclusive, in the .ibove table are copied from Hunt's Mer- 
chants' Magazine for August, 1863, and those for 1863 and 1864 from newspaper reports. 

Michel Chevalier savs that in 1857 <:£20,145,921 were sent to Asia, or about 
$100,000,000.* 

* Michel Chevalier on Gold, p. 65. 



622 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

The "Westminster Review for January, 1864, says : 

In spite of onr trouble in India, and a state of chronic warfare in China, the increase of 
our trade with the east during the last 10 years has been enormous. This, too, may be looked 
upon as only the beginning of a commerce that must grow to proportions which cannot be 
estimated. The most important feature, too, of eastern trade is the manner in which it 
absorbs the precious metals. This is a peculiarity so intimately bound up with the social 
condition of the east that it is likely to last as long as their ignorance and mutual mistrust. 
Until a system of credit can grow up among them like that which in Europe dispenses with 
the use of gold and silver for almost all things but retail transactions and the payment of 
labor, the east must ever remain a perfect sink for the precious metals. What amount of 
money would be sufficient to saturate the hoarding jjropensities of these hundreds of millions 
of men v/ho believe in nothing but the little store they know of under some hearthstone or 
other favorite hiding place ? There is no practical limit to the demand of the east for the 
precious metals except the industry they can develop in its acquisition, and that industry is 
susceptible of indefinite development. 

This passage is written in tlie supposition tliat a nation jjossessing an immense 
quantity of tlie precious metals in proportion to population could be a nation of 
hoarders. This idea, however, is entirely erroneous. There never was, nor is 
it probable that there ever will be a wealthy nation of hoarders. With the 
exception of a few miserly individuals, hoarding is caused only by the lack of 
opportunities to invest profitably ; the insecurity of titles to real estate, and the 
dangers of famine and war. Hoarding is far more frequent relatively in semi- 
barbarous than in civilized communities; more frequent in the country than in 
cities. As wealth increases, as education extends, as Avars become rare, and as 
the titles to property become secure, the motives for hoarding cease. Hoarding 
is no doubt common now in Hindostan and China; but the main demand there 
for the precious metals is not for hoarding, it is for currency. We ship treasure 
to Asia because, on account of the greater scarcity of the precious metals, labor 
is cheaper, and because for that reason tea, cotton, rice, silk, and many other 
articles can be produced cheaper there than here, and we find it nrore profitable 
to import than to produce at home. But the Hindoos and Chinese having far 
less trade and manufactures relatively than Euro];)eans, do not need so much 
coin relatively, and the increase of the precious metals is ten-fold faster among 
them than the increase of business; so wages must rise, and their products must 
become dearer, and our gold and silver will have less relative value to them, 
and otlier of our productions will have more relative value. Then our interna- 
tional trade will be more of exchange than now, and less of sale. Asia will 
always be a sink of the precious metals in so far as immense quantities must be 
lost, worn away and used in the arts amidst such vast multitudes of peoj)le, and 
as the consumption is great and the yield nothing, there must be a steady 
stream pouring in ; but this stream after the level of industry has once been 
reached will be much smaller relatively than now. 

The countries where labor is dearest must export treasure to those where it is 
cheaper, and the quantity of treasure that a nation Avill swallow up is propor- 
tioned to its industry and poverty. 

Another late writer says : 

Regarding the amount of gold and silver afloat as currency in the various countries of the 
civilized world there are very conflicting opinions, but estimating the amount of gold and 
silver circulating as coin in Great Britain, the country in which perhaps the greatest economy 
of the precious metals consistent with the maintenance of the proper safeguards is observed, 
at £80,000,000, and the population at 30,000,000, and estimatiug the currency of India in 
1857 at an equal amount, an estimate I venture to think high, and the population at 
180,000,000, it requires but very little calculation to show that India is capable of yet absorb- 
ing silver to the amount of $-100,000,000 in addition to this amount for the purposes of cur- 
rency alone. Nor must it be forgotten that India is able to support a population many 
millions more numerous than she at present possesses ; nor on the otherhand that England has 
many means of economizing the use of coin, which in consequence of her immense extent of 
area will be denied to India, if not forever, for many years to come. If, then, it be admitted 
that there is even a shadow of truth iuthese estimates, it may not be unreasonai)le to conclude 
that there is a possibility, distant it may bo, yet still a possibility, of the requirements of 
India for currency purposes approaching the enormous sum of §500,000,000 in silver coin.* 

* The Drcoin of Silver to the East and the Currency of India, by W. Nassau Lees : London, 1864. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. bZd 

It is useless to attempt to say how much cmTcncy a nation may use. The 
amount depends greatly upon its relative value. In an age Avhen a day's work 
is worth 10 cents, only one-tenth as many dollars will be needed for cuiTency, 
other things being equal, as in an age when a day's work is worth a dollar. 
Wages in India will not remain at their present low rate, and their rise will, in 
itself, make a demand for money. We may presume that an addition of 
$2,000,000,000 to the cuiTcncy of Hindostan would raise wages there to the 
level in Europe, and after that importation of silver Avould be only sufficient to 
compensate fov the wear and tear. However, long before that amount could 
be added to the currency of India, the Hindoos would demand more European 
goods than now, and these would pay to a certain extent for the goods exported 
from India, and the transfer of the precious metals would gradually decline. The 
larger the stock of money relatively, the higher the wages, and we may expect 
that when the sum of $4,000,000,000 is added to the currency of Asia, the wages 
then will be as high there as they now are in Europe ; but before that time the 
wages may have doubled in Europe. 

A Great Iitceease of Production Probable. — A great increase in the 
production of both gold and silver is probable. In California, Australia, and 
Siberia, gold mining is now conducted under many disadvantages. In the two 
former wages and interest are exceptionally high, and in all there is a lack of 
that thorough knowledge, and of those economical modes of working, which can 
only be adopted by a generation educated to the business, and devoted to it as 
a life-long occupation.* In Spain and Brazil, which were once very rich in 
gold, and would probably pay for hydraulic washing, there must be numerous 
quartz veins that are now untouched. 

These Avill be made productive. The Andes and the Altai will be explored 
Avith care, and hundreds of veins, as rich and large as those of Potosi and Guana- 
juato, "U'ill be found. Machinery v,-ill be improved, so that tunnels or adits large 
enough for wagons can be bored 20, 30, or 40 miles long through high moun- 
tains, so as to pay for purposes of travel, and at the same time any lodes that 
may exist in the chain will be opened to a depth far below anything now known 
in mining. The great lodes of the future will not be discovered by such acci- 
dents as those which revealed Potosi, Cerro Pasco, Sorabrerete, Chanarcillo and 
the best mines of Catorce. If veins like those could be found by chance, what 
will not the well-directed explorations of the future find'? It is scarcely to be 
doubted that a large tunnel commenced 1,500 feet above the sea level on the 
western slope of the Sien-a Nevadas at any point between latitude 30° and 40° 
would, in the course of 10 miles, run through a multitude of rich lodes. We 
have reason to believe that when the great mountains were formed, numerous 
large fissures running in some places for hundreds of miles were filled Vv'ith 
auriferous and argentiferous quartz, and we fail to find them, not because they 
are not there, but because they are covered with earth, and because the clamber- 
ing hunter, the benighted wanderer, or the charcoal burner does not pull up the bush 
or does not light the fire at the right spot. A tunnel running through the Andes 
commencing near Lima or Santiago would reveal wonders, and the progress 
of mechanical industry is so marvellous that we are justified in hoping, if not in 
expecting, to see immense tunnels 20 or 30 miles long cut through high moiintain 
ranges. 

Relative Value of Gold a:si> Silver. — It is impossible to ascertain now 
when or how the difference arose between the market values of the two metals.t 

* The bill introicluced by Mr. Stewart, of Nevada, providing for the . establishment of a 
national school of mines, is designed to remedy the present wasteful system of mining. 

t Mr. Albert Gallatin, in a letter to the Secretary of the Treasury (Ex. Doc, 1st sess. 28th 
Cong., p. 1071) on the relative value of gold and silver, says, under date of December 31, 
1829 : 

" The relative value of gold and silver bullion differs from that of gold and silver coins, 



624 KESOUKCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

It may be said that tliey are almost equally suitable for the pmposes of money. 
Gold has a higher specific gravity and is susceptible of a higher polish, but the 
difference in these respects is not great enough to cause a difference of 50 per 
cent, in value between them. There is reason to doubt whether the relative 
values were ever proportional to the relative supplies. We have no precise 
information about supplies before the beginning of the 16th century. At that 
time an ounce of gold was worth 11.4 ounces of silver. In the course of three 
centuries previous to 1800 the stock of the precious metals in Christendom had 
increased $5,800,000,000, of which two-thirds in value and 96 per cent, in weight 
was silver; so that if the value of the two metals had been proportionate to tlie 
supply, one ounce of gold ought to have been worth 30 of silver in 1800. Not- 
withstanding the immense production of silver in the 18th century, the relative 
value of the two metals was precisely the same in 1816 as in 1717; and not- 
withstanding the vastly greater relative production of gold since 1849, the rela- 
tive values have scarcely changed. We observe, too, that although gold is very 
scarce in India and Asia, it does not bear so high a price as in Europe. The 
mere fact that gold is worth 15 times as much per pound as silver makes a demand 
for it, because it is so much more convenient for use. 

Although the values have not been regulated strictly by the supplies, it is cer- 
tain that they have been afiected by them. In consequence of a great increase 
in the supply of gold during the life of Julius Osesar, an ounce from being worth 
17 ounces of silver fell to be worth only nine;* and in the last 300 years gold 
has risen, relatively, more than 30 per cent, in value. t 

Mr. E. B. Elliott, of Washington city, has kindly furnished the following data 
on this interesting subject. The annexed tabular statement has been prepared 
by him with great care, and differs in some respects from that of ttie Merchants' 
Magazine : 

Ratios of the market values of gold to silver, in Lon(lov,for the 70 years from 1760 to 1829, 

inclusive, and Ike 26 years from 1841 to 1866, inclusive — in all, 96 years. 
17C0 to 1789 (30 years) . ...14. 50 to 1^ 
1790 to 1809 (20 jeus) ....14.90 to 1 | 

1810 to 1819 (10 years) 15. 50 to 1 [ Piior to the opening of tlie gold mines of California 

1820 to 1829 (10 years) .... 15. 80 to 1 { and Australia. 

1830 to 1840(11 years) | 

1841 to 1848 (8 years) 15.83 to I J 

and is liable to greater fluctuations. Independent of these, there are two reasons which 
make gold bullion more valuable in relation to silver bullion than gold in relation to silver 
coins. It is more expensive to coin ten silver dollars than one gold eagle, which, if the 
charge for coining is the same for both, makes, in proportion, the silver coin more valuable, 
and the unavoidable difference between the legal and the actual standard of the most faithful 
coins, as well as the similar original diflerence of weight and the diminution arising from 
wear, are more sensible and greater in value in gold than in silver coins, so that the loss in 
melting the current gold coins of any country may be fairly estimated at one-half per cent." 

* Chevalier, page 1 18. 

t Hunt's Merchants' Magazine for August, 1863, contains the following table, showing the 
relative value of silver to gold at various periods from 1344 to 1863, as shown by the prices 
paid by the mint in London : 



1344 1 to 12. 475 

1349 1 to 11. 141 

1356 1 to 11.286 

1401 1 to 11.350 

1421 1 to 10.527 

1464 1 to 10.331 

1465 1 to 11.983 

1470 1 to 11.446 

1482 1 to 11.429 

1509 1 to 11.400 

1527 1 to 11.455 

1543 1 to 12.000 

1545 1 to 10.714 

1546 1 to 10. 000 



1547 1 to 11. 400 

1549 1 to 11.250 

1552 1 to 11.186 

1553 1 to 11. 198 

1560 1 to 11.315 

1600 1 to 11.100 

1004 1 to 12. 109 

1626 1 to 13.431 

1666 1 to 14.485 

1717 1 to 15.209 

1816 1 to 15. 209 

1849 1 to 15.632 

1852 1 to 15. 371 

1863 1 to 15.069 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



625 



Discovery of gold fields in California, 1843. 

1849 to 1852 (4 years) ]5.60 to J— Transition period. 

1853 to 1858 (6 years) 15.34 to I ^ 

1859 to 18G2 (4 years) 15. 34 to I l Since the opening of California and Australian gold 

1.863 to 1864 (2 years) 15. 37 to 1 ( fields, average 15.38 to 1. 

1865 to 1866 (2 years) 15. 4G to 1 J 

Simplest, and probably most convenient, mint ratio of gold to silver, 15 to 1 ; present 
United States mint ratio of gold to fractional silver, 14.83 to 1 ; United States mint ratio 
of gold to silver dollar, (circulation limited because overvalued,) 16 to 1: British mint ratio 
of gold to silver, 14.28 to 1 : French mint ratio, gold to silver 5-franc piece, (circulation lim- 
ited because undervalued,) 15.5 to 1 ; French mint ratio, gold to debased smaller silver coin- 
age, 14,38 to 1. 

The ratios since 1859 Avere deduced from tlie semi-raontlily quotations of the 
price per ounce of silver bars iu London, published from time to time in the 
journal of the Statistical Society of London. From 1841 to 1848 the values 
adopted were computed from data furnished by ^h'. Wm. Newmarch in a valuable 
paper read bj^ him before the London Statistical Society and published in tho 
journal of that society. From 1760 to 1829, inclusive, the values were taken 
from the Funding System of Mr. Jonathan Elliott, which forms part of the Exec- 
utive Documents of the second session of the 2Sth Congress. For the 11 years, 
1830 to 1840, inclusive, there is a lapse in the infonnation furnished ; but it is 
deemed sale to assume the ratio for this period as 15.8, the ratio of the periods 
just prior and subsequent to tho interv^al. 

It Avill be observed that with the discovery and working of the California and 
Australian gold fields the relative value of gold to silver fell from an average 
of 15^ for the eight years 1841-8, just prior to this event, to an average of 15§. 
for the 14 vears 1853-66, which followed the transition period of four years 
1849-'52. 

The ratios adopted for the purposes of coinage by the mints of the United 
States, Great Britain, and France, respectively, are herewith given. Comparison 
of the data indicates that the simplest ratio which could safely be adopted for 
the purposes of coinage at the mint is 15 to 1, a rate sensibly lower than the 
market ratio for at least 60 years, and destined, it v/ould seem from the present 
upward tendency of the value of gold as compared Avith the market value of 
silver, to remain so for years to come. The silver coins are thus, by the adop- 
tion of this simple ratio, overvalued, which is now the settled policy of the civ- 
ilized world, and if made legal tender only in payment of small sums, as is at 
present the case in the United States, in England, in France, or in many other 
countries, would circulate freely with our present standard gold coin — the latter, 
of course, being made legal tender in all amounts. 

The importation of silver from the silver-producing countries into Great Brit- 
ain, and the price per ounce for bar silver in London at various times since 184S, 
are shown in the folio wina^ table : 



Year. 



1848 
1849 
1850 
1851 
1852 
18.53 
1854 
1855 
1856 



17,337 

20, 486 
14,715 
16,304 
18, 848 
17,421 
16, 797 
14,868 
17,041 





Shillings 


ces. 


per lb. 




troy.* 


,226 


591 


,600 


r>9| 


,247 


60 


,403 


61 


,521 


60f 


,714 


61i 


,442 


GU 


,935 


611 


,761 


61f 



Year. 



1857. 
1858. 
1859. 
1860. 
1861. 
1862. 
1863. 
1866. 



Ounces. 



16, 
9, 
11, 
16, 
19, 
20, 



798, 163 
017,458 
909, 246 
624, 696 
954, 001 
828, 538 



Shillings 
per lb. 
troy,* 



6I4 

61f 

62-iV 

6Hi 

60i§ 

61i 
62 



40 



■ ijr. which is the same thing pence per ounce troy. 



G26 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

It was expected about 1853, wlicn the permanence of the Cnlifornian and 
Australian gold mines Avas no longer a matter of doubt, that the relative value 
of gold -would soon fall as much as it had risen in the sixteenth century, but this 
expectation has not been realized. It is impossible now to foresee or to form 
any cdnfident opinion whether gold will fall in value, as compared with silver, if 
the present relative production is maintained. Chevalier contended, in 1S57, 
that if it were not for the fact that France, since 1850, had been changing her 
cuiTcncy from silver to gold, the latter metal would have fallen greatly in value ; 
and he called France the parachute of gold.* From 1850 to 1857 the French 
mint coined $540,000,000 iu gold, or an'annual average of nearly $80,000,000, 
while for 45 jenrs previous to 1848 the annual coinage of gold had been only 
$4,450,000. His argument would seem to be that so soon as a gold cuiTcncy 
had been substituted in France, gold would fall, but since 1857 enough of that 
metal has been poured into Europe to supply nearly all the nations with gold, 
and still there is no noteworthy change iu relative value. 

There is such an immense demand for ornaments and table-ware made of the 
precious metals, that a long time must elapse before it can be supplied. We 
must expect, too, that at no distant time Asia will use gold extensively for cur- 
renc}^, and in fact it has already commenced to do so. We consider it entirely 
useless to endeavor to predict the relative value of gold ;ind silver in the future. 
The financial and commercial history of the world during the last ten jeaxs 
does not establish Chevalier's idea that gold as related to silver will soon com- 
mence to fall in proportion to the excess of its production. According to his 
theory the fall should have commenced already. In 10 years that have elapsed 
since he wrote $1,200,000,000 have been added to the possessions of Christen- 
dom, more than enough, if his estimates were correct, to overstock the market. 
But the market is not overstocked, as we know from the fact that the price is not 
materially changed. It is undeniable, however, that the market would soon be 
overstocked in Christendom if there were no outlet. Gold, except for purposes of 
small change, in sums less than two dollars and a half, is far more convenient 
than silver, and is preferred for most of the purposes of coin ; and that preference 
Avill extend to Hindostan and China so soon as we have no more silver to spare. 
We have now an excess of silver or we would not ship so much away, and so 
soon as we have no longer an excess, the European and American merchants in 
Asia will tell their customers that they must take gold in payment. The more 
intelligent Chinese see the great advantages of a currency of gold coin over a 
bartering for silver bars, so the more precious metal has already come into con- 
siderable use, and those Asiatics who have done business in California and Aus- 
tralia will help to make the change. If it could be proved that all the gold 
must be confined to Europe and America Avhile Asia should continue her demand 
for silver, then a great fall in the relative price of gold within a brief period 
would have to be admitted ; but that proof cannot be furnished. Some fluctua- 
tions have taken place iu the relative value of the two precious metals within 
the last ten years, but they are too slight to furnish a basis for conclusions of 
any importance. 

The coinage of all the nations fixes the comparative prices in such a manner 
that no change can occur without overcoming obstacles which did not exist 200 
years ago. Throughout Christendom the governments and the merchants say 
that one ounce of gold shall be worth 15 of silver; and to prevent any question 
about the precise relation, coins of both metals are in universal use with a con- 
ventional value. The value is conventional to a great degree ; we know that 
it does not bear any precise proportion to the supply. If the value is now con- 
ventional why should not the conventionality stand ? A change in such a mat- 
ter necessarily implies loss and inconvenience. The present relative prices of 

* Chevalier, pp. 59, 73. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 627 

the two metals ixre very well suited to the wants of commerce. We can pay 
large sums in gold without overloading a man ; we can pay small sums in sil- 
ver with coin jiot too small to be handled or carried in the pocket. It would he 
very inconvoiiient to have all our coin of equal value per pound, for then largo 
sums would be burdens, or small coin would be too small for our fingers. In 
fact two metals are hardly enough and so copper and brass have been used foi 
coinage by most civilized nations, in addition to the precious metals. Chevalier^ 
says, ''Nobody can say that some day silver may not also undergo a great fall, 
brought about by a production which should be distinguished by the two fol- 
lowing characteristics : Of being much greater in comparison with the employ- 
ments to which it had hitherto been applied, and of being produced under more 
favorable circumstances, that is at less cost per kilogramme for the metal 
obtained. There are strong reasons for thinking that if the United States 
annexed Mexico and penetrated further into the regions of Central Ameiica, 
this event would not be of tard}'- accomplishment under the auspices of a race 
so industrious and so enterprising as the Anglo-Saxons." 

How Individuals are Enriched by Mining. — The first effect of the pro- 
duction of the precious metals in rich mines is that it enriches the individual 
engaged in mining, or at least gives him an opportunity to enrich himself. A 
large proportion of mankind are so stupid, so imprudent, so wasteful, or so 
indifferent to the value of money, that they cannot make money when they 
have the best of chances, or keep it after they get it. The wages of miners are 
higher than those of other laborers, and when the mines are very rich the pro- 
piietors become possessed of immense sums. In the mining districts nearly 
every man when he goes out walking over the hills keeps a lookout for "indica- 
tions," in hope of finding some vein that may make him a millionaire. 

The poorest white laborer in California working by the month gets a dollar a 
day besides board, and as the French or German laborer in Europe receives less 
than 50 cents a day, the Californian can, with his earnings, hiie two Europeans 
to Avork for him, or he can purchase as much as two can produce, or he can 
afford to consume as much as two Em-opean laborers do. He wants their mer- 
chandise and they want his gold ; so he exchanges one of his days' work for 
two of theirs. In this way he may live rich, even if on account of his extrav- 
agant habits he does not die rich. But the disproportion between wages in Cal- 
ifornia and Europe is still greater in other occupations. The average pay of 
laborers and the average profits of business men in California are fi'om three to 
five as great as in continental Europe for labor or business of the same kind, 
and the difference represents a ten-fold profit. If it costs 75 cents per day to 
live, the man who gets one dollar per day can lay by capital twice as fast as 
' the man who makes only 87j cents. If the laborer of California had lived 
during the last 17 years with as little unnecessary expenditure as the laborer of 
Germany, there would scarcely be a man among the old residents without his 
thousands. 

How Nations are Enriched by Mining. — The second effect of the pro- 
duction of the precious metals is to enrich the nation which possesses the mines, 
or to give it an opportunity to enrich itself. Nearly all mining districts are 
poor, although they consume luxuries which can elsewhere be afforded only by 
the Avcahhiest. The finest silks and the most costly wines went to Virginia 
City during the great bonanza in 1862, and similar extravagance had been wit- 
nessed before at Potosi, Cerro Pasco, Guanajuato, and Zacatecas. The owner 
of a rich mine cannot dig out the pure, precious metal with a shovel unassisted ; 
he must employ a great number of laborers, and his money runs all through the 
community and stimulates every branch of industry. The whole nation feels 
rich, and it purchases for one day's work the productions on which other nations 

* Page 142. Sec also Chevalier's Political Economy, section III, chapter I and II. 



628 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 

have spent two day's. The gold and silver are sent abroad to purchase those 
things which can be made cheaper abroad where labor has not felt the stimulus. 

How THE Precious Metals Fall ts Value. — The third effect of the 
production of the precious metals in large quantities is that the prices of other 
articles generally are effected. We want gold and silver for coin and for use in 
the arts, and the smaller the supply relatively to the demand the higher the 
value. The experience of ancient as well as of modern times has proved this 
principle. After Alexander conquered Persia, and enriched Greece with the 
spoils of Asia, three times as much silver was required to pay for a day's work as 
liefore; and now it requires in average years six ounces of silver to purchase 
as much wheat in Europe as could be bought in 1490 for one ounce.* The cause 
of the change is the great relative increase in the supply of silver while there is 
no relative increase in the supply of Avhcat. The result of the great yield of the 
silver mines of Peru and Mexico in the 16th century was that between 1550 and 
1600 wheat trebled in price. The production of the 16th century was about 
S690,000,000, whereas, the production of $4,000,000,000 in the ISth century 
added only 50 per cent, to the price which wheat bore in 1600, but more than 
200 2)cr cent, of the jprice wMch it bore in 1500. 

When we compare ancient w-ith modern times we see that the rise in prices 
was very much greater relatively in Rome after she became mistress of the w'orld 
than it has been in modern Em'ope since the mines of America, Australia and 
Russia have yielded their treasures. The difference is owing partly to the fact 
that a large portion of the laborers in the Roman Empire AV'Cre slaves, and the 
number of those who used money and could possess plate Avas comparatively 
small, and civilization was confined W'ithin narrow limits. 

The decrease of prices was less in proportion to the production of the precious 
metals in the 17tli than in the 16th, and less in the 18th than in the 17th cen- 
tury, because business has increased with much greater rapidity in late times 
than before. Commerce, manufactures, and intelligent agriculture have grown 
wonderfully. Many branches of trade conducted mainly by barter several cen- 
turies ago are noAV managed exclusively Avith money. The laborers are all free, 
and each needs a stock of coin w ith Avhich to make purchases in case of necessity. 
The use of silver table Avare and of gold ornaments is very extensive, and large 
quantities of both gold and silver are used in various kinds of manufacture. The 
introduction of steam in mills, boats and cars has doubled the productive capacity 
of mankind, and far more than doubled the demand for money. The speed and 
cheap communication between all countries has added A^astly to the general 
Avealth, and has increased the demand for the representatiA^es of Avealth. The 
remotest parts of the Avorld are now brought to our doors, and China and Hin- 
dostan open their laps to receive our gold and silver and prevent it from falling 
in A'alue by becoming too abundant in our hands. One of the best indications 
of the increase of trade and the spread of civilization is the relative value of the 
precious metals, and we see that a net increase of $500,000,000, or an addition 
of 250 per cent, to the stock in the 16th century-, trebled prices in half a cen- 
tury, while a net increase of $5,300,000,000, or 900 per cent., since the year 
1600, has not trebled prices in the last 250 years. 

Ineluexce of Inceeased Productions on National Debts. — But Avhat- 
ever may be the relatiA'-e position of the tAvo metals, it is \'ery certain that the 
time is not far distant Avhen the price of the tAVO as compared Avith other products 
of human labor must fall. They are noAV increasing far more rapidly than is 
the demand for them, and at the present rate of increase they AA'ould soon have 
to begin to fall perceptibly. But the production Avill become much greater than 
it is. The vast improvements that have been made both in gold and silver 
mining Avithin the last 20 j^ears are applied to only a few mines ; and the rew'ard 



*CLevalier, p. 18. Jacobs, Vol. XL, pp. 71, 11:3, 216. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. fi29 

for those wlio introduce them into other parts of the world are so large and so 
certain that the intioduction cannot be delayed to any remote period. If all the 
argentiferous lodes of ]\Iexico, Peru and Bolivia, known to be rich, were worked 
with the machinery used at Washoe, their yield would really flood the world. 
The placers of Brazil, exhausted for the slow processes known a century ago, will 
yield treasure greater than they ever produced before. The hydraulic process 
is needed in Siberia, and in Africa, and in many placers as Avorked out. 

It may do very well in European monarchies, where it is considered a wise 
policy, to preserve Avealth in those families which have it now ; but in the United 
States om" customs and our laws favor the individual rather than the family. Wo 
have no nobility, no princely salaries for officials, no hereditary titles, no social 
reverence for blood, no primogeniture, no law of entail, no hampering of the 
sale of real estate, no restrictions of education to the wealthy, no exclusive gov- 
ernmental favor for the rich. We are accustomed to see the rich become poor, 
and the poor become rich ; and we are proud of our country because here the 
career is open to talent, Avhile in Europe it is, comparatively speaking, open only 
to hereditary wealth. Most of the rich men of Europe are the sons and grand- 
sons of rich men ; in the United States the rich men are mostly the sons and 
almost invariably the grand-sons of poor men. We are then not frightened to 
think that those families which hold large sums in government and other bonds 
shoidd be poorer in half a century than they now are or were thousands of years 
ago. New deposits of silver will be found, and the innumerable rich lodes in 
the Pacific slope of the United States, not j^et opened, will be worked with profit. 
The mining processes are now being studied by numerous learned and able men, 
and improvement after improvement will be made in the modes of reduction. 

The inevitable fall in the value of the precious metals will be a benefit to 
mankind generally. It will reduce the wealth of the rich, and the debts of 
nations. The dollar of debt which represents the day's v>'ork of a common 
laborer, will, before the end of the century, represent only four-fifths, perhaps 
only two-thirds of a day's work. Thus, national debts now existing will be 
reduced 20 or 33 per cent. — the interest as well as the principal. The decrease, 
however, will be so slow that it Avill scarcely be felt by any one person ; so the 
general public will be benefitted while individuals Avill lose little. 

Chevalier thinks that government should do all in its power to keep the 
relative value of a dollar at the present standard 5 bi;t it would be hard to find 
any good reason for such a policy. 

The amount of bonds outstanding to be paid by the United States for national, 
State, county, city, and railroad debts is not less than $5,000,000,000, and a 
reduction of 50 per cent, in that debt by a fall of 50 per cent, in the value of 
gold and silver, Avill be a vast benefit to the nation. Chevalier assumes that 
gold will fall, and he urges France to make silver the only legal tender, so that 
loss to the bondholders and the gain to the government may be as little as 
possible. He says, " if both metals remain legal tender, as they then were in 
France, debtors will pay in whichever proves to be the least in value." While 
a change from the present policy in this country and in England, France and 
many other countries would seem to be of very doubtful expediency, it might 
be worthy of consideration, under certain contingencies, whether our government, 
looking at the matter from a different stand point, should not make both metals 
legal tender, so that the government should have the benefit of any change in 
relative value. 



630 EESOUKCES OF STATES AND TERRITOEIES 



FOREIGN STATES AND TERRITOPJES. 

LOWEE CALIFOENIA.* 

Geographical and Physical Features. — TLe peninsula of Lower California extends 
from the 23d to near the 32d degree of north latitude, about 775 miles iu a direct line, and 
varies iu width from about 35 miles in its narrowest part to more than twice that where it is 
widest. Bounded on one side by the Gulf of California and the Colorado river, and on the 
other by the Pacitic ocean, it lias a coast line pjreatcr in proportion than almost any tract of 
similar area in the world. Nor is this all ; owinoj to its extremely irregular outline, this 
coast is almost a succession of bays, harbors, and roadsteads, furnishing convenient depots 
for the numerous whalers who resort here. 

The general impression seems to have been that the whole peninsula was amass of rugged 
mountains, dry. barren, and desolate. This is by no means the case ; there are mountains, 
and a large part of the country is dry and desolate enough; but it has many redeeming 
features, and wherever water exists its fertility is astonishing. That portion lying south of 
La Paz is by far the roughest, has the highest and most rugged mountains, the deepest val- 
leys, and is in all respects the most picturesque. The San Lazaro chain starts as low hills 
near Cape San Lucas, and running north and northeast, culminating iu the peak of San 
Lazaro, perhaps 5,000 feet high, falls near Triunfo to not much more than 1,000 feet, and 
continuing northeast again, rises in the high and frowning masses of the Cacachilas, making 
a most imposing background to the beautiful town of La Paz, as seen from the bay. Small 
spurs run out from the San Lazaro chain down to the west coast, while eastward spurs and 
nearly parallel chains fill iu the whole area to the eastern coast. Beautiful valleys nestle 
among these mountains. The valley of San Jos6 del Cabo runs northward, east of the high 
mountains, about 20 miles in length, much of it iu a high state of cultivation, and with 
much more that could be easily rendered arable at tritling expense. Other valleys, smaller 
in size but similar in most respects, occur, scattered here and there, and even on the summit 
of the high spur known as the Sierra de la Victoria is said to be a long chain of little val- 
leys with the richest soil, finest of grass, a superabundance of clear, sweet mountain water, 
and bordered by groves and forests of oaks and pines. North of this granite mass, and 
extending with some trifling breaks to Sta. Gertrudi's or San Borja, lies a l3elt of table moun- 
tains of sandstones. These almost everywhere commence on the west coast as broad plains, 
rising towards the northeast so gradually that, were it not for their being cut by innumerable 
canons which show their steadily increasing height, one might still believe himself to be but 
a few feet above the ocean. 

The regular elevation of the tables continues to within a few miles of the gulf, where a 
sudden descent cuts them off with a fixce so precipitous that, except in a very tew places, it 
is impossible to iind a pass by which to reach the coast. Seen from the west side, the moun- 
tains look like a sea of flat tables, barren and covered with loose stones ; while from the 
eastern face they are steep, rugged, and so serrated as to lose entirely their tabular form. On 

-■ Exploration of Lower California. — Au important and iiiterestiup: scientific reeoiinoissanee of the 
peninsula of Lo^'cr California y^'as made last year, under tlic direction of Mr. J. Eoss Uro^^'nc, who organ- 
ized a party in San Francisco, consisting of "Mr. Wm. M. Galib, of the State Geological Survey ; Dr. l'\ 
Von Lolir, of the School of Mines of Freiberg, and a corps of assistants. The results of the expedition 
have not yet been published. Mr. Urowno and his party landed at Capo St. Lucas, from which point they 
proceeded by the eoust trail to Sau Jose del Cabo ; thence through the vaUey of the same name to the 
miuing district of Triunfo, near the town of Sau Antonio. Here they spent several days examining the 
mines ; after -whieh they ^-isited La Paz and Pichiluigue, on the Gulf of C^ilifornia. At La Paz they liad an 
interview ■\\ith Governor Pedrin on the subject of the proposed colonization of the Territory by Americans. 
The general feeling of the people on that subject seemed to be favorable; but no encouragement T\'as given 
to the project by the officers of the Mexican government then in power. Judge Galvan, who has since 
become governor of Lower California, is not considered inimical to American occupation ; and the proba- 
bility is, he will use his influence to promote the settlement and development of the Ten-itory, should he bo 
peiinittcd to remain in power, which is questionaljle. On returning to Triunfo, Mr. Browne and his party 
procured au outfit of pack-mules and saddle-animals, and crossed the peninsula to the bay of Todos Santos. 
From tliat point they made a dreary journey up the coast to the bay of Magdalena. "Water is scarce along 
tlic trail, and the country presents but few attractions, having an almost uninterrupted desert of sand and 
j-ocky masses, sparsely covered -n'ith cactus and thorny shrubs. At Salado, au isolated water-hole, seven 
miles from Magdalena, the party encamped to recruit their animals. Several days were spent in visiting 
the neighljoring shores of l^Iagdalena, but no water was found nearer than Salado, and the whole comitry 
seemed to l)e without resources. Two whale-ships lay at anchor, from Avhich Ml'. Browne procured a boat 
and crew to make an exploration of the bay. Dividing his party, ho started the main branch of the expe- 
dition across to Loreto, and thence, as experience and the object "of the reeonnoissance might suggest, north- 
ward through the iieninsula to San Diego. Having made a carefid examination of the bay of Magdalena 
and its shores, and gathered material for an interesting report, Mi-. Browne crossed the peninsula again, via 
Sau llilario, to La Paz, where he remained a short time, revisiting Pichiluigue and the Triuufo. Eeturning 
theuee to Cape St. Lucas, he crossed the gulf to Mazatlan, and from that point olitained passage in tlie gov- 
ernment steamer Suawnee to San Francisco. His forthcoming ofheial report on the mineral resources of the 
States and Territories West of the lioeky Mountains contains" a very interesting and valuable contribution 
on the geology of the country, fi-om the "pen of Mr. Gabb, who, witli his pai'ty, crossed the peninsula ten 
times, making the entire trip" from Cape St. Lucas to Sau Diego on mule-back. As this is the first and only 
scientific reeonnoissance ever made of the peninsida of Lower California, the account from Mr. Gabb wUl bo 
found of great interest and value. (American Joui-ual of Mining.) 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 631 

this side, and adjoining the coast, are some good littlo valleys ; south of Loreto, for per 
haps 20 miles, is a tract of level land bordering the coast, and often a couple of miles wide, 
most of it covered with a fertile soil. Further north, at San Bruno, at San Juan, and again 
south of Moleje, are broad valleys forming bays in the hills, from three to ten square leagues 
in area, and all excellent land, only reqiiiring water to be brought to the surface to reader 
them valuable. On the west side, adjoining the Pacilic, is a plain from near Todos Santos to 
the mouth of the arroyo of Purissima, about 150 to 200 miles in length, and with an average 
width of perhaps 10 miles, more than half of which is covered with good fertile soil, but 
without water. In the various canons which cut the mesa lands, embouching on this plain, 
are little valleys of from a few acres to several square miles in extent, usually well watered, 
and some of them in a high state of cultivation. Further nor'fh, between the bays of Balle- 
nas and San Sebastian, the plains exist again, merging into mesas on the east, but separated 
from the sea by a range of granite mountains parallel with the coast, known as the Sta. 
Clara range. Still further north, these plains continue with occasional interruptions to Rosa- 
rita, where they are cut off by the rolling mountain masses reaching the west coast. These 
northern plains are, however, for the most part deserts, thougli a portion could perhaps be 
reclaimed. 

Near Moleje the eastern side of the range undergoes a change. The abrupt eastern face 
falls to some extent and retreats from the coast, the intervening space being filled with roll- 
ing hills or barren transverse ridges almost to Sta. Gertrudi's. In this space is the high vol- 
canic mass of Las Virgines, nearly 4,000 feet high, and running westward from it to near 
San Iguacio is a succession of irregular peaks and ridges of volcanic origin. 

By the time the traveller has gone a day's journey north of Sta. Gertrudi's ho will observe 
a change coming in the form of the mountains. The heavj' sandstone beds that formed the 
mesas begin to thin out, only cropping some of the higher hills, the others being peaks, 
ridges, and spurs of granite with the irregularity of outline which usually characterizes that 
rock. This transitionary state continues for the next hundred miles, to San Borja, beyond 
which the range on the east side splits, sending off a branch of low hills to the northwest, 
the main chain continuing along the cast coast. This latter chain continues, high, rough, 
and forbidding, to Santa Maria, beyond which it extends as a low range of lava-capped 
granite hills of constantly diminishing altitude, until it is lost in the desert of the north- 
east. In the mean time, the spur which started from San Borjaas a chain of partially isolated 
hills becomes more marked near the coast, and after passing San Andres it assumes very 
respectable proportions, growing larger and higher, entirely occupying half the width of the 
peninsula and connecting with the coast ranges of Upper California. East of this, and north 
of Santa Maria, the country is represented to be mostly a sandy desert, with a few fertile 
spots. Scattered through the western foot-hills, and along the flanks of the range bordering 
the Pacific, are many beautiful and fertile valleys, which will be mentioned more in detail 
further on. 

The water-courses of the country are hardly worthy of a separate mention. Of rivers, 
properly speaking, there are none. The largest streams are but a few feet in width, except 
some few in the extreme northern portion, adjoining Upper California. In the valley of San 
Jose del Cabo is a little rivulet, fed by the springs in the granite ranges, and furnishing an 
abundant and steady supply of water for irrigating purposes. A smaller but equally steady 
stream is found at Todos Santos, and is the means of keeping up the prosperity of the 
place. Similar permanent streams exist at Comondo, Purissima, San Ignacio, and else- 
where, and by supplying moisture to the soil, enable these places to support a comparatively 
*}ensc population. These streams invariably sink on reaching the plains, and are lost to the 
surface, though the water could be regained by shallow wells or carried on the surface by 
ditches, thereby much increasing their usefulness. This latter plan was successfully fol- 
lowed by the missionaries in several instances, the most valuable of which is at the deserted 
mission of Guadalupe, where the water of San Jose creek was secured above the sink and 
carried several miles in a ditch or canal, the dilapidated ruins of which still exist. At Rosario, 
San Ramon, Guadalupe, and Fia Juana are streams, one or tv/o of which would be called 
rivers in Upper California ; that at San Ramon and the Rio Fia Juana carrying as much water 
as Los Angeles river, if not more. Besides the above there are many smaller streams, flow- 
ing perennially in the canons, along a part or the whole of the courses, which I have not 
deemed worthy of special mention. 

Adjoining or lying a little distance from the coast are numerous islands, several of which 
are from 20 to 50 miles in length. In the gulf the largest is that of the Angel de la Guarda, 
or the Guardian Angel, said to be rich in minerals, but very rocky and desolate. _ Further 
south, below Loreto, is the long, narrow island, noted for its salt, called Carmin island. 
Still further south, near La Paz, are the three islands known as San Josef, Espiritu Santo, 
and Cerralbo. On the west coast we have, among many others, the large island of Margarita, 
forming one side of Magdalena bay ; and lying oft the coast, opposite the bay of San Sebas- 
tian, is the large island of Cerros, or Cedros, claimed to be rich in copper, and famed for its 
wild goats. Most of these islands are very rough and inhospitable, and entirely unsuited 
for either farming or grazing purposes. 

As before mentioned, the whole coast line might be said to be nearly a succession of har- 
bors. Most of these are, of course, small, shallow, partially exposed, or have some other 



632 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

drawbacks, but several will compare well with any other ports on the west coast. Perhaps 
the finest is the bay of Mafjdalena. This bay, in the neighborhood of 100 miles from Capo 
San Lucas on the Pacific side, is about 50 miles in length and, in places, several miles wide. 
It communicates with the ocean by two entrances, one at each end of Margarita island, and 
is well protected to the seaward by the same island. Its importance as a naval station for 
our vessels cannot be overrated, and if our government does irot secure it for this purpose, 
some European nation will bo very apt to make an effort to obtain it so soon as its value 
f- shall become known. Should any colony of foreigners ever settle in Lower California, it 
^ will probably be placed on tJie plains bordering the long northern arm of the bay, where the 
soil is extremely fertile, and an abundance of water can be obtained from shallow wells. 
Nearly opposite to Magdalena bay is the harbor of La Paz, a fine bay, well protected from 
all Vifinds, except the fearful hurricanes or " temporales " which blow in the months of Sep- 
tember and October, and come from such a quarter as to blow directly up the bay. Eight or 
nine miles down the bay from the town is a sheltered nook, called Pichilingue, used by the 
United States war vessel on this station as a coaling statiou. Here vessels are safely protected 
on all sides. Half way up the west coast are two large bays — Ballenas, opening towards the 
southwest, and San Sebastian Viscaino, opening towards the northwest. Into the former emp- 
ties the San Ignacio lagoon, and into the latter Scammon's lagoon. These lagoons are two 
land-locked bays, with comparatively narrow entrances, and much frequented by whalers. 
They are said to have many shoals, though the channels are sufficiently deep for large ves- 
sels. It would be useless, in the present connection, to mention in detail the numberless 
other ports on the two coasts. Suffice it to say that there arc many used by the regular 
coasting trade, such as the Puerto Escondido, the harbors of Loreto, Moeje, Sta. Maria, Sta. 
Domingo, andmany others. 

There is still another item perhaps worthy of notice under this head. Several railroad 
routes across northern Mexico have been canvassed. Most of these have been spoken of as 
having their wet.tern terminus from Mazatlan northward. Should such an enterprise ever be 
carried to a successful termination, a short cut across the peninsula would be of value to 
shorten the distance around the cape. Several possible routes exist, all of which, with one 
exception, would be required to pass through Purissima or San Ignacio. From the port of 
San Bruno, or the neighboring one of San Juan, it is claimed that there is a low pass to the 
head of the Purissima arroyo. I did not visit this ; but if a road could be led into the head 
of the Purissima arroyo it could then reach the west coast at, say the port of San Juanico, 
without farther engineering difficulties. From the port of Santa Inez or San Marcos, above 
Moleje, an easy route exists up the arroyo of Sta. Aguida to the base of the main chain. 
Here a mountain, about 600 feet above the valley, has to be surmounted or tirnnelled toreach 
the arroyo of San Ignacio. Another way to rt'ach San Ignacio is perhaps easier, however. 

From the port of Sta. Maria, north of the volcano of the Virgins, there is no obstruction, 
following the arroyo of Sta. Maria until we reach the pass of the Inferno. Here a tunnel of^ 
about a mile in length would carry the road to the mesa above San Ignacio, having a gentle 
grade to the San Ignacio lagoon. The easiest route, however, is from the port of San Luis 
by way of the arroyo of Calaumjuit, past the old mission of that name, to the mesa of Sta. 
Ana, along this mesa to the valley of San Andres, and down this valley and the arroyo of 
San Andres to the coast. Along the whole line there will be no tunnelling required ; nature 
has already made the deep cuts, and there is not a stream to cross. An almost continuous 
plain extends from coast to coast, without a greater rise anywhere than 30 feet. 

Gk.ology. — The three geographical divisions into which I have separated the peninsula 
are dependent for their peculiar features on their geological structure. The rough mountains 
of the south are almost wholly granitic, the table lands of the middle are made up of nearly 
horizontal sandstones and volcanic rocks, while the luore nortlieru portions combine the 
ragged and irregularly-disposed ridges of the south with occasional flat-topped mountains, 
capped by rodvs of sedimentary or eruptive origin. 

All of the higher ridges of the southern extremity of the Territory are made up of granites 
and sienites, and formed, during the deposition of the heavy bedded mesa sandstones, an 
island of considerable height and very irregular outline. The structure of these mountains 
is so simple that a further description is unnecessary. It is not until within half a mile 
south of the mining town of San Antonio that any change in the geology occurs. Here 
mica slate is encountered for the first time, and forms a belt several miles wide, and running 
from Todos Santos, on the southwest, past San Antonio and Triunfo, northeast. It prob- 
ably extends into the Cacachilas range, and forms there, as at the other mining districts, 
the country rock of the metalliferous veins. Beyond the mica slate again, on the road 
between Triunfo and La Paz, granite is encountered, making the face of the range and 
extending to near the latter town. 

In all of the valleys scattered through these mountains, and in some of the lone hills on 
the east side of the peninsula, are sedmientary formations of a comparatively late geological 
age. At Santiago I was informed that three miles northeast of that place is a locality where 
large fossil oysters occur in great abundance, and that they are collected and burnt for lime. 
I had no opportunity of visiting the locality, a circirmstauce which I have regretted ever 
since. A short distance further northeast, near the coast, at a rancho called Los Martyres, 
is a high hill of sandstones, without fossils, dipping to the westward at an angle of about 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 633 

15°. From its general appearance it is, in all probability, of the same age as the sandstones 
which make up the mesas above La Paz. In none of these sandstones have I ever succeeded 
in linding fossils by which to obtain a clue to their geological age. They probably, however, 
belong to the same group as the Miocene sandstones of Upper California. They have in 
many respects the same lithological charactci\s, and bear the same relations to the granites 
that those rocks hold where we have had an opportrrnity of proving their age. Besides this 
very doubtful testimony, there is still another item of evidence which, in the absence of any 
better, should have some weight. Mr. John Xantus, an able collector, sent from Cape San 
Lucas to the Academy of Natural Sciences, of Philadelphia, a few fossil oysters, which, if 
my memory does not deceive me, belong to a species very characteristic of the Upper Cali- 
fornian Miocene — O. titan, Conrad. Should I be correct, this is important, tliough half a 
dozen years is a long interval, particularly if one had nevei' devoted any especial attention 
to the specimens remembered. 

With so little evidence of their age, therefore, I have hesitated about pronouncing a decided 
opinion, preferring to leave it an open question, trusting that some future explorer will bo 
more lucky than myself, and discover fossils from which these rocks can be assigned to their 
proper place in the geological scale. In consequence of the difficulty I have adopted the 
provisional name of mesa sandstone in speaking of the formation. 

In addition to this sandstone, which will probably be found to have a considerable devel- 
opment along the gulf side below La Paz, there is an extensive deposit of horizontal gravels 
hlling or bo'rdcriug all of the valleys, sometimes making, in part or in whole, the division 
between them, and lying unconformably on the upturned sandstones, as at the Martyres. 
This gravel formation is evidently the most modern deposit in the country, perhaps newer 
than the recognized post pliocene beds, which will be described further on. It is usually 
made up of debris of the underlying granite, but in some places contains boulders of a por- 
phyry closely resembling some which we encountered several hundred miles further north, 
overlying post pliocene strata. This porphyry is most abundant in the vicinity of the Mar- 
tyres, and from there northward. In a few places the gravel is replaced by a fine grairia 
sandstone, and is occasionally, though rarely, disturbed, as at the Cuevas, where it tilted 
three or four degrees. Almost everywhere this formation takes on the form of level terraces, 
though often very much cut up by dry guUcys. At Sta. Anita and at Santiago, where they 
are best developed, these terraces are about (50 feet high and well defined. Ihey also exist 
at Todos Santos, and northward along the coast for many miles. AtTodos Santos the main 
terrace is about GO feet in height, but there is also another in the arroyo of about half the 
height. The latter is limited in extent and seems to be very local. Going northward the 
elQvation diminishes until at last the tabular character is entirely lost. On the northern bor- 
der of the mountains, approaching La Paz from the south, are encountered for tho first time 
volcanic rocks in place. These form hills of from 500 to 700 feet high, of volcanic ash over- 
laid by beds of compact porphyries and trachytes. The rocks are pretty regularly stratified 
and mostly dip to the west and northwest, though northeast of La Paz tlie disturbance is 
general, and tho dip in every direction. The ash is to some extent quarried for building 
purposes, and the new church or cathedral now in process of construction is being built of 
this material. 

After leaving the granitic ranges south of La Paz the whole appearance of the country 
changes, and with it the geological structure. The granite itself has disappeared, only to 
show itself as one or two insignificant outliers, and in its place come enormous deposits of 
sandstones forming flat-topped mountains, ragged and precipitous along the east coast, but 
sloping, off so gradually towards the Pacific as to merge insensibly into the broad low plains 
of the west. Pretty regularly bordering the west coast and occurring occasionally along 
the gulf are deposits of post pliocene age, in places filled with and almost made up of the 
easts or shells of moUusca, still living in the adjoining waters. Penetrating both these foi-m- 
ations, and often capping one or the other or both indiscriminately, are deposits of volcanic 
origin. These volcanic rocks usually occur as dikes or broad superficial sheets which have 
been spread over the top of the mesa subsequent to the deposition of the post pliocene, and 
are by no means uniform either in thickness or in the manner of their distribution. Very 
few volcanic cones exist. Almost the only ones are the volcano of the Virgines, north of 
Moleje, and a series of cones and ridges extending westward to near San Ignacio. Else- 
where the eruptions appear to have taken place in the form of long fissures, forming dikes, 
which, having spread their surplus over the surrounding plains, have closed, never again to 
reopen. In this manner immense areas have been covered with caps of eruptive rocks often 
100 feet thick, the source of which is now eutirely hidden, an occasional hint only existing 
in the denuded section of some bluff where the dike has been cut through by the agency of 
running water. 

The post pliocene rocks usually lie on the lower margins of the mesa in such a_ manner as 
to show that they were deposited during the period of elevation of this portion of the penin- 
sula. The older mesa sandstones are usually soJittle disturbed that the two formations seem 
conformable, though sufficient evidence exists to prove that the elevating force had been 
acting for a long time before the oldest beds of the newer formation were deposited. This 
later series consists of fine grained argillaceous sandstones and shales, some coarser light 
gray sandstone, and lastly a thin bed, highly fossiliferous, as are also some of the earlier 



634 RESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

strata, but the latter highly calcareous. Where the series remains unbroken, this last stratum 
is always the highest, and it is nearly made up of the casts of living species of shells, Ostrca 
Cummingii being almost the only one retaining its structure. At Purissima, on the west 
slope, the mesa sandstones have been folded in a series of long and graceful undulations, 
the tops denuded to a nearly straight line, and the post jilioccno lies unconforniably capping 
the surface. On the opjiosite side of the mountains bordering the gulf there are still more 
marked instances of unconformability, -which will be described in their proper place. 

The mesa sandstones are easily distinguished from the overlying rocks by their coarser 
grain, greater compactness, and above all by their being highly metamorphosed along the 
greater part of their eastern margins. Another marked feature is the presence of large quan- 
tities of boulders and pebbles of volcanic rocks imbedded in them, sometimes to such an 
extent as to form even a preponderance of the bulk of some strata. These boulders are 
uniformly small and very much rounded near the west coast wherever the rock is encoun- 
tered, and increase in size towards the vicinity of Loreto, or rather towards that part of the 
coast a little below Loreto, in such a manner as to point unmistakably to this region for their 
origin. Not only does the size increase, but in the same ratio is the increase in number and 
the decrease in the amount of attrition to which they have been subjected. The lithological 
characters vary markedly from those of any eruptive rocks encountered in place on the penin- 
sula ; no similar rocks have been discovered between the mesa sandstones and the under- 
lying granite, and the only reasonable conclusion which can be arrived at is that they must 
have been derived from a body of laud which formerly lay in that region now occupied by 
the gulf, and somewhere in the vicinity of, or a little south of, Carmin island. 

Another striking feature of this region is the peculiar manner of the elevation of the mesa. 
It has not been lifted by an evenly distributed force ; not, like most mountain chains, bj' a 
folding along a given axis. The eastern side seems to have felt this force almost alone, the 
elevation of that portion lying to the west seeming to be due almost as much to the rigidity 
of the rocks as to the extension westward of the uptilting power. More properly speaking, 
the great force was exerted very nearly parallel with what is now the coast line of the gulf, 
and from there towards the Pacific this agency diminished so gradually as to produce no 
breaks or even foldings worthy of mention. We thus have the whole width of this portion 
of the peninsula tilted up by its edge from coast to coast, so that travelling eastward one 
can hardly realize the rise until, witliiu 15 or 20 miles of the east coast, he tinds himself on 
the verge of a precipitous descent of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet in height. This eastern escarp- 
ment extends from near La Paz to near Moleje, with but few interruptions, and exhibits 
nearly everywhere the projecting edges of nearly horizontal beds of sandstone, sometimes 
unaltered, but usually metamorphosed. During the imperfect examinations which our lim- 
ited time permitted us to make 1 was unable to determine whether this sudden cutting off of 
the otherwise undisturbed beds was due to a gigantic fault, or whether tlio eastern slope of 
an anticlinal axis had been carried away by denuding agencies. From what little we saw, 
strong arguments could be deduced in support of either hypothesis, but I prefer leaving the 
qr.estion an open one, content with having called the attention of future students to its solu- 
tion. It is certain, hovfover, that a well-marked axis, if not several, exists further north ; 
and even at the Sauce, near Loreto, the presence of a mass of granite at the base of the 
Sierra Gigantea, evidently exposed by denudation, seems to point to this agency as the means 
of solving the difficulty. 

On the west side the post pliocene strata form a strip extending from below Magdalena 
bay to near San Telmo, with but very few interruptions. The eastern margin of this belt is 
pretty clearly defined by the elevation of the mesa, rarely reaching but a few liundred feet 
above the level of the sea. It extends to the coast except along that portion lying between 
the bays of Ballenas and San Sebastian, where the granite range of Sta. Clara cuts it off. 
On the east side, near Loreto, it occurs as hills several hundred feet in height, uptilted at 
an angle, as high in parts as 5.5°, and dipping to the northeast. This disturbance appears 
to be due in a very great measure to the intrusion of a large mass of volcanic rocks, which 
separate the more modern formation from the mesa sandstones. The belt continues with 
slight interruptions to near the Sauce, where the post pliocene sandstones, very full of fossils, 
lie horizontally, abutting against the face of uptilted mesa sandstones, which are here highly 
metamorphic. 

Proceeding westward a mile or two, the older sandstones become horizontal, assuming this 
position by a gentle curve, their edges abutting against a mass of granite. Still further west, 
this granite mass is seen to underlie the undisturbed horizontal beds of the same sandstones, 
ivhich make the great mass of the mountain. Dykes of trachytes and porphyries cut alike 
the granite and sandstone, and in a beautifully exposed section on the face of the Gigantea, 
can be seen running entirely to the surface of the mountain, over whose flat top they have 
spread a rocky mantle, which extends almost to the plains of the Pacific. 

Space forbids mo to describe in detail all of the minuter features of the geology of the 
country. Suffice it here to say that except the retreating of the summit from the coast above 
Moleje, and the presence of the belt of volcanic cones from San Ignacio to the volcano of 
Las Virgines, there are no matters of special interest, until we reach Sta. Gertrudis, over 
70 miles above San Ignacio, and just west of the sunnnit of the range. Here a mass of 
granite appears in the bottom of an arroyo, very similar in character to that at the Sauce. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 635 

The overlying sandstones are not disturbed by it, but lie horizontaily over it, or abut ag^ainst 
the irregularities of its surface. Northward from Sta. Gertrudis the mesa sandstones almost 
disappear, except in the higher mountains to the east. In this refriou they seem to retain 
their former thickness, but little abated to near the bay of San Luis, wlaere very much 
metamorphosed, disturbed and uptilted, they gradually run out in a series of low ridges. 
Very soon after leaving Sta. Gertrudis, on the road to San Borja, these rocks thin out, cap- 
ping only a portion of the higher mountains, tlic great mass of the country being granite. 
The other stratified rocks, both post pliocene and volcanic, at times occupy similar posi 
tions, and sometimes the whole three are found in their regular sequence on the summit of 
the same hill. The volcanic, however, has been all of this time gaining ground, while the 
others are losing, and eventually at the Paraiso, and over the adjoining mesa, it is the only 
rock found capping the granite. At Trinidad and near Eosarito, below San Borja, a few 
outliers of post pliocene form hills 200 and 300 feet high, resting on granite, and usually 
capped by volcanic rocks. Again, at San Andres forming low, flat hills, underlying the 
valley of San Andres, and forming the broad plains of Sta. Ana, we have the post pliocene 
extremely developed and extending to and abutting against the highly uptilted mesa sand- 
stones at Calaumjuit. Bordering the northern edge of the mesa of Sta. Ana, and north 
of the bay of San Luis, extending almost from coast to coast is a mass of granite, which 
rises at Sta. Maria to a heiglit of about 3.000 ieet, and is here capped by thin beds of the 
same sandstones, which form the plain of Sta. Ana. In most cases this sandstone on the 
summit of tlie mountains is capped with a thin deposit of volcanic rocks. The same structure 
appears to continue northward, as well as we could determine at a distance, as far as the 
range could be seen. Going westward towards San Fernando the valleys were at first all 
scooped out in granite, the higher hills being formed at Sta. Maria; but by their steadily 
dii.-nnishing height, the post pliocene first, and eventually the volcanic rocks reached the 
plains, and the granite disappeared. Grassing the plains of Buena Vista, the road enters 
the mountains of the west side, near San Fernando, and we found the structure somewhat 
different from anything wo had encountered further south. The structure is essentially that 
of a broad granite core, flanked by stratified volcanic rocks, with many beds of ash, and not 
unfrequently uptilted at high angles. This is the case on both sides of the chain, and con- 
tinues to beyond San Diego. Westward, beyond the volcanic rocks, and adjoining the coast, 
is a broad belt of horizontal post pliocene beds, which, with occasional interruptions, extends 
to and even beyond San Diego, being cut off several times where the crystalline rocks reach 
the coast. We had no opportunity of examining the geology of the eastern side of the range, 
north of San Fernando, but I have no reason to suppose that any changes of importance 
take place in that region. From Eosario, where the road reaches the west coast, after passing 
through San Fernando, our route lay along the western flanic of the mountain, sometimes 
on the beach, sometimes across the late tertiary tables, and occasionally through the rocky 
foot-hills of the range. There was no important variation from the structure described 
above along the route, except at the salt ponds of San Quentin, where there is an isolated 
group of low hills, composed of a dark gray, cellular trachyte, much of it filled with rests 
of oliveno, and some parts having an obscure basaltiform tendency. These hills have 
no obvious connection with the main range, and the rocks of which they are composed are 
entirely diflerent from any rocks of i similar origin encountered elsewhere. 

Vauious Resources op the Teuritoky — Mining. — "Prospecting" has been carried 
on over the whole length and breadth of the country, but, on the whole, without very marked 
success. In the mica slate range of the south, valuable silver mines have been found, and 
in the frontiers a single mine of copper has been opened, which promises well. 

Of gold mines there have been many, but at the present time not one is being worked. In 
the granite hills near Cape San Lucas gold has been undoubtedly found, but it seems that 
the quantity was very small, and the locality is now forgotten. Further north, about San 
Antonio there has been some placer mining on a small scale. Women have washed the 
gravel of the arroyo in bateas or wooden bowls, obtaining a pittance per day, and the custom 
has been kept up during the rainy seasons from time immemorial. Some foreigners who 
desired to build a dam and wash out the arroyo at once, were refused permission by the 
authorities, on the ground that it would deprive the women of their time-honored privileges- 
In the granite mountains from Sta. Gertrudis to San Borja, and even in the metamorphic 
sandstones, almost as far south as San Ignacio, there are innumerable tunnels, shafts, and 
'coyote holes," where attempts have been made to find paying quartz mines. They are 
now, without exception, abandoned. In most cases the veins were found to bo unreliable, 
mere pockets or strings, and even in these the quantity of gold was not sufficient to pay for 
working. 

Similar attempts have been made to discover or develop silver mines. These are reported 
as existing about San Borja, on the island of the Guardian Angel, on the main land opposite 
this island, on the island of Margarita, and m numberless other places, none of which have 
ever yielded anything nor probably ever will. 

About 45 miles befow La Paz is the mining district of Triunfo and San Antonio. Here 
there are several veins known, only one or two of which have been sufficiently developed to 
form a positive opinion as to their value. Mining has been carried on on all of the veins 
since the time of the missionaries, but only for the purpose of obtaining the decomposed 



636 



EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



surface ores, which conld be araalgamated without roastinj^. The result of thiskiml of work 
has been to expose the veins along the greater part of their course by series of shallow pits 
Loney-combing the surface and rendering travelling across the hills rather perilous to a 
stranger. These ores (called ' ' azoque," or quicksilver metal, ) were worked in arrastras and 
amalgamated without difficulty, the silver existing in its metallic state, freed by decomposi- 
tion of the sulphurets. As soon as the excavations reached the unaltered ores of the deeper 
part of the vein, known as 'fire-metal," they were abandoned and new openings made. 
About 9 or 10 years ago, however, systematic work was undertaken, by a company from 
Mazatlan, on a couple of mines called the San Pedros and San Nicholas. They have a body 
of good ore varying from lb inches to three feet, mostly of excellent quality, and have been, 
for a number of years past, in the habit of shipping their first-class ore to Germany. The 
material shipped averages over $100 per ton of silver, and the expenses of mining, freight, 
and everything, up to the time of deliveiy in Freiberg, amounts to about $70. This is too 
much; the ore could be worked on the spot at a greatly diminished expense, and if the com- 
pany had their own mill they could work inferior ores, too poor for shipment, and which are 
now thrown away. The manner in which the mines are v/orked is execrable, the person in 
charge having hardly an idea of the first principles of mining engineering. 

On the same vein, three or four miles south, are the mines of the Triunfo Company. They 
possess four mines on this vein and three on another adjoining to and parallel with the first. 
Of these two have been well opened and are yielding the ore now being worked at the mill. 
The two are the Mendoceua and Molineiia. The former is on the summit of a ridge, and 
was first opened by an inclined sliaft or slope on the vein. The slope, rarely higher than 
20°, was, at the time of our visit, about .550 feet deep, with five levels running each way 
from 50 to 300 feet. The vein is from 8 to 15 feet wide, and throughout carries a body of 
ore averaging about, if not over, four feet. The lower 50 feet of the vein had a body nearer 
five than four feet. The ore does not lie in chimneys, but in a continuous sheet, extremely 
uniform both in thickness and quality. It is a compound of various sulphurets, in which 
antimony and lead predominate. From a series of carefully made assays, Mr. Lohr reports 
that the average ores, such as are being worked at the mill, contain from $90 to $124 per 
ton, while picked specimens assayed as high as $225. In the Mendoceua mine alone wo 
computed that there was ore enough exposed on the various levels to keep the present 24- 
stamp mill running for over five years, working 20 tons per day. Over 900 tons of ore were 
stacked at the mill waiting for reduction, and on entering the mine we could hardly tell 
whence it had been taken. Most of it had really been obtained while doing what is usually- 
counted " dead work" in the mine— sinking the slope and running the galleries. The Moll- 
ucna is on the same vein and adjoining the Mendoceua, talcing in the side of the hill. A 
tunnel was being run on the vein here, intended to strike the base of the slope of the Men- 
doceua and form its seventh level. By this means a large amount of hoisting will be avoided 
and all necessity for pumping obviated. The other mines of the companv are being opened 
slowly. One oil the adjoining vein has already yielded considerable ore, of a character differ- 
ent from the other vein. In it zinc predominates, and the ore is said to be much less refrac- 
tory than that from the Mendoceua. This company started with a 10-stamp mill, and having 
ascertained the proper method of working their ores, replaced it by one of 24 stamps, which 
was receiving the finishing touches as we started on our way northward. Since then the 
news has been perfectly satisfactory. The last two steamers have brought to San Francisco 
bullion to the value of upwards of S30,000, as the result of about six weeks' actual working 
of the ores. The company, in justice to itself, should at least double its mill capacity imme- 
diately. 

Besides these mines, which I have described somewhat in detail, because they are the only 
ones on which work was being actively prosecuted, there are many more on the same veins 
which have been partially developed, and show every evidence of value. Among these 
might be mentioned more particularly the Sta. ISIaria, the Soledad, and the Fortuna. In 
each of these are good bodies of ore, identical in character with the Mendoceua or the Mexi- 
can mines. I cannot here give a catalogue of all the mines which are known or supposed to 
be valuable ; suffice it to say that many others have been opened, and the time will doubtless 
come when they will be all thoroughly proven. Labor, wood, salt, and, in fact, all the acces- 
sories for the mining and reduction of silver ores, are cheaper here than in upper California 
or Nevada, and as soon as Lower California shall have fulfilled her manifest destiny a new 
era of life and activity must spring up here, and make this one of the most productive silver 
districts on the coast. 

Copper, like gold, is reported from nearly every part of the Territoiy; numberless mines 
have been opened and invariably abandoned. The Delphina mine is the only one that seems 
at all promising. This mine is in the northwestern part, between San Telmo and Sta. 
Tomas. The principal work is a shaft about 150 feet deep, which we did not examine, fear- 
ing the presence of gas at its bottom. There being nobody present who knew the mine, we 
did not feel inclined to run any risks. On the surface, however, there has also been consid- 
erable work, and the vein appears in a cut, over .50 feet deep, to be very well defined, with 
distinct walls and from five to seven feet wide. The ores, (of course surface ores, ) oxides, 
and carbonates are usually rich and abundant. Between 300 and 400 sacks are stacked at 
the mine ready for shipment, and I have been informed that several hundred sacks more of 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 637 

the same cliavacter are at San IsiJro, the shipping point, awaiting a rise in the market price 
of copper, so that the proprietors can sell without sacrifice. Of course it is impossible to 
prophesy the futme of a copper mine on the character of its surface ores, but it is claimed 
that, so far as the work has gone, the vein has not changed materially in character. 

Baser metals exist, also, in the Territory, but there has never been any active search made 
for them, and many a year must elapse before they can become valuable. Coal has been 
reported in a few places where it does not exist. It is said to be found near the Ojo de Lie- 
bre ; it may be that some ' ' brea " or asphaltum is found there and the two minerals confounded, 
a mistake that has often occurred in Upper California. 

Salt occurs in almost innumerable localities, but there are three spots which are noted both 
for the quantity and quality of the mineral there obtained. These are San Quentin. Ojo de 
Liebre, and Carmiu island, in the Gulf. We did not visit either of the latter places, but, 
contented ourselves with examining the ponds of San Quentin. These ponds or little lakes, 
half a dozen in number, vary in area from one to five acres. They are situated near the 
coast among a number of sand hills, and separated from the beach only by low ridges of 
.sand. They are quite shallow, and the salt crystallizes on the mud flats on their margins in 
flakes of half an inch or more in thickness. By a dexterous motion this salt is lifted, unsoiled 
from its soft bed, thrown into heaps, v.hence it is carried to the vessel. At present the place 
is abandoned. The royalty required by the Mexican government, the cost of collecting, 
hauling, and shipping, and the high United States tariff on imported salt, in the aggregate 
amount to so nearly the price of the material in San Francisco as to completely eat up all 
profits, and thus effectually close the only market to which this salt can be taken. 

Sulphur is found in moderate quantities near Moleje, and is said to be very abundant in 
the vicinity of the volcano of the Virgines. 

Gypsum, generally in its crystallized form of selenite, occurs in many places in the post- 
pliocene rocks, or weathered out from them and scattered over the soil. It also occurs near 
Moleje, but not in the enormous quantities which have been reported by interested parties. 

Agriculture.— The climate of Lower California is so mild that all the usually cultivated 
plants of both tropical and temperate countries grow side by side in the open fields. The 
lowest temperature we encountered in four of the coldest months of the year was 57° Fahren- 
lieit, and the winter averages from 05" to 70°, so far as our own experience went. Sev- 
eral species of palms are native, and the date grows wild, thoroughly acclimatized. Plan- 
tains and bananas, figs, oranges, olives, lemons, limes, pomegranates, peaches, and, in the 
northern parts, even apples grow and flourish, requiring but little care when first set out and 
none afterwards. Vineyards exist everywhere, and the native wine is infinitely superior in 
quality to that of Upper California. Fields of sugar-cane are too common to excite remark, 
and the manufacture of sugar is one of the most important interests of the southern part of 
the peninsula. Tobacco and cotton are cultivated in various places, especially in the valleys 
south of La Paz, and over more than half the Territory wild cotton is as common a weed as 
is the Jamestown weed {stramonium) at home. The castor bean grows wild, a perennial 
tree with a woody trunk, and melons are so abundant that during their season they make 
the greater part of the food of the people in some districts. 

The principal agricultural regions are as follows : The vicinity of San Jos6 del Cabo and 
along nearly the whole of the valley and its branches. Here wine, sugar, dried fruits, cot- 
ton, and tobacco are the principal products. The cane fields extend as far as the eye can 
reach irom San Jose, and there is still plenty of unoccupied land, only requiring the digging 
of ditches to render it available. This is necessary, as everyAvhere else in Lower and in 
many parts ot Upper California. On account of the rains being confined to the wet season, 
the dry season being literally so, vegetation requires artificial assistance. Santa Anita, \2 
miles up the valley from San Jose, is a lovely spot, connected with San Jose by an almost 
continuous line of gardens, and beyond it are ranches scattered along on every piece of bot- 
tom land, to the head of the valley. Santiago is a little group of houses surrounded by 
similar farms and gardens, a sugar-mill or two being engaged at the time of our visit in fin- 
ishing the v.-ork begun by the farmer. Miraflores, Las Palmas, Los Martyres, San Bnrtolo, 
and numberless other spots prove that wherever an acre or two of level land, or even hillside, 
can be irrigated, the yield is such as to make a farmer from the Atlantic States open his eyes 
in amazement. We Californians are so accustomed to large crops and to seeing nature on an 
exaggerated scale that we could bear it with a commendable degree of equanimity. About 
San Antonio are many pretty little patches of ground, which will one day be cultivated, as 
well as many spots on the road to and in the vicinity of La Paz. 

Todos Santo has a valley of one or two square miles, most of which is planted in canes, 
vineyards, and orchards, and every year yields a fine revenue to the owners. 

ilany little valleys and nooks exist among the granite mountains of the south, still unoc- 
cupied, and which will one day be brought into cultivation. 

On the west coast, bordering the northern part of the Bay of Magdalena, and the long 
arm which extends northward, are extensive plains, nearly level, rising insensibly to the 
east, and, in great part, covered with a rich soil. These plains, almost throughout, destitute 
of the scattered stones on the surface which render so much laud on the peninsula valueless, 
are covered with a dense vegetation, of which the larger species of the cactus make a great 
part. There is uo water on the surface, and this fact alone has prevented their settlement by 



638 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

anative population. Assoon, however, as land shall become valuable this "monte" or "brush" 
will bo cleared off, wells du(^, and nearly the whole tract will be cultivated. Water of good 
quality and unlimited in quantity can be obtained by shallow wells ; the sea breezes will 
supply the lifting power, and a population greater than can now be found from San Diego 
to the cape can hero, find comfortable homes and an abundant subsistence. South of Loreto 
is a similar but much smaller tract, which also, like the former, has an excellent harbor of its 
own. Among the table mountains are San Luis, Comondu, Purissima, San Ignacio, and a 
dozen smaller spots, some of which are in a high state of cultivation, while others are capable 
of it were there life enough in the people to inge them to it. Purissima alone ships a thou- 
sand cargoes of dried fruits annually, not to mention large quantities of wine and sugar. 

Comondu has several sugar-mills occupied the whole season, and the thousands of date 
and fig trees of San Ignacio fairly force their treasures into the hands of an indolent and 
worthless set of proprietors. The unappreciative and ignorant laziness of these miserable 
people is enough to keep a live man, passing through their country, in a healthy and almost 
chronic state of indignation. But one result can follow the American acquisition of Lower 
California — the indolent mongrel race forming its population must give way before the 
enlightened energy and restlessness of our own people, as it has done in Upper California and 
Texas ; and Anglo-American enterprise will, within a decade, render this Territory more val- 
uable than would Mexican laziness in a century. 

North of San Ignacio there is but little of value in an agricultural point of view until, hav- 
ing passed Santa Gertrudis and San Borja. we arrive at the broad and uninhabited valley 
of San Andres. This valley, with the adjoining plains of Santa Ana, should, perhaps, be 
rather classed with the grazing than the agricultural lands. The only water existing nat- 
urally on the surface is at the mouth of the valley, where there is a lake of brackish water 
more than half a mile long even in the dryest seasons. Animals drink it freely,and the grass 
in the valley seemed unlimited. From the position of the rocks it is certain that water could 
be obtained by wells, and usually, in localities like this, the well water is good even when 
that of the ponds is undrinkable. With wells and windmills several square miles of excellent 
land could be here brought under cultivation, while an almost unlimited quantity of stock 
could find pasture on the adjoining plains, or in the unoccupied portions of the valley. Fur- 
ther north are the plains of Buena Vista, in which there is no known water, but the remarks 
on San Andres will, with slight modification, be applicable here also. In the mountains 
adjoining these plains is the deserted mission of San Fernando. The traces of former culti- 
vation still exist, and a few hundred dollars would be sufficient to repair the irrigating appa- 
ratus, so as to bring over TOO acres of good land into cjDudition for planting. 

From San Fernando to the boundary most of the arable land is m the possession of private 
individuals, though some tracts still exist as public property, subject to denouncement, which 
are by no means to be despised. 

After passing St. Tomas we saw cereals growing without irrigations and with promise 
of excellent crops. Wheat, barley, and oats were noticed, the former with full, large heads 
and short stalks. Potatoes and apples, adjoining a grain field, on the Guadalupe ranch, 
reminded us of home, but looked incongruous, associated with olives and figs and overshad- 
owed by one or two tall and graceful fan palms. 

Grazing. — Lower California, as a whole, can never be very promising as a stock country. 
Except in the extreme northern portions, the thorny nature of the undergrowth must pre- 
vent the successful raising of sheep for wool purposes, though mutton sheep would succeed 
admirably were there a market for them. Horses, cattle and mules thrive. The common 
forage plant is the well-known "bunch grass " so common over the whole Pacific slope. It 
is not until after leaving San Borja that the alfalfa burr and other clovej^s, alfilerillo and other 
Upper Califvjrnia plants, acquire any importance. In the south, where severe droughts are 
not uncommon, and where, at times, the grass disappears entirely, stock does not suffer. 
Here tall animals fare the best. Several trees of the acacia family, which never suffer from 
drought, which grow everywhere, and on which animals feed with avidity, these take the 
place of the ordinary pasture. The principal of these are the mesquite and lipna. We camped 
repeatedly where there was hardly a blade of grass in sight, and yet our mules had all the 
feed they wanted. 

The high mesa lands about the summit of the Gigantea, and again between Sta. Gertrudi's 
and San i5oija, are said to be never affected by drought. The constant fogs keep the grass 
green nearly the entire year, and cattle flourish here no matter how dry the season may be 
elsewhere. Still further north, between Kosario and San Diego, the country is so nearly 
like Upper California, and is subject to so nearly the same climatic laws, that it properly 
belongs with the Southern Coast Range section of the State. It is a series of valleys scattered 
tl'.rough the mountains, pretty well watered, and sharing the Ibrtunes of California, good and 
bad seasons. 

Fisheries. — Along the coasts, especially on the Pacific side.s, the whale fishery is an 
important interest. Most of the large bays, more particularly Magdalena, and Scammon's 
tuid San Ignacio lagoons, are visited by vessels year after year in search of whales, which 
frequent these waters, probably for breeding. There are, perhaps, as many as from 12 to 20 
vessels engaged annually in this branch of enterprise. Seal fishing has also attracted some 
little attention, though not as much as it merits. Myriads of seals and sea-lions line the 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



639 



shores and fall an easy prey to the hunter. On the gulf side the pearl fisheries have been 
fimon{? the most famous in the world for more than a century. Ever since its commence- 
ment, the annual yield has averaged about $'25, 000 per year, and it is still carried on. but with 
diminished activity. 

Conclusion. — ^^By reading the foregoing imperfect sketch it will bo seen that Avhile Lo\yer 
California is by no means the faultless country it might be ; while by far the greater portion 
can never be uiade available for either mining, agricultural, grazing or any other purposes ; 
while its mines are few, its agricultural lands limited, and its supply of water small, still its 
position, its harbors, its climate, and its resources are sufficient to give it a real intrinsic 
value. From its position with relation to Upper California, it is much more an appendage 
to this State than to Mexico, out of sight across the " Sea of Cortez." It commands the 
moutb of the Colorado, and thus affects the trade of the great interior basin east of the Sierra 
Nevada. Its harbors are neither few nor small, and they have a direct value with reference 
to our trade and navy in the Central Pacific. Its agricultural products can be increased in 
quantity; its fisheries are, as yet, in tlieir infancy, and its mines alone would be sufficient 
leason for its acquisition by the United States. Further, everywhere outside of the moral 
influence of La Paz, the seat of government, the people are earnestly in favor of annexation, 
and I am by no means certain that a popular vote ou the question would not result in a 
decided majority in favor of such a measure. 



MEXICO. 

Mining in Mexico. — Mexico is peculiarly a mining country, and indeed it has no industry 
■worthy of note save mining. The exportation of agricultural products and manufactured 
articles does not average 75 cents annually to the inhabitant, while in highly civilized states 
the average is from $10 to l|50. 

All the past and present importance of Mexico in the commercial world is due to its silver, 
which attracted the Spaniards to the country and fixed there and determined the location of 
their towns. With the exception of the capital, to which, of course, the wealthy men 
resorted to spend their money, Puebla and Guadalajara, manufacturing towns, and Vera 
Cruz and Mazatlan, seaports, all the largest towns were built in the immediate vicinity of 
the mines, or in the agricultural districts nearest the mines. Guanajuato was a place of 
minor note till its great mineral wealth was discovered in the middle of the last century, and 
then it suddenly rose to be the second city of the country, and the adjacent plains of Bajio 
at the same time grew rich by agriculture ; and in the same way the mining town of Zaca- 
tecas and the agricultural district of Aguas Calientes grew up side by side. Durango, 
Chihuahua, San Luis Potosi, Alamos, and hundreds of others of less note are strictly mining 
towns. 

The total registered yield of the mines of Mexico from 1521 to 1803 is reported by Hum- 
boldt at $1,767,952,000, and he thinks that an allowance of one-seventh should be made for 
the unregistered yield, giving a total of $2,027,952,000. Ward estimates the quantity pro- 
duced from 1810 to 1825 at f 159,255,840. According to Whitney the vield of Mexico, pre- 
vious to 1845, was $2,700,000,000 ; and if we allow an average of $20,000,000 for each of the 
22 succeeding years, we have a total yield of $3,140,000,000 from 1521 to the end of 186(3. 

The average annual yield of the mines of Mexico was as follows, at various periods : 

About 1700 $5,400,000 1 AboutlSlO $19,000,000 

1740 9,000,000 1815 7,000,000 

1770 12,000,000 11820. „ 10,000,000 

1790 19,500,000 ^1841 18,000,000 

1800 *22,000,000 I 

The amount coined in 1825 was $8,000,000 ; in 1835, $11,000,000 ; in 1845, $15,000,000; 
in 1856, §$19,000,000; and from 1821 to 1856, $2,636,745,951. 

The opening of all the ports of the country to commerce, the great reduction in the price 
of quicksilver caused by the large production of the New Almaden mines in California, and 
the gradual increase of educated engineers and of mining machinery, have brought up the 
production of the country to a higher figure than that reached at the beginning of the century — 
that is, in years of comparative peace and order, such, for instance, as most of those from 
1850 to 1860. 

If Mexico had a government as good as that of Chili, and had railroad communication 
from Vera Cruz and Mazatlan to all the principal mining districts, and were protected against 
the Apaches, the production would at least double within teu years. 

The argentiferous region of Mexico is a long triangle, 800 miles long from_ southeast to 
northwest, 350 miles wide at the base on the^northern boundary, having the city of Oajaca 
for its southern point. 

Nearly all the mining districts of any note are from 4,000 to 9,000 feet above the sea. The 
great elevation counteracts the torrid influence of the latitude, and many of the mining towns 
have very cool climates. 



' Duport, p. 193. 



t lb.; 194. 



•lb., p. 190. 



§ Lempriere, p. 214. 



640 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

In most of the districts porphyrj' is f'oiiud with micaceous schists, aucl the conjunctions of 
those two rocljs with quartz veins is considered an indication of silver. 

The mode of mininpc gfenerally is very rnde. Ko mine is accessible by railroad, and few 
have wa<^on roads. Usually the reduction works are at a distance from the mines, and the 
ore is packed on mules. The ore is brought to the surface on the backs of men, up steep 
inclines; or even up perpendicular shafts, the carriers cliinhiDg up on notched poles. In 
some mines the ore is carried by men to the shaft and there hoisted by whim. There is no 
mention iu Humboldt or Ward of tramways and cars to bring the ore from remote parts of 
the drift to the shaft. Water is hoisted in the same manner as the ore. 

Steam was not used previous to the revolution, but it has been coming into use gradually, 
and now much of the hoisting, pumping, and pulverizing is done by it. 

The general practice in Mexico as to pulverization has been to mash the ore to a coarse 
sand under the stamps, and then grind it iine in arrastras. The degree of fineness varies 
much in the different districts, partly because of differences in the ores and modes of reduc- 
tion, and partly because of ignorance and j^rejudice. At Guanajuato the ore is ground to an 
impalpable powder; at Zacatecas, Catorce, and Fresuillo, in a coarse tlour. In 1842, 82 per 
cent, of the silver yield of Mexico was obtained by the yard amalgamation ; 8 per cent, by 
the Cazo or copper-pan amalgamation, and 10 per cent, by smelting.* In 1800 one-seventh 
was smelted. t 

The proportion of smelted silver has been decreasing gradually, and will no doubt con- 
tinue to decrease. A hundred years ago it was two-fifths of the total yield. 

Since the opening of the Washoe mines and the successful introduction of the iron-pan 
amalgamation there, a number of mines have been purchased in Sonora, Siualoa, Chihuahua, 
Duraugo, and Lower California, by Americans, who have introduced machinery and Ameri- 
can modes of working, and they would probably have obtained some splendid results, at 
least in a few instances, before this time, if the civil war had noi thrown everything into 
confusion. 

The average loss of mercury in the yard amalgamation is a pound and a half to one pound 
of silver extracted. 

The best writers on mining in Mexico agree that the country has great wealth as yet unde- 
veloped, and that a time nmst come when the production of the precious metals will far sur- 
pass anything of the past. Humboldt said he was "tempted to believe Europeans have 
scarcely begun to profit by the inexhaustible fund of wealth contained in the New World. 
Europe would be inundated with clie precious metals if the deposits of ore at Bolanos, I3ato- 
piias, Sombrerete, Rosario, Pachuca, Morau, Zultepec, Chihuahua, and so many other places 
that enjoyed an ancient and just celebrity, were assailed at one and the same time with all 
the means offered by the perfection to wliich the art of the miner has attained." 

The opinion of AVarJ is given in the followmg passages : "That the great mineral treas- 
ures of Mexico commence exactly at the point where Humboldt rightly states the labors of 
the Spaniards to have terminated, (above latitude 24°,) is a fact now universally admitted 
by the native miners, although heretofore but little known in Europe. The states of Durango, 
Sonora, Chihuahua, and Sinaloa contain an infinity of mines hitherto but little known, but 
holding out, wherever they have been tried, a promise of riches superior to anything that 
Mexico has yet produced. * * * # In common I believe 

vrith all those who have had an opportunity of inquiring into the resources of New Spain, I 
do regard it so well ascertained a fact that her mineral riches are almost unexplored, that I 
am willing to rest upon it my whole calculation with regard to her future importance as a 
country." (Ward, vol. J, pp. 127-1()0. ) 

Duport expresses himself thus : "After having visited only Tasco, Real del Monte, and 
Guanajuato, Humboldt said 40 years ago that there was enough silver iu the Mexican mines 
to fiood the world : what would he not have said if lie had pushed his researches further 
north ? More strongly convinced than he could possibly be of the abundance of the argen- 
tiferous veins, I am not so confident about the brevity of the time within which the progress 
of science in Eiuope, and the free intercourse of all nations with Mexico, can exert any con- 
siderable influence on the amount of the production of the precious metais."t 

And again ho says : " The want of capital, of political quiet, of population, and of edu- 
cation in the northwest of the republic, and of wide-spread scientific knowledge, and finally 
the high price of mercury, are the obstacles which oppose the increase of the production of 
the precious metal in Mexico. These causes will exercise their fatal influence for some 
years yet, and will prevent the yield from passing the figure which it reached at the begin- 
ning of this century. But these obstacles are not permanent in their character ; they are 
only temporary, and will after a time be neutralized, and then overcome, by the abundance 
of the ore and the progress of science, which gives a wider dominion every year to the power 
of man. The time will come, a century sooner or a century later, when the production of 
silver will have no limit save that imposed by the steady decrease of its value. "^ 

Northern States of Mexico. — The late Mr. A. Remond, whose untimely decease is 
an irreparable loss to science, made a tour of exploration through the northwestern States 
of Mexico during the years 1863, 1864, and 1865, in the course of which he carefully exam- 

■' Duport, p. 309. t Humboldt, p. 141. J Duport, p. 380. § Duport, p. 426. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 641 

ined the geology of the country, aud collected some valuable statistics on the subject of mines 
and mining. Professor J. D. Whitney, of the geological survey of California, in March, 
1866, submitted to the Academy of Natural Sciences * an interesting report from Mr. Remond. 
The following extracts convey a clear idea of the geological formation and general charac- 
teristics of northern Mexico. The tables accompanying the report show the extent, charac- 
ter, and condition of the mines : 

"The name of the ' Sierra Madre' is usually applied to the main range of mountains of 
this country, or the western border of the plateau which stretches north through the territo- 
ries of the United States, forming what may be called the great orographical feature of the 
continent. In northwestern Mexico this crumpled border of the great plateau comprises an 
extensive mountainous region, by no means forming a continuous single chain, but rather 
several central ranges, with associated groups of parallel ridges, all having the same general 
course, which is approximately north-northwest and south-southeast. Asthe breadth of the 
chain widens as we go towards tlie north, so, too, that of the valleys increases in that direc- 
tion, the whole system of mountains and valleys spreading out in something like a fan shape. 

"Going north, the chain appears to sink gradually, although determinations of altitude in 
northern Mexico are extremely few in number. It is certain that there is, in about latitude 
32°, a depression of the mountain ranges which extends entirely across the continent, and 
Avhich would enable the traveller to cross from the Atlantic to the Pacific, without necessa- 
rily surmounting any elevation greater than 4,000 feet.t The southeastern range is the 
highest, and the culminating point is said to be the Ccrro de Cuiteco, GO leagues northeast 
of Jesus Maria, on the western borders of Chihuahua. The approximate altitude of the 
Cumbre do Uasascachic is 7,429 feet, and that of Guadalupe y Calvo 7,825 feet. To the 
north, the ranges east of Sahuaripa are also very high ; but they liave never been measured. 
No peaks or ridges, however, in tbis portion of Mexico attain anything like the elevation of 
the liigher portion of the Sierra Nevada, few if any points exceeding 10,000 feet in altitude. 

" TUe direction of the sierra is nearly that of a line connecting some of the best mining 
districts in Mexico, which are situated on or very near the summit of the mountains. These 
districts are the following, enumerating them in their geograpliical order from the south 
towards the north : in Durango, San Antonio de las Ventanas, Giiarisamey, and San Dimas, 
remarkable for their auriferous silver ores, and 62 Mexican leagues northeast of Mazatlan ; 
in Chihuahua, Guadalupe y Calvo and San Pedro de Batopilas, yielding fine specimens of 
native silver; also, Jesus Maria, in the same State, and the Real del la Cieneguita, Sonora, 
with silver and gold mines. 

"General Gkology. — The geological structure of the occidental slope of the Sierra 
Madre, as well as that of other parts of this great chain, is exceedingly interesting, and, as 
yet but very little known, notwithstanding the valuable investigations of Humboldt and 
other eminent men ; for, up to the present time, the age of the different formations has never 
been fixed with any degree of accuracy, from want of materials and of sufficient observa- 
tions. In 1863, ]8j4, and 1865, however, I explored quite a number of localities in north- 
western Mexico, and was thus enabled to obtain a pretty good general idea of the geology 
of that region ; and, in Sonora, to which my attention was especially devoted, I succeeded 
in finding fossils in sufficient quantity to allow of the determination of the age of the prin- 
cipal formations of the northern Sierra Madre. By tracing the connection of these rocks 
with those of Central Mexico, additional light will be thrown on those districts of which, at 
present, but httle is definitely known. 

"The igneous rocks, wliich occur more abundantly on the Pacific slope, are granites, 
either fine or very coarse-grained ; porphyries, more or less feldspathic ; and greenstones, all 
of which are cut by numerous dikes of extremely varied character. The granites, how- 
ever, are very poor in veins of the precious metals, v.-hile the porphyries are highly metallifer- 
ous. In Sinaloa (Candelero) and Durango (San Dimas) we see that the granites underlie 
the metallifercus porphyries, and that the greenstones, in Sonora, (near Ileimosillo and in 
the vicinity of La Haciendita,) penetrate through them. 

" The oldest sedimentary rocks which I have observed belong to the carboniferous series ; 
this is represented in tlie eastern part of Sonora by heavy masses of limestone, forming very 
high and rugged ridges, running a little west of north. The upturned strata are seen iu 
many places to rest on granite. Argentiferous veins occur throughout this forma'ion, 

"The next group of sedimentary rocks in order is the triassic; this forms isolated moun- 
tain groups in Sonora, and offers an interesting field for investigation. Instead of lime- 
stones, it is made up of heavy beds of quartzites and conglomerates, with coal-bearing clay 
shales ; all of these are disturbed and elevated, and rest on greenstones, feldspathic porphy- 
ries, or granite. Wherever metamorphosed, the triassic rocks arc auriferous and contain 
veins of silver ores. The metamorphic slates and limestones of the Altar and Magdalena 
districts, which include the richest gold placers of Sonora, may possibly be of triassic age; 
but the fossils collected are too imperfect to admit of this being determined. There aro 
some reasons for believing those rocks to be rather of Jurassic than of triassic age, as they 
differ in lithological characters from both the triassic aud carboniferous of northern Mexico, 

* Proceedings Cat. Acad. Nat. Sciencei!, vol. Ill, pp. 245-258. 
tSee Emory, in Mexican Boundary Report, vol. 1, p. 41. 

41 



'642 REFOUECES OP STATES AND TEREITORIES 

resembling rather the Jurassic g^olcl-bearing slates of the Sierra Nevada, in California; 
besides, they lie outsido and to the west of the Sierra Madre. It may also be noticed that 
the gold which they furnish does not resemble that obtained from the triassic strata. 

" The cretaceous period is also represented at the foot of the Sierra Madre, at Arivechi, in 
Sonora. The strata belonging to this series are chiefly argillaceous shales, and they rest 
upon porphyries and carboniferous limestone. They have been disturbed and elevated since 
ttjeir deposition. The fossils, which they contain in great number and in a fine state of pre- 
servation, will be noticed further on. 

"All tlie above-mentioned formations were already in existence before the first eruption of 
the volcanic rocks took place. These latter are found scattered along the whole Pacific coast, 
and extend from the Gulf of California up to the very summit of the Sierra. It is very inter- 
esting to see the volcanic formations spread over so extensive a region, especially as there 
are no active volcanoes known in northern Mexico, and not even any indications of ancient 
craters or vents. 

"Mines. — The richest and widest veins are those northeast of Mazatlan, near SanDimas, 
Guarisamey, &c., in Durango. These veins cut all the rocks older than the cretaceous, 
whether igneous or sedimentary. The mines of Sinaloa are richer than those of Sonora. 
In the former state the ore-bearing portion of the veins is from a few feet to several yards in 
width ; in the latter, generally from one to two feet. In Durango and Sinaloa, gold, native 
silver, and sulphuret of silver occur, associated with galena, yellow blende, and iron pyrites. 
In Sonora the principal ores are argentiferous gray copper, with galena, black blende, cop- 
per pyrites, arsenical pyrites, carbonate of lead, ruby silver, arsenical silver, and gold. Each 
mining district is characterized by a peculiar system of veins ; in all as many as 20 different 
systems have been observed. The most abundant vein stones are quartz, either chalcedouic, 
crystalline, or massive; brown spar; heavy spar; oxide of iron. The veins occurring m 
the metamorphic triassic rocks are usually parallel with the stratification, so that they lie 
nearly horizontal where the formation has been but little disturbed. As to the yield of the 
silver ores, it varies extremely, and it would be necessary to enter into a full description of 
all the difterent districts to give an idea of it. It may be noticed, however, that the arsenical 
pyrites, which is auriferous in the Sierra Nevada, becomes argentiferous in the Sierra Madre. 
The veins vary in their direction from a little east to a little west of north; the richest ores 
near San Dimas run northeast and southwest. There are but few rich mines in Sonora, a 
state of which the mineral wealth has been much exaggerated. There are, however, some 
deposits of variegaled copper, and veins of magnetic and specular iron. 

"The annexed tabular statement will give the principal facts obtained with regard to the 
mines examined in northern Mexico • 



■WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



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646 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

Mr. Cummings Cherry, geologist and miniDg engineer, Las written an interesting report 
on the mineral resources of Sonora, published by the Cincinnati and Sonora Mining Associa- 
tion. It contains a great variety of valuable information, and shows conclusively the neces- 
sity of railroad communication to develop the rich mineral resources of that country. 

"At present," says Mr. Cherry, "the roads are principally the simple pack-trails of the 
country. From Guayraas, the port of entry, a good wagon road passes by way of Hermosillo 
to Ures, and thence up the Sonora river to Arispe." Another wagon road from Guaymas 
passes through San Marcial and Matape. Nearly the whole country, however, is traversed 
by pack-trails. 

Referring to the miscellaneous resources of Sonora, as connected with the business of 
mining, Mr. Cherry gives the following data: 

"Timber. — A valuable element in mining enterprises, and one which the western and 
southern districts of Sonora are very deficient in, is timber of such quantity and quality as 
may be desired for building purposes and fuel. The timber and lumber used in the erection 
of the beneficiating and other mining works of most of the American enterprises in Sonora 
and southern Arizona have been necessarily brought from San Francisco, and conveyed to 
the mines at heavy expense." 

In some parts of the country the smaller kinds of timber abound in considerable quantities. 
At one place visited by Mr. Cherry : 

"On tlie river margins, cottonwood, ash, willow, walnut, and sycamore of good size and 
quality abound. Ou the bottom lands, the lands formerly cultivated, is a dense forest of 
uiesquite, so thickly matted that we were in places obliged to cut paths through it. I was 
surprised to find many of these trees three feet in diameter, as in other localities they seldom 
attain a diameter of more than six or eight inches, and with one exception this was the 
most extensive forest of these trees I had seen. In the tributary canons and on the hill- 
sides they also occur in numbers, but smaller. This mesquite timber cannot be too highly 
appreciated as a fuel ; it burns long and fiercely, and gives an intense heat. It is ])articu- 
larly valuable for charcoal, which I pronounce a superior article. On the hills are several 
varieties of oak, and on the higher mountain peaks, two or three leagues distant, are heavy 
forests of pine. 

" Arahle Lands and Agricultural Products. — Two crops are raised from the same 
land in the year, and the yield is so abundant as to occasion astonishment to those who are 
unacquainted with the productive nature of these soils. The rainy season sets in early in 
June, and continues to October, though occasional showers fall until March. Corn and 
other products which require rains to bring them to maturity are planted in June, and in the 
latter part of November, or in December, wheat and other hardy products follow, though 
where, as on these lands, irrigation may be resorted to, the crops, however planted, are ever 
sure. The wheat of Sonora is very superior in quality ; its yield is 100 to 200 bushels to one 
bushel sown, and it is not uncommon to get 250 to one. Corn yields large crops ; the native 
variety is a white flint, and may be advantageously replaced with our American yellow,and other 
varieties. Peas ever produce three abundant crops in the year. Beans are the favorite food 
of the people, and as they grace alike the table of rich and poor, surprising quantities are 
consumed. I saw neither rice nor barley, though both may be successfully cultivated. These 
lauds are eminently adapted to the cultivation of sugar cane, cotton, and tobacco, which are 
raised in the nearest settlements with excellent results. From the sugar-cane a coarse kind 
of sugar called panoche is made by the natives ; it is a favorite article of consumption, and 
finds ready sale at $25 to $40 the cargo of 300 pounds, which leaves a handsome profit to the 
cultivator. Cotton is one of the most profitable products of the soil, and is becoming exten- 
sively cultivated. The staple is shorter than our cottons, though of good quality ; it is 
manufactured by the native women into articles of wearing apparel. Tobacco also yields 
well; it is a profitable crop, and is becoming extensively cultivated. Besides these, Chile 
pepper — a capsicum of great pungency, and one of the necessaries of life with the natives — 
onions, garlic, melons, and sweet potatoes are produced, and our common potato and vege- 
tables may be successfully introduced. Fruits of excellent quality could be grown, espe- 
cially sweet and sour oranges, figs, quinces, and peaches ; and the grape could not fail to be 
a decided success. Besides the valley lands on the river are those of the Henrigo valley, 
comprised in the timber tract already spoken of; they are exceedingly fertile, and may be 
irrigated from the creek which courses through them. Back from the river are several pla- 
teaus of rich soils, containing in all, perhaps, 500 acres, which, while they are too elevated 
to admit of irrigation, would produce abundant crops of corn in the rainy season. 

" The only farming implements of the country are a pointed stick, serving for a plough, 
a hoe, and a sickle, and where such grand results are attained with these, what would not be 
the results of the introduction of our improved agricultural implements, and the applicatici 
of farming knowledge ? 

"Pasture Lands. — The higher lands, unfit for agricultural uses, but covered with a 
growth of nutritious grasses, are adapted to cattle and sheep ranges. There are three varie- 
ties of grasses upon the lands, the mesquite grass, confined to the ranges of the mesquite timber; 
the sacatom, a coarse species found on the higher ranges, and the grclma (crondosium,) 
occupying the plateaus and less elevated hills. The latter variety has much the appearance 
of dry, curled whittlings of pine wood, is very nutritious, and was greedily eaten by our 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 647 

animals. Thvouj^hout the entire year the cattle graze upon the hills, there being uo need to 
preserve the grasses. Northern Sonora is, without dispute, pre-eminent as a stock-raising 
country. 

"Rivers. — The Yaqui is the largest stream iu Sonora, and perhaps the only one which 
may be deservedly termed a river. It takes its rise in the mountains near the Arizona 
boundary, and flows in a southerly course. 

" ilAHDOR OF GUAY.MAS. — Our short stayat Guayraas was sufficiently protracted to impress 
us with the important part it must play in the future of Sonora. The town is situated on 
the Gulf of California, in latitude 27° 42' north. Its harbor is eminently the best on the western 
coast of Mexico, being much superior to either San Bias or ilazatlan, and because of the 
trade winds, particularly desirable as a port for the trades of the East Indies and China. 
The bay consists of an inner and outer one, iu all four to five miles in length, almost com- 
pletely sheltered from the winds by the bold heights of Pajaros on the east, and the islands 
of Terra Firma, San Vicente, and Petayas on the west, leaving the channel narrow and 
deep between them. Another entrance, Boca Chica, occurs between Pajaros on the south 
and Cochin on the north. The tides are irregular, being governed by the winds of the Gulf, 
seldom rising and falling more than four or five feet. The depth of water is two fathoms at 
the mole, which is a very superior one, to eight fathoms in the channel. The town is sur- 
rounded by the irregular hills of the Coast range, through which there is but one entrance 
from the land side. These hills, devoid of vegetation, give the town a dreary aspect ; it is 
small, and of modern origin, containing one spacious street, and several cross thoroughfares. 
In 1820 to 18'J.j, when a free port, a considerable business was transacted with foreign ports, 
and it was not uncommon to find 20 or more vessels loading and unloading at one time. 
This activity was prematurely checked by the internal strifes of the following five years, 
during wliich it lost over two-thirds of its population. During the years 1800 to 18G4 it 
received an impetus from the American mining and other enterprises ; considerable capital 
was invested in town lots, and many improvements of a permanent character were inaugu- 
rated, giving to the town a population of over 5,000, and the appearance and live-awake air 
of a California mining tov,-n. The present unfortunate strife and the despotic incubus of a 
French garrison shackled this new-born energy, and at the present writing Guaymas is in 
as fossilized a condition as need be. Were it not for the continual clanging of large and 
small bells with hoarse throats and shrieking voices, the daily occurrence of a procession of 
saints, images, and wax candles, the snarling of curs, the rioting of marines from some 
foreign war vessel, and the occasional view of a native propping up a house, or picking 
vermin, we would have no out-door indications froiu which to conclude the place was settled. 
With the native inhabitants, life seems to be a dolce far nicnte, or more truly, wretchedness, 
filth and inanity. There are a number of fine structures of the architecture peculiar to this 
country, and a few of American pattern. The exports are the common products of the 
country — wheat, corn, flour, cotton, tobacco, unrefined sugar, aguadiente, beef, hides, gold, 
silver, and copper; for which it imports the products of the more southern States, and East 
Indian and European manufacturers. Its exports of products and bullion for 1865 could 
not have fallen short of $4,000,000, though for the present year it will hardly exceed half of 
thiasum. The climate is pleasant from November to April ; the heat in the summer months, 
June to September, is excessive, the mercury reaching 105° to 110°, and very seldom falling 
below 97° or 98°, and when the hot winds visit the town, as they often do during the summer 
months, it frequently reaches 135°. There is but little sickness, and what occurs is of a 
light character; the water which supplies the town is procured from wells sunk at the limits 
of the town, and is slightly brackish, though wholesome. With a harbor capable of giving 
good anchorage to 200 vessels, safe navigation in the Gulf, and a section of country requiring 
only peace, enterprise, capital, and the energy of American settlers to till the lands, and 
work the mines which Mexican indolence has permitted to fall into ruin, with the indomita- 
ble spirit of American advancement to make of an old country a nev/ California, Guaymas 
is destined at no distant day to take her place as the grand coiumercial depot of western 
Mexico, and I would venture to predict, of our own extreme southwestern Territoi;jes." 

General Rufus Ingalls, in his inspection report, (Ex. Doc. Ill, 39th Cong., 2d sess., p. 9,) 
says: 

" A harbor on the Gulf is wanted, such, for example, as Guaymas, which is nearer to the 
heart of Arizona than any point on the Colorado river. From Port Libertad to Tucson is 
only some 225 miles ; from Fort Yuma it is 300. Had we possession of Port Libertad, or 
better, Guaymas, our posts iu Arizona could be much easier and more cheaply supplied, and 
a great number of mines could then be worked with profit that lie idle now. This matter I 
am aware has received the attention of our authorities, who will probably cause a change in 
our boundary in proper time. I know that Generals Halleck and McDowell have both 
appreciated its necessity, and General Waller, who has been in Arizona, has written me a 
letter on the subject, which I enclose." 

SINALOA. 

Sinaloa is comparatively poor as a mining State. The lodes are neither large nor numerous. 
There are, however, several dozen mines that have paid well, and four or five that have 
yielded handsome fortunes to their proprietors. The Guadalupe mine at Cosala, if Ward's 



648 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

account of it is to bo accepted, was, 40 years ago, one of tie best mines in Mexico. It was 
very rich in gold, and the owner could obtain a thousand pounds of that metal frosn it every 
week, but he was a crotchety, miserly bigot, who refused *o work his mine, refused to sell 
it. refused to let anybody else work it, and bred his childreu m ignorance and dirt.*' 

Such an account about a mine of v.hich we lind no information in other books should be 
looked upon with some suspicion, especially since Waul did not visit Cosala; but his state- 
ment that $1,(!(]0,C(J0 had been offered for the mine by an association of foreigners is prob- 
ably correct, ibr he was in a position to be familiar with al\ the sales of valuable mines in 
the country. 

One of the most noted mines of Sinaloa is the Tajo at Rosario, which was discovered by 
accident about the beginning of the last century. A pious raiichero lost his rosary, and hi-> 
search for it kept him out in the mountains all night. lie made a fire to protect himself 
against the cold, and in the morning he discovered that the stones on which he had rested 
his wood were sparkling with silver. He claimed a mine, and called the place by the Spanish 
name of Rosary. It yielded large quantities of silver, and tradition says that the Rosario 
church, which cost $80,GOO, was built by a tax of one-quarter of a real on each marc (about 
one per cent.) of the silver extracted from the mine. This would imply that the total yield had 
been $8,(J0O,(lOU previous to 1805, in which year the church was finished. In J82U 100 men 
were drowned in it, and most of the time since then it has been lying idle. 

CHIHUAHUA. 

Most of the mines of Chihuahua are in a basin which has no outlet to the sea. The eleva- 
tion is high, the climate dry, the earth rocky and bare, and the few streams arc lost in lakes 
or swamps which have no outL^ts. Some of the mines, however, are on the western slope of 
the Sierra Madre, and others in the basin of the Rio Grande. The principal mining districts 
are those of Parral, Santa Eulalia, Morelos, Jesus Maria, Guadalupe, Calvo.and Batapolis. 

Parral is in the southeastern corner of the State, and its ores are abundant but poor. The 
lodes have rocky crests which project considerably above the low hills of the region. Water 
is scarce at the surface, and the mines are in a bad condition, having been long abandoned 
and allowed to fall in. 

Batapolis has a multitude of very rich lodes. The Carmen yielded a lump of native silver 
weighing 4'25 pounds. There was so much native silver in the ores of the Pastrana mine 
that the drill-bars of the miners were provided with sharp chisels at one end for the purjiose 
of cutting the metal. 

Buen Suceso was another mine in which pure silver was found ia large quantities. It was 
discovered by an Indian, who swam across the river (the Fuerte) and found the clear metal 
on the bank, where it had been laid bare by the water. He denounced the mine, and took 
out much silver, but after getting down three yards the \vater became so troublesome that 
he could go no further, and the mine was not worked while Ward was in Mexico, nor do we 
find any mention of it in later books. 

The mines of Morelos were disco-\'ered in 1826, and yielded $270,000 in two months. Jesus 
Maria, on the western boundary of the State and nearly east of Guaymas, was discover.^d in 
1822, and yielded extremely rich ore — so rich that it Avas packed to Parral, nearly 400 miles 
distant, to be reduced. Refugio was discovered shortly before the outbreak of the revolution; 
yielded about half a million annually for four or five years. 

About 15 miles southeast of the city of Chihuahua is the district of Santa Eulalia, which 
produced about §100,000,000 in the course of the last century. From 1705 to 1737 the 
average annual yield was §1,748,742. In 1791 there were in the district 0,000 inhabitants, 
73 amalgamating establishments, and 180 smelting furnaces. About J795 the district was 
abandoned in consequence of the incursions of the Apaches and Comanches, and the mines 
remained in their abandoned condition, although there is no reason to doubt that they might 
be worked with great profit, if the laborers and property could be protected against the sav- 
ages. Just before the district was abandoned a ricii deposit found in one of the mines had 
been worked out, having lasted nine years, in which time it yielded so much that a tax of 
one real per marc (about one and a half per cent.) sufficed to build the cathedral of Chi- 
huahua and establish Ibr it a reserve fund of |10,000. We cannot estimate the total yield 
of the bonanza at less than $4,000,000. 



Durango is very rich in silver, but its wealth was not known until just before the levolu- 
tlon, and there has been comparatively little exploraUon since. This State, like Sono-ra and 
Chihuahua, has suffered severely irom Apache incursions. 

The city of Durango, 195 miles northwest of Zacatecas, had only 8,000 inhabitants in 1783, 
but in that year Zambrano, the great miner of that region, discovered the mines of Guarisa- 
mey, and Durango soon trebled in population. In 24 years he extracted $30,000,000 from 
his claims, and a multitude of other mines were opened, so that the average yield of the 
State was estimated to be $5,000,000. 

Wiird, volume II, page 324. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOXmTAINS. 



649 



The principal mining districts are Gavilanes, Guarisamey, San Demas, Tamnsnla, Canelas, 
and Sianori, on the western slope of the Sierra Madre, and Cuencame, Guauaseir, and 
Mapimi on the eastern. These eastern districts are marked by the abundance of lead ; the 
western by the abundance of gold. The lode at Gavilanes is 40 feet thick and the ore quite 
rich, but it is stubborn both for amalgamation and for snielting. The richest district is Guari- 
samey, and the most productive mines are there — Arafia, Cinco, Sefiores, Bolafios, Piramide, 
Candelania, Dolores, and Tapia. The Arana mine was remarkable for having a vault (like 
that in Zavala mine at Catorce) filled with a line dust, a large part of which was native gold 
and silver. 

Ward says of Durango : " The State is rich in mineral deposits, none of which, excepting 
Guarisamey and San Demas, have been at all extensively worked. There is hardly a single 
mine exceeding 100 varas in depth; for, in general, the use of even the simplest machinery 
was unknown in the north, and a malicati, primitive as the invention is, would have excited 
almost as much astonishment as a steam engine itself. The mines were worked as long as 
the water could be raised, without inconvenience, by two or three tenatoris (carriers) with 
leather buckets, and abandoned when the discharge of this duty became too laborious. Most 
of the principal districts may, consequently, be regarded as virgin ground, and there are 
few in which the old shafts might not be again brought into activity with a comparatively 
small outlay." (Ward, II, page 293.) 

SOUTH AMEEICA. 

PERU. 

The silver of Peru in the present day comes chiefly from Cerro Pasco, Hualgayoc, Guama- 
chuco, Couchuco, and Huantaya — all except the last in districts near the summit of the 
Andes. In the beginning of the century Cerro Pasco yielded $2,000,000 annually, Hual- 
gayoc $560,000, Guamachuco and Couchuco each $40,000, and Huantaya $675,000. Since 
then the production of all these districts has decreased. The fame of Peru for mineral 
wealth was due mainly, for a long period, to the Potosi mines, which were transferred to 
Buenos Ayres in 1778, and have belonged to Bolivia since Spanish America became independ- 
ent. Huantaya is in the desert of Atacama, and is remarkable for the production of immense 
masses of native silver, one of which, found in 1758, weighed 800 pounds. 



The town of Potosi is situated 13,200 feet above the level of the sea, 100 miles from the 
Pacific, and 50 miles east of the m.ain divide of the Andes. The summit of the Potosi moun- 
tains is 15,981 feet high, and is five miles from the town. The peak is conical, with sides 
that rise at an angle of 45^ to the horizon, reddish brown in color, and bare of vegetation. 
It was on the side of this mountain that a poor Indian, named Diego Hualca, while clam- 
bering after a wild goat in the autumn of 1545, caught hold of a shrub to assist him up, and 
it pulled out, exposing pure silver to view. A brief examination proved the existence of a 
rich mine, and soon Potosi obtained almost as much celebrity throughout the civilized world 
as did California 300 years later. That barren and bleak mountain contained the largest 
deposit of rich silver ore ever found in the world, and it has produced more silver than any 
other district. The total production from 1545 to 1803 is given by Humboldt* at$l, 150,000,000. 

The following table, showing the yield in various years, indicates the gradual changes in 
production : 



1720 $1,300,000 

1745 1,850,000 

1785 3,600,000 

1830 1625,000 



1549 $1,549,000 

1550 2,000,000 

1590 7,500,000 

1630 5,000,000 

1680 3,000,000 

During the first five years large masses of ore were found yielding $10,000 per ton; m 
1574 the first-class ore was worth $1,400 per ton; in 1607 the yield was about $35 per ton; 
and in 1790 they got very little ore that produced more than $ 16 to the ton. The last quarter 
of the XVIth century was the most prosperous period in the history of Potosi, which had 
then a population of 130,000 souls. Ihe men were nearly all Indians, who were compelled 
to work as slaves in the mines, and probably three-fourths of the 8,285,000t red men who 
died in the mines were sacrificed to get out the treasures that astonished the world during 
two centuries after the discovery made by Diego Hualca. This imposing city, the largest 
that has ever existed so high above the sea, needed great supplies, which could only be 
obtained at vast expense. For the purpose of getting water 39 artificial lakes were made by 
building dams across ravines and valleys in the mountain side. The silver was carried by 
ox-carts, by way of Tucuman, to Buenos Ayres, and not unfrequently 100 of these carts, 

* Chapter XI, volumo HI, p. 249. The amounts collected for the king's fifth, year by year, from 1556 to 
1789, are given there. 

t Templa, volume I, p. 309. J Temple, volume I, p. 320. 



650 TIESOUECES OF STATES AND TEERITORIES 

heavily laden, were seen in a train. It was probably from this stream of silver that the river 
having its outlet at the same place was called the Plata, that word being the Spanish name 
for silver. 

For 30 years after the discovery of Potosi the silver was obtained exclusively by smelting 
in portable furnaces made of clay, in the ibrm of hollow cylinders, with a number of holes 
for the admission of air. Silver ore, galena, and charcoal were put in in alternate laytrs, 
and the fierce winds which blow on the mountain side furnished a sutScient blast, and some- 
times even too strong, so that it was necessary to carry the furnaces to a sheltered place. 
The mixed lead and silver were afterwards melted again with a blast made by a dozen Indians 
blowing with their mouths through copper tubes two yards long; and thus the baser metal 
was burned off. At one time 6,000 of these furnaces could be seen burning on the mountain 
side. The galena was found in the Little Potosi mountain. At the end of the XVIth century 
l.'),000 slaves and as many llamas, and as many more mules, were emnloyed in the labors of 
the mines and reduction works. 



Chaiiarccllo, the richest mining district of Chili, and at present the most prosperous and 
promising of all in South America, is situated in latitude 27° 30', 50 miles southeastward 
from Copiapo. It is 50 miles from the ocean and 3,000 feet above the level of the sea to the 
lowest mines. The most productive deposit of silver has been found within an area a mile 
and a half long and a mile wide, in a cream-colored hill, all the adjacent hills being dark. 
It is situated on the edge of the desert of Atacama, and there is very little vegetation, and 
sometimes no rain for a year. The nearest water — at least the most convenient of access — 
is 10 miles off, and it is sold at the mines at 16 gallons for $1, but it is fit only for brutes, 
and the water for the men is brought further, and paid for at a higher price. 

The first mine of Chauarcello was discovered on the 16th of May, 1832, by a muleteer 
named Juan Godoi, vv'ho, while out hunting, got tired of chasing a guanaco and sat down 
on a stone to rest. Happening to examine the rock, he saw that it was very rich silver ore, 
and he managed to break off enough to load his two donkeys, with which he went to Copi- 
apo, where he asked the assistance and counsel of Juan Callejas, his friend and an old miner. 
They obtained a title to the mine, and Callejas, in recognition of many favors, transferred 
his share (one-third) to Don Miguel Gallo, who became one of the wealthiest men of Chili. 
The mine proved very productive, and Godoi, who had been a very reputable muleteer, 
became a low debauchee. He spent all his immense wealth, and was reduced to beggary. 
He had not even a donkey. Gallo took pity on him and gave him a little mine, which he 
sold for $14,000, and on that sum the discoverer of Chauarcello lived in moderation and quiet. 

A mine called Bolados was richer than the pioneer claim, to which it was very near. It 
yielded $3,000,000 to four owners, and, though all were married and had children, not one 
of them left a cent to his heirs. AH had wasted their money in riotous living. The largest 
piece of native silver on record was found in this mine ; it weighed 0,000 pounds, and was 
worth $150,000. One lump of it cut out with chisels — for it could not be drilled for blasting — 
Aveighed a ton and a half. 

In 1850 there were 1,750 miners in the Chanarcello district, two-thirds of them Chilenos, 
and the remainder foreigners, mostly from other Spanish American States. The barreteros 
or miners who break down the ore, received $25 per month and 20 ounces of bread, a pound 
of boiled beans, six ounces of wheat, and 24 figs daily, the food being supposed to be 
enough for an average family. The apires, or men who carry the ore upon their backs to 
the surface, the usual load being from 250 to 375 pounds, receive $12 per month and the 
same rations. 

At the mouth of the mine the ore is broken with hammers into pieces of half a cubic inch 
and assorted. Everything that will not yield at the rate of $50 per ton was thrown to ono 
side as not rich enough to pay for working, and of this rejected material there were piles at 
Chauarcello, in 1850, estimated to contain $20,000,000 of silver. 

The pulverization is effected in arrastras, and the amalgamation in wooden tubs with iron 
bottoms. The stirring is done by four crooked iron arms fastened to a vertical shaft which 
revolves in the centre of the tub. There is no muller or grinding of the ore in the tub. 
The process requires six or eight hours. 

In 1850 there were in the province of Atacama 75 productive silver mines, 193 unpro- 
ductive, and 2,914 persons employed. The amount of ore extracted was 15,398,996 pounds, 
of which 10,480,000 were credited to Chauarcello and 3,000,000 to Tres Puntas. 

At Chaiiarcello there were 18 productive mines and 97 that had been opened and had not 
paid expenses. The total yield of the 10,480,000 pounds of ore obtained at Chauarcello was 
$2,700,000, of which $2,100,000 was net profit.* 

It would appear from this statement that the ores extracted yield on average more than 
$5,000 per ton. The total yield of the Chanarcello district from 1832 to 1860 is estimated a 
$80,000,000. The value of the silver exported from Chili was $59,931 in 1830 ; $761,406 in 
1835 ; $1,381,030 in 1845 ; $3,555,045 in 1850. 

The Tres Puntas mines were discovered in 1849, and are 7,000 feet above the sea. "Water 

* U. S. Haval Astronoiuical Expedition, vol. 1, i). 262. 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 651 

costs there six cents per gallon, and the country is still more desolate than about Chafiar- 
cello. 

The hill of Chanarcello is composed of regular strata, nearly horizontal, of rocks partly 
calcareous, and partly argillaceous. In the deepest workings there are porphyries and some 
dolomites. The ores are chiefly chlorides and bromides either separate or mixed. 

Cerro Blanco, 30 miles east-southeast of Chanarcello, has a number of lodes which were 
rich in silver near the surface, but in the loAver depths they yield little save copper, of which 
the ore has a large percentage. 

Carriso, in latitude 28^^ 45', has some rich silver lodes and one of gold. Eight miles south- 
east of Carriso isAgua Amarga,a hill resembling Bolaco, at Cbauarcollo, with as many 
argentiferous lodes, but not so rich. Most of them are now abandoned. A mile from Agua 
Amarga are the mines of Tunas, which yielded $400,000 of native and ruby silver near the 
surface. 

BRAZIL. 

The placers of Brazil, the richest known to modern times previous to the beginning of 
this century, are found over an area 300 miles wide, from north to south between parallels 
17 and 22 of south latitude, in the mountains which separate the valleys of the Amazon 
and the La Plata, and 800 miles long, extending from the western boundary of Brazil nearly 
to the Atlantic. The rocks are granite in the higher peaks, with micaceous schists and slates 
lower down, intersected by numerous veins of quartz. Itacolumite is found exteusivel}-, and 
diamonds, which are seldom found near it, are abundant in Brazil, which has furnished more 
of those precious stones than all the other diamond mines in modern times. These are, 
indeed, the only diamond mines of any note in Christendom. Very little is done in them 
now. The gold was discovered at Minas Geraes in 1599, and soon attracted a considerable 
population. The gold deposits of Jacoabina and of Eio do Carmo were opened in J7U0, and 
those of Mato Grosso in 1734. From 1752 to 1701 the production was largest, and there 
were then 80,000 miners employed. It is said that in one year the production was 
$20,000,000. It is a matter of record that the 20 per cent, tax on the gross product, or the 
king's fifth as it was called, for the district of Minas Geraes was $2,000,000 for 1753. In 
1725, when the yield was considerably less than it became a quarter of a century later, 
there were 100,000 slaves at work, and it was estimated that they took out an eighth of an 
ounce each per day, as we learn from Southey ; *■ bat as this would give a total yield of 
$60,000,000 annually, we must infer that many of the slaves were employed in other pur- 
suits, and that many of the slave miners did not make their eighth of an ounce per day. 
The largest Brazilian nugget of which we find any mention, weighed 13 pounds and sold for 
about $2,600. After 1775 the yield declined rapidly. In 1812 the production was about 
$4,000,000, and in 1822 $700,000, and now it probably does not exceed $500,000. The total 
yield of the Brazilian gold mines from the time of their discovery till 1803 was estimated by 
Humboldt at $655,500,000, and we may estimate the production since 1803 at .$70,000,000, 
making the total contribution of gold by Brazil $925,500,000 in a period of 268 years : less 
than California has furnished in 20 years. So far Brazil has only two quartz mines, the St. 
John and the Gongo Soco. The latter yielded 33,000 pounds of gold from 1826 to ]849.t 

Of the St. John, Whitneyt says : "The mine of St. John del Eey is the most remarkable 
gold quartz mine in the world, having been worked for a longer time aud having produced 
more gold than any other. The working was commenced about 1725, and after nearly a 
hundred years of success was abandoned, and in 1834 the working was resumed, and from 
1838 to 1852 the mine paid a profit of $1,500,000. The amount of rock reduced was 34,000 
tons in 184G, and 82,000 in 1852, the increase being gradual. The profit varied from $2 to $3 
per ton. The rock contained about .004 per cent, of metal. The crushing was done with 1 18 
stamps. The mine is owned by a company which had 1,000 slaves and employed 80 Euro- 
pean overseers, mechanics, «S:c. One of the mines was 1,200 feet deep." 

BEITISH POSSESSIONS. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

The gold mines of British Columbia are in the basins of the Fraser and Columbia rivers. 

The chief mining district is Cariboo, on the north side of the north fork of Quesnelle 
river, 100 miles above the mouth of that stream, in latitude 53°, and 100 miles from the 
ocean, from which it is separated by a range of mountains 8,000 or 10,000 feet high. The 
winters are very severe, and they last from October to June, dui-ing which period the country 
is covered with a deep snow. In July and August the streams are at flood height. The 
gold is found at a depth varying from 12 to 100 feet from the surface in the beds and banks 
of creeks, some of which run through swamps. The auriferous deposit is very rich, and if it 
were in a genial clime and favorably situated, the yield per day would rival if not surpass 
anything ever found in California, but the great cost of all supplies, the necessity of lying 
idle a large part of the year, and the difficulty of finding good claims, prevent it from being 

* History of Brazil, chapter XXXVL t Calvert, p. 231. J Metallic Wealth, p. 111. 



652 



EESOURCES OF STATES AND TEEEITORIES 



an attractive place for miners. Claims tbat have been well opened have, in many instances, 
paid I'or a few weeks or month $500 per day to the man. One claim 25 by 80 feet yielded 
llOo.COO. The gold on Antler creek is 830 fine ; on Lowhee creek 920. The metal is found 
in coarso rough lumps, which look as though they had not moved far from their rocky source. 
Some auril'eious quartz lodes have been discovered, but little has been done in quartz mining. 

Tbegold in the basin of the Co'umbia is found in the beds, bars, and banks of creeks, 
between parallels 49" aud 51'. The diggings are mostly shallow, and not rich, although, as 
they cover a considerable extent of country, they may in the course of a few years produce 
more gold than Cariboo. 

The folluwiijg table shows the amount of gold shipped from Victoria to San Francisco : 



Year. 



]8.".8 
18.VJ 
16G0 
18iil 
1862 



Am't shipped. 



$337, 765 
1,211,304 
1,652,621 
1, 942, 629 
2, 167, 183 



1863 

1864 

1865 

1866 

1867, (9 months) 



Am't shipped. 



$2,935,173 
2, 784, 226 
2, 067, 661 
1, 625, 311 
1, 100, 588 



AUSTRALIA, 



The colony of Victoria in Australia did not begin to produce gold until 1851, but the next 
year it had already risen nearly to a level with California, and since then the two States 
have kept nearly an equal pace. The following table shows the number of ounces exported 
annually from Melbourne, and the value as estimated in pounds sterling : 



Year. 



1851 
18."i2 
1853 
1854 
1855 
1856 
1857 
1858 



Ounces. 



145,147 

2, 724. i)33 

3, 15l»,021 
2, 392, 065 
2, 793, COS 
2, 985, 696 
2, 7iil, 528 
2, 528, 188 



Value. 



£580, 587 
10, 899. 733 
12.600,083 

9, 568, 262 
11,172,261 
11,942,783 
11,046,113 
10,112,752 



Year. 



1859 
1860 
1861 
1862 
1863 
1864 
1865 
1866, 



Ounces. 



2, 280, 676 
2,156,661 
1, 967, 420 
1, 658, 285 
1, 627, 066 
1, 544, 694 
1, 543, 801 
1, 480, 597 



Value. 



£9, 122, 703 
8, 626, 642 
7, 869, 758 
6, 685, 192 
6, 507, 488 
6, 178, 776 
6,175,204 
5, 928, 948 



We have no plain description of the character of the quartz lodes and placers of Victoria, 
but they, especially the latter, differ from those of California. Water is far less abundant; 
ditches are fewer, smaller, and less costly; hydraulic claims, tunnel claims, and sluices are 
rarer ; shaft claims are far more numerous ; the character of the leads appear to be less dis- 
tiiict; the gold is generally coarser in size and finer in quality, and the gold-bearing strata 
seem to be richer. There are few placer claims in California that would pay for hoisting 
dirt 100 feet tiirough shafts, and washing in puddling boxes, as is done in many Australian 
claims. We see no mention in Victoria books or newspapers of ancient rivers, which occupy 
a very prominent phice in the placer mining of Calitbrnia. 

Some of the peculiarities of placer mining in Victoria are suggested in the following extract 
from Westgarth : 

Alluvial miuiiig:, however, differs from quartz mining in not being mainly dependent on steam machinery. 
Much of it is still conducted by mcsc manual labor, butundor appliances either new or much improved during 
the last 10 years. Uorsc-power has also been largely introduced, and it is the great motive force of tlie puddling 
macUiue, that grand institution of the alluvial mining world. This machine rapidly supplanted the original 
cradle and tub ; in fact, it represents both upon a giant scale. The miner could I'cadiJy apprehend that if 
an ordinary washing tub of three or four feet in diameter could be made to yield an ounce of gold per day, 
one of as many yards must, if ciiually well worlicd, yield proportionately more. The cradle ai-rangement was 
adapted to the gravel ; while the tub was suited to the puddling of the finer debris, such as pipe clay or dirt 
bods, \^'hieh were mucli more fi-equent to the miner than pm-e gravel. Puddling by wholesale was therefore 
a subject of early attention. 

STATIONS OF VICTOllIA. 

At the end of 1866, there were 70,804 men engaged in mining, a decrease ot nearly 10,000 
within a year, of 27,000 since 18(52, and of 54,000 since 1859; the average weekly earnings 
of miiieis were £1 J Is., or about $7 75 each, and in 1852 they were $22 40. 

The maciiinery employed in quartz mining consisted of 522 steam engines, with an aggre- 
gate of 9,07 9 horsc-puwer ; 62 water and horse-power ciushing machines ; 55 water wheels ; 
210 whims and pulleys; 6 derricks, and 74 whips. 

The machinery employed in alluvial mining consisted of 451 steam engines, with an aggre- 
gate i.f 9, :io8 hur.sc-po\ver ; 2,799 horse-puddling machines; 400 whims and pulleys; 110 
whips; (121 .sluices and toms ; 159 water wheels ; 30 hydraulic boxes; 179 pumps ; 5,835 
sluice boxes, and 3 boring machines. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



653 



The total estlmatecl value of the machinery employed in mining was $9,500,000, and the 
chiims themselves $43,000,000. 

The length of the mining laces, or as we call them "ditches, "at the end of 1864 was 1,747 
miles, ana the approximate cost |941,655, or $539 per mile. In the Stanley sub-dii-trict, the 
races cost more than $2,000 per mile, the hio^h average being caused partly by 14,383 yards 
of tunnelling. 

The poorest gold was 742 fine, and sold for £3 3s. per ounce, and the richest was 9(;() 
fine, and sold for £4 2s. per ounce. The mean fineness was 854. 

About one-third of the gold comes from quartz, and one-third from alluvial mines. 

The total number of distinct quartz lodes proved to be auriferous is 1,700, and the area of 
auriferous alluvial and quartz ground worked upon is 892 square miles. 

In 18G4, 843,515 tons of quartz yielded 433,981 ounces, or $9 54 per ton of 2,240 pounds. 
This is the only quartz of which returns were obtained, though it is known that more was 
crushed ; how much more is not shown in the reports. 

The population at the end of 1865 was 410,000, the number of sheep 11,000,000, neat cattle 
2,000,000; the deposits in savings and other banks £6,668,060. 

The exports of wool in 1865 were 30,000,000 pounds, the number of acres cultivated 378,000 ; 
the yield of wheat nine bushels per acre on the average, an average yield of 33 bushels cf maize 
per acre; the production of coal 585,000 tons, and the importation of wheat and flour above 
exports £585,000 in value. The number of miners' licenses issued in that year wore 15,458, 
and assuming that this figure represents the number of miners, the average yield of the mines 
per man for the year was £75.* The wages of bricklayers, masons, and carpenters vary 
fi'om $1 75 to $2 50 per day in Melbourne. 

NEW SOUTH WALES. 
The following table shows the exportation in ounces of the colony of New South Wales, 
year by year, since 1857 



J ./ ./ 










t 






Year. 


Exporta- 
tion. 


Year. 


Exporta- 
tion. 


Year, 


Exporta- 
tion. 


Year. 


Exporta- 
tion. 


1851 


Ounces. 
161,880 

1 or, 500 

173, 9G0 
148, 900 


1855 


Ounces. 
107,250 
134, 950 
148 126 
255, 535 


1859 

1860 


Ounces. 
293, .574 
355, 3i8 
403, 139 ' 
584,219 


1803 


Ounces. 
422, 722 


1852 


1856 


1864 


314,351 


1853 


1857 


1861 „.. 

1862 


1865 


279, 121 




1858 


1866 


235, 893 













gold yield in this colony decreased for three years after 1852, and then increased 
' for seven years, and again began to decline. The decrease since 1862 is attributed by 



The 

rapidly 

one of the Sydney newspapers to the'exclusion of Chinamen from the mines, and that policy 

has no doubt had a very injurious eflect on the production. 

NEW ZEALAND. 

The mines of New Zealand Avere opened in 1858, and produced but little for three years, 
and then rose rapidly in importance. The manifested exported was 187,^95 ounces in 1861, 
and :239.722 ounces in 1862. The amount of New Zealand shipped to England by way of 
Melbourne was 284,118 ounces in 1863; 311,767 ounces in lb64 ; 216,046 ounces in 1865, 
and 407,394 ounces in 1866. The total exportation of 1865 was reported to be £2,226,474, 
equivalent to about $11,000,000. 

Westgauth's EsTtiNiATES. — Westgavth makes the following estimates of the total pro- 
duction of the Australarian gold fields, from 1851 to the end of 1863 : 



Year. 


Victoria. 


New South 
Wales. 


New Zealand. 


1851 . 


$3, 000, 000 

54, 500, 000 
63, 000, 000 
48, 00' 1, 000 
57, 000, 000 
5y, 500, 000 

55, 000, 000 
50, 500, 000 

45. 500, o;;o 

43, 000, 000 
39, 500, 000 
31,500,000 
32, 000, 000 


$3, 000, 000 
6, 00 J, 000 
5, 500, 030 
2, 500, OCO 

2, 500, 00!) 

3, 001), 000 
3, 500, 000 
5, 500, COO 
0, O'.O, 000 

7, 000, OUO 

8, 0^0, JO 
12, COO, 000 

8, 500, 000 




1852 




1853 . ... 




1854 




1855 




1856 




1857 




1858 


$500, 000 


1859 


500, 000 


1860 


5L0, 000 


1861 


4, 000, OUO 


1862 


8, 0^0, COO 


1803 


14, 5:;0, 000 






Total 


584, 000, 000 


73, 000, 000 


28, 000, COO 







The total annual production of the Australian and New Zealand gold mines may be esti- 
mated at $50,000,000. (Westgarth p. 345. Pounds (£) calculatad at $5 each,) 

* Melbourne Age, January 4, 1867. 



654 EESOUECES OF STATES AND TEEEITOEIES 

RUSSIAN POSSESSIONS. 

SrBERIA. 

Siberia ranks third among gold-producing countries, and for a quarter of a century before 
the disc'overy of the Californlan mines, ranked first. The gold mining of the Russian empire 
l.iegon in placers at Jekaterinburg in 1742; in 1753 quartz mines were opened at Berezov ; 
in"] 829 the placers on the western part of the Altai were opened, and in 1838 those of eastern 
Siberia. The production was small for a long time, averaging only about $23,000 annually 
of placer gold from 1814 to 1820; but after the latter year it increased Avith great rapidity, 
averaging $1,G68,900 in the next decennium, and $3,860,000 in the 10 years from 1830 to 
1810, and $12,200,000 for the next decennium. This is exclusive of the quartz gold, which 
from 1752 to 1850, amounted to $28,000,000. The yield in 1853 was estimated by Whitney 
at 04,000 pounds troy, or about $14,500,000. In 1862 the production was reported to be 
about $10,000,000. 

As a gold-producing country, Russia ranks next to the United States, and the colony of 
Victoria, the present annual yield being about $15,000,000. The mines are all in Siberia, 
in the eastern slope of the Ural, and on the northern slope of the Altai mountains. The 
former chain runs with the meridian from latitude 45° to 67°, and is auriferous for most of 
its length, but its chief wealth is on the Siberian side. 

The Altai chain runs nearly parallel with the equator, about latitude 50°, and the auri- 
ferous river beds and hilis extend as far as G0°, or even farther. The Altai reminds tis of 
the Sierra Nevada ; both chains separate high and desert table lands from districts with rich 
soil and abundant streams ; and the side which has the streams abounds in gold, while silver 
is found on the other side.* 

The climate of Siberia is very severe, and in most of the placer districts the ground is con- 
stantly frozen at a depth of three |ind a half feet, the cold of winter penetrating much deeper, 
and tbe thawing influence of summer only reaching to that depth. Washing is only possible 
between May and September, so that half the year is lost for mining purposes. The mines 
are owned by the government or by wealthy proprietors, and the laborers are ignorant and 
poor men, who bring neither intelligence nor zeal to their aid. Each laborer receives from 
his employer a certain ration of meal, and his money wages amount to about half an ounce 
of gold for a year, or something like half an ounce of silver per month — 50 or 60 cents a 
month.! 

The methods of placer working are not described fully in any of the authors whose 
books are accessible in this country; but it seems evident that the amount of earth washed 
is considerably less, in proportion to the number of laborers, than in the Anglo-Saxon 
mines. It is said that Californian modes of washing have been introduced to a limited 
extent in a few of the districts ; but we have no account of large ditches, of deep hydraulic 
claims, of ancient river beds, or of various other interesting facts which mark mining in 
California. And yet the number of miners in Siberia is reported to be only 40,000, and if 
they can obtain $15,000,000 in six months they make a very fair average production, much 
larger than would be presumed from the cash wages of $10 or $12 per year. According 
to Atkinson]: the pay dirt at Tagilsk contains one ounce of goldin 60,000 of each, or $8 
in a ton. Duporti^S says the richness in 1821) was two ounces in 100,000. In California 
$1 to ihe ton of earth in a hydraulic claim is considered rich, and many mines that do not 
contain more than 50 cents to the ton are worked with large profit. It is difficult, however, 
to make comparisons between California and Siberia in the absence of precise information 
in regard to the mines of the latter country. There are many places in California in which 
the pay dirt has yielded more than $50 to the ton of pay dirt, and in some claims where the 
auriferous deposit was very shallow, or where it could only be reached by deep shafts or 
long tunnels, or where water was very scarce, it could not be worked profitably for less than 
$25. One verj^ serious drawback to mining in Siberia is the fact that the government 
levies a tax of 15 per cent, oti the gross yield of all mines, and from 30 to 35 per cent, on all 
which yield more than $400,000 annually. || 

As to the modes of quartz mining, Erraan says : 

The ore collected is pouretl into long troughs where water is added aud it is beaten with cast-iron 
stampers. The current of water which continually flows on it through pipes, carries off the fine powder 
over the washing benches which are laid like slightly inclined terraces under the troughs, while muny of 
the heavier grains of gold fall into the interstices of the double iron bottom of the stamping trough and ai-o 
collected from time to time. As is usual with poor sand, it is often raked upwards on the benches with a 
wooden rake. Ores which, as hero yield ore about one part in fcl4,000 of their weight of metal, give not 
more than one part in 1,000,000 to the first straining. The richest part of the product which rest upon the 
upper benches is well washed again in larger recep'tacles, as the weight pi'cveuts its being carried off, but 
the poorer and flner part is again exposed to the atmosiih-ore ajul a second time washed on little tables to 
which the ■(\atcr is led through pipes that can bo dii-ected upon any point. The ii'on, some of which is 
from the wear of the stampers, is removed from the fine deposit by a"magnet. Though the separation of 
the gold has been attempted by amalgamation, experience has jn'oved that careful washing is quite as effec- 

* The Ural mountains are notably auriferous on the eastern or Siberian side only, and as far as surveys 
have gone, it would appear that one flank only of the Austrtdian water sheds exhibit rich accumulations of 
gold del)ris, but in this case it is the western or interior side of the I'augc. (Calvert, p. 13G.) 
t Atkinson, p. 173. J Page 208. § Page 305. || Chevalier, p. 83. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



655 



tnal. Special arrangements are made for eontinning this operation through the winter; the windows are 
cai-efully caulked, stoves lieated hj horizontal shafts running below them are prepared for thawing- the fro- 
Keu mud and sand, and the materials passed in to tlio apartment through a narrow trap in the wall or 
the opening of a door would sometimes lower the temperatui'c to the freezing point in a few .Tiinutes. (Vinl. 
1, p. 207.) 

The gold mines of Eussia were opened at lekaterinburg, on the Ural chain, in 174?>, 
and in J752 quartz workings were commenced at Berezov,but the Ural placers first becairio 
important in 1814. The placers of western Siberia were opened in 1H29, and those of east- 
ern Siberia in 1838. The yield is reported* as follows : 

Placer gold from 1814 to 1820 1,085 pounds troy. 

Placer gold from 1820 to 1830 73,200 

PJacer gold from 1830 to 1840 175,460 

Placer gold from 1840tol850 553,955 

Quartz gold from 1752 to 1850 128,570 

Approximate statement of the value of the total annual production of gold and silver in the 
principal countries of the world, during the year 1867. 

[This table is extracted by permission from the unpublished report of Prof. \Vm, P. Blake, 
upcn the "Production of the Precious Metals," from data obtained at the Paris Universal 
Exposition. It is the result of extended investigation of the most recent statistics from all 
parts of the world, and although not yet complete, presents approximately, in round num- 
bers, the value of the gold and silver production of the world. ] 



Country. 


Value. 


Country. 


Value. 




$7-2, 000, 000 

3, COO, 000 

10, 000, 000 

10, 000, 000 

33, 200, 000 
6, 000, OCO 




$15, 200, COO 

10, GOO, 000 

10, 000, 000 
1, OCO, 000 


British Possessions, (estimated for 1867) . 


France, Austria, Saxony, Spain, Italy, 
Great Britain, Norway and Sweden. 

Borneo and the East Indies, China, 
Japan, and Cent'l Asia, (estimatedt) . 


Central and South America, (estimated 






Total 


New Zealand, (estimated for 1867 ) 


171,000 000 







*Wlutney, p. 89. 



t Subject to reviiiioii. 



656 



KESOUECES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



APPENDIX. 



INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE COMMISSIONER OF THE GENERAL LAND OFFICE 
TO THE REGISTERS AND RECEIVERS. 

DEPAllTjrENT OF THE INTERIOR, 

General Land Office, Jamiary 14, 18C7. 

Gentlemen : Hcrcwith ■will be founa the act of Congress, approvcil 2Gth July, 18GG, " granting the right 
of way to ditch and canal owners over the public lands", and lor other purposes'" 

By the first section of this act all the mineral lands of the United States, surveyed and unsurveycd, are 
laid open to " all citizens of the United States, and to those -who have declared their iutentiou to"become 
such, subject to statutory regulations," and also "to the local customs or rules of miners in the several 
mining districts not in conflict with the laws of the United States." 

It therefore becomes your duty, in limine, to acquaint yourselves with the local mining customs and 
usages in the district in which you may be called upon to do those official acts which are required by law, 
whether the same are reduced to authentic written form, or arc to be ascertained by the testimony of intel- 
ligent miners, which you are to obtaiu as occasion may requii-e and justify, in acting upon individual claims, 
a'perfect record whereof is to be carefidly taken and preserved by the register and receiver, and to bo 
accompanied by a diagram or plat fixing' the out bouudai'ics of the district in which such customs and 
usages exist. 

The second section of the act declares that " whenever any person or association of persons claim a vein 
or lode of quartz or other rock in place, bearing gold, silver, ciuuabar, or copper, having previously occu- 
jiied and improved the same according to the local customs or rules of miners in the ilistrict where the 
same is situated, and having expended in actual labor and improvements thereon an amount of not less 
than one thousand dollars, and in regard to whose possession there is no controversy or opposing claim, it 
shall and may be lawful for said claimant, or association of claimants, to file in the local land otBce a dia- 
gram of the same, so extended laterally or otherwise, as to conform to the local laws, customs, and rules of 
miners, and to enter such tract and receive a patent therefor, granting such mine, together with the right 
to Ibllow such vein or lode with its dips, angles, and variations, to any depth, although it may euter the 
land adjoining, which land adjoining shall be sold subject to this condition." 

Mining claims may be entered at any district land office iu the United States under this law by any per- 
son, or association of persons, corporate or incorporate. In making the entry, however, such a description 
of the tract must be filed as will indicate the vein or lode, or part or portion thereof claimed, together witli 
a diagram representing, by reference to some natural or artiiicial monument, the position and location of 
the claim and the boundaries thereof, so far as such boundaries can bo ascertained. 

Firat. In all cases the number of feet iu length claimed on the vein or lode shsdl be stated in the applica- 
tion filed as aforesaid, and the lines liaiiting the length of the claim shall, also, in all cases be exhibited on 
the diagram, and the course or direction of such cud lines, when not fixed by agreement with the adjoining 
claimants, nor by the local customs or rules of the miners of the district, shall be di'awn at right angles to 
the ascertained or apparent general course of the vein or lode. 

Second. Where, by the local laws, customs, or rules of miners of the district, no surface ground is per- 
mitted to be occupied for mining purposes except the surface of the vein or lode, and the walls of such vein 
or lode are unascertained and the lateral extent of such vein or lode unknown, it shall be sufficient, after 
giving the description and diagram afores;dd, to state the fact that the extent of such vein or lode cannot 
be ascertained by actual measurement, but that the said vein or lode is bounded ou each side by the waUs of 
the same, and to estimate the amount of ground contained between the given end lines and the unascer- 
tained walls of the vein or lode ; and in such case the patent wOl issue for all the land contained between 
such end lines and side walls, with the right to follow such vein or lode, with all its dips, angles, and varia- 
tions, to any depth, idthough it may enter the land adjoining : Provided, The estimated quantity shall bo 
equal to a horiiiontal plane, bounded by the given end lines, and the walls on the sides of such vein or lode. 

Third. Where, by the local laws, customs or rules of miners of the district, no surface ground is per- 
mitted to be occupied for mining purposes, except the surface of the vein or lode, and the walls of such vein 
or lode are ascertained and well known, such wall shall be named iu the description, and marked on the 
diagram, in connection with the cud lines of such claims. 

Fourth. Where, by the laws, customs, or rules of miners of the district, a given quantity of surface 
ground is fixed for the iiurpose of mining or miUing the ore, the aforesaid diagram and description in the 
entry shall correspond with and include so much of "the sm-facfe as shall be allowed by such laws, customs, 
or rules for the purpose aforesaid. 

Fifth. In the absence of unifonn rules in any mining district limiting the amouut of surface to be used 
for mining purposes, actual and peaceable use and occupation for mining and milling purposes, shall be 
regarded as evidence of a custom of miners authorizing the same, aud the gi-ound so occupied and usedin 
connection with the veiu or lode, and being adjacent thereto, may be included within the entry aforesaid, 
and the diagram shall embrace the same as appurtenant to the mine. 

Where the claimant or claimants desu-e to include within their entry and diagram any surface ground 
beyond the surface of the vein, it shall bo necessary, upon filing the application, to furnisu the register of 
the land office with proof of the usage, law, or cus'tom under which he or they claim such surface ground, 
and such evidence may consist cither of the written rules of the miners of the district, or the testimony of 
two credible wituesses'to the uniform custom or the actual use and occupation as aforesaid, which testimony 
shall bo reduced to -nriting by the register and receiver, and tiled in the register's office, with the appli- 
cation, a record thereof to 'be made as contemplated under the first head in the foregoing. 

By the third section of the act, it is requii-ed that upon the filing of tlie diagram, as provided in the second 
section, and postiug the same in a conspicuous place ou the claim, with notice of intention to apply for a 
patent, the register shall publish a notice of the same in a newspaper nearest the location of said claim, 
which notice shall state name of the claimant, name of mine, names of adjoining claimants on each end of 
the claim, the district and country iu which the mine is situated, informing the public that application h;us 
been made for a patent for same; "the register also to post such notice in his office for ninety days. 

Thereafter, should uo adverse claim have been filed, and satisfactory proof should be produced that the 
diagTam and notice liavc been posted in the manner aud for the period stipulated in the statute, it will 
become the duty of the survevor general, upon application of the party, to survey the premises, and make 
plat thereof, indorsed with liis approval, designating the number and description of the location, the 
value of the labor and im|)rovements, and the character of the vein exposed. As preliminaiy to the survey, 
However, the surveyor general must estimate the expense of surveying, platting, and ascertain from tho 
register the cost of the publication of notice, the amoiuit of all of which must be deposited by the applicajit for 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 657 

Burvey with any assistant United States treasurer, or designated depositary in favor of the United States 
trcasiu-er, to be passed to the credit of the fund created by "individual depositors for the surveys of tlie 
public lands." Duplicate certificates of such deposits must be filed with the surveyor general for trans- 
mission to this oince, as in the case of deposits for surveys of public lands under the lUth section of tlu 
uct of Congress approved May 30, 1862, and joint resolution of July 1, 18(J4. 

After the survey thus paid "for shall have been duly executed, and the plat thereof approved by the sur 
veyor general, designating the number and the description of the location, accompanied by his officia} 
certificate of the value of the labor and improvements, and character of the vein expo.sed, with the testi- 
mony of two or more reliable persons, cognizant of the facts on which his certificate may be founded, as to 
the value of the labor and improvements, the party claiming shall file the same ^^'ith the register and recei;'er, 
and thereupon pay to the said receiver |.j per acre for the premises embraced in the survey, and shall filo 
with those oflicers a triplicate certificate of deposit, showing the payment of the cost of survey, plat, and 
notice, with satisfactory evidence, which shall be the testimony of at least two credible witnesses,"tliat the 
diagram and notice were posted on the claim for a period of ninety days, as required by law, and as con- 
templated in the foregoing. Thereupou it shall be the duty of the register to transmit to tlic General Land 
Oflice said plat, survey and description, with the proof indorsed as satisfactory by the register and receiver, 
so that a patent may issue if the proceedings are found regular, but neither the plat, sm'vey description, nor 
patent shall issue for more than one vein or lode. 

The unity of the sm-veying system is to be maintained by extending over the mining districts the rectan- 
gular method, at least so far as township lines are concerned. 

The coutemplated surveys of the mineral lands will be made by the district deputies, under contracts, 
according to the mode adopted in the survey of the public lands and private laud claims, embracing in them 
aU such veins or lodes as will bo called for by claimants entitled to have them surveyed. 

In consideration of the very limited scope of sm-veying involved in each mining claim, the per mileage 
allowed by law may not be adequate to secui-e the services of scientific surveyors, and hcuco the necessity 
of resorting to a per diem principle, it being the most equitable under the circumstances. 

The surveyor general is therefore hereby authorized to commission resident mineral surveyors for differ- 
ent districts, where isolated from each other, and absolutely inconvenient for oue surveyor promptly to 
attend to the several calls for sm'veying in such localities, the compensation not to exceed $10 per diem, 
including all expenses incident thereto. Such surveyors shall enter into bonds of §10,000 for the faithful 
performance of their duties in the survey of such claims as the sm-veyor general may bo requii'ed to execute 
in pm'suanco of the aforesaid law and these instructions. 

Tiic fourth section contemplates the location and entry of a mine upon unsurveyed lands, stipulating for 
the surveys of public lauds to be adjusted to the lines of the claims, according to the location and possession 
and plat thereof. In surveying such claims, the suiTCyor general is authorized to vary fi'om the rectangular 
form to suit the circumstances of the country, local rules, laws, customs of miners. The extent of the 
locations made from and after the passage of the act shall, however, not exceed 200 feet in length along tho 
vein for each locator, ■\^ith an additional claim for discovery to the discoverer of the lode, ■«'ith the liglit to 
follow sucli vein to any depth, with all its dips, variations and angles, together wit'h a reasonable quantity 
of surlace for tho convenient working (jf the same as fixed by local rules": ' Provided, no person may make 
more than one location on the same lode, and no more than 3,000 feet shall be taken in any one claim by any 
association of persons 

Tho deputy surveyers should be scientific men, capable of examining and reporting fully on every lodo 
they wUl survey, and to bring in duplicate specimens of the ore, one of which you will send to this office, 
and the other the sm-veyor general wUl keep, to be ultimately turned over with the sm-veying wehives to 
tho State authorities. 

Tho surveyors of mineral claims, whether on surveyed or unsurveyed lands, must dtisignate those claims 
by a progTessive series of numbers, beginning with No. 37, so as to avoid interference in that respect with 
the regular sectional series of numbers in each township ; and shall designate the four corners of each claim, 
where the side lines of the same are known, so that such corners can be given by either trees, if any are 
found standing in place, or any corner rocks exist in place, or posts may be set diagonally and deeply 
imbedded, with four sides /acinr; adjoining claims, sufficiently flattened to admit of inscriptions thereon; 
but where tho corners arc imknown, it ■n'Ul be sufficient to place a well-built solid mound at each end of tlio 
claim. The beginning corner of tho claim nearest to any corners of tho public surveys is to bo counceted 
by com'se and distance, so as to ascertain tho relative position of each claim In referenee to township and 
range when tho same have been smweyed ; but iu those parts of the surveying district where no such line.s 
have as yet been extended, it wiU be the duty of surveyors general to have the same surveyed and maikeil, 
at least so far as standard and township lines are concerned, at the per mileage allowed, so as to cmbr.aco 
the mineral region, and to connect the ueai-est corners of the mineral claims with the corners of the public 
surveys. 

Should it, however, bo found impracticable to establish independent base and meridian lines, or to extend 
township lines over the region containing mineral claims required to be surveyed under the law, then, and 
in that case, you will cause to be surveyed in the first instance such a claim, the initial point of wliich wiU 
start either from a confluence of waters, or such natm'al and permanent objects as will unmistakably identify 
the point of the beginning of tho survey of the claim upon which other surveys will depend. 

Section 5 provides that iu cases where tho laws of Congress are silent uponthe subject of rules for working 
mines, respecting easements, drainage, and other necessary means to the complete development of the same, 
the local legislature of any State or Territory may provide them, and in order to embody such enactments, 
into patents you are directed to communicate any "such laws to this office. 

Section 6. Should adverse claimants to any mine appear before the approval of tho survey, aU further 
proceedings shall be stayed until a final settlement and adjudication arc had in the courts of the right of 
possession to such claim, except where the parties agree to settlement, or a portion of the premises is not ia 
dispute, when a patent may issue as iii other cases. 

Section 7 provides for such additional land districts as may be necessary. 

Section 8, for the right of way. 

Section 9, for protection of rights to the use of water for mining, agricultural, manufacturing, or other 
purposes ; for the right of way for the construction of ditches and canals ; and makes parties constructing 
such work (after the passage of this act,) to the injm-y of settlers, liable in damages. 

Section 10. Homesteads may, prior to the passage of this act, by citizens of the United States, or persons 
who have declared theh- intention to become citizens, but on which lands no valuable mines of gold. sil\er, 
cinnabar, or copper have been discovered, are protected, so that settlers or owners of such homesteads shall 
have a right of pre-emption thereto, in quantity not to exceed ICO acres, at §1 25 per acre, or to avail them- 
selves of the homestead act and acts amendatorv thereof. 

Section 11 stipulates that upon the survev of the lands in question the Secretai'y of the Interior may set 
apart such portions as are clearly agricultui-al, and thereafter subjects such agricultural tracts to pre-emption 
and sale, as other public lands. 

In order to enable the department properly to give effect to this section of the law, you wOl cause your 
deputy surveyors to describe in theii- field notes of surveys, in addition to the data reuuired.to be noted in, 

42 



658 



EESOURCES OP STATES AND TERRITORIES 



tlic printocl Manual of SiuTcying Instructions, on pages 17 and 18, the agricultural lands, and represent the 
same on township plats by the designation of "agricultural lands." 

It is to be understood that there is nothing obligatory on claimants to proceed under this statute, and that 
where they fail to do so, there being no adverse interest, they hold the same relations to the premises they 
may bo working which they did before the passage of this act, with the additional guarantee that they 
pos'sess the i-ight of occupancy under the statute. 

The foregoing presents such views as have oceuiTcd to this oflfice in considering the prominent points of 
the statute, and will be followed by fm-ther instructions as the rulings in actual cases and experience in the 
admiuistr:,tion of the statute may from time to time suggest. 

Very respectfidly, yom- obedient servant, 

JOS. S. WILSON, Commissioner. 

TJ. S. Kegisteus and Eeceiveks axd Surveyors General. 



SUPPLEMENTARY INSTRUCTIONS. 

Departjient of the Interior, General Land Office, June 2.5, 1867. 

Gentlemen : In the preparation of forms adapted to the purchase of mineral interests under the act of Julv 
20, ISliH, it is found necessary, in connection with circular of January 14, 18U7, to dii'ect youi' attention to the 
following : 

1st. Where the rules of miners do not jjcnnit ground to be occupied, except the surface of the vein or 
lode, the claims presented may contain less than an acre of ground. In such cases, as we do not, in regard 
to rates, deal with a fraction, the price of f5 is to be paid'for the same; if the ai'ca exceeds that cxuautity, 
$10 ; if more tlian two acres, $!i.5, and so on. 

2d. In applications fi>r mineial claims it will be necessary, where a claim contains less than one acre, th.'.i 
the agreement expressed should be to pay $5 for the claim. 

3d. "Should a party appear as an "adverse claimant," as contemplated by the 6th section of the act, you 
will re(iuire such person to show by proof the claim or interest he may have in the mine ; and should the same 
be satisfactory to j-ou, all further proceedings will be stayed until a final settlement and adjudication shall be 
had in the courts. But in case the adverse claimant, after proceedings have been stayed, shall fail to insti- 
tute action in the courts, cither pending or at their next ensuing session, with a view to the final adjustment 
of tlie claims, you will proceed with the case as if no ol)jections had been filed. 

4tli. You will enter all claims tiiulcr the act in separate f ract-books from those used for agricultural lands, 
dividing tlic books into townships and ranges, allowing about eight pages to each township. 

For the present you will use the blank form of Abstracts of Land Sold and Register of Keceipts in report- 
ing returns, making such slight alterations in the headings as the cases may demand. Should it be found 
advisable in the future to have special abstracts, forms will oe prepared and printed and a supply duly trans- 
mitted to you. 

You will commence a new series of numbers with the certificates — beginning with No. 1 — and continue 
the same in regular order. As no special fee is provided for in the statute, you wiU be allowed one per cent, 
each on amount of pm-chase-money, as in cash sales. The moneys received for these claims will be accounted 
for in the receiver's returns as cash received for sale of mineral claims. 

Forms of applications, certificates, and receipts are being printed, and a supply wiU be sent as soon as 
possible. 

I also append an abstract of duties prescribed in instructions of 14th January, 1867. 
Very respectfully, 

JOS. S. WILSOiSr, Commissioner. 

Eegisteu and Receivtjr. 



Abstract of Duties. — The following is an abstract of the duties prescribed in mineral 
instructions of January 14, 18t)7: 

Claimant. — To post a notice on the claim giving information of his intention to apply for a patent ; to file 
a diagram with tliv register, together with the eviueuce of the rules of miners in support of the claim and 
its extent. After the'diagram and notice have been posted 90 days, and no adverse claim filed, the claimant 
to apply to surxi'vor general for survey of the claim, deposit the amount estimated by the surveyor general 
to cover the expenses of the survey, platting, and notice with any assistant United States treasurer or 
designated deixisiiory in favor of the United States Treasurer, to be passed to the credit of the fund created 
by ""individual l>cpositors for the Surveys of the Public Lauds," taking duplicate certificate of deposit — 
filing one with surveyor general, to be sent to the General Land Office, and retaining the other; and when 
the survey is ajiproveil and diagram thereof, together with the surveyor general's certificate as to improve- 
ments and character of the vein exposed, the claimant to pay to the receiver the price of the claim. 

Eegisteii and Keceiveu. — To examine testimony filed by claimant showing the applicability of ininers' 
rules in reference to the extent of the claim, which testimony is to be reduced to writing and filed with the 
claimant's application in the register's oflice; also to examine the retm'us of sm'vey approved by the 
surveyor genera! and filed by the claimant. 

Receiver. — To receive from the claimant the price of the claim on his filing with the register and receiver 
the approved plat and certificnte of the surveyor general as to the value of the improvements and chai'ccter 
of vein exposed, based on testimony by two reliable witnesses. 

Register's diagram of the claim'beiug filed by the claimant, the register shall publish a notice in a news- 
paper nearest to the, claim, naming the mine, claimant, adjoining claimants, district, and county, informing 
the public that application has lircn made for a patent. The register will post the notice in his office for 9!) 
days, and on the pulilislier's presenting his account to the register immediately on the expiration of the 90 
days, he will transmit it to the surveyor general ; and on the receipt from the claimants of the surveyor 
general's certificate of the improvements on the claim, together with plat and other evidences of the survey 
approved, also the receiver's receipt for the payment for the claim, the register will transmit same, with 
proof, indorsed l)y register and receiver as satisfactory, to the Commissioner of the General Land Office 
lor patent. 

Surveyor General's duty when no adverse claim is filed, proof fm-nished that the diagram and notice 
had been posted for 90 days, 'and on receiving, also, from the register the account of the publisher of the 
notice : The surveyor general, when applied to by the claimant for the survey of his claim, shall estimate 
the expense of the siu'vev, platting, and notice, "and when a certificate of deposit is filed with him by the 
claimant, ho shall order the sui'vey to be made, and transmit the certificate of deposit to the General Land 



WEST OF THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 659 

Office. "WTicn the returns of survey are made to the surveyor general's office lie will approve the same, 
hand the necessary evidence thereof to the claimant, to be filed by him in the register and receiver's office 
for examination and final preparation of patent-certificate by the' register for transmission to the Commis- 
sioner t)f the General Land Office. The surveyor general will also transmit returns of the sm'vey to the 
Commissioner, with the account of the surveyor and that of the publishers of the notice, for direct payment 
from United States treasury to parties entitled, as in tlie ease of payments made out of the funds deposited 
under the 10th section of the act of Congress approved May 30, 1862, and joint resolution of Juno 1, 1864. 

Legislation in regard to the Mineral Interests. — The Commissioner of the Gen- 
eral Land Office, in his annual report for 1856, gives the following condensed summary of 
the legislation by Congress in regard to the mineral interests : 

The mineral interests in the public lands have been the subject of legislation during a period of 81 years. 
The ordinance of 20th of May, 178.5, reserved one-third part of all gold, silver, lend, and copper mines ; the 
act of 3d of March, 18G7, dealt with lead mines ; the enactment of 3d of March, 1809, authorized their sale 
in Missouri; the pre-emption act of 4th of September, 1841, excluded from its provisions known salines or 
mines; the act of July 1, 18(!4, requires coal lands which, as mines, arc excluded from the pre-emption of 
1841, to be offered at $20 minimum, making them pre-emptible at that rate. 

In the case of the IJnited States vs. Gear, 3 Howard, 1845, it was held that it was not intended to subject 
lead mines to ordinary sale or pi'c-eraption in certain districts created by act of 2Gth of June, 1 831. 

In Attorney Gener.al's opinion, dated April 18, 184f>, respecting mineral lands on Isle Hoyal, in Lake Supe- 
rior, it was stated that "salines, gold, sUver, lead, and copper mines " were reserved for "futm'e disposal of 
Congress." 

The act of July 11, 1846, required the lead mines in Illinois, Arkansas, Missouri, and Iowa to be offered, 
interdicting pre-emption until after offering, and then at a minimum of |2 .50 per acre, but if not taken at 
private entiy Avithin a year of the public sale, to be subject to sale as other lands. 

The act of 1st of March, 1847, in creating the Lake Superior district and directing geological survey, 
authorizes the sale of lands containing "copper, lead, or other valuable ores." with •$.■> per acre minimum. 

The act of 3d of March, 1847, for organizing the Chippewa district, Wisconsin, and also authorizing 
geological survey, awards the privilege of purchase, at $T) per acre, to oceupants at the date of the law, the 
supervision of mines, by act of 3d of llarcli, 1849, having been transferred to the Secretary of the Interior. 

In opinion of 28th of'August, 18.50, the Attorney General held that lands containing "ii-ou ore merely" 
arc not the " mineral lands " referred to in the 2d section of said act of 1st of March, 1847. 

By the law of 26th of September, 1850, miuej'al tracts in Lake Superior and Chippewa districts were to be 
disiiosed of as other public lands. 

The act of September 27, 1850, creating the office of surveyor general of Oregon and making donations, 
excludes "mineral lands" or reserved salines. By the treaty of 1851 with Peru, Peruvians are allowed to 
work for gold in California ; the third section of act March 3, 1853, for the surveys in that State allowing 
only " township " lines to be extended over lands miueral or unfit for cultivation ; the sixth section excepting 
mineral tracts from pre-emption. 

The act of July 22, 18.54, establishing the offices of surveyors general of New Mexico, Kansa.s, and 
^Nebraska, excludes from the privileges it concedes to individuals "mineral or school lands, salines, militaiy 
or other reservations." 

The Attorney General's opinion of February 14, 1860, states that Congress had not then made any pro- 
Tision concerning mineral lands in California, except reserving from pre-emption and donation. 

The act of July 1, 1864, for the disposal of coal land and town property, allows coal lands not liable under 
past legislation to ordinary private entry to be taken or pre-empted at 120 minimum per acre. 

The act of July 4, 1866, "giving authority for varying smTcys in Nevada from "rectangular form to suit 
the circumstances of the country," reserves from sale, "in all cases, lands valuable for mines of gold, silver, 
quicksilver, or copper." 

The last and most important expression of the public will in these respects is found in the act of Congress 
approved July 26, 1866, chapter CCLXII, which declares that " the miueral lands of the public domain, both 
surveyed and unsurveyed," are "to be free and open to exploration and occupation by all citizens of the 
United States, and those declaring their intention to become citizens, subject to such regulations as may be 
prescribed by law," and " subject, also, to the local customs or rules of miners in the several mining districts, 
so far as the same may not be in conflict with the laws of the United States." 



IMPORTANCE OF A NATIONAL SCHOOL OF MINES. 

At no period in our history has there existed a greater necessity for an increase in the pro- 
duction of bullion than at present. The ablest intellects of the country have been for some 
time past directed to the subject of our financial condition. Already numerous schemes have 
been presented to Congress for the maintenance of our credit at home and abroad, and vari- 
ous projects having in viewr a reduction of the burden of taxation will doubtless be discussed 
during the present session. Considering the great importance of the mining interest in this 
connection, it seems singular that the annual decrease in our product of bullion for the last 
few years has attracted so little attention. According to a statement in the President's mes- 
sage, " the production of precious metals in the United States from 1849 to 18.37, inclusive, 
amount to $579,000,000; from 1858 to 1860, inclusive, to $137,500,000; and from 1861 
to 1867, inclusive, to $457,500,000 — making the grand aggregate of products since 1849, 
$1,174,000,000." This estimate certainly does not exceed the amount actually produced.* 
But the returns of the principal mining States and Territories will show that for several years 
past there has been a gradual decline. 

Thus California produced in 1853 as high as $57,330,030, as shown by the manifest of 
bullion export from San Francisco. The actual production for that year probably exceeded 
$60,000 000. In 1865 the yield was $30,986,530 ; in 1866, $26,500,000 ; and in 1867, as esti- 
mated, $25,000,000. Nevada, a silver-producing State, has increased somewhat during the 
past three years, but all the other mining States and Territories have fallen off. The best 

* The special commissioner, in his letter to the Secretary of the Treasury, (p. 6,) estimates the total product 
at $1,255,000,000. 



660 EESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

authorities estimate the yield of Montana as follows: 18G2, $500,000; 1863, $8,000,000; 1864, 
$13,000,000; 1865, $14,500,000; 18G6, $16,500,000; 1867,12,000,000. The maximum esti- 
mate for Colorado in 1863 was $9,000,000; in 1864, $8,000,000; in 1865, $4,500,000; in 
1866, less than $3,000,000 ; and the probable yield for 1867 will not exceed $2,500,000. The 
product of Idaho for 1866 is estimated by good authorities at $8,000,000. This year (1867) 
it scarcely exceeds $6,000,000. Arizona now produces comparatively notliinf^. Notwith- 
standing these discouraging facts, so far from any diminution in the source of supply, recent 
explorations have developed the fact that our great mineral bells extend over a much larger 
area^than was ever before supposed. The supply, in short, is inexhaustible. As yet it has 
scarcely been tapped. Why, then, should our annual product be on the decline? Because, 
in the first place the surface diggings very soon yield their maximum, and can never be 
relied upon as a permanent source of supply ; and in the next, vein or quartz mining is of slow 
development, and requires capital and skill. 

Assuming our total yield for 1867 to be, in round numbers, $75,000,000, and the average 
loss arising from imperfect systems of reduction to be 25 per cent., we have a total loss on 
gold and silver combined of $^5,000,000. By the judicious application of science to the busi- 
ness of mining, and especially to the treatment of the ores, at least $15,000,000 of this amount 
might be saved. But this statement of loss is confined to ores actually taken out of the 
ground and worked. No account is taken of the vast quantity of ore cast aside as too poor 
to justify the expense of working irnder the present costly methods, or of the innumerable 
mineral lodes now practically valueless, which, in any country possessing first-class mining 
schools, would be inexhaustible sources of wealth. Nor does the estimate embrace the 
immense losses to which miners are subject from the erection of unsuitable machinery and 
from ignorance of the chemical composition of the ores and the process of reduction applica- 
ble to each class. The same ores are worked by different systems in mills located within a 
stone's throw of each other, and yet no record is kept of the depth from which they are taken, 
what the yield is by one system as compared with another, or under what combination of 
circumstances the best results are obtained. On the Comstock lode 500 tons of ore, it is said, 
are worked daily with the aid of blue vitriol and salt, at an expense for these two articles 
alone of $118,800 per annum. Some mills use double as much on the same kind and quantity 
of ores as others. Who can tell the result? Both cannot be right, and yet the mine and 
mill owners have a direct pecuniary interest in knowing why and to what end these things 
arc done. 

With all the experience gained in the treatment of silver ores since the discovery of the 
Comstock lode, there are still many important questions to be solved. This can only be done 
by experiments systematically conducted, and by repeated and careful comparisons of prac- 
tical results. Among the subjects for investigation, and the questions which either cannot 
be or have not been determined by private enterprise, are the following, submitted by the 
distinguished metallurgist, Mr. Guido Kiistel : 

1. Wliethci' the use of blue vitriol in iron pans, for the piu-pose of decomposing silver ores, is necessary; 
and, if so, in -what proportion, and with reference to what sih-er combinations ? Gould & Curry mUl aloiio 
S]>ciit 117,588 for blue vitriol, iu 18(56, on 36,000 tons of ore. The same mine expended §35,000 for quicksilver. 
A great part of the loss in quicksilver is due to the use of blue vitriol. The question is, whether this loss 
was justified by the gain in silver, and to what extent that gain resulted from the chemical action of the 
^•itriol ou sulphurets ? There are no figures to solve this problem. Taking the low estimate of 500 tons of 
Comstock ore worked daily with the use of blue vitriol and salt, and cornparing the consumption of these 
chemicals iu the Gould &. Cui'ry mills with the total consumption upon that basis, for a year's manipulatiou 
of 300 days, it would be equal to 150,000 tons, worked at an expense of over $118,800 for the vitriol and salt 
alone. Now, it is more thau probable that a careful investigation of the subject would result iu the saving 
of t«o-thu'ds of this expense. Some mills use twice as much vitriol and salt as others on the same kind o'f 
ore, takeu from the same depths and sometimes from the same mines. Both cannot be right. The product 
alone does not determine the question. Expense must be considered ; but at present there is no comparison 
of results, nor is there any way of arriving at the facts from the books of the mills. 

~'. Whether the addition of salt for the same purpose is required J Gould & Curry expended for this article 
alone, in 186G, $10,943. Contradictory views are entertained ou this subject, but there is no exact data upou 
whicli to determine the question satisfactorily. 

3. Whether the iron pau decomposes silver ores for itself, without quicksilver ; and, if it does, what kind 
of silver ores? 

4. Which process of amalgamation for silver ore is, for the length of time and expense, most economical— 
baiTcl or pau amalgamation J and what is the loss of quicksilver in both cases, and the comparative loss in 
each t 

5. To determine which of the various methods of extracting gold from its ores now or heretofore prae- 
ticeil iu the Uuited States is the best, and whether better methods exist iu Europe, South America, Mexico, 
or elsewhere. 

6. What method of concentration is most proper and economical with reference to different ores ; what 
machines are best ; what is the comparative efficiency of difierent machines and inventions ? What is the 
iiiotive power required, and the wood and water consumption of each? In Austria, under authority and 
at the expense of the government, special attention is given to the solution of all such (juestions as these ; 
also, to some extent, iii Saxony. The best and only work on concentration was published in Vienna ; another 
is in com'se of preparation at Freiberg. No independent work of this kiud, devoted specially to this sub- 
ject, exists in the English language.* 

The Hale &. Norcross mine, one of the best managed on the Comstuck lode, had a lot of 
15,639 tons of ore worked at 14 different mills during a portion of the past and present year, 
the assay value of which, according to their books, was $465,190 in gold; $822,942, silver; 

*Mr. Ktistel has siace published at San Francisco a very able and elaborate work on Concentration. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 661 

total, $1,288,132; amount produced, $397,157, p:old ; $419,819, silver; total, omitting frac- 
tions, $816,975; loss, $471,155. [See section XVII, table No. 2, p. 376.] This is a favor- 
able example of the work done on the Comstock lode. Not more than 65 per cent, is saved 
on an av^i age of all the ores worked. The returns indicate a yield this year of at least 
$17,000,000. A loss of 35 per cent, would be $9,353,846. This is remarkable on a single 
lode. No nation on earth can furnish such an exampl-e of extravagance. The percentage 
of loss on gold throughout the Pacific States and Territories is not so great as on silver, but 
it is quite suiEcient to merit the most serious consideration. 

The experts engaged in our mines are nearly all foreigners ; we send our young men to the 
schools of Freiberg, Berlin, Paris, Schemnitz, and elsewhere in Europe, to learn that which 
they could much better learn at home, if we had institutions equally thorough and compre- 
hensive. And why should we not have such institutions ? Our mineral resources are of far 
greater magnitude and value than those of any other country. Are we, a progressive people 
in all other respects, to lack in this ? Whilst we are losing 35 per cent, of the product of our 
richest mineral lode by inefficient systems ot working, the entire loss in amalgamation, accord- 
ing to Inspector Winkler, in the treatment of the Freiberg ores — which are far poorer and 
more rebellious than those of the Comstock — ranges from five to nine per cent. Allowing 
for the difi'erence in the cost of labor and material, and for the higher rates of interest on 
capital in our country, this shows a remarkable contrast between the results of misdirected 
energy and the judicious application of science to the practical details of mining and metal- 
lurgy. 

Mr. Rossiter W. Raymond,* editor of the American Journal of Mining, says: 

Statesmen recognize the fact that many things must be done by tlic goTcrnment which ■n'oiild otherwise not 
bo done at all ; that the interests of edne'ation, industrj', and commerce in every jiart of a nation are of vital 
importance to the whole people, and that a wise discretion in such matters is better than blind adherence to any 
political rule. Of course, it is diflicnlt to draw the line between judicious and injutlieious legislation in these 
directions. It is always easier to bo consistent than to be wise. There is no general standard which can be 
applied ; every case must bo judged upon its own merits, and full and thorough discussion must give the answer 
to two all-important questions : first, is the proi)oscd end ouc which concerns the whole nation, or only a part 
of it ? and second, can the benefit desii-ed be obtained as well, or at all, by local legislation or individual enter- 
prise 1 

Mining and agriculture arc the two productive industries npon which the wealth of the world is based. 
Strictly speaking agriculture is the most important, since without it men could not exist ; yet mining is almost 
as essential, since without it there could be no civilization, and men would only exist as savages. There is 
this dilfcrcncc between the tvi-o, that the products of mining are, in general, far more imperishable, and, in 
proportion to their first cost, of greater, because of more prolonged, use to mankind. After centuries of till- 
ing tlie soil, men have no more to cat than at first, and bad crops bring famine and distress. The benefits 
of mining, on the other hand, are cumulative and perpetual. Who can estimate the blessings diffused by a 
ton of iron, mined, smelted, cast or wrought into forms of beauty and usefulness, serving for generations 
the needs of men, and repeatedly reforged, and reappearing, as by a material metempsychosis to enter upon 
new periods of beueficcuec? More ditlieult still is it to measure the importance of gold and silver, the pro- 
duction of whicli, aside from tlieir iutriusic value and their application in tlie arts, is so subtly connected 
with the profoundest problems of commerce and political ecoiU)ray. Philosophers tell us that if we produce 
and mauufacture largely, it is no matter \\hether we have plenty of money or not ; money is nothing but a 
medium of exchange, and, wlien it is scarce, prices will be nomiuallylow, while an increase of money 
nominally raises them, without altering the real relations of labor and A\ealth. But history and d.iily expe- 
rience tell a different story. They show us that tlie world's accepted medium of exchange must bear a cer- 
tain relation to the world's amount of business ; and that, in spite of all contrivances of credit, barter, and 
paper money, the supply of the precious metals is of vital importance to all commercial nations. This con- 
viction is the source of the universal principle of law that the mineral resources of a country, especially its 
mines of gold and silver, are tlic lu'opcrty of the wliolo country — represented in some states by tlie crown, 
and in others by the general govern men t. AVe have no fault to' liud with the American doctrine on that sub- 
ject, which throws open to individual enterprise these sources of national wealth, but it is a question whether 
individuals should be allowed to ruin, by ignorant and wasteful management, the endowment which nature 
has established for snceeeding ages as well as the present, and of which, in a certain sense, we are the trustees 
for posterity. It is by no means Inditl'ercnt to us all, wlietlier the mines of the "West arc skilfully and eco- 
nomically worked or not, whether .';!i.(IUO.000 of silver a year arc lost, never to bo recovered, by the methods 
of treating the ores of the Comstock lode, whether five" dollars are wasted for every dollar extracted from 
the sulphurets of Colorado. Tl-.ese losses are so much robbery of our children ; and it is eminently within 
the province of the government to preserve the mineral resources of the country, just as it will be impera- 
tively called upon, before many years have passed, to jirevent tlie destruction of "its timber. Statistics show 
that," for several years, our in-oductiou of gold and silver has been decliiung. Tliere is no great cause for 
alarm in this fact alone. The years of greatest production were those in which superficial deposits were 
worked by rude methods, and since that time the business of mining has grown more dilfieult aiul expen- 
sive, while the number of miners has grown smaller. It is not the diiuinisr.ed production, but tl;e increased 
waste, which is alarming. All the indications are that individual mine owners will not, or cannot, refoiTn 
this evil. They lack the necessary knowledge, and the means of obtaining it. In vain our young men crowd 
the excellent schools of Paris, Freiberg, and Berlin. They need years of instrnction hero to make their 
European education available; for those branches of metallurgy which arc most widely practiced in this 
couiitrv are tlio ones most scantily known and taught in Eurojie. 

Information is the least debt which the government owes to its citizens engaged in this work. And there 
is a special reason why this information should be nationally given. The diliiculties and interests of mines 
are universal. The man who is crushing quartz in Vermont and the man who is crushing (piartz in Cali- 
fornia would gladly have a common centre for the exchange of their experiences and tlie instruction of tlieir 
jcjnorance. The farmers of the land need such an institution much less, yet they have it in the Agricultural 
Bureau. To a Bureau of Minini>-, under' competent direction, there is no reasonable objection, except one. 
An eflicient Bureau of Mining" is an impossibility. In the first place, its location at "Washington would 
defeat its object; and its location away from "Washington would deprive it of tlie distinctive character and 
dependence of a bm-eau, and leave it without any individuality or vigor at all. In the second place, a 

* Recently appointed special commissioner for the collection of mining statistics, -lice J. Eoss Browne, 
appointed minister to China. 



662 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

bureau is not a profrrcssivc institution. Tlic best savant in the world, put into a bureau, is liable to ciys- 
tallizc just Ti-horo he is, and never groir any more. The only way to seciu-e vitality and prof^ess in suehan 
establishment is to make it a school. Only a school can be in constant communication with practical men. 
People vrill not spontaneously write to a mere bureau, Ijut the graduates of a school keep up relations with 
their former comrades and teachers as long as they live. 

If, then, the government is to spread among the people that necessary information on the subject of 
mining and metallurgy, the slow acquisition "of which is costing us so many mUlious every year, and 
wasting our resources for the years to come, there is no better way thau to establish such a school as Sen- 
ator Stewart proposes, aud make it, as it ought to be, the foremost in the world. 

The Secretary of the Treasury deems the establishment of a national mining school a 
matter of sufficient importance to give it favorable notice in his recent report. After detailed 
reference to the labons of the special commissioner he says : 

Under the most favorable circumstances, such a drain upon our resources as that to which attention is 
now called would appear to demand the serious consideration of government. The special commissioner 
recommends, as the only possible remedy, the establishment at some central point west of the Eocky moun- 
tains of a national mining scliool, organized upon comprehensive pi'inciples, analogous in its general design 
and scope to tlic great mining schools of Europe. By the coneentratiou of scieutiiic experience uiiou 
tlie processes of mining and metallurgy, and the analytical aud working tests that could be applied to 
the dilFcreut oros, where individual enterprise has so long and so signally faOed, it is believed the results 
■would be beueticial. Witliout assuming to suggest by what means this object could be best accomplished, 
the Secretary deems it due to the enterprising pioneers of the west, who have opened up a vast empire to 
settlement and civilization, that their wishes, as represented by the commissioner, should meet with the 
most favorable consideration. "Whatever can be done to promote their welfare will be a national bcnetit, 
and none A\ill question that tlic tendeuey of scientific institutions is to strengthen the bonds of interest and 
sympathy between a people separated by a diversity of pursuits and the circumstances of their geographical 
position. 

Diiferences of opinion may exist as to the means proposed, but it cannot be denied that 
the Secretary's views on the subject are just and liberal, and merit the favorable considera- 
tion of Congress. 

A policy is presented, in the bill recently introduced by Mr. Stevrart of Nevada, which 
it is estimated will increase the annual bullion product to more than $200,000,000 
within a few years. Now is the time for intelligent action on the subject. The Pacific 
railroad is opening np direct and easy communication with the great interior of the conti- 
nent. Our mineral resources are practically without limit. More than nine-tenths of the 
mines discovered and proved to be valuable are now lying dormant. The question is, wilt 
government lend its aid to their development, or be content to ignore this great interest I 
So far, individual energy has failed to accomplish the objects contemplated in Mr. Stewart's 
bill. Possibly the miners may be more successful hereafter thau they have been for the past 
two or three years ; but the history of mining in other countries does not sustain that hope 
with reference to a more profitable treatment of the ores, or to the development of mineral 
lodes now unproductive, or, indeed, to any of the objects designed to be accomplished by 
the establishment of a national school of mines. It is clear, then, that imless some action is 
taken on the subject by our government, past experience does not warrant us in expecting 
an increase of the bullion product in the future. 

Mr. Louis A. Gavnett, formerly melter and refiner in the United States branch mint, and 
at iiresent manager of the San Francisco Assaying and Refining Works, says, in a printed 
letter to the Secretary of the Treasury, that it costs in labor alone $1 80 for every dollar pro- 
duced from our mines. Ho bases this estimate upon a population of 100,000 men engaged 
directly in mining, at the minimum wages of $3 per day for 300 days, and upon a product 
of $50,000,000. A mining population of &0,000, engaged in actual labor in the luines at $!4 
per day for 250 days, would probably bo nearer the facts. This v.'ould give a result of 
$50,000,000 as the cost for labor alone. Add for current expenses of management, wear and 
tear of machinery, material, &c., $25,000,000, and you have a total cost, without calculating 
interest on capital, of $75,000,000 to produce $75,000,000, the maximum estimate for this 
year ; in other words, it costs a dollar to produce a dollar. " Upon what principle of politi- 
cal economy," says Mr. Garnett, "a tax upon the mining interest can be justified I confess 
I am imable to discover. It practically amounts to taxing a man for the privilege of work- 
ing at his own expense for the public benefit." If the miners are taxed at all, it would be 
good policy to apply the tax in such a way as to increase the product of bullion ; still better, 
to take the tax oft" altogether, and make a direct and liberal appropriation to carry out the 
object of Mr. Stewart's bill. 

While many attach great value to a national school of mines, there are some who cannot 
see why government might not as well establish a school of agriculture, or a school of com- 
merce, or a school of commercial navigation. In answer to this, it may be said that there is 
a bureau in the Treasury Department specially designed to promote the interests of com- 
merce and navigation. The Coast Survey, the Light-house 13oard, the Consular System, 
the Board of Steam Boiler Inspectors, are all carried on at government expense for the ben- 
eti; of commerce and navigation. The Bureau of Statistics is an important aid to commerce 
aud navigation. Surely these great interests have no cause to complain. What has gov- 
ernment done, on any scale commensurate with these expensive branches of the public 
service, to promote the interest of mining ? Congress has already established a Department 
of Agriculture, and provided by donations of land for " schools of agriculture and the 
mechanic arts." But no mining school has been established by any of the States or Terri- 
tories under the act of 1862. California is about to establish a State university, in which 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 663 

there will probably be a department for instruction in mining, as in some of the colleges of 
the east, with which this donation has been consolidated. Something, of course, will be 
gained by such elementary instruction, b>it these miscellaneous institutions can never prove 
a substitute for a great central mining school, devoted exclusively to mining. As for com- 
merce, it will take care of itself, with all other schools for the promotion of industry and the 
products of the earth to sustain it. 

Senator Stewart, in his able and elaborate speech of January IG, 1888, says : 

Our mines arc the lioritafrc of the -n-holc nation, bougiit and rctainoil at the expense of common blood and 
treasure. Tlie nation is interested in making- them available for great and beneficial inirposes. A debt of 
gratitude is due to the jnonccr wlio has discovered the hidden wealth of that recently unknoivn region of 
the Eoclcy and Sierra Nevada mountains. It is but just that the mines sliould bo free to him. IIo must bo 
rewarded" for liis risks and sacrifices or others irill cease to explore, and discoveries of the precious metals 
will terminate. But it is vandalism to rei[nire men to learn tlio art of mining, not only at tlie sacriiice of 
their own labor and time, but at the expense of millions of dollars in waste of tlie richest ores, while the 
experience of mankiiul is of record and could be made available to all by means of a common centre of 
mining intelligence and instruction. ****** 

TheVc is another important argument in favor of the development of our mines. The region of country 
in which they arc situated is far removed from market, and the agricultural resources of'thcmselves arc 
insutlicient to induce settlenients and the development of the fertile valleys and aralile lands wliich we find 
interspersed among the mountains and deserts. The mines fui'uish a ready market, enhance tlie value of 
the lands, Iniild up agricultural communities, induce the construction of railroads and other internal 
improvements, cause the erection of manufactories, school-houses, and chnrches, and attract all the advan- 
tages of civilized society. It is highly important that these mountain valleys should be inhabited. They 
are more hcalthfid and invigorating for the habitations of men than any otlier portions of the United States. 
Tiiere civilization and free institutions will prosper. We want the Pacific and the Atlantic united by a 
continuous line of iiopulation as \yq\\ as by railroads and otlier artificial channels of communication. 

It is unsafe for the Pacific slope, with its genial climate, unbounded resources, and vast commercial 
advantages, soon to be inhabited by many millions of men, to be separated fnnn the Atlantic by hundreds 
of miles of uninhabited country. The prosperity of the mining interests is the only means that will induce 
settlement of the intervening- space and seciu-e its development. 

The following extracts from various eminent authorities are cited in support of the pro- 
posed national school of mines : 

It is with indescribable regret that I have seen the youth of the United States migrating to foreign coun- 
tries, in order to acquire the higher branches of erudition, and to obtain a liuoVledge of the sciences. 
Although it would bo injustice to pronounce the certainty of their military maxims not congenial with 
republicanism, it must nevertheless be admitted that a serious danger is encountered by sending about 
among other political systems those -who have not well learned the value of their own. (President Wash- 
ington to Ilobcrt Brooke, esq.) 

This sjiecies of establishment contributes doubly to the increase of improvement by stimulating to enter- 
prise and experiment, and by dra-n'ing to a common centre the results everywhere of individual skill and 
oliservation, and spreading them thence over the whole nation. Experience accordingly has shown that 
they are very cheap instruments of immense uatioutd benefit. (President Washington's speecli to both 
hou.ses of Congress, December 7, 179fi.) 

It is a consolation to observe that under every zone the cultivation of science and art establishes a certain 
equality among- men, and obliterates, for a time at least, all those petty passions of which the eflects are so 
prejudicial to social liappincss. (Baron Humboldt.) 

Settled by the hard labor of human hands, they (the regions of the West] are now to be settled by the 
labor-saving arts, by machinery, by the steam engine, and'by internal improvements. Hitherto the work to 
be done was that vhicli nothing "but the tough sinews of the arm of man could accomplish. (Edward 
Everett's Orations and Speechcsrvol. 1.) 

Industrial enterprise is c\'ery where stimulated ; the paths of adventure are opened ; the boundless west 
pre\euts the older settlements from being- overstockecl, and gives scope for an unlimited development of 
energy. Education is -n-aiited to enlighten and direct these active, moving powers. Without it, much wild 
vigor will be excited in vain. Energy alone is not enough ; it must be tm-ned to feasible objects, and work 
by sound principles. (Edward Everett's Orations, vol. 2.) 

The history of the progress of the human mind shows ns that, for want of a diffusion of scientific know- 
ledge among practical men, great evils have resulted, both to science and practice. {Edward Everett, vol. 1.) 

If to the ingenuity of the New World, the thoroughness, the patience, and the science of the Old could 
be added, far greater results might be expected tlian'those we now attain. (North American Eeview.) 

Piivate establishments are defective in their constitution, limited in their operation, and incapable, from 
their very nature, of developing and directing and rewarding the indigenous talent of the country. They 
are under no obligation to do the scientific T\ork of the State, or to promote any of those national objects 
which are intrusted to the organized institutions of other lands. (Sii- David Brewster, addi-ess before the 
British Association, July 31, 18.50.) 

It is only exiierience, aided by science, that is rapid in development and certain in action. (Lyon Play- 
fair, C. B.; F. Pv. S.) 

Mining schools have long existed in Erance, Russia, Prussia, Saxony, Austria, Spain, Sweden, and other 
countries even less connected with mining ; and theii- practical value is recognized by the fact that the 
respective governments of these states have found it necessary to develop still fm-tlier the educational 
resources of such institutions. The want of similar establishments in this country has long been felt iu 
mining districts, and has been expressed both in Parliament and in memorials addi-essed to the government. 
In the report of the committee of the House of Lords, (1849,') the committee observed that " among those 
best qualified to speak upon this point, a want appears to be felt of facilities for acquiring raining education, 
such as provided by the mining schools and colleges established in the principal mining clistricts of the con- 
tinent, appai-ently "with the most beneficial elfect." (Prospectus government school of mines, London, 
18.32-3.) 

Looking at the class of men who, in tins kingdom, are intrusted with the direction of collieries and mines, 
we find them, in general, characterized by a remarkable degree of energy and intelligence ; and yet it can- 
not be denied that independently of the losses entafied by the uncertainty of mineral veins, large sums ai-o 
yearly squandered on ill-judged, and sometimes even absurd speculations, which a greater amount of expe- 
rience on the part of the proposer would have taught him to modify or abandon. (Wrightman, Geological 
Survey, Great Britain.) 

It is conceded to agriculture that the fruits of the earth, reproduced annually, can be stimulated by an 
application of acquired knowledge, connected with practical training, upon a farm conducted upon tno 
principles taught, where theory aiid practice are combined. But it is denied to mining, a pursuit iu which 



G64 



EESOUnCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



nature gives but one crop, ■with tlie production of :which man has not assisted, anil where all the knowledge 
demanded is to seciu'c the production at hand by the most expeditious, economical, and safe means which 
cxjierience and science furnish. (Gregory Yale', Titles to Mining- Claims.) 

The arts of mining and geology mutually support and illustrate each other. As the geologist is indebted 
to the labors and obsci-vations of 'the miner for many important facts relative to the formation of the ciiist 
of the earth, so the miner must possess some degree" of geological knowledge if he desii'cs to ascertain the 
jnescnce of useful minerals in his district, such as ores, precious stones, rock salt, &c. He who abandons 
the simple and correct way pointed out by geological experience, runs the risk of groping in conjecture and 
douljt, and this is of particular importance in mining, for it is an enterprise brilliant and full of promise, 
.iiul at the same time expensive, and often illusory. (Professor li. C. Von Leonhaixl, University of Heidel- 
lierg.) 

Of the importance of an increased product of the precious metals there can )3e no question. 
TLb ablest political economists of Europe and America are unanimous upon that point. 

Mr. Seward, in the course of a debate in the Senate shortly after the admission of Cali- 
fornia into the Union, said : 

Tlie objects of the United States in regard to the gold mines in California should be, in the first place, to 
bring to the general public use of the people of the United States the laj-gest possible acquisition of national 
•\\caUh liom theh' newly-discovered fountains ; and secondly, to render the mining operations conducive to 
the best and speediest possil)le settlement of our vast countries on the Pacific coast, which are so soon to 
exercise boundless commercial, social, and political influences over the eastern world. 

Mr. Benton was " decidedly' of the opinion that the United States ought not to undertake 
to make a revenue out of the mines ; that the United States ought to content Jiersolf vv'ith 
getting the wealth out of the bowels of the earth itself." 

Sir Archibald Allison, referring to the wonderful effects of the gold discoveries in Califor- 
nia and Australia, makes use of this emphatic language : 

That which for five and twenty years had been wanting — a cuiTcncy commensurate to the increased num- 
bers and transactions of the civilized world — was now supplied by the beneficent hand of nature. The era 
of a contracted curi'cncy, and consequent low prices and general misery, interrupted by passing gleams of 
prosperity, was at an end. Prices lapidly rose ; wages advanced in' a similar proportion ; exports and 
imports enormously increased, while crime and misery as rapidly diminished. ^ 

Mr. Conness, always earnest in his advocacy of great measures for the development of the 
material resources of the Pacific slope, said, in the course of the debate on the mineral land 

bill: 

I will not undertake to extend this debate or the consideration of this qnestion by entering into an esti- 
mate of what the production of gold costs. It would be mere guessing at best ; but I undertake to say that 
there is no' commodity ^\■hich tlie enterprise and commerce of our country and of the world require so nuich 
as the addition to our circulation of the precious metals. I need not waste a word in stating how it incites 
tli.i trade and commerce of the country, and of the whole ^yorld. 

Mr. Nye said, in the course of the same debate : 

1 beg the Senate to bear in mind the fact that every additional dollar of gold and silver that we produce 
lays the fomidation of our financial structure on a more stable foundation. Let it be known tliat we can 
pi'oduce gold and silver to make our credit always secure and sure, that t!ie interest will be paid in the pre- 
cious metals, and our credit will stand as high if not higher than that of any other nation of the earth. 

Tlie importance of siTch an increase to the United States has been forcibly presented by 
the Committee on Public Lands of tlie House. Mr. Julian, the intelligent chairman of that 
committee, who very ably supported the policy of granting absolute titles in fee to the 
miners, though opposed to tlie form of the bill reported by the Senate committee, says, in a 
report on the mineral lands, dated June 5, 1866 : 

In the judgment of the committee there is very great need of an increase in the quantity of precious 
metals. The disproportion of gold and silver to other values, and to our commercial wants, is very remark- 
able. If prneticable, it should l>e reduced. The property of the United States, within the last ten years, 
has increased about $000,000,000 per year ; and this iueroasc is rstiniatcd to be more tliantwo hundred times 
greoter than the increase of coin during tlic same period. It is l)(^lii'\ rd tliat some policy wliicli will secm'O 
to the government a fresh and libci-al supply of the precious metals will be fomid absolutely necessary. 

Mr. Robert J. Walker, the distinguished statesman and financier, says, in a recent able 
letter : 

All the benefits of skill and experience derived from years of devotion to business pursuits, arc lost 
through fluctuations in the currency, ^^•hieh no sagacity or skill can anticipate. "When we reflect that each 
nation is but a part of the great "community of states, united by ties of commerce, business, and inter- 
changes, and find the rest of the world sustained by a specie currency, which is of uniform, universal inter- 
national value, how can we ■n'ho are dealing witli depreciated ]iaper expect to comi)ete successfully with 
those countries whose money is gold, or its actual eiiuivalent? No nation has ever tried tbis experiment 
■n-itbont vast sacrifices and great failures. So long as t he cuireney of the world is gold, any nation departing 
from tills standard impairs its own power. of successful ccnupetitiou, and gradually drives its products from 
the marlvcts of the world. It is true that it may, to a certain extent, so f;u' as smuggling does not open the 
safety-valve, keep out foreign imports for a time, thereljy anniliilating its expoi'ts; lmti)rices soon rise at 
home in a ratio corresponding with the augmented duties, and, the check becoming inctl'ecuial, is sought to 
be rciuedied by augmented tariffs. It is totally impossilile for a nation like the' Unitfd States to withdraw 
from the business operations of the world, and it is equally impracticable to carry on successful international 
esciianges when the money of the country is depreciated" paper. 

December 2, 1857, Mr. Stewart, United States senator from Nevada, asked, and by unani 
mous consent obtained, leave to bring in the following bill, which was read twice and 
ordered to be printed; December 3, 1867, referred to the Committee on Mines and Mining; 
February '20, 1868, reported by Mr. Stewart, with amendments. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 665 

A BILL to establish a nationnl school of mines. 

Be it enacted hy the Senate and House of Ilepresentativcs of the United States of Avierica in Congress 
assembled, That the tax levied anil collected upon gold aiul silver bullion i" the States and Territories 
situated in whole or in part west of tlio eastern base of the IJoeky motnitains be set apart, so lontv as the 
same shall be collected by the government, as a special I'uiul for the endowment and support of a scliool of 
mines, to be located on the line of the Pacific railroad, west of tlic Kocky mountains, as near as practicable 
to the centre of the mining States and Territories. 

[Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That each State and Territory located in whole or in part west of the 
eastern base of the itocky mountains may appoint one meml)er of a' board of directors, a majority of whom 
shall constitute a quorum ; and in case of failure on the part of any State or Territory so to appoint, the 
President shall appoint such member by and witli the advice and consent of the Senate; but no part of the 
fund herein provided for shall be expended in salaries, travelling or other pcrsoual expenses of the said 
board of directors.] 

Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That the management of the institution shall be under the control of 
eight directors, a majority of whom shall constitute a quorum. The directors shall be selected from the 
raining States and Ten-itorics. and appointed by the President, by and with the advice and consent of tho 
Senate, and shall hold thcLr office for lour years, and until their successors are appointed and (lualilied : Pro- 
vided, That the following named persons shall constitute the board of directors from the lirst day of July, 
anno Domini eighteen hundred and sixty-eight, until Die lir.'^t of July, eighteen hundred and seventy, 
namely: Sherman Day and William Ashburncr, of California ; F. A. Tr'itlo and D. W. "Welty, of Xevada; 

A. C. Gibbs, of Oregon; , of Idaho; A. ,i. Simmons, of Montana; !ind .John Pierce, of Colorado. 

Tn case of failm-e of any of the above-named persons to f;erve, or shoidd a vacancy occur from any other 
cause, the same shall be filled as hereinbefore provided. The directors shall receive no compensation for 
their services, but their actual travelling and other expenses incurred while attending to the business of the 
institution shall 1)0 paid. 

Sec. 3. And bo it further enacted, That tho said board of directors shall have power to make rules and 
regulations for the organization and government of the school; shall appoint its professors, teachers, and 
officers, and exercise supervision andcoutrol over the fund herein appropriated. 

Sec. 4. And be it further enacted. That no professor or teacher [or other ofiicer] of this institution shall 
be removed except upon charges and specifications duly investigated by the board of directors, and the 
decision of the Secretary of tho Treasury, to whom the facts and the evidence shall be reported, shall be 
conclusive. 

Sec. 5. And bo it further enacted. That tuition in this institution shall be free to any citizen of the Uuitcd 
States who may present proper evidences of qualification, to bo determined by the faculty ; and it shall also 
be free to students from other countries, duly recommended by the authorities of tho scliools in which they 
shall have become qualified ; but all expenses for books and st.ationcry, and all personal expenses for lodging, 
subsistence, and travelling, shall be borne by the students themselves. 

Sec. (). A'nd be it further enacted. That tiie primary object of tlie school being an increase of the bullion 
product of the country, by the practical application of science to mining, and the dilFusion of correct 
knowledge among miners as to the best methods of treating the ores, no c^luirge shall be made for assays, 
tests, metallurgical or other experiments, except to cover the actual cost of material used. 

Sec. 7. And be it further enacted. That the Secretary of the Treasury, on ;nid after the first day of July, 
eighteen hundred and sixty-eight, shall set apart the fund hereby appropriated for the purpose named in this 
•let; and ho shall, after receiving a report from the board of directors, locate the school and furnish plans 
and specifications for all necessary buildings and improvements, which shall be plain and substantial, and 
dpou the most economical plan consistent with the purposes of the institution. 

Sec. 8. And bo it further enacted. That in order that the board of directors may be placed in i)osscssion 
of the most approved systems of education, tho Secretary of the Treasury shall cause an examination to be 
made of tho principal mining schools of Europe, and a report to be prepared upoji tiic same, the expense of 
such seiTico to be paid out of the | unexpended Ijalaucc of the appropriation heretofore made for the collec- 
tion of mining statistics] funds of the institution. 

Sec. 9. And be it further enacted. That the duties now performed by the special commissioner appointed 
by the Secretary of the Treasury to collect mining statistics in the States and Territories west of the Ilocky 
mountains, shall, upon the organization and completion of the school of mines created by this act, be per- 
formed under a permanent system by the faculty of said institution, and their report shalfbo transmitted to 
tho Secretary of tho Treasm-y, to be by him laid before Congress. 

Sec.IO. And be it further enacted. That tho professors and teachers, under the direetioii of the president 
of the institution, shall make [annual] visits to the principal mining districts, accompanied by their respective 
classes, for the pui'posc of examining the mines, mills, and modes of working, and instructing the puiiils in 
the practical operations of mining and metallurgy ; and the said professors and teachers shallalso, as far as 
theii- time will permit, give free lectures to tlie miners on geology, mineralogy, metallurgy, and mining 
engineering, and kindi-ed subjects. And tho faculty may require, as a part of tlie regular course of instruc- 
tion, the pupils to engage for a prescribed period in"prac"tical mining and milling. 

Sec. 11. And be it further- enacted. That the Secretary of the Treasm-y shall require from the directors 
and from the disbursing officer or officers appointed by the board of directors such bonds and vouchers as 
lie may deem necessary for the security and proper disbursement of the fund. 

Sec. 12. A nd be it further enacced. That from and after the expiration of the fiscal year commencing July 
first, eighteen hundred and sisty-cigtt, not exceeding one-half of the fund arising from the tax levied upon 
gold and silver bullion shall be expended by or on behalf of the institution, the [remaining half to] remain- 
der shall be set apart by the Secretary of the Treasm'y and invested in government securities, which shall 
remain, both principal and interest, a permanent laud for the support and maintenance of the institution ; 
and no part of the moneys so reserved, [half] either principal or interest, shaU be di-awu so long as the gov- 
ernment shall continue to impose a tax upon gold and silver bullion, but after such tax shall have ceased tLe 
interest on the reserved fund shall be used for the purposes hereinbefore mentioned. 



QQQ RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 



PAH-EANAGAT DISTRICT. 

When the report on this district embodied in this work was prepared, it was necessarily 
very brief and imperfect, as the district had been but recently discovered. Its importance 
will justify the addition, in the form of an appendix, of a more detailed history, brought 
down to the latest moment. 

The district was discovered on the lYth March, 1865, by those already mentioned in this 
work. Major Sidney S. Lyon, topographical engineer and late State Geologist of Kentucky 
(with whom I have been acquainted for many years), arrived in the district about the middle 
of July, 18G6, and spent nearly eight months in a most thorough examination, the result of 
which was entirely satisfactory as to the importance of the district. It contains within a 
comparatively small area a very great number of metalliferous veins, forming a complicated 
net-work. These veins vary greatly in width, running from a few inches to over twenty feet 
in breadth. 

The croppings are immense, and fissures are found, with good ores at the surface, over 
twenty feet wide, traceable down the denuded sides of the mountain for half a mile, retain- 
ing this magnitude as far as the exposure allows it to be seen, or two or three hundred feet 
lower in the rock than the top of the mountain. 

The walls of the lodes are firm gray limestone, metamorphosed to gray quartz. The 
lodes are nearly vertical, and most of the veins will require little or no timber, and they can 
be wrought for years witliout a single adit level, or any pumping machinery to free them 
from water. This, of course, is an advantage in mining. 

Carl Haber, mining engineer from Rhenish Prussia, made an examination of the mines 
during the fall of 1867. He speaks of the prominent lodes of the district as true fissure- 
veins, and, in his opinion, of great value. lie says in his report : " If, in conclusion, you con- 
sider the generally strong impression, as to its abundance and richness, which this mineral 
belt makes upon the mind of a person of experience, your decision must be, that the mines 
of the Pah-ranagat District promise rich rewards for an almost indefinite period." 

The district is thirty miles square, the lines bounding it run nortli and south, cast and 
west. The principal seat of the lodes lies in the northwest fourth of tlic district, enclosed 
by the boundary defining it. It consists of alternate mountain and valley. On the cast side 
Pah-Rock range, near the centre Hyko range, on the west the Great Quartz Mountain ; the 
northwestern corner includes a portion of the Bonte Ranche range, which is the north end 
of, and part of Tempiute's Mountains. 

The valleys between these mountain-ranges are about 5,000 feet above the level of the 
sea. The mountain-peaks rise 4,000 feet above the valleys, the greatest elevation in the dis- 
trict being about 9,000 feet above the level of the sea. 

The Great Quartz Mountain forms part of a series of elevated lands, which separate the 
Great Western Basin from the waters of the Colorado River. This being the case, the dis- 
trict lies partly within and partly outside of the Great Basin. 

The basin westwardly of the district is extended southwardly about one hundred miles, 
when its boundary is sharply curved toward the west, with a line of elevated country, and 
finally it connects with the Southern Sierra Nevada Mountains, which, for their entire length, 
form its western margin. 

Tiie general trend of the mountain-ranges of the Great Basm, and those forming its south- 
ern margin, is northeast and southwest, variously modified by denudation, uplift, and subsi- 
dence. The Great Basin itself is a vast mountain-plain with sharp wrinkles upon it, which 
appear diminutive when compared with the vast piles of the Wasatch and Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, which form the basin on its east and west sides. 

The subordinate wrinkles of the basin vary in height, they are generally long, narrow 
ridges, frequently interrupted, broken, thrown out of line, but still keeping up the general 
plan. Sometimes interrupted by sharp steep caiions, again completely smoothed, rising and 
descending a thousand feet by a gentle slope of from 50 to 100 feet to the mile. The 
mountain-chains vary in width from 10 to 30 miles, if the mountains be considered as 
descending to the centre of the valleys, which have been filled by the waste, which has par- 
tially smoothed the elevated rocks forming the mountains. 

The configuration of the country is such that it may justly be compared to a series of 
trough and ridge, nearly of equal height and depth, succeeding each other at regular intervals, 
from the base of the Wasatch to the Sierra Nevada Mountains, a distance varying from 
200 to 600 miles, the distance varying with the place, and the direction of the line by which 
it is crossed. 

The long troughs are divided into a series of minor basins by lateral wrinkles, or piles of 
wasted materials of the mountains, brought down by floods, and deposited at right angles 
with the line of the valley. 

These depressions thus formed are the locations at which are found the alkali lakes, so 
called. An alkali lake is usually a level plain, dusty, covered with white saline incrustations. 
Some of the alkali lakes contain water during the entire year, but the water is unfit for 
domestic use or the use of animals. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 6G7 

The higher mountain-ranges receive considerable quantities of snow, and afford greater or 

less quantities of water, which is seen in springs, rivulets, or creeks. These, as soon as they 
reach the mountain-slopes or valleys, are swallowed and hidden in the loose materials form- 
ing the surface of the valleys and many of the mountain-slopes. 

The topography of the Great Basin and its margin offers no serious obstacle to travel and 
the transportation of supplies. Good natural roads are found everywhere. All the natural 
difficulties of the topography of the country may be turned. In fact, so great are the facili- 
ties of transportation by wagon, that the heaviest loads, from five to six tons, are placed upon 
a wagon and boldly started into an unknown country, without trail or trace to guide the 
teamsters, to places two hundred miles distant. Water-stations on the route are to be hunted, 
and the country is to be explored before the advancing train. The country is traversed in 
every direction ; the mountains are turned or crossed at gaps or caiions. The lowest parts of 
the valleys are avoided, and, although the roads thus made are not so direct as they are 
made in longer-settled countries, the country without roads is now traversed by teams trans- 
porting heavy burdens in all directions. 

Roads, now well known and travelled, connect the district with Salt Lake City, four hun- 
dred miles distant. On this road there is now a line of stages, making the trip between the 
two places in four days. 

A road is also open to Austin, connecting with the overland mail-route, eight miles east 
of that place. Upon this road, from 180 to 200 miles in length, heavy -loaded trains make 
the journey in ten days. 

The quantity of arable land in and around the district is not great, yet, consider- 
ing tlie enormously productive character of these soils when they are irrigated, they 
will produce most of tlie food-supplies for a l.irge population. Some of these oases of the 
desert may here be referred to. Nearest and first comes Hyko Valley. This valley is about 
thirty miles in length ; it will average about one mile, in width, of lands that are susceptible 
of irrigation, or 19,200 acres. This land has produced and will continue to produce enormous 
crops of potatoes, wheat, barley, beans, pumpkins, onions, beets, and the usual crops of 
warm temperate climates. 

These lands will produce a certain crop of potatoes, from 400 to 500 bushels per acre ; 
wheat, 40 to CO bushels ; barley, VO to SO bushels ; and of all the crops that can be grown, a 
proportionately greater production of the same crop than may be grown on the best lauds in 
the Eastern and Middle States. 

The climate of the district is pleasant and healthy. No sickness occurred among 
a population of five hundred during the six months' sojourn I made at this mining district. 

The air is pure and bracing ; breezes from the north are nearly constant every night. 
These breezes render the air delightfully cool. The air being very dry, changes of tempera- 
ture are not, sensibly felt : and all out-door employments are curried on without incon- 
venience or discomfort during the entire year. 

The range of the thermometer during July was between 42° and 94° Fahrenheit. Great 
as this eliange may appear, it affects the senses less than a change of 15° does on the Atlantic 
coast or in the valley of the Mississippi. 

The thermometer rarely falls below 32°. When such an event does occur, the tempera- 
ture does not continue long below the freezing-point. 

The rainy reason — not properly a rainy season, but the season of showers — is from the 
first of July to the middle or last of August, when occasional copious showers fall. 

Snow rarely falls in the valleys. When it does, it remains on the ground a few hours; 
rarely one daj'. 

Snow falling on the Great Quartz Mountain five to ten inches deep, does not remain on the 
south, east, or west slopes more than a few days. The caQons and gorges, and deep shady 
places, retain the snow during the winter months. 

A register of the thermometer kept in the district, part of the time at Hyko Spring, and 
part of the time in the mountains, twenty-two hundred feet above the valley, shows the fol- 
lowing mean temperature : 

Greatest ] 

August 92° 

September .... 88° 

October 82° 

November 75° 

December 71° 

January 68° 

Februai-y 60° 

The district of Pah-ranagat, as before stated, has tln-ee ranges of mountains extending 
nearly its entire length from north to south, and a portion of a fourth range, which lies near 
it? northwest corner. Hyko Spring range lies nearly in the centre of the district. At the 
loot of the Hyko range, on its west side, burst forth three springs of great power. The most 
northwardly of these springs, Hyko, rises near the centre of the district, measuring from the 



Heat. Least Heat. 

51° 


Mean for Month. 
68° 


..49° 


67° 


43° 


62° 


41° 


53° 


32° .... 


50° 


' 25° 


41° 


21° 


40° 



C68 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES 

east toward the west, aud about 10 miles south of its northern boundarj-. This spring j'iclds 
about three hundred and twenty cubic inclies of water under a head of six inches. This water 
has been conducted bj' a ditch to the west side of the valley, where eligible mill-sites are found, 
and will give an abundant supply of water for mills using a thousand stamps, and all water 
neeessarv for the reduction of the ores that can be handled in these mills ; enough water to 
produce "from the ores of the district $200,000 per day, or $20,000,000 per year. 

Crystal Spring rises nearly south of Hyko Spring, six miles distant from it. This spring 
gives from 900 to 1,200 inches of water. Near it are eligible sites for all the mills that use 
its water. 

Ash Spring rises six miles south of Crystal Spring, and is the largest spring in the valley. 
The slope of the valley below Crystal and Ash Springs is sufficient to utilize the water of 
both these springs as a motive power, should it ever be considered desirable to do so. 

Wells sunk in any part of the valley reach water at a short distance, from 10 to 22 feet, 
varying with the location, so that mills may be erected at any point selected, and the neces- 
sary water may be raised from wells for all purposes. 

The clays of the valley have been proved to be suitable for the manufacture of brick ; 
some of the clay, being very refractory in fire, produces a very good fire-brick. 

Quarries of stone suitable for building-purposes have been opened, from which a good and 
cheap building-material can be obtained. 

A few convenient localities supply limestones, which are easily reduced to lime of an ex- 
cellent quality. 

Timber for building-purposes has been obtained from the top of, and in the caiions on, 
the northwest side of the Great Quartz Mountain. Large supplies of timber are found south 
of Ilyko Springs forty miles. East of the springs, thirty -five or forty miles, in the Bennct 
Spring range of mountains, large bodies of timber are known. Wood for fuel and mining 
purposes covers tlie Great Quartz Mountain, and part of Lookout Mountain — also large sup- 
plies may be obtained from the west slopes of P:di-Kock range, from ten to fifteen miles from 
Hyko Springs. The hauling of wood and ore is from the mountain to the valley — down-grade 
—large loads may be moved, and supplies of wood and ore obtained, at reasonable rates. 

At tlie present date of writing, a great deal of late and highly-important information 
about the Pah-ranagat District has been obtained. Practical investigation has been very 
active and thorough during the last six months. The district has been visited and minutely 
examined by Mr. A. F. White, mineralogist for the State of Nevada. 

Mr. White, in his report, says that " the veins of silver-bearing quartz in the Pah-ranagat 
District are true fissure-veins, and are well defined for long distances." He assayed six 
samples of ore taken indiscriminately from the Illinois Lode, and found their value per ton to 
be as follows: First specimen, $942.53; second, $1,570.89; third, $825; fourth, $94.25; 
fifth, $21.99 ; sixth, $204.18. At all points from which he made selections, Mr. White says 
" the ledge preserves a uniform thickness of about 21 feet." He is confident that water to 
run any number of mills will be obtained very near the mines. 

The richness of the Illinois and Indiana Lodes has been so well ascertained by the tun- 
nels and shafts heretofore run, that a system of deep mining has been commenced. 

The evidence of its being a true fissure-vein is unmistakable. A remarkable "chimney" 
of ore, worth from $100 to $2,500 per ton, is found enclosed in the lode ; it grows richer 
us it descends. In the lower tunnel some faint traces of water have made their appearance. 

The Indiana is another i-emarkable lode, and the work that has been done on it has re- 
vealed its great value and assured its immense size. One of the tunnels is into the vein-matter 
65 feet, and has not yet reached the " hanging wall " on the other side. One pocket of ore, 
worth $2,000 a ton, was found in the vein. The Indiana, though not so uniform as the Illi- 
nois, is no less plainly a fissure-vein. The best practical and scientific judges that have in- 
spected the Illinois and Indiana Lodes agree that both belong to the one great ledge of Pah 
ranagat ; and that the Webster, Chimney, Rio Virgin, Cocomongo, Soledad, and Yellow Lodes 
are other links in the one gigantic "backbone" of silver-quartz that runs through the district. 

The Hyko Company has commenced to run a tunnel into Silver Mountain at its base, and 
so pierce the Illinois Lode 800 feet below the point where it crops out on the summit. This 
is the kind of mining that deserves the warmest commendation. The results that may be 
expected from this tunnel are : 

First. Ability to mine a vast amount of ore, and carry it to the reduction-works without 
hoisting a single ounce. The mouth of the tunnel will open in the cailon at the foot of the 
mountain. The ore can be dug, dropped down, and dumped directly into wagons. Tliis sys- 
tem will not cost one-twentieth of that entailed by the expensive hoisting-works at Virginia 
City and elsawhere. 

Second. The new tunnel in all probability will reach a supply of water. The importance 
of this is quite beyond reckoning; it will enable mills to be built at the very entrance of the 
mines, and the ore then might be conveyed by its own specific gravity from its native bed 
to the battery-room in the mills. This would so cheapen the cost of reduction, that it would 
virtually double the value of the ore ; and, as there are hundreds of thousands of tons of ore 
in Silver Mountain in the 800 feet between its base and apex, it can be seen readily that the 
reaching of water by the tunnel must prove a source of incalculable wealth. 



WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. QQQ 

Third. There is hardly a shadow of doubt that the tunnel will enter the vein below the 
" water-level," at which point all silver-bearing lodes cliange in character : the ore is more 
concentrated, and grows mucli richer, and can be reduced with simpler processes, less ex- 
pense, and less loss of the precious metal. 

Fourth. The determining of the water-level will give new life and energy to the whole 
district ; scratching on the surface will cease, and deep mining be universally adopted. With 
a long tunnel under the Illinois Lode, and another just opposite, under the Indiana, th9 
caiion between the two mountains must be the site of one of the busiest mining cities on the 
Pacific slope. 

The present cost of labor and supplies in Pah-ranagat is one of the obstacles that a 
very few years must remove, though in this connection it should be remembered that the 
first white men entered the district but a little over three years ago. Miners receive $G a 
day, currency ; and freights from San Francisco cost 10 cents per pound. Passengers on the 
stage-coaches pay 25 cents per mile, which few laboring men, of course, can well afford to 
expend for long journeys. On the other hand, Pah-ranagat has some peculiar advantages 
which must constantly increase in value : the Mormon settlements are near at hand, and a 
portion of their surplus farm products seeks Hyko as a market, which enables the inhabitants 
to purchase certain staple-supplies cheaper than can be done in other sections of Nevada. 
The valley of Hyko itself produces enormous crops of small grain and vegetables on such 
ranches as have been irrigated. The three immense springs that gush at convenient inter- 
vals from the base of the mountains on the east would, if combined, form a i-iver of respect- 
able size, and the water they discharge could be conducted in a network of ditches that 
would suffice to irrigate every acre in Hyko Valley, 30 miles long. A north and south rail- 
road, connecting the two main trunk-lines of the Pacific Eailroad, will probably be built 
within the next five or six years. The topography of the country is favorable to the enter- 
prise to an extent that is surprising. Such a railroad must pass througli or near Pah-ranagat. 
With a successful system of deep mining, with mills and mines together in Silver Cailon, and 
with railroad-trains to bring up supplies and carry off products, the lowest grade of ore ever 
found in the Illinois, Indiana, and extension of the same, will be reduced at an enormous 
profit. 

The fact has been justly noted as of the first importance, that the parent vein on which 
the Illinois and Indiana are located has the same general trend from north to south as 
the Comstock Lode, and all the great gold-bearing ledges of California. What is called the 
"great mother gold-ledge " in California runs parallel with the parent silver-vein in Pah- 
ranagat. Croppiugs that run from east to west have come to be looked on as spurs and 
detached masses, a conclusion that practice and observation have invariably served to 
strengthen. 

The walls that enclose the Illinois are so perfectly defined that it has no rival in this 
respect in Nevada. Conceding it to be a true fissure-vein, and calculating upon its continuing 
to be as rich as the latest reports assert, and as has been proved by the deepest shaft yet run, 
we may safely say that it contains, properly developed, enough silver to insure fabulous 
profits ; yet the Illinois is but one small section of the main Pah-ranagat vein. The Indiana 
is no less promising ; nor are the Webster, Chimney, Yellow, Rio Virgin, Cocomongo, etc. 

All the latest reports, from parties who have made personal examinations, confirm the ex- 
istence in the Pah-ranagat District of inexhaustible supplies of wood. One of the most 
common of the indigenous trees is the pinon pine, which is unsurpassed for fuel. Mills 
ought to secure supplies of fuel for not exceeding $5 (currency) per cord. The ordinary 
price in Virginia City is §15 (coin) per cord. 

The extensive consumption of salt in the reduction of silver-ore renders its cost an item 
of importance. Pah-ranagat is as fortunate in this as in the matter of fuel ; the mountain 
of rock-salt, 100 miles south of Hyko City, is regarded as one of the most singular natural 
deposits in the world. There is scarcely a valuable cabinet in Nevada or California without 
its specimen of pure salt-crystal from this mountain. The supply there of salt is inexhaust- 
ible. It is now, I believe, the property of the Hyko Silver-Mining Company, and is looked 
on as the most valuable salt-mine in the country. 

Of Mills and Mining. — The ten-stamp mill, erected at Hyko City by the Hyko Com- 
pany, is a very superior structure, combining compactness and convenience with all the 
latest and most efficient improvements in machinery. It is in running order, and on the eve 
of being set to work ; but the company have the good sense to bend all their energies toward 
developing their mines, so that the mill, when it starts, can keep pounding away ad hifinUum, 
except when uecessary to shut down for repairs. If this line of operations had been the 
rule in American silver-mining from the start, a most damaging blunder would have been 
avoided, waste of means prevented, and loss of confidence averted. Those who are best 
acquainted with the silver-regions of Nevada are the most sanguine as to their future, and, 
though they may have occasion to deplore the mistakes of the past, they are none the less 
enthusiastic about the destiny of Nevada, the State of Silver. Silver-mining on the Pa- 
cific slope is not yet ten years old ; and, if the great production of bullion has had some 
offsets, it has been because ignorance and bad management have not been absent. Silver- 



670 RESOURCES OF STATES AND TERRITORIES, ETC. 

mining is in its infancy, and infancy is prone to tumble ; in the end it grows up into a 
brawny giant. 

The I'ro Rata Company of Hamilton, Ohio, has several miners employed on a tunnel un- 
der the ledge on Springer's Mountain. The work is intended to be 500 feet long, and is now 
completed for about 150 feet. This enterprise deserves to come under the head of deep 
mining, aiid its developments are awaited with great interest. 

The Crescent Company is erecting a fine ten-stamp mill, and conducting active operations 
on its ledge — the List Lode — one of the prominent croppings in the district. The shaft of the 
company has reached a considerable depth. 

The Sherwood Silver-Mining Company, of Chicago, has commenced a tunnel on its ledge 
on the north side of Sanderson's Mountain. 

Concluding Summary. — In the three years that have elapsed since the discovery of the 
Pah-ranagat District the work of making its great resources available and profitable has been 
pressed on with a vigor that is characteristically American. Hyko City is a town of 500 in- 
habitants, two silver reduction-mills, about 15 houses, including stores, boarding-houses, 
etc. It is the seat of Lincoln County, enjoj's post-office facilities, and has a line of stages. 
Several villages have sprung up elsewhere in the district. 

At last accounts from the lower tunnel on the Illinois, the miners were digging in much 
softer rock than ever before, and their rate of daily advance has been doubled. The Hyko 
Company employs about thirty miners, working day-and-night shifts. The position of their 
ledges is such that all the shafts and tunnels can be easily and perfectly ventilated. It is 
confining present operations to the two neighboring lodes — the Illinois and Indiana. A 
large quantity of ore, assaying $100 a ton, is piled up for reduction. The site for a new 
tvyenty-stamp mill has been graded, and sites for future ones that may be needed staked out 
in the immediate neighborhood of the mines. 

The other active companies in the district are working steadily, and show a praiseworthy 
disposition to expand their operations. 

A shaft is being sunk on the Webster Lode. At the depth of 117 feet the ledge was cut, 
and found to be 13 feet wide. This, and other evidence, tends to confirm the general belief 
that the Illinois and Webster are sections of the same parent-vein. 

The Arab Lode has very much the kind of ore found in the Indiana; it is parallel to it, 
and a shaft has been sunk between the two, from which both lodes can be worked to ad- 
vantage, when it has penetrated to a sufficient depth. It is possible that the Indiana and 
Arab unite and form a single vein. 

Castro Ledges, I., II., III. — Three names on the same fissure, from eight to ten feet 
wide ; little work done, but, from appearances, a good vein. 

The Juniper Lode has been worked to some extent, and, judging from its appearance 
and the character of ore displayed, it is well adapted to the smelting process. 

The Diana Lode is six feet wide ; ore poor on the surface. A tunnel has been run to 
it, and the ore obtained is quite rich. This is a good lode, and is probably on the same 
fissure as the Juniper. 

The Yellow Lode is from sixteen to twenty feet wide. The quartz is dark-colored ; but 
very little work has been done on it. 

The IIoHENLiNDEN LoDE is six feet wide, and resembles the Indiana. It is considered a 
good lode. 

The Solitaire Lode is ten feet wide. The vein makes a very good impression, but no 
work has been done to fully determine its character. 

The Magnate Lode is twelve feet wide. The vein stands like a cliff above the mountain. 

The Amazon Lode is a complete net-work of small veins, and, by its magnitude, reminds 
one of the river after which it was named. 

The Ely and Sanderson Lode shows a largo mass of ore on its surface. This is a very 
attractive vein ; although the croppings are not rich, it gives promise of great value. 

The Rio Virgin Lode has very large croppings of very good ore. 

The ledges mentioned are a sample of the good ledges of the district. Many more might 
be mentioned that deserve notice ; but these given have sufficient character to attract the 
attention of those seeking the mineral regions for study or investment, and the district, taken 
as a whole, will assume a high rank among the silver-mining districts of our country, pro- 
vided actual development shall be the main object of those owning its ledges — mere specu- 
lation, in the best mines in the world, without adequate work, would only disappoint those 
investing their money. 



INDEX TO J. ROSS BROWNE'S REPORT. 



Page. 

Tietter of Secretary of the Treasury 1 

J. Ross Browne to the Secretary of the Treasury. 3 

CAIilFORBTIA. 

SECTION I. 

General condition of mining interest 12 

Errors in mining 12 

Entries under act of July 26, 1866 13 

Revenue law of California 14 

Surveys 14 

SECTION II. 

TSie motBser lode 14 

Course and dip 14 

Character of the gold 15 

"Width of lode 15 

Pay chimneys 15 

Hills and hollows 15 

Peculiarities of the lode 15 

Is it a iissnrc vein ? 16 

Claims in JIariposa 16 

Claims in Tuolumne 17 

Claims in Calaveras 18 

Claims in Amador 19 

SECTION m. 

Blariposa county 19 

Placer mining 20 

Agriculture 20 

Yosemite 21 

Mariposa estate 21 

Princeton mine 25 

Pine Tree mine 27 

Josephine mine 27 

Mariposa mine 28 

Green Gulch mine 29 

Other mines 29 

Mariposa mills 30 

Hunter's valley 30 

Epperson mine 31 

Black mine 31 

Ferguson mine 31 

Louisiana mine 31 

Flannigan mine 31 

Coward mine 32 

Calico mine 32 

Compromise mine 32 

Marble Spring mine 32 

Cherokee mine 32 

Shimer mine 33 

Goodwin mine 33 

Bell and McGrew mine 33 

MoKenzie mine 34 

Hidloy and Cunningham mine 34 

Mary Harrison mine 34 

Crown Lead mine 34 

Kite's Cove mine 34 

Bridgeport mine ,34 

Penon Blanco mine 35 

SECTION IV. 

Tuolnimne county 35 

Columbia 36 

Knapp's ranch 37 

Sawmill flat 38 

Shaw's flat 38 

Sonora 38 

Big O.ak flat 38 

Kincaid flat 38 

Jamestown 38 

Other towns 38 



irnolramne county — Continued. Page. 

Table mountain 38 

Quartz mining iu Tuolumne 42 

Golden Rule mine 42 

App mine 43 

Silver mine 43 

Heslep mine 43 

Trio mine 44 

Reist mine 44 

Mooncy mine 44 

Raw Hide mine 44 

Eagle mine 44 

Sharomut mine 44 

Clio mine 44 

Meader and Carrington mine 44 

Patterson mine 44 

Toledo mine 45 

Soulsby mine 45 

Piatt mine 46 

Starr King mine 46 

Old Gilson mine 4G 

Grizzly mine 46 

Mount Vernon mine 47 

Snell mine 47 

Monitor mine 47 

Hazel Dell mine 47 

Summit Pass mise 47 

Quartz near Columbia mine 47 

Hunter mine 48 

Lewis mine 48 

Sell and Martin mine 48 

Sophia mine 49 

Bald Mountain mine 49 

Draper mine 49 

Nonpareil mine 49 

Burns mine 50 

Other quartz near Big Oak 50 

SECTION V. 

Calaveras eonnty 50 

Big Tree grove 51 

Agriculture 52 

Jleteorology 52 

San Andreas 52 

San Andreas old channel 53 

Mokelumne Hill 54 

Mokelumno Hill, old channel 55 

Opals 56 

Camps near Mokelumne Hill 56 

Douglass Flat mine 56 

Murphy's mine 57 

Vallecito mine 58 

Minor Placer camps 58 

Quartz regulations of Angels 53 

Quartz regulations of San Andreas 59 

Quartz mining in Calaveras 59 

Morgan mine .'^9 

Reserve mine CO 

Enterprise mine fiO 

South Carolina mine fiO 

Stanislaus mine 61 

Santa Cruz mine 62 

Union Creek mine 63 

Carson Creek mine 62 

Bovee mine 62 

Angels mine C3 

Hill's mine 64 

Stickles mine 64 

Utica mine 64 

Lightner mine 64 

Ella mine 64 

West Point mine 65 

Fisher's mill 66 

Harris's mill C6 

Belcher's mill 66 

Lacey's mill 66 



672 



INDEX. 



Calaveras county— Continued. Page. 

Skull FUit mill C6 

Carlcton mine 6G 

Vance's mill (16 

Morris's mill 66 

Mosquito mine 66 

Rsiilroad Flat mill 66 

WoodhouKo mine 66 

Holmes mine 67 

Boston mine i 67 

Q-Cf\ Hill mine 67 

Collier mine 68 

Brushville mine 69 

Pl3raouth mine 69 

Lamphear mine 70 

Cadwallander mill 70 

French mill 70 

McGlynn mill 70 

Clierokoo mine 70 

San Domingo mine 70 

IMurpliy's mine 70 

Crispin mine 70 

Isabel mine 71 

Calaveritas mill 71 

Albion mine 71 

Thorpe's mine 71 

Kadciiffc mine 71 

Carpenter mine 71 

Puruell mine 71 

SECTION VI. 

Amfi«3or county 71 

Volcano 72 

Quartz regulations of Amador 73 

Quartz veins about volcano 73 

Marlette mine 74 

Coney mine 74 

Blue Jacket mine 74 

Trowbridge mine 74 

Oneida mine 74 

Hayvvard mine 75 

Railrrfad mine 76 

Loring Hill mine 76 

Wildman mine 76 

Lincoln mine 76 

Comet mine 76 

Herbert ville mine 76 

Keystone mine 76 

Spring Hill mine 77 

Amador mine 77 

Banker Hill mine 77 

Hazard mine 77 

Loyal mine 77 

Italian mine 77 

Seat on mine 77 

Potosi mine , 77 

Webster mine 77 

Plymouth mine ". 77 

Enterprise mine 78 

Richmond mine 78 

Mender's sulphuret works 78 

Rose mill and mine 78 

Wolverine mine 78 

Kcarsing mill 78 

Hinckley mine 78 

Atchinsou's mill 78 

Tubb's mill 78 

Paugh's mine 78 

Union mine 78 

Tellurium mine 79 

Anaconda mine 79 

Thoss mill 79 

Craft's mine 80 

Golden Eagle mine 80 

Bclden mine 60 

Pioneer mine 80 

Mitchell mine 80 

Golden Gate mine 80 

Sirocco mine 80 

Kelley mine 80 

SECTION VII. 

EH ffi»oracI© cotmity 81 

Town 81 

Shingle Springs railroad 81 

Placervillc wagon road 81 



El I>orado coiamty— Continued. Page. 

Miscellaneous resources 83 

Blue channel 82 

Graj' channel 83 

Claims on Weber divide R3 

Claims on Reservoir hill 84 

Claims on Spanish hill 85 

Indian diggings ., 85 

Placervillc mining regulations 8a 

Mud Springs mining regulations 86 

Georgetown mining regulations 86 

Reed mine 87 

Pacific mine 87 

Harmon mine 87 

Shepard mine 87 

Cleopatra mine 87 

White and Burdict mine 88 

Persevere mine 88 

White mine 88 

Manning mine 88 

EUe Ellen mine 88 

Epplcy mine 88 

Davidson mine ■. 88 

Montezuma mine 88 

New York and El Dorado mill 88 

Hermitage mine 88 

Union mine 88 

Wilder mine 89 

Pocahontas mine 89 

Union Church mine 89 

G ray mine SO 

Bryant mine 89 

Beard mine - 89 

Independence mine 89 

Stillwagon mine 89 

■ Silger mine 89 

Greenwood mine 89 

Taylor mine 90 

Rosecrans mine 90 

Blue Lead mine 90 

Collins mine 90 

Alpine mine 90 

Woodsidc mine 90 

James's mill 91 

Eureka mine 91 

Georgia Slide mine 91 

Mosquito mine 91 

Plymouth mine 9 L 

Gopher mine 91 

Last Chance mine 91 

Reward mine 91 

SECTION VIII. 

Placer cownty 92 

Miscellaneous resources 92 

Forest Hill divide 92 

Forest hill 92 

Blue lead at Forest hill 92 

Careless working 93 

Future of Forest hill 93 

Principal claims 93 

Claims at Todd's valley 93 

Dardanell's mine 94 

Oro mine 04 

Green Spring mine 94 

Uncle Sam mine 94 

Hope and Rockland mine 94 

Fast and Nortwood mine 94 

Snyder mine !'4 

Independence mine 94 

New Jersey mine 94 

Jenny Liud mine 95 

Gore mine 95 

Maine mine 96 

Rough and Ready mine 96 

Deidesheimer and other mines 96 

Michigan Bluff mine 96 

Tail sluices 96 

North American claim 96 

Nitro-glycerine claim 97 

Bath District claim 97 

Paragon claim 97 

Other Bath claim 98 

Damascus claim 99 

Mountain Gate claim 99 

Iowa Hill claim 100 

Wisconsin Hill claim 100 



INDEX. 



673 



Placer connty— Continued. Page. 

Roach Hill claim 100 

Morning Star claim 101 

Bird Flat and Lebanon claim 101 

Gold Run claim 101 

Gravel at Gold run 101 

Outlet 101 

Facilities for piping 102 

Cafion creek 102 

Water 102 

Squire's Canon claims 102 

Canon Creek claims 102 

Goosling Ravine claims 103 

Lower Canon Creek claims 103 

Gold Run canon 103 

Potato ravine 104 

Indiana cement mill 104 

Indiana Canon claims 104 

Moody's tail sluice 104 

Kinder's tail sluice lO'l 

Hoskin's tail sluice 105 

Dutch flat 105 

Phoenix mine 105 

American mine 106 

Buckeye mine 106 

Dutch Flat and Queen City mine 106 

Bear River and Teaff mine 10(5 

Boston, Gray Eagle, and Yankee claims 106 

Drift claims 106 

Mill claims 107 

Other claims 107 

TeafFs tail sluice 107 

Drainage of Bear river 107 

South Placer quartz regulations 108 

Canada Hill and Lone Star regulations 108 

Green Emigrant mine 108 

Kevv York and Empire mine 109 

Schnablo mine 109 

Walter and St. Lawrence mine ] 09 

Golden Rule mine 109 

Stewart's Flat mine 119 

Damascus mine 110 

Red Stone mine 110 

Canada Hill mine 110 

Harpending mine 110 

SECTION IX. 

STevada connty Ill 

Settlement 1)3 

Placer mining 116 

Hydraulic mining 119 

Birchville 321 

French Coral mine 121 

Moore's Flat mine 121 

Cement mining 123 

Extent of the ]?Iacer mines 123 

Chalk Mountain range 126 

Quartz mining 128 

Grass Valley district 129 

Eureka mine 130 

Golden Hill mine 130 

Massachusetts Hill mine 131 

Ophir Hill mine 131 

North Star mine 131 

Allison Ranch lode 131 

Nevada quartz district 132 

Gold Tunnel mine 132 

Illinois and California claims 133 

Banner mine 133 

Pittsburg mine 133 

Sogg's mine 134 

Sneath and Clay mine 134 

Lecompton mine 134 

Eureka quartz district 135 

Tecumseh mills 136 

Grizzly lode 136 

Meadow Lake district 136 

U. S. Grant mine 137 

SECTION X. 

Sierra connty 137 

Brandy City 138 

St. Louis and neighboring towns 138 

Morristown mine 139 

Minnesota mine 139 

Live Yankee claim 140 

43 



Sierra connty— Continued. Page. 

Highland and Masonic mine 140 

Montecristo mine 140 

Deadwood mine 140 

Fur Cap, Sebastopol, and Grizzly mines 141 

Gold Canon mine 141 

Fashion claim 141 

Sierra claim 141 

Howland Flat mine 142 

Snow at Howland flat 142 

Union claim 143 

Other claims 143 

Quartz in Sierra county 144 

Sievra Butte mine „ 145 

Independence mine 140 

Keystone mine 146 

Primrose mine 147 

Mines near Sierra Butte 147 

Mines near Alleghany and Minnesota 147 

Mines near Downieville 148 

SECTION .XI. 

Ynba connty i48 

Campion's, Brown's and Hansonville 148 

Yuba river 143 

Sucker Flat channel 148 

Timbuctoo mine 149 

Sucker Flat claims 149 

Smartsville Blue Gravel mine 150 

Sicard fiat 151 

Brown's valley 152 

Jefferson mine 152 

Pennsylvania mines 153 

Other quartz mines 154 

Brown's Valley quartz regulations 155 

Empire quartz regulations 156 

SECTION XII. 

Butte connty 157 

Butte Table mountain 157 

Cherokee mine 157 

Oregon Gulch mine 158 

Cherokee Blue Gravel claim 159 

Eureka claim 159 

Cherokee claim 160 

Diamonds 160 

Morris, Nimshew, and Kimshew 160 

Bangor 160 

Cement barrel 161 

Wyandotte 161 

Forbestown 101 

Mooreville and Evansville 163 

Bangor quartz regulations 162 

Forbe.stown mining regulations 1 62 

Nisbet quartz mine 163 

Spring Valley mine 163 

Other quartz mines 163 

SECTION Xin. 

Plnmas connty 164 

Beckwourth's Pass 164 

Conly and Gowell's claim 164 

Secret diggings 166 

Port Wine 166 

Little Grass valley 166 

Saw Pit flat 167 

Eureka mine 167 

Mammouih mine 168 

Seventy-six mine 168 

Crescent mine 168 

Whitney mine 169 

Golden Gate mine 169 

Dixey mills 169 

Bullfrog mine 170 

Light and Callahan mine V/O 

Premium and Sparks mine 170 

Indian Valley mine 170' 

Greenville mine 170' 

SECTION XIV. 

Alpine connty 170 

Altitude, climate 170' 

Lakes, metalliferous veins Z,'::.... 17i, 



674 



INDEX. 



Alpine cotmly— Continued. Pagre. 

Tunnelling, mining 171 

Mountains, reduction of ores 172 

Wood and water 172 

SECTION XV. 

JLassen comity 173 

Streams, stock-raising, hot Bpringg 173 

Auriferous quartz 174 

SECTION XVI. 

Stanislans county 174 

Frpsno fOMiity 174 

Tulare eonn t,v 174 

Merce«le county 174 

San Joaquin 175 

SECTION XVU. 

Inyo county 175 

Owen's valley 175 

Population, towns 176 

Mills, roads 176 

Mining districts 177 

SECTION xvm. 

Mono county 177 

Climate 177 

Water-power, forests 178 

Claims 179 

SECTION XIX. 

Hfiningr (litcbes 179 

Expensive construction 181) 

Bad engineering 180 

High flumes 180 

Unprofitable investments 180 

Decline in value 181 

Supply of water 181 

Small ditches 181 

Flumes 181. 

Iron pipe 182 

Ditch law 182 

Conflict between ditchers and miners 183 

Proposed grant of land 183 

Measurement of water 184 

Eureka Lake and Yuba Canal Companies. .. 184 

French Coral ditches 193 

Tuolumne ditches 193 

Phoenix ditches 194 

Murphy's ditches 195 

Mokelumne ditches 195 

Amador ditches 195 

Eureka ditches 195 

Indian Diggings ditches 196 

Katorna ditches 196 

South Fork ditches 196 

Pilot Creek ditches 197 

Michigan Flat ditches 197 

Colonia ditches 197 

Bear Kiver ditches 198 

Michigan Bluff ditches , 198 

Dutch Flat ditches 198 

South Yuba ditches 198 

Truckee ditches 199 

Sears ditches 199 

Nevada Reservoir ditches 199 

Excelsior ditch 199 

Forbestown ditch 200 

OroviUe ditch 200 

Table of canals and water ditches 200 

SECTION XX. 

Miscellaneous minerals of Pacific 

coast 207 

Copper 207 

New discoveries 209 

Recent development of the copper mines 211 

Copperopolis mines 211 

Keystone mines 212 

Other Copperopolis mines 212 

Napoleon mines 212 

Campo Seco mijiea 212 



Miscellaneous minerals— Continued. Page. 

Lancha Plana mines 213 

Copper mines in Amador county 213 

Copper mines in Mariposa county 213 

Buchanan mine 213 

Copper mines in San Luis Obispo county 214 

Copper mines in Los Angeles county 214 

Copper mines in Plumas county 214 

Copper mines in Del Norte county 214 

Copper mines in Contra Costa county 214 

Copper mines in Nevada county 214 

Other California copper mines 215 

Oregon copper mines 215 

Lower California copper mines 215 

Nevada copper mines 215 

Peavine copper mines.. 216 

Arizona copper mines 216 

Great Central copper mines 216 

Planet copper mines 216 

Mineral Hill copper mines 217 

Copper f melting works 218 

Importation of metallic copper 218 

Manufacture of sulphate of copper 219 

Iron 219 

First iron smelting works on the Pacific 219 

Iron in California 222 

Specular iron ore 222 

Magnetic iron ore 223 

Hematite ores of iron 224 

Chromic iron ores 224 

Titanic iron ores 225 

Mixed iron ores 225 

Nevada iron ores 225 

Utah iron ores 225 

Arizona iron ores 225 

Concluding remarks on ores 226 

Consumption of iron in California 226 

Iron foundries in San Francisco 226 

Imports of iron into San Francisco in 1866-'67. 228 
Exports of ironfrom San Francisco in 1866-'67 . 228 

Coal 228 

New discoveries in California 231 

Mount Diablo coal mines 232 

Black Diamond coal mines 233 

Pittsburg railroad 234 

Teutonia coal mines 235 

Union coal mines 235 

Independent coal mines 235 

Eureka coal mines 235 

Central coal mines 235 

Pacific coal mines 236 

Labor, wages, &c 236 

Coal mines of Oregon 237 

Coos Bay coal 237 

Coal in Washington Territory 238 

Tuca Straits coal mines 238 

Other coal mines in Washington Territory. . . 24.0 

Coal in Nevada 240 

Coal in Utah 240 

Vancouver Island mines 240 

Concluding remarks 240 

Marble, limestone, &c 241 

Indian diggings 243 

Coifax quarries 243 

Other localities where marble has been found. 244 

Limestone and lime 244 

Sulphate of lime 244 

Dolomite or magnesian limestone 245 

Hydraulic limestone 245 

Oregon limestone 246 

Nevada limestone 247 

Building materials 247 

Granite 247 

Sandstone 248 

Bricks 248 

Roofing slates 249 

Steatite or soapstone 249 

Clays 250 

Kaolin 250 

Pipe clay , 251 

Coloring earths 251 

Sands 251 

Plumbago or black lead 252 

Eureka plumbago mine 252 

The Mine 252 

Processes for cleaning the ore 252 

Separating worlvs 253 

Costs of production 253 



INDEX. 



675 



Miscellancons minerals— Continued. Page. 

Other deposits of graphite 253 

Importance of graphite 254 

Salt 254 

Salt in California 254 

Salt in Oregon 255 

Salt in Nevada 256 

Salt in Arizona 256 

Salt in Utah 256 

Willamette saltworks 250 

Carmen Island salt 256 

Price of salt 256 

Asphaltum 256 

Petroleum ^58 

Composition of California coal oil 259 

Manufacture of coal oil 261 

Mode of occurrence 262 

Quicksilver 263 

Kedington mine 2(i4 

New Idria mine 264 

Borax 264 

Sulphur 266 

SECTION xxr. 

Agricnltural resources of Califor- 
nia 266 

Exports of California from 1860 to 1867 271 

Climate of California 275 

Principal routes through California '280 

Distances, fares, and freights 281 

SECTIO.V -XXII. 

General summary 289 

Area of California 289 

Arable lands 289 

Precious metals 291 

Shipments of treasure 292 

Total deposits and coinage 298 



NEVADA. 

SECTION I. 

Topoi^raphy. physical features, and 
natural pro<luctions 299 

System of mountains 299 

Plains and valleys 300 

Sinks, sloughs, and lakes 301 

Alkali flats and mud lakes 304 

Rivers and streams 304 

Springs of Nevada 306 

Salt beds 309 

SECTION n. 

Woodlands, coal, «fcc 312 

Coal 312 

Whitman coal mines 312 

Other discoveries 313 

Crystal Peak 315 

SECTION in. 

Copper 316 

Peavine district 316 

Walker River copper region 317 

SECTION IV. 
Meteorology, botany, zoology, &e . . 319 

SECTION V. 

Social, industrial, and educational 

progress 321 

SECTION VI. 

Douglas county 322 

Carson valley 322 

Timber lands 322 

Agriculture 323 

Cupriferous lodes 323 



SECTION vn. 

Page. 

Ormsby county 324 

Population .324 

Mountains 324 

Streams and wood lands 324 

Mineral products 325 

SECTION VIIL 

Wasboe county 335 

Valleys 325 

Agricultural resources 326 

Mineral deposits „..,-. 327 

SECTION IX. 

Storey county 327 

Mining excitements 328 

Quartz mills 328 

Population 328 

SECTION X. 

tyon county 328 

Ledges 328 

Quartz mills 329 

SECTION XI. 

Roop county 329 

Surprise valley 329 

Climate 330 

Population 330 

Warm springs 330 

SECTION XII. 

Humboldt county 330 

Alkali lakes 330 

Population 330 

Arable land 331 

Cereals 331 

Towns 331 

Humboldt canal 331 

Mills 331 

Smelting establishments 331 

Llining 333 

SECTION xm. 

Cburcbill county 333 

Population 333 

Salt beds 333 

Hot springs 333 

Desert district 334 

Mining operations 334 

SECTION XIV. 

Esmeralda county 334 

Mineral productions 334 

Population 335 

Agricultural resources 335 

Mills 335 

Mining 336 

Towns 336 

Argentiferous veins 337 

Columbus district 337 

Salt deposits 338 

Silver Peak district 338 

SECTION XV. 

Eincoln county 339 

Discovery of silver 339 

Mineral deposits 340 

Wood lands 340 

Climate 340 

Pahranagat valley 340 

SECTION XVI. 

The Comstock lode 341 

Character of lode 341 

Length of lode 341 

Enclosing rocks 342 



676 



INDEX. 



Tbe C'omstocit lode— Continued. Page. 

AVest wall 342 

Width of lode 342 

Filling of the vein 342 

Bonanzas 343 

Ores 343 

Developments on the lode 343 

Mode of mining 344 

Tunnels and drifts 345 

Pumps 348 

Amount of ore raised from the mines 349 

Yield of ore per ton 349 

Cost of mining per ton 351 

Process of reduction 361 

Cost of reduction 362 

Percentage of yield and loss 364 

Hale and Norcross mine 365 

Gould and Curry mine 366 

Concentration 366 

SECTION XVII, 

Yield of mines, net profits, Ac 367 

Products of principal mines 3G7 

Costs and losses on silver mining 370 

Bullion product of the Comstock lode 380 

Assay offices 380 

Stage routes centring at Virginia City 380 

Stage routes centring at Carson City 381 

SECTION XVIII. 

Vir$;ini» and adjacent districts 381 

Facilities for obtaining fuel 381 

Coal 381 

Consumption of firewood and lumber 382 

Other mineral deposits 382 

Number of mining locations claimed and 

opened 383 

Cost of materials 383 

Population of towns 384 

iMnde and cost of living 384 

Pacific railroad and its branches 385 

SECTION XIX. 

Sntro tunnel 387 

Yield of bullion 387 

Valenciaua mine 388 

English Real Del Monte Company 388 

Abandonment of the mine 390 

Mining in Europe 390 

Mining in Germany 390 

Freiberg district 391 

Ernst August tunnel 391 

Description of tunnel 391 

Necessity of a tunnel to the Comstock lode.. 391 

Continuity of the Comstock lode 391 

Sutro tunnel 392 

Time required to finish tunnel 394 

SECTION X.X. 

Eastern Nevada 394 

Reese River district 396 

Mode of working 337 

Description of ores 397 

Sherman shaft 399 

The Timoke 40'0 

Plymouth Silver Mining Company 400 

Savage and other mines 400 

Mills 401 

Official returns 403 

Amador district 408 

Mount Hope and other districts 408 

Cortez district 41)8 

Kewark district 410 

White Pine district 411 

Diamond district 411 

Eureka district 411 

Gold Canon district 411 

Kinsley district 411 

Yreka district 412 

JJattle Mountain district 412 

Ravenswood district 413 

Big Creek district 413 

Washington district 413 

Marysville district 413 



Eastern Nevada— Contintied. Page. 

Smoky valley 413 

Toyabee mountains 413 

Santa Fe district 414 

Bunker Hill and Summit district 414 

Blue Springs district 414 

Smoky Valley salt field 414 

North Twin River district 414 

Twin river 415 

McDonald mine 417 

South Twin River district 418 

Hot Springs district 418 

El Dorado district 418 

Peaviue district 418 

Smoky valley 418 

San Antonio district 418 

Silver Peak district 419 

Red Mountain district 419 

Palmetto district 419 

Lida district 419 

Edmonton district 419 

Columbus district 419 

Volcano district 419 

Clarendon district 419 

Paradise district 419 

Pilot district 419 

Mammouth district 419 

Union district 419 

North Union district 419 

New Pass district 420 

Silver Bend district 420 

Philadelphia district 420 

Official returns 423 

Northumberland district 423 

Danville district 423 

Hercules Gate district 424 

Hot Creek district 424 

Reveille district 425 

Empire district 425 

Milk Springs district 425 

Moroy district 425 

Phranagat district 426 

Colorado district.. 429 

Tuscarora district 429 

Catalogue of minerals 430 

SECTION XXI. 

The overland telegrapli 431 

History of its construction 432 

Completion 433 

First message 434 

System of working 435 

Breaks in line 436 

Effects of climate 437 

Natural obstacles 438 

Difficulties 439 

Telegraphic laws 440 

Connections ; table of distances 441 

ARIZONA. 

SECTION I. 

Cieneral features of country 443 

Mountain ranges 44" 

Mining districts 443 

SECTION II. 

Sontliem Arizona 443 

Colorado mine 444 

Santa Rita mine 44.'> 

Sopori 447 

Mowry mines 447 

Olive mines 448 

San Antonio mines 443 

Cababi mines 449 

Sierriti mi les 44 .• 

Ajo mines 449 

Santa Rosa mines 451) 

Apache Pass 450 

Mines near Tucson 450 

Lee's mine 450 

La Par mine , 4.50 

Spangler mine 450 

San Pedro lodes 450 

Maricopa lodes 450 

G eneral remarks 451 



INDEX. 



67r 



SECTION m. 

Page. 

Colorado river 452 

Silver district 452 

Castle Dome : 452 

Weaver district 453 

Constantia mine 455 

Conquest mine 455 

Cruc mine 455 

Picacho mine 455 

Peach Bloom mine 455 

Williams Fork 456 

Mineral Hill 457 

San Francisco district 457 

Sacramento district 4G0 

Wauba Yuma district 461 

General remarks 461 

SECTION IV. 

Central Arizona 466 

Prescott region 467 

Ton to plateau 467 

Sierra Prieta 468 

Granite mountain 468 

Structure of the range 468 

Timber of Sierra Prieta 469 

Water system of Sierra Priet.t 470 

Grass plains near Prescott 470 

Skull valley 471 

Lynx creek 474 

Sterling mine 475 

Montgomery mine 475 

Otten mine 475 

Guadaloupe mine 475 

Big Bug mine 476 

Ticonderoga mine 477 

Chapparal mine 477 

Dividend mine 477 

Turkey creek 477 

Bradshaw district 477 

Pine flat 477 

Walnut grove 477 

Vulture mine 477 

General remarks 478 

UTAH. 

SECTION I. 

General features 482 

Wasatch mountains 482 

Colorado river 482 

Salt lake 482 

Utah lake 483 

Salt Lake City 483 

Irrigation 484 

SECTION n. 

Mines and mining^ 484 

Minersvillo 484 

Kush Valley district 484 

Coal 484 

Pacific railroad 485 

Iron 485 

Salt 485 

General conclusions 486 

MOXTAJTA. 



SECTION I. 

Area and po]!)nIation 487 

Mountains 487 

Vegetable products 489 

Timber 491 

Climate 491 

Navigable vraters 492 

Flint creek 494 

Deer Lodge valley 494 

Town of Cottonwood 494 

SECTION n. 

Mines and systems of mining 496 

Bannock placers 498 

Bannock quartz 498 



Mines, «$;C.— Continued. Page. 

Dakota lode 499 

Argenta district 499 

Summit district 500 

Hot Springs district 501 

Helena mines 501 

Montana bar 503 

Diamond bar 503 

Highland district 503 

Comstock 505 

Flint creek 505 

Jefferson basin 505 

Bannock City 506 

Stinking Water 506 

Alder gulch 506 

Summit City 509 

Nevada 509 

Valley of the Stinking Water CC9 

Gallatin valley 509 

Other valleys and placers 510 

Helena 510 

Bar mining 510 

Confederate gulch 510 

IDAHO. 

SECTION I. 

Area and popnlation 512 

Mountains 512 

Rivers 513 

Shoshone falls 513 

Salmon falls 514 

Valley of the Snake 514 

Sage brush 514 

Boise basin « 514 

Towns 516 

SECTION n. 

Mines, districts, and system of min- 

ing 517 

Salmon River district 518 

Lemhi mines 518 

Boise Basin district 518 

Rocky Bar district 520 

Atlanta and Yuba district 520 

Owyhee mines , 522 

Oro Fino mines 522 

Boorman mines 523 

Flint district 528 

CKmate 528 

Quartz mills 529 

Prospecting for mines 530 

General remarks 532 

Product of Idaho C34 

WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

SECTION I. 

Geographical memoir 537 

Cascade mountains 537 

Columbia river 538 

Navigability of the Columbia 539 

Natural divisions 539 

Bays and harbors 541 

Rivers emptying into Puget sound 541 

Rivers and bays on the Pacific coast 544 

Gray's harbor 545 

Shoal-water bay and the Willopah valley 546 

Tributaries to the Lower Columbia 546 

Olympic or Coast range of mountains 547 

Climate of Western Washington 547 

Central Washington 550 

Climate of Central Washington 553 

Eastern Washington 534 

Climate of Eastern Washington 559 

Counties of Washington Territory 560 

SECTION II. 

Mineral resources 567 

Coal 568 

Bellingham Bay mines 568 

Stoluauamah coal 571 

Skookum Chuck coal fields 571 

Clallam Bay mines 571 



678 



INDEX. 



SCinciral resources — Continued. Page. 

Seattle mines 572 

Lalie \Va?Jiington coal fields 572 

Shipbuilding 573 

Puget sound and the northern fisheries 574 

OREOOX. 

SECTION I. 

Bonnclaries, subdivisions, naviga- 
ble rivers, towns, «tc 57G 

Subdivisions 576 

Navigable rivers 578 

Portland 580 



Agriculture 582 

Miscellaneous resources 583 



SECTION ni. 

Mineral resources 590 

Willow Creek mines 590 

Quartz lodes 592 

Iron interest 592 



AliASKA. 

Mineral resources 597 

Timber 597 

Importance of the acquisition 597 

Mr. Sevyard 598 

Bibliography of Alaska 598 



«EBfERAI^ ©BSERVATIO:^S OKT THE 
PACIFIt; Sl,OPE; PROGRESS OF 

SETTEEMEXT; IMMIGRATION AND 
EAROR. 

SECTION I. 

Influence of mining on other in- 
terests 605 

Cost of labor and expenses of living 607 

Wages generally and demand for labor 610 



SECTION n. 

Page. 
General considerations on the pre- 
cious metals 615 

Why gold and silver are used for money 615 

Quantity of the precious metals in Greece 

and Rome 616 

Principal epochs in the production of pre- 
cious metals 616 

Stock of precious metals 610 

The drain of silver to Asia C21 

A great increase of production probable 623 

Kelative value of gold and silver 623 

How individuals are enriched by mining 627 

How nations are enriched by mining 627 

How the precious metals fall in value 628 

Influence of increased production on na- 
tional debts 628 

Foreign States and Territories 630 

Lower California 6:50 

Mexico 639 

Sinaloa 647 

Chihuahua 648 

South America 649 

Peru 649 

Bo'ivia 649 

Chili. 650 

BrazU 651 

British Possessions 651 

British Columbia 651 

Australia 653 

Stations of Victoria 652 

New South Wales 653 

New Zealand 653 

Russian Possessions 654 

Siberia 654 

Total production of gold and silver in 1867 655 

APPENDIX. 

Instructions from the Commissioner of the Gen- 
eral Land Office to the registers and receivers. 656 

Supplementary instructions 658 

Abstract of duties 653 

Legislation in regard to mineral interests 659 

Importance of a national school of mines 659 

Opinions of eminent public men 663 

Mr. Stewart's bill 6S3 



L 



1 y «iV» a^ 



A SKETCH 

OP 

THE SETTLEMENT AND EXPLORATION OF 
LOWER CALIFORNIA. 



^J-i^/iJ)- 



OOI^TEI^TS. 



Intkoduction, 



PAGE 
. 5 



CHAPTER I. 



First Mention and Names of Cnlifomia, . 6 

Tlie Gulf of California— its Titles, . . 6 

Its Ocean Lines, Coasts, and Northern Limits, 7 

The Islands of the Ocean and Gulf Coasts, . 7 

CHAPTER II. 

The Harbors, Bays, and Ports of the Penin- 
sula, ...... 9 

Progress of Discovery and Exploration — the 
"Extra-Christian World divided between 
Spain and Portuj^al, . . . .11 

Circumnavigation ot' tlie Earth — what was be- 
lieved Square is shown to be Round, . 12 

The Great South Sea also possessed by Spain, . 13 

In search of the Spice Islands of Magellan — 
Voyage from Spain by Garcia Loyasa in 1525, 12 

Cortez sends Saavedra to find the Spice Islands, 13 

CHAPTER IIL 

First Voyage ordered by Cortez to find the 
Countries of Pearls and Gold, . . 14 

Second Voyage ordered by Cortez to find the 
Island of'California, rich in Gold and Pre- 
cious Stones, . . . . .14 

Third Voyage ordered by Cortez, . . 14 

Fourth Voyage ordered by Cortez, in which he 
takes command, .... 15 

The Fifth and Last Voyage ordered by Cortez— 
the Seven Cities, and the Grand Quivira, 
Cibola, and Totonteac, north of the Gila — 
King Tatarax with Crozier and long Beard, 
hoary and rich, . . . .16 

Discovery of the River Colorado, and confirma- 
tion made that California was a Peninsula 
and not an Island— no rich Cities or Peoples 
found, 16 

Cortez returns to Spain — the great Conquista- 
dor dies an humble Christian Sinner. . 17 

Voyaires of Villalobos and Rodriguez Cabrillo — 
" Discovery of Alta California^ . . 17 

CHAPTER IV. 

Further Vovages and Explorations after 1543 
and to l58S, . . . . .20 

The Discoveries of Juan de Fuca — they are de- 
nied as apocryphal for over 200 years — the 
Straits of Annian — De Fuca's identity pro- 
ven in 1854, ..... 21 

The First and Second Voyages of Sebastian 
Viscaino, . . . . .23 

CHAPTER V. 

Lower California Adventures from 1603 to 1700 
—ardent Pursuit of Pearls, . . 27 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Explorations and Accounts of the Coast 
Lines from 1700 to 1770— Voyages of the 
Jesuits, . . , . . .31 



CHAPTER Vn. 

English and French Notices of Lower California 
from 1700-1772— William Dampier and Rob- 
inson Crusoe make their appearance in Cali- 
fornia, ..... 35 

Notices of the Coasts of Lower California from 
1725-1800— Spanish Pilot-Book from Manil- 
la to Acapulco ante 1740 — the Admiral of 
the Galleons— Voyages of Anson, Malaspi- 
na, and others, . . . .39 

CHAPTER Vin. 

Notices of Voyages from 1800 to 1846 touching 
the Peninsula — Boston Voyage of 1808 
makes a Mint of Money, ... 41 

CHAPTER IX. 

The new Grant of Colonization to American 
Colonists — Extent in square miles and acres 
of this Grant— also of California and other 
Pacific States 47 

The great Stores of Fish, Shells, Cetacea, Pho- 
cidea, and other Marine Animals of the 
California Peninsula, ... 48 

The Reduction and Settlement of the Interior 
of the great American Peninsula from 1700 
to 1800— the Dates and Fonndations of the 
Jesuit, Franciscan, and Dominican Mis- 
sions, ..... 49 

Travelling Distances by the Old Spanish Mis- 
sion "Road, from Cape San Lucas to San 
Diego, . . . . . .59 



CHAPTER X. 

The Past and Present Population of Old Cali- 
fornia, ..... 

The Indian Tribes and Languages of the Penin- 
sula, ...... 

The Political Changes and Status— the Country 
divided into Municipalities after 1859, . 

The True and the Approximate Latitudes and 
Longitudes of Lower California Positions, 
commencing at tlie Mouth of the Colorado 
River, 56 

The Climate and Country of the California Pen- 
insula — Rains without Clouds. . . 57 

Its curious Fossils and valuable Minerals, . 58 

CHAPTER XI. 

Mineral Waters— Hot Springs— the curious Ver- 
milion-colored Caustic Waters of the Gulf- 
heads, . . . . .59 

Some of the strange Beasts and Fishes of the 
Peninsula Waters— Mermaids and Devil- 
fishes—Great Stores of Whales and Seals— 
North-Pacific Whale-fishery in 1866, . 60 

The Shell-fisheries- Aiilones and Pearls— Cora- 
lines— the Edible Oyster, . 62 

The G'.iano Deposits of the Ocean and Gulf 
Shores, . . . . . .61 



54 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER xn. 

The Native and Domesticated Animals— Moun- 
tain Sheep an(^ Goats, . . . C5 

The Native and Introduced Fruits, Grains, and 
Vegetables— Forest-Trees — no History of 
its Botany Imown, . . . .76 

The Country on the Paciflc Coast between Vis- 
caino Bay and San Diego— an American 
Fur-trapper's Account of "it in 1827, . 67 

Walker's Expedition to Lower California, . 08 

The highest Elevations of the Peninsula — Moun- 
taiu-lake and the Snow-Peaks, . . 68 

The Pious Fund of California— Dried up in 
1SG7— a California Bishopric established in 
1836— the new Bishop arrives at San Diego 
in 1841 — a Land Grant in Alta California to 
endow a College for the two Califomias, 69 

A California Bishopric for the two Californias 
made in 1836 — the new Bishop arrives in 
1841 — a Land Grant in Alta California to 
endow a College for the Bishopric issued 
in 1844 70 

The Destroyed Missions of the Colorado in 
1782 71 

The Chinese as Laborers in Lower California, 71 

CHAPTER Xni. 

The Railroad Lines to connect San Francisco 
with Lower California, ... 72 

Scraps and Fragments of Baja California Nota- 
bilia 73 

The Gates to an overilowing Commerce— im- 
mense Mineral Wealth of the Colorado Ba- 



PAQE 

sin and the Countries of the Gulf of Cali- 
fornia — Sublime Scenery of the Gulf Lines 
— Wonderful Agricultural Resources of this 
Region — Area and Population, . . 75 



The Lower California Company, . . 78 

Exploration of Lower California, . 82 
Report op Captain C. M. Scammon, of the 
U. S. Revenue Service, on the West 
Coast of Lower California, . . 123 

Journal op the Expedition of Mr. J. D. 
Hawks and Party, through the Inte- 
rior of the Peninsula of Lo-\ver Cali- 
fornia, FROM San Domingo to San Diego, 132 
Report of Dr. John A. Veatch, on Ceeros 

OR Cedros Island, . . . 143 

Extracts from a History of Old or Lower 

California, ..... 155 
Report on Feuit-Trees op Lower Califor- 
nia, 173 

Washington Territory, . . . 175 

Historical Sketch of Nevada, including 
Boundaries, Population, Aboriginal In- 
habitants, Early Settlements, etc., 185 
The Discovery of Gold in California, . 199 
Altitudes op the Principal Points on the 
Pacific Slope, . . . .199 



HISTOKICAL SUMMAEY OF LOWER CALIFORNIA, 
FROM ITS DISCOVERY IN 1532 TO 1867. 



By ALEXANDER S. TAYLOR, 

Author of the "Biblio^rafia Californica etitre 1544-1867," "The Indianology of California," etc. ; Hon. 

Mem. of the California Academy of Sciences and of the Mercantile Library of San Francisco, 

and late Clerk of the United States District Court at Monterey. 



INTRODUCTION. 

There is no such thing in existence as a present and past history of the 
California Peninsula, which may be said to have been the mother of the State 
of California. The missionary histories prior to 1700 are well as tar as they go, 
but are full of omissions, mistakes, grave errors of fact, and innumerable errors of 
type, all of which have been copied in every publication issued down to the 
present day, and making " confusion worse confounded." This little work is not 
designed as a serious history, the printed materials for which would take years 
to digest and arrange, and the consulting of immense numbers of manuscripts in 
California, Mexico, and Spain, kept secret, from government motives, which 
alone would occupy a lifetime. The sketch is intended as an historical precis 
or procession of events from the past to the present times, which has never 
been made before — a skeleton guide collated, compared, and deraigned from the 
most authentic and reliable sources, and the chapters and materials are com- 
piled and arranged in a manner, we hope, convenient and simple, the plan of 
which has never been attempted before in any work relating to the Pacitic Coast. 
It will thus, we flatter ourselves, be found useful to the immigrant, the merchant, 
the seaman and navigator, the naturalist, the journalist, the traveller, the states- 
man, the historian, the miner, the manufacturer and the speculator, and, we may 
add, it is made from the study of long years of California life. 

Having been pressed, as it were, into a remote corner of the world for over 
three centuries, the progress of events induced by the discovery of gold in 1848 
has brought thousands of ships and millions of men in sight of the peninsular 
shores for the last twenty years ; yet that immense country is still empty — a 
mere frame without a picture. But the rapid completion of railroad communi- 
cations across the continent, with hourly telegrams, the steamer lines now 
securely connecting between Cape Horn and the Oregon, the opening in 1867 
of the steamer routes to Australia and China, and the institution of legalized rail- 
road corporations to connect the Gulf of California with the Bay of San Fran- 
cisco and the Gulf of Mexico, will very soon draw, voluntarily or not, the Califor- 
nia peninsula within the periphery of events, big with the fate of the future 
States, commonwealths, nations, and empires of the great ocean which the 
Divine Father of All seems ordaininsc for the immediate future. 



6 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

CHAPTER I. 

FIRST MENTION AND NAMES OF CALIFORNIA. 

After the subjugation of the empire of Montezuma by Fernando Cortez, 
in 1622, pearls, emeralds, turquoises, garnets, and particular specimens 
of gold, silver, and copper, fell to the lot of the conquerors, among 
much other spoils of treasure. The courtiers of the Aztec emperor informed 
the Spaniards that these treasures came from the countries and coasts of 
the ocean, a great way to the west and northwest of the capital. The King 
of Michoacan and the caciques of his province of Colima called this country of 
treasures Ciguatan, a name adopted by the conquerors until they first discovered 
the shores of the gulf below 27°, when it often went by the name of Santiago, from 
a place on the coast of Tehuantepec, where Cortez dispatched his first expedi- 
tion of 1532. It was, after 1532, called Santa Cruz, from the bay where 
anchored Ximenez, the first European xolio was certainly known to have landed 
on the peninsula. At this time it also obtained the name of Islas de Perlas, 
from the accounts and specimens brought to Cortez by the companions of 
Ximenez. It was then often called the Islas Amazones, from a fable current in 
Mexico of a nation of female Avarriors in these parts, and also bay, or gulf, or coun- 
try "de Ballcnas," or whales. After the visit of Cortez in 1535, it first ac- 
quired the name of California, or the Islas de California. After the death of 
Cortez, it often went by the name of Islas Carolinas, from the Emperor (Charles 
v., or from Charles the Second of Spain, under which term it is set down in 
many old maps and charts, and as late as that of Anson in 1740. After the 
Jesuit settlement of 1690 the name of C'aZ^/b?-ma became more and more con- 
firmed, until, on the publication of the Jesuit Histories after 1 750, it became per- 
manently recognized in history, navigation, and geography, under that title. 
After the settlements of San Diego and Monterey of 1770, the lower portions 
began to be styled California Peninsular, California Antigua or Vicja, and 
Baja California, and the country beyond the CTila junction of the Colorado and 
its parallel to the ocean, as Nueva California, California Norte, and Alta Cali- 
fornia. It Avas not till the American conquest of 1846 that the name of the 
peninsula was confirmed in commerce as Lower California^ and the northern 
countries as Upper California, by which terms they are now more fully known 
in politics and letters than the Spanish titles, leaving out the political divisions 
of this last, forming subsequent to 1846 what is now known as the Pacific do- 
main of the United States of America. After a. d. 1800, the two sections were 
commonly termed Las dos Califo7'nias, or Las Californias, or in English The 
two Californias — a term so convenient as to be frequently applied to this day, 
as others are too lengthy or prolix. The Spaniards and Mexicans sometimes 
use the term La California and La Californiana, the country or pertaining to 
the things of The Californias. Mr. E. E. Hale, of Boston, brings excellent 
proof of the origin of the name California, from a Queen of the Amazons called 
California, of the Greco-Syrian countries, contained in an old Crusader romance, 
much read in the times of Cortez and Columbus, for a memoir of which see 
papers of Hale, published in 1863 and 1864. 

the gulf of CALIFORNIA ITS TITLES, 

This great arm of the Pacific, which penetrates the American continent 
deeper than any other in the New World, runs from near 23° to that 
of 31° 30', or a length of say 600 geographical miles, to where it receives the 
Avaters of the Colorado of the West. It acquired its name of the Golfo de 
Cortez, or Mar de Cortez, from the great captain, who visited it in 1537. Its 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. Y 

other names of Mar Vermiglion, Mar Rojo, and Mar Vermijo, seem to have 
been first applied in 1537-1540, after the explorations of Ulloa and Alarcon, from 
the reddish color of its waters, and the accounts given of its shores by Nuno dc 
Guzman and his ofliicers, the first conquerors of Sinaloa. After the discovery 
of its entirety by Kino, in lYOO, it became known as Mar Laurentano^ from 
the Virgin of Loretto, patroness of the California missions, Seno California, Mar 
California, when in the Jesuit maps from 1730 to 1772 it is set down as Golfo 
de California, the English of which last. Gulf of California, is what is its most 
acceptable, most confirmed, and widest-known title in 1866, The Gulf of Cali- 
fornia bathes the entire lengths of the eastern shores of Lower California and 
of the western boundaries of the States of Sinaloa and Sonora, until these lines 
are absorbed by the waters of the Colorado; that is, its shore line is 1,200 miles 
in leno-th. In its northern parts it is full of sand-bars, shoals, hidden rocks, 
shallow soundings, and dangerous currents, while its southern portions contain 
the finest harbors, bays, and anchorages, with the safest navigation for the major 
portion of the year. Its breadth ranges all the way from 20 miles at its head 
to 250 miles at its entrance between Gape San Lucas and the port of Mazatlan, 

ITS OCEAN LINES, COASTS, AND NORTHERN LIMITS, 

From Cape San Lucas, in a little below 23°, the ocean coast carries a gen- 
eral northwest direction for the distance of, say, 700 geographical miles to a 
parallel line one marine league from the southeramost point of the Bay of San 
Diego, near a place called Tia Juana, according to the Mexican treaty of 1848. 
To identify this line beyond dispute, a marble monument was erected by the 
boundary commissioners of the United States and Mexico in 1850, opposite 
the Coronado Islets, and which monument is situated in a fraction over 32° 31' 
of latitude, and 117° 06' longitude of Greenwich, The ocean shores run at 
least 100 miles farther north than those of the extreme head of the gulf. This 
section of the peninsula, for 50 nautical leagues on the sea-coast below the bound- 
ary, is one of the finest districts for health, climate, and fertility, the climate 
particularly being one of the most uniform and delightful in the world, 

THE ISLANDS OF THE OCEAN AND GULF COASTS. 

The first island on the Pacific, after passing Cape San Lucas, is that of 
Santa Margarita, which is 22 miles in length and 5 to 10 miles in breadth, ac- 
cording toDe Fleury's map of 1864, According to Payot's map of 1863, there 
are several unnamed islands in the bay of Magdalena, of which Margarita 
forms its southern defence, not at all inserted in De Fleury's map of 1864, nor 
is there any description of these either in Belcher or Findley. In fact, this 
part of the coast has never been accurately located, a crying evil, as one steamer 
and several vessels have been lost or greatly damaged in these parts since 1850. 
The small island of Cresciente is within sight of Margarita to the northeast, 
and only two or three miles from the mainland. 

About 280 miles above Margarita is the island of Natividad, some four 
miles long and two broad. This, with the island of Cedros, forms the south- 
west defences of the bay of Sebastian Viscaino, so called from that navigator's 
anchorage here in 1602, Cedros is some 25 miles long by five in breadth; to 
the west of it are the small islets of San Benito. Going up the coast, no othgr 
important islands are met with till that of San Geronimo is reached, 140 miles 
from Cedros, and situated opposite the Mission of La Rosario, and which is only 
four or five miles in length. The last island met with after Geronimo is Cenisas, 
near the bay of San Quentin, which is only two or three miles in length. 

The island of Guadclupe, nearly due west from Cedros, and 120 miles from 
the coast in lat. 28° 45', is also included in the territory of Lower California. 



8 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

The position of this island was definitely fixed by Admiral Du Petit Thouars in 
November, 1837, though it was approximately located on several old Spanish 
and other charts even prior to 1820; it is only a mass of rocks some 20 miles 
in circtimference, and has often been visited since 1850 by California otter- 
hunters and whalers. 

Going from Cape San Lucas up the gulf, about 100 miles north, the first 
island of the gulf is that of Ceralbo (or White Hills), some 12 miles in length, 
and stated to contain copper mines of great value. The second is Espiritu 
Santo, about six miles long, containing also very rich copper-mines. This last 
island blocks the mouth of the bay of La Paz, which runs southeast for some 
20 miles, in the western corners of which is the minor bay called Pichilingue, 
containing the small island of San Juan Nepoceno. The third island is the 
small one of San Francisco, in sight of which is the fourth, known as San Jose, 
and some 1 2 miles long. The fifth island is called Santa Catalina, and within five or 
six miles of it is the sixth, called Montserrat: these two are about 10 miles in 
circumference each. The seventh island is the celebrated one of Carmen, which 
/ contains beyond all dispute the richest, most peculiar, and most accessible salt- 
mine in the wdiole world, and entirely inexhaustible. The Jesuits, about 1*730, 
\ asked from the viceroy a grant of this mine in perpetuity, from which they 
V would maintain their California establishments free of cost to the king's treas- 
\ury. Carmen Island is about 25 miles long by six broad, and is within a few 
hours' sail of the old town of Loretto. Five or six miles beyond it is the eighth 
island, called Coronados, of a few miles' extent. Farther up from Carmen some 
30 miles is the ninth island, San Ildefonso, and within two or three hours' sail, 
that of Santa Isabel, the tenth, at the mouth of Moleje Bay : both of these, 
with three or four others in the bay aforesaid, are only a few miles in extent. 
The three islands called Galapagos, 30 miles above Moleje, are the eleventh, 
and are also only of a few miles' extent; the Gallapagos are some 25 miles in 
front and to the west of Tortugas Island, which is in midclianncl and within 
sight of the port of Guaymas on the Sonora coast: this island may be set 
down for the Sonora coast, and, it is said, has an extinct volcano on it. 
The thirteenth island is Trinidad, and the fourteenth San Bernarbe, both 
some 20 miles in circumference and about 40 miles above the Galla- 
pagos. The fifteenth are the Sal Si Puedes, three small islands, within sight 
of two others, known as Las Animas and Raza, which together form an archi- 
pelago very dangerous for their impetuous currents. To the west of Las Ani- 
mas, there is a number of small islands close to the mainland, which are not 
well known by name in geography. Between the mainland and these, to the 
eastward, is the Canal de Ballenas, or Whales, which divides off" the sixteenth, 
or Great Island of Angel de la Guarda, 50 miles in length and about 15 in 
breadth. Northward of Angel, some 50 miles in the bay of San Felipe de 
Jesus, is the rocky islet or farallon of Santa Felicia. Twenty miles farther 
northeast is the seventeenth island, called San Eugenio, about seven miles 
around, and sometimes called Farallon de San Eugenio, from a rocky islet close 
by, off the southern coast of which are some extremely dangerous sunken rocks 
and ledges. Immediately north of San Eugenio, at the narrowest part of the gulf, 
are the eighteenth islands, known as Las Reyes, which block the entrance of 
the Colorado and gulf. Above these last are a number of large flat islands, 
formed by the bores of the river and gulf, which are enclosed within the banks 
of the river, and a regular network of similar formations is found nearly to 
the junction of the Gila, and which all belong to Mexican territory. 

Coming down the gulf from the river on the west shore of Sonora, or 
the eastern waters of the gulf, is first the small island of Patos, which is 
some 130 miles southeast of San Eugenio. A narrow strait divides this from 
the large island of Tiburon, some 20 miles long and 10 broad, and which can 
be seen from above the city of Hermosillo in clear weather. Below Tiburon, 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 9 

some 25 miles, is San Pedro Martyr Island, and 30 miles farther south is that 
of San Marco, a few miles north of Guayraas, the bay of which port has several 
small islets. To the south of Guaymas, 50 miles, is the small island of Lobos. 
'At the mouth of the River Sinaloa are five or six small islands, amono- the 
principal of which is San Ignacio and Macapula. Below the mouth of the River 
Culiacan are several long, low islands along the coast, which are, however, very 
little known in navigation or commerce. To the south of these last, to the port 
of Mazatlan, the coast is generally clean, with open aspects; seaward at the 
mouth of the gulf, where the ocean swells, in the hurricane months, beat with 
immense surfs and rollers of overwhelming force. After the stormy season has 
past, the navigation of the gulf is one of the safest and most delightful in any 
sea, for more than eight months of the year. But the above-named islands of 
the eastern waters belong in no way to Lower California, but pertain entirely 
to Sinaloa and Sonora. 

All this immense stretch and lines of 1,200 miles of gulf coast and VOO miles 
of ocean shores, with their islands, are entirely unfixed hydrographically, either 
in books, charts, or maps, except a few points by Spanish navigators, between 
1770 and 1800, by the English and French, between 1824 and 1850, and by 
Americans, between 1846 and 1866, the most accurate of which are those of 
Admiral Belcher in 1839, confined, however, only to four or five localities on 
the ocean coast. With the wealth of minerals, fisheries, agriculture, and com- 
merce, which is opening on these wonderful territories, and the immense amount 
of shipping which sail daily within sight of its sea lines, the scientific survey of 
them by competent persons is loudly called for by tbe principal maritime 
powersj)X the world : probably it could be better done by a'joint commission 
of hydrographists of the great naval powers. There is not an island in all those 
we have mentioned, in the gulf or in the Pacific, except Santa Margarita, 
Cedros, and Guadelupe, whose true positions or superficial dimensions are known 
in navigation, geography, or history, and only a few of them are inhabited, 
and then only by a few fishermen. If all these islands, which contain immense 
resources in excellent harbors, in minerals, in fisheries, and in pearl-oyster banks, 
were joined together, they would make a district of country 100 miles long by 
80 miles broad, and at a rough estimate, they would make one-fifteenth of the 
superficies of the peninsula. 

CHAPTER 11. 

THE HARBORS, BAYS, AND PORTS OF THE PENINSULA. 

Coming from San Diego to the south on the Pacific, the best-known har- 
bors are : 

First. The Bay of Todos Santos, near which is the well-known locality, 
called the Sausal de Camacho, where salt has been procured in abundance 
since 1855. It makes a fine harbor for vessels under 400 tons, and is now often 
resorted to by whalers and others. A grant of great extent covers the lands of 
this bay, claimed by Jose Y. Limantour. 

Second. To the southward, about 100 miles, is the fine bay and port of San 
Quintin, sometimes called in maps and charts San Francisco, and also Bay of 
the Eleven Thousand Virgins of Cologne ; San Quintin is the term now gen- 
erally known in navigation. The apex of the bay at the north has valuable 
Salinas or salt-beds, which have been worked since 1853, and the salt from its 
superior quality is well known in the San Francisco markets. A large grant 
of land is also laid down here as belonging to Limantour. 

Third. To the southward, some 130 miles, is the great bay of Sebastian 
Viscaino, made by Cedros and Natividad Islands ; its Avestern aspects are en- 
tirely open to the west for one-half of its length. It has a small arm at its 



i/ 



10 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

northern apex, called Pescado Blanca, where is a valuable salt-bed, in the 
vicinity of which is the grant of Mr. Millatowitch, a well-known Russian citizen 
of California. Several extensive lagoons make into the land, according to 
Payot's map, which are laid down in no other map. A third grant, some 60 
miles long and 20 broad, covering all the neighboring lands of the bay, is also 
here claimed by Limantour. Valuable salinas are found all along the shores 
of this bay, which was discovered by Viscaino in 1602, though on many maps 
it is put down as the Bay of San Francisco and also Saint Sebastian ; on others, 
the Bay of Magdalena is located here. 

Fourth. Some 10 miles below Natividad Island is the small bay of San 
Bartholomew, often called Turtle Bay, which contains valuable fisheries of 
turtle, used for the supply of the San Francisco market. 

Fifth. One hundred miles below San Bart's, after doubhng Point Abreojos, 
is Ballenas Bay, Avhich in 27° runs into the land for 20 miles, and is the resort 
of innumerable whales in the calving season, and from which hundreds of tons 
of oil have been shipped to San Francisco and the East since 1853. 

Sixth. One hundred and fifty miles below Ballenas opens up the Great 
Gulf or Bay of La Magdalena, discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, rediscovered by 
Viscaino in 1602, and found from the descriptions of this last by the Jesuit 
Father Guillen in 1719. It is often mentioned by Spanish navigators, and is 
one of the most extensive on the west coast of America, but was not known 
properly in navigation till Admiral Belcher's visit of 1839. The bay forms 
into a great many ramifications and arms, and is about 50 miles in extreme 
length, with several low, sandy islands, as well as rocky ones ; its breadth ranges 
all the way from 5 to 20 miles. For the last 50 years it has been the resort 
of American whalers, sealers, and other hunters, and since 1854 regular estab- 
lishments of this class from California have aggregated on its shores until quite 
a settlement is now formed. It is also much resorted to by Chinamen from 
San Francisco for gathering the moUusk called aulon, the meat of which is so 
much esteemed by the wealthy people of China, 

Seventh. Some 50 miles below Magdalena the small bay of Todos Santos Mis- 
sion is reached, near which are some of the most fertile spots of the peninsula. 

Eighth. About 35 miles farther (south), at the extremity of Lower California, 
Cape San Lucas, the most celebrated promontory on the west coast of America, 
is reached. And here we begin to turn north and east up the grand portals of 
the Gulf of California, of whose best harbors, ports, and bays, we shall now 
make such detail as is warranted from what has been noted of them, not a 
single one of which, however, has been properly surveyed. 

^ Ninth. The first is the roadstead of the old Mission of San Jose, often called 
San Jose del Cabo or of the Cape, from its proximity to Cape San Lucas, and 
appears to be the same as the Bay of San Bernarbe or Porto Seguro of old 
charts; from the cape it is distant some 20 miles near the mouth of the small 
river or arroyo of San Jose. This is a frequent stopping-place for whalers, and 
the schooners running from Guaymas, Mazatlan, San Francisco, and San Bias, 
and a considerable quantity of fertile land is found in its vicinity. 

Tenth. Eighty miles above San Jose is the well-known bay of La Paz, 
which penetrates the land to the south some 25 miles from Espiritu Santo 
Island, having a varying breadth of from 6 to 10 miles. This is one of the 
safest and finest bays and harbors in the two Californias, and has been known in 
navigation and history for 350 years. It has been celebrated all this time for 
the abundance of pearl oysters, and has produced pearls among the most valued 
gems of the jeweller and lapidary, and prized in the regalia of kings, emperors, 
and princes. It was the centre of operations of the American naval and mili- 
tary forces in 1846 to 1848, and is now the depot for the Mexican coast line of 
steamers from San Francisco. Since 1830 it has been the capital of Lower Cali- 
fornia, where all government operations centre. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. H 

Tenth. The next liarbor is the small one of the old Presidio of Loretto, which 
has been known since 1700. It is formed by the Coronado and Carmen Islands, 
and makes a fine anchorage in ordinary seasons; in its vicinity the pearl oyster 
was formerly found in tlie greatest abundance. 

Eleventh. The next harbor north of Loretto of value is that of Moleje, so 
called from an Indian camp found there by the Jesuits before 1730. It is about 
20 miles deep by an average of five, and is considered the best in the gulf after 
La Paz. It is famous for the extent of its pearl-oyster banks, and was i*esorted 
to by the divers from the Sinaloa coast in the time of Cortez. 

Twelfth. Above Moleje the coast of the peninsula abounds in small harbors, 
none of which are frequented or ranch better knowti than in the time of Father 
Consag's voyage of 1746, the country having very few inhabitants above Moleje. 
The large bay of Los Angeles, 180 miles above Moleje, capable as is said 
of holding hundreds of small vessels, has been frequently resorted to within the 
last ten years, and its waters and those of Angel Island abound in a peculiar 
species of whale and rich banks of pearl oysters. Copper, sulphur, and argen- 
tiferous lead minerals are said to be very abundant in the country around its 
shores, as intimated by Consag in 1746. 

Thirteenth. Above this bay of Los Angeles, some 160 miles, is the bay and 
port of San Felipe de Jesus, which has been established since 1858, principally 
by the exertions of Mr. Millatowich, who has here another grant of land. This 
is described as a fine little harbor, and has been used by American vessels bound 
to the Colorado, and for communications overland to the Bay of San Quintin on 
the ocean coast, and for trading with the Indian tribes in the country around 
the peninsular head of the gulf. It was formerly, with that of Los Angeles, used 
by the Jesuits and the Dominicans for conveying stores and effects in the found- 
ing of the missions on the ocean coast above Santa Gertrudes between 1760 and 
1800, and since 1858 has attracted considerable attention. There is now 
(1867) said to be a small settleuient here. 

Above San Felipe there are no ports or harbors worth mentioning, as they 
are said to be shallow and but little frequented, or fitted for commerce, from the 
dangerous shoals and cayes formed by the deposits of the Colorado. All the 
foremeutioned islands, harbors, bays, and jDorts of the gulf, were first made 
known and named by Padre Pedro Ugarte, in his voyage up the gulf in 1721, 
in the sloop Triumph of the Cross, and more thoroughly and in detail by 
Father Fernando Consag in 1746, continued in small degree by Padre Winces- 
lao Link in 1765 ; since that period nothing has been done in these gulf lines of 
any account. 

PROGRESS OF DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION' THE EXTRA-CHRISTIAN WORLD 

DIVIDED BETWEEN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. 

The treaty of Saragosa, concluded at that city on the 22d April, 1529, 
between the King of Spain and the King of Portugal, by which the old under- 
standing of 1494 was confirmed, and the islands or new countries discoA'- 
ered and to be discovered should be divided between Spain and Portu- 
gal. Pope Nicholas V. in 1454 had granted his bull of approval that Por- 
tugal should have the results of all her discoveries not occupied by 
Christian people, made on the coast of Africa, and to the eastward, which about 
the time of Columbus's first voyage of 1492 they had succeeded in doubling. 
Ferdinand and Isabella in 1494 therefore procured from Pope Alexander VI. 
bulls of approval, granting them all discoveries made to the west. Acrimonious 
disputes arising under these bulls, the two powers made at the town of Torde- 
sillas the famous Treaty of Partition of the Ocean, by which all lands lying 
to the east of a meridian line 370 leagues Avestvvard of the Cape Verde Islands 
were to belong to Portugal, while all to the west of the said line fell to Spain.. 
44 



12 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

On this basis the navigators of both countries ran afoul of each other in the 
Malayan seas and archipelagos in search of the valuable spices, and the precious 
stones, pearls, and metals, Avhen all Europe Avas again put in commotion by the 
peppery disputes between the two Catholic potencies, of where East gave out, 
and where West ended. Commissioners from these two nations, then the great 
est naval powers in the world, met at the city of Badajos in Spain in 1523, but 
without effecting any settlement. The second commissions then came together 
at the city of Saragossa in Spain, and on the 22d of April, 1529, aforesaid, a 
final treaty of limits was effected by the King of Spain selling to the King of 
Portugal all his rights to the islands of the Moluccas, for the sum of 350,000 
ducats of gold, equivalent to $3,080,000 of our money, and for Spain to retire 
within limits east of the said Moluccas. This arrangement greatly aftected and 
stimulated the subsequent discovery, exploration, and conquest of the continents 
and islands bathed by the waters of the great South Sea, now called the Pacific, 
and hastened materially a better knowledge of the Californias, and the islands 
of the great Eastern Archipelagos. 

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE EARTH — WHAT WAS BELIEVED SQUARE IS SHOWN 

TO BE ROUND. 

Only a few years before, Fernando Magallanes with three Spanish ships, after 
a perilous passage of thirty-seven days through the straits which bear his name, 
entered a boundless horizon of water, which he named the Pacific Ocean, on the 
27th day of November, 1520. So greatly was he aftected that he shed tears of 
joy, and ordered thanks to be returned to God throughout his fleet. Sailing to 
the north and west he arrived at the Western, now called Philippine islands, and 
was killed at the Island of Matan in that group, on the 2'7tli of Aj^ril, 1521. 
After many escapes from peril by sea and land, Juan Sebastian del Caiio brought 
the ship Victoria with 18 men, from the Moluccas, by the way of the Cape of 
Good Hope, back through the Straits of Gibraltar, and came to anchor at the 
port of San Lucas, in Spain, on the 6th September, 1522 ; the vessel being the 
first which had made the circumference of the earth, and confirmed the theory 
of men of learning who argued this fact from the figure of our plauet when in 
eclipse with the sun. For this great feat, the Emperor Charles V. made Del Ca- 
no a grandee of Spain, and his 18 companions were all highly recompensed and 
honored. Thus it came to pass that the sun never set on the empire of Spain. 

THE GREAT SOUTH SEA ALSO POSSESSED BY SPAIN. 

But it was nine long years before Magellan's circumnavigation, that Vasco 
Nunez de Balboa saw from the mountains of the Isthmus the great sea, without 
limits of horizon, to the southwest, and on the 25th September, 1513, he entered 
the ocean at Panama, and took possession of the South Seas for the King of Spain. 

IN SEARCH OF THE SPICE ISLANDS OF MAGELLAN — VOYAGE FROM SPAIN BY 
GARCIA LOYASA IN 1525. 

In the year 1525, on the 24th July, the Emperor Charles V. dispatched 
Garcia Jofre de Loyasa, with a fleet of six vessels and 450 men, from Corunna, in 
Spain, to take possession of the Spice Islands, in which expedition went Andres 
de Urdanetta as one of the pilots, who afterward became an Augustine monk, 
and was in the expedition of Legaspi in 1564. 

The Pataca, commanded by Jago de Guevara, the smallest vessel inLoyasa's 
fleet, which had separated in a storm on the first of June, after entering the Pa- 
cific by the Straits of Magellan, steered along the west coast of America, and 
came to anchor at Tehuantepec, on the 25th July, 1526, after a passage of 55 
■days ; Captain Guevara and his chaplain. Friar Arreyzaga, were conducted to 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 13 

Cortez, in the city of Mexico. This is the first voyage on record from the coasts 
of Chili to the coasts of Mexico. The remaining vessels of the fleet crossed the 
equator, and in latitude 4° north, on the 30th July, 1526, Loyasa, the captain- 
general of the expedition, died, and was succeeded by Sebastian del Cano, who 
had been sent by the emperor as second in command. Del Cano also died at 
sea, four days after Loyasa. Torribio Alonzo de Salazar Avas then chosen com- 
mander, and immediately sailed for the Ladrone Islands, where they ari'ived on 
the 4th September, after leaving which, Salazar himself died on the 10th. Martin 
Iniguez was then chosen commander. On the 31st December Iniguez anchors 
at Tidore, of the Moluccas, and is immediately menaced by the Portuguese. 
Iniguez also dying, Hernando de la Torre was chosen commander, who, at Gil- 
lolo Island, met with the fleet of xVlvaro de Saavedra, sent by Cortez from Mexico 
in 1527, to cooperate with Loyasa's fleet. The expeditions meeting with great 
trouble from the Portuguese, and Saavedra dying, De la Torre offered to cease 
all opposition, if the Spaniards were returned by them to Spain. This was 
effected, and IJrdanetta and De la Torre passed to Europe by the way of Por- 
tuguese India, thence to Lisbon, and arrived in Spain in February, 1537, having 
left the Moluccas in 1534, and departed from Corunna in July, 1525: it had 
taken them twelve years to get round the world. 

CORTEZ SENDS SAAVEDRA TO FIND THE SPICE ISLANDS. 

The emperor had pressed on Cortez the discovery of a strait dividing the 
continent, and the finding a way from New Spain to the Islands of Spices, Ma- 
gellan's vessel having brought a large quantity of those valuable materials, then 
selling at immense prices in Europe. The Pataca, under Guevara, arriving in 
Mexico about this time, Cortez was stimulated to effect promptly these great ob- 
jects, and accordingly dispatched his kinsman, Alvara de Saavedra, with three 
ships, the Florida, the St. Jago, and the Espiritu Santo, with 110 men. These 
sailed from the port of Sihuantanejo, in West Mexico, on the 31st October, 1527. 
Steering to the Avest, they met with great sufferings, losing two vessels of the 
fleet, and Saavedra, in the other, arriving at the Ladrone Islands in January, 
1528. From thence he visited Mindando, and finally joined the last vessel of 
Loyasa's unfortunate fleet, under De la Torre, at Gillolo, of the Spice Islands, 
who would not credit that Saavedra's ship had come from New Spain, until after 
cautious inquiries. Saavedra repaired his ship at Tidore, took aboard seventy 
quintals of cloves, and the 3d June, 1528, Avith only 30 men, set sail from Ti- 
dore to return to Ncav Spain, but after reaching lat. 14° north, and meeting with 
many misfortunes, was compelled to turn back to Tidore again, Avhere he arrived 
in October, and again repaired his vessel. In May, 1529, he left this island, 
again to return to Mexico by the Avay of New Guinea, and, after a short stay at 
the islands Los Jardines (in l76° W. of Greenwich), died at sea. Before dying, he 
called his men together, and made Pedro Lasso commander. Saavedra Avas a good 
man, and greatly respected by his men, and had formed a plan for opening a 
passage by sea through the Isthmus of America. Lasso died at sea eight days 
after Saavedra, and it Avas Urdanetta, as would seem from the confused Spanish 
accounts, who brought back Saavedra's vessel to the Spice Islands, Avhere he 
arrived Avith only 18 men, and joined De la Torre. Here, from reports that the 
Emperor Charles V. had sold the Spice Islands to Portugal, they fell into dis- 
putes, wars, and misfortunes with the Portuguese and the natives, and finally, 
being greatly reduced in men in both ships, by scurvy and other sickness, en- 
tered into a treaty of peace Avith the Portuguese, until both parties could hear 
from Europe. After many delays they gave themselves up, the Portuguese 
agreeing in 1534 to return them to Europe, and they reached Spain, after a 
■ tedious and dangerous journey, in India, Asia, and the Mediterranean, in February, 
1537, as mentioned in the account of Loyasa's expedition. The two expeditions, 



14 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

wliicb had cost so miicli money and so many lives, experienced, from first to last, 
a sad and innumerable train of trials, dangers, deaths, shipwrecks, misfortunes, and 
disgraces, which greatly affected the j^ublic sentiment in Spain and Mexico, par- 
ticularly when the emperor's sale of the Moluccas was made known through the 
final treaty of Saragossa of 1529, this treaty being essentially promoted by the 
difficulties and complications growing out of the operations of the forces of Lo- 
yasa and Saavedra. 

CHAPTER III. 

FIRST VOYAGE ORDERED BY CORTEZ TO FIND THE COUNTRIES OF PEARLS 

AND GOLD. 

In 1528 Fernando Cortez dispatched, from Tehuantcpec, Cristoval de Olid 
and Diego Hurtado de Mendoza in five vessels to make discoveries to the north 
and to the south, while he went to Europe (in 1528) to defend himself against 
his enemies. This enterprise, like the one sent by him from Zacatula in the 
same year under Pedro Nunez Maldonado (or Francisco Maldonado), who went 
np as high as the river of Santiago, in Jalisco, resulted in nothing of material 
interest, except stimulating the desire of Cortez to know more of the northern 
countries. 

SECOND VOYAGE ORDERED BY CORTEZ, TO FIND THE ISLAND OF CALIFORNIA, 
RICH IN GOLD AND PRECIOUS STONES. 

After returning from Spain to Mexico, in 1530, where he was made Mar- 
quis of Oaxaca by the emperor, with the authority to make further conquests, 
Cortez got ready four vessels, named La Concepcion, San Lazaro, San Marcos, 
and San Miguel. These last two he placed under Hurtado de Mendoza of the 
1528 enterprise, directing him to make explorations to the north and west 
among the islands and coasts of New Spain, and to find the Island of California, 
rich in gold and precious stones. He had thus dispatched, since 1527, four 
expeditions of discovery, viz. : Saavedra's, De Olid and Mendoza' s, Maldonado's 
and the present again under Mendoza. This last now sailed from Acapulco on 
the 3d June, 1532, and, exploring the coast, came to anchor at Aguatlan, or 
Santiago de Buen Esperanza, in 20° ; from thence to the port of Matanchel in 
21° : in a few days afterward he found the Magdalena or Tres Marias Islands, 
GO miles to the northwest. After this he proceeded slowly along the coast till 
he made 27° or near the mouth of the Mayo River. Meeting with a constant 
series of storms, attacks from the natives, short provisions, and his crews in a 
mutinous state, he determined to send one vessel back by sea, while with the 
other he continued his voyage to the north. The returning vessel was wrecked 
at the mouth of the Vanderas, near Cape Corrientes, when all but three men were 
killed by the Indians, and the vessel was seized by the soldiers of Nuno de 
Guzman. Of Mendoza's vessel nothing more is known than rumors prevailed 
of his being wrecked farther north, with the loss of all on board. None of his 
crew ever returned. The three survivors from the Indian attack reached Cortez 
in 1531, several months afterward, and from their accounts strong representa- 
tions were made by him against Guzman before the royal x^udiencia of Mexico, 

THIRD VOlTAGE ORDERED BY CORTEZ. 

On the 30th October, 1533, Cortez dispatched from Tehuantepec the Con- 
cepcion and San Lazaro on the search after Mendoza and to further explore to 
the north. The first was under Diego Becerra, with Fortun Ximenez for pilot, 
and the second under Hernando Grijalva, with Martin de Acosta for pilot. 
The two vessels a few days afterward separated in a storm. Grijalva, stretch- 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 15 

iDg to the west, discovered the islands of Saint Thomas, now the Revilla Gige- 
dos, and reached near the latitude of San Bias, after which, in the spring of 
1534, he returned in the San Lazaro, and came to anchor at Acapulco. It 
was in this voyage that the old captain met with the California mermaid, a sea 
mammal seldom exceeding 36 inches in length or of the weio-ht of seven or 
eight pounds. 

The Concepcion, under Becerra, stretched farther north along the coast of 
Jalisco, when, his crew mutinying, he was murdered by his pilot, Fortun Xime- 
nez : the scene of this atrocity must have been in the vicinity of the present 
Mazatlan, as Ximenez immediately after stretched directly west, and came to a 
new coast, never before visited, and anchored in a small bay which they called 
Santa Cruz, Here Ximenez and 20 of his men were killed by the Indians, 
while the survivors made their escape in the Concepcion with many pearls and 
curious things obtained, and took her over to the roadstead of Chiametla, 
which is set down now on maps as a few leagues south of Mazatlan, Here she 
was also seized by De Guzman and her men made prisoners ; on ascertaining 
which, Cortoz made energetic representations to the Audiencia, who were afraid 
both of himself and Guzman, and gave him no satisfaction, notwithstanding he 
was then out of pocket 70,000 eastellanos in gold, by his various sea expedi- 
tions. 



FOURTH VOYAGE ORDERED BY CORTEZ, IN WHICH HE TAKES COMMAND. 

Fired with indigniity at such outrages on his rights, he assembled an army 
of 400 Spaniards and 300 negroes, mounted and on foot, and reared and tore 
up along the valleys of the coast, determined to punish Guzman and his minions ; 
sending his veszels, the Santa Agueda and Santo Tomas, in August, 1531, 
from Tehuantepec to Chiametla, where he recaptured the San Lazaro from the 
party of Guzman : these two old rovers, however, were prudent enough not to 
engage in pitched battle. 

From Chiametla, on the loth April, 1535, he sailed with his fleet to the west 
for the place where Ximenez was killed, and his escaped companions had brought 
such fine pearls. On the 1st of May he found an island, called by him Santia- 
go, probably Ceralbo or Espiritu Santo, and on the 3d came to anchor in the 
bay where Ximenez and his men were killed in 1533, This bay is the same 
accepted in history as that now called the Bay of La Paz, but which Cortez 
named the Bay of Santa Cruz, which was solemnly taken possession of for the 
crown of Spain, Here he landed with 130 men and 40 horses, and sent back 
two of his vessels to Chiametla to bring the remainder of his land forces. These 
soon returned with a portion of the forces, and were immediately dispatched 
back to bring the remainder, from which, however, only one returned, the other 
being lost in the succession of storms then prevailing, Cortez then himself 
returned to Chiametla, from whence he again landed at Santa Cruz after the 
greatest dangers, and just in time to prevent his forces there from dying of 
starvation. Explorations were now made on every side by land and sea, and 
so twelve months passed without finding any great cities or mines, or the long- 
sought strait. His men were now discontented and mutinous. His wife, 
Juana de Zuiiiga, hearing he was wrecked or dead, sent a vessel, in 1537, to 
Santa Cruz to verify the truth, with the news that Don Antonio de Mendoza, 
the new Viceroy of Mexico, had arrived. On receiving this news, Cortez imme- 
diately departed in one of his vessels, leaving his remaining ships, armaments, 
and men in California, under the command of Francisco de UUoa. On the way 
he met with the vessel under Hernando Grijalva, and both entered the port of 
Acapulco, about April, 1537. UUoa, finding every thing going on bad m the 
settlement, returned with all his expedition to New Spain, early in 1538. 



16 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

THE FIFTH AND LAST VOYAGE ORDERED BY CORTEZ THE SEVEN CITIES, AND 

THE GRAND QUIVIRA, CIBOLA, AND TOTONTEAC, NORTH OF THE GILA 

KING TATARAX WITH CROZIER AND LONG BEARD, HOARY AND RICH, 

About this time all New Spain was in a whirl of excitement from the 
arrival of Cabeza de Vaca, who liad landed, in 1527, in Tampa Bay in Florida, 
and had wandered with several companies across the continent until they 
arrived at Culiacan of Sinaloa, in 1536, after great perils. And growing out 
of this were the reports of Friar Marcos de Noza, who with some companions 
had wandered from Culiacan, in 1539, to a new, strange country to the north, 
where were many rich countries full of gold, silver, and precious stones, called 
Cibola, Totonteac, and Grand Quivira, and in those countries was a king, 
called Tatarax with a long beard, hoary and rich, who worshipped a cross of 
gold and the image of the Queen of Heaven. This country, heard of also by 
De Vaca, was the same we now call Central and North Arizona, and Friar Mar- 
cos said they were populous in many peoples. To prove this. Viceroy Men- 
doza set on foot, in 1540, the expedition of Francisco Vasquez de Coronado to 
go by land, who got up as high in New Mexico as latitude 40°. In concert 
with these he also sent Fernando de Alarcon with two vessels, who proceeded 
up the gulf, and ascended the Colorado beyond the Gila. But neither of these 
expeditions found the great cities of gold nor the powerful and populous king- 
doms. Excited by these movements, and to 1-ecover himself of his great losses, 
Cortez determined to prepare another expedition to find out the great kingdoms 
and rich peoples of the north. This expedition consisted of the barks Santa 
Agueda, Santo Tomas, and La Trinidad, which were placed by him under com- 
mand of his old ofhcer Francisco de UUoa, who sailed from Acapulco on the 
8th of July, 1539. A few days out at sea the Santa Agueda broke her main- 
mast. After repairing at the port of Colima, they left again, and shortly after 
the Santo Tomas sunk at sea in a great storm. With the other two vessels be 
sailed up, as would seem, on the Sonora side, to the head of the gulf, and find- 
ing the two shores meet, returned down along the peninsular coasts until he 
came to anchor in his old port of Santa Cruz on the 18th October, 1539. 
Sailing out on the 29th, he steered south, and, doubling a high promontory, 
turned his ships north along the coast of the Pacific. After a stormy and dan- 
gerous voyage, attacked by Indians, and his men reduced by sickness, he 
worked his way north as far a^ 30°, and on the 20th January, 1540, discovered 
the island of Cedros or Cerros. In a terrible storm liereabouts the vessels 
were separated. By some it is said Ulloa was never heard of afterward nor 
his vessel, while the Santa Agueda found her way back in safety to Acapulco, 
and gave the first accounts of the Sea of Cortez making a peninsula of the 
land. Other chroniclers, as Gomarro and Bernal Dias, say Ulloa returned in 
safety and afterward died in the province of Jalisco. 

On the ocean coast were found no great countries or populous kingdoms, 
nor spice islands, nor cities, the streets whereof were paved with gold and 
silver. Francisco Presciado, an officer of the Santa Agueda, on his return to 
Spain, several years afterward, published a history of this voyage, which is to 
be found in Hakluyt and Ramusio, and is of very great interest in California 
history. Thus was a name given to the land, and called California ; and the 
gulf without an outlet north named the Sea of Cortez. 

DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER COLORADO, AND CONFIRMATION MADE THAT CALIFORNIA 
WAS A PENINSULA AND NOT AN ISLAND NO RICH CITIES OR PEOPLES FOUND. 

To assist the expeditions of Vasquez Coronado, Viceroy Mendoza dispatched 
from Acapulco, on the Slst of May, 1541, Hernando Alarcon, Avith the barks 
San Pedro and Santa Catalina. Sailing along the Sonora coast, he reached in 
safety the head of the gulf, and discovering there the mouth of a great river, 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 17 

called by some anterior Spaniards tlie Buen Guia, wliicli be renamed tbe River 
of Our Lady of Buena Guia^ or, as be elsewbere terms it, tbe River Tisones or 
Flre-hrands • tbe same called by one of tlie Pima tribes tbe River Tamosatzin^ 
and by tbe Yuma Indians Hcmheelchawot ; the river Gila is called by tbem 
Haqiiisiseel. In boats be made two voyages to a distance of some 250 miles 
up tbe stream, wbere bigb mountains and rocks sbut in tbe river. He found 
neitber great cities nor gold nor diamonds, but made note for tbe first time of 
the dangerous bores and overflows from the river. Tbe Viceroy also dispatched 
a land force in connection with Alarcon's from Culiacan, under Melcbor Dias to 
explore tbe country on tbe Sonora side, but, after passing many deserts, and meet- 
ing with great misfortunes, be returned without cftecting any thing important. 

His pilot, Domingo Castillo, made a chart of both coasts of the gulf, in 
which the connection of tbe river is plainly shown for tbe first time, and which 
still exists in tbe archives of Spain and Mexico. This map was published by 
Archbishop Lorenzano at Mexico in 1770, in his letters of Cortez. Not meeting 
with any of Coronado's parties or men, Alarcon returned with bis vessels to 
Acapulco, satisfied that be bad got four degrees higher north than tbe last of 
that of Cortez. But tbe viceroy, vexed at his want of success, gave Alarcon the 
cold shoulder, and be died soon after in Mexico, in disgrace. 

CORTEZ RETURNS TO SPAIN — THE GREAT CONQUISTADOR DIES AN HUMBLE 
CHRISTIAN SINNER. 

Stung to the quick at the expeditions which Mendoza bad promoted under 
Coronada de Noza, Alvarado, and Alarcon, which all invaded bis rights as ade- 
lantado and admiral of the South Sea countries, Fernando Cortez returned to 
Spain in 1540, to get relief from tbe emperor from tbe power of bis enemies, 
and remuneration for bis losses. After attending the court for seven years, dis- 
gusted with delays and broken in spirit, tbe great captain met the grim con- 
queror of all in bis own bed at- tbe town of Castilleja de la Cuesta on tbe 2d 
December, 1547. His body was afterward removed to tbe city of Mexico, and 
buried in tbe vault of a chapel built with bis own funds. He was, s.\vs the old 
chronicler, a man truly worthy of immortal reputation, bis zeal most ardent for 
the propagation of religion. For bis sins be was chastised by Providence, the 
just avenger of the weak, who, thus bumbling him by an old age of troubles, 
mortifications, and losses, enabled him to meet bis end in a manner becoming 
a good Christian, and lo show him tbe utter vanity of human riches and re- 
nown. 

The great conqueror had written to his master tbe emperor in 1522 : 
" They tell me that Ciguatan is an island inhabited by women without any 
men, although at certain times they are visited by men from tbe mainland, and 
if tbe women bear female children they are protected, but if males they are 
driven from their society. They also tell me it is very rich in pearls and gold, 
respecting which I shall labor to obtain the truth, and to give your majesty a 
full account of it." Thus his life went out. He bad fulfilled his appointed 
destiny ; he had spent, as some pretend, what would equal three millions 
of dollars of our money to conquer California. Tbe Amazonians were not found, 
but, centuries after, others picked up tbe gold and pearls. He merely lighted 
the way — he bore tbe heat and burden of the day, be perplexed and worried 
his soul till bis bead was gray, and others were to step in and open tbe box of 
concealed treasures. 

VOYAGES OF VILLALOBOS AND RODRIGUEZ CABRILLO DISCOVERY OF ALTA 

CALIFORNIA. 

Pedro Alvarado, the conqueror of Guatemala, having at great cost 
assembled a fleet of twelve vessels at the port of Navidad or Natividad, to 
second bis laud expedition in connection with those of tbe viceroy's under 



18 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

Coronado and Alarcoii to outwit tlie enterprises of Cortez to the north and west 
of Mexico, and Alvarado having died at Ezatlan, near Guadalajara, iu 1541, 
from the effects of a fall from his horse, the Viceroy Mendoza assumed charge 
of his expeditionary materials, the vessels then going rapidly to destruction. 
Five ships were repaired and put under the charge of his brother-in-law, Ruy 
Lopez de Villalobos, having on board 870 men, who was dispatched from the 
port of Natividad on the 1st of November, 1542, to make discoveries and con- 
quests in the Western or Philippine Islands, and which expedition, from numer- 
ous misfortunes, came to an untimely end ; Villalobos never even sighted 
the coasts of California, nor came within 200 miles of the peninsula. 

On the 27th June, 1542, the viceroy despatched two more of Alvarado's 
ships, named San Salvador and La Vitoria, from the port of Natividad or La 
Purificacion, under command of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portugese naviga- 
tor of high character, then serving in the Spanish navy. Cabrillo was directed 
to continue the discoveries on the ocean coast above TTlloa's last point of Cedros 
Island. On the 2d June he says he got a " sight of California," anchored at 
" Puerto San Lucas " on the 5th, doubled the land, and on the 8th came to 
Punta Trinidad in 25° ; about the 20th discovered the " Puerta de la Mada- 
lena;" in 23 leagues from Madalena found a great bay, which he called Puerto 
de Santiago, in 27° 30' ; five leagues farther discovered some dangerous rocks, 
called by him Abreojos; in 28° found a port called by him Santa Anna; on 
27tli July found the deep bay, Port Fondo, six leagues from Santa Anna; on 
tlie first of Angust found the port of San Pedro Vincula in 28° 30', in sight of 
" Isla de Zedros," from " California to which place they met no Indians." To 
the southeast of Zedros four leagues, found the island San Esteban, beyond 
which was a grand bay (or ensenada), probably that noAV called Sabastian Vis- 
caino, covered in places with immense sea-weeds; on August 10th took in 
wood and water on Cedros Island, which is in 29° ; in ten leagues farther, 
in 30° short, he found the fine port of Santa Clara; on the 15th found the 
Punta del Mai Abrigo in 30° 30' ; and ten leagues farther on found the island 
San Bernardo. Hereabouts the country Avas beautiful, and covered with many 
trees. On the 20th August, after sailing seven leagues from San Bernardo, he 
came to Punta del Engano (or Deception), in 31°, after passing which, ten 
leagues farther, on the 22d August, he entered a beautiful and safe harbor in 31° 
30', named by him the "Puerto de la Posesion," where he took possession of 
the country " in the name of his majesty, and the illustrious Senor Don An- 
tonio de Mendoza." Here he stopped several days, and took in wood and 
water, discovering a large salina near by, the Indians he met with telling him 
by signs they had seen, five days' journey in the interior, people who were 
clothed and armed like Cabrillo's men, and had maize and many dogs, on which 
the captain gave them a letter to convey to these Spaniards ; probably they 
had seen the men of Alarcon's or Coronado's expeditions. These Indians were 
anointed with a kind of white bitumen or asphaltum. On the 27th August he left 
the port, and two leagues tarther found the small island San Augustin, where he 
was compelled to anchor from a heavy storm. Here he found signs of people 
and two cow's-horns, also great numbers of drift-logs of immense sizes, measur- 
ing 60 feet long, and taking two men's stretched arms to embrace them, which 
logs appeared to be of cypress-wood. 

On the 3d September he left the island, and on the 8th, in 32° 30', found the 
Cape San Martin, near which he discovered a small lagoon of sweet water, and 
where he met with a band of forty Indians, who gave him fish and the roots of 
maguey roasted. The land in the vicinity of this cape made a large fine valley, 
with many smaller ones. Leaving this place, he came up a few days afterward, in 
33°, with a point which he named Cape de la Cruz, where there Avas neither 
Avood, Avater, nor Indians, but after passing which, he says, " from La Califor- 
»iia to this place the shores are all very sandy, but from hence commences a 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 19 

country of different character and much better." On the l7th September they 
left this cape, and six leagues farther on discovered the tine port of San Mateo, 
in 33° 20', passing a small island close to the mainland. Here they saw again 
immense numbers of drift-logs, and large flocks of animals like the sheep of 
Peru (or alpacas), with long wool and small horns, " do un xeme en luengo," 
or four inches long and an inch thick, with small round tails. These were no 
doubt what are now known as the aiitelopes of California, as they were formerly 
abundant in the north parts of the peninsula. 

On the 23d he left San Mateo, and, sailing for 26 leagues along a fertile- 
looking coast containing beautiful valleys and groves, they passed three small 
desert islands in 34°, situated three leagues fi-om the mainland, named by him 
Islas Desiertas, the same now called Las Coronadas. 

On Thursday, the 28th of September, about six leagues distant from the 
islands to the north-nortlnvest, Cabrillo entered a beautiful and land-locked 
harbor, which he named San Miguel, now known as San Diego, which he 
fixes in 34° 20', and where he remained till the 3d of October. Here com- 
mence the first discovery and the primary explorations of the coasts of Alta 
California, Cabrillo having passed the present limits of the peninsula. 

In all these latitudes notated by Cabrillo it is to be borne in mind that his 
instruments were extremely defective both for observing latitudes and measuring 
the space passed over the Avater daily by the vessel. For instance : 

San Diego in 1542 is made to be in latitude 84° 20' 

U. S. Coast Survey by Davidson makes it in 1858. , . . 32° 41' 



Excess by Cabrillo 1° 39' 

Or say 100 miles too much north. The Coast Survey instruments being the 
most approved of modern ones, in which but trifling errors can occur, as the ob- 
servations are made on shore, makes their standard, at it were, indisputable. 

The most of the geographical names inserted by Cabrillo in the foregoing, 
and those given by him in his explorations to the north, between San Diego and 
Cape Mendocino, were almost entirely ignored by Sebastian Viscaino in his voy- 
age of 1G02, for what reason has never been determined ; Viscaino never even 
alluding to Cabrillo's services in his account given in Torquemada and Venegas. 

As Cabrillo's voyage was the first complete reconnoissance made of the ocean 
coasts of Lower California, we shall here insert the names he gave and those 
punctuated by Navarette, in his remarks on Cabrillo's voyage, in his " History of 
Spanish Explorations on the North Pacific Coasts," and as known on Spanish 
charts in 1802, premising that Navarette's critique on this celebrated voyage is 
found very meagre and defective when comparing it with the verbatim original 
of Cabrillo in Smith's collection of 1857, which occupies twenty times more type 
than Navarette's notations : 

Cape San Lucas by Cabrillo in 1542 — C. San Lucas by Navarette in 1802. 

Punta Trinidad by Cabrillo in 1542— Punta Trinidad of Margarita Island in 1802, 

Puerto de la Madalena by Cabrillo in 1542 — Bay of Magdalena in 1802. 

Santa Catalina y Santiago by Cabrillo in 1542 — Las Abreojos Islets in 1802, 

Santa Anna by Cabrillo in 1542 — Asuncion Island in 1802. 

Puerto Fondo or S. Pedro Advincula by Cabrillo in 1542 — Port San Bartolomco in 1802. 

Isia de Cedros or Zedros by Cabrillo in 1542 — Island of Cerros in 1802. 

Mai Abrigo by Cabrillo in 1542 — Punta de Canoas in 1802. 

San Bernardo Island by Cabrillo in 1542 — Island San Geronimo in 1802. 

Punta Engano (or Deception) by Cabrillo in 1542 — Cabo Baxo in 1802. 

Puerto Posesion by Cabrillo in 1542 — Bay of Las Virgenes in 1802. 

San Augustin puerto by Cabrillo in 1542 — In San Martin Island in 1802. 

Cabo San Martin by Cabrillo in 1542— Point in San Quintin Bay in 1802. 

Puerto San Mateo by Cabrillo in 1542— Bay of Todos Santos in 1802. 

Islas Desiertas by Cabrillo in 1542 — Las Coronadas in 1802. 

Puerto San Miguel by Cabrillo in 1542— Bay of San Diego in 1802. 



20 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

After 1802 many of the geographical terms of Navarette were again altered, 
leaving this matter at the present time in great confusion. 



CHAPTER IV. 

FURTHER VOYAGES AND EXPLORATIONS AFTER 1543 AND TO 1588. 

From the unsuccessful results of the explorations of De Niza and Coronado 
by land and the voyages of Alarcon, Ulloa, and Cabrillo by sea to find the 
wealthy kingdoms and cities to the north and west of Jalisco and Sinaloa, 
counterparts of those of Mexico and Peru, and because no strait or entrance by 
water had been found leading from the Pacific to the Atlantic, the Spanish 
statesmen came to the conclusion that no such countries were in existence, except 
probably those to the north of 40° ; and it appears to have been decided, if such 
were known to other nations, it would be detrimental to the interests and policy 
of Spain. 

The next mention of the California coasts is when Andres de Urdaneta, a 
mariner by profession and companion of Loyasa, and Avho went with Miguel 
Legaspi in 1564 to conquer the Philippines, was sent in 1565 as a pilot of a 
vessel sent from thence by Legaspi to Mexico ; at this time Urdanetta bad 
become a monk of the order of Saint Augustin. Urdanetta steered his vessel 
up north as high as 43° in search of the northwest winds, which he met with, 
and with which he first made the west coast of America near Cape Mendocino, 
and then dropping down the line of the coast until he made the end of the pen- 
insula or the country of Cortez, and so stretched off to the east and south for 
Acapulco : he is not known to have landed in any part of California above or below 
San Diego. His derrotero, or course drawn oft" on a chart, was iised by the 
Spaniards between Manilla and Acapulco for a hundred years afterward. 
After the year 1570 vessels regularly sailed twice a year between Manilla an.d 
Acapulco, following the route laid down by Urdaneta to Mendocino, and so to 
Cape San Lucas and then to Acapulco, and in going from Mexico stretched off 
from Acapulco to the west till they made Guam and the Ladrones, and so to the 
Philippines. 

Alvaro de Mendano, who was sent by the Viceroy of Peru in 1567 to dis- 
cover the Solomon Islands near New Guinea, returned to Mexico by the way of 
California, and anchored near Cedros Island in December of that year, from 
whence he departed for the Mexican coast, and thence to Lima, where he arrived 
in the spring of 1558. 

In 1579 Sir Francis Drake, after capturing a rich galleon near Payta in Peru, 
and sacking Guatulco, above Tehuantepec, and getting with other prizes thereby 
nearly two millions of dollars in his ship, the Golden Hind, stoocl up along the 
coast of California, and anchored near Punta Los Reyes in June. From hence he 
sailed to the Philippines and Moluccas, and so via Cape of Good Hope to Plym- 
outh in England in September, 1580, the Golden Hind being the second ship, 
and Drake the first Englishman, who had circumnavigated the earth. He did 
not touch at any point in Lower California. 

In 1582 Francisco de Galle made a voyage from Manilla and Macao, and 
discovered the coast of California in 37° 30', which was entirely bare of snow ; the 
sea was covered with branches of trees and vegetation brought down by great 
rivers; this was likely when in the vicinity of the Golden Gate after heavy rains. 
He mentions the island Cedros, and those not far off called San Augustiu and 
San Martin, and afterward Cape San Lucas, from whence he sailed to Acapulco, 
where he sent an account of his voyage to the viceroy. 

In July, 1856, Sir Thomas Cavendish sailed from Plymouth, in England, in 
a fleet equipped at his ov/n expense, consisting of the Desire, of 120 tons, the 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 21 

Content, of 60, and the Hugh Gahant, of 40 tons, with crews amounting to 123 
men, to carry the war between Spain and England into the countries beyond 
Cape Horn. Having burnt and sacked several towns on the coasts of Chili, 
Peru, and Mexico, and captured many ships and procured great treasures there- 
by, he obtained notice of a rich Manilla galleon, and determined to watch for 
her, and sighted Cape San Lucas on the 14th of October, 1587, and continued 
cruising in that vicinity till the 4th November. He now had only the Desire 
and the Content, and with these came to action near the cape on this last date 
with the galleon Santa Ana, of 700 tons, commanded by Don Tomas de 
Alzola, which after a desperate encounter he captured, making prize of " 122,000 
pesos of gold," or as some say the value of $3,000,000 in silver, besides 
a valuable cargo of China goods amounting to forty tons. After this he run 
his vessels into the harbor called then Aguada Scgura or Porto Seguro, and 
since the bay of San Bernarbe, a few miles east of Cape San Lucas. Here he 
burnt the prize and liberated his prisoners, who numbered, male and female, 190 
persons. Taking from them two Japan lads of 20 and l7 years, three Manilla 
men, and a Spanish and Portuguese pilot belonging to the galleon, Cavendish 
left his California anchorage on the 19th of November for the Philippines, but a 
day or two out the Content was separated from the Desire, and never heard ot 
afterward ; she had a tempting lot of gold, silver, and other treasures aboard of 
her, gathered on the west coast, and probably some bay, port, or island of Lower 
California holds her undiscovered bones and spoils of silver and gold to this 
day. The Spaniards on the departure of Cavendish saved the remnants of the 
Santa Ana's hulk, and, with some sea-gear left by the conquerors, reconstructed 
her and made their way to Acapulco, and gave account of their disaster to the 
viceroy. 

Cavendish, having cruised among the Philippines and Moluccas for some 
weeks, finally left the island of Java in March, 1588, for the Cape of Good 
Hope, which they doubled in May, and finally arrived at Plymouth on the 9th 
September, 1588, after an absence from England of nearly twenty-six months, 
"I have," says the old fellow, " navigated along the coasts of Chili, Peru, and 
Nova Spagna, where I made great spoils ; I burnt 19 ships, small and great, and 
all the villages and towns I landed at I burnt and spoiled." Master Francis 
Pretty, who had been a companion of Drake in the Golden Hind, and who 
wrote an account of that voyage at the great admiral's request, was also an offi- 
cer in the Desire with Cavendish, and likewise wrote a history of this second 
expedition. Of her consort he makes this suggestive sentence : " We left the 
Content astern of us, which was not as yet come out of the road (harbor), and 
thinking as the wind blew fair from the E. N. E. she would have overtaken us, 
we lost her company and never saw her afterward." Li view of Luconia, while 
passing through the Straits of Bernardino, the unhappy Spanish pilot having 
been detected with a written letter, was suspected as a spy, and by order of 
Cavendish hung at the yard-arm. Li the ship Santa Ana was the Greek pilot 
Juan de Fuca, or Apostolos Valerianos of Cephalonia, not mentioned, however, 
in the voyage of Cavendish, and whose identity has always been denied in 
Spanish histories, who says he lost 60,000 Spanish ducats of his own goods in 
the Santa Ana, and of whom we shall now give some account. 

THE DISCOVERIES OF JUAN DE FUCA THEY ARE DENIED AS APOCRYPHAL FOR OVER 

200 YEARS THE STRAITS OF ANNIAN DE FUCA's IDENTITY PROVEN IN 1854. 

In the old cosmographical work of Richard Hakluyt, of a. d. 1600, there 
is preserved some account of the navigator, who is said to have first made known 
the straits separating the Puget Sound country from the island of Vancouver. 
De Fuca says he was robbed of his goods by Cavendish, when the latter cap- 
tured the Santa Ana near the Cape of California in 1587. He afterward made 



22 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

his way m the rebuilt bark to Acapulco, and states that a short time afterward 
he was ordered as pilot to join a fleet of three ships and 100 men, sent by the 
Viceroy of Mexico to discover and fortify the Straits of Annian in the northern 
parts of the South Seas, and prevent the English coming from the Atlantic 
into the Pacific to plunder the countries of Nueva Espana. They proceeded 
accordingly to the Cape of California, but from a mutiny among the soldiers 
of the vessels, occasioned by the misconduct of the commander of the fleet, the 
results were fruitless, the expedition returned from California to Mexico, and 
the captain was disgraced. In the year 1592 De Fuca was himself sent from' 
Acapulco by the viceroy as commander of two small vessels carrying only 
mariners, to follow on and improve his former voyage when acting as pilot. 
He sailed along the coast of Nueva Espana and California until he came to the 
latitudes between 47 and 48 degrees, when he there entered into a great strait, 
sailing therein for more than twenty days, the land trending sometimes noi-th- 
west, then northeast, and also east and southeastward, and that he passed by 
divers islands in that strait, and that it was narrower at the entrance than it was 
farther inside ; and that at the entrance of the said strait there is an exceeding 
nigh pinnacle on a great headland, or island, like a spired rock or a pillar there- 
on; and that he sailed through that strait finding it wide and deep enough 
everywhere, and that he saw people there who dressed in skins, and there was 
in those countries gold, silver, pearls, and other rich things, and that the said 
strait was about 30 to 40 leagues wide at its entrance. Not being sufliciently 
armed to oppose the natives, he then returned to Acapulco by the way of the 
Cape of California in the same year (1592), and made report to the viceroy, who 
sent him to Spain after many delays, to get reward of his majesty the king, who 
gave hiui no more for his discoveries than did the viceroy. 

Tn the year 1791, by order of the King of Spain, the two vessels Sutil and 
Mejicana, under Galiano and Vaklez, were dispatched from Mexico to continue 
the explorations of Perez, Martinez, Bodega, and other Spanish officers, made 
between 1774 and 1790, and to verify rumors received in Mexico that the long- 
doubted Straits of Juan de Fuca had at last been found by some foreign vessels 
trading for furs on the coasts to the north of California. On the return of the 
two vessels, these officers confirmed the report that such straits had at last been 
found, but that the latitudes stated by De Fuca were too high : it was forgotten 
though, in 1791, that all the observations of the Spaniards on the California 
coasts were with defective instruments, which from 1600 to 1750 made their 
geographical positions from 60 to 100 miles too far north. The accounts of 
this voyage were sent to Spain, and, by orders of the king, were put into the 
hands of the celebrated historian Martin Fernandez de Navarette. This emi- 
nent scholar, after, as he says, diligent search into the archives of Spain and 
Mexico by various officers, states that no mention was ever made in any paper 
giving the name, or alluding to the services, of the said Juan de Fuca, and tit- 
icrly discrediting the belief that such a i^srson ever lived. Strange to say, how- 
ever, the exceedingly high peak or pinnacle near the entrance of these straits, 
mentioned by the Greek pilot, was really found by one of the foreign vessels, 
after 1786, and to this day it goes by the name of the "Pillar of Juan de 
Fuca," and may be seen represented in Wilkes's "Voyage of 1841," In the 
year 1854 the question of the existence of such a person as Juan de Fuca was 
forever set at rest. The author of this compendium of Lower California his- 
tory asked of Mr. York, the American consul at Zante, in the Ionian Islands, 
if there existed in Ccphalonia any person who bore the name of the old Greek 
pilot. The answer to this was, that the memory of such a person was well 
acknowledged in. that island, and that he left descendants and descendants of 
relatives known there who still went by the name of De Fuca or Foea. A full 
account of this matter may be found in the September and October (1859) 
numbers of " Hutchings's California Magazine," and the most of the nonsenso 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 23 

written by Navarette and other Spmiisli -wiiters, witli the tin-gicl sentences of 
Humboldt, blown to the winds : Juan de Foca's genealogy and that of his living 
descendants are as well known there in 1866 as those of the oldest families of 
the Ionian Islands. De Fuca was VO years old when he died, about 1602, and 
had served on board the King of Spain's ships in the Spanish Americas forty 
long years. 

THE FIRST AND SECOND VOYAGES OF SEBASTIAN VISCAINO. 

After the year 1580, the Dutch and English fillibuster expeditions, o-row- 
ing out of the wars of the Reformation in England and Holland, beo-an to fre- 
quent the coasts of Peru and Mexico, and also those of the Philippine Islands 
and committed great havoc on the Spanish settlements, and captured numbers 
of the king's ships, which greatly excited the attention of the Government and 
people of Spain, who were lusciously inclined to lay down and effeminatelv 
wallow in such luxuriant pastures they had stumbled on, and which were fast 
sapping the Spanish vigor. The great rendezvous in the North Pacific up to 
the year 1720 was the Cape of California and the bay of Pichilingue, which 
last is au arm of the bay of La Paz. Here they traded with the Indians for 
pearls, smuggled on the west coasts of Mexico, and laid in wait for the annual 
galleons between Manilla and Acapulco, of which they made several captures, 
amounting in value to millions of dollars. 

Stimulated by these daring robberies and inroads on the Spanish domains, 
which were fast bringing the nation to disgrace, the ministers of King Philip 
II. were directed by his majesty to order the Viceroy of Mexico to explore 
the coasts of California, and to found settlements near the cape, and, if possible, 
one on the northern coasts below Cape Mendocino. The principles involved 
were : to aid, recruit, and refit the Manilla galleons, which now came down the 
coast annually ; to occupy the country as part of his majesty's domain of New 
Spain ; to spread the knowledge of the Christian religion among the Indian 
tribes, and, if possible, find out if some rich countries did not exist above 40°, 
which by mistake had not been reached, and also " to endeavor the discovery 
of the Straits of Annian," which were rumored to pass through tlie land in the 
north of California from the South Seas to the Atlantic at the cod-fisheries of 
Newfoundland. 

_ The Viceroy Gaspar de Zuniga, Count de Monterey, selected, to command 
this new expedition and carry out the king's orders, Sebastian Viscaino, who 
had acquired a high character in various services of his majesty in Mexico and 
the South Seas. In 1596 he was dispatched from Acapulco with three vessels, 
having on board four Franciscan friars, to make a settlement in the country of 
California found by Fernando Cortez, where he arrived after touching at the 
isles of Mazatlan. At the isles of Mazatlan 50 of his men deserted,"and Vis- 
caino stretched across the mouth of the gulf and landed first at the bay of San 
Sebastian, and, not finding this suitable, went farther up to the bay of Santa 
Cruz, where Cortez had made his colony in 1537, and at which he found many 
remains. This bay of Santa Cruz, or Puerto de Cortez, is said to be the same 
now known as the bay of La Paz, the name given to it by Viscaino from the 
peaceable character of the Indians, who here received him Avith good-will. 
They found in the seas near by fish of all kinds in the greatest abundance, and 
pearl oysters very plentiful. One of his vessels was dispatched up the gulf 
some 100 leagues to make further explorations, on returning from which a body 
of 50 of the men were attacked by a large number of Indians, who killed 19 
of the men and wounded all the rest ; the enemy, robbing the dead soldiers, 
decked themselves in their clothes and arms, and danced defiance to the invad- 
ers in sight of the ship. On arriving at La Paz, where he had stopped two 
months, Viscaino, finding his provisions running low, his houses being burnt, 
and his shipping getting out of repair, concluded to discontinue the enterprise, 



24: SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

as too risky for his means and material, and, embarkinjc>; liis forces, arrived at 
Acapulco in October, 1596. During their stay in California, the four priests 
made diHgent eflbrts to instruct the Indians in religion, and, with the humanity 
and prudence of Viscaino, succeeded in making them friends to the new 
visitors. 

Philip II. having died in 1598, his successor, Philip IIL, in 1599, and 
12 months after the death of his fether, directed the Count de Monterey, 
still acting as viceroy, to dispatch Viscaino on a second expedition, but 
this time to explore the ocean or extra coasts of California, as it was said that 
a ship had lately passed from Newfoundland through the Straits of Annian to 
the South Seas, and his majesty determined to occupy the countries thereaway 
by Spaniards. fSorae 30 months afterward, every thing being I'eady, on the 5th 
of May, 1602, Viscaino sailed from Acapulco with a fleet of four vessels for 
this expedition : to wit, the San Diego, termed also the Capitana, or Viscaino's 
flag -ship; the Santo Tomas, called also the Almirante, under Toribio Gomez de 
Corvan, second in command; the third was a smaller one, called the Three 
Kings, under Estevan Lopez, with whom was Ensign Martin de Aguilar, and a 
barco longo, or long boat, for entering bays and rivers to take soundings and 
surveys, which was left behind afterward at San Bernabe Bay. On board these 
vessels the viceroy sent three Franciscan friars of the Carmelites, Fathers Andres 
de la Asuncion, Thomas de Aquino, and Antonio de la Ascencion ; Ascencion 
kept a journal, and aftervv'ard wrote a history of the voyage. There were also 
several other noted officers, military and naval, who were ordered to join the 
expedition, among whom is mentioned Geronimo Martin, a great cosmographer 
and drauo-htsman, who survived and was much employed afterward on the pub- 
lic works in the City of Mexico; Alonzo Pesquero, who is stated to have 
served with Macjellan, which must be accepted as a good-for-nothing assertion, 
as Magellan's voyage of 1519 was then 83 years past, which would make Pes- 
quero cither a child in 1519, or over 100 years old in 1602 ; Antonio Flores and 
Francisco Bolanos, celebrated pilots, Bolanos having been in the San Augustin 
galleon with Sebastian Cermenon when wrecked near San Francisco Bay in 
1595; an ensign, Martin de Aguilar, whose name became famous for 250 years 
as giving title to a great river beyond Cape Mendocino, leading to the Atlantic, 
and who appears to have had command of the frigate Los Reyes, with the 
pilots Florez and Lopez. 

The expedition sailed in May, and arrived near the Mazatlan Islands early 
in June, from whence they departed for California, and on the 14th June an- 
chored in the place where Cavendish had burnt the Santa Ana, and to which 
Viscaino gave the name of San Bernabe, referred to before in our account, and 
so called to this day in many modern charts, and which is the same as the Puerto 
Seguro of Cavendish. 

At this place fish of all kinds were found in such abundance that boats 
could be loaded with very little labor, and pearl oysters strewed the shores in 
such unaccountable quantities as to make the beach appear like an immense 
pavement of brilliant mosaics; game, wood, and water were also in abundance, 
and the Indian population was civil and numerous. 

After four attempts to sail out of San Bernabe and frustrated by the 
northwest winds and fogs, the fleet finally got out on the 5th July, and passed 
the highlands northwest of the cape, known as the Sierra Enfadosa, and on the 
20th Viscaino brought his vessel to anchor in the great bay of La Magdalena, 
discovered by Cabrillo, and some ocean points of which were mentioned by 
Ulloa. The bay was found to be very spacious, and populated with numerous 
rancherias of docile Indians, and abounded in immense shoals of fish, whales, 
pearl oysters, seals of all kinds, muscles, and other marine animals. On the 28th 
July tliey left the bay, above which the land gradually fell down into a pleasant 
and level country, the mountains retiring far inland, and on the 30th passed near 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 25 

to the mouth of a river with dano;erous breakers. This fact has been often 
doubted, but receut exploratious of that vicinity, up to 1864, show that 
there are three streams above Mao-daleua, which in the pointer season are full to 
the sea. A short distance above this, they found a lari^e bay, named by them 
from the immense numbers of whales seeu, Baja de Ballenas, in the position of 
which no two maps or charts agree : it was inhabited by myriads of sea-birds, 
and all kinds of shell and scale tish were found in the greatest abundance ; pearl 
oysters were also found here, which seems to be their northern limits. Some 
eight leagues above this, they carae to an island they called San Roque, on the 
31st July, and to another one on the 5th August, called Asuncion, which seems 
to be the same as those situated a few leagues below the present Bartolome or 
Turtle Bay. The same abundance of fish and marine animals was met with 
here, and on shore they found a large salina. Passing by a very high mountain 
above, of bare and naked rocks of varied and beautiful formations, which they 
named the Sierra Pintada, or painted mountain, where great mines of gold and 
silver were supposed to be : this mountain they were a week in passing, which 
on weathering, they passed the island of Natividad of Cabrillo, and came to 
anchor, on the 19th of August under the Isle of Cedros. Near San Bartolome, 
they met with immense quantities of bitumen of an amber color, wliicb was 
likely, from the beds of asphaltum said to abound in that vicinity, and which 
they say had a very bad smell : this fact was also mentioned by Cabrillo. The 
weather was so bad at these places, then the last days of August, that he leffand 
returned to Isle Cedros several times, from the prevalence of the northwest 
winds, and they were constantly being separated from the other ships. Cedros 
Island was found covered with trees of pine and cedar, and inhabited bv numbers 
of bold Indians: to the north and east an immense bay formed, which is now 
named, and generally acknowledged in geography, as the bay of Sebastian Vis- 
caino, and not that just north of Magdalena Bay, as located by De Mofras and 
others. On the 9th September they left the island, steering northwest toward 
the mainland, and met with the Isle Cenizas ; shortly afterward, on the mainland, 
a bay called by them San Ilypolito, surrounded by a very beautiful coimtry, 
near which is situated at present the ex-Missions of La Rosaria and Santo Do- 
mingo, the bay appearing to be the same sometimes called San Francisco, and 
now known as Las Virgenes ; four leagues from which was the bay of Santos 
Cosmo and Damian, near the shore of which was a large fresh-water lake and 
with a fine level country in the neighborhood, which appears to answer to the 
present bay of San Quintin. In this vicinity they passed by the Mesas, or table- 
lands, of San Cyprian, which appear to be the same as the curious five Hum- 
mocks of Vancouver (l 792), forming five distinctly separated hills risino- from 
level lands, not far from which is the Cape Engano of Cabrillo and Viscaino, sup- 
posed to be the same as Cape Colnett of the present maps. The greatest con- 
fusion obtains in this part ofViscaino's account, and his chart, published by Na- 
varette in 1802, gives scarcely any assistance in identifying his numerous anchor- 
ages ; this may be owing to the bad weather he had continually experienced. 
Passing the islands San Geronimo, Cenizas, Pajaros, and San Hilario, they came 
to the bay of San Simon and San Jude, placed now in the vicinity of the ex- 
Mission of San Vicente, where the Indians were very troublesome, and this 
character they bore as late as 1816, when they rose in rebellion. On the first 
of November, Viscaino left this bay, and proceeding a few leagues above, carae 
to another large bay, surrounded by lofty mountains, which they named the bay 
ofTodos Santos, a name which it retains to this day. Shortly afterward, on the 
5th, they discovered the Coronadas Rocks, called Islas Desiertas by Cabrillo, and 
a short distance north, on the lOth of December, they entered a famous port, 
called, by Viscaino, San Diego, which is the San Miguel of Cabrillo as now ac- 
cepted in history. 

Thus ended the third great exploration of the ocean coasts of Lower Califor- 



26 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

Ilia, Viscaino verifying tlie former accounts of Ulloa and Cabrlllo and niatino; 
a chart of tlic coast, whicli, though full of errors and interpolations by others, re- 
mains substantially the same, witli all its grievous faults and omissions which have 
caused the loss of several ships, as is used by mariners in 1867. 

Taking his departure from San Diego, the expedition was employed from 
the 20tli November, 1602, to tlie 20th January, 1603, in exploring the coasts as 
far up as 43°, or the vicinity of the present River Umpqua. His second in 
command, Gomez de Corvan, was dispatched from Monterey port, in the Santo 
Tomas or Almirante, on the 20th December, 1602, with the Padre Tomas de 
Aquino and a large number of Viscaiuo's men, who had been reduced by the 
scurvy and unwholesome provisions ; they had lost some 30 men at San Diego 
and Monterey, and on the passage up the coast above Isle Cedros. The num- 
ber of men who formed the seamen and military of the three ships is not stated 
in any accounts which have come down to us, but, according to the Spanish 
equipments of the times, and the extra care taken by the viceroy in fitting it 
out, it is very likely they numbered not less than 300 persons. 

Viscaino missing his consort near Cape Mendocino, and experiencing con- 
tinual foul weather, with his men reduced by sickness and privations, headed 
his ship, the San Diego, for the south, on his return to Mexico. The tender, or 
Three Kino-s (Tres Reyes), on board of which were Antonio Flores, belonging to 
Avilas, and Est6van Lopez, the two pilots, and Martin de Aguilar, the military 
officer, belonging to Malaga, on separating from the other vessel, was blown 
farther north, as mentioned before, and after discovering the river and cape, still 
marked on many maps and charts with Aguilar's name, and finding they had 
got above the point mentioned in the viceroy's instructions, and experiencing 
the same disasters as Viscaino's vessel, headed south, on the 20th January, to 
look for the San Diego, and get home again. After continual hardships and suf- 
ferings, the two vessels did not meet again till arriving at Acapulco in April, 
1603, where the Santo Tomas, under De Corvan, had anchored only a few days 
before, with no more than himself and two other men fit to do duty ; the Tres 
Reyes had been brought in by Estevan Lopez, one of her two pilots, as De Agui- 
lar and Flores both died before her return to Acapulco. The authorities for the 
voyage say 48 men died fi'om scurvy and other infirmities: how man}' men in 
all were aboard the vessels is not stated. 

On the viceroy's receiving notice of the arrival of Viscaiuo's vessels, orders 
were sent to take every care of the officers and men. On their recovery, they 
proceeded to the city of Mexico, where, on the 29th April, 1603, they were re- 
ceived with every respect by the Count de Monterey, at the palace of Chapulte- 
peque, and all were rewarded and promoted, says old Torquemada, " to their entire 
satisfaction and according to their respective pretensions." Viscaino, who seems 
to have been a man eminent for enterprise and of the highest character, shortly 
afterward made application for another fleet to continue his surveys above his 
northern discoveries ; but the viceroy, not having sufficient power to gratify Ins 
wishes, sent him, with many recommendations, to Spain, where he arrived, and 
was received with great favor by the king, Avho ordered his plans to be laid be- 
fore the High Council of State. These awful hidalgos, thinking the risks too 
great, from the disasters experienced by Viscaino, on his two expeditions of 1596 
and 1602, were not in a hurry to " rush things ;" the old sailor, in great discour- 
ao;ement, returned to Mexico, which seems to have been his home, and in which 
cfty, it is stated, he died in the latter part of 1606. For after the authorities had 
digested his propositions for three years, it was concluded, by the king in coun- 
cil, to accept them, and an order, dated the 19th August, 1606, was sent to the 
viceroy to find him out again, and give him another fleet for a new expedition 
to California. This kindness being frustrated by Viscaino's death, the whole 
aftair fell to the ground, and nothing material was cftected on the northern coasts 
till after 1774, or 164 years after Viscaino left this world, when the Spanish 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 27 

monarcby found that it -would have vastly aggrandized itself if it had followed 
the counsels of the old sailor. By some of the Spanish writers, Viscaino is 
said to have been a native of Biscay, whose people are well known for their 
industry, enterprise, and maritime spirit, and commonly called Basques. 

It is to be observed that there is the greatest confusion, contradiction, and 
ambiguity, with innumerable typographical errors, in all the printed accounts 
of Viscaino's expedition as contained in Torquemada, Venegas, Navarette, Hum- 
boldt, De Mofras, and numberless other writers, who treat of his services, and 
this assertion holds good Avith tenfold force on many of his geographical posi- 
tions; besides, instead of mentioning in the relation the name of each vessel, 
the utmost perplexities occur in the frequent use of the terms " Capitana," the 
"x\lmirante," the " Frigata," the "Tender," as employed on this or that 
service, all through the narrative. Not only ai"e his distances of sailing from 
day to day full of uncertainties and evident errors, but his latitudes are from 
60 to 80 miles too far north of, or many miles south of, the hydrographical 
observations made by European and American surveyors, between 1825-1866. 
This was, of course, to be expected from the imperfect nautical instruments of 
those days; nevertheless, writers are found j^resumptnous enough and lazy 
enough to pass off their crude windities on the world of letters up to this 1867, 
as if they had carefully studied the results of his surveys. This is particularly 
the case as regards the Pacific coasts of the peninsula, where the bay of Vis- 
caino is set down in different charts over 100 iniles out of the way of its gen- 
erally accepted position as eastward of, and contiguous to, Cedros Island. Thus 
San Diego, which is established noio at 32° 41', is placed by Viscaino in 32° ; 
and Monterey, which is now in 36° 36', is set down by him in 37°. The 
manuscript accounts and charts of Viscaino remain to this day in the archives 
of Spain and Mexico, and, singular to say, the Spanish Government has never 
allowed them to be printed in full, at least in no book known of in the 
State of California in 1867. As Mexico has but a trifle of maritime commerce, 
and the State of California an immense one, rapidly running into the hundreds 
of millions, humanity, science, and traffic urgently call for some basis by which 
Mexico and the United States could unite to prosecute a thorough hydrograph- 
ical survey of the coasts of the gulf and the peninsula of California. 



CHAPTER V. 

LOWER CALIFOKNIA ADVENTURES FROM 1603 TO 1700— ARDENT PURSUIT OP 

PEARLS. 

In the year 1616 Don Juan Iturbi, with two vessels, fitted at his own ex- 
pense, left Acapulco with the viceroy's license, to make further explorations in 
CaUfornia, and to fish for pearls. One of his vessels was taken by a Dutch 
fiUibuster, whose rendezvous was at the Pichelingues in La Paz Bay ; with the 
other he ascended as high as the River Tizones or the present Colorado. Meet- 
ing with many disasters, he was obliged to put into the harbor of Ahome, at 
the mouth of Rio Fuerte, where he was relieved by the Jesuit Father Perez de 
Ribas, the author of the curious old chronicle called "Triumphs of the Faith." 
After arriving at Acapulco he went to Mexico, and, showing the beautiful pearls 
he had procured in the gulf, filled the city with a whirl of excitement. One of 
these pearls was valued at 900 Spanish crowns, and many of the finest were 
sent to Spain, from whence their fame spread throughout all Europe. About 
this time many voyages were made in small vessels from the ports in Sinaloa 
and Jalisco to dive for pearls or get them from the Indians ; and one Antonio* 
del Castillo, of Chiametla, accumulated an immense fortune in a few years. 

In March, 1632, Captain Francis Ortega, through some high representa- 
tions made at Madrid by Don Antonio Bastan, obtained a license from the' 
45 



2S SKETCH OF T5E SETTLEMENT AND 

viceroy for pearl-diving and colonizing in California. On board his vessel 
of 70 tons went the priest Diego de la Nava, appointed by the Bishop of 
Guadalajara as Vicar of California. He returned in June succeeding, with 
a large quantity of valuable pearls, obtained between La Paz and San Bernabe 
Bays, which so greatly pleased the viceroy that he was allowed to make other 
voyages in 1633 and 1634, in both of which he was successful in pearl-trading. 
Underhandedly his pilot, Estevan Carbonelli, obtained a license from the Gov- 
ernment to prosecute a voyage on the same intent in 1636, but returning 
unsuccessful, became an object of ridicule and disgrace. 

In Ortega's last expedition went Padre Nava and another priest, named 
Juan de Zuniga, which, it seems, was at the suggestion of Ortega, a man of 
character and. prudence, Avho was desirous to Christianize the Indians, and to 
make a colony at the bay of La Paz, with soldiers from the posts in Sinaloa. 

The Duke of Escalona, the viceroy, in 1642, ordered De Canas, governor 
of Sinaloa, to explore the coasts of California with a view to founding a colony. 
In this voyage went Jacinto Cortez, a Jesuit missionary of Sinaloa, Avho has 
left an account that the expedition went to La Paz, and found the Indians ex- 
tremely docile, and obtained numbers of fine pearls, which were sent to the 
viceroy. 

On the viceroy's return to Spain, he induced Philip IV. to order a new 
expedition of conquest and colonization under Admiral Portel de Casanate. 
In 1643 Count Salvatierra, the successor of Escalona, efficiently aided the 
admiral in his plans, and three or four vessels were got ready at Acapulco and 
the neighboring ports to carry out the king's orders. In this fleet v/ent again 
Father Cortez and another Jesuit, named Andres Baes, as missionaries to in- 
struct the Indians and as chaplains of the expedition, the viceroy having especially 
requested the superior of the Mexican Jesuits to do so. On arriving at the 
ports of Sinaloa he was instructed to convoy the Manilla galleon to Acapulco 
from the Pichilingue rovers in the gulf, which he effected in safety. On com- 
pletion of this and on his returning, two of his ships were burnt on the coast 
of Mexico; but not discouraged, he soon equipped two others, and in 1648, 
accompanied by the two Jesuits, landed in California. While exploring the 
coasts for the site of a colony, orders were sent him again to convoy the Ma- 
nilla galleon from the Dutch rovers who now had become exceedingly bold, and 
greatly harassed the Spanish colonies on the Pacific. On reaching Acapulco, 
the further prosecution of this enterprise was suspended, and the admiral was 
promoted to be captain-general of the province of Chili. 

The king, in 1665, having ordered a further prosecution of the colonization 
of California, the viceroy appointed Captain Bernal de Pinadero to undertake 
it, provided it could be effected -without outlays from the public purse, and 
agreements were formally drawn up to this effect. Two small vessels were 
built at the mouth of the Rio Vanderas, now in Jalisco, and on arriving in 
California, went to work with a voracious greed in pearl-diving, in which they 
treated the Indians with great barbarity. Large quantities of the finest pearls 
were procured, which in the division made such sanguinary quarrels among 
the crews of the vessels as to occasion several murders, the confusion arising 
from which induced Pinadero to return to Mexico. The Government, disap- 
proving of his labors, ordered him, at his own expense, to make another 
attempt from Sinaloa, in 1667, in which his abilities as a colonizer resulted as 
in his first failures, Pinadero having made formal contracts with the Govern- 
ment. 

In 1668, some 12 months after Pinadero's second failure, Francisco Luci 
nella obtained a patent for a new expedition, to be undertaken without outlay 
to the royal treasury, and, accompanied by Juan Caranco and Juan Ramirez, 
two Franciscan missionaries, arrived in due time at the bay of La Paz. This 
expedition, after a short stay, from all accounts, resulted in nothing, and 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 29 

Luciaella returned to Sioaloa, where, it appears, he had fitted out. Lucinella 
made a tWrd proposition in 1686 (or 18 years afterward), to complete another 
expedition, but was refused license. 

With all these reverses and difficulties, neither the adventurers nor the 
authorities in Mexico or Spain seemed willing to let the colonization of the 
peninsula drop ; small vessels from the coasts of Mexico annually visiting the 
gulf coasts with and without license for the traffic and fishery in pearls. 

Charles IT. having ascended the throne about this time, and great concern 
being felt at the injury resulting to the fame and the policy of Spain by the 
extension of other European colonies in North America, and the w^asting incur- 
sions of the filibusters on both coasts of America, the Council of the Indies 
in the mother country, by order of the king, in 1667, ordered the Viceroy Arch- 
bishop Enriquez de Rivera to off'er the enterprir,e of colonizing the peninsula 
again to private parties, and if such were not found Avilling to undertake it, that 
it should be done at the expense of the treasury. As it appears from the chron- 
icles of the times that speculators were wary of hasty action, the Admiral Isidro 
Otondo y Antillon, governor of Sinaloa, and a distinguished officer, was empow- 
ered by a warrant from Madrid, of 29th December, 1679, to undertake the 
enterprise, and given the title of Admiral of the California Conquests. The 
religious concerns of the colony were to be placed under the Jesuits, and Euse- 
bio Francisco, a native of the city of Trent, in German Italy, and a former 
professor in the Bavarian University of Ingoldstadt, well known as an able 
geographer, and then for several years serving as a missionary in the Jesuit 
establishments of Sinaloa and Pimaria, or North Sonora, was nominated as 
chaplain of the expedition and colony. From this time we commence to date 
a true knowledge of the interior countries of California and Sonora, the coast 
lines being pretty well known from numei'ous prior examinations from 1535 to 
1667. 

But things moved slow in those grand old days of rich galleons, silver adobes, 
bags of pearls, and piles of gold doubloons, pieces of eight, and pistareens; the 
government of the hidalgos was as slothful and timid as it was high-toned and 
dignified, a line of action very acceptable to the enterprising traffickers of Eng- 
land and Holland, Portugal about this time collapsing into a state of effeminate 
apathy. It was accordingly not until 1683, six years after the order had been 
issued, that Admiral Antillon was enabled to complete his plans and put them 
in execution, the royal strong box at Mexico bearing the charges and outlays : 
this great depository seems to have been continually suffering from a distressing 
vacuity since the year 1600. 

On the 18th May, 1683, the admiral, with two vessels and 100 men, left 
the port of Chacala, a few leagues below the present San Bias, and being well 
provided with stores and material for the proper efFectment of the object indi- 
cated in the royal warrants. With Otondo went Father Kino as superior of 
the religious mission, having with him the Fathers Juan Copart and Pedro 
Goni, and meeting with good weather, the vessels landed at the bay of La Paz 
on the 2d of June. After some unimportant troubles with the Indians had 
been quieted by the address of the Jesuits and the prudence of the admiral, 
this officer with Kino and a force of 25 armed men made an exploration of the 
mountains to the west, and another party under Father Goni to the south and 
east, both of which effected but little ; Kino's party had penetrated into the 
territories of the Guaycuros, and Goni's into that of the Coras. On the 6th 
of June the Guaycuros or Wicuros attacked the camp, and from the scanda- 
lous cowardice of the admiral's men the colony was in danger of coming to a 
speedy end, had it not been for the boldness of Otondo and the management 
of the Jesuits, the old professor of geography remarking that the admiral now 
well understood that his California colonists did not include " many of those 
brave men who had subjugated America." 



30 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

The Spaniards liaving conquered a peace by the cunning and boldness of 
the chief leaders, his expected supplies from the Eiver Yaqui not reaching him, 
the provisions giving out, and discouraged by the inefficiency and poltroonery of 
his men, who were in terror from attacks of the Indians, the admiral was. forced 
to emTiark from La Paz on the 1 4th eTuly, and arrived, after an absence of tliree 
months, at the mouth of the Yaqui, experiencing much detention in seeking for 
the vessel which contained his expected assistance. 

Not discouraged at his first discomfiture, the brave old admiral sold a portion 
of his eftects, and even pledged the family plate and furniture in the purchase of 
stores, and sailed again for California, and on the Gth October came to anchor 
in a large bay which he called San Bruno, which, he says, is in 26° 30', and 
seems to be the same as the bay of Loretto. Father Kino and the other two 
Jesuits were still with him, and immediately commenced the study of the In- 
dian language, in which Copart soon became the most skilful, and compiled a 
catechism and vocabulary, which was of great use in the subsequent settlement 
of the country, as the want of this knowledge had cost many lives and much 
money and time in former enterprises. In December, obtaining new supplies of 
money and provisions, by order of the viceroy, he took possession of the country in 
the king's name, and immediately fitted out an expedition in person, accompanied 
by the three Jesuit fathers, and travelled for several days north and west for 
the distance of fifty leagues, endeavoring to reach the Pacific coast. In this 
they were nearly successful, having reached a large plain on the top of the 
mountains, where were many Indians encamped, who told them that within a 
short distance was a small river which run into the Avestern sea ; but from fatigue 
and bad travelling the party were obliged to turn back to San Bruno. 

Nearly twelve months had now passed; the fathers had made good progress 
in the language and baptized quite a number of the Indians; the soldiers and 
colonists began to grumble, and the old admiral began to think he had " struck 
a bad lead," and got into an inferior district of the country where very few 
good pearls were found or benefits to gain, and determined, after holding a 
council of his subalterns, to return to Sinaloa again, where he soon after arrived 
and advised the viceroy of the result of his proceedings. Having soon furnished 
his ships with supplies, he left Sinaloa again to see if he could not recover some 
of his losses, went on a search for pearl-oyster beds, and reached the har- 
bor San Ignacio, some distance above San Bruno Bay. At San Ignacio 
he received advices from the viceroy to discontinue all his other objects 
except retaining the establishment commenced at San Bruno, to which he 
soon returned, and, finding his provisions growing short, was obliged finally to 
drop the whole enterprise in great mortification, and sail for the continent, 
where he arrived at the port of Matanchel, which lies between San Bias and 
Chacala. Advising the Government of his return, he was ordered to convoy 
the Manilla galleon, then daily expected for Acapulco, and which fortunately a 
few days afterward he met with and delivered out of the traps of some Dutch 
filibusters who were waiting for her near the port of Natividad. On his re- 
porting to the Royal Audiencia, it was concluded that, as the admiral's enter- 
prise had lasted three years, and cost the royal revenues 225,000 crowns of 
money, California was not to be settled by such means, and its reduction 
to civilization and the Spanish crown should be offered to the Society of Jesus, 
Avith the assistance of an annual appropriation from the king's treasury, which 
offer the superior of the Mexican Jesuits respectfully but firmly then declined. 

The same political and religious motives operating in Spain and Mexico for 
the acquisition of the long-sought possession of California, many plans were pro- 
posed Avithout effect, until the king sent orders to expedite a ncAv enterprise. 
After a careful estimate by Otondo and his friend Kino in 1686, with the coun- 
tenance of the treasurer of the Royal Audiencia, it Avas found that not less than 
an annual subsidy of 30,000 crowns was necessary, on the most frugal bases, 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 31 

to effect the desires of the king and the nation. This estimate being approved by 
his majesty's officers, orders Avere sent to Mexico to advance the money to the 
admiral to make a third attempt at colonization. But, as the old chronicler 
hath it, " in the very week that the admiral was to receive his moneys, letters 
came from Spain to send the king 500,000 crowns of money," and California 
went down to zero again. In 1694 Captain Francis Itamarra obtained a license 
from the Government to make a voyage at his own expense, which was granted ; 
but Itamarra arriving at San Bruno Bay, and finding buj; few pearls, and the 
Indians telling him they were more desirous to receive the missionaries prom- 
ised by Otondo, the party returned to Mexico, and nothing was again 
done for California till the entrance in 1697 of Salvatierra for its systematic re- 
duction under the Jesuit missionaries. After Otondo's affair, nothing else was 
done publicly at the propulsion either by the king or by the viceroy, the royal 
treasury having suffered to the tune of several millions of dollars in the gainless 
exjjeditions, from Viscaino's in 1602 to Otondo's in 1685. 



CHAPTER VL 

THE EXPLORATIONS AND ACCOUNTS OF THE COAST LINES FROM 1700 TO 1770 

VOYA&ES OF THE JESUITS. 

Deferring the account of the colonizing and settlement of the mission dis- 
tricts after 1685, we shall follow in their sequence the remaining relations of the 
Jesuits and others of the explorations of the coast-lines of the gulf and of the 
ocean. 

The Padre Juan Ugarte, having built a small vessel at Loretto, of native 
timber, brought with incredible labor from the mountains, and which he named 
the Triumph of the Cross, by directions of his superiors in Mexico, prepared to 
take a survey of the northern gulf coasts. This vessel appears to have been a 
schooner of about 100 tons, and had a large boat to take soundings and enter 
shallow places, and was the first shipping craft built in the Californias. On 
board went as pilot one William Stratfort, who seems to have been the first of 
English name connected Avitli the Spanish settlement of California. He is de- 
scribed as a seaman of learning and experience, and Venegas states that he made 
many charts of the coast while on this voyage, which could not afterward 
be found, neither could the journals of Ugarte when they were searched for in 
Spain about 1735, to the great disappointment of the king. On the 15th May, 
1721, the vessel, containing six European sailors and 14 Indians, and the boat 
with eight others, left Loretto and arrived at Moleje (or Concepcion) Bay, and 
from thence stretched across the gulf to the coast of Pimaria, after touching 
at the Sal Si Puedes Islands. Here they examined day by day the upper coasts 
of Sonora, landing at favorable places to communicate with the missions in the 
interior to the eastward, until they arrived within sight of the Colorado. Land- 
ing in these vicinities, Ugarte in a clear afternoon obtained from an elevated 
position a distinct and undoubted view of the connection of the northern moun- 
tains and shores of California with the coasts of Pimaria, or what is now called 
the Gadsden Purchase of the present Territory of Arizona, and between 1800 and 
1853 known as North Sonora, or Alta Pimaria, from the Pima Indians. After 
much suffering from sickness, bad provisions, scurvy, and the tempestuous 
state of the weather, with the vessel and long-boat much damaged, and in con- 
tinual peril from the fearful currents and rapids between the islands of Sal Si 
Puedes, Tiburon, and Angel Guardian, and at one time in great danger from a 
terrific waterspout, the expedition returned to Loretto on the 15th September, 
after an absence of 123 days. On the California coasts, above the bay of 
Moleje, they found many good landing-places, with sweet water ; while on the 
Sonora coast, above the mouth of the Caborca, only three or four springs were 



32 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

met with, and the shoves were very sandy or of volcanic rocks, good land or water 
in plenty being only found at a distance of many leagues in the interior. At any 
rate; they gained valuable knowledge of the gulf navigation, and the party, com- 
municating with friendly gentile Indians and the affiliating Jesuit missions in 
Upper Pimaria, received such necessary succors and assistance from them as 
not only enabled Ugarte's party to recover their health and spirits, but actually 
saved the lives of many of the expedition. 

Ugarte notices the terrific velocity of the bores of the Colorado, formed by the 
junction of the floods of the river with the incoming tides of the gulf, and vice versa, 
which shift about and change every six liours, rising to the height perpendicular of 
from three to seven fathoms, and overwhelming the land and every thing within 
its influence for hundreds of miles. This now well-known phenomenon had also 
been noticed by Ulloa in 1537, and by x\.larcon in 1540, and after Ugarte's 
time by Father Consag in 1746, as well as by Fathers Kino and Salvatierra 
between 1695 and 1706. 

Ugarte also notices the brick-colored and corrosive waters of certain parts 
of the gulf-head, which raise blisters and ulcers on the skin similar to the 
effects of scurvy, which is produced most likely by an excess of the iodides, 
bromides, and sulphurets of minerals, derived, doubtless, from the abundance 
of volcanic material so common in these portions of the gulf. This curious 
phenomenon was more carefully noted by Consag, in his voyage in 1746; it is 
also mentioned by recent American voyagers to the Colorado River from 
1850-1866, and deserves further investigation by men of science. It was also 
noticed that certain docile California Indians of the shores above the Sal Si 
Puedes manufactured a very handsome quality of earthen pots, a fact of con- 
siderable importance in their social economy, found in no other part of 
the peninsula, and further mentioned afterward by Father Consag. The ex- 
treme tenacity and viscidity of the anchoring-ground near the river's mouth was 
also observed, and gave them great trouble in lifting anchor. 

After his return to Loretto, Father Ugarte, with the pilot Stratfort, made 
another voyage in November along the California shores, as high up as beyond 
28°, or say the entrance of the Canal de Ballenas, meeting with three good har- 
bors and several fine watering-places. The sailing directions and charts of 
Stratfort and the journal of the two voyages by Ugarte were afterward sent to 
the viceroy, together with the account of Padre Clemente Guillen, across the 
peninsula from Loretto to Magdalena Bay in 17I9. In this last Guillen had 
entered that great bay from the land side, found three good harbors therein, and 
named the present Santa Margarita Island, Santa Rosa ; his short descriptions 
agree Avith those of Cabrillo and Viscaino, and the recent ones by Belcher in 
1837. As we noted before, none of these maps, pilot directions, or journals, 
could be found in the archives of Spain when Burriel edited the work of Vene- 
gas in 1754, so that the names and titles of his stopping-places have nearly all 
been lost, except the few saved by tradition. 

In the year 1730, Father Sigismund Taraval, a native of Lodi in the duchy 
of Milan, and son of a lieutenant-general in the Spanish armies, and a man of 
distinguished learning and merit, came to California as a missionary, and was 
sent on an expedition in the same year, from Loretto overland, to make ex- 
plorations on the Pacific coast. He appears to have got as far north as the great 
bay formed by Cedros and Natividad Islands, and usually accepted now as Vis- 
caino's Bay, as he mentions the vicinities as contiguous to the mission now known 
as San Ignacio, and that two islands, called by the Indians Afegua, or Bird 
Island, and Amalgua, or Fog Island, lay only a few leagues from the coast, 
with two smaller islands farther westward. These descriptions answer to Vis- 
caino's Bay, and the dimensions and character of the island of Cedros, etc., 
mentioned by Taraval, answer to these and to the bay, and no other, within the 
times and distance of his departures. The account in Venegas is very confused 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 33 

and ambiguous, and it is stated tliat they saw other large islands, which were 
thought to be Santa Catalina and San Cleinente, mentioned in Viscaino's voyage 
above San Diego, as they travelled considerably farther north, and state that 
these last islands could be reached in three days' continuous sailing. Taraval 
called the great bay San Xavier, and the islands, in a mass, the Islands of Do- 
lores. Prodigious flights of birds inhabited these islands, particularly the 
smaller one, with crowds of seals and other marine animals. Among thebirds 
were some a little bigger than sparrows, which are of jet black, living all day at 
sea and returning at night to their nests, made in burrows in the ground, like 
those of rabbits, and four feet deep. Another bird was of the size of a goose, 
with black wings and white breast, and a hawk-like beak, also living in bur- 
rows in the earth, four or five yards deep. The larger island abounds with a pecu- 
liar and small species of long-haired deer, and a curious species of rabbit of jet- 
black color, with fur softer than that of a beaver. It is to be observed here, 
that the maps in the English edition of Venegas, though much better engraved, 
are not as many, nor as well punctuated, as those of the original Madrid edition ; 
Taraval's coast positions not being notated in the English map at all. 

The next expedition of marine surveys undertaken by the Jesuits was that 
of 1746, by Father Fernando Gonsag, of the missions of Dolores del Norte and 
San Ignacio. This indefatigable priest was a native of Austria, and came to 
California from Mexico in 1732 ; he died while superior of the missions, in 1759, 
at the age of 56. Having left Loretto in four open boats, the party arrived in 
a short time at the anchorage of San Carlos, in latitude 28°, from whence they 
departed for the head of the gulf on the 9th June, 1746, to examine in detail 
the shores, ports, harbors, bays, islands, etc. As many of the positions and 
places mentioned by Cousag still retain their names on most of the charts and 
maps of the present time, but nevertheless are yet unfamiliar to seamen, and 
their localities little known even in the peninsula to this day with exactitude, 
and some not at all, we shall make merely cursory mention of them, for they 
are all yet to be hydrographically examined and located in all this dangerous 
navigation. The first place he reached was three leagues from San Carlos, 
called Santa Ana watering-place, which makes a harbor, the lofty capes of 
which are San Gabriel and Las Virgenes ; farther up was the bay of Trinidad, 
where there is a pearl-fishery, dangerous from reefs and islets ; at the extremity 
was a bay named San Bernarbe, with a low island near by abounding in sea- 
wolves. Farther on is the Cape of San Juan Baiitista, with a dangerous rocky 
coast ; the land is low, of hard clay soil and red appearance. A day's sail beyond 
is the bay of San Miguel ; the anchorage is tolerable and plenty of sweet water is 
near by. Close to this is the island Tortoguilla, sometimes called Cerro Blanco, the 
shore of which is troubled with dangerous currents, surfs, reefs, and rocks. Op- 
posite Cape San Gabriel commences the island of Sal Si Puedes, and a few 
leagues from the cape is the bay of San Rafael, into which empties a small stream, 
called Kadacaman ; in the shores are many caves and boiling springs, some of 
which springs are covered by the high tide ; the water of the bay is tinged in 
patches of red and blue colors. A large pond of good water was found in one 
part of the bay, and the Indians were docile and hospitable, but were enemies 
of the Yaquis of Sonora, begotten of fights and murders growing out of pearl- 
fishing. A day's sail above San Rafael brought them to San Antonio Bay, 
in sight of a dark mountain, having two small rivulets iu the vicinity, and a 
fine fertile country is seen. The next day a bay is reached, called Purgatory 
Bay, with several rivulets and much good country, and many hospitable Indians 
v/ere found, to whom the father preached the Gospel ; in the morning the boats 
were found aground, with only a fathom of water. A day's sail farther brings 
you to Cape Las Animas, a few miles to the north of which is the bay of Los 
Angeles, where a very troublesome and numerous tribe of Indians lived, and 
great enemies of the pearl-divers ; their young females went entirely naked. A 



34 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

day's sail above Los Atigcles is the bay of Our Lady of Remedios, containing 
a pearl-fishery, in front of which is the island of Angel de la Guarda, which is 
very rugged and mountainous. The channel between the island and the coast 
was found so full of whales, that it was called then, and is still known to this 
day as, the Canal de las Ballenas. 

In these waters the party found valuable pearl-oyster beds, those near the 
shore being the best. On the mainland near by is a considerable rivulet ; the 
anchorages in all these vicinities were found full of dangerous rocks above and 
below water. A short distance off is the watering-place of San Juan and San 
Pablo, near which is a red-colored hill. A day's sail above is a bay shaped like 
the letter G, full of rocks, called the bay of San Pedro and San Pablo, the 
watering-places of which are not very good. A short sail above this bay is an- 
other wQvy large and commodious one, capable of holding any number of ves- 
sels, called the bay of San Luis Gonzaga, in the vicinity of which was aftei'ward 
founded the mission of San Francisco Borja ; in this bay were found great num- 
bers of a variety of shells resembling the white pearl-oyster ; also several rivulets 
of brackish water enter the bay, filled with fish ; and the Lidians were very 
numerous. The party dug wells on the shore, but the Avater was found bad, 
but at the upper end of the bay is a good watering-place, called San Estanislao. 
Li San Luis Gonzaga Bay were found pearl-oysters and palm-trees; it was in 
this vicinity the Lidians made the earthen jars mentioned by Ugarte 20 years 
before ; a dog was also found among them and mentioned as a special curiosity, 
and their women went entirely naked. A short distance above Gonzaga Bay 
opens another bay, called La Visitacion, Avhich seems to be of little account. 
Above Visitacion Bay is that of San Fermiu, Avhich is the limit of habitation 
of the pearl-oyster, and a day's sail above is the bay of San Felipe de Jesus, 
and in anothei- day's sail is that of San Buenaventura, after which are no more 
harbors, but all sand-flats and marshes. 

At San F<;lipe, which is due cast from the mission of Rosario on the Pacific, 
the water is very thick, of disagreeable odor and taste, and affects those who 
drink it with a sickness similar to scurvy ; the rivulet which affords it is on the 
north side, and the shores of the bay are mostly sandy, and the anchorages 
excellent at high tides, and in front of the bay is a high rocky islet or farallon. 
In these vicinities were seen great numbers of ivild sheep and loild goats, and in 
the early mornings and evenings the land on the Sonora coast could be dis- 
tinctly seen. About 40 miles above San Felipe some red-colored marshes are 
reached, not far from the mouth of the Colorado, near to which is a bow-shaped 
creek, formed by an island, where the water differs from that of the sea and is 
caustic, and causes such malignant sores and boils as to last for many days, tak- 
ing oft" the very skin like a blister, as was mentioned in Ugarte's voyage 20 years 
before. At the inferior bay of San Buenaventura no good water was found. 
The party ascended the river, but meeting with the dangerous bores, did not 
get up as high as the junction of the Gila. Indeed, their canoes do not appear 
to have reached 20 miles from the mouth of the Colorado, when they returned 
to the gulf on the 25th July, and after meeting with many dangers from cur- 
rents, rapids, and storms, finally reached Loretto about the 10th of August, 
1746, after an absence of 60 days. Father Consag says, the reason why he 
mentions no latitudes in his journal is, that they are all set down exactly in his 
chart transmitted to the viceroy and published in Venegas's work, but the instru- 
ments of 1746 gave latitudes from 30 to 60 miles out of the way. It is the 
chart which is the basis of all other charts and maps of the gulf shores of Cali- 
fornia down to the year 1866, and, of C(nirse, is full of dangerous errors. 

Pioceeding down the gulf on the Sonora side, nearly all that is known in 
navigation and chartography is obtained from the explorations by land of 
Fathers Kino and Salvatierra between 1697 and 1706. In these journeys Kino 
ascertained the junction of the Colorado and the Gila, and from the elevations of 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 35 

the " Castle-dome " shaped mountains east of the present Fort Yuma, in the 
afternoons and mornings obtained distinct views of the immense levels and flats, 
on every side bounded by the scattered mountain-ridges of Sonora, and the 
connected sierras of the peninsula, and proved the indisputable junction of the 
continent with the peninsula, with long vistas to the south of the waters of the 
gulf which laved the shores on tlie east and on the west of the Vermilion Sea of 
California. The lands for a long distance below the mouth of the river consist 
of meganos or arenales (in English, desert sands and hilloclcs of sand-powder) ; 
on the Sonora side they extend to below the mouth of the Caborca or Asun- 
cion rivulet, or for some 200 miles a howling wilderness where nothing useful 
grows, which is bare of animal life, and where verdure is rarely met with. Just 
below the mouth of the Caborca is Kino's bay of San. Juan Bautista under lati- 
tude 30°, known since 1860 as Puerto Libertad. No other port of particular 
consequence is met Avith till the fine harbor of Guaymas is reached, which is 
one of the best on the Pacific coast ; the intervening ports between Libertad and 
Guaymas are unknown in hydrography, and the cultivatable and thinly-settled 
country is many leagues in the interior. The most important facts in naviga- 
tion and history connected with the Sonora coast are all from the Jesuit author- 
ities ante 1760, and even these only give a general idea, and are fidl of material 
faults dangerous to the storm-bewildered mariner, or the famished and thirst- 
exhausted traveller. 

The final attempt at the exploration of the gulf coasts of the peninsula under 
the Jesuits was that of Padre Winceslao Link, a native of Bohemia, who had 
recently founded the Mission of San Francisco Boija (pronounced Boreas), 
which is situated in about 28° 30', midway on the parallel of the port of Los 
Angeles, on the gulf, and the northern extremity of the bay of Viscaino, on the 
Pacific. Link, who had only then been a few years in California, instructed a 
number of his Indians in the management of boats, for the purpose of fishing 
and exploring the coasts of his mission district contiguous to the gulf, and by 
the aid of whom in 1765 he made partial exploration of the great island of the 
Angel de la Guarda from Los Angeles port. He travelled over the greater part 
of the island on foot, in which he met with several pleasant-looking valleys, but 
finding no water, animals, nor inhabitants, concluded it useless to prolong his 
investigations, and returned to his port of departure a few days afterward. He 
mentions that the island is about 51 miles in length, and only some six miles in 
breadth ; Americans who have touched at this island and others in the vicinity, 
on their way to the Colorado since 1850, affirm that there are valuable fisheries 
there, and the lands are full of copper, silver, and lead minerals, and in some 
seasons immense numbers of a small and peculiar species of whale?'. 

Two years after this expedition of Link, in the year 1767, the missionaries 
of the Society of Jesus were expelled from the establishments they had founded 
in California; and from that time to 1867, or the space of 100 years, the history 
of the peninsula is vacant of transactions connected with their order. 



CHAPTER VH. 

ENGLISH AND FRENCH NOTICES OF LOWER CALIFORNIA FROM 1700-1772 — WIL- 
LIAM DAMPIER AND ROBINSON CRUSOE MAKE THEIR APPEARANCE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Day by day the power of Spain was weakening, and, in reverse, the other 
states of Europe were strengthening. The French, by some astute arrangements 
growing out of the celebrated family compact between the crowns of Spain and 
France, had carried on, for a considerable period ante 1720, a very lucrative 
traffic in armed merchantmen with the western coasts of South America; some 
of these vessels carried 40 guns and 300 men, and more than one voyage was 
effected by them between China and Peru : indeed, it is stated that as many as 



36 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

20 of these French vessels traded to the west coasts in a single year. The suc- 
cess of these enterprises gaining as is said to French commerce in a few years 
100 millions of dollars, greatly pricked the envy of the English, whose vessels 
began now to furl their sails in every maritime market in the world. 

In the European wars in the reign of Queen Anne of England, when Britain 
and Spain were involved in conflict, a company of adventurers was organized in 
the city of Bristol, in the year 1707, to carry the war into the South Seas, and 
make reprisals on the west coast of America, where France was yearly squeezing 
so much good money out of the supineness and ignorance of the Spanish colo- 
nists. Two ships Avere fitted out for this expedition as privateercmen, which 
were placed by the company under the command of Captain Woodes Rogers, 
whose name became so familiar afterward in English literatui'c in connection 
with the names of Dampier, Selkirk, De Foe, and Robinson Crusoe, and the 
taking of a rich Manilla galleon near the capes of California. Having secured 
a regular commission from Prince George of Denmark, the Lord High Admiral 
of England, and husband of Queen Anne, the frigate Duke, of 320 tons, 30 
guns, and ll7 men, and the frigate Duchess, of 260 tons, 20 guns, and 108 men, 
left Bristol for Cork in August, 1*708, and arrived at the latter place in a few 
days, from whence she departed for the South Seas on the first day of Septem- 
ber, The Duke was commanded by Rogers, under whom went, as chief 
pilot, the celebrated navigator William Dampier, who had previously been on 
the west coasts as high up as Acapulco, and had made two or three voyages 
round the world. The Duchess was commanded by Captain Stephen Court- 
ney. In February, 1709, they arrived at the island of Juan Fernandez, to 
recruit after their toilsome travels around " The Horn," and on this hidden 
hermitage of the western seas found a solitary man Avhose name in a few years 
became Avorld-known as that of Alexander Selkirk, or better as Robinson 
Crusoe, whose adventures, under the manipulating genius of Daniel De Foe, have 
exercised such a wondrous influence on modern travel and adventure, and 
peopled with phantasms the island-world of the Pacific. Rogers made Selkirk 
second mate of his own ship, the Duke, and he is frequently in the naiTative 
mentioned among the names of his officers until his arrival in England; Selkirk 
had been left on the island four years before, in 1703, by Captain Stradling, of 
the ship Cinque Ports. After many adventures on the coasts of Peru, Chili, 
and Mexico, where they sacked several towns and captured a number of valua- 
ble prizes, obtaining thereby immense amounts of treasures, the expedition 
arrived off" Cape San Lucas on the 1st of November, 1709, determined if possi- 
ble to capture the Manilla galleon then on her way to Acapulco. 

This feat was the sine qua non of their adventure, and not getting sight of 
her after nnich bufteting about the neighborhood, they came to anchor at the 
Porto Seguro of Cavendish (the present bay of San Bernabe), a short distance 
northeast of Cape San Lucas, on the 19th of November. After refitting his ves- 
sels, Rogers put to sea again, and getting sight of the galleon, captured her on 
the 23d December, the vessel making a gallant resistance against the English 
ships. Her name was the Nuestra Senora de la Encarnacion de Singano, of some 
600 tons, 20 big guns, 20 small ones called patereroes, and 193 men, and was 
commanded by a chevalier of France, Sir John Pichberty ; the galleon and her 
cargo are valued in some of the accounts of this voyage at over one million of 
dollars, by others two millions. The prisoners in the prize reported they had 
lost sight of a consort named the Bigonia three months before, and that she 
was ot" 900 tons, with 60 big guns and many patereroes, and carried 450 men 
besides many passengers, and had a cargo of great value. On receiving this 
news Rogers and his men were in a delirium of filibuster delights, and imme- 
diately put to sea to waylay the Bigonia, which bore the admiral's flag from 
Manilla, and came up with her a few days afterward, but was badly repulsed by 
the Spaniard, who made his escape and got in safe to anchor at Acapulco. On 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 37 

this discouraging result, tlie English vessels hauled oflf with the loss of several 
men, Rogers himself being severely wounded, and put back to the California 
port to repair and refit. Here the prisoners were ransomed by a draft for 
$6,000 on London, and put aboard a smaller craft, in which they shortly after- 
ward reached the Mexican coasts. 

The galleon Singano, whose title was changed to that of the Bachelor, was 
repaired, and put under the charge of Captain Thomas Dover, with Alexander 
Selkirk as sailing-master, and all the vessels left the Porto Seguro of California 
for the island of Guam on the 11th January, 1710, This Dover was the sur- 
geon of Rogers's vessel, and it is said he was the original inventor of the famous 
Dover's Powder of the apothecary, which holds its well-earned honors to this 
day. .... 

The descriptions which Rogers gives of this portion of California ao-ree in 
every particular with those left us in the Jesuit missionary histories. The 
Indians Avere very numerous, friendly, and docile, and greatly assisted the party 
in procuring wood, water, fish, and other necessaries; and having been feasted 
for days on the sweetmeats of Peru, Mexico, and Manilla, taken in the English- 
men's captures, became so attached to the strangers as to stop aboard the ves- 
sels till they got under way, whe'\i they jumped overboard and swam to land. 
These simple people were often ornamented with necklaces of pearls, and such 
was their skill in diviug that on throwing overboard knives and such-like gifts 
they would dive down and catch the articles before they had time to sink to the 
bottom. In no part of the account of his stay in California did he meet with 
the Jesuit missionaries then engaged in colonizing the country. 

On board the pi'izes taken by Rogers's expedition was found a valuable derro- 
tero, or coast pilot of the west coasts of America from Acapulco to the southern 
islands of Chili, which is accompanied with charts, and occupies 56 pages of his 
journal ; his own chart of the voyage puts down California as an island, as does 
also that of Shelvock a few years afterward, and Anson in 1740 ; yet Rogers says 
lie chooses to believe it is not an island, but joined to the continent. 

In all these nautical matters, the genius and knowledge of that great navio-a- 
tor, AVilliam Dampier, is apparent, and all of them may be said to hold gener- 
ally good to this 1867. 

The expedition reached the island of Guam, on the 11th March, having 
greatly suffered on the passage from bad provisions, and obtaining needful sup- 
plies, left for the Moluccas, arri'iving at Batavia on the 30th June, and from thence 
at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 29th December, I7l0. In company with 
several Dutch vessels, they shortly after quitted the Cape on their voyao-e, and 
anchored at the Tcxel on the 23d June, l7ll, and, after many delays there, final- 
ly reached England on the 14th of October, after an absence of more than three 
years. The different prizes and sackings made by the English vessels are said, 
in some of the accounts, to have aggregated to several millions of dollars, and ex- 
ercised a most important influence in stimulating, subsequently, the attention of 
seamen and merchants to the value of the Pacific trade and countries. 

A few years after, several persons, who had been with Rogers, induced an 
English association to fit out another expedition, under Captain George Shelvock, 
an officer in the English navy. The vessels consisted of the Success, of 36 guns 
and 108 men, under Captain John Clipperton, and the Speedwell, of 24 guns and 
106 men, under Shelvock. The company first procured a commission for this 
latter officer from the Emperor Charles VI. of Germany, then at war with Spain, 
and giving Flemish names to the vessels, which were shortly afterward changed 
back, as war between England and Spain followed in I7l9, a few months 
afterward, and new commissions procured, as English adventurers, from the 
Government of George I. The ships departed from Plymouth, in February 
1719, and there being much bad feeling between the two commanders, the ves 
sels separated, and did not come together again until they met near Panama, in 



38 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

1721 : to both the comrnauders very poor characters are ascribed, which subse- 
quent events seemed amply to justify, after their return to Eogland. The Speed- 
well made her way to the coasts of Chili and Peru, and afterward to Juan Fer- 
nandez, Avhere she was wrecked in 1720. Here a craft of 20 tons, called the 
Recovery, was built from the remains of the Speedwell, with which Shelvock 
made his way back to the coast of Peru, where he captured a small ship, called 
the Jesus Maria. With this he made many reprisals, and proceeded to the 
coasts of Mexico, where, near Sonsonate, he captured, in March, 1721, another 
ship, called the Sacra Familia, of 300 tons, 6 guns, and 70 men, and made fur- 
ther captures and reprisals, and, shortly after, met Clipperton again near Aca- 
pulco, from whom he soon separated, after the usual quarrels, never to come to- 
gether afterward. Having got rid of his prizes and prisoners, and being warned 
by the governor of Sonsonate that the war was at an end, Shelvock sailed with 
the Sacra Fainilia to California, and anchored at the Porto Seguro, of Woodes 
Rogers, on the 13th August, 1721, determined to hunt up the annual galleon 
from Manilla, and capture her, if possible, as he had no means to verify if Spain 
and England were at peace or not : in fact, he "took the chances" to be treated 
as a pirate. 

This great object of their enterprise not appearing immediately — the name of 
which they had learned was the Santo Christo, of 40 guns — and his crew and 
ship being in a state of disorder, and unfitted to meet an enemy or bad weather, 
on the IStli of August Shelvock made sail from California for the island of Guam, 
where he arrived in bad plight on the 1st of October. After a short detention 
here, he quitted Guam and arrived at Macao on the 11th November, and "get- 
ting into a row " with the mandarins, who " squeezed " him to the tune of 
several thousands, sold his vessel, divided some 200,000 dollars amongst his crew, 
retaining a small amount for his owners — certain "gentlemen adventurers," 
whose backers seem to have been such high wigs as the Earl of Berkeley and 
the Lords of the Admiralty — and finally took passage in the Cadogan, East India- 
man, and arrived in England on the 30th July, 1722, after an absence of forty- 
three months. Shelvock, some time afterward, was arraigned before the English 
courts ;is a pirate and swindler, and his owners were much incensed with him, 
as, from his want of judgment, management, and prudence, and the lack of those 
qualities in Clipperton, the whole aftair tui'ned out a ruinous speculation. His 
work, and that of Betagh, who was in the Success Avith Clipperton, contains many 
curious and interesting matters relating to the navigation, trade, and countries 
of the American Pacific coasts, which subseqiient explorations materially verify, 
but they are not to be compared in value to those of Dampier and Rogers. His 
description of the Indians and country around Cape San Lucas occupies 25 
pages. The Indians treated him as well as they did Rogers, as he fed them on 
sweetmeats as the latter had done, but he does not speak of the Jesuit settle- 
ments then going on farther north, and nothing in knowledge was further gained 
than was shown by his predecessor. 

On his passage from Cape San Lucas, at the distance of some 110 leagues 
from it to the west-southwest, in about latitude 21°, Shelvock discovered a rocky 
island of seven or eight leagues' circumference, which was named after him by 
his men. This island is represented on many maps and charts to this day as 
Shelvock's Island, but Burney and other geographers say it is the same as the 
Rocas Partidas of Villalobos, described by that navigator before 1543 ; but to 
this day the question is not properly settled, many subsequent navigators con- 
founding it with the Islas Nubladas, farther east, or with the Islas Los Alijos, 
several hundred miles westof Magdalena Ba)^ In the chart of Shelvock's voyage, 
he sets down California as an island. 

In the year 1708 the French ship Saint Antoine, under Captain Frondac, 
made a voyage, between May and July, from China to the west coast, and hav- 
ing steered north as high as 45°, he met the usual westerly winds, which brought 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 39 

him to the nortli California coasts, from whence he dropped down to a good port 
in Lower California in 31°, where he so greatly refreshed his crew as to lose but 
few of his men by scurvy and bad provisions, and proved the want of good man- 
agement in the Manilla galleons. This port, it would seem, must have been in 
tiie vicinities to the north of Cedros Island. Frondac's venture was sold by him 
in Peru and Chili at great profit, but the remnants, as contraband cargo from 
China, permitted to be landed only at Acapulco, was seized at Concepcion 
in Chili, and the Frenchman put in prison, from which he was only released by 
the Spanish comandante, after being " squeezed" in the snug sum of ^14,000. 

In the summer of 1G97 an Italian traveller, Giovani Francisco Gemelli Car- 
reri, celebrated in geography and Mexican history, under the name of Gemelli, 
made a voyage in the galleon from Manilla to Acapulco, which is described in 
his six years' journey round the world, published in Italy about 1720, and after- 
ward in several English and French collections. Gemelli relates a sad descrip- 
tion of the ravages of the scurvy among the crew of his ship, and, from his state- 
ment, it appears to have been wholly owing to ignorance and filth. He gives 
some immaterial account of the voyage in sight of the California coasts to Cape 
San Lucas, and mentions, among other things, the immense quantities of sea- 
weed they fell in with in the vicinity of the shores. In the latter part of 1697 
he arrived at Acapulco, and afterward travelled many months in the interior of 
Mexico, and collected accounts and pictures of the Aztec hieroglyphics and tra- 
ditions, which are considered of superior value to this day, and often mentioned 
by Humboldt, Prescott, and other eminent writers in American history. 

NOTICES OF THE COASTS OF LOWER CALIFORNIA FROM 1725-1800 — SPANISH 

PILOT-BOOK FROM MANILLA TO ACAPULCO ANTE 1740 THE ADMIRAL OF THE 

GALLEaNS VOYAGES OF ANSON, MALASPINA, AND OTHERS. 

In a scarce old nautical work, published in Spanish at Manilla in 1734, by 
Admiral Cabrero Bueno, an excellent derrotero^ or coast pilot-guide for the 
ocean parts of Lower California, is given between San Diego and Cape San 
Lucas, the knowledge of which appears to have been acquired in the course of 
many years' sailing along the coasts in the service of the galleons for Acapulco. 
This vrork seems to be almost entirely unknown to English, French, or Ameri- 
can hydrographists, as far as we are av/are, except by Admiral Burney in his 
work on Pacific voyages of 1816. The meagre remarks of Burney indicate that 
he was not personally acquainted wdth the valuable contents of the volume per- 
taining to the Californias, nor can we find it in Navarette's historical sketch of 
Spanish northwest voyages of 1802, though it is merely alluded to in Paulou's 
life of Junipero Serra. The work of the Manilla admiral is the best punctuated 
and most carefully-detailed of any work in history or hydrography which has 
come under our notice on the Lower California coasts ; and, though evidently 
using Viscaino's materials of 1602, makes numerous and excellent additions to 
them of a highly practical nature. The bay of Todos Santos, below the Coro- 
nados, is put down in 32^ largo, or a little over ; San Marcos in 32° escasos, 
or short, with the bay of San Quintin near by; the bay of Virgins in 31f ° ; 
San Geronimo Island in 31|-° ; next to this is the island of Cenizas, then the 
mesas or table-lands of Juan Gomez, then the bay of San Francisco, then Cape 
San Augustin, after which are found Natividad and Isle Cerros, then San Barto- 
lom6 port, then Los Abreojos, then Asuncion Island, after which are found 
the island of San Roque ar.d the bay of Ballenas. The next locality of importance 
mentioned is the bay of Magdalena, under 25°, the description of which agrees, 
as far as it goes, with our present accounts. A bay farther in the southern parts 
of Magdalena is called the bay of Santa Marina in 24|-°, evidently near the 
island Santa Margarita ; farther to the south is the Sierra Enfado, under 23|-°, 
after which you shortly arrive at the extremity of the peninsula known as Cape 



40 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

Sail Lucas, near to which, to the northeast, is the bay of San Bernabe. Many 
other anchorages and localities are mentioned with much particularit}'^, but not 
by name as above noted ; the titles of the points given are in the words of 
Cabrera Bueno. We know of no recent work which is as reliable as a coast 
pilot of the ocean coasts of Lower California as that of the Manilla navigator, 
and it would answer to make a voyage by to this day. He places the island of 
Guadalupe in 29° lat and 104° 30' long., and Cape San Lucas in 22° 52' lat. 
and 113° 13' long., both west of TencrifFe according to the old Spanish custom. 
The island of Guadalupe was long disputed as a myth, but its definite locality 
was onlv finally established in geographv in 1837 bv Admiral Du Petit Thenars 
at 27° 7' 25" of lat., and in 130° 42' 45" long, west of Paris. The French 
navigator in the same year also fixed the position of the rocky islets called Los 
Alijos, discovered by the Manilla captain, Marquina, in 1791, some 150 miles 
west of Magdalena Bay, in lat. 24° 57' 30", and long. 118° 5' 50" west of Paris. 
It will be seen from these differences that Cabrera Bueno's instruments were ex- 
tremely defective, but that was a quality all nautical observations partook of 
before the year 1800. 

Li sequence of authorities ought not to be omitted the celebrated voyage 
round the world of Lord Anson in the frigate Centurion, which left England in 
1740, and returned from China in June, 1744. This expedition formed a squad- 
ron, and consisted of the Centurion, of 60 guns and 400 men ; the Gloucester, 
of 50 guns and 300 men ; the Severn, of 50 guns and 300 men ; the Pearl, of 
40 guns and 250 men ; the Wager, of 28 guns and 160 men; the Tryal, of 8 
guns and 100 men; and two victualling-vessels. Besides, there were on board 
470 soldiers, or marines, of a land force, under Colonel Crachcrode. The design 
was to annoy the towns and commerce of Spanish America on the west coast, 
and especially to look out for and capture the Manilla galleon. After doing 
much damage below Panama, and getting several prizes, and losing or retiring 
of several of his squadron, and losing lai'ge numbers of his men by scurvy, the 
Centurion and Gloucester, with three small vessels captured as prizes, arrived 
otl" Acapulco in the spring of 1742. After anxious seeking for this great prize 
without result, and without touching on any ixtrt of the coasts of California, of 
which considerable is mentioned, in May, 1742, Anson burnt his prizes, and 
with the Gloucester sailed from his cruisino'-m-ound, and, stretchina" off on the gal- 
Icons' route, refitted at the island of Tinian, near Guam, and from thence sailed 
to Macao, from which place he returned in the Centurion to the Manilla vicini- 
ties to look for the galleon, Li the middle of June the Centurion came up with 
the Cabadonga galleon, of 36 guns and 550 men, under Captain Geronimo Mon- 
tero, and, after a desperate action, Anson captured her with nearly a million and 
one-third dollars in silver, which, with the galleon and former captures below 
Panama, were valued at 5,000,000 dollars. The Gloucester had been scuttled 
and burnt at sea before arriving at Tinian, her crew joining the Centurion. 
After the capture of the Cabadonga, he sailed for Canton, and from thence to 
England, where he arrived in the midst of " the old French War." For this 
" streak of luck" Anson was given a patent of nobility, which his heirs enjoy 
to this day. In his capture of the galleon he obtained valuable charts and 
pilot-books of the galleons' route and of the coasts of California, which were 
published in his accounts of the voyage in 1748, where as late as that date Cali- 
fornia was set doivn as an island ! This voyage of Anson subsequently had a 
most telling influence on the affairs of the countries of the west coast of America, 
and wonderfully elated the people of England and the American colonies, as 
much as it chagrined the Government and people of Spain and her possessions, 
Vinson's force being much inferior, though better armed, than the Spaniards. 
Anson's brave opponent was an old California and galleon navigator, and is 
mentioned in Venegas's work, and was wounded in the action. 

The next nautical notice we have of the coasts of the peninsula is by the 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 41 

celebrated navigator Alexander Malaspina, who, from some a;rudge among the 
officials of Spain, was incarcerated by the orders of Godoy, Prince of the Peace, 
in the castle of Corunna, on his return to Spain from his voyage round the 
world, about 1794, and was not liberated until, at the express request of the Em- 
peror Napoleon, about the year 1808. Having touched at Acapulco, Monterey, 
and many points above Cape Mendocino to Mount St. Elias in 1791, in the fall of 
that year he returned on his steps to Acapulco along the coast of the peninsula, 
and examined the positions of the island of Guadalupe, and also of the Mission 
of San Jose del Cabo. The expedition of Malaspina consisted of the corvettes 
Descubierta and Atrevida, in which went as his assistants the two afterward 
celebrated hydrographists Bustamente and Bauza, who, with Malaspina, greatly 
improved the chartography of tlie west coasts between Panama and Behring's 
Straits. Unfortunately, the Spanish Government has never allowed the journals 
of this expedition to be printed. 

On the return of the schooners Sutil and Mejicana from explorino- the 
Straits of Juan de Fuca in the fall of 1792, their commanders, Galiano and 
Valdez, kept those vessels close to the coasts of the peninsula, but without com- 
ing to anchor at any place. The latitudes and the longitudes of the Alijos 
Kocks and of Cape San Lucas were examined, but without landing ; but nothing- 
gained in science over what had been noticed by Malaspina, Marqnina, and 
others. Both Galiano and Valdez, with several other Spanish naval officers who 
served in Californin, were in the fight against Nelson at the battle of Tra- 
falgar. 

None of the expeditions of Byron, 1764, Wallis, 1767, Carteret, 1768, Bou- 
gainville, 1768, Cook's three voyages, 1769 to 1780, La Perouse, 1785, nor those 
of any of the Dutch navigators of the eighteenth century who left published ac- 
counts, ever touched on the coasts of Lower California ; nor did any Spanish 
one, except at Cape San Lucas. In 1793 Captain George Vancouver, in the 
Discovery sloop-of-war, on his return from Monterey to England, stopped at 
San Diego, and afterward sailed down in sight of the coast of Lower California, 
but he never brought his vessel to anchor in any place — a matter Findley, in 
1851, does not make us aware of, but reference to the original voyage, pub- 
lished in 1798, shows the fact. Vancouver's remarks on the peninsular lines 
are therefore of little exact value either in geography or hydrography. 

Between the years 1784 and 1800, American and English whalers, sealers, 
and other hunters, began to visit the coasts of Baja California, and some of them 
are stated to have made immense profits, but no account of these ventures has 
been printed to our knowledge, or the sciences of navigation and geography 
benefited from their enterprises — their remarks being confined either to the 
islands and coasts of Mexico below the gulf, or to those of Alta California be- 
tween San Diego and Behring's Straits, 



CHAPTER Vin. 

NOTICES OF VOYAGES FROM 1800 TO 1846 TOUCHING THE PENINSULA — BOSTON 
VOYAGE OF 1808 MAKES A MINT OF MONEY. 

In a fur-trading and otter-hunting expedition, fitted out from Boston in 1800, 
Captain O'Keene rediscovered the bay of Virgenes, now often called San 
Quintin, whereas present accounts make them two localities within a few 
leagues of each other. This voyage is stated in some old magazine to have re- 
turned immense profits. 

In December of the year 1807 the ship Dromio, of 600 tons, belonging to 
Boston, commanded by an old Northwest trader, and carrying 26 guns and 108 
men, sailed from that port for a smuggling voyage on the west coast of America, 
zVfter making many good sales between Chili and Mexico, she arrived at Shel- 



42 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

vock's Island, soutliwest from Cape San Lucas, near 21° latitude, in November, 
1808, and employed her crew in killing fur seals, of whicli they succeeded in 
accumulatino; in the course of a fortnight 3,000 skins, worth much good mOney 
then in the Canton market, where the ship was bound. From this island, the 
latitude of which is not stated, they went to Guaymas in December, and sold 
some $150,000 of goods, and from thence to San Jose del Cabo ; at both these 
places the ship's crew were treated with great kindness and liberality. Leaving 
San Jose on the 3 1st December, they arrived at the bay of Todos Santos, on 
4th January, 1809, which he places in 31° 36' lat. and 116° 22' long., and 
which is to the north of the bay of Virgenes. Here many Lidians and but few 
Spaniards were met with, though they were not far from the mission of San 
Miguel, and succeeded, after trading with the people for 34 days, in exchanging 
most of the remnants of their cargo for 1,700 fur-otter skins. " For their cargo 
shipped at Boston two years ago," says Captain Little, who wrote an account 
of the voyage, " we had in its place $650,000 (coined), $40,000 in old silver 
plate, $10,000 m plata jina and pearls, 3,200 fur-seal skins, and 1,700 fur-otter 
skins. 

On the 7th February, 1809, they left Todos Santos for China, and arrived 
at the Sandwich Islands on the 25th of the same month, and at Canton on 
the 10th of May, where their silver and fur cargo were sold at such spinning 
profits that it purchased a cargo of China teas and silks for the Dromio, and filled 
the ship Baltic, of Providence, with another. These two ships finally sailed for 
home, via the Cape of Good Hope, and having escaped the French and English 
cruisers, arrived at Boston on the 4th of March, 1810, after one of the most 
fortunate and profitable voyages ever made out of that port, the tea alone in 
those days doubling net profits on the price in China. 

In consequence of the wars in Europe and the revolt of the Spanish colonists in 
Mexico and South America, and the absurd restrictions imposed on commerce 
by Spain, all business carried on with the AVest Coast was contraband and clan- 
destine between 1800 and 1825, when the mother-country gave up the contest, 
and the legitimate trade of the West Coast began sensibly to augment, particu- 
larly from England and France, and by the year 1835 the influence of the new 
system effected great changes in the two Californias. Many whalers, sealers, 
and otter-hunters, between 1808 and 1840, frequented San Jose del Cabo, La 
Paz, Magdalena, Viscaino, Turtle, Ballenas, Virgenes, San Quintin, and Todos 
Santos Bays, under American, French, Russian, and British colors, the greater 
number of which were American, and valuable cargoes of sperm-oil and other 
products of the sea were also obtained. The northern mission districts between 
Viscaino and Todos Santos Bays were often traded with by these vessels ; but 
by the year 1835, after the secularization of the missions, those vicinities became 
so poor from this cause and from the revolts of their Indians as to offer no mo- 
tive for any extensive traffickings or smugglings. 

In the year 1826 Messrs. Martin and Jacques Lafitte, in conjunction with 
M. Laval, bankers and capitalists of France, well known afterward in French 
politics and finance, fitted out the armed merchant-ship Heros, under Captain 
Augouste Duhaut Cilley, an old sea-captain and Chevalier of the Legion of 
Honor, for a mercantile adventure to the Sandwich Islands, the west coast of 
America, and China. She was a fine-built large vessel, and well armed, and 
with a numerous and well-appointed crew of over 100 men, properly officered 
with lieutenants, etc., etc., carrying one of the best-selected cargoes ever sent 
from France to the Pacific coasts. This voyage seemed to have grown out of 
that of Captain Camillo de Roqucfcnille in the ship Bourdelais, of Bordeaux, 
who traded on the California coasts from 1819 to 1821, and who was a friend 
of Duhaut Cilley. Sailing from Havre on the 10th of April, 1826, the Heros 
doubled the Horn and traded on the coast of South America nntil the latter 
part of September of that year, and finally arrived in California, at San Jose 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 43 

del Cabo, near the end of October. He remained in this part of the peninsula 
till the last of November, trading with the people on advantao-eous and friendly 
terras, and mentions the kind treatment he received from Padre Tonias Ahu- 
mada, the superior of the missions, then in his 65th year, who had lived in the 
country 16 years, and by the military chief. Colonel Jose Marie Padres, and 
Don Antonio Navarro, the administrator of the customs, and a solitary French- 
man by the name of Bello. Colonel Padres was a native of La Puebla in 
Mexico, and had served in the revolutionary wars under President Victoria; he 
was the same who afterward came to Monterey, with Hijar, with the colonists 
of Mexico, about 1833. 

The observations of Duhaut Cillcy in Lower California do not extend far- 
ther than the country between the cape and the Real de San Antonio to the 
northeast, and they evince much that is interesting and valuable as to the nature 
and resources of the country. He left afterward for Mazatlan, and from thence 
visited the coasts of Alta California, trading for several months, in 1827-28, at 
San Diego, San Pedro, Santa Barbara, Monterey, Santa Cruz, San Francisco, 
and Ross, returning a second time to Cape San Lucas and Mazatlan, and mak- 
ing another trip to Callao, from whence he returned to Upper California. 
He finally left California for the Sandwich Islands in September, 1828, and ar- 
rived at Canton on the 25tli December of the same year, and, after freighting his 
ship, finally reached Havre on the 19th of July, 1829. This work of Duliaut 
Cilley is one of the most interesting written on the two Californias before 1840, 
and his voyage is said to have terminated very profitably for the owners, one 
of whom, Jacques Lafitte, became a celebrated minister of the French Cabinet, 
and a wealthy and well-known banker, connected with American commerce. 

The voyage of the Blossom, under Captain F. W. Beechey (afterward ad- 
miral), in 1825-28, with whom went Lieutenant (now Admiral) Belcher, did not 
land on the coasts of Lower California, but Belcher returned in 1837-'39 in the 
Sulphur, having as consort the Starling under Lieutenant Kellett, on another 
California exploration, of whom we shall presently give account, as he surveyed 
some ocean points of the peninsula with care, and Avliich are used in naviga- 
tion at the present time. 

Between the years 1825 and 1831, Captain Benjamin Morrell made four 
voyages to the Pacific from New York in the clipper-ship Margaret Oakley, 
and visited and traded largely in the ports, islands, bays, and anchorages of the 
two Californias, of which accounts were published by himself about 1835, and 
by Captain Jacobs in 1844, for notations of which see our " Bibhografia Cali- 
fornica" of 1863-'66. His principal business seems to have been seal and otter 
hunting, and looking up islands of guano, intercalated with many adventurous 
snaps of smuggling. His accounts are much ridiculed, but we cannot see for 
what good reason, as his authority has been quoted by eminent navigators, and 
much that he narrates on Upper California has been verified since the epoch 
of gold. He mentions the immense numbers of whales, seals, otters, and fish 
of all kinds when he visited San Quintin Bay, Cenizas Island, and other points 
on the peninsula coast. 

In December, 1835, Captain Beechey was sent from England, in the Sulphur 
and Starling, on another expedition to the coasts of the Californias and the 
Northwest, to complete his surveys of 1826-'2S. Beechey invahding at Val- 
paraiso, Sir Edward Belcher assumed command of the expedition at Panama, 
the Starling being placed under Lieutenant (now Captain) Kellett, whose name 
is so well known in California, and in 1837-38 proceeded to complete the sur- 
veys of the coasts between Behring's Straits and Panama, from which he re- 
turned to explore those of certain parts of the peninsula below San Diego in 
October and November, 1839. Entering San Quintin, Belcher fixed the position 
of the sandy point on the left side of the entrance, confirming the name of the bay 
as San Quintin, as in contradistinction to that of Las Vira;enes and Five Hills 
46 



44 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

Bay, and making no further mention of the true Las Virgenes a little farther 
south : the sandv point of San Quintin is placed by him in 32° 22', and longitude 
115° 56' 33". 

From thence he moved down to the hay of Turtles, or San Bartolome, 
the northern head of which he placed in latitude 27° 40', and 114° 51' 20" 
longitude. On the 31st October he anchored in the bay of Magdalena, of wliich 
he made a survey of considerable detail. Belcher spent not less than 18 days 
in this great bay, leaving for Cape San Lucas on the 18th November, but, singu- 
lar to say, he neither mentions its proper dimensions, nor fixes the latitude or 
longitude of a single one of its points, and this omission occui's also for Cape San 
Lucas, that is, in his narrative now before us (see octavo edition of 1843, vol. i.), 
and occupying six pages. This was probably done from some secret political 
motive, as the French frigate Venus, under Du Petit Thouars, was then in the 
neighborhood, and Wilkes's expedition also was expected on the California 
coasts. On the 20th November he arrived at the San Lucas Cape, and after- 
ward made survey of the islands of Socorro and Clarion, farther to the south- 
ward. Belcher afterward visited the Sandwich and many other Polynesian 
islands farther westward, from whence he departed for China and took an active 
part in the ''Opium War" of 1840-'41, then being waged between the English 
and Chinese. In 1841 he left for England via the Moluccas, Singapore, Ceylon, 
the Seychelles, and the Cape of Good Hope, and finally arrived at Spithead on 
the 19th July, 1842, after an absence of nearly seven years, and making the 
most extended and lengthened voyage ever made by any government. Findley, 
in his "Pacific Ocean Directory of 1851," in two separate portions of the work, 
says Belcher makes Point Delgado the position of his observatory in latitude 
38° 24' 18", and longitude 112° 6' 21", a most extraordinary mistake, difficult 
to account for, the place being under latitude 25° in the chart attached to Bel- 
cher's own volume. All this stuff and nonsense about Magdalena was doubtless 
owing to the national jealousy growing out of the Oregon dispute, as Belcher's 
book was published when this storm in politics was then getting under high- 
pressure culminations, and John Bull determined to dole out his nautical knowl- 
edge in pennyworths of a bad quality. 

While Belcher's survey was in progress, the Government of Louis Philippe 
fitted out an expedition from Brest in December, 1836, in the frigate Venus, 
under Captain (now Admiral) Du Petit Thouars, who visited almost the entire 
west coasts of the two Americas, particularly Upper and Lower California, and 
many of the Pacific islands and groups, and finally returned to France in June, 
1839. This voyage is remarkable from the important events growing out of 
the French occupation of the Society and Marquesas groups, in which the 
French admiral took an active part, and for the valuable and extensive additions 
made in the sciences of hydrography, geography, and natural history of the 
countries visited by the Venus, made by'the officers and naturalists of the ex- 
pedition, who are now distinguished savans in France. The Venus visited the 
bay of Magdalena, and the French officers observed with proper instruments 
several of its localities, and also fixed the latitudes and longitudes of the AHjos 
Rocks, 140 miles to the west of Magdalena, discovered by Captain Marquina 
of the San Andres galleon in 1791, and those of the island of Guadalupe, men- 
tioned by Cabrera Bueno and other Spanish navigators between 1720 and 1800. 

The United States exploring expedition of 1838-'41, under Lieutenant (now 
Admiral) Wilkes, did not visit any portion of the peninsula of Lower Cali- 
fornia. 

In the summer of 1847 the English frigate Spy, under Captain S. 0„ "Wool- 
ridge, visited the port of Guaymas, and with his officer, Mr. Jeftrey, made care- 
ful examinations of its soundings and anchorages. The same officers also crossed 
over to the peninsula, a few days after, and made similar explorations of the 
bay of Moleje, but he does not appear to have fixed the latitude and longitude 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 45 

of any of its points. Woolridge, however, visited La Paz and tLe neighboring 
islands, and fixes the north end of Espiritu Santo in latitude 24° 36', and longi- 
tude 110° 22', and the north end of Ceralbo in latitude 24° 23', and the longi- 
tude of its south end in 109° 45'; the town of La Paz is placed in latitude 
24° 10', and longitude 109° 45'. 

Between 1837-'39 Dr. F. D. Bennet made a voyage in an English whaling- 
vessel to the Pacific coasts, in which they captured many sperm and other 
whales on the coasts of Lower California, and visited the settlements near Cape 
San Lucas. Between 1836 and 1846 great numbers of whalers, English, French, 
and American, recruited with much advantage in these southern settlements, 
principally at La Paz and San Jose del Cabo, and always found supplies of 
wood, water, fish, fruit, beef, and. vegetables at reasonable prices. As many as 
ten whalers have been anchored at a time in these ports, and they are still 
resorted to, and offer cheap, reasonable, and convenient outfits to the best seal- 
ing and whaling grounds. 

In June, 1845, the British Government sent the frigate Herald, of 26 guns, 
under Captain Henry Kellett, and the tender Pandora, under Lieutenant James 
Wood, for a voyage of survey and exploration to the coasts above Panama and 
to the Arctic, and in the course of which was also ordered to search for the 
remains of Sir John Franklin in the Arctic Seas above Behring's Straits. Kel- 
lett had formerly served under Belcher in the California waters ten years before, 
and was now accompanied by several naturalists, and officers whose names 
have since become celebrated in the natural and maritime sciences, and the 
fruits of the Herald's surveys and labors were an immense addition to human 
knowledge, of which a sketch may be seen in the volumes of Seeman, Forbes, 
and their confreres, printed after 1853. Kellett sailed from San Francisco in 
October, 1846, and after surveying several islands in the Santa Barbara group, 
proceeded to make an examination of the Coronados Islets below San Diego, 
the highest peak of Avhich he measured as 575 feet above the sea, but Seeman 
does not mention that any latitudes or longitudes of it were fixed, nor that of 
Cape Colnett, not far from the Mission of Santo Tomas, which they visited a 
few days after. On the 14th October they fixed the position of the island of 
San Martin in latitude 30° 28' and longitude 115° 57', the right-hand peak of 
which was made 567 feet above the sea. On the next day they anchored ofi" 
San Quintin Bay, but made no observations, and, passing San Geronimo Island 
on the 22d, anchored on the 25th under the eastern end of Cedros Island. On 
this island they found in good, preservation, from the dryness of the atmosphere, 
the head-boards of two English sailors who had been buried there from London 
whalers in the year 1819. The summit of the highest peak of Cedros Island 
is put down at 2,500 feet, and the position of the small bay where they were 
anchored was fixed in latitude 28° 03' and longitude 115° U'. On the 2d of 
November (1846), they entered Magdalena Bay, where they stopped several 
days to overhaul and refit the Herald. On the 10th they left for Cape San 
Lucas, which' they sighted and left for Mazatlan, where they arrived on the 12th. 
On the 21st they left Mazatlan for San Bias, and the lower coast, having on 
board as passenger no less a person than the Rev. Father Macnamara, who was 
making such a noise about that time in founding his groat colony of Irish Cath- 
olic refugees in the Tulare valley of the present State of California. The Herald 
immediately afterward proceeded to survey the coasts and islands of the prov- 
inces of Veraguaand Panama, and those of the shores of the Isthmus of Darien, 
Gulf of San Miguel and vicinities, which are (in 1867) attracting so much atten- 
tion in connection with the great ship-canal. 

Returning from the northwest coasts in November, 1849, the officers of the 
Herald examined the coasts between the cape and the bay of Moleje, and in 
February, 1850, surveyed (as noted by Lieutenant Henry Trollope) the islands 
and points of those vicinities and south called Santa Inez Island, Points Palpito 



46 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

and Mangles (near which are beaiitiful valleys and woods), the bay of Loretto, 
Puerto Escondido, Carmen Island, and the Salinas Bay, and the Danzante 
Islets, and having also examined the vicinities of the port of Guaymas, in the 
early part of March they fixed the positions of Santa Cruz, and the south part 
of Ceralbo Island, and examined the rock of San Ignacio, and also Ballenas 
Bay in the island of Espiritu Santo. The only position which is fixed in all 
these places as noted in Seeman's narrative of the voyage, is that of San Jose 
del Cabo, of which Lieutenant Trollope gives the best nautical account of any 
traveller w^e have seen, and which is set down as in latitude 23° 3' 15" and 
longitude 109° 37' 53". On the 22d March, 1850, they returned to Mazatlan. 
After again in vain searching the Arctic shores for Sir John Franklin's party, the 
Herald left for the Sandwich Islands, and from thence to China, Singapore, and 
the Cape, and arrived in England on the 6th June, 1851, after an absence of six 
years. 

In connection with the Gulf of California explorations ought not to be omit- 
ted the Pearl-diving and Coral-fishery Association established in 1825 at Lon- 
don during the great Anglo-Spanish- American rage for mining in Mexico and 
South America, and which deceived so many thousands of credulous people in 
England. This association sent out to Lower California, as their managing- 
director. Lieutenant Hardy, of the British navy, with a regular diving-bell and 
all its fixtures, who, on his arrival, proceeded to make explorations of the pearl- 
oyster beds among the islands above the Sal Si Puedes and Tibui'on, but with- 
out eftecting much else than running away with a large quantity of good money. 
Hardy afterward explored the lower part of the Colorado, and travelled overland 
from Sonora to the Rio Grande, and in his book added many facts of curious 
interest and value on the condition of the then little known countries of North 
Mexico ante 1830. It is likely that the new American diving-apparatus would, 
succeed where Hardy's English one foiled. 

In the commission formed under John R. Bartlett in 1850 to 1853, to sur- 
vey the new boundary with Mexico according to the 1848 treaty, is mentioned 
the attempt of carrying out a survey of the head of the gulf under the late 
Lieutenant J. G. Strain, one of Bartlett's oflicers, but which fell through from 
want of government support. 

Between 1858 and 1860 Captain (now General) Charles P. Stone, a well- 
known officer, who had served in the army in Mexico and California, made 
many surveys of the country in the northern lands and coast-lines of Sonora, 
between Guaymas and the mouth of the Colorado. This it was said at the 
time was in unison with certain mining adventures and colonizations in Sonora, 
and the railroad plans of General Angel Trias, of Chihuahua, to connect the 
Rio Grande valley with the port of Guaymas, but we are not aw'are of any 
work published on these important affairs, otherwise than in brief newspaper 
articles in the California journals. 

In 1857 the Government of the United States fitted out a well-appointed 
expedition to survey the river Colorado from its entrance at the gulf to its 
farthest navigable limit. A small steamer, called the Explorer, was purchased, 
and the command of the exploration placed under Lieutenant J. C. Ives, of the 
Topographical Engineers, who was provided with a distinguished staft' of scien- 
tific assistants and artists, who accumulated a vast amount of valuable facts use- 
ful to the Government and the public, as well as to the cause of science ; 
the volume, published by order of Congress in 1861, containing the results of the 
survey, was profusely illustrated with every object of interest pertaining to ou(! 
of the richest in minerals and most extraordinary in physical development of 
any district on the earth's surface. Much useful and original information was 
collected on the mouth of the river, and the islands, tides, freshets, bores, and 
course of the stream from its entrance at the gulf to Fort Yuma, as well as of 
the country, Indians, and climate of that portion below the Gila, which belongs 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 47 

politically to Lower California and Sonora. The map of the course of the 
river as far as Fort Yuma is the greatest addition ever made to the accurate 
chartography of any portion of the peninsula. The river survey commenced at 
the mouth of the Colorado on the 28th November, 1857, and ended near the 
Great Canon in the middle of April, 1858. 

In 1864, Captain A. D. Byrd, engaged for the seven previous years as pilot, 
etc., in the navigation of the Colorado, published in San Francisco a new chart 
of the river from actual surveys and soundings, commencing at the entrance of 
the galf, and ending at the termination of ship navigation, or near Cocopat 
Slough. 

CHAPTER IX. 

THE NEW GRANT OF COLONIZATION TO AMERICAN COLONISTS — EXTENT IN SQUARE 
MILES AND ACRES OF THIS GRANT ALSO OF CALIFORNIA AND OTHER PA- 
CIFIC STATES. 

In March, 1863, Jacob P. Leese, since 1833 a settler in Alta California, and 
Santiago Viosco of Mexico, obtained from the government of Lower California 
a concession of lands in Lower California, including all the country from the 
gulf to the ocean, and between the parallels of Magdalena Bay and those of the 
bay of San Quintin, or say from the latitude of 21° to that of 31°, making the 
limits come to within about 100 miles below the American frontier line. 

The southern limits are bounded by the line of 24°, running from the ocean 
to the gulf, and does not include any thing below certain points in the bay of 
Magdalena. The grant includes all islands, ports, bays, harbors, fisheries, etc., 
etc., both within the ocean and the gulf jurisdictions of the peninsula, and was 
made for the purpose of introducing colonists. This great concession is stated 
to cover nearly 50,000 square miles of laud, or 32,000,000 of acres, and its 
terms were confirmed by the proper representatives of the Mexican Govern- 
ment at the city of New York, in November, 1865, by the further payment of 
$100,000, President Juarez ratifying the contract at the city of Chihuahua, in 
August, 1866. The original owners afterward included in their rights by pur- 
chase some of the most prominent public men and capitalists of California, and 
of New York and other Eastern cities. All these facts were published in the 
public journals of the United States at the time, and have been reverted to on 
many occasions up to the present period. In December, 1866, Mr. J. Ross 
Browne, the former Treasury agent of the United States for the Pacific coast, 
and well known in California as an old traveller and author, was employed by 
the company, with a competent corps of gentlemen of scientific character, 
residents of San Francisco, as his assistants, to make a thorough exploration of 
the country within the limits of the grant, as its true character is very little 
understood, except from accounts of the Jesuits before 1768. In the month of 
January, 1867, the proprietors of the concession were duly incorporated by the 
Legislature of the State of New York into a legal body, under the title and, 
status of The Lower California Colonization Land Company. 

The American surveyors estimate that the peninsula of Lower California 
and its islands contain 200,000 square miles of land, or 128,000,000 of acres. 
The State of California contains, according to the most recent (1864) calcula- 
tions of the United States Land-Office, a territorial extent of 158,687 square 
miles, or 101,559,680 acres. Though no exact result of this kind can ever be 
attained without an expensive trigonometrical survey, and though Lower 
California is not well known in its length or breadth, or its latitudes or longi- 
tudes, 'there is no doubt that it covers at least as much ground as does the State 
of California. Oregon covers 95,248 square miles; Nevada, 81,539 square 
miles; Utah, 106,382 square miles; and Arizona, 126,141 square miles. So 
it is seen Lower California has quite a large area, and considerably larger than 



48 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

its neiglibors, as even Sonora Las 174,000 square miles, and Sinaloa SijYOO 
square miles. 

THE GREAT STORES OF FISH, SHELLS, CETACEA, PHOCIDEA, AND OTHER MARINE 
ANIMALS OF THE CALIFORNIA PENINSULA. 

Having in the preceding notices given a sketcli of the sea-sliores and islands, 
and of the succession and precession of discoveries and navigations of Baja Cali- 
fornia from the earliest records in 1532 to the present (1867), we shall now tou^li 
summarily on the extraordinary and wonderful wealth of the animal life of its 
marine waters. From all the accounts, histories, and voyages we have quoted, 
and from the uniform testimony of those more recently who have personally had 
knowledge of these matters since the discovery of gold in Upper California, it 
would appear to excel any portion of the world in the wondrous fertility. of its 
fisheries. As early as 1537 and 1539, the infinite numbers of whales, seals, and 
fur otters of numberless varieties, were noted by Ulloa, who first completely navi- 
gated the rshores of the peninsula from the mouth of the Colorado to Cape San 
Lucas, and thence on the ocean coast up to Cedros Island. Then all kinds of 
shell-fish or raollusca, and of crustacea, such as lobsters, crabs, crawfish, etc., 
number by the thousands of species, and all in great abundance and of excellent 
edible qualities, as well as of the family of turtles. The proper family of fishes 
of all the known genera are found in every bay and harbor, in such extraordi- 
nary quantities, and of such excellent dietetic qualities, as to have been remarked 
by every navigator or writer we have mentioned or read of, and it is to the pres- 
ent time a matter of wonder to every visitor to Lower California. Except the 
mollusca, cetacea, and phocidea, this great field of Nature has been but little ex- 
plored by the naturalist, leaving in the true fishes vast numbers to be yet added 
to the stores of science and human utility. Many of the fishes and shells are not 
only very curious but of extraordinary beauty, and highly prized by connoisseurs. 

Mr. Hugh Cumming, the celebrated conchologist of London, who died some 
three years ago, made a voyage about 1830 to Lower California from Valparaiso, 
for the special purpose of studying its mollusca, and some writers have affirmed 
that the California shells are the great feature of his collection, said to be the 
largest and best preserved in the whole world. M. Regien, a French resident of 
Mazatlan, some years after Cumming, also made a splendid collection of shells 
of the gulf, of which extended scientific notices were made by the eminent Eng- 
lish conchologist, Philip Carpenter, in his contributions to the Smithsonian Li- 
.stitute in 1859-60. Li 1860-62, Mr. John Xantus, a naturalist of great ability 
and enterprise, who had served in many of the recent Government overland ex- 
plorations of rail and wagon roads, was employed by Professor Baclie, the direc- 
tor of the United States Coast Survey, to make observations on the tidal phenom- 
ena of the California seas below the parallel of Magdalena Bay. In connection 
Avith his investigations, he employed much time in natural history collections of 
the soutliern part of Lower California for the Smithsonian Institute, which num- 
bered over 100,000 specimens of difterent animals, plants, and minerals, of which 
some 30,000 were of fishes, shells, crustacea, sponges, star-fishes and corals ; 
about one-half of these specimens were entirely new to science. This was the 
largest collection ever made in the t;iuna and flora of those or any other parts 
of the peninsula explored by him, leaving out, as entirely unexamined by any 
one, iwo-thirds of the country to the north of 24°, and was duly forwarded to the 
Smithsonian Museum at Washington. Of the fishes he collected 800 distinct 
species ; of crustacea, such as crabs, etc., he collected 800 species ; of radiata or 
star-fishes, 40 species ; of shells, 4,000 species; of corals, 8 species, and of sponges, 
14 species; of these inhabitants of salt water, fully two-thirds are said 7iever to 
have been before examined or noted in science. It is therefore evident that the 
fisheries of this country are to become a world of wondi'ous wealth to its future 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 49 

inhabitants, of incalculable benefit to tlie laboring classes in reducing the cost of 
living, and rendering them independent of the cruel exactions of capital, or the 
fickle whirls of commercial prosperity or depressions. There can be no doubt, 
that the finest varieties of our edible oysters could be bred and cultivated tf 
supply all the Pacific domain forever, as doubtless could be done with the pearl 
oysters, as is the case in some parts of the Oriental world, and the same holds 
good with the cultivation of sponges, which is an extremely valuable business on 
the shores of the Grecian Archipelago. Tlie real tortoise-shell turtle is also found 
on both coasts of the peninsula, and the difterent species of the edible ti^rtle arc 
particularly abundant, and, in many places, so easy of access as to be had for 
the trouble of capture, and are frequently brought to San Francisco. 

THE REDUCTION AND SETTLEMENT OF THE INTERIOR OP THE GREAT AMERICAN 

PENINSULA FROM 1700 TO 1800 THE DATES AND FOUNDATIONS OF THK 

JESUIT, FRANCISCAN, AND DOMINICAN MISSIONS. 

The Catholic missionary histories of the civilizations, foundations, and reduc- 
tions of the diff'erent Indian districts of Lower California to the parallels of 
Magdalena Bay, have been so often printed, summarized, and related, for the last 
150 years, and are so well known, that the nature of our work requires no more 
than filling up the vacuum between 25° and 32°, which is unknown in English, and 
putting all such matters in condensed briefs, as their detailed narration would 
fill an immense and cumbersome volume foreign io the intent of this work. The 
principal Spanish authorities are those by the Jesuit Fathers Venegas in 1757, 
Clavigero in 1789, and Begert in 1772, who were neither of them, however, 
California Jesuits, and the book of the Dominican friars, published at Valencia, 
in Spain, iu 1794; these last two authors served in the California missions, and 
no other original works, from personal observation of the country, have been 
compiled si7ice the 1794 volume, which relates the founding of the seven Do- 
minican mission districts on the Pacific, below San Diego, and to a short dis- 
tance north of the bay of Viscaino. Though these four publications are very 
valuable as original chronicles or annals, they are crowded with errors of fact 
and errors of typography, and mostly devoted to missionary labors ; these errors 
are extremely confusing and contradictory to the reader and honest inquirer, 
and all who have heretofore used or quoted them in English, French, German, 
and Spanish have, without sifting or aritical inquiry, passed their serious faults 
on to the present generation, and making confusion worse confounded, as may 
b3 seen in Forbes, Farnham, and others. The eftorts of the eminent Jesuits 
Kino, Salvatierra, Piccolo, and Ugarte, for the ten years before 1700, were 
merely preliminary, the legal license and commission for Christianizing -the 
country, given by the Conde de Montezuma, Viceroy of Mexico, to Kino and 
Salvatierra, being dated only on the 6th of February, 1697, after the struggles 
of several years. So that the most proper and best period to commence the his- 
tory of the interior districts of Old California is the year 1700. We now give as 
complete a schedule of the Missions of Lower California as can be obtained from 
the best accounts : 

1. The mission of Nuestra Seiiora de Loreto was founded by Father Jose 
Marie Salvatierra, in October, 1697, in latitude 25° 30'. 

2. Mission of Dolores del Sur, or named at first San Juan Bautista de Mali- 
bat, founded by Father Salvatierra, in January, 1699, in latitude 24° 30'. 

3. Mission of, San Francisco Xavier de Vigge, founded by Father Francisco 
M. Piccoli, in March, 1699, in latitude 25° 30'. 

4. The Mission of Santa Rosalia de Moleje, founded by Father Juan M. Ba- 
sualda, in 1705, in latitude 26° 50', 

The mission of San Luis Gonzaga, founded by Father Juan Ugarte, in 1712, 
in latitude 25°. This mission was made not far from the bay of Magdalena, on 



50 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

the borders of which was one of its Indian villages with a chapel. It seems to 
have been abandoned shortly after 1745, and was not m the status of a mission 
in 1767. 

5. San Jose Commondn, founded by Father Julian de Mayorga, in 1708, in 
latitude 26°. 

6. La Purisuna Concepcion, founded by Father Nicolas Tamaral, in 1718, 
in latitude 26°. 

7. Mission Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe, founded by Fathers Juan Ugarte 
and Everhard Helen, in 1721, in latitude 27°. 

8. Mission of San Ignacio de Kadakaman, founded by Father Juan B. Lu- 
yando, in 1728, in latitude 28°. 

9. Mission of N. S. de Dolores del Norte, in lat. 29°, made as an adjunct to 
San Ignacio, but a few years afterward seems to have been absorbed into this 
last and abandoned, as were two or three pioneer foundations of the same kind, 
before 1740, as those of Santiago, La Paz, Santa Rosa, and Magdalena. 

10. Mission of San Jose del Cabo, founded by Father Nicolas Tamaral, in 
1730, in latitude 23°. 

11. Mission of Todos Santos, founded as an adjunct to San Jose, about the 
year 1737, and formerly called Santa Rosa, in latitude 23°. 

12. Mission of Santa Gertrudis, founded by Father Fernando Consag, in 
1751, in latitude 29°. 

13. Mission of San Francisco Borja (pronounced Boreas), founded by Padre 
Winceslao Link in 1762, in latitude 30° [?]. 

14. Mission of Santa Maria, in the vicinity of the bay of Los Angeles of the 
Gulf, founded by Father Victoriano Arnes in 1767, in latitude 81°. 

These 14 missions were all founded by the Jesuits, as given for 1745 in 
Venegas's book of 1757, and in Clavijero's work of 1790, made up from the 
latest advices, prior to the expulsion of the order from the peninsula, on the 
25th June, 1767, but those of Dolores and Gnadalupe were abandoned before 
1794. Fifteen Jesuit priests and one lay-brother died in California before 1767, 
and 15 priests and one lay-brother formed the numbers which left in 1767. 
The Jesuits were succeeded in their missions by 16 Franciscan friars from the 
College of San Fernando, of Mexico City, under Father Junipero Serra, who 
arrived at Loretto on the 1st of April, 1768, and these establishments continued 
xmder their care until May, 1774, five years after Father Junipero left, in 1769, 
for Alta California, when the peninsular missions were delivered up to the Do- 
minican friars, from the College of Santiago of Mexico City, by Father Francisco 
Palou, who afterward founded the mission of Dolores, near San Francisco 
City, and wrote the well-known biography of Junipero Serra, in 1786. 

15. The next mission founded was that of San Fernando Villacatta, by 
Father Junipero Serra in 1769, in latitude 31°, and 60 leagues nowth from San 
Fernando Borga. 

The Dominicans founded the next seven missions to the Alta California 
ft-ontier, to wit : 

16. The mission of La Rosario, near the bay of Los Virgenes on the Pacific, 
was founded in 1774, in latitude 30° 25', about 50 miles northwest from San 
Fernando Villacatta, 

17. The mission of Santo Domingo, near San Quintin Bay, and 20 leagues 
north from Rosario, was founded in 1775, in latitude 30° 52'. 

18. The mission of San Vicente Ferrer, 20 leagues north from San Domin- 
go, Avas founded in 1780, in latitude 31° 30'. 

19. The mission of Santo Tomas, near the bay of Todos Santos, the next 
above San Vicente, was founded in 1790, in latitude 31° 52' (the Indians be- 
ing very troublesome to manage), about 40 miles above San Vicente. 

20. The mission of San Pedro Martyr, about 40 miles east of Santo Tomas, 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFOENIA. 51 

in the mountains, was founded on the 28tli May, 1794, by Father Cayetano 
Pallos, in latitude 31° 50'. 

21. The mission of San Miguel of the frontiers, some 30 miles south of San 
Diego, was founded in 1782 (as appears from the Alta California archives), by 
Fatiiers Tomas Valdellon and Miguel Lopez, and is in about latitude 32° 10'. 

22. The mission of Santa Catalina de los Yumas, about 50 miles east from 
Santo Tomas in the mountains, was founded by Father Jose Lorient on the 
18th May, 1797, in about latitude 31° 20'. Santa Catalina was the last mis- 
sion founded in Lower California. 

At the time of the date of the Dominican friars book, in 1794 (who was 
then serving at Santo Tomas and Sati Miguel, as expressed therein), the mis- 
sions of Santiago, Dolores, and San Luis Gonzaga, noted by Clavijero, as exist- 
ing in 1767, were closed as mission centres or capitals, by order of the Govern- 
ment in Mexico, from the ravages of the small-pox and other diseases, and from 
their unmanageable Indians ; this change has been the cause of many blunders 
by Lower California writei's in the public journals since 1846. 

The mission establishments of the peninsula were all secularized, as was the case 
with those of Alta California, by the celebrated decree of the Mexican Congress 
of 1833. From frequent revolutions in the peninsula and the central Government, 
from the poverty and scarce populations, and its being before 1848 out of the 
route of general commerce, and from the entire extinction of the Jesuit mission 
Indians before 1825, the priests either died or gradually retired from the coun- 
try, and were seldom replaced ; so that at the American occupation in 1847-43 
not more than three were left in the country, one of whom. Father Ignacio 
Ramirez Arrellanes, was superior of the missions, and in October, 1848, was a 
refugee, and left with the Americans for Monterey, where he served as curate 
of that town till 1854, when he left for Mexico ; he was also one of the chap- 
lains of the Monterey Constitutional Convention of 1849, the other being the 
Rev. Mr. Willey, a Protestant clergyman, now of Oakland. 

The missions of the Californias to carry out the idea of Kino, were attempt- 
ed to be connected and aided from Mexico, by the establishment, between 
1767 and 1781, of the two Franciscan missions, called Concepcion and San 
Pedro-Pablo, nine miles apart, on the west bank of the Colorado, near the 
present Fort Yuma, detailed more at large in an ensuing chapter, but these 
were destroyed by the Yumas in 1782. The Jesuits also established a mission 
outpost, about 1700, called San Dionisio, on the northern bank of the Gila, 
not far from its junction, and also another on the southern bank of the Gila, 
several leagues farther east, called San Pablo. The recent writers on the sites 
of these missions greatly confuse one with another, and mix the ancient accounts 
up terribly. 

In 1794 there were 17 missions in existence, under the Dominicans, that 
of Santa Catahna, in 1797, being the last one founded, and after the most 
recent accounts had appeared. When the author of the 1794 book left the 
peninsula, in 1787, there were serving in these 17 missions 24 Dominican 
priests, and of Indian converts 1,099 famiUes, including 3,015 people of all 
sexes and ages, and only six soldiers ; this does not embaace the white and 
mixed races of the towns of La Paz, Loreto, and San Jose del Cabo. 
In the 14 missions left by the Jesuits, there were, then, in 1767, the number 
of 7,495 Indians of all ages and sexes. In 1840-'42, when Dufiot de Mofras 
wa^travelling in California, he states that there were 3,766 inhabitants in all 
the mission capitals, and including Loreto, La Paz, and San Jose del Cabo 
towns : two-thirds of these, however, were Mexicans and Lower Californians, 
of white and mixed blood. In the seven Dominican missions, between San 
Diego and Rosario, at that time, there were about 1,300 people, and some 
Lower Calif3rnian informants say one-half or even two-thirds of these were 
Indians, the rest being mestizoes, not mission converts. Before 1825, as we 



52 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

have been informed, every one of the Jesuit converts had entirely disappeared 
from their old missions by death, in the course of nature, or by the wastings of 
disease from syphilis, small-pox, measles, etc. : that is, 7,495 aborigines had 
entirely disappeared from off the earth in 58 years. Venegas does not state 
Avhat was the number of convents in 1745, the last accounts and dates in his 
history of 1757. At the date of 1867, accepting the statements of cor- 
respondents from the peninsula in the San Francisco newspapers, there do 
not remain 500 Indians in the Dominican or northern ex-missions above Vis- 
caino Bay, and none at all between the Viscaino Bay parallels and Cape San 
Lucas — the other Indian tribes, unconverted, loosely estimated at present at 
about 2,000 souls, being those found below the American frontier line to the 
mouth of the Gila, embraced in the country in the lower valley, to the west of 
the Colorado, and so following down on the gulf shores until even to the Canal 
de Ballenas, and port of Los Angeles. The most of these are the well-known 
Cocopas, and their affiliating tribes, and mixed Avith Yumas. Dialects of the 
Yuma extended from Santa Catahna, all the way from San Miguel to La Eo- 
sario, and dialects of this language extended up the coast as far as San Luis 
Key, north of San Diego. 

TRAVELLING DISTANCES, BY THE OLD SPANISH MISSION ROAD, FROM CAPE SAN 

LUCAS TO SAN DIEGO. 

The distance, as travelled on mules, from the Cape to San Diego, may be 
estimated from the map, day by day, in English miles, as follows, from mis- 
sion to mission, which takes up the whole length of the peninsula. These 
figures are only approximates : 

1. From San Jose del Cabo to Todos Santos mission to the northwest on 
the Pacific, 70 miles ; from San Jose to Real de San Antonio, near the gulf, 40 
miles ; from San Antonio Real (or mining village), to the town of La Paz, on the 
bay of La Paz, 20 miles. 

2. From La Paz to Dolores del Sur, 90 miles. 

3. From Dolores del Sur to San Luis Gonzaga, 45 miles. 

4. From Dolores to Loreto, 90 miles, by the long gulf road. 

5. From Loreto to !^an Jose Comondn, going west, 40 miles. 

6. From San Jose Comondu to San Francisco Xavier, going to the south, 
30 miles. 

7. From San Jose Comondu to Purisima, 40 miles. 

. 8. From Loretto to Moleje, by the turns of the gulf coast road, 90 miles. 

9. From Purisima to San Ignacio Kada Kaman (or country of sedge 
brooks), 110 miles, and which is about 20 miles from the Pacific; San Ignacio 
is about 110 miles, by the road northwest of Moleje. 

10. From San Ignacio to mission Santa Gertrudis, going northeast, it is 40 
miles. 

11. From Santa Gertrudis to San Francisco Borja mission, going north, it 
is 70 miles. 

12. From San Francisco Borja (or Boreas), to Santa Maria mission, going 
north, it is 75 miles ; here the mountains are very high and rugged. 

X3. From Santa Maria to San Fernando Villieatti mission, in the mountains, 
it is 56 miles. 

14. From San Fernando, in the mountains, going north by west, to the mis- 
sion of Rosario, near the ocean, is 50 miles. 

15. From Rosario along the sea-coast to Santo Domingo mission, it is 60 
miles. 

16. From Santo Domingo to San Vicente mission, by the coast, it is 50 
miles. Both these missions are in the vicinities of Virgin and San Quiutin 
Bays. 



EXPLORATION OF I,OWER CALIFORNIA. 53 

17. From San Vicente to San Pedro Martyr, going northeast into the 
mountains, it is about 40 miles. 

18. From San Vicente, along the coast of Santo Tomas, it is 30 miles; 
Santo Tomas is near Todos Santos Ba}'. 

19. From Santo Tomas, to the last mission, San Miguel, along the coast, it is 
about 50 miles, wbicli brings the traveller to within about 40 miles of San 
Diego Bay. 

20. From Santo Tomas to Santa Catalina, going to the east via San Pedro 
Martyr, it is about VO miles ; Santa Catalina being only some 60 miles from 
the Colorado River, at the head of the gulf. 

From Rosario to San Diego, since 1840, private ranches for cattle and 
sheep have been established at distances varying from 5 to 20 miles apart. 
This part of the coast has become much better known than formerly from the 
letters of Mr. R. K. Porter (who resided there several years, between 1858 and 
1863), which were published in the San Francisco Bulletin. The distances we 
use are only approximate, and calculated from travellers' reports, and from the 
maps of 1845 to 1864; if not exact, they will answer very well to travel from 
mission to mission, and not greatly lead the voyager astray. 

CHAPTER X. 

THE PAST AND PRESENT POPULATION OF OLD CALIFORNIA. 

La Perouse, when at Monterey, in 1786, was informed by the Governor 
of the two Californias that there were then, in the 15 mission districts of the 
peninsula, 4,000 Indians, and 54 Presidio soldiers. In Humboldt's " New Spain " 
he states that, in 1802, there were not more 5,000 Indians and others, and 
that the barbarous tribes to the north numbered about 4,000 more, or 9,000 
in all. From the best public authorities, Alexander Forbes says there were in 
1837 not over 15,000 inhabitants of all hinds. Loretto contained 300 souls, 
while La Paz with the Real de San Antonio contained 2,000 souls. In 1848 
tbe village of San Jose del Cabo contained some 200 people. In 1842 the 
Mexican Congress admitted two delegates from the two Californias on a basis 
of 33,439 population, 12,000 of which were acknowledged as belonging to the 
peninsula. At the time of the American occupation of 1847-'48, it was also 
admitted as numbering about 12,000 souls. The seven Dominican missions of 
the north sea coast are said to have contained 5,000 Indians in those estab- 
lishments in the year 1800. 

When the American occupation ended, their vessels took away some 500 
political refugees, who arrived in the ditferent vessels-of-war at Monterey, in 
October, 1848, from the peninsular ports below Loreto. After these left, and 
in the fall of 1848, commenced a voluntary emigration from the peninsula to 
dig gold in the new placeres of Alta California, which Avas estimated to take 
oft' some 1,200 of the best classes of the population, about one-half of Avhom 
found their way back before 1855. It is estimated, in 1867, that there are 
about 26,000 people in the country from San Diego to San Lucas, about 1,000 
of whom are foreigners, as miners, whalemen, traders, etc., including French, 
English, German, and American, two-thirds of whom are Americans ; the most 
of them arrived since 1855. No accurate account of the population has ever 
been published or even ascertained since its foundation ; the old Spanish notices 
up to 1802 being merely confined to the mission colonies, or settlements. 

THE INDIAN TRIBES AND LANGUAGES OF THE PENINSULA 

All the Indian tribes of the peninsula seem to be affiliated with the Yuinas 
of the Colorado, and with the Coras below La Paz. If their languages are 



54 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

truly distinct, tlien it would appear, from the testimony of different missionary 
writers indicated in this summary, that they have mixed and remixed one with 
the other ; the Cochiemies, above Loreto, throughout the north, speak more or 
less different dialects of the Yunia — the farther north, the more perfect the 
Yuma. The Jesuit writers declare that different tribes pronounce so differently 
the same idiom, as to appear to a stranger as distinct languages. All the Indians 
of the missions above Santa Gertrudis are undoubtedly Yuma in their family 
relations. The entire numbers of them could never have exceeded 25,000 be- 
fore civilization was commenced, say in 1*700, from the cape to the Colorado, as 
s shown from the siuall numbers gathered into the different missions from time 
to time, and in no case do they differ in intellect, habits, customs, dress, imple- 
ments of war, or hunting, traditions, or appearances from the well-known Dig- 
ger Indians of Alta California, and undoubtedly belong to the same race or 
family. Going from the north, we may locate them as follows : on the Colora- 
do bottoms were the Cocopahs, the southern gulf tribes of which Coixsag (1V46) 
calls Bagiopas, Hebonumas, Quigyumas, Cuculutes, and the Alcheduraas. Those 
of Santa Catalina, San Pedro Martyr, and San Miguel, and Santo Tomas, such 
as the Gueymuras, and Gimiels, were nearly pure Yumas, as were those of our 
San Diego. From Santo Tomas to San Vicente, they were termed leas ; from 
this last, including San Domingo, Rosario, and San Fernando, the Uchitas 
roamed, mixed with their affilees, known to the missionaries as the Vintacottas 
and Vilicatas. Between San Fernando and Moleje were the Limonies, divided 
(going from the north), into the Cagnaguets, Adacs, and Kadakamans. From 
Moleje to Loreto were the purer Cochiemies, or Guaicuris, or Vicuras, whom 
the Jesuits assert were of the same language as the Limonies. From Loretto 
to the parcllels of Magdalena Bay Avere the Monquies and Edues, and from these 
last to the cape, Pericues and Coras. The first Avho reduced the language to 
writing, in catechism, etc., was Father Copart, who was with Kino, in 1697, at 
the time of Admiral Otondo's expedition. The most copious Avriter was Father 
Begert (of 1*707), on the Cochiemies or Waicura, which was only a meagre 
grannuatical analysis and religious explanations of the language, contained in 
three or four pages, as detailed in the Smithsonian Report of 1864, by Mr. 
Charles Rau, of New York. No systematic grammar or dictionary of the 
peninsular languages is known in philological history. Francisco Pimentel, 
the famous Indian philologist of Mexico, compared, in 1862, a Cora vocabulary 
of the vicinities of Cape San Lucas, Avith one of the Cora tribes of the Nayarites 
clans of Sinaloa and Jalisco, but they shoAV no analogy or likeness Avhatsoever 
to each other, nor to any Mexican dialect or language. 

THE POLITICAL CHANGES AND STATUS — THE COUNTRY DIVIDED INTO MUNICIPALI- 
TIES AFTER 1859. 

After 1767 the viceroy placed the administration of the government under 
the comandante of the Presidio troops, the capital being at Loreto, and that 
officer acquiring the name of governor. In 1775 the governor, Avho Avas then 
Philip de Neve, Avas ordered to remove his residence to Monterey, which became 
the capital of the tAvo Californias. 

Up to the year 1821 Lower California remained under the Viceregal Govern- 
ment of Mexico, but on the assumption of the Independent Government under 
Iturbide, Avith Alta California, it acknowledged the supremacy of the patriots. 
After 1830 it was constituted into a separate teriitory, and allowed one delegate 
to the National Congress of Mexico, the territory of Alta California being al- 
lowed the same. The military and civil officers for several years after 1830 
seemed to be under the orders of the Monterey chiefs, but they gradually di- 
verged into independent action from the immense distances intervening and 
the constant revolutions occurring. Indeed, after 1825 Lower California Avas 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 55 

troubled very little by the Mexican OficiaUdad from its poverty and the docility 
of the people. The succession of political chiefs is not set forth in any publica- 
tion. This state of things prevailed down to the declaration of war between 
Mexico and the United States in 1846. In 1847 the naval forces of the United 
States, under Commodores Shubrick and Jones, captured the ports of Guaymas, 
Mazatlan, and of La Paz and San Jose del Cabo of the peninsula, the flag "being 
raised in Lower California by Lieutenant-Colonel Henry S. Burton, of the army, 
and Captain T. Bailey, of the navy, on the 28th July, 1847. Several compa- 
nies of Stevenson's regiment of New York Volunteers were stationed in ditter- 
ent parts of the country, and generally the people readily submitted to the new 
powers, and so continued until the American evacuation in the early part of the 
fall of 1848, when all warlike material was removed to Monterey, the American 
fleet bringing several hundred refugees "who had compromised themselves with 
the conquerors, among whom were Governor Palacios and Padre Ramirez. 

After 1849 a number of the American volunteers returned to Lower Cali- 
fornia, and since 1860 several hundreds of our countrymen have emigrated 
there. Since 1850 the country has been in a continual turmoil of petty i-evolu- 
tions, and governor succeeded governor, or revolutionary chief, every twelve 
months, of whom it is almost impossible to make even a list. Under the Co- 
monfort Government of 1857, General Jose Castro, of Monterey, was made mili- 
tary commandant of the northern frontiers, which governed the northern dis- 
tricts above the bay of Viscaino. The revolution imposed in Mexico between 
the Republican Government of Juarez and the Lnperial assumption of govern- 
ment by Maximilian and the French did not extend to the peninsula, nor did 
the invading forces attempt any changes by armed operations there between 
1862 and 1867. A full ofhcial account of the American occupation of 1847-48 
may be found in the documents accompanying the messages of Presidents Polk 
and Taylor, published between 1848 to 1850. Since 1855 an American consul 
has generally resided at La Paz, but none, we believe, of any other nation. 

Since the year 1863 a regular monthlv line of steamers plies between San 
Francisco and the Mexican coast ports as far as San Bias, touching at La Paz 
and San Jose del Cabo, and bringing Lower California into steam connection 
from British Columbia to Acapulco and Panama, and soon to Chili, which is 
having an important influence on the political, social, and commercial affairs of 
the country. Li February, 1867, a steamship company was organized in San 
Francisco to connect all the settled gulf ports of Lower California, which will 
greatly stimulate commerce, mining, and emigration. The several incorporated 
railroad companies to run through the southern counties of the State of Cali- 
fornia to the Colorado valley will also have, within the next 10 years, important 
effects on the destinies of the country. The same may be said of those pro- 
posed from the valley of the Rio Grande to the port of Guaymas, which will 
doubtless be accomplished before 20 years have elapsed. 

The changes growing out of the new constitution of Comonfort's revolu- 
tion, 1856-58, and continued by that of Juarez up to 1861, caused the various 
portions of Old California to be politically and judicially divided into seven 
municipalities or jurisdictions. Going from San 13iego to the south, these are 
named as follows, and each having an alcalde, or juez del distrito, as judicial 
heads : 

1. Municipalidad of Santo Tomas, from the frontier to a short distance of 
the njission of San Vicente, and including the land from ocean to gulf; capi- 
tal. Mission Santo Tomas. 

2. Municipalidad of San Antonio, from a little below San Vicente over to 
the gulf above San Felipe Jesus Bay ; its southern parallel crossing Cedros 
Island ; capital. La Rosario Mission. 

3. Municipalidad of Molejc, from the parallel of Cedros Island to near the 
mission of Purisima ; capitals, San Ignacio and Moleje Missions. 



56 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

4. Muiucipalidad of Comondu, from Purisima parallel to the northern paral- 
lels of the bay of Magdalena ; capital, Mission San Jose Comondu. 

Each of these four jurisdictions is at such an inconvenient distance from 
another's centres as to be from 100 to 150 miles apart by the line of the 
road. 

5. Municipalidad ofTodos Santos, capital at Todos Santos Mission; and 

6. Municipalidad of La Paz, capital, town of La Paz, are divided long-itudi- 
nally from each other, but are bounded north and south by similar parallels, 

7. The last municipalidad is that of San Jose, which covers the remaining 
territory to Cape San Lucas, with its capital at the pueblo of San Jose del Cabo. 
These divisions were first inserted on De Fleury's map of 1864. 

When the Dominicans assumed the entire control of the missions from the 
Franciscans, in 1774, all the country below the bay of San Diego to Cape San 
Lucas began to be termed politically and religiously, in official documents, as 
California Antigua, or Vieja, and all above San Diego Bay as California Nueva. 
About that time also, or about 1770, the viceroy made the military coman- 
dante of the peninsula a lieutenant-colonel, acting as political chief, Avith head- 
quarters or capital at Loreto ; but in 1775 the capital of the two Californias 
was removed to Monterey, to whom the officer at Loreto reported until the 
year 1822, on the final separation of Mexico from Spain. This system was not 
entirely altered till several years afterward, or about the last of Figueroa's term, 
or say 1835. 

After 1835 the peninsular chiefs began to report to the head-government of 
Mexico, and dropped official reporting to the Monterey governor. But such 
was the mixed-up state of things in the far-off" Californias before 1846, that the 
greatest confusion exists in their political affairs and archives. Since the Ameri- 
can evacuation of 1848, the coimtry has been placed under a general of the 
Mexican army, as political and military chief, with his capital generally at La 
Paz ; sometimes at San Antonio Real, or other places. 

THE TRUE AND THE APPROXIMATE LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES OF LOWER CALI- 
FORNIA POSITIONS, COMMENCINa AT THE MOUTH OF THE COLORADO RIVER. 

The most reliable instrumental and astronomical positions in the peninsula 
have been taken by American officers in Ives's Colorado expedition of 1858, 
and contained in his celebrated survey, and is probably the most valuable and 
best prepared memorial yet given on any district of the continent of North 
America. The other positions narrated below are from Findley and other Eng- 
lish and French works noted in our Summary, and one locality from Weller's 
Boundary Monument of 1850, but only a few appear to have been taken from 
observatories and instruments established or set up on the solid land. For in- 
stance, the positions of Vancouver, Belcher, and Kellett are often stated, or to 
be inferred, as taken from aboard ship at anchor, which, of course, renders ob- 
servations liable to greater error. The latitudes and longitudes of the Jesuit 
and other Spanish observers are only approximate, and, even when given mathe- 
matically, Avere by the old-fashioned instruments ante 1820, and are consequently 
of little practical use. Commencing at the Colorado, we shall enumerate going 
south on the coasts of Lower California : 

N. Latitude. Lonsritude 

1. Eobinson's Landing, ten miles from the mouth of the W- of Greenwich. 

river, is in 31° 49' 21" 8 114° 51' 15" 

2. The initial point of the boundary between Upper and 

Lower California at the monument near the sea- 
shore, erected by Weller's Commission of Bound- 
ary Survey in 1S50, one marine league south of the 
southernmost point of San Diego Bay and opposite 
the Coronados Island, is in 32° 81' 58" 46 117° 06' 11" 12 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 57 

N. Latitude. Lonsitucle. 

(as stated in Davidson's " Const Directory of the W. of Greenwich. 
United States Pacific Coast of 1858," as deter- 
mined by coast survey shore observations.) 

3. Angel Guardian Island, south point 29= 06' 112° 52' 

4. Cape San Gabriel 28" 36' 112° 31' 

5. Molcje Village, in the bay of same name 26° 52' 112° 29' 

6. Point Concepcion, farther south 26° 57' 112° 04' 

1. Town of Loretto 26° 14| 111° 30^ 

8. Carmen Island, east point 26° 10' 111° 02' 

9. Catalina, or Catalan Island, north point 25° 41' 110° 47' 

10. Ceralvo Island, north end 24° 23' 109° 45' 

11. San Jose del Cabo, mission (land observation) 23° 03' 30" 109° 41' 

12. Cape San Lucas (Belcher, 1839, land observation). .. 22° 52' 109° 53' 

San Bernabe Bay or Porto Seguro, or Pueblito 
del Cabo, is only a few mile's just inside to north- 
east of Cape San Lucas. 
Going from San Lucas up the Pacific Coaat. 

13. Mesas, or 'Table-Lands, of Narvaez 23° 56' 110° 

14. Gulf of Magdalena, at Delgado Point (land observa- 

tion) 38° 24' 18" 112° 06' 21" 

15. Cape Lazaro (1,300 feet high) 24° 44' 50" 112° 16' 0" 

16. Farallones of the Alijos Rocks, some 140 miles from 

the continent (Du Petit Thouars, 1838) 24° 51' 115° 47' 

17. Point Abreojos 26° 42' 113° 34' 

18. Ascencion Island 27° 08' 114° 18' 

19. Sau Bartolome or Turtle Bay (Belcher, land ob- 

servation) 27° 39' 50" 114° 51' 20" 

20. Cedros Island (bay inside eastern end, Kellett, 1846, 

land observation) 28° 03' 115° 11' 

21. San Benito Islets, west end 28" 12' 115° 46' 

22. Santa Marina Point, or Santa Maria (Kellett) 28° 55' 114° 31' 

23. San Geronimo Island (Kellett) 29° 48' 115° 47' 

24. Port San Quintin (west point, Belcher) 30° 21' 30" 115° 56' 33" 

25. Point Zuniga (Vancouver, 1792, ship observation). . . 30° 30' 115° 58' 

26. Cenizas Island, northwest point (Vancouver) 30° 32' 116° 02' 

27. San Martin Island (Kellett) 30° 28' 115° 57' 

28. Todos Santos Bay, Pt. Grajero (Vancouver) 31° 44' 116° 46' 

29. Boundary Monument, opposite Coronados Islands, 

which are seven miles off shore (Davidson, 1858).. 32° 31' 58" 46 117° 06' 11" 12 

The liydro2:rapliic points on the coast from San Diego to the northern 
houndixry of Washington Territory were more carefully and exactly defined by 
the United States Coast Survey than ever before, and arc contained in David- 
son's " Directory " before mentioned. 

In all these twenty-nine positions only eleven were made on land from fixed 
ohservatories, while the others are from shipboard and are unreliable, though 
sufliciently and approximately correct to be of practical use to mariners. 

THE CLIMATE AND COUNTRY OF THE CALIFORNIA PENINSULA RAINS WITHOUT 

CLOUDS. 

The climate of the country between the boundary and Magdalena Bay is one 
of the most delightful, salubrious, and eqnable on the face of the globe, and, if 
settled, would be among the most accessible and acceptable sanitariums in the 
world, and is admirably adapted to raising many of the fruits of the torrid zone, 
and all of those of the Mediterranean basin as well as all the vegetables and 
cereals of Alta California; and all agree that they are of much better quality than 
those raised above San Diego. On the gulf shore, under the same parallels, it 
is not only much hotter, but is subject in the summer and fiill months to terrible 
hurricanes and water-spouts ; but these do not occur every year, and practised 
mariners know how to avoid and escape from them to the ports close by with 
little difliculty. In the winter months, after the first rains of November to May, 
the transparency and delightful effects of the cooled atmosphere are said to be 



58 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

so exhilarating as to be unequalled in the Avorld : the moonlights are as brilliant 
as those of Arabia Felix and Palestine, and good eyes can read print with ease 
from the light of the moon; the earliest notices since 1539 to 1867 remark these 
facts. . 

A beautiful phenomenon is experienced in the peninsular meteorologies which 
is felt on land and on sea, particularly on the gulf coasts, and we believe is known 
in no other country. This is the fall of rains in the summer and autumn 
when the sky is without clouds and the atmosphere perfectly serene. Much 
has been wa-itten on this by various eminent savants, and which, as far as we are 
aware, is not accounted for. But may it not be the showers falling from those 
immense water-spouts or cloud-bursts of which frequent examples occur in the 
gulf shores, through the Colorado country, and below the Santa Barbara Chan- 
tiel, and as high north as the great basin of Washoe and Utah, of which five or 
six recorded examples have occurred since 1861 ? May not these showers, taken 
up by the whirlwinds generated by the cloud-bursts, sweep off the falling waters 
far from their centres, and, with the force of the terrific winds, carry the rams into 
perfectly limpid atmospheres, where they deposit their drops upon the earth ? 
This question may be propounded to scientific meteorologists. 

It must not be supposed that such a country is not sometimes scourged by 
disease; on the contrary, the warmer and oldest settled parts below Magdalena 
are often unhealthy in the summer and fall, but nothing like to other /ropical 
countries or even those of the Mexican coasts. The sun is terribly hot in these 
parts, but the air pure and dry, and the Lower Californians always boast of the 
salnbrity of their hotter latitudes now settled for IVO years, and hundreds of in- 
stances,' past and present, could be reported of longevities of from 100 to 110 
vears of ao-e. It possesses the healthiest tropical latitudes in the tvorld, because 
the winds from the ocean and gulf temper effectually the ardor of the summer 
suns ; health can be preserved there by prudence as in the best portions of Alta 
California. All the mountain districts of the peninsula possess a uniformly tem- 
perate and equable climate, preserving this quality in the shade even in July and 
August. 

The peninsula is a very steep, rugged, rocky country in the interior and on 
many districts of the coast; the shores in most parts are lined with heavy sand- 
dunes, and the Jesuit writers affirm that the land, both on the gulf and ocean coasts, 
was believed to be sensibly elevating before 1767. Lieutenant Ives, in 1858, as- 
sumes that the gulf bottom is also perceptibly rising for, say, 100 miles below the 
mouth of the Colorado. 

Several California observers suggest that the Gulf of California at one time 
extended up to the Sierra Nevadas, while, on the other hand, others think it can 
be proved that the mouth of the Colorado at one time opened not far from the 
parallel of Guaymas harbor; that is, its ancient entrance is nearly 200 miles south 
of its present one, and that it run .up to the north by prior or subsequent changes 
and rechanges to the Great Death Valley, north of the Mohave, near where are 
the present silver-mines of the Pahnaragat district of 1867. 

ITS CURIOUS FOSSILS AND VALUABLE MINERALS. 

The peninsula is said even to exceed the State of California in the extent of 
its fossil remains of shells, fish, mammalian animals, and even, as is suggested, fos- 
sil man. There are immense formations of fossil remains in the vicinities of 
Magdalena Bay, Lorcto, and Moleje, noticed by the Jesuit writers and by Belcher 
and others. 

Argentiferous galenas are very common above Moleje, and pure sulphur oc- 
curs in'^heavy deposits near the volcano vicinities, not far from the same old mis- 
sion. Copper ores abound in several localities between San Diego and Piosario, 
and two mines have been worked there ever since 1855, and copper ores are also 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 59 

said by the Jesuit writers to be very common on the northern gulf coasts and 
islands ; those of Ceralvo, San Jose, and Espiritu Islands beiuo- very rich and 
now well known. It is likely, when the business is well established, that the cop- 
per deposits of the peninsula will be very profitably worked, from the proximi- 
ties of all of them to harbors and ports, as in no other parts of the world are they 
so accessible to good seaports. Quicksilver ores are also said to be found near 
Santa Catalina Mission since 1858. The salinas of the ocean coasts from San 
Quintin to Magdalena are very numerous and plentiful, and the salt is easily 
gathered. The salt-mines of Carmen Island are said to be sufficiently extensive to 
supply the whole world, and large quantities of salt have been sent to San Francisco 
during the last ten years, as it is very dry, pure, and of the primest quality, and 
is taken out only a short distance from ship-anchorage. Before 1750 the Jesuits 
offered to the viceroy to entirely support the California missions, if this deposit 
were granted to them by the King of Spain, but the offer was declined. For the 
last few years the Mexican Government has raised considerable revenues from 
farming out this salt-mine. All these salinas Avill add greatly to the resources 
of the country for the reduction of mineral ores and salting the product of the 
teeming fisheries of the coasts. 

Marble of excellent quality is found near La Paz and Loreto, and sulphate 
of lime or gypsum in large slabs, so transparent as to be used for window-lights. 
Immense beds of gigantic fossil oysters are found in many of the old settled dis- 
tricts, some of v/liich measure two feet in length and weigh 20 lbs., and have long 
been used for making bricklayers' lime. Between 1861 and 1864, some twenty 
mining companies were incorporated in San Francisco to work the silver-copper 
mineral deposits of the peninsula, particularly those called El Triunfo and San 
Antonio Real, below La Paz, and large amounts of money have been spent and 
successful progress made in three or four of them. The silver-mines near San 
Antonio were worked since 1748, and much metal obtained from them by very 
simple processes, amounting to something under a million of dollars. Deposits 
of impure carbonate of soda, or tequisquite, exist in several parts, and are in com- 
mon use. All kinds of building-stone are very accessible and abundant. 

One of the Jesuit missionaries, about 1765, found, near a locality of San Jo-- 
nacio Mission, called San Joaquin, the remains of a fossil animal, whose bones 
exactly resembled those of a human being: the dimensions of the skull, verte- 
bi-al and leg bones represented the remnants of a man over eleven feet high. 
Similar remains have been found in Tuolumne and Calaveras Counties in Cali- 
fornia State since 1860, which highly excited the attention of the learned world. 

It would seem, from all accounts, that the country offers one of the most in- 
viting fields in the world for the investigations of the mineralogist, geologist, 
and fossilologist. 

CHAPTER XI. 

MINERAL AVATEKS HOT SPRINGS THE CURIOUS VERMILION-COLORED CAUSTIC 

WATERS OF THE GULF-HEADS. 

Mineral springs of highly medicinal qualities, both warm and cold, are found 
in nearly every district of the country. Several boiling-hot springs are known 
on the gulf shores above San Felipe Jesus harbor. 

One of the most curious of these mineralized waters is found in numerous 
pools near the mouth of the Colorado, on the peninsular shores. It is in color 
vermilion-red, and of such a caustic quality as to rot the clothes of those who are 
incautious in meddling with it, and it produces quickly most irritable blisters on 
the skin, and even boils and swellings, as in the attacks of scurvy. It is un- 
doubtedly of volcanic origin, and contains large proportions probably of bromine, 
chlorine, and iodine, as silver ores of these powerful metalloids are often found' 
47 



60 SKETCH OP THE SETTLEMENT AND 

in the Sonora, Washoe, and Arizona mines, aad it is well known that bromine 
and iodine exist in unusually large proportions in the marine waters of the north- 
ern coast and of the Santa Barbara Channel. It has lately been discovered in 
France that an analysis of the upper waters of the Red Sea yielded bromine in 
such large quantities as to be easily obtained, when there is any great demaiid 
for the consumption of that powerful substance. In Padre Ugarte's expedition 
up to the Colorado entrances in 1728, and in that of .Padre Consag's in 1746, 
these caustic waters occasioned dangerous ulcers, blisters, and other sickness of 
their boats' crews, and greatly retarded the success of their explorations. All 
travellers and navigators should bear in mind the dangerous properties of these 
Avaters; they are well known by the American navigators to the Colorado and 
those who reside on the river below Fort Yuma, and are not to be trifled with. 
In some seasons it is hard to keep a ship clear of this water. 

SOME OF THE STRANGE BEASTS AND FISHES OF THE PENINSULAR WATERS MER- 
MAIDS AND DEVIL-FISHES GREAT STORES OF WHALES AND SEALS NORTH- 
PACIFIC WHALE-FISHERY IN" 1866. 

The waters of Lower California abound with some of the grandest and largest 
of marine vertebrata and mammalia. There are some ten species of whales, or the 
cetacea, among which is the sperm whale, Avhich, forty years ago, wqi'e numer- 
ous between the Santa Barbara Islands and Cape San Lucas, and made the for- 
tunes of hundreds of ships. There is a small species of cetaeea found between 
Moleje and the head of the gulf, which is said to yield a very superior quality 
of oil, that dries so quick as to be used in painting, and is equal to linseed-oil. The 
California whale, right whale, hump-backs, and several other varieties, are found 
mostly on the ocean coast, and since 1854 regular settlements of whalemen are 
made among the bays, islands, and harbors between Magdalena and San Diego 
(the centre of which is Magdalena Bay), who capture the cetaeea from shore, 
where the blubber is " tried out," and the whalebone cleansed and prepared for 
market. When sufficient material is accumulated, it is either sold to shore mer- 
chants or to visiting whale-ships, or it is shipped direct to San Francisco, which 
is the centre of all their operations, and from Avhence they receive their outfits 
and make their ultimate returns. In some years there are reported to have been 
not less than thirty different whaling and sealing camps below San Diego, aggre- 
gating some 2,000 men ; and as seals and the affiliative families are in the greatest 
abundance, cargoes are often prepared with great rapidity. Some five or six of 
these camps have become permanent establishments of ten years' standing, and 
many of the whalemen have married in the country and settled ashore in the 
vicinity of the camps, particularly in Magdalena Bay, All this business, with a 
stable and intelligent government, is capable of most profitable and even indefi- 
nite extension, and will greatly assist in the development of the country, 
especially as the whole ocean coast is fnll of port.s and bays, and particularly salu- 
brious, and supphes of edible fish, turtle, and shell-fish are abundant and easy to 
take. Great numbers ofjliese " 'longshore whalemen" are Portuguese mariners 
brought up in the American trade, and very steady, quiet, industrious men. The 
NewBedford journals of January, 1867, give the following data on the status of 
the whale-fisheries of the North Pacific for the year 1866. The total number of 
whale-ships belonging to the United States in 1866 was 311, measuring 7o,289 
tons' capacity ; of these, 281 belonged to the State of Massachusetts, the most 
of which 1 hailed fi-om New Bedford. 

In 1866 there were 106 vessels of this fleet employed in the North Pacific, 
who made a catch of 65,000 barrels of oil, or 1,950,000 gallons. As many as 
two-thirds of these vessels fished in the Arctic, Kodiak, and Okotsk Seas, above 
the parallels of 52°; while the remaining, or say 25 vessels, fished on the Lower 
fJalifornia and Mexico west coasts, and to the north of the Galapagos. This 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 61 

includes do 'longshore whaling ventures of the California coasts, having their 
centres in San Francisco. The amount of products in money value of the 'long- 
shore fisheries between San Francisco and Cape San Lucas may be estimated, 
including the catch of seal-oils, at sonie $800,000 per annum since 1862, and 
one-half of this pertains to Lower California. There are no means of getting at 
a proper account of these affairs, ours being an estimate from the most recent 
reports. 

One of the curious and interesting animals of the gulf waters is a species of 
dugong^ called by the Spaniards muUer and woman of the sea, and which almost 
answers to the sailor-myths of the mermaid. It is found all the way from near 
San Bias up to the islands of the Sal Si Puedes, and was first noticed by Gri- 
jalva, one of Cortez's California captair.s in 1532, and has been frequently men- 
tioned as seen and even caught from that time to the present. From the descrip- 
tions given, it appears never to exceed ten pounds in weight, eyes large and soft 
in expression, a grayish dull-white color for the upper body, breasts similar to 
those of a man or woman, head similar to a dog or sea otter, skin smooth and 
without scales or hair above the navel, and having the lower parts, or one-half of 
the body, like such a fish as the salmon, and covered with scales down to the end 
of the tail, which is of half-moon figure. The dimensions of this curious animal 
appear never to have exceeded three feet, at least of such as have been described 
as handled or closely observed, and they are so shy as rarely to have been 
taken. 

The three great beasts of the California seas are immense and ferocious 
sharks, or tiburones, thirty feet long, the terrible manta raya, devil-fish, or 
great ray, and the great octopods, or eight-armed cart-wheel-shaped squids, so 
famous in marine traditions. Some of the sharks of the upper gulf waters are 
said to be as large as middling-sized California whales, and to weigh over 1,000 
lbs. There are great numbers of them in certain parts, and they are exceedingly 
dangerous to pearl-divers, boatmen, and fishermen, both on the ocean coasts be- 
low Gedros Island and among the islands of the gulf. Great numbers of the 
different species of sharks abound in every bay and harbor, and there is no 
doubt the manufacture of shark-oil could be most profitably carried on. 

The manta raya is an immense brute, of great strength, cunning, and 
ferocity, and is more the terror of the pearl-divers than any other creature of 
the sea. It measures from nose to tail as much as 20 feet at maturity, nearly 
five-eighths of which consist of an immensely long and spinous covered tail; 
the animal has been found to weigh 1,000 lbs., and to require 60 men to lift it 
by tackles and blocks on board of a British man-of-war. The superior forward 
parts consist of immense thick blanket-like flaps, 12 feet across, and the nose is 
said to be armed with a beak or horny mandible. All the upper parts of the 
body are provided with hard knots and spines, and the hide is very rough, and 
thicker than that of a bull. The meat of this " beast of the sea" is said to be 
particularly good eating, and very white and juicy, and is much more compact 
than that of ordinary fish. The habit of the animal is to hover at the surface 
over the pearl-divers, obstructing the rays of the sun, and moving as the diver 
moves, and, when he is obliged to come up for breath, hugging him in its im- 
mense flaps until he is suftbcated, when the brute, with his formidable teeth and 
jaws, devours him with a gluttonous voracity. They are also found at the en- 
trances of the Mexican rivers, between Tehuantepec Bay and Mazatlan, where in 
some places they are very numerous, and dangerous to the boatmen and fisher- 
men, frequently attacking boats with their beak and flaps, and sometimes up- 
setting them. Many fishermen and pearl-divers have been killed by them. 

The eight-armed octapod, or great squid, shaped like some gigantic spider, 
inhabits the rocky holes and cavities of the sea-shore, particularly where, shel- 
tered by headlands and islets, the force of the surfs and swells is broken, and 
among the sea-weeds, and they can quietly watch for their prey. At all ages 



62 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

this beast is dangerous, but at maturity it attains an immense size, and is 
the fountain-head of whalemen's fish-yarns, and said to come up to the size 
of a 74-gun frigate, and can attack and throttle a sperm-whale. Its arms 
measure from 10 to 20 feet in length, tapering from three inches in diameter to 
the thickness of a man's finger. On the lower parts it is furnished with flat 
disks or suckers, as round as a dollar, every two or three inches apart ; the 
body is a spherical, pulpous, fiat mass, in the middle of which is a large bill or 
beak, shaped exactly like that of a vulture or a parrot. With these arms they 
seize, smother, and envelop their prey, and at leisure devour it with their 
sharp and formidable bills. The skin is as smooth and slippery as an eel's, and 
of a dark lead-color, and its greedy, round, red eyes express the ferocity of a de- 
mon, and is altogether an ugly, dangerous customer to get within a man's distance. 

Sword-fish, of immense sizes are also found in the peniiisular waters, which 
have been known to attack vessels and leave their shafts in its timbers. Anothei 
singular fish is the boeps, ochione, or bull's eye, which has only one large eye, 
set in the centre of the upper part of its body, of the size of a bullock's, 
and seems to be a species of sun-fish, from the descriptions given of it. It is 
described by Clavijero as some two pounds in weight, entirely fiat on the under 
parts, and elevated above, with a single eye set in the middle of the upper parts, 
and even when dead making an ugly, repulsive appearance. The boton is a 
curious fish, not well described, and the liver of which is said to contMn a viru- 
lent poison. 

Nearly every species and variety of edible fish found in the waters of the 
Mediterranean, or on the coasts of Europe, or the West Indies, and of Atlantic 
North America, or Chili, are found in Lower California in greater abundance 
than elsewhere, and which have been before touched on in this summary. Their 
numbers are not only incredible, but many of them are of extraordinary beauty 
and brilliancy of colors. The missionary and discovery writers bear invariable 
testimony to this feature of the animal life of California. 



THE SHELL-FISHERIES AULONES AND PEARLS CORALINES THE EDIBLE OYSTER. 

The family of JIaliotis, univalves, represented by the aulon (improperly termed 
abalone), or ear-shaped shells of Monterey port, number, as is said, over IS 
diflferent species or kinds on the coasts of Lower California. They are particu- 
larly abundant in the islands, and in and out of the bays and ports where rocky 
and not sandy formations abound. For the last ten years the northern aulon- 
fisheries above Santa Barbara depleting year by year, the Chinese fishermen 
have gathered large quantities of this excellent shell-fish, below Cedros Island, 
which, when dried, brings from $12 to $30 a quintal in the Chinese markets, 
and is considered a great delicacy. The demand for it is large and permanent. 
This shell-fish is much more abundant in the peninsular waters than in those of 
Alta California. Of later years a traffic has opened for the shipment of the 
shells to Europe and China, which are preferred by many manufacturers for 
ornamental purposes to those of the pearl oyster, or mother of pearl. 

The pearl oyster is also said to exist in two distinct species, and a third is 
thought to be the same as those met with among the Sal Si Puedes Islands. 
Pearl oysters arc not found everywhere on the coast, but intercalate at intervals, 
preferring well-sheltered bays or harbors where fresh water empties ; but this 
rule is not invariable. They are met with, for over 1,000 miles of shore line, be- 
tween Magdalena and around the cape, and all the way up the gulf north above 
Angel Guardian Island, and the missionary writers state that after hurric anes 
they are known to have been thrown up on the beaches by the cart-load. 
There are, doubtless, many extensive beds never fished or even discovered in 
these little-known seas, as is the habit of the oyster family, and there is every 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 63 

likelihood they could be cultivated and increased as are the oysteries of Long 
Island and the Potomac, or of France and England. 

The pearl-fisheries, which are always prosecuted near noon and in cloudless 
weather, are still pursued in the peninsular waters every year, and it is very 
likely the new diving-apparatus and machinery, getting into suchi common use 
in San Francisco and other large ports for submarine operations, would succeed 
admirably in facilitating not only the finding and working of them, but in haul- 
ing larger numbers to the surface. A New York company is now in operation 
in the pearl islands of the bay of Panama, witli a diving- apparatus, specially 
adapted to this business, which is stated, in January, 1867, to be in successful 
working, for account of which see page 75. It is to be borne in mind that the 
value of good pearls will make it always profitable to look for them, and a num- 
ber one size and lustre is worth still from $5,000 to $6,000, and even more, for 
single pearls. Ordinary pearls are always abundant every year, but extraordi- 
nary sizes and colors are very rare. The most splendid of the pearls in the 
Spanish regalia were brought from the gulf of California before Napoleon's in- 
A-^asion, and they had always been in high demand in Spain since the days of 
Cortez. An American minister, in 1 863, says that some of these pearls were as 
large as pigeons' eggs, and were among the most valuable jewels in the crown 
regalia. The common way of pearl-diving by men from open boats is of great 
antiquity, and is practised in Ceylon, Persia, among the Malayan Islands, and 
on the islands otFthe coasts of Venezuela and in Panama Bay, as well as in the 
gulf of California. As we have mentioned before, a California pearl-diving com- 
pany was instituted in London in 1825, during the great mining excitement of 
those times, the management of which was put under Lieutenant Hardy, who 
came out to Lower California afterward to prosecute the enterprise, but no re- 
liable accounts have reached us of how much profit resulted, and it has generally 
been considered an entire failure. Humboldt mentions that in 18Q2 a Mexican 
priest invented a diving-bell for the purpose of taking pearl oysters, which he 
experimented on in one of the lakes near Mexico City, over 7,000 feet above the 
sea, but nothing more ever came of it. The pearl oyster has been eagerly 
bunted in Lower California every year since the times of Cortez, and the early 
divers, even before his arrival, found them much easier than they did after 1750, 
and the Indians possessed great numbers of them, which they counted as 
money, and bung in strings, as to this day they preserve their common shell 
money ; the early traders got great bargains by exchanging trinkets and knives 
for valuable gems. After heavy storms in the season of 1740, immense banks 
of pearl oysters were thrown up by the waves, and completely paved many 
parts of the ocean coasts below and above Magdalena Bay. The Indians of the 
vicinities of the Mission of San Ignacio, then recently civihzed, knowing the esti- 
mation in which these were held by the Spaniards, brought large quantities of 
pearls from this sea-upheaval to the mission, and sold them to Manuel Oslo knd 
his fellow-soldiers for trifling values. With these treasures he procured his dis- 
charge, and, hastening to Sinaloa, purchased boats, supplies, and men, and in 
1742 was fortunate enough to fish up not less than 127 pounds' weight of pearls, 
and in 1744 the large amount of 275 pounds, all of which made Oslo the richest 
man in Lower California, and his descendants live there to this day. Tliis lucky 
armador de 2>erlas afterward commenced the first silver-mine near the Real 
de San Antonio, but he is said not to have made much money by his mining 
operations. The Jesuit writers say after 1750 the pearl-fishery was absolutely 
abandoned in the peninsular waters, but fliis is not so, as other Spanish writers 
state it was followed profitably at periods down-to 1812, and also after the inde- 
pendence in 1822, and down to the American occupation of 1847. 

Even since the epoch of gold, great hauls have been made, and only in 1857 
it was stated in the San Francisco journals, a lucky armador, or master pearl-diver, 
had taken, with his boats' crews, some three bushels of pearls, many of which 



Q4: SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

were very large and valuable. Antonio de Castillo, a Spanish settler, of the 
port of Chiametla, below Mazatlan, made a large fortune in pearl-diving, be- 
tween 1618 and 1625, and Captains Iturbi and Ortega about that time engaged 
in the business, and took some extra-fine pearls to Mexico City, one of which 
sold for $4,500, greatly stimulating the traffic. The seamen of Cavendish's ship, 
in 1587, of Woodes Rogers's, in l7ll, and of Shelvock's, in 1720, when at the 
cape, in exchange for common trinkets, procured many fine pearls from the 
California Indians, some of which afterward became famous in England, and 
had considerable influence in stimulating after Avest-coast adventures. Cali- 
fornia pearls of good quality have been in profitable demand in Mexico and 
Peru for the last 300 yeai's, and there is no more danger that the business will 
ever " dry up " than of our gold-mines, as has often been predicted by shallow- 
minded men. Above the Sal Si Puedes Islands, and near Isle Tiburon, in the 
gulf, is said to abound a small species of brilliant white-shelled pearl oyster, but 
we are not aware of the special quality of pearls they yield. The species of white 
and red coral so esteemed in jewelry has been also found in the peninsular 
waters in considerable abundance for some years. Between 1700 and 1710, the 
king's share of one-fifth of all the pearls taken in California, for each and every 
vessel employed or engaged, amounted annually to $12,000. The traders were 
obliged to procure a license from the governor of Sonora, and generayy started 
from Guaymas. These vessels measured from 15 to 30 tons; the owners are 
called armadores, and the divers busos, and the barks, each, carried from 30 to 
50 divers ; the armador advanced all the outfits and provisions, and carried 
supplies, and goods to exchange Avith his men for pearls : a venture all round. 
In the years mentioned, as many as 800 divers, mostly Yaqui Indians, have 
been employed in the season from July to October. In 1825, as Forbes states 
from Hardy, 18 small vessels were employed, and, when fortunate, obtained 
from 500 to 1,000 dollars' worth of pearls each. In 1831 four small barks, with 
boats, fitted out from the Sonora ports, carrying 200 divers. One vessel got 40 
ounces of pearls, worth $6,500 ; another, 21 ounces, worth $3,000 ; another, 
15 ounces, worth $1,800; and the fourth, 12 ounces, worth $2,000; total, 
$13,300. In 1855 the value of $65,000 in pearls and pearl-shells was obtained, 
and in 1857 the amount of $22,000 in pearls, and $30,000 in sheik 

THE GUANO DEPOSITS OF THE OCEAN AND GULF SHORES. 

There are stated to be guano deposits on several of the islets and rocks of 
the upper gulf sections, where myriads of sea-fowl congregate ; and, as rains are 
infrequent there, the quality is, doubtless, profitable to work. From 1855 to 
1857 great excitement was created in San Francisco, touching the deposits on 
the ocean coast of the peninsula, and the little island of Elide, so called, as we 
are informed by Captain Kimberly, of Santa Barbara, from an American vessel, 
Avhich first took a caro;o, was the centre of some spicy events for many months. 
The island is said to have yielded many large cargoes for several years, gaining 
several hundred thousand dollars, by a few long-headed speculators ; but at 
present, we believe, it is exhausted. Growing out of this discovery, some active 
California traders started off" to Mexico, and are said to have secured a monopoly 
of all guaiio deposits on both coasts of Lower California, the result of which 
was the establishment of the well-known Mexican Guano Company, of San Fran- 
cisco. Elide Island is in the northern part of Viscaino Bay, in about 28° 50°, 
and some 50 miles northeast of Cedros Island, and at Natividad and Assump- 
tion Islands, below Cedros, guano is also said to be found as well as on several 
other islets and points farther south. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 65 



CHAPTER XII. 

THE NATIVE AND DOMESTICATED ANIMALS MOUNTAIN SHEEP, AND GOATS. 

The indigenous quadrupeds, insects, birds, and reptiles of Lower California 
are nearly precisely those of Arizona, and the southern parts of Alta California, 
below Point Concepcion. The quadrupeds are grizzly and cinnamon bears, ante- 
lopes, or berendas, big-horn sheep, sometimes called by the Mexicans tajcs and 
cervatos, the mountain-goat, deer, wild-cats, two kinds of lions, so called, very de- 
structive to horses, ground-squirrels, gophers, skunks, badgers, raccoons, coyotes, 
hares, rabbits, wolves, and foxes. Among the insects are locusts, or chapules, which 
are very destructive at times, several species of bees and wasps, tarantula and 
other spiders, and many other insects peculiar to Souora. Among the birds 
are two species of vultures, called Burrowes vulture, and the California condor, 
the common turkey buzzard, various kinds of ovvls, eagles, and hawks, the Cali- 
fornia quail, blackbirds, finches, humming-birds, larks, ducks, geese, a great 
variety of sea-birds, and numbers of others of the feathered kingdom, not met 
with in the southern parts of the State of California. 

The Jesuit fathers mention seeing, on several occasions, large flocks of wild 
goats on the gulf shores above the latitudes of the Sal Si Puedes Islands, and 
it is likely identical with the true Rocky Mountain goat, or it may be a distinct 
species. The big-horn sheep, called taje by the Loreto Indians, was formerly 
very plentiful in the mountains, and is figured in Venegas's volumes ; it has often 
been met with by mineral hunters since 1848. 

The ox, horse, ass, sheep, goat, domestic fowl, turkey, hog, dog, and cat 
were introduced by the Jesuit padres before 1730, but they never increased in 
such proportions as they did in Alta California, from tlic greater scarcity of wa- 
ter, and the rugged nature of the country. The cattle and horses are extremely 
hardy, and acquire the habit of feeding on the cactus and the agave-plants, 
which abound in prickles ; and such is the wise provision of Nature, that the 
tongue and inside of the mouth become so hardened as to resist and break down 
this spinous vegetable fodder, and they thrive on it. There can be no doubt that 
the fine, long-hair goats of Cashmere, Armenia, Angora, and Morocco, Avould 
succeed without difficulty in Lower California, as the common goat is extremely 
hardy and prolific in most parts ; the northern districts are admirably adapted 
to the fine-haired varieties, as the temperature is warm, pleasant, and equable. 
These animals not only furnish abundant and easily-clipped fleeces, but they 
supply excellent meat for the butcher, and the cost of keeping them is much 
less than that of sheep or cattle. The camel could be also introduced, and 
would be very serviceable in travelling. 

Before 1848 there were said to be in Lower California about the following 
numbers of domestic stock in the different mission districts, those below the San 
Diego frontier being the richest, i. e., between Santo Tomas and Rosario : 

Cattle 60,000 head. 

Horses 7,000 " 

Sheep 200,000 " 

Mules 2,000 " 

Asses 2,000 " 

Goats 20,000 " 

The ass and goat thrive better than other introduced animals. Hogs 
and domestic poultry are always plentiful and cheap. These figures are 
mere approximates; the mission fathers of the peninsula never having kept 
such careful statistics of their animals, products, and Indians, as did those of 
Upper California, so there is no other rule to go by than popular report. Lions, 
coyotes, wild-cats, wolves, etc., are much more destructive to domestic animals 
in the peninsula than above San Diego. The great drought of 1863-64 made 



QQ SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

great havoc among the flocks and herds of all parts of the peninsula, and in- 
jured the prospects of the northern districts on the ocean particularly. 

THE NATIVE AND INTRODUCED FRUITS, GRAINS, AND VEGETABLES — -FOREST- 
TREES NO HISTORY OF ITS BOTANY KNOWN. 

All kinds and varieties of the cactus or prickly-pear family, amounting to 
some 50 distinct species, abound in every part of Baja California, and yield the 
most delicious and healthy quality of fruits in the greatest abundance. The 
famih^ of the agaves (mercals, magueys, or century plants) are extremely abun- 
dant and varied, and it is likely in the future will make an important article 
of commerce for the manufacture of spirits from the roots, and of rope, bagging, 
and paper fibre, from the leaves or pencas, which often weigh 50 pounds. It 
is certain that the fibre of the agaves could be furnished easily and in the great- 
est abundance, in any quantities, and within short distances of ship-anchorage. 
For rope and bagging it exceeds every fibre we have seen in strength, length 
of fibre, and durability. The family of acacia-trees, called mesquites, algarro- 
bas, and locusts, abound in every part of the country. Two kinds of native 
palms, bearing edible fruit, are very abundant, and several kinds of cone-bear- 
ing trees, as pines, cedars, etc. Oaks, wdld plums, cottonwoods, ^sycamores, 
willows, and elder, are also met with in mountain and valley. 

The missionaries, after 1730, introduced the Arabian date-palm, which suc- 
ceeds admirably, and yields abundantly, and also oranges, lemons, and all the 
species of the citrine family, pine-apples, bananas, plantains, and the most of the 
valuable and curious fruits produced in Mexico, below the level of 3,000 feet. 
They also planted the vine, olive, fig, pomegranate, almond, peach, quince, and 
even plums, apples, pears, melons, watermelons, and such like, in more elevated 
and. cooler districts ; the vine, fig, olive, currant-grape, almond, quince, and 
peach, are much more luscious, and grow much quicker, and with less labor 
and expense, than in Alta California, and in many special localities are unsur- 
passed in the world for luxuriance, sweetness, and flavor. The fig and grape 
are much SAveeter than in our State, and the grape ripens better and quicker, 
from hotter and drier suns, and makes much richer wine, brandy, raisins, and 
currants. Before 1849 the Lower Californians sent up annually to Monterey 
large quantities of dried figs, currants, grapes, dates, and peaches, and cheese 
also, which were sold at reasonable rates and good profits. The cultivation of 
all the fruits named, and of many others of Asia and Oceanica, could be indefi- 
nitely extended, with sufficient population and a stable government. 

Wheat, barley, oats, maize, or corn, and all the cereals of Europe or Asia, 
which have been tried, succeed well, according to localities and. temperature, 
as well as such vegetables as sweet potatoes, okra, peas, beans, cabbages, and 
pumpkins, onions, egg-fruit, and the native vegetables used for the table in 
Mexico and Peru. The sugar cane has been cultivated for more than a century, 
and yields a sugar as strong and sweet as that of Peru, and very abundant in 
juice. Coftee has also been tried, and its quality is excellent, as the valleys of 
Lower California, where sheltered from heavy winds, resemble in climate and 
soil the elevated country near Mocha in Arabia. If there is ])lenty of such 
land in the peninsula, cotfee can be easily made to become a profitable business, 
but it must be always grown under the line of heavy frosts, or it bears no fruit. 

The date-palm, in all its varieties, such as are found in Egypt, Morocco, and 
Arabia, is capable of being cultivated to an indefinite extent in Baja California, 
as it grows in upland and lowland vigorously, and bears the finest quality of 
fruits. The same may be said of the cocoa-nut palm, which could be made to 
flourish by the million; indeed, there would be no difficulty in growing any 
species of palm, except those peculiar to moist districts. 

No botanist has ever consecutively explored the peninsula in detail, and the 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 6Y 

history of its botany, or flora, like that of its animals, or fauna,is yet to be writ- 
ten. What is known of it is only of partial districts. 

THE COUNTRY ON THE PACIFIC COAST BETWEEN VISCAINO BAY AND SAN DIEGO 
AN AMERICAN FUR-TRAPPEr's ACCOUNT OF IT IN 1827. 

One of the best portions of the peninsula, in soil, fertility, climate, salubrity, 
and abundant fisheries, is that settled by the Dominican friars between 1774 
and 1800. The best map of this portion of old California (as we are informed 
by Captain Kimberly, who has frequently visited it as trader and otter-hunter) 
is Payot's map of 1863. There is much o;ood land in the vicinity of the esteros, 
or lagoons, and also near the missions of Rosario, San Vicente, Santo Domingo, 
and Santo Tomas ; several permanent streams and a number of coast lagoons 
furnish abundance of excellent water for animals, irrigation, and ship supplies, 
and turtle and fish are exceedingly abundant and easily taken. The orange, 
lemon, banana, date-palm, grape, fig, olive, almond, peach, pomegranate, quince, 
and plum, do much better there than to the north of San Diego, and are not 
only sweeter, but are cultivated with much less diflSculty than with us, and 
arrive at maturity much earlier. The climate, from its proximity to the sea, 
is not only extremely salubrious, the people enjoying uncommonly good health, 
and being long livers, but the atmosphere is extremely fine, pleasant, and 
invigorating, and seldom troubled with cold summer fogs and winds; these facts 
are well known since 1770, the testimony of travellers and seamen being uni- 
form. Many good harbors and ports arc found, with every requisite of wood 
and sweet water for the use of ships ; and all that is wanted to make a prosper- 
ous country is population and a stable government : there is said to be sufficient 
good land and other requisites to maintain and build up a large city. 

The first American who visited this section of the peninsula from the East, 
or indeed the first white man, was James O. Pattie, as long ago as March, 1827. 
He was taken with his father and a party of distressed beaver-hunters by a 
squad of soldiers at the mission of Santa Catalina, from whence they travelled 
to San Vicente, and then up the coast to Santo Tomas, San Miguel, and San 
Diego, at which place they were all put in prison by General Echeandia, the 
first Mexican governor of the two Californias. In his book, Pattie says this 
part of the coast contains large quantities of fertile land, and the padres had 
excellent vineyards, gardens, and orchards of all kinds of fruit, grains, and vege- 
tables, and feasted the travellers on good wines, fruits, and viands. Some 4,000 
Indians were seen in Santa Catalina, San Vicente, Santo Tomas, and San 
Miguel, and they had then many thousand head of horses and mules; the valleys 
and plains were covered with bands of cattle by the thousand, and in Santo 
Tomas alone they had 30,000 sheep. As he did not travel below San Vicente, 
it is fair to estimate that the five coast and vicinous mountain missions to the 
south of San Vicente, and as far as Viscaino Bay, must have had equally as 
many Indians, and been quite as rich in cattle, horses, and sheep, and had as lux- 
uriant gardens, orchards, vineyards, and cultivated fields. 

Since 1851 all this part of the coast has been infested by runaway rascals 
and vagabonds from Alta California and Mexico, who have greatly injured the 
prospects of the respectable people settled in that section of Lower California. 
This got to such a pass that between 1856 and 1861 several of these despera- 
does had to be shot, and their less guilty companions run out of the country. 
If it were well protected and governed, this section would rapidly increase in 
wealth and population, as it has, besides the above-mentioned advantages, excel- 
lent mines of copper, silver, lead, coal, and other valuable minerals. The oppo- 
site parallels on the gulf, which are entirely unsettled, are also said to contain 
much good land and timber, with sufficient good water for large settlements. 
In speaking of these northern sections it is proper to bear in mind, that the 



Qg SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

great clroua:lit of 1863-64, which was so severely felt in the two Californias, was 
experienced in Mexico, Buenos Ayres, Chili, and Australia, and all over the 
Mississipj)i and Missouri countries. 

walker's expedition to lower CALIFORNIA. 

Tliis summary would not be complete without some mention of the crude, 
childish, and ill-advised invasion of the peninsula l>y some 250 to 300 filibus- 
ters under General AVilliam Walker, so well known in the State of California, 
and whose name afterward became famous in connection with the civil wars of 
Nicarao;ua and Central America between 1856 and 1860, and who soon after 
lost his liffe by military execution near Omoa or Truxillo, on the Atlantic coast 
of Honduras, through the interference of a British man-of-war. 

On the 15th of October, 1853, the bark Caroline, having on board General 
Walker, with a large number of armed men, and a regular cut-and-dried staff 
of secretaries of war, navy, state, etc., etc., after the ancient Texas plan, sailed 
from San Francisco, and arrived at La Paz on the 3d of November, where 
AValker, having seized the public archives and captured Eobellero and Espinosa, 
the chief ofHcers of the government, passed through several small skir- 
mishes, hauled down the Mexican flag and hoisted a new one, declaVing Lower 
California a separate republic. W^alker was proclaimed president, and a regular 
staff of civil and military offices defined and laid down. On the 18th January, 
1854, all this was changed, and Lower California and Sonora declared an inte- 
gral government and nation under the style and title of The Republic of Sonora. 
in the mean time the bark Annita, with some 100 more armed men under Colonel 
Watkins, completed their arrangements on the sly, and slipped out of San Fran- 
cisco on Yth December, 1853, arriving at an agreed-upon place on the coast a 
few leagues below San Diego, where Walker soon joined the party, and com- 
menced dating his orders and decrees in March and April, 1854, from Santo 
Tomas, La Tia Juana, La Grulla, La Enseiiada, and San Vicente, shortly after 
in the filibustering style of the magnifico order of fire-eating words. Meeting 
here much unex)>ected opposition and coming out of an expedition to the Colo- 
rado to capture Sonora, made in person and resulting very disastrously to his 
command and his prospects, on his return to Santo Tomas, being hard pressed 
by the comandante Melendez and his Mexican soldiers. Walker " evacuated 
Lower California " and retired across the frontier line, where Captain Burton 
and Major McKinstry, United States military officers at San Diego, received liis 
surrender on the 6th May, 1854. Walker gave his parole to these officers to 
take his trial for a breach of the neutrality laws of the United States, when 
reporting to General Wool at San Francisco, and the invasion then came to an 
abrupt end by the dispersion of the party at San Diego. The trial of himself 
and some of his officers was held shortly after at San Francisco, but, nothing 
being proved, the whole aftair ended in smoke, and AValker went on editing 
California newspapers for one or two years longer, when he accepted the Nicara- 
gua proposals, which all know terminated so disastrously to some 5,000 men. 

THE HIGHEST ELEVATIONS OF THE PENINSULA MOUNTAIN LAKE AND THE SNOW- 
PEAKS. 

As the vicinities of the bay of Viscaino are reached, and after passing the 
parallel of 28°, the mountain system begins to rapidly rise from 4,000 feet 
to the elevation of perpetual snow, which it appears to attain opposite the 
mission of San Fernando, which from several accounts it seems to carry 
until near the mission of Santa Catalina. These snowy peaks (for it is only on 
the highest peaks snow is seen) must be over 12,000 feet high, as they are 
reported to be covered with snow in the spring and early summer, by Kino in 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 69 

1702, Link in 1765, and by Pattie in 1827 ; but these nevadas have never been 
laid down geographically correct in the two or three old maps of the Jesuits; 
indeed, they are not laid down on any we have seen dated after 1830. In their 
vicinities is stated to be a large mountain lake which feeds the various small 
streams north of Viscaino Bay. 

It is the melting of the snows on this range which makes the northern part 
of the peninsula so much better watered and more fertile than the southern dis- 
tricts, or even better than our sections between San Diego and San Bernardino, 
and in consequence several permanent but small streams are found between 
Santa Catalina and the latitude of Cedros Island. After passing to the north 
of Catalina the land gradually lowers to 3,000 and 4,000 feet, and going south 
from Cedros Island it falls down by degrees, till it reaches the ocean level at 
Cape San Lucas. 

THE PIOUS FUND OF CALIFORNIA DRIED UP IN 1867 A CALIFORNIA BISHOP- 
RIC ESTABLISHED IN 1836 THE NEW BISHOP ARRIVES AT SAN DIEGO IN 

1841 A LAND GRANT IN ALTA CALIFORNIA TO ENDOW A COLLEGE FOR 

THE TWO CALIFORNIAS. 

During the period of the Jesuit occupation of the peninsula from 1700 to 
1767, a large amount was collected by them in Mexico from various devout 
men and "women, which they invested in large haciendas with herds, flocks, and 
cultivations, and in house ])roperty, principally in Mexico City. At the expul- 
sion of the Jesuits in 1767, this funded property had acquired a legal and 
religious status under the style of " El Fondo Piadoso de California," worth 
about $1,000,000, and yielded sufficient income to give to each priest in the 
California missions from 400 to 500 dollars annually, together -with assisting 
the mission expenses generally ; no faithful and exact account, however, of these 
matters, to our knowledge, has ever been given to the world. On the expulsion 
of the Jesuits in 1767, the fund was placed under the care of the king's treasurer 
in Mexico, Avho portioned it off yearly to each Dominican or Franciscan mis- 
sion and priest in the two Californias, in about the same amounts as formerly 
paid to the Jesuits. This system was faithfully carried out until about the 
year 1806, when, Spain being in trouble and money scarce, the king's fiscal 
agent in Mexico appropriated some $200,000 of it, and, from the heavy load of 
war and family troubles then accumulating in Spain, it was soon evident this 
nice little amount would be retained permanently. The confusion of Mexican 
aftairs and the poverty of Spain after 1810 prevented any salaries or expenses 
being paid out of the fund for some twelve years more, when the viceroy's gov- 
ernment dried up (1822), giving no account to the representatives of the Cali- 
fornia friars in Mexico City of what had become of long lapsed receipts. The 
republican government kept things in this way until between 1840-44 (having 
nominally given the new bishopric of the Californias, instituted about 1836, the 
use of tile rents of the fund, from which some driblets were obtained), when 
Santa Anna by a government decree put it under the charge of General Va- 
lencia as administrator, reporting to Santa Anna for his approval. After this 
brilliant cast the whole etfects, lands, houses, loose moneys, etc., etc., of the 
fund evaporated as seems forever from the government of the Catholic Church 
authorities, either in the Californias or in Mexico. When Archbishop Alemany, 
of San Francisco, visited Mexico about 1854, with intent to probe all these 
matters, every thing was gone ; not even a fragment remained, it is said, to hold a 
nail to. After 1810 the priests in the two Californias, until the American flag 
was raised in 1846, were entirely dependent on the incomes from their herds, 
cultivations, vineyards, and orchards, for the maintenance of theii- Indians, the 
care of the churches and the missions, and for their own personal expenses. 
The Lower California missions being very poor, except those on the coast 



70 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

between San Diego and Rosario, felt this loss veiy severely, and these estab- 
lishments began rapidly to decline and run to seedy ruin, a state of things com- 
pleted by the retirement of the Spanish priests after 1829, and the seculaiization 
of the,n)issions in 1833. 

A CALIFORNIA BISHOPRIC FOR THE TWO CALIFORNIAS MADE IN 1836 THE NEW 

BISHOP ARRIVES IN 1841 A LAND GRANT IN ALTA CALIFORNIA TO ENDOW 

A COLLEGE FOR THE BISHOPRIC ISSUED IN 1844. 

On the loth September, 1836, the Mexican Congress passed an act erecting 
the territories of the two Californias into an episcopal jurisdiction, under the 
title of the Bishopric of California, which was charged with the direction of the 
Pious Fund properties; the bishop was to have $6,000 per annum, and $3,000 
for an outfit. On the 8tli February, 1842, the Government, by a public decree, 
took back the charge of the Pious Fund, against which the bishop protested, 
without avail, however. Previous to this, in the year 1840, Fria Francisco 
Garcia Diego, a Mexican Franciscan, who had served several years previously in 
the Alta California missions, was nominated by the Government to the bishopric, 
and afterward confirmed by Pope Gregory XVI. at Rome. On the 16th De- 
cember, 1841, Bishop Garcia arrived at San Diego from San Bias in an English 
vessel, accompanied by several priests and school-teachers, San Diego having 
been appointed as his residence, where and elsewhere throughout Alta Califor- 
nia he was received with every respect, but he never visited Lower California. 
The bishop's residence was afterward removed to Santa Barbara, at which place 
he died early in 1846, before the American flag was raised, and was buried 
at the mission of Santa Barbara. In 1850 Father Joseph S. Alemany was made 
bishop of Monterey, which included the jurisdiction of the State of California, 
that of Lower California being in abeyance, as belonging to Mexico. In 1853 
Father Alemany was made Archbishop of San Francisco, and the country north 
above the line of Santa Cruz town, and south to the Mexican boundary, retained 
under the name of the bishopric of Monterey and Los Angeles, to which was 
appointed as bishop, in 1854, Gather Tadeo Amat, whose residence is at Los 
Angeles. 

After Father Amat was appointed, the Mexican Government, about 1856, 
desired to make Lower California into a bishopric, and, it is said, requested 
Father Jose M. Gonzalez, of Santa Barbara, to take charge of the diocese, but 
Father Gonzalez, being well in years, and having resided since 1833 in Alta 
California, declined the appointment as not proper at bis time of life and at 
such a distance from his residence. In 1861 the country above Sacramento 
was divided off again by the formation of an intermediary bishopric, with its 
centre at Marvsville, and Father Eugene O'Connell as vicar apostolic. After 
1850, when Father Alemany was made first bishop of Monterey and second 
bishop of California, or successor of Bishop Garcia Diego, Lower California 
was assumed to retire under the charge of the bishop of Sonora, whose resi- 
dence was at the city of Culiacan, and under whose jurisdiction all the missions 
of the two Californias had been placed since about the year 1774, and up to 
the year 1840, when Garcia Diego was confirmed. 

Under the government of Micheltoreno, a grant of eight leagues of land, 
or about 35,000 acres, was made in the year 1844 to the bishopric of Califor- 
nia, as dowry to establish and sustain an institution of learning for the youth of 
the two territories. This grant was located near the mission of Santa Ynez in 
the present county of Santa Barbara, and to this day goes under the name of 
the Ranclio del Colegio, or College Ranch, and is valued at about $20,000. 
Under the terms of the grant the " College of Our Lady of Guadelupe " was 
instituted at Santa Ynez by Bishop Diego Garcia, and, after going tlu'ough many 
reverses, still exists as an institution, under the charge of Franciscan teachers, 
with some 20 pupils. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. Yl 

Since 1850 this grant of land has always been administered under the charge 
of Father Alemany at San Francisco for the benetit of all the districts included 
under the charge of the ancient missionaries of both Lower California and the 
State of California, but the profits and usufructs of the grant have so far 
amounted to nothing, as the great drought of 1863-64 nearly swept off all their 
large stock of sheep, horses, and cattle. When any profits do issue, the eccle- 
siastical body of Lower California will receive its due proportion. In conse- 
quence of this curious mixture of church and worldly matters, the Eoman 
Catholic ecclesiastical chiefs represented to the Pope at Rome how the matter 
stood, and desired a division of the property, but Pius IX. referred them to the 
Congress of the United States as the proper body to cause a legal partition of 
the grant or its usufructs. This representation was made to Congress in 1864, 
but up to 1867 no effectual changes have been made in the status of the College 
Ranch grant. 

THE DESTROYED MISSIONS OF THE COLORADO IN 1782. 

In the fall of 1782 the Yuma Indians destroyed the two missions on the 
west bank of the Colorado, opposite the junction of the Gila, which had been 
founded a short time before by oi'der of the Viceroy Buccarelli, and not far 
from where Fort Yuma now stands. These missions were nine miles apart; 
the upper one was called La Purisima Concepcion, and the lower one San Pedro 
y San Pablo, and they were under the charge of four missionaries of the Fran- 
ciscan College of Santa Cruz of Queretaro City, which college had charge of 
all the old Jesuit missions of Sonora. The Indians surprised the people one 
Sunday when at mass, by congregating in hundreds, and murdered the two 
missionaries of Concepcion, named Padres Juan Dias, a native of Estremadura, 
and Matias Moreno, of Burgos, and the other two of San Pedro y San Pablo, 
named Juan Barreneche, a native of Santa Helena in Florida, and Francisco 
Garces of Arragon ; this last was a well-known missionary traveller among the 
Indian nations of the Gila, the Colorado, and the Mohave, and had visited the 
Moquis and several other tribes in New Mexico. With these priests Avere also 
murdered Captain Fernando Rivera Moncada (who had long served in Upper 
and Lower California, and in Sonora) and some 30 soldiers, and as many 
Sonorians, male and female, who had settled there as colonists by order of the 
viceroy to keep open the overland communication between Upper California 
and Sonora. The next year Colonel Pedro Fages was sent from California to 
examine into the matter and pmiish the Indians, but they could not be caught. 
He found the bones of the murdered people scattered around, bleaching in the 
sun, and had them gathered up and buried with becoming decency. The bodies 
of the missionaries were placed in boxes and carried by Fages to the president 
of the Sonora missions to be buried, after which Fages passed to Arispe to re- 
port the results to the comandante-general, De Croix. Padre Kino had also 
founded a small out-mission, not far from the junction, but on the Gila bottom, 
about 1704, which he called San Dionisio, but this had been deserted since 
1720. 

THE CHINESE AS LABORERS IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. 

Whatever may be done in future under the different political aspects which 
maj'^ obtain in the California peninsula, no great amount of agricultural, marine, 
or mineral products can be accumulated without a sure and sutficient supply of 
tropical laborers at reasonable rates. The only people vAio can fill this neces- 
sary vacancy for long years are the Chinese, who have proved sufficiently docile 
in railroad and manufacturing operations in California State, or in Peru and the 
Sandwich Islands as cultivators of sugar and other products. With proper 
treatment and good laws, under the management of capitalists, the copper, sil- 
ver, and lead mines, the overflowing fisheries, the cultivation of the vine, olive, 



72 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

almond, date-palm, maguey, cocoa-palm, nuts, figs, and currants, and of sugar, 
cotton, cotFee, chocolate, or cocoa, tea, and hundreds of other tropical and in- 
tertropical productions could be carried on with great profits and in a very 
healthy and desirable climate, and in the vicinity of good shipping ports. The 
Chinese are not strangers on the Mexican coasts, having resided in Acapulco, 
San Bias, and other places, for years before 1800, having come in the old 
galleons from Manilhi as merchants, servants, or sailors, and many of their de- 
scendants exist to this day in Western Mexico. Tlicre are no tropical laborers 
either as good, or as cheap and docile, as the laboring classes of China, and after 
a while they would soon make permanent residence in the country. They 
are doubtless intended by Divine Providence to play a most important part in 
the development of the countries of Pacific North and South America: nothing 
can lono" obstruct their coming-. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THE RAILROAD LINES TO CONNECT SAN FRANCISCO WITH LOWER CALIFORNIA. 

There are now regularly organized railroad corporations to connect the bay 
of San Francisco with the countries of the Colorado and the gul!" of California, 
which without a doubt will be completely effected before the year 1880, or only 
13 years hence. These may be enumerated as follows, and all of them will join 
with the great railroad of the central route between Sacramento and Great Salt 
Lake, and so to the Mississippi, which will be completed by the 1st of January, 
1870: 

1. The southern railroad coast line from San Jose to Gilroy, and over 
through the Tulare Valley, and from thence by the way of Los Angeles and 
San Diego to the Colorado, generally called the Phelps Company. 

2. The Sacramento and Arizona Railroad Company, from Sacramento via 
Stockton, Visalia, Fort Tejon, and to the junction of the Colorado and Gila. 

3. Air-line railroad line from Matagorda Bay, in Texas, by the Mesilla Val- 
ley, the table-lands of Chihuahua, Arizona, and across the Colorado Valley and 
the coast mountains to San Diego Bay ; called Pease and Wood's Line. 

4. A line from Great Salt Lake, via the Pahranagat silver-mines, to the Colo- 
rado River at a navigable point. 

5. T!ie railroad company of General Angel Trias, which has a route sur- 
veyed from Matamoras and through Tamaulipas, Coahuila, Chihuahua, Durango, 
and Sonora, to the port of Guaymas, with liberal grants of land, mining privi- 
leges, etc., from the Mexican Government. 

All these routes will be accompanied by telegraph lines. Railroad and tele- 
gi'aph lines will, of course, follow through the length and breadth of Lower 
California, and through all parts of Sonora, and down to Mazatlan, there being 
no insuperable difficulties in existence. The Overland Mail route, through from 
Texas and Arizona to San Diego, will likely also be soon reopened, and after 
that we shall speedily have regular mail lines between San Diego through to 
Cape San Lucas. So that, within a time much shorter than expected, daily mail 
communications may be instituted between San Francisco and the southern 
parts of the peninsula, and also from the Gila all through Sonora and Sinaloa 
to Mazatlan. 

The effects of the Panama Railroail, the railroads through Tehuantepec, 
Nicaragua, Honduras, Chiriqui, and Costa Rica, and the great ship-canal 
through the Isthmus of Darien, all of which will, doubtless, be eftected by 1880, 
the passage by the canal of the Isthnms of Suez, the steam lines from California 
to China and from China to Europe, with the telegraph crossing from America 
to Asia, and thence through Russia to England, and so back to America, will, 
in the short space of twenty years, accumulate such overwhelming results in the 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 73 

North Pacific States as to involve, by tlie forces of an irresistible attraction, the 
peninsula of California in the grand circle of events in coraraerce and politics 
now rapidly hastening to a providential culmination. 

SCRAPS AND FRAGMENTS OF BAJA CALIFORNIA NOTABILXA. 

The Dominican missionaries state that the Indians of Comondu Loreto, 
Cadegomo, and Moleje are false, melancholy, and very filthy ; those of San Fernan- 
do and Rosario are docile, pacific, and easily managed ; those of San Domingo and 
San Vicente are unquiet, proud, and fickle ; while those of Santo Tomas, San 
Pedro Martyr, Santa Catalina, and San Miguel, are quick-tempered, treacherous, 
warlike, and difficult to govern. 

The Indians of the missions to the south of San Ignacio were so infected 
with the syphilis, measles, small-pox, and other diseases imported by the 
Spaniards, which occasioned such ravages among them, that not one of them 
was left in several of the reductions before 1794, "while in others those num- 
bering by thousands were diminished to hundreds. The small-pox is said to 
have been introduced about 1781 by a company of Sonorians. By the year 
1825, it is said, not a single pure Indian could be seen in the missions below 
Loreto. 

In the year 1774 the King of Spain donated |1,000 to found the mission of 
La Rosario, in the circles and vicinities of which the padres found several thou- 
sand Indians. 

In 1781 the mission of San Vicente was attacked by 2,000 Yuma Indians 
from the mountains, who did great injury. This attack was soon afterward 
avenged, and the Indians severely punished, by Don Theodore de Croix, co- 
mandante of the Mexican frontier, who was subsequently Viceroy of Peru. 

Between 1789 and 1800 the infant missions of San Pedro Martyr and Santa 
Catalina were several times ' attacked by the Yunias, who greatly retarded their 
establishment and growth. These Indians finally effected the entire desertion 
and abandonment of the two missions before 1828, and at present they are 
seldom visited. 

An insurrection of the Indians of Santo Tomas occurred in 1803. Two 
American vessels anchored in San Quintin Bay to get salt ; they had been fired 
into at San Diego by the fort. 

In January, 1795, Father Cayatano Pallos became superior of the missions 
of Lower California, and left the frontiers to reside at Loreto. He retired in 
1797, and Father Vicente Belda was made superior in his stead. During these 
years much dispute was going on among the northern missions as to the OAvner- 
ship of the valley of San Rafael, between San Vicente and San Domingo. 

In 1802 Padre Rafael Arvina became superior of the missions, which, giving 
much discontent to the Dominican missionaries, nine of them the next year re- 
fused to obey his orders, and drew up a manifesto against him, and forwarded it 
to Governor Arrillaga. The superior, on learning this, requested the governor 
for an armed force to compel his friars to obedience. In 1804 Padre Arvina 
was deposed, and Padre Placido Sanz made superior in his stead. These 
quarrels among the Dominican friars proved very injurious to the missions and 
Indians, and caused much scandal in the two Californias, it being plain that the 
Dominicans were incompetent to manage the Indians as well as the Jesuits or 
Franciscans. 

In 1802 there were only 47 soldiers in the Presidio of Loreto. At San Jose 
del Cabo was another presidio, with a small number of soldiers. 

In May, 1803, Captain Jose Maria Ruiz reports to Governor Arrillaga the 
murder of Father Eduardo Surroca by the Indians of Santo Tomas, and in June 
he further reports that he had severely chastised them. 

In 1806 the Indians of San Francisco Borja revolted, and gave much 
trouble. 



74 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

In 1813 Father Ramon Lopez was made superior of the missions of Eaja 
California. 

In 1826 Father Tomas Ahumada was superior of the missions, and resided 
at San Jose del Cabo. 

In 1828 the missions were becoming very poor, the friars were decreasing 
every year, and Father Domingo Luna was made only provisional vicar of the 
Lower California missions. In that year Padre Luna writes to Governor Echean- 
dia, touching the legality of his missionaries taking the oath of allegiance to 
the Mexican Government, demanded of the missionaries by the government of 
the two Californias in 1827. 

AH the Dominican and Franciscan friars in the two territories were then na- 
tives of Old Spain. 

From 1843 to 1846 Father Ignacio Ramirez de Arrellanes was superior of 
the peninsular missions. In October, 1848, he left, as a political refugee, with 
the American troops, and acted as parish curate of Monterey until 1854, when 
he returned to Mexico. 

In the years 1818-1819 the priests inform the governor they have received 
information that the Americans are fitting out expeditions in Texas and New 
Mexico to take the Californias. Great excitement about this time concerning 
the expected visit of Bouchard, the Buenos Ayres privateer, Avho afterward 
plundered Monterey and scared Santa Barbara to death. 

In tlie M\ of 1717 tremendous hurricanes and water-spouts visited the 
southern missions, and did much damage, lasting for three days. In 1784 
great hurricanes again occurred, with whirlwinds of sand. In 1849—50 similar 
phenomena visited the country and did much damage. In 1863-'64 the great 
drought was simultaneous in both Californias, and occasioned heavy losses in 
stock animals. 

In 1 864 asphaltum deposits were said to have been found in the vicinities 
of Viscahio Bay. 

In 1863 one J. L. Hopkins, a printer from San Francisco, established 
the £1 Jlexicano newspaper at the town of La Paz — the first of the kind, we 
believe. 

In 1858-59 Dr. John L. Veitch, of Washoe, visited the island of Cedros and 
vicinities on a scientific expedition, an account of which is given in the San 
Francisco Hesperian Magazine of 1860-61. 

During the time of the Spanish sway in the Californias, the government and 
public correspondence was brought from Mexico to Guaymas once a month, and 
pa&scd over by boat to Loreto, from whence it was sent on horseback through 
the missions of the peninsula to San Diego, Monterey, and San Francisco. This 
was commenced about 1776, and ended about 1816, during the revolution. 
After 1835 it was sometimes sent by way of the Colorado, but dispatches came 
generally till 1846 by sailing-vessels from Mazatlan and other Mexican ports. 

The coral-fisheries of the island of Sardinia employed 290 small vessels and 
1,900 sailors in 1 866, and procured not less than |300,000 worth of this beautiful 
aid to the jeweller's art. It is principally used for children's toys and making- 
cameos, breastpins, seals for watches and rings, and a variety of ornamental pur- 
poses. There is said to be an abundance of this substance in the waters of the 
gulf and Magdalena Bay. 

In 1863 a large number of pictures and church valuables w^ere brought from 
Lower California to San Francisco and placed on exhibition in that city. Among 
these were aaid to be several originals of the great Spanish painters Velasquez 
and Murillo, and also original oil-portraits of Fathers Kino, Salvatierra, and Juni- 
pero Serra, these last three being from the church of Loreto. Some greedy 
speculators, with or without authority from the Mexican Government, had cleaned 
out the mission churches of the peninsula, even we believe as high up as San 
Vicente. What became of the portraits we are not aware, but it was looked 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. Y5 

upon by all right-minded persons as nothing but church robbery and sacri- 
lege. 

The Pacific Pearl Company, of New York and Panama, in January, 1867, 
undertook to fish for pearl oysters among the Pearl Islands of Panama Bay. A 
submarine boat was arranged, capable of carrying ten or twelve men at one 
time, who can Avork under the water for many hours, and so constructed that it 
mny be lowered or hoisted at a moment's notice : when the boat is lowered, it 
can be opened at the bottom by means of two trap-doors, which allows a space 
often feet square under each trap-door for working space over the pearl-beds. 
This enterprise is said to be effectual and prosperous. 

A recent number of the San Francisco Evening Bulletin gives the following 
summary of Lower California exports for the year 1857, which appears to be 
taken from official Mexican sources, and must be greatly under the true amount 
of exports : 

Values. Values- 
Hides, 13,000 pieces $32,500 Salt fish, 1,150 pounds $96 

Salt, 2,000 tons 12,000 Brazil-wood, 150 tons 3,000 

Cheese, 100,000 pounds 8,000 Silver ores, 250 tons, cost price 5,600 

Brown sugar, or panoche, 29,000 lbs. . 11,000 Silver metal, 2,000 marks 16,000 

Dried figs',;' 32,500 pounds 1,300 Gold, 80 ounces 1,120 

Raisins, 28,500 pounds 2,200 Tortoise-shell, 300 pounds 6,000 

Soap, 2,610 pounds 2,610 Pearls, value 21,750 

Wine, 54 barrels » 540 Mother of pearl shell, or concha nacar, 

Dried dates, 20,0a0 pounds 1,200 495,700 lbs. at 6 cts 29,742 

Oranges, 22,000 M 220 

Amounting in all to about |1 55,000 in value. This makes no note of such valu- 
able material as whale-oil, seal, sea-elephant and sea-lion oils, and that class of 
marine products, nor of pelts of fur seal, or of the sea otter, or the numbers of 
cattle, mules, and horses sold in Alta California, which must have made the true 
values of exports double. In 1866 the exports of mineral ores and many other 
articles had greatly augmented, and large amounts of whale and marine animal 
oil, with sea-otter pelts, .were known, beyond cavil, to have been exported out of 
the country, and the shipments of Carmen Island salt were very considerable. 
It is no exaggerated estimate to put down the value of the exports of Lower 
California in the year 1866 at one million of dollars ; and it is just as likely, from 
the present high prices of oil, it would run to two millions of dollars. 

THE GATES TO AN OVERFLOWINa COMMERCE IMMENSE MINERAL WEALTH OF 

THE COLORADO BASIN AND THE COUNTRIES OF THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA 

SUBLIME SCENERY OF THE GULF LINES WONDERFUL AGRICULTURAL RE- 
SOURCES OF THIS REGION — AREA AND POPULATION. 

As we approach from the south and west, open the portals of the most won- 
derful metalliferous district that is known in the world. To the right lie the 
green and fertile shores of Sinaloa, and on the left the rugged mountains and 
castellated turrets of the California peninsula. As we sail farther on, black, 
serrated islands, like giant guardians of these seas, cleave the transparent ether, 
and quickly we get glimpses of both shores of the gulf of Cortez. Now com- 
mence, in the quiet and tranquil daylights and twilights of the seasons of winter 
and spring, the most sublime, awful, and enchantingly magical changes and vis- 
tas which earth opens to the visiqn of mortal men. For hundreds of miles peak 
after peak, and rock after rock, and island after island, rise sharp and straight out 
of the depths of the sea, projected against a vault of the purest, densest azure, 
and the pinnacles and summits of earth's upheavals and terrible convulsions seem 
to touch the very firmament of heaven. Here on the shores of Pimaria lie the 
desert stretches and clear-cut, solitary mountain masses, fading out dimly to the 
east till absorbed into the great Cordillera of Mexico ; while to the west follow 
48 



76 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

fold after fold and range after I'ange of tlic Sierras of California. The profound 
stillness of these wondrous solitudes of Nature is, as it were, to new eyes the 
entrance to another world, and different from any other part of our beggarly 
little planet; the mystical depths of man's imagination are exalted to tlie high- 
est pitcli, and the exorcisms of a magic enchantery seem to bewilder thercason- 
ino- powers of his intellect, and, in these awful visions of actual Nature and her 
deep, hidden powers and terrific forces, he feels the littleness of his existence. 
As the shades of night gather, the whole constellations of the heavens burst at 
•once into stellar refulgence, and each particular great body in space projects it- 
self round, distinct, and defined, appearing like inferior moons, and enabling 
human eyes to define objects exactly at great distances, even in some to 
read Avith precision. To the west, in the track of Sol, are seen the mild, pellucid 
splendors of the zodiacal light, stretching in an immense trail from the horizon 
to the zenith like the faint outlines of the shrouds of a comet, and seeming as 
if making some effulgent pathway from the abodes of heaven to guide celestial 
messengers to the earth. But now, under the edges of the eastern firmament, 
among the calm, cool waves, and veiling among the island-crags or continental 
summits, like some coy maiden to meet her lover, rises out of the depths Luna 
with her silvery fice wrapped in smiles and scattering the spmbre shades of 
darkness to their hidden caves, and making all nature dance with joy. She 
seems to rise by visible, movable, tangible motion, as if sailing on a tranquil 
ocean, and, as constellation after constellation is reached, dimming their lustres 
and absorbing their splendors, passing them like some messenger bound on mo- 
mentous purport. Such are the effects of her presence, that all Nature becomes, 
as it were, bewitched to an entrancing tranquillity, and the heats of earth's at- 
mospheres, cooled to the most refined enjoyments experienced in human sensa- 
tions, the soul of man is thrilled to the utmost depths of its hidden faculties. 

As the sun is rising into day, or as his rays are declining into night, the 
most beautiful and changing colors of green, red, purple, gold, blue, and black, 
define themselves along the mountain-heights, and the colors of the rainbow 
mingle, transform, and commingle, make, and dissolve, and beautify or deform 
the strange lands and rugged hills and crags as in the phantasms of a wondrous 
dream. The msot absolute, profound, and overpowering silence comes over the 
face of Nature as the king of day retires, and the spirit of man is involuntarily 
hushed into stillness. On the firing of artillery or musketry, rock after rock, 
and island after island take up the sound, and the hollows, the shores, and the 
peaks, catching the echoes, reverberate, in solemn and swelling voices, their pro- 
tests at the puny efforts of man's intrusion into this grand arcana of earth's 
wonders and mysteries. 

For hundreds of leagues on every hand, within the domains of these shores, 
are found lodes, and veins, and masses of pure copper, iron, lead, mercury, tin, 
gold, silver, soda, salt, sulphur, borax, alum, and every metal or mineral sub- 
stance known in the avarice or utility of man, and from which great treasures 
have not only been drawn for a hundred years, but from which now greater and 
more plenteous riches are being yearly developed. The wonderful, undoubted, 
and inexhaustible wealth of minerals in the countries which are drained by the 
affluents to the Gulf of California must, before many years, make it the centre 
of a commerce of extraordinary developments, destined to have the most pene- 
trating influence on the events of those regions which are laved by the waters 
of the great Pacific Ocean, and entirely change the present aspect of affairs. 

But it is not only in the caves and caverns of the earth that its wealth is 
secreted. On the contrary, the prolific and exuberant soils of these countries 
produce not only all the cereals, and fruits, and vegetables of such countries as 
Syria, Egypt, Greece, Italy, Spain, and France, but the valuable tropical produc- 
tions of sugar, coffee, dyewoods, rice, indigo, cotton, date-palms, cocoa-palms, 
the orange, lemon, plantain, and thousands of other plants too tedious to name. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 77 

The best of pastures for the domesticated animals also aboinid in the mountain 
valleys and hollows, sufficient to maintain them by the million ; and the fig, 
olive, grape, almond, date-pahn, and quince thrive quicker, easier, and yield 
prompter and more sweet and abundant than in any other part of North America. 

In superficially glancing at these resources, the mind is irresistibly drawn to 
the conclusion that, on these now scarcely populated but accessible sea lines, 
must before many years rise, not only one mighty centre of stirring commerce, 
but many other populous marts and cities of active traffic. The land is empty of 
men, but other lands are not far away where men and women swarm, and crowd, 
and hunger, and starve by the million : their babes are without food and their 
old age is beggary, famine, and hungry want ; the very waters are the habitations 
and birthplaces of millions of men whom earth rejects of sustenance and loathes 
to serve them. Such are tlie strange aspects of countries 60 days' distance from 
each other. But henceforth man shall move as far in one lunation as he did in 
twenty lunations of the past, and human hearts everywhere be quickened into more 
cheerful life, there being abundance and to spare in all these wondrous lands. 

The following outline in round figures will serve as a guide to a better ira- 
derstandiug of the status of the States and Territories which are served with 
commerce from the shipping points of the Gulf of California, in the year 
1867: 

In Mexico. — Sonora IHjOOO square miles. . . .population... .130,000 

Sinaloa 55,000 " " " ....150,000 

Lower California. 200,000 " " " .... 26,000 

Durango 54,000 " " " ....160,000 

Jalisco Y0,000 " " " ....680,000 

Cliiliuahua 108,000 " " " ....148,000 

Zacatecas 20,000 " " " ....275,000 

la the United States.— Arizona 126,000 " " " 12,000 

Utali 106,000 " " " .... 70,000 

Portions of the States of California, Nevada, 

and New Mexico, say 100,000 " " " ....60.000. 

That is to say, in the foregoing Mexican confines there are, say, 680,000 
square miles, with a population of not less than 1,670,000 souls. 

In the confines of the United States domain, there are, say, 332,000 square 
miles, with a population of not less than 60,000 souls. 

The present export values of the mineral and other products of all this 
region may be set down as within $20,000,000, and the values of the imports 
at the estimate of 115,000,000. If at entire peace from savage hordes and 
from civil wars, in one year's time these values would undoubtedly double, and 
in 10 years after astonish the world by their development. 



Y8 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 



THE LOWER CALIFORNIA COMPANY. 

The Lower California Company is organized upon tlie basis of a grant made 
by the Republican Government of Mexico, the terms of which comprehend all 
that poition of the peninsula of Lower California embraced within the parallels 
of 24° 20' and 31° north latitude, and lying between the Gulf of California and 
the Pacific Ocean. The grant, likewise, comprehends both coasts of the penin- 
sula ; comprising altogether, the vast area of 46,800 square miles. Within this 
area only scanty properties ever have been settled by the natives; while the 
few and limited grants previously made within it, by the Mexican Government, 
bave almost, without exception, been vacated for non-fulfilment, by a subse- 
quent decree of March 14, 1861. 

This grant was originally made to certain wealthy and influential Americau 
citizens in Upper California, through Jacob P. Leese, of San Francisco; but 
those parties having failed to fulfil its conditions within the jDeriod prescribed 
to them, the Mexican Government, by decree of August 4, 1866, under the 
hand of its President, Benito Juarez, permitted the said grant to be transferred 
to the Lower Cabfornia Company. This transfer was duly made at the Mexi- 
can legation in Washington, on the 4th May, 1866, and ivatified by President 
Juarez" in the following August. In evidence thereof, a duly-authenticated 
copy of said grant, and memoranda of such transfer and conveyance, certified 
by the Mexican minister, have been filed in the office of the Secretary of State 
of the United States, in order that the American Government may have oflicial 
notice thereof; and to the end that, should the present republican and acknowl- 
edged Government of Mexico be supplanted by another, and possibly a hostile 
government, the Company may rightfully claim of the Government of the 
United States that it should protect this legitimately acquired grant to its 
American proprietors, and make its recognition by such new government a 
" condition precedent " to the official recognition of said new government, by 
the Government of the United States. The overthrow of the Archduke Maxi- 
milian, however, has disposed finally of any apprehensions which may tem- 
porarily have existed as to the stability and safety of the grant ; and the act of 
the Government of Mexico, which made the grant (before the arrival of said 
archduke in Mexico), and which now reafiirms it, since he and his pretensions 
have been disposed of, renders the title a perfect and complete finality. 

By reference to the grant, a copy of which accompanies this circular, it will 
be seen that it confers upon the Company full powers of municipal administra- 
tion, subject only to the general laAvs of Mexico. It likewise grants immediate 
citizenship to the Company's colonists, exemption to those colonists from mili- 
tary services, remission of taxes upon wearing-apparel, provisions, mining-tools, 
and other of their imports — privileges which have never been equalled for 
liberality, in any grant made by a government to foreign citizens, in the history 
of the world. Such was the opinion of the Hon. Caleb Gushing, Avhom the Com- 
pany legally consulted at the time of their acquisition of the grant ; while the 
validity of the grant stands further certified to, by Hon. Ptobert J. Walker, who 
also was professionally consulted in the premises. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 79 

Upon the basis of this vast property, with its franchises and its privileges, the 
Company, through its trustees, applied for last winter, and obtained, a charter from 
the State of New York, which vests in the tnistees of the Company the power 

" Of holding, leasing, and improving lands in Lower California, and of obtaining there- 
from all minerals and other valuable substances, whether by working or mining, or dispos- 
ing of privileges to work or mine * * * and to dispose of the proceeds of all such 
lands, mines, and works as it may deem proper. * * * The said Company shall also 
have power to establish agencies for the purpose of procuring and forwarding to Lower 
California emigrants and other persons, and of owning and managing such ships and ves- 
sels as it may deem necessary for that purpose ; and to own and carry on such transporta- 
tion, on inland waters, as may be necessary for its purposes in Lower California ; or for the 
purpose of encouraging regular means of communication between any part of the United 
States and any part of Lower California." 

Tinder this charter, which does not prescribe any limit as to capital, the 
Company fixed its capital stock at $25,000,000 (to be issued in shares of $100 
each), and 0EjD;3«ized on the 9th July, 1867, by electing Wm. G. Fargo, presi- 
dent; Hon. John A. Logan, vice-president ; Wm. R. Travers, treasurer ; and 
George Wilkes, Secretary. It likewise formed the following board of directors : 
C. K. Garrison, x\ugust Belmont, Leonard W. Jerome, General B. F. Butler, 
Wm. R. Travers, George Wilkes, Wm. G. Fargo, David Crawford, Hon. John 
A. Griswold, General John A. Logan, and Richard Schell. 

General Logan was chosen by the board to be the " governor of the Com- 
pany and superintendent of colonization," which election, and his acceptance 
of the same, completed the organization of the Company. 

In addition to the above-named officers of the Company, the other members 
and holders of original interests in the grant rank among our wealthiest and 
most influential citizens, to wit : Hon. Caleb Gushing, Hon. John A. Griswold, 
John R. Garland, S. L. M. Barlow, Edwards S. Sanford, John Anderson, Ben. 
Holladay, Francis Morris, H. C. Stimson, George A. Osgood, John B, Davidson, 
etc., etc., etc. 

It is the intention of the Company, in whose behalf extensive and detailed 
surveys have been and are being made of the territory covered by the grant, to 
commence its purposes of colonization some time in December next, at which 
time the headquarters of its superintendeucy in Lower California will be made 
known, and the surveys will bo suflSciently defined for the distribution of land 
and mining interests. 

The climate of the peninsula of Lower California, is described by all travel- 
lers as being unsurpassed for its delicious softness, without being subject to 
any extremities of temperature. Its products, according to the official data of 
1857, are wine, hides, salt, cheese, sugar, dried meats, figs, raisins, dates, 
oranges, salted fish. Brazil-wood, gold, silver, and copper ores, gold and silver, 
iu marks and ounces, pearls, and mother of pearl, etc. ; while portions of its 
lands have recently been found peculiarly adapted to the cultivation of tobacco, 
opium, and cotton. 

It is believed that, upon proper development, the mines of Lower California 
will not be found inferior to those of any other portions of the continent, while 
its copper and salt deposits are known to be among the richest in the world. 
Upon some of its islands the new and valuable kind of iron, which is found in 
grains, and which is known to commerce as the titaniferous iron ore, has been 
discovered in abundance. 

Its fisheries are unequalled in any portion of the Northwest coast. This 
article of its commerce ranges from whales and seals to the pearl oyster ; and in 
relation to the latter, the eastern, or gulf, coast of the peninsula has always 
been the great pearl-fishery of past and present history. The prospect of a 
new mode of conducting "this fishery by steam, instead of by native divers as 
heretofore, is likely to give it very great importance, and to prove highly 
remunerative, perhaps, in the article of mother of pearl alone, which has of late 



80 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

years become one of the most highly-prized elements of elegant ornament and 
household furniture. Projects are already formed to utilize the other fisheries 
of the peninsula, by the means of Chinese labor, and Avitli the salt in such pro- 
fusion as it is found in several of the islands, there is but little doubt the fish- 
eries of Lower California will compete with any other known fisheries on favor- 
able terms. The great advantages of most of those productions and oppor- 
tunities is, that they lie directly in the new high-road of commerce ; while the 
peninsula itself affords the short cut by which the southern interoceanic rail- 
way can reach the Pacific coast, and take up the China and the San Francisco 
trade. 

Finally, the Company have determined to offer half of their stock for sale 
at 15 per cent, on the par value, payable, two and a half per cent, in cash on 
the date of subscription ; two and a half per cent, on the 10th of October fol- 
lowing; five per cent, on the 10th of February, 1868, and the remaining five 
on the 10th of August, 1868. It is proper to state in this connection, that 
there are negotiations now going on with the Mexican Government, which are 
likely to vastly enlarge the domain of the Company, and greatly increase the 
value of its property. The present territory, however, taken ^n connection Avith 
its commanding position on the Northwest coast, is large enough to yield, un- 
der judicious management, ample returns on any investments that may be 
made, on the terms offered by the Company'. 

The books of the Company will be opened and subscriptions received, at the 
office of the Company, No. 18 William Street, in the city of New York, on the 
30th July, inst. 

GEO. WILKES, Secretary. 

OFFICE LOWER CALIFORNIA COMPANY, 



New York, July 20, 18G7. 



f 



G Pv A N T . 

Saltillo, March 30, 1864. 

The Citizen Jose M. Iglesias, Minister of Fomento of the Mexican Republic, with the pre- 
vious express direction of the citizen, the Constitutional President of the same, and Jacob 
P. Leese, a citizen of the United States of America, in the name of the partners who com- 
pose the Company of Colonization of Lower California, have agreed to the following clauses 
for the colonization of the vacant lands of the peninsula, from 31 degrees of latitude north 
in the direction of the south to 24 degrees and 20 minutes of latitude: 

1st. The " empresarios " (managers) will colonize the respective vacant lands of that 
tract, respecting the property previously acquired by Mexican citizens by birth, whether they 
have or not the confirmation for their titles, the real corporeal occupation or cjuasi occupa- 
tion of the lands which they may claim being sufficient to give them preference. This being 
understood with regard to the property granted before the Government complied with this 
petition, but not so with the occupations that might be made afterward, with fraud to the 
prejudice of the same. 

2d. The lands comprehended between the twenty-seventh degree and the thirty-first 
of latitude are granted in all their extent for the claimed colony, reserving therein only one- 
fourth part for Mexican citizens by birth who might solicit the property thereof. These will 
also have one-fourth part in the lots in all and each of the new towns which might be founded 
by the colonists. 

3d. All the minerals, of whatsoever class, that may be found in the granted vacant lands, 
will be worked by the colonists in accordance with the provisions of the ordinances and laws 
in force in the Republic in reference to mining oper.ations. 

4th. In relation to the fishery of whales and seals in all the extent of the coast of the 
peninsula, the colonists will subject themselves likewise to the provisions of the respective 
laws in the matter. 

5th. Every " sitio de ganado mayor" (square league) that shall be occupied by the Com- 
pany of Colonization will be paid for at the rate of one-third part less than the price of the 
tariff", as a mean term among the bad, the good, and the best. The fourth part that may 
correspond to the Mexican citizens by birth, will be paid for by them on their owa. account. 
6th. Of each one of the towns that may be in the progress of being founded, there will be 



1 

J 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 81 

made a plan on account of the " empresarios," of which a copy will be forwarded to the 
office of the Minister of Fomento, and another to the Government of the Territory of Lower 
California, for the cognizance thereof. 

7th. Within the term of five years, recRoued from the day of the approval of this project 
of colonization, the "empresarios" will introduce in the Territory two hundred colonizing 
families at least. 

8th. The salt-works of the " Ojo de Liebre," and " San Quintin," which at present are 
rented by the Government, when the existing contract shall have expired will be rented to 
said colony for the term of twenty years, with the condition that there will be paid to Gov- 
ernment twenty reales per ton of salt that shall be exported from the salt-works aforesaid. 

9tli. The colonists shall enjoy liberty of religious worship, and the rights and guaranties 
which the political Constitution of the Republic of 185Y has declared as t!ie rights of man. 

10th. The colonists shall be independent in their municipal administration, in virtue of 
which they will be empowered to freely frame all the institutions they may consider proper 
for the development of their intelligence, and of their morals and good manners ; to make 
regulations for the government of their respective municipalities, provided they do not con- 
flict with the Constitution and general laws of the Republic ; to freely elect their authorities ; 
establish municipal taxes, and promote and execute all the material improvements proper to 
the welfai'e of the colonies, simply giving information of all to the Political Chief of the 
Territory, and subjecting themselves to the obedience of the authority thereof, in all those 
things wherein it might be necessary to apply thereto, and ask relief for any of the parties. 

11th. As soon as the colonists shall be established in any part of the Territory, they will 
be considered as Mexican citizens, with the same rights and obligations as Mexican citizens 
by birth, and only with the temporary exemptions which arc granted to them to insure the 
foundation of the colonies. 

12th. All the effects of wearing-apparel; all classes of iron tools that might be intro- 
duced for the exclusive use of the colonies, as well as all the provisions and things necessary 
to preserve life, shall be free from duties for the term of ten years. 

13th. For an equal period of time shall the colonists be exempt from paying for all 
classes of imposts and taxes, except the municipal contributions which they themselves may 
establish. 

14th. The colonists are exempt for five years from service in the national army; but af- 
ter that time, they will render their services therein, like all the other Mexican citizens, with 
entire subjection to the provisions of the recruiting laws. The said colonists will be under 
the obligation of serving in the National Guard of each one of the towns they may establish, 
with the view of keeping order in them. 

15th. Twenty years after the foundations of the colonies, the lands which are granted to 
the " empresarios " must be divided in such a manner that each colonist Avill not possess 
more than three square leagues. 

16th. The "empresario" will advance the sum of one hundred thousand dollars on ac- 
count of the price of the lands they are to colonize, delivering, at the term of one hundred 
and twenty days after signing this agreement, the said sum of Mexican gold in San Francisco, 
California, to the Mexican consul at that port, or to the person whom the Supreme Govern- 
ment may opportunely designate. 

PZlh. If the " empresarios " should not fulfil some or any of the conditions stipulated in 
the time and form prescribed, the concession shall be null and void, and of no effect ; even 
though they had delivered the sum advanced which is spoken of in the preceding article, in 
which case they will be indemnified with five hundred square leagues (sitios de ganado 
mayor) between the twenty-seventh and thirty-first degrees of latitude, with the particular 
understanding that at the term of twenty years from the nullification of this contract, none 
of the " empresarios " will be able to hold more than three leagues in property, each of them 
being authorized to sell, within this term of twenty years, all the lands that may proper'.y 
appertain to them, but with the condition of not giving more than three "sitios de ganado 
mayor " to one sole person. 

18th. Within four months from the signing of this agreement, the representative of the 
Colonizing Company of Lower California shall present himself to ratify and accept, in the 
name of said Company, all and each one of the clauses contained in the said agreement, in 
order that from that time it may be obligatory on the part of the Company, in the name of 
which Mr. Leese has made the said agreement. 

In due witness whereof, we sign the present agreement, in duplicate, at the city of Sal- 
tillo, the capital of the State of Coahuila, on the thirtieth day of the month, one thousand 
eight hundred and sixty-four. 

(Signed) JOSE M. IGLESIAS. 

(Signed) JACOB P. LEESE. 



82 SKETCH or THE SETTLEMENT AND 



EXPLOEATION OF LOWER CALIFOENIA. 

J. Ross Browne, Esq. : 

Dear Sir, — Herewith I submit my report of tlie peninsula of Lower California, made by 
my division of the party organized by you, and of which you were director-in-chief, during 
the earlier portions of this year. 

I have thought it best to give a continuous narrative of the whole route of the party, 
from the first landing at Cape San Lucas to the end of the journey at San Diego, rather 
than to confine myself' strictly to the territory included in the grant to the New York Com- 
pany. The reasons are obvious. The grant covers nearly all the peninsula : any material 
interests which exist in one part of the territory must necessarily affect, to a greater or less 
extent, the adjoining regions ; and, finally, there is perhaps no part of North America that 
has been, up to the present time, a more complete terra iiLcognita toHhe outside world than 
the peninsula of Lower California. We landed at Cape San Lucas, January 5th, and pro- 
ceeded to the little mining town of Triunfo, where we procured most of our outfit, and after 
making several excursions, went to Magdalcna Bay. Here we separated, and I, taking 
charge of the party, started northward, accompanied by Dr. Fred von Lohr, as topographer, 
together with a cook and two Mexicans. We reached San Diego on the 20th of April, hav- 
ing travelled over eighteen hundred miles, crossing the peninsula ten times, and visiting 
almost every point of interest in the territory. 

I remain, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

WM. M. GABB. 

San Francisco, Cal., Ilarj, 1S67. 

Our party went aboard of the steamer Continental on the day after Christmas, 186G; 
but, on account of a storm raging outside, we did not leave the harbor until about noon of 
the next day. After an uncomfortable passage of eight days, in rain, wind, and fog, we 
came in sight of Cape San L\icas, on the morning of January 5th. 

We were landed on the beach after a delay of an hour, and proceeded to the house of 
Captain Ritchie, an old Englishman, who has lived liere for forty years. The poor old man 
was in great tribulation. A party of American filibusters, with a commission from Corona, 
one of the Mexican generals, had possession of the pi-emises and were making themselves 
very much at home. Their insolence and abuse had driven away the native servants, and 
poor old Ritchie hardly knew what to do. We spent an hour or two waiting for animals to 
take us into the interior, and devoted most of the time to an examination of the vicinity. 

The extreme point of Cape San Lucas is a mass of naked granite rocks, Avorn by the 
waves and weather into a variety of fantastic forms. It is said that this place gave the name 
to California — the rocks in the heat and glare of a midsummer sun are doubtless as hot as a 
furnace, and the name of Calkla fornax is not inappropriate. 

The country, from the broad sandy beach back as far as the eye can reach, is desolate in 
the extreme. 

Rolling ground, covered with cacti of a dozen species, so thick as almost to hide any 
other vegetation, rising in the distance to the high mountain-chain of San Lazaro, does not 
promise to the traveller a very pleasant picture of what he is to meet in the interior. A 
closer examination of the country shows, however, that there are many pretty little valleys 
in which cactus is scarce, and grass abundant, so that even in the most desert portions of the 
country more or less food can be found for animals. 

Having procured a sufficiency of saddle-horses and mules for our party, we started about 
noon for San Jose del Cabo, accompanied by Mr. Brooks and Mr. ]3ubois of the Triunfo 
mines. 

Oar ride was mostly close to the beach, over the rolling grounds at the base of the hills. 
The soil was unusually gravelly, and supported an abundant growth of cactus, Avith numerous 
shrubby plants new to us. In places, there were a few acres of grass, and near two or three 
springs and streamlets were ranchitos or little huts of the herders who take care of a few 
cattle that roam over the surrounding hills, and which, from their sleek, glossy appearance, 
seemed to pick up a good living among the thickets of thorns and briers. 

San Jose, twent3'-four miles from the cape, is a little village of whitewashed adobe-houses 
■with flat roofs, most of the principal houses being built around an elongated plaza. A scat- 
tering suburb of tumble-down shanties, thatched with palm-leaves, serves to add to the pic- 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 83 

turesque beauty of the place, rather than to injure it by their squalor. Tlie population is 
variously estimated at from a thousand to fifteen hundred, including a few foreigners, among 
whom our fellow-countryman, Mr. Gillespie, stands preeminent. Mr. Gillespie, who acts as 
our consular agent and sub-agent of the ubiquitous Wells-Fargo Express Company, is one 
of the most flourishing and prosperous foreigners on the peninsula. He received us on our 
arrival, and treated us with great hospitality. Owing to the deficiency of mules, the day be- 
fore, we were obliged to leave our baggage under the care of the cook at the cape, until 
means of transportation could be found. They did not arrive until about the middle of the 
morning, and all hands were very hungry, after an unexpected fast of nearly twenty-four 
hours. After a delay of several hours, we left San Jose, and rode up the beautiful valley of 
the same name, about twelve miles, to Santa Anita. A little incident that transpired while 
we were saddling our horses illustrates so well the grasping propensity of these people, that 
it is worth recording. It shows that sharp practices are not confined to Yankees and 
Scotchmen : 

A little fellow, about ten years of age, whose costume consisted of a straw-hat, the crown 
of which seemed inclined to part company with the brim, a shirt that was one only in name, 
and a pair of pantaloons that " had seen better days," was engaged to take our animals to 
the pasture and bring them back when wanted. For this service the sum of dos reales, 
twenty-five cents, had been stipulated. After the horses and mules had been delivered, he 
went not only to every member of the party, but even to Mr. Gillespie, and thus secured his 
payment half a dozen times over. Not satisfied with his success in financiering, he thought 
he could get a little more, and represented that as he was riding one of the horses bare- 
backed," he had been thrown, pointing to one of the many holes in his pantaloons as the re- 
sult, and wanted dos reales more, to pay damages and heal his wounded feelings. Unfor- 
tunately he applied to the wrong person : Mr. Gillespie, of whom he made the demand, com- 
menced scolding him for attempting to swindle, and remarked that he had paid him already ; 
whereupon the " and I too " of all the party put an abrupt termination to further speculation 
on the verdancy or sympathy of the Gringos. The little fellow's coolness and eifrontery, 
however, were so perfect that he certainly earned all he got. 

Bidding good-by to our friends, we rode through a little paradise to the rancho of Santa 
Anita, one of the most beautiful spots I have ever beheld. Around San Jose, and every mile 
of the valley, are plantations of sugar-cane, cotton, corn, and tobacco, while in the gardens 
are groves of orange, fig, lemon, lime, and pomegranate trees, and the broad leaves of the 
plantain and banana are seen overhanging almost every ditch or aqueduct. At Santa Anita, 
standing on a broad terrace, in front of the fine substantial ranch-house, and looking down 
the valley, the black and ragged peaks of the San Lazaro shut in the view on the west ; roll- 
ing hills, studded with the tall shafts of the giant column-cactus, bound it on the east ; while 
to the south, one sweep of the eye takes in all the luxuriance of a tropical scene, trained 
and cultivated by the hand of man. To one who sees it for the first time, there is some- 
thing indescribably grand in the waving groves and long alleys of palm-trees, such as we see 
here. This is none the less true, notwithstanding that we all greeted the first oak we saw on 
approaching the frontiers, as if it were an old and dear friend, and all agreed that the sight 
of one such tree was better than that of a forest of palms. 

Starting next morning, we rode through a rather pretty country, past La Palma and Mira- 
flores, to a place called Santiago, a collection of half a dozen houses. The road lay some- 
times in bottom-land, nicely cultivated ; sometimes over a piece of table-land, composed of 
gravel, the di^ris of granite and volcanic rocks. This table, or mesa, is about sixty feet 
above the valley, and is more or less cut up by dry water-courses. 

It supports a scattering growth of bunch-grass, and affords pasturage to large herds of 
cattle. 

In some places in the lowlands are a few oaks, resembling remotely the Upper California 
live-oak. These are to be seen occasionally as far north as San Antonio, where they finally 
disappear. At Santiago there are extensive plantations of sugar-cane, and a sugar-mill was 
in active operation. The process throughout is of the most primitive kind, but the result is 
a very palatable sugar, moulded into cakes somewhat like maple-sugar, and known as pa- 
noche. This place was the scene of the decisive fight between the rival candidates for gov- 
ernorship in the last revolution, that took place before our visit. Navarette, the incumbent, 
occupied with his forces the edge of the mesa on one side, and Pedrin, the aspirant, held the 
other side. They were at farthest not more than a third of a mile apart, and consequently 
there was some risk in exposing one's self outside the friendly cover of the houses and walls. 
The fight was kept up for two or three days — one man at a time peeping out from his shelter, 
and, with fear and trembling, pulling the trigger of the flint-lock with which he is armed. 
Each party being more anxious to protect itself than to injure tlie other, the battle might 
have continued a month, had it not been brought to a sudden conclusion by one of Pedrin's 
men crawling through the canes in the bottom, so near two men of the opposite party that 
he succeeded in killing both without being hurt himself. Navarette's party considered this 
as being a little more than they bargained for ; they were perfectly willing to kill, but had no 
desire to be killed, so that as soon as the news of the death of their two comrades reached 
them, they became demoralized and fled in disorder, leaving Pedrin in possession of the field 



84 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

and of the government. Xavarette, abandoned by his forces, was obliged to escape as best 
he could, and at the time of onr visit was said to be safe on the other side of the gulf. 

From Santiago our road ran along the dry beds of streams, and across the same gravelly 
mesas as the day before, to the rancho of Los Martires, close to the east coast. Here we 
found an American, Captain Smith, an old resident of La Paz, who had recently purchased 
this ranch for the purpose of making it his home. It was quite a treat to us to see his little 
tow-headed urchins after the very dark complexions we had become accustomed to. A resi- 
dence of several years in the tropics had not killed the go-ahead American spirit of the 
captain, as was fully attested by the amount of work that had been done in the few months 
since he had taken possession of the property. Southeast from the house I observed a high 
sandstone hill, the strata dipping to the west or southwest at a lew angle. Our time was so 
limited that I was unable to visit it, but the rock, of which I saw a piece near the house, seems 
to be of tertiary age. I observed no trace of fossil i-emains by which it could be accurately 
determined. 

After spending a couple of hours with Captain Smith, and taking dinner with his family, 
we resumed our journey and rode until late in the evening, arriving at a little mountain 
settlement, called San Bartolo or Las Choreas. Our route lay for a mile over a sandy beach, 
covered with shells. We saw one or two shoals of fish, sporting in the water even inside 
the surf. 

Leaving the beach, we entered a deep canon with very steep sides, covered with brush 
and cactus, and followed it, mostly in the sandy bed of the stream, to near its head. This 
cauoH is so characteristic of the water-courses of Lower Californiaj that it is probably worth 
describing. When the heavy winter rains fall, the carton or ravine is filled with a wild tor- 
rent of water, but in a day or two after the cessation of the rain, the greater part of its 
length is a mere dry sandy bed. In places, however, where the underlying rocks come to 
the surface, it can be seen that there is still a running stream, although it is to a great 
extent subterranean. In such places the water runs over the surface of the rocks, showing 
itself first, perhaps, only as moisture in the sand, growing to a trickling I'ivulet, and event- 
ually tumbling and foaming over the rocky bed in the most orthodox manner ; but a few 
hundred yards down, it will have disappeared entirely, leaving only the dry, shifting sands 
of the arroyo. Thus, just before reaching San Bartolo, we found the sand wet, and, within 
a quarter of a mile, were climbing over rough granite masses, with the waters dashing past 
us in deep channels worn by their never-ending flow. Crossing the stream just above the 
fall, we ascended the hill-side in a darkness that could almost be felt, and, trusting entirely 
to the instinct of our horses, we allowed them to pick their way along the narrow trail where 
a false step would have been almost certain death. Half a mile of such travel, that seemed 
almost a league, brought us to the houses. Tired and hungry, we unsaddled, and, after the 
usual Mexican delay, were regaled with a supper of tortillas and eggs. Our poor animals 
did not fare so well, but, having eaten all the thatch they could reach, were turned into a 
corral, or pen, where they were fed on green sugar-cane. 

The next morning revealed a pretty and withal rather a wild sight. Half a dozen little 
adobe-houses, perched on the flanks of the steep hill, constituted the village ; every available 
spot that was not too steep for cultivation was carefully terraced, and water led to it by 
ditches for irrigation. Vines, oranges, bananas, and, in short, nearly every tropical fruit, are 
here cultivated successfully, and, together with the few cows that can pick a living among 
the cactus, constitute the sole support of the people. 

From San Bartolo our route lay along the same caiion, to its head ; thence into the head 
of another running to the northward. We followed this to its mouth, where it opens into a 
broad level valley which runs down to the coast at Ventana Bay. Crossing the valley, which 
supports a magnificent crop of nearly every species of cactus known in Lower California, we 
reached the village of San Antonio. About half a mile from San Antonio, a marked change 
takes place in the geology. 

The granite of the south is replaced by mica-slates which form the " country rock " of all 
the metalliferous veins of this region, and which extend to near Todos Santos on the north- 
west, and nearly to La Paz on the northeast, so far as our observation permitted us to 
determine. 

San Antonio is a little scattering mining town of several hundred inhabitants, including 
many foreigners, mostly Germans. Two or three years ago, there was considerable life and 
activity here, owing to a spasmodic mining excitement. Nearly all of the old mines were re- 
opened, many new ones started, and for a while there appeared to be every prospect of per- 
manent success. But a revolution came. The speculators in San Francisco did not realize 
the success they had anticipated. Mines had been taken up, not for legitimate work, but fov 
sale at enormous prices ; these sales were not made, the owners failed to send down the ne- 
cessary funds to carry on the work, and in several instances the superintendents were thrown 
into prison for debts contracted in good faith, relying on the promises of their principals. 
In other instances, the owners of the mines started in good earnest, intending to do legitimate 
work; but they were in most instances unfortunate in obtaining possession of poor or value- 
less mines. Still otiier cases are mentioned \Yhcre the superintendents were dishonest, and 
at least had the reputation of appropriating money to their own private ends, that had been 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 85 

sent down for carrying on the work of developing mines. Thus the whole history of the 
district has been for the last few years, with one or two exceptions, a chronicle of disaster, 
misfortune, or dishonesty. The result shows itself in the town. It wears a deserted, melan- 
choly look. The foreigners are, with a few exceptions, anxious to get away ; many have left, 
and more propose to as soon as they shall become able. There are many mines in which 
work will doubtless be resumed at no distant day, and were there any security for property un- 
der the government, they would no doubt be remunerative. Almost everybody holding material 
interest in the country seems to be waiting for the time when the Americans shall take pos- 
session. Many persons assured me that, did they not hope for such an event, they would 
leave the country and abandon their property. In fact, it seems to be the universal opinion 
of the whole country that its " manifest destiny " is annexation. The foreigners of all nations 
are anxious for it ; lialf the native population desire to see it, and the remainder look ibr- 
ward to it as an inevitable calamity. When the event does take place, it will be the com- 
mencement of an era of activity and prosperity, such as has never been known before in this 
out of the way and almost forgotten corner of the world. 

Across a low range of hills from San Antonio, at a distance of about four miles, is the 
little village of Triunfo, the headquarters of the Triunfo Mining Company. Here is, with 
the exception of one other, the only successful mining enterprise on the peninsula.* 

* Mr. Brooks has kindly furnished the following data : 

" The Triunfo Gold and Silver Mining Company was organized in consequence of the representations 
of a commission appointed by the government of the territory, for the purpose of interesting San Fran- 
cisco capital in the development of the mineral resources of the peuiusiila. Don Pedro Navarete was 
governor at the time. The commission consisted of Don Felix Gibert, Don Ramon Navarro, Don Salva- 
dor Villarino, and Don Santiago Vlosca— all gentlemen of high standing in the territory, and all in- 
timately connected subsequently with the fortunes of the company. 

"The first ores extracted were shipped to Europe, there being no mill in the territory, and no re- 
duction works of any kind. Tliis ore turned out remarkably well, but the larger proportion being con- 
sumed in expenses, the company resolved to erect a mill and furnaces of their own. Great good judg- 
ment vyas evinced by the directors in the erection of machinery suitable to the nature of the ores, which 
are exceedingly rebellious, consisting of sulplmrets of zinc, arsenic, antimony, lead, iron, cobalt, etc., 
in combination, with scarcely a trace of silicious matter. Withal, they did not escape the usual fate of 
mining companies. No adequate conception seems to have been formed by the company or its directors 
of the extent of the enterprise on which they were entering. Oneof its by-laws seems to have been, that 
the agent should not be permitted to incur an obligation exceeding five thousand dollars, whereas, the 
freight and duties of a single shipment have exceeded that amount. Moreover, shortly after the organiza- 
tion of the company, the mining-fever broke out in California, and probably every one of its stockholders 
had stock enough to make them poor men for life. 

" The mill, when completed, contrary to general expectation, worked the ores with complete success 
from the start; but the blunder of blunders was not wanting — the ore had not been provided. In this 
case the mismanagement appears to have been unpardonable, for subsequent developments have proven 
the existence of immense deposits. The company appears to have been much in debt at this time, and 
to have relied upon the mill, of ten stamps only, to relieve them promptly as well as to furnish hand- 
eome dividends. Had an abundant supply of ore been provided, their expectations would doubtless 
have been realized ; as it was, additional assessments had to be called for, until the mines could be put 
in better shape. As soon as this condition of affairs was realized, their superintendent was removed, 
and a new manager appointed. 

'•About this time, Don Felix Gibort, a gentleman of rare intelligence and a great friend to American 
enterprise, was elected governor of the territory. During his administration were built the wharf at La 
Paz, the foundation of the new custom-house, the fine wagon-road from La Paz to Triunfo, as well as 
many other public works of note. After the lapse of a few months the mines of the company appear to 
have yielded not only an abundance of ore for the mill, but also some for export, thus giving promise 
of the great abundance since developed ; but of course this was attended by a great additioniilexpense, 
and the company, the stock-fever having subsided, grew weary of their enterprise. Thus, just about the 
time that their property had really become valuable, one of tlie stockholders brought suit to restrain the 
directors from collecting further assessments, and the injunction being granted, the directors, to cover 
themselves as far as possible, sold the bullion shipped by their agent, and returned his drafts protested. 
Had the agent not been very prompt, this would have been fatal, lor, contrary to the general belief, exe- 
cution would have been issued instantly by the creditors upon every thing "belonging to the company, 
the bare mines excepted. This danger was avoided by their manager giving a mortgage to the governoV, 
Don Felix Gibert, in behalf of all the creditors ; and then, calling them together, and explaming his 
motives, he obtained, after much exertion, an agreement signed by all, granting four months' time to 
the company, in which to arrange their affairs. With this he proceeded to San Francisco, and, 
finding the company completely demoralized financially, he succeeded in procuring a legal meeting of 
the stockholders, who voted unanimously to dispose of the property on the best obtainable terms, ap- 
pointing their agent to proceed to New York and, if necessary, to Europe, in order to negotiate a sale. 
By this time a month of the four months' grace had been consumed, and by the time the agent reached 
New York, nearly two months had elapsed. 

" In the mean time great changes were taking place on the peninsula. The governor to whom we 
have alluded, Don Felix Gibert, was strongly suspected of a tendency to imperialism, but, in good 
truth, he had been placed in a dilemma between the horns of which it was really difficult to choose. This, 
led to Charybdis— that, to Scylla ; and while hesitating, he was spared further agony by being driven out 
of olSce. The French, it appears, coveting the peninsula, and yet not having a soldier to spare, caused 
it to be rumored repeatedly that they were about to send the Victoire, or the Venus, or the Lucifer, with 
forces to take possession. Having occasioned a sufficient degree of alarm, they sent over to say diplo- 
matically, tliat if the Lower Calil'ornians would recognize the empire, no force would be sent, governors 
and potentates, custom-house otHcers and what not, should be permitted to remain and thrive — every 
thing should proceed exactly as heretofore ; not a Frenchman should desecrate the soil ; a commis- 
sioner, and he a Lower Californian, should be appointeel just for the form of the thing — nothing more. 

" The bait took ; the governor called a meeting of the Legislature to lay before them the proposition. 
That august body wished to shirk the question, but it was delicately intimated that they could choose 
between graceful compliance and a very ungraceful one, and so, after due deliberation, it was decided to 
welcome Senor Espinosa. Now, Espinosa had formerly been governor of the territory, at which 
time Don Felix Gibert had been his private secretary, and his friend and pupil ; so, whatever Don Felix 



86 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

The Triunfo mines, some seven in number, and all lying in a compact body, belong to an 
American company of the same name, and are owned partly in San Francisco and partly in 
Philadelphia. Like nearly all of the others, these mines would have been abandoned by the 
propi'ietors, had it not been for the energy and perseverance of Mr. Henry Brooks, the very 
able manager and principal owner. At a time when all were losing confidence, because 
they did not see large shipments of bullion, and when the trustees in the States hesitated 

may have thouirht about imperial matters, he received liis friend gracefully and cordially, as in honor 
bound. Tliiii led to misapprehension, and thus it was in the nature of thinu's that when a Bmall force, 
dissatisfied with their pretty little arranijomeuts, marched ou La Paz, Don Felix and his friend both had 
to retire with remarkaljle promptitude. So far Don Felix had made a mistake — a mistake only; but 
from this time forward every step was a fatal one. If he had retired quietly from La Paz to the interior, 
he was so {generally beloved that he would not only have been perfectly safe, but he would have been rein- 
stated in a few weeks at farthest. As it was, he crossed over to Mazatlan, where he was of course 
greeted as a distinguished sufferer for the imperial cause ; from thence he proceeded to the city of Mexi- 
co, was introduced to Maximilian, received at his hands the decoration of Guadahipe, which cost him 
fifty dollars, and tints destroyed at a blow the brii^htest prospects for a distinguished and eminently use- 
ful life that ever fell to the lot of a young man of eight-and-twenty. 

" The above is a great digression ; but thus it was that when the agent of the Triunfo Company re- 
turned from the East, haviug been successful in the object of his mission, the best friend of the company 
was a fugitive, and the agent who had been intrusted with the care of his property sought to foreclose 
the mortgage in his own behalf; fortunately — although the attempt occasioned considerable expense — it 
was a complete failure ; the new company paid the debts, released the mortgage, and took possession in 
due form. 

" The new company, entitled the Triunfo Silver Mining and Commercial Company, had decided upon 
the erection of a larger and better mill, since it had been proven that the product of the mines would be 
fiir in excess of the old one. After arranging affairs in La Paz, the agent proceeded to San Francisco to 
order the machinery, and in the mean time anotlier revolution, or rather two or three of them, occurred, 
or perhaps they might be described more justly as a revolution and a revolutionary fizzle. 

" Dim Antonio Pedrin, who succeeded to the governorship by virtue of his office as vice-governor, is 
one of those (alas, i^arce aves in these days) who prefer retirement and simplicity to the honors and emol- 
uments of office ; therefore he signified his desire that a new election should be held as promptly as 
possible. The rival candidates were Don Kanion Navarro and Don Pedro Navarete, both ex -governors. 
During the election charges and counter-charges were made of ballot-box stuffing; a quarrel ensued, 
which culminated in an attempt on the part of Navarro to seize the person of Navarete ; this was foiled, 
owing, it is said, to the intervention of Americans, a very imprudent intermeddling with local squabbles. 
The upshot of it all was tliat nobody was elected, so, for a while, Don Antonio Pedrin continued to hold 
the uucoveted dignity. But Navarete, who was from San Jose, was bent on office; assuming that he 
had been legally elected, and making a charge against Pedrin of having sympathized with his rival, he 
marched on La Paz, took the vice-governor prisoner, whom he had a strong disposition to shoot, but 
finally banished. 

" It was during these troublous times that an event occurred— more fatal, for the time being, to the 
interests of the peninsula than any which liad occurred. This was the seizure of the Mexican packet- 
ship John L. Stephens at Cape St. Lucas, by Dana, an American, liolding commission under Corona. 
The act was of course perfectly justifiable, .and the steamer a legal prize, had Dana chosen to make a 
prize of her; but though she escaped on very easy terms, the company withdrew their steamer from the 
peninsular trade, and i^hus the country remained almost entirely cut off from communication with the 
world for nine months, and this too with steamers running up or down the entire length of its coast every 
two or three days. 

"The Triunfo Company were the greatest sufTarera by this disaster, for their machinery, as also a 
very large amount of merchandise and material, had been purchased under contract to be put aboard the 
steamer of May, the seizure of the John L. Stephens occurring in April. After much difficulty and delay, 
tlie company cliart.ered a sailing-vessel which, after getting out to sea, had to put back in a sinking con- 
dition. The machinery had to be reshipped ou the brig Lopud, which finally put to sea in July, reach- 
iuo; La Paz about the middle of August. In the mean time, the agent, who had returned to the penin- 
sula, after securing, as he thought, the sliipment of the machinery, unable to conceive the occasion of its 
non-arrival, crossed over to Mazatlan in a small sailing-vessel, and from thence took steamer to San Fran- 
cisco, to ascertain the occasion of the delay. On his arrival the brig had sailed, whereupon he took the 
Eastern steamer Colorado, for the cape ; but a storm springing up, he was unable to land, and was car- 
ried on to Manzanillo and Acapulco, detained there some days, as the up steamer had broke her shaft, 
and finally took passage back on tlie steamer California, to encounter a still severer storm at the cape 
despite of which he landed, at the risk of his life. 

'• From this time forward, the erection of the new mil! of the Triunfo Company and the development 
of its mines steadily progressed, despite of several additional revolutions, with a revolt of the guard 
thrown in ; for Navarette had made himself extremely unpopular among all classes. During his ad- 
ministration it was customary to levy a forced loan upon the Mexican merchants about once a Week ; an 
attempt to play the same gauie upon Americans resulted in an indignation-meeting and the development 
of a spirit which he had little expected. Several attempts were made to remove him — one by Don Sal- 
vador Villarino, which resulted in the slaughter of two horses, and a diplomatic termination, leaving 
Navarete still Gefe PolUico. Ou tlie reappointment of Don Antonio Pedrin by Juarez, that gentleman 
relumed from San Francisco to tlie peninsula, sending forward his credentials to Governor Navarete 
at La Paz. Navarete answered in person, accompanied by all the force he could muster, and advancing 
by forced marches, the rival governors encountered at Santiago, where, after fighting three days, or a 
week— I forget which— with a loss of two men, Navarete retreated, leaving Doli Antonio Pedrin mas- 
ter of the situation. 

" Withal, this is a very peaceable country (don't laugh)— nobody is ever robbed or murdered ; at least 
such an event does not occur oftener than once in a year or two. During all these disturbances, when 
armed men were running all over the country, no outrage of any kind occurred ; neither when they were 
finally disbanded. Governor Pedrin, confident in the affection of the people, has dismissed every sol- 
dier, Iceeping not even a guard. 

"As to the Triunfo Company, it has successfully surmounted all the innumerable obstacles it has 
had to encounter, and it is worthy of note that during all these disturbances its property was scrupu- 
lously respected. On the road, while native teams and pack-trains were freely taken by either or rather 
every belligerent, those of the company were never interfered with. 

'•The amount of ore crushed and roasted in three weeks' run was 350 tons ; the amount amalga- 
mated, 100, less than half of the amalgamating power being completed at the start. The yield was sev- 
enty dollars per ton, rather a poor grade of ore being worked first, for precaution's sake. The bara 
averaged 960 fine, and command the highest preminmof any shipped to San Francisco market." 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 87 

about further assessments, Mr. Broots, nothing daunted by the difficulties with which he was 
surrounded, spent his own money freely, to keep up the credit of the company and carry on 
the work. At last, stimulated by his zeal and persistency, the company came again to his 
support, and, as a result, are to-day owners of a mining property equalled in value by very 
few on the continent. The work heretofore done has been principally opening the veins, 
with a view to steady work in the future. Two of the mines have been prepared so that 
they can keep the five tweuty-four-stamp mills running for several years by the ore already in 
sight. These two mines, the Mendoceiia and the Molinena, adjoin each other, and need 
but a few feet of tunnel to connect their workings. The vein is so situated in a hill, that the 
mines can be worked to a depth of between 600 and YOO feet from the surface witliout the neces- 
sity of pumping, and as soon as the two mines are connected (in the seventh level of the Mendo- 
ceiia), all of the ore can be taken out of the tunnel of the Molineiia, thus saving the cost of hoist- 
ing. The body of ore in these mines averages throughout about four feet in thickness, very 
uniform in character, and varying very little from the average width, except that it shows a 
slow though steady tendency to widen downward. It is probable that measurements would 
show an average thickness of nearer five feet than four, in the lowest fifty feet. The ore it- 
self is a compound of sulphuret of lead, antimony, etc., containing about one hundi-ed dol- 
lars of silver to the ton. 

Mr. Loher made a series of assays from samples selected with the greatest care, to obtain 
average, and liis results varied from $90 to $124 per ton. Choice specimens of first-class 
ore yielded $225 per ton. An extension has been made on the dip of the vein, so as to give 
the present company control of the vein to any depth to which work will probably ever be 
carried. 

Besides these three claims, there are also four others, belonging to the same company, on 
a parallel vein somewhat smaller, and with ore of a slightly different character. On one of 
these claims considerable work has been done, and a large quantity of ore taken out. During 
the period of struggle for existence, this ore was worked in a ten-stamp mill, and supplied a 
considerable portion of the funds used in keeping under way the work of preparation on the 
other mines. This ore contains a preponderance of zinc, and I was told by Mr. Youngjohn, 
the metallurgist, that it is less refractory than that of the other veins. On all of the claims 
in this vein small shafts and irregular excavations have been made by the Mexicans from 
time to time, for the purpose of extracting the " azogue metal," or ore that could be amal- 
gamated without roasting, and which results from the decomposition of the sulphides near 
the surface. These excavations, trifling in themselves, are still sufficient to prove that a con- 
siderable body of ore is found along the whole line of the vein included within tliose boun- 
daries. From the relative positions, and the angles at which these two veins dip,, it is not 
improbable that they may eventually be found to be united below, inasmuch as in descend- 
ing they approach each other rapidly, and are not very far apart even at the surface. 

The vein on which the Mendocena and Molineiia mines are situated has been traced sev- 
eral miles, and the whole length is covered with claims. Some of these are held on the 
Micawber principle, while others have been opened partially, or, as in the case of the " Mex- 
ican Mines," to the extent of successful working. These mines, known as the San Pedro and 
the old and new San Nicolas, have been worked in an irregular and iixefficient manner for a 
series of years, and, in spite of the miserable manner in which the work has been done, 
proved throughout very remunerative to the owners. There is no material difference between 
the appearance of the vein here and in the mines already described. Besides these mines, 
there are in the vicinity of Triunfo and San Antonio a few that will undoubtedly prove good, 
and, of course, as is always the case, a host of worthless ones. 

During our stay in this neighborhood we were the guests of Mr. Brooks, who had been 
our travelling companion from the cape. Through the untiring kindness and courtesy of this 
gentleman, assisted by all the other officers of the company, we were enabled to see much 
more of the region in the limited time we spent there, than would have been possible had we 
been thrown on our own resources. 

After a delay of four or five days, partly spent in investigating the mines and partly in 
fighting against the inevitable " poco tiempo " procrastination, which is the most marked 
characteristic of the whole Spanish-American people, and which drove Mr. Browne to his 
wit's end with impatience, we ran down to La Paz on a flying visit. There is a good road all 
the way, for which the county is indebted to foreign energy. The distance is 45 miles, and 
this, together with another wagon-road from San Antonio to Ventana Bay, 25 miles long, and 
also made by foreigners, makes about one-half of all the length of wagon-road on the penin- 
sula. 

Our party, consisting of Mr. Browne, Mr. Brooks, and myself, started from Triunfo on the 
morning of January 12th, and rode to a rancho called Las Playitas, some 33 miles from 
Triunfo. The road is gently undulating, with occasional stretches of level ground. As a 
work of private eutefprise it reflects great credit on the company, at whose expense all the 
more important parts were made, although it is called a " camino real," and is really the 
property of government. The route lies through an undulating, rather hilly country, and is 
on an average descent from the summit of a ridge not more than half a mile from the offices 
of the company. The hills are covered with a vegetation very characteristic of the lower 



88 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

part of the territory, and this ride alone from La Paz to Triunfo would give to a botanist a 
very fair idoa of the flora of the region. On the elevated ground the two species of giant 
cactus (Cereus sp. ?) tower everywhere from 30 to 40 feet high ; with them are the more 
graceful shatls of the Pitahaya dulce, yielding a fruit said to be superior to the strawberry ; 
not so prominent in altitude, but more numerous, are the Sour Pitahayes with their snake- 
like branches and formidable thorns, while less obtrusive than any of these is the Visuaga or 
Turk's-head cactus, one of the most useful plants in the country. This is a spherical or 
elongated mass about a foot in diameter, covered with formidable spines, three or four inches 
long, crossing each other in every direction, and the longest of them curved like a fish-hook. 
Woe to the man who should stumble against tliem in the dark ! but, in this country, people 
are very careful not to stumble in the dark. The very babies learn to run barefoot where 
half the vegetation is covered with thorns like needles, and accidents from this source are 
nearly unknown. The weary traveller, dizzy with the overpowering heat of the sun, and 
parched with thirst, can find relief almost instantly by the use of this plant. It grows almost 
everywhere, from Cape San Lucas to beyond San Diego, and its bright-red thorns distinguish 
it at once from all the other Cacti. Unlike most of the others, it has no woody skeleton, and 
with a large knife can be readily cut to pieces. The interior, cut into thin slices and held in 
the air for a few moments, cools by evaporation and can then be eaten, or at least chewed so 
as to extract the moisture. The amount of fluid matter in it is very great, and the taste is 
not uolike that of green cucumber. Besides the above more prominent species, there are 
the graceful Carambuya, most to be admired because its thorns'^re short ; the Choreas, which 
have a bad trick whenever they are touched of dropping their leaves, studded with thorns as 
sharp as a cambric needle, and which attach themselves to one with a pertinacity worthy of 
a better cause ; the flat-leaved " prickly-pear," and half a dozen more of the " small fry," 
which, although hardly worth a separate mention, demand their full share of attention from 
the unfortunate, who is obliged to pick his way through a Lower California thicket. 

Of trees, the preponderance of species belong to the family of the Acacias ; the Mesquit 
and Lipua, invaluable for forage ; the Palo Blanco, with wood like ivory or lignum vitaj for 
hardness ; the Palo Verde and the Palobrea, with bark as green as grass, that of the latter 
being, as the name implies, a coat of resinous gum instead of a true bark ; two species of 
Torote, with v/ood so soft and brittle, that a green limb two inches in thickness, and without 
a flaw, broke short o9' close to the trunk under the weight of my saddle only : these, with half 
a dozen shrubs, some bearing beautiful flowers, are all acacias. Less abundant, but found 
occasionally, are the wild fig-trees, and one or two bearing excellent fruit. The undergrowth 
consists of a great variety of bushes, nearly all of which were strangers to us, and most of 
them, bearing their full proportion of thorns, fill in every available spot, and make a dense 
and tangled mass of vegetation, through which only the native cattle attempt to force a pas- 
sage. These animals, with a supreme contempt for the thorns, rove everywhere, and pick up a 
good living, feeding principally on " bunch grass," a kind of grass that exists everywhere on 
the west coast of North America, and which is one of the most valuable of our forage 
plants. 

On the north side of the road, at a place called the Calabazas or Gourds, is a range of 
granite hills, in which many traces of copper have been found. Some attempts at mining 
have been made, but so far they have all ended unsuccessfully. There arc nevertheless 
many persons here who still retain confidence in the future value of these mines, or at least 
say they do. They all seem to own shares, and are pei'fectly willing to sell at good round 
prices. Not having time to visit them, we had no opportunity of forming an opinion for our- 
selves. 

The Playitas is a little rancho in the hills near the borders of the plains of La Paz. The 
granite on the edge of this plain is overlaid by stratified volcanic ash, and this in turn by a 
very hard porphyritic trachyte, dipping usually to the west and northwest, but somewhat con- 
torted near La Paz. South of this is the high granite chain of the Cacachilas, in which are 
also some mines claimed to be good. 

Our duties did not lead us in this direction, and we were obliged reluctantly to forego the 
pleasure of visiting the district. The ores which I saw resemble those of San Antonio and 
Triunfo, except in that they seem to contain much more lead. 

The road along the plain to La Paz is wide and perfectly level, cut in the greater part 
through a monte, or thicket of cactus. The soil is good in places ; in other parts, especially 
near La Paz, it is somewhat gravelly. A large tract here could be cultivated, were it not for 
the absence of water. Doubtless, water could be obtained by artesian boring, but, from the 
thickness of the volcanic ash, the wells would in all probability have to reach a great depth 
before striking a good supply. The high range of the Cacachilas would supply more water 
than would be needed to irrigate the whole valley, but the depth necessary to obtain it is a 
problem that can only be solved by actual experiment. 

The city is one of the very few which do not belie, on a close inspection, the appearance 
they present from a distance. Seen from the road one cannot obtain a very good idea of it, 
though its white houses, nestling among palms and cottonwoods, make a picture that, once 
seen, can never be forgotten. But if the view from the land side is lovely, words almost fail 
to convey an idea of its beauty when seen from the bay. The houses are, with a single 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 89 

exception, and a foreign innovation at tliat, all of one story ; they are mostly built of adobe, 
or mud bricks dried in the sun ; the walls are very thick and whitewashed, the roofs arc flat 
and are made of burnt bricks, or tiles laid on palm-poles, and the whole covered with cement. 
The streets are mostly shaded by cottonwoods and willows, and in many of the gardens are 
the tall and graceful fan and date palms, sufficiently numerous to stamp the picture with an 
unmistakably tropical aspect. The principal part of the town is built on a low flat but little 
raised above the tide ; back of this is a very low table-land, on which are many of the finer 
residences, the cuartel or barracks, the church, and, in fact, all the more imposing edifices. 
Seen from the deck of a vessel the brilliant contrast between the white houses and the dark 
foliage of the lower part of the town is relieved by the more scattered but more pretentious 
buildings of the upper portion, and the effect is immeasurably heightened by the rugged 
masses of the sombre Cacachilas in the background. But alas ! even here is not yet para- 
dise ; one of the prettiest towns in the world, a climate with which even that of the much- 
praised Italy cannot compare, a country in which laziness is at a premium ; in fact, when it 
would seem that one could dream life away without a care, even here the picture has a dark 
side. In the months of September to November the town is subject to the most terrible 
hurricanes, ships are driven on shore high and drj% trees are torn up by the roots or broken 
like reeds, every thing that the storm-king touches is destroyed as effectually as if by fire, and 
in a day perhaps may be ruined property that has taken years to accum\ilate. It is princi- 
pally on this account that the houses are built so low, and with so little about them that can 
be affected by storms. 

In La Paz we were very well received by Mr. Elmer, the United States consul, who is very 
enthusiastic over the value of the peninsula, and who, moreover, as in duty bound, is a firm 
believer in the doctrine of " manifest destiny." Another gentleman here, Mr. Vioska, the 
agent of the steamship and express companies, very kindly did every thing he could to assist 
us and facilitate our work. Accompanied by tliis gentleman, we had a long and tedious inter- 
view with Don Antonio Pedrin, the governor. The old gentleman has the reputation of being 
a much better ranchcro than politician, and certainly the little I saw of him confirmed me in 
that opinion. The free manner in which he saw fit to criticise the acts of his superiors before 
strangers, and foreigners at that, was not at all calculated to convey a high opinion of his tact 
as a politician. Nevertheless, the thinking men of the Territory are better satisfied with him 
than they generally are with their governors, from the fact that, wliatever are his I'eelings in 
other respects, they believe him to be strictly honest and incorruptible. 

After spending two days in La Paz, and visiting the United States steamer Suwanee, which 
was lying in the harbor, we returned to Triunfo, accompanied by Dr. Wiss, a German physi- 
cian of San Antonio, wlio afterward joined us on the trip to Magdalena Bay. Our ride back 
was accompanied by no incidents of special interest, except the persistent efforts of a Mexi- 
can, who followed us several miles, endeavoring to sell us a mule for about two and a half 
times its real value. The sale was not effected. We reached Triunfo on Wednesday after- 
noon, and on Thursday, January lYth, while Mr. Browne was immersed in the pleasant occupa- 
tion of buying mules, and trying to avoid being cheated by the Mexicans, who are the worst 
jockeys in the world, Mr. Loher and I spent the morning visiting some of the mines that we 
had not as yet examined fully. Returning a little after noon, and taking a hasty lunch, we 
packed up, bade a reluctant good-by to our friends, and, with many regrets at leaving a 
place where our stay had been so pleasant, we started out, about the middle of the afternoon, 
en route for Magdalena Bay, our party consisting of seven, including Dr. Wiss Hnd his niozo, 
or servant, and Jesus Castillo, our Mexican guide. We rode but half a dozen miles and made 
our first dry camp ; that is, we camped at a spot where we had pretty grass, but no water 
except what we carried in our canteens. 

Next morning, passing through a deep caiion cut through cliffs of mica slates, we emerged 
on a mesa, covered with a scanty soil of red gravel, and in the afternoon reached Todos 
Santos, forty-five miles from Triunfo, and a mile from the west coast. The village is built on 
the edge of the mesa, overlooking the creek bottom, and contains a population of about a 
hundred souls. It consists of the inevitable plaza, with a fine church on one side, the other 
three sides being bordered by flat-roofed houses, mostly private residences, though one or 
two are occupied as stores. The most pretentious of the houses is that of Don Salvador Vil- 
larino, the great man of the place, and almost the only resident, if not the only one, who can 
speak English. We spent a very pleasant evening at his house, and found that, like most of 
the more intelligent of his countrymen, while he looked upon the eventual absorption of the 
Territory by the United States as inevitable, he was nevertheless bitterly opposed to it, be- 
cause, as he frankly acknowledged, the two races cannot come into contact without resulting 
in the extinction or driving out of his own people. He had witnessed it in Upper California, 
where, over whole counties, the local names are almost the only trace left by the Spanish 
race, after the short space of twenty years of American occupation. The gardens and fields 
here are many aci'cs in extent, and cover all the land that can be irrigated in the bottom. 
Figs, oranges, vines, bananas, and sugar-cane are the principal productions. The latter is by 
far the most important item, many thousands of pounds of sugar being made here every year. 
The spot is very prett}', and perhaps looks the more so by contrast with the semi-desert ap- 
pearance of the surrounding country. 



90 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

Having procured one more mule here, thus filling our complement of animals, we started 
about noon, and went as far as the mouth of the Arroyo de las Palmaritas, or little palm-grove, 
travelling the whole distance over sandy and gravelly flats, covered with cactus and bushes, 
without trees. We camped near the only water, a well of saltish water, dag near the merest 
pretence of a house. The rancho was inhabited by a large family, who eked out a scanty sub- 
sistence from a few cattle — cheese and milk being almost their entire food, as is the case with 
very many of the poorer people of this region. The proprietor, in blissful ignorance of any 
thing better, asked us, with all the simplicity in the world, how we liked his place ; he " liked 
it very much " himself, so nicely situated, and with such good pasture for animals. We, of 
course, admired it exceedingly, complimented him on the extent and excellence of the improve- 
ments he had put npon it; said improvements consisting of a house of upright poles set in 
the ground, and admitting of admirable ventilation, covered by a ragged thatch, a corral or 
cattle-pen, and a well of execrable water. 

The next morning, the 20th, we left our contented friend, and travelled twenty-seven 
miles over a barren sandy tract, supporting a scanty growth, passing a rancho at the mouth of 
the Arroyo de Cirrisal, similar to the one we left in the morning, and camped in the afternoon 
on the rancho of tbe Innocentes. This is a much better rancho than those we had passed ; there 
being no arable land here, it is only fit for stock-raising, but the proprietor, Senor Carvallo, is 
said to be, in the local sense of the word, rich. He has large herds of cattle, sheep, goats, 
horses, and mules, besides an enormous family of sons and daughters. This being my birthday, 
Tve celebrated it by a rather poor attempt at aguardiente punch, iiade in a tin pan, drunk out of 
tin cups, and profusely seasoned with apologies from our cook because he could not do better. 
Senor Carvallo is " compadre," or fellow-godfather to our guide Jesus, and, at the suggestion 
of the latter, we engaged one of the sons of the former to accompany us as mozo and general 
assistant. Domingo, a large, line-looking man, twenty-six years of age, had never been far- 
ther from here than to La Paz, and it was only after profuse promises of taking care of him 
that his mother would let him go, even under the especial care and protection of Jesus. And 
well she might fear, lor a more ignorant, unsophisticated, overgrown baby never left a 
mother's side. Lazy to a proverb, he was utterly useless, except when on the road he was 
placed behind the pack-mules to drive them, and there his mule carried him along without 
any exertion on his part. Like most lazy people, he was an excellent trencherman, and this 
trait, especially when our supplies of fresh meat ran low, made him a constant thorn in the 
flesh to the cook, who declared that he liked to see fair play. 

January 2\st. — Our road lay over low gravel tables close to the coast, twenty-one miles to 
a dry camp. We gave the animals water about noon, and carried sufficient for ourselves in 
leathern bottles. Near this camp we first encountered the peculiar table-lands which make 
half of Lower California. They are here represented by a very slight elevation of an impure 
limestone with obscure casts of fossil shells, all apparently belonging to living species. The 
limestone dips at an extremely low angle, sloping upward to the eastward, until it caps high 
hills with their tops as flat as if they had been planed off by the hand of man. 

Our camp being but a few hundred yards from the beach, I spent an hour on the sand and 
among the rocks hunting for shells or shell-fish. Neither I nor the Mexican, who was down 
with me, could find any thing except old shells, inhabited by hermit crabs. Of these there 
were hundreds running over the sands, hiding under every loose stone, and even travelling 
into the bushes, a hundred yards from the water, apparently in search of food. Star-fishes 
and actineas were abundant, but there was little or nothing of any interest to a concho- 
loglst. 

On the 22d we rode twenty-three miles, partly on the tables, partly on the hard sand 
beach. Our ride was varied by but few incidents. We captured a turtle on the beach, but 
he was either wounded or sick, and, as we could not determine what was the matter with 
him, we threw him into the water. He was so weak that the next wave turned him over on 
his back, and he did not seem able to resume his natural position, so we abandoned him to 
his fate, mourning that our bright visions of aldermanic fare had come to so untimely an end, 
before we had hardly had time to realize our seeming good fortune. But we were, after all, 
not doomed to disappointment. Within half a mile of the turtle, a band of three or four 
black-tail deer crossed a little hill in advance of us. I dismounted, followed them on foot, 
and, before the pack-mules were fairly unloaded, I was standing exultingly over a fine fat 
buck kicking in his death-struggles within three hundred yards of the camp. He made a wel- 
come addition to our larder, for the cook had just announced the melancholy intelligence 
that we, were entirely out of fresh meat. 

On Wednesday, the 23d, our route lay inland mostly on the low tables, except a couple of 
miles across a piece of bottom, known as the Arroyo Guadalupe. This word arroijo, meaning 
strictly the bed of a stream, is applied in Lower California to any place in which water runs, 
whether it be a deep ravine or canon, a broad open valley or caiiada, or a mere gutter. 
The Arroyo Guadalupe is at least two miles Avide, and what should be properly called the 
arroyo is perhaps ten feet wdde. There is no water in the valley, but the fine of mesquit and 
willow-trees, and the numerous patches of very green grass, show that water had either been 
there until very recently, or that there was considerable moisture in the soil. Leaving this 
valley, crossing a very rocky but narrow range of hills, and picking our way among angular 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 91 

fragments of volcanic rocks, we reached the Agua Colorada or Red Water, so named from 
the color of the rocks. We made in all about twenty-six miles, but they were long ones and 
tiresome, due partly to the heat of the sun, and not a httle to the broken and rocky nature of 
the ground over which we had come. We camped beside the \yater, which was good, and our 
mules, hoppled and turned loose, had their choice between browsing on the mesquittrecs over- 
head or eating the grass, excellent though scattered, which they could pick up among the 
bushes. 

Our camp was about a mile from the ranch-house, and we received several calls in the 
course of the evening from the men belonging to the place. 

They appeared to know perfectly well who we were, and what was our object in travelling 
through the country. In fact, they had been expecting us for several days. Even here, where 
mails and newspapers are unknown, and where not one person in a dozen can read, they ap- 
pear to keep as well posted in the news as are the people in the rural districts of our own 
country. 

Throughout the whole journey we never found a spot so retired but that, when we 
reached it, we found that our coming was expected, and our business known. The next 
morning, the 24th, we passed the house as we started out, stopping a few moments to see 
their well and pond. It proved to be merely a large water-hole, where the proximity of the 
surface of a hard rock stratum keeps a constant supply of pretty good water, a portion 
really of a subterranean stream. It is such ponds as this that enables people to travel at all 
in this country, and not unfrequently will the road diverge ten miles from its direct course 
to pass by one. The water-holes of Agua Colorada are a fair illustration ; the nearest 

water southward being miles distant, while to the northward the nearest water is 

miles off. 

At the house, we were surprised at being addressed with a civil " Good-morning, gentle- 
men," in excellent English, by a bare-footed, very ragged individual, whose counteuimce, un- 
necessarily black, with flat nose and thick lips, showed at a glance that he was not of Mexi- 
can or of Indian origin; his curly but not woolly hair seemed to imply that he was not an 
African, nor did he look like a Kanaka. He soon told us his story. He was a runaway sailor, 
spoke but little Spanish, had reached here on his way to Comondu, where he claimed to 
have a friend. The Mexicans urged him not to undertake the trip, because, alone and on 
foot as he was, and ignorant of the many trails that cross the plains of the Magdalena in all 
directions, the chances were almost certain that he would perish from thirst. Even Mexicans, 
born in the country, but unacquainted with these plains, do not dare to venture it without a 
guide ; and many a thrilling story is told, by the flickering liglit of the camp-fires, of men be- 
wildered in this sea of cactus, who, after almost incredible sufferings, have only escaped with 
their lives to tell their tales of horror. Many a poor wretch has left his bones, picked clean by 
the coyotes, to tell that he, unable to find his way out, had died from thatmosh terrible of tor- 
tures — thirst. Our dusky friend, however, did not appear to dread such a difficulty, and re- 
plied, with a little tone of pride in his voice, that he was an Australian bushman, and had been 
used to such things all his life. He did not think the risk would be very great for him, and 
thought " he could get along." Sure enough, that same evening, almost before we had be- 
come fairly settled in our camp, twenty-four miles off, he came along, his wliole baggage con- 
sisting of a quart bottle. He stayed an hour or so, got something to eat, refilled his bot- 
tle with water, and started off again. Tlie last we saw of him was at the Salada, near Mag- 
dalena Bay, where he had contracted to work for a neighboring ranchero for a v/hile, and 
where, as he informed us, he had already established " relations " with one of the old man's 
daughters. 

t'rom the Agua Colorada to tlie next water the country is very uniform. We rode 24 
miles over dry, gravelly, and in places rocky mesas, occasionally intersected by dry water- 
courses, until we found a spot where grass was more than usually abundant. We here made 
a camp, a day's journey from a drop of water. Our mules had drunk all they wanted in the 
morning, and were doomed to wait until the next afternoon for their next supply. Fuel was 
rather scarce. We were obliged to burn the woody skeletons of cactus, which, although they 
make a hot fire, require that the collectors shall exert considerable industry and activity to 
keep up the supply. 

Bright and early the next morning we were in the saddle, and by noon we reached the 
water-hole of La Palma, probably so named because there is not a single palm in sight. 
Stopping only long enough to water our thirsty animals, wo proceeded to La Salada, six miles 
from the shore of Magdalena Bay. The last four or five miles was along a pretty bottom 
with luxuriant grass and a perfect thicket of mesquit, while, as a special treat, we had but 
very little cactus. Along this bottom are ranches every mile or two, tlie Salada being the 
one nearest the coast. At the latter is a large pond, sometimes of fresh water, but at the 
time of our visit so salt from the influx of the tide as to be useless. We obtained water by 
digging wells in the sand along its margin. The sides of the arroyo here are very abrupt, 
and expose a section of nearly 60 feet thick of horizontally stratified sandstones, the upper 
beds of which are highly calcareous, and are filled with casts of living species of shells, the 
most common of which is the largo Acapuico oyster {(). Cummingii). 

On the 26th the whole party made an excursion to the shore of the bay. The mesa falls- 
49 



92 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

rapidly to near the beach, and is bounded by a belt of low, barren sand-hills. We signalled a 
couple of whalers lying out in the bay, and amused ourselves collecting clams in the sand. 

Finally one of the captains came ashore, and Mr. Browne made arrangements with him 
for the use of his boat to make some explorations of the bay by water. From the single 
point irom which we saw it, the bay seems to be as large, commodious, and nearly as well 
protected, as the harbor of San Francisco. Mr. Browne's opportunities for examination, how 
ever, having been so much better than mine, I shall undertake no description, feeling con- 
fident he will do the subject full justice. 

Returning in the afternoon, we completed our arrangements for separation, and in the 
morning of the 27th Mr. Browne and Dr. Wiss left us, charged with a multiplicity of mes- 
sages to our friends, while we remained in camp writing letters and oppressed with an un- 
pleasant feeling that we were saying good-by to the outside world for two or three months. 
This feeling was in the main produced, or at least heightened, by the fact that all the diffi- 
culties, discomforts, and dangers of the country before us had been exaggerated to such an 
absurd degree, that we almost dreaded to enter it. But even such a preparation has its ad- 
vantages. The troubles resolutely faced, proved to be such trifles, compared with what our 
overwrought imaginations had pictured them, that we were kept throughout in an almost 
chronic condition of agreeable disappointment. 

On Monday morning, January 28th, leaving our letters and last good-by for our com- 
panions with Manuel, the Doctor's servant, we found ourselves ftiirly embarked on our jour- 
ney. Our party consisted of Mr. Loher and myself, constituting tlie scientific corps; Cor- 
nelius Ironmonger, who presided over the pots and kettles, and whose fort was to surprise 
not only the natives, but ourselves not seldom, by his accounts of the wonders that could be 
achieved by the great Yankee nation; Jesus, our guide, one of "Nature's noblemen," imd a 
man who, although a Mexican, could be trusted to do his duty without watching; and, lastly, 
Domingo, who never did any thing without being told, and then only half did it. We rode 
18 miles over the same level mesa, covered occasionally with stones and supporting a thick 
growth of cactus, camping at the i-ancho of Buena Vista. Almost the first inquiry made of 
us was whether any one of the party was a " medico," or had any " remedios." Having some 
simple remedies in my saddle-bags, I inquired what was the matter. The old man had rheu- 
matism, his wife was constipated, a boy had a stitch in the side, but the girls, of whom there 
were several, and not ugly either, were all alarmingly healthy. I gave the father a counter- 
irritant, the mother a heavy dose of podophylline, and let the boy take care of himself. On 
the strength of this little incident, I at once acquired the reputation of a great " medico," 
which preceded us all the way to the frontiers, and on several occasions was of considerable 
service to us, enabling us to procure sujiplies of fresh meat through gratitude where money 
would have been useless. 

Thursday, 29th, rode 18 miles to a camp where we had excellent grass and plenty of wood, 
but no water. Started as late as we dared, so as to give the mules a chance to drink as late 
as possible in the day, and then rode up the arroyo, fiUing our barrels at the last water. On 
the way we stopped at a little raucho belonging to another " compadre " of Jesus. I am at 
a loss to account for the great number of compadres and comadres claimed by our guide. 
Either he is a very popular man with his countrymen, or they have great confidence in his 
piety, and for that reason choose him as godfather to their children, or, as I strongly suspect, 
he may be guilty, at times, of inventing this convenient relationship for the occasion. The 
presence of a very pretty young girl, and the cordial manner of his reception at this place, 
would have been excuse sufficient, were the last surmise correct. We succeeded here in 
replenishing our stock of tobacco, which had begun to get alarmingly low, and went on our 
way rejoicing. For the last mile and a half the sandstones showed considerable disturbance, 
striking to nearly all the points of the compass, and often standing almost vertically. 

On the SOth we travelled 17 miles, passing the old mission of San Luis Oonzago, where 
we stopped an hour to allow Mr. Lijher to take a latitude observation. While he was thus 
engaged, I amused myself by making a sketch of the mission buildings. The church is very 
small, but in excellent preservation. It is built entirely of stone, roof and all. Not a piece 
of wood enters into its construction, except in the door. The roof, like most of the better of 
the mission churches, is an arch of stone. Except in the two towers, which answer also for 
belfries, little or no labor was wasted on ornament : the builders having an evident eye to 
the useful rather than the ornamental. The fine comfortable house, formerly, no doubt, oc- 
cupied by the padres, is now inhabited by a family who have quite a number of horses and 
cattle, and who culivate an acre or two of garden here. The water comes to the surface and 
runs along the arroyo over a rocky bed for a few hundred yards. A dam has been constructed, 
and the water thus obtained is turned off in ditches to irrigate a little patch of peas, beans, 
maize, and onions, all of which were flourishing nicely and promising a good crop. The disturb- 
ance of the sandstone noticed the day before continued to within a mile of San Luis, where it 
culminated in the appearance of a large dike of white porphyry and with crystals of glassy feld- 
spar. This continues beyond San Luis, and is the cause of the appearance of the water in the 
arroyo. Farther on our road we encountered innumerable small dikes projecting through 
the soft sandstones, and only disturbing them for a few yards on each side. The general 
strike of these dikes is almost due north and south. These sandstones contain in some 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 93 

places large numbers of rounded, water-worn boulders of volcanic rocks, which at times 
make almost the entire bulk of some of the beds. Our camp was at an uninhabited place, 
called the "ranchito," or little rancho. A house and a band of cattle showed possession, 
but, from the appearance of the house, it seemed to have been a long time without occupants. 
We had excellent grass, with plenty of wood, and good water in abundance. 

Twenty-three miles to the Cerritos, another little rancho by a water-hole, constituted our 
next day's travel. About six miles from the ranchito we entered a beautiful valley, contain- 
ing about a thousand acres of the finest grass, with little or no cactus, with plenty of wood, 
and only requiring water to make it an extremely desirable spot for a rancho. The soil is 
excellent, and all the surrounding hills support a good growth of grass among the bushes. 
From the nearly horizontal stratification of the underlying rocks, and the appearance of water 
on the surface wherever a volcanic dike cuts across a water-course, there is no reasonable 
doubt but that wells here of judicious depth would yield a constant supply of water. It is a 
spot that will, without doubt, be pounced upon some day by an enterprising foreigner, 
who will turn it to good account. There is no fear that any Mexican will ever take the 
trouble. From this valley to the camp the trail ran over an undulating country, mostly clothed 
with an abundance of grass, growing among the stones and cactus. Horses and cattle were 
seen at times grazing quietly, until, catching a sight of our caravan, they would dash oif like 
frightened deer. 

About 15 miles from the Oerritos is the rancho of Jesus Maria; and on the 1st of Febru- 
ary we rode past this place, camping in a rocky arroyo about three miles beyond. Our route 
lay all day over horizontal mesas, cut by innumerable water-courses. The sides were gen- 
erally rather abrupt, and the stratification of the sandstones was beautifully exhibited. The 
surface of these tables was almost everywhere covered by rounded volcanic boulders, left 
there by the disintegration and washing away of the soft sandstones in which they had been 
imbedded. In some places also were flakes of selenite, or transparent crystallized gypsum, 
left there by the same process. 

Saturday, 2d, we rode about six leagues, 18 miles, mostly between higher table-hills of 
the aiToyo of Santa Cruz. We had been working toward the eastern side of the peninsula 
during the whole week, and had now gotten to where the country was perhaps nearly 2,000 feet 
high. The rocks still dipped with an almost imperceptible inclination to the west and southwest, 
and the summits of the tables, now good-sized mountains, retained a constant parallelism 
with the constituent stratification. 

We camped still nn the western water-shed, about 500 feet below the summit of the tables. 

The table-land is cut into an infinitude of fragments by the deep canons which drain it, 
most of the fragments being long and narrow, and ranged parallel, like the teeth of a comb, 
and pointing toward the west coast. Lateral branches of the streams have in many instances 
cut off fragments, which thus stand isolated from the main mass, sometimes as sharp cones, 
and in other cases as large unbroken tracts of level land. On nearing the east side of the 
peninsula, the fragments of volcanic rocks included in the sandstones become larger and less 
water-worn, many i^locks of two and three feet in diameter being found, with their angles as 
sharp as if they had been just broken off from the parent mass. 

We remained in this camp over Sunday, giving our animals a day's rest, with pretty good 
grass to feed on, while we spent the day under the shade of the raesquit-trecs, repairing the 
various rents in our clothing, incidental to continued travel among the thorns, and in specu- 
lating on what was going on in the outside world, from which we were now as completely 
separated as if we had been on some desert isle in the wide Pacific. Some time after dark, 
on Saturday evening, a man with a peculiar-looking hump on one shoulder, rode into our 
camp, and, in an odd kind of a voice, asked us a variety of questions as to v/ho we were, 
where we were going, and what we were doing. He declined our invitation to dismount, 
saying he had come from a rancho in the mountains off to one side of our trail, and was go- 
ing to Loreto to get some medicine for a sick man. After questioning us to his entiit; satis- 
faction, and convincing himself that we were what we represented ourselves to be, he sud- 
denly straightened himself up in his saddle, the hump disappeared from his back, he pushed 
his hat back from his face, and his voice assuming a natural tone, he laughingly told us all 
he had said before v/as a lie. He was a servant at the adjoining rancho of Santa Cruz, and 
he had come down to find out who we were. There was a report that Seiior Larraque, the 
sub-prefect of Molejo, was out on a man-hunting expedition, to impress soldiers to send to 
the other side, and everybody was on the qui vive to cut and run at the first alarm. Be- 
coming satisfied that, at least in that respect, we were harmless, he became very communi- 
cative, and gave us a very detailed account of the road to Loreto, this being a region with 
which our guide was not acquainted. Before he left we commissioned him to bring us some 
eggs, chickens, and cheese. Next morning he returned loaded with commodities for sale, 
including a bottle of milk. We bought all he had, until he came to the chicken, an old 
hen, for which he wanted a dollar. The usual price for chickens being three reales, we ob- 
jected, asking him if he supposed he was trading with fools. He declared he had no discre- 
tion in the matter, the chicken belonged to the " patron," and if he sold it for less he would 
have to pay the difference, or take a beating, or perhaps both. We then told him to take it 
back ; then he asked for permission to leave it with us until his return, since he was going to 



94 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

hunt some cattle. He afterward came back to our camp three times, each time falling a 
little in his price, each time receiving the same answer, " I will give you three reales ; if you 
want that, take it ; if not, take your chicken away," until at last he said, " If you won't 
give any more, take the chicken for three reales, but give me a little tobacco." From the 
first the scamp did not expect to receive more, but we were strangers, and he was only doing 
like anybody else. In Mexico foreignei's are always considered i'air game, and the only way 
to avoid extortion is to learn the tarift'; never ask, "How much do you chai-ge? " but always 
Say, " If you have so and so to sell at such a price, I will take it." They universally ask 
more than they expect to get, and fall to the regular price. 

On Monday morning, February 4th, we started up the arroyo, and travelled all day over 
very rocky ground. The whole distance accomplished was but 19 miles, of which the first 
14 were nearly all up-hill, a very gradual ascent. This took us to the summit of the range 
which, at the point where vye crossed, was quite narrow, but perfectly level. From the summit 
the whole aspect of the country is changed. It no longer seems like a rolling, hilly country, 
with innumerable flat-topped mountains. It now becomes an immense plain, cut up by huge 
cafions of almost unfathomable depth. 

This appearance extends, to the west and south, as far as the eye can reach. To the 
northwest, liowever, where the rocks are highly itietamorphosed, the contour of the range is 
changed. The tables disappear near the summit, and in their stead the crest is weathered 
into the most fantastic oudines, which, continuing northwards hundred miles, produce in 
the Sierra gigantic irregularity of form — perhaps unsurpassed by any range of mountains 
on the west coast. It is the more remarkable that these mountains should be so irregular on 
their eastern crest, when we consider that they are composed entirely of horizontal stratified 
rocks, and that, within a mile or two of this crest, they degenerate into an almost perfectly 
level mesa, sloping thence to the plains on the west coast, without a break, except where 
the winter rains have cut their deep and narrow channels in almost parallel lines. 

From the head of the arroyo of Santa Cruz the road traverses the table for a few hun- 
dred yards, and then commences to wind down the side of another arroyo that opens to the 
eastward. This descent had been described to us as a " little longish, and a little stony." 
We found it five miles long, and so full of large, angular, and loose pieces of rock, that we all 
felt like giving vent to a sigh of relief when we reached the bottom, without a broken bone in 
the party, and without having lost a mule. We camped directly at the base of the descent, 
by the side of some water-holes in the rocks, known as the " tinaja," or jar. The water was 
good and abundant, but can hardly be permanent, inasmuch as it is only what remains from 
the winter rains in pot-holes in the granite ; and, doubtless, after one or two dry years, it 
must become exhausted by use and evaporation. At the time of our visit there were proba- 
bly in the half a dozen holes about five to eight hundred gallons. We had here plenty of 
wood, and a sufficiency of grass, on the steep hill-side. As we discovered, the next day, 
we would have done better to have watered our animals, and have gone a mile or two farther, 
where there is a nice little valley, with an abundance of grass, and without rocks. 

On the 5th we followed this valley down to the coast, some three or four miles distant, 
and then travelled up the coast, sometimes on the beach, sometimes behind the sand-hills, 
and occasionally across the end of a spur of the hills to a lagoon in a beautiful little valley. 
Almost all the land passed in this day's ride is susceptible of cultivation. It is a rich soil, 
covered with a dense growth of shrubbery and cactus, and almost entirely without stones. 
Water is easily obtained by wells, and is of a good quality. At the Chuenca rancho, the 
only inhabited spot we passed, and which differs in no respect from the rest of this tract, 
there are a couple of weils, 10 or 15 feet deep, and yielding an abundance of sweet, cold 
water. 

From Chuenca we passed, by a very rugged trail, around the end of a high hill, in places 
so steep that a false step would have thrown mule and rider two or three hundred feet into 
the boiling surf below. Directly after passing this point we descended into the head of a 
long, narrow valley, which runs parallel with the coast two or three miles, separated only by 
a low, rocky ridge. Here we made camp by the side of a lake, the result of last winter's 
rains. 

After supper, leaving the Mexicans, Mr. Loher, the cook, and myself, started to cross the 
hill to the beach. We went part way, and, giving it up as unprofitable, returned, having 
worked for an hour and a half, and not having accomplished in all mure than half a mile of 
climbing, and fighting our way over rocks, and through cactus. Poor Ironmonger hobbled 
back in a dolorous plight as usual ; through one finger-nail he had a pitahaya-thorn, while 
another pinned his boot to his feet ; he was always in trouble, and declared he never could 
touch a piece of fire-wood without finding a cactus-spine lying in wait for him underneath. 
There is no doubt but what the pitahaya agave is a great incentive to profanity. 

From the "Laguna" we rode fifteen miles along a fertile, level tract to Loreto. Several 
spots, where natural bodies of fresh water exist, are occupied ; and in one cailon, coming 
down from the mountains, there is a large and flourishing orange-plantation, which sends 
annually an entire schooner-load of oranges to San Francisco. 

There is no reason why, with American energy, the whole tract, from Loreto to the 
Tinaja, should not be a continuous garden. Good water can be obtained everywhere — wells 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER . CALIFORNIA. 95 

are from three to five yards deep, and inexhaustible windmills supply all the necessary 
pumping power ; and there is no fruit or vegetable, either tropical or temperate, that cannot 
grow here in the open air. Cabbages and cotton, lettuce and tobacco, wheat, maize, and 
onions, were all growing together in a garden in Loreto, while the castor bean, or " palma 
cristi," here a perennial plant, a large tree, with a woody trunk, was flanked by the date-palm 
and banana. The gray-green of the olive trees was relieved by the dark, glossy foliage of the 
orange and lemon, their limbs bending under their treasure of golden fruit, and the vineyards 
here produce a wine unequalled by any of the wines of Upper California. Several ports 
and good anchorages exist along this part of the coast ; the best of which is the " Puerto 
Escondido," or hidden port, a beautiful Httle bay, or rather lake, completely land-locked, 
and deep enough for schooners of average size. This bay is often used by the people of 
Loreto, when vessels dare not lie at their anchorage. 

The town of Loreto, the ancient capital of the two Californias, is a little straggling vil- 
lage of adobe houses, mostly thatched with palm-leaves. The site was very badly chosen, 
being directly aside of a water-course, often dry for several years, but which, after a heavy 
rain in the mountains, is apt to become, in an hour or two, a frightful torrent. From time to 
time portions of the town have been destroyed, and the remains carried off by this stream, 
and now nearly all that remains of the old town is the mission church and its adjohiing 
buildings. The church has been deserted for many years, except, perhaps, for some passing 
priest, who may make an occasional visit to marry and confess those who have an inclina- 
tion that way. No regular services have been held here, nor, in fact, in any of the missions 
north of this, for so long a time, that many of the people would make good subjects for the 
proselyting efforts of a new set of missionaries. 

In Loreto, however, they are still near enough to the centres of civilization, so that they 
are not completely heathenized yet, and the church, though little used, is in pretty good 
repair. It is a large stone structure, with an arched roof, and a round dome of stone at the 
upper end. All the pictures that were uninjured were taken away in 1862, by order of the 
Government; but those that were left behind, together with other remaining ornaments, tes- 
tify to the richness if not the good taste exhibited in the adornment of the church by the 
worthy padres. 

The buildings attached to the church in the form of an L on one side, designed for the 
residences of the priests, for granaries, etc., share in the ponderous solidity of the church 
itself; and, after the lapse of a century and a quarter, are still in perfect repair, except in the 
single item of the absence of doors. Of the remainder of the town but little can be said. 
Three or four good houses with flat roofs, and 20 or 30 roughly -built adobe shanties with 
thatched roofs, constitute, with the church and its buildings, all that is left of the once 
flourishing city of Loreto. The population of the place was estimated by Viosca in 1862 to 
be 19. It certainly appeared to me to contain nearer two hundred. The only inference that 
can be drawn is, that the population has really increased, since Mr. V., who was over-sanguine 
in every thing connected with the territory, would not be guilty of under-estimating the num- 
ber of inhabitants. The port is an open bay, nearly semicircular, and open to the east and 
southeast. Good anchortige exists in several parts, and the bay is considered perfectly safe 
for a large part of the year. In front of the port lies Carmen Island, about twelve miles dis- 
tant. It is uninhabited except by some persons engaged in collecting the salt which has 
rendered the island so famous. It is twelve or fifteen miles long, very narrow, and without 
any hills of importance. Seen from the mainland, it seems to be composed of the same 
nearly horizontal stratified rocks which constitute the table-lands. These are slightly dis- 
turbed on the southwest side, and dip very regularly and gradually to the northeast. 

In' Loreto we found an aged Englishman, Don Tomas Taylor, an old resident, and one of the 
principal men of the place. Mr. Taylor is an honorable exception among the foreign resi- 
dents in the interior of the country. These men, principally American, are as a general thing 
the most worthless, lazy, and often dishonest men who can be found in the country. They 
are so mean that they cannot live at home, and are contented to hide themselves, principally 
out of the world, and live despised even by the degraded Mexicans who surround them. Mr. 
Taylor, although not rich, is, in the sense in which the term is understood here, comfortable. 
He is married to a native of the country, and has a nice little family growing up around 
him. None of his children can speak English, although they understand it to some extent. 
During our short stay in the town we received every attention from Mr. Taylor, who kindly 
placed an unoccupied house of his at our disposal, and who when we left furnished us with let- 
ters of introduction to various friends of his on our route. 

We spent two days here, examining the geological and other features of the neighborhood, 
and in having our mules shod. It was in this vicinity that I first obtained proofs that the 
nearly horizontal rocks of the mesa could be divided into two distinct formations. The older 
rocks are here highly metamorphosed, the metamorphic action first exhibiting itself on our route 
at Chucuca, though from the contour of the country it doubtless extends some miles farther 
south, iuland. They here also contain large angular blocks of volcanic rocks, and some- 
times so abimdant as to constitute more than half the bulk of some of the strata. The dip 
is very low, but constantly toward the westward. About six miles northwest from the town 
there is an extensive protrusion of volcanic rocks, and lying to the eastward of this are 



96 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

several hills made up of loose-grained, entirely unaltered post-pliocene sandstones abounding 
in fossils, and dipping at high angles to the eastward. I afterward found these post-pliocene 
beds lying unconformally on the other rocks where the latter were very much disturbed. 

On the 9th we rode a dozen miles to a place called Cresta Blanca, or white ridge, camp- 
ing in a dry arroyo, with plenty of good grass and wood, but no water. We found the plains 
north of Loreto along the coast somewhat different from what they are on the other side. 
The good soil is replaced in part by sand, and in part by a coarse gravel full of fragments of 
volcanic rocks. After striking the hills the post-pliocene sandstones continued to the camp. 
Here they contained sheets of selenite, or crystallized gypsum, sometimes as much as an inch 
thick. The next day we travelled 15 miles to the rancho of San Juan, still along the same 
geological formation, and camped about half a mile from the house, in the edge of a willow 
and mesquit thicket, by the side of a good pond of water. From here we went tbe next morn- 
ing to the port of San Bruno, and in the afternoon to the plains of San Juan. TIlc port is 
small and open, but is said to contain good anchorages. The plain back of it is several miles 
long, the soil nearly all of excellent quality, and covered with a dense growth of grass. The 
plain of San Juan lying north of this, and separated by a hill about a thousand feet high, is 
of a similar character, except that it contains almost no bushes or cactus, and is excellent 
grass land. All the foot hills and rolling ground at the head of the valley are covered with 
mesquit and lipua, two trees which never suffer from drought, and on which horses and cat- 
tle feed as freely as on grasses. On the rancho of San Juan is s^n old stone ruin, said to have 
been built for a chapel of the missionaiies, and it is claimed that this was intended as the 
site of the mission which was afterward located at Loreto. The story runs that the padres 
were on their way to this place, which had been prepared beforehand, when, as they reached 
the present site of Loreto, the mule that was bearing the image of the Virgin miraculously 
stumbled and fell, throwing the image to the ground. This event was accepted as an intima- 
tion of the Virgin's desire to locate here, which was accordingly done. From a comparison 
of the two localities, I am inclined to think that she or the mule showed very bad taste, but 
tastes differ. Next day we rode to the Sance copper-mine, near the base of the Sierra Gigan- 
tea. On this day's ride we had a greater variety in the geology than in any one day pre- 
viously since starting. From the alluvial bottom, bounded on one side by upiilted metamorphic 
rocks, overlaid by horizontal trachytes, we entered an arroyo in horizontal beds of post- 
pliocene abounding in fossiln ; these abut against metamorphic sandstones dipping to the 
northeast at an angle of 35°. This rock, afterward horizontal, abuts against a mass of granite 
which is three or four miles long and a mile wide, forming the base of this portion of the 
Gigantea, and v^'hicli is again overlaid on the west side by the same metamorphic rocks cap- 
ped by volcanic. The volcanic rocks also form dikes throughout the granite, and the adjoin- 
ing metamorphic sandstones. At the mine we met an American family who are part owners 
in the mine, and are here holding possession. While they treated us very politely, they took 
great pains to prevent us, by a course of " masterly inactivity," from seeing any thing. The 
shaft was locked up, and Mr. Somebody, who had the key, could not be found. Not to be 
defeated if wo could prevent it, we went to the mouth of the shaft, and had to return about 
as wise as we went. The mine is for sale in San Francisco, and I have been told that the 
modest sum of $600,000 is asked for it. My friend Mr. Ashburner, whose opinion on such a 
point is worth as much as that of anybody else in California, was employed to examine and 
report upon it, and his opinion was so decidedly unfavorable that his report has never been 
made public by the proprietors. 

The next day (13th) we lost, having taken the wrong trail and travelled all day along the 
base of the mountain. In the afternoon we returned to within four miles of our starting- 
point. All the ground over which we went w^as a sloping mesa, cut by deep arroyos and 
strown with angular fragments of volcanic rocks. Li most of the arroyos there are little 
patches of smooth ground covered with grass ; all are enclosed with fences, or have a little 
shanty to indicate possession, and in one or two we found families living. We camped in 
such a place, had excellent water, plenty of fuel, and an abundance of grass. 

On the 14th we started for the mountain, Jesus having gone out before dark the previous 
afternoon and found the trail, which was very indistinct. We climbed by a winding, zigzag 
route up, what seemed from below, inaccessible cliffs, and we suddenly found ourselves on a 
plain covered with mesquit and cactus. We had left clear weather in camp, and here we 
encountered a drizzling rain, and the wind blowing a gale. From the face of the cliff we 
travelled along this flat, between higher tables rising on each side for 3 or 4 miles, until 
these tables, constantly diminishing in height, eventually lost themselves in the plain. Por- 
tions of the route were sandy, though a great part was excessively rocky. This was more 
especially the case near Comondu, where in places the rocks had been thrown out on the 
two sides to make a road. Much of this road, the work of the missionaries, was 5 and 6 feet 
below the level of the loose rocks on either side. Twenty-four miles from our .camp we 
reached Comondu, the site of another ancient mission. We had been travelling for 20 miles 
over pretty level ground with a gentle descent, and suddenly found ourselves on the edge of 
a canon cut in solid lava over 100 feet deep, with the walls in most places so steep that a 
goat could not find a foothold. Below us lay a group of huts built of bamboo, and covered 
with the universal palm-thatch. Picking our way cautiously down a narrow trail cut in the 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 27 

solid rock, we at last reached the bottom, and on turning a point came in view of the mis- 
sion. The church was doubtless once a superior building of its class. It is now utterly- 
ruined, only a portion of the walls remaining, though what is left retains abundant traces of a 
rude, semi-barlDaric magnificence. The walls are mostly composed of cut stone nicely dressed. 
The accessary buildings are in a pretty good state of preservation, and being occupied by a 
friend of Jesus, we were at once placed in possession of one of tlie unoccupied rooms. 

Comondu proper is not the collection of huts above, nor yet the group of houses about 
the mission. It is, strictly speaking, the whole valley. It comprises a valley rarely more 
than a quarter of a mile wide, and some six miles long, through which flows a fine perennial 
stream of water. The whole bottom is extremely fertile, and most of it under a high state of 
cultivation. The principal produce is native sugar, called panoche, wine, and dried fruits. 
The laud is owned by very small proprietors, each one occupying but from two to half a dozen 
acres. Many persons resident here spend a part of the year on the coast, during the times of 
the whale-fisheries, in cleaning the carcasses of the whales after they have been rejected by 
the whalers. They take them on to the beach, open them, and obtain ten or a dozen barrels 
of oil from the interior, which they sell to the whalers. 

Friday (15th) we rode a dozen miles down the canon to the last water of the creek, before 
it sinks and disappears entirely, and camped at a deserted rancho. The volcanic rocks of 
the higher tables continue to form the walls of the canon to a great extent, though the de- 
posit diminished from over a hundred to thirty or forty feet thick. In places the rock as- 
sumed a distinctly columnar structure, though this basaltic form was rather uncommon. Under 
the lava are horizontal stratified sandstones, containing large quantities of volcanic debris. 
The next day we rode eig'nt leagues to where the canon opens out on the plains, and camped be- 
side a little water-hole of three or four feet across, known by the rather pretentious name of 
the "Pozo Grande." We had pretty fair feed for our animals, but almost no wood. A poor 
family lives here, depending on a few cows — their diet being little more than cheese and milk. 
The volcanic rocks disappeared near the plain, and the sandstones, overlaid by the post-plio- 
cene limestones, dip under the plain at a very low angle. We spent Sunday at this camp, 
and on Monday morning started in a drizzling rain for the port of San Juanico, across the 
plain. Before noon the rain was falling violently, and stopping at a clump of trees (yuccas, 
or Spanish bayonet-trees), we built a hasty shelter of blankets thrown across ropes, so as to 
make a poor substitute for a teut, and spent a miserable afternoon. We fortunately had one 
barrelful of water, so that we were not obliged to travel 30 miles to the next water. On 
Tuesday morning, the weather had cleared up, and we went on to the mouth of the Purisimo 
caiiou, where we got good grass, pretty good water, and plenty of wood. Here we dried our 
blankets, and were enabled to pass a pretty comfortable night. 

Our ride from the Pozo Grande to this place was, in one respect at least, very satisfactory. 
The plain is almost unlimited in extent ; the soil is unsurpassed anywhere ; the rocks lie in 
such a position with relation to the highlands east, as to secure an unlimited supply of water : 
the long northern arm of Magdalena Bay runs up to within three or four miles of the Pozo, 
and there is no reason why, by digging wells for irrigation, the whole plain should not be cul- 
tivated. Wells exist at many places, such as Sto. Domingo, La Soledad, San George, and San 
Xavier, and they are all shallow, and furnish a permanent supply of good water. Nothing 
but the unconquerable laziness of this worthless Mexican mongrel race has prevented the oc- 
cupation of this plain, a tract of land that can be safely estimated as a hundred miles long 
with an average width of ten miles. Where they have not water on. the surface, they are too 
lazy to dig ten feet for it. 

Sliould a successful colony ever be located on the peninsula of Lower California, it must 
l)e on this plain. Here is the only tract sufiiciently large for a large enterprise of such a 
kind, that comprises the other requisites of a good soil free from stones, and good water ac- 
cessible in sufficient quantities. 

On the 20th we rode eight leagues along the coast to the port and spring of San Juanico. 
The plains, with all their former characteristics, continue some distance beyond the mouth oi 
the Purisinia, but are very much narrowed by the eucroachment of the tables. They are 
succeeded by a long belt of rolling, sandy country, separated from the beach by a range of 
sand-hills nearly a hundred feet high in places. Immense numbers of snails {Helix areolate) 
were found among the bushes, tempted out by the rain, and the dei^d shells whiten the ground 
in some localities, as if there had been a snow-storm. They are so abundant in some of these 
places that one could not take a step vi^ithout mashing a dozen of them. This species fre- 
quents the lowlands, and is found from the Salada, near Magdalena Bay, where I encountered 
the first specimen, to Santo Tomas. Just before reaching San Juanico we met a couple of 
boys on the beach, at some rocks, fishing for abalones {HaUolis), a large limpet-like shell-fish 
found attached to stones near the low-water mark. 

We stopped a little while and collected a few shells. The locality is very rich, and I re- 
gretted exceedingly tliat we were not able to spend some time here, but we were obliged to 
leave. At our camp there was barely enough grass for one night, and all the wood we could 
get was the very little we could collect on the beach. The spring is on a barren hill-side, and 
is slightly sulphurous. Only a little marsh-grass grows around it, and in the vicinity is a 
small quantity of bunch-grass. The port is semicircular, opens to the southwest, and is 



98 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

about five or six miles across. The anchorage is reputed good, and there are no rocks in the 
bay. The country adjacent is so perfectly worthless, however, that there will probably never 
be any use for a harbor here, unless as a shelter for passing vessels, or a place to replenish 
their supplies of water. 

From San Juanico we started southeast on our way to Purisima, riding five leagues to a 
fine deep pond in the airoyo San Gregorio, at a place called the Mesquital. The termination 
al is applied to a grove or thicket of any kind of trees or plants, — thus, a mesquital is a grove 
of mesquit-trees, a saucal, of sauce or willow-trees, etc. The mesquital is a dense grove of 
mesquits in a piece of bottom-land bordered by rocky mesas. We had an excellent camp, 
with the best of water and an abundance of wood, the mules browsing on the tender twigs of 
the mesquit. Our road to this place was partly among some barren rolling hills, partly over 
a mesa of loose volcanic rocks. There are here two distinct terraces, the lower about fifty 
feet high, the other about one hundred feet above the first. The upper one is capped by a 
sheet of volcanic rocks, which continue almost unbroken to the summit of the Sierra Gigantea. 
The volcanic tables usually support a scattering growth of various species of cactus, with an 
admixture of shrubby plants and small trees. Of the latter, one of the most striking is the 
Palo Adan or Adam's tree, the bark of which is much used in washing, making a very good 
lather like soap, and having strong detersive properties. It is a ragged and naked-looking 
plant, grows ten to fifteen feet high, the branches often springing from a trunk not six inches 
high, and continuing straight and without a twig to the extreme tips ; in some cases it is 
more arborescent in form, but its peculiarity is that the branches^'arely divide and never send 
out twigs ; the leaves grow directly on the branches, are very much of the size and form of the 
box-leaves, and grow in groups of two or three, while just below each group is a spine an inch 
long, perfectly straight, and as hard and sharp as a needle. The flowers are a brilliant scarlet, 
and grow only on the extreme tips of the branches. 

The lomboi, another peculiar plant, found nearly the whole length of the peninsula, also 
flourishes here. It is a small tree, rarely more than ten feet high, with soft, brittle wood, thick, 
clumsy branches and twigs, and leaves a little over an inch across, and very sparsely distributed, 
so as to give the tree a naked look. On cutting the twigs or branches, a very fluid, milky- 
looking sap exudes abundantly. This sap, on exposure to the atmosphere and light, turns 
black as prom[)tly as a solution of nitrate of silver, and is equally indelible. White cotton or 
linen clothing hung on these bushes to dry is almost. certain to be stained by the sap. 

February 22d, we rode six leagues across the same rocky tables as the day before, to the 
old mission of Purisima, in a deep canon of the same name. On the way I shot a hare, cut- 
ting off both his forelegs, and even then he managed to elude the whole party for at least ten 
minutes, dodging from one bush to another. Our appearance pursuing the poor little wretch 
with sticks and stones was, doubtless, far more ludicrous than dignified. These animals are 
the commonest of all the game in Lower California, and not unfrequently furnished all the 
fresh meat we could obtain for a week or two together. The trail descends from the mesa 
into the Purisima Arroyo, about a league lielow the town, and winds along the hill-side most 
of the way, bounded by a marsh on one side and by overhanging cliffs of volcanic rocks on 
the other. A beautiful natural section is here exhibited ; the older sandstones lie in broad, 
gentle undulations, capped by post-pliocene shales and limestones deposited on the denuded 
surfaces, while covering all is a sheet of trachytes, varying from 50 feet thick, to where de- 
nudation has carried away all hut some loose fragments scattered over the surface. Just 
above the town is a peoulinrlooldng hill, isolated from the surrounding mesa — sloping up in 
a pretty regular cone, and surmounted by a level cap of basaltic trachyte so abrupt on the 
sides, that it is said human foot has never trod the SlHlimit, It is said that from the head of 
this canon there is a pass, not more than a hundred feet high, opening in the phiiu of Snn Juan, 
above Loreto. We were unable to visit this pass, and can only mention it as a piece of 
hearsay information for what it is worth. The bed of the canon is more or less rocky 
throughout, and the water runs, as a consequence, on the surface, instead of being subter- 
ranean, as is usually the case. Where the trail enters the cafion there is a pretty little water- 
fall of eight or ten feet higli, the water making a sheer leap of that distance, and forming a 
deep pool very suggestive of silver-sided trout. In any other country this would be an ex 
cellent trout-stream, but in Lower California things never are as they might be expected to 
be, and he who would. evos look for "suckers" here would be doomed to disappointment. 
At this waterfall a splendid mill-site could be obtained, the body of water being large and per- 
manent, and sufficient fall existing to supply all the power necessary. A considerable tract 
of unoccupied ground exists below the fall, said to be subject to overflow during the heavier 
freshets, hut with a trifling expenditure this could be obviated. Viosca says, " In olden times, 
the Purisima furnished grain to all the other missions." The land now under cultivation is 
but a small part of what could be rendered available, being but a few hundred acres in all, al- 
though the cafiou is from a hundred yards to half a mile wide, and several miles long. Vines, 
figs, oranges, cotton, peas, beans, wheat, sugar-cane, and many Northern vegetables are raised 
here almost witliout labor. In addition to what is consumed on the spot, about a thousand 
cargoes, of three hundred pounds each, of dried fruits, are exported from here annually, 
be sides considerable quantities of panoche and wine. The population was estimated in 
18G1 to be 250. The inhabitants are so scattered that it would be difiicult for a mere passer 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 99 

to arrive at any thing like a satisfactory estimate, but it can hardly vary much from that 
number. 

At the mission is quite a village, of perhaps 20 or 30 houses, mostly poor, roughly built 
shanties. One of the poorest was inhabited by the only foreigner, an Englishman, whose 
appearance and habits were very much in keeping with his home. 

As we entered the village, he came running across a garden to meet us, and in reply to 
our question about a spot for camp, incontinently took possession of us, bag and baggage. 
In spite of our protests he took us to his house, as we fondly supposed, prompted by feel- 
ings of hospitality ; but, as the result proved, so as he could have us more to himself, in 
order to fleece us at his leisure, uninterfercd with by similar efforts on the part of his neigh- 
bors. 

On the whole, however, it is doubtful whether we were not the gainers by this arrange- 
ment. He procured us good pasturage for our mules in somebody else's " potrero," and 
while he took good care that he sliould make all he could from us, he guarded us jealously 
against imposition from anybody else, so that we were only moderately cheated by one man, 

instead of being robbed by the whole village. Don Pedro M made a successful raid on 

us, or rather used us as a pretext for a pretty good general speculation. He announced a 
ball to be given in honor of the Americanos. When the evening came, we went to his house 
and found everybody, his wife, all of his children, and not a few of his servants assembled 
there, the ladies ranged round one end of the room on chairs, benches, and bedsteads; the 
male portion of the company was huddled into the other end, in positions often more pic- 
turesque than decorous. Costume was a matter of little moment, convenience being con- 
sulted rather than the arbitrary rules of fashion. Mr. Liiher's pantaloons, covered with 
parti-colored patches, were unnoticed, and mine of dark cloth, profusely reenforced ivith 
white buckskin, failed to attract attention. The dancing was kept up almost without inter- 
ruption, but the dancers found time to refresh themselves quite frequently. In an adjoining 
room Don Pedro had a barrel of wine "on tap," from which lie treated his guests for the 
slight consideration of a real a glass. Judging from the effects, the affair must have been 
profitable: by 11 o'clock some of the "gentlemen" were becoming affectionate, others noisy, 
and a few sleepy. Thinking discretion tlie better part of valor, we made our adieus and re- 
tired as quietly as possible, but long into the night we heard the shouts and singing of those 
who didn't want to " go home till morning." 

Our host's wife, like most of the women of this country, has a much higher opinion of 
foreigners, or rather, of the whites, than of her own countrymen. It seems to be the highest 
ambition of these women to marry a white man, and many of them, married to Mexicans, are 
more proud of a child with suspiciously-light hair and eyes than they are of their swarthy, 
though legitimate offspring. So with our hostess: she seemed to be very proud of her 
guests, and was untiring in her exertions to show us, by every means in her power, how 
highly she appreciated the honor of entertaining us. This took a rather embarrassing form 
as we were saying good-by. When I approached her for that purpose, she made a motion 
to embrace me in the manner of the country. Not being accustomed to such cordial treat- 
ment from her sex, and being a bashful man, I instinctively retreated out of arm's length, 
much to the confusion of the lady, and the amusement of my companions. Had she been a 
little cleaner, a little prettier, and not quite so public in her demonstrations, I think I might 
have submitted ; as it was, with a blundering apology I shook hands with lier, and, abashed 
by her ill success with me, she did not attempt it with my companions. 

While in the town we visited the church. It is neither large nor pretty. Four walls, 
roughly built, support a new palm-thatch, and on the door, also new, is a scrawling inscrip- 
tion, that Don Fulano de Tal repaired this church, in 1S59, at his own expense. There were 
a numljer of images inside. A plaster cast of a Roman soldier, with a helmet, sword, and 
shield, does duty as the Virgin, having his inappropriate accoutrement covered up by a taw- 
dry mass of cheap finery. An artist's common wooden lay-figure, with all its ugliness is also 
rigged out in an alarmingly modern manner to represent Saint Somebody or other, while on 
the altar is a crucifix entirely out of keeping with the rest of the establishment. The original 
cross is gone, and is replaced by a couple of rough sticks tied together ; but the image of the 
Saviour, about a foot in length, is really a fine work of art. It is carved in some soft wood, 
now gray with age, but the position, the muscular anatomy, and the expression of the face, 
are excellent. 

On the 25th we rode six and a half leagues from Purisima across rocky tables to the up- 
per part of the San Gregorio Arroyo again. On the road we passed a rancho, called Old 
Purisima. The principal occupation of the people here appears to be the manufacture of 
mescal, a strong, highly alcoholic liquor, made from the sap of the maguey-plant. The 
plant is selected just as it is about to send out its flower-stalk ; all the leaves are cut off 
leaving a core not much larger than a man's head. This is crushed, the sap allowed to fer- 
ment, and is afterward distilled. The liquor thus obtained is as limpid and colorless as 
water, but excessively alcoholic, and with a harsh, rasping taste like new whiskey. N^ext day 
we travelled seven leagues up the arroyo over an excessively rough, rocky route ; most of 
the way without a trail, our mules being obliged to pick their way, as best they could, among 
the rocks and boulders, stumbling at every step, but never falling. We eventually came out 



100 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

on a little flat of a few acres, reasonably free from stones, with plenty of grass and wood, 
and a sufficiency of water among some rocks. 

Glad to find such a place, and fearful that we would not find such another if we went on, 
we made camp at once. Along all of this day's ride the rocks were more or less disturbed 
and highly metamorphosed ; the model fossiliferous rocks of the coast having entirely disap- 
peared. 

From this place, known as the Zapote, we rode, the next day, five and a half leagues, 
leaving the Arroyo Guadalupe, crossing a very rocky and steep ridge with a flat top, and 
descending by a long, winding, and steep descent into a broad, open valley which runs down 
to Moleje. After crossing the I'idge we found at its base a good-sized spring of pleasant 
water, and, after filling our barrels and watering the mules, we pushed on into the valley, 
making a dry camp with an abundance of grass and wood. Although the distance travelled 
was not great, the road made up in height and roughness what it wanted in length. From 
here we pushed on, and reached Molejo in six leagues farther ; riding down the valley, most 
of which is flat grass-land, with good soil, without stones. No water exists, except a few small 
springs near the edge of the hills. The rocks are all liighly metamorphosed, but no volcanic 
rocks were seen, even where we crossed the summit the day before. 

Moleje is a small, straggling village of adobe houses, with a population of, perhaps, a couple 
of hundred persons. It has a dull, deserted look. The ditch that supplies water to the gar- 
dens had been broken two years, and eff"orts were just being made to repair it. We had a 
letter of introduction from the governor to Seiior Larroque, the^ub-prefect of the place, and, 
on presenting it, were received very kindly. The government building, which serves the 
joint purposes of calaboose, barracks, arsenal, and government offices, was placed at our 
disposal, and Seiior Larroque did all in his power to make us comfortable. 'We found him 
a very accomplished gentleman, and a man of the world, and were rather suprised to meet 
such a person living in such an out-of-the-way place. There were several other gentlemen 
here, to whom we were introduced, and who contributed toward making our short stay 
very agreeable. These gentlemen make a little coterie among themselves, and thus serve to 
lighten somewhat the tedium of what vrould otherwise amount to little less than practical 
banishment. 

Moleje contains no ruins, except the broken-down walls of an old church, now almost en- 
tirely demolished. The port is merely a little creek, navigable part way for very small 
vessels. The bay of Molejo is farther to the southward. Poor Domingo, our mozo, has 
some unpleasant recollections of the town. He was shamefully swindled by a rascally 
Frenchman, named Abadie, in a mule-trade. Abadie, who keeps a store here, took a fancy 
to an extra horse that Domingo had with him, and offered a very good-looking mule for him. 
Domingo, not suspecting any trick, bit at the bait, made the trade, and, when it was too late, 
found that the mule was so badly sprained in the back as to be worthless. With the coolest 
effrontery, Abadie followed us to our camp that evening, and, on Domingo's complaining of the 
cheat, offered to buy tht mule for nine dollars. The poor boy had no redress, and took the 
money i-ather than lose all. 

Our stay at Moleje was very short. We left the afternoon of the day after our arrival, 
and, riding across some rolling hills, camped early in a little valley with rather poor grass, 
but the best to be had for a long distance. We saw something of the filmed gypsum deposits, 
and were decidedly disappointed. The quantity is very much less than has been represented, 
and I consider it extremely doubtful if it could ever be rendered profitable, unless other de- 
posits, which we did not see, may prove more extensive and accessible. 

From the hills we emerged into the plains of Magdalena, as they are called. Tliey must 
not, however, be confounded with those on the west coast, near Magdalena Bay. These 
plains, several miles wide, extend along the coast, northward, almost to the volcano of the 
Virgins. 

A portion of the tract has been acquired by a company, organized in San Francisco for 
the purpose of founding a colony here. Such folly or dishonesty, as the case may be, can- 
not be too strongly reprehended. If the company chose this land on mere hearsay, their 
carelessness is culpable; and if it was recommended by a person who was acquainted with it, 
he was guilty of a direct attempt at swindling. There is not a drop of fresh water on the 
property of the company ; but that is not so important a matter, since water could doubtless 
be obtained from wells. The great objection is, there is not an acre of land in the tract that 
can be cultivated, so thickly is the surface strewed with rocks. 

Such an enterprise as this is the more to be condemned by all honest men, because the 
victims are usually poor men, who invest their little all in the vain hope of securing a home, 
and find out their mistake when it is too late. A similar outrage was perpetrated a few 
years ago at Ventana Bay, south of La Paz, and some of the stories of sufferings and hard- 
ships to which the luckless victims were subjected are truly heart-rending. The memory 
of them is still fresh in the minds of the people of that country. 

The mission of Guadalupe is situated on the edge of the Magdalena plain, at the mouth 
of the caiion of San Jose. The buildings are entirely destroyed, their foundations only 
remaining in part. A fine aqueduct exists here, several miles long, partly cut in the rocks, 
and in other places built of solid mason-work. It is now so broken down as to be useless, 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 101 

though it could be repaired. It was constructed for the purpose of irrigating the few acres 
of arable land near the mouth of the cauon, and was, beyond question, the finest work of the 
kind in Lower California. It is in many places filled up, and large bushes and trees grow in 
and around it. 

San Jose is about three leagues from the mouth of the canon. We rode directly through 
the village, and camped in the bottom, a little beyond. Here is quite a large pond of good 
water, which might almost be called a spring. It is there the subterranean stream first 
reaches the surface. It afterward sinks, and reappears a number of times, as the rocky bed 
approaches or recedes from the surface. Farther down it becomes a permanent and con- 
tinuous stream, running to the mouth of the caiion. At the camp we had hardly a blade of 
grass, but the mules did well, browsing ou the lipua-trees, which form a thick grove. 

From San Jose we travelled up the dry arroyo, across rocky tables and rolling hills, to 
another arroyo, until we reached the deserted rancho of Dorotea, by a little water-hole. The 
water, what is left from the winter rains, in a rocky basin, is much resorted to by a band of 
cattle scattered over the surrounding hills, and we, as a consequence, had the pleasure of 
drinking a suspicious fluid with a decidedly cowy odor and taste. It was as green as grass, 
perfectly opaque, and seemed actually putrid. But we were glad to get it, although it gave 
the cook another opportunity to growl at the country, and one of which he availed liimself to 
his heart's content. We were now f lirly in the mountains ; the main ridge here retreats to 
some distance from the coast, and the intervening country is a mass of rugged, barren hills, 
with scattered patches of grass-land in the valleys. Water is very scarce, and usually poor 
when found. The rocks are all metamorphic, and comparatively very much disturbed, being 
folded with a general northwest strike. 

On the morning of the 4th we left the Dorotea, without a regret, and crossing a nil m- 
b?r of ridges from 200 to 400 feet higher than the included valleys, we at last ascended the 
face of the main chain, climbing about 600 feet of a pretty steep triiil. From the summit we 
could see almost to the plains on the west coast, the view being only interrupted by the haze 
hanging low over the lowlands. The valley which we left opens either at or near Sta. Aguida, 
about '25 miles north of Moleje, and within very easy access of several small ports. 

Should it be desirable to build a railroad across the peninsula at this point, this ascent 
is the only obstacle that would be encountered from coast to coast, and there is plenty of 
room to make an easy grade on the hill-side to surmount it. Tiiere are other points, how- 
ever, which, from the hasty glance which alone we were able to give them, seemed preferable 
to tliis. The pass of the Infierno is probably better than this, and still better than either is 
the route by way of Calamujuet. From the point where we first struck the summit, there is 
a gradual and gentle descent all the way to the plains. The trail follows down a caiion 
to the little rancho of Sta. Cruz, and thence, partly in the caiion, and partly on very rocky 
raesii, to San Ignacio. We went about two leagues below Santa Cruz, about eight leagues 
in all from Dorotea, and campsd beside a water-hole, turning our mules out on the mesa to 
pick the grass from between the stones. Just as we struck the summit we encountered a 
dike of trachyte, 25 or 30 feet thick, striking northwest, o.nd running a mile and a half in a 
straight line, protruding above the surface like a colossal wall. One or two other parallel 
dikes were seen, but no lateral outflow could be detected. If any ever existed, it had prob- 
ably been carried away by denudation. 

Next morning, March 5th, we rode eight leagues, mostly over flat tables, strewn with a 
profusion of volcanic debris, to San Ignacio. Passed a beautiful volcanic cone, and had an 
excellent view of the volcano of the Virgins. It bears a striking resemblance in form to 
Monte Diablo, presenting from this side two points, one slightly higher than the other, while 
the flanks slope off at a low angle. 

Approaching San Ignacio, tlie post-pliocene of the coast again presents itself, inserted 
with a thin edge between the older rocks and the volcanic, gradually widening out until at 
San Ignacio it makes all the section where the mesa is cut by the arroyo. 

San Ignacio is a village with a population, including the suburbs, of about 20 families. 
The only buildings of any importance in the place are those belonging to the mission. The 
others are mere shanties. The church buildings, consisting of the church itself, and two 
lateral wings, one of which is prolonged into an L, are in excellent repair, and are the most 
imposing buildings of this class in the territory. They are very solidly iDuilt of stone with 
arched roofs, being out so as to be flut on top. The church is in the form of a Latin cross, 
and has a hemispherical dome of stone, at the intersection of the cross. There is a fine 
commodious gallery for the choir, also of stone, and, in fact, no wood enters into the con- 
struction of the building, except the doors, unless it may be some of the lintels. The orna- 
ments which vandalism, sacrilege, and the poverty of the Government have left are still sufficient 
to show that neither expense nor labor was spared to make this the most elaborate church 
in Lower California. 

The buildings all stand on a terrace, partly artificial, about four feet high in front and 
ten feet behind, very carefully walled up with stone. 

The place is occupied by Don Ventura Arce, a jolly, fat old fellow, who lives here in 
in truly patriarchal style, surrounded by a troop of his children and grandchildren. Tiio 
gardens are very extensive, perhaps more so than any others north of La Paz. Grain of 



102 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

various kinds, beans, and all sorts of vegetables are raised in abundance, while tliousands of 
date-palms, growing spontaneously, yield their proprietor a large income. Besides these, figs, 
olives, grapes, and pomegranates are cultivated extensively, and sugar-cane is raised to such 
an extent, that panoche is an important article of export. A perennial superabundance of 
running water relieves San Ignaeio from all fear of drought, and the only labor necessary is 
to keep open the irrigating ditches, and collect the crops. With industry, energy, and intel- 
ligence, the capacities of the place could be trebled in live years. 

The residents here claim that a good port exists below here, which they call the " Lagu- 
na." I had not time to visit it, but Captain Scammon, who is familiar with every nook and 
comer of this coast, has doubtless described it in full in his report. It is said to be simihir 
to Scammon's Lagoon, though smaller, and empties into Ballenas Bay. 

We brought a couple of letters of introduction to Don Ventura, who received us kindly, 
and placed us in an unoccupied room in the mission buildings. We spent a day here, wait- 
ing for some mules to be brought in, and, as is always the case, they could not be found 
unt-l the next morning. When they were brought in we made an exchange, getting a fresh 
animal in place of one of our pack-mules, and in the afternoon sallied out, more for the pur- 
pose of getting a start thau because we expected to travel any distance. 

After a promiscuous hand-shaking with nearly the vi^hole town, we made our escape, and 
rode about a league, half of which was over unoccupied bottom-lands in the arroyo, that 
could at but little expense be all rendered available for cultivation. Most of this land is pro- 
tected by heavy embankments of stone, built by the Indians uiuler the missionaries, to con- 
fine the winter torrents within their proper channels. After leaving the arroyo we travelled 
over a very table to near the base of a volcanic ridge, and camped in the midst of a thicket 
of cactus on a bed of red pumice, the only place where we could find sufficient grass for our 
animals. For fuel we had only the woody skeletons of cacti. 

On the next morning we left camp with many misgivings. We had to undertake the long- 
threatened and much-dreaded passage of the Infierno, — the worst pass of Lower California. 
We had heard of this pass ever since we entered the country, and before we left San Ignaeio 
we received the cheering intelligence that it was worse than ever. We rode between four and 
five leagues over rocky t-.ibles, with obscure traces of a road that may have once existed ; 
that is, there were fewer rocks where we went than there were on either side of us, until at last 
we I'eached a place where the road was evidently artificial. In some places it was cut in 
hill-sides, in others, it was cleared of all the larger rocks, so that travelling was comparative- 
ly easy. Eventually we entered a caiion, and here the road-way was a regular dug-way, or, 
more properly speaking, what remained of one. In fact, where it was not broken by the 
rains, it was almost wide enough to drive a wagon; but the frequent jump-offs and jump- 
overs would have tested to the utmost the strength of the best " Concord." 

In some places it was almost impossible to ride across the gullies worn by the rains of 
half a century. But vv'c soon found that we had antedated our troubles. We kept up the 
canon, between beetling cliffs that threatened to bury us under a cairn more bulky, if not 
more honorable, than ever covered the remains of any Celtic hero, until at last we could not 
tell, two hundred yards ahead, which way we would have to turn to find our way out. The 
road, however, was well marked, aijd our guide had been through it before. Beaching the 
end of the caiion proper, it struck up a side branch, the steepness of which would have been 
appalling, had we not been forewarned. We picked our way, as best we could, around and 
over the watei'-worn boulders, often using the united inducements of lash, spur, and voice to 
persuade our cautious mules to undertake some difficult feat, until at last even the Mexicans 
dismounted, considering it unsafe to ride farther. Finally we were obliged to halt the pack- 
train, and after driving our saddle-animals through the rest of the bad part of the pass, we 
unloaded packs and pack-saddles, carried them ourselves to smooth ground beyond, drove 
up the pack animals, and reloaded. 

Ironmonger, the cook, as usual, had more than his share of trouble. It had been his 
boast that little Johnny, his mule, was so docile, that he would do any thing he was told. 
After 15 minutes of hard work, during which he skinned his knuckles, and did irreparable 
damage to his temper, he found it necessary to call in the united assistance of the whole 
party to persuade Johnny to pass a narrow place between two rocks. (Mem. — Ironmonger 
never boasted about the wonderful docility of his mule afterward.) 

But, joking aside, the condition of this pass is disgraceful. The united labor of three 
men for one week would make it, if not a good I'oad, at least very passable. All that is 
required is to throw large stones into the worst holes, or to cut ati'ail on the hill-side around 
two or three bad places. Yet, persons who have lived in this vicinity all their lives, and 
who cross this pass many times every year, while they say it ought to be repaired, never think 
to do the first thing tticmselves toward accomplishing that object. 

Having passed the Infierno we descended on the opposite side of the ridge into a rocky 
flat, which extends to the east coast, and camped at the deserted ranch of Santa Marta. 
Here we had every thing that goes toward making a desirable camp — wood, water, and 
grass. By previous arrangement with Don A^'entura Arcc, to whom this rancho belongs, and 
who had some cattle here, we killed a yearling calf, jerked the meat, reserving as much as we 
gould eat fresh, and had a general overhauling of our wardrobes, washing and mending 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 103 

wherever it was needed. In both these latter operations we had become so expert that the 
poorest hand in the party would be able to start in business, either as laundry man or tailor, 
without further preparation, and with reasonably ftiir prospects of success, especially if his 
customers were not particular. 

On the l"2th we rode seven leagues past Rosarito, where there are a spring and a deserted 
mining-camp, to a spring on the eastern base of the mountain called San Juan. After leaving 
the arroyo of Sta. Marta we crossed a valley ten miles wide, mostly more or less rocky, though 
with some good soil. 

At Rosarito there is a fine spring of good water under the bank in the head of a little 
arroyo. This iS so inconspicuous that it is doubtful whether a person unacquainted with the 
country could find it. Near it is an old arastra, and the other appurtenances of a mining- 
camp long since deserted. Some futile attempts have been made to mine the little strings of 
quartz found in the metamorphic sandstone of the high range back, but the quantity of gold 
has proved too sm;ill to be remunerative, or the vein had given out. From Rosarito to our 
camp the ground was a succession of barren ridges separated by sandy arroyos. The spring 
of San Juan is off to one side of the main trail a mile or two, in a deep caQon. The water is 
much warmer than the surrounding atmosphere, being 78° Fahr. at six p. si., when the air 
was but 57", the coldest day we had had so far. 

March 13th, we crossed the main ridge again, and, entering the head of a caiion, proceeded 
down it to Santa Gertrudes. The route is very rocky, but, after the Infierno, any road seemed 
good. The rocks of the eastern side of this portion of the peninsula are everywhere much 
disturbed, but on approaching Sta. Gertrudes they become again horizontal. The elevating 
force evidently came from the more modern volcanic rocks and from the granite intrusions, as 
is here beautifully illustrated. A belt of granite crosses the arroyo so as to bring to the sur- 
face a fine body of water ; but the overlying sandstones are horizontally stratified and not in 
the least disturbed by it, the lower beds abutting against the sloping sides of the granite mass, 
while the higher beds lie horizontally across all ; showing that the exposure of the granite is 
due to denudation and not to intrusion. Where the granite belt first shows itself in the bed 
of the arroyo, it brings to the surface a fine little body of excellent water, sufficient to irrigate 
a small tract of land cultivated as a garden. All such springs as this can be depended upon 
as permanent. They are said to vary but little whether the season be good or bad. Santa 
Gertrudes is a miserable little collection of three or four adobe houses, inhabited by a couple of 
families of Indians. They eke out a miserable subsistence by cultivating half an acre or so 
of garden and by milking a few cows ; cheese being their principal article of food. There is a 
small church here, in a pretty good state of preservation, but it has nothing about it of interest. 
Approaching Santa Gertrudes we encountei-ed, for the first time, a remarkable plant 
which we afterward found to be very common, especially in the mountains, to near Rosario. 
It is called by the natives " cirio," and belongs probably either to the genus Fouquiera or 
Bronida. In its habits of growth and in its size it resembles somewhat the columnar cactus, 
consisting of a single shaft from thirty to fifty feet high, a foot or more in diameter at the 
base and tapering gradually to two or three inches thick at the top. It sends out no branches, 
unless from a wound ; the top may divide into two or three which always appear to be abnormal. 
The leaves are identical with the Palo Adan, but are arrayed on twigs a foot or so in length, 
profusely interspersed witli thorns ; the flowers are said to be like those of Palo Adan, except 
that they are white ; they grow on two or three long spikes at the extreme summit of the 
shaft. The most marked peculiarity of the tree, however, is the internal structure of the 
trunk. The bark is a thin, yellowish-brown skin; this covers a layer of fleshy substance, 
similar to that of the large cactus ; inside of the layer, which is from one to three inches thick, 
is a cylinder of woody texture, hardly thicker than the hand, and which, after the death of 
the plant and the decay of the other parts, remains as a network of tough wood. Inside of 
this cylinder is the heart, a mass of flesh of just about the consistency of a firm turnip. The 
whole appearance of the plant is peculiar, and the only comparison that I can make is that 
when seen at a little distance it looks like a tall hop-pole, covered with a rather scanty vine. 
The natives consider it a cactus, from the resemblance of its internal structure to that family. 
My learned friend. Dr. Behr, to whom I have carefully described it, says it must belong to one 
of the two genera named above, or at least to the same family. 

From Santa Gertrudes we rode eight leagues through a very desert country, to a place 
called Calmilli. The road ran half a mile in the arroyo of Sta. Gertrudes, thence across a 
rocky mesa two leagues, descending into a low, flat, desert valley, studded with innumerable 
clumps of tree yucca, whose gnarled and twisted stems, each terminating in a great awkward 
bunch of bayonet-like leaves, though ugly enough of themselves, served to relieve the eye 
after the apparently interminable monotony of cactus. Travelling along this waste, after 
suffering from the glare of the white and nearly naked soil, we entered the granite again and 
soon struck down an arroyo, running out of the valley through a range of hills. A couple of 
miles down the arroyo we found the sand wet, and several willows growing on the banks. 
By dint of hard work, digging in the sand, we succeeded in obtaining a supply of miserable 
water, strongly impregnated with sulphur, and having a taste of decayed vegetable matter. 
We were, however, very thankful for it, since the next water was at least twenty miles off. 
Next morning, nothing loath to leave Colmilli, we followed the arroyo to where it opened 



104 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

into a valley like the one we crossed the previous day ; crossing this also, we entered another 
arroyo and travelled up it, making about seven and a half leagues in all. The ascent of the 
latter caiion was extremely bad. It was full of large rocks and quicksands ; the trail, if any 
had ever existed, had been completely washed away, and between the difficulties of getting 
the mules along among the rocks, and the occasional variation of dragging one, cargo and all, 
out of a quicksand, our poor Mexicans had very hard work. More than once they had to 
take the load off a mule before they could extricate her from a particular soft spot, and 
then she would have to be ahiiost lifted out bodily. In this respect mules are very foolish : a 
horse, when in difficulty, will second the endeavors of those trying to help him ; but a 
mule, once thoroughly scared, seems to lose all control of himself, and will often give up in 
despair. After struggling through all the worst part of the caiion, we reached a flat with 
some grass, and plenty of wood. We were all unusually tired and glad to avail ourselves of 
the first opportunity to stop. The camp was not a particularly desirable one, but we did not 
like to leave it, not knowing how far the next spot would be where a camping would be 
possil)le. The next day we resumed our journey, and two leagues took us to the deserted 
mining-camp of San Sebastian. Here we found a fine stream of water, a pretty fair shanty 
of palm-leaves, and, what was moi-e desirable than either, a flat of several acres, almost free 
from stones, and with a profusion of excellent grass. Such an opportunity was not to be 
thrown away. Our poor mules were very tii-cd, and had been on rather scanty feed for several 
days ; so we unloaded at once, turned them out, and made ours.elves as much at home in the 
house as if it had been built for our especial accommodation. We were detained here for the 
ncAt two days by rain, and the house being somewhat out of repair, we were obliged to mend it ; 
the whole party went to work collecting palm-leaves and patched up the old roof until we made a 
very respectable shelter of it. Our arrival here was very opportune, because this was the 
only thing resembling a house along the road from Sta. Gertrudes to San Borja, and had the 
rain overtaken us at any other part of the route, we would have suffered great inconvenience. 
As it was, the mules had three days' rest and an abundance of food, so that we were actually 
gainers by the forced, though not unwilling detention. During our stay we had the opportunity 
of repairing all damages incidental to travel, and at one time we might have been taken for a 
camp of tailors. Many are the shifts to which the luckless traveller in an uninhabited country 
is obliged to resort. Pieces of flour-sacks, coat-tails, and even the terminal parts of certain 
under-garments, were pressed into service to repair the rents and thin places on the knees 
and elsewhere on our pantaloons ; so that by the time we were ready to leave San Sebastian 
our costumes began to present a more varied and picturesque appearance than is prescribed 
l)y the rules of fashion, or would be permitted outside of the limits of a masquerade. But 
tailoring did not occupy our entire attention. Some attempt at mining had been made here 
on a small scale, and we examined the work as well as we could without anybody to guide us. 
An old arrastre, with fragments of quartz scattered around, showed that gold had been the 
metal sought. On hunting around in the neighboring hills we found that there were numerous 
small holes made on a little streak of quartz outcrop, but nowhere had any regular mining 
Iieen done. No veins of any importance had been found, and, as we afterward learned, the 
quartz found had never yielded enough gold to pay current expenses. The whole thing had 
been an experiment, and had proved unsuccessful. 

At last, on Tuesday morning, March 19th, we broke up camp in San Sebastian, and leaving 
a diminutive seven by nine specimen of the stars and stripes fluttering over our hospitable 
shelter, as a memento of our visit, we climbed the hill-side until we reached the summit of 
the mesa. We rode along this some six leagues, crossing many deep valleys and winding 
between deep arroyos which cut the tables here into an infinitude of fragments, until we sud- 
denly, and, to all but our guide, unexpectedly found ourselves on the brink of a chasm about 
1,200 feet deep. This was the canon of the Paraiso or Paradise, and certainly, if difficulty of 
access is the criterion, it deserves its name. For many miles the brink is a vertical precipice 
of volcanic rocks, in some places several hundied feet high, without a break; below these are 
granite cliffs so steep that even a goat would find a difficulty in getting foothold. The trail, 
bad enough, is still sufficiently entire to permit animals to clamber down without serious 
risk of breaking their necks. After passing the volcanic rocks which cap the mesa, it is a 
very fair trail, cut in the soft granite and winding down the face of the cliff's to the bottom. 
As seen from above, the valley appears to be a thicket of mesquit, cactus, and fan-palms, with 
occasional openings of grass-land ; but on reaching it we found the greater part was clothed 
with a sufficiency of grass, and in some places it was very abundant. Some nice pieces of 
level land, with pretty good soil, exist in little bays and nooks, though the greater part of 
the bottom shows that it is subject to overflow during the rainy season. We found various 
traces of former occupation, such as an old corral, part of the frame of a house, and the re- 
mains of an irrigating ditch, now filled up. The bad weather had not entirely left us, and we 
had every prospect of a i-ainy night. After holding a council of war, we concluded to build a 
shelter, and in an hour had a fine large thatch of palm-leaves, sufficiently water-tight to answer 
our pin-pose. We were not disappointed, and before morning had good reason to be pleased 
ivith the result of our forethought. A drizzling shower continued until the middle of the 
nest morning, but, anxious to save all the time we could, we started in spite of it and were 
rewarded by the sun coming out almost as soon as we reached the mesa on the north side. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 105 

The climb here is not so steep nor so bad as it is on the south, running along the crest of a 
ridge most of tlie way. Fi-om the Paraiso we rode five leagues to another cuuon, where there 
is a single spring under the edge of the bank, known as the Agua de la Cabra, or " Goat 
Spring." This ride was so nearly like that of the previous day that the same description will 
answer for both ; a broken rocky mesa, covered with loose angular rocks, cut by innumerable 
canons, and with occasional depressions, making little grassy valleys. In the canon of the 
Cabra there was but little grass, but on the me-a the mules found good feed. 

On the 21st we rode two leagues over the same kind of mesa, and then, descending into a 
sandy and stony valley, followed it down another league to San Borja. The granite does not 
show itself along this part of the route as much as it did below. It is coveied by a heavy 
cap of volcanic ashes and trachyte, which form tables sloping to the northwest. Beyond these 
as far as tlie eye can reach is a maze of jagged ridges covering nearly the whole field of vision, 
and disposed without any apparent order. We entered San Borja and presented a letter of 
introduction to Don Pedro Nunez, who proved to be not only the principal man of the place, 
but a full-blooded Indian, and one who was deservedly more proud of his blood than the 
majority of his mongrel fellow-citizens, who had no origin worth speaking of to boast upon, 
and who, for their Hves, could not tell whether they were more Spanish or Indian, though 
their appearance would indicate the latter. Don Pedro occupies the mission buildings, and 
on my reading the letter to him, he at once placed at our disposal a suite of unoccupied rooms. 
He acts as a sort of chief by inheritance among the Indians, as justice of the peace and general 
agent of the Government for the municipality, and, in short, as head man generally over a 
region extending from coast to coast, and for a hundred miles or more each way, north and 
south. His subjects are almost without exception Indians of greater or less purity of blood, 
and neither he nor they can either read or write. The schoolmaster has not yet reached this 
benighted region. 

The mission consists of a very good stone church with an arched roof, never entirely fin- 
ished ; suites of rooms of stone surrounding two sides of a court-yard, wliile on a third side 
are the remains of a very extensive series of apartments built of adobe and now utterly ruined. 
Scattered around irregularly in front of these, is a number of modern adobe shanties. The 
population consists of perhaps a dozen or twenty persons, mostly the relatives of Don Pedro. 
Besides the younger of the population, there is an old Indian named Melchor, who was said 
l)y Viosco in 18(52 to be 108 years old. He is totally blind and deaf, and hobbles around the 
place, the sole remnant of the principal tribe subjugated by the missionaries. The gardens, 
all belonging to Nunez, are cultivated on a small scale; barely sufficient to furnish subsist- 
ence to their owner and his dependants. The available land is moderately extensive, but the 
supply of water for irrigation is limited. They also milk a number of cows, and make a consid- 
erable quantity of cheese. Having obtained from Nunez a short vocabulary of the Cochimi 
language, given him some remedies for a sick daughter, and exchanged a little flour for some 
fresh beef, we started on the morning of the22d for the west coast. The peninsula is extreme- 
ly narrow here. They say it is but six leagues, eighteen miles, by the trail to the bay of the 
Guardian Angel on the east side, while we reached Rosarito, a league from the west coast, in 
eigl\t leagues, or twenty-four miles. The width of the land therefore, in a straight line, can- 
not be more than 35 miles, since there must be a loss of at least ten miles from the windings 
of the trail. 

The most direct trail from San Borja is to Calamujuet by way of Yubai, but we had a 
double object in making the detour by way of Rosarito. Although nearly twice as fiir as the 
straight road, we would find better water and more of it on this route, and wo desired to visit 
some copper-mines said to exist near the coast. Mines of silver are said to exist in the moun- 
tains about San Borja, but the story is too old and too familiar to deceive an old Californian. 
Tiie same story is told in every mission of Upper California. In the mountains, not fiir off, 
are old silver-mines, formerly known to and worked by the missionaries. They were very 
rich, and not only furnished much of tiie means for carrying on the ponderous and expensive 
machinery of a large mission, but the worthy padres appeared to take an especial pride in 
having all their alter service made of silver from their own especial mine. The secret of the 
mine is still extant, but is in the possession of some old decrepit Indian, perhaps ))lind and 
bowed under the weight of a century. This aged individual, usually an old woman, would not 
divulge the secret for worlds, from fear of the threats ofexcommunication made by a priest 
whose very grave is now forgotten. So the story runs ; the mines have been searched for for 
nearly two decades, ever since the American occupation of California, but always unsuccess- 
fully. I myself have assisted in these excursions on several occasions, and I was too well 
posted to be deceived by the same threadbare narrative. Nevertheless, these stories find be- 
lievers like the very authentic accounts of tlie treasures buried by Captain Kidd, and the 
search for the long-lost silver-mines has not yet been abandoned even in Upper California. 

Leaving San Borja, we travelled all day down a dry, sandy arroyo through a beautiful 
assortment of cactus, including several species new to us, until we reached a marsh cov- 
ered with salt grass and rushes, and interspersed with innumerable ponds of brackish 
water. This is Rosarito, and here we found a little house built of rushes and belonging to 
a young Frenchman, who had accompanied us from San Borja, partly because he had noth- 



108 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

ing better to do, and partly because we desired to see some mines in wbicli he had an enor- 
mous fortune in prospective. 

Our French friend, who called himself John, had built this house while prospecting in the 
vicinity, and now, with an air of the greatest hospitality, placed his mansion and his exten- 
sive domains at our disposal. The latter were far more satisfactory in quantity than quality, 
but the former proved to be "a deception and a snare." We made camp here, and the next 
morning, leaving the cook and Domingo to take care of all we left behind, we started south- 
ward, accompanied by Jesus and our new-found friend. We rode along the coast about seven 
leagues, and, entering a caiion about a mile, found a pretty little spring, high up on the 
face of the hill, in a place where nobody, unacqiiainted with its locality, would ever look for 
water. The cafion in which we camped is called the Trinidad, and is probably the lower 
part of that which is known as La Cabra above. After supper, the weather looking threat- 
ening, we explored the vicinity to see if we could find a shelter, and selecting a cave formed 
by an overhanging ledge of rock in the direct bed of the steep water-course, we moved all 
our saddles and other baggage to it, and made our beds on the level sandy floor. Before 
morning a steady drizzling rain set in and continued all the next day, which was Sunday, 
and a drearier Sunday I do not think I ever spent. All Sunday night it rained hard, and 
in the morning we had a beautiful cascade above us, where the water made a sheer leap of 
200 feet, scattering into a sheet of spray long before it struck the rocks. In front of our 
cave was a little rivulet which, running down the caiion, cros§,ed the roof of our shelter, and 
jumped clear of us, splashing and spluttering among the stones a few feet below. Still far- ' 
ther down in the main caiion a furious river was roaring and foaming where the day before 
had been a dry bed, sand, and boulders. Here was a nice prospect before us ; we had done 
nothing, had but two days' provisions left, three days' work to do, and no cei-tainty that we 
were not shut in by impassable streams. On going out on the hill we saw there was clear 
sky to windward, and we determined to visit our mine, which was not only the best known and 
most developed, butal,>o the nearest. Accordingly, leaving Jesus with the pack-mule and 
all unnecessary baggage, we went toLarroque's mine, at the mouth of the Arroyo del Paraiso. 
We were obliged to make three efforts to cross tlie stream before we succeeded in passing it. 
It was so deep that v/e could find but one place where we would not have to swim, and so 
rapid that our mules could hardly stand up against the force of the current. This was a 
couple of miles out on the plain. To have tried it in the caiion would have been sheer mad- 
ness. 

A few minutes at the mine served to convince us of its character. A streak, in the granite, 
of copper stains, accompanied by small quantities of carbonate and red oxide of copper and a 
little copper glance, but without the slightest trace of vein structure, constitute the mine. A 
hole, 18 iect deep and 10 feet across, is all the work that has been done. There is no water 
within ten miles, no grass, and only some stunted and gnarled tovote-trees, three and four 
feet high, for wood. The place could not possibly be more desolate, and yet here Senor Larroque, 
a gentle.-nan of education and refinement, one fitted to grace the most polished circles of so- 
ciety, spent months alone, working with pick and shovel like a common miner, in the vain hope 
and belief that he was on the eve of acquiring a fortune. If any one has a desire to try a little 
Rol)inson Crusoe life, he could not find a better opportunity than to take possession of 
Larroque's shanty. He will have an excellent field for the display of his ingenuity, in 
overcoming every disadvantage that Nature can combine in one spot. He will find no 
caves in the hill-sides, for tlie house is on the plain; no wild goats, or any substitute, 
for the country is too barren to support any higher life than rattlesnakes and crows, and 
I believe the crows make their living principally by eating rattlesnakes that have died of 
starvation ; and as to man Friday, he would be very apt to continue Crusoe and man Friday 
combined to the end of the chapter. 

Having seen one mine, and being assured that the other was similar, " only a great 
deal better looking" (they all are), we expressed ourselves satisfied and returned to the 
camp in the cave. Our first appearance was greeted by a column of smoke, Jesus being on 
the lookout for us, and by the time we reached camp, supper was nearly ready. This time 
we crossed the stream high up in the caiion, but so rapidly had it fallen that it was now hardly 
a foot deep. 

Next morning we returned to Rosarito, but the ground was extremely disagreeable to 
travel on, being a soft gravel saturated with the late rains and burying our mules' feet to 
the fetlock at almost every step. All troubles in this life have an end, and at last we reached 
camp in much better spirits than we found the men we had left there. They had a dreadful 
woe-begone and generally bedraggled aspect — very like a hen that, having been in the water, 
has not yet thoroughly dried her feathers. Trusting to the semblance of a roof overhead, 
they found, when it was too late, that it only served to collect the rain into streams which, 
with a maddening pertinacity, insisted on dropping into their faces if they laid down, or run- 
ning down their backs if they sat up. They had tried all sorts of expedients, but without 
avail ; every thing was wet, and a day of half sunshine, half cloud, had hardly served to get 
blankets and clothing into a state fit for use. Domingo, with the stolidity and good constitu- 
tion of his race, had not suffered more than the temporary inconvenience of a wetting; but 
his companion was seriously ill with rheumatism and fever for a week afterward. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 107 

On this side excursion we followed, most of the way, the coast road. There are two routes 
from San Ignacio northward, which unite again at Calamujuet. The shorter one, usually trav- 
elled in winter, is by the plains ; the longer, always the safest, though the roughest, goes by 
Santa Gertrudes and San Borja. It was the latter which we had taken ; the former goes down 
the arroyo from San Ignacio, crossing some low tables, seven leagues to San Angel, where 
there is a spring of very salt water, almost undrinkable ; from San Angel the next water is 
Ojo Liebre, thirty leagues. The Ojo Liebre is a well dug in the plains. It is much resorted 
to by coyotes and smaller wild animals, many of which are drowned in it, and the water is said 
to be always unendurably foul. From the Ojo Liebre the next water is El Toro, 20 leagues. 
This water is not to be depended on, especially in dry seasons, when it often dries up entire- 
ly; when it does exist, it is always salt or brackish. From the Toro it is eight leagues to 
Trinidad, where we camped, but here it is more than likely that a stranger would fail to find 
the water. For the information of any person who may read this and wish to find this spring, 
I will describe it, so that he cannot fail to recognize the spot. Riding northward, at about 
six or seven leagues from the Toro can be seen some very low round hills on the coast, and 
just north of these hills is a little bay. To the right are low but irregular mountains, ending 
quite abruptly along the margin of the plain. Nearly opposite the bay is a large piece of 
mesa, separated from the irregularly-shaped mountain by a deep canon. This caiion is the 
Trinidad. The spring is on the north side of the caiion, about a mile from its mouth, and at 
the foot of a white bluff. There are several such bluffs along the south side of the mesa, but 
the one at the spi-ing is the farthest one up the caiion that can be seen from the plain. The 
spring is about half way up the slope of the hill, and its position can be recognized at a little 
distance by the presence of a clump of fan-palms. 

I have been thus minute in my description of the position of this spring, because, 
although it has the best water that can be found on the coast for a hundred miles or more 
either way, it is nevertheless known to but few even of the Mexicans. It is the more impor- 
tant, because it is the first permanent water after leaving the Toro, where water cannot 
always be found. 

Leaving Rosarito on the 2Yth, we rode a couple of leagues north to a little spring at the 
base of a hill called San Domingo. The water is good, but from some unknown cause it is 
unsafe to camp here. Animals that feed on the grass at this place are very apt to be poisoned. 
It is attributed by the Mexicans to some unknown plant which they call " la yerba " (the 
plant), and which is found also at Yubai, Santa Maria, Agua Dulce, and Santa Ursula. It is 
not reported as occurring elsewhere. I noticed that at all these places there is a small rush 
on which animals feed with avidity, and which grows in very wet ground. Whether this is 
tlie poisonous plant, or whether it is something else, I was unable to determine. We never 
stopped longer at one of these places than was necessai-y to give the animals water, and then 
pushed on, usually camping several miles from the water, where we could find sufficient pas- 
ture of a more harmless kind. The poison is said to be very active and invariably fatal. 
The animal affected shows the results of the poison by first reeling and staggering like a 
drunken man, he then lies down and dies within two or three hours from the time of first 
attack. From San Domingo our road approached the coast, reaching a lagoon and marsh in the 
arroyo of San Andres, five and a half leagues from Rosarito, and about two miles from the 
beach. We here watered our mules, filled our barrel, and went about a mile up the arroyo, 
where we had the finest pasture we had so far encountered ou the whole route. It was in 
this valley we saw the first antelope. They do not seem to be common below, if they occur 
at all. The antelope live almost entirely in plains and large valleys, and it is hardly prob- 
able that they ever pass the extensive hilly and mountainous tracts which lie between here 
and the more southern plains. From our camp in the arroyo we rode all day on leve! 
ground, leaving the arroyo about noon and travelling along the mesa of Santa Ana, which 
forms one side of an extensive valley, making a camp without water. Just before leaving the 
arroyo I succeeded in killing a small antelope doe, the only game we had seen since leaving 
camp. In this vicinity game is extremely scarce; we had been living on bacon for a week, 
not having been able to kill even so much as a hare since we had started from San Borja. 
The flesh of the antelope is somewhat like goat in taste, and very tough. It has not so 
pleasant a flavor as that of deer. From the camp ou the mesa we rode nine leagues over 
level ground, cut by a few shallow arroyos, and, descending about 20 feet into the arroyo of 
Calamujuet, stopped at the first water we found. The water is slightly brackish, and forms 
pools in the sand where the narrowing of the canon and the elevation of the rocky bed bring 
it to the surface. The camp is not a particularly good one, but this spot is of great impor- 
tance to travellers, being at a long distance from other water. The next morning we broke up 
camp, rode a league and a half to the mouth of the caiion opposite the old mission, and made 
a camp again. Accompanied by Jesus, Mr. Lohor and I then rode to a distant ridge, from 
which we could see all the land from our camp to the coast at the bay of San Luis. We 
were thus enabled to ascertain definitely that there was not the slightest obstruction in the 
way of a very easy and direct railroad route from coast to coast along this line. Any other 
route north of La Paz would require deep cuttings, heavy grades, and in all probability some 
tunnelling ; while from San Luis Bay past Calamujuet, and the mesa of Sta. Ana to the arroyo 
of Sau Andres, there is an open tract of level country. From the bav on the east side the 
50 



lOS SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

road would ascend the arroyo of Calamujuet, rising about 30 feet above the water-course to 
tlie mesa by a very gentle grade. From the mission of Calamujuet there would be about sis 
miles of side-hill cutting along the caiion to where it opens out iuto the mesa of Santa Ana. 
Over this table the ground is mostly perfectly level, though in some places slightly rolling, 
but without a single hill. Reaching the arroyo of San Andreas, the line would descend into 
the broad bottom-lands and follow the plane in a nearly straight Hue to the narrow spot at 
the marsh. Here a mile of side-hill cutting would pass the canon, and reach the undulating 
plain on the coast. Not a bridge nor a piece of trestle-work would be required on the whole 
route, unless small bridges should be considered preferable to culverts in crossing some of 
the dry gullies. The greatest ascent or descent would be to the mesa at Calamujuet, and 
from the mesa of Santa Ana to the valley of San Andreas, at most 20 or 30 feet each. The 
distances are, approximately : from San Luis Bay to Calamujuet, about five leagues ; Cala- 
mujuet to our camp on the mesa of Santa Ana, 10^ leagues ; irom this camp to the upper 
end of the marsh in the arroyo of San Andres, six leagues ; thence to the coast, one to two 
leagues — in all, 22 to 24 leagues ; say, as an outside limit, 75 miles. There is said to be a good 
harbor at or near the mouth of the arroyo of San Andres, but of this I cannot speak, since 
we did not visit it. But one can hardly go amiss for harbors on this coast, there is one every 
few miles, and some of them are excellent. Should a railroad ever be built across Northern 
Mexico, this route will undoubtedly become valuable, since it will save two or thr^e days of 
steaming. The great drawback in all this country is the entire absence of all woods suitable 
for lumber. Mesquit, or palo bianco, if they occur in sufficient quantities and of their usual 
maximum size, would answer admirably for railroad ties, but they are scarce, and one of suffi- 
cient thickness is very uncommon. In fact, there is so little wood of any kind in the coun- 
try that, in all probability, fuel for the engine would have to be imported. This could, how- 
ever, be provided against in the course of time. The valley of San Andres is at least ten 
miles long and averages a mile wide. Black locust flourishes everywhere in this country v. here 
it is planted, and in five years, with the excellent soil which covers nearly the whole valley, 
extensive artificial forests of good-sized trees could be obtainpd. This last is not an idle 
suggestion. The experiment has been tried successfully in Upper California, and is being 
tried below La Paz with every prospect of success. The tree grows rapidly, and makes an 
excellent fuel, besides requiring but little care in starting it. The day after our arrival at 
Calamujuet being Sunday, we remained in camp, harassed by a strong cold wind that blew 
constantly. We examined the ruins of the mission buildings, which stand on a gravelly mesa 
on the south side of the arroyo, and near the hills. They consist of three or four small 
buildings constructed of a very poor gravelly adobe. They are roofless, and the rains of 
nearly a century have almost destroyed them. The church is a little structure about 15 feet 
wide by 25 feet long, and a broken-down mass of adobe at one end shows where once stood 
the altar. 

A couple of palm-poles half buried in the debris of the crumbling walls are all that remain 
of the thatched roof which once protected the half-savage worshippers from the inclemencies 
of the weather. Any one, having doubts of the sincere piety of the worthy men who Ibunded 
these missions, will have but to visit such a spot as Calamujuet or Sta. Maria, to convince 
himself that neither fame nor worldly gain could have induced them to leave home, friends, 
fortune, and every thing that man holds dear in this life, and spend the best years of tlieir 
manhood in such places as these. Whatever one's creed, it is impossible not to honor and 
respect the zeal and devotion that would prompt, and, more than all, sustain such continued 
sacritices. 

On Monday, April 1st, we left Calamujuet and rode three or four leagues to San Fran- 
cisquito, where we watered our mules and filled our barrel, after Avhich we went on to a point 
on the mesa near the mouth of Santa Maria canon, in all about nine leagues from Calamujuet. 
Here we made camp among the rocks, having plenty of wood and grass, but no water except 
what we had brought with us. The mountains through which Calamujuet cuts its way rise 
rapidly, culminating near Sta. Maria in two or three flat-topped knobs. Our route lay over 
rocky mesas nearly parallel with the base of the range, and a mile or two from it. 

Next morning we crossed the arroyo of Sta. JIaria in the plain below the mouth of the 
canon, and climbed a very rocky and hilly trail until, liaving readied a height of perhaps 1,500 
feet above the sea, we descended a couple of hundred feet and found ourselves in a sandy 
arroyo in the bottom of a deep caiion. Pvagged granite peaks shut us in on every side, and 
below us the caiion was so steep and full of rocks that it was impassable for horses, if not for 
footmen. Winding our way amid groves and thickets of palms, we at last found ourselves 
at the ruined mission of Santa Maria. The buildings, consisting of a church and two or three 
otli«r edifices, all of adobe and roofless, are now in complete ruins. The place has a most forbid- 
ding aspect ; nothing can be seen but granite rocks, with a scattering growth of cactus, 
while down the canon is the sole redeeming feature, a winding line of tall and graceful pidm- 
trees, waving with the slightest breath of air. No grass exists here, and there is not a foot 
of land fit for cultivation. Crossing a little ridge we came to a marsh with a small stream 
of water. Here we as usual filled the barrel, and, watering the mules, started to climb the 
ridge to cross the summit for the last time. Our patient mules had hard labor to work their 
.way up the steep ascent, worn smooth by the travel of more than a hundred years. In some 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNU. 109 

places it seemed doubtful whether the heavier-loaded pack-animals would not actually fall 
over backward, so steep was the trail, and it was with feelings of intense relief that we saw 
the last one safe on top of the mountain. From the summit the ground slopes gradually to the 
northwest, somewhat broken by low ridges of granite, but without any deep caiions. Travel- 
ling a few miles fa,rther, we at last halted in a little caiion where there were some grass and 
mesquit, but no water. We had come nine hard leagues, and all of us, animals and men, 
were thoroughly tired out. 

■ On the 3d we rode seven leagues, the first half of it being over a most peculiar country. 
It was nearly a plain of granite, covered with a scanty soil, supporting a very scattering 
growth of cactus, while iimumerable masses of granite, projecting above the soil in every 
direction, were weathered into the most fantastic forms. Here and there, scattered over the 
plain, usually several miles apart, were isolated hills, some of them flat-topped and capped 
with volcanic rocks, while others were so ragged that no painter would dare to copy them 
for fear of being accused of exaggeration. About the middle of the day's ride we reached a 
dry arroyo, and following it to its head we found the spring known as Agua Dulce, or sweet 
water. It is a pool twenty or thirty feet in diameter, several feet deep, and beautifully clear. 
Our thirsty mules drank with avidity, and after procuring a supply for camp, we continued 
our journey to the plains of Buenos Ayres. After riding a couple of leagues over volcanic 
fragments, thickly strewed over the ground, we entered a broad plain, extending to the north 
and northeast as far as the eye could reach, covered with clumps of mesquit-trees, bushes, 
and tree yucca, while the soil, rich and fertile and without stones, was clothed with a profu- 
sion of grass. I find a memorandum on the margin of my note-book at this point, "Not a 
cactus in sight," followed by a large and emphatic-looking exclamation-mark. This was not 
strictly correct. After writing it, while hunting, I saw a few choreas, but they were so scarce 
as to hardly attract attention. It was the first time we had camped in Lower California 
without being surrounded with cactus, and we fully enjoyed the exemption. The plain seems 
to be very little known, to the northeast of where the road crosses it. If it retains its 
character for a few miles, and a constant supply of water could be had, it would prove a 
valuable stock district. So far as known, no water exists in any part of it. 

Thursday (5th), rode about six leagues across the corner of the plain and through the hills 
to the deserted mission of San Fernando. This mission, founded in 1768, 99 years ago, con- 
sists of a large adobe church, now entirely in ruins, and a rather extensive series of rooms in 
an adjoining building, still in a pretty good state of preservation. They were placed on the 
hill-side, on a little flat, partially artificial, and overlooking a marshy tract nearly half a 
mile long. Below this marsh there is probably as much as a hundred acres of arable 
land, and the remains of old ditclies testify that at least a portion of the land was cultivated. 
A party of Cliilenos or Sonorians occupied the mission buildings during a portion of 1865 
and 1866 while searching in the neighboring mountains for minerals; but the fact that they 
went away and opened no mines is pretty good proof that they were unsuccessful, despite 
the statement of Viosca that gold is found in the vicinity. At the mission we encountered 
the first species of the California ground-squirrel {Spennopldlus, apparently Douglasee.) They 
were scarce, however, until within a day's ride of San Diego. 

From San Fernando we rode ten leagues across rolling and hilly country, and through 
another range to a rocky plain called India Flaca, or thin Indian, a very appropriate name, 
since any Indian or white man eitlier who should live here a few weeks would be sure to be 
thin enough. We passed the place called the Agua Amarga (bitter water), or Santa Ursula, 
where we obtained a supply of water for camp use, and then pushed on to the west side of 
the above plain. Camping in an arroyo near the western margin of the plain, close to a low 
range of hills, we found a sufiQciency, and had cactus skeletons and maguey-stumps for fuel. 
We had become so accustomed to camping without water that we hardly noticed its absence. 
During this same week we made five " dry " camps, watering our mules and obtaining a 
supply of water in our barrel some time during the day. On the way to-day we killed a 
couple of rattlesnakes, and after cutting off their heads carried their bodies into camp. To 
the great disgust of the Mexicans, we cooked and ate them ; more, it is true, by way of experi- 
ment than any tiling else. They are, however, very palatable ; the flesh is a little tough, 
but sweet, without bad flavor, and resembles eels somewhat, but is not so greasy. The Mexi- 
cans were convinced that the only reason why I had not been poisoned in handling their 
reported venomous lizards and toads, and in eating snakes, was because, being a " medico," I 
was proof against poisons. Our immunity did not reassure them in the least. From the 
India Flaca we rode five leagues to Rosario, where we bought and killed a sheep, filled our 
barrel, and went two leagues farther to a deep canon in the coast called the Arroyo Honda, 
where we made another dry camp. Having passed Rosario, we were told to expect a great 
improvement in the country. The rocky tracts were to disappear, and beautiful valleys were 
to take their place. Of a truth, there was a great change, but Rosario is rather an arbitrary 
point, San Queatin would be a nearer approximation to the truth. At the Arroyo Honda we 
were terribly annoyed by a sharp cold wind that blew all the evening and nearly all night. 
We could hardly keep a camp-fire burning, so fiercely did it blow. We were not sorry in the 
morning to leave so bleak a place, and rode nine leagues to San Simon, or, as it has lately 
been christened, the city of Santa Maria. The road lay along the coast, much of it on ths 



110 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

hard sand-beach and rarely out of sight of the surf, until we struck inland a mile or two below 
Sta. Maria. Approaching the place, our eyes were gladdened by the sight of two or three very 
American-looking board houses and a well-cleared piece of road, broad and smooth as a race- 
track. What was our surprise, on riding up to the house, to find a couple of sign-boards on 
one coi'ner, one bearing the inscription " Hyde Street," the other " Barry Street ! " Without 
knowing it we had stumbled on an embryo American town. Wc were met at the door by 
an elderly man, whose name we afterward learned was Porter. He welcomed us cordially, 
showed us where to put our baggage and saddles, directed the men where to find pasture for 
the mules, and took us in, treating us with the greatest hospitality. We remained over the 
next day, and learned that the proposed city of Santa Maria was a speculation of a Judge 
Hyde, of San Francisco, based on the problematical event of his being able to make this the 
terminus of the best road across the mountains to the Colorado. A large sum of money had 
been spent here, and all that remain to show for it were two good houses and one very poor 
one, a few hundred yards of useless road running nowhere on a plain, a corral, and a little 
vegetable garden. The port is so small and shallow that the little vessel of eight or ten tons, 
that comes here occasionally, has a difficulty in passing the bar ; the plain on which the future 
city is to be built is too salt to admit of cultivation, and is subject to overflows when, as last 
winter, it is covered with half a foot or more of water ; firewood there is none, except a 
scanty supply of willow, and the general resources of the region are just nil. There is excel- 
lent grass on the plains, especially among the willows and near tl*e hills, and the water, which 
is very good, is reached by wells of from three to twelve feet deep. 

Bidding adieu to the city which is to be, we went eight miles to the salt-ponds of San 
Quentin. These we found deserted, and took possession of the house, which has a general 
look of dilapidation, and sadly needs repairs. Riding over a low hill, we found ourselves on 
the margin of one of the lakes. These are some half a dozen in number, and cover areas 
from one to five acres each. The salt crystallizes in the mud-flats around the margin, in sheets 
of nearly half an inch thick. This is collected in heaps, and needs no preparation to fit it for 
shipment. Although the underlying mud is often very soft, they can, by a peculiar manner of 
shovelling, lift the flakes of salt almost unsoiled and so nearly pure that it is unnecessary to 
refine it for ordinary purposes. Numerous heaps of the salt, thus collected, are standing on 
the dry ground around the lakes, awaiting transportation. The quantity is estimated at about 
a thousand tons, and from appearances this seems to be about the real amount. Several im- 
portant drawbacks exist, which combine to prevent the profitable working of this deposit. 
The only market of importance is, of course, San Francisco. The company that has posses- 
sion of the property holds it under a lease from the Mexican Government, to which a heavy 
royalty has to be paid ; the port for shipment is eight or ten miles distant and hauling is 
expensive ; add to this the cost of collecting the salt, the freight to San Francisco, the duties 
here, and the competition, and there is little profit left for the producers. On the little ride 
of a mile or two while making the circuit of the ponds, we found rattlesnakes rather too 
common to please nervous people. We killed three in the trail, in an hour. About San 
Quentin the pasture was exactly like that of Upper California in its best condition. Alfilerillo 
alfalfa, burr, and red clovers make the greater part of the forage-plants, while the yellow 
poppy, primrose, and other familiar flowers, complete the resemblance. In fact, the belt from 
here to Rosario may be laid down as the dividing line between semi-tropical floras of the 
lower peninsula and the more northern vegetation of Upper California. Many species of 
cactus disappear soon after leaving Rosario, as well as a large number of the other plants 
with which we had become familiar ; and of those which do continue, a large number cling 
tenaciously to the mountains or highlands, and are even there scattered and thinning out. 
On the other hand, we had noticed for more than a week, one after another of our old northern 
friends coming in, first scattered, stunted, and evidently away from home, but gradually in- 
creasing in number and size, almost insensibly, but none the less surely supplanting their 
southern neighbors. This overlapping of forms takes place much more markedly in the high 
land than in the plains. In the latter the vegetation is much more sectional, that is, it re- 
sembles much more closely the district to which it belongs. As an illustration, an Upper 
Californian, suddenly transported to San Quentin, would have no special reason to suppose 
himself out of his State ; while if he were placed on the mountains directly east, or even north- 
east, he would find the same plants that make the characteristic landscape about San Borja 
or even farther south. Two or three miles from San Quentin we saw the last cardon, or 
columnar cactus ; and in the line of demarcation which I had laid down, we encountered the 
first buckeyes and elders. Chapparal oaks make their appearance between this point and San 
Telmo, and the hills support, for the first time, a scattering growth of chamiso. The ceano- 
thus, with its little bunches of purplish flowers, appears about the same time. 

On the 10th we rode along the coast, half a dozen leagues over good grazing-Iand to San 
Ramon, where we camped aside of a marshy arroyo, under shelter of a clump of willows. A 
quarter of a mile from us was a house, the headquarters of a ranchero. The people here are 
engaged in raising horses, of which we saw several bands. The animals are of good size, fine- 
looking beasts, and their condition spoke well for the character of the pasture. The worst 
annoyance they have here is that the country is overrun with rattlesnakes. On this ranch 
three or four horses had been bitten during the week previous to our arrival. Leaving Sau 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. HI 

Ramon we followed the coast four leagues farther, over a similar country to that behind us, 
and then our road took us four leagues farther across a range of pretty high hills to iSan Tel- 
mo, a little settlement, near a deserted and ruined mission, in a deep valle}'. Every thing 
bore the impress of an approach to Upper California. Large herds of sleek, nice-looking 
cows were grazing on the flats and lying under the shade of the trees, while several flocks of 
sheep could be seen dotting the hill-sides, or huddled together in some shady spot, under the 
care of a drowsy shepherd, whose more vigilant dog would rush at us with furious^ barking, 
trying to drive us away from his charge. 

The people of San Telmo are very temperate in their habits. We sent Domingo down to 
the village, a mile below us, with instructions, while buying some fresh meat, to bring along 
" something strong." He searched carefully and reported that, in the whole place, there was 
neither wine, aguardiente, mescal, "nor any drop to drink," except water. From San Telmo 
we had a dreary, disagreeable ride of six leagues in the rain to El Salado ; why so called I do 
not know, unless by the rule of contraries. Wc certainly saw no salt. Our route lay nearly 
parallel with the coast, and three to five miles distant. 

A ranch-house at the Salado, deserted by the owners, is occupied by a family or two of 
Indians, a miserable, half-naked set of wretches, hardly alaove the brutes in intelligence. A 
mile or two below is the Delphina copper-mine, owned by some gentlemen in Upper California, 
among whom, I am told, are General Rosecrans and Captain Winder, U. S. A. A very sub- 
stantial adobe house, with a couple of smaller ones here, belong to the company, and all the 
property was in charge of a man who is known variously as " Chino " or Marto de la Cruz. 
Chino represents himself to be the generalissimo or head chief of all the Yumas, Cocopas, and 
several adjoining tribes. He says he is a full-blooded Indian, although nearly everybody else 
says he is a Mexican. He is certainly very light-colored for an Indian, and speaks Spanish too 
well. He also talks, besides English and some French, several Indian dialects. He has a large 
number of testimonials from various army officers, Indian agents, etc., including a pretentious- 
looking document from Navarete, the predecessor of the present governor in Lower Cali- 
fornia. These all speak of him as a good friend of the whites, and a man to be depended upon. 
The morning after our arrival was spent at the mine. We did not see as much of it as we 
could have desired. There is a shaft, said to be about 150 feet deep, into which we did not 
go, not being sure that it would be safe, it having been deserted for sometime. We saw, 
however, some quite extensive works on the face of the hill near the shaft, the principal of 
which was a deep cut from which a large quantity of surface ores had been taken. This cut, 
extending along the vein, is about 50 feet deep vertically and horizontally, and exposes a 
well-defined vein five or six feet wide. The ores, oxides, and carbonates, are very rich, and 
have been obtained in large quantities. Besides what has been carried away, which, I am 
informed, made several extensive shipments, there were at the mine 300 to 400 sacks of picked 
ore of excellent quality awaiting transportition. 

In the afternoon we rode across a rolling granite country, three leagues, to the old mission 
of San Vicente, where, the next day being Sunday, vre remained until Monday morning. Our 
camp was one of the most beautiful I ever beheld. We were on a perfectly level tract of a 
few acres, nearly shut in by a grand old hedge of prickly pear ; the whole area was covered 
with a mat of the greenest grass. Back of us was a table 10 or 15 feet high, on which stood 
the not unpieturesque ruins of the mission buildings ; at our side was a fine stream of water, 
and overhead the dense foliage of a clump of venerable olive-trees, in the midst of which we 
had made our camp. Tlie mules luxuriated in the rich, juicy herbage, and we enjoyed the 
beauties of the place to the fullest, leavijig it with regret when Monday morning reminded us 
that we could idle no longer. 

San Vicente is now private property, though it is unoccupied. It contains several leagues 
of good, very fertile bottom-land, and a considerable tract of grazing-land on the low rolling 
hills. A large portion of the bottom seems to have been cultivated during the time of the 
missions, judging from the remains of irrigating ditches winding around the hill-sides. Let 
American enterprise wake these people out of their lethargy, and San Vicente will become one 
of the most flourishing ranches of Lower California. 

From San Vicente we rode inland seven leagues to Sto. Tomas, through a rolling, rocky 
country, with plenty of water. This latter place is in the bottom of a wide arroyo, 21 miles 
from the coast. It is quite a town, of some, perhaps, 50 or 60 inhabitants, containing 
half a dozen houses, and the ruins of the small mission establishment. A few acres of 
ground are under cultivation, irrigated by the water of three or four large springs. This 
is the headquarters of the sub-government of the frontiers. Seiior Zerega, the deputy- 
governor, to whom we had letters, was absent, but we were very well received by the 
family of a brother-in-law of Jesus'. A group of old olive-trees here, surpassing in size even 
those of San Vicente, are almost the only traces of early cultivation of the vicinity. The 
valley is said to be excellent ranch-land for some distance farther up, and all the way to 
the coast. Some cattle and sheep are raised here, and considerable quantities of wine are 
produced. 

Resisting with some difficulty the very cordial invitation to remain, which our new friends 
almost insisted on our accepting, we rode the next day 12 leagues to Saucal. The country 
did not difier materially from what we passed through the day before: a series of rolling 



112 . SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

hills, succeeding each other almost interminably, with pretty and fertile valleys interspersed, 
and groves here and there of the California live-oak, while a little sycamore dotted the 
lines of the water-courses. Both of these trees occur here for the first time, this being their 
southern limit. At the Saucal, which is directly on the coast, there is an embarcadero or 
landing for small vessels. We found here, too, another brother-in-law of Jesus', who keeps 
a small store. He took us in and treated us very hospitably. This family is very different 
from the majority of their countrymen. They are lighter in color, indicating a purer blood, 
and are very intelligent and — but it would be invidious to make a distinction in the Spanish 
race in the matter of politeness. 

On the 17th, accompanied by our host, we rode eight leagues, past the San Antonio " cop- 
per-mines " and the rancho of Guadalupe, to a little caiion called Los Burros. We spent a 
little while looking ut one or two of the copper claims, and saw nothing more than the 
deceptive copper stains in granite, which have caused so much useless expenditure of money 
in Upper California. Satisfied of the utter worthlessness of all we saw, and which, we were tokl, 
were the " best mines," we pushed on. Guadalupe ranch is by far the best rancho in Lower 
California. It comprises seven leagues of bottom-land, with a stream of water running through 
it. The land is of great fertility, and several acres of wheat and barley, already headed out, 
showed that it was excellent grain-land. There is here also a large orchard of various fruits, 
including peach, plum, apricot, pomegranate, fig, etc., and a fine vineyard. The grass in the 
uncultivated parts of the valley was unsurpassed by any thing *e saw on the whole journey, 
below or above. Two leagues beyond the Guadalupe, we camped under a large spreading live- 
oak by the side of a beautiful stream of water gurgling over its pebbly bed, and enjoyed the 
luxury of a rousing camp-fire. 

From here we travelled, still in the same rolling hills, across beautiful little valleys, cross- 
ing stream after stream to the Valley of the Palms. If palms ever existed here, they must have 
died or been killed, since we did not see one. I have been told, however, that the fan-palm 
does really exist in some little valleys back of San Diego. Whether they are natural strag- 
glers from beAow, or whether they had been planted there, I could not ascertain. The valley 
in which we camped is broad, open, and sandy. It is covered with a good growth of grass and 
numerous trees, but does not look as if it would produce very astonishing results under culti- 
vation. 

From the " Valley of the Palms " we went to the Tia Juana, crossed the boundary, and 
camped at the rancho de la Punta, once more under the protection of Uncle Sam. Tlie monu- 
ment that marks the dividing line is in such a dilapidated state that something will have to 
be done shortly. Either a new one must be placed there, or better, the necessity for one ob- 
viated by the selection of some more natural line of demarcation, say, for instance, the Gulf 
of California. This must be sooner or later. 

I have given an honest, impartial account of the impressions made on me by whatever I 
saw. I have not given a very glowing account of the country; still, Lower California, 
with its fisheries, its mines, its cultivated lands, and its extensive grazing-tracts, not to mention 
its geographical position, must be of more value to the United States than the recently 
acquired territory of the Northwest. Not only that, its resources, with the equable and stable 
government that it would thus acquire, and with the aid of American energy, skill, and capi- 
tal, will increase themselves fivefold in hardly more than as many years. 

GEOLOGY. 

The peninsula of Lower California can be separated geologically into three pretty well- 
marked districts. The first includes the high mountain portions, between La Paz and Cape 
San Lucas ; the second extends from this to beyond San Ignacio, say to Santa Gertrudes ; the 
third includes all that part lying north of Santa Gertrudes. The date of upheaval of the 
mountain-ranges, as proved by the sedimentary rocks which are disturbed, allies them to the 
Coast Range of Upper California, with which, in fiict, they are connected by a continuous chain. 
It is possible to trace an uninterrupted granite ridge from the San Gabriel Mountains north of 
Los Angeles, through Los Angeles, San Bernardino, and San Diego Counties, into Lower Cali- 
fornia and along the peninsula to within a few miles of the old mission of Sta. Gertrudes. From 
the exposure by denudation of masses of granite under the sedimentary rocks, as at Sta. Ger- 
trudes and Sauce, near Loreto, it is probable that an elevation of say, another thousand feet, 
would carry the continuous line of granite entirely through to Cape San Lucas. This will be 
better understood by a more detailed account of the various phenomena observed during our 
hasty reconnoissance. The first region mentioned above consists of a high, nearly north and 
south range of mountains, commencing at Cape'San Lucas and extending with its branches 
to the Cacachilas range, southeast of La Paz. 

Other spurs and accessary chains cover nearly the whole extremity of the peninsula with 
a ruirged mountain mass, very variable in height, and interspersed with ahnost innumerable 
vallcTys, some of which can hardly be equalled in beauty and fertility in any other part of 
the world. Even high up in the mountains are said to be fine valleys, well watered, with a 
constant supply of the best grass, capable of raising any thing, and, what is most important 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 113 

of all in a country where wood is scarce, surrounded by the finest kind of oak and pine 
timber. 

The main chain of this region is the San Lazaro, a mass lying west of the valley of San 
Jose, and culminating in the sharp peak of San Lazaro, about 5,000 feet high. This range 
is extremely rugged and picturesque, and appears to be heavily timbered, at least in parts, 
as seen from the valley of Santa Anita. It sends out many lateral spurs, and its deep canons 
all abound in perennial supplies of excellent water. 

The coast side, as seen from a passing vessel, is even more barren and forbidding than 
its inland aspect. At its southern extremity it opens into a Y shape, near Cape San Lucas, 
and north it sends out several branches, one of which, the Sierra de la Victoria, some 30 
miles south of Triunfo, rivals in height the main chain. Triunfo itself is in a low part of the 
.same range, and within a mile or two of the dividing ridge which separates the watershed of 
the Pacific from that of the gulf. Here, however, the elevation is, perhaps, not more than 
1,000 feet above the sea, and the descent is almost unnoticeable, except to the experienced 
eye. The same ridge rises again on the peninsula included between La Paz Bay and the gulf, 
making the rugged granite chain of the Cacachilas perhaps 3,000 feet high. In the tract 
included between the ranges above mentioned, is the east coast ; that is to say, between 
a nearly direct line from San Jose to La Paz on the west and the gulf on the east, there are 
numerous small i-anges and spurs, none of great elevation, and which we had no opportunity 
of examining in detail. 

The geology of this lower portion of the peninsula is quite simple. The high ridges are 
all essentially granitic ; the rocks varying in structure from a true granite to a true syenite 
with every intermediate grad-xtion. Approaching San Antonio from the southeast, the granite 
is replaced for the fiPst time by a mica slate, which makes a belt running northeast and 
southwest across the country. I found it extending uninterruptedly to and six miles beyond 
Triunfo, on the La Paz road. To the west from Triunfo, toward Todos Santos, it continues 
to the extreme edge of the mountains, bordering the plains, and is said to continue to the 
Cacachilas. It is in this rock that the only really valuable mineral deposits of the territory 
have been found. Gold is reported from many places in the granite of the San Lazaro ; and 
Seiior Carillo, of Sta. Anita, assured me that, when a young man, he had seen " chispas," or 
nuggets of gold, one as large as the palm of his hand, said to have been brought from the 
low ranges east of Sta. Anita. Be that as it may, subsequent search has always failed to find 
the spot from which they came. Copper and silver are also reported, and traces of the 
former at least doubtless exist. AttheCalabazas, 18 miles from Triunfo, on the road to La 
Paz, in a low ridge to the left of the road, copper-mines or traces of copper exist. No work 
is being done, tlie exploration having ceased long before our visit. In the mica slate only 
have deposits of metal been found sufficiently valuable to pay for regular mining. The prin- 
cipal districts are in the vicinity of San Antonio and Triunfo, within three or four miles of 
each other, and containing the same system of veins, and the district of Cacacliilas, on the 
southeast side of the range of mountains of the same name, and between 20 and 30 miles 
from La Paz. Tliis latter district was not visited by us, for a variety of reasons. 

Our purpose in visiting the country was to make an exploration of the lands included 
within the grant to the Colonization Company, and these lands did not commence until some 
distance farther north. We were in a hurry to get at our legitimate work, and our time 
was necessarily limited; besides, having ascertained the main features of the mineral deposits, 
we had no inclinalion to go into the details of every mine. 

We spent several days in and around Triunfo and San Antonio, and visited all the 
principal mines of that region. They are almost all on two parallel veins, running nearly 
north and south, and quite near each other. The largest of these veins is remarkable for the 
great uniformity it sustains throughout, both in the character of its ore and in the size and 
continuity of its ore deposit. The vein, with a thickness of from 8 to 15 feet, carries a body 
of metal of from three to five feet, wherever any deep excavations have been made on it 
within a length of four or five miles. Several mines are in successful operation, and others 
have been sufficiently opened to render their future morally certain of success, so far as one 
dare judge one mine by analogy with another. The injudicious expenditure of large sums by 
incompetent men in doing useless work, instead of applying them in such a manner as to prove 
the vein, has retarded almost beyond calculation the development of this region. 

It will re(iuire years to restore the confidence thus lost, and establish on its proper basis 
the prosperity of the district. The mistake always made has been the employment of men, 
unfitted by study and experience, as superintendents of the mines, simply because their 
services could be obtained at a price which, when too late, proved to be in a nearly exact 
ratio with their ability. 

Besides the two principal veins, there are several smaller ones on which are many mining 
" claims," but, inasmuch as work has been many times commenced and abandoned on them, 
and no result even yet attained, it is probably safer to pass them by with the mere mention. 

Besides the crystalline rocks already described, there are also some deposits of later age, 
in this district, though very limited in extent. They belong to two distinct geological eras. 
The newer is a modern gravel deposit which fills nearly all the valleys, is horizontally strati- 
fied everywhere, and consists of the debris of granite vnth some foreign admixture, such as 



114 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

l>oiilders of volcanic origin. This gravel forms mesas in some places as much as 60 feet 
above the valleys, perfectly level, nearly always covered with loose stones, and supporting an 
entirely different character of vegetation from that found in the fertile bottoms. Sometimes, 
as at the Cuevas, it is a pretty compact, even-grained sandstone, and at times is a little dis- 
turbed, having a dip of a few degrees in one direction or another. It fills the valley of San 
Jose, lining the sides cither as a regular table, or occasionally cut into rolling hills. From 
the head of the valley, between Sta. Ana and Santiago, it forms the only division between the 
watersheds of the two streams. At Santiago it is a mile or two wide, and forms a beautiful 
terrace, with a sharply-defined margin and steep face. 

The other rock, probably the same as that so extensively developed farther north in the 
mesa, is a hard sandstone, resembling closely that of the tertiary of Upper California. The 
only place where I saw it well developed in this region was at the Rancho de los Martires 
where, cast of the house, is a little hill composed of strata dipping westward at an angle of 
about 15". The rock, of which I saw much in use about the house, is said to be all alike. 
What I saw was a fissile sandstone, splitting into sheets answering admirably for flagging. 
The horizontal gravel abutted against the sloping faces of this rock. I saw no fossils, nor 
any means by which I could ever approximately establish the age of the formation. Large 
fossil oysters are said to occur three miles east of Santiago, but I was reluctantly obliged to 
leave without visiting the locality. The only clew I possess is indeed a slight one. About 
seven years ago, Mr. John Xantus sent from Cape San Lucas to the Academy of Natural 
Sciences of Philadelphia a few fossil oysters. These were considered at the time by Mr. 
Conrad and myself as probably belonging to Mr. C.'s. species, 0. Gcorgiana, but a more inti- 
mate acquaintance with 0. Titan, Con., in California, inclines me to the belief that they were 
the long slender variety of that species. Should 0. I'ltan be found in this rock it would be 
pretty good proof of the mioceno age of the formation, since that species is very characteris- 
tic, not only of the formation, but of a single member of it. Throughout the whole extent 
of the territory I never encountered a single fossil in the mesa sandstones; and, while I con- 
sider that analogy, and all the little items of presumptive evidence that can be obtained are in 
favor of their miocene age, I should notwithstanding be very reluctant to decide, on such 
grounds, to place them in one formation rather than another. 

On the road from Triunfo to La Paz, alter passing Playitas, and emerging into the valley 
of La Paz, the granite is succeeded by hills of from 500 to TOO feet high, of stratified volcanic 
ash covered by a deposit of very hai'd porphyritic trachytes. These volcanic rocks are not 
extensively developed on this side of the bay, but form a narrow strip along the base of the 
higher mountains, forming the Cacachilas range. The stratified ash has a low dip, usually 
westward, though in some places, especially east of La Paz, it is very much disturbed, dipping 
in all directions. The new church now in process of construction, in La Paz, is of this solidi- 
fied ash, which is sufficiently hard and of a good color for building purposes. 

We encountered no other volcanic rocks in place in this region, but I observed, especially 
near Santiago, in the gravels, numerous pebbles and occasionally large boulders of a light-gray 
porphyry with crystals of white feldspar. Inquiry among the natives failed to elicit any in- 
formation regarding simila.r rocks in place, and the boulders have a rolled look, as if they 
might have travelled a long distance. From the borders of the mica slate, on the road tow- 
ard Todos Santos and northward, there is an entire change in the geology and an accompany- 
ing one in the appearance of the country. The rugged mountains and beautiful tropical 
valleys disappear, and in their place we had broad arid-looking plains, or at best flat-topped 
table-mountains, extending as far as the eye can reach, as tiresome in their monotony as the 
plains themselves. The general structure of this, the middle portion of the peninsula, is a 
scries of non-fossiliferous sandstones lying on a granite base, the fonner often metamor- 
phosed, especially on the eastern side. On the western margin these rocks are overlaid, usually 
more or less conformably, though with occasional instances of non-conformability, by a com- 
paratively thin series of sandstones and calcareous beds, often highly fossiliferous. The 
fossils, all or nearly all of living species, indicate for this group a very recent age, most 
probably post-pliocene. 

On the eastern margin, near the coast, these rocks are found in a few isolated patches, 
lying very unconformably on the upturned edges or abutting against the inclined surfaces of 
the older sandstones, and in most cases filled with fossils in an excellent state of preser- 
vation. Overlying both these sedimentary formations, and often protruding through them in 
the form of dikes, are volcanic rocks, poi'phyries, trachytes, and pumice. The elevation of 
the range commenced long before the deposition of the post-pliocene beds, and is demonstrated 
by the fact that they hardly ever attain an elevation of more than four or five hundred feet 
alaove the sea ; and on the west slope, where the disturbance has been least, they thin out 
almost imperceptibly along the eastern margin. An exception to this exists, however, in the 
high mountains of Santa Maria, which are capped by thin beds of fine-grained, soft sandstones, 
and a little limestone, which, although without fossils, are, no doubt, members of the same 
formation. 

A very interesting feature of the older beds, or mesa sandstone, as I shall call it for con- 
venience, is the presence of immense numbers of fragments of volcanic rocks. These arc 
markedly diffirent in character from the more modern outflows which have covered alike 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 115 

both formations, and by their hardness have assisted in preserving the tabular form of nearly 
all the hills. In some of the beds these pebbles and boulders are so numerous as to produce 
a conglomerate, in which the cementing sandstone is a comparatively unimportant part. From 
the manner of their occurrence they show that their origin was somewhere east even of the 
present coast line: tiius, about Magdalena Bay and toward Comondu and Purisima, they 
are small in size, few in number, and very much rolled, as if they had been brougiit a long 
distance ; but, on approaching that part of the coast from Cliuenca to Loreto, tlieir numbers 
and size increase steadily, and in the same ratio is the decrease in the amount of attrition to 
which they have been subjected. In no place have the rocks from which these boulders were 
derived, been encountered, and they certainly do not underlie the mesa sandstones at any 
point where the base of that formation has been seen. At Sauce, and again at Sta. Gertrudes, 
I have seen this rock lying directly in contact with the granite, but without any trace of an 
intermediate formation. The only solution of the difficulty, therefore, that has occurred to 
me is that, at the time of the deposition of the mesa sandstones, there was a body of land 
lying where is now the Gulf of California, and near the present position of Carmen Island, 
and that the volcanic boulders which make so important a part of these sandstones were de- 
rived from that land. The line of elevation of this portion of the peninsula is very close to 
the east coast. From La Paz to beyond Moleje, the summit would probably not average more 
than 15 miles in a direct line from the beach, and it is often within five miles. The whole 
country is elevated, with a slope so gentle as to be almost imperceptible, from the shores of 
the Pacific to this summit, and from there descends to the gulf so precipitously as to render 
it very difficult, and not unfrequently impossible, of ascent. Nor is there any anticlinal axis ; 
the mountains look as if they had been broken off rather than pushed up, and it is not im- 
possible that more detailed investigation than I was able to make will demonstrate the exist- 
ence of an enormous fault along this line of coast. 

After leaving the mass of mica slate between Triunfo and Todos Santos, the road runs 
over gravel mesas or tables which extend northward, frequently interrupted by water-courses 
and little valleys, for about sixty miles, along the coast from Todos Santos. These tables 
show in places a distinct terrace structure. At the point of their greatest development they 
are about thirty feet high each, one above the other. From this they fall to nearly nothing. 
Looking eastward, can be seen far inland low, broad, flat-topped hills, which gradually ap- 
proach the coast, and eventually, about eighteen miles north of the rancho of the Innocentes, 
and perhaps fifty miles south of the bay of Magdalena, they reach the beach. From here to 
the bay of Ballones they continue, sometimes close to the coast, at others retreating more or 
less inland, and always quite low near the Pacific, but rising gradually to the eastern summit, 
where they culminate in the high ridge of the Sierra Gigantea, near Loreto, there they reach 
the height of over three thousand feet. These hills were formerly connected as one entire 
plain, but are now divided into innumerable flat tables, often separated by caiions of a thou- 
sand feet deep. At the Salado, near Magdalena Bay, and about six miles inland, the canon 
shows a good section of about sixty feet high. The rocks here are fine-grained, soft sand- 
stone below, overlaid by soft calcareous beds with many casts of fossils — all, so far as I could 
determine them, belonging to living species. The same beds continue as far south as we saw 
this group of rocks, but on going eastward the limestones disappear within a few miles, hav- 
ing probably been removed by denudation. The underlying soft sandstones, interstratified 
with some white shale, continue inland to a point a little beyond the old mission of San Luis 
Gonzaga, where they thin out, and are underlaid by a coarse-grained, more compact sandstone, 
filled with volcanic boulders, of which mention is made above. 

Before leaving this part of the coast a word about the large island of Margarita would be 
in place. We did not visit it, and could obtain no reliable information about it ; but, from its 
contour, and from its being reputed to contain veins of silver and copper, it is in all probabil- 
ity a mass of either granite or mica slate. 

About San Luis are many dikes of a light-gray porphyry, filled with small white crystals 
of feldspar. These dikes, striking with great uniformity within a degree or two of the 
magnetic north, disturb both the sedimentary formations for nearly twenty miles. The 
post-pliocene beds, which also contain a few boulders of volcanic origin, probably derived 
from the underlying strata, are sometimes covered with a " pedregal" * of rounded pebbles, 
which render travelling extremely unpleasant. Near San Luis, the surface of the earth is 
covered in many places with flakes and scales of selenite, sometimes of several pounds in 
weight, and doubtless derived from the destruction of the shells which once existed in these 
rocks, and the chemical recombination of their constituent lime. From San Luis to the 
eastern summit, above the Tinaja, the mesas rise with a gentle curve, the dip being to the 
southwest. No fossils were found, the post-pliocene had disappeared, but in one or two 
places pieces of table were seen capped by thin sheets of basaltiform rocks. 

No traces of metamorphism were encountered here, though the hills but a few miles farther 

* This word, for which I know no exact English equivalent, is used to designate a tract covored witli 
a great number of loose stones. Many spots on the Pacific slope are so covered to a depth of several 
feet, and witliout a particle of soil visible, over areas varying from a few acres to many miles in extent. 
I have adopted the word partly because of its descriptive brevity, and partly because it is in common 
use wherever this state of things exists. 



116 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

north are most unmistakably mctamorphic. Nor did we encounter anj- volcanic rocks in place 
on our trail. The nearest we saw were some small patclies at the distance of several miles 
northwest of the rancho of Jesus Maria. My lamented friend Remond, who visited the 
region just north of La Paz two or three years ago, says that there are there extensive tracts 
covered by volcanic beds. 

Descending the eastern face of the range at the Tinaja, the rocks, entirely unaltered, retain 
so nearly a horizontal position tliat the dip cannot be detected in a short section, and, except 
one or two slight twists of very limited extentj the same remark will hold good for the whole 
face of the range to the Gigantea itself, inclusive. Carmen Island, in the offings, appears to be- 
long to the same formation, having a low dip to the northeast, with a slight disturbance at 
its southwest or higher extremity. At the Chuenca, about 15 miles south of Loreto, we en- 
countered the first traces of metamorphism. Here the sandstones lose, to a great extent, 
their sandy structure, but retain very markedly their stratification. This peculiarity exists 
almost everywhere where the rocks have been altered. The most notable exception to the 
rule is found nearMoleje, where the loss of stratification is restricted to one or two hills only, 
and even there seems rather to be due to a complete crushing of the rocks by upheaval, than 
to a blending of the strata. Half a dozen miles north of Loreto is a group of hills of post- 
pliocene age, highly fossiliferous. The largest of these, perhaps 600 feet high, is known as 
the Cerro de los Ostiones. The fossils are in a pretty good state of preservation, are all living 
species, but the variety is not very great. Between the mesa ^sandstones and the post-plio- 
cene is a ridge of about 300 feet high, and perhaps two or three miles long. It is composed 
of a brown trachyte, and tilts the more modern formation to an angle of 55° east, with a strike 
N. 10" W. mag. Half a dozen miles farther north there are spots in the post-pliocene 
entirely destitute of fossils, their place being taken by scams of selenite. The same fossilifer- 
ous rocks extend along the base of the range, resuming their horizontal position, and gradu- 
ally thinning out, the last encountered being near San Juan, and a few miles east of the base 
of the Gigantea. Between the bay of San Juan and that of San Bruno there are some low 
hills of highly metamorphosed mesa sandstone, in one place exhibiting a distinct synclinal 
axis, the strike being still nearly north and south. On the inland side these are flanked by thin 
beds of the more recent rocks, overlaid by a heavy deposit of volcanic origin, principally grayish 
trachytes. South of San Bruno, the same hills extend a few miles, eventually hidden by the 
post-pliocene beds. Going westward from San Juan to Sauce, at the base of the Gigantea, 
the road first crosses a narrow alluvial valley, then passes between hills of horizontal post- 
pliocene, covered with the same trachyte found toward the coast ; the lower of these two 
rocks abuts horizontally against the face of strata of highly metamorphic mesa sandstones, 
dipping at an angle of 35°. These sandstones, within a mile, assume a horizontal position, 
and in turn abut against a mass of granite which forms the base at this point of the Gigantea. 
The granite is a small fragment exposed by denudation, about four miles long and a mile wide, 
and the sandstones lie horizontally on and against it in such a manner as to prove that they 
have not been materially disturbed since the deposition. The enormous succession of beds, 
rising with an almost perpendicular face, and forming the whole height of the mountain, is 
unbroken, except by a few dikes, which also cut through the granite and the sandstones lying 
on its opposite sides. 

The section exhibited by the face of this mountain proves the origin of the immense sheets 
of volcanic rocks which cover so much of the surface of this region. Except the volcano of 
the Virgenes and the few cones about San Ignacio, no true volcanoes occur on the peninsula. 
The country has been covered by means of the inconspicuous dikes which, having exliausted 
themselves in inundating the neighborhood with a fiery deluge, have become at once and for- 
ever extinct. From the summit of the Gigantea to the west coast, the section is practically 
identical with that described from Magdalena Bay to the gulf. Regularly stratified mesa 
sandstones, cut by dikes and capped with a nearly continuous sheet of volcanic rocks, extend 
to near the edge of the plains. The metamorphism of the sandstones disappears by almost 
insensible gradation below Comondu, and, almost simultaneously with the loss of the volcanic, 
we find again the post-pliocene coming in, first v.'ith a tliin edge of limestone, nearly made up 
of fossils, afterward making up the entire thickness of the low mesas, so far as could be 
seen by the sections in the arroyos. From San Juanico south, for half a dozen miles, is a tract 
a mile or two wide, covered by barren sand-hills, and showing no underlying rocks. Back of 
this are low tables and rolling ground made up of the lower beds of the post-pliocene, without 
fossils, but filled with seams of selenite, and in most places overlaid by a deposit of volcanic 
rocks. This continues to near the mission of Puri'sima, where the mesa sandstones coming 
in more or less disturbed, lying in gentle undulations, the post-pliocene covers them uncon- 
formably and rapidly thins out. From the Purisima to the summit the older strata continue, 
slightly disturbed, and in the higher parts more or less metamorphosed. The metamorphism 
continues past the summit to the coast. Here, for the first time, appears some trace of an 
anticlinal axis, the hill between the main crest and the gulf being more marked, the distance 
being greater, and the rocks dipping in various directions, an easterly dip predominating. Near 
Moleje the disturbance seems to have reached its climax ; in some places the stratification is 
completely lost, the rocks are altered as if by the action of mineral waters, and look as if 
they had been burned in a kiln, and considerable quantities of alum and sulphur are said to 



EXPLORATIOX OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 11^ 

exist in the vicinity. Selenite also exists, but not in the quantities that have been reported 
by irresponsible parties, whose aim was to speculate on the credulity or love of gain of per- 
sons who were unable to test their veracity. The existence of sulphate of lime in some of 
the metamorphic rocivs about Moleje renders it probable that at least a portion of them may 
belong to the more modern formation, since, should they prove to be the older mesa sand- 
stones, this will be the first instance in Lower California where gypsum has been found in 
that formation. 

For about fifty miles northward along the coast the road continues on the east side of the 
main summit, crossing innumerable ridges all made up of metamorphosed mesa sandstones 
very much disturbed, and with a prevailing southwesterly dip, striking nearly parallel with 
the direction of the peninsula. Soon after crossing the main ridge the rocks begin to lose 
their metamorphic character and to lie more regularly, assuming again their gentle south- 
westerly inclination. Directly where the trail reaches the summit of the ridge are several 
large dikes of trachyte, the principal one of which strikes X. 53° W. magnetic, and, pro- 
jecting above the surrounding rocks and soil, runs a mile or more like a wall. No farther 
change takes place in the geology until within a mile or two of San Ignacio, where a fine 
little volcano cone towers isolated al)ove the neighboring tables, and sends out a sheet of 
lava over every thing in the direction of the Pacific coast. Almost at the same time, the 
post -pliocene I'ocks show themselves under the volcanic, and in a few hundred yards reach 
the base of the section in every arroyo, the older rocks disappearing under them. 

Going northeast from San Ignacio the section is the same, except that the volcanic does 
not end in a mile or two as toward Moleje. Peak after peak and ridge after ridge of trachyte, 
porphyry, and pumice, succeed each other, forming an apparently continuous belt to the 
Volcano de las Virgenes close to the gulf coast. Turning more to the north, and leaving this 
volcanic belt to the right, the ti'ail strikes directly for the main range and enters a highly 
metamorphosed and somewhat undulating mass of the mesa sandstones, which here lose en- 
tirely for a time their " table-mountain " structure. The chain, here very jagged and broken 
in appearanc?, makes a sudden bend away fi-om the main coast, and, curving around again, ap- 
proaches it near Sta. Gertrudes. From this part of the range the tables slope down as before, 
toward the Pacific, but, instead of reaching the coast, are cut off by a small range, known as 
the Santa Clara Mountains, which are said to be granitic, and which extend almost all the way 
from the bay of Ballenas to that of San Sebastian Viscaino. The region included within the 
before-mentioned curve of the main ridge and the gulf coast is a barren, sterile tract, made 
up of low irregular riilges of metamorpliic sandstone, without water or grass, and hardly able 
to support the straggling growth of cactus which alone gives a semblance of life to this most 
inhospitable waste. AVater exists at but three spots on this side of the mountains : 
Sta. Marta, as a little stream trickling along a rocky bed; at Rosarita, as a spring without 
overflow, and again at San Juan, in a canon close to the base of the ridge, as a little tepid 
spring, with a rivulet of but a few rods in length running out of it. From San Juan the trail 
climbs directly up the face of the mountain, here called El Obispo (The Bishop), and, entering 
the head of a rocky caiion, follows it down to Sta. Gertrudes, while east of the mountain, 
the usual amount of slight disturbances exists ; as soon as the summit is passed, the sandstones 
resume their nearly horizontal position and retain it almost without interruption, but without 
again losing their metamorphism. Directly at Sta. Gertrudes a small mass of granite shows 
itself in the caiion, cut into and exposed by the denuding etfects of the mountain-stream. 
This is but a few rods in extf nt, and for the next two leagues on the road to San Borja the 
metamorphic sandstones continue, interrupted but once by a large and very peculiar-looking 
dike of dark-gray cellular trachyte. This is exposed by an excellent section of about forty 
feet high, on the nearly vertical bank of an arroyo. The sandstone was uplifted from below 
over a space of a couple of hundred feet, the sides rising in regular and gently converging 
curves. The volcanic rock filled the cavity thus formed and broke through in the midtlle. 
Subsequently the whole mass was denuded to a nearly perfect level, and the section now pre- 
sents the appearance of a very blunt wedge of trachyte with concave faces, on which lie 
curved strata of sandstone. The dike, which, from its greater hardness, resisted longest the 
denuding forces, now strews the surface with its fragments for many hundreds of yards in 
every direction. 

Soon after leaving this dike the trail enters a broad desert valley, covered with a scattered 
volcanic " pedrcgal " and underlaid by thin horizontal beds of non-fossiiiferous shale, resem- 
bling in every respect the post-pliocene of farther south. In two or three leagues the shale 
thins out and disappears entirely, the only rock remaining being granite covered in places 
by a thin soil of granitic sand. The higher hills are also granite, but are usually capped by 
beds of volcanic and sometimes sub-basaltiform rocks, with a marked inclination to the south- 
west. These may be considered as outliers of the mesa structure, and as the connecting link 
between the middle and northern sections into which I have divided the peninsula. In some 
places the lavas are underlaid by thin beds of post-pliocene, and near San Sebastian I ob- 
served a few hills in which the whole series was represented ; the volcanic on top, underlaid 
b_v post-pliocene, the mesa "sandstones under this, and granite forming the great mass of the 
hill. The sedimentary rock wiiere they thus exist is quite thin, forming with the overlying 
volcanic cap not more, perhaps, than a couple of hundred feet in thickness. North i'rom 



118 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

San Sebastian, to the soutli side of the range of hills behind Yubai, the whole country is 
capped with greater or less regularity by volcanic tables, which at San Borja are three or four 
hundred feet thick, and, while they are very thin at Trinidad, southwest of San Borja are 
underlaid for a mile or two by from two to four hundred feet in thickness of post-pliocene 
sandstone and conglomerates. About Rosaritothe lavas generally disapjjcar a few miles from 
the coast, the outer hills being low, rolling, and composed of a soft granite in which some 
copper stains have been observed, and some unsuccessful mining done. One little group of 
hills about a league to the northwest of Rosarito is capped by some post-pliocene outliers 
entirely isolated, the nearest other locality of this rock which we saw being about fifteen miles 
distant. From this point to the valley of San Andreas the whole country is granite, cut by 
a dike of blackish porphyry at Santo Domingo, where there is a small spring of water. 
Another dike at San Andreas acts as a dam, and forms quite a large lake and extensive 
marsh. In the valley of San Andreas and the adjoining low mesas, the northern a mile or 
two wide, the southern extending probably almost to Yubai, are beds of a soft, light-gray 
sandstone horizontally stratified and without fossils. Judging from analogy and lithological 
resemblance, I consider this to be post-pliocene. 

About here, or rather between here and San Borja, the whole topographical system of the 
country undergoes a decided change. 

The table-lands, gently sloping up from the Pacific to near the Gulf coast, disappear. The 
western side, first broken into low, rolling hills, begins to form a^decided mountain-range, con- 
nected, it is true, with the eastern side, but by cross-ridges instead of tables. 

The horizontal stratified mesa sandstones still retain a strong development, but cling 
close to the cast coast, and eventually disappear in a series of low, ragged ridges near the 
bay of San Luis. The chain, however, is continued as a granite ridge some distance farther 
up the coast, finally dropping as a series of lava-capped hills, falling lower and lower until 
they are lost to sight in the distant deserts of the northeast. In the mean time the western 
range, constantly assuming grander proportions, covers with its spurs more than half the 
width of the peninsula, and, running northward, continues across the boundary into Upper 
California, uniting with the San Gabriel range. 

From the northeastern margin of the mesa of Santa Ana where the trail strikes the high 
hills, the rocks are all of mesa sandstone, highly metamorphosed, forming quartzites, mica 
and talcose slates and jaspers. These continue east to the coast with variable strikes of from 
N. 24° W. to N. 40" W. magnetic, the prevaihng dip being high to the northeast. Along the 
east face of the range they thin out and disapi^ear about three leagues above Calamujuet, 
being replaced by granite. 

At Sta. Maria the summits of the highest parts of the ridge are capped by post-pliocene 
sandstones covered with volcanic rocks. From here to Agua Dulce the same structure con- 
tinues. The plains and valleys are of granite, the higher hills being capped as at 
Sta. Maria. From Agu^ Dulce the hills fell rapidly, the post-pliocene eventually forming 
the valley land, the granite disappearing and the few low tables that exist being made up in 
part or in whole of volcanic rock. This continues to the margin of the main chain within 
a league of the deserted mission of San Fernando. The chain here consists of a core of 
granite, on both flanks of which are stratified volcanic rocks, ash, pumice, and harder lavas 
lying highly uptilted against the granite, but assuming a horizontal position on the west side 
at a short distance from the granite. 

These volcanic beds are soon succeeded by horizontal stratified beds of post-pliocene 
sand and gravel which extend to the coast, covered in places with a rough pedregal. Fol- 
lowing up the coast they form low tables, usually at some distance from the beach, but 
extending to within four leagues of San Tehno, where they are cut off by a spur of the higher 
range coming down to the ocean. As seen from the coast road the high chain inland appears 
to retain its structure as we saw it at San Fernando. 

At San Quentin, near the salt-ponds, are two or three hills composed of hard, gray, cellular 
volcanic rock, in parts having a sub-basaltiform structure. They are entirely isolated and 
cover a comparatively small area. From San Quentin there is no rock, except the post-plio- 
cene on or near the coast, for 10 leagues northward to where the high range sends down a 
series of spurs. From here the features of the country suffer a marked change. The higher 
chain, with its granite core tipped and bordered with volcanic rocks, occupies the whole 
western half of the peninsula from this point to the boundary. A border of rolling hills of 
trachyte and porphyry, about a league or a league and a half in width, forms the flank of the 
range. Crossing this, the i-oad enters granite, which then continues uninterruptedly for more 
than 10 leagues along the crooked trail to the old mission of San Vicente. 

At San Tehno there is a curious belt of a mile or more in width, in which the granite 
presents almost the appearance of a conglomerate. It is filled with masses of a darker, finer- 
grained granitoid rock, very much harder than the including mass, and in fragments of all 
sizes from a cubic inch to two or three tons' weight. These included masses are, so to speak, 
sub-angular ; that is to say, they present imperfect faces, of which all the corners and angles 
are blunted, exactly as if, having been torn off from the walls of a fissure, they have become 
entangled iu the molten mass of what is now granite, their surf;\ce partially melted, and, on 
cooling, they have become thoroughly welded into the matrix. This welding is so perfect 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 119 

that oil breaking the rock the cracks cross the Hue of union with even greater facility than 
they will follow it. 

Six leagues from San Telmo is the Delpliina copper-mine at a place called the S.ilada. 
The including rocks are all granite, and although only one mine has been opened, it is 
claimed that there are croppings for many other veins in the vicinity. From the Salada, the 
road again approaching slightly toward the coast, we encounter directly north of San Vicente 
more volcanic rocks, but for the next half dozen leagues only as caps to the higher points. 

Approaching Santo Tomas, the volcanic belt widens, extending inland at least beyond 
this mission, which is 21 miles from the coast. 

Passing here, the road again approaches the coast and winds through and skirts hills of 
volcanic origin to the Saucal 12 leagues. The rocks are mostly a black porphyry with small 
crystals of white feldspar. Along this part of the route the granite has almost entirely dis- 
appeared, only forming the bases of some of the hills. But in a league northeast from the 
Saucal it reasserts itself, the porphyries and trachytes thinning out and disappearing as a 
series of low hills along the coast. From here to the boundary the granites make the entire 
range. Along this coast for a few miles, and extending up the valley of the Tia Juana, are 
some low terraced tables of post-pliocene age which abut horizontally against the granite. 
Those below the river end abruptly near its mouth, but those on the east side continue to 
flank the hills as a low mesa, reaching the coast near San Diego. 

The region east of the summit of this range and north from Santa Maria is entirely 
unknown geologically. It is said to be a dry, arid desert, mostly covered with loose sand, 
with some fertile little spots scattered through it such as Santa Catarina. So far as I could 
learn by carefully cross-questioning several Indians, it appears that the mountains occupy 
the western half or two-thirds of the peninsula, the remainder being nearly level. It was 
with extreme regret that we felt ourselves obliged to neglect this district, but it was outside 
of the tract which we had undertaken to examine. The necessary delays we had been obliged 
to make elsewhere had kept us much beyond the time we had allowed ourselves, our mules 
were nearly exhausted, as well as our funds, and, after three or four months of exile, without 
the sight of a letter or newspaper, we were all anxious to catch the first possible glimpse of 
civilization, and find out what had been going on in the world. We, therefore, consoled 
ourselves with the belief that " that corner wasn't of much account anyhow." 

MINING. 

As is the case in almost every part of the Pacific side of North America, mining excite- 
ments have been raised from time to time in nearly every portion of Lower California. 
Search has been made for all the more valuable metals, and for coal, until arrastres and 
" prospect-holes " are as common as in the Sierra Nevada of the " Golden State." 

Unfortunately for the honest miner, whose zeal and faith in most instances far outweighed 
his knowledge, the very great majority of these ill-directed eiforts have proved abortive. Coal 
has been hunted for on the slight inducement of masses of black mica in granite: gold, silver, 
and copper mines have been opened in unaltered tertiary rocks, and the history of mining in 
the territory has been the usual one of ignorance, stupidity, and disaster. 

But, while so many unfortunates have been wasting their little means, learning, when it 
was too late, how completely they had deceived themselves^, a few have been more fortunate. 
Near the two extremities of the peninsula have been found mines which will bear a fair com- 
parison with similar mines in other parts of the world. Below La Paz have been found 
veins of silver ores of sufficient size and richness to yield a fair if not a very large profit to 
their owners, as recent shipments of bullion to San Francisco will demonstrate, and between 
San Telmo and Santo Tomas the recent workings of the Delphina mine promise success for 
that region. 

Gold has been faithfully sought for over nearly the whole length and breadth of the coun- 
try. It is claimed that in the granite mountains of the vicinity of the cape, veins of gold- 
bearing quartz exist, and that small but rich placers are known. Tlieir never having been 
worked throws a grave suspicion over the veracity of the statement. 

It is a well-authenticated fact that, in the arroyo running down from San Antonio to 
Ventana Bay, gold has been washed during the wet seasons by women in bateas or wooden 
bowls almost from time immemorial. Farther north in many of the caiions in the granite 
mountains, I " prospected " the gravel carefully, but failed to ever find a " color." That is, 
in plain English, I washed the gravel in a pan, miner-fashion, and failed to find even the 
slightest particle of gold. The reason is easily found. That the metal does exist here is an 
hidisputable fact, but the quantity is so small that it would take all the gold from Santa Ger- 
trudis to San Diego to make one good placer. At many places quartz-mining has been under- 
taken, but as often abandoned. Old shafts and tunnels and dilapidated arastras arc scattered 
all over the country, from San Ignacio to Rosario, but, wherever their history was remem- 
bered, we were told that the miners failed to find the vein, or that the quantity of gold was 
too little to pay. 

In the vicinity of Triunfo and San Antonio, silver-mining has been carried on in a small 
way ever since the time of the missions. The ore being of a highly refractory character, 



120 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

where iindecomposed by siirfoce influences, baffled the skill of the early miners ; who, con 
sequeiidy, contented themselves by taking out and working the " azogue " metal or decora 
posed surface ore, which would amalgamate without roasting. 

The result is, tliat almost every vein has a series of shallow openinga along nearly its whole 
length, from which the yellowish friable vein-stone filled with free silver has been taken. 

More recently a couple of mines, called the San Pedro and San Nicolas, were opened by a 
company from Mazatlan, and have been worked in an inefficient and irregular manner for 
nine or ten years. The better class of the ore has been selected, and sent to Germany for 
reduction. The total expenses per ton for mining, sorting, and shipping, up to the time of 
delivery to the mill, have averaged about $74. Notwithstanding this heavy burden, the mines 
have been profitable to their owners. They are still being worked, and, in spite of all sorts 
of disadvantages resulting from mismanagement and ignorance, pay to the company a fair 
return on the investment. 

In the hands of an intelligent and educated miner, with a good mill to reduce both first 
and second class ores on the spot, these mine s would become of immense value. 

On the same vein, and at a distance of perhaps three miles from the " Mexican Mines," 
are the mines of the Triunfo Company. I have already described these in another part of 
my report so fully, that it is unnecessary to say more here. The last two steamers from 
Lower California have brought up returns from the mill to the amount of over $30,000, as 
the result of about six weeks' actual work. The probable run vmH be in the neighborhood of 
$20,000 per month, and the company will be perfectly justified in doubling their mill capacity 
just as soon as they can get their machinery on the ground. Their least trouble will be to 
find ore to work. 

Besides the Triunfo and ilexican mines, thei'e are others in the same district, which have 
been so far opened as to prove that all they require is energetic and intelligent labor for a 
few months, to put them in a condition to rival their already successful neighbors ; and I see 
no reason why, in a couple of years more, this region should not be one of the most thriving 
and productive silver districts on the coast; provided American capital, American energy, 
and American intelligence, under the security of the American Government, could take the 
mines in hand and develop them as their value merits. 

The Cacachilas district is claimed as rich in silver, but no mines have as yet been developed 
there. For reasons, explained elsewhere, we did not visit it, and I shall pass it by with the 
mere mention. 

Silver-mines are also claimed to exist on the east coast opposite the island of the Guar- 
dian Angel. If this is a fact, the knosvledge of it exists only as a mere rumor, and certainly 
no work worthy of mention has ever been done. 

The accounts were so vague and the location of the " mines" so imperfectly known that 
we did not consider it worth while to spend a week hunting for them. I believe their exist- 
ence even to be very problematical. 

Copper stains and little streaks of this metal exist in almost innumerable localities 
through the peninsula, both in the metamorphosed mesa sandstones and in the granites. 
The principal localities where any work has been done are at the Calabazas, between Triunfo 
and La Paz, at the Sauce near Loreto, Larroque's mine near the mouth of the Arroyo del 
Paraiso, at the northern San Antonio, and at the Delphina mine at La Salada. 

At the first of these places some mining has been done, the work stopped, and the owners 
are waiting to sell. They say the mines are good. At the Sauce the same condition of 
affairs exists. The owners seemed to consider it to their interest to prevent our examining 
the mine, and we only know its character from information. Mr. Ashburner, Avho was em- 
ployed to examine it, has no confidence in it. Larroque's mine is one about which no doubt 
can exist, and the other in the same vicinity is said to be almost identical. 

The various mines about San Antonio, in the "Frontiers," are apparently similar to Lar- 
roque's, although it is said that very good " indications " existed iu„ihe bottom of the shaft 
of the Azul mine, now caved in. 

Some very rich ore is reported to have been brought from out-crops on the granite plain, 
between Santa Maria and San Fernando Mission, but, so far as I could learn, little or no work 
has been done to test the veins. Our guides were ignorant of the locality, and we passed it 
only to learn of it on reaching San Diego. 

At the Delphina mine much work of a good substantial character has been done, and the 
greater part of it with a view to legitimate mining. The vein looks extremely promising 
above, where we had an opportunity of examining it, and, according to the best infoiraation 
we could obtain, does not change its character, except ibr the better, along the line of shaft 
some 150 feet deep. 

The absence of everybody who knew the shaft, and the fear of foul air and other dangers 
incidental to a deserted mine, prevented us from going down to examine the vein along its 
depth. 

A good proof of the value of the mine exists in the presence of between 300 and 400 
sacks of excellent ore awaiting shipment, besides which, I have .learned that several hun- 
dred sacks are stacked on the beach, ready to ship as soon as a rise in the market j^rice of 
copper shall enable the owners to sell without serious sacrifice. 



EXPLORATION' OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 121 

Veins of the baser metals are reported to occur on the peninsula, but many a year must 
pass before they can be of any value to the country. (loal has been searched for unsuccess- 
fully. I heard a rumor of its occurrence near the Ojo de Liebre, in the vicinity of Scam- 
mon's Lagoon, but the rocks there are post-pliocene. It may prove to be asphaltum such as 
is found in Santa Barbara and Los Angeles Cour.ties, California, and which has been repeat- 
edly mistaken for coal by ignorant persons. 

Sulphur exists in small quantities abou'. Moleje, and is said to be found abundantly in the 
vicinity of tlie volcano of the Virgins, ffypsum occurs scattered over many parts of the 
table-land, and in sheets in the rocks, especially on the western slope. It is most abundant, 
however, about Moleje, where extravagant stories have been told about its quantity. 

Salt-lakes exist on Carmen Island, at San Quentiu, and the Ojo de Liebre, sufficiently 
extensive to be one day a source of great revenue ; but so long as the salt has to pass two 
custom-houses on its' way to a market, the duties will consume all the profits. 

FISHERIES. 

Along the western coast, in almost every large bay, whalers have been in the habit of spend- 
ing a whole season at a time for many years past. Every season finds from three to a dozen 
whaling-vessels in Magdalena Bay and its adjoining estuary, and the proceeds of a season are 
so regular that year after year the same vessel is found at its accustomed berth. The prin- 
cipal bays frequented by the vessels engaged in this business are Magdalena, and 
the two like bays, one below San Ignacio, and the other by the Ojo de Liebre, the latter 
known as Scammon's Lagoon. This opens by a narrow mouth into the broad open bay of 
San Sebastian Viscaino ; the other, which has no other name than La Laguna, opens into 
Ballenas Bay. 

Other parts, such as San Juanico, Sto. Domingo, and others farther north, are visited fre- 
i|aently, but are not the sites of regular fisheries. Besides the whale-fisheries, the whole 
Pacific side of the peninsula furnishes unusual facilities for seal-hunters. Seals swarm by 
myriads everywhere, and t"liis branch of industry has been heretofore almost entirely neglected 
in Lower California. Nor are these all ; shoals of fish frequent these shores in such abun- 
dance, that the surface is often agitated for hundreds of yards by a school playing almost 
within arm's reach of the sands. On either coast there are countless spots where fisheries 
could be established with all the facilities of a good beach, and excellent port and 
unlimited C[uantities of salt. Besides these, there is another source of revenue in the waters, 
not to be despised — the immense beds of pearl oysters. They are principally in the gulf. 
Pearl-fishing has been for over a hundred years a regular business, and one of the most 
profitable in Lower California. It is estimated that in the last century and a half upwai'd of 
five and a half million dollars' worth of pearls, and pearl shells have been taken in the Califor- 
nian waters. 

The fishing comirtences in May and continues to October. It is conducted by companies, 
the divers being principally Yaqui Indians from the other side of the gulf, -who receive, in 
addition to a trifling pay, a portion of the proceeds of tlie fishery. 

Between their ignorance and the rascality of their employers, the poor fellows, who do the 
work at the risk of their lives, come in for a very small share of the profits. 

Diving-bells and submarine armor have been tried at great expense, but their use has 
been abandoned. They could not comptte with the naked Indians in cheapness, nor rapidity 
of work. 

AGRICULTURE. 

With the great extent of desert and rocky land that covers so much of the territory, Lower 
California can never aspire to a high rank as an agricultural country. But there is no pic- 
ture without its brightest side Even in the v/orst parts, the weary traveller, after journey- 
ing day after day over rocks or sands, will suddenly find himself hi the midst of a little Eden. 
In the most inhospitable parts of the peninsula, these little valleys are scattered through the 
mountains, as if to redeem the country from the bad name that all its neighbors seem to agree 
in giving it. It is difficult to imagine a s|)ot more beautiful than Santa Anita in San Joso 
valley ; more fertile than the neighborhood of San Jose or San Ignacio, more unexpected than 
Comondu or Purisima, or with a climate more perfect than Lower California. 

There is hardly a fruit, flower, or vegetable that will not grow in the open air in any val- 
ley in the country, and, of those that are cultivated, there is hardly one that requires care be- 
yond a little irrigation. 

In the granite mountains of the south are innumerable valleys, all capable of cultivation, 
all with fertile soil and most of them with an abundance of good water. The greater part of 
these are occupied, but there is still an immense quantity of unoccupied land, capable of being 
brought into an available condition with a trifling outlay of capital. 

The immense plains northeast of Magdalena Bay are covered with rich soil, and only re- 
(|uire wells to bring water to the surface for irrigation, to render theni available. There is, 
in this one tract, land enough to support a population of many thousanils, on which thei'e is 



122 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

not a single inliabitant. Among the table hills to the east of this plain are manj' small val- 
leys with good little tracts of bottom-land and plenty of water. Most of these are withou. 
inhabitants. A few such as Coinondu, Purlsima, Sta. Cruz, etc., are occupied, and in some, 
such as the first two of these, there are populations of twenty or thirty families. 

In the vicinity of Loreto, especially along the coast southward to Chuenca, there is much 
good land, without occupants, because there are no springs or running streams on it. Water 
can be obtained by wells, and there is no good reason why, if, required, it should not be all 
cultivated. This is also the case with the valley of San Andreas fiirther north, and the vallCy 
south of Moleje, through which our road ran before entering that town. 

San Ignacio, with its vineyards, its orchards of figs, oranges, and olives, and its forest of 
palms, is enough to reconcile one to the relinquishment of ambition and the adoption of the 
dream-life of the tropics ; while, a little farther north, in Sto. Tomas, San Vicente, Guadalupe, 
and a dozen other valleys, the farmer can cultivate his fields of grain, live in the shadow of 
his own vine and fig tree, or, if he prefers it, shade his house with the palm of the tropics, 
and tlie oak and sycamore of more northern climes. 

J GRAZING. 

At the time of our passing through the country, with the exception of some spots which 
ratlier proved the rule, the whole country was clothed with an abundance of good grass. But 
this was an unusually good year. There are times when, in all the lower grounds, the grass 
will be so killed by drought that were it not for trees, such as mesquit and lipua, all the 
animals would die of starvation. But even in the dryest seasons, these trees, as well as some 
smaller ones and bushes, retain their freshness, and the horses, mules, and horned cattle feed 
on them with avidity. 

In the higher table-mountains from San Ignacio to San Borja, the grass is said to be al- 
ways good, on account of the dews and fogs, and cattle flourish here when there is not a 
mouthful of grass on the lower lands. North of Rosario, the forage-plants are similar to those 
of Upper California, and the climate is more like that of the adjoining regions north than 
south. It is said that in the years I860 and 1864, when a large proportion of the stock of 
Upper California died of starvation, there was little or no sufl:ering south of San Diego. The 
greater part of this region is suitable for sheep-raising, the dense thorny thickets of the south 
having given place to a less aggressive growth, and the climate being sufficiently mild to per- 
mit a good crop of wool. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 123 



REPORT OF CAPTAIN C. M. SCAMMON, OF THE U. S. REVE- 
NUE SERVICE, ON THE WEST COAST OF LOWER CALI- 
FORNIA. 

From the boundary between the United States and Lower California the west coast 
presents a bold shore, with precipitous cliffs, or high mountain-slopes, as far south as Cape 
San Quentin, and, as laid down on the charts now in use, is in latitude 31° 05' 06" N., longitude 
116° 40' 33 " W. An indentation here occurs in the coast line, and the face of the country for 
a few miles toward the interior, and southward to Cape Bajo, is less elevated; about the port 
of San Quentin, the low sand-hills, covered scantily with a stunted growth of bushes, inter- 
mixed with cactus and prickly pear, or moderately elevated hills of volcanic origin, give this 
portion of the country a barren and uninviting aspect. 

Salt-springs, at the head of a lagoon 16 miles from the sea, where are erected six or 
eight houses and shanties to accommodate the salt-hands, constitute San Quentin proper. 
The salt is collected from January to August; this establishment, it is said, can be made to 
yield 1,000 to 1,500 tons annually. Vessels of small capacity usually go for the salt, as the 
depth of water on the bar is not over three fathoms, and the channel narrow. The usual number 
residing at San Quentin is six or eight individuals, who are compelled to go for fresh 
water some six miles across the lagoon. Rich copper-mines, reported to be not over 30 miles 
from the town, are uow about to be opened. 

From Cape Bajo to Passaedo Blanco Bay, the same bold coast continues, except to the 
south of San Geronimo Island, in latitude 30° 16' N., a distance of 10 or 15 miles ; shoal water 
is found extending several miles from the shore, which is marked by kelp, in places growing 
in thick beds that may be seen some distance from the mast-head of a vessel at sea ; the 
soundings vary from 5, 10, to 15 fathoms. From the last-named bay to the south side of the 
large open bay of San Sebastian Viscaino, moderately elevated land meets the coast, diversified 
occasionally by low, rolling sand-hills ; midway between Passaedo Blanco Bay and latitude 
28° N., lies a projecting point called Lagoon Head ; it appears like an island when seen at sea 
a distance of 15 miles or more: from this point southward to the extreme southern limit of 
San Sebastian Viscaino Bay, a low sandy desert country presents itself, reaching the moun- 
tain-range of the interior, a distance of from 20 to 50 miles. Immediately at the shore line, low, 
drifting sand-hills predominate, behind which lie three lagoons, bearing names given by 
whalemen, as follows : Upper Lagoon, Black Warrior Lagoon, and Scammon's Lagoon. Upper 
Lagoon, the most northern of the three, is but a few miles in extent, and has a narrow en- 
trance, with 10 feet of water on the bar at high tide. The American schooner Elsie, of 12 or 
15 tons, is the only vessel known to have dropped anchor in it. Black Warrior Lagoon 
is said to be 15 miles long, varying in width from three to five miles ; it is fronted by a sand- 
bar, as is invariably the case with all the lagoons on the California coast. The channel is 
tortuous, but vessels of 300 tons have passed in, drawing 13 feet, the depth being equal to 
that of Scammon's Lagoon bar. Several vessels resorted to Black Warrior Lagoon, thinking 
the whales would come there Jis well as in other lagoons ; but, strange as it may appear, it was 
not a f;ivorite haunt, and I believe but one whale has ever been captured there. In the year 
1859 the American whaling-bark Black Warrior was lost in this lagoon, while attempting^ 
to tow out : this disaster gave rise to the name. Scammon's Lagoon was first commert-ially 
known in 1858 ; the passage into it is lined by continuous breakers. On the south side, form.- 
ing a curve that extends four miles from the heads of the harbor, reaching to the bar that has. 
three fathoms depth of water on it in ordinary tides, detached breakers on the north plainly 
mark that side of the passage, it being of sufficient width to afford a good beating-channel for 
a vessel of 300 tons, drawing 12 feet. The brig Boston, with the schooner Marin as tender,, 
on a whaling, seal, and sea-elephant voyage, were the first vessels that traversed this hitherto 
unknown whaling-ground. At that time the waters were alive with whales, porpoises, and fish 
of many varieties ; turtle and seal basked upon the shores of low islands studding the lagoon ; 
and game of many species was so abundant that shoals of acres in extent, left bare by the 
receding tide, would be closely covered with geese, duck, snipe, and other species of sea-fowl 
that are found along the coast. The surrounding country for miles from its shores is a sandy 
desert, of decaying trap formation, with occasional clusters of dwarf shrubbery, and the uni- 
versal cactus and prickly pear, struggling, between an arid climate and sterile soil,*to maintain 
existence. 

On the south and southwest sides are seen high and boulder-like peaks, named Sta. Clara< 
51 



124: SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

Between them and the sea is a broken range that separates the lagoon from St. Bartolome Bay , 
from the bar to the extreme end of it is a distance of 35 miles, varying in width from four to 
12 miles. A good channel is found along the south shore, reaching to near the head, where is 
found an extensive salt-field, called Ojo Liebre. From the northern boundary of the lagoon to 
the north side of the channel it is mucli cut up with sand-shoals and low islands, the latter 
being the breeding-])laces of seals and sea-fowls. The whales found in the lagoon are the 
species known as the California Gray. From 1858 to 1861, many whaling-vessels resorted 
thither in the winter months, and a large amount of oil was taken during that time, the 
aggregate amounting to 22,250 barrels; valuing the oil at $15 per barrel, it amounts to 
$333,750. At the present time, however, so few whales are found there that it has been 
abandoned as a whaling-ground ; the decaying carcasses and bleaching bones strewed along 
the shores give evidence of the havoc made by the most enterprising and energetic class of 
seamen that sail under our national flag. The salt-fields of Ojo Lebre are capable of suppl}-- 
ing an almost unlimited quantity of excellent salt. Vessels of 400 tons' burden can find good 
anchorage within five miles of where the commodity can be embarked in lighters of 25 to 50 
tons' capacity ; every thing for man's subsistence, except fish, turtle, and sea-fowl, must come 
from the interior, or be imported by sea. The nearest fresh water is seven miles distant, and 
is of poor quality. A year or two after the whaling commenced, vessels were dispatched from 
San Francisco, Upper California, for cargoes of salt; the first two, after cruising a length of 
time off the desired port, returned with the account that no such lagoon existed, or, if it did, 
no chaimel could be found to get into it. Athird vessel was sent with a master determined to 
either find the place or " break something ; " he lost his vessel between Black Warrior and Upper 
Lagoon. Subsequently the late Captain Collins, of Snn Francisco, a gentleman of much expe- 
rience, and a skilful seaman, obtaining the most reliable information at hand, sailed for the 
place that seemed to baffle the efforts of his predecessors to find. In due time he arrived at 
the desired haven, without difficulty procured a cargo of salt, and returned to San Francisco. 
These voyages were followed up for a length of time, but the low price of the article com- 
pelled the proprietors to abandon the trade. A series of disasters seems to have occurred in 
the vicinity of these lugoons somewhat remarkable when considering the small number of 
vessels frequenting them, and the uniform good weather that usually prevails. The first was 
the British whale-ship Tower Castle, bound from the Pacific to Europe, wrecked on the 
south side of the mouth of Scammon's Lagoon, in 1836. From the meagre data obtained, it is 
supposed many things were saved from the ship. The crew built a comfortable house, and 
were well provided with cooking-utensils, etc. An officer, with a part of the men, in a boat, 
improved a favorable opportunity to leave for the nearest port to obtain a vessel to take oft 
their companions and whatever was of value that had been saved of either ship or cargo, but 
before their return the supply of fresh water became exhausted, none could be found by dig- 
ging, and a fruitless search of the back country for springs or standing pools in the ravines 
only hastened their end. On the return of their comrades to rescue them, a journal kept by 
the officer in charge revealed the sad intelligence that one after another had died from thirst, 
and the last writer makes mention of feeling the same symptoms as the others — "It is but 
reasonable to expect that my time will come soon" — this seems to have been the purport of 
the last lines penned by the remaining survivor of the ill-fated party. 

In the winter of 1859 the American barb Warrior, Captain Brown, was totally lost at the 
mouth of the lagoon which bears the name as before mentioned. No lives were lost by this 
disaster. Captain B. had a small schooner for a tender to his ship, which proved doubly valuable 
at the time. A number of vessels were lying at anchor under Lagoon Head, but a short dis- 
tance off, the officers and crew s of which were ready to give any assistance required, so that no 
suffering occurred by this mishap. The brig Advance, from San Francisco, California, bound 
to Scammon's Lagoon, for salt, was wrecked between Black Warrior and Upper Lagoon. In 
1861 the ship Speedwell grounded on a sunken rock when at anchor in the lagoon, and sunk; 
she was sold at auction as she lay, purchased by the masters of two whaling-vessels, who, 
with their ships' companies, raised the vessel, temporarily repaired the bottom, and sailed for 
Honolulu, where she was again sold. 

Following along the south shore of the bay of San Sebastian Viscaino to the westward, 
the mainland terminates in a moderately elevated cape, named Ft. St. Eugenio, thence to San 
Bartolome, or Bartholomew Bay. The coast makes a curve that is named Frenchman's Bay, 
on account of a French ship being wrecked there many years since. St. Bartolome Bay is an 
excellent harbor ; the north head, according to observations made by Sir E. Belcher, R. N., is 
in latitude 2*7" 40' N., longitude 114° 51' 20" AV. The anchoring-ground, however, to be 
vsheltered from all winds, is not large, but could accommodate three or four vessels. A large 
number may anciior on the northern .sh.ore, sheltered from all winds, except from the south- 
west. The face of the country here is high and broken, abounding in many varieties of 
trap-rock. The boundary of the bay to the south is a low gravel and shingle belt, connecting 
the high ridge that forms the Avestern shore. A small patch of low, sandy land, intermixed 
with broken shells and rock, lies on the northeast side of the bay ; and immediately back 
of this, again, you come to the same broken country, with but few traces of vegetation. 

St. Bartolome is the Turtle Bay of the whalers, and formerly was much frequented by the 
whalemen, who availed .themselves of this fine harbor to " break out and cooper their oil," 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 125 

refit ship, and change the routine of the whale-ship by catching turtle and crawfish, with 
which the waters of the bay swarmed. Wood may be had here, in case of extreme necessity, 
by searching for small, green bushes, in the low land about the eastern shore ; the roots of 
this bush are found running along near the surface of the ground, eight or ten feet long, and 
often six inches in diameter ; it burns well, and produces the required heat. 

At the time sailing-vessels were plying between San Francisco and Panama, occasionally 
one of the large number that were in distress for the necessary articles of provisions, put into 
Port St. Bartolorae, as laid down on some charts, hoping to have their wants, to some extent, 
relieved. One vessel is said to have anchored here with nearly all her crew down with the 
scurvy, and several pf them died. Numbers of hapless adventurers have found a final rest- 
ing-place along the shores of the inner bay ; and on an islet that breaks the ocean swell in 
front of the harbor, are found grave-boards, some rudely carved, giving the date of interment, 
other graves only marked by rough head-stones. Countless numbers of birds nightly cover 
the ground above them. The nearest watering-place to this bay is on Cedros Island, which 
will be spoken of hereafter. The same bold, rough coast continues to the southward, as far 
as the island of San Roque, in latitude 27' 14' N., longitude 114° 28' W. ; from thence the 
coast presents a more inviting appearance, the front-land bemg of moderate elevation, and in 
places nearly level, or gradually ascending toward the high ranges of the peninsula, and its 
green appearance gives evidence of a producing soil. This description of country extends 
along the coast near to Point Abreojos, which is in latitude 26° 42', longitude 113' 42' W. ; 
then again occurs a sandy coast, behind which are found small lagoons, with passages into 
them from the sea, that will only admit the smallest craft, or ordinary open boats, in very 
smooth weather at high tide ; the shore line at this point makes a sharp turn, running to the 
northeast, a distance of 28 miles, then turns abruptly again to the southeast, forming the 
open bay of Ballenas. The soundings of this bay are quite regular, reaching a long way off 
shore, gradually decreasing to three fathoms within a mile of the beach ; with the strong coast 
winds a heavy swell sets in, that causes a high sui-f along its shores. Whales of the humpback 
species formerly made this a favorite feeding-ground on account of myriads of small fish being 
found there. In fine weather countless numbers of pelican were seen making awkward 
plunges to catch their swimming food. 

Off Point Abreojos, an outlying reef of rocks extends six miles. Abreojos, or " Open-your- 
eye Point," seems a fitting name for it ; there is a passage between the reef and the main, 
that may be used in case of necessity. 

In latitude 26° 40' N., longitude 113° 15' W., Ballenas Lagoon connects itself with the 
sea. It was seen by Captain Pool, of the whaling-bark Sarah Warren, in 1858. He ex- 
amined the mouth of it in hopes of finding a safe passage in, but at that time did not suc- 
ceed. In the summer of 1859 he again visited it, in company with another vessel. At this 
time a passage was found which was deemed practicable for a vessel drawing 12 feet water. 
The passage is very narrow, not more than half a cable's length in width ; but at this partic- 
ular place a strong land-breeze blows in the morning, and the same may be said of the sea- 
breeze that comes from the opposite direction in the afternoon. The regularity of these winds 
throughout the year is surprising, when it is well known that no dependence can be placed in 
the land-breeze at any other point along the whole coast ; and were it not for the certainty of 
these winds the passage into this lagoon would not be practicable for sailing-vessels. The 
following December the Sarah Warren, with the schooner Nevada as tender, and the barks 
Ocean Bird and Carib, with schooners A. M. Simpson and Kate, anchored off the lagoon. The 
Kate was the first to pass the bar, and was probably the first vessel that ever sailed in those 
waters. In a few days the whole fleet, having a favorable chance, also passed the bar, and en- 
tered the unexplored waters in safety. The main branch of the lagoon is two miles wide at 
the mouth, running northerly about three miles, then turns westerly, increasing in width to 
four miles, terminating 14 to 18 miles from the bar. A small branch, making from the south 
side of the entrance, and taking a more easterly course, runs through a low country, a distance 
of 12 or 15 miles, where it reaches a high table-land. Another small estero, 15 miles farther 
south, emptying into the sea, joins the southern branch of the main lagoon. Near the head 
of this fine sheet of water are two low islands, each not over two miles long and less than one 
broad. The upper one, on its highest elevation, has a growth of green bushes, which affords 
a pleasant contrast with the surrounding country ; the southern one is quite barren. Flocks 
of gray gulls literally covered its shell beaches ; pelicans and cormorants filled the air and 
surrounding waters ; hawks were building their high nests of dry sticks ; around the shores 
huge turtle in large numbers lay sleeping, and shoals of cow-fish and porpoise played their 
undulating gambols. All gave evidence of its being unfrequented by any human being. 

The fleet of vessels that had arrived came for the purpose of whaling. About the 1st of 
January the whales (California grays) came in in large numbers, and the whaling commenced 
with the most flattering prospects. Soon after, several large vessels appeared off the bar, but 
of too heavy a draught to warrant them getting in safely. However, one captain, who did not 
fancy looking on to see others " filling their ships," decided to take the chances. The ship 
was lightened, and every precaution taken to prevent accident, but when the attempt was 
made to get over the bar the vessel grounded, and remained for several days thumping at high 
tide, and changing from side to side of the narrow passage, getting a little farther in occa- 



126 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND* 

sionally ; finally a high tide and strong sea-breeze took her inside, and the good old ship wais 
once more afloat, but with rudder-pintles gone and the ship so strained as to leak badly. At 
all events the ship was in, and the captain declared he would make the most of the whaling, 
and made every effort to carry his resolve into effect. This addition to the fleet already ar- 
rived, and another ship outside, which " mated " (as it is termed) with the one last arrived, 
swelled the number to five large vessels with three tenders; in all eight vessels, manning 19 
boats. The aggregate of oil taken was 3,500 barrels. The following year 4,700 barrels were 
taken by four ships and a small shore party, making in two seasons (which may be set down 
as commencing on the 1st of January, and ending the 10th of April of each year) 8,200 barrels, 
valued at $123,000; but this limited whaling-ground very soon gave out, and the quantity of 
oil taken the succeeding seasons has been comparatively small, and the place is no longer 
regarded as valuable for that purpose. 

FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 

The face of the country, immediately in the vicinity of this inland water, on either hand is 
nearly level and extremely barren. A few stunted mesquit-trees are now and again met 
with, and a species of rush-grass grows in many places, but so scattered that no evidence of 
any thing but a sandy plain, or low marsh, is met with about the shores. To the southwest 
rises a long table-land, to the height of a thousand feet. In goiqgfrom the lagoon to the foot 
of this table-land and near to it, we passed through what might almost be termed a forest of 
the largest species of cactus, some of them reaching the height of 40 to 50 feet. On as- 
cending to the top of the table, there is nothing to be seen inland but a wild mountainous 
country, as far as the eye can reach, with here and there a green gulch or slope of limited ex- 
tent. To the northeast there appears to be a belt of comparatively level land that extends 
across the peninsula to the Gulf of California. To the northwest there is another tract of 
barren waste, running between high broken land. An old native, who appeared to have a 
knowledge of the country, stated that along this was a trail leading to the salt deposits of Ojo 
Lebre, the distance being 70 miles. The coast, from Ballenas Lagoon southward to Cape St. 
Lazarus, is of the same general character as already described. From Ballenas a low, sterile 
foreground divides the interior elevations of the peninsula from the sea, as far south as Cape 
St. Lazarus. A high promontory, latitude 24° 48' 20" N., longitude 112° 16' 2S" W., 
may be seen at sea 50 miles. Then comes the open bay of St. Maria. To the eastward a 
narrow elevation, nine miles in length, forms the west head of Magdalena Bay. The entrance 
is three miles wide. Margarita Island is a cluster of rocky peaks and slopes, extending east 
and west 36 miles ; the western end forming the eastern head of the Gulf of Magdalena, as 
termed by Sir E. Belcher, R. N., who explored the coast in 1839. The eastern point of the 
island reaches Lee Passage, a shallow outlet to Lee Bay. Then again a moderately elevated 
coast is met with, increasing in height and abruptness, till it terminates at Cape St. Lucas. 

MAGDALENA BAY AND LAGOONS. 

Magdalena Bay is probably more generally known than any other on the Lower California 
coast, and by many regarded not only as a spacious and safe harbor that might shelter the 
navies of the world, but the adjacent country toward the gulf is generally capable of produ- 
cing abundantly, if properly cultivated, and there are other tracts valuable for grazing. The fol- 
lowing is based upon information obtained from the most reliable sources and personal observa- 
tion : The bay is 40 miles long, greatest breadth 15 miles ; points making from Margarita Island 
and the mainland divide this grand sheet of water into two bays, named by the whalemen 
Weather and Lee Bays; the former being the western and larger of the two, with channel 
depths from 3 to 18 fathoms. The northwestern part of Weather Bay has a number of nar- 
row channels, two of which form a junction with the mouth of a lagoon, varying in width from 
a few hundred yards to two miles ; that follows the general trend of the coast northward, ter- 
minating near port St. Domingo, in latitude 26" N. Its extreme length cannot be less than 
20 leagues ; a narrow strip of land separates it from the sea, with three passages through it 
where whales pass in and out, but not navigable even for the smallest-class vessels. Between 
the bay and the first passage a shoal makes where the tides meet, one current running from 
the passage opposing that from the bay. This shoal is called the First Divide; a similar one 
is formed between the first and second passage, called the Second Divide. It is seldom whales 
go over these shoals ; in fact, only one instance ever has been known, and that was in order 
to escape the deadly harpoon. When viewing these shoals at lovr Avatcr, no one would im- 
agine a vessel of 200 to 300 tons could ever get over into the deep water between the divides ; 
but the whaleman, after contending with the stormy elements and drifting ice of the Arctic 
Ocean, plies his ship toward the tropics to pass the winter months, seeking his source of 
wealth in a more temperate clime, with all the determined energy and tact characteristic of 
his calling. He now finds the object of pursuit not in the fathomless blue water, but hud- 
dled together in narrow esteros, the banks on either hand lined with the evergreen mangrove. 
Frequently the hollow sound of the spouting whale is heard through the trees, and the vapor 
ascending is seen above them ; the vessel is lightened in every possible way, and by dint of 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 127 

running out anchors, heaving, hauling, grounding, and listing, the ships cross the divides, and 
the whaling is pursued as though no unusual difficulties had been overcome, or none were to be 
again contended with to reach the open sea. Whaling- vessels have ascended the lagoon 40 
miles from its mouth, and then would not be three miles from the sea-shore. Numerous 
small lagoons, with a growth of mangrove on the banks, are scattered along the northern side 
of both Weather and Lee Bays ; their entrances are usually shallow, making it frequently dif- 
ficult for boat navigation Lee Bay is about 12 miles in extent, east and west. A body of 
water makes inland from the north shore, called the "mud-hole," which was formerly the 
favorite place of resort of whales coming into the bay, and usually there were more ships in 
this bay during the whaling season than in the Weather one. An outlet to this bay runs 
along the east end of Margarita Island, but too shoal and intricate for any thing but boat nav- 
igation. A lagoon makes from near this passage to the eastward, a few miles in extent ; its 
approaches are difficult, and have only been resorted to occasionally by boats from whaling- 
vessels. Mangrove Island is low, formed of sand and mud, and in many places covered with 
a thick growth of mangrove-trees. A long, narrow, sandy point making from tbe east side of 
Weather Bay, running to the south, forming the north head of the passage between the two 
bays, has passed under a variety of names, the last being Lagoon Point. The only fresh 
water to be found about the extensive shores of the whole Magdalena Bay, or Gulf, as it may 
be termed, is found by digging in the sand, on the shore of Lagoon Point, next to Mangrove 
Island. The usual process of obtaining water is to take both heads out of a cask, then place 
it on the beach where the water is found; work the cask down through the loose sand, and 
removing that on the inside of the casks, till sufficient depth is reached for the water to ooze 
in, and convenient for bailing. The water, when first brought on board ship, had a white or 
milky appearance, but after settling for a few days and pumped off, seemed quite clear and 
drinkable. It is said water may be procured in the same way along the sandy belt that sepa- 
rates St. Maria Bay from Magdalena; but in 1846 search was made to find it, yet without 
success. Two places are marked on the late charts where fresh water is to be found on the 
west side of the main passage into the bay. Frequent search has been made along the shore 
by the officers and men who have sailed with me, but they were never fortunate enough to find 
even the smallest spring of fresh water ; and it is not possible for water, in any great quantity, 
to be visible there without being easily found. There is said to be quite good water, where 
vessels have obtained a supply, up the north lagoon, about 25 miles from Cape St. Lazarus. 

Appearance of the Countrrf around Magdalena. — On the south, the broken ridges of moun- 
tains that separate the bay from the ocean give slight indication of any thing like verdure 
about them ; to the east and west the bay is principally bounded by low, sandy belts, that 
have been before spoken of. On the north a low country spreads out a considerable distance 
inland, on some portions of which the tall cactuses seen from the waters impress one with their 
likeness to scattered trunks of forest-trees ; several small lagoons wind a short distance tow- 
ard the interior or along the shore, their banks generally covered with a thick growth of man- 
grove ; between these lagoons level land is found in some places, producing a thick growth of 
high grass, others again quite barren. Taking a general view of the surroundings of the bay, 
there is but little to induce the emigrant to settle there. The resources may be summed up 
as follows : the bay and lagoons emptying into it abound in many varieties of fish ; among the 
different species of bivalves, oysters are found in abundance that grow to the trunks of the 
mangrove-trees, where the tide-water comes to them. Clams and muscles, of several large 
kinds, are found on the flats. Game on the northern shore is plentiful. Vast numbers of 
whales formerly were found here during the winter months, and a numerous fleet annually 
came for the purpose of whaling. The bay offered them a safe harbor, and the growth of 
mangrove in the lagoons gave them a convenient and unlimited supply of wood ; but good 
water to keep at sea is hardly to be found, and it was very seldom that ships watered here. 
During the time the whaling-fleet lay here, rancheros and others from different places came 
to trade, bringing cattle, leather, raw hides, soap, cheese, figs, oranges, dates, pearls, shells, 
and, in some instances, silver particles of native manufacture, which were exchanged for ready- 
made clothing, tobacco, heavy cotton cloths, calicoes, and some few articles of cutlery. 
There being no officer of the customs in the vicinity, traders from the missions occasionally 
made their appearance with ready money and purchased. It was not unusual for the inhabit- 
ants to come 40 or .50 miles to exchange a few arrobas of fruit for necessary articles of family 
use. No exports of the scanty products of the country are made from the bay, and where 
thousands of barrels of oil were taken annually, now only a few hundred are obtained. An 
approximate calculation gives the quantity of oil taken from 1856 to 1861, 34,425 barrels ; at 
$15 per barrel, it amounts to $516,375. 

The climate, although dry, is pleasant ; the bay, as a place of shelter, is spacious and safe, 
and, to obtain a supply of wood or water, in case of great distress, might be recommended ; but 
of the latter most needful article on shipboard, I would remark that, although a supply can 
be had as before stated, still it is not so easily to be found as would appear by a glance at the 
chart, and the shifting sands v/ould soon obliterate all traces of a former watering-party should 
they have removed the cask used to form the well. 



128 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

ISLANDS OFF THE WEST COAST OP LOWER CALIFORNIA. 

The number of islands on the west coast of Lower California are 15, viz.: — Loa 
Coronados (two) ; St. Martin ; St. Geronimo ; Guadalupe ; Cedros, or Cerros ; St. Bonitas 
(three); Natividad ; St. Rouge; Asuncion; Santa Margarita; Elide; Chester's; Maria. 

Los Coronados are merely two barren rocks of trap formation, situated in latitude 32° 24' 
to 32° 26' N., and six miles from the coast line ; several smaller ones are scattered between 
the two largest; anchorage can be found on the southeast side of the most southern one, 
which is the largest, and is a mile in extent. 

St. Martin: this island lies in latitude 30° 20' N., and longitude 116° 121' W. 
it is of moderate height, and in extent 12 miles long and 2 wide, with anchorage on its 
south and southeast sides in depth of 12 to 18 fathoms. A little lagoon is found on its 
southern side (which is quite low), where the seal used to resort in large numbers ; it is quite 
barren, producing nothing approaching to vegetation, except the prickly pear, and shrubs or 
herbage that grow in a scanty soil, among broken rocks, in a dry climate. St. Geronimo is 
of moderate elevation ; like St. Martin, is long, and about the same in width, and extremely 
barren ; the sea-otter hunters called it Round Island ; its position is doubtful, some observations 
placing it 25 miles farther to the south than others ; in fact the whole coast, as laid down on 
the general coast chart in use at the present time, is much in error, from latitude 28° N. to 
the northward as far as latitude 32°. St. Geronimo affords a good shelter, on its northeast 
side, from northwesterly winds, a convenient distance from the shore. The distance from the 
mainland is three miles. A reef lies between the island and the shore, where the sea breaks 
heavily in rough weather. There is a good passage, however, between the reef and the island, 
and when the sea is smooth the thick kelp marks the shoalest places. Rocks awash, or just 
above water, form a line of breakers from the island a mile or two to the southward. Vessels 
of ordinary draught may pass between it and the main. 

Guadalupe Island is a high elevation of land running nearly north and south, in extent 
about 15 miles. There is no safe anchorage around it, the shores being bold, and its banks 
generally high and precipitous. The highest land, which is near the northern extremity, is not 
less than 3,400 feet above the sea, with a growth of pines or cedros upon it similar to Cedros 
Island. On landing, the island does not present that parched appearance as those nearer the 
coast, still vegetation is by no means abundant ; fresh water is found here, and goats in large 
numbers find sustenance among the ravines. Fur-seal and sea-elephant once made the 
shores a favorite resorting-place. Two small islets lie off its south end ; both are quite barren. 
Some persons of state are said to have been banished here from Mexico. A vessel passed 
near the island several years since, the crew of which discovered a signal, and the captain 
landed ; to his surprise, he found six or eight Mexicans, men, women and children, who im- 
plored him to take them on board, which request he granted, and landed them on the coast ; 
for this act of kindness he received the sincere thanks of the party, it being all that they 
could give, being in abject poverty, their scanty clothing having been made from goat-skins. 
The personal effects of the party consisted of the garments they stood in, a few earthen dishes, 
two or three flint-lock muskets, a rusty cavalry-sword, and a handful of cotton fabrics, much 
the worse for wear. 

Elide Island is in latitude 28° 29' N., longitude 114° 25' W., a naked rock, one mile in 
circumference. A few years ago it was covered with guano. From 1857 till the supply was 
exhausted, about 28,000 tons were shipped from this place. It is close to the coast, and the 
natives come with their produce to sell to the parties working on the island, and to the ships ly- 
ing there. The articles of trade were dried figs, oranges, and cattle, which were brought from 
the missions of St. Borja and Gertrudes, distant 36 miles. The nearest fresh water from 
Elide is seven miles to the eastward, on the mainland. Chester's Island is a mere islet, lying 
close to the north side of Point St. Eugenio, and has only been brought to notice on account 
of a guano deposit that was taken from it several years ago by an American sea-captain, 
whose name the island has since borne. 

Cedros Island bounds the west side of San Sebastian Yiscaino Bay, its south point is in 
latitude 28° 03' N., longitude 115° 25' \V. ; it is an island of mountains, nearly its whole ex- 
tent being amass of high abrupt peaks, the highest being 2,500 feet above the level of the 
sea, and may be seen in clear weather a distance of 60 miles. On near approach its sombre 
and barren appearance is any thing but inviting. Many of the southern slopes present a dark- 
red hue, interspersed with high variegated cliffs that give a little change to the otherwise dull 
scene. On landing, one is sensible of the extremely dry atmosphere prevailing ; there must 
be, however, occasionally heavy rains producing mountain torrents, which have cut their way 
through the sand and gravel bottoms that skirt the southern bases, but they are of rare occur- 
rence, those best acquainted, who have been living there or along the coast for nearly the last 
five years, have never known it to be visited liy any other than light showers, and those at 
long intervals apart. On the northeast side, about three miles from the extreme north end, a 
low, sandy point makes out ; to the south of this there is good anchorage during the prevailing 
coast-Avinds. In a gulch near by is a small stream of fresh water, and likewise in several of 
the valleys leading from the shore to the southward water may be found within a mile or two 
of the beach. At one of these places it is of excellent quality. The only practical place, 



EXPLORATION" OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 129 

xiowever, for a vessel to obtain a supply, is on the southeast side, where is found a spring 
running through rushes at the foot of a high peak close to the shore. The casks are filled 
by placing them within a few feet of the stream, and conducting the water into them by means 
of a wooden spout, on the side of which were the words, " Whoever uses this will please put 
it in its proper place, for the benefit of those who may come for water." Anchorage may be had 
off this spring within two cables of the shore in 20 fathoms water, but a much better place 
for a large vessel to lie is two miles farther south, off a low shingle beach, where it is not so 
deep, and the gusts that come down the mountain when the wind is west are not so heavy as 
at the otlier anchorage. A vessel can always find shelter from the northwest winds on the 
south side of the island, the depth varying from 6 to 20 fathoms, and these winds blow with 
the regularity of a " trade " from May to October, and the only precaution to be kept in mind 
in choosing an anchorage, is to avoid fixed kelp. From October to Ma_v, much of the time 
the winds are light and the weather delightful. Occasionally a strong norther, or a light 
soutlieaster or southwest gale blows the first part of the winter, and strong gales from the 
northwest again set in about the 1st of May. 

PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND. 

There are several species of small trees scattered about the lower portions of the island, 
as well as clusters of tall pines or cedros on the high ridges of the north end, which may have 
suggested the name cedros. Among the dwarf species is one called by the whalers " tama- 
ariiid-tree," from its bearing fruit similar in taste to the real fruit of that name. An ever- 
green is found which produces a nut, shaped largest in the middle, tapering to both ends, 
about an inch in length. If eaten to the number of six or eight, it will produce headache and 
vomiting. The most peculiar tree found is the "tay-tay" so called; it appears swelled out of 
all natural proportions, and is of a light spongy nature. When an incision is made through 
the bark, a milky gum exudes freely ; this gum, mixed with the tallow of the native goat, seems 
to have been a sovereign remedy with the former frequenters here, for cuts, burns, etc. Goats 
and deer, in small numbers, are found, that feed chiefly on the tender twigs of the tay-tay, 
and the protruding roots of the cactus. The flesh of the latter is invariably tender and fine- 
flavored, while that of the former is all seasons tough and unpalatable. The climate, or what 
they feed on, perhaps both, preveut them from being strong and active, as is their real nature 
to be. Sailors when on shore run them down, and frequently catch them in that way. 

SEALS AND SEA ELEPHANTS. 

Seals and sea-elephants once basked upon the shores of this isolated spot in vast numbers, 
and in years past its surrounding shores teemed with sealers, sea-elephant, and sea-otter 
hunters ; the remains of their rude stone-houses are still to be seen in many convenient places, 
which were once the habitations of these hardy men ; one of these houses found on the west 
side is of large dimensions, a rough measurement making it 40 feet square. The sea-elephants, 
amphibious animals, at particular seasons of the year come on shore to shed their coats, 
and bring forth their young, and in various numbers lie promiscuously along the beach, or 
up the ravines near by ; they are gregarious, and when not disturbed will congregate in " roolj- 
eries " of hundreds. None but the full-aged males have the proboscis ; some of them are truly 
enormous creatures, being from 12 to 20 feet loug, and otherwise of proportionate size with 
tlie common seal, which in form nearly resembles the same. The female is about half the 
size of the male ; before shedding their coats, both the male and female are of a yellowish 
brown, but after the old coat falls otf they become the color of the land-elephant, and con- 
tinue so for four or five months, then gradually change to the former color again. A singular 
fact connected with these animals is, th it they have never been found north of the equator, 
except on the islands and coast of California, their chief haunts being in the high southern 
latitudes. When on land they are naturally clumsy in their movements, but at times in their 
own defence exhibit more agility than one would think them capable of. On first coming to 
their favorite landings, a gently rising sandy or pebbly beach, they are very fat, the largest 
making from four to six barrels of oil, but after "shedding" they becomes so poor by the time 
they return to the water again that they would not yield more than half that quantity. The 
usual manner of taking them is for a party of men, in one or more boats, armed with clubs, 
lances, and rifles, to land in front or near the rookery while they are asleep. Then stationing 
themselves between the animals and the water, with one simultaneous rusli, with weapon in 
hand, the work of slaughter commences. What seems strange to those unacquainted, they 
all move in a body up the beach av/ay from the water, where they may be captured at plea.s- 
ure. Now and then some overgrown male, that may have escaped from some former attack, 
will stand his ground ; a ball from a rifle through his brain dispatches him at once, and all 
rush on again to share the sport together. The quantity of blood in the elephant is surpris- 
ing ; it is supposed to be fully double in proportion to that of a bullock. They are taken 
for their oil, which is of good quality, and next to sperm for lubricating purposes. 

THE SEA-LION AND SEAL. 

The sea-lion, also amphibious, is nothing more thin the full-grown male hair-seal, its length 
being eight or nine feet, otherwise of proportionate size compared with the sea-elephant. The 



130 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

female is called a " clap-match ;" the " flippers " of the lion, which take the place of legs, are 
longer, and the animal on land or in water is more active, than the elephant Those found on the 
coast of California are of a dark-brown color, and are destitute of the mane which this 
species have that inhabit a high southern latitude. The food of the seal is principally fish, 
but occasionally birds ; this is the case with the lion particularly. The manner in which they 
decoy and catch the white and gray gulls exhibits a high order of instinct ; M'hen in pursuit of 
these birds the seal dives deep under water, swims a short distance from where it disappeared, 
then rises slowly again, just showing the tip of its nose above the surface, giving it a rotary 
motion, as often we see a kind of water-bug at play. The unwary bird on the wing seeing 
the object alights near by to catch it ; at that moment the animal again settles, and, at one 
bound, with extended jaws, seizes its prey. 

The fur-seal in form and habit is much like the hair species, except that they delight in play- 
ing through the heavy surf on a rocky shore ; they are covered with a fine fur, which makes 
their skins valuable. The full-grown males are called " wigs," the females and pups have tlie 
same name as the hair-seals ; all of them are taken for their skins and oil, and in tlic same way as 
the sea-elephant, unless they are found on narrow beaches, or detached rocks ; in such places 
they are shot with a rifle. But those innumerable herds of sea-elephants have long since 
been nearly exterminated, and here seals likewise are found only in comparatively small 
numbers. 

ACCOUNT OF TWO MEN LIVING ON THE ISLAND. 

»« 

Although extremely barren, man may live on the productions here found, as will appear 
from, the following : In 1856 two men were left on San Bonito Island, by the American 
sloop Ino, to take seals, while the others on board went to another point on the coast for the 
same purpose, intending in due time to return, but the Ino never came. As a last resort the 
two adventurers crossed over in a small boat to Cedros ; here they passed three months, living 
principally on the flesh of the deer, which they hunted in the mountains ; their names were 
Francis Miller and J. N. Whitney. These men were inured to hardship and rough living, 
but they came to the firm conclusion that bread was the staff of life, although they consumed 
incredible quantities of deer-meat and fish. Still, to use their own expression, they " always 
felt hungry." 

It is said, by those having had experience in searching* for minerals, that indications of 
extensive deposits are found scattered over the island, gold and copper predominating. 
Whether any valuable mines do exist remains to be proved. 

SAN BONITO ISLANDS. 

The San Bonito Islands are three in number ; two of them are moderately high, the middle 
one quite low, latitude 28° 3', longitude 115° 45'. They lie 15 miles west from Cedos; they are 
separated from each other by narrow passages, where boats may pass through in safety, but 
not practicable for large vessels. The whole length of the three islands is not over 10 miles. 
The western one is largest, being about five miles in extent ; the other two about half the size. 
All three are very barren, affordingneither wood nor water ; seal and sea-elephant arc the only 
animals found on them, of these there were formerly large numbers. In 1853 there were 
found on the south side of the largest of the group the remains of a Japanese junk ; whether 
it was some part of one said to have been cast away on the coast of Oregon several years 
ago, or the remains of some other Asiatic craft, is a matter of conjecture. That it was one 
or the other there is but little doubt ; the planks were fastened together on the edges, with 
spikes or bolts of a flat shape, with the head all on one side. The seams were not straight, 
although the workmanship otherwise was good ; it appeared to be the bottom of a vessel, 
and gave evidence of having been a long time on shore. Anchorage may be had on the 
southeast side of the middle island in from 10 to 20 fathoms, but the bottom is quite rocky 
and poor holding-ground. 

NATIVIDAD ISLAND. 

Between Cedros Island and the coast lies the island of Natividad, which rises VOO feet 
above the level of the sea ; its length is five miles, and not more than one mile wide, perfectly 
barren, the breeding-place of large numbers of sea-fowl and seal. From an islet of the west 
end (Maria Island) several small cargoes of guano have been taken ; it was at this place a 
lew years ago that several American ships lett in a great hurry, their masters supposing they 
had been warned off by true Mexican authority. 

St. Roque Island is in latitude 27° N., and less than two miles from the coast ; it is a low 
rock, nearly covered with coarse gravel and light sand, intermixed with bird-lime. The whole 
extent of the island is not over five square miles ; its shores are the herding-places of seals 
and once a favorite resort of the sea-elephant ; large numbers of the small sea-fowl called 
"mutton-birds" burrow in the sandy covering of the island, where they hatch their young. 
Good shelter can be found for a small vessel between the island and the main, which is occa- 
sionally made use of by sealers. 

Asuncion Island is of the same description as St. Roque, except being a little higher ; it 
is in latitude 26° 50' N., longitude 114° W., and affords a good anchorage on its southeastern 
side in 12 to 15 fathoms water, well sheltered from the prevaihug northwest winds. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 131 

SANTA MARGARITA ISLAND, 

As mentioned before, is liigh, broken, and extremely barren. Vague reports have frequently 
been circulated about veins of coal, copper, and gold, hidden in its mountains. We have 
never known of any real discovery being made of the precious metals, or deposits of coal. 
Two ships' companies once carried On gold-mining (as they supposed) for a few weeks pretty 
extensively, and large quantities of the virgin metal were taken on board, but, much to the 
disgust of all concerned, it proved to be nothing but iron pyrites. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

The whole extent of the west coast is quite barren, and its approaches bold, except at such 
points as liave been before spoken of in this report. San Bartolom6 and Magdalena Bays are 
both excellent harbors, and their entrances free from all hidden dangers ; the latter has an 
extent of navigable lagoons connected with it of over 100 miles. There are many places 
where anchorage may be found, and roadsteads where a ship may lie and find some shelter 
from the prevailing coast-winds ; also, islets that have not been made mention of, — in fact, 
there is but little extent of coast Avhere anchorage cannot be had in case of necessity. The 
climate is a pleasant one ; the principal sources of wealth have been its whale and seal fish- 
eries, guano, and salt ; of the latter there is comparatively an unbounded supply. Of guano 
there arc now no deposits known worthy of notice. The whale and seal fisheries have from 
the beginning been monopolized by American vessels ; a few French, English, and other for- 
eign flags might be seen along the coast, among the many ships that wore the stars and 
stripes. All combined have nearly exhausted this branch of commerce, so that where once 
the waters were alive with different varieties of marine animals that gave adventurous em- 
ployment to the hardy mariner, and wealth to the merchant, now only are seen a few strag- 
glers making their periodical migrations. The sea-beaches of island and coast, once theherd- 
ing-places of these amphibious animals, whose peltries were highly prized among the en- 
lightened classes of both Europe and America, are now deserted ; except at the most inac- 
cessible points, there are but few found, and their wild and watchful habits plainly tell that 
the species is nearly annihilated. Of the four sources of wealth before mentioned, salt seems 
to be the only one that has not been to a great extent exhausted. 

The interior of the peninsula must be much more productive, to sustain the numerous herds 
of cattle, and varied animal life, that range through the hills and valleys, from Cape San 
Lucas to San Diego. 

C. M. SCAMMON. 



132 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 



JOURNAL OF THE EXPEDITION OF MR. J. D. HAWKS AND 
PARTY, THROUGH THE INTERIOR OF THE PENINSULA OF 
LOWER CALIFORNIA, FROM SAN DOMINGO TO SAN DIEGO. 

On the 21st day of April, 1849, the New Grenadian schooner San Juan, 23 tons, having 
23 persons on board, sailed from the port of Panama, bound for San Francisco. In 49 days 
she made the harbor of Acapulco, and sailed from there on the 21st of June. On the 10th 
day of August she came to anchor at Point San Domingo, Lower California. At this place a 
spring of water was found near the shore, and the schooner w^s supplied with about 300 gal- 
lons, which was taken off in India-rubber bags through the surf. A party of six of the pas- 
sengers was made up, consisting of the following persons : J. D. Hawks, Daniel T. Hulett, George 
H. Davis, John C. Gilsey, Henry M. Smith, and J. J. Ellis, to proceed by land to San Diego. 
Having purchased a horse of some Spaniards who were travelling south, we packed such ar- 
ticles as we could conveniently upon him, but each of the men was obliged to make a pack 
for himself to carry. Bidding our companions farewell, we started at about two o'clock 
p. M., on the 11th of August, taking the road which was made by the Jesuits some 200 years 
since. We travelled about nine miles, and encamped at dark near the foot of a mountain, 
very much fatigued. Throwing ourselves upon the ground, we were soon asleep. We had 
failed to provide ourselves with a sufficient quantity of water. 

August \Wi. — Started at four o'clock, by moonlight. The road was so blind that we were 
obliged till daylight to feel our way with our hands. We travelled about six miles, and were 
overjoyed at finding water. This was in one of the river-beds, and in the rainy season must 
be quite a considerable stream, but now it was nearly dried up, and the water was only found 
in pools, and very warm. We caught a few fish in one of the largest of the holes, and having 
cooked and eaten them, we started at 4 p. m. on our journey. We travelled about six miles, 
and encamped for the night on an extensive plain. The feet of some of the men are getting 
very sore. The earth is purched up ; there are no signs of vegetation, except the cactus, a 
few shrubs, and sage. Every plant and shrub is guarded with thorns, and as we pass along 
they will penetrate our flesh, and we frequently pull them out, and find they have been im- 
bedded for half an inch. 

August 13</t. — Started at four in the morning, and travelled about two miles, when we 
came to water, which was in a small valley. This water was only in small quantities, but we 
found some under the shade of a large rock, that was quite cool and i-efreshing. In this val- 
ley we found immense quantities of the cactus — some of the species known as Cereus ; 
being eighteen inches in diameter and from 20 to 30 feet in height. Here we met a Spaniard, 
who gave us some grapes and figs, which were very grateful. We filled our pouches and bot- 
tles with water, and again started for the rancho San Jose de Grace, which the Spaniard told 
us was three leagues distant. The sun was intensely hot, and in passing through some of 
the ravines among the mountains there was not a breath of air. In about eight miles' travel 
we came again to water, where we halted, washed, and were greatly refreshed. Started again, 
and were soon in sight of the rancho, which consists of some five or six houses. This valley is 
very small, and is entirely surrounded by high mountains. It cannot be more than two or 
two and a half miles across it in its greatest extent, and not more than a half or three-quar- 
ters of a mile wide. The soil is very fine, and we found all kinds of tropical fruits, such as 
figs, grapes, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, and lemons ; likewise tobacco, cotton, corn, 
wheat, with melons, etc. There is a fine stream of water, that is used for irrigation. The 
people were at first quite suspicious of us, not knowing whether we were friends or enemies, 
as they had not heard of the cessation of hostilities and the treaty between Mexico and the 
United States. We soon gave them to understand that they need be under no apprehension 
in regard to us, and we had their confidence. We learn that Don Jose, the owner of the 
rancho, will be at home to-morrow ; that he has several mules with him, and we shall wait, 
and engage him to take us for a short distance on our way. We spread our blankets in a 
small storehouse, and were soon asleep. 

August I4:th. — While partaking of a dish of ortola, with some grapes, for our breakfast, 
we espied Don Jose coming down the mountain. As soon as he arrived we engaged him to 
take us to the ranch of Seiior Ramon Argular, some nine leagues distant. At this place we 
learned that two Americans had but a few days before passed by, who had left a vessel by 
means of a raft which had gone to pieces in the surf, and they were unable to regain the 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 133 

Echooner. From the description given, we are under tbe impression that they are from the 
schooner Jose Cascaras, which tvas built by some Americans at the port of La Union. These 
men had been wrecked on the steamer Galveston, in the bay of Honduras, crossed the country, 
and at La Union had built this schooner of 13 tons, and put to sea in her. 

Augnsl \blh. — At three o'clock in the morning we were ready for a start, and, having taken 
leave of our kind friends, with Jose for our guide, we commenced the ascent of the mount.iin. 
In about one hour we had reached the top. Here we came upon an extensive plain which we 
were to cross, and at eight o'clock we halted 15 miles on our way. We found water in a deep 
ravine, into which we descended by a very rocky and precipitous road ; in some places it was 
so steep that it was fearful to ride over. This is one of the wildest places imaginable. On 
the opposite side of the ravine there is a perpendicular wall of rock from four to six hundred 
feet in height, and the whole place is covered with immense boulders of stone. 

We remained in the ravine until one o'clock p. m., when we started, and, passing over a 
very dry and inhospitable country, we reached the rancho Patroeruna, where we found Senor 
Ramon Argular. An hour before reaching the ranch we were drenched to the skin by a 
heavy shower of rain. 

At this place our horse which we purchased of the Spaniard before starting gave out, and 
we sold him to Seiior Argular for .$6. We expected to be able to obtain at this place a supply 
of horses and mules, but are disappointed, and we have made an arrangement with our faith- 
ful guide, Don Jose, to go on with us to the mission of San Ignacio, which is two days' travel 
from here. The loss of our horse reduced us now to the necessity of taking one of the mules for 
our baggage, and as the feet of two of the party are too sore to admit of their walking, the 
balance of the party are obliged to perform nearly the whole of the distance on foot. After 
a supper of boiled beans, we were conducted to one of the out-houses, which we were to 
occupy for the night. 

Here we saw Joseph Adams, of Baltimore, one of the two Americans who had passed the 
ranch of San Jose de Grace, and he gave us a history of their trials. From his account it appears 
that when the schooner Jose Cascaras was in about latitude 25° 30' north, thsy were on short 
allowance of water. Four of the passengers left the schooner in the only boat ; they had to land 
through the surf, intending to proceed by land ; they were taken off by the steward of the 
schooner, who was to have returned to the vessel with the boat. The schooner waited nearly 
a day for his return, but as he did not appear they supposed that he had gone on with the 
others, and left them without a boat. They then set sail and went above latitude 26 , where 
they made a raft of some barrels, and Dr. Phillips, of Mississippi, and Joseph Adams, volun- 
teered to land on it through the surf in search of water. The i-aft went to pieces in the 
breakers, and they were not able to regain the schooner, and were left on this desolate coast 
without food or clothing. They were supplied for two days by Cajjtain Hamilton of the 
schooner with food, which was sent to them in a barrel, which was taken ashore by the tide 
and secured by them. At the end of this time the captain sent them a note stating that the 
water on the schooner was exhausted, and directing them to proceed to the bay of San Bar- 
tolome, and that he would put in there for them. They wandered on to the northwest, and 
just at night struck the road, and in two days they arrived at San Jose de Grace. Dr. 
Phillips has gone on, and Mr. Adams intends to go from this to San Rosalie on the Gulf of 
California to try and get a passage to Mazatlan. Dr. Phillips was in the steamer Galveston 
when she was wrecked in the bay of Hondurus. 

August \Q>th. — Started this morning at 5 o'clock, and went about five leagues, when we came 
to water, and remained until afternoon, as the heat is too oppressive to travel in the middle 
of the day. At 2 o'clock we started and passed over a very rough country. There is a suc- 
cession of plains and steep mountains. The ground for the entire distance is covered with 
immense quantities of stones, as though they had been emptied from carts and spread around, 
we passed to-day large tracts that appeared to have been grouted with lime and sand, and 
the crevices of the rocks were filled as though done by masonry. Passing over one of the 
mountains, we came in sight of the Pacific Ocean. We suppose we are in latitude 27" 30.' 
We encamped at 5 o'clock on the banks of one of the dry rivers ; there was but little water, 
and we found it only in holes. It was very good, however. We spread our blankets under 
a mesquit-tree for the night. 

August nth. — Started at 3.45 a. m. It was quite dark, and our road very blind ; for an 
hour or more we were obliged to pick our way over immense stones, and through brush and 
cactus ; this was the most fatiguing and worst place we have yet seen. The road in some 
places is well defined, and has been made by throwing the stones on each side, so that for 
miles they are piled up like winrows, and in other places the track is entirely obliterated, the 
road having been washed out. We saw to-day some cochineal or a bug similar to it. At 7^ 
P. M. we arrived at the rancho of San Joachin, which is about five leagues from where we 
encamped last night. This is one of the old missions gone now entirely to ruin. It consists 
of two stone buildings, or rather parts of the walls. There is some fruit here, such as figs, 
grapes, pomegranates, etc. A little jerk-beef with some grapes was all we could get to eat. 
This place is occupied by an aged Americ;in, named Noah Hall, who has been in the country 
some thirty-five years. Mr. Hall landed at the bay of San Bartolome or Ftu-th Bay, from 
a whaie-ship that put in there. We learned from Mr. Hall that some time since a Peruvian 



134 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

brig was abandoned near this on the coast, and most of the passengers and crew are sup- 
posed to have perished ; only two are known to have survived, and they were fifteen days 
without water. The mate, who was ati American, with one of the crew, was saved, having 
been found by a party going from San Rosalie to some other ports on the gulf. They 
had been wandering for 62 days ; the vessel was at anchor when abandoned, and is sup- 
posed to have gone to pieces. The body of the captain, with his papers, was found some 
time afterward. 

We left San Joachin at 2.45 p. m., and proceeded over a very good road, some three leagues, 
to the mission of San Ignacio. Here we overtook four of the passengers from the San Juan, 
who had left two days before us. They had taken up their quarters in a large room attached 
to the church, and we joined them there. 

August 18th. — The church buildings of San Ignacio are in a very good state of repair, and 
we find the padre who has charge of the mission a very excellent man. He has been con- 
stant in his attentions to us, and has assisted us materially in making our purchases of 
animals, etc. He invited us into his library, where we found a fine collection of books, maps, 
etc. We found here a map of Mexico, including Lower California, from which we have made 
notes for our future guidance. The padre has kindly offered to send letters for us through 
Mexico, and I shall avail myself of his offer and write home. He has also given me a letter 
to the padre of San Tomas, and I think this may be of service to us as we journey through 
the country. .^ 

Besides the church buildings, the town is composed of a few miserable huts. The whole 
country appears to be under the proprietorsliip of a portly old Castilian, named Don Buen- 
tura, or Buenaventura. He owns all the cattle and horses, and we are endeavoring to make 
some purchases from him. We were obliged to-day to bring him to terms. One of our party 
had a quantity of jewelry, consisting of rings, chains, etc., and as we were trading, a Spaniard 
very coolly put a ring on his finger, and went off with it against the remonstrances of the owner. 
He appealed to Buontura to have him stop the man, but he affected indifference, and allowed 
the fellow to mount a horse and ride off with it. We at once determined that it would not 
answer to allow the matter to rest in this manner, and the whole party of six, armed with a 
rifle and pistols, went immediately to the house of Buentura. As he saw this formidable 
armi^ approaching, he surrendered, coming forward and asking the value of the ring. I 
answered $10, and he said that he would settle it, and we marched back to our quarters. In 
about half an hour he came in and handed us the amount, and we had very little trouble in 
trading with him after this. He sent out for some horses, and sold us some saddles, and 
assisted us in various ways. 

Sunda>/, Auf/nat I9t/i. — Not much attention is paid to Sunday here. The church was 
open for mass in the morning, with an afternoon service, with a sermon. We were invited 
by Don Luis Argular to visit his casa, which is about a mile from the church, and at the 
upper end of the valley. We found his house delightfully situated, surrounded by date and 
fig trees, with a fine vineyard and melon-patch. The grapes were the finest we have seen. 
After spending a couple of hours with Don Argular and his agreeable wife, we returned to 
our quarters. 

Mo7idaif, Auynst 20t7i. — The day has been spent in getting our animals for the journey 
before us. We have four horses and one mule. We find it difficult to obtain saddles, but 
we have secured two very good ones and one pack-saddle, and hope that we shall be ready 
to start to-morrow. 

It rains every afternoon at this season, and the rain is accompanied by high winds and 
severe thunder and lightning. We fear that these storms may annoy us on our journey, as 
the streams rise so suddenly in the mountains that it will make the travelling dangerous. 
The padre invited us to dine at one of the houses, and sent his own plate for the table. 

At a little distance in front of the church there is a large octagonal reservoir built of stone, 
with a stream of water runnmg through it. The masonry is very good. 

Tuesdai/, August 2\st. — The entire day has been spent in completing our arrangements. 
The rain this afternoon was not as severe as yesterday. 

Wednesday, August 22d. — We started this morning, after getting all the information we 
could in regard to the country through which we were to travel. The road for a short dis- 
tance was very good, but we soon came to the mountains. The roads over these mountains 
defy any description. The defiles and passes in some places are perfectly awful ; we were 
obliged to unpack our mule in several places, and carry the articles up for some distance, 
as it was impossible for him to get through with his pack on. We have had a hard day's 
work, and our animals have had nothing to eat, as we were told before starting that we 
should reach the rancho of San Martin after about seven leagues' travel. We fear we have 
missed our way ; we have passed over the roughest road to-day that we have yet seen. The 
mountains are piled up on the top of each other. They are terrific. Selecting a place where 
we would be partially protected by an overhanging cliff, we unpacked our animals, and, 
making them fast, laid down for the night. It was dark before we were ready to spread 
our blankets. 

Thursday, August 23c?. — This morning we fed our horses for a short time on some mes- 
quit, which we found growing here. One of the party went forward, and soon returned with 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 135 

the intelligence, that the rancho of San Martin was about one mile farther on, and we at once 
started for it. This ranch consists of a miserable hut, made by driving some poles into the 
ground, and covering them with boughs. It is quite an extensive but unproductive valley, and 
all that could be obtained here was a little milk and cheese, and the fruit of the cactus. We 
endeavored to procure the services of one of the two men we found here as guide, but as he 
had no horse he would not go. We rested here a short time, and at 11 o'clock we started, 
the old man at the ranch acting as guide out of the valley. We travelled for two hours and 
came to water, and very good feed for our horses. We let them eat for an hour, and then 
went on till five o'clock, Avhere we encamped for the night ; one of our horses has given out. 
Just before night we met a man and woman who represent the next water to be about 12 
leagues ahead. They were very thirsty, having no water with them. Our encampment is on the 
Rosaletta; the mosquitoes and ants were very troublesome during the night. We have seen 
several hares and a few rattlesnakes to-day. 

Friday, Augml '2,-i.th. — Arose at half-past three and went back one and half miles to water 
our animals and let them feed. We also washed our clothing and made ready for the day ; 
drove very hard. The day was sultry, and we suffered much for want of water, having but 
little with us, and with the prospect of passing the night without any. At about 1 o'clock 
one horse gave out again, and we were obliged to abandon him. Smith went forward with 
the mule, and found water at about two o'clock in some holes ; he halted until the rest of the 
party came up, and we concluded to encamp for the night. The road to-day has been over 
plains and along the beds of the dry rivers; we found the water as we were just entering the 
mountain-passes. We met three men and two boys ; they are one month from San Diego. 
We suppose that we have travelled about six leagues to-day. The country presents the same 
barren, unfruitful, and forbidding appearance, as that we have passed through. The cactus 
and a few thorny shrubs, except on the margin of the dry river, where the mesquits and a 
species of willow are sometimes found, are all that is to be seen. 

Saturday, August ^AMh. — Started at about five o'clock, as soon as we could see the road ; 
it ran along for some distance, following the bed of one of the dry rivers, when we again 
struck the mountains, and have crossed some very high points. We passed to-day large 
beds of copper-ore in the form of an epidote ; the sides of the mountains are covered with it, 
it also shows defined veins. It can never be of any avail, as it is among almost impassable 
mountains, with no fuel or water near. At nine o'clock we halted at the San Juan, which is 
merely an indentation, without much grass or water. We met this morning three men and two 
women going south, 35 days from San Diego ; from them we learn that it is about six or eight 
leagues to Santa Gertrudes. 

After leaving the San Juan we were in great doubt as to our course, but after making a 
careful examination of the track we decided which path to take. The road here passes over 
the steepest and highest mountain that we have yet crossed. Some of the way up it was 
almost perpendicular, and we were obliged to crawl on our hands and feet. It was a very 
great task to get our animals over, and could only do it by taking one at a time, one to lead 
and another to drive them. We were fully two hours in getting to the top. From this 
mountain the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean were distinctly visible, and seemed to 
be at our very feet, and we could see all the islands and indentations along the coasts. As it 
was nearly dark when we reached the summit, and we were obliged to pass the night there 
we suffered very much from cold during the night. In looking about we found a little 
water in some holes in the rocks, and but for this fortunate circumstance wo should have 
been obliged to go all night without water. There is no grass for our animals, and they 
begin to show signs of giving out. We found a few prickly pears. 

Sunday, August 26</i. — Left our encampment in the mountains, down through ravines fol- 
lowing the water-courses, which are now dry, crossing over some very high places ; at times 
the road was almost obliterated, and it was with great difficulty that we could make it out. 
We are fearful that we may not be on the right road, as it makes too much to the west to 
suit us, but we have learned that, in a country like this, which for the whole length of the 
peninsula is little better than a barren desert, we cannot depend upon the compass, but 
that the road has been made as passes could be found through the mountains, and also to 
connect, as much as it is possible to do so, the few and small valleys that are found. There is 
no doubt but the traveller through this country by the road we have taken passes the best 
portion of it; and if we have seen the best, what can the balance be? At 10 o'clock we 
reached the mission of Santa Gertrudes, the whole party, both man and beast, in almost a 
famished condition, as we had been without food for nearly two days. The people at one of 
the houses had just made an " ortola," a kind of pudding, for themselves, but seeing our con- 
dition they brought it to us, and I believe there was but one opinion in the party in reo'ard 
to the quality of the dish. 

There is an old church building in which two or three families appear to live. A cross is 
erected in the centre of the plaza ; on one side is a wall or piece of crude masonry, in which 
are hung three bells. The church and two of the houses are built of adobe. The name of our 
host is Jose Maria. In answer to our inquiries as to whether we could procui-e any thing to 
take along on our journey, they replied that they were very poor, and could not make us any 
tortillas. We asked for meat, but they had none. During the day, having occasion to make 



136 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

use of a small box of medicine, which I had brought with me, it was seen, and the inquiry at 
once made if I was a doctor. Jose Maria had been troubled with a severe headache, and 1 
administered to him, and in a short time some tliree or four patients were brought in, who 
were prescribed for. They then said that they would make some tortillas, and soon another 
one brought us a basket of grapes. We procured a few figs for the road. We here purchased 
a mule, which we think will be of great assistance to us. The valley in which this mission is 
situated is very small. 

3Ionda!/, Augmt l^lh. — Left Santa Gertrudes at half-past seven o'clock, and travelled for 
the whole day over a very rough road ; at twelve o'clock we found a small quantity of very 
bad water in a hole in one of the rocks. At three o'clock we started again, and the road is 
worse than that in the morning, and I think it is the worst we have yet seen since we started. 
The mountains are piled on top of each other — " Alps on Alps arise." The sides of the 
mountains and the plains are covered with immense granite boulders, and in some places they are 
almost impassable. We could not ride through some of the places between the rocks with- 
out curling our feet upon our horses' necks. Passed to-day ledges of clouded marble, 
some of which appear to be very fine. Encamped for the night in the bed of a dry river, and 
found water by a sign left by Mr. Cook, who is of the party ahead of us, and who has a guide. 
We should not have found it without the notice, as it was in a hole in a deep ravine, and 
from which we were obliged to bring water in our pouches and bottles for the animals, the 
mosquitoes were very troublesome during the whole night. 5l.ade about six leagues to-day. 

2'uesda}i, August 28, 1849. — Started at five o'clock, being detained sometime in conse- 
quence of the breaking loose of one of our mules, and who strayed away in search of water. 
We soon found him, and were ready for a forward movement. The i-oad to-day has been for 
most of the time over barren plains, with two high mountains,- the crossing of one of which was 
very ditficult and tedious, and composed, like those we passed yesterday, of immense boulders 
of granite and other rocks. Encamped on a plain, without water or grass for our animals. 

Wednesday/, August 29ih. — Started this morning at four o'clock, and went about two miles, 
where we found water at the left of the road in a ravine. We were here in great doubt as to 
whether we were upon the road or not. We explored, and soon found on our course a road 
leading over a high mountain; this we took, crossed the mountain, and descended into a large 
plain, where the road appeared to assume the form of a track again. The rains had been very 
severe, and had covered the valley, but had subsided and washed away the track in many 
places. We, however, kept on our course as near as we could, which brought us to a deep 
ravine. This we followed up, and at some distance we found the path again, but it was very 
obscure. About noon we found a small patch of dry grass, and we stopped to allow our ani- 
mals to feed, as they were nearly exhausted for want of food. AVhile they were grazing, we 
made explorations, both up and down the ravine, to see if we could find the road. We found 
where fires h.id been made, but little else, as evidence that the country had ever been visited 
by man. Started agam, but, as we were in great doubt in regard to the road, we came to the 
determination to retrace our steps to the valley and try and find the road again from the foot 
of the mountain. When we arrived in the valley we unpacked our mules and horses, and 
myself and Smith went north across to see if any road passed it. It was very tiresome, as the 
walking was rough. No road could be found, and we returned. Hulett and Davis took 
horses and went back to the foot of the mountain, but could find no trace of the road. It 
was dark before the party returned, and we encamped for the night. 

Thurndat/, August SOth. — Started at five o'clock, and retraced our steps for the river-bed 
we went up yesterday. As we could find no other track, we went on till eleven o'clock, some 
of the party going ahead to explore the country. We can find no signs of any habitations, 
but we can see occasionally the path making up the valley. We halted, and some of the 
party again went off to see if any signs could be found. We are now in a very bad condition, 
as we are in great doubt as to our course ; in fact, we do not know where to go. We are 
considering the expediency of sending back to Santa Gertrudes for a guide. Davis is explor- 
ing" a rawne below this, and we are somewhat apprehensive that he has missed his Wiiy. It is 
the worst place I ever was in to find one's way. A person could be within 20 rods of our 
stopping-place and search all day for it without finding it. We shall soon determine on what 
course to pursue, as our case requires prompt action. Four o'clock. — We are all in camp 
and have determined to remain here to-morrow, and Smith and Davis are to go ahead up the 
valley, and explore the country around, before we send back for a guide, as that would de- 
tain us six days or more. We have seen a few quail to-day, and hope that we may be able to 
get some to-morrow. 

Friday, August Z\st. — Smith and Davis started early this morning up the valley. Hulett 
and mvself go down to see if there is any ravine where the road might pass over the moun- 
tain ; also to kill some quail, if possible'. Gilsey and Ellis are in camp to take care of the 
animals, etc. 4 p. m. — Smith and Davis have just returned, and report a road ahead, bearing 
N. W. by W., which is our course. We have resolved to push oti in the morning. They have 
had a hard walk and have returned nearly exhausted, but we all feel better under the prospect 
of getting ahead again, although we have but little to cat, having but one fig and about an oimce 
of jerked beef each for our supper ; this morning we had about the same allowance. Hulett 
and myself found some green nuts looking like hazel-nuts. We ate some of them, and were 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 13Y 

soon taken sick. We both had an attack of cholera morbus. We also killed two young par- 
tridges and two pigeons. We have been delayed two days by not being able to find the road. 
It is a piece of great presumption for any one to attempt to travel through such a sterile, un- 
productive, and mountainous country as this, without being well provided with such pro- 
visions as can be carried along, and without a guide ; and, in case he is able to supply him- 
self with provisions for the trip, he cannot take fodder for his animals, and they are sure to 
give out. 

Saturday, September \sf. — Started at five o'clock, and after a laborious march, for our ani- 
mals were too weak to ride, we reached the base of the mountain, and foand the road as 
reported by Davis and Smith. There is no doubt but it is the old mission road. We found 
water in a natural cistern in the rocks. The road is now over difficult mountains ; then a 
dry, sterile plain ; and again the mountains. We have been almost entirely without food for 
three days, excepting the four small birds which we killed. I can scarcely imagine that there 
can be a worse country than this to travel through, with nothing to subsist on except the 
fruit of the cactus, and a few figs which we find at the missions, with little or no grass for cat- 
tle. Went on until nearly dark, when we came to a small valley in which we found good 
water, but little food for our animals. Ellis and Gilsey, who had pushed on to try and reach 
the mission, and, if possihile, to send us relief, have not returned. We find an old corral 
here. Our party is somewhat separated. Smith and myself having travelled faster than the 
others, we found ourselves at the foot of the mountain at dark; while Davis and Hulett were 
still on the way down when night overtook them, and as it was impossible for them to travel 
after dark, they were obliged to remain on the mountain. We spread our blankets under a 
mesquit-tree and here passed the night, which was quite cold. Just before dark, as I was 
riding along, a young pigeon settled down in the road a few feet ahead of me ; I alighted and 
threw my hat over and caught it. We dressed it and made our supper from it. 

Sunday, September 2d. — As Davis and Hulett came down from the mountain, we were 
ready for a start, and proceeded down the valley. We soon came into a succession of valleys 
and mountains, and through a singular defile, which is very narrow, the rocks on each side ris- 
ing nearly, and in some places quite, perpendicular for three to five hundred feet ; and as we 
pass one point we think we shall soon get out into an open plain, but we find another and 
still another point to pass. We came to an open plain perfectly sterile, where we rested for 
two hours, without food or water for ourselves or animals. At two o'clock we started again, 
and pursued our way over plains and mountains. Some of the mountains were of the descrip- 
tion of those we passed a few days since, being composed of immense boulders ; they are very 
rough and difficult to cross. We are encouraged to-day by the appearance of fresh tracks in 
the road, and we know that there is a party ahead of us. 

Just before night we were overjoyed at the sight of a stone cross which was standing on 
the brow of a hill overlooking the valley, and in a few moments more we were at the church 
of the mission of San Borja. Worn out with fatigue, and faint for want of food, wo asked 
for something to eat, and were told that a little green corn, some figs, and pomegranates, were all 
they had. Just at dark, however, we had a small dish of ortola, which revived us a little ; Ave 
also went out and picked some corn and boiled it. We were directed to take possession of a 
part of the old church building, which we did. This mission must have been quite extensive 
in its day. The church buildings were surrounded with a high adobe wall, but it is entirely 
thrown down now. 

There are no grapes raised here, but there are a few vines, and the grounds show that in 
former years they were cultivated. The figs are good. The place is occupied by a few indo- 
lent, miserable Indians. It was with great difficulty that we could induce them to spare us 
corn enough to subsist on while there. We were obliged to go and pick the corn, which we 
carried to their house, counted the ears, and paid them for it. A striped shirt, or a bright 
handkerchief, pleased them better than money. This valley is small, like all the valleys that 
we have passed, and never can be made available, on account of the impossibility of ever 
making a road to connect them with each other and with the rest of the world. No road can 
ever be made that can be traversed, except by mules, and but few of these get through alive, 
as all there is for them to subsist on for a great part of the distance is a httle dry grass — and 
this not often found — the mesquit, and a few thorny shrubs and thistles. 

Monday, September 3d. — This day has been spent in making preparations for our journey. 
Exchanged an old mule for a horse. Traded a gun for a very fine young mule, and purchased 
another horse. We have now six horses and two mules. The mule we purchased at Santa 
Gertrudes gave out entirely. We procured a few figs and a little green corn, which is all we 
have to take us to El Rosario, fourteen days distant, to which place we have obtained a guide 
to go with us. From San Borja to El Rosario there are two roads ; the one known as the 
mountain-road, and which is a continuation of the one we have been travelling over, and the 
coast-road. We have concluded to take the latter. 

Tuesday, September Ath. — Left San Borja at seven o'clock with our guide, and travelled 
for three leagues over a dry, sandy plain to a place where, by digging in the sand, we pro- 
cured a little water. We rested for two hours, and went on again till six o'clock, when we 
encamped under some m?squit-trees, but without water. We cut some boughs from the 
trees for our animals to browse on ; there was no grass for them. Made about 25 miles to-day. 



138 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

Wednesdaj/, September 5th. — Rose at four o'clock, and were under way as soon as it was 
light enough to sec the path. Our road to-day has been very good, mostly over sandy and 
gravel plains. We halted, at 11 o'clock, at a small salt-marsh, where we could pick up 
crystals of beautiful salt, and our shoes and clothing were incrusted with it. There is a fresh- 
water stream that makes through or rises in the valley or marsh. The water is good, has a 
slight smell of sulphur, but is cool and clear, with but a little brackish taste. This is called 
San Andre?, and was once occupied by an American named* Gilbert, but who has abandoned 
it. We left the marsh at one o'clock, and went on over a sandy road without a sign of vege- 
tation. One horse gave out, and we were obliged to abandon him. We encamped at 5^ o'clock, 
near some brackish water which we procured by digging. This is called Santa Catalina. — 25 
miles. 

Thursday., Septonber Gth. — Left at four o'clock, and had a good road. We struck the 
beach this forenoon and travelled lor two miles along on the sand ; picked up a few clams. 
We dug for water in a little swale, where we found it, but it was quite salt. We went out into 
the surf to some rocks, and procured a few muscles, which we roasted, and also found some 
abalones, which we cooked. We were obliged to abandon one of our mules. We travelled 
about three hours and came to some dry grass where we rested for the night. This place is 
called San Nicolas. 

Friday, September ^Ih. — Started at one o'clock this morning, travelling by moonlight over 
a very good road for five hours. We are obliged to move s1ow,nis our animals are greatly re- 
duced by want of food and water. At six o'clock we came to a spring of fresh water called 
Pontia el Marcha. Here we remained until nine o'clock, when Ave again started. We went 
over a sandy road, with no signs of vegetation. We halted near the beach to let the animals 
pick at the sea-weeds and dry grass. The mule which we procured at San Ignacio gave out 
in the afternoon, and we were obliged to leave the poor creature to his fate in a barren coun- 
try, with but little food and no water. This is a severe blow to us, as he has been a service- 
able animal. Davis and myself led and drove him without any pack for five hours, in hopes 
of being able to get him to some place where he could find grass and water. At night we 
found a little dry grass but no water. The road to-day has been comparatively level, over sandy 
plains, and at times on the beach. Our provisions are getting low, but we think we shall get 
through, as our guide appears to understand the country. 

Saturday, September 8th. — It is six months to-day since we left New York, in the steamer 
Falcon, at which time we expected to have reached San Francisco in 45 days. We started 
this morning at five o'clock, and travelled over an entirely barren but level country till eight 
o'clock, when we reached a well of very bitter water. Our horses drank of it, and we went 
on. This forenoon my horss gave out and fell down a ravine some 60 or 70 feet, where it was 
impossible to get him out. He was a noble creature, and I had got very much attached to him, 
and it was hard to part under such circumstances, but there was no help for it. Our 
other horses are failing, and we fear trouble in getting along. I have walked entirely for the 
two days past, leading my horse. We have now distributed our luggage among all our horses 
aTid the mule, and are all on foot ourselves ; and travelling over a level but barren country, 
vfe encamped in the bed of a dry river. We have this afternoon struck off toward El Rosario, 
leaving San Fernando on our right. Our guide, Capistan, says that he saveys the way, and 
will save a day by it. We find we have too much baggage, but we hope to get it to El Rosario, 
as we can exchange it for horses and mules. No one should ever travel through this country 
who does not start well equipped with mules, and his means should not be in money, which is 
of little consequence to the natives, but should consist of guns, clothing, medicine, trinkets, 
etc. Our guide brought us a lot of muscles which he had taken from the rocks. 

Sunday, September 9lh. — Started this morning early, and travelled over some barren hills 
and mountains covered with stones, and it was hard travelling for ourselves and horses. After 
a time we struck the beach, and at nine o'clock we halted and went out into the surf, where 
we gathered a quantity of muscles from the rocks. This morning another horse gave out ; this 
was upon the side of a mountain, which it was impossible for him to climb. We sold the 
saddle to our guide. We started again and passed on over a rolling country. Some of the 
hills are quite steep, but cannot be called mountains ; they are covered with broken stones. 
We expected to reach water at one o'clock, but were disappointed, as the place was dry. We 
went on for an hour, Avhen we came to a low place, where we dug for water and found it, but 
it was very salt. We drank it, however. It operated as a cathartic. Here we found good 
grass for our horses. We are encaiuped just bi'low Point San Francisco. 

Monday, September lOth, — This is a day which we shall all remember. On waking this 
morning and going for our animals, we found that our mule was missing, and looking tor 
our guide he was not to be found. The scoundrel had stolen the mule, and left us in a 
barren, inhospitable country, wliere we were entirely unacquainted with the roads. We 
trust in God to get along, but He only knows whether we shall get through. We are all 
in good health, although much reduced in flesh, and our misfortune does not cast us down. 
On ascertaining our loss we determined to retrace our steps to where we left the road 
for San Fernandez. We packed our best horse and put some on the other two, but they are 
reduced so low that they are not able to carry much. By seven o'clock we were ready for 
a start. We left a saddle and some clothing ; followed the tracks we made yesterday for 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. X39 

most of the day. At 10 o'clock another horse gave out, and we left him, with a saddle 
and more baggage. We strucii the beach at the place where we gathered the muscles ; 
gathered a quantity, which we roasted, and went on. At four o'clock, George Davis's horse 
gave out; left him, with another saddle. This leaves us but one horse and a pack-saddle. 
We soon after reached the place where we encamped on Saturday night. Here we ao-ain 
dug for water, and after several attempts we struck, at the foot of a willow, a fine spring 
of good fresh water without a particle of salt. This is truly a God-send to us. We en- 
camped here for the night, George Davis going back to bring up his horse, which we had 
abandoned. Spreading our blankets, we were soon asleep. 

Tuesday, September Wth. — We did not awake this morning till near five o'clock, but we at 
once prepared our packs and were soon under way, each one carrying as much as he can. 
I have a small travelling-bag with my clothing. The path is very blind, but we knew the 
general direction, and kept on. It is impossible to keep the track long, but we find our marks 
in the ravines. The hills are so much alike, and so little to distinguish one from another, that 
it would trouble one unacquainted with the country to get along. About eight o'clock we came 
to the place where we left the road on Saturday, and took it. The road here bears north and 
away from the coast. Our horse appears to stand it, and we are in hopes of getting him 
through to San Fernandez. At nine o'clock we found good water ; filling our pouches, we 
started, and travelled very slow over a heavy, rolling country — which presents the same bar- 
ren, unproductive appearance as that we have been travelling through for some time in 

about an hour we found a small patch of dry grass, where we fed our horse. Our own pro- 
visions are getting low. We cannot have more than 50 figs left. Travelled for most of the 
afternoon over a very hilly country, crossing some mountains similar in character to those we 
crossed south of San Borja, being composed of sand and sandstone. At half-past four o'clock 
we found good water and grass, and encamped for the night. We have travelled slow all day 
and have not made more than 10 miles on our course, after striking the road. The water 
here is a little bitter, which is the case with much that we find. For several nights past the 
fogs have been very heavy, wetting our blankets through. 

Wednesday, September \2th. — Filling our bottles, we commenced the day, and travelled for 
about three hours in the bed of one of the rivers. The sand was deep, and it fatigued us and 
our horse very much. Nine o'clock, our horse appears to be giving out, having fallen twice 
on a smooth road. Should he fail, we shall be obliged to abandon a considerable quantity of 
baggage. Our provisions are nearly gone, and there is no hope of getting any thing to subsist 
on. We do not find the fruits of the cactus, as we did farther south. At two o'clock our 
horse fell down and we could not get him any farther. We killed him, and from his hams 
cut portions of meat, and building a fire, cooked and ate of it. This was a hard duty, but our 
lives depended upon it. We made over our packs, throwing aside such articles as' we could 
dispense with most readily, leaving a large India-rubber bagful. Started at four p. m. and 
walked over a very rough country, and encamped among the mountains. 

Thursday, September I8th. — Started at daylight, travelling along the bed of one of the dry 
rivers of which the country is full, and which, on account of the deep sand, we find very hard 
walking. Found water this morning. This is much better than any we have found for 
several days past, as most of it has been very bad. We have crossed some high hills to-day. 
The weather is very warm, and in passing through some of the ravines it is almost sufibcatino-. 
We are not able to carry much water, and each man's allowance is poured out for him. We 
have suffered greatly for want of water, and our horseflesh has nearly given out. Our packs 
are heavy, but the belief that we are near some town induces us to keep all we started with. 
We encamped for the night at the spring of water that we found. Travelled about 10 miles 
to-day. 

Friday, September 14<A.— Filled our bottles, and started soon after daylight, going over 
hills and plains. The walking has been better to-day. Found a little fruit. Some varieties 
of the cactus yield a very pleasant fruit, and if we are fortunate enough to get it before the 
ants, we find it refreshing. This afternoon we passed a quantity of some kind of ore which 
was strewn over the ground ; it was heavy, and had the appearance of antimony. I have 
broken off a small sample, and shall take it with me. We have walked very fast this after- 
noon, hoping to find water to pass the night by. Just at night we found good water, and on 
the banks we discovered fresh tracks ; and on going forward a mile, the mission buildings of 
San Fernandez were in sight. It was dark when we reached them, and we commenced a search 
for inhabitants, going into the ruins of the church, but we could find no one, and we spread 
our blankets under some pomegranate-trees, on which there was no fruit, and so passed the 
night. 

Saturday, September ISi'A. — Arose early this morning and commenced a reconnoissance of the 
place, and in passing down the valley we discovered two huts and a field of corn and melons. 
The only inhabitants are three old Indians. One of the men made us a dish of " ortola," 
which revived us very much. There is a small stream of water running through the valley, 
which is used for irrigation. There are no grapes or figs raised here. The old church build- 
ings are entirely in ruins, and are not occupied for any purpose. We are not able to procure 
horses here, and shall be obliged to walk to El Rosario, and we have concluded to go on this 
afternoon. At three o'clock we started, one of the old men acting as guide out of the valley 
52 



140 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

and starling us on the right road ; we walked about six miles, having crossed two mountains, 
and encamped on a plain. 

Sundai/, September l&th. — Started this morning as soon as it was light, and crossed several 
heavy mountains. Found water at half-past seven, nine, and ten o'clock. At the last place we 
rested for an hour, taking a bath and filling our pouches ; travelled until six o'clock ; passed the 
night among the mountains. It was very cold and unpleasant. Have walked a good distance 
during the day, and are nearly worn out with fatigue and hunger. The country through which 
we passed to-day presents the same barren, unforbidding appearance, without much vegeta- 
tion. A few mesquit and willows are all that can be seen. 

Mondai/, September l^th. — As soon as it was light enough for us to see, we started. We 
cannot travel very fast, as our feet are very sore, and we are almost worn out with fatigue. 
Davis and Smith are quite ill, and cannot' go much farther without help ; and as we know that 
we are not far from El Rosario, a part of the party go on, and if we find any one will send re- 
lief to them. At 10 o.' clock we saw a smoke rising from behind some willows, and we at once 
went down into the ravine and found some Indian huts. The Indians were cooking some 
beans and we obtained them, ate a few, and sent back to our companions the balance. As 
soon as we had finished these we proceeded down the valley to the casa of William Ennis, which 
is situated near the church of the mission of El Rosario. This is the most extensive valley we 
have yet seen. I am not able to say how long it is, but think about five or six miles by about 
a mile in average width. The soil is good, but is but little cuttivated. There were formerly 
two church establishments here, but they are now both in ruins. The one near where we are 

stopping is now used as a sheep and cattle pen. We find here Don Nicolas , who is on 

his way from San Diego to some point down the coast on the gulf, and we are treating with 
him to take us to San Diego. He has 10 mules. We learn that Cook and his companions, 
who left San Borja two days before us and took the mountain-road, came in here in a very 
destitute and miserable condition, having lost all their animals but one, and that so reduced, 
that they were obliged to leave him here. It would be hard to choose between the two routes. 

Tuesday, September ISIh. — Davis and Smith arc both better, and we have made arrange- 
ments with Don Nicolas to take us to San Diego, and are to start on Thursday morn- 
ing. Have made a map of our route for the last week, and a man leaves here to-morrow to 
try and find some of our abandoned horses and goods. They tell us that we were within two 
days of El Rosario, and one day of San Fernandez, when our guide left us. 

Wednesday, September I9th. — We begin to-day to feel in earnest the effects of our severe 
hardships and exposures. We are not disposed to stir about, but wish to keep as quiet as 
possible. What we have suffered for the past month or more can never be known except 
by ourselves, and can only be appreciated by those who have been placed in similar situations. 
What with the want of food, and the actual suffering for the want of water ; foot-sore and 
weary ; with heavy burdens upon our backs ; with the sun pouring down upon the already 
heated sand ; at times literally drenched with perspiration ; in doubts as to whether we 
were upon the road — it is a perfect marvel that we have got through as well as we have. 

Thursday, September 20th. — I passed a very sick night, which I attribute to the fact of^at- 
mg so much green-food, and overloading my stomach, as when we arrived here we were nearly 
in a state of starvation, and could not control our appetites when food was placed before us. 
But, as we had named this morning for starting, I determined to go on. Left El Rosario at 
nine o'clock with our contractor and his son, who goes with us to San Diego. After travelling 
a, few miles, I threw considerable from my stomach, and was much relieved. We rode 10 
leagues, and encamped for the night by a creek of fresh water. The road has been over a 
barren country for most of the day. 

Friday, September 2 Is^.— Started early this morning, and as we proceeded up the road 
we saw some persons, who, on approaching, we recognized as some of our companions of the 
schooner San Juan. We learned that, after we left her on the 11th of August, they put out 
to sea, and in a gale were blown off the coast for about 300 miles, and that they were out of 
provisions, having on board but about a peck cf rice when they put into the bay of San 
Simon, and they pointed her out to us a short distance up the coast. We had thus met after 
a separation of 45 days. We boarded her, and procured some clothing and blankets ; bidding 
adieu to our companions, we travelled about 15 miles, and encamped on an extensive and dry 
plain. 

Saturday, September 22(/.— Did not get a very early start, as some of the mules had 
broken away and wandered off in search of food and water. After starting, some of us went 
ahead, our guide telHng us to go on till wc came to water and remain till he came up. 
Misunderstanding him, we passed the water some five miles, when, thinking that we might 
not be on the right road, we went back and met him. He intended to have remained at the 
creek for a rest, and then move on to a ranch to pass the night ; but we had disarranged his 
plans, as there was no water for a long distance from the stream we had passed. Night over- 
took us two leagues short of the ranch, where we encamped. The country through which we 
have passed to-day has been very sandy 

Sunday, September 23c/.— "San Talmo Meto." Our mules broke away again, and it was 
some time before we could get them. One had gone three miles in search of water. We 
were not long in reaching this ranch after wc got started. The proprietor, Ignacio Arso, is 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 141 

a fine-looking, portly old Spaniard — would make a good Falstaff. After breakfast we left, 
and travelLed over a mountainous country until seven o'clock, when we reached San Rafael, 
which is a mere cabin. There are a few cattle here. 

Monday, September 24</t. — From San Rafael we passed over an uneven but fair road for 
four and a half leagues, when we arrived at the ranch El Salado, owned by a cousin of our 
guide, Don Nicolas, and brother of our first guide from San Jose de Grace to San Iguacio — 
Juan Jose— and we received a cordial welcome. At present the ranch is only for grazing, 
but Seiior Marie, the proprietor, is now busy making adobes for a new house, and he intends 
to bring in a stream of water for irrigation ; this will enable him to raise all kinds of fruits 
and vegetables. The valley is quite extensive, and the soil appears to be good. We spent 
the entire day at El Salado, and we are to exchange two of our mules for two horses. 

Tuesdai/, September 2oth. — Did not get an early start, as our tv/o horses did not come ia 
till about 12 o'clock. At two we started and rode to San Vicente, three and a half leagues, 
an excellent ranch. The road and country are uneven and rough^ but, as we are well mounted 
and have no cares, we got along finely. Our guide is perfectly acquainted with every mile of 
the road. At this ranch they raise corn and melons, but we find no fruit. We slept to-night 
under a roof, wliich^e found a great protection, as the heavy dews every night wet our blank- 
ets through. 

Wednesday, September 2&th. — Leaving San Vicente, we passed over a rolling country to 
Guadalupe, one and a half leagues distant. The ranch is beautifully situated, with liigh moun- 
tains surrounding it. The amount of arable land is small but pi'oductive. The houses are much 
better than any we have seen before. They have good beds and bedsteads, which are the first 
we have met with, as in all other places the natives sleep upon a dry hide on the ground or 
stretched on a frame. They are also supplied with tables and benches. At one o'clock we 
were again in our saddles, travelling over a very mountainous road. We encamped at six 
o'clock, when we found grass. 

Thursday, September l^lh. — Started this morning at six o'clock, and rode for two hours 
over a very mountainous country to San Tomas. The church at this mission is nearly in 
ruins. The padre was not here when we arrived, so that I could not deliver my letter which 
the padre at San Ignacio was so kind as to give me. This letter, which was open, was of con- 
siderable service to us on our way. We made but a short halt at San Tomas, and passed on 
for two leagues to La Greuria, passing one very high mountain on the way. From La 
Greuria we rode over a very good road, but through a rather barren country, for four hours, 
and encamped on an extensive plain just at dark. No water here. 

Friday, September 2Sth. — At an early hour we were in our saddles and rode to Ensenado 
or Todos Santos, passing, for most of the way, over dry plains and sandy hills. This ranch 
is situated in an extensive valley, and is owned by Senor Francisco Gustalo, an elegant Span- 
ish gentleman, who has many of the conveniences of civilized life about him. We found here 
clean tables, with table furniture. The first knives and forks we have seen in the country we 
found here. Leaving Todos Santos at three o'clock, we passed over quite a level country, 
encamping at dark under a large oak-tree, the branches of which cover an immense space. 
Our guide told us that the Indians about here are " muy bravos," and cautioned us to have 
our weapons ready, which we did. 

Saturday, September 29th. — Started this morning at half-past six o'clock, and travelled over 
a very mountainous road for four or five leagues to San Miguel. The mountain which we 
descended on entering the valley is one of the worst we have encountered in our travels. It 
is almost perpendicular, and the descent was very difficult. This valley is quite extensive, and 
there appear to be several ranches farther up, where corn and melons are raised. We have 
passed through immense fields of wild oats and mustard, where large numbers of horses and 
cattle are grazing. The Indians about here are represented as being very troublesome. San 
Miguel is one of the old missions, whose church buildings are now, like the others, in ruins. 
Travelling over a very good road, we arrived at half-past seven o'clock at the mission of El 
Descanso. 

Sunday, September dOth. — Our mules are in such a condition that our guide says he can 
go no farther to-day, and we shall be obliged to remain here until to-morrow morning. 
This is very annoying, as we are now near San Diego, and are anxious to get forward. The 
old church at this mission is occupied as a sheep-pen, and a family live in a part of the estab- 
lishment that has a roof remaining. The mountains about here have a barren appearance, 
but the valleys produce grass for the cattle. ^ 

Monday, October 1st. — Leaving El Descanso in the morning, we travelled over a very good 
road, but thnugh a very dry country, for four and a half leagues, to an Indian ranch, situated 
in a pretty little valley, where we halted an hour, and, passing on, rode over a very good road 
to a small valley which we entered just at dark, and encamped without any water for ourselves 
or animals. 

Tuesday, October 2d. — Were in our saddles at seven o'clock, travelling over a fine road 
until eleven, when we came to the camp of the American and Mexican boundary commissioners. 
Here I met A. B. Gray, Esq., of the American commission, whom I had known in New York, 
and who extended every kindness to us. We receive here the first news from the United 
States that we have heard for six months, and we literally devoured a copy of the New York 



14:2 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

Tribune that we found in camp. From this we learn of the death of President Polk, Mrs. Madi- 
son, Mr. Ogden, and others; and that the cholera has been raging in the United States. This 
camp is nine miles from San Diego. Spending an hour at the camp, we rode on and arrived 
in the afternoon at San Diego. The carpenter of the surveying commission, as soon as we 
arrived, invited us to his tent, giving free access to every thing he had, and the name of Moses 
M. Conner will always be remembered with peculiar satisfaction. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 143 



EEPOKT OF DK. JOHN" A. YEATCH ON CEREOS OR 
CEDROS ISLAND. 

CERROS OR CEDROS ISLAND. 

Looking at a chart of the coast of Lower California, about midway betwixt Cape San Lucas 
and San Diego, fronting the great bay of San Sebastian Viscaino, the island of Cerros, or 
Cedros, will be observed, between the parallels of 28° and 29" N. (See Appendix K.) In 
Lippincott's Gazetteer its position is given as in latitude 28° 12' N. and longitude 115° 29' W. 
The point assumed is probably that of the well-known watering-place on the east side of the 
island, about one-third its length from the southern end. It is correctly laid down on the 
old Spanish charts, and was doubtless visited by the early explorers of the coast more than 
250 years ago. The remains of rude huts along the shore, and occasionally in the interior, 
probably mark some of their temporary sojourning-places. 

The bay was named after Don Sebastian Viscaino, who was sent by the Viceroy of Mexico, 
Don Gaspar Zuniga, in the year 1602, to survey the coast of Lower California. Cedros lies 
immediately west of the bay, and forms, with the island of Natividad, a kind of enclosure for 
the southern portion of it. It is about thirty miles in length, due north and south, com- 
mencing in a narrow but lofty and precipitous headland at the north, and gradually expand- 
ing to a breadth of about eighteen miles at the southern extremity, with an average width of 
ten miles. 

From the extreme southeastern portion of the island, to Point San Eugenio en the 
mainland, is a distance of twenty miles. About midway lies the barren sandstone island of 
Natividad, above named, five miles in length, pointing east and west, and some half mile in 
width. It is about six hundred feet in height. Its position serves as a barrier to the southern 
winds and waves, thus aiding Cerros and Point San Eugenio to fence in, so to speak, the southern 
part of the bay. This sheltered condition and the fresh water on Cerros attracting passing 
vessels, may account for the early correct knowledge of this portion of the coast ; while the 
magnificent bay of Magdalena, much farther south, remained almost unknown, until Sir 
Edward Belcher, in 1839, and Du Petit Thouars, about the same time, surveyed and published 
charts of it. The eastern side of the island has long been a place of resort for whalers and 
coasting-vessels as a watering-place. A more comfortable and convenient point for the 
purpose could hardly be found. A spring of water, not exceeding thirty feet from the margin 
of the sea, with an anchorage scarcely a cable's length away, pi'otected from the prevailing 
winds, with scarce a ripple on the surface, renders the filling and taking on board of casks an 
easy task. 

I spent the months of June, July, and August, in the year 1859, on this island. The 
object was to search for minerals, especially copper ores. It was believed, from some cause 
or other, that a very large vein of the latter ore, of great richness, existed somewhere on the 
island. No nearer designation of the locality than " somewhere on the island " could be 
obtained. The evidences were, however, sufficient to induce a few capitalists of San Fran- 
cisco to fit out an expedition to find the coveted treasure. I engaged to conduct the 
exploration. The following observations I gathered during my three months' labors ; — 

TOPOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. 

The general appearance of the island is broken and rugged in the extreme. The sombre 
and pensive grandeur of its barren peaks attracts in a forcible manner the attention of passing 
voyagers. On a near approach to the eastern side, the naked granitic cliffs of the north,, 
and the broken, upheaved, and contorted slate strata of the south, present striking and 
interesting features. The whole island at a little distance presents the look as if a collection: 
of mountain-peaks had been compressed together and planted by the Titans amid the restless 
sea-waves. 

On reaching the field of operations, I spent the first few days in examining the east side 
of the island in a whale-boat, landing at practicable points, and clambering into the interior. 
The topography was slowly developed, and a degree of order found in the seeming inextricable 
confusion. Three parallel mountain-ranges, in close proximity with each other, cross the- 
island diagonally from the southwest to the northeast. Toward their centre, and thence to> 
their eastern terminus, the ranges culminate in several sharp peaks, and finally terminate in 
abrupt precipices, descending perpendicularly into the waters of the bay. The most southerly. 



144: SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

of the series is the least elevated. It commences at the south end of the island — about the 
centre — and forms the east side of South Bay. Its formation is of slate, shale, and sandstone, 
portions of which are highly fossiliferous, and present an attractive field to the paleontologist. 
The axis and western side of the range are highly metamorphosed — the fossils being found only 
on the eastern side. Masses of serpentine, associated with chromic iron, are found at several 
points on this range. 

The second range commences at and forms the southwest extremity of the island as well 
as the southwest side of South Bay. It is a bold basaltic headland — a huge truncated cone, 
regular as an artificial structure when seen from a distance, but rough and ragged in surface 
on a closer view. It is about eight hundred feet high. In a short description of the island, 
published soon after my return, I called this remarkable promontory " Mount Lent," after 
William M. Lent, of San Francisco, of the firm of Lent, Sherwood & Co., under whose auspices 
the expedition was mainly fitted out. From this origin the range proceeds northeasterly 
with considerably less elevation, iu a sharph'-serrated ridge, a distance of some six miles, when 
it ascends rapidly in height and forms the three peaks, the most southerly of the quintuple 
group seen by passing ships. The one nearest the northern termination of the range, viz., 
near the east side of the island, was found by barometric measurement to be about 3,600 feet 
above the sea-level. I named it " Mount Ayres," after Dr. William 0. Ayres, Corresponding 
Secretary of the California Academy of Natural Sciences. It is the highest peak on the 
island, except one in the northern range. I give the height as an approximation. The 
observations I directed to be made with an aneroid at the station camp, near the sea-level, 
during my examination of the peaks, were so far neglected as to give little or no aid in correct- 
ing my own observations. 

This chain is mostly basaltic, with metamorphic slate and hornblende rock. Serpentine, 
with heavy masses of chromic iron, is to be found at intervals along the whole range. I have 
designated it as the middle or Mount Ayres Range. 

The third or northern range rises on the west and runs in the same oblique direction to 
the eastern side of the island. The axis of this range gradually assumes a more northern 
direction, and finally terminates at, and forms the north end of the island — an enormous 
precipice of probably two thousand feet in height. 

There are three peaks on tliis range, one of which I estimated to be two hundred feet 
higher than Mount Ayres. Tlie formation is granite, porphyry, and basalt. Many curious 
and interesting features exist. In one place a group of basaltic pillars occurs. They are 
mostly pentagonal, of from four to six inches on the side ; they dip about 45" to the south. 
The base of the mountain at one point is a dark-colored porphyry, much diked by a lighter- 
colored rock of the same character. Toward the summit the latter overspreads the first 
entirely, and forms the crest of one of the peaks. The island partakes of the volcanic and 
igneous character of the adjacent mainland. 

The Mount Ayres and north ranges are separated by two ravines heading close together 
near the centre of the island and running to opposite sides, one to tlie east and the other to 
the west. These ravines lorm an easy passway across the island. That on the east expands 
into a kind of valley, half a mile wide at the mouth. It is designated as Bearing's Gulch or 
Valley — named for Captain R. N. Bearing, well known on the Pacific coast as a whaling com- 
mander. Up this valley or ravine and down the opposite gulch there is an easy passway from 
one side to the other of the island. The dividing ridge is about 1 ,500 feet high. A 
good road might be made, with very little expense, up Bearing's Valley to the summit, the 
grade being very regular and gradual. A grove of pines crowns the crest of the third range, 
and almost overhangs the right side of the valley, about three and a half miles up it. On the 
left side opposite there are good springs of water. There is a fine landing-place, and the 
schooner Odd Fellow, Captain Howes, lay at anchor near the shore during part of our stay. 

There are several other landing-places between this and the north end of the island. 
Wherever ravines have broken through the front wall, comfortable landings can be effected. A 
lai-ge ravine, six miles north of Bearing's Valley, affords good water, less than a mile from 
the shore. Indeed, springs occur in nearly every ravine ; all about on the same level, say six 
hundred or eight hundred feet above the sea. Toward the north end these springs become 
brackish, and farther on intensely salt. This is to be regretted, as at the extreme north there 
is probably a valuable lode of gold, if not several of them. Of this I shall have occasion to 
speak further on. 

GENERAL SURFACE. 

The terms " rough and broken " might be applied to the southern extremity, and convey 
some idea of the actual condition ; but the addition of " craggy and precipitous " would convey 
but a fiiint notion of the confused jumbling of sharp ridges, deep ravines with perpendicular 
walls, high peaks and beetling cliffs, of the northern portion of the island. 

The southeasterly portion, flanking the first range, is far less rough and much more 
accessible than any other part. By means of the ravines that open into the sea the summit 
of the range can easily be reached. This is important, as the ravines have laid bare many 
masses of chromic iron, which might be transported along their beds to the shore. This 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 145 

condition of surface extends on the east side up to the ships' watering-place. Beyond 
that, north, especially above Bearing's Valley, is found the utter confusion above described. 

The existence of numerous deep ravines excavated in the solid rock, and that cut and 
score the mountain-sides from near their summits to the sea-shore, deepening and widening 
as they descend, puzzled me greatly at first to account for their formation. They were 
evidently water-worn, and presented the appearance of the channels of our California rivers, 
where tliey cut through the solid rocks of the slope of the Sierra Nevada. Such streams 
certainly never existed on the island ; how, then, were these ravines made ? It soon became 
apparent that the sea itself had formed them as the island was gradually uplifted. The 
immense quantities of boulders and rounded pebbles of every size, hurled by each wave 
against the face of the perpendicular cliffs, wear them irregularly, as they present a harder 
or softer surface. A slight cavity once made has its floor covered with heavy pebbles at each 
lift of the sea, which roll back as the wave retires, tbus scouring and wearing with never- 
ceasing action. As the shore is gradually upheaved, a ravine is the result. This excavating 
process can be seen actually at work now in numerous spots on the east side. Some of the 
ravines have just been commenced ; others are a few yards in length, just lifting their heads 
above the sea ; while others again stretch away to near the summit ; while tons of stones are 
forever swept in and out with a growling, melancholy sound, deepening and widening their 
mouths. 

These ravines attest the gradual upheaval of the island. There are other sea-marks dis- 
connected with any ravines, proving the same fact. On the side of Mount Ayres, two thou- 
sand feet high, a horizontal water-worn line is to be traced, once marking the water level. At 
that period the peaks alone were above the surface, presenting a cluster of rocky islets. 

There are proofs, too, of the alternations of depressions and upheavals. At one point 
near the middle of the island the stratification of the slate stands perpendicular, but much 
bent and contorted, rising out of the sea some fifty or one hundred feet in elevation. On that 
is laid an immense mass of perfectly horizontal slates, many hundred feet in thickness. The 
same thing occurs on the mainland at San Bartolome Bay, a little south of Point Eugenio. 

BAYS AND HARBORS. 

South Bay, in the southwest extremity of the island, is the only bay of importance. It 
is formed, as before stated, by the projection of the first and second ranges at their southern 
extremities into the sea, holding the bay betwixt them. It is a snug, quiet place, sheltered 
from the prevailing winds, but open to southwest blows, which, however, I am informed do 
not often occur. There are seven fathoms of water up close to the shore. The anchorage is 
excellent. There are a few rocks covered at high tide, rendering caution necessary in enter- 
ing. The shore is a shelving, sandy beach, and was, in the palmy days of sea-elephant hunt- 
ing, a great slaughtering-ground. Many interesting shells are found here. The Chinese visit 
the bay for the purpose of collecting abelone shells and preparing their flesh. From the num- 
ber of stone huts on its margin, having, many of them, a very antiquated appeai'ance, I judge 
this bay to have been the recipient of protracted visits for many years back. 

I observed head-boards marking the graves of several New Bedford seamen, I suppose from 
whaling-ships. There are no bays or harbors of any kind on the west side of the island. The 
northwest winds, and the waves they raise, beat forever against the rock-bound shore, fring- 
ing with a line of surf the entire length of the island. 

The eastern side of the island is one great harbor its entire length. Sir Edward Belcher 
speaks of the importance of Magdalena Bay as a point from which the coast of Mexico and 
California could be observed in case of a war. Cerros Island and the bay of Viscaino would, 
doubtless, be far more eligible for such a purpose, as the harbor would admit of ingress or 
egress with any wind. 

The anchorage is excellent everywhere, especially toward the south. The water is gen- 
erally as smooth on the surface as a small lake. There was no day during my stay that a 
small boat might not have been sculled ashore by a single man from a vessel lying in the har- 
bor, without risk or danger from the surf 

On the shore side of the bay of Viscaino, opposite Cerros, is the entrance to Scammon's 
Lagoon. The whaling-ground and the salt-fields to which it leads have rendered it a point 
of no inconsiderable importance. I cannot do better than to introduce Captain Scammon's 
notes on this as well as the Ballenas Liigoon, and on the coast of Lower Cahfornia generally. 
These notes were kindly placed at my disposal, together with the accompanying charts and 
sailing directions, not heretofore published. These notes and 'charts give the only reliable 
information in detail of this part of the coast. Captain Scammon's observations are as fol- 
lows: 

"Scammon's Lagoon was first commercially and geographically known in the year 1855. 
The entrance is wide enough to afford a beating channel for vessels of 200 or 300 tons, 
that do not draw more than 12 feet. There are three fathoms at high water in ordi- 
nary tides on the bar, and the channel is so plainly marked by the line of breakers on the south 
side, there is no difficulty in sailing in. After once entering the true channel, vessels of 400 



146 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

tons, drawing 15 feet, have passed the bar in safety going in, but have been obliged to wait a 
fair wind out again. 

" I have beat out over the bar twice in rough weather, without difficulty, in a ship of 300 
tons, drawing 12 feet. Vessels now run regularly between San Francisco and this lagoon, 
bringing return-cargoes of salt, which they procure at the head of the lagoon, from natural 
salt-ponds — an almost inexhaustible uantity. 

" Both Scammon's and Ballenas Lagoons are fronted by low sand-hills, and shoal water 
extends a long way off shore. If bound for Scammon's Lagoon, the land should be approached 
within two or three miles, in latitude about 28° 41 N. Keep the coast aboard, if clear 
weather, and run along the southward, where you will see ' Lagoon-head.' It makes like an 
island ; steer a course to pass a mile to the westward, and if near night you may anchor under 
Lagoon-head, and await daylight, when, with the accompanying chart as a guide, there is no 
difficulty in finding the entrance and passing the bar with a conimandiiig breeze. 

" Ballenas Lagoon is situated near the head of the open bay of Ballenas, in latitude 26° 40' 
N. and longitude 113° 15' W. This lagoon was first geographically known in the year 1860. 
In the month of December, 1860, a fleet of four whaling-vessels, under my command, passed 
the bar and entered the lagoon in safety. We entered by the North Channel, which is not 
more than half a cable's length wide ; and 12 feet of water is all that can be depended on in 
crossing the bar at high water with average tides; but where the shoaled is, there is but little 
or no swell. In the South Channel there is 15 feet of water a^ high tide, but much more 
swell. The only safe way we found to pass the bar of this lagoon was, first to sound out the 
channel and put buoys at convenient distances apart in mid-channel. South Channel is about 
the same width as the North, and the distance across the bar is not more than a cable's 
length. 

"Neither of these channels would be of any practical use, if it were not for the certainty of 
the strong land and sea breezes which make a fair wind to pass either in or out of the lagoon. 

" In the months of December and January, and a part of February, north and northeast 
winds prevail, which destroy the heavy ocean-swell that prevails at other seasons of the year. 
During the smooth season there is but little difficulty in sounding the channel with boats, and 
placing buoys as you please. Neither wood nor water can be procured at this place. A 
' ranchero,' who lived eighteen miles inland, furnished the vessels with plenty of cattle to 
kill for beef The price was usually about sixteen dollars for a bullock. From the head of 
this lagoon to the east coast of the peninsula — to the shore of the Gulf of California — is only 
about 40 miles ; and we frequently had people from Loreto and to visit the vessel for the 
purpose of trade, bringing dried figs, dates, and the wild oranges of the country, to exchange 
for bread, flour, and clothing." 

NOTES ON THE COAST OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 

"In sailing along the coast of Lower California, I have always made it a rule to never run 
a ship through thick kelp before sounding it. By adopting this plan I avoided all hidden 
dangers, for the space of eight years, which time I was almost constantly cruising close along 
the shores and in the bays or lagoons adjacent. 

" Formerly there was a great deal of kelp along the coast, but from some cause in 1861 it 
almost entirely disappeared, and up to the spring of 1863 had not grown again to any extent. 

" Deeming the information might possibly be worth the reading, the following remarks are 
made : 

"From San Martin's Island to San Geronimo Island, which lie north and south, and south 
of the port of San Quentin, there are many shoal places, and rocks, which are not laid down 
on any charts of the present day. Off San Quentin, bearing about south by compass, distance 
five or six miles, a rock or shoal exists that the sea breaks heavily upon in moderately rough 
weather. Much foul ground is found between San Geronimo Island and the mainland. Rocks 
exist in the passage betwixt the islands of Cerros and Natividad, but nothing that will bring 
a ship up till near the shore on either side. The passage between Natividad and the main 
should not be attempted by those unacquainted, as it is known that one ship has been seri- 
ously injured by striking a rock in going through in the night. 

" At Cerros Island, at the east side, near the southeast end, there is a small stream of 
water coming from the side of a mountain, near the base and running close to the beach. 
From 1,200 to 1,500 gallons of water may be procured during 24 hours' time. The casks are 
filled by rolling them to the upper side of the beach, and laying a spout from the stream to 
the bung-hole of the cask. The water is difficult to find, and the only sure way of finding it 
is to begin near the southeast point of the island, and search the shore carefully to the north- 
ward till it is found. Directly abreast of the watering-place it is deep water close to the 
shore ; 20 to 25 fathoms would not be more than two cables' length from the beach. 

" About half a mile to the southward the land is quite low, close to the shore, and low- 
land extends back some distance. It is fronted by a gravel beach. Here good anchorage 
may be had in 17 to 20 fathoms. There are no hidden dangers on the east side of Cerros, and, 
with the usually westerly winds, it is generally calm and smooth at the anchorage. At times 
■when the winds get to the south of west, which is not often, heavy nillies blow from the moun- 
tains. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 147 

" Wood may be had at this place by followhig the gulch toward the interior. It is small, 
and being a mile or more from the shore, requires a good deal of labor to secure any consid- 
erable supply for a ship. Although small, it is of excellent quality. We obtained four months' 
supply for cooking-purposes, with a crew of 30 men, in three days, not making over eight 
hours each day. 

WINDS AND WEATHER ON THE COAST OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 

" From San Diego to Cape San Lucas, northwest winds prevail throughout the year, follow- 
ing the bend of the land as you close in with the coast. During the months of December and 
January the regular coast winds (northwest) are most likely to be interrupted by heavy ' north- 
ers.' These winds blow from north to northeast, and last from one to three days. Southeast 
gales of much strength seldom occur. From November to April, about the change of the 
moon, light southeast gales may occur, with considerable rain. About the breaking up of the 
bad weather, when the wind hauls about southwest, it sometimes blows quite fresh for a few 
hours ; then the wind comes from the northwest, bringing fine weather again. About Cape 
San Lucas these remarks do not apply so well in the hurricane season on the coast of Mexico 
— as gales occurring on that coast sometimes reach the cape and extend as far north as Mag- 
dalena Bay — but one instance of this kind occurred, to my knowledge, during eight succes- 
sive years. 

(Signed) " C. M. SCAMMON, 

" Lieut. Commanding U. S. Revenue Steamer Shubrick." 

It may not be inappropriate to add here that evidences exist of alternate northern and 
southern currents. They are drawn from the fact of the concbology of the island presenting a 
remarkable blending of northern and southern types — to be accounted for in no other way 
than by the action of strong submarine currents up and down the coast. 

The bay of San Bartolome, just south of Point Eugenio, is another small, quiet, and per- 
fectly-sheltered harbor. Fresh water has been found by digging 30 feet, at a point at the foot 
of a bluff on the northeast side of the bay. Thei-e is no wood. It is perhaps of little value, 
unless it be for a point from which to communicate with the interior. The existence of fresh 
water would give it an advantage in tliis regard over Scammou's or Ballenas Lagoon. 

On the northeast side of the bay of Viscaino, about a mile from the main, is a barren rock, 
about f of a mile in length by I of a mile in breadth, known as " Elide Island," on which was 
formerly a valuable deposit of guano, now wholly removed. A small quantity of that valu- 
able article is still to be found on the rocky islets outside of Cerros, and on like spots along 
the mainland. Captain Howes, who is familiar with every point along this portion of the 
coast, thinks guano might be collected in the aforenamed localities in quantities sufficient to 
be worth attention. 

I visited Elide Island and the adjacent mainland on my return from Cerros. There is a 
good landing for boats on the mainland, a little northeast of the island, with but little surf, on a 
sandy beach ; I did not go far into the interior. The general aspect of the country is that 
of thirst and barrenness, producing only a few thorny shrubs and numerous cactacea. The 
adjacent mountains are, doubtless, metalliferous. Captain R. N. Bearing, v/ho had charge of 
Elide, showed me some good samples of copper ore found at no great distance, as he was in- 
formed, in the interior. Silver is said to exist in the same locahty. The specimens and in- 
formation were obtained from the natives. 

MINERALS— COPPER. 

A VERY remarkable feature in the mineralogy of the island is the general difiTusion of cop- 
per in various mineral forms throughout every formation, whether slates, shales, basalt, or 
porphyry. Everywhere stains and spots of copper met the eye on the weathered surfaces of 
the rocks. Among the slates, segregated masses of ore, of a few pounds up to a ton in 
weight, were frequently observed. They seemed to have no traceable connection with any 
regular vein. Had careful excavation been made in and about such localities, valuable de- 
velopments would probably have resulted. I was unfortunately deprived of the means of 
efficiently performing a work so essential, and had to be content with a few very superficial 
openings that gave no available information. The ore consisted seemingly of an oxide, min- 
gled with carbonate, sulphuret, and earthly impurities. It reduced readily into metallic copper 
in an ordinary portable forge we had with us. Traversing the slates were observed occasion- 
ally small seams, or very narrow veins of carbonate of lime, filled with metallic specks of cop- 
per in great abundance. These seams varied in width from ir an inch to 3 inches. 

It is more than probable the slates holding these veins and segregations might, in some 
localities, be found rich enough to be worked. The whole formation is cupriferous in a greater 
or less degree. It w(juld be well worth the examination to test the fact. The pi'actically in- 
exhaustible quantitij would admit of a low quality being made available. 

This copper-bearing range seems to occupy the eastern side of the island, nearly (he 
whole length. It first begins to show itself strongly near Mount Ayres, and thence north to 
the end. The seams of metallic copper were more abundant on the northeastern spurs of 
Mount Ayres than elsewhere. The elevation is about 1,500 feet above the sea, and 



148 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

about two miles from the sliore. The segregated masses have generally about the same elevation. 
Toward the north, however, they descend, and are found within an elevation of 500 feet. 

MANGANESE. 

Fragmekts of this mineral were found in several places in ravines. I observed no veins 
nor masses, but toward the north the fragments were so frequent, that not much doubt 
exists as to the probable abundance of the ore at certain points. 

CHROMIC IRON. 

Masses of chromic iron ore, associated with serpentine rock, are found in every part of 
the island, especially in the first and second ranges. In two places, one on the east of Mount 
Ayres, and the other a short distance south of Dearing's Valley, there are seemingly regular 
veins. The first-named vein is about three feet in width, the latter probably 20 feet — being 
the largest mass of that ore I ever encountered. A good road can be made to within f of a 
mile of the spot. Near it are several of the small seams, containing metallic copper, as above 
described. This would be the most convenient point to obtain the ore for shipment, should 
it ever be required. In the event of vessels returning to Europe in ballast, a cargo of value 
might be had here at little cost. 

TITANIFEROUS IRON O R E — (Appendix J.) 

A VEIN, of about 10 feet in width, of this ore, was found on the northern part of the island. 
It outcropped boldly, and was traceable, according to my recollection, about 150 feet on the 
surface. As iron from this ore is of great value, and is coming into demand for many impor- 
tant purposes, it may ultimately add much to the resources of the island. Other localities 
will probably be found near good landing-places, though the above great mass is by no 
means inaccessible. — (See Appendix.) 

GOLD. 

The last portion of the island examined was the extreme north, by far the most in- 
teresting of all, from the widely-diffused indications of minerals. Carbonate and sulphide 
of copper were found everywhere. The great vein, however, was not found. The inactive 
portion of the expedition had become weary with idleness, and were clamorous for a re- 
turn to San Francisco. Disgusted with the non-realization of their hopes, as to the con- 
centrated wealth hidden somewhere on the island, it became necessary to abandon the 
prosecution of further search. But a few hours were therefore allowed for a hurried re- 
connoissance of our last field of operations. 

Samples were hastily gathered from a remarkable locality, showing abundantly the usual 
metallic copper specks, as we supposed at the time. On closer examination in San Francisco, 
after our arrival, we found these samples to be gold instead of copper. The specimens 
were broken without discrimination from a large mass of similar rocks. Should it prove 
to be as extensive as it seemed, with the i-ichness possessed by the samples brought away, 
it is truly a valuable locality. 

But as my information is so very slight, I simply give the facts for what they are 
worth — stating, however, my favorable impression as to the existence of a valuable mine. 
The locality is only about a mile from shore. A road would have to be made over rather 
difficult ground. A small, quiet bay, nearly in front of it, would make a good embarcadero 
for shipping the ore. There is, unfortunately, no fresh water on that part of the island. Six 
or eight miles south is the nearest. 

/ None of the party save myself and two sons saw, or were near, the locality. From the 
nature of the broken and intricate surface, the mine is not likely to be rediscovered soon. 

SILVER. 

A PIECE of ore was brought in from the intei-ior of the island, in which I detected silver. 
The examination was not followed up, as the trace of metal was very slight. I believe, now 
that I have become familiar v,'ith the silver-mines of Nevada, that silver may be found in pay- 
ing quantity on Cerros. 

Should mines of any kind be opened on the island, so as to induce practical miners to re 
side there, I should not doubt the ultimate bringing to light of valuable mineral resources in 
no stinted abundance. 

CLIMATE. 

As far as temperature is concerned, I know of no spot so favored. My experience only 
extends, however, to one-fourth of a year. During my three months' sojourn, the thermom- 
eter did not vary over ten degrees between midnight and mid-day, on the easteni side of the 
island. The average temperature was H" Fahr. A more delightful climate could scarcely be 
imagined for an invalid. To the consumptive and rlieumatic patient, no more genial temper- 
ature on the earth's surface could be offered. The atmosphere is dry, but not harsh. Rain, 
I imagine, seldom occurs. Floods, at distant and irregular times, with intervening periods of 



EXPLOEATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 149 

entire drought, as on the main shore in the same latitude, may, of course, be expected here. 
Tiiere were two shght showers during my stay. 

The prevailing winds are from the northwest. There is a fair and interesting means of ob- 
serving the thiclcness or depth of the wind-stratum. It is nearly exactly 1,000 feet from the sui"- 
fuce of the ocean to the upper side of the moving mass of wind. On this float the sea-mists, 
which are hurled, as it were, against the mountains, and rebound in the form of slow-moving 
grand, gigantic billows, which, viewed from the peaks far above them, have a most weird and 
fearful appearance. 

Up to the elevation above named, the wind strikes with unabated force and persistency, 
as at San Francisco. Trees and shrubs — what few there are of them — ^^are bent down and 
pressed as it were against the mountain-side. At and above this line commences a region of 
perpetual calm, which is about the depth of the region of perpetual agitation below it, viz., 1,000 
feet. Within this zone of quiet, slender trees and shrubs stand perfectly erect, evidently 
never disturbed by rude winds. The two groves of pines are in this belt. The clouds rest 
here, and bathe the trees with perpetual moisture. The leaves are forever studded with drops 
of water, and the groves at any and all times seem to have just been subjected to a gentle 
rain-shower. The earth is sloppy, and a hole scooped out anywhere under the trees is 
quickly filled with fresh water. 

At a greater elevation, the wind again revels round the mountain-peaks, in irregular direc- 
tions and with uncertain force. Vegetation becomes again scanty, as the air becomes dry 
and untranquil. A few cedars {Juniperus cerrosiana, Kellog) and manzanito-trees {Arctosla- 

phi/los ) of a species I had not seen before, were the only arborescent representatives 

above the cloud-zone. 

In connection with the climate, I may mention certain singular markings on the surface 
of the ground, resembling neatly-swept garden-walks, which must have had a meteoric origin. 
One of these walks was about a mile in length, nearly due north and south. Commencing at 
the south, it ran in nearly a straight line, continuing over hillocks, rocks, ravines, and ob- 
structions of every kind ; at the end of a mile, it curved very regularly, with a radius of about 
200 feet, and returned nearly exactly parallel with its first course, at a distance of about 
150 feet from it, and terminated about opposite to where it commenced. The breadth of the 
track is six feet. 

A little north of the above is a still more remarkable road. It is 30 feet in breadth, 
and forms a complete circle of nearly IGO feet in diameter. It then passes off in a curve 
towards the north, gradually bending to the east, with a radius of about 5,000 feet. It is 
traceable a mile and a half The width of the road, on the long curve, is about three 
feet. It is swept out, in some places, four or five inches in depth. It is lost, finally, in hard, 
rough ground. It presents the appearance as if a jet of water — such as issues from a huge 
hydraulic pipe, used by the California miners — had been impinged in a moving column 
against the surface of the ground. It may have been the result of a Avhirlwind charged 
with the contents of a rain-cloud, the point just touching the earth, and delivering the 
water it bore as if from a funnel. May not water-spouts be formed in this way ? 

FAUNA, 

Of the animals, deer and rabbits are probably the only native quadrupeds. The herds 
of wild goats are, of course, the descendants of those introduced — how many years ago is 
unknown. The deer presents marked peculiarities, and, if not a new species, is at least a well- 
characterized variety, making the nearest approach to the black-tailed Cervus ColumUanus. 
We found them abundant in the northern part of the island. They seemed less timid than 
the goats, and I have had them approach within ten paces of me, snuffing and stamping 
with an air half-threatening, half-playful. 

Amongst the introduced animals may be named those pestiferous rodents, rats and 
mice. The Mus decumanus, the brown or Norway rat, with his little cousin, the M. 
niiisculus, or house-mouse, follow commerce and establish colonies wherever ships touch land. 
Thus the coast of California, and the adjacent islands, are by no means badly supplied 
with representatives of these familiar pests. To the list of native rodents I may add a 
small jumping-niouse (Jacuhcs ). 

The vicinity of Cerros Island is a favorite resort for that interesting animal, the sea-otter 
{Enhi/dra marina). Formerly they existed in great abundance, and the value of their fur 
caused them to be hunted with relentless energy. A man, skilled in the business, could 
sometimes realize a little fortune by a season's hunt. I was informed by an old otter 
hunter that numbers of the Northwest Indians were, for a long time, annually brought with 
their canoes to Cerros, by coasting schooners, from whence they made extensive and success- 
ful excursions in the neighborhood of the Cerros and the adjacent islands. At the pres- 
ent time the animal is comparatively scarce. It is still hunted, however, but with less 
vigor than of yore. The skins are worth from $25 to $50 each— one-fourth of their former 
price. One of rare size and beauty occasionally brings $1o. The sea-elephant {MacrGrhiims 
proboscidius), one of the most gigantic of the seal family, resorted formerly in great numbers 
to Cerros and the adjacent islets. They were much sought after for their oil. The species, 



150 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

as Captain Scammon informs me, is now nearly extinct on this coast. Not so, however, with 
the sea-lion ( Otaria jubata). He is more prolific, and there are fewer inducements for his de- 
struction. . He is, however, by no means beyond danger from the oil-man. At certain seasons, 
when the lion chances to have a little fat on his bones, he is slaughtered most mercilessly. 
Fortunately for him, his skin is nearly worthless, or there would be a double inducement for 
his destruction. Toward the north end of the island there is a great breeding-place for these 
animals. It is a small bay, two or three miles in length, and perhaps three-fourths of a mile 
in breadth, surrounded on the land by a perpendicular cliff, and on the ocean-side by a belt 
of kelp. It is thus protected both from winds and waves. It is bordered with a sandy beach, 
some 200 paces in breadth. The access by land is exceedingly difficult, and can only be 
gained by careful clambering down where breaks and fissures offer hand and foothold. This 
sequestered and quiet place is the comfortable and appropriate resort of the lionesses to bring 
forth and rear their young. It is indeed a great seal-nursery. My first visit to this interest- 
ing locality was in the latter part of the month of July. Seals, in countless numbers, literally 
covered the beach. They were of every conceivable size, from the young one, seemingly a 
few days old, up to the full-grown animal. So unconscious of danger were the little ones, that 
they scarce made an effort to get out of the way. I picked up many of them in my hands ; 
after a brief struggle, the little captive would yield, and seemed to fear no further harm. 
Hundreds slept so soundly, that I rolled them over before they could be induced to open their 
great baby-eyes. While thousands slept and basked on the sljore, an equal number floated 
lazily in the water, or dipped and dived about in sport. 

The mother-seals were more timid than their young, but seemed less alarmed than surprised 
at my approach. The look of startled inquiry was so human and feminine — nay, lady-like, 
that I felt as an intruder on the privacy of the nursery. 

I could not discover any individual claim set up by the mother for any particular little 
lion, but, like a great socialistic community, maternal love seemed to be joint-stock pi'operty, 
and each infant communist had a mother in every adult female. 

Ihe fathers of the great family appeared in point of numbers to be largely in the minority, 
counting, as I judged, not the hundredth part of the adult animals. A few bearded, growling 
old fellows, tumbled about in the water, yelling and howling in a most threatening manner at 
me, and approaching within a few feet of where I stood. A pebble tossed at one of them, how- 
ever, would be answered by a plunge beneath the surface and reappearance at a safer distance. 

I witnessed an unexpected act of tenderness on the part of one of the hugest and most 
boisterous old threateners for a little one that seemed to claim him for papa. He was blowing 
and screaming at me fearfully, when a young one at my feet hustled into the water, glided off" 
to the old. one, and, childlike, placed its mouth up to his. The old savage ceased his noise, 
returning the caress, and seemed, for several seconds, to forget his wrath at the unwelcome 
intruder. This show of affection saved his life. I was at the moment, rifle in band, waiting 
a chance to dislocate his neck. I wanted the skull of an otaria for my collection, and his huge 
size suggested him as an appropriate victim. I at once lost all murderous desire, and left him 
to the further enjoyment of parental felicity. 

The noise and uproar of the locality are scarcely to be imagined. A hundred thousand seals 
grunting, coughing, and shrieking at the same instant, made a phocine pandemonium I shall 
never forget. I will observe here that the male was fully four times as large as the female. 

In giving the generic and specific names of the the sea-lion (Otaria jubata), I have followed 
the writers on the zoology of the Pacific. The skulls in the collection of the California 
Academy of Natural Sciences are so labelled. Newberry calls it an Otaria, with a question as 
to the species, in the sixth volume of R. R. Reports. It seems, however, according to Gray, 
who has investigated the subject, that our sea-lion belongs to the genus Etimatopias {E. Stellerii, 
Gray). This is the name of the fur-seal of the north, which our sea-lion does not resemble, 
at least in fur-producing qualities. Its identity with the E. Stellerii seems to be based upon 
the evidences presented by two skulls sent to the Smithsonian Institute from the bay of 
Monterey, California. This, it seems to me, would hardly be sufficient, without further inves- 
tigation, to justify the placing of our hairi/ lion with the fur-coated Eumatopias. 

There may be a doubt, on the other hand, if the California sea-lion, with his maneless neck, 
can be identical with the southern Otaria jubata, whose designation of " lion" is obtained from 
the male having the leonine appendix of a mane. It is not impossible — hardly improbable — 
that our sea-lion, like our gray whale, remains yet to be christened with a scientific name by 
some zoological high-priest. 

The sea-elephant, though usually bearing the name before given {Macrorhinits proboscidius) 
is really M. Angiistirostrus — the former belonging to high northern parallels, and perhaps, 
never reaching as far south as San Francisco ; while the latter extends from Oregon to at 
least as far as Cape San Lucas, where Captain Scammon informs me he has often seen them. 
How much farther south they extend I am not informed. 

Besides the foregoing, I only observed one other seal at Cerros. It was a beautifully 

spotted animal — dark spots on a yellowish ground — known as the leopard-seal [Phoca ?). 

There are really several phocas on the California coast, and the question of identity remains 
yet to be settled as to most of the Pinnipedes of our shores. 

From seals the transition to the subject of ivhalcs is easy. But if doubt is applicable to 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 151 

the naming of our seals, it is still increased when applied to the whales. The " California 
gray " is the familiar name of the whale that formerly resorted to Scammon's Lagoon in im- 
mense numbers to bring forth their young. They had remained, probably for ages, undis- 
turbed by man in this hidden inland sea, until Captain Scammon disclosed their secret hiding- 
place in the year 1855. The havoc made amongst them for the next few years was terrific, 
and their numbers became rapidly reduced. They still frequent the lagoon, but no longer in 
such astonishing numbers. They are yet hunted by whalers, but with diminished energy. 
The destruction has been greatest amongst the females, as their size is at least double that 
of the male, and the quantity of oil yielded is in proportion, viz., about forty barrels for the fe- 
male and twenty for the male. 

There are several whales besides the "gray," such as the "humpback," and "sulphur- 
bottom," etc. The two latter are often encountered and taken for their oil, but do not, like 
the first named, seem to pertain particularly to our coast, nor, like it, go and come at certain 
fixed periods, nor seek the shelter of our shallow bays and lagoons to bring forth their young. 
The f/ray is doubtless new to science, and remains, with several less important members of its 
family on the Pacific coast, to be yet examined by competent scientific authority. 

The habits of the animal have been carefully studied by Captain Scammon, of the United 
States Revenue Service, whose extensive opportunities for observation have been improved 
with untiring industry, and whose labors when given to the public will have conferred no small 
benefit on science. He has made numerous accurate and excellent drawings of the gray as 
well as of several other species of whale found on our coast, the proportions corrected from 
actual measurements.* 

HERPETOLOGY — BIKDS, INSECTS. 

In herpetology there was found a rattlesnake from 12 to 16 inches in length, of a dull- 
brown color, with rattles of an almost pure white. Its habits varied from that of its family 
in its lack of combative qualities, being difficult to provoke it to battle ; it but seldom used 
its rattles and made a hissing or blowing sound, like an adder. Several species of lizards, one 
with very bright hues, occur, but not abundantly. A single species of frog was abundant in 
most of the fresh-water springs. 

Birds were not abundant, save those of the ocean. Doves, wrens, crows, buzzards, fly- 
catchers, and probably two species of hawk, were found in the mountains. 

Insect life is not favored by appropriate natural conditions, and therefore not abundant. 
I obtained not more tlian ten species, among them a brilliant wasp, and a large night-moth 
that in flitting about was at first mistaken for a bat. I obtained but two specimens, and 
they were unfortunately mutilated in packing my collection. 

One hundred and fourteen species of marine shells were gathered in a few days. They 
were examined by Dr. Newcomb, who found amongst them a remarkable commingling of 
northern and southern types, evidencing an alternation of northern and southern currents, as 
is observed under the head of " currents " in another place. 

Of the terrestrial air-breathing mollusks only a single snail was found (Helix Veatchiana, 
Newcomb). It was rather abundant. The same species occurred in great numbers on the 
main opposite Elide Island. 

The abelone [Halilotis ) is the only mollusk of economic value. Its shell is valuable 

for ornamental purposes in certain manufactures, and the flesh is often dried and sent to China. 
The animal is abundant on the half-submerged rocks of the south end of the island. 

FISHES. 

Fishes are abundant along the shores of Ceri-os as well as in the bay of Viscaino every- 
where. The lagoons swarm with them. The variety is very great. Of the small collection 
I was able to secure. Dr. W. 0. Ayres found nearly all to be specifically new. The great Jew- 
fish {Siereolepas Gigas, Ayres) — which occasionally strays as far north as San Francisco — 
abounds here. The great size to which it attains is remarkable, weighing from one hundred 
to four hundred pounds. The flesh is exceedingly delicate as an article of food. If speedy 
conveyance could be had to San Francisco the stereolepas would be a favorite of our fish- 
market. 

The shark family is well represented by several small species of that detestable group ; they 
abound in the shoal water, very close to the shore. 

SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. 

I WISH I could say as much for the soil as for the climate. The earth is an alkaline clay, 
harsh and barren, and I fear could not be coaxed to yield any of the products desirable to 
the horticulturist. One of my party planted beans, lettuce, etc., where irrigation could be 
employed ; but nothing flourished. And yet the native flora is somewhat extensive. I col- 
lected some fifty species of flowering plants. Two of them claimed the dignity of trees, viz., 
a pine and a cedar. There are two groves of pines — of some three hundred acres in 

* In the Appendix will be found interesting details in every point of view.— (Sfee Captain Scammon'a 
accoont in Appendix H.) 



152 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

extent each (Appendix G). They occupy the northwestern slope of the north mountain- 
range. They commence on the crest, or backbone, and extend down the side perhaps the 
fourth of a mile. They are within the calm zone, and seem never to have been shaken witli 
more than a breath of air. Some of the trees were from GO to 70 feet in height. Exceed- 
nigly tall and slender saplings stood as erect as flag-poles. (This pine is referred to in the 
Appendix.) 

The cedar grew more in the sheltered ravines. It had also braved the winds at points 
within the windy zone, but its body lay almost flat against the side of the mountain. 

A dwarf-oak, a mere tall shi-ub, was found on the north side of Mount Ayres. An ai-ctos- 
taphylon (manzanito) occurred near the summit. It attained a height of about 10 feet. 

The botanical collection was given to Mr. Bloomer, the curator of that department of the 
Academy of Sciences. Dr. Kcllog described and figured many of them. They proved to be 
nearly all specifically and some generally new. For a more particular description of some of 
the more interesting species, I refer to the Appendix. The two interesting species of Rhus 
(7?. Lentiana and R. Veatchiana) form marked features in the island flora, the former for the 
delicious acid exudation of its fruit, and the latter for its strangely grotesque growth and the 
picturesque effect of its profusion of pink flowers. 

A shrub that rooted itself in crevices of the rocks in considerable abundance bore an ex- 
cellent gland-like fruit, having much the appearance and size of a small acorn, and tasting 
like a chestnut. The goats and deer fed both on the fruit and leaVes. The genus is described 
in the " Boundary Survey Report " as Simoudsia, and the present species was named by Dr. 
Kellag as the S. Pahulosa. 

The grasses were few and sparse. I lost those I collected. The goats and deer could 
derive but scanty sustenance from the grasses, and therefore the fine condition they were in 
was, of course, drawn from some other class of food. 

A beautiful yellow-flowered agave or aloe plant, about 12 feet in height, with a stem from 
four to six inches in diameter at the base, branching and spreading at the top and terminating 
in a profusion of golden blossoms, was tolerably abundant. The flower-cups Avere filled with 
a fragrant, sweet liquid. 

The cactus family was represented by some four or five species ; among them a giant cereus 
and a very minute species of Mamalaria, with a disproportionately large flower, exceedingly 
fragrant. 

Of the Cryptogamia, I found one fern and some half-dozen lichens ; one of them only was 
abundant, on the rocks in one locality, toward the northern part of the island. It was two or 
three inches in height, somewhat branched, of a grayish color, and resembled a slerocaulon. 
The lichens have not yet been determined. The collection is in tlie herbarium of the Academy 
of Sciences, and ere long will be reached by the indefatigable industry of Bolander and Kellag. 

Of the marine Alga) the giant kelp-weed [Macroeyslus pyrifera) is the most important and 
conspicuous. The singular fact of its disappearance in a great measure from certain portions 
of the coast of Lower California is noticed in Captain Scammon's notes. Captain S. informs 
me that the same thing occurred at Pitcairn's Island some yeai-s ago — the kelp disappeai'ed 
and left certain portions of the shore exjjosed to the unbroken fury of the waves, which, ere 
the decay of the Macrocystus, had been noted for calmness and quiet. In the course of 
five or six years, however, the kelp again sprang up and I'eoccupied its old field, and bade the 
waves be still once more. 

This disappearance of the great wave-soothing ocean-plant is probably to be accounted for 
by its buoyancy — lifting the stones on which it is rooted, and floating off" with the anchor tiiat 
could hold the younger, but not the mature plant, with its immense length, its great cysts of 
air, and its broad, cellular floating leaves, impelled by storms and currents. It is to be hoped 
this important sea-weed may again fringe the coast from which it has partially departed. 

The Macrocystus is at present attracting attention as a source of iodine. It is said to be, 
along our coast, particularly rich in that valuable substance. It may be destined to add 
another item to the list of California resources. 

In illustration of the volcanic action existing along our coast, I append the following article. 
A chain of submarine volcanoes lying parallel with our shore, and not greatly distant from 
it, may account for the slight earthquakes that rather too frequently disturb us : 

BORACIC ACID IN THE SEA-WATER OF THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA. 

From the Proceedings of the California Academy of Natural Sciences, January 17, 1859. 

Dr. John A. Veatch read the following paper on the occurrence of boracic acid in the 
sea-water of the Pacific : 

" The existence of boracic acid in the sea-water of our coast was brought to my notice in 
July, 1857. I had, in the month of January of the previous year, discovered borate of soda 
and other borates in solution in the water of a mineral spring in Tehama County, near the 
upper end of the Sacramento Valley. Prosecuting the research, I found traces of boracic 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 153 

acid — in the form of borates — in nearly all the mineral springs with which the State of Call 
fornia abounds. 

" This vi-as especially the case in the coast mountains. Borate of soda was so abundant in 
one particular locality that enormous crystals of that salt were found at the bottom of a 
shallow lake, or rather marsh, one or two hundred acres in extent. 

"The crystals were hexahedral, with bevelled or replaced edges, and truncated angles; 
attaining the size, in some cases, of four inches iu length by two in diameter, forming splendid 
and attractive specimens.* In the same neighborhood a cluster of small thermal springs 
were observed holding free boracic acid in solution. A few hundred yards from these, a great 
number of hot-springs, of a temperature of 212°, rose up through the fissures of a silicious 
rock. These springs held a considerable quantity of borax, as well as free boracic acid. 
Many other localities furnished similar indications, but in less exten.-^ive form. 

" In progress of the examination, I found that tlie common salt (chloride of sodium) ex- 
posed for sale in the San Francisco market, and which, it was understood, came from certain 
deposits of that article on the sea margin in the southern part of the State, also furnished 
boracic acid. I was led to attribute it to the fact of mineral springs emptying into the la- 
goons furnishing the salt. 

" It was, therefore, a matter of no small surprise, when, on a visit to the localities, I found 
no trace of acid in any of the springs in the adjacent district. This led to an examination of 
the sea-water, and a detection of an appreciable quantity of boracic acid tlierein. 

" It was at Santa Barbara, where I first detected it, and subsequently at various points, 
from San Diego to the Straits of Fuca. It seems to be in the form of borate of soda, and 
perhaps of lime. The quantity diminishes toward the north. It is barely perceptible iu 
specimens of water brought from beyond Oregon, and seems to meet its maximum near Sau 
Diego. 

"This peculiarity seems to extend no great distance seaward. Water taken 30 or 40 miles 
west of San Francisco gave no trace of acid. In 12 specimens, taken at various points betwixt 
this port and the Sandwich Islands, furnished me by Mr. Gulick, of Honolulu, only that nearest 
our coast gave boracic acid. In 10 specimens, kindly furnished me by Dr. W. 0. Ayi-es, taken 
up by Dr. J. D. B. Stillman, in a trip of one of the Pacific mail-steamers from Panama to this 
place, no acid was discovered south of the Cortes Shoals. 

" I hope in future to be able to make more accurate and extended examinations, unless 
some one more capable of doing justice to the subject should take it iu hand. With this 
view, I solicited the attention of Dr. J. S. Newberry to these facts while he was in this city, 
on his way to join Lieutenant Ives's Colorado Exploring Expedition, hoping he might think it 
worthy of investigation during his stay on this coast. With the same view, I now submit them 
to the Academy." 

APPENDIX (J). 
TITANIFEROUS IRON ORE. 

The above species of ore, I believe, is not found in many localities in abundance. The 
superior value of the iron produced from it will doubtless produce a demand for the ore. The 
following article, as bearing upon the subject, I clip from a December number of the Minijig 
and Scientijic Press of San Francisco ; 

"titanium iron. 

" A valuable discovery is reported in the English papers, which consists of a cheap process 
for smelting titanic iron ore, which has hitherto defied, or greatly perplexed, all ironmasters 
and scientific men in the trade. It is a well-known fact that iron made from titaniferous ore 
is most valuable, on account of its hardness and tensile strength being five times greater than 
ordinary iron ; this iron will be admirably adopted for plating on iron-clads, and also for rails, 
on account of its hardness and strength, and the discoverer will be prepared to test this iron 
against any other iron hitherto discovered for these purposes, or for mailing steel. If the 
discovery is one which can be cheaply introduced, or one by which titanium iron can be manu- 
factured at about the cost of Bessemer steel, it will be a valuable one indeed. 

" A company has recently been formed in England for the manufacture of titanic steel and 
iron after the mode devised by Mr. Mushet, which, we believe, is nearly ready to go into 
operation. We perceive from the London Mining JournaJ, last received, that an extraordinary 
general meeting of this company has been called, to take into consideration the agreement 
entered into by the company with Messrs. Mushet & Clare, with a view to the modification 
thereof. This may possibly have some reference to the new discovery above spoken of. At 
all events, there is good reason to believe that tlie well-known and valuable properties of 
titanium will soon be economically introduced into the manufacture of iron, in such a manner 
as to work a most important improvement in this great agent of civilization and practical 
mechanism." 

* This is tlie well-known " Boras Lake," the property of the " California Borax Company." It is 
being extensively worked at present, aud furnishes large quantities of the best commercial borax known. 



154: SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

APPENDIX (K). 

ERROR IN COAST CHARTS OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 

The chart most in use is that of James Imray and Son, London. The entire coast, from a 
short distance below San Diego to near Cape St. Lucas, is placed some 14 miles too far to the 
west, as is established by numerous careful observations. The little guano island of Elide, in 
the bay of San Sebastian, about a mile from the shore, is in latitude 28" 37' N., and longitude 
114'^ 25' W., as determined by Captain R. N. Dearing. This position would place it far inland 
on Imlay's chart. The peninsula is, therefore, several miles narrower than usually represented 
on the maps, unless a corresponding error exists as to its eastern or gulf coast. As the pearl- 
fishery drew early attention to the gulf, it is probable the prominent points on the shores were 
pretty correctly established by the Spanish navigators. The position of Cape San Lucas waa 
early determined by the Abbe Chappe. 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 155 



EXTRACTS FEOM A HISTORY OF OLD OR LOWER 

CALIFORNIA. 

[A posthumous work, written originally in Spanish, by Padre Francisco Javieb Clavijeeo, of the 
Society of Jesus. Translated into Italian for publication. Venice. 1789. From Italian to Spanish, 
again, by tlie priest Nicolas Garcia, de San Vicente ; Juan K. Navarro, editor. Mexico, 1852. 
Translated from this edition into English, by A. G. Randall, Secretary and Translator of the Lower 
California Company's Exploring Expedition. San Francisco, May, 18G7.] 

From Preface of the Editor. — "The publication of 'Three Ages of Mexico,' by Father 
Cavo, having been conchided in our ' Library,' and being desirous of offering to our sub- 
scribers another national historical work, we could not hesitate in our choice, after seein"- 
the ' History of California,' by the celebrated Vera Cruz Jesuit, Clavijero. 

"The universal fome which this distinguished writer has acquired by his 'Ancient History 
of Mexico,' obviates the necessity of any panegyric on the work which we now offer our sub- 
scribers. It was left unpublished by the author at his death, but was subsequently published 
in Venice in 1789, in two small volumes. The difficulties encountered by Clavijero to have 
his great work published in Spanish, and which finally compelled him to abandon the print- 
ing of it in that tongue, without doubt induced him to also write the History of California 
in Italian ; and we have the satisfaction of being the first to present it, returned to its native 
language. 

" We have had in view two translations from which to select what would serve for our 
test, one of which was made by the clergyman Nicolas Garcia, of San Vicente, well known 
among us by his various elementary works ; the other is by Don Diego Troncoso and Buene- 
cino, also author of an unpublished translation of the ' Ancient History of Mexico.' 

" After a thorough examination of both, vre have given preference to that of Father San 
Vicente, as being generally more exact and of better style. Notwithstanding, a careful 
revision has revealed some errors, inevitable in works of this nature, and we have made the 
necessary corrections, at times making use of happier interpretations of SeQor Troncoso. 
We also avail ourselves of an appendix inserted at the latter part which he added to his 
translation, in which he refers briefly to the progress of California, from the expulsion of the 
Jesuits up to the year 1796. 

" We have not copied the original Italian map, as, being made in Europe, almost from 
memory, after the death of the author, it doen not merit confidence ; instead of which we 
shall give another, more modern, with greater probability of correctness. 

*** * * ***** 

"It only remains for us to express our gratitude to Senor J. M. Andrade, the proprietor of 
the work now oftered to our readers, who generously furnished it, solely for the pleasure of 
contributing to our Library." (Biblioteca.) 

From Notice of the Translator. — "In relation to the map, the Venetian editors observe, 
that it was got up by Don Ramon Tarros, who had the use of the maps of Father Consag, 
and which were published in the ' Notices of California,' making use of the data furnished 
by the author of that work, and some verbal information from missionaries resident in Ven- 
ice. So far as distances are concerned, especially in the interior of the peninsula, they can't 
be considered exact, as they are mostly furnished by persons who, although sincere, judged 
from calculation or guess-work." 

From the Preface of the Author. — "Although 'Old California,' from its discovery, began 
to acquire celebrity for the pearls which abound in the neighboring waters, and, although its 
coasts were scarcely known, and almost nothing of the customs of its inhabitants, no one 
was found during the past two centuries to undertake writing its history. In the present century, 
after the Jesuits had made a reconnoissance of the greater portion of the peninsula, and had 
established numerous missions. Father Miguel Vencgas, a Mexican Jesuit — making use of let- 
ters of the missionaries, and especially of those of Fathers Salvatierra, Piccolo, and Ugarte, 
who were the oldest and most celebrated; of the manuscript history of Sonera, made up by 
the indefatigable Father Kino, from the diary of the Captain-Governor of California, Estevan 
Rodriguez Lorenzo ; of the written accounts of the erudite Father Segismundo Taraval, and 
of other original documents found in the archives of Mexico — wrote in a bulky volume its his- 
tory. The manuscript of Venegas was forwarded to Madrid to Father Andres Marcos Bur- 
riel, an erudite and laborious Jesuit of the province of Toledo, and well known for his work 
on the 'Ancient Weights and Measures' of that citv. He, after having put this history in; 
53 



156 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

better shape, cutting it clown hero, adding to it there with new material, in part sent to 
liim from Mexico, and in part taken from the archives in Madrid, as well as that taken from 
many authors, printed it at that cc'jrt in the year I'ZSY, dedicating it to the Catholic King Fer- 
nando VI., in the name of the Mexican province. Tlie work came to light with the modest 
title of ' Notices of California,' inasmuch as that learned Spaniard did not believe that he 
would have the material necessary for a history; but the English translator, afterward imita- 
ted by the Frenchman and Hollander, gave it for title, 'A Natural and Civil History of Cali- 
fornia,' London, 1759. Notwithstanding, it contained nothing of natural history. Subse- 
quently Padre Jacob Begert, an Italian Jesuit, who was for seventeen years a missionary in 
California, having returned home from that country, wrote in German, and published in 
Munich, in 1*772, a new history of California, of which, although we know it was well received 
there, we can't make use, as it has not reached us. 

"In the Spanish edition, it not only lacks natural history, but also much essential informa- 
tion, and contains many errors, although unblamable. To these the Abbots Miguel del 
Barco and Lucas Ventura, by their diligence, sought to apply a remedy, being practical 
men in California, sincere and very correct. The Abbot del Barco was a missionary there 
for the space of tliirty years, and visited all the missions, and, although not a professional 
naturalist, nor would the important duties of his ministry permit of his dedicating himself 
to the study of nature, still, being of an observing turn of mind, and gifted with a good criti- 
cal judgment, he could observe in the course of so many years, jwid afterward write sufficient 
to give a correct idea of, the soil, climate, productions, and animals of California. The Abbot 
Ventura was also eleven years missionary of Loreto, and solicitor for all the missions, by 
virtue of which he was well informed in relation to all the business of the peninsula. These 
persons corrected the Spanish edition, and added thereto the essay on natural history, and 
the information lacking, continuing the narration up to 1768. 

"Believing that I can i-ender a service to the public, presenting to it a truthful and correct 
history of Cahfornia, I have availed myself of the said writings, omitting from the Spanish 
history every thing which does not directly or indirectly have a bearing on that of said pen- 
insula. Although I have made use of all the knowledge which I have acquired through my 
studies and investigations, and have obtained verbal information from persons who have been 
many years in California, yet, it being very easy for an author to commit errors in writing the 
history of a country where he has not been, I have caused two persons of the most practical 
of that country to revise this work, and my experience has shown that this step has not been 
superfluous." 

Note of A. G. R., present Translator. — Here follows an extended criticism, by said author, 
of all other historians who had written on Mexico and California, in which he iiandles them with- 
out gloves, demonstrating that they had written nothing reliable on tlie subject; this refers 
particularly to Pau, Robertson, Lacroix, and Jose Joaquin de Mora, the last of whom he 
accuses of misspelling nearly all the Mexican names, even that of Javier in the frontisf)iece of 
the work, which was published in London in 1826. 



BOOK FIRST. 

SITUATION-SOIL— CLIMATE— MINERALS— PLANTS, AND ANBIALS OF CALIFORNIA. 

Old or Lower California is a peninsula of Septentrional America, which, being separated 
from the continent of New Spain at the mouth of the Colorado River at 33° N. latitude, and 
202° longitude, terminates at Cape St. Lucas at 22° 24' N. latitude, and 268° longitude.* 

This cape is the southern extremity of the peninsula ; the Colorado River is the eastern 
extremity, and the port of San Diego, situated in 33° N. latitude, and about 256° longitude, 
may be considered the western boundary. To the north and northwest it borders on coun- 
tries of barbarous nations, but little known on the coasts, and not at all in the interior; on 
the west its shores are washed by the Pacific Ocean, and on the east by the Gulf of Califor- 
nia, also called the Red Sea, from the reddish appearance of its waters ; also the Sea of Cortes, 
in honor of the famous conqueror of Mexico, who was the means of its discovery, and navi- 
gated there. The length of the peninsula is 10 degrees ; its width varies from 10 to 20 or 
more leagues. 

The name California was, in the first place, given to one part only, but afterward it was 
extended over tlie whole peninsula ; and some geographers have even taken the liberty to 
comprise under this name New Mexico, the Apache country, and other regions north, very 

* In relation to the geoKrapliical longitude of California, tliero is a variety of opinions among geog- 
raphers. I rely upon the observations made by tlie Spanish astronomer, Vicente Dos, of which mention 
is made in the supplement to tlie Gazeite of Pharo, November 13, 1700, according to winch there is a 
difference of 7 hours an 1 28 minutes between the meridian of Paris and that of San Jose, near Cape 
St. Lucas, from which difference it is deduced that the longitude of San Jose, as well as Cape St. Lucas, 
Which is on the same meridian, is 308°. 



EXPLOEATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 157 

distant from real California, and not connected with it. The et3rmolo<ry of the name is not 
known, Imt it is believed that Cortez, who was versed in Latin, called the port where he 
first arrived, calida fornax, in consequence of the extreme heat, and that this was afterward 
changed into California.* 

The occidental coast, washed by the Pacific, commencing at Cape St. Lucas, extends to 
the northwest, and runs in the same direction above the peninsula, perhaps to the most westerly 
extremity of America. The lands bordering on the sliore of this part of California are as a 
general thing dry, barren, and sandy, unpopulated, and destitute of all the -necessaries of 
life, even wood and water. Besides, there is hardly a port where vessels can find shelter 
from the northwest winds which prevail there. Barks and other small craft cannot make 
the coast without risk of being lost on the rocks, in consequence of the heavy sea prevailing. 
The ports best known on that coast are those of El Marques or Santiago, Magdalena, Afio 
Nuevo, San Juan, Nepomuceno, San Francisco, and San Diego, and, above the peninsula, 
Monterey, in SY" N. latitude. The capes are St. Lucas, which is the most notable, Morro 
Hermoso, Engafio (false cape), Ano Nuevo, and del Rey. The coast up to 40° constantly 
inclines to the northwest ; from here to the 42° it breaks toward the north ; and from 42°, 
where Cape Mendocino is situated, it returns to the first direction. The discoveries made 
by the Spaniards up to the year I'/YO, terminate at Cape Blanco of San Sebastian in latitude 
43°. In this or the following year it is said that they advanced to 55° and even 58° ; but we, 
not having seen any account of these voyages, cannot say any thing in relation to their dis- 
coveries. 

The eastern coast, formed by the gulf, commences at Cape Porfia, distant more than ten 
leagues from Cape St. Lucas, and runs in about the same direction as the other coast. Be- 
tween these two capes is the port of San Bernabe, where ships from the Philippine Islands 
usually put in. The ports on the gulf are Palmas, Cerralvo, La Paz, San Carlos, Loreto, San 
Bruno, Comondu, La Concepcion, Los Angeles, San Luis, La Visitacion, and San Felipe de 
Jesus. Between Cerralvo and La Paz there is a small peninsula, which extends toward the 
north, and another between Comondu and La Concepcion. The capes on this coast, commen- 
cing from the Porfia, are called Cerralvo, San Lorenzo, the Pulpit, San Marcos, the Virgins, 
San Miguel, and Sun Gabriel. From 31° the coast breaks toward the north, and much more 
from the 32°, which direction it follows up to the Colorado River, the terminus of the penin- 
sula and the gulf. 

Coming down from the mouth of this river toward the southeast, the shores of the 
Pineria, Sonora, Ostimuri, Sinaloa, Culiacan, Chiametta, and Acaponeta, are found, all prov- 
inces of New Spain, until you arrive at Cape Corrientes, situated at 20° 26' N. latitude, and 
about 2*70° W. longitude. This cape and that of St. Lucas form the mouth of the gulf, by which 
communication is had with the Pacific Ocean. Following down from Cape Corrientes, in 
the same direction southeasterly along the dioceses of Nueva Galicia, Michoacan, and Mexico, 
you arrive at Acapulco, where ships from the Philippine Islands go to discharge. 

In both of the seas of California there are innumerable islands, but generally they are 
small and uninhabited. The largest in the gulf are Cerralvo, Espiritu Santo, San Jose, Car- 
men, Angel Custodio, and Tiburon ; and in the Pacific are Huamalgua, Cerros, La Ceniza, 
Pajaros, and Santa Catalina, of which something will be said when the opportunity offers. 

§ 2.— SOIL AND CLIMATE. 

The aspect of Lower California, generally speaking, is disagreeable and forbidding, and its 
broken land is extremely rocky and sandy ; it lacks water, and is covered with thorny plants, 
where it is capable of producing vegetation, and, where not, it is covered with heaps of rocks 
and sand. The air is hot and dry, and, on the waters, both sides, pernicious to navigators, 
and when a certain latitude is reached causes a mortal scurvy. 

The whirlwinds which sometimes occur are so furious that they uproot trees and over- 
throw the huts. The rains are so rare that, should two or three showers fall during the year, 
the Californians consider themselves peculiarly blessed. 

Springs are few and scarce. So far as rivers are concerned, there is not one on the whole 
peninsula, although the rivulets of Muloge and San Jose del Cabo were dignified with that name. 
The last runs through San Bernabe, and, after a course of scaut tv/o miles, empties into the 
gulf at 27°. All the rest are brooks or torrents, which, being dry the whole year, when it 
rains contain some water, and their current is so rapid that they turn every thing upside 
down, and carry destruction to the few settlements which exist here. The Colorado, 
although a large river, as it is at its mouth, is separated from the. peninsula by high 

* The famous buccaneer, Drake, called it "New Albion," in honor of his coxmtry ; the padre Soberer, 
German Jesuit, and De Fer, a French geoa;raphei\ called IL Caroline Island, which name was being used 
in the time of Carlos II. King of Spain, when the peninsula was believed to be an island, but these and 
other names were soon forffotten, and that which Cortez gave prevailed. We will add here the opinion 
of the ex-Jesuit, the learned Jose Campoi, as to the name California. He thinks that it is composed of 
the Spanish word " cato," a small bay, and the Latin ■\formx,'''' which signifies cavern, there being near 
Cape St. Lucas, formed in the rocks, a grotto so perfect 'that it seems a work of art. From these circum- 
stances it is very probable Cortez gave the name, half Spanish and half Latin, to that port. There is 
another belief, that it may be derived from the two combined — cala-fomax and cala-y-fornix^ 



;^58 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

mountains, and can scarcely be of any advantage to it. This river wtiich rises in 
unknown parts in tlie north, is greatly augmented by the waters of the Gila, also a 
large river, which empties into it at 35°, from whence it runs southeasterly to the 
34th°, where it resumes its first course south to the mouth, which has a width of nearly 
one league, but is interrupted by three small barren islands, which divide the course of the 
waters. Large vessels cannot approach this portion of the gulf to the mouth of the i-iver on 
account of the shallowness, neither can small vessels pass it, through the strong current and 
the drift-wood which comes down : thus this river cannot be useful to the commerce of Cali- 
fornia, with the people who inhabit its banks. Near the mouth of the river there are two 
lakes, the water of which is of a reddish cast (from which the river takes its name), and has 
caustic properties to that extent that wherever it touches the body it immediately blisters, 
creating a burning sensation, lasting several days. It is probable that this effect is produced 
by a certain bituminous mineral which is found in the bottom of said lakes, noticed by navi- 
gators on lifting their anchors. If the dews were frequent enough they might, as in Peru, 
supply the lack of rain, but they are not. 

Examining particularly the soil of the peninsula, a great difference is found in it. In the 
southern part, from Cape St. Lucas to 24°, it is not so broken, neither are springs about the 
hills so scarce, but the coasts are very arid, and the air along them very hot. The country of 
the Guaicuras, situated between 24° and 26°, is the least mountainous, but at the same time the 
driest and most sterile of all California. That of the Cochimifts, v.'hich from 25° extends in 
part to 33°, is the most broken and rocky; but from 27° up the air is milder. Toward the 
30th° cold commences to be felt and sometimes snow falls ; but the land, although not so broken 
or rocky, is very sterile and dry up to 32°. At the last parallel the natural aspect of the country 
changes ; here can be seen tracts of arable land well watered, and more adorned with vegetation. 

Padre Kino, the celebrated missionary to Sonora, of whom we shall make frequent men- 
tion in this history, having forded the river Colorado between 34° and 35°, found in the 
country to the west of the river beautiful plains with abundance of w^ater, good grass, and a 
luxuriant growth of trees. The same was said of tiie Pacific coast, between 34° and 43°, by 
the Spaniards, who, at the beginning of the last century, made a reconnoissance by order of 
the Catholic king, but, as they are not on the peninsula, it is notour pi-oviuce to treat of them. 

§ 3.— MOUNTAINS, STONE, AND MINERALS. 

The mountains of California form two cordilleras, which extend the whole breadth of the 
peninsula, leaving but little level land : that of the southern part is in the middle, at equal 
distance from the sea on both sides, and stone is so scarce on the mountains that it is found 
necessary to use bricks for building purposes ; that of the northern part is longer than the 
other, and approaches the gulf more than the Pacific, and its mountains are higher and more 
rugged, and so stony that all who see them are struck with wonder, it seeming that, besides 
the universal flood of water, there had been another on the peninsula of stones. Among these 
mountains, at 28°, there is a volcano, to show that this unfortunate countrj' is not exempt 
from this calamity. This volcano was discovered by the missionaries in 1746, but since the 
Spaniards have been there no eruption has occurred, nor earthquake felt. 

From the structure of these mountains it is inferred that the peninsula was formerly 
covered by the waters of the sea. Near Kadakaamang, situated inland at 28", there is a 
mountain of clayey earth, on which, at a perpendicular heiglit of over 200 feet, a stratum of 
marine shells is found which seem clammed into the clay. The thickness of this stratum is 
over two feet, and is situated horizontally about half way up the ascent. At a distance of 
some three leagues from tliis place there are large quantities of oysters found in the moun- 
tains, so disproportionable, that a missionary having taken one home, on weighing it, 
without the cover or the dish, found its weight 23 lbs. Span., very compact, and nearly 18 
inches long, and 9 in width, and 4 in thickness. In California, as in other places, very good 
lime is made from the shells of these oysters. Near Mulege, a place situated at 27° north 
latitude, and near the gulf shore, there is a high mountain of very hard stone, which they 
use for building ; and, whether it is taken from the foot or the top, shells are found embedded, 
even in the inner portions, and cavities are seen which appear as though they had been occu- 
pied by marine bodies which had been consumed by the course of time — this proves that the 
mountain was formed in the sea. Stone of this kind is very common on the whole gulf coast. 
Three leagues from Loreto, a small capital of the peninsula, in a place surrounded by high 
mountains, there is also a hillock formed of shells, and another similar near the mission of 
San Luis, over 10 leagues from the sea. If to these things are added the many vestiges 
which are there foiind of volcanic eruptions, and the numerous islands with which Califor- 
nia is surrounded, it would seem undoubted that great revolutions of Nature had transpired 
there. Besides, it is manifest that the sea has receded on both shores of the peninsula. The 
Jesuit missionaries of Loreto observed that the waters in less than 40 years had receded some 
distance from the shore, and this decrease is more palpable on the west coast, as the whole 
space between tlie sea and the hills is completely covered with beach sand, although some of 
these are distant from the sea 10 leagues. It is certain that Lower California has a greater width 
than formerly, and we can predict with certainty that this width will continue to increase ia 
the future, and perhaps some day that multitude of islands will be united to the peninsula. 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 159 

Among the stones of which the mountains of California are full, there are flint, pumice, 
grindstone, crystals, g3'psum, and others of little account. It is believed that marble 
exists in the northern part, but that has not been ascertained up to the present time. 

Stone crystal is generally found in hexagonal pieces, about the mission of Santa Gertrudes, 
below the 29th parallel. There are large quantities of pumice-stone around the volcano. 
Common gypsum abounds in many places, but on the hill on the island of San Marco, in the 
gulf, near Mulege, a peculiar gypsum, crystallized in transparent pieces, of four or five inches 
in length, about 18 inches in width, and two inches thick, is found, which, when powdered, 
makes a very excellent, fine white. A missionary succeeded in making (vidrieras) show-cases, 
or windows of it, the same as those made of alabaster. In various places in California there 
are numerous quarries of tezontle, a stone highly appreciated in the capital of Mexico, a de- 
scription of which we gave in the ancient history of that kingdom. The inhabitants of said 
peninsula number among their stones the mucara and the rizo, two species of madrepore, 
washed up on the beach by the water of the gulf, and which also make lime. 

In sterile countries, sometimes, the barrenness of the soil is compensated by the richness 
of its minerals, but in California it is not so. Up to the present time no ores have been found, 
except gold and silver, and these in small quantities. In the year 1748 a person in easy 
circumstances,* having enriched himself in the pearl-fishery, commenced to work some 
veins of silver which were discovered in the south, about 23°; this he continued for some years, 
passing from mine to mine without materially increasing his capital. Gold has also been found 
in some of the mountains, but little in one called Rosario, in about 28i°. Mines of silver 
were discovered, but would not pay to work them, from the lack of every thing required at 
that place, including wood and water. There is also in the district of Mulege a mountain of 
reddish clay, which contains gold, according to the opinion of intelligent persons. But let 
this be as it may, one thing is certain : it would not be to the advantage of the Californians to 
have any thing on their peninsula to attract bad people, generally the kind who seek the 
precious metals from the bowels of the earth. 

The other minerals of California entitled to mention are sulphur, vitriol, ochre, and chalk. 
At the margin or brow of the volcano a large quantity of pure sulphur is found, which any 
one can gather without trouble, it being on the surface of the ground ; it also exists at 28° 
on the beach of the Pacific. Places where it is found are known by the color of the ground, 
it being distinct from the rest ; digging here, a little sulphur is found, although mixed with 
earth, but it is probable that it might be found as pure as that of the volcano by going down 
a sufficient depth. 

Vitriol or copperas is found in small crusts, in some of the moist places in the district of 
the mission of Guadalupe, and other places in the north. These crusts are formed, perhaps, 
from the sediment of the water, Avhich is saturated with copperas where it runs through the 
deposits of it. In the same mountain of reddish clay, near Mulege, where gold is supposed to 
exist, numerous veins of yellow ochre have been observed, which was formerly used by the 
Indians for painting their bodies. There is also found in this mountain chalk, or pipe-clay, 
which is a species of ceruse, very white mineral earth, very much like white lead. They use 
it in California for whitening buildings, but, as it makes such a brilliant white as to dazzle the 
sight, they qualify it with glue. In Mexico it is used for polishing silver-ware. 

As regards salts, there are common salt, saltpetre, and gema. California being almost en- 
tirely surrounded by water, there must be good salt-mines (salinas) found, and, in fact, there 
are many ; but there is none to be compared with that of Carman Island, situated in the gulf 
at 26°, abreast of the port of Loreto, from which it is distant four leagues. This island, which 
is 13 leagues in circumference, is all unoccupied, and nothing is supplied there, except rats 
and a large number of serpents. On the west side there is a rugged mountain, but on the 
east side the land is level and contains that salt-mine, which, without fear of contradiction, is 
one of the best in the world ; it commences at a distance of half a league from the sea, and 
extends so far that the end cannot be seen, presenting the spectacle of an immense plain, 
covered with snow. The salt is the whitest, crystallized, and pure, without mixture of earth 
or any foreign substance ; although it is not as hard as stone, picks are required to break it 
up, and in this way they divide it in square cakes of a size that each workman can carry one 
on his back. This work is performed during the morning and late in the afternoon, on ac- 
count of the intense heat, and reflection of the sun's rays. Although all the fleets of Europe 
might gather there to load salt from that deposit, they never could exhaust it, not only on ac- 
count of its great extent, but principally because salt is reproduced as soon as taken out. 
Seven or eight days after taking out a sufficient quantity to load a vessel, the excavation is 
filled with new salt. If this salt-mine were in any country in Europe it would produce enough 
to the sovereign to make the income greater than that of the famous salt-mines of Williska, in 
Poland, in whose horrid depths thousands of slaves are entombed to get out its salt ; but this 
of the gulf only serves to supply the few inhabitants of the peninsula. Yet in the region 
where God placed it, if the industry of the Sinaloa and other parts of the coast could be ex- 
cited, it would be more useful, because, fish there being abundant and excellent (as we shall 

* Don Manuel (le Ocio, formerly a soldier at the Presidio of Loreto, and who, beinpr a licentiate of the 
militia, engaged in the pearl-fishery, and had such cood luck that he became almost the absolute owner 
of this branch of commerce. Tliis has been the only rich man of California. 



IQQ SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

hereafter show), and having all the salt rcquh-ed, without cost, they might make a proiital)le 
business of curing fish for the interior provinces of New Spain. 

Two deposits of rock-salt (sal-genia) have been discovered on the peninsula, one on the 
Pacific coast at 26°, and the other at 28°, on the plain adjacent to the San Ignacio mission. 
The salt taken out of them is similar in whiteness and i)urity to that of Carman Island, but is 
not so smooth and relucent. In the mountain of Rosario tliere is pure nitre, and in various 
places it is found mixed with earth. That called by Mexicans tequizquitl, and by the Span- 
iards of Mexico, tequizquite, is more the froth of nitre, which they use in New Spain, as in 
Egypt, for making lye, for whitening linen, and for cooking vegetables, which, by its use, are 
made more mellow and palatable. 

§ 4.-VBGETABLES AND THEIR DIVISION. 

Perhaps persons who are inclined to natural history will want us, in passing to the vege- 
table kingdom, to classify the plants of California according to some system adopted by modern 
naturalists ; but neither the vegetables of that peninsula are so numerous as to require such 
a method, nor by following it would we do the subject justice, according to ournotions ; there- 
fore we shall adopt the same division as in the History of Mexico, as more suitable for the 
comprehension of all classes of persons. 

§ 5.— NATIVE PLANTS OF CALIFORNIA WHICH ARE USERUL FOR THEIR FRUIT. 

Among the plants useful for their fruit, some are indigenous, and some are exotic. 
Among the first, the pitahaya,* as well for its singular form as because it supplies the miser- 
able Californians with their principal food and the most delicious fruit. There are two species 
of pitahayas, very different from each other, not only because one yields a sweet fruit and the 
other tart, but also because the plants have different forms. 

The pitahaya of the first species is very common in Mexico and other countries of America, 
but in none are they so fine as in California. From its trunk, which scarcely grows a foot high, 
spread out, 10, 12, or more feet high, branches as thick as a man's arm, arranged in rows, 
parallel and straight their whole length, except when they first sprout, where the lateral have 
a curve proportionate to their distance from the centre. These branches have a green bark, 
tinged with yellow, with creases or flutings running their whole length in a straight line, about 
an inch apart, instead of leaves, which they are entirely bare of; they have strong thorns ar- 
ranged in the shape of stars, and are so prickly that no part of them can be touched without 
getting pricked. Under the bark it has a small thickness of green pulp, very juicy, inside of 
v/hich is a wooden tube full of a white pith, which, when dry, burns well, and serves for light 
instead of tapers ; near the ends of the branches there is a very pretty flower-bloom, white, 
tinged with bright red, but without fragrance, and is succeeded by the fruit called pitahayas 
by Spaniards, and tammia, or dammia, by the Cochimies. This fruit is round, of the size of a 
large peach, and also has thorns ; at first it is green, but when it ripens it turns red or yellow — 
that with a red skin has a pulp of a beautiful blood color, and that with yellow skin has a 
pulp wliite, yellow, or golden. The skin is rather thick, but soft and easily removed ; the 
pulp is sweet, pleasant, refreshing, and healthy. It is eaten, together with the seed, of which 
it is full, and something like the seeds of figs, although smaller. The red pitahaya colors the 
urine for which reason strangers, on eating it for the first time, have sometimes become 
alarmed, thinking they had burst a blood-vessel. 

In the southern part of the peninsula they commence gathering the sweet pitahaya in the 
early part of June, and finish at the end of August. In the north they commence later, and 
its greatest abundance is in August ; but when it rains a little more than common, the crop is 
very small or entirely worthless, there being no plant which moisture harms so much as the 
pitahaya. The Californians use in gathering them a pole or a cane, having on the end a thin 
bone in the shape of a hook, to separate the fruit from the plant, and a net to catch them in. 
They now get out the thorns with a little stick, this being easily done, when ripe ; in this way 
they go on gathering and eating until they gorge themselves, taking home any remaining. 
During the harvest they travel all day in the woods and over plains, hunting rijie pitahayas, 
and this is for them, as we shall hereafter refer to, the most joyous season. 

The harvest of the sweet kind being over, they go after the other kind, called tajua by the 
Cochimies, which last through September and October, and years when abundant they last 
into November. The branches of this are also fluted, thorny, and without leaves, but the 
fluting is not so fine, and the thorns larger, thicker, and stronger. They are also straight and 
parallel, with like uniformity as those of tlie sweet kind, but they run in different directions, 
without order or symmetry, and, lying on the ground, take root, forming new plants, which, 
becoming entangled with each other, make a thicket disagreeable to the view and inaccessible 
for animals. This plant is also different from the first in regard to where it grows : the first 
thrives in any place, in the woods or on the plains, where it is arid and dry; the last is not 
found anywhere except on level land near the coast, or if, by chance, it is found in the woods, 

* The French call this plant the thorny candle (cierge epineux), but this name only applies to the first 
kind, as will appear by its description. We say the same of the name, 6rgano, which iu Mexico yields 
abundantly. 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. IGl 

it is sterile. The flower of the tajua is cardial, of v,hite or red color, and six or seven inches 
long ; its fruit, even more highly esteemed than the sweet, is spherical, of the size of an orange, 
also has thorns, and is red inside and out. When it is ripe it has a tart flavor, very agreeable, 
and, like the sweet, turns the urine a blood-color. In Mexico there are tart pitahayas, but of 
inferior flavor to those of California. 

The gkakil, or garambuyo, as the Spaniards call it, is a fruit of another plant, with pulpous 
branches, fluted, without leaves, thorny, and similar in shape to those of the pitahaya, but it 
is smaller, its fluting is wider, and its thorns are smaller and fewer ; the fruit, although similai 
in figure to the pitahaya, is much smaller, of a deeper red, and inferior iu flavor ; it is earlier 
than the pitahaya, and does not last so long. 

The cardon of the peninsula, thus called by Spaniards, is a plant of gigantic proportions, 
among the pulpous and grooved kind ; its trunk is thick and the branches fluted, thorny, and 
without leaves ; they grow straight and parallel, like those of the pitahaya, but higher and 
thicker ; they grow 40 feet high and of a proportionate and uniform thickness the whole length ; 
its structure is similar to that of the branches of the pitahaya ; its bark is of a prettier green, 
and does not have so many thorns. On the extremity of the boughs the fruit grows, which is 
shaped like the pear, with a yellow skin, and inside contains a viscous liquid of a bright-red color, 
some spherical seeds, black, brilliant, and of the size of coriander-seeds. These seeds are 
the only benefit which the Californians derive from this great plant. In order to make them 
eatable, they are are exposed to the heat of the sun and fire, which takes away the viscous 
properties, after which they toast them to preserve them. The missionaries found a way of 
making the branches more useful : they would take a piece of the wood and pound it up, ex- 
press the juice, and, boiling it, at the same time skimming, until boiled down to a certain de- 
gree, make of this a balsam good for wounds and ulcers. 

The viznaga espinosa is another species of pulpous plant, fluted, without leaves, and 
thorny ; what is more singular is, that all the rest of this kind are not only bare of leaves, 
but also of branches, and consist solely of a trunk or stalk, pulpous, juicy, green, very thick, 
and from two to four feet high. Besides the small thorns with which it is covered, it has, 
growing near the top, others very distinct, of an osseous substance, strong, about six inches 
long, of a white and red color, and with a small curve at the end. In New Spain some use 
these thorns for cleaning the teeth,* and in some of the missions of California they were used, 
instead of needles, for making stockings, stiaightening the point and reducing the size of the 
thickest part. Amongst these thorns of the viznaga there grows a beautiful flowei'-blossom, 
of white, red, and yellow color, to which its fruit succeeds, much smaller than that of the tam- 
mia, and full, like the cardon, of viscous liquid, and seeds which the Californians prepare and 
eat, as they do the seeds of it. In Mexico they make a good sweetmeat of the juicy pulp of 
this viznaga. 

The nopal (cochineal fig-tree, or Indian prickly pear-tree), well known in Europe, differs 
somewhat from the plants which we have described, because, although barren of leaves, its 
branches have something the form of leaves, and this is the name vulgarly given to it.f In 
California there are many kinds of nopales, but inferior to those of Mexico in size and quality 
of fruit. Of the last the missionaries carried to the peninsula various kinds, that took root 
and thrived well in that arid soil. Californians eat not only the pulp but also the inner skin 
of the fruit, and here, as well as in Mexico, the tenderest pcncas are eaten, boiled, and stewed. 
The name which the Cochimies give to the fruit of the nopal is simply the letter A (sounded 
ah). It is certainly wonderful that the plants which we have treated, and others which we 
shall reach farther on, should have more juice in arid localities than other kinds in wet places ; 
but it is even more singular that they grow and thrive with only the little or no dews which fall, 
although they may not get rain for ten months or more, as sometimes happens in California. 
I believe that these plants are juicier, because they perspire less, through not having leaves, as 
these, according to the well-founded belief of naturalists, are the principal organs of perspira- 
tion for vegetables, consequently we may well suppose that the Creator did not supply these 
plants with leaves, as He destined them to live in dry countries. 

The ciruelo (plum-tree of California) is very different from the real plum, and only received 
this name from the Spaniards from the resemblance of the fruit. It is of medium height, its 
leaves are dentated; the bark, both of trunk and branches, whitish, and project horizontally 
farther than would seem to comport with the height of the tree. Its fruit, although similar in 
color and shape to the brown plum, is smaller, rough to the taste, and only agreeable to the 
palate of those miserable Indians accustomed to eat every thing which is put before them ; 
but the kernel of the stone is very pleasing to the taste, and is esteemed even by the Span- 
iards. This tree is a native of the southern part, and is not found in any other part of the 
peninsula. 

Anaba is the name of a fruit similar to the fig, and of the tree which produces it. This is 
large, the bark of trunk and branches whitish, like that of the fig, and its fruit similar in 
color and shape to the early fig (breva), but smaller, not so juicy, and without the delicious 
sweet fiavor of our figs. Notwithstanding, the natives are so fond of it that when they hear 

* The Spaniards did not call this plant viznajia, only on account of its thorns being used for toothpicks, 
like the real viznaga ; beyond this tbere is no similarity between them, 
t In Mexico these broad flat branches are generally caUed pencas. 



163 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

of ripe fruit on the anaba-tree they will travel four or five leagues to find it and obtain a 
supply. The wood of this tree is entirely worthless, and its roots are usually wider than they 
are thick, because it generally grows among the rocks, and its roots either get in the cracks 
or extend over the rocks. In Mexico, where it is known by the name of zalate, it grows better 
and is more fruitthl. 

The medesa is a large fruit-tree which does not bear fruit every year, and, on eminences, 
hardly ever ; its bark is of a vdiitish green, its leaves are few and thin, and its fruit similar 
to the bean, growing in small pods. This fruit is much liked by the Indians, who pick it and 
toast it for consumption in winter; cattle relish eating the young branches of this tree, but its 
wood is fit for nothing, except fuel. In Loreto the Indians call it dipna. 

The asigandu is a leguminous shrub which grows near brooks and running streams ; its 
branches are thorny, its fruit a little larger than wheat, and enclosed in narrow pods about 
six inches in length. As this fruit is the first to ripen, and as at this time great scarcity pre- 
vails, the Indians gather it, although really it is not eatable, but they toast it and pound it up 
as they do other seeds. 

Tlie fetor which it throws out when being toasted is very disagreeable, as also is the breath 
of those who eat it, which is insupportable, in that season when they gather in church or any 
close place. 

The huisache (a name taken from the Mexican " huatzaxin ") is a leguminous shi'ub, thorny, 
and has narrow leaves, grows certain pods, which, although not .Jit to eat, are made use of 
both in California and Mexico for making writing-ink, adding a quantity of copperas. Cattle 
cat the tender branches, but it imparts a bad flavor to their meat. 

The jojoba is one of the most excellent fruits of California. The plant which produces it 
is a shrub which grows on the arid brows of mountains where they slope into the valleys, and 
their leaves are short, oblong, smooth, are of a grayish-green color, and about the size of rose- 
leaves. The fruit is a b^rry, oblong, of the size of the kernel of the filbert, dai'k-red outside, 
white inside, and of an oily flavor, not disagreeable. This fruit has become celebrated for its 
medicinal virtues, especially for the cure of suppression of urine, containing pituitous concre- 
tions which facilitate childbirth in females, and is adapted for healing wounds. The oil ex- 
tracted from it is an excellent remedy for cancer, and, having a good tlavor, some used it for 
salads instead of olive-oil. This plant does not yield fruit every year, but only when, in the 
winter, there is one shower at least. 

The pimientilla, thus called from its shape and size, resembles the common pepper; it is 
the seed produced inside of a certain berry, which grows on a small bush, whose stalks are 
similar to the shoots of the wild olive, although smaller. The Indians eat them, but there are 
not many of them. 

When it rains more than common, there is an herb with many stalks which grows in some 
parts of the peninsula, called tedda, which runs up about a foot, and yields ears containing 
small seeds of the size of anise-seed. The Indians gather this, taking care that it docs not 
become dry first, so that the seed may not fall and be lost ; this they toast and grind for food. 

The tedegua is a plant which grows in various places on the peninsula, principally in the 
southern part, when it rains in summer. Its stalk is about three-fourths of an inch thick, 
and its leaves are large, somewhat similar to those of the mall(5w, but furnished, like those of 
the nettle, with little prickles, which sting when touched, causing great heat and raising blisters 
on the skin, for which reason the Spaniards of California call them nettles, although in other 
respects it is very different from the real nettle. The fruit which it produces has a good 
flavor, and is similar to the almond, althoMghnot so wide. 

These are the principal plants useful for their fruits which California produced when her 
inhabitants were all barbarians and savages ; but the same missionaries who civilized them 
introduced, jointly with the Christian religion and good customs, the cultivation of many for- 
eign vegetables better than the native ones of the country. 

§6.— FOREIGN PLANTS. 

All the plants and fruit-trees taken to California from various parts of Mexico have not 
isken root on the peninsula. In the few places where there is no lack of water, and the land 
is suitable for the respective vegetation, the following trees and plants have taken root and 
have grown, viz. : olives, lemons, oranges, peaches, pomegranates, figs, apples, guavas, yellow 
sapotas, gi-ape-vines, water-melons, musk-melons, gourds, palm-trees bearing dates, wheat, 
Indian corn, rice ; and various species of garden or table vegetables, as peas, lentils, beans, 
which products have greatly alleviated the misery and want of those people. Of all these 
plants, none yield so well as the fig and grape. Dried and preserved figs have an exquisite 
flavor, and the wine produced from the few vineyards which exist there is excellent. There 
also were, and even now are, found wild grape-vines, but all of a smaller size than the culti- 
vated, and their bunches only have 8 or 10 grapes of a rough flavor, that never ripen. 

Rice grows well in the southern part, where there is a supply of water, which this plant 
requires. Here and there agnacates are found, and in Loreto some cocoa-palms have done 
well. These people are also supplied with capsicums, tomatoes, and gitomates — three kinds 
of fruits much liked and used among the Americans. It has been observed that the climate 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 163 

of the peninsula is much against the raising of apples, pears, pineapples, chirimoyas and 
other delicate fruits of Mexico. 

So far as wheat goes, there are certainly but few places where it can be raised ; but in 
these, the abundance of the crop is no less surprising than the singular method of culti- 
vation. A piece of arable land is first sought, which is susceptible of irrigation, either from 
a neighboring spring, or by rain-water, kept in some cistern. Before ploughing, it is watered, 
and after ploughing in tlie ordinary way, not with straight furrows, but winding and undulat- 
ing, in order that the water may rest longer and leave greater moisture. The land generally 
being very arid, it is now watered again, and, after letting it air a little, it is planted. To put 
in the seed, two men are employed ; one going ahead, making holes in the ground, rather 
long and shallow. 

The crops of Indian corn are not so abundant, in proportion, as wheat, because it needs 
more water, wliich is very scarce in California, although it ordinarily yields from 200 to 400 
per cent., and when it does not reach 100 per cent., it is considered a poor crop. 

In view of what has been said, it is not strange that, notwithstanding the sparse popula- 
tion and the great multiplication of these grains, it is necessary to depend for a supply from 
Sinaloa, and other States of New Spain ; as the arable lands of the peninsula are limited in 
quantity, water is scarce, and many obstacles have to be overcome in order to raise a crop. 

§ 7.— PLANTS USEFUL FOR THEIR LEAVES AND BRANCHES. 

These are few. Near the streams and cisterns sage abounds ; also rushes, and cstoques, 
•whose sprouts and roots are used as articles of food, and the leaves make mats. When 
it rains, in summer, verdolagas abound, the seeds of which only are eaten by the Indians. 
Mexican wormwood (estafiate) grows plentifully in ground under cultivation, but trefoil grows 
among it and chokes it. The California wild marjoram does not seem like the genuine, except 
a little in color. It is a shrub which grows on dry plains, about four feet high ; its leaves are 
small and of a handsome green, and is used for seasoning food. Tobacco gi-ows spontaneously 
in various parts of the peninsula, and the Indians use it for smoking. The Jesuits carried 
there lettuce, cabbage, and other similar plants, which have thrived wherever cultivated. 

§ 8.— PLANTS USEFUL FOR THEIR TRUNKS OR SHOOTS. 

Of trees which furnish timber for building, etc., or at least for firewood, there are the pine, 
oak, palm, madrono, poplar, guariho, and a few others. Of those whose sprouts or shoots 
serve for food or other useful purposes of life, there are the mescal, batamote, nombo, and 
a few more. The guaribo, the largest tree of California, resembles the poplar so much, that 
at first sight it can't be distinguished from it, but is very different in quality of wood, it being 
good for beams, etc. Unfortunately, it is only found in a few rough places, almost inacces- 
sible, as is the case with the pine in the south. 

The red-palm of the mountains is esteemed there for its strong, hard, reddish wood, but 
it is only about six inches in diameter, so that in order to get out timber from it, the v/hole 
trunk, bark and all, has to be taken ; the bark of this, as of other palms, is of a grayish color. 
Of these, besides the date-palm and cocoa-palm, there ai-e two other species, one of white wood, 
not so hard as the red, and easier worked ; the other has scarcely an inch and a half of solid 
wood, under the bark, inside of which is a soft, light core. Before the Spaniards entered Cali- 
fornia, there were many handsome palm-groves, as the Indians made no use of the tree, but, 
after dealing with the people of Sinaloa, they learned to eat the shoots of the palm, and the 
Spaniards commenced cutting it for building purposes — some of these groves were used up. 
The sprouts are a delicious eatable for the Indians as well as for Spaniards, but at the same 
time an extravagant one, as the trees dry up as soon as cut. 

There are two species of acacia in the peninsula, of different dimensions, both tree and 
fruit. That with bitter fruit is large and a native of California ; that with sweet fruit is smaller 
and foreign — the latter is eaten by the Indians ; and the other, as well as the branches, by 
horses, sheep, and goats. Both kinds bear large pods ; the trunk and limbs are crooked ; their 
wood is very hard and heavy, consequently adapted for knees of vessels — the sprouts, pound- 
ed up and applied to the eye, are considered a preventive against ophthalmia. This tree 
bounds in the narrow plains between the mountains and coast on the gulf. The Spaniards 
call it mesquit. 

The palo chino, so called by the Spaniards, I don't know why, is a tree, native of the 
southern part of the peninsula, large and straight ; its leaves are small and of an ashy green, 
the bark is gray, the wood red, and easily worked ; it loses its color when wet, as also by 
age. In the northern part there is another tree, also called palo chino, which is of white 
wood, easily worked, and has no fruit which is eatable. 

The gkokio, called palo bianco by the Spaniards on account of the color of the bark 
(white), is a tree of medium height, little foliage, and very few branches, and which grows 
near running streams. Its wood is also white at first, but, arriving at a certain age, the inside 
part of the trunk becomes nearly black and hard. Of this the neophytes were in the habit of 
making articles seemingly of ebony, curiously wrought, inlaid with pearl. 

The uiia de gato (eat's-elaw) is a leguminous tree, whose leaves are small and narrow, of a 
light-green color, and bears fruit in its pods. Its branches are bristled up with curved thoi'ns 



164 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

resembling cats'-claws, and it is thus known throughout Mexico. The inner part of the trunk, 
or its pith, also turns black, with yellow streaks, which beautify it, and although the other 
part is hard and heavy, is easily worked ; but if the tree stops growing until a certain age, 
the pith is consumed and the tree becomes hollow. 

The mangrove, although not a large tree, extends its branches horizontally to that extent 
that sometimes they touch the ground ; its leaves are small, and of a pretty light-green — its 
wood is hard, and is used for oars. The mangrove grows near the coast, where the soil is not 
sandy. 

The cork (corcho) is a small tree which grows on level land, at the foot of the mountains, 
where it is commonly found without leaves. Notwithstanding, it produces a buncli of flowers 
of a bright-purple color, very beautiful. Its trunk, when dry, becomes as light and spongy 
as the bark of the cork-tree, whence its name. With this the Indians form their rafts for fish- 
ing, and it answers even better than regular cork for stoppers for bottles, etc. 

The nombo is a shrub with long shoots, straight and flexible, with a whitish bark, and 
generally bare. Only when it rains they are clothed with leaves, wider than they are long; 
but scarcely a month passes, after the rain, when they become bare again. There is no use 
made of this plant in California, but its shoots might be rendered useful for making baskets as 
well as for ink, containing a liquid of a blood-color, that dyes linen so indelibly that no wash- 
ing will erase it. If this liquid were properly prepared, what might it not serve for ? 

There is another shrub (which the author does not recolleckthe name of) similar to the 
norabo in the flexibility of its shoots and the scantiness of its leaves, but more useful to the 
Indians, because they make certain utensils of them which are in common use, and of which we 
shall speak hereafter. 

The batamote shrub grows on the borders of some running streams. Its shoots are 
straight, three or four feet in length, the leaves long and sharp, but very delicate and of a 
very fine green. This plant is efficacious for restoring power to crippled limbs, by bathing in 
a decoction of its sprouts, or by rubbing the joints with the same, roasted, and afterward put- 
ting on a plaster of them. 

In some parts there grows, near running streams, reed-grass, of the thickness of the little 
finger, of which the natives pick the smallest for their dresses, which we shall hereafter speak 
of. This little reed is the only plant in California in which manna is found ; at the present 
time there are large growths of this imported from abroad. 

The plant most esteemed by the natives is the mescal, a plant of the aloe species, similar 
to the maguey, in the manner in which its shoots and flowers grow ; but smaller and more 
thorny, and of an intense green — when allowed to grow, it produces, like the maguey, a 
straight shoot, of the thickness of a man's arm, and from 10 to 15 feet high; in the tops it 
blossoms with yellow flowers, and afterward ))cars fruit. The blossoms are full of a sweet 
but disagreeable liquid, and it is so abundant that the Indians gather it in large quantities as 
an article of food. The mescal which grows to this point is of no further use, except to mul- 
tiply plants of its species, producing them either from the roots or from the seed scattered 
around ; but the Indians do not permit it to grow. As soon as the inside leaves commence 
separating, they cut the stalk, when it is scarcely two feet high, and carry it home. Here 
they make a hole in the ground, in which they kindle a fire, throwing in a few stones, and 
when they are heated, the wood having been consumed, they throw among them cuts of mes- 
cal, then cover them with earth and leave them for from 24 to 36 hours. This mode of cook- 
ing mescal and other viands is called by the natives llatema (in Mexico this style is much in 
use, and called barbacoa). Our barbacue is probably derived from this (A. G. R.), and was in 
use by the barbarous Chichimecafi before they were subjugated by the Spaniards. Mescal, cooked 
in this way, acquires a sweet and agreeable flavor, and was the principal aliment of the Cali- 
fornians from October to April, a period when other wild fruits wliich they were accustomed 
to subsist on were very scarce. This is not the only utility derived from this plant. From 
their prickly leaves they get a kind of thread with which they make a net, that answers as 
a basket or pannier to carry whatever they wish on their backs. Generally the mescal does not 
grow except on the mountains and hills. There are various species — some have a bitter 
juice, and others cause pain in the stomach. A missionary had mescal transplanted here 
from New Galicia, which is larger and better than any other kind in California. In some parts 
of Mexico a spirit is extracted from mescal, which, although at first sight it looks like water, is 
very strong ; some take it to get drunk on, and others use it as a medicine, being considered 
a diuretic, and good for the stomach. 

§9.— PLANTS USEFUL FOR THEIR ROOTS. 

These are very few in California. Those extant prior to the Spaniards going there were 
the guacamote, jicama, and the mezquitillo. 

The guacamote, or sweet yuca, is a plant full of vine-shoots, of a large, thick root, fibrous, 
yellow on the outside and white inside. This root is cooked and eaten, and has a good flavor. 

The jicama is a leguminous plant, also with vine-shoots. Its branches are large and 
slender, its leaves arranged three by three, in form of a cross. The flowers, violet ; the seed 
like lentils, enclosed in black pods, and the root in shape and size of the onion, but in other 
respects resembling the turnip. It is white, juicy, agreeable to the taste, refreshing, and is 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 165 

eaten raw. The jicama is common in Mexico — that of California, although smaller, in the 
opinion of some is better. 

The mezquitillo, or small acacia, is a small tree which has this name, as the form of its 
branches and leaves resembles those of the acacia. Its roots are used in California to dye 
deer-skins cinnamon color. 

The missionaries have carried to the peninsula sweet-potatoes, onions, garlic, radishes, and 
fennel; and all of these plants have flourished. The sweet-potato is an esculent esteemed in 
New Spain, and of which we made mention in the ancient history of Mexico. 

§10.— PLANTS USEFUL FOB THEIE JUICE OR GUM. 

The plants desirable for their rosin or gum, or for their juice or oil, are the copal, brasil, 
pitch-tree, infernal fig-tree, indigo-plant, and sugar-cane. 

The copal is the tree which produces the copal-gum, so well known in Europe. It is found 
all over California, except in stony and sandy localities. 

The brasil, which in other countries is a tree of large growth, is only found in the southern 
part, and is small. 

The pitch-tree is also small, and the trunk is covered with excrescences of pitch, 
which the tree distils, and adheres to the bark in the shape of little balls. The natives make 
use of this to stick their arrows, and also mix it with tallow, to mend their earthen vessels. 
Mariners pay their vessels' bottoms with it, but there is not enough to supply the demand. 
The mode of gathering it is to streak the bark, which operation has to be performed before 
it rains, because, if it rains hard, it carries it off with it. 

The infernal fig-tree contains in its fruit a good article of oil for burning ; it is also useful in 
medicine, being a strong purgative, and even dangerous. 

In some places in the southern part, the indigo-plant is found, but no use is made of it ; 
perhaps, because of its being of little consideration. In the same quarter sugar-cane is raised, 
to the benefit of the Indians ; this was transplanted here by the missionaries. 

§11.— NOXIOUS AND IRREGULAE PLANTS. 

Among the few plants of California there are some which are noxious, one of which is a 
little tree called by the Spaniards of that country pcdo de flecha (arrow-tree), because the 
Indians of the coast of Sonora get from it that terrible poison with which they dip their 
arrows, to render wounds made by them mortal. The native Californians, although they know 
of this property of the plant, have never abused the use of it. 

In the soutliern part there is a plant with vine-shoots, the name of which we do not know, 
whose branches are tender and fibrous, and have a strong, sour flavor. The Indians cut them 
in pieces, three or four palms in length, and cook them in the ashes ; this takes away the 
sourness, after which they eat them. But it seems that this mode of cooking them is not 
sufficient to take away their caustic quality, as they always cause a severe pain in the stomach, 
and in the mouth and throat ulcers, which perhaps cause death. 

The Medra maligna (malignant ivy) is a plant which takes root in the mountains, and ex- 
tends its running vines to the branches of neighboring trees, where they entwine. It well 
deserves the name — malignant — as the bare touch of it will cause swellings, and cover the 
body with sores ; and, although this disease has a simple remedy, it would be fatal if it should 
last long. 

The gingil is a fruit produced by a shrub similar to thQ cherry-tree in color, although 
smaller. The Indians eat it, notwithstanding its bad flavor, as it is produced in March and 
April, when they have no other aliment except mescal. It has been observed that if the 
women eat much of it when they are nursing, their children get sick and sometimes die. 

In various places on the peninsula there is another shrub whose fruit is round, of the size 
of a pea, and when ripe is black. The Indians abstain from eating it, as they know it is 
very noxious ; but as their little ones are ignorant of it, or fear no harm, they eat it when 
hungry. The effect caused is to cripple them after the lapse of a few days, when other dis- 
eases set in, ending in death, for which reason the missionaries have endeavored to have it 
rooted out. Notwithstanding, the Pcricues eat the fruit, without its doing them harm ; they first 
take out the seed, which is said to contain all the bad properties. Here are also other plants, 
curious and irregular, besides the pitahaya, etc., already spoken of. 

The tasajo is a plant resembling the pitahaya in the inner arrangement of its branches, 
which also are bare of leaves and thorny ; although they are not so large and thick, nor of 
one piece, like those of the pitahaya, but each one is composed of various pieces, of about two 
inches in length, and united by certain stems, which separate during a high wind, or any thing 
rudely touching them. These pieces, detached from the bush, keep green for many months, 
although there may not be any moisture in the ground ; and, if rain should fall before they are 
gathered, they take root and form new plants. 

The fruit of the tasajo is similar to the tuna (prickly pear), but never ripens, conse- 
quently is of no use, but on the contrary is a nuisance, as it blocks the roads. _ Only 
in soQie places, where firewood is scarce, its branches answer for burning, as it kindles 
readily, but consumes quickly. 



lOG SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

Similar to this in the structure of the branches, and also without leaves, there is another 
plant called cholla, which only grows about a hand's-breadth high. Its branches are so inter- 
woven that they hide the trunk, and so covered with thorns that its color does not show. The 
pieces of which it is composed, like those of the tasnjo, are smaller, and not so long as the 
little finger. When by accident any one steps on these branches the soles of the shoes are no 
protection against the thorns piercing through, and they are very difficult to extract. 

Much more curious is another tree, called by the Cochimies mUapd, found frequently be- 
tween 29° and 31", and had not been seen by the missionaries prior to the year I'Zol, because 
they had not explored the interior; neither is it, in my judgment, known by naturalists up to 
the present time. It grows perpendicularly to the height of VO feet, its trunk thick in propor- 
tion ; it is not suitable for firewood, being soft and juicy, like the branches of the pitahaya 
and the cardon ; its branches are a kind of slender twig, about 18 inches long, adorned with 
small leaves, with thorns on the ends ; the branches do not grow either upward or horizontally, 
as is generally seen in other trees, but hang downward, like the beard on the face, to the foot 
of the trunk, where they bear little bunches of flowers, but no fruit. This great tree is almost 
useless, as even when dry it is not good to burn, although it is used for that purpose at the 
mission of San Francisco de Borja, where firewood is scarce. 

There is also another small tree, covered with large thorns and almost always without foliage ; 
for which reason the Spaniards called it the Adam-tree ; when it rains, a few small leaves 
appear, but in the course of a month they disappear, and it ren^ains bare all the rest of the 
year. 

Thus the Spaniards call another little tree, iron-wood tree {pah hierro), on account of its 
hardness, it seeming more like iron than wood, and besides is twisted as well in the trunk as 
branches, which are full of thorns, and, growing horizontally, reach the ground ; the hardness 
and tortuosity of this wood make it absolutely useless. Such are the plants worthy of men- 
tion, which the arid soil of California produces. 

§ 12. -INSECTS. 

Passing now to the animal kingdom, commencing with the smallest animate beings, we find 
the ant, spider, centipede {cieu.lo pies, hundred feet), scorpion, cricket, mosquitoes of various 
kinds, the moth, locust, harvest-fly, glowworm, wasp, cockroach, and divers kinds of worms. 
There are no bees, fleas, bed-bugs, or niguas (an insect which lodges between the skin and flesh). 

Among the spiders are found those monsters which in Mexico are improperly called tardn- 
fuliis, but they never have done any harm in California, consequently it is probable that it is 
only on account of their horrible looks that they have been considered poisonous. 

Of mosquitoes there is on the beach at Loreto a species which in some parts of America 
are named gnats, which are so small as to be scarcely visible, but their bite causes an intoler- 
able burning sensation. 

Of the moth there are three species, that which eats into linen clothes, that which eats into 
woollen, and that which nibbles at books. The first is an insect of a whitish color, of the size 
of a louse, but the head very large in proportion to the body, and very active. Those 
of this class live in colonies in little cells which they make in walls, and when they 
eat clothing they make a little pouch, like other kinds of moths. This kind, called comejcii* 
does not eat woollen, only linen clothing. The second and third species are well known in 
Europe. The moth has multiplied but little in California, and it seems that neither species 
is a native of the country, but has been taken there from Mexico. 

There are two species of cockroaches, different in size and color, but similar in figure and 
propensities. Both fly, although rarely; they have double wings, are rapid, nasty, and de- 
structive in storerooms, where they eat and spoil all kinds of edibles which are not hard, 
particularly if they are sweet, entering easily the smallest cracks, from their body being very 
thin. Those of the larger kind are about an inch and a half long and three-quarters of an 
inch broad, and were carried to California in the ships which went to Loreto from New Gali- 
cia where they abound. The others are natives of the peninsula, and are half the size of the 
former, but are more active. Both species have multiplied greatly. 

The wasps of California are, at the least, of three species. The first, which are the largest, 
called by the Mexicans xicotli, are described in our History of Mexico. 

They make a very sweet honey, but their sting is extremely painful. Those of the second 
are what entomologists style Vespce ichneumonldce, which (although they do not live in societies) 
make their cells in the walls of buildings. To make them the wasp takes a little mud, mixes it, 
and plasters it to the wall by means of a glutinous substance which it emits from its mouth, and 
u\ this way goes on until it finishes the work ; when completed it lays an egg, then fills up 
the remaining space with small spiders, which it catches for the purpose, then closes the en- 
trance with mud ; adjoining this it goes on building until four or five are made, ench following 
the same process as in the first. This mud becomes so hardened, and adheres to the wall so, 
that a man cannot pull it off with his fingers. Each one of these eggs, enclosed and fertilized 
by the warmth of the weather, soon produces a grub, which in a few days is converted into a 
chrysalis, and finally into a wasp, subsisting, in the mean time, on the spiders which the 

* Vomixen Is the name which the Indians of the Spanisli island gave to certain insects described by 
Oviedo, which not only eat wood, but also the walls of buildings— hence its origin. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWEK CALIFORNIA. 16 Y 

mother had provided. As soon as the young insects find their win(!;s strong enough, they open 
their cells and go out to fly about, and shortly to repeat the work before performed by the 
mother. In this manner they go on until three or four generations are produced between 
May and October. Wasps of this species neither have a sting nor make honey. The third 
class are of a reddish color, smaller, with a lai-ge sting, which causes inflammation and great 
pain ; and although they do not make honey they make combs, hanging from rocks, where shel- 
tered from rain. The Californians are very fond of the little grub-worms from these combs, 
and sometimes they endanger their lives in gathering them from the cliffs. 

These poor Indians subsist, in like manner, on two other species of worms, about the size 
of the Httle finger, which arc found in certain kinds of plants after it rains. To prepare them 
for eating they take them in one hand and with the other squeeze out all the impurities from 
the inside, then they roast them ; those which they wish to keep they string up. 

On some trees a white worm is found, an inch and a half long, armed with thorns, whose 
touch causes an itching sensation which lasts some hours. 

But the most notable insects of California are the locusts, not only for their formidable 
numbers, but for the damage they cause. As this plague is not frequent in countries inhabit- 
ed by naturalists, sufficient time has not been found by them to write a minute and detailed 
account of these insects ; so I will give here what a sincere and talented missionary observed 
in relation to them, after a I'esidence of 30 years, omitting the description of the anatomv of 
these insects, which has been made by Bomare in a very interesting manner. 

In California there are three species of locusts, similar in form, but distinct in size, in 
color, and even in their mode of living. The first, known m almost all places, is small ; it 
flies and leaps a great distance. The second is larger, and always of a grayish color. Both 
species are scarce, and so scattered that very little notice is taken of them. Those of the 
third species are more noted and feared ; their body is of the size of the little finger ; they have 
double wings like the others, although larger, their color varying according to tlieir condition, 
as will hereafter be shown. 

These locusts, of which all we are about to say refers, are similar to the silk-worm in their 
mode of copulation. They copulate in the summer, and the female lays, the last of July or 
the first of August, some small eggs, long and slender, of a reddish-yellow color ; they are 
joined together by a certain glutinous liquid in such a manner as to look at first sight lik-e 
a silk cord. These are placed in small holes in the ground, which they make with a certain 
appendage that they have in their tail. Each female lays from VO to 80 eggs, and even more. 
Directly the locusts satisfy the desires of nature, they become emaciated and die, not one re- 
maining alive, but they leave in their eggs a very numerous posterity. 

The birth of the new locusts has no fixed time, but depends on the rains, which happen 
earlier or later, but they generally hatch in September or early in October, when, with the 
light rains, some herbs spring up in the country. When first hatched they have no wings, 
their legs are very long, they are about the size of mosquitoes, and are of a dark-gray color. 
Their earliest movement is to jump on the first herbs they find ; when travelling the whole flock 
hatched by the same mother keep together. After having consumed the leaves of one plant, 
they pass on to another, and gradually they become of a lighter color, and commence copulating 
in different families. When they are about half grown they shed their skin like snakes, and 
become perfectly green, and as at this time their legs have become strongsr, they travel with 
longer leaps, forming numerous armies, and desolating the country wherever they pass 
through. In a few days they shed their coat again, and then display their four wings, which 
had been confined beneath it, and change from a greeii color to dark-gray. At the age of three 
months they arrive at maturity, and again change their color from gray to red, with black 
spots, which, notwithstanding their unfortunate shape, gives them some beauty. This color 
lasts until summer, when it turns yellow and lasts until death. Their whole life is ten months, 
in which time they shed their coat twice and change color five times. 

Toward the beginning of January, when they have attained their growth, and their wings 
get strong, they fly like birds, and commence the work of desolation in all parts. Their flying 
armies are so numerous that they cloud the sky, shutting out the light of the sun and darken 
the atmosphere. They unite in masses of 10,000 to 12,000, always following their leaders, 
flying in a straight course, sometimes swerving a little to the right or left, but never retrogra- 
ding, and there is no power in the world to compel them to. Wherever the guides wish to halt, 
the whole army stops ; if this happens to be in a wood, they occupy the same space as they did in 
the air, observing the same order and same distances ; but if they alight on a growing crop, as 
they all want to eat, they contract and occupy a smaller space. 

They digest very quickly, and for this reason devour much more than you would believe 
from their size. When they attack a wood, field, or crop, they do nothing but devour and 
evacuate, thus in a moment they destroy everything within tlieir reach; even should they 
leave any thing, it is not long before it is entirely consumed by a new army, they are so 
abundant, although one is sufficient to desolate many places. These locusts neither eat nor fly at 
night ; but they rest, piling up one on top of another in such numbers that, notwithstanding their 
diminutive size, their weight bends the branches of trees, and sometimes they break them down. 
This is a deplorable plague in fertile countries, and much more so in that miserable pen- 
insula, where the fields and woods become desolated, the herbs consumed, trees stripped of 



1(58 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

their foliage, and sometimes their bark taken off; hence arises mortality among the cattle for 
lack of pasturage, .and hunger and sickness among the people, because whole multitudes of 
these voracious insects dying at one time Infest the air with their corruption. 

There are some plants which are respected by the locusts, such as melons and watermelons, 
on account of the roughness of their leaves. PUahayas are naturally defended by their thorns, 
but their flowers, if they have any, are attacked by these insects, as also the fruit when it 
ripens and foils. Of the mescal they only eat the ends of the leaves, without touching the 
stalk, which serves the Indians for food. 

If California were more populated, the inhabitants might check these destructive insects 
and prevent their ravages, either by destroying their eggs or killing them before they have 
wings, particularly if every year some hundreds of men would scatter themselves among the 
mountains in the south at a certain season, this being the real home of these pests. So far as 
smoking them, shouting at them, or any other course ordinarly pursued, is concerned, they are 
ineffectual in stopping their ravages. In the winter, locusts being in a torpid state from the cold, 
and not being able to fly in the morning until warmed up by the sun, the Indians come and shake 
the branches of the trees, causing them to fall to the ground, and then kill many of them by 
stamping on them. A missionary having offered a bounty to any one of the neophytes who 
would bring him a certain quantity of locusts, they gathered 70 to 80 bags full daily ; but no 
matter how many were killed, it did no good, in consequence of their infinite numbers.* 
Notwithstanding, a small crop may be freed from a great part of the damage if many are oc- 
cupied in driving them away all the time when the insects are passing. 

From the year 1697, in which the Jesuits commenced the work of converting the Califor- 
nians, there were no locusts in that country until 1722, when they appeared, disappearing 
shortly afterward, and reappearing in 1746, and in the three years following without interrup- 
tion, after which they did not return until 1753-54, and finally in 1765-'66-'67. This unfortu- 
nate peninsula could never recover its losses if the increase of locusts were not checked by 
various causes. Frequently their eggs do not hatch, drying up for lack of rain, and the birds 
eat large quantities of them. Besides which, an incredible number die in the spring of the 
year, caused by certain little worms which breed in their bellies and devour them; and for this 
reason, in other years than those referred to, they have not existed, or at least have not been 
in sufficient numbers to cause any sei'ious damage. 

Formerly the Californians were in the habit of frequently eating locusts, toasted and pul- 
verized, after having removed the contents of their bellies ; but the good counsels of the 
missionaries and the experience acquired in 1722, when after eating them to excess they were 
attacked by a violent sickness, have caused the most of them to stop eating them. Notwith- 
standing, some continue to eat them, considering it a pity not to do so, they being abundant 
and other food scarce. 

§ 13.-REPTILES. 

In California there are but few species of reptiles, viz., lizards, frogs, toads, turtles, and 
snakes. Among the species of lizards we do not know of any which are venomous ; the frogs 
are very rare, and toads are plentiful when it rains, but disappear altogether when the land 
becomes dry again. Among the turtles, besides the common land-turtle, and those of fresh 
water, there are two other species of large marine turtles, one of which is that with a shell, 
called tortoise. The Californians catch them easily by jumping overboard and sv/imming after 
them. When they lay hold of them, they turn them over so that they cannot move, then push 
them along until they reach their boat or raft again, when they throw them aboard ; but it 
requires caution in taking them, as they bite very hard. 

Of snakes there are two kinds, those with rattles and those without ; the last are smaller 
than the other, but their poison is more active. 

At the end of this volume we will give some particulars of the observations and dangerous 
experiments made with snakes by an intelligent missionary. 

§ 14.— FISHES. 

Passing to aquatic animals whose peculiarities resemble those of reptiles, we find in the 
waters of California among the cetacasa, whales, dolphins, sharks, sword-fish, and sea (seal) 
calves. Among the real veritable fishes there are found the pampano, two species (resembling 
bream), pargo, also two species of palometas, vobalos, skate, halibut, flying-fish, saw-fish, gilt- 
poll, bagres, sun-fish, prawn, curvina, herrings, sardines, manta, doree, sole, dog-fish, plaice, 
pike, needle-fish, seal, horse-mackerel, cornudas, morenas, puercos, shad, snoring-fish, picudos, 
botelos, cinpas, bouitos, esparallones, and many others. Of the cetacaea, there are lobsters and 
various species of crabs. Of the testacaea or shell-fish there are the muscle, murices, mother 
of pearl, and many other species of snails, oysters, etc. Finally, there are also different kinds 

* In order to form some idea of the prodigious increase of locusts, see the account given by Bomare of 
those in the territorv of Aries, Bocaria, and Tarascon, in the year 1613. of which a large portion having 
been devoured by starlings, those which survived laid so many eg^s that the country people, stimulated 
by the t^overnmcnt, gathered over three thousand quintals, part of which were buried and part throwTi 
into the Rodano ; having calculated the number of locusts hatched from them in the following year it was 
found to be rising 550,000,000. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 169 

of zoophytes, corals, milepores, and cuttle-fishes. Some of the list above given of aquutic living 
things are very well known by Europeans ; others have been described in our History of 
Mexico, or in other histories of America, consequently we will only touch now on how knowl- 
edge of this branch of natural history may be improved upon. 

The large number of whales which have been observed by navigators in the narrow space 
between the mainland and the island " del Angel Custodio " (probably what is now called Mar- 
garita Island, A. G. R.), gave origin to its being called Whale Strait (C«)i«^ de las Ballcnas), but 
as no fish have been taken, we do not know to what species they belong ; notwithstanding 
what is said of them, I believe they are of the species called by Linneeus physalus. 

The sword-fish of California seems to be the same that Pliny called xiphias or gladius,* at 
the least no other can be found which answers to the description of that given by this 
ancient naturalist. A few years ago one of these fishes inserted his sword in the sides of a 
launch, anchored in the port of Loreto, and in trying to get it out in vain, although he nearly 
capsized the vessel, broke it off, and retired crestfallen, without his arm. 

The palometa, as we have already said in the History of Mexico, is a most delicate fish, of 
fine flavor ; it is well known for its four or five blue stripes which it has crossing its back, 
from which the natives give it the name of cozamalomichiu, or rainbow-fish. Doctor Her- 
nandez thinks it is the glaucus of the ancients. 

The doree is thus named, because in the water he seems to be all gold ; he is very differ- 
ent from the doree of the Mediterranean. That of California is larger, more delicate, and the 
meat has a superior flavor. It is very common in Mexican waters, and well known for the fury 
with which it pursues the flying-fish. 

The bagre of California and Mexico, very distinct from that which Linnfeus gave the name 
to, and classified among the sheat-fish, is without scales, with two large hairs pendent from the 
under lip, the tail split, and has six fins, among which is one large dorsal fin, two on the breast, 
two under the belly, and one near the tail. The back is black, and the belly white, with 
straight lines which separate the colors. Its meat is white and delicate ; the length of the 
body is from one to three feet. 

The puerco marino of California is like that of the Mexican waters, is also different from 
those which Linnaeus, Bomare, and others describe. The Californian is thin in figure, and almost 
cylindrical in form, the tail is moon-shaped, with round head, contracted on the back. It has 
two long fins, which reach from the centre of the body to the tail. Its meat is healthy and 
agreeable. 

In California waters, as in the seas and rivers of Mexico, there are two species of sparus, 
called moharras in that country, for the reason that in its figure it resembles somewhat certain 
daggers of the same name. The white moharra, which in the ancient language of Mexico is 
called papalomichin, or butterfly-fish, is broad, about 11 inches long, scaly, thorn}', and good 
eating. Its tail is lunated, has seven fins, two near the gills, two on the belly, one near the 
tail, another small one on the back, and another which extends from head to tail. The black 
moharra, which, in the same language is called cacalomichin, signifying curved fish, is black 
all over, is twice as large as the other, with a curly tail ; it has six fins, two at the gills, two 
under the belly, a large one on the back, and a small one near the tail. Its upper part is 
covered with scales, and is thorny ; its meat, like the white kind, is delicious. 

The roncador (snorer), thus named, as when out of water he snores as if asleep. Dr. Her- 
nandez is of the opinion that this is the exocoetus of Pliny ; at the least, what he says about it 
applies more to the roncador than to the flying-fish, which Linnfeus and Bomare give the name 
exoccetus to. 

The manta, a formidable creature, mentioned in the History of Mexico, may be considered 
as a species of sun-fish, and it seems to me it was what Father Labat called the prodigious 
sun-fish, and originated in the island of Guadalupe, in the West Indies. Its breadth was 12 
feet ; its length from snout to root of tail, nine and a half feet, and its thickness iu the middle 
of the body, two feet ; its tail was 15 feet long, and its skin thicker than that of an ox ; it had 
sharp bones like claws. 

In the Gulf of California the ojon has been caught. This singular flat-fish, which we de- 
scribed in the History of Mexico, has in the middle of the highest part of the back an 
eye of the size as that of an ox. This fish should, with more propriety, be called boeps (ox- 
eye), than that which Linnajus designates by this name in the genus sparus. 

The fish called mulier,| deserves special mention, found on the Pacific coast, and thus 
named for its resemblance, from the middle up, to a woman. It has the breasts, neck, and 
eyes, very white, and the rest of the body covered with scales as other fishes, the tail split. 

* Xiphiam id est GlacUum rostro mucronato esse; ahhoc, naves perfossas mergi inOceano, etc.—'PWnj, 
JIisto7\ Natur., lib. 32, c. 2. Bomare gives this name to the king'-flsh of the Greenland seaa. but this does 
not have his sword in the manrlihulum superior, like the sword-fish, but in the rear or posterior part of the 
body ; neither is it naked as the otlier is, but is carried in a sheath, consequently less likely to wound. 
The same author adds that the king-fish seems to use his sword more to steer with and to increase his 
extreme speed, than for a weapon of ofl'ence or defence. 

t M. dela Harpe (Comp. of the History of Voyages) makes mention of a fish of this name, and also 
of the name donyon, found in the Philippine waters, which is said to be similar to woman In its breasts 
and sex, and its meat is like pork. At the mouth of the Loire there is another called the same. (M. de 
Boniar, vide Mulier.) 



170 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

The missionary, Father Arnes, at the tune of foundhig the last mission of Santa Maria, saw a 
man who had been killed by one of this species, on the beach of the above-named coast, but 
as it was in a state of decay, lie could not ascertain how it happened. The length of those 
which we have any account of does not exceed two hand-breadths, and of a corresponding 
width. 

On the Pacific coast from 27^ to 31° there is an incredible number of univalve shells, 
which are considered the most beautiful in the world — they are tinged by a rich, lapis-lazuli 
color, with a white (plated) silvery ground, with five small holes in one side. 

There are also two particular species of shell-fish, which we can call pulpareos, as they 
participate of the nature of shells; and the polypus, that is to say, if they are not of that kind 
which modern naturalists call ceratofiti. These have the name hachas, being similar in 
shape to the wood-cutter's axe ; they are bivalve shells, having many branches, by which 
they adhere so firmly to the bottom that a man cannot take them off witliout fii'St digging 
around them. Tliey are found under the sand on the gulf coast, but always on tlie level with 
the sea. 

Those called burros are also bivalves, and are provided with branches, but more slender 
and much more numerous, with which they stick so fast to the bottom that it is impossible to 
gather them without the aid of some iron instrument. It is said that divers employed in 
the pearl fisheries incur risk of being caught by these creatures when on the bottom of the sea, 
as they are liable to get their feet caught when the fish has its shell open, which it suddenly 
closes, thus fastening him so that he cannot rise to the surface to breathe. Div^ers have three 
terrible kinds of foes, the burros, sharks, and mantas, but all these drawbacks are overcome 
by the aid of lucre. 

Although the shell-fish of California are highly esteemed, no one up to the present time 
has devoted attention to gathering them for their pui'pura fmurex?)* as pearls have engrossed 
all the interest of parties engaged in the fisheries. The abundance of these which have given 
so much celebrity to the peninsula, outside of which it is so miserable and poor, have been 
found in the gulf near the east coast and adjacent islands. Those taken, from Cape St. Lucas 
to 2*7°, are generally white and clear, or, as dealers term it, orient. Those found north of this 
parallel are commonly discolored, consequently not so much in demand. 

§ 15. — BIRDS. 

We have but little to say of the birds of California ; although there are many different 
species, they are most all known in Europe, in consequence of the historians of America hav- 
ing written extensively in relation to them, and also as they are common to both continents. 
Of birds of rapine there are the vulture, hawk, crow, eagle, and buzzard. The last is very 
abundant, but eagles are scarce and only found in the mountains in the south. There are also 
many zopilotcs (a species of buzzard), a bird which ^ye described in our History of Mexico, 
and which, although not properly a bird of rapine, approximates to that kind. Of noc- 
turnal birds there are several different species of owls, cuckoos, and others whose names and 
peculiarities are not known to us. Of the aquatic, as well those that live in the water as those 
that frequent it for food, there are many different kinds. The best known are ducks of vari- 
ous kinds, geese, pelicans, herons, fulicas, and tijei'as (scissors). The last are called thus be- 
cause, when flying, they form with their feet and wings a figure resembling a pair of scissors 
when opened. What we said in the History of Mexico — in relation to the admirable providence 
vi'hich guides the pelican in its efforts to sustain its species, which are incapacitated to sustain 
themselves, and the industry of the natives in taking this bird — has been noticed by many 
Spaniards in the island of San Roque, a short distance from the west coast of California. Of 
birds which are sought after for the table, there are turtle-doves, wild pigeons, and partridges, 
quails in abundance, besides many aquatic species. The missionaries carried there from New 
Spain, hens and chickens, turkeys, and tame pigeons. Among the birds of song there are the 
nightingale, although few, the mocking-bird, bunting, sparrow, tigrillo, cardinal-bird, and 
others, which, with their sweet and harmonious song, somewhat alleviate the tediousness of 
travel through that arid, gloomy region. 

Finally, there are various birds which are esteemed for their plumage ; among others, be- 
sides the cardinal-bird, there is a colibri (a species of humming-bird). 

§ 16. — QUADRUPEDS. 

The species of quadrupeds of California are, as far as known, only 26, viz., oxen, horses, 
asses, sheep, goats, hogs, cats, and dogs, all conveyed thither from New Spain, by the energy 
and attention of the missionary Jesuits.; lions, wild-cats, stags, tajes, antelopes, coyotes, foxes, 
hares, rabbits, otters, badgers, skunks, squirrels, tuzas, Swiss squirrels, ardillas pahnistas, and 
rats of two kinds. To these 26 kinds should be added that of a wild kind, similar in nature 
and color to the American lion, although not so bulky, and is improperly named by the Span- 
iards of California onza (ounce or lynx). 

* By A. G. R. Here, for a full and reliable account of pearl-fisheries, see pamphlet, " Historical Out- 
line of Lower Calilornia," p. 14— a translation made by nic for 0. D. Poston, Esq., who at the time 
was interested in a coraiiany in New York, who proposed to enter the business on a large scale, with 
modern improvements. That account is preferable to any which has come to my notice. 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 171 

The mountain-cat is larger, stronger, and fiercer, than the domesticated, and has a shorter 
tail. It is very daring, and sometimes attacks animals larger than itself, and even men, when 
they travel in obscure places, but this species is not numerous. 

Not so, however, with regard to the chimbica, or Californian lion, because, not daring to 
kill it, the natives, through fear of a popular superstition which existed before they were 
Christianized, permitted it to continue multiplying, greatly to the detriment of the missions 
which v/ere subsequently founded, making such ravages on cattle, and perhajis on human 
beings, that it was noticed particularly by the Jesuits in the later years of their occupation, 
when a number of tragic events occurred. They, after inducing their neophytes to overcome 
their ignorant and silly fears, as we will hereafter refer to, encouraged the destroying of this 
animal by giving them a bounty of a bull for each chimbica that they killed, which custom 
prevailed always after, during the time that they had control of the missions. The chimbica 
is of the size of a large mastiff, has huge claws, and is of the same color of the African lion, 
but has no mane. As soon as he attacks any animal he fastens his hoW so strongly that he does 
not let go, although mortally wounded. As soon as possible he cuts into its throat with its 
teeth, drinks the blood, devours the neck, and covers the rest with dry leaves, to return from 
time to time to eat when hungrj', but he seldom preserves it, as hungry Indians or the buz- 
zards generally prey on it. When the Indians observe these birds hovering in flocks around 
a place they infer that there is the carcass of some dead animal near, and directly proceed 
to the spot, and if the meat is not entirely putrefied, they carry it home or make a fire there 
and roast it. Notwithstanding the chimbica is so daring, he runs from dogs, and, when 
closely pursued, jumps up a tree and looks with savage fierceness on his pursuers, but with- 
out daring to get down until they are gone ; this is the best time to shoot them. Tiiis animal 
is the same as the miztli of the Mexicans, the pagi of the Chilians, and the puma of Peru, 
although it seems different in some respects. 

The coyote is the quadruped that we described in the History of Mexico, and is a cross 
between the wolf and fox, combining the cunning of the latter with the voracity of the 
former. 

The stag of California is only distinguished from the common European stag by its horns 
not being erect, but inclining to the back. 

The antelope or chamois is larger, more active, and swifter than the goat. Animals of 
this kind go in herds or droves, leaping over the rocks with singular dexterity ; some are black 
and some white ; their skin is appreciated, and their meat good to eat. 

The taje of California is the ibex of Pliny, and the bouquetin of Buifon. What Pliny 
says of the ibex (see Pliny's Natural History, lib. viii., c. 53), the natives tell of the taje, 
without having either read or heard mention made of that naturalist, which proves the de- 
scription of Pliny, and the particular identity of these animals to be correct. In form, color, 
and size, the taje is the same as the bouquetin, and its meat is eatable. 

The American skunk, called by so many different names in different parts of the New 
World, is called by the Cochimies iiju. At the present time it is well known in Europe, but 
as some missionaries of California improved the opportunity to frequently observe it in its 
natural state, we can give a fuller account of it. California skunks are of that kind of small 
animal which the Mexicans call conepatl. The size of its body, independent of the tail, does 
not exceed eight inches in length ; its head is also small ; its color on its belly and feet is white ; 
its back, sides, and tail, black and white stripes, in some cases white and hon-colored. Its 
tail has a handsome fringe at the end, which has a fine appearance when erect, running. It 
subsists on beetles, centipedes, and other insects, but prefers to any thing blood and hen's 
eggs, and for this reason are the scourge of hen-houses. They make their raids at night, en- 
tering by cracks or holes not so wide as their bodies; the hens make a great disturbance 
when they get in on them, but do not move from their places ; the skunk then kills one or two 
of them, sucks their blood, and eats some of their flesh. They live in little holes among the 
rocks, and rarely show themselves except in autumn or the beginning of winter. 

Dr. Hernandez says in his Natural History of Mexico that the dung and urine of skunks 
have an intolerable smell, and this is generally believed, but by observations made in Califor- 
nia it appears that they have never used either against their persecutors, no signs of the same 
ever having been seen. The weapon they constantly make use of when in danger is the dis- 
charge from behind of that insupportable odor which so perceptibly condenses the air in the 
vicinity, that, as a serious missionary expresses it, it seems as though it can be felt by the 
touch. Every thing in the vicinity becomes infected in such a manner that, although exposed: 
to the fresh air, the offensive smell is retained for a long time, and even is transmitted a great 
distance. Dogs which have followed skunks become stupefied with the smell, which they 
show, by their vain efforts to get free of it, by scratching their noses. 

In the History of Mexico we described that curious quadruped called by Buffon suizo,.. 
and by the Mexicans tlalmototli, or ground squirrel, in contradistinction to the squirrel which 
inhabits trees. This kind burrows in the ground, and does great damage to growing crops. 

The same damage is made by tuzas, quadrupeds of the mole species, but larger, handsomer,. 

with different eyes from the mole, as well as a difference in other particulars, as we stated in. 

our history referred to. Another quadruped is common in California, which is similar in form 

to the squirrel, although smaller, ts size being about that of a common rat, but twice as long ; its. 

54 



172 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

tail is bare, like that of the squirrel, and its back striped black and white : this is certainly the 
palmista of Bufifon, and the sicurus palmarum of Linnaeus. 

The rat of California, although similar in form, color, size, and mode of living, to the com- 
mon rat, is nevertheless of a very different species from the common or any other known by 
naturalists. It has under each ear a membrane, forming a kind of bag or pouch, wliich com- 
municates with the mouth, and by this means it gathers what food it can to carry to its store- 
house, and the damage which they cause in granaries is greater than would be supposed 
from their size. When their pouches are empty they are scarcely visible, but if one is killed, 
and air is blown into the mouth, their poucli becomes inflated, as though it had a pigeon's 
egg in it, and the boys derive a great deal of fun from the ridiculous figure it makes.* 

Although the climate of California is not prejudicial to animals taken there from New 
Spain, the scarcity of food and abundance of lions retard their increase. Pasturage being 
poor, horses, cows, sheep, and goats, naturally scatter, seeking food in out-of-the-way places 
where they find herbs or shrubbery of any kind ; consequently, being out of sight of their 
keepers, they fall an easy prey to the lions, who kill their colts and calves, and even at times 
the mares and cows, and commit great ravages on sheep and goats. For this reason it has 
been necessary every year to bring the stock required for the presidio. Dogs only seem to 
have degenerated in California, as they do not appear to have the same liking for their mas- 
ters, soon leaving them for new ones, but perhaps their poverty is what obliges these hungry 
animals to seek their subsistence in other places. 

EXTRACTS FEOM "HISTORIA DE LA BAJA CALIFORNIA "—DECRETO DE MARZO. 

Governors of Lower California during their Colonial Condition. 
1697 to 1699 Luis de Torres y Tortolero. 
1699 " 1701 Anto. Garcia de Mendoza. 
1701 " 1744 Estevan Rodriguez Lorenzo. 
1744 " 1750 Bernardo Rodriguez Lorenzo. 
1750 " 1768 Fernando Xr. de Rivera y Mon- 

cada. 
1768 " 1771 Caspar de Portala. 



1771 to 1776 Felipe Neve. 

1776 " 1777 F. Xr. de Rivera y Moncada. 

1777 " 1790 Joaquin Canete. 

1790 " 1804 Jose Joaquin deArillaga. 

1804 " 1814 Felipe de Goicoechea. 

1814 " 1815 Fernando de la Toba. 

1815 " 1822 Jose Dario Arguello. 



The whole cost of Lower Cahfornia, from the first expedition of Cortez (1536) to 1857, as 
per detail in the work referred to, $5,622,895. 

At the last date, Lassepas, author of the above work, estimates the total value of every thing 
in Lower California, real and personal, at $1,369,270. 

The contract made between the house of Jecker, Torre y Ca. and the Mexican Govern- 
ment was concluded August 14, 1856. 

J., T. & Co. were to survey and map all public lands and make a scientific report as to 
climate, soil, agricultural and commercial resources, etc., within 30 months from date of con- 
tract, and receive, in compensation for the service, one-third of all the public land which 
might be found. 

California discovered by Cortez, 1534. Salvatierra, priest and missionary, landed at San 
Bruno, north of Loreto, 1697 ; his government lasted 70 years, until 1768, when the Jesuits 
were expelled. 

Commenced working mines in the south, 1746. Colonization law, August 18, 1824. Reg- 
ulations, November 21, 1828. 

* The two species of mole and rat may be added to the 53 others of American quadrupeds named in 
the catalogue found in our Ilistory of Mexico, vol. iv. 



EXPLOKATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 1^3 



KEPOKT OK FRUIT-TEEES OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 

Sax Francisco, December 9, 1867. 
J. F. Johnson, Esq., 

Dear Sir : At your suggestion I address you in relation to those lands on the peninsula 
of Lower California in which you are interested as a stockholder in the Lower California 
Company. 

First, let me say to you that I have lived nearly three years at La Paz, Lower California, 
as " United States Commercial Agent," during the administration of President Pierce, having 
gone there with the express purpose of purchasing a grant of the peninsula in connection with 
other parties ; but, unfortunately for our plans, Comonfort was just then expelled, and our 
effort was unsuccessful. , 

By reference to the oflSce of the Secretary of State at Washington, you can see my last 
report to Mr. Marcy! Of course, while on the peninsula, I made the climate, soil, and produc- 
tions my study, and few, if any, are as well advised with regard to your lands as myself. 

I am a surveyor and civil engineer, and have had several years' experience in the public land 
surveys of Michigan and Wisconsin, previous to coming to this coast. I have been here 
twenty-one years, engaged in public and private land surveys in the southern counties of 
this State and Lower California. 

Throughout your territory are valleys, plains, table-lands, and tracts on the mountains, 
that are first-class agricultural lands. Water is found in many places on the surface, and al- 
most everywhere by digging a moderate depth, or by artesian boring, in much larger quantities 
than superficial observers or persons not well acquainted with the country and climate would 
suppose. 

By artesian wells, or broad wells or pits, lifting the water by windmills, a large breadth of 
the country can be cultivated in tropical and semi-tropical productions, as well as the wheat 
and corn of a more northern climate. 

The climate of the peninsula is undoubtedly one of the healthiest in the world, and, for 
persons of consumptive habit, without a parallel. This fact is getting to be more and more 
known on this coast; and were the facilities for purchasing lands such as to afford encourage- 
ment, numbers from the population of this coast would go there to make their homes. 

The first requisite with the Anglo-Saxon is a good title, and the second to be able to see 
the boundaries on the ground of the land you propose to sell to him. 

TJie peninsula of Lower California can he made the garden-spot of the world. — Among the 
numerous products are the olive-tree — 100 trees to the acre, begins to bear at three years, 
giving one gallon of olives ; at six years gives 16 gallons of fruit; four gallons of fruit make 
one gallon of table-oil. From the residuum Castile soap is made. 

The almond-tree — 200 trees to the acre — begins bearing at three years, and at seven years 
giving 80 pounds of nuts. ' - 

The date-tree — 100 trees to the acre — two varieties. The black gives the best fruit, yield« 
ing 300 pounds to the tree. The yellow gives 600 pounds to the tree. 

The tamarind-tree — 200 trees to the acre. This tree does not produce as prolifically 
here as in the AVest Indian Islands ; but the fruit has an aroma and quality unknown elsewhere 
to commerce, giving it a far superior value. The yield per acre not known. 

The lime-tree, the lemon-tree, and the orange-tree, produce abundantly. 

The banana commences to bear at two years, and gives first-class fruit. 

The pomegranate — 200 trees to the acre — at 10 years will give over five hundred pounds 
of fruit to the tree, and for its medicinal properties will soon be in great demand. 

The guayaba — 200 trees to the acre — begins to bear at three years, gives four hundred 
pounds of fruit to the tree. 

All other kinds of tropical fruits grow to great perfection. 

The sugar-cane, first quality — Indian corn, three crops on the same piece of land in 
one year. There is a variety of cactus growing generally over the country, which, judging 
from some crude experiments made, will make the best quality of paper, and in unlimited 
quantities. Also a kind from the root of which a liquor is distiUed, and having a fibre very 
similar in character to that of Manilla hemp. 

Respectfully yours, 

THOMAS SPRAGUE. 



174 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

A BEAUTEPDL PENmSULA— THE GOVERNMENT AND PEOPLE OF LOWER CALIFORNIA— 
THE ELECTIONS— REVOLUTIONS— AMENDMENTS TO THE STATE CONSTITUTION- 
COTTON, SUGAR, COFFEE, WHEAT, OATS, BARLEY, AND ALL VEGATABLES RAISED 
ON THE PENINSULA. 

J, A. Paz, Lo'«t;b California, December 22, 1867. 
Si quceris pcninsulam amcenam, circumspice. If thou seekest a beautiful peninsula, behold 
it here. One of the old poets so sang of Italy. In after-days the statesmen of Michigan con- 
sidered the motto worthy of State consecration. In still later days may not our " special 
correspondent," in the destiny of things, apply it to the wonderful peninsula of Lower Califor- 
nia, and thus, when the country comes into our possession — "as it must some day or another" 
(popular saying) — the telegram will have the honor of furnishing the Baja (Lower) 
Californians with a singularly appropriate motto. And surely, if cloudless skies and an at- 
mosphere and climate unsurpassed even by that laud in which sits the Eternal City make a 
country beautiful, then indeed is Lower California beautiful. 

The peninsula has a population of fourteen thousand, about one thousand of which are 
Americans, Germans, and other foreigners. Of the thirteen thousand five thousand are Indians, 
the remaining eight thousand being Mexicans and crossed blood. It is divided into eight mu- 
nicipalities, each of which is represented in the Legislature by a single representative. The 
representatives are elected by delegates assembled in convention by the popular vote. Here- 
tofore the Legislature or Assembly had only one House, the members of which elected the 
Governor. In cases where the municipalities are not represented in full in the Legislature, 
even one being non-represented, the president of that body becomes Governor by virtue of his 
office. Two of the municipalities having failed to send representatives, the office of Governor 
devolves upon an old and influential resident of San Fraucisco, Judge C. F. Galan, president 
of the Legislative Assembly. 

The present Executive, Governor Antonio Pedrin, was appointed by President Juarez in 
May, 1866. Since then there has been a revolution, and Pedrin was dispossessed and driven 
out by armed forces under Navarete, who filled the office some four months. In his exile in 
Upper California, Governor Pedrin accumulated a little army of his own and laid plans for the 
annihilation of his dispossessor. Returning from California he moved upon the enemy, suc- 
ceeded in ousting Navarete, and again assumed the sceptre of power. Navarete is now 
exiled from the State, and at last accounts was a follower of that adroit chieftain, General 
Martinez. Governor Pedrin, Sefior Navarro, Seiior Villarino, and Senor Castio were the prin- 
cipal candidates for the office of Governor before the present Legislature. 

At the late election the people voted for important amendments to the constitution, and it 
is in part the trust of this Legislature to carry out the will of the people. The amendments 
consist of having the Legislature represented by two Houses, a Senate and Assembly ; the 
Governor is to have the veto power, a Lieutenant-Governor is to be elected, all reports from the 
Assembly to the Governor, and vice vtrsa, are to be in writing (heretofore they were verbal), 
the Legislature is to have the power by a two-third vote of amending the statutes, besides 
some lesser amendments. When Governor Galan takes his seat it is understood that he will 
urge the necessity of keeping the state papers and all public documents in print and in dupli- 
cate. Up to the present time all official records of Lower California have been preserved in 
manuscript. 

The executive head of the Government under the old system was represented by the Gov- 
ernor, his Secretary and his Prefect of the Frontier, who resided at Santo Tomas, near the 
boundary line. The proposed amendments to the constitution, if carried out, will materially 
.change the executive power and give it greater influence. The judiciary is composed of a 
Judge of the First Instance (District Judge) and justices of the peace. There is a superior 
tribunal, consisting of a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices, each, however, having dis- 
tinct duties assigned them. The rulings of this court are not held valid, as the Chief Justice, 
residing at Mazatlan, claims, under some old law, the right to exercise supreme judiciary 
functions in Lower California. 

The only officers here representing the national Government are the Gefe de Hacienda (sort 
of public Comptroller) and the collector of the port. Here as elsewhere the State authorities 
frequently find the financial treasury so meagre that many of the revenues intended for the 
General Government are borrowed by local officials, for worthy purposes, as a matter of con- 
sequence. 

There is no doubt of the fact that Lower California is more than self-sustaining. The idea 
that nothing can be i-aised here without irrigation is fast being driven to the wall. An 
American gentleman, Captain C. B. Smith, who owns a large ranch at the Martires, sixty 
miles distant, last year produced the very finest qualities of wheat, barley, and oats without ir- 
rigation. Some of the single grains produced fifteen to thirty stalks. At the present time 
Captain Smith has as fine fields of wheat growing as could be found in the famous regions of 
Odessa. There are thousands upon thousands of acres of just such land as produce these 
(Crops, pronounced worthless by the natives, who, deriving many of their ideas from the Aztecs 
and old Spaniards, still cling to old prejudices and Jiever ask for experiments. 

Cotton is indigenous to the soil. The writer saw a wild tree growing immediately in 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. I75 

front of the office door of the American consul which was laden with bolls and pods — the 
cotton being fine and silky. This ttee sprung up naturally years ago, and has never received 
the least care or attention, yet is very thrifty and vigorous. The cultivated cotton (upland) 
is of a remarkably fine, soft, and silken texture. Its productiveness is enormous, and it will 
grow almost anywhere without irrigation. Mazatlan is the only market, where it brings at 
present prices but five cents per pound in general. This is owing to the productiveness of 
the crop and the monopoly at Mazatlan. The seed is planted in July and matures in Decem- 
ber. The picking season continues until the planting season again arrives. 

Vines thrive here equal to any part of the world, and. produce a quality of wine in taste 
and color but little inferior to Madeira. If proper pains were taken in its manufacture, the 
very best quality of wine might be made from the grapes grown on this peninsula. Olives, 
dates, oranges, lemons, figs and all other fruit of a like nature grow in profusion. All kinds 
of garden vegetables are abundantly grown, and potatoes are particularly good, tho sweet 
qualities growing to a large size and in great quantities. 

There is no disputing the existence of extensive mineral beds in this peninsula. This fact 
is so well and so extensively known to those most particularly interested that we merely mention 
it for the benefit of those who may be ignorant on the subject, and who desire to know where 
fortunes can be made. 

The following is a list of the silver-mines owned by American companies in Lower Califor- 
nia and now being worked : 

The Triunfo mine, district of San Antonio, owned by a Philadelphia and San Francisco 
company. This company have a twenty-four-stamp mill, sixteen of which are working. Ore 
averages $50 to .$70 to the ton. 

San Alberto mine, district of San Antonio, owned by George Cole, Esq., has a four-stamp 
mill. The ore is said to be very rich. 

San Narcissus mine, district of San Antonio, owned by De Witt C. Morgan. This mine 
yields from $800 to .$1,000 per month. The smelting process is by the old Mexican furnace. 

The Tosora mine, district of Cacuchilla, owned by a San Francisco company. The ore 
taken out of the mine is shipped direct to San Francisco. 

Neither of the above mines is extensively worked, the Triunfo being the only one in which 
any thing like improvements and enterprise are being manifested. The others, and indeed all, 
are waiting to " see how things are coming out " — which invariably means waiting for the 
peninsula to be annexed to the United States Government. 

Among the mines owned by Americans now lying idle, the owners wailing to "see how 
things are coming out," are the San Jose, San Joaquin, Gobernador, Rancheria, Alemania, 
Comstock, Opliir, Miuarica del Norte, Marronana, Maria, Franco-Americana. The same com- 
pany owning the latter also owns the Nacimiento, Ocota, and Gusava. Besides this large list of 
mines owned by Americans, it is safe to say that an equal number remains unnamed. From 
the foregoing statements and those which follow, it is apparent that American interests pre- 
dominate on this peninsula, and that we are very rapidly becoming Americanized, whether we 
like it or not. 

This seems to be a favorite land for colonization schemes. Two American companies are al- 
ready in possession of the larger and better portions of the peninsula. Whether these companies 
shall prove benefits and blessings to humanity, or whether they shall prove huge monopolies 
and establish legal systems of slavery and peonage, remains to be seen. First comes the Lower 
California Colonization Company. The extent of territory now owned by this company is 
46,800 square miles — almost the entire peninsula. The price to be paid in gold was §260,000. 
Of this sum $200,000 is paid in. It is the intention of the company to colonize this territory 
with negroes and Chinamen, and thus procure cheap labor for the production and manufacture 
of those important articles of commerce to which we have already alluded. No companies and no 
combination of companies can colonize and control the free will of the Anglo-Saxon, the Celtic, 
and the Latin races. If men of such blood and lineage come to this country they will come of 
their own free will — their own complete masters. As a consequence, then, since the charter or 
purchase right of the company exacts that at least two hundred families shall be colonized 
within a certain period, it is most likely that such families must belong to the African or China 
races. Whether this planting of uncongenial and foreign seed on American soil be not sowing 
material for a whirlwind, political and revolutionary, at some day in the future, we leave to the 
profound study of that profound thinker. Professor Draper. Among the capitalists prominent 
in the company are Benjamin F. Butler, of Massachusetts ; Ben Holladay, of New York ; Sam 
Brannan, of San Francisco ; Caleb Gushing, Wells, Fargo & Co., and numerous others. The 
next American enterprise is the Peninsula Plantation and Homestead Association. This com- 
pany own a vast tract of land lying along Mulege Bay, north of Concepcion Bay, in the Gulf 
of California. The point at which their chief city is to be located is about seventy miles south- 
west of Guaymas, across the gulf. It is about midway between Cape St. Lucas and the mouth 
of the Colorado. The greater portion of this company's land is said to be fertile and 
productive, and extends for one hundred miles up the coast a perfect level. The president 
of the company, A. Lamott, a well-known and influential citizen of San Francisco, considers 
that this is the Paradise of Lower California; and the energetic agent and superintendent of 
the company, 0. F. Gehricke, is enthusiastic as to the beauties and perfections of the para- 



176 SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENT AND 

disiacal region about Mulege Bay. That it is a most favored spot, there seems to be no doubt. 
The Mulege mining districts are said to contain gold, silver, and alabaster. Pearl-beds, the 
most celebrated in the Gulf of California, are found in the bay. There is no end to the qualities 
and quantities of fish living in the waters here and elsewhere. Game is plentiful, from the 
wild goose to the wild deer. One of the chief things for which this region is already famous 
is its wine, known as Mulege wine, resembling heavy claret and port. The Association, in 
populating their purchased territory, propose to divide the land among actual settlers, who 
become stockholders in the company by purchasing one or a hundred shares of the thirty 
thousand into which the stock is divided. Settlers are thus to have an interest in the affairs 
of the Association according to the capital invested. To men with $500 or $1,000 to invest, 
at .$16 per share, it offers inducements that may or may not pay, according to the success of 
the enterprise. Under existing circumstances it is impossible that any monopolies or asso- 
ciations can import free labor and pay its price. The fact is, that cheap labor is so tempting 
a bait for capital, that it underlies all these great undertakings. 

The copper-mine near Loreto, owned by the celebrated Mrs. Burdell Cunningham, is now 
being worked by her son-in-law, Mr. John T. Boyd. 

The gold-placer diggings in the vicinity of San Antonio, and also those farther up the 
peninsula at Gertrudes, have been very little prospected, owing to a want of water. Quartz 
has been discovered in the vicinity of the latter place, but that district is so remote from the 
settlements that nothing has been done to develop tlie variety or extent of the mineral wealth. 
Over 700,000 lbs. of pearl-shell are here now, awaiting shipment to European markets. Here 
they are valued at $21,000, in Europe they are worth $48,000. Something over 80,000 pounds 
of cheese were made in and exported from the muncipality of La Paz alone within tlie past 
year. This amount might be easily doubled and trebled if there were a market. 

Mescal — native whiskey — sufficient to supply home demand, is manufactured here, and sold 
at 75 cents per gallon. 

Though it is the Sabbath day, every one is working, because it is " steamer day." 

Taking a view of La Paz from the promenade deck of a steamboat, and making a personal 
tour of the city on sole leather, changes the prospect materially. The former is very pleasing, 
as many of the streets are planted with trees, which in the distance give it a picturesque 
appearance. That strange-looking vegetable, the cocoa-nut tree, grows to a great height, and 
lends a charming feature to many of the gardens. The principal street is Calle de Comercio 
(Commercial Street), which has much more poetry than commerce about it. This thor- 
oughfare contains the principal stores and business houses, is short and winding, and on either 
side are two rows of beautiful shade-trees. Outside of this street there is but little order 
or beauty. Cleanliness alone is the attraction. Like all Mexican cities. La Paz, from the 
streets to the suburbs, is swept daily or semi-weekly. Li the portions of the town occupied 
by the lower classes the most absolute negligence is apparent in almost every thing. The 
houses, made of cane or clay bricks, put loosely together, have neither doors nor windows. 
The poor live on little or nothing, and the atmosphere, always mild and warm, calls for the 
least possible quantity of clothing. Among other nations, American or European, the classes 
living like the people we find here, would have the characteristics of brutes, would breed thieves, 
robbers, garroters, and murderers. Politeness and courtesy would be unknown to them, 
and for a traveller to mix with them night after night, or seek to learn their lives, would be 
at the risk of his own. If he did not die murdered, in all probability he would be 
robbed. Yet among the Mexican people the poorer classes arc remarkably courteous and 
polite; life is perfectly secure among them at all hours of the day and night, and wherever 
you go a pleasant look and a courteous bow await you. Such is the experience of the writer. 
It is true that others have written very cruel and malicious accounts of these poor people ; 
that the American reading public have been educated to look upon the poor in Mexico as des- 
titute of any redeeming qualities ; but said public may rest assured that the dens of vice and 
the lives of the masses of the poor in their own country far outnumber and are far more 
degrading than in Mexico. Truth may not be relishable at all times, but an occasional dish 
should be served up lest the palate satiate itself with fulsome flattery. 

La Paz is the capital of Lower California, has a population of 2,500, and is the 
principal commercial city. It contains three schools, a church, and a few fine residences. The 
most of the commercial trade is in the hands of foreigners — American citizens, Germans, and 
French. Mr. J. P. Hale, an American citizen, residing at San Antonio, is one of the largest im- 
porters in the State. This gentleman, with Mr. John Vivas and a few other American mer- 
chants, pays more into the national and local treasuries than all the other merchants combined. 
Yet we are credibly informed that the American merchants suffer greater delays in custom- 
house matters, and are compelled to pay many burdens, not imposed on others. If these 
facts be true, they should be laid before the Department of State, and Admiral Thatcher, com- 
manding the North Pacific fleet, would in all probability see that American citizens had equal 
protection before the law. 

There is only one newspaper published on the peninsula — La Baja California of La Paz. 
This is a small weekly, printed and edited by Judge Galan, of whom we have made mention 
already in connection with the governorship. La Baja California (The Lower California) is 
a plain, out-spoken journal, full of new ideas and vitality. It especially advocates the interests 



EXPLORATION OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 177 

of American trade in opposition to the European monopolies now shackling and enslaving the 
Mexican people. In a very recent issue it tells its readers plainly that the present 
tyranny of European monopolies, to the great loss of American commerce, cannot be long con- 
tinued. We were highly pleased to make the acquaintance of the editor, who speaks excellent 
English, and is a finished gentleman. Judge Galan takes his seat as Governor in February. 
There are those who argue that he should not fill the position of editor and Governor at the 
same time, but the Judge is determined that he shall have the honor of being printer and 
editor rather than Governor. When we called upon him on two occasions, we found him, after 
true Western editorial life, engaged in correcting proof and working press — a press, by the 
way, manufactured in the year 1, or, as the Judge remarked, " long before that time." Upon 
the old worm-eaten wood-work were the mottoes in Spanish — " The Press is the Power of In- 
telligence," and " The Press and Liberty." 

Your correspondent received a most cordial welcome from the American Consul resident 
here. Colonel F. B. Elmer. Colonel E. served his country during the early part of the rebel- 
lion, and is active in the interests of the Government. Through his influence a coaling depot 
for the North Pacific fleet has been established at the splendid harbor of Pichilingue, nine 
miles down the coast, near the entrance to the harbor of La Paz. Pichilingue is the only coal- 
ing depot between San Francisco and Panama. 

To the American residents here, and to citizens Pablo Hidalgo, Jesus Mendoza, and Jos^ 
Peliaz, we are indebted for many courtesies. May we not also be permitted to return our 
most grateful acknowledgments to the fair and accomplished Mexican ladies, whose society 
was so congenial during our stay, and whose memories shall live green in our hearts ? 

It is proper to suggest, on behalf of American commerce and American citizens in Mexico, 
that the United-States Government cannot too soon inquire into the manner in which its 
commerce is almost effectually shut out of Mexico by the action of the State governments in 
admitting English and other foreign ships of merchandise to enter their ports at a reduction 
of duties notoriously below those charged Americans. Our trade with Mexico through this 
system is almost paralyzed, and the friends of Mexico are ti^eated as enemies, while their en- 
emies are treated as friends. The nations now petted by Mexico insulted Mexican liberty 
by recognizing Maximilian's usurpation. Through American intervention the French were 
driven out of Mexico. Through Mexican intervention American commerce is almost driven 
out of Mexico. 



178 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 



WASHINGTON TEERITOKY 



HISTORICAL MEMOIR. 

[1592.] — The first record of any voyage by Europeans to the coasts or seas 
of the region now denominated Washington Territory, is that attributed to Juan 
de Fuca, in the summer of 1592. Before that, Spanish navigators had actively 
engaged in exi)editions from Mexico up the Pacific coast, but Cape Mendocino 
was the ultima thule of their discoveries. Juan de Fuca, it is averred, sailed from 
San Bias, Mexico, ia search of the " Strait of Ancain," an imaginary channel con- 
necting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The belief in the existence of sucli 
strait was based upon the reported voyage of Gaspar Cortereal, a Portuguese 
navigator, who claimed that, about the year 1500, he had sailed from the Atlantic 
Ocean into the South Sea, in latitude 58° north. De Fuca's claim -is the asser- 
tion that he entered a broad inlet or sea, near the 48th parallel of north latitude, 
in which he sailed eastwar^over twenty days, but, being unable to resist the force 
of savages, he returned to Acapulco that fall. 

[1775.] — A Spanish expedition was fitted out from San Bias, under the com- 
mand of Iloceta, consisting of the corvette Santiago and schooner Souoia, the 
latter under the command of Bodega y Quadra. Early in July, they made the 
land in 48° 27' north. Thence they coasted southward inshore, seeking the en- 
trance of the strait of Fuca (laid down on Bellin's chart as between 47° and 48°). 
Disappointed, they anchored (47° 20'), and sent a boat ashore with seven men, all 
of whom were murdered by the natives. Bodega called the spotPunta de Mar- 
tires, the Point Grenville of modern geography. The crew of the Sonora were 
then attacked with scurvy, and other discouragements followed. Hence the 
name of Isla do Dolores by Bodega. This is the Destruction Island of modern 
charts, a name ascribed to it by Captain Berkely, of the Austrian East Indiaman 
Imperial Eagle, in 1787, in memory of the sad fate of several of his crew, who 
went ashore abreast of it, and were murdered by the natives. The Santiago and 
Sonora having parted company. Quadra sailed northward ; Heceta followed down 
the coast, and on the 15th August arrived abreast of an opening (46° 17'), from 
which rushed so strong a current, that he was unable to eft'ect an entrance. To 
this opening he gave the name of Ensenada de Asuncion. The charts published 
m Mexico, in honor of Heceta, designated this entrance Ensenada de Heceta, 
marking it as the mouth of the Rio de San Roquo. 

[1776.] — On the 22d July, the illustrious but ill-fated Captain James Cook 
made Point Martinez of the Spanish charts, to which he gave its present name 
of Cape Flattery. Not finding the strait of Fuca between the 47th and 48th 
parallels, he denied its existence, and continued his voyage to the northwest, 
without attempting any further examination. 

[1787.] — Captain Berkely, an English navigator, sailing in the Austrian East 
India Company's service, in the Imperial Eagle, descried the entrance, and satis- 
fied himself of the existence of the strait, in his long-boat, but made no further 
attempt at entrance. At Macao, the following winter, he communicated the fact 
to Lieutenant John Meares, R. N,, then about to sail to Northwest America, under 
the JJ'ortuguese fiag. 

[1788.] — On the 29tli June, Meares, in the Felice, entered the strait, 
and made a limited reconnoissance. In his narrative, he says . " The 



SKETCH OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 179 

strongest curiosity impelled me to euter this strait, whicli we will call by the 
name of its original discoverer, John De Fuca." Meares then sailed southward 
to examine the mouth of the Rio de San Roque. On the 5th July, he discovered 
and named Shoalwater Bay, calling the two capes, hounding the entrance, Cape 
Shoalwater (now Toke Point) and Low Point (now Leadbctter's Point). After 
a fruitless effort in the vicinity of the location of the river San Roque, as indi- 
cated by the Spanish charts, he thus gives his conclusion : " We can now with 
safety assert that no such river as that of St. Roc exists, as laid down on 
the SpanisTi charts." His chagrin gave occasion for the name Cape Disappoint- 
ment, the southwest promontory of Washington Territory, on whicii now is 
erected a light aiding mariners to make safe entrance into the mouth of that vast 
river, which Meares did not find. Still further to contemn the pretensions of 
Heceta, as he regarded them, he changed the name of Ensenada de Heceta to 
Deception Bay. 

In the fall of this year, the ship Columbia, Captain John Kendrick, and the 
sloop Washington, Captain Robert Gray, from Boston, arrived on the northwest 
coast. This being the first commercial enterprise embarked in bv the citizens 
of the then new Republic, the United States of America, a brief notice must be 
permitted. In 1787, Joseph Barrell, a prominent merchant of Boston, projected 
a voyage of commerce and discovery to the northwest coast of America, associ- 
ating with him Charles Bulfinch, Samuel Brown, John Derby, Crowell Hatch, 
and John M. Pintard. Under the auspices of this association, the said two ves- 
sels sailed from Boston, October, 1787, arriving at Nootka Sound in the fall of 
1788, as above stated. 

[1789.] — In a summer voyage from Nootka down the coast, Captain Gray, 
in the Washing-ton, entered the strait of Fuca, and " sailed through it 50 miles, 
in an east-southeast direction, and found the passage five leagues wide." In re- 
turning to Nootka, he met the ship Columbia, bound for China. Gray took com- 
mand of the Columbia, and Kendrick, transferred to the Washington, sailed 
through the strait, and, steering northward through some eight degrees of lati- 
tude, passed between the continent and the islands of Vancouver and Queen 
Charlotte, and came out into the Pacific Ocean, north of latitude 55° north. 
The Columbia having exchanged her furs for a cargo of tea (at Canton), sailed, 
via Cape of Good Hope, for Boston, where she arrived August 10, 1790. This 
was the first voyage around the globe by a vessel carrying the national ensio-n 
of the United States of America. 

[1789-1792.] — Spanish Explorations of the Strait of Fuca and adjacent 
Coasts, etc. — During these four years as many expeditions were fitted out by the 
Spanish commandant at Nootka, to explore the strait of Juan de Fuca and the 
Gulf of Georgia. That under Quimper, in 1790, thoroughly examined the south- 
ern shore of the strait, naming Neah Bay, Puerto Nunez Gaona, Port Discovery, 
and Puerto Quadra. He also discovei-edthe entrance to Admiralty Inlet, which 
he called Canal de Camaano. This was the southern limit of Spanish exploration. 
In 1792 the Sutil and Mexicana, commanded by Galiano and Valdez, met Van- 
couver at Port Discoveiy, and, in company with him, that season concluded a 
thorough exploration of the Canal de Ilaro, Rosario Straits, and Gulf of Georgia. 
In the summer of this year, Fidalgo commanded a Spanish expedition, which 
commenced a settlement and the erection of fortifications at Neah Bay, under 
the name of Nunez Gaona. Remains of masonry are still being exhumed in that 
locality. Old Indians state that the building was a large one-story brick house, 
with a shingle roof, surrounded with a stockade. Shortly after the Spaniards 
retired, the Indians destroyed it by fire, and buried the parts they could not 
consume. It is very doubtful whether any building was erected. Materials 
were landed, however, portions of which, such as bricks, etc., are still being found. 

[1792.] — Contemporaneous with these Spanish operations, other navigators 
were actively at work in this vicinity. lu the spring and summer of this year, 



]^gQ SKETCH OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

Captain George Vancouver, the illustrious British navigator, was engaged in the 
exploration of the islands, bays, harbors, inlets, etc., of the great inland waters 
of Washington Teriitory. From this famous voyage arose the names of Admi- 
ralty Inlet," Gulf of Georgia, Hood's Canal, Puget Sound, and other Ecglish 
names, so many of which are still preserved. Captain Robert Gray, in the good 
ship Columbia, had again reappeared on the coast, and was to add lustre to the 
American name in the field of discovery. Early in May he entered the bay 
called by him Bulfinch's Harbor, but which the world have denominated after its 
discoverer, Gray's Harbor. Shortly after (May 11th), he successfully entered 
the great river of the West, to which he gave the name, after his noble ship, the 
Columbia. Lieutenant Broughton, R. N., second in command of the Vancouver 
expedition, shortly after entered the river in the Chatham, and ascended in an 
open boat to the point upon which is now erected the city of Vancouver. 

[1805.] — The expedition of Lewis and Clarke, fitted out by President Jeffer- 
son, having explored and followed the Columbia River from its head-waters in the 
Rocky Mountains, arrived at Cape Disappointment on the loth November. They 
shortly crossed the river to Clatsop Beach, erected a blockhouse, and remained 
there till March, 1806. 

[1810.] — Li June, Captain Nathaniel Winship, in the ship Albatross, from 
Boston, attempted the first American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains, 
at Oak Point, a low alluvial bottom, on the Oregon side of the Columbia River, 
nearly opposite Oak-Point Mills in this Territory, and wliich now really wears 
that distinctive name as a settlement. The Albatross sailed July 6, 1809, via 
Cape Horn and the Sandwich Islands, arriving at the mouth of the Columbia 
May 25th. After cruising some ten days in the river, Oak Point was selected as 
the site of the establishment. Land was cleared, seeds planted, and the erection 
of a trading and dwelling house commenced. The annual freshet of the Colum- 
bia soon after inundated the garden, flooded the storehouse, and caused the 
abandonment of the enterprise. It must be borne in mind that Oregon origi- 
nally embraced Washington Territory, and that the Columbia River is the com- 
mon boundary, its development and history being common to each. 

[1811.] — Although Astoria is not in the Territory, yet its location and con- 
nected posts, establishments, and operations, are inseparably blended with the 
subseqnent history and development of this whole region. Indeed, early after 
its establishment, Astoria became but an incident of those events, the theatre of 
which was almost entirely north of the Columbia River, hence within the limits 
of this Territory. In 1810 John Jacob Astor formed the Pacific Fur Company. 
His plan embraced a principal settlement at the mouth of the Columbia as a 
headquarters and depot for trading-establishments, and parties to be distributed 
through the interior, with a line of posts on the Columbia and Missouri Rivers. 
The ship Tonquin, Captain Thorne, U. S. Navy, on furlough, conveyed a party 
via Cape Horn ; and Wilson P. Hunt simi.altaneously led an expedition across the 
Rocky Mountains to the mouth of the Columbia. In March, 1811, the Tonquin 
arrived, and on the 12th April, the erection of the fort and warehouses was com- 
menced at Astoria. The (British) Northwest Company of Canada (several of 
whose members Mr. Astor had taken into his enterprise) determined to baflie 
Mr. Astor's scheme. To avoid the impressment of Canadian employes as Brit- 
ish subjects, Mr. Astor secured the convoy by the U. S. frigate Constitution, well 
ofiT the United States coast. Simultaneous with his sailing, the Northwest Com- 
pany sent a party overland, under command of David Thompson, who was ex- 
pected to reach the mouth of the Cohunbia River before the arrival of the Ton- 
quin. Snow in the Rocky Mountains checked the progress of Mr. Thompson. 
He arrived at the mouth of the Spokane River and estabhshed a post, about the 
time the settlement at Astoria was commenced. Along his route he distributed 
British flags to the Indians, and took possession of the country for the North- 
west Company. In June the Tonquin sailed up the coast, and at Clyoquot 



SKETCH OF WASHINGTON TEREITORT. 181 

Sound, on the west coast of Vancouver Iskuid, was taken by the Indians, and all 
her crew murdered, except the Indian interpreter. A large number of natives, while 
robbing the ship next day, were killed by the explosion of the magazine, a just 
retribution for their perfidy. During the same summer Mr. Stuart, of Astor's 
company, established Fort Okanagane. On the 12th December, 1813, the Brit- 
ish sloop-of-war Raccoon, 26 guns, Captain Black, appeared before Astoria, The 
American flag was hauled down, the British standard raised, and the name of 
Astoria was changed to Fort George. 

A short time previous, the agent employed by Mr. Astor had sold him, as 
well as the business of the Pacific Fur Company, to the rival Northwest Company 
for the merely nominal sum of $40,000. By this pretended purchase of the in- 
terests of the Pacific Fur Company, the Northwest Company enjoyed a sole oc- 
cupancy of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains, to the line of the Rup 
sian settlements. 

In 1817 the United-States Government sent to the mouth of the Columbia 
the sloop-of-war Ontario, Captain James Biddle, carrying the Hon. J. B. Pre- 
vost, United-States commissioner, to receive the return, to the United States, 
of Astoria as an American settlement captured during the war, the treaty of 
Ghent providing for such surrenders by both nations. She arrived at Astoria, 
August 19, 1818, when Captain Biddle again raised the American flag at As- 
toria, it reassuming the name of its distinguished founder. The formal surrender 
of the property by the British commissioner and the agent of the Northwest 
Company was made October 6, 1818. 

October 20, 1818, a convention was entered into for ten years, between 
Great Britain and the United States, permitting a joint occupancy, by citizens 
and subjects of both nations, of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains. In 
March, 1821, the Hudson's Bay and Northwest Companies, who for many years 
had carried on such fierce opposition to each other that hostilities ensued, en- 
tered into a partnership. With their combined influence, favorable legislation 
was secured from the British Parliament, extending the jurisdiction of the courts 
of Canada to the Pacific Ocean (notwithstanding the existence of the foregoing 
treaty by which non-occupancy by the English Government was agreed to). De- 
cember 26, 1821, the two companies, as a partnership, obtained from the Brit- 
ish Government an exclusive license of trade in said territory for 21 years. In 
1824 the Hudson's Bay Company swallowed up the Northwest Company, and 
became sole owners of said license of trade, and successors to all the property 
and establishments of their former rivals the Northwest Company. 

In 1824 and 1825, respectively, the United States and Great Britain, by 
treaties with Russia, recognized 54° 40' north latitude as the southern line of 
Russian America. In 1827 the treaty between the United States and Great 
Britain continued indefinitely the provision of joint occupancy in the treaty 
of 1818, until either party should give twelve months' notice of desire to abro- 
gate. 

From 1824 down to 1836 the Hudson's Bay Company were almost exclu- 
sive possessors of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains, with here and. 
there an occasional trading-party, hunter, or trapper, attemjjting to enjoy their 
doubtful and dangerous avocation. The latter were generally employed by the 
enterprising Fm- Companies of St. Louis, and but seldom extended their opera- 
tions as far west and. north as what is now Washington Territory. The area of 
the present Territory of Washington may be regarded during this period, and 
even down to 1845, as under the control and jurisdiction of the Hudson's Bay 
Company. Within its boundaries they had established forts at Vancouver, 
Walla Walla, Okanagane, Colville, Nisqually, Cowlitz River, and, just after the 
abrupt termination of the negotiations between Messrs. Buchanan and Sir Richard 
Pakenham in 1845, by instructions from London, a claim at Cape Disappointment 
was secured. This admirable distribution of posts was not only calculated to 



1^2 SKETCH OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

secure the trade of the country, but to hold the native tribes in subjection ; in 
short, to hold possession of the countr}'. 

In 1834, the missionary settlements from the United States commenced, 
and shortly afterward the American population slowly found their way into 
Oregon, confinino- for several years their settlements south of the Columbia. 
True, two of the three missionary stations, established under the auspices of the 
American Board of Foreign Missions, viz., Whitman's at Waiilatpu and that 
of Messrs. Eels and Walker, near the Spokane River, had been located in what 
is now comprised in this Territory. In 1841 the United-States Exploring Ex- 
pedition (Captain Charles AVilkes) surveyed the coasts, bays, harbors, and rivers 
of tliis Territory. In 1843 Lieutenant Fremont, U. S. A., on his second expe- 
dition, reached Vancouver, thereby connecting his first reconnoissance, which had 
only extended to the South Pass, with the eastern terminus of Captain Wilkes's 
exploration. 

In October, 1845, Colonel M. T. Simmons, with his own and several other 
families, who had crossed the plains in 1844, settled near the head of Puget 
Sound, at Tumwater, the mouth of the Deschutes River. This marks the com- 
mencement of American settlement in what now constitutes Washington Terri- 
tory. The Oi'egon provisional government, formed July 5, 1843, had created 
the District of Vancouver, embracing all the present Territory of Washington. 
Shortly subsequent Lewis County was cut oft', and the name of Vancouver 
changed to Clark. 

On the 15th June, 1846, the treaty of limits between the United States and 
Great Britain made the 49th parallel, and the middle of the channel separating 
the continent from Vancouver Island, the northern boundary of the American 
Oregon. In November, 1847, within the limits of the present Washinofton, 
while yet a part of Oregon, an atrocious massacre was perpetrated at Whit- 
man's missionary station (Waiilatpu) not far distant from the site of the present 
city of Walla Walla. Dr. Whitman and wife and nine others (Americans) 
were murdered in cold blood by a band of Cayuse Indians. This led to the 
Cayuse war, in which the provisional government of Oregon inflicted upon those 
perfidious wretches a chastisement most richly deserved, but hardly commen- 
surate with their guilt. 

August 14, 1848, Congress organized the Territory west of the Rocky 
IMountains, naming it Oregon. The region north of the Columbia River having 
attained sufficient population (March 2, 1853), was set apart as a separate Ter- 
ritory, and denominated Washington Territory. The act of Congress establish- 
ing this Territory ascribed the following boundaries : north, by the treaty line 
of 1846, separating it from the British possessions; east, by the Rocky Moun- 
tains ; south, by the 46th parallel to its intersection with the Columbia River, 
and thence by the channel of that river to its mouth ; and west, by the Pacific 
Ocean. 

[1853.] — The survey of the Northern Pacific Railroad route from the head- 
waters of the Mississippi to Puget Sound by the late Governor Isaac J. Stevens, 
the then and first governor of Washington Territory, occupied the whole sum- 
mer and fall of this year. September 29th, proclamation of Governor Stevens 
of his entrance into the Territory and assumption of executive duties, dated at St. 
Mary's village. November 28th, executive proclamation, fixing time of elec- 
tion, defining judicial districts, and apportionment of districts for election of 
mei;nbers of Legislative Assembly. A census of the white population was taken 
this year by J. "Patton Anderson, first United States marshal, Avhich exhibited 
3,965 inhabitants, and 1,682 voters. 

[1855.] — Gold having been discovered on several of the tributaries of the 
Columbia, in the vicinity of Fort Colville, miners from Oregon and Puget Sound 
rushed to the " new diggings." The latter, mostly unarmed (for treaties had 
been concluded the spring before which seemed to be a guaranty of the peace- 



SKETCH OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 183 

able disposition of the Indians), crossed the Cascade Mountains, and passed 
through the Yakeini country. Several were surprised and murdered. United- 
States Indian agent Bolon was killed, and he and his horse consumed by fire. 
Simultaneously, outrages of similar character were committed by Indians in 
various regions, from the boundary of California to the north boundary of this 
Territory, indicating concert of action among the Indian tribes. The Indian 
war of 1855-56 ensued as a necessary consecpence in Oregon and Washington, 
which was long maintained, almost exclusively by the people of those Terri- 
tories. x\t its conclusion, General Wool, of the United-States Army, then in 
command of this military division, was as hostile to the authorities and popu- 
lation of this Territory as the Indians had been when it commenced, and much 
more than he had been against the Indians during any of his campaigns. 

[1859.] — February 14th, Congress admitted Oregon into the Union as a 
State, annexing to Washington Territory all that portion of Oregon Territory 
lying east of the present east boundary of Oregon, extending the south and 
southeastern limits of this Territory to the 42d parallel, continued east- 
ward to the Rocky Mountains, and embracing within it the South Pass, that 
great gateway of American immigration to the Pacific States and Territories. 
This summer is also notable for the San Juan Island emeute, which terminated 
peaceably by General Winfield Scott entering into a temporary agreement, con- 
senting to the joint occupancy of that island by detachments of troops of the 
United States and Great Britain. This humiliating condition of things yet 
continues, and the laws of Washington Territory are suspended in that portion 
of its limits. 

[1863.] — March 30th, the act of Congress, establishing the Territory of 
Idaho, curtailed its huge proportions, and reduced the Territory to its present 
boundaries. A reference to the map will show that this Territory embraced at 
one time great portions of the Territories of Idaho and Montana (as at present 
constituted), including those mining regions, the richness and apparently inex- 
haustible yield of which liave attracted so much interest. 

The present limits of Washington Territory are suggestive of and associated 
with matters of historic moment, intensely interesting in a political and 
national point of view. It embraces the identical territory the struggle for 
which prolonged that memorable controversy between Great Britain and the 
United States known as the Oregon question — a contest continued at intervals 
from 1807 until June 15, 1846. While it is true that both nati(ms asserted 
claim to the ivhole of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains, up to the far- 
famed 54° 40', yet the gist of the controversy, the real bone of contention, the 
turning-point upon which the matter finally hinged, tuas the territory south of 
the 4i9th parallel, ivest and north of the Columbia River. The United States 
had ottered on several occasions, as a compromise, the 49th parallel westward 
to the Pacific Ocean. Great Britain had likewise oftered the 49tli parallel 
westward of the Rocky Mountains to the Columbia, thence down that river to 
the Pacific. Great Britain coveted the region north and west of that river, with 
its free navigation, and exclusive ownership of the Puget Sound Basin. The 
negotiations develop this fact, and its open avowal by Sir R. Pakenham — in 
September, 1844, in reply to the able establishment of the American claim to the 
whole territory by Mr. Calhoun, that " he," Sir R. Pakenham, " did not feel 
authorized to enter into discussion respecting the territory north of the 49th 
parallel, which was understood by the British Governmetit to form the basis of 
negotiation on the side of the United States, as the line of the Columbia formed 
that on the side of Great Britain " — at least attests the fact that the value of this 
interesting region was appreciated by the British negotiator. 

But the treaty of 1846 has not settled the controversy, the boundary 
between the two nations, and now we do not know the northwest boundary of 
the Territory of Washington. The title to San Juan Island and the Archi- 



184 SKETCH OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

pelago de Haro is still in dispute. A second treaty (July 1, 1863) lias been 
found necessary to ascertain the rights possessed, and the value of the benefit 
conferred, by the Hudson's Bay Company in enjoying its exclusive trade and 
occupancy from 1824 down to 1846. The immense claim now being urged 
under the latter treaty, $5,000,000 (a trifling proportion of which is for estab- 
lishments outside of Washington Territory), together with the dispute as to the 
sovereignty of San Juan and other islands, which so nearly provoked collision 
in 1859, between the British fleet and the camp of the United-States Army on 
San Juan Island, justify the statement that at no time, since first pressed by 
the foot of white men, has its Territory been exempt from a conflict between 
rival nations as to rights of sovereignty or exclusive possession. That Janus 
faced treaty of 1846 is among its most notable features of history. It aimed to 
settle the boundary, but left the seeds of future controversy by its uncertainty. 
Twenty-one years have elapsed, and the boundary of the United States is still unde- 
termined. A portion of Washington Territory is subjected to that anomaly of 
two nationalities holding armed occupation as evidence of adverse claims. That 
treaty also denied the claim of the British Government, as such, south of the 
49th parallel, yet resolved that great nation into individuals, and conferred 
upon such individuals, or combinations of them, the privilege of absorbing as 
much territory as they saw fit to claim as possessory rights, which the United- 
States Government bound itself to respect. ■ 



SKETCH OF NEVADA. 185 



HISTORICAL SKETCH OF NEVADA, INCLUDING BOUNDARIES, 
POPULATION, ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS, EARLY SETTLE- 
MENTS, &c. 

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION AND AREA OF THE STATE. 

The State of Nevada reaches from the 37th to the 43d meridian west from 
Washington (114° to 120° west from Greenwich), and, from the point where it 
adjoins Arizona (near the 35tli), to the 42d dejiTee of north latitude, being 
bounded by Oregon and Idaho on the north, by Utah and Arizona on the east, 
by Arizona on the south, and by California on the southwest and west. Prior 
to 1866 the State extended no farther east than the 38th meridian, and no far- 
ther south than the 37th degree of nortb hititude, Congress that year having 
taken from Utah and added to Nevada one degree of longitude. A tract of 
irregular shape, covering an area of some 12,000 square miles, lying between 
California and the Colorado River, and bounded on the north by the 37th 
degree of north latitude, was at the same time taken from Arizona and given to 
this State, which, Avith these additions, has now an area of about 112,190 square 
miles, or 71,800,000 acres, from which about 1,600 square miles may be 
deducted for the area covered by the water surface of various small lakes within 
its borders. In the organic act creating the Territory of Nevada, Congress 
designated the dividing ridge of the Sierra Nevada for the western boundary 
thereof, contingent on the consent of California, which by this arrangement 
would be required to surrender a considerable strip of country lying within her 
limits east of the Sierra, which, notwithstanding much importunity on the part 
of her neighbor, she declined to do. In the absence of any survey establishing 
the boundary between these two countries (a fixed geographic line), much 
uncertainty prevailed as to its precise location, a circumstance that afterward 
led to a conflict of jurisdiction, threatening to end in serious results. With a 
view to settling this question and preventing further difficulties, the Legislature 
of California passed a law in 1863, providing for a joint survey to ascertain and 
adjust this boundary ; which, having afterward been done, set the matter at 
rest by giving to that State the greater part of the territory in dispute. The 
term Nevada, signifying in Spanish a heavy fall of snow, was adopted as a State 
cognomen, because of the immense bodies of snow that fall on the Sierra 
Nevada range of mountains lying partly within its limits, and bordering it for a 
long distance on the west, as well as upon many of the mountain-chains in the 
interior of the State. Nevada is subdivided into twelve counties, nine of which 
were created at the time of its first organization and three since. These coun- 
ties are of very unequal dimensions; the more western, owing to their being the 
site of the principal mineral discoveries, their proximity to California, and other 
fav<)ring circumstances, being, as a general thing, more populous, and conse- 
quently smaller than those situated farther in the interior. 

POPULATION. 

The number of inhabitants in the State, exclusive of Indians, amounts to 
about 35,000, being somewhat less than it was three or four years ago, when 
the population was much swollen by speculators, adventurers, and other tran- 



Igg SKETCH OF NEVADA. 

siont persons, attracted to the country hy curiosity, or the hope of speedy gain. 
This decrease of inhabitants is attributable chiefly to the diminution of this 
class, and a consideral>le drain caused by emigration to the adjacent Territories 
of Idaho and Montana, nincli of which is now making its way back to this 
State. That it did not largely consist of the working population is shown by 
the advance of improvements, and the steady and marked increase in the prod- 
uct of bullion, as well as in the other staples of the country ever since ; the 
large quantity of land taken up, and the number of permanent settlements made 
thereon, also pointing to a similar conclusion. Of the population accounted 
civilized, about three per cent, consists of Chinese, mostly confined to the cities 
and larger towns. The people of African lineage amount to two or three hun- 
dred in the State, some of them being among its earliest residents, and nearly 
all distinguished for industry and thrift. Anterior to the summer of 1859 the 
number of white inhabitants in the region included within the present limits of 
Nevada did not exceed 1,000, which, according to the census taken in August, 
1861, had then been increased to 16,367, the most of whom were confined to 
the western margin of the State. As nearly as can be estimated the present 
population is distributed as follows : Douglas County 2,000, Ormsby 3,500, 
Washoe 1,500, Storey 14,000, Lyon 2,500, Churchill 500, Roop 500, Humboldt 
1,500, Lander 6,000, Nye 2,000, Lincoln 500, and Esmeralda 2,500. 

Society here, as in California, being gathered from every quarter of the 
globe, bears a somewhat cosmopolitan impress. Owing to the frequent 
stoppage of overland immigrants, a rather larger proportion of the inhabi- 
tants than usual are native born and originally from the West. The Chinese 
reside mostly in the towns, the self-employed being chiefly engaged as Avood- 
gatherers, laundry-men, artisans, or tradei-s with their own people — gambling 
being the sole occupation of a considerable number. Those in the service of the 
Caucasians are generally employed in the more menial capacities, working for 
about one-half the wages paid white men. Nearly the entire female portion of 
the population are debased to the last degree. So universal is the moral degra- 
dation of this class, that it is doubtful whether, of the four or five hundred Asiatic 
women in the State, a single one could be found of unquestioned virtue ; the men 
also being, for the most part, much addicted to lasciviousness and the gratification 
of other low desires. Though quiet and industrious, showing but little inclina- 
tion to mingle with the whites, or participate in the management of public aftairs, 
there is a prejudice entertained against this people amounting to a positive avei'sion 
on tlie part of almost ever}" other race ; this repugnance being so deep-seated 
and universal as to place them in many respects under the ban of public senti- 
ment, shutting them out not only from certain conventional but sometimes from 
even graver privileges — the Asiatic often being denied immunities freely extended 
to the Negro and Lidian. These discriminations are not confined to social life, 
but aftect business relations as well, the testimony of these people not being 
admitted in legal evidence as against the whites. In many of the mining dis- 
tricts of Nevada the Chinese are prohibited by the local. laws from holding claims, 
a privilege never withheld from any other race or class of people. 

ABORIGINES. 

The aboriginal races residing within this State consist of four principal tribes, 
or nations, to wit, the Washoes, Pah-Utahs, Shoshones, and Bannocks, all marked 
by strong similarities in their ])hysical appearance, modes of life, social polity, 
religious notions, etc. Something like a division of territory, however, exists 
among them, the Washoes inhabiting a strip of country along the western margin 
of the state, the Pah-Utahs the balance of the western and the southern, while 
the Shoshones occupy the eai^tern, and the Bannocks the extreme northern 
portion of the State. The latter, made up in good part of outcasts and renegades 
from the tribes about them, are generally accounted more bloodthirsty and 



SKETCH OF NEVADA. 18Y 

treacherous than their neighbors, a reputation that, judging from their persist- 
ent hostilities and recent outrages, seems well deserved. Considering the extent 
of country over ^vhich they are scattered, these tribes are not numerous ; and 
although it is difficult to estimate their precise number, it does not, perhaps, 
exceed ten or twelve thousand in the State — a portion of the territory inhabited 
by them, or over which they roam, lying outside its limits. The AVashoes, as a 
family, are the fewest; while the Pah-TJtahs are the most numerous of these 
tribes, which are sometimes further subdivided into bands or families, those 
occupying a particular section of country being distinguished by local names, as 
the Toquimas, Monos, etc. As compared with many barbarous nations on the 
continent, these Indians are not remarkably ferocious or warlike, or otherwise 
excessively addicted to the vic'es characteristic of savage life, having, with the 
exception of the Bannocks, offered no concerted opposition to the settlement of 
their country by the whites, and but rarely attacking in force immigrant parties 
passing through it. Yet, like all savages, they are easily tem^Jted to depredate 
on their civilized neighbors, sometimes destroying property and even life in the 
most wanton and cruel manner, the losses sustained from these attacks being in 
the aggregate quite large. Formerly intertribal difficulties were common with 
these people, bloody wars being often waged between them, resulting in a sen- 
sible reduction of their numbers. Dissensions and feuds between the minor 
subdivisions of the several nations were also of frequent occurrence. The stealing 
of the squaws of one class by another, encroachments upon neighboring territorv, 
etc., being the chief causes of these troubles. Male captives taken in war are 
killed, women and children reduced to slavery. Since the advent of the whites 
into their country these internal animosities seem to have been suppressed, or, at 
least, have but rarely manifested themselves in a flagrant manner. The large 
and sudden influx of whites, caused by the discovery of silver, so thoroughly 
satisfied these tribes of the futility of attempting to prevent their settlement in 
the country that they never combined to oppose it, contenting themselves with 
a few protests against the destruction of their pine-nut forests, the seeds of which 
form with them a staple comestible, and with an occasional act of individual re- 
taliation. The Indians, though wandering much and shifting from place to place 
for the purpose of fishing, hunting, or obtaining other means of subsistence, have 
still their favorite places of abode, these being generally near the lakes and streams, 
or along the mountain-dells, where wood and water are of easy procurement and 
more ready shelter is gained from the winds and storms. In these and similar 
localities the winter is usually passed, the balance of the year being mostly spent 
in the mountains, where, during the autumn, they gather the pine-nut, or in the 
valley and on the plains, where they obtain a great variety of food. With the 
exception of a little corn and barley, and a few melons raised by some of the 
more southeastern tribes, these Indians cultivate no lands, though sometimes 
imgating a species of natural clover upon which, when young and tender, they 
love to feed. The culture of barley, but recently practised, and confined to a 
'"ew small patches, is the result of accident, this grain having first sprung up from 
.some seed scattered by the whites in the Pahranagat region. The habit of grow- 
ing melons and corn was derived, no doubt, from the natives farther south.. 
Being thus almost solely dependent upon the natural products of the country 
for sustenance, these people, though rejecting nothing, however coarse or unpal- 
atable, that will support life, are sometimes sorely pinched from want of food. 
The articles upon which they mainly rely for subsistence are pine-nuts, game, fish,, 
grass-seed, and various kinds of roots, berries, and tender vegetation, there being 
scarcely any thing that grows out of the ground or creeps upon its surface that 
they are too dainty to eat. Insects, bugs, vermin, and reptiles of every description, 
with the exception of a certain species of lizard, are by them esteemed wholesome- 
and devoured with satisfaction. When the crop of pine-nuts is abundant, w'hich. 
does not happen every season, the Indian in this region is secure against famine.. 
55 



jgg SKETCH OF NEVADA. 

This nut, having a thin tender shell, and being similar in shape to a small-sized 
pea-nut, is obtained from the cone of the piiion, a scrubby species of pitch-pine, 
found in scattered groves on many of the mountains of Nevada. Its meat is oily, 
tasting something like that of the hickorj'-nut, -with a slightly terebinthine flavor. 
They are, however, palatable and nutritious, being relished alike by the white 
and the red man. They are gathered by the squaws, who, in the fall of the year, 
provided with long, slender poles, beat the cones from the limbs, after which 
they are thrown in a heap and the outside charred with fire, causing the lobes 
to open, when the seeds are easily extracted, and after drying are put away for 
future use. Hares and rabbits are the only kind of game that are plentiful in 
this part of the Great Basin. The mountain-goat inhabits a few localities, and 
antelope are occasionally seen ; the bear rarely or never. The sage-hen is the only 
bird, except water-fowl, upon which the Indian can rely for game. Geese, ducks, 
cranes, and pelicans, are numerous about the lakes and sloughs at certain seasons 
of the year, many of them being taken at these times by the natives. The im- 
plements and devices employed by these people for capturing their prey consist 
of fire-arms, the bow and arrow, with a variety of nets, traps, etc. Salmon and 
the larger kinds of fish are speared, or, like the smaller, caught in weirs, or with 
the hook and line, draining the streams and other artifices sometimes being re- 
sorted to for this purpose. The habitation of the Nevada Indian is of the most 
rude and temporary kind ; his " wick-ee-up " or wigwam consisting, at best, of 
nothino- more than a few willows bent into a conical shape and covered with 
grass or bark. Oftener the only shelter of himself and family is composed of a 
little brush, piled to the Avindward of his camp-fire, or such protection as a cliff" or 
tree may be able to afford. His dress is equally comfortless and scanty, being- 
made up in his native state of a blanket-like robe, constructed by sewing together 
the skins of hares and rabbits, with moccasins made from deer-skins or such other 
material as he may be able to obtain. Recently such as have most intercourse 
with the whites are beginning to adopt the costume of the latter, attiring them- 
selves in cast-off clothing, or purchasing new when they have the means for doing 
so. The women are shy, and in their primitive state disposed to be chaste, any 
violation of the conjugal tie on their part formerly subjecting them to the penalty 
of death, and, although the rigor of this law has of late been much relaxed, it is 
still sometimes enforced against off'enders. Both the men and women are, as a 
general thing, deep-chested and well built, with the exception of their limbs, 
which, both arms and legs, are usually small. The adult males have an average 
height of about five and a half feet, the females being from six to eight inches short- 
er. The latter, as among the most savage races, are the drudges of all work, hav- 
ing to perform most of the labor requisite to procure a living both for themselves 
and their children, as well as for the men. Both sexes are filthy in their persons, 
and, as they grow old, sometimes become extremely ugly — this being especially 
the case with the women. These people, without having any creed or elaborate 
system of religion, believe in a Supreme Being, the immortality of the soul, and 
different conditions of happiness hereafter, dependent on man's actions in this 
state of existence. They have neither priests nor " medicine-inen," or at least 
no class set apart for the exclusive practice of these callings. Feasts, or pow-wows, 
partaking apparently of both a religious and convivial character, are common, eat- 
ing, dancing, and a variety of ceremonies being practised on these occasions. In 
disposing of the dead, both cremation and burial are resorted to, the latter being 
most in vogue. On the death of relatives, the women set up a dismal wail, in 
which the children and men sometimes join, the same being continued for days 
and nights together. Nothing can exceed the apparent anguish experienced by 
these poor creatures, or surpass in plaintive tenderness the cries uttered on these 
occasions of sorrow. These tribes have chiefs both for war and council, these 
oflSces being in part hereditary and in part conferred as the rew^ards of personal 
merit. Being without property or any complicated system of government, they 



SKETCH OF NEVADA. 189 

have few laws, all questions of moment being settled by the chiefs or the people 
in council. Gross offenders are tabooed or put to death by a general decree of 
the tribe to which they belong. Pol5-gamy, without being common, is tolerated 
and occasionally practised by the leading men, none of whom, however, are apt 
to have more than two wives. The marriage rite is a simple affair, consisting of 
a mere agreement between the parties, and not considered particularly binding 
on the part of the husband, who is at liberty to dissolve the alliance when he 
chooses. The women are not fruitful, their progeny rarely exceeding five or six 
in number. The only domestic animal owned by these Indians is the horse or 
the dog. Of the former they have but few, while the latter are numerous, and of a 
very worthless species, being apparently a cross between some degenerate 
species of the canine race and the coyote. How these wretched curs nianage to 
keep life in them is a mystery. But the dog, like his master, is not at all dainty, 
devouring such garbage as the latter may refuse, and in extremities prolonging 
life by feeding upon any fecal matter he may come across. When nothing better 
offers, the squaws gi-ind up the seed of the artemisia and give it to these animals, 
for which, miserable and useless as they are, they cherish a great affection. 
The Indian's horse fares no better than his dog, being always backsore, over- 
burdened, and starved to the point of emaciation. These animals are not used 
for draught — only for riding and packing, the latter being a service they are 
obliged to share in common with the women. 

Many of the Nevada Indians residing in the vicinity of mining-camps and 
the larger settlements are beginning to be employed by the whites, their services 
in a variety of capacities being found very useful. Where a suitable opportunity 
offers they are not unwilling to work, many of them performing certain kinds 
of unskilled labor nearly as well as the whites. In the t(\wns the men find em- 
ployment wheeling and shovelling dirt, chopping wood, carrying water, etc. ; the 
younger and more intelligent of the squaws making fair wages at washing, 
while both sexes engage in packing in fuel on their backs, for which they always 
find a ready market. As a prospector the Indian is very expert, the miners often 
securing his aid when going out on a tour of exploration ; some of the most 
vahiable mineral discoveries in southeastern Nevada having been made by Indians 
in the service of the whites. They are also adroit assorters of ore, having a 
quick eye to detect the differences in quality, for which reason some of them are 
employed by the mill-men for this purpose. Upon the farms also, especially in 
the harvest-fields, many of them prove acceptable hands ; their wages in these 
several callings averaging about one-third those paid white laborers. The 
natural improvidence of the Indian prevents his laying up money or accumulating 
property, while he is prone to abandon work on the most trivial pretext. The 
acquisition of a few dollars fills him with a sense of independence, besides being 
apt to awaken his natural passion for gambling, a vice to which he is much ad- 
dicted, and in the gratification of which he will sometimes stake his last remnant 
of clothing. Latterly cards are his chief implements, though not without native 
devices for conducting these games of hazard. Toward the Chinese the Indians 
on this coast everywhere manifest a supreme contempt, regarding them as desti- 
tute of the virtues peculiar to either the white or the red man, and often, in inferior 
numbers, despoiling these pusillanimous people with impunity. There is, however, 
an additional reason for this enmity — the Chinaman, who seeks the same callings 
with the Indian, often underworking the latter, and thus becoming his keenest 
competitor in an industrial point of view. 

Since mixing Avith the whites, these Indians, contracting the diseases incident 
to such intercourse, have rapidly diminished in numbers, indicating the near a])- 
proach of the time when, as a race, they must sufter final extinction. The only 
thing that could long postpone this inevitable result would be their collection 
upon reservations, there to be trained to habits of industry and instructed in the 
arts of civilized life. Their more thorough domestication might even tend to 



190 SKETCH OF NEVADA. 

ameliorate their condition and delay the period of their extermination as a peo- 
ple. Two extensive reservations, well adapted to the purpose, liave already 
been set apart in this State for their use — the one being at the mouth of the 
AValker River, and the other on the Tuclver, at the point where it debouches into 
Pyramid Lake. These places have been made the resort of large bands of Pah 
Utahs, but, owing to a want of sufficient means, no efficient and systematic meas- 
ures have yet been adopted for supplying them with implements, or instructing 
them in the cultivation of the soil ; and since a small appropriation, properly 
administered, would suffice for this purpose, it might be good policy for the Gen- 
eral Government to provide accordingly. With a little aid at the outset these 
reservations, now useless, would soon become the liomes of a large and self-sus- 
taining population, inasmuch as these Indians, besides having a natural aptitude 
for the business of farming, will appreciate the advantages that would be likely 
to accrue to them from possessing these lands and earning their own livelihood. 
At present all the tribes in this State, except the Bannocks, are peacefully inclined, 
and even anxious for more intimate and friendly relations with the vvhites — a 
disposition that might be availed of to the benefit of both races, improving the 
moral and physical condition of the Indian, and nourishing a much-needed ele- 
ment of cheap labor in the country. The Bannocks, always a thieving and 
vindictive tribe, killing immigrants, and causing northern miners and settlers a 
great deal of trouble, have of late manifested their murderous propensities in a 
manner that has aroused general indignation, and impi'essed the popular mind 
with the necessity for their utter destruction. Owing to the determined and 
persistent hostilities of these savages. Government has been compelled to keep a 
considerable force, composed of small detachments of troops, stationed at differ- 
ent points along the i^rthwestern frontier of the State, for the double purpose of 
protecting the settlers in that region, and parties passing through it to southern 
Oregon, Idaho, and Montana. In numerous conflicts had between the regular 
and volunteer soldier}' and these Indians, many of the latter have been slain, 
without sensibly diminishing their numbers or at all abating their animosity, 
rendering the adoption of a more rigorous policy toward them necessary. 

EARLY HISTORY AND SETTLEMENT OF NEVADA. 

At the time the territory now constituting the State of Nevada was acquired 
from Mexico, there were no white inhabitants within its limits; the sole occu- 
pants of this region prior to that event consisting of the aboriginal races, among 
whom even the Jesuit fathers, with all their zeal and self-denying toil, appear 
never to have extended their labors. Not a mission had then by them been 
planted so far north at any point east of the Snowy Mountains. A few trappers 
and Indian traders had pursued their vocations along the streams or about the 
sinks and sloughs, some small companies of immigrants had passed over, and 
several exploring parties in the service of the Government had flitted across these 
solitary wastes, but not even the most adventurous and hardy white man had 
ever presumed to take up his abode within their gloomy precincts. Anterior to 
the acquisition of this region by our Government, Fremont had penetrated vari- 
ous parts of it, this indefatigable explorer, in connection with Stanbury, Beck- 
with, Simpson, and others, having afterward crossed it by diftercnt routes while 
prosecuting their surveys for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific 
Ocean ; and although the labors of these men, chiefly directed by observations 
on the topography and other physical features of the country, shed much light 
upon these points, they failed to impart any great amount of knowledge as to its 
mineral wealth or general fitness for the abode of enlightened man. Of the hard- 
ships, losses, andsufferings of the immigrants who crossed the great interior 
basin of Utah at an early day — of their struggles with the elements, and contests 
with the Indians — their hunger, thirst, and'toil — but little has been recorded. 



SKETCH OF NEVADA. 191 

Planting no settlements and leaving no monuments behind them, the sacrifices 
and labors of this vanguard of a better civilization on the shores of the Pacific 
have failed to be fully appreciated, because not generally understood. The most 
of them, however, having attained the objects of their enterprise in crossing the 
continent, feel too well satisfied with their subsequent good fortune to repine at 
the public forgetfulness of the services they rendered their country and the world. 
Of ail the pufiering endured by these pioneers of the Far West the most signal 
and appalling were those encountered by a company of immigrants known as the 
Donner party, who, coming mostly from Illinois and Missouri, crossed the plains 
in the summer of 1846. Ignorant of the country, and attempting to reach Cali- 
fornia by a near route, they were so retarded that they failed to arrive at the 
foot of the Sierra Nevada until late in November. There, while encamped at a 
considerable elevation on the eastern slope of the mountains, they were over- 
taken by a premature and terrible storm, the snow falling in the course of a few 
days to the depth of 10 or 12 feet, burying up not only themselves and wagons, 
but also their stock, which they had inconsiderately suffered to stray away — a 
fatal oversight, inasmuch as it cut off" the only means left for the prolongation of 
their lives. The scanty stock of provisions brought with them being soon ex- 
hausted, these most unfortunate beings had no resource left but to feed upon the 
bodies of such of their companions as had died — two of their Indian guides hav^- 
ing previously been slain and devoured. After a time, some of the stronger and 
more resolute of the party, taking advantage of a return of pleasant weathei', 
pushed their way over the mountains, and, arriving at Sutter's Fort, made known 
the deplorable situation of their companions, to "whose aid a relief party was at 
once dispatched. On their reaching the tragic spot, since known as " Starva- 
tion Camp," a scene of indescribable horror presented itself to their view. Of 
the eighty persons who originally composed the company, thirty-six — twenty- 
eight males and eight females — had perished, their bones and such fragments of 
their bodies as had not been devoured being scattered around. The survivors, 
lean and ghastly, appeared ferocious or idiotic, according as their sufferings had 
severally affected them. Some were overcome with emotions of gratitude and joy, 
while others, gloomy and taciturn, rejected the food that was brought them, 
ghoul-like, preferring the cannibalistic fare upon which they subsisted so long. 
All of them, however, with the exception of three, were removed, the most of 
them reaching California in safety. Of those left behind, two, Jacob Donner 
and Louis Keisbury, were too weak to travel ; while the third, Mrs. Donner, 
though strong, and able to make the journey, remained from choice, preferring 
death to the abandoning of her husband while yet alive. No remonstrance could 
shake her purpose, wherefore this heroic woman, having taken a sad farewell of 
her children, of whom she had several, resigned herself to her fate, while the 
relief party, unable to tarry, as the threatening storms were again gathering on 
the Sierra, having left what little provisions they could spare, hastened away. 
About the middle of April, nearly two months later, another expedition, having 
been sent out from California to ascertain the fate of the miserable beings left 
behind, found Keisbury still alive, he having preserved his existence by feeding 
upon the bodies of his two less fortunate companions. Donner bad died soon 
after the departure of the first relief party, and his wife, famished and exhausted, 
a few days later. Keisbury was suspected of having put an end to the woman 
for the purpose of securing her flesh before it became emaciated by famine. He 
was, however, on a subsequent trial, acquitted of this charge. Although the oc- 
currences here related did not take place within the actual limits of Nevada, the 
locality is very near its western boimdary, and, being wholly on the eastern side 
of the Sierra, may justly be considered as belonging to the history of this State. 
The earliest permanent settlers in western IJtah were Mormons, who, dur- 
ing the year 1848, first located in Carson Valley at Genoa, which place from this 
circumstance continued for some time thereafter to be known as the Mormon 



192 SKETCH OF NEVADA. 

Station. The following, and for tliree or four successive years, further settle 
ments were made by these people, several families locating in Eagle and 
Washoe Valleys, some of them on the present sites of Carson City and Frank- 
town, Their number afterward gradually increased to two or three hundred, 
some of them having been induced, Avhile on their way to California, to settle 
here by the beauty and excellence of the valleys ; and others coming in pursu- 
ance of instructions from their superiors at Salt Lake, whose policy it was to 
secure and colonize as speedily as possible all the choice spots within the rim 
of the Great Basin, Avith a view to prevent their settlement by Gentiles^ as they 
impudently styled all opponents of their creed. The rapid population of the 
Pacific coast, by reason of the California gold discovery in 1848, threatening to 
thwart the colonization schemes of the Mormons, exposing the adherents of that 
faith to annoyance and contempt, they held themselves aloof from the Gentile 
world, and, leading to their religious demoralization where they foiled to do so, 
caused the controlling powers to issue an edict in 1855, commanding their fol- 
lowers in these distant precincts to forsake the same and repair to Salt Lake. 
In obedience to this mandate, most of those Avho had built for themselves pleas- 
ant and comfortable homes in the fertile and secluded valleys of western Utah, 
sacrificing their property and possessions for a mere pittance, or abandoning 
them altogether, departed with such trifling eflfects as they could carry on their 
wagons for the central settlement, more than 600 miles distant over the moun- 
tains and deserts. Finding upon their arrival there how miich they had been 
deceived, and disgusted with the impositions afterward practised upon them, a 
portion of these people, dispirited and impoverished, returned after a few years 
to Carson Valley, some building new and others reoccupying their former habi- 
tations. In the summer of 1849 a party of immigrants journeying toward Cali- 
fornia, having discovered an auriferous bar on the flat at the mouth of Gold 
Caiion, near where the town of Dayton now stands, were induced to stop here 
and engage in gold-washing, the diggings paying from 10 to 15 dollars per 
day to the hand, very nearly what was then considered California wages. To 
their number others coming overland were added every year thereafter, which, 
with some traders, adventurers, and miners drawn from California, served to 
swell the population of *' the Eastern Slope," as this section of Utah was then 
called, to something over a thousand souls at the period of the silver discovery, 
made in the summer of 1859. Of this number one-fourth, perhaps, were 
engaged in mining, the balance being farmers, traders, herdsmen, etc. But 
little land was at that time enclosed or cultivated, the most done in the way of 
farming being hay-cutting, and the raising of a few vegetables, the population 
depending on California chiefly for their flour, and other staples of provision, as 
well as for clothing, hardvvare, etc., except in so far as these supplies could be 
obtained from the overland immigration. For the business of procuring and 
raising stock "the Eastern Slope" afforded many advantages and facilities. 
The valleys abounded in good water and grass, and the climate was sufficiently 
mild to enable animals to get through the winter without fodder or shelter, 
while the immigrants arriving across the plains with their working horses and 
cattle, and often even their loose stock, worn oat and impoverished, were ready 
to dispose of the same on easy terms to the herders and traders, selling them for 
a trifle, or exchanging them for fresh animals, to enable them to continue their 
journey, or for provisions and such other commodities as they stood in need of. 
Some seasons a great deal of stock, together with wagons and other property, 
was abandoned by the immigrants in Carson Valley, or more frequently on the 
deserts beyond, the owners being unable to get it any farther. In such cases 
this property would be appropriated by the settlers, traders, and others, who 
made a business of gathering it up, going sometimes far out upon the desert for 
this purpose. The stock so collected, having under careful treatment recuper- 
ated, was either taken to California for a market, or kept to swell the herds of 



SKETCH OF NEVADA. 193 

the ftarly settler, ■whicli often became numerous, and in some cases very large. 
From the year 1850 to 1860 parties were in the habit of leavinj^ California 
ever)" summer, and crossing the Sierra with small pack-trains loaded with flour, 
bacon, and other provisions, for tbe purpose of selling the same to the incom- 
ing immigrants, or bartering them for stock, whicli, consisting mainly of choice 
American horses, cows, and oxen, was in great demand in California, selling 
there readily, however thin in flesh, for high prices. It was the habit of these 
traders to proceed to Carson Valley, or points still farther east, and, meeting there 
the westward-bound immigrants, themselves often out of provisions, and their 
stock reduced to skeletons, obtain the pick of their flocks and teams on almost 
any terms they might see fit to propose. Apart from the political incidents 
hereinafter related, but little of an eventful character transpired in connection 
with the early history of this region. The Mormons, who from tbe first had 
been a disturbing element in the community, continued to be a source of cease- 
less disquietude, until western Utah was created into a separate Territory, 
whereby they were deprived of further political power. AVith the usurpations 
and outrages complained of by the Gentile population, the resident Mormons 
had little to do, they being themselves, for the most part, in bad standing with 
the ruling priesthood at Salt Lake, because of their contumacy in refusing to 
tarry at that place, and for their persistence in rejecting polygamy and other 
dogmas of the prelacy. Still they continued to be objects of aversion and dis- 
trust among their neighbors, who could neither forgive them for the acts of 
their rulers nor Avholly suppress the prejudice excited by the very name they 
bore. Prior to the separation mentioned, the Mormons had entire political 
control of the country, making all laws and electing or appointing all subordi- 
nate public officers — a condition of things that naturally chafed their opponents 
a good deal, and sometimes furnished just grounds of complaint. Laws, 
obscure, partial, and unjust, often in contravention of the organic act and 
obnoxious to the moral sense of the community, w^ere passed. Franchises were 
granted to the adherents of the church, while withheld from other and equally 
worthy applicants. Judicial and other oflfices were filled by persons illy quali- 
fied for the position, and unlimited jurisdiction was conferred upon inferior 
courts. Petty officials were sometimes invested with almost absolute power ; 
trial by jury was virtually abolished; and, as if bent on entirely defeating the 
administration of justice, and destroying the very machinery of municipal gov- 
ernment, the county of Carson, covering nearly the whole of western Utah, was 
for the second time dismembered, and its records removed to Salt Lake. These 
proceedings, as may well be supposed, greatly exasperated the anti-Mormon 
party, who, in denouncing the oligarchy at headquarters, abated nothing of 
their enmity toward such of their followers as resided among them. 

Meantime certain local matters had led to dissensions among the Gentile 
portion of the settlers themselves, whereby the Mormons, or " Saints," as they 
styled themselves, from sympathizing with the weaker party, became still fur- 
ther the objects of popular dislike — a feeling that did not cease to influence local 
affairs, until the large influx of population incident to the discovery of the silver- 
mines occurred. The following extract from a sketch of this region, published 
in 1862, illustrates the nature and causes of the disagreements above alluded to : 

" For a long time Carson Valley had served as a refuge and hiding-place for 
certain disreputable parties engaged in running off" strayed and stolen stock 
from California. Owing to its remote and at that day almost inaccessible situ- 
ation, it afforded a safe retreat to these depredators, the owners of the property 
scarcely ever making pursuit. After resting and feeding for a few days, this 
stock was driven thence to Salt Lake, generally by obscure routes well known 
to the Mormons, who frequently took a hand in this business, or, being herded 
for a time in some of the valleys about Carson, it was afterward disposed of to 
the traders coming in, or driven into California at remote point;; and sold. 



194 SKETCH OF NEVADA.. 

This same class did not scruple in like manner to prey upon the overland irami- 
i^rants, picking up such cattle as had strayed from camp, or throuo-h weakness 
fallen behind, or, where opportunity offered, stealincr them outright. These 
dishonest practices were not engaged in by the actual residents of the valley, 
who sought as far as possible to suppress and discourage them, being, as a gen- 
eneral thing, an honest and lionorable class of men, though not remarkable for 
industry and thrift. To this latter remark, however, there were exceptions, a 
considerable number of these people being hard-working, enterprising, and well 
to do in the world. 

" For years these outrages bad been going on witli impunity, to the great scan- 
dal of the old settlers, when at length they culminated in one of unusual atrocity, 
and which, being attended by circumstances of both pillage and murder, aroused 
the entire community and brought down upon the perpetrators deserved and 
summary punishment," 

This ])unishment consisted in the trial and execution of two of these supposed 
offenders by a " Vigilance Committee," and tlie banishment of others suspected 
of crimes from the country, a movement that, fjiiling to secure the approval of 
the entire body of the people, led to bickerings and factions that kept them in a 
constant turmoil, resulting sometimes in personal collisions and bloody strifes. 

Prior to the discovery of the Comstock mines, there were but few mechanical 
and no manufacturing establishments ia western Utah ; three saw and two fiour 
mills, with about an equal number of blacksmith and wagon shops, comprising 
every thing ranking in this line of industry. These mills were all driven by 
water, and were mostly of limited capacity. Up to this time no roads or bridges 
had been built, as indeed scarcely any were needed, the country being nearly 
everywhere easily traversed with vvagons, and the streams mostly fordable, ex- 
cept a few at high stacjes of water. Of public edifices it can hardly be said there 
were any, some two or three small school-houses affording all needed accommo- 
dation for educational and religious purposes. The wealth of the inhabitants, 
consistinnj chiefly of their horses and cattle, was not large ; and, as most of them 
graduated tlieir wants by their means, they were enabled to subsist almost wholly 
on the product of their flocks and the small tracts of lands they cultivated. Be- 
fore the year 1859 no systematic or extended effort had been made toward 
building or improving a wagon-road over the Sierra Nevada lying between Utah 
and California. That year a road starting from Placerville was surveyed, and 
partly built up the South Fork of the American River, under an appropriation 
made by the Legislature of California, aided by contributions from the counties 
of Sacramento and Eldorado, The improved portion of this road, however, 
and that but partially completed, extended no f;irther than the base of the main 
Sierra, the point wliere the greatest difficulties began in crossing that range of 
mountains. The next year several wagon-roads leailing from different points in 
California were begun, the most of which, having afterward been completed, 
afford easy transit for loaded teams across the Sierra. Over two of these thor- 
oughfares, the one known as the Placerville and the other as the Donner Lake 
route, dailv lines of stages are now running, while tri- and semi- weekly lines pass 
over several others. Some of these roads, after crossing the main mountain-ridge 
by a principal trunk, have numerous branches divergino; on either side, affording 
ample facilities for comnnmicating with the adjacent country. The aggregate 
cost of these improvements has amounted to considerably over a million of 
dollars, the sums expended on the Placerville route alone making a total of more 
than half that amount. They are nearly all the work of private enterprise, having 
been built and still being maintained as toll-roads. Several of them have proved 
sources of great profit to the proprietors, while others have been financial failures, 
their revenues being insufficient or barely enough to keep them in repair. Yet 
even the building of these has in some cases conferred much benefit upon the 
public at large. 



SKETCH OF NEVADA. 195 

Before the inauguration of the silver-mining era, in 1859, there were no 
towns of magnitude in this part of Utah Territorj' — Genoa, the largest place, not 
containing over two hundred inhabitants, while Carson Cit}', the next in size, 
had a still smaller number. Besides these, Chinatown, Johnstown, and Gold 
Hill, mining-camps, and Mottsville and Franktown, agricultural hamlets, were 
the only places deserving even the name of villages, tlpon the discovery of the 
silver-mines, population rapidly increased, and a great number of towns were 
laid out, a few of which were speedily built up, Virginia City taking the lead, 
while Carson, also a place of quick growth, followed up at a slower pace. After 
these, and during the next three or four years, Silver City, Gold Hill, Aurora, 
Dayton, Ophir, Austin, Genoa, Empire, and Washoe Cities, gradually expanded 
into active towns ; several camps in the Humboldt region and elsewhere having 
meantime grown into considerable villages, the most of them to experience a 
short-lived prosperity and afterward decline. Many other towns were projected 
in different parts of the country, but being too far in advance of mineral develop- 
ment, few of them ever attained to any size. The winter of 1859-'60 being 
unusually rigorous, the pioneer settlers in Washoe (as the country, upon the dis- 
covery of silver, came to be called) suffered many deprivations and discomforts, 
provisions being scarce, and their habitations, hastily constructed of the most 
rude and flimsy material, affording them but inadequate protection against the 
inclement weather. There was also such an insufficiency of fodder that more 
than one-third of the stock in the country perished from starv'ation and cold 
before the month of May of the latter year, the little hay gathered the preceding- 
summer being early consumed by the demand that had so suddenly sprung up. 
Many of the farmers and herdsmen suffered severely from this cause, losing not 
only their young stock and that intended for the shambles, but also many cows, 
horses, and work-cattle. 

Early in the month of May, 1860, four white men, stopping at Williams 
Station, on the lower Carson River, were murdered, while asleep, by a small party 
of Indians. This bloody act, though provoked by gross outrages previously com- 
mitted against the savages by the proprietors of the place, all but one of whom 
were absent and escaped massacre, called for speedy punishment. Instead, how- 
ever, of pursuing the individual murderers and bringing them to justice, an in- 
discriminate war was undertaken against the entire tribe of Pah-Utahs, to whom 
this band belonged. A company of one hundred and fifty men, well armed and 
mounted, having collected at Carson, took their departure, under Major Ormsbv, 
an early settler on " the Eastern Slope," for Pyramid Lake, intending to attack 
the Indians gathered at that place. The latter, however, apprised of their pur- 
pose, left their camp at the lake, and, proceeding up the Tucker River a few miles 
to a narrow pass, there concealed themselves, to the number of several hundred, 
on either side of the stream. The banks of the defile selected by them were 
covered with rocks, aflbrding them perfect protection, and through it their foes 
were obliged to pass. When the latter, ignorant of danger, were well advanced 
into this gorge, and within musket-range, the savages opened fire upon them, 
shooting down their leaders and throwing the main body into temporary disor- 
der, Tlie whites, however, recovering ft'om the shock, rallied, and manfully stand- 
ing their ground, picked off such Indians as appeared in sight ; but with so little 
show of effectual resistance, that they were finally obliged to abandon the unequal 
combat, some twenty of their number having been killed, besides many wounded. 
Amongst those who fell was Ormsby, the leader of the expedition. Captain Storey, 
Richard Snowden, and several other well-known and much-esteemed citizens. 
Apprehensive that the savages, encouraged by their success, would advance upon 
the frontier settlements, much consternation for a time prevailed in Virginia City 
and other exposed localities. Application was made to California for aid, from 
which place arms and troops were at once dispatched, and an additional force 
having meantime been raised in Utah, the whole took up their line of march 



196 SKETCH OF NEVADA. 

toward the scene of tbis lamentable repulse, lioping tbat tbe Indians, by remain- 
ing in tbat vicinity, would afford tbem an opportunity to avenge tbe deatb of tbose 
wbo had already fallen. But tbe enemy, too Avise to await tbe arrival of tbis 
more formidable body, decamped, and, fleeing into tbe nortbern deserts, placed 
themselves beyond tbe reach of their pursuers. After a useless chase and some 
sldrmisbing between small parties, in which a few Indians Avere killed, tbe troops 
Avere withdrawn from tbe field, and finally disbanded, leaving tbe savages un- 
subdued, and, in fiict, more hostile and dangerous than before — a condition of 
things that tended much to discourage immigration and retard tbe exploration 
of the country, inasmuch as travellers and prospecting parties could not, for 
some time after, proceed to any distance from tbe more populous settlements with- 
out danger. Considered in its immediate and more remote results, it may safely 
be calcukted tbat these Indian difficulties set tbe whole country back at least one 
year. 

Prior to tbe month of June, 1860, all the ore taken from the Comstock 
ledge, with the exception of trifling quantities worked in arrastras, and at a small 
water-mill on Carson River, had been sent to San Francisco for sale or reduction. 
In August of tbat year the first quartz-mills erected in the Territory were 
completed, tbat built under the superintendence of Almorin B. Paul, known 
as the Washoe Mill, situate at Devil's Gate, being the first of these establish- 
ments started. Tbe same day (August 13, 1860), Coover's mill at Gold Hill 
got up steam, being but an hour or two behind the other in commencing oper- 
ations. Once entered upon, the building of quartz-mills progressed so rapidly 
that, in less than two years from tbe completion of the first, there Avere over 
eighty of these works, carrying twelve thousand stamps, in operation, tbe aggre- 
gate cost of Avbich was nearly four million dollars ; tbe development of tbe mines, 
the building of roads, and other improvements, having kept even pace with the 
construction of quartz-mills. During these two years the town of Virginia, from 
a small village, grcAV into a city of eight or ten thousand inhabitants ; Carson, 
Gold Hill, Dayton, and Aurora, increased to considerable towns, Avhile a number 
of populous centres Avere established elscAvhcre in the mining, lumbering, or 
agricultural districts. A flood occurring in tbe fall of 1861, folloAved by one 
still more serious the ensuing spring, caused great destruction to the roads, mills, 
dams, ditches, and similar property, throughout the Territory, interrupting for a 
time the progress of Avork, and diminishing tbe product of bullion. The aggre- 
gate of losses caused by these floods and the accompanying storms, including those 
arising from interrupted labor, amounted to over two million dollars. For a 
more detailed account of individual enterprises and branches of business, local 
improvements, etc., the chapters descriptive of tbe several counties in the State 
may be consulted. 

Having thus glanced at tbe leading facts connected Avith tbe early settlement 
of Nevada, it may be expedient, before proceeding to speak in detail of its min- 
eral Avealth and industrial progress, to present a brief narrative of its political 
history, folloAving tbe same Avith some account of the topography, physical fea- 
tures, and natural productions of the country. 

POLITICAL HISTORY OF NEVADA. 

The territory comprised within the limits of tbis State originally belonged 
to Mexico, being a part of that purchased by our Government under tbe treaty 
of Guadalupe Hidalgo, consummated in 1848. Prior to its alienation by tbe 
Republic of Mexico, it Avas included in the department of " Alta California." 
After its acquisition by the United States it formed a part of the Territory of 
Utah, constituting tbe Avestern portion thereof, from Avbich it Avas separated by 
act of Congress, approved March 2, 1861, and erected into the Territory of 
Nevada. Antei-ior to this event, an attempt Avas made by tbe then residents of 



SKETCH OF NEVADA. 19 Y 

tliis region to sever it from Utah and form it into a separate Territory, whicli 
also it was proposed should be named Nevada. Chafing under the rule of the 
Mormons, as already' related, they began agitating this measure as early as 1857, 
consummating it two years thereafter — that is, so far as the adoption of a con- 
stitution, and the election of Territorial officers and a delegate to Congress, could 
effect that object ; the national legislature, ■when it came to be submitted to 
them, declining to indorse their action, James M. Crane was chosen delegate 
to represent these people at Washington, whither he proceeded in 1858, urging 
their claims in a very intelligent and energetic manner. Returning to his con- 
stituents in 1859, Crane dying suddenly in the fall of that year, John J. Musser 
was elected his successor. Musser also went to Washington, where he spent a 
year without accomplishing or materially advancing the object of his mission. 
In the mean time, events transpired that led the people to abandon the eff"ort at 
establishing a separate government, and determined them to reorganize the 
county of Carson, as being- the only procedure that promised to bring them pres- 
ent relief. The discovery of the mines at Virginia had brought in a large popu- 
lation, and, by advancing the prices of property, stimulating trade, and creating 
a new and more potential industry, rendered the adoption of some plan for in- 
suring an administration of law necessary. No attempt at setting tlie machinery 
of this provisional government in motion had as yet been made ; wherefore, when 
the Territorial Legislature convened at Genoa, the capital, on the 15th day of 
December, 1859, Governor Roop, in the message transmitted to them, having re- 
counted the causes that had first led to tlie inauguration of this movement and 
the changed circumstances under which they now found themselves j^laced, ad- 
journed the Assembly to the month of January following — this, the first, proving 
to be the final adjournment of that body. In the spring of 1800, John Cradle- 
baugh, appointed one of the United States District Judges for Utah, arrived in 
Carson Valley, having been assigned to this portion of the Territory. As an 
officer, he discharged his duties to the satisfaction of the people, but as all pro- 
ceedings had to be taken and all cases adjudicated under the statutes of Utah, 
popular dissatisfaction failed to be allayed, and but little judicial business was 
done ; nor did the restoration of Carson County, containing all the white popu- 
lation in the western part of the Territory, secure the good results anticipated. 
Confusion and insecurity continued to prevail, rendering the titles to property 
uncertain, keeping out capital, and greatly impeding the industrial progress of 
the country, until Congress, by an act approved March 2, 1861, erected this 
part of Utah into the Territory of Nevada, a measure that soon brought order and 
security, relieving the community of a condition of things bordering on anarchy. 
In the month of July following, James W. Nye, who had been appointed Gov- 
ernor, and most of the other Federal officials, arrived in the Territory, and at 
once entered upon the vigorous performance of their duties. On the Slst day 
of August an election was held in accordance with a proclamation of the Gov- 
ernor, whereat members of the Legislature and a delegate to Congress were 
chosen, Judge Cradlebaugh being selected for the latter position. The Legis- 
lature at their first session, commencing on the first of October, enacted a very 
excellent code of laws, modelled after those of California. The Territorial organ- 
ization thus effected continued to be maintained until the 19th day of Januarv, 
1864, when it was superseded by the present State constitution, then adopted 
under an enabling act of Congress. A similar instrument, framed by a conven- 
tion duly chosen, had, on being submitted to the people, been by them rejected the 
previous year. Nevada was, on proclamation of the President, admitted into the 
Union, forming the thirty -sixth State, on the last day of October,! 864, being barely 
in time to allow the people to cast a vote for presidential electors that year. 
The constitution of this State declares in its Bill of Rights that the paramount 
allegiance of every citizen is due to the Federal Government, and that no power 
exists in the people of this or any other State of the Federal Union to dissolve 



198 SKETCH OF NEVADA. 

their connection therewith, or to pei'form any other act tending to impair, sub- 
vert, or resist the supreme authority of the Government of the United States, and 
asserting the right of tlie latter to maintain the Union, and compel obedience 
to its laws by the employment of whatever force is necessary to that end — Ne- 
vada having been the first State to engraft this doctrine of Federal supremacy 
on its fundamental law. In her acceptance of the provision contained in the 
enabling act of Congress, requiring that she should, by an ordinance forever 
irrevocable, without the consent of the United States, prphibit slavery within 
her limits, Nevada has entitled herself to the further distinction of being the first 
State to surrender all power over this institution, by a condition precedent to 
the framing of her primary law. The entire vote polled in the State at the No- 
vembe relection in 1864, was 16,420, of which 9,826 were cast for Lincoln and 
6,594 for McClellan electors. On this occasion H. G. Blasdel was chosen Gov- 
ernor, in opposition to David E. Buel, and Henry G. Worthington was elected 
member of the House of Representatives. The Legislature, at its first session 
under the new constitution, elected William M. Stewart and James W. Nye United 
States Senators, the latter having been reelected to this position in January, 
J 867, Delos R. Ashley, chosen representative to Congress in 1864, was re- 
elected in the fall of 1866, at which time also H. G, Blasdel was reelected Gov- 
ernor of the State. At its session commencing on the first Monday of Janu- 
ary, 1867, the Legislature of this State ratified the proposed amendment to the 
Constitution of the United States, abolishing slaverv in all parts of the Republic, 
there being but a single negative vote cast in each branch of that body. 



DISCOVERY OF GOLD, ETC. • I99 



THE DISCOYERT OF GOLD m CALIFORNIA * 

Translated from the " Colcccion de documentos relativos al departtnento de Californias, por 
j Manuel Castanares." 

"Mexico, 1&44. 
" The deposit of 2;old discovered in the course of last year lias attracted great 
attention. It extends itself nearly thirty leagues. The good quality of this 
metal is made manifest by the certificate of its assay, which was made by the 
bank of this capital, the original of which is in the possession of your Excellency. 
In order to bring to light the elements of the great riches in which the Califor- 
nias abound, it is necessary to dictate the means of a very thorough examination. 
I shall have the honor within a few days to present to your Excellency an account 
of what those detailed elements consist, and the means of unfolding them with 
very few sacrifices. 

" Manuel Castanares." 

Extract of letter to the Minister of Foreign Relations and Government con- 
cerning the resources of the State. 

" MINING. 

" This brancli ought to be considered less worthy of attracting attention than 
agriculture. It is nevertheless of great importance, and I have the satisfaction 
of assuring you that it forms in California one of the most valuable resources 
Avhicli that department contains. Besides the mines of silver which have been 
found and which have been proved by the extraction of some metal, the placer 
of gold in particular is worthy of all attention, which, with nearly thirty leagues 
of extension, was discovered lately, and the coal-mines. It is painful for me to have 
to confess that this branch is in a worse state than that of agriculture, that it is in 
its infancy — this, it can be said, is not yet born, notwithstanding that, according 
to the approximate calculation of reliable people of Los Angeles, on my departure 
from that town in December, 18G3, there were in circulation about two thousand 
ounces of gold which had been taken out of the above-mentioned mine, the 
greater part of which was destined to the United States. This metal has some 
alloy — according to the certificate of its assay by the bank of this capital, which 
was in the possession of the government at the beginning of this year — twenty- 
two carats' two and a half grains of gold and fifteen grains of silver." 



ALTITUDES OF THE PRINCIPAL POINTS ON THE 
PACIFIC SLOPE, t 



THE COAST RANGE, 



In the middle part of California, has an average height of 2,000 or 3,000 feet, 
with no peaks as higli as 4,000 feet. To the north and south its average height 
is about 5,000 feet. To the west of this range the temperature is greatly modified 
by the ocean, making the range of the thermometer very small. To the east, as 
in Sacramento Valley, the temperature varies much more, because much of the 
moisture from the sea cannot reach it. 

* Translated by Charles Yale. + Furnished by Lieutenant-Colonel Williamson, U. S. A, 



200 



ALTITUDES OF THE PACIFIC SLOPE. 



THE SIERRA NEVADA 

Is tlic highest range of mountains in the United States. Its passes are from 
5,000 to 8,000 feet high, with peaks to the north and south occasionally reach- 
ing over 14,000 feet. The central part is of less altitude. The climate of the 
western slope is very dry, compared with that of the coast, with a considerable 
monthly and daily range of the thermometer. 1 

THE GREAT BASIN. 

East of the Sierra the climate is exceedingly dry, the difference of the wet 
and dry bulbs of the psychrometer occasionally reaching 40° F. Sometimes the 
thermometer will read 80° F. at two p. m., and below the freezing point in the 
coldest part of the following night. This so-called " Great Basin " is bounded 
on the east by the Rocky Mountains, on the south by the Colorado River, etc., 
and has an average height of 4,000 feet, with peaks and ranges sometimes reach- 
ing 10,000 feet. It contains a valley 30 miles in length ("Death Valley," the 
sink of the Amargosa River), which is 11 o feet heloiv the level of the sea. 

The Colorado Desert has a climate very much like that of the Great Basin, 
though it is much nearer the level of the sea. The temperature occasionally 
reaches 120° F. in the shade. On the Pacific coast the barometer seldom changes 
in the warmest month more than Jy- of an inch, and in the coldest month more 
than -^ of an inch. 



Mountains, etc. 



Mount Shasta, California, 
Mount Hood, Oregon, 
Mount Diablo, California, 
Aurora, Xevada, 
Austin, " 
Virginia City, " 
Carson City, " 
Placerville, California, 
Yosemite Valley, " 
Death Valley, " 
Astoria, Oregon, 
San Francisco, California, 
Sacramento, " 

San Diego, " 

Sitka,Aliaska, 



Altitude in 

feet. 



14,440 

11,225 

3,858 

7,441 

6,451 

6,300 

4,720 

1,965 

3,935 

175 

near sea-level. 



Barometer, 
yearly mean. 



30.028 
30.067 
29.981 



THERMOMETER. 



Average of 
coldest month. 



36° 



31 

45 



43 
50 
46 
51 
30 



Average of 
warmest montli 



78° 



71 
76 



63 
61 
72 
68 
55 



